{"sid": 0, "id": 133971, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "Easy to install, works as advertised with no problems.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1, "id": 468699, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 23, "len_tokens": 27, "text": "Samsung does not produce a quality product. Motor failed at 4 years and Samsung refused to repair stating warranty is only 1 year.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2, "id": 395146, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 14, "len_tokens": 19, "text": "works fine, had it one month. Made about 15 #'s of ice so far.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3, "id": 260667, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 5, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "Well built easy to install.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4, "id": 525608, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "worked good", "label": 1}
{"sid": 5, "id": 548372, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "works great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 6, "id": 447223, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 12, "text": "Great knowing the temp of my basement. Seems to work well", "label": 1}
{"sid": 7, "id": 261894, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Works fine", "label": 1}
{"sid": 8, "id": 324024, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "There is nothing to like least. It is a great machine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 9, "id": 474552, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "Fit and worked great.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 10, "id": 414151, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "Better performing and longer lasting than OEM.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 11, "id": 441335, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "Perfect and much less expensive as Name brand. Fast Shipping", "label": 1}
{"sid": 12, "id": 172054, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 20, "len_tokens": 27, "text": "Easy to install, less than 30 minutes, fixed unbalanced load problem during spin cycle. it solved our problem, arrived quickly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 13, "id": 12241, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 18, "len_tokens": 20, "text": "Simple replacement. Fits as expected and should perform as good or better than more expensive local sourced product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 14, "id": 71228, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 37, "len_tokens": 43, "text": "This is very flimsy and instead of adjusting out it slides in which doesnt make very much sense. For the cheap price I did make it work however, just be prepared to tape or insulate around it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 15, "id": 338887, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Fit perfectly", "label": 1}
{"sid": 16, "id": 354626, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 20, "len_tokens": 25, "text": "Quite works perfect.  I didn't realize for how long the old motor was degraded until i put in tew one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 17, "id": 130046, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 28, "len_tokens": 33, "text": "I like that it was quick and easy to change.  The water was so clear and delicious. I will recommend this authentic brand to everyone. Great job Samsung.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 18, "id": 266373, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 14, "len_tokens": 21, "text": "Worked great!  I was able to complete the whole repair in about 15-30 minutes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 19, "id": 335380, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 37, "len_tokens": 41, "text": "This item was ordered because of a need but specifically for the great cost associated with repairing the item without breaking the bank. However, the plastic retainer parts broke easily forcing me to use the old parts...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 20, "id": 234184, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 20, "len_tokens": 22, "text": "So glad I found this I had been missing mine for years. Glad to have on back on my light.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 21, "id": 313555, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "It was an exact fit and really easy to install.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 22, "id": 54300, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 23, "len_tokens": 28, "text": "I use this mostly for the price. Great product for your refrigerator. Just make sure you get the right model, MSWF vs others..", "label": 1}
{"sid": 23, "id": 419531, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "Works exactly as expected.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 24, "id": 155571, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 26, "len_tokens": 32, "text": "Perfect replacement for the old control board in my KitchenAid fridge. My ice maker works again! No hassle to install. What else is there to say?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 25, "id": 141778, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "Perfect fit, thanks", "label": 1}
{"sid": 26, "id": 188282, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 28, "len_tokens": 32, "text": "just what the dyi videos said was wrong and fixed it my shelf. works like band new. didn't know I would miss my dishwasher till it quit working", "label": 1}
{"sid": 27, "id": 265976, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 15, "len_tokens": 19, "text": "Excellent replacement switches.  They install in about 5 minutes with little or no real effortz", "label": 1}
{"sid": 28, "id": 241608, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 53, "len_tokens": 68, "text": "Saved $10-$15 as compared with other companies, so that was the first great thing.\nShipped rather quickly, in a few days.\nMy 13 year old son installed it himself - I wasn't even home when he did it! I don't\nknow why I waited so long to order it. It was a snap!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 29, "id": 220327, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 57, "len_tokens": 77, "text": "Fit my washer, which I'd purchased used to replace an old one from the 1970s. I should not have been surprised that the softener dispenser was missing, or that the one from the old Kenmore didn't fit the new one, as the new Kenmores are just like GE, Whirlpool, etc. are now. Fit and locked in place.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 30, "id": 225559, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 38, "len_tokens": 44, "text": "Did not last a month!!!! It appeared to be defective and use from the beginning but I had to give it a try because I needed my washer up and running. It lasted about 15 to 20 washes.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 31, "id": 449014, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 32, "len_tokens": 34, "text": "This is a great item. I did a lot of research before purchasing this and found that this had all of the features I would want in a kitchen thermometer. Great product", "label": 1}
{"sid": 32, "id": 80617, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 61, "len_tokens": 72, "text": "As others have said, this is not an OEM element. It is an aftermarket replacement, meaning it works just the same but is not branded. The first one of these I had lasted 1.5 years; it worked so well I have no problem purchasing another. The OEM versions of these can be quite pricey, so this is a great little fix.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 33, "id": 91270, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "fit my GE perfectly and look super clean and shiny.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 34, "id": 172341, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "THEY OPEN AND CLOSE QUITE WELL.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 35, "id": 25218, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 29, "len_tokens": 37, "text": "This is exactly what I wanted. Sturdy, semi rigid. I did not need 8 feet, fortunately it arrives much shorter and you can expand it up to 8 feet.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 36, "id": 480821, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "excellent product", "label": 1}
{"sid": 37, "id": 511267, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "Received the wrong item!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 38, "id": 125644, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 12, "text": "always good products from this company, just a little pricey though", "label": 1}
{"sid": 39, "id": 351898, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Works great.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 40, "id": 24431, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 25, "len_tokens": 27, "text": "The filter was easy to install with good directions and pictures to aid with the install. The fit was perfect I would recommend this again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 41, "id": 202489, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "perfect item", "label": 1}
{"sid": 42, "id": 332085, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "Worked perfectly for our Whirlpool Duet HT washer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 43, "id": 100462, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 68, "len_tokens": 88, "text": "We were spending way too much on the laundromat, and totally weren't interested in getting a large washer and paying for the electricity for it. This little guy has helped out greatly. It is perfect for doing cloth napkins, undies, socks, shirts etc. Haven't tried jeans in it yet, or heavy towels, but I'm sure it will not be an issue. It honestly couldn't be any more simple.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 44, "id": 38637, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 5, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "Good filter - great pricing", "label": 1}
{"sid": 45, "id": 421006, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 27, "len_tokens": 31, "text": "Perfect fit, just like the OEM... water tastes great and no noticeable difference between the OEM and this one. I will be a return customer for sure.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 46, "id": 190010, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "works great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 47, "id": 195682, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 75, "len_tokens": 87, "text": "I love this little dryer. It handles a good load and fits into my small cottage. I put in onto of a standing air filter because I have trouble bending.  The filter is easy to clean with a toothbrush.  Replacing the felt filter seems hard since no place on the web listed them so I went to the craft store and geot thin felt squares and cut out the circle. Now each new fiter costs.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 48, "id": 65466, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 32, "len_tokens": 37, "text": "Works Great. My dryer vent is about 20 feet long so I bought the extension kit also.  The inside of the vent looked brand new and very clean when I was done.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 49, "id": 74830, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "works very well indoor and outdoor.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 50, "id": 72794, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 28, "len_tokens": 33, "text": "We had trouble with the battery, so we bought a new one. And still didn't work. It was new, right after we opened it when we tried it", "label": 0}
{"sid": 51, "id": 259030, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 12, "len_tokens": 14, "text": "We always buy these filters for our fridge, they work very well!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 52, "id": 536420, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "Its junk, Don't waste your time or money.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 53, "id": 283855, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "The ice doesn't stay frozen it melts and refreezes.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 54, "id": 90151, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 1, "text": "Excellent", "label": 1}
{"sid": 55, "id": 6978, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "wroks great!!!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 56, "id": 207171, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Perfect price", "label": 1}
{"sid": 57, "id": 296004, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 38, "len_tokens": 46, "text": "Delivered in 2 days, fits well on the dish rack of my  Hotpoint dishwasher. Connecting the axle to the wheel takes a little bit of elbow grease, as well as trying to put them on the dish rack.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 58, "id": 319038, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "AWESOME deal on these and perfect fit for my fridge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 59, "id": 120977, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 22, "len_tokens": 24, "text": "fit correctly let me fixx my dryer with out a costly repair tech coming to bother me. they can get so annoying", "label": 1}
{"sid": 60, "id": 475995, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 14, "len_tokens": 14, "text": "thank goodness this is a perfect fit for my machine in my rented property", "label": 1}
{"sid": 61, "id": 281157, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Worked great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 62, "id": 488774, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 63, "len_tokens": 74, "text": "Item arrived fast, was well priced, and brought the humidifier back to life!\n\nNote there is no tab to hang like the original. They actually have a metalized layer on one side to keep it from sagging.\nWorks perfectly.\n\nYou could also just use the plastic tab from the original one and pop it in these if you really wanted it.\n\nGreat buy!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 63, "id": 420232, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 16, "text": "Worked as fit expected. No issues. GE Model GSH22JFTA", "label": 1}
{"sid": 64, "id": 135962, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 19, "len_tokens": 23, "text": "Next to useless. Streaks so badly that you have to use a glass cleaner to do the final wipe.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 65, "id": 11358, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 60, "len_tokens": 72, "text": "It looks great and works great.  I am using this hood in the Non-Ducted mode (you can opt for installing a duct).  The light is nice and bright, it was easy to install and the fan seems to have just the right amount of power for a ductless system.  All in all I am pleased with this range hood.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 66, "id": 136738, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 31, "len_tokens": 36, "text": "I sent the exact model number that was supposed to be used in my Jenair frig .  The filter sent to me doesn't fit though the model sent claimed to fit.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 67, "id": 293360, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "excellent product.  Easy to install.  No problems.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 68, "id": 294891, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 23, "len_tokens": 26, "text": "I purchased the filter for my mom as a replacement for her water dispenser. She said it installed easily, and is working great.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 69, "id": 186622, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 16, "len_tokens": 17, "text": "Had all the pieces needed to get my dryer back up and running for much less.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 70, "id": 403506, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "easy to install and works great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 71, "id": 356131, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 10, "text": "Great product....great price. Shipping very quick.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 72, "id": 247194, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "Exactly what I needed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 73, "id": 135726, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 31, "len_tokens": 38, "text": "Awesome! Took care of my broken stove...and it only took me about 10 minutes, tops. There was plenty of hardware in the package to make it work with almost any configuration.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 74, "id": 315745, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 12, "text": "Works great!  Great tasting water for a lower price!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 75, "id": 164694, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 5, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "Great price and fast shipping.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 76, "id": 365264, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 49, "len_tokens": 64, "text": "Needed to replace the filter in the LG Refrigerator for a \"new to us\" home we purchased recently. I REFUSE to spend $40+ for 1 filter at the big box home stores. This product was perfect and I got more than 1. Worked great! I HIGHLY recommend this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 77, "id": 294177, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 27, "len_tokens": 35, "text": "Did not fit at all, not even close, don't know if someone in China packed the box wrong or what, caused a big mess. Ate that $30.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 78, "id": 532765, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 1, "text": "Good", "label": 1}
{"sid": 79, "id": 147111, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "Expensive for value", "label": 1}
{"sid": 80, "id": 210080, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 20, "len_tokens": 26, "text": "Fit great.  Metal spline should last longer than plastic one in original?  I used blue thread lock also. Great price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 81, "id": 38726, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "Was just what I needed arrived on time", "label": 1}
{"sid": 82, "id": 138038, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 12, "text": "Fits the ref well. wish it was little cheaper.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 83, "id": 326097, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 20, "len_tokens": 24, "text": "It was perfect!  Hope this one does not break but if it does, I know replacing it is very easy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 84, "id": 63055, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "Filter works well and for a reasonable amount of time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 85, "id": 502297, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 16, "len_tokens": 23, "text": "Stuck it in, connected the wire and the burner ignites again.  WHat more could you want?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 86, "id": 545834, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 59, "len_tokens": 79, "text": "Bought these in July of 2017. They lasted until Jan 2018. One completely fell apart, another disintegrated, one is rusted and the last one doesn't spin. These RUINED my dryer. I now have to go buy a new unit. Same your money, hire a professional repair person to come out and fix your unit. This was not worth it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 87, "id": 546544, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 1, "text": "Good", "label": 1}
{"sid": 88, "id": 75432, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "very useful!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 89, "id": 493326, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 12, "len_tokens": 16, "text": "Relatively easy install.  Saved a lot of bucks by doing it myself.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 90, "id": 547512, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 18, "len_tokens": 20, "text": "I have 23 year old Thermador unit and these are listed as the replacement but are to small", "label": 0}
{"sid": 91, "id": 302207, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Nice economical replacement for the expensive factory unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 92, "id": 128792, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 22, "len_tokens": 26, "text": "Terrible. The basket sits on top of the blades which prevents them from spinning. Connections come loose periodically and water leaks out.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 93, "id": 302805, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 75, "len_tokens": 87, "text": "I ordered this instead of the original Samsung refrigerator water filter because it cost much less. I was skeptical but was very pleased when I received it. It installed right away. No drips or leaks.  The taste of the water is very good, even better than with the original filters when new.  I can only vouch for the taste and not the actual filtration, but the test results show that it is just as effective.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 94, "id": 519967, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "Worked perfectly! Dryer is back in action!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 95, "id": 377844, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 17, "len_tokens": 21, "text": "Shipped fast and was super easy to replace! Much better than calling a repairman to come out!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 96, "id": 374334, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "Fast delivery, great! !!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 97, "id": 223060, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 12, "text": "did not look exactly like old one ,but works fine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 98, "id": 511802, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "it working good", "label": 1}
{"sid": 99, "id": 273205, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 10, "text": "Item was delivered on time and accurately..good job", "label": 1}
{"sid": 100, "id": 82608, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 73, "len_tokens": 95, "text": "After much research on trying to find replacement parts for our ice make we found it to be cost effective to replace the entire unit. After a little assembly, this product (Kenmore Ice Maker Icemaker W10122502 & 2198597) fit properly into our Kenmore Elite side-by-side freezer. At more than $70 dollars less than the manufacture selling price this seller's price was well within our budge. Our new ice maker is working properly again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 101, "id": 405593, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 63, "len_tokens": 72, "text": "Be aware that this product has little or no odor absorbing capacity.  I changed the filter of type I've been previously using to this one in February and immediately noticed that the chlorine and sulpher taste in our water was evident.  Two months later the odor was still there so I changed back to the previous filter type I was using....bad taste gone!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 102, "id": 501624, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Works as expected", "label": 1}
{"sid": 103, "id": 235944, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 1, "text": "works", "label": 1}
{"sid": 104, "id": 181828, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 12, "len_tokens": 14, "text": "It was simple to install and it makes ice, all is well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 105, "id": 413406, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "fits my samsung fridge pretty good.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 106, "id": 308126, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 14, "text": "It was exactly what I expected.  I like it very much.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 107, "id": 286275, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 14, "len_tokens": 17, "text": "Worked well, no need to purchase expensive replacement from local hardware or appliance store.,", "label": 1}
{"sid": 108, "id": 29225, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "worked so good", "label": 1}
{"sid": 109, "id": 549948, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 22, "len_tokens": 25, "text": "Had a little trouble installing it but that may have been us not the product. There's got to be a better way!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 110, "id": 327600, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "Cheap and works!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 111, "id": 324722, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 59, "len_tokens": 74, "text": "Perfect replacement for my Whirlpool WCG97US6DS cook top knobs. I had called Whirlpool directly and they were asking $34 for a single knob - here you get 5 for about the same price!\n\nThe sides of the knob are steel - the picture on amazon was a bit confusing to me - looked like plastic - but isn't so.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 112, "id": 510503, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Fit perfect. Quick shipping and great price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 113, "id": 167531, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 26, "len_tokens": 40, "text": "so great, I wasted half a day running around to appliance dealers--said to my self--SELF !! check Amazon==\nperfect, right part, free shipping (prime) 2 day delivery--Great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 114, "id": 194094, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 32, "len_tokens": 34, "text": "This piece is much better constructed than the Amazon recommended one. If I had bought it the first time I would not have had to open up the washing machine three times.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 115, "id": 343299, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "Fits the bill exactly", "label": 1}
{"sid": 116, "id": 203338, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "Fit dryer as advertised", "label": 1}
{"sid": 117, "id": 10004, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 12, "text": "Perfect replacement for my original, and was very easy to install", "label": 1}
{"sid": 118, "id": 367505, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 12, "text": "Fine for 3 years with light use until it died.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 119, "id": 132142, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Need to have it. And it works.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 120, "id": 400676, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Fits well", "label": 1}
{"sid": 121, "id": 258451, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 14, "len_tokens": 21, "text": "Inexpensive alternative to the brand-name for Samsung refrigerators. Works perfectly. No issues at all.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 122, "id": 162215, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "Perfect fit like it was designed for my Fridge...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 123, "id": 30985, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 25, "len_tokens": 34, "text": "Great ice...ez to use. Makes ice quickly....so nice to have fresh ice. Have a nice day\nIt is good to have this with 5 kids.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 124, "id": 68504, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 54, "len_tokens": 67, "text": "Its surprisingly tough. When cutting to length I thought I could readily pierce the outer plastic cover\nbut I was wrong- It resisted my piercing with my wire cutters and required a sharp pointed pair of\nscissor to get through to the wire. Very flexible to boot. It's the best expandable duct I've seen.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 125, "id": 79975, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 5, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "Excellent delivery , product and price", "label": 1}
{"sid": 126, "id": 551029, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "Fits and works perfectly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 127, "id": 510377, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "exact fit replacement for Electrolux air filter", "label": 1}
{"sid": 128, "id": 17911, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 15, "len_tokens": 18, "text": "It makes my stainless Advantium microwave, and stainless stove look like one professionally installed unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 129, "id": 374090, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "just what I needed !!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 130, "id": 71286, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 20, "len_tokens": 23, "text": "Didn't fit.  The dryer vent and wall vent have to be perfectly aligned in order for the produce to work", "label": 0}
{"sid": 131, "id": 372983, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 12, "len_tokens": 17, "text": "Fast delivery. Great Product. Great price.  What more can you ask for.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 132, "id": 123083, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Easy install.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 133, "id": 278360, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 19, "len_tokens": 25, "text": "New dryer drum belt fit exactly as described and at an excellent price.  Shipment was prompt.  Would definitely recommend.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 134, "id": 275802, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 19, "text": "Perfect replacement for Vita-Mix 5000 blender potentiometer.  Easy to install.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 135, "id": 448590, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 67, "len_tokens": 82, "text": "Nice unit. This item solved the humidity mystery in my home as it provides the same accuracy as my humidifier and my thermostat. Turns out the other digital hygrometers in my home were each about 5-8% in error.\n\nIn addition to real-time values being displayed, this unit shows the high and low reading for both the humidity and the indoor temp.\n\nVery nice unit for the price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 136, "id": 422038, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 27, "len_tokens": 30, "text": "This filter works great and didn't cost near as much as the GE filters we have been buying! We are very pleased and will be buying more!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 137, "id": 469159, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "Very nice looking.  Fan is a little louder than advertised.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 138, "id": 486493, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "Goes nice and cold. Well made", "label": 1}
{"sid": 139, "id": 10102, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "works an looks good", "label": 1}
{"sid": 140, "id": 362161, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 14, "text": "Simple to replace. I have these on subscription every 6 months.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 141, "id": 55771, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "Keeps our water and ice clear and taste free!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 142, "id": 24342, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 23, "len_tokens": 27, "text": "It's very easy to install this products. And it only took me very short amount of time to completed install. And good deal.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 143, "id": 327663, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 17, "len_tokens": 19, "text": "This installed just like the YouTube videos said it would, and has worked beautifully for months now.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 144, "id": 457438, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "Worked great.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 145, "id": 205066, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "GOOD JOB", "label": 1}
{"sid": 146, "id": 430872, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 62, "len_tokens": 75, "text": "Bought this after spending most of a day getting the water line thawed. Thought I would never need it as this is only the 2nd time in 10 years it froze. Needed it today (about a week since last time) & thawed the line in less than 5 minutes without taking the dispenser panel off the door!! Best investment I ever made!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 147, "id": 459684, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "Fit great on my whirlpool dishwasher.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 148, "id": 467161, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "Works perfect and fixed our freezer door", "label": 1}
{"sid": 149, "id": 144043, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 18, "len_tokens": 23, "text": "This save the day and much money for a repairman, to be able to fix it myself...Good quality.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 150, "id": 323137, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 17, "len_tokens": 20, "text": "The filtration process is extremely slow.  It takes several minutes to fill a small glass with water.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 151, "id": 173091, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Worked great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 152, "id": 265034, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 51, "len_tokens": 58, "text": "This dishwasher works great! We've had it for a year. Only advice is that the filter down below the drain should be cleaned every time if in order to ensure clean dishes every time.  We have a tiny kitchen and this acts as an island, so we have more work space.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 153, "id": 204207, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "worked as expected", "label": 1}
{"sid": 154, "id": 144069, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 41, "len_tokens": 51, "text": "Will also work as a replacement for a General Electric WE4X448. You'll need to swap over the bracket from your old GE sensor, but the sensor itself is identical and the bracket takes 30 seconds to swap. Saved myself like $30.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 155, "id": 128764, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 66, "len_tokens": 76, "text": "This is the perfect size for an apartment! It fits on my counter top and I can attach it to my sink. It can hold a decent amount of dishes for its size. (It is only one level instead of two like in dishwashers that fit in the wall.) It uses regular dish detergent that can be got easily. I really, really love having this dishwasher.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 156, "id": 423434, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 22, "len_tokens": 27, "text": "This is my second one purchasing from Amazon for my Maytag...works perfectly fine, installs extremely easily for a fraction of the cost!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 157, "id": 316187, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Perfect replacement", "label": 1}
{"sid": 158, "id": 409198, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "It was as advertised and very easy to install", "label": 1}
{"sid": 159, "id": 129467, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "Just what we expected", "label": 1}
{"sid": 160, "id": 523353, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Works as expected", "label": 1}
{"sid": 161, "id": 530203, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 16, "text": "Work perfect.  Install easily.  Glad i didn't call the repair man", "label": 1}
{"sid": 162, "id": 487889, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 75, "len_tokens": 88, "text": "This is an extremely poor quality part by GE, with marginal cost of about $2, being listed at $60. I decided to never buy GE appliances again for that reason, the parts are ridiculously priced and of poor quality. I have an advantium 120 microwave oven and one of the tiny wheels just came off and became impossible to put it back. The design is shoddy and the part itself is of very poor quality.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 163, "id": 34262, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 17, "text": "High quality and look great.  Slightly higher than the 1961 versions.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 164, "id": 422308, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Excelleny", "label": 1}
{"sid": 165, "id": 373709, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Good value", "label": 1}
{"sid": 166, "id": 290605, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 62, "len_tokens": 78, "text": "Remembering first time dryer drum stopped tumbling.  And dealing with getting replacement belt from Sears Repair Center, both cost and miles driven.  So nice to just click and look on front doorstep a few days later.  Kit even had great instruction sheet, showed I hadn't needed to partly disassemble the machine, just hidden away latches that a putty knife opens right up.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 167, "id": 475717, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 19, "len_tokens": 24, "text": "Handle part did not fit the machine even though the part number matched the actual Whirlpool part number...very disappointed.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 168, "id": 123080, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Just as described", "label": 1}
{"sid": 169, "id": 217491, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 75, "len_tokens": 90, "text": "My Samsung refrigerator is a RF266ABRS/XAA model. For some reason, the previous owner of the refrigerator desided to pull the ice maker out. This caused the refrigerator to loose its capabilities to detect temperature in the refrigerator compartment only. It also cause the top bar of the LED on the fridge display to blink. Installed this part and the entire refrigerator worked like a champ. Makes ice, reads temperature in both compartments, and runs correctly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 170, "id": 318530, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 5, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "Perfect fit and quick delivery.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 171, "id": 385908, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 12, "len_tokens": 16, "text": "Shipped super fast. Great product. Makes the cook top look brand new.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 172, "id": 416014, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "exact fit works just as good as original.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 173, "id": 528767, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 20, "len_tokens": 24, "text": "Perfect Fit. Great item. My ice maker had stopped dispensing ice and this replacement blade brought it back to life.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 174, "id": 124004, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 45, "len_tokens": 63, "text": "I love this cooktop!!! True lay-flat design!!! Barely a difference higher than countertop...Heats great! I've had mine for about 2 1/2 years and couldn't be happier... only flaw is it takes a minute for anyone not use to it to get how it works... haha", "label": 1}
{"sid": 175, "id": 246784, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 48, "len_tokens": 57, "text": "This is the first of a couple parts that died on my 10 year old Duet dryer.  It came quickly and my husband was able to replace it himself after watching a YouTube video.  We were back in business that afternoon. My Duet is practically brand new again!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 176, "id": 510510, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 23, "len_tokens": 29, "text": "Well, The first one I ordered lasted 2 months and then broke. Ordering another because it's cheaper than buying a new fridge, however.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 177, "id": 363479, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 29, "len_tokens": 35, "text": "Have a concern/question for LG. In less than 2 months of use the water and ice taste old and stale. Is there a better water filter product than LGs?", "label": 0}
{"sid": 178, "id": 198359, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 14, "len_tokens": 14, "text": "works as it should for much less cost then buying it through the manufacturer", "label": 1}
{"sid": 179, "id": 243010, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Easy install!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 180, "id": 401805, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 17, "text": "Received one not representative of the description.  But it's NON-RETURNABLE.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 181, "id": 527794, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "No need to pay top dollar, this worked perfectly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 182, "id": 29739, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 29, "len_tokens": 38, "text": "The delivery was excellent--faster than promised--and the humidifier is humming along once again. I would recommend this supplier to others, and not hesitate to go to them again myself.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 183, "id": 36449, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "Just what we needed and fit perfect. Fast shipping.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 184, "id": 485595, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 1, "text": "Perfect", "label": 1}
{"sid": 185, "id": 148326, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 58, "len_tokens": 70, "text": "Simple fix - works great.  My dryer started to make a lot of noise and eventually quit spinning.  The clip on the pulley is plastic and broke.  This replacement fit perfectly and it works like new.  No need to pay higher price for brand name.  I watched a video online and was able to replace the part myself.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 186, "id": 69782, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 25, "len_tokens": 30, "text": "compared the prices with big stores like Lowes, home Depot or Ace and they didn't even come close to the price I pad for it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 187, "id": 399313, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 44, "len_tokens": 56, "text": "The filters don't seem to last the 6 months. Had a 3 pack and taste of water declined consistently after 3 months for each one. We are big water drinkers (family of 4) so we may use more than average. But won't buy again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 188, "id": 75173, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "Good quality and easy to read.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 189, "id": 77614, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "great value , cheaper than big box retailers", "label": 1}
{"sid": 190, "id": 395764, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 39, "len_tokens": 42, "text": "This piece of crap just broke after 3 months :( Does anyone know how to get a hold of the company - found the so called company online but not real information.  It makes one cube per cycle :(", "label": 0}
{"sid": 191, "id": 335744, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 12, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "Exactly what I was looking for at a better price then competitors.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 192, "id": 388664, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 26, "len_tokens": 29, "text": "One of the few places I can find these parts. I love that I can order them on Amazon. They are priced right and fit perfect.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 193, "id": 205667, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 5, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "Fit the LG 2050cw perfectly", "label": 1}
{"sid": 194, "id": 532865, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "thank you, works perfectly!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 195, "id": 417434, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Good deal", "label": 1}
{"sid": 196, "id": 375381, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 28, "len_tokens": 31, "text": "Item was delivered quickly and packaged very good. So far fits our LG refrigerator and seems to be working fine. We notice no difference from the OEM filter.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 197, "id": 463253, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Perfect downdraft gets the job done.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 198, "id": 50440, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "Returning. Super cheap looking and feeling.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 199, "id": 383934, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 58, "len_tokens": 68, "text": "Arrived quickly & I was able to fix our washer in less than an hour (at a fraction of what it would have cost to have a repairman come out to fix it)! If you're feeling unsure of your abilities, you can find videos on-line that show you how to replace the part. It's not hard at all!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 200, "id": 175978, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 19, "len_tokens": 24, "text": "Perfect fit, and easy to do it you can work a screwdriver.  Way better than paying the service tech.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 201, "id": 93003, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 42, "len_tokens": 55, "text": "These baskets are so convenient. You can use only one, if you don't have much silver to wash.\nThey have 2 normal and one large compartment in them, to place small items.\nFits in several places in my Whirlpool, wherever it's convenient.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 202, "id": 474729, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "Fit right. good price!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 203, "id": 109163, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 30, "len_tokens": 34, "text": "Needed a replacement element for a Kenmore flat top range. Found one for GE which was compatible. It was easy to install and i am enjoying my fully functional appliance.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 204, "id": 322679, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Works great!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 205, "id": 474505, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "repaired the issue with little of no effort", "label": 1}
{"sid": 206, "id": 248675, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Perfect fix. Easy do it yourself project.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 207, "id": 320150, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 38, "len_tokens": 41, "text": "Not much to say - plug it in, it works. Even on medium setting things are extremely rock solid. Bought this one because it had the most cu sq ft for the money and space it takes up", "label": 1}
{"sid": 208, "id": 199811, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "Yes thanks so much", "label": 1}
{"sid": 209, "id": 329951, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "Love this ice maker!!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 210, "id": 283296, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 38, "len_tokens": 44, "text": "Produces ice and only needs to be filled up once a day or so. I'd give it a five start but unless I tilt it's angle, ice gets stuck on the sensor bespite the tray not being empty.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 211, "id": 80496, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 20, "len_tokens": 24, "text": "Works well easy to install would buy it again! Glad i didn't buy the 69 dollar part from a dealer!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 212, "id": 350705, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 16, "text": "Great OEM filter.  This filter replaced the older style.  No issues.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 213, "id": 164983, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 21, "len_tokens": 29, "text": "works great ..fast delivery fit right in no problems...will use this.compqny again.. i recomened to others for any future parts needed", "label": 1}
{"sid": 214, "id": 158955, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "great works fine", "label": 1}
{"sid": 215, "id": 232189, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 12, "len_tokens": 20, "text": "Exactly what I needed to repair my dryer. Part fits LER5634LQ0 perfectly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 216, "id": 335776, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "Very good item at a good price", "label": 1}
{"sid": 217, "id": 243379, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 38, "len_tokens": 45, "text": "We haven't used it with sand but on hot days, our 2 year old loves to play in the water and can add other toys to it. Our friends' 3 year old loves it too when she visits.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 218, "id": 37952, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 30, "len_tokens": 35, "text": "Glad to have these as back ups. We seem to tear up our splash guards so, it's nice to have these ready to install in the event of an emergency!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 219, "id": 123827, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 15, "len_tokens": 18, "text": "Bought a floor model and a couple of these were missing  Found it on Amazon!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 220, "id": 71203, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 38, "len_tokens": 50, "text": "Arrived quickly and safely from Amazon.  Very easy to install, I used my tin snips to cut one end today allow the unit to adjust and fit.  Saved about 4-5 of space vs the conventional 4 round unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 221, "id": 324613, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 26, "len_tokens": 37, "text": "They were exactly what we needed and came earlier than expected.  Great product.  Just very disappointed that Whirlpool didn't include this with the hood....doesn't make sense.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 222, "id": 174248, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 17, "len_tokens": 23, "text": "Perfect replacement for a foil damaged panel in a Crosley electric range. (Some people don't read instructions!!!)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 223, "id": 371625, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "good filter for a great price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 224, "id": 82353, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 10, "text": "fits perfect and easy to replace the old one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 225, "id": 11512, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 20, "len_tokens": 25, "text": "Best price for a stainless hood i could find.\nHome Depot wanted way more\neasy install\nTennats are happy k", "label": 1}
{"sid": 226, "id": 298132, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 28, "len_tokens": 31, "text": "Just as advertised and at a good price. This is a full size broiler pan so if you have a small oven it probably will be too large.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 227, "id": 67415, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "Filter is slightly smaller than original but still functions properly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 228, "id": 174569, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 15, "len_tokens": 19, "text": "Arrived one week earlier that expected, and was a perfect fit for my Kenmore range.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 229, "id": 180299, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 14, "len_tokens": 17, "text": "Cheap easy fix to my dryer,  try this first before buying a new one!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 230, "id": 309349, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "not as good as the original one. gets dirty very soon.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 231, "id": 540305, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 10, "text": "Fits the bulb on my stupid Bosch oven.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 232, "id": 84536, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 24, "len_tokens": 30, "text": "this was an easy fix. replacement was easy and straight foward and our leaky icemaker now works as new. It is a direct fit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 233, "id": 263107, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 12, "len_tokens": 16, "text": "This replacement part was absolutely necessary.  Stopped the leakage of my washer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 234, "id": 3400, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "They look great on my stove!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 235, "id": 313566, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 18, "len_tokens": 22, "text": "Perfect fit part. Exactly as described. Really nice seller too and super fast shipping! Thank you so much!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 236, "id": 334748, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 18, "len_tokens": 21, "text": "Living in the Arizona desert i want to know how hot my car interior gets...works great good value!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 237, "id": 241841, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 13, "len_tokens": 15, "text": "Package was delivered quickly and took me less than 5 minutes to install.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 238, "id": 226318, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "easy install and fixed the issue", "label": 1}
{"sid": 239, "id": 484217, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 31, "len_tokens": 40, "text": "Dryer stopped heating, so I took a chance that it was the heating element. Was nice to find it here... Came quicky and was easy to install...dryer is running fine now...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 240, "id": 61868, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 10, "text": "Installed in less than 30 minutes and worked great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 241, "id": 463426, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 50, "len_tokens": 64, "text": "Purchased a Whirlpool Gold dryer 5 years ago.  Today the motor is no longer functioning and we'll have to pay a repairman the same price as the purchase price to fix it. (The dryer comes with a one year warranty) Sadly, we will never purchase another whirlpool product ever again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 242, "id": 251905, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "it was a very good deal", "label": 1}
{"sid": 243, "id": 507521, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "Great replacement product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 244, "id": 285071, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 45, "len_tokens": 53, "text": "Used this item to repair my daughter's washing machine (agitator would no longer rotate during wash cycle).  Its not a hard fix, just search for a YouTube video on the problem and follow the instructions.  Price and response time from the seller were reasonable.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 245, "id": 14996, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 5, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "Excellent from the manufacturer condition.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 246, "id": 297873, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 43, "len_tokens": 49, "text": "Fit perfectly and I like the black color. The old was matched the Almond color of the fridge and guests couldn't tell it was a push pad and had to be told. Now it's pretty clear its something to push your glass against.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 247, "id": 192321, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 57, "len_tokens": 70, "text": "We have Samsung RS261, and tried this filter to cut cost of filter replacements, and it simply did not work. Installed and when I pressed dispenser for water, nothing, just noise from electronic inside. I disconnected it after that , and noticed water went inside, but not out of it. If you have Samsung RS261, do not bother...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 248, "id": 557142, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 52, "len_tokens": 62, "text": "Dryer knob totally stripped and, with a family of six, was desperate to get it going again.  A few sites to research compatible replacements found me ordering thru prime to get it quick, although I did find it a couple dollars cheaper elsewhere online.  Popped right it and working great so far.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 249, "id": 103105, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 34, "len_tokens": 36, "text": "I bought th is a a gift for my husband but it was also great for me because it got his beer or of my fridge! He absolutely loves it in his man cave.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 250, "id": 546428, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "works great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 251, "id": 322562, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 12, "text": "It works great will order again in a fews months .", "label": 1}
{"sid": 252, "id": 160736, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "Great product. Fast delivery.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 253, "id": 30343, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "Fit the hole in my sink drain for the disposal.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 254, "id": 41155, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 40, "len_tokens": 43, "text": "From the description and picture we thought they would fit our GE range and they did.  The only I thing I would suggest before choosing is to look closely at your old drip pans and your choices for replacement pans.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 255, "id": 480303, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 13, "len_tokens": 15, "text": "It was easy to install following videos on YouTube. It works as expected.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 256, "id": 56804, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 43, "len_tokens": 53, "text": "This product was much better than anything I could find locally.  Many of what I found hand very weak rods.  This one is stiff enough to be pushed through the entire drier line.  And the shop-vac accessory that comes with it is ingenious.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 257, "id": 396176, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 32, "len_tokens": 37, "text": "Just what I was looking for so that I could end my battle with the rusty old one. Appreciate the inclusion of model numbers etc. Fast shipping, even to here in Hawaii.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 258, "id": 357788, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 10, "text": "Water tastes great, fit perfectly and no leaks!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 259, "id": 332119, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "perfect replacement", "label": 1}
{"sid": 260, "id": 23291, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 22, "len_tokens": 23, "text": "My water dispenser stopped working the next day so now I have to call a repair man to come fix my fridge!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 261, "id": 303382, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 12, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "So amazing that this was half the cost than on Sears direct.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 262, "id": 396100, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 41, "len_tokens": 45, "text": "This was exactly what we needed. We thought we needed a brand new disposal and it turned out we just needed to replace the magnetic stopper. Night and day difference once we switched out the old one with a new one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 263, "id": 331418, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "Perfect fit. Works perfectly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 264, "id": 148479, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 44, "len_tokens": 52, "text": "I have recently started to use the Ionic laundry system and the one thing I've noticed it seems to be very loud when the machine is filling?  I hope that will get better as I'm using it.  Anyway, I am most satisfied with results.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 265, "id": 18409, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "very good", "label": 1}
{"sid": 266, "id": 398343, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 1, "text": "Great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 267, "id": 312346, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 34, "len_tokens": 34, "text": "Works and installs well as long as one realizes that the bottom of the filter goes into the water bath at the base of the machine and not all into the front plastic frame", "label": 1}
{"sid": 268, "id": 24935, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 16, "len_tokens": 18, "text": "This is a good product. It works perfect and Amazon made the delivery just on time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 269, "id": 527994, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Fixed my dryer", "label": 1}
{"sid": 270, "id": 90651, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 17, "len_tokens": 18, "text": "This universal size packs fits for my gas stove\nIt was good and real shiny as expected", "label": 1}
{"sid": 271, "id": 300511, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 14, "len_tokens": 20, "text": "replaced our stinky, moldy hose without a problem! Fit perfectly and replacement was quick.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 272, "id": 205020, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 49, "len_tokens": 54, "text": "This bulb has worked with no problems in my dryer for eight months. It gets pretty heavy usage as we have five daughters. Our dryer gets a LOT of use. Sometimes the girls will leave the dryer open after using it; so the bulb has racked up some hours.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 273, "id": 105249, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 50, "len_tokens": 61, "text": "When we needed a replacement filter for our refrigerator, we immediately turned to AMAZON for the best price.\nOrdered the filter and received it within a few days. It is the exact replacement for our product (BOSCH refrigerator),\nand the price is much lower than offered through other suppliers. THANKS!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 274, "id": 440111, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "Get price.  Get product", "label": 1}
{"sid": 275, "id": 194908, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 14, "len_tokens": 17, "text": "bought it, fixed a awesome fridge I found on the side of the road.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 276, "id": 161252, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 19, "len_tokens": 22, "text": "I ordered the wrong piece.  Will save it in the event I ever break the original and need it!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 277, "id": 423246, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 44, "len_tokens": 57, "text": "I just installed this filter in my Jenn-Air Refrigerator yesterday. Usually, I purchase the PUR filter, but the Waterdrop was a much better price. I've only used it for a little over a day, but so far, I am very pleased. I would recommend.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 278, "id": 324992, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 25, "len_tokens": 31, "text": "Just what I was looking for. Dryer works like a charm again.  Easy and fast install, once you know how to take the machine apart.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 279, "id": 554269, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 59, "len_tokens": 71, "text": "We haven't actually installed this yet, or used it, so I may edit my review. However when we finally pulled it out of the box a few months after ordering it ( it's for a new construction ) there's a big dent on both sides of the hood in the front.  Not makeing a good impression fresh out of the box.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 280, "id": 71317, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "This worked very well and was easy to install", "label": 1}
{"sid": 281, "id": 413412, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "Great product, same results", "label": 1}
{"sid": 282, "id": 420578, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 51, "len_tokens": 63, "text": "Great replacement for original GE RPWF filter costing 4 times this price.  After flushing water through, no leaks, fit perfectly and water tastes fine.  The filter doesn't block as much as the original GE filter but very happy with this for the price.  Will continue to purchase at this price point.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 283, "id": 3552, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 36, "len_tokens": 40, "text": "These are adorable! My only complaint is tht I left them on the burners not in use and the heat from the burner that was in use made a burn mark on one of the covers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 284, "id": 451398, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 16, "len_tokens": 19, "text": "Fit was perfect, unit works very well, I would recommend it to anyone in the market !", "label": 1}
{"sid": 285, "id": 436441, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "great price, works fine", "label": 1}
{"sid": 286, "id": 315597, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Great price, great quality, fast shipping.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 287, "id": 95265, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "really like being able to purchase singles", "label": 1}
{"sid": 288, "id": 501494, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 25, "len_tokens": 31, "text": "This relay/overload has repaired the fridge.  The only issue was that the fridge wiring harness had to be modified to connect to the new relay.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 289, "id": 108486, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 23, "len_tokens": 30, "text": "Hood performs and looks great.  Mine had defective metal filter with broken clamp.  Contacted the manufacturer and they sent a replacement part promptly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 290, "id": 312539, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 5, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "Fast shipping and good product", "label": 1}
{"sid": 291, "id": 91600, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 18, "len_tokens": 25, "text": "These are really quite nice.  Good weight and they fit like a \"Glove\" on my stove.  Thank you", "label": 1}
{"sid": 292, "id": 265257, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 37, "len_tokens": 49, "text": "This dishwasher is just ok. It works, it's nothing special. It seems very cheaply made. It barely dries dishes. I would recommend saving your money and buying a better unit.\nSo, it's basically better than NO dishwasher.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 293, "id": 432287, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 27, "len_tokens": 34, "text": "Great price and very effective filters. I could not ask for more. Fit my Whirlpool refrigerator perfectly, just as advertised. I will be ordering from here again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 294, "id": 475346, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 35, "len_tokens": 41, "text": "I've had this refrigerator for a few years now and the ice maker is it's weak spot.  The entire ice making unit was replaced and it's needed to be repaired two more times since then.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 295, "id": 217113, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "Item exceeded expeditions", "label": 1}
{"sid": 296, "id": 298044, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 23, "len_tokens": 32, "text": "I was delighted with the product.  GE quality and dependability.  I bought this because  broiler pans are no longer provided with new stoves.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 297, "id": 1995, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Excellent idea.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 298, "id": 386753, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 5, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "Fixed my leaking water issues", "label": 1}
{"sid": 299, "id": 392693, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 59, "len_tokens": 74, "text": "Product was previously reviewed  Why is it not showing this?  Product takes 3-4 gallons of water for initial flush to cleanse the carbon taste from the filter.  Water is expensive in my community so we watch its consumption.  Filter works fine after this heavy flush.  It costs half of other filters.  Recommended if water consumption is not an issue.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 300, "id": 93459, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 31, "len_tokens": 37, "text": "I got 3 filtersfor about the price of one at Sears where I got the fridge. They are exactly the same and I am using my 2nd one now-- very happy", "label": 1}
{"sid": 301, "id": 274861, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "looks and works great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 302, "id": 27842, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "As expected.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 303, "id": 464139, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 10, "text": "Different fit than original but works just the same.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 304, "id": 416515, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 40, "len_tokens": 46, "text": "Took a chance and got this one instead of the $50 filter from LG. The water tastes good, its clear and the ice is great also. Definitely will be saving my money from now on and using this one only.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 305, "id": 43713, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 25, "len_tokens": 32, "text": "Came as advertised. For electric stove burners. They all fit. Fast shipping. Wait til stove is cooled off before putting these on LOL! Lesson learned", "label": 1}
{"sid": 306, "id": 438239, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 5, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "Exactly as described.  Works great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 307, "id": 355821, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "Great replacement at a great price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 308, "id": 35322, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 29, "len_tokens": 34, "text": "The quality was great but it was too big for my sink hole. I don't have insinkerator and I thought they were all the same. But they are not", "label": 1}
{"sid": 309, "id": 508139, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 20, "len_tokens": 29, "text": "PERFECT FIT FOR the KENMORE DRYER DOOR, WAS AN easy install too with the help of an instructional youtube video.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 310, "id": 85423, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 34, "len_tokens": 46, "text": "Despite reviews to the contrary, this *is* an exact OEM replacement -- exact same one sold by Electrolux/Frigidaire on their website and the same one that came with my late 2012 freezer and refrigerator.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 311, "id": 167612, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 1, "text": "Great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 312, "id": 429863, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 15, "text": "Worked great and for a cheaper price.  I will purchase again!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 313, "id": 203352, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 20, "len_tokens": 23, "text": "Arrived ahead of time. Perfect fit , I would recommend buying spring tool very hard to install rear spring without it", "label": 1}
{"sid": 314, "id": 116082, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 28, "len_tokens": 34, "text": "This item was a good valu and shipped fast to make our repair's in a timely matter. I'd use this supplier for futhure purchase of this kind again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 315, "id": 95455, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 60, "len_tokens": 75, "text": "I just received this filter. I bought this to replace the filter in my Samsung refrigerator. Description says it can be used to replace Samsung DA29-0003. Well it doesn't. Not only does it not fit, the item arrived unsealed as if it had already been opened. My guess is this item was previously returned.. Waste of money! Do not buy!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 316, "id": 119351, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "filters water great and it tastes great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 317, "id": 309083, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "Works as advertised. For my dryer", "label": 1}
{"sid": 318, "id": 474815, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 32, "len_tokens": 48, "text": "MUST HAVE if replacing  WHIRLPOOL Vent (WP8572611) or if vent starts to leak around edges inside door (in-between outer and inner door panels) - seems thicker/wider and more robust than original seal.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 319, "id": 455331, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 69, "len_tokens": 84, "text": "I got this a few weeks ago.  At first I was very displeased as the water tasted funny.  I had to use a britta to drink my pure water.  Butttt after a couple of weeks the bad taste was gone.  so now I do have clean clean water. I did loose some water pressure but if you saw my unfiltered water you would say it was a good swap.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 320, "id": 198968, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "works and fits", "label": 1}
{"sid": 321, "id": 224195, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 24, "len_tokens": 27, "text": "It works like we needed it to, and is a heck of a lot cheaper than the same thing at Lowes or Home Depot.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 322, "id": 302875, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 5, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "Good value for the money.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 323, "id": 440871, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Great filter for half the price . Works great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 324, "id": 428572, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 18, "len_tokens": 20, "text": "It was damaged when I got it. Dont want to deal with the hassle of shipping it back.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 325, "id": 260981, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 16, "len_tokens": 20, "text": "2 days in my mailbox. Took ten minutes to replace. Everything works for under 5 bucks.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 326, "id": 454998, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "perfect fit for my vintage stove!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 327, "id": 171022, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 33, "len_tokens": 44, "text": "Received the 1st part and it was cracked...without hesitation they sent me another one before I returned the damaged piece!  A+ service to Whirlpool.. Will be happy to do business with them again!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 328, "id": 521175, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 15, "len_tokens": 18, "text": "The ones I received were aluminum. Awesome. Had to trim the width a tiny bit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 329, "id": 560080, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "Item didn't work and didn't want to accept the return.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 330, "id": 270052, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 41, "len_tokens": 52, "text": "I have used this speaker almost every single day since it arrived. I love it! It's great to have in the car, while I'm doing dishes (It's waterproof so it doesn't matter if it gets splashed), and even in the shower.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 331, "id": 345320, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Easy to install and perfect for our fridge!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 332, "id": 289476, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 30, "len_tokens": 38, "text": "So far so good. I'll update in a few days. We'll see how these stand up to the dry Vegas air. My last set lasted about 2 months from Honeywell.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 333, "id": 531334, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 13, "len_tokens": 15, "text": "Took care of the freezing up on the back wall of the freezer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 334, "id": 149465, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 31, "len_tokens": 36, "text": "Worked as stated. Washer started dancing right after laminate flooring was installed. These things really work, as has been over a month since we installed them and washer has not moved.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 335, "id": 288371, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "great price", "label": 1}
{"sid": 336, "id": 399203, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 14, "text": "Fits well. Appears to be effective. The price is right.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 337, "id": 332258, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 18, "len_tokens": 21, "text": "Put a new one of these in the dryer and it lasted only a month. That's some bullcrap", "label": 0}
{"sid": 338, "id": 526584, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 16, "len_tokens": 19, "text": "It fit like it should. It was a little pricey, but still cheaper than other outlets.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 339, "id": 186353, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "exactly what I needed", "label": 1}
{"sid": 340, "id": 222079, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 76, "len_tokens": 97, "text": "Our washing machine (probably about 10-12 years old), started gushing water from underneath when first switched on. I nearly bought a new one, but after some quick googling/YouTube, it appears that this simple water pump was all that was needed! I am not mechanically inclined, but I was able to flip the washer upside down, pop off the hose clamps and backets (connecting it to the motor), and slip this unit on.\n\nWorks like a champ!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 341, "id": 565626, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "Used it in my Bosch refrigerator. Quality as expetected.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 342, "id": 466385, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "Perfect replacement for my Kitchen Aid dishwasher.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 343, "id": 448883, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 67, "len_tokens": 85, "text": "Does a great job.  Just smoked 2 pork butts for making pulled pork. Both came out at 205 & 206 deg.. Didn't time how fast it registered, but it seemed really quick, compared to what I've been using. It has a nice long probe, if it is needed for anything thick. I also like that it has a lifetime warranty.  I would definitely buy this thermometer again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 344, "id": 313651, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 17, "len_tokens": 25, "text": "works great for my old whirlpool dryer. it fits the Whirlpool 279827 Dryer Drive Motor just fine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 345, "id": 382546, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Great price", "label": 1}
{"sid": 346, "id": 518382, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "very good", "label": 1}
{"sid": 347, "id": 541183, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 54, "len_tokens": 61, "text": "It fits a Hardwick Century II by Magic Chef. I have tried many of the universal oven knobs and they all came up short, literally. The shaft is long and a prefect fit for a valve that sits inside the faceplate of your oven. Plenty of room to push in and turn the knob.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 348, "id": 447528, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 38, "len_tokens": 44, "text": "I like this product, shows humidity and temperature of my room quite accurately which was the main reason of purchasing it (Shows temperature in both celsius and fahrenheit scale ).\nA small section showing time  would be great.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 349, "id": 83020, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 12, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "Works perfectly and half the price of any other we could find.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 350, "id": 2628, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 58, "len_tokens": 69, "text": "Like other reviewers, the ideal position for my dryer made it impossible without an extra-length cord. No big box store carried one. One clerk actually looked at me crazy and said they didn't make 'em that long.\n\nThis cord fit the bill. Solid construction. Casing is thick been using it continuously for almost a year with no problems.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 351, "id": 59476, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Great product", "label": 1}
{"sid": 352, "id": 245823, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 51, "len_tokens": 61, "text": "I put this on an Admiral AAV7000 Washer because my pulley broke and i could only purchase the entire motor assembly.  This pulley is slight smaller but fits the shaft and works great on this washer!  Saved me a bundle in having to buy the entire motor or a new washer!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 353, "id": 2393, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 47, "len_tokens": 63, "text": "company should be called defecto, 2nd item i have bought to replace dryer vent, 2nd time item is missing parts not as advertised. description clams 5 ft duct, mine was 3 foot, clamps do not hold anything in place, will never buy from this manufacturer ever again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 354, "id": 434286, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 14, "len_tokens": 16, "text": "Installed them and they work just fine. They seem to be of good quality.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 355, "id": 257176, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 25, "len_tokens": 28, "text": "It works just fine, but I'm not sure what it filters if it does as much as the Samsung OEM one the fridge came with.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 356, "id": 499386, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Nice hose, fit properly, quick delivery.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 357, "id": 552475, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "No complaints, good quality.  Not your typical cheap unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 358, "id": 96536, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "perfect!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 359, "id": 262671, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 18, "len_tokens": 21, "text": "It is as described. Though I found out it was not my bushing broken but the door itself.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 360, "id": 414986, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 15, "len_tokens": 16, "text": "They work fantastic and have found our new replacement over the high priced Samsung filters.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 361, "id": 328002, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 58, "len_tokens": 75, "text": "A convenient deep freezer. It fits lots of food, but stays out of the way....and you can use it as a table. It's quiet and works well. On the normal recommended setting, my fish stayed at about 15-20 degrees before freezing. Speaking of fish, it stores about 100 lbs of vacuumed packed tuna. I highly recommend this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 362, "id": 56361, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 82, "len_tokens": 96, "text": "At first I was skeptical but there is no doubt it works. We were running each load of clothes twice so I decided to purchase this due to such high ratings. Very easy to use with a cordless drill. I am not kidding when I say this thing pulled out a small pillow of lint. It immediately became unclogged or started pushing air out. If you're running each load 2 or 3 times, this will be the best $25 you'll ever spend.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 363, "id": 285661, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 78, "len_tokens": 91, "text": "Outstanding!\nI have one of these mounted forward on an AK, and it is solid, bright, and reliable. A friend referred me to this brand.\nAnother post mentioned there was no difference between some of the brightness settings, but mine works perfectly.\n\nYou can slightly see the LED mounted inside, but it is mounted in that position for a reason and did not interfere with aiming and shooting.\n\nAfter about 100 rounds it has held zero just fine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 364, "id": 153994, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Perfect fit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 365, "id": 321516, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 10, "text": "Solved my problen for a few dollars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 366, "id": 231687, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "This worked perfect and still does.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 367, "id": 514102, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "Nice item, works great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 368, "id": 334688, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Perfect fit, improved design more sturdy than original", "label": 1}
{"sid": 369, "id": 167263, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Thanks.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 370, "id": 89451, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 39, "len_tokens": 45, "text": "I looked and looked and looked for the right thing to replace my oven element, and I finally found it on Amazon.  it was cheaper and came faster then anywhere else I looked.  It works great and fit perfectly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 371, "id": 111434, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 50, "len_tokens": 63, "text": "1. Good range hood; great lighting over stove.\n2. Extraction on 2 lower fan speeds OK but not great.\n3. Not supplied with separate cord for wall plug.  This must be purchased separately.\n4. Delivery in original package but SS had a few minor dents - visible but not critical.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 372, "id": 489066, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 30, "len_tokens": 35, "text": "This cable reached the dryer receptacle.  The wire gauge is a little small for my liking, but then I only run the dryer on medium heat and all is well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 373, "id": 477393, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "Worked great.  Great price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 374, "id": 72086, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 36, "len_tokens": 45, "text": "Since our fridge didn't come with one of these, I bought two.  They work great for wine or 2 litre bottles and uses space that otherwise is often unused, keeping wine in horizontal position.  Love it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 375, "id": 4859, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 31, "len_tokens": 35, "text": "Accurate little device. Helps give visibility to humidity especially in the winter cold and flu months. temperature is accurate as far as it reads the same temp as the furnace thermometer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 376, "id": 398927, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 25, "len_tokens": 31, "text": "Great item, great price! Charges iPhone 6 Plus much faster than the standard wall plug, and charges an iPhone 5 in what seems like minutes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 377, "id": 134978, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 29, "len_tokens": 36, "text": "These r the only filter my refrigerator uses so, I really can rate properly, but I hope that amazon\nkeep selling these filters ( especially 3 packs)\nThanks again amazon.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 378, "id": 266644, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 31, "len_tokens": 37, "text": "Pretty good product. The tabs that lock in seem a bit flimsy, I'm wondering how long they will hold up. I do however prefer this over the other products out there", "label": 1}
{"sid": 379, "id": 243938, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 14, "len_tokens": 20, "text": "My grandson loves NERF guns and needed refills.  These are just what I expected.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 380, "id": 250616, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 43, "len_tokens": 54, "text": "This is what Frigidaire claims will fit my microwave.  It's not the correct part because one of the handles now has two bolts and although my microwave is listed it doesn't fit.\nThe plastic handle design on a \"high\" end microwave is poor!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 381, "id": 451130, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 10, "text": "SEems like I have a new frig!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 382, "id": 487955, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 21, "len_tokens": 24, "text": "Replacement part is identical to original, however no screws were included, had to use the old ones which thankfully I had.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 383, "id": 116026, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 65, "len_tokens": 76, "text": "This was a perfect deal - so inexpensive and it fixed my dad's ongoing issues with his icemaker completely. It took my husband less than half an hour to read the instructions, take out the old one and put in this. It took about 8 to 10 hours to \"reset\" and start making ice, but that was expected as we were advised in the instructions.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 384, "id": 194471, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "good part good price", "label": 1}
{"sid": 385, "id": 229162, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 30, "len_tokens": 34, "text": "The switch installed fine but it only lasted 5 loads worth f laundry cycles. Now I have to buy another one. I will probably go directly to the factory store.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 386, "id": 174929, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 16, "len_tokens": 18, "text": "The appliance repair man cant but this product at this low price! Works like the original!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 387, "id": 145336, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "All these items I purchased are excellent.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 388, "id": 24458, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 21, "len_tokens": 52, "text": "ESTOU MUITO SATISFEITO COM A COMPRA QUE FIZ, O FILTRO É EXCELENTE E O FRIZER FUNCIONOU PERFEITAMENTE VOLTANDO A FAZER GELO.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 389, "id": 360567, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 29, "len_tokens": 38, "text": "Just like the original.  I install it with no issue at all.  Be aware, the Kit comes with a orifice, so don't order it if you buy the Kit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 390, "id": 90033, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 18, "text": "Arrived as expected, undamaged.  Excellent packaging.  Pleased with product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 391, "id": 463528, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 71, "len_tokens": 90, "text": "After reading the reviews on the problem on self cleaning, I called Whirlpool at 800-4221230. All new units have had the problem fixed and there was a recall on the older units. Call for yourself if you don't believe me.\n\nThis is the perfect small oven that fits cookie sheets and large roasting pans. Most 24\" ovens do not have as large of an interior capacity. Well worth the price tag!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 392, "id": 395199, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 25, "len_tokens": 30, "text": "Love, love, love this machine. I just started using it yesterday and we have ice in freezer bags and ice bin. Very easy to use.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 393, "id": 174417, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "thank you, it got here so quick......to cool", "label": 1}
{"sid": 394, "id": 131494, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Works just fine", "label": 1}
{"sid": 395, "id": 79641, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "Just what I needed squeaks and thumping sounds are gone.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 396, "id": 319568, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "It fits perfectly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 397, "id": 441769, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 22, "len_tokens": 24, "text": "Filter installed easily and seems to be working. The true test will be the length of time that it continues to work.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 398, "id": 273548, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 18, "len_tokens": 24, "text": "It was a Christmas present for my son=in=law.  He has used it once and said it worked great!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 399, "id": 483045, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 48, "len_tokens": 65, "text": "I have an older model Thermador, and will NEVER purchase another.  It has always had problems, but I was saved initially by an extended warranty...now they don't have any parts for my model, and they are completely unapologetic about not providing support.  So much for that $10,000!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 400, "id": 367492, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 31, "len_tokens": 39, "text": "Arrived a day ahead of expectation. Install/replacement of older microwave was a simple breeze. Microwave noise is extremely quite. Unit is all that it claims to be. Very pleased with purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 401, "id": 49508, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 28, "len_tokens": 34, "text": "Good blower.  I own a cabinet company and I order these for my customers when we are building a decorative hood.  I have not had any complaints yet.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 402, "id": 515026, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 5, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "Fit my old Kenmore Dryer", "label": 1}
{"sid": 403, "id": 505420, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Good quality", "label": 1}
{"sid": 404, "id": 173223, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "no problems installing part fixed the problem", "label": 1}
{"sid": 405, "id": 399727, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "So far so good.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 406, "id": 75939, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "great thermometer;  works fine", "label": 1}
{"sid": 407, "id": 386008, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "Fit perfectly in my dishwasher.  Much more solid than the original", "label": 1}
{"sid": 408, "id": 400748, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 18, "len_tokens": 24, "text": "It's been a week, can't give a 5 in that shirt if time! So far works very well!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 409, "id": 61551, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 31, "len_tokens": 35, "text": "For an ice maker it does its job very well---I have a Kitchen aid at my lake house and it cannot keep up with this unit---and less than half the cost", "label": 1}
{"sid": 410, "id": 60388, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "It is the right size for the garage.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 411, "id": 398151, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 31, "len_tokens": 35, "text": "Really nice to jazz up the old stove electric burners with these shiny black covers.\nIt's best to get them for looks rather than usable surface area as they would scratch.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 412, "id": 47301, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 30, "len_tokens": 36, "text": "This is a great value...far less expensive than in the stores. My humidifier is over ten years old, so I was thrilled I could still get replacement filters that fit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 413, "id": 419369, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "great price and great ship time for prime members very happy", "label": 1}
{"sid": 414, "id": 294488, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Works good", "label": 1}
{"sid": 415, "id": 213935, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "Easy to use and the directions were great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 416, "id": 99387, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 50, "len_tokens": 61, "text": "The part was exactly as described and was received 2 days before the estimated delivery.  If you made it this far but aren't sure about your ability to install it, have some confidence and go for it.  It took me about 8 minutes to install.  No more hand washing dishes!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 417, "id": 182243, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 18, "len_tokens": 21, "text": "Fit exactly in my cabinet. Measurements exact as publish. Ceramic finishing is excellent and good distribution of heat.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 418, "id": 47139, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 26, "len_tokens": 33, "text": "We are disabled and suffer from arthritis.  However, this scraper is so very easy to use you need to strengh in your hands.  Just love it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 419, "id": 79896, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 1, "text": "great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 420, "id": 88750, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Exact Match", "label": 1}
{"sid": 421, "id": 35341, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "Was SO pleased it fit perfectly", "label": 1}
{"sid": 422, "id": 339519, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 33, "len_tokens": 38, "text": "Perfect fit and easy to install 75% less than from sears parts direct. Only draw back is there are no directions so takes a bit to figure out how it all pieces together.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 423, "id": 433627, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 30, "len_tokens": 33, "text": "These air filters are just like the ones you get at Sears or Lowes but at a much reduced price. They fit exactly into my Sears refrigerator made by LG.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 424, "id": 567480, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 12, "text": "Excellent product had no issues with this item fitting my dryer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 425, "id": 178338, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 19, "len_tokens": 29, "text": "The cap.  It keeps in the Jet-Dry.  Dishes sparkle now.  Way cheaper than the same part from the manufacturer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 426, "id": 39568, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Nutone fits Nutone. Worth the price", "label": 1}
{"sid": 427, "id": 442810, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "Fresh, clean water. Easy to install and exchange.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 428, "id": 486899, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 15, "text": "Worked fine but was a little noisier than the old one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 429, "id": 518815, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "arrived as promised, meets my requirements", "label": 1}
{"sid": 430, "id": 357321, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 10, "text": "product worked for my samsung refirigerator.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 431, "id": 365635, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 65, "len_tokens": 85, "text": "Useless and laughable instructions. I quote:  \"Hairy balls...should be turned inside of a cloth where they cannot get out...\"\nTerrible piece of junk. First time I used it it leaked all over the floor from bottom of unit, so I am returning it. After one big slush of draining water expelled, it refused to drain.  It is not saving me work, it is creating more.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 432, "id": 274141, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 12, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "It is working perfectly without any leaks. I would recommend buying this", "label": 1}
{"sid": 433, "id": 40353, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 12, "text": "looks great, so far after installation works great happy with product", "label": 1}
{"sid": 434, "id": 141090, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 29, "len_tokens": 32, "text": "Washer worked very very very well for several weeks after replacing then motor started having issues so I finally broke down and bought new washer with 5 Year warranty.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 435, "id": 66234, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 19, "len_tokens": 23, "text": "Works good, only thing needs to be tight on your drill.  I used Duck to hold the rods together.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 436, "id": 570525, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Working great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 437, "id": 285707, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 59, "len_tokens": 74, "text": "Does the job intended to do. Mounts easily and secure. I used this with a \"Lions Gear .75 Medium Profile\" riser to raise the sight line up a little off of the weapon. Sights in with adjustments on the side and top.\nI can't really see any red dot till the #4 intensity level, but clearly visible after that.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 438, "id": 344306, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Great product, worked perfect for my fridge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 439, "id": 301502, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 40, "len_tokens": 44, "text": "Fantastic for do it yourself fixes. Saved me so much money on not having to pay for a tech to come out and repair my dryer. Have used this replacement belt for the past 6 months now without any problems.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 440, "id": 336060, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 28, "len_tokens": 36, "text": "Seems to be a good product that filters \"more\" than just scale and larger particals.... and for a lower cost than the old filter purchased at Lowes, etc...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 441, "id": 303089, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 75, "len_tokens": 83, "text": "My spouse put a wet bedspread in the dryer and blew the thermal fuse. Instead of calling a repairman, I watched a YouTube video and diagnosed a thermal fuse replacement. This kit included a new thermostat which was located next to the thermal fuse. I replaced both following a YouTube instructional video and fixed the problem for less than $10. This is the same part I would have a lot more from a supply store", "label": 1}
{"sid": 442, "id": 344872, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Great price", "label": 1}
{"sid": 443, "id": 532344, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Great product I'm off and washing again ", "label": 1}
{"sid": 444, "id": 369798, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 13, "len_tokens": 19, "text": "2 out of 3 filters would not work.  MADE IN CHINA, go figure.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 445, "id": 16129, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "not as good as originals, but do the job.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 446, "id": 43665, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "I love these, very decorative and perfect for summer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 447, "id": 62167, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 45, "len_tokens": 53, "text": "This is a great product for its purpose. A few friends introduced it to me while I bought my first house. It is stylish, quiet and powerful. I am also very satisfied with the service after sale. I woule recommend every house to install one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 448, "id": 334464, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 21, "len_tokens": 26, "text": "Worked great.  GE factory packaged repair part. Recommend watching drive belt installation video on You Tube before attempting to install parts.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 449, "id": 288484, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 38, "len_tokens": 45, "text": "For \"comparable\" it fits the job. It works well, there is a very slight difference in the taste of the water from the name brand filter, but for the difference in price this is a very good buy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 450, "id": 146035, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 13, "len_tokens": 16, "text": "Has been working for several months since installation.  I am a satisfied customer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 451, "id": 478173, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "Worked great!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 452, "id": 24937, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 22, "len_tokens": 28, "text": "It is the second time that I've get this filter, the product is obviously good and delivery also. I'm recommending this sealer...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 453, "id": 289671, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 34, "len_tokens": 46, "text": "I really can't say enough about this little miracle, it doesn't use much water, it's quiet as far as dishwashers go and it works great.  It was very easy to hook up.  Great product!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 454, "id": 11387, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 46, "len_tokens": 64, "text": "Love this hood.  We retrofitted a black Broan that was in our 1990's house.  It fit perfectly, was easy to install and works like you would expect.  Not too loud.  Excellent light output.  Exactly what I expected and way less than the local big box stores.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 455, "id": 216640, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 32, "len_tokens": 39, "text": "For the money great product. We hired a professional to install.\nOnly draw back the metals vibrate on low fan. I have to put a napkin to dampen it between the grooves", "label": 1}
{"sid": 456, "id": 125320, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 20, "len_tokens": 25, "text": "My daughters-in-law told me about how this styling brush works so good. I bought it and can afirm that's true!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 457, "id": 451780, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 63, "len_tokens": 72, "text": "This exaust was to replace one that was ten years old. I installed both and the Broan is thin and very light. It is hard to anchor so that it is stable. The small light that warns you the blower is running worked for five minutes and quit. The extension to the cieling is hard to fit in the slots in the base", "label": 0}
{"sid": 458, "id": 150647, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "It works", "label": 1}
{"sid": 459, "id": 225767, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 10, "text": "Just what I needed to fix my washing machine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 460, "id": 539495, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 20, "len_tokens": 25, "text": ".Well insulated indeed. The slide lid works well and makes a nice tonk sound on the close. Will order another.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 461, "id": 501937, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 37, "len_tokens": 45, "text": "There not much to say about this one.  I took out the old one, put in the new one, and now my fridge works.  It was definitely a cheap fix for what could've been an expensive problem.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 462, "id": 336384, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 12, "len_tokens": 14, "text": "Quick to ship and is exactly as described. Great price as well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 463, "id": 513317, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 15, "len_tokens": 16, "text": "The bearings and seals came installed them back in the business of washing clothes again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 464, "id": 373619, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "Water flavor not improved", "label": 0}
{"sid": 465, "id": 347065, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 10, "text": "works well with my fridge, once a year replacement", "label": 1}
{"sid": 466, "id": 44775, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 25, "len_tokens": 29, "text": "This little ice maker is perfect. Works well and performs Great. Makes ice much faster than my refrigerator ever could. Thanks for a great product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 467, "id": 294910, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 19, "len_tokens": 21, "text": "This less expensive water filter works just as well as the higher priced brand. I will definitely buy again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 468, "id": 83820, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "Works exactly how it was described!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 469, "id": 74905, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 34, "len_tokens": 40, "text": "Excellent product, works great, really enjoy knowing outside and inside porch area temperatures and humidity before I go outside. Arrived on time, no damage and took about ten minutes to read instructions and install.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 470, "id": 500692, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 34, "len_tokens": 41, "text": "Lashes were stuck on paper so tightly that when I tried to release them some of the lashes came apart.  Needless to say they are unwearable and a big waste of money>  Very disappointed!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 471, "id": 205266, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 56, "len_tokens": 64, "text": "Motor works perfectly. The noise is gone. The door frame no longer gets hot. For a few bucks, I prolonged the life on my fridge. Only took a few minutes to do - longest part was figuring out how the shroud comes off to access the old motor. It was very satisfying to get it done.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 472, "id": 293967, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "Very quick delivery. Easy to install.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 473, "id": 448396, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 26, "len_tokens": 28, "text": "It easy to setup and nice. My complaint is it a little small but besides that it good. It really nice it comes with a battery", "label": 1}
{"sid": 474, "id": 463082, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "My oven now closes! Easy to install!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 475, "id": 314450, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 13, "len_tokens": 20, "text": "As advertised fit our kenmore. 240 volt. Saved the 30$ without replacing tin.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 476, "id": 438604, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "The fuse was the wrong part. It didn't fit my dryer", "label": 0}
{"sid": 477, "id": 182251, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "Good quality works great for small kitchen's", "label": 1}
{"sid": 478, "id": 93581, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 37, "len_tokens": 46, "text": "I've used the Water Sentinal brand before in my Samsung refrigerator.  The price I got was even better this time.  The filters were quickly delivered brand new in their original boxes.  I would order from them again!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 479, "id": 258116, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 25, "len_tokens": 30, "text": "product arrived damaged and nedd to return it.. am told i need a code number to return it but haven't received anything in my e-mails.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 480, "id": 451514, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 75, "len_tokens": 82, "text": "I just bought my first house and there was an existing line from under the sink all the way through the cabinets and then it stopped. I still needed about 15 feet to make it to the fridge. On top of that I had to run it around on the baseboards to try and hide it so this was nice and long. I was able to cut off what I didn't need and save it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 481, "id": 514496, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 27, "len_tokens": 37, "text": "Needed for Hoshizaki machines. Don't try to use normal tubing, it won't work and will frustrate you in the process. Get this and save yourself the trouble.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 482, "id": 205127, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 17, "len_tokens": 18, "text": "Was easy to install and fixed the problem we were having with our ice cubes not releasing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 483, "id": 449317, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 44, "len_tokens": 52, "text": "This is perfect no more spills in the cracks, food drops and it's black alittle glossy which I love goes right along my stove and you can't tell it's there, except when you make an accident and think thank goodness you got this! lol.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 484, "id": 179914, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 42, "len_tokens": 44, "text": "it is amazing to actually have all of my appliances match with this product and the quality is also amazing . Easy to apply and it was easy to cut to size, what more could you ask for especially for the price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 485, "id": 558276, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 1, "text": "great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 486, "id": 289025, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 72, "len_tokens": 84, "text": "I bought two of these to monitor the humidity in a couple of my guitar cases. The readings of the two agree within 1 percent and also agree fairly closely with another unit.  They only read temperature in Celsius but I didn't need a thermometer. They come with batteries installed and they were cheap.  What else could coul I ask for.  They also arrived a week earlier than promised (foreign origin).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 487, "id": 535690, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 1, "text": "good", "label": 1}
{"sid": 488, "id": 520911, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 15, "text": "Horrible dress, like a Halloween costume, extremely thin and poorly made.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 489, "id": 109375, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Exact fit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 490, "id": 302543, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "Everything was fine.  Arrived when stated. No problems.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 491, "id": 261068, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 24, "len_tokens": 33, "text": "Great product, good looking, easy to move because its on wheels.\n .Easy to assemble. Had ice cold beer within  hours of receiving the kegerator.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 492, "id": 260162, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 21, "len_tokens": 26, "text": "Great value in filter replacement for refrigerator. Was able to purchase 3 for about the price of 1 Samsung replaement filter", "label": 1}
{"sid": 493, "id": 281966, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 30, "len_tokens": 32, "text": "I bought this to help cool down my 2 tap system that goes thru garage wall out to my bar in my backyard. So far it has performed as intended", "label": 1}
{"sid": 494, "id": 122258, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Fits perfect", "label": 1}
{"sid": 495, "id": 158950, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 20, "len_tokens": 27, "text": "This replacement part was an exact match.  Currently the refrigerator has been running continuously 2 1/2 months now without incident.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 496, "id": 5254, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 14, "len_tokens": 18, "text": "The right price and the right filter for my machine.  Shipped in good time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 497, "id": 163777, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 30, "len_tokens": 32, "text": "The magnetic strength is not enough to hold this on a ceiling vent but I added 4 small magnets to each corner as additional support and it works great now.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 498, "id": 343752, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Work good", "label": 0}
{"sid": 499, "id": 486801, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "Fit and finish matches our Whirlpool Gas Cooktop perfectly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 500, "id": 490645, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 24, "len_tokens": 27, "text": "This part came in right on time and was exactly what I needed.  Assembly was pristine and super easy for an LG electric dryer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 501, "id": 147951, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 22, "len_tokens": 28, "text": "Fits right, works good. This is the new part, so if your old one doesnt look exactly like this one, its Okay.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 502, "id": 73140, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "This thing is awesome...! Best money I ever spent", "label": 1}
{"sid": 503, "id": 324514, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 15, "len_tokens": 17, "text": "Love these over factory filters. Work just as well and a fraction of the price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 504, "id": 28143, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 1, "text": "Good", "label": 1}
{"sid": 505, "id": 170169, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 27, "len_tokens": 35, "text": "Excellent! I received my new ice maker in about 8 hours after ordering! Installed the new one and had ice the next morning, all for $6.00 shipping!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 506, "id": 563636, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 46, "len_tokens": 60, "text": "I bought 2 of these for indoor use. One reads one degree less, and the other one degree higher than actual temperature, compared to satellite triggered temperature reader. Moreover, I set it it up to Feihrenheit and it keeps changing back to centrigarde mode by itaslef.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 507, "id": 390663, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 56, "len_tokens": 64, "text": "These replacement water filters are easy to install and do a very good job of filtering water. Great tasting water and the price is the best that I've found. I bought a \"2\" pack this order because I wanted to see how well they preformed and I'll definitely buy more of these when I need them.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 508, "id": 253509, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 1, "text": "Works", "label": 1}
{"sid": 509, "id": 351893, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 19, "len_tokens": 23, "text": "Very pleased with the seals. Should have gotten these much sooner. No more gunk between the counter and stove.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 510, "id": 496037, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Easy install", "label": 1}
{"sid": 511, "id": 529187, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 5, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "exactilly as described.. worked perfect!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 512, "id": 521973, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "This was just what we needed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 513, "id": 441445, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Just fine", "label": 1}
{"sid": 514, "id": 564591, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 16, "len_tokens": 22, "text": "Fit fine.  Smelled a little odd for the first 20 hours, but then it was okay.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 515, "id": 419697, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 17, "len_tokens": 22, "text": "Great price, great filter, great service,  BUY two a year for both houses\nGreat shipping service too", "label": 1}
{"sid": 516, "id": 129848, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 65, "len_tokens": 72, "text": "We like most every thing about the range hood. Ease of installation was significant for my husband. The fan speeds are ideal and quiet compared to others we investigated. The only draw back is the intensity of the lights. They need to be brighter.  After a few times of cooking we are getting used to them and they are just about sufficient for most things.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 517, "id": 227265, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "works great and a lot cheaper.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 518, "id": 78509, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 38, "len_tokens": 43, "text": "I can't comment on how effective it is, but easy to install and the specs are pretty good. Go online and view yearly water analysis for your water provider to help decide if specs meet your waters contaminents.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 519, "id": 526234, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 10, "text": "Worked fine. Exactly what we had before.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 520, "id": 155470, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "Worked perfectly with my Kenmore 80 series gas dryer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 521, "id": 32425, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 13, "text": "Great product at a very reasonable price. Cleanup is a snap.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 522, "id": 341131, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 13, "len_tokens": 15, "text": "Great replacement for the expensive filters. I will keep a surplus of these.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 523, "id": 383328, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "bad quality.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 524, "id": 205469, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "It works like the org one", "label": 1}
{"sid": 525, "id": 28336, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "Works very well in my apt", "label": 1}
{"sid": 526, "id": 348410, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 50, "len_tokens": 60, "text": "This is a good filter.  It takes a while to get it cleaned but it works really well after that.  I still prefer spring water or reverse osmosis water so we just use this filter for the freezer's ice cube maker.  The discount is really good when you buy two!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 527, "id": 274628, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 24, "len_tokens": 27, "text": "Item arrived fast and in good shape, was easy to install and is working just as good as the outrageously over priced OEM filter.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 528, "id": 565722, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "works well", "label": 1}
{"sid": 529, "id": 514139, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Top Drawer!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 530, "id": 343651, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 13, "len_tokens": 14, "text": "Product is just like the more expensive factory filter at a better price!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 531, "id": 526837, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Fit perfect", "label": 1}
{"sid": 532, "id": 371193, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 35, "len_tokens": 44, "text": "Description states it replaces 4396510 for whirlpool but it does not.  Look carefully at you old filter and then look at the pictures.  I saw a similar review only after I found out hard way.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 533, "id": 151546, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 17, "len_tokens": 21, "text": "It has a flaw.  No leaks but doesn't lay flat around so clothes are more easily trapped.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 534, "id": 331476, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 42, "len_tokens": 45, "text": "Saw a video on YouTube went to a local store and this piece was way more expensive so bought it here in amazon for my washer and its working again yayyy!!! Some months have gone by and still working Thank you Amazon", "label": 1}
{"sid": 535, "id": 249138, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "fixed my dishwasher", "label": 1}
{"sid": 536, "id": 488702, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 12, "text": "It fit in my Trane humidifier with no problem.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 537, "id": 340665, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 28, "len_tokens": 32, "text": "Perfect product. I found a YouTube instructional video somewhere in these reviews for help in installation. Between the product and that video this job couldn't have been easier.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 538, "id": 179787, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 55, "len_tokens": 67, "text": "The stove looks great.  Nicely designed and well made.  Only negative comment is that after a couple of days it had spots of what looked like rust.  They wipe of, but doesn't seem like that should happen with quality stainless steel.  Have tried wiping it with vegetable oil to see if it prevents the spotting.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 539, "id": 159777, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 39, "len_tokens": 47, "text": "The motor works perfectly.  I had a difficult time getting the fan to come off of my old until, because of the plastic screw kept stripping.  I ended up unscrewing it by using the fan blades as a grip.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 540, "id": 150239, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 16, "len_tokens": 19, "text": "Although it didn't fix my problem, it was a direct replacement and easy to swap out.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 541, "id": 428023, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 59, "len_tokens": 64, "text": "These work great! It did take me a minute to figure out how they fit on the stove, but that was my fault for dropping the instructions and not wanting to go back to get them. We have a white stove so I got the white covers. They wipe up very easily and make cleaning up a lot easier.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 542, "id": 60193, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 12, "text": "I am satisfied.  It is working to my expectation.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 543, "id": 319500, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 11, "len_tokens": 15, "text": "I'm happy with these  door bins, fit perfect to my refrigerator...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 544, "id": 47547, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 12, "text": "I love it. My hair is so soft right afterwards.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 545, "id": 530356, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 16, "len_tokens": 18, "text": "Fit perfectly. All that was required was to use the front cover from the old unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 546, "id": 264073, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 14, "len_tokens": 17, "text": "Perfect replacement, no issues installing and worked like a charm for my Kenmore washer !", "label": 1}
{"sid": 547, "id": 283308, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 31, "len_tokens": 43, "text": "It quit working after 2 months of use. I placed the order for this on Dec. 20 2016 and received it on the Dec. 22 2016. It was a Christmas present.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 548, "id": 152343, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 22, "len_tokens": 26, "text": "Was an exact replacement for a failed unit - no issues, worked great. Was easy to replace with just a Phillips screwdriver.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 549, "id": 300713, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "As described.  Thanks!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 550, "id": 420239, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Functions as expected at a very good price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 551, "id": 557103, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "Fits perfect and looks like original", "label": 1}
{"sid": 552, "id": 426910, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 8, "text": "Its exactly as described and fit nicely!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 553, "id": 471255, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 51, "len_tokens": 69, "text": "We bought this piece of junk a little more than a year ago.  And now it  could warm soup. As  the season turns to autum around here, I'm going to have better results keeping my cheese and meat on the porch. Thanks for the $1,100  box of spoilage fridgedaire.  P", "label": 0}
{"sid": 554, "id": 103795, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 77, "len_tokens": 95, "text": "I love the fridge.  After reading reviews about other beverage fridges being loud, I am pleased with how quiet this fridge is.  The fridge is pleasing to the eye and keeps my drinks cold.\n\nThe fridge did arrive damaged.  I'm glad I read all the reviews about receiving damaged fridges.  I opened it up right off the truck and refused delivery.  I think that saved some time because my new fridge arrived within 4 days, no damages.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 555, "id": 243068, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 27, "len_tokens": 32, "text": "Was a straight replacement.  Nothing special to do but reverse the steps I used to remove the old one.  Much cheaper than getting from Sears for example.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 556, "id": 403423, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 42, "len_tokens": 46, "text": "There is no picture but this is the part to fix the broken actuator button on the Samsung refrigerator internal water dispenser.  I am so happy to have mine working again and at half the price of one from the Samsung site.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 557, "id": 274660, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 33, "len_tokens": 38, "text": "The water filter arrived promptly within the time promsed. It appeared to be identical to the much more expensive Kenmore brand filters. It was installed easily and appears to be working just fine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 558, "id": 211312, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 56, "len_tokens": 61, "text": "The first one I got was an out of box failure but the company stood behind it and immediately shipped me a new one and it works so quick and easy.  I did watch you tube several times to be sure I understood what to expect before making this purchase...but feel it was money well spent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 559, "id": 128763, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 39, "len_tokens": 47, "text": "This washer is great. The size takes some getting used to when loading, but it is perfect for the space it's being used in. Just know that you'll still be hand washing your larger pots, pans, and mixing bowls.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 560, "id": 120844, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 9, "len_tokens": 10, "text": "Parts arrived early and we're just what we needed", "label": 1}
{"sid": 561, "id": 401224, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 17, "len_tokens": 21, "text": "First impression : (\nTop part is keep come out when I open it. Water isn't drain completely.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 562, "id": 249540, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 6, "text": "great deal and easy to replace", "label": 1}
{"sid": 563, "id": 132006, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 1, "text": "Great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 564, "id": 400334, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 21, "len_tokens": 24, "text": "They work for our LG fridge.  Be sure to throw out the first gallon of water that passes through the filter.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 565, "id": 378661, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 4, "text": "Just like the originals", "label": 1}
{"sid": 566, "id": 195195, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 2, "text": "Perfect fit", "label": 1}
{"sid": 567, "id": 77472, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 42, "len_tokens": 48, "text": "I had to cut around them, but they are good, when you want to clean them you just rinse them and put them back on. I would recommend them, they are not noticable and they prevent stove from getting stuck on foods.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 568, "id": 17274, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "Perfect for studio kitchen.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 569, "id": 461601, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 21, "len_tokens": 28, "text": "Expensive, but I couldn't find them anywhere else.  They were the right knobs for my range, it matched the rest perfectly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 570, "id": 546822, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 7, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Exactly what we needed, dryer works great!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 571, "id": 10045, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 3, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Works as advertised", "label": 1}
{"sid": 572, "id": 368607, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 34, "len_tokens": 39, "text": "product was delivered promptly and was easy to install. Would be 5 star but I just installed it and don't know how it will perform. Do know it saved me a lot of money.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 573, "id": 250783, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 32, "len_tokens": 35, "text": "I managed to break the knob on my dryer, and I was very relieved that Amazon had them available. This was exactly what I needed and it is doing its job perfectly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 574, "id": 525331, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 18, "len_tokens": 24, "text": "Replaced a grungy filter.  It is exactly the dame as the old one and was easy to replace.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 575, "id": 48526, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 30, "len_tokens": 31, "text": "would recommend this product-like in the high desert and it is very dry right not and use a lot to be able to breathe better and sleep better at night", "label": 1}
{"sid": 576, "id": 4056, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 11, "text": "Everything I wanted plus more!! Exactly what the picture shows", "label": 1}
{"sid": 577, "id": 523470, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 44, "len_tokens": 59, "text": "It works. Fixed the dryer. Awesome! Gave it 4 stars because it is dented. Not like the dryer is seen by company or anything but if I'm paying $200+ for a part the ding dang thing ought not be dented! Wasn't packed very well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 578, "id": 16637, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Works great!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 579, "id": 230371, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 4, "len_tokens": 5, "text": "It is working! Thanks", "label": 1}
{"sid": 580, "id": 278603, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 21, "len_tokens": 22, "text": "it came very quick fit great and is still working now very satisfied thanks cant be with out dryer in winter!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 581, "id": 334187, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 5, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "Perfect fit couldn't be happier.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 582, "id": 190268, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 36, "len_tokens": 48, "text": "Good purchase, decent price, very quick delivery!  Overall, pretty satisfied with this purchase!  It was nice to find it on Amazon as I didn't know where else to purchase this filter for the humidifier.  Very pleased!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 583, "id": 471917, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 10, "len_tokens": 10, "text": "Just what i need to replace my broken door catch", "label": 1}
{"sid": 584, "id": 358846, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 39, "len_tokens": 48, "text": "This filter fits my refrigerator fine, but does not filter the water.  I literally think the carbon block is missing.  I have a well and there is no difference in taste after water passes through this filter.  Deeply disappointed.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 585, "id": 536839, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "Works perfectly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 586, "id": 29265, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 29, "len_tokens": 35, "text": "They fit snuggly in my cabinet. They are secure enough to be used to separate cutting boards and baking sheets. I even have one supporting heavy Pyrex cake pans.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 587, "id": 360640, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 27, "len_tokens": 31, "text": "I needed to replace knobs for my stove and thought this would be great. Disappointed when I received it. The knobs are cheap looking and poorly made.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 588, "id": 1940, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 6, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "Paintable... looks great and functions well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 589, "id": 143583, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 22, "len_tokens": 29, "text": "Worked perfectly....my washer works like a new one!! I would highly recommend this product if you are needing to repair your agitator!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 590, "id": 11560, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 27, "len_tokens": 35, "text": "We purchased this range hood for a apartment.  It has held up and been a reliable product.  Considering the price, a little noise is expected.  Good value!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 591, "id": 213460, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 51, "len_tokens": 60, "text": "Was exactly the part I needed and the washing machine now works.  About 30 minutes to install.  I am experienced working with this washing machine as I have done work on it before.  ( I suspect that I could have done it even faster but I had problems with the door latch.)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 592, "id": 215270, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 1, "len_tokens": 1, "text": "Great", "label": 1}
{"sid": 593, "id": 564041, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 23, "len_tokens": 27, "text": "Worked for a month and a half. Take all these reviews into account before you buy this. They are here for a reason,", "label": 0}
{"sid": 594, "id": 501456, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 2, "len_tokens": 3, "text": "worked great11", "label": 1}
{"sid": 595, "id": 432806, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 5, "len_tokens": 7, "text": "Good product, arrived as stated.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 596, "id": 356799, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 8, "len_tokens": 9, "text": "These seem to be doing a good job!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 597, "id": 442896, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 41, "len_tokens": 46, "text": "We have had the unit for about a week now and it works as promised.  Make several batches of ice right away.  I appreciated the instructions that we emailed to me prior to the unit arriving to set it up properly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 598, "id": 39335, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 23, "len_tokens": 26, "text": "The filter fit the opening very well.\nThe instructions were very easy to understand and it works perfectly.\nThanks for the great experience.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 599, "id": 2400, "interval": [0, 100], "len_words": 66, "len_tokens": 75, "text": "Moved in my new house and realized my connection wasn't going to work. After checking both Lowe's and Home Depot, I found this one on Amazon at a better price. The quality seems very good. If you need to alter the connector on your dryer, this one seems priced the best and the quality is there to feel confident you won't have any issues long term.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 600, "id": 483639, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 148, "len_tokens": 185, "text": "This is the WORST appliance I have ever purchased.  First of all - the burners on the left side are basically unusable.  The back left is so small and tiny that it won't cook anything other than maybe melting butter.  The burner on the front left is so big that even on moderate settings it creates discoloration in the stainless steel (literally after the first time I used it) which was impossible to get off short of using an abrasive powder which I eventually had to do.  ( I decided I'd rather live with scratches than a brown, ugly stovetop).  On an overall perspective, the cooktop is completely arduous and impossible to clean.  And, it really has a cheap and flimsy feel to it versus stable and sturdy which one would expect from a brand and price point such as this.  I highly highly advise against this product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 601, "id": 326474, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 129, "len_tokens": 155, "text": "If the door's a lockin' but the washer isn't a rockin' then this could be exactly what your washer needs. If I hadn't read about it on the Internet then I probably would have missed this simple and inexpensive fix.  All it took was a pair of needle noise pliers, a Phillips screwdriver, and 5-minutes of my time.\n\nOf course there could be other reasons why your washer isn't running the spin cycle so be sure and do some research before spending money on parts.\n\nI ordered on a Thursday and received the part the following Monday so a big Kudos to the seller for fast shipping, and additional kudos for the minimalist packaging. They've been added to my bookmarks should I need more appliance parts in the future.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 602, "id": 248658, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 80, "len_tokens": 103, "text": "I moved into a townhouse where the light in the microwave wasn't working.  The landlord's comment was \"There is supposed to be a light in the microwave?\"\n\nAfter quite a bit of research, I found this guy, had it shipped, installed it, all is good.\n\nBe mindful that this is a halogen bulb, meaning don't touch the bulb itself (if you do, wipe it down really well).\n\nI used this bulb for a Kitchenaid KHMS155LSS - 1 microwave.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 603, "id": 264766, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 129, "text": "We had been using the OEM filters for years, but decided to give this one a try because it was available on Amazon Prime.  Installation was trickier than it should have been due to the interface of filter/refrigerator not being an exact copy of the original.\n\nOnce the water started flowing, the filter would create an air lock condition where air would get in the system and not allow any water to pass.  We'd have to unscrew it and re-install.  Very burdensome.\n\nDo not waste your time on this filter.  Spend a few extra bucks and get the one that was designed for your fridge by the manufacturer.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 604, "id": 547573, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 132, "text": "Saw this on sale and appearing very similar to the OEM unit for my Uline 2015WCB wine cooler at 2X the price. Decided to give it a whirl, and it's been working perfectly for several months now. The frame mount is exact fit. I had to spiral the temp sensor since this replacement is a straight lead - no issues. The temp shaft is shorter, so the dial will adjust temp, but not stay on the shaft. It now stays conveniently in the bottom of the cooler. The #1 temp setting has been consistently maintaining the desired 52 degrees. Easily a worthwhile deal to this budget minded enophile.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 605, "id": 371105, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 90, "len_tokens": 103, "text": "i don't write to many of these reviews but this stove is amazing . we got it three days before thanksgiving and had 22 people for that day and 20 more for christmas  and it has been stunning. the burner btu rating are high and the simmer setting is great.  fit and finish of the stainless is exceptional. i would highly recommend this range. make sure to print out the instructions for LP conversion before your gas guy comes over. it will be very helpful to him (or her).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 606, "id": 72264, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 97, "len_tokens": 117, "text": "We had an older version of this filter for our fridge. It was a little smaller.\n\nOne day, the fridge stopped dispensing water through the water dispenser and the ice tray.\n\nWe thought that the line had frozen and we were worried about water leaking everywhere...except, we couldn't find any leaks.\n\nWe thought the line might be jammed or something.\n\nIt turned out that the filter was just old.\n\nWe bought these filters, installed one, and everything worked like a charm. What a relief!\n\nWater pressure is good with these, and we haven't had any problems since.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 607, "id": 172754, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 103, "len_tokens": 115, "text": "The first one arrived broken due to poor packaging in the factory box.  The weight of the motor cracked the plastic assembly probably during shipment.\n\nThe second one that I received as a replacement for the first the pump motor stopped working after only 3 months.\n\nI do not recommend buying this and will be replacing my dishwasher now with something that is not a Maytag or a Whirlpool rather than spend another $130 on buying a new pump assembly or $100 on a new motor by itself.  Thought this machine would last longer than a year and a half but guess not", "label": 0}
{"sid": 608, "id": 369542, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 77, "len_tokens": 101, "text": "Unfortunate purchase.  After running GALLONS of water, the flow was still slow and sputtering.  I contacted the company and they suggested I run more water through the filter.  Neither one of these worked as they should, so I've let fridge run without a filter for awhile, rather that wrestle with these any further.  I just recently ordered one that was a little more expensive but it WORKS!  The water flow is great with no air! Waterdrop Plus!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 609, "id": 66594, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 163, "len_tokens": 187, "text": "I purchased this unit, along with the extension rods, to clean the dryer vent at my house.  The house is about 5 years old and I was surprised how much lint had accumulated in the dryer vent.  I used this kit from the end of the vent inside the house only, as I do not have easy roof access.  I was surprised how well it worked, I started by carefully inserting the rods and counting/measuring them to see how long the duct was before attaching the brush or the drill.  I then marked the final section of rod with tape so I could slow down when approaching the rain cap from inside the house.  After attaching the brush and shop vac adapter, I followed the instructions carefully (especially the part about setting the drill clutch) and am very happy with the way it worked.  The vent is now clean and shiny inside, my dryer seems to take less time to dry clothes also.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 610, "id": 322699, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 134, "len_tokens": 154, "text": "I used this water filter twice on my Samsung. Before purchase i looked at the website of \"Water Filter Tree\" and it looked very legitimate and had mention of NSF in it. However after looking into this further, and running a search on an NSF website, this company does not appear. I feel scammed now. For those who say this filter \"works\", yes it does, water flows through it. However i doubt any of us analyzed the finished result on a microscopic level. Until this has legitimate certification, or a scientist i trust verifies that my water is cleaner for having run through this filter, I feel that you get what you pay for. Its cheap, how good can it be? I rather not risk it and go with a REAL NSF certified filter.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 611, "id": 542808, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 126, "text": "This cable looks and works like the original. There is a video on YouTube that explains how to replace it. You will need a very small screwdriver. In additional to the screws on the bottom that you can see, there are 4 more under the rubber feet. You can partially peel the feet off to get access to the screws.  The hardest step of the process was to \"thread\" the cable through the hinge area. The cable has a self-adhesive side that is suppose to hold it in place, but this one didn't seem to stick as well as the original. But it seemed to stick well enough.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 612, "id": 428992, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 115, "len_tokens": 145, "text": "5 months in Michigan).I have had issues with the vent freezing over. When this happens, I need to turn it off or unplug it to let it thaw.\n It has only been used one summer - 2017. Yesterday, (05/19/2018) it froze up again after only using it 2 weeks this spring. It also started smelling like burning wires and melted the on/off/heat switch. I had to unplug it to stop it.\nNow the switch doesn't work because it malfunctioned and melted. The cooler no longer turns on after being plugged in. See attached pictures.\nI feel this product is defective since it freezes over and the electrical wiring and plug melted under normal use.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 613, "id": 222307, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 140, "len_tokens": 167, "text": "I've purchased this washing machine in Jun 2016 and stopped working in Sep 2016. I've contacted Amazon. Amazon told me to contact Seller or manufacturer because there was nothing they could do since it was from third party(What a surprise). So I've contacted Seller and Manufacturer. No respond from Seller and Manufacturer. Save your money and time. It was the worst experience I've ever had. Also I've purchased Asurion 2-Year Housewares Protection Plan. They will ask you lots of questions when you call them and tell you that they would get back to you later and No respond until you call them back. I had to answer all the same questions when I called back. I had to spend more than a half hour on the phone and was told to wait another 48 hrs. Save your time !!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 614, "id": 68617, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 105, "len_tokens": 123, "text": "We purchased this unit in 2008 and immediately wished we had not.  Even with an extended warranty, we had continuous problems with leaks, the upper arm not spraying and now with no warranty left, the circuit board has decided to work or not at random. All the lights(control buttons) will go out at once and stay out for a day or maybe a week and then come back on and work fine.\nWe got tired of this and have purchased a Whirlpool in its place.  I would not recommend an Electrolux of any model unless you have a relative that is an appliance repairman!!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 615, "id": 272815, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 98, "len_tokens": 123, "text": "Nice fan for the money. Used for home brewing exhaust to keep my wife happy. Very quiet. Included 6\" expandable duct does not fit common sheet metal couplers and elbows so be prepared if those are part of your hookup. Update 3/3/18: I noticed that in many cases the fan would either shut off or change speeds after operating for 20-30 minutes after condensation builds up on inside of hood. Turns out condensate would accumulate between touchscreen and electronics. I placed a piece of HVAC duct tape above electronics to divert condensate and i works fine so far.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 616, "id": 566749, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 91, "len_tokens": 120, "text": "AVOID THIS JUNK!  These were a complete waste of money and the time to disassemble and install.  They were MORE NOISY, and started to disintegrate within 5 DAYS.  I should have read the reviews--I bought the LG OEM rollers after all and returned this JUNK to Amazon.  The OEM rollers were immediately QUIET.  The difference is qualify is obvious; the OEM roller rubber is like a car tire, whereas these cheap rollers are like a bicycle inner tube.  Shame on Amazon for selling and fulfilling this JUNK to its loyal customers!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 617, "id": 568359, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 123, "len_tokens": 154, "text": "Purchased this unit as a slightly less expensive replacement for a 30 year old U-Line in my boat.  The unit was so noisy we had to return it.  So loud you could not talk, listen to music or read a book in the same room. Or, sleep in the next room.  Otherwise it is a drop in good fit for a U-Line.  Compressor, fan, and condenser all had individual obnoxious noises.  Gave it a star for the all stainless construction, as I might choose this if it was going into a an open air space never occupied unless engines were running to block the noise, or perhaps in an outdoor bar.  Replaced it with a U-Line which is very, very quiet by comparison.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 618, "id": 208040, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 88, "len_tokens": 126, "text": "Thank you. .this saved my fisher paykel washing machine. .was getting a hum  from the pump. .checked the error code. .says there was something stuck in pump. .looked. .nothing in the pump. .replaced in about 10 min. .back to ruining great again. .2nd time I've replaced in 13 years. .but I love my washing machine. .don't mind spending the a little money to fix. .worst part is the mess from the water you have to drain out when you change the pump. .other than that easy fix. .", "label": 1}
{"sid": 619, "id": 532909, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 83, "len_tokens": 101, "text": "Appears to be a genuine part as described.  All the marking are the same as the original.  Easy to install - just unscrew the old one and put the new one in.  The center \"pop up\" on the one I replaced no longer \"popped up\" so the dishes on the top rack weren't being cleaned.  This new wash arm has corrected that problem, and I hope to get a few additional years out of my dishwasher before I have to replace it entirely.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 620, "id": 164994, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 153, "len_tokens": 199, "text": "I bought the first heating element 4/2013 and it went out 6/2013. They said if I sent it back they'd refund me since it was still within the 90 day warranty. I boxed it up, sent it back and ordered a second one. After a couple weeks, I checked in to see how the refund was coming...supposedly, they never got it, so I was screwed out of that money. I bought the second one 6/2013, had my dad install it since I figured maybe I did something wrong the first time...nope, tonight it's gone out again...just passed the 90 warranty. So, now I'm left trying to find someone else that sells this dryer part since I won't be purchasing from this company again. Worked great till it went out. Just buy from Sears, even though it costs five times more than this one. It'll be less of a hassle in the long run.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 621, "id": 130115, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 102, "len_tokens": 125, "text": "Last filter had nicer fit and finish, even the label had more information and on top of all the packaging was atrocious (very brittle plastic, I even cut myself in it) then wizened my self and used scissors just to see chunks shader all over!\nTo whom did they outsource to make this filters for them.\nMy first impressions of this new version of their DA29-00020B cartridge is lack of trust in this product,\nI might as well get an after market and save a lot of money (probably made by same people anyway)\nIf it ain't broke don't fix it SAMSUNG!!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 622, "id": 185258, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 115, "len_tokens": 149, "text": "Very straight forward removal and replacement to install.  Used on Viking VGRT5366BSS:  Viking 6 burner gas range top.  Burners would not ignite even thought the burner sparkers were \"clicking\".  Turn off electricity to the unit at the breaker box.  Then remove a total of 10 screws to access the module.  Simple removal of the range top front bar and front face plate after pulling knobs off and you have access to the module.  I chose to unscrew the module from its mounting plate to make swapping of the spade connectors a little easier.  This is not necessary but I would recommend it to avoid frustration.  Net/Net - this is easy fix for almost any novice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 623, "id": 387953, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 102, "len_tokens": 119, "text": "I am very pleased with the purchase. The only reason I did not give it 5 is that the lint trap keeps coming out and the clothes dry wrinkled and need pressing.\n\nJust a hint on rinsing. What I do is once the clothes are washed/drained,  I leave them there, refill with water add my fabric softener and run through wash cycle again.  Then I place a few items at a time in the spin cycle.\n\nI am in my sixties and it is easy for me to move around or pick up to completely drain any remaining water in the hose.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 624, "id": 333095, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 120, "len_tokens": 145, "text": "So far so good! Had it a couple of days now and the ice looks great! Installation was reasonable with the exception of explaining the leveling bracket. Ours is connected to a Filtrete (3US-PS01) water filter so some adapters had to be bought but everything we needed was there and ready to go if we didn't have that filter. There is an adjustment screw behind the front cover and ours needed tweaking to get the right size of ice. Others complained about not getting ice but ours works just fine, maybe we just have good water pressure?\n09/2016 Update: We've had the ice maker for seven months now and it still works flawlessly. We constantly have an abundance of ice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 625, "id": 226905, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 133, "text": "Easy repair/replacement parts for your washing machine agitator. Watch U-Tube videos for help. My particular model Kenmore washing machine agitator has two parts. The lower part was working fine. The upper part was free wheeling in both directions from the worn out 'dogs'. I didn't realize there was a problem at first. Noticed after loading clothes and filling with water that mechanically it didn't seem to be working correctly. Upper agitator didn't move clothes around during wash cycle. Upper agitator needed to move like bottom part to effectively wash clothes. Heh, our country  needs working agitators now more than ever.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 626, "id": 150206, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 114, "len_tokens": 141, "text": "Following a couple of Youtube videos, I was able to replace the belt and rollers.  In my case, the rollers had worn and the dryer was making a terrible squeaking sound until it warmed up.\n\nThe little tri-rings are a royal pain.  To this day, I cannot figure out how to remove or insert them without snapping one of the sides.  They are brittle as heck.  So my rollers are being held in place by tri-rings that are broken on one side.  They have been holding fine for 4 months, and because they don't have any stress on them under normal conditions, I feel they are safe for the rest of the Whirlpool's life.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 627, "id": 198572, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 116, "len_tokens": 133, "text": "The product was as described and is the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) filtration cartridge for the GE refrigerator. Amazon was able to offer the product at 10-15% less than in-store purchases making it a go-to option for buying several cartridges at a time. There are several other off-brand replacement cartridges that can save you as much as 50% off the GE cartridge but the reviews were mixed. I like to save money but I also want to make sure that the filter is able to remove the chemical and bacterial contaminants from the city water. I would recommend that you spend the money on the GE filter and find alternatives to saving $20 every six months.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 628, "id": 513815, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 158, "len_tokens": 178, "text": "Stunned by the good reviews on here this is an incredibly inefficient product. Sometimes it locks and you can't get your clothes out, the coin trap is near impossible to get out. It also almost never drys on the first cycle and if you accidentally push the wrong button there is no way to change that until the cycle ends, meanwhile your clothes will be locked in unless it is the dry cycle. It's almost as if this thing was designed with the intention for its owners to break it out of frustration while using it. Would not recommend. This product should not sell for more than $450 at most.\n\nHere's an update on the product. It lasted through about a year and a half. After that time the computer inside the machine died. There are few people who can maintenance this particular machine. Repairing the computer would have cost as much to invest in a new appliance.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 629, "id": 296807, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 123, "len_tokens": 143, "text": "So far so good. I`ve done about 15 loads of laundry and it cleans them pretty nicely. I do have a warning for male or females that if you have lace undergarments then avoid putting them in here because they will be destroyed. Also was a lot smaller than expected but it`s whatever. Washer only really holds a couple shirts, leggings, and undies or maybe baby clothes. Also shouldn`t fill it as high as instructions say because it will leak a bit. Saves a lot of detergent so that`s amazing. Spin dryer gets most of the moisture out but all you would have to leave is let them hang dry the rest of the way. Now to see how long the product lasts!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 630, "id": 53806, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 101, "len_tokens": 127, "text": "I haven't had this long enough to judge reliability, but out of the box, this thing is as good as I had hoped. Installation was a breeze, given it's a cooktop - put some included foam bordering around the underside glass, screw in a baffle and some anchors, connect to power, and drop in. Thumb screws lock in some anchors, and it's done.\nHeat is nearly instant (water comes to a boil in 1-2 minutes for me), and the controls are about as simple as they can be. Very easy to clean, and just looks sleek once it's in. Highly recommended.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 631, "id": 306642, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 116, "len_tokens": 127, "text": "This part worked perfectly for our model of Kenmore washer . With a lot of research ,we were able to find this to be the replacement part that we needed . This tasks was a easy fix and the parts were exactly alike and installed with no hassles. I recommend that you double check your cross parts # and we found that it is best to use the manufacture part # as this is the best way finding the right part for any appliances. We used partselect.com to find the parts # and manufacture #  and you can go to repairclinic.com for how to videos . Hope that this helps with your do it yourself repairs.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 632, "id": 427420, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 142, "len_tokens": 161, "text": "I never knew these existed but they are amazing. I despise the crumbs that fall between the stove and counter and the leaks of stuff that dripped. These prevent those issues. I got in matte black because I worried the regular black would be too shiny. I have a black stove and grey counters. They look great. My friend got some after she saw mine and we gifted to my brother in law and his wife as well. They loved ours. Price is great. We have had for about 9 months and they still look brand new. You just wipe down. Super easy to clean. Heat resistant - I constantly put hot lids on them. No issues with fit and by how they have lasted I assume I will never have to replace. I have a standard sized kitchenade glass top stove.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 633, "id": 52513, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 93, "len_tokens": 103, "text": "I purchased this range without knowing that a cooling fan comes on whenever the oven is over 375 degrees. The convection fan is nice and quiet but the electronic component cooling fan is very loud, especially if you have a living space nearby. It is like having your hood fan on the entire time. No mention about this or the noise level in the specifications. Not sure why GE would use such a loud fan.\n\n[...]\n\nThe link above gives you an idea of the level of noise generated by the cooling fan.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 634, "id": 101616, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 132, "len_tokens": 154, "text": "If you want a refrigerator, order one. This is a drink COOLER. It is quite tall so it may sit above the height of most office furniture if you plan to use it as a stand-alone. It is a very good looking unit. The LED lights on the inside don't offer a uniform illumination but do have a pretty blue hue.\n\nThe fridge itself will accommodate anything from sodas to full sized champagne bottles, however, you may want to get some additional organizer racks for soda vending as the unit is set upmore like a standard fridge than a vending machine.\n\nThe unit is quiet, elegant, and efficient. It does not make ice. Again, if you want something that gets your drinks ice-cold you will have to do without the glass front.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 635, "id": 130567, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 88, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "Samsung refrigerator filter is by far one of the best.  I have been using this brand for over a year. I like the quality.  If you don't drink water from the refrigerator or not using the ice from it often,the filter may last longer than 6 months. In my case, our refrigerator is set to have it replaced every 6 months.  I gave 4 stars since it is costly. Overall quality is great, no water dripping, water is fresh and clear. That fits perfect for Samsung REF", "label": 1}
{"sid": 636, "id": 48010, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 145, "len_tokens": 182, "text": "I started buying these at Wal-mart fifteen years ago and haven't found anything that I like as well. They no longer sell them there, so I now buy them in bulk here.\n\nWhy are these better? They're less bulky than scrunchies, for one. They're comfortably flexible so you can get just as many wraps as you need. The padding holds on well, so they'll never shake loose. They don't catch your hair, so you never have the painful experience of having your hair yanked out. They last a very long time and won't break or fall apart on you. I do like the 'autumn' color palate.\n\nWhen they discontinued the line at the store, I tried *many* different styles and brands, looking for a good replacement and nothing worked as well as these. Straight, curly, thick, or thin, I promise you that these will work.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 637, "id": 481157, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 89, "len_tokens": 101, "text": "Picture on Amazon website shows this receptacle is suitable for either copper or aluminum; however, the receptacle I received was for copper wire only. Morris needs to make sure the picture of their product on Amazon matches the one shipped to the customers. The receptacle looked well made so I gave it 4 stars but unfortunately I couldn't use it since my home has aluminum wire for the electric dryer circuit. If your house has copper or copper clad aluminum wire you will have no issues with this receptacle.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 638, "id": 257323, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 93, "len_tokens": 106, "text": "The filter does not perform at all like the original. First, the water flow rate is much greater, suggesting that the filtration is less thorough. Indeed, the flow rate is so great that splashing out of the glass is a real problem. Second, the water comes filled with tiny bubbles to take a minute or two to clear. The original filter put out perfectly clear water.\n\nI have no reason to believe that the unit I got is in any way defective, but I'm going to suck it up and buy an original.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 639, "id": 103929, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 146, "len_tokens": 175, "text": "Design is great for tight spaces, and keeps an open path for the air to exhaust.\n\nI want to give it 5 stars, but I was disappointed that the elbow leaks tiny jets of air at a couple of its seams.  I recommend turning your dryer on, after installing, just to check for such leaks, before you push your dryer back towards the wall.  I ended up purchasing some aluminum tape, specifically designed for heated duct work, and wrapped all of the seams on the vent elbow, as well as where it connected to the longer hose.  This sealed the tiny leaks, and the system works great.\n\nAlso, when you replace this hose, take the opportunity to clean out any venting inside your wall.  Mine was coated with a heavy layer of lint, which I found out was constricting airflow to the outside.  Pretty scary stuff.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 640, "id": 52712, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 111, "len_tokens": 135, "text": "I custom install unit on my boat in lieu of the much more expensive, marine ice maker, I replaced (best idea?, no). Some basic plumbing knowledge would be helpful to hook up unit with a 1/4 tube supplied. I also installed an inline filter as recommended and because it is on a boat. Makes a fair amount of ice although I never weighed it, when I empty the bucket into a cooler (typical use), it regenerates fairly quickly. Good looking, well made and well priced. I live in NJ and will remove the unit during seasonal layups, I wouldn't expect it to withstand winter temperature fluctuations/conditions even though under cover.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 641, "id": 229904, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 86, "len_tokens": 113, "text": "This was an easy replacement in my old Kitchenaid Superba, circa 1995.  The coating on the old icemaker mold was failing, leaving black specs in the ice and causing it to overfill....presumably because some of the ice was no longer releasing properly due to the failing paint thus leaving insufficeint void space for the water to go....except over the top and down the sides.  Very simple job, and 100% fixed the problem.  It took several hours to make the first batch of ice, so be patient.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 642, "id": 75610, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "Simple. It works great. I did have to find a protected place to put the outdoor sensor. My old house had timbers bracing up the roof, and I just put a nail on the protected side. My new place doesn't have that. So I stuck the sensor in a Ziploc freezer bag with a tiny pin-prick hole in it (for humidity), and put it in a window between the glass and the screen, on the north side of the house. The snow and rain can't hurt it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 643, "id": 499717, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 148, "len_tokens": 179, "text": "Why didn't GE supply this propane conversion kit with the dryer like every manufacturer has done for the past 30 years?  Oh, wait, I guess because they realized that they could sell the customer the dryer, and then when the customer (and the salesmen) realize the kit isn't supplied with the dryer, GE can make an additional $45 selling these $2 parts that should have been included with the dryer!\nThe supplied instructions for installing the kit were inadequate.  Quote, \"On models not equipped with an access door, it will be necessary to remove the front to access the burner assembly.\"  No instructions on how to accomplish this!  Hmmm, now where are the hidden screws to remove the front of the dryer?\nDo yourself a favor and stay away from the dryers that require this part.\nOn the plus side, the kit seems to work well when installed.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 644, "id": 280174, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 147, "len_tokens": 165, "text": "This stuff is awesome. I just moved into a new house and I hadn't realized before hand that the dish washer racks were very badly rusted. I noticed cause it was actually falling off and I could see it on the bottom of my dish washer and had to wash all my dishes by hand cause they had little pieces of rust in them. But I sanded down the rust and made quite a few cuts to places that were rusted all the way through..and used Rerack and now it works just fine. I was gonna buy a new dish washer...I was actually just buying this to hold me over for a few weeks until I did buy a new one but after using rerack and seeing how it works now I am gonna hold off on the dish washer until I need it...works just fine now.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 645, "id": 281982, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 81, "len_tokens": 100, "text": "This really fixed my foaming issues.  I would get lots of foam on pours that were any more then 15 mins apart.  I thought that was too much to be a tower cooling issue, but after meticulously balancing my lines and pressure, this was the next step.  I tried building my own but it barely pushed any air, so I decided to just bite the bullet and buy this.  It was rather worth it.  Now my first pour is perfect 24/7.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 646, "id": 305172, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 116, "len_tokens": 140, "text": "It really is that simple to install for your Eloctolux branded dishwasher. In my case it was a Frigidaire. It installs without an hassle on any 2011 or newer model, and on older models you can simply remove a screw from the frame to put the bracket underneath the screw.\n\nI only was forced to find this because my home warranty company (ORHP) refused to cover improper installations. Because of that, they refunded my service fee that was three times the cost of this part and cancelled my contract for a refund, and as an amature I was able to install this ~$20 part in under 15 minutes including finding the tools needed, installation and cleanup.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 647, "id": 163462, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 103, "len_tokens": 126, "text": "Slightly more \"chunky\" than original switch so door does not always get completely closed and sealed from the inertia of gravity alone and sometimes needs to be encouraged to close.  Admittedly, this is on a 21 year old refrigerator and may also be from a four year old not noticing he didn't close it.  Easy enough to change and the price and shipping were right.  Lastly, in the time since the 532 was being sold by Sub-Zero, it could be that the original part has been superceded and that I may be having this minor concern with a replacement switch from ANY source.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 648, "id": 103820, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 90, "len_tokens": 120, "text": "We bought this Bosch (she55m15uc/61) to replace a Bosch we had for 10 years.  Since the review from Consumer Reports was good and the last Bosch was so good I gladly paid $1000.  Worst purchase ever.  The pump went out, then leaked and damaged the floor.  We replaced the pump ($380) and it broke again 3 months later.\n\nI won't buy a Bosch again- this one was a very nice looking, quiet, piece of crap. i just replaced this with a different brand and I hope it is more reliable.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 649, "id": 357989, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 104, "text": "Replaced an LG-branded filter with this one. The water flow is pathetic (less than half the previous filter), and the water coming out of this thing tastes worse than tap. I spent a long time re-installing/slightly turning back from the locked position trying to find something that worked, but no luck. From all the positive reviews it seems like I may have just gotten a defective unit, unfortunately I can't wait and play the filter lottery until I get a good one. Quality Assurance needs some work...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 650, "id": 223454, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 153, "len_tokens": 180, "text": "This Amana range was purchased in 1980, and this is the 2nd replacement igniter with both the original and first replacement lasting about 15 years each.  I probably won't have this range long enough to see this one die, but I expect that it will have a long life also.\n\nWell made igniter, at least as good quality as the original.  Very easy to install and replace so no reason to pay a big repair bill.\n\nOne thing I have noticed -- as each of the previous two igniters reached the point of no return, for at least a couple of years before they croaked it took longer and longer for the oven to light.  I probably should have replaced them earlier; definitely the next time I find a range taking a long time to light I will suspect the igniter is aging and probably should be replaced before it finally burns open.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 651, "id": 120060, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 159, "len_tokens": 184, "text": "For almost two years I just thought my Fridgidaire refrigerator was just slow to make ice and super slow to fill my glass with water.  I do use a lot of ice when I make a drink so I also thought it was just me.  It wasn't until my filter light on the fridge came on that I decided to buy a new filter.  I ordered this filter and a few days later it ended up at my house.  I put it in and I could NOT believe that for the past two years I've been just dealing with a bad filter.  I put the new one in and my water is pouring out very fast and the ice maker is going crazy.  I can't even keep up with the amount of ice it's producing.  So...if anyone out there is having issues with their ice maker and water dispenser, you may just have to buy a new filter.\n\nBrad", "label": 1}
{"sid": 652, "id": 9200, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 116, "text": "When I first got this I was like it looks like a real washing machine and works like one too, what's perfect is that all of my utilities are included so thats what makes this a plus, that and its small size and no washer and dryer hookups in the apt. Hook tup to the sink with a simple twist plug it in and you're good to go.  Wash to your hearts content clothes clothes come out just as good as a real washer.  Thoroughly impressed and for 199, saw other models too pricey, this is well worth it.!!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 653, "id": 72876, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 129, "len_tokens": 150, "text": "I was hesitant to purchase this because of previous reviews, and I don't usually submit reviews, but in this case felt it was important to provide updated information to others.  This product is the same thickness aluminum found in local hardware stores.  And yes, you need to use the special silver tape for HVAC venting to seal the edges, but that's the primary benefit of having a dryer vent product that is adjustable.  This one in particular suited my needs because I needed a discharge pipe at the end of the tube (vice on the side).  This product works as advertised and if you need the inlet and discharge holes as depicted, I recommend purchase of it.  It's working as designed with my brand spanking new dryer.  :-)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 654, "id": 265913, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 128, "len_tokens": 161, "text": "After one week of use, it was already showing build up.  I used the kitchen sprayer to clean it out as instructed.  The inner layer began to come detached, but it cleaned out.  Now, after another week of use, it has disintegrated to the point it was preventing the water tank from shutting off (as it got in the way) so my humidifier leaked all over my bedroom floor and all over the electric cord, endangering me and my kitten since I use a water treatment to prevent build up.  I'll be filing a claim.  Update: contacted seller and they have the nerve to want me to pay to ship it back.  I'll happily ship it back, but shouldn't have to pay.  Offered to send pictures of it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 655, "id": 110686, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 155, "len_tokens": 187, "text": "Well, actually they all are.  I thought I had already reviewed this, but I learned something when troubleshooting a gas oven that wouldn't light.\n\nWhile researching, I found that there are two styles of electric element type oven ignitors. Flat style and round style. If you need a flat style, all flat styles are exactly the same and made at the same plant. Businesses sell them from $90 down to $9. I picked this GE from this seller because of free shipping with another small item I bought.  Before this one was going to ship, I ran to town and got one at the appliance parts store. It was $50 bucks,, but I needed to have the oven up and running for an evening with guests.  When the $18 one arrived from Amazon, all numbers on the GE box matched the box the $50 came in exactly. One cost $50, one cost $18. Same part.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 656, "id": 317149, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 91, "len_tokens": 112, "text": "There is a black uncalibrated knob in the back that is supposed to be used to adjust temperature.  The default setting caused all refrig contents to freeze and here is no way to know temperature.  So I bought a refrigerator and a freezer digital wireless thermometer which also display minimum and maximum temperatures.  After several days of adjusting, the best setting found was a minimum of 29F with a maximum of 40F, all without opening the refrig door. This huge swing is totally unacceptable.  I don't recommend this product to anyone.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 657, "id": 174407, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 120, "len_tokens": 151, "text": "The new panel eliminated all the freezer's misbehavior.  Installation was complicated by the attachment system, and requires more force than one may think.  Removing the old panel required prying it off. I used a putty knife, screwdriver, and, to avoid scratches, painters tape.  That did not work until I applied sufficient force to break the unseen tabs holding the old unit to the freezer.  Breaking the tabs caused concern that the new panel would not be held in place.  I aligned the electronics and pressed in the edges of new panel, but it did not snap in.  I then gave the problem edge a good whack.  It snapped in properly.  I plugged in the freezer, and it started working properly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 658, "id": 296731, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 116, "len_tokens": 131, "text": "The splitter it comes with broke after 2 weeks. You'll have to press really hard to split the water flow and even then they both leak at the same time. This is super disappointing because I use the filter still (who wants to drink fluoridated water?) I hope they offer to replace their parts and make a new design in the future, you can see they use a system that when you pull the tab small little metal balls seal the mount and force water into the hose, which then comes out of the spout of the filter. The problem is, that these metal balls will not hold into place (in my case only two weeks!)", "label": 0}
{"sid": 659, "id": 154866, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 137, "len_tokens": 154, "text": "Our six year old front loading Whirlpool washer occasionally had water pool inside it when the washer was turned off. One time, we had a towel half in the washer and half out. The leaking water soaked the towel and allowed the water to seep out of the open washer door onto the floor. The internet and the user manual pointed the finger at the water inlet valve, so I purchased this valve. Installing it was a breeze. The biggest issue was moving the heavy washer out from the wall to gain access to the back of the machine. With just a screwdriver and a pair of pliers, I removed the old valve and installed the new one. As long as you are careful to remember which wire connects to which connection, the valve will work fine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 660, "id": 177358, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 138, "len_tokens": 169, "text": "The part I received was exactly the same as the old on on my fridge.  Super easy to replace, no leaks.  When replacing the hoses, if you have the same valve as shown it doesn't need any tools to remove the internal hoses (you still need a wrench to disconnect the main supply line though!)  Simply push down on the white looking washer and pull the plastic hoses out.  When you put the hoses back in make sure you push hard enough for them to \"snap\" into place.  Give the hose a good tug to make sure it locked in good.  (hint: swap the hoses one at a time so you don't connect them to the wrong end.)  It took me less than 15 minutes to replace.  (Also recommend cleaning the dust bunnies out while you're in there!)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 661, "id": 362870, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 115, "len_tokens": 139, "text": "What an amazing invention! This beats using a wash board for sure. I can't believe how dirty the clothes are after washing for just 1 minute. Depending how dirty the load is, I sometimes do 2 rinse cycles. So nice to have clothes washed and in the dryer in just about 5-7 minutes. It's a work out as well, which I don't mind! The pic I included was of my sheets, because they are much bigger items, I washed them in the bathtub. I like to think the color gray bled out a little and that isn't all dirt!! :-/ I think you get the point at how well it pulls dirt from the laundry.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 662, "id": 211298, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 146, "len_tokens": 168, "text": "I really love this little washing machine. Make no mistake this is not like using an automatic washer, but it does get your clothes nice and clean with just a little extra effort. My husband and I are downsizing to prepare for retirement & we have moved to a very small home. The Panda is perfect for just the 2 of us. I have even started hanging our clothing outside to dry, a big energy saver. I've given the Panda 4 stars because of 2 drawbacks. First, the lint filter does nothing. I bought a small floating lint catcher & keep my sink drain protected with a mesh screen. Second, it doesn't have wheels. My handy husband built a small cart for my Panda to make it easier to move from storage to my kitchen sink. Not overly expensive, this little machine completely meets our needs.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 663, "id": 4221, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 150, "len_tokens": 183, "text": "I was Extremely Pleased with I received this Product! Very Well Packaged. Arrived in a Timely Manner. I have had my eye on this for quite some time. Also in my Favorite List. I was not too sure about making this purchase but did decide I would take a Chance. Boy, I am So Happy that I did! They look wonderful on my Stove! The Cover's are not too tin or easy to disfigure or anything such as these type of things! They actually Exceeded My Expectations! They look better than the internet picture. I could not be any happier than I am with this product! I would recommend this set of Burner Covers to those who like Apple Decors, Sturdy Burner Covers, Artsy Products, and a Product that is an Asset to add in your kitchen. I Really Love These and I am Very Happy I made this Purchase!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 664, "id": 288813, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 118, "len_tokens": 135, "text": "Two comments:  It takes more than six coats of touch-up paint to cover and build up a paint chip that is about a quarter of an inch in diameter.  This Bisque paint color in this particular touch up paint is just a bit darker (not as white) as the finish on our Kenmore slide-in electric stove.\n\nNeither of these two points were unexpected and an exact finish of sufficient color density to do the job with a couple of coats of touch-up should not be anticipated.  I note that one or two coats of touch-up were enough to cover a very small paint chip on our Kenmore refrigerator and the color difference is no more noticeable than expected.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 665, "id": 127150, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 107, "text": "My Subzero 642 side-by-side fridge freezer stopped making ice, so I checked out replacement icemakers. This one is well made, looks good, and makes perfect ice cubes.\n\nI would rate it a 5 if it came with two styles of shutoff arm so it was not necessary to shorten the steel shutoff arm to fit my Subzero. But not really a big deal, just a simple one-minute job. The extra wire harness plugged right in perfectly although I was left with about eighteen inches of extra cable.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 666, "id": 405106, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 94, "len_tokens": 115, "text": "We just received this a couple of days ago. My husband HAD to open it before I got home.  When I arrived, I had ice! He read the instructions and got after it.  We have only made the small cubes so far.  The size is great but be aware the ice is \"softer\" than ice from the refrigerator icemaker so it may melt faster. I had an open space in my butler's  pantry so it stows away nicely when not in use. I hope it is durable and gives me years of great ice!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 667, "id": 323349, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 90, "len_tokens": 101, "text": "Much much cheaper than the OEM filter for my Kenmore refrigerator which happens to be a re-branded LG model. Honestly I cannot tell the difference in taste and or smell between the two which is a good thing. I left the original filter in for longer than the recommended amount because the OEM filter is priced at a ridiculous 80 dollars or so. Get this, it does the same thing and at a fraction of the price. Also it dramatically increased the water flow after the OEM filter became clogged.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 668, "id": 361198, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 124, "text": "So far it has been working with no problems. Like it states in the description the lowest temp this can be set to is 38 degrees which is about what your refrigerator temp is. Would be nice if it had lock so I can lock it when the grandkids come for a visit\n\nUpdate Sept 2017\nIf the power goes out it resets to the manufacture's setting of 58 degrees instead of the 38 degrees I have it set at. If I am out of town everything in the refrigerator gets warm if the electricity goes out. I have had to throw out some of my drinks due to this.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 669, "id": 522637, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 124, "len_tokens": 155, "text": "I have several DCS components. A 6 burner professional range and a 5 burner cooktop. Both have quality issues. After 5 years of use the cooktop developed a short in the wiring to one of the burner knobs. To get to the simple replacement, the top of the cooktop needs to be removed which entails removing the nuts on top of each burner.  All were seized requiring drilling out the nuts? At $200/burner it was cheaper to. Buy a new cooktop.  No consideration on maintenance.  The range small oven door had poor sealing from the day it was new and a fire hazard.  Otherwise in loved the burners simmer and full heat. Too bad about the maintenance. Now looking to some other manufacturer's product", "label": 0}
{"sid": 670, "id": 509164, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 91, "len_tokens": 106, "text": "I ordered the IEC320 C14 from seller gle2016 and it DID include the fuse. Doing a quick search on Youtube for \" IEC320 C14 \", I was able to watch a video showing exactly how to wire this up so that only the switch illuminates when the power is on. I used a spare PC power cord to supply power to the switch and wired a surge/power strip on the inside. All tests have gone well with this switch. This switch will be going in a arcade box I am building.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 671, "id": 468108, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 78, "len_tokens": 100, "text": "Sheets and duvets tangle into one huge dryer wad / knot within 15m of starting the dryer. Have never experienced such a consistent and difficult issue with dryer tangles with any other machine. Yes there are solutions like tying sheet ends together, stopping cycle to de tangle, adding dryer balls, and making sure it's lightly loaded but  none of these are fool proof with this machine. it's incredibly high maintenance, frustrating, and the entire dry cycle requires babysitting.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 672, "id": 313341, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 110, "text": "Watch out the the thermostat melted the wiring to the heating element this part is dangerous and will melt wiring at 220 volts ac at power input point my red wires fused together luckily they didn't short out. I am sorry but parts do not look like what the picture shows.  It seems the company who provides them doesn't know the part is wrong in package, the thermostat is not shutting off the element fast enough or is letting it stay on too long. Amazon please take these off your site they are dangerous and i am a professional handyman.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 673, "id": 11525, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 135, "text": "I give this four stars simply because I'm not sure I could \"love\" a range hood.\nHaving said that, a couple of things to note.\n-This was replacing a 12 year old NuTone non-venting range hood\n-Delivery was fast, had it next day via prime!\n-Was packaged well.\n-Installation instructions were included and easy to follow.\n-I'm not that handy, even so, this was easy to install. 20 minutes tops, and that included removing the old NuTone.\n-There is NO buld included.\n-The fan is not loud\n\nOverall, very pleased with this, easy to install and stainless looks great!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 674, "id": 401113, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 135, "len_tokens": 160, "text": "Fit and function is comparable to OEM supplied filter. Keeping in mind that none of these filters are designed to do anything other than remove odors and taste; If your water isn't safe to drink, a refrigerator filter isn't going to change that. It does not have the certs that are included on the OEM, but I'm sure construction and materials are very similar. If they're building the same thing, I don't need them to pay for the endorsement and charge me for them. I can just expect that it will perform nearly the same. Quoting the movie Tommy Boy, If you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will... [...]\n\nBottom line: Fit is fine, flow is similar, taste is clean. Great product, made in the USA!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 675, "id": 560136, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 85, "len_tokens": 104, "text": "This board fixed our problems right away, before getting this we had replaced the switches 3 times, then repacked the whole light assembly.  It was fairly easy to do, the hardest part was unplugging the electric connections, some were easy and some were hard to pull out. I was amazed that we didn't have to reset the Control Pad, temps, etc. this LG Fridg is 10 years old. Also there is a very good video on UTube to explain and see how to do it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 676, "id": 316657, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 82, "len_tokens": 101, "text": "arrived on time, and its perfect, no flaws.... if anyone says they have dents LOOK AT HOW THE UPS DRIVER HANDLES THEM\nI watched mine and told him to NOT ROLL OR THROW IT because thats excatly what he was doing!!!! and since i was able to be here upon delivery it was in perfect condition !!! SO AGAIN I say don't say bad things about dents until you see how your driver handles the product\nI LOVE MINE AND WOULD RECOMEND IT", "label": 1}
{"sid": 677, "id": 53240, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 86, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "One star off for not being made in USA, as the ad stated.\nPerfect fit.\nDead dryer fixed ! Way easier than I expected. Very informative videos on youtube explain the process. Literally, cleaning the inside of the dryer took the most time. All done in one hour !\nBest value compared to buying parts individually. While you are inside, replace all these wear items.\nAlso, clean everything !\nI recommend some axle grease on the roller sleeves, and some silicone spray on the drum gasket felt. Good luck !", "label": 1}
{"sid": 678, "id": 155630, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 96, "len_tokens": 106, "text": "I ordered this pulley from Amazon because the same item was more than twice the price from Sears online. My washer was throwing the belt off the original pulley so I figured that possibly it was worn out. First it fit perfectly. Also, you couldn't tell the original from the new one as far as looks so that made me feel like it was as good as the first. The washer is working like brand new and actually makes less noise when in the spin cycle. I will definitely order more in the future from Amazon.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 679, "id": 164962, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 141, "len_tokens": 169, "text": "Had the dishwasher for 6 weeks and both my wife and I hate it. One star for quiet. Racks are very inconvenient, holds only about  half to two thirds of my 17 year old Whirlpool. Some dishes come out wet. Flatware tray drips water when you take it out. Gives off foul odor that the service person told me is normal but goes away when you turn it on. Difficult to program. I was warned about the drying problems before my purchase but thought they were overblown so it was my mistake. If you are used to a conventional dishwasher, you may not be happy with this model.\nFortunately, my dealer took it back today for full refund. Getting a higher grade Whirlpool for the price of a dozen roses I bought her for her kindness. Will rate the new one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 680, "id": 456564, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 94, "len_tokens": 119, "text": "This is a great washer.  And after running from a Maytag Neptune HE TL, I can really appreciate a great washer!  I've had it for just over 7 months now.\n\nThis washer is really quite during wash and rinse cycles.  The spin cycle can get pretty intense, but it sure does a beautiful job of throughly and gently washing clothes.  And if you are into conservation (going green), this is the washer for you.  It uses minimal detergent and water.\n\nI would highly recommend this washer.  Bosch dishwashers are hard to beat as well!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 681, "id": 179724, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 89, "len_tokens": 115, "text": "I have had my frige for about 10 years and the ice maker was allways problumadic never worked right had someone out rigthaway they said the water was not comming in to the icemaker fastenought lived with it for  10years this  ice maker was the OE it stopped working about 3 weeks ago THANKYOU I got this one to replace myself becauce no more warinty it works better then the OE icemaker .Im SO SO HAPPY with this product and very EZ to inshall  WHAT A DEAL Thanks Scott", "label": 1}
{"sid": 682, "id": 54568, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 104, "len_tokens": 122, "text": "We bought our GE fridge this year and had to replace the water filter and chose the recommended GE MSWF filter. It works well and Amazon appeared to have a really good price for the replacement, well under MSRP. Others have made comments on the water taste, and I don't know if it's just because we have soft water in Seattle, but I haven't noticed any artifacts, flow issues, or taste differences.  Seems just work for us.  It's great to have this in this built into fridge and we no longer need to fill up and store pitchers of filtered water in the fridge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 683, "id": 66898, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 105, "len_tokens": 117, "text": "Seller did not communicate that they received my order or that it had been shipped; however, it did arrive on the very last day of the delivery time window, which in my experience is not common. Usually, I receive my merchandise several days before the last day, but the package arrived in good shape.\n\nThe product itself worked well and did what the manufacturer claimed it would do. It was also easy to use. We had much more lint in our dryer vent system than I could have imagined.....now we only have to run our dryer once versus twice to get our clothes completely dry.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 684, "id": 466081, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 139, "len_tokens": 163, "text": "Bought these to use as a base to my new HE Maytag washer, which sits underneath my new LE dryer. Read numerous reviews of people having issues with their washers \"walking\" around, and after witnessing the spin cycles I didn't want these heavy units taking a trip into my walls.\n\nBuilt a custom wood stacking platform to sandwich between them, purchasing a different set of rubber feet for the base of the dryer, then sinched the whole thing together with a heavy duty ratchet strap. These feet work awesome! Even during the startup to the ludicrous speed spin cycle, the units wobble ever so much, but the stack has stayed stuck to where it was since day one.\n\nGlad for all the good reviews on this, these rubber feet fit my washer perfectly, and do the job as intended.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 685, "id": 111892, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 115, "len_tokens": 139, "text": "Pretty cool little USB fridge. Got it at a white-elephant party in a gift exchange and have been using it for about a year and a month, or so.\n\nIf you plan to buy this, just know this. It is NOT designed to refrigerate in the means of bring something that is lukewarm to a cool temperature, but rather to keep something cool that has already been chilled. For instance, take a lukewarm soda and throw it in here: it's gonna be crappy. But, if you take a cold soda and you leave it in here, it will keep it cold much, much longer than if you sat it out on your desk. Great gift!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 686, "id": 147129, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 129, "len_tokens": 166, "text": "Perfect match for my Kenmore he2t frontloader. Noticed a week or so again the bleach and fabric softner weren't dispensing...a few loads didn't feel wet like they should have when done..thought I was losing it. Then one day the cold water would run or shall I say trickle for 5 mins then gave me the f20 error. Researched it and checked my water pressure coming out of the hose in a bucket which was good- checked the continuity of the water inlet valve- it was good- cleaned the screens- blew in the pressure switch hose to clear anything- nothing- it still didn't work so I figured it had to be the mechanism within the valve-  yep- that's what it was-  done- saved my 13 yr old washing machine... easy!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 687, "id": 513660, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 89, "len_tokens": 103, "text": "I originally replaced a water pump due to the propeller broke by the shredded glass. Dishwasher kind of started to work again but frequently water was left over after the cycle. The check valve in the original hose-drain looked like it worked correctly. What could go wrong with a peice3 of plastic rubber used for a flap? However,m that was it! I learned that after replacing the water pump again, Made Kenmore my dishwasher work again like new without paying an arm and leg to have it serviced.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 688, "id": 193379, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 132, "text": "I really really love this thing, which is not something I expected to say about a potty.  But, it fits in our small diaper bag and we can take it anywhere and not be rushing to find a bathroom for our 2 year old.  She has had no problems sitting on it, it's very sturdy.  We don't use th plastic bags, we just use it like a regular potty and dump it out and wipe it.  We haven't even had to use the twisting feature yet as she had no issues with using it on the lowest height.  It has been worth every penny and I'd recommend it to anyone.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 689, "id": 173866, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 113, "len_tokens": 128, "text": "Have a Cabrio washing machine and it kept stopping every few seconds, just beep and stop.  A bit of research led me to believe this was the culprit so I ordered this to save myself a fortune as the part itself was so expensive anyway.  It fixed the problem as the washer no longer stops like that at all and in addition, the repairs itself was super easy and took me less than 15 minutes from start to finish (first time working on any washing machine).  I did a web search and found a video on youtube that showed exactly how to do it, very very easy and saved me 200-300 dollars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 690, "id": 525667, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 134, "len_tokens": 151, "text": "The control panel works great which is the expected outcome anyways. But this review is to help others diagnose and fix their dishwashers vs having to go through sears service which is very expensive.\n\nThe issue started with the smart wash button not working and over a period of months expanded to other buttons. After about 3 months the only function working on my dishwasher was normal wash. Eventually all the buttons on the control panel stopped responding and the control panel went completely dark. None of the lights would come on, including start or cancel. Replacing the control panel did the trick, the dishwasher now works like new.\n\nIt is a quick 20 min job to replace the panel assuming you have DIY skills and an understanding of how electricity and cabling works.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 691, "id": 322329, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 106, "len_tokens": 125, "text": "Love this fridge! It is the best fridge we have ever owned in 26 years of marriage. I love all the features, but especially the outside door opening to the extra space so you don't have to open both doors to get those items you use most frequently. Love that middle drawer for the same reason. IT's huge! I still haven't filled it up even after going on my big grocery run. I love the diversity of features, and it keeps our produce fresher and llasts longer. The fridge is colder than our last but doesn't have frozen spots like my old one. would totally recommend!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 692, "id": 298480, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 86, "len_tokens": 102, "text": "Fixed my Amana fridge in about 15 minutes! The refrigerator was struggling to get cold, and it was because the compressor wouldn't come on and stay on. Would hear a relay click every 3-5 minutes. After replacing the old start relay with a new one (this part) everything fired up as soon as I plugged in the fridge and the issue was resolved. I did not have to replace the capacitor. My wife is happy, and our food is as cold as its supposed to be.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 693, "id": 340091, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 135, "len_tokens": 167, "text": "This is the best option for anyone looking to replace the flawed parts (in my dishwasher listed as parts W10350375 or W10350376) on the upper rack of Whirlpool manufactured dishwashers (includes Kitchenaid, Maytag, and some Kennmore brands I think).  This part is stainless steel with heavy nylon locks holding the wheels in place, it shouldn't break like the inferior parts that come with the dishwasher.  There is a great video on youtube showing in detail how to remove the old part and install the new one.  It took me maybe half an hour.  My kit came with a Philips to torx adapter, although I had the correct bit in my toolbox and that was easier to use.  Overall the part works well and should hold up much longer than the poorly made original design.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 694, "id": 267415, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 117, "len_tokens": 138, "text": "I never make the time to leave reviews, but I feel I must leave one here. The pump arrived within one day with Amazon Prime.  I installed it myself (a non-tradesperson) the next day and we were back in business. The factory part was over $100 from their authorized part supplier, but this looked exactly the same. I did have to make one minor adjustment to my 11 year old Kenmore washer, and that was that the small tab on the electrical connection was on the wrong side at the top. I clipped it off my washer connection and it worked perfectly. Since then I've done maybe 10 loads of laundry and all have emptied as intended.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 695, "id": 219310, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 96, "len_tokens": 110, "text": "This wine cooler far exceeded my expectations because it's so quiet and got to the desired temp very rapidly. We are full time RVers so needed something small that would fit into a corner and run quietly. It's so silent I often check the digital readout temperature to make sure it's working. I noticed the temp is a few degrees colder than what I believe I set it for but have not closely reviewed the mfg instructions or taken the time to troubleshoot because so far it's close enough. I couldn't be happier with this purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 696, "id": 152678, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 139, "len_tokens": 166, "text": "This OEM Whirlpool repair kit fit my dryer perfectly and has returned it to full function.  I saved a bundle doing it myself versus placing a service call, let alone what a whole new dryer would've cost!  On my machine, the idler pulley had seized and eventually the friction of the belt sliding over the pulley caused it to break (but not before the belt wore a deep groove in the pulley!).  If you're comfortable with basic hand tools, you should be able to handle this repair, especially if you review some of the how-to videos on YouTube.  The most tedious part of the job for me was removing the old triangle clips that hold on the pulley and rollers; the clips on my machine had lost their pliability, yet they weren't brittle enough to break them easily.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 697, "id": 22873, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 89, "len_tokens": 104, "text": "This isn't a review against the seller, but rather the part. It came on time and as described.\n\nThis fits a fridge that was already in place in a house I just bought. The water through the door was running really slow so I figured I'd replace the filter and see if it helped. It didn't. It actually got slower. I don't care how good of a filtration process GE thinks they have, it isn't worth standing at the fridge for 10 minutes waiting for a glass to fill.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 698, "id": 193900, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 158, "len_tokens": 190, "text": "If you're reading this, you have a top load washer that uses this sensor/switch.  Symptoms of problems where this switch is the culprit include:\n1 - Washer starts agitating and filling the moment you turn it on (should fill first, then agitate)\n2 - Washer does not start when you pull the timer switch\nYou might be able to get the washer working by blowing compressed air into the sensor port (where the plastic tube attaches) on this switch.  That has worked twice for me after encountering the 2 above problems.  I'm replacing the sensor/switch to hopefully eliminate the problems.\nBe careful when removing the switch from the control panel (check youtube for some videos, search using the part #).  It has a positioning tab and if you just twist the switch body, you might break it off (which I did).  Release the tab from its catch, then twist the body to remove from the panel.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 699, "id": 28344, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 94, "len_tokens": 109, "text": "In cold weather you spend a lot of money heating and humidifying the air in your house so why would you take the warm, moist air from the dryer and pump it outside?  Add some water to this unit and it'll catch all of the lint from the dryer's exhaust and it'll fill your house with warm air that smells like fresh laundry.  Honestly I was skeptical of the lint-catching but there's no extra dust (aka: lint) in our laundry room since we started using this so we give it eight enthusiastic thumbs up.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 700, "id": 129621, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 75, "len_tokens": 102, "text": "I do NOT recommend this broiler pan. It warped within the first 4 minutes of use broiling one ribeye steak. The pan itself weighs 3 lbs. .9 oz. [Amazon's website states incorrectly that it weighs 10.2 lbs! Not even close!!] I also did not find it easy to clean after one use. I washed it with Dawn (once) and Comet (twice) and a green Scotch-Brite pad, and it still has black marks on it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 701, "id": 45346, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 124, "len_tokens": 148, "text": "REVISED REVIEW AFTER 3 YEARS. I use the NewAir portable Ice maker about every other day. It works really great if you keep it clean. At first I used tap water to fill it. Had to clean it about every other fill. I clean it by draining all the water out and use a vinegar dampened lint free clean cloth to wipe down the water reservoir and the iced bin thoroughly. Then I started using filtered water and wow what a difference. The unit stays clean much longer (4-6 fills)and the ice is crystal clear. Just that one change made this machine a top performer. What a great little workhorse!!!I really appreciate how well it functions. PS: the water filter is Brita.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 702, "id": 467584, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 115, "len_tokens": 148, "text": "I bought the Washer and Dryer in 2005 from this company.  Hurricane Wilma hit my home and I had to put them in storage for 4 years.  I moved back in 2009 and went to use them and the washer worked fine, but the dryer belt broke off.  It has been 1 and 1/2 years that I have been waiting for a replacement belt for this dryer. NO ONE in any parts department has this belt , nor can they get one.  The company who I am dealing directly with keeps saying \"It's still on back order\".  Unreal.  They don't care about their customers, that's what I have to tell you.  DO NOT BUY THEIR PRODUCTS", "label": 0}
{"sid": 703, "id": 464379, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 133, "text": "The high star rating has presumably been due to a great price and a quality set of hoses. I bought these hoses in February of 2016 at $10.38. They are now $52.14 -- a five-fold increase in a little over a year. All the great comments I notice were prior to the above mentioned date. To those who said the hoses are much cheaper than Home Depot's, well, Home Depot is asking only $14 for them -- NOW WHOSE CHEAPER!\nI can buy a set of stainless hoses for less than half the price. For that reason I am giving one star for GREED and a much needed reality check.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 704, "id": 66718, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 156, "len_tokens": 179, "text": "I purchased this product because I began to notice that our clothes weren't getting dry. I also had a concern about dryer fires from that insurance commercial they play on TV. I did some research before buying a product to clean our vent system. One word of warning- the vacuum attachments sold on TV have very bad reviews, plus, they're not made to clean the vent. Trust me, there's much more build up in your vents than in your dryer I've found.\n\nOur vent system is very short (about 2 feet), so I didn't have to attach a drill to use the system. The brushes and rods worked great to clean out the vent pipe from inside and outside the house. I was horrified at how much buildup there was in 2 feet of vent pipe to say the least. This product has great directions and is made of good quality materials. I recommend it highly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 705, "id": 362334, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 160, "len_tokens": 192, "text": "First off the company does have really good customer service.  I did call and speak with them and they were pleasant and they did try to help.  Unfortunately the product isn't that great.  States clearly on the item description that this item will replace the factory filter I removed(verified by the filter item #).  When I opened the package I was hopeful.  Looks of good quality.  Looks to be same size and dimensions of the original filter.  I followed the instructions but the filter would not install.  I looked at the inlet and outlet.  They matched.  I looked at the other plastic pieces between the inlet and outlet and found the problem.  I took a picture so you all can see.  The filter on the top is my factory Electrolux filter and the one on the bottom is this Tier 1 filter.  Because of the step down on that piece of plastic it wouldn't mount in my fridge.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 706, "id": 341080, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 106, "len_tokens": 134, "text": "First of all, unless you live in Flint Michigan, your water is probably pretty safe to drink.  The EPA website -for now- has a list of water quality reports for most communities in the US which have public water distribution, I.e., not well water.  My town was >90% for water purity, so it's safe enough.  Most people should buy a filter to remove chlorine and improve taste, that's really the only reason to buy one.  These filters do an OK job of improving taste, but the flow begins to diminish after about 6 weeks in my fridge so, they're not that great.  Am not buying again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 707, "id": 329787, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 133, "len_tokens": 158, "text": "Good purchase. A couple helpful tips... Pour in cold water into reservoir for faster making ice cubes.  I just used tap water and when pouring it out of the ice amker I noticed it had been chilled by the machine in the reservoir itself.  Also if the reservoir is filled to \"max\" then the ice cubes get plunged into a water bath which, of course, melts them faster.  This ice maker makes a lot of cubes with a small amount of water. Next time I'll fill it just a little less.  It was bigger out of the box than what I expected after doing lots of research, but others do come bigger.  All in all it's a great looking item and a good size for our motorhome.  Hope this was helpful for others.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 708, "id": 329410, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 142, "len_tokens": 169, "text": "I bought the first one and it's been  good for several days and started to make big noise, like something bouncing inside. But it was really good, and especially quiet before. And I saw comments and thought the noise might only be a 'rare' broken product. So I bought another one. The second one doesn't make big bouncing sound, or at least hasn't started to do so. But when it normally working it's make huge noise, much louder than the first one. It's even louder than my big fridge. I was expecting the same quiet ice maker like the first one before broke down.\nSo this ice maker could be very good. But the quality of products varies a lot. Maybe I'm just unlucky to get two bad products. But I'm not going to try my luck to get a third one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 709, "id": 322409, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 22, "len_tokens": 122, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R31H66F40ZKQBU\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D19AJu6iWlS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91FWcMR3O2S.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;My review of the Ambient Weather WM-3 weather instrument.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 710, "id": 5159, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 113, "len_tokens": 137, "text": "We have had the wettest year on record here with rainfall over 15 inches above normal. Our finished basement den had water damage 3 times this spring so we bought a dehumidifier which has worked well. I didn't think the humidity gauge on it was reading correctly though and bought this monitor to check. Sure enough the dehumidifier gauge was way off. Now we can run the dehumidifier as needed to maintain the humidity level we want by checking the reading on this monitor. I can't think of anything I don't like about it. It sits upright, easy to read with humidity the primary reading and temperature secondary, but still easy to see.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 711, "id": 106040, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 85, "len_tokens": 111, "text": "These deteriorate very rapidly if you have them close to a high BTU burner. I have a Kitchen Aid stovetop, the largest burner is 14,000 BTU, and these lose their shape and turn into goo within 2 weeks. Yup, I used high temp black silicone to secure these. I've bought 2 different sets of these from an appliance parts co. and had the same problem. Figured I'd try the Bosch and Viking grate feet from Amazon -- the Viking feet failed as well. Frustrated!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 712, "id": 344556, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 134, "len_tokens": 175, "text": "The OEM filters are pricey, but to me they're worth every penny. I have looked all around for any other alternative that is rated as highly as these for contaminant reduction and there are none. I cannot find a single filter that replaces UKF8001 that is both NSF/ANSI 42 and NSF/ANSI 53, let alone NSF/ANSI 401 as well! All the cheaper, non-OEM filters that I have seen are NSF 42 only, if certified at all. I don't see the point in wasting money on a cheap filter that may not actually be filtering anything instead of paying up for a filter that filters contaminants like Naproxen and DEET out of the water. Do yourself a favor: if you're actually trying to filter your water, get this filter. I've had 4 now, all worked perfectly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 713, "id": 428238, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 116, "len_tokens": 139, "text": "All Pros:\n-Perfect fit between new counter top and new slide in range. Offset molded divider allows smaller overlap to range, but wider overlap to counter.\n-Flexible silicone material follows slight contour of range top, but lays perfectly flat on counter top.\n-Matte black finish on top of divider makes divider look like it was custom fit.\n-Easy to trim with scissors to fit angled counter top on one side of range.\n-Very easy to clean up splashes and drips and seals the gap so drips don't go down the side of the range.\nCons:\n-None. Functions as well as anyone would expect. Much better than the aluminum gap cover I used on the old range.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 714, "id": 104254, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 123, "text": "This a 9 cube ice maker which fits a Samsung RF 4287HARS/XAA. It should be noted that a 7 cube maker was also listed with the same part Number. I counted the holes on the side of my ice maker, after removing the ice tray to ensure mine was a  9 cube version. It took less than 10 minutes to install. Once installed I pressed the reset button for approx 15 seconds. I did not hear any chimes or noise. Approx 3 hours later I did hear some ice drop. I woke up to see many cubes in the tray.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 715, "id": 51156, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 140, "len_tokens": 166, "text": "This is a great compact, quiet washer for small spaces- size of a dishwasher.\nI have same problems with this washer like one of the reviewers- Mark M. And same dilemma- do I try to fix it or get a different washer? I am not sure if other brand compact model even if it has a lint trap, will be better or have more problems than this one. I've had this washer for 6 years. Had to take water pump numerous times (coins, pins, ect). My main complain is regarding that. Overall I was happy with the purchase. Used it often. And a month ago error code 3E appeared, and like Mark stated it could get costly to try fixing it.\nI also, have matching dryer. I think it takes a bit longer to dry, but overall no problems.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 716, "id": 156747, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 86, "len_tokens": 110, "text": "My dishwasher door suddenly fell down a couple months ago. Can't find appliance parts locally. Called the repair guys and $65 minimum just to come out. I couldn't imagine paying someone that much money for something so easy to repair.\n\nUnscrewed the dishwasher from the counter and removed the baseboard cover\nLowered the leveling feet.\nPulled the dishwasher out of the hole.\nRemoved the old parts.\nInstalled the new parts.\nPut everything back\nLeveled the dishwasher\nTotal repair time 25 minutes and saved at least $50.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 717, "id": 148644, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 138, "text": "The load size is about 2/3 of a regular washing machine's. The \"speedy\"cycle is useful when wanting a quicker wash, and the pause function allows additional items of clothing to be added at anytime. (The machine stops automatically when the lid is lifted during the wash cycle, however, the pause button is a less abrupt option.) Sheets and towels get dropped off at the laundromat (because it's nice to have them washed, dried and folded). Clothing gets washed in the Avanti, effectively, in the comfort of the kitchen. Silicone tape was added to the hose connection at the washing machine to solve a small leak. Magic stuff, that tape.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 718, "id": 522785, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 161, "len_tokens": 187, "text": "The innovative design makes maximum efficient use of space and is particularly appropriate for specialty cooking. True BTU output as rated. Looks very nice. Stainless steel knobs and grates are made out of heavy duty and quality materials. There is also a flame failure safety device which shuts off the gas when the thermocouple doesn't detect any heat coming from the burners (which means the fire isn't lit), this is very useful as I'm sure many people have smelled gas accidentally being released into the air because you don't give the fire a chance to be ignited when you turn the knob too fast. Overall, this is a great cooktop and the supplier's price is unbeatable. The customer service at Cosmo is excellent, they were very helpful and attentive to the questions I had before purchasing the cooktop and also were very fast in response when I was wondering where my package was. The delivery and service was fast and efficient.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 719, "id": 116237, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 84, "len_tokens": 107, "text": "Our icemaker stopped making ice.  I considered trying to identify the specific part that was failing (thermostat, control, heater, etc.).  The entire unit was cheaper than most sites wanted for some of those specific parts.  So, I thought I'd take a risk and replace the entire icemaker.  it was really simple to take out the old one and put in the new one (2 screens and one wire harness to unplug).  It worked great.  Our ice tray was filled in 4 days.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 720, "id": 186174, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 138, "len_tokens": 173, "text": "It does a good job, first and foremost.  The 2 rinse cycles really get the detergent out.  Clothes come out clean and fresh.  The washing chamber is small, however.  For the size of the machine, only about 1/2 of it is used for actual washing capacity.  So a big improvement here would be to have a larger washing chamber and compact the other components.\n\nSetting up the hoses and attachments is also a bit of a pain..particularly having to do it every time you use it.  Someone needs to invent a universal attachment that makes it easy to get the hoses on and off.  I suppose it's a necessary evil if you want an auto-rinse cycle.\n\nIt's not loud, but you can definitely hear it while it runs.  Not enough to matter unless you're super sensitive to noise.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 721, "id": 461217, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 150, "len_tokens": 169, "text": "Ordering and delivery was great. Like others said: driver calls ahead and is there in time.\nHad one issue with the dryer: some clamps to keep the top in place were missing. Called Amana and their local repair man could only come out 2 days later and they advised me not to use the dryer till then.\nBut clamps were installed and dryer does its job.\nThe only complaint I have is about the location of the lint filter. My old dryer had it in the door opening and somehow that reminded me to clean it every load. This dryer has the lint filter on top and the first loads I forgot to clean it.\nAlso because it is on top, the dirt falls out on the top of the machine when you clean the filter making a bit of a mess.\n\nBut price was right, so happy for now.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 722, "id": 280995, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 114, "len_tokens": 128, "text": "Works excellent. I used to packages joined together to clean out a 20+ foot dryer exhaust run. The only complaint I have is that it is difficult to unscrew the poles once they are screwed together. I basically had to use the drill in reverse to get them to unscrew. In truth for the few times a year I will use this to clean my dryer it is not a big deal.\n\nFollowing the instructions of another poster after I used this brush to clean out / loosen up all of the dust I attached my leaf blower to the vent (inside the house) and blew everything outside. The combination really did the trick.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 723, "id": 558647, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 131, "len_tokens": 151, "text": "Bought the Hot Water Inlet Valve and the Cold.  Husband had the new ones installed in a few minutes.  Perfect solution for my 10 year old Bosch Nexxt 500 washing machine - the drum started slowing filling with water to the point that I had to shut off the water to the machine after my last load of the day.  Otherwise, water would overflow onto the floor by the next morning (I always leave the door open to the washer).  An interesting tip I found was you should change the cold water inlet valve when you notice that the fabric dispenser does not drain properly.  My dispenser has not worked correctly in at least a year.  With the new valves installed, I feel like I have a brand new machine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 724, "id": 211335, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 153, "len_tokens": 187, "text": "I HATE Laundromats. They gross me out. I bought this almost a year ago and this little cutie is a god send. It's highly efficient and washes my clothes better then even the regular washing machine I used to have. Yes, the loads are small but I am single and live alone so I don't have tons of laundry. I put it in my bathroom on a small chest and fill it with my hand held shower head then drain it in the bathtub. Very handy. I've waited  almost a year to review this product so I could  see how well it held up. Still going strong with no problems . It's paid for its self already by saving me  time and all those quarters I used to spend at those disgusting Laundromats. (I brought crabs home from one once...eewww) I highly recommend this gem for anyone that wants to keep life simple.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 725, "id": 81598, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 118, "len_tokens": 132, "text": "It works great and was easy to install.  It came with a new temp sensor and fuse on it as well so I did not have to take the time to take them off of the old part and put them on the new one saving me time. I did not have to use the extra wire and wire nuts though.  I simply unplugged the old part and plugged in the new one then installed the element and put the two screws in to hold it.  It was an easy quick fix.  I also received the item in a timely manner even though it was during the holiday season.  This is  seller I will utilize in the future.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 726, "id": 360807, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 120, "text": "Who knew that finding, purchasing and installing a replacement part for a washer could be so easy? Okay, so an appliance repairman would know but I am definitely not one and this was a breeze. I was worried that the part would not fit my particular machine but this seller said in his listing that it would and he was absolutely right. The product came very quickly and was packaged extremely well - the part was in perfect condition. The new part went in as easily as the old one came out and the machine works perfectly. If I ever need a replacement part again, I know where to start.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 727, "id": 405423, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 93, "len_tokens": 108, "text": "A little louder than expected, but I think it is amplified by the tile floor and lack of other noise. So far it is keeping the sodas cold. It actually looks better than the pictures, only draw back was trying to figure out the shelving arrangement, manual is a little sparse on assembly instructions.\nNow have had it full for about two weeks, no complaints, only wish is that i had decided on it sooner.  First unit never made it to me, was damaged in shipping. Second one arrived in near perfect box.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 728, "id": 47247, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 82, "len_tokens": 106, "text": "Good length, cleans easily, and definintely keeps crumbs and drips out of opening.\nThis seam protector does what you need it to do. I needed and ordered 2 seam covers- one for each side of stove. However, only one will fit in place at a given time.  Strange...but there isn't enough space for both to be used at once.  I have a free-standing GE range between granite countertops.  Great product, just wish I could have both protectors in place at same time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 729, "id": 264222, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 94, "len_tokens": 110, "text": "What can I say, it's a hinge bearing. My fridge had a cracked bearing, which caused it to 'drop' every time it was opened. We were unable to fix the original, and were very happy to find this reasonably priced replacement. Installation was easy, and it fixed the issue right away. Has been holding up to my 3-child household, and will hopefully be a part that lasts longer than the fridge itself. Very glad I was able to purchase this part myself at a good price and replace it without having to hire anyone.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 730, "id": 567682, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 125, "text": "Its a nice little washing machine, had it for going on 3 years and its still kicking. I wish i was easier to remove the little lint bag, without having to unscrew the entire lid. And also wish that the lid was sturdier.\n\nBUT don't let that steer you away from this gem. Its quick, cheap, and perfect sized for my little a** manhattan appt. I just throw my laundry on a line thats out my window and fire escape and laundry is DONE! Nothing splashes out, nothing leaks, keep the hose up... don't be dumb... use that brain.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 731, "id": 138368, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 150, "len_tokens": 180, "text": "I bought another kit from another seller who used this same exact photo. and description. I did not get Kegco parts. I go faulty junk and crappy faucets. I didn't even fill the tank, didn't trust it, sent it all back. I followed the other reviewers advice this time and bought from Beverage Factory and got EXACTLY what is pictured. Not just close, the exact everything. My only complaint about the quality is that they sent plastic hose clamps rathe than metal, but these cost a couple bucks for four of them so no biggie, just was one more trip to lowes than I expected to make. I still have zero regrets and just ordered a couple more faucets from Beverage Factory to expand my home brew offerings. Don't getting garbage to save a couple bucks if anything, get the real Kegco gear from the vendor who does it right.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 732, "id": 334461, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 106, "len_tokens": 129, "text": "Perfect fit and easy installation.  The whole job took maybe 1/2 hour.  The only drawback was that there are 2 different color bearings (gray and white) with no real indication as to which goes where.  As far as I can tell, it doesn't really matter - or I guessed correctly!!  The cost is fantastic here as it would cost almost as much to buy the drum bearings and shield alone as it does for this kit which includes a new belt.  The dryer prior to replacing these parts was making a loud squeeling noise (for months before the belt snapped).  Now it's smooth and quiet.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 733, "id": 33217, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 131, "len_tokens": 161, "text": "This product looks great.  Delivery was great.  The problem I have is the element I bought with it, recommended as \"bought together\" was a bit more than a hair too big to fit.  The element (Ge 8-Inch Range Surface Element) with the typical 3 point support was a few hairs too big to fit in the drip pan.  It did fit well in the ancient original pan.  It has been a bear to find drip pans on Amazon with the 3-point slots but into the pan (still looking).\n\nSo, I can't give the pans 5 stars because they are going back and I can't give an honest assessment.  I would caution folks on making a joint purchase of an element and these drip pans as they may not work together.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 734, "id": 121668, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 135, "len_tokens": 161, "text": "We got this dishwasher in 2010, and loved it at first.  The quiet was wonderful after our older noisy machine.  But several months later it started smelling - we noticed a build up of brownish goo inside.  My husband had to watch a video someone posted on YouTube to find out how to take it apart in order to get all the yucky buildup out.  Quite an ordeal that needs repeating every 6 months. Not what you expect for an appliance that cost what this one did.  Now it just won't work at all.  It comes on when I start it, then the lights blink, then it quits - no matter how many times I restart it.  I can't decide if I want to pay to have it fixed or just get a new dishwasher!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 735, "id": 71501, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 129, "len_tokens": 150, "text": "Happy Customer! I don't use this on my refrigerator anymore because of the fridge design change, but it is effective if you have coils open to the outside.  Now I use it on my dryer to clean the open area into which the filter fits. No matter how diligent I am about cleaning the filter, it seems some lint still drops into that void.  This gets into all parts of that area and you will be amazed at how much lint comes out.  Every time I thought it was clean I'd find more in little spaces. Over time I'm sure this saves energy and reduces the fire hazard.  I don't use this often, but when I do it works great.  How else would you clean that oddly spaced area?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 736, "id": 321643, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 121, "len_tokens": 142, "text": "We were worried initially about ordering such a large item online. It weighs 175 pounds. Everything worked great. It was shipped on time and arrived in a huge truck and in excellent condition. The delivery people opened the carton and let us inspect it for damages. All was fine. We had a local techinician modify our cabinet slightly and install it. We still are learning how to use it. We are very happy with it so far. We upped ordering it through Amazon although it cost an extra $100 rather then directly from the seller because we wanted the addiional confidence that Amazon inspires. Plus we received $72 from Amazon in rewards anyway. We love it so far and recommend highly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 737, "id": 117475, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 91, "len_tokens": 102, "text": "Beware of the amazon reviews! If you select see all reviews and then filter them for verified purchasers only, you will find that many generic models of this filter have tons of glowing reviews from people who did not purchase the product. I suspect dishonesty. I like saving money on a good generic, but after diligently searching the options I purchased this brand filter and I'm very happy with it. It fit perfectly. I ran a gallon of water through to clear it and the water flows fast and clean again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 738, "id": 300335, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 118, "len_tokens": 130, "text": "This kit worked great to vent my dryer from the right, lots of extra pieces since kit is used to vent from all sides so you only use what you need.  the kit was missing clamps and screws that was called for on instructions but I had extras available at home.  the instructions were very good and it was not hard at all to install (I would consider myself pretty handy).  The best part of getting this kit is that now I know how to get to the blower to clean (after only one year it was pretty dirty in my opinion, so taking cover off and cleaning it will be an annual thing for home maint)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 739, "id": 93572, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 133, "len_tokens": 150, "text": "The only issue I have with the filter right now is that the filter is longer or taller than the Aqua-Pure Plus filter. I had to remove my top shelf in order to put the filter in place, which I never had to do before. I normally have the top shelf sit in the first from the top position. After installing the filter the shelf fits back into the top position again. I have a Samsung series RF256 fridge. I did not use the lubricant but the filter has not leaked. I installed it last night and had black ice this morning,I don't remember that ever happened before, but I guess it's just the filter flushing. For the price I'm happy as long as I do not continue to get black ice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 740, "id": 208002, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 140, "len_tokens": 167, "text": "Have to be honest, don't like this filter.\nWent yellow and crusty at the bottom(water end) in the first tank of water. The original filter in Vicks Starry Night humidifier did not to do this so I know it's not our water or air quality. The original filter did not discolor or smell weird AND it did not have metal in the middle- which I cut myself on trying to make the darn thing fit properly. The original filter supplied by the manufacture lasted just over 30'days running 24/7. This filter didn't last the week! I see most of the reviews for this brand and others are not favorable so I will call the manufacture and see if I can order a filter from them direct. Keeping my fingers crossed this brand of filter is not my only option.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 741, "id": 182053, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 93, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "This is the only kit you should buy its for a refrigerator that is set up for an ice maker but wasn't installed at time of original purchase. That being said it's the most complete kit I've found I tried several different vendors be careful on what actually comes with the ice maker alot of them just send ice maker no instructions no parts. It took me 45 minutes to install. That's because my house was missing parts so I had to run to hardware store. So actual time to install  20 minutes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 742, "id": 18401, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 142, "len_tokens": 180, "text": "First of all, there is not a blue pre filter on any of the ones I've received as part of the subscription plan.  Second, these last at most 2-3 weeks, even by following some of the tips on the reviews/comments by extending the life of the filter.  It seems as if the quality of the filters have just gotten worse over time.  Granted the prices do seem to reflect the changes.  The filters started at $15 bucks about 2 years ago but lasted around 1-2 months.  I've tried to make this work but having to replace the filters so frequently and having to clean the entire humidifier every few weeks... I'm done.  At this point, I've cancelled my subscription (have had this humidifier running for almost 2 years) and will be selling the humidifier and purchasing one that doesn't need a filter.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 743, "id": 451583, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 113, "len_tokens": 147, "text": "My wife and I live in a newly renovated condo building with all 12 apartments equipped with the Summit Washer and Dryer combo.  So far this year 10 out of 12 units have failed.  I'd rate this product ZERO out of five stars if Amazon let you submit a score that low.\nBuyer beware:\n1.  The machine is LOUD.\n2.  The machine is very slow.\n3.  The capacity is tiny.\n4.  It WILL break.\n5.  When I dialed the first appliance repair company in the yellow pages, they instantly knew where I lived before I could even finish saying Summit Washer/ Dryer combo.\n\nPlease, please consider other choices and save yourself the headaches!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 744, "id": 410335, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 102, "len_tokens": 116, "text": "I required a refrigerator but I was leaning towards a mini fridge and upon seeing the reviews I decided on this model. It is SO spacious and it does not take up much space considering the 6.3 cu.ft. it holds. I was worried that it might arrive with dents but it was in pristine condition. Also setting this model up was EASY. Getting the right temperature through the different zones is a little difficult but just know that your deli meat drawer has the potential to partially freeze items since it is below the freezer section. Overall this is a great fridge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 745, "id": 53871, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 86, "len_tokens": 126, "text": "Used first time yesterday and today.  Upon turning on for first time, it popped the circuit breaker.  Then when reset, the Range made scary \"poofing\" noises.  Reheated ribs at 375. Poof, poof, poof.  This morning, biscuits at 350.  Oven roasted pot roast for dinner at 350 for 1 hour and 250 for 5 hours.  Opened oven to retrieve pot roast and found shattered door glass. Only thing good about the stove was the delicious pot roast!  I don't want this oven! It scares me to death.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 746, "id": 567127, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 94, "len_tokens": 112, "text": "This was an exact fit for my washing machine.  Unfortunately the first on I ordered went bad after the first wash. I ordered another and the first one was refunded promptly.  The second one is working as it should.  UPDATE:  The second one I ordered to replace the first defective one has now gone defective in the same way after only a little more than 2 months.  Apparently the manufacturer has some defective solenoids on this unit.  There is only a 30 day return policy on the unit so I am out the money.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 747, "id": 563613, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 155, "len_tokens": 187, "text": "I received this today and thought I'd received the wrong part. Apparently, they've updated it a bit in the past 11 years.  Another reminder I'm getting old. The plastic is no longer blue (not a big concern), but it was missing two electrical connectors as shown in photos. I had a return label printed before I put any thought to it.  Once I looked closer, I realized the original part never used the two missing connectors.  Ten minutes of ranting for nothing.\n\nThe only issue is that one of the connectors is now a bit more of a reach, and the wire has almost no play.  It works, but I'm just waiting for that wire to pop off. That one poor blue wire is holding the entire wire bundle up.\n\nVery easy to install.  Five screws on the back panel, two behind the dial, and some wires. Hope it lasts as long as the original.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 748, "id": 565713, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 102, "text": "I thought this would be a good alternative to the expensive Samsung version. Received it and installed without a hitch. Water pressure coming through was minimal. Not bad if you want to wait an eternity to fill a glass. We have removed and re-installed without success. Emailed and got no response. Severely disappointed in this product after I saw pretty decent reviews. Will not repurchase and now will have to spend the additional to purchase the more expensive version. You get what you pay for I guess.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 749, "id": 145775, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 105, "len_tokens": 123, "text": "My washing machine stopped working after the initial wash cycle. The water wouldn't drain, it would move on to the rinse cycle. After checking online for possible causes, I finally narrowed it down to either the pump being blocked, or the lid switch. We checked the pump and nothing was blocking it, so I decided to try the lid switch. I found it at different places with price ranges from $5+ to $30+. So glad I picked this seller to buy it from. Not only is it the cheapest, the part is identical to the original, and upon installing it, my machine is working again!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 750, "id": 462076, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 70, "len_tokens": 102, "text": "We have a Bravos Washer (MVWB400VQ0) that is an absolutely lemon.  Do not buy these products.  They are cheaply made and simply do not work.  Many components fail shortly after the warranty expires.  Our unit wads clothes into a ball and does not get them clean.  Additionally, the clean washer cycle will run all day (filling, refilling, refilling) wasting gallons of water and energy.  There should be a massive recall.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 751, "id": 320270, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 102, "len_tokens": 124, "text": "We (husband, newborn, and I) live in a NYC-studio apt so imagine our delight that this fits perfectly in our home to exclusively store my baby's breastmilk stash and ice cream (for me!). I love that it's ready to go after taking out from the box and cools/ice up nice and easy. Don't let the size fool you -- it is so roomy on the inside and has a little basket to store goodies (ice, or in my case, ice cream!). This is a perfect buy for people like us who needs a spacious freezer in a small living space.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 752, "id": 208022, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 80, "len_tokens": 106, "text": "It works but it is a lot noisier than the previous ones I have installed.  I hope it's not a rebuild.  This is really my 4th time replacing this part, so I'm an expert by now.  Needed to do the fuse this time, but that's not always true.  Advice: Check fuse first.  I have about lost my patience with this washer, as it seems $100 repair every two years is the norm for this unit.  Can't fault the part though.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 753, "id": 69505, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 116, "len_tokens": 135, "text": "If you've done your research, you know that the hoses made for washing machines, whether rubber or stainless woven mesh, are all supposed to function the same way and pass certain quality standards (at least here in the USA). I set out to buy a black rubber hose hot/cold set, because locally those are cheaper than the prettier looking stainless woven hose sets. I was pretty surprised to find this set selling for 1/3 of what a rubber hose set would cost locally.\nThe positive reviews from other buyers helped us decide to give these a try. After inspecting abs installing them, we are very happy and impressed with their quality. I would recommend these.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 754, "id": 494591, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 104, "len_tokens": 127, "text": "It fixed my issue of no ice.  This seems to be a weak part for the Samsung refrigerators.  Before you purchase one try the forced defrost feature.  You can find directions on youtube.  It may or may not fix the problem but it is worth a try.  I did it even for the new ice maker as it was slow to make ice.  It takes about 30 minutes to complete and the refrigerator beeps as this is going on.  It didn't defrost the food in the freezer and your food is fine in the refrigerator.  I read where the water feed line can freeze.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 755, "id": 386285, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 101, "len_tokens": 119, "text": "As there were no dimensions provided for the product I just had to keep my fingers crossed that it would fit.  I have a 15 year old Kenmore dishwasher and the old basket looked like the picture so I risked it.  It fit beautifully!  You'd think we'd won the lottery - my husband was even thrilled with the new basket since we've been having silverware fall through for years now.  While I heartily recommend this product, I do think it would be helpful to provide potential purchasers with measurements so they can feel sure the basket will fit in their machines.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 756, "id": 48120, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 131, "len_tokens": 162, "text": "I 'like' this product because, it does do what it does. As it heats, it only does that for a short period of time, making it calm the fact that it soothes the sensation out, not burning. The exfoliating crystals feel good, and I keep scrubbing for 1-2 minutes and keep it on for 30 more seconds- thus rinse is where it comes in! The results are noticeable, but you will start to feel the smoothness texture of your skin in one use. In one week, my acne scars were fading pretty slowly, and still are fading.\n\nAfter using this scrub at night, I suggest a nice vitamin C cream, or serum. Your face will look glowing and radiant in the morning- trust me. Make sure you limit your sun exposure!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 757, "id": 295597, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 110, "text": "Very good filter. We felt the taste of good water as soon as we started using it. In a family of two, we use the filtered water from the refrigerator for drinking and tap water for washings of all kinds. We have always preferred the the filter solution for water drinking in comparison with any kind of chemical alternative, being afraid of possible chemical residues in the latter. We intend to come back later with information on filter's usable life. With the original GE filter and our described water consumption, we had to change the filter once a year.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 758, "id": 71496, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 104, "len_tokens": 125, "text": "Created nice tight connection without requiring much space between dryer and wall just as advertised.  I thought the design was far superior to a different brand I purchased at Lowes/Home Depot for a previous installation.\n\nInstallation was easy, but as discussed in other reviews, have metal tape (not duct tap) ready to seal up the ends once you've determined the correct length for the ducting.  The instructions say that you can leave the excess ducting, but odds are if you need this type of connection, you probably don't have room for a bunch unused ducting, so having tin snips available is a good idea.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 759, "id": 537521, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 79, "len_tokens": 103, "text": "This was a PERFECT fit and replacement for the evaporator fan (WR60X160) in my Hotpoint CTX20GG.  Installed easily and seems to be working great (and quietly).  Definitely breathed some new life into this old fridge.  I do wish it came with the rear rubber bushing, but I found an almost exact fit for one at Ace Hardware.  Received very fast delivery from Seneca River Trading, and the item was very fairly priced -- I highly recommend this vendor.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 760, "id": 186720, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 103, "len_tokens": 128, "text": "A dryer stop blowing hot air we went online, looked at some repair videos, and bought a fuse tester. We found out, hey it's the fuse...so we called the manufacturer (Kenmore) and they offered to send out another one. It was kind of an expensive price with an expensive postage, and I thought you know what? I bet this is on Amazon.com.  I looked it up with it's part number, and sure enough Amazon had it for a fraction of the price. we got it within a couple days, put it in, and BAM our dryer is working like brand new! Amazingly fantastic! !", "label": 1}
{"sid": 761, "id": 210936, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 132, "len_tokens": 170, "text": "Oh man, do I love this little washer!  I have hated the idea of using the public washer in my building for a long time. Never mind trudging my clothes up and down three flights of stairs!  The final straw was when the landlord made washing in our building more expensive than the laundry mat.  My son purchased one first and after I saw how it worked - I couldn't wait to get mine.  It came in a few days.  Was packaged very well.  Does a great job on my clothes!  I have control over temp and rinsing.  Works great.  Holds *about 1/3 of clothes from a traditional washer.  But since it's handy, clothes don't pile up. Thank you, Panda for this well made machine at an affordable price! Love, love, love!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 762, "id": 320412, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 128, "len_tokens": 165, "text": "First, as so many reviews have noted, the manufacturer needs to improve the packaging to prevent damage to the sheet metal housing.  Mine arrived with a small (<inch diameter) dent on the back which affects nothing, but others haven't been so fortunate.  That said, the unit works very well.  I gave it half a day to settle then plugged it in and set it to nearly the coldest setting.  I'm using it to store feeder animals (mice, chicks, quail, rats, etc.)as well as unhatched brine shrimp eggs and frozen fish foods (gel food, bloodworms, etc.) and want them to remain rock hard frozen until needed- this does the job and also holds a decent amount so I can take advantage of sales.  Very happy with the purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 763, "id": 237669, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 102, "len_tokens": 129, "text": "I used this valve for a Kenmore refrigerator that has both an icemaker and water dispenser.  It was super easy to install.  Isolate the water to the refrigerator first.  Then just remove and reattach the hoses one by one.  You can't get confused because the threads to the water dispenser are larger than the threads to the icemaker.  It takes less than 10 mins to install.  Replacing this inlet valve yourself saves about $140 that a plumber would charge.  Once installed, run the water through the water dispenser for a minute or so to get the air out of the line.  Enjoy!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 764, "id": 72859, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 103, "len_tokens": 122, "text": "Not worth it!  The item was received with dents due to poor packaging, and is also missing the top part (the straight part that connects to the outside vent).  The material is very flimsy and has very large gaps everywhere - even places that were welded. The weld jobs looks like a 1st grader had a field day making random spot weld points.  I am not going to return this since I can modify it to make it work for my needs (using a lot of aluminum tape and metal shear), but I definitely would not recommend this piece of overpriced junk.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 765, "id": 65925, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 117, "len_tokens": 137, "text": "This thing is awesome it just hogs the hell out of the dryer vent.  I turned my dryer on blowing cold air then took the auger brush and started going to town.  Some things I found out while researching this item that helped me\n\n1.). Use a drill to help clean it out works way better than by hand alone\n\n2.). Set cordless drill clutch to a low setting to prevent from breaking poles.  I have an 18 volt Ryobi and I set my clutch to 4.\n\n3.). Never ever ever turn drill in counterclockwise direction unless you want to go fishing for disconnected poles.  Can duct tape joints in case you may forget", "label": 1}
{"sid": 766, "id": 256443, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 123, "len_tokens": 147, "text": "Wanting to save money, I took a chance on this off-brand filter. After all, the reviews were largely positive. After trying out the new filter for a week, I have to question the water quality of the people who wrote the approving reviews. This filter made our water taste considerably worse than it comes straight from the tap. As one of the few naysayers said, it makes your water taste like it came from a garden hose. We followed the package directions for prepping the filter before installation, and I watered my flowers through it for several days, hoping to clear out the plastic/chemical taste, but no luck. This product was returned and I shelled out for the real GE model. Lesson learned.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 767, "id": 279479, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 122, "len_tokens": 149, "text": "They have serious quality control problem.\nI ordered one. It came with a huge dent about 2x4 inch in the front/side of the case. For one thing you see numerous times everyday, this is unacceptable.  Ok , with amazon's excellent return policy. I returned it.\nHowever, I also ordered tubing etc with it. So I think I can give them another shot. I ordered a second one, and it came with a dent on the right side/front panel junction, almost same size dent as the first one. Both time, the outer case showed no damages, which means they squeezed it too hard while packing it.\nNow I am left with the tubing, and have to find another hood with the correct size vent.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 768, "id": 209827, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 86, "len_tokens": 103, "text": "Perfect match for the LG 26cuft fridge model # LSC26905TT. Works like a brand new fridge again. It is worth noting that if your replacing your water pump make sure you hold onto the little plastic clips that fit around the connections. My pump did not come with any new clips so I was glad I held onto the bad pump. Other than that fits great...works great...easy to replace, and best part is was a lot cheaper than some places I found the same pump at.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 769, "id": 511047, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 114, "len_tokens": 133, "text": "This refrigerator door seal was a perfect  match to the original.  Repair Clinics site and their Live chat both stated that it was a OEM replacement part and it truly was.  It was NOT a aftermarket part.  I watched their video on how to do the installation.  I soaked the seal in hot water before installation and the seal was Almost perfect.  I used a hair dryer on two small spots that need a little attention and within a couple of minutes the door sealed perfectly.  It was worth paying more money for the OEM part.  Great Product.  The vendor repair clinic is great to do business with and the shipping was very quick.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 770, "id": 367511, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 119, "len_tokens": 140, "text": "It was just what we wanted to replace a Frigidaire that only lasted 5 years. Getting used to the new button placement was a bit of a challenge. The overall operation is good. When ordering it there was a promotion offering a $50.00 award for participation in a certain program. However nothing ensued but there was no $50.00 award.  Did I mention that two ovens were delivered about two days apart., The one that came on the first day had a box that looked like it had been in the great flood so I wanted to check for damage. Found none. The second delivery looked good but I had already opened the first one and decided to keep it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 771, "id": 425093, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 106, "len_tokens": 120, "text": "After remodeling our home I vowed never to let my new oven look like our old one. The very first time I used the oven to cook a frozen pizza a bunch of the toppings fell to the bottom & created a mess. That's when I decided to buy these. They work as designed & have caught many spills. They wipe clean very easily. The only negative is the smell they produce while cooking. It's a plastic burning/chemical type smell. It goes away after the oven has been on a while & doesn't make the food taste funny. I will never use my oven without them!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 772, "id": 562306, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 152, "len_tokens": 186, "text": "Ok, this fridge is fantastic BUT it arrived WITHOUT the inserts for the door which hold beverages in place!  I would give it a 5, except the service from the manufacturer has been AWFUL.  We have called them several times, talked to varied people including a supervisor, and it comes down to this: the fridge is so new they didn't bother to make any spare parts for it.  So we've been told to \"check back\" in a few months (!) to see if they have the part.  The sad part is their warehouse is in our hometown, and we asked if we could drive over there, have them open up one and give us the parts & they wouldn't do it.  Guess they'd rather not inconvenience themselves by taking care of it by having an open fridge in THEIR inventory?  NOT great service.  Really great product, if you can use it as intended!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 773, "id": 464470, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 95, "len_tokens": 130, "text": "The stove looks great when new and functioned well initially but we have had recurrent maintenance problem.  It is very difficult to keep clean, enamel chipped all over the grates, individual ignition failed twice on the controls, glass top broke with routine use, rubber gasket on downdraft grate split in half.  Cost for parts is prohibitive.  The rubber gasket is $93.00, the glass top replacement is $715.00, to replace the iron grates would be $404.00.  My stove is about five years old and looks older now than the 15 year old Jenn Aire we replaced.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 774, "id": 372396, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 133, "text": "I ordered this item over a month ago. When it came in, it had a huge dent on the side. I noticed there was very little packing on the box- the lest little bump would cause a dent. Amazon picked it up immediately, I ordered another one, thinking it would be ok.  This one was even worse. There are probable 30 dents all over this item. The item back is so dented it is pulled out from the frame.  I plugged it in just to see if it even worked.  Guess what - it didn't work.  After two tries - it's going back and I will not order another one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 775, "id": 551036, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 113, "len_tokens": 148, "text": "This filter attached easily and securely on the first try.  It replaced a Kenmore GEN11042FR-08 filter for my Kenmore refrigerator (which is essentially a re-branded LG model).  After running water through as instructed, the taste seemed better but honestly not that much different than my tap water.  I suppose it's doing it's job but the filter industry has it made in the shade.  It's hard to track down how efficiently these filters work. What are we paying for?  Do they they remove 50% of any lead and mercury or closer to 90%? What brand works better?  If they were independently tested and the results easy to find,  I'd give a higher rating.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 776, "id": 456311, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 129, "len_tokens": 171, "text": "I've had this microwave/convection oven for 7 years. I bought this so that i'd have an extra oven and my husband would have his microwave.\nAfter 7 years it's finally kicked the bucket. That's how long these last these days, right??\nI have to say that in 7 years, i've not had any problems with it. In fact, I\"m writing this review because i'm looking to purchase the exact same one to replace it.\nI can't say that I've had any regrets. It microwaves well and as a convection oven, it's wonderful. IT's a great extra oven for the holidays. Other than the fact that it broke, now... a few weeks before Thanksgiving, I can't complain.\n\nI hope this helps...\nPS: My light bulb worked until the end. LOL", "label": 1}
{"sid": 777, "id": 523548, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 117, "len_tokens": 128, "text": "Solved ALL my washer issues!!! I wish I would have just ordered this part sooner but soooo glad I finally did. I was a little nervous to install it, but I did my research online and found a bunch of good help tips. AND what I found out on my own is you will need some of the plastic parts off of your old part once you remove it from your washer. This replacement part uses little plastic arms and tips that are not included. So you take those pieces off of your OLD part and clip then in place on your NEW part, and then you can properly install this part on your washer.\nWorks great!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 778, "id": 272858, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 94, "len_tokens": 106, "text": "Great so far, but vents are on side so not sure how it's going to effect shelves we were going to put up (might have to build a side piece a few inches away and just wipe off occasionally). Buttons are heat sensitive, so if your hands are cold it doesn't work. Beeps very loud when you push buttons (we have a baby so can't turn on/off light if trying to get him to sleep in adjoining living room). Light is so bright that often we use it as a countertop light.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 779, "id": 13943, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 105, "len_tokens": 131, "text": "the machine worked well for about a mounth and than the rake that puts the ice in the bin broke . they sent a new rake  ,then the pins broke this was about a mouth or2 later  i had to gess how to put that on tray and all in .year later it will not make ice . when it worked it was nice  made ice about every 7 to8 min  nice  while it worked at this point ill buy another  kind of machine  never a danby  dim1524w again  do not  buy it you money will be gone and no ice in you bin!@#$%^&", "label": 0}
{"sid": 780, "id": 47772, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 132, "len_tokens": 154, "text": "I started using this product about two months ago and am happy with the results. I have oily skin so I prefer to only use it every other day or every few days...which is not as directed but I still feel has given me decent results, just probably slower, as expected. My pores are definitely clearer and some of my old pink spots are diminished. My skin feels great after using this! I love how it heats up nicely just enough where it's not too hot.\nI use Olay regenerist facial cleanser daily and I do cleanse my face before using this. Still not sure why it's referred to as a peel, it is more like an exfoliate, but really feels like a nice facial treatment. My only complaint is the price!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 781, "id": 341755, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 150, "len_tokens": 176, "text": "Here's a five dollar purchase that will save you hundreds of dollars in repair, or buying a new washing machine.\n\nUsed this to replace a broken one on a thousand year old Kenmore 90 series washer.  For those wondering if the 285753AP is the same as the 285753A (no P at the end) that is listed on the manufacturer's parts list, it is.\n\nWhile it can be bit of a trick to get the clips back on the motor while you're holding it up with the other hand, you might find placing a stack of old magazines underneath while clipping in back into place will help greatly (there are good installation tutorial videos online, but they don't share this tip).  Just be sure to remove them before you button everything back up.\n\nInstallation provides a good opportunity to do a little cleaning inside and under the washer as well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 782, "id": 107227, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 112, "len_tokens": 136, "text": "Ok, I bought this bc my sister told me it worked so well for her.  Well, apparently it is really hit or miss.  Unfortunately for me, it was miss. The shacking in my house was not that bad, but I was hoping this would stop the shaking and lessen the noise.  nope.  the vibration and noise only got worse, a LOT worse.  We left it on for a few weeks and tried moving the washer around, but it did not help at all.\nnow i guess i have to toss them.  If you give them a try - save your packaging so you can return it if it doesn't work for you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 783, "id": 410366, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 132, "len_tokens": 147, "text": "As a single guy who spends a lot of time in my home office, it is great to have an option to keep my drinks and food handy. This refrigerator is larger than I expected and holds more than I thought. I like that it can keep my salads handy and my drinks and bottled water fit well in the door.\n\nIf you are looking for something for your apartment or as an extra addition to your home, I highly recommend this. I can see it being an asset for parents too that are looking for some where to keep their baby food, teething rings and more.\n\nAffordable, roomy yet stays out of the way, I think Hisense has created something that will be a benefit to your home or office easily.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 784, "id": 349004, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 106, "len_tokens": 129, "text": "Ordered a two pack a few months ago. First filter was fine. Replaced with second from pack after 3 months and no water flow. Like the filter is clogged. Amazon was nice enough to replace with another two pack which I received today. Both filters in this pack have nearly zero water flow. Trying to flush 4 gallons thru the filter would take four hours. Looking for the old Pur filters. Never had an issue with them.\n\n5/4/16  We just discovered the housing on our fridge is bad.  That was probably the cause of the filters not working properly.  Not sure until we try them again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 785, "id": 32955, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 135, "len_tokens": 159, "text": "I've had these quite a few months now and have really put them to the test as I cook at home quite a bit and I'm a pretty messy chef! These look really nice still, and so far have been easy to just wipe out without any staining or stuck on burnt bits that have dripped down from a boiling over pot or slapping-grease frying pan. They make a lot of difference in the appearance of your stove-top range and give the kitchen an over-all cleaner and neater look. They're very shiny black, sort of enameled looking and fit my range well. I've only soaked them twice for about 30 minutes as usually wiping them out with a damp cloth usually gets them clean. I'm pleased with my purchase and would recommend these to others.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 786, "id": 288621, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 101, "len_tokens": 117, "text": "These were for a GE Profile refrigerator replacing the GE MWF. The first one installed produced a slight dribble of water from the dispenser while sounding like the filter was going to burst. The second one works significantly better but is still much slower than any other filter I have used (I've tried at least half a dozen different manufacturers). It is no where near the 0.5gal/min advertised. I contacted the company and they refunded me the cost for one of the filters. I decided to keep the second filter despite the slow flow rate. I wouldn't buy these again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 787, "id": 38516, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 115, "len_tokens": 129, "text": "This is the correct filter for my humidifier. With that being said the choice in packaging for this product sucks. Sending a filter that is suppose to be round in a flat box is a horrible decision. It basically makes proper installation of this filter impossible. I got the thing to work and serve its purpose, but i know that since it is not perfectly round that the plastic molding is designed for, it is not installed correctly. If this thing is going to be advertised as the exact replacement for the MA0800 humidifier, then you need to change the way it is packaged. Otherwise this is just a generic universal filter in my opinion.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 788, "id": 111011, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 132, "len_tokens": 159, "text": "Bought this set at sears. Chose maytag for the name however I failed to look up reviews first. Big mistake because if I had I would have found out what a piece of crap it was before we spent $ in it. After the first 3 months the rubber gasket started shredding. We would find grey rubber all over our clothes which didn't come out then it started putting holes into them. The gasket finally shredded completely off. Between the two we've lost several items of clothes. Also the clothes smell musty and unclean. VERY disappointed in this washer and will never buy another like it. So now I'm off to buy another new washer the second in less than 2 years. Guarantee it won't be a maytag or a front loader.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 789, "id": 212968, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 162, "len_tokens": 175, "text": "updated review/ the part shown online is not the same as the one you will receive in fact you will not be getting an LG part. the design differences make it impossible to install. I reordered through another seller and although it cost nearly twice as much it was a genuine LG part and it fit perfectly. I should have read all reviews before buying. Since there are a few design differences, it does not exactly match the one we took out. To top that off we would have no way of knowing who manufactured it or what brand it is as there is not a single letter or number on it anywhere. Our old part has imprinted information as to where it is manufactured and by whom. So for amazon to request you contact them if you receive a different brand ....how would you know? As to whether it works we are still waiting on another part to run the washer.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 790, "id": 534459, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 117, "len_tokens": 158, "text": "Arrived today right on time, but I'm super disappointed and will be returning this.  I expected a pair as per the picture implies, and as per the manufacturer's description of the part #.  (WR12X869)  Instead, I only received one handle.\n\nAdditionally, it is hard plastic instead of the softer/padded original.  I would have lived with this if 2 had been delivered, as the only one I REALLY need to replace is the fridge side, not the freezer side.  However, I'm not going to live with 1 hard and 1 padded....especially since I paid for a pair.\n\nThis is the only time Amazon Prime has ever let me down.  I'm going to return and try ordering elsewhere.  Bummer!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 791, "id": 181648, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 92, "len_tokens": 116, "text": "The first thing we noticed was that the burners did not heat as much as our older (non-GE) product. Next, we found it is hard to clean. The grills have a lot of angled surfaces and take awhile to hit thoroughly with the scrub sponge. Also, to clean the cooktop you need to remove the knobs and burner covers. Quite a chore! Last, and least acceptable, we had to burners break after only two months. They became very hard to twist and one of the knobs broke (internally) while twisting. Don't buy!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 792, "id": 272751, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 95, "len_tokens": 116, "text": "First of all light at back !should be at front\nSecond thing the size of air exhaust pipe was missing. Hard to find the size 6 inches to convert into 4 inches to connect existing pipe\nThird the size of  stainless steel metal is too less and visible exhaust hose , needed extra piece to cover ceiling\nThe most important thing this is not same model as described here they sent me similar product model H700 series instead of\nModelS307H-75.  There is no where mention the CFM in booklet.  I am going to return the product", "label": 0}
{"sid": 793, "id": 189722, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 114, "text": "A great find to show the ambient temperature AND moister level of your guitars while in the case, or hanging on the wall! I bought it because I have a Martin acoustic guitar with a crack just under the pick-guard. I'm pretty sure this is due to sitting in my trunk, in August, while waiting for the stage to be completed and last-minute details to be worked out. This caused a delay of almost four hours while the temperature soared to 101 degrees! This also reminded me of why I don't like to play outside gigs in the summer months.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 794, "id": 260838, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 97, "len_tokens": 116, "text": "I am happy with this product,works well looks nice the read out is simple and looks classy. I had looked at models with bolder LED read outs, $ 150.00 dollars more but I was concerned with power surges knocking out the circuit board. You need to be careful with the vent stack it can scratch easily. It isn't quite. The two 20 watt lights in the back bottom of the unit are bright and swivel nice.  We have had the unit for  a month now and very pleased. I have always had great experience with Amazon.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 795, "id": 105826, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 119, "text": "This fan did the trick way too much power as soon as I opened the door to my fridge I was swept away to a mountain top somewhere in the alps , as I looked out over the summit I realized this wasn't going to be as easy as just grabbing my cold beer and watching the game. This s*** just got real. I hiked down the mountain to a small town got a cab to the airport bought a ticket back home.ps missed the game. Wouldn't recommend unless you like being taken from your home and dumped on a random mountain every damn time you open your fridge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 796, "id": 258831, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 119, "text": "I was surprised at the cost of the genuine Samsung water filter and so I bought a generic replacement at Home Depot. I bought a set of two that cost as much as one genuine one. Bad move on my part. The Home Depot ones lowered the water pressure and then it got progressively worse. I couldn't use it anymore and so when to Amazon for better quality ones.\n\nThe reviewers for this set recommended it because it maintained a strong water pressure. And because that was my problem, I bought this set. I must agree with others that my water pressure is back. So far so good!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 797, "id": 53483, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "The line from my sink to the ice maker/water line runs down through a crawl space.  When a rodent chewed through a plastic line, I replaced it with this one.  I just pulled the new one through the crawl space from above by tying the old one to the new.  For the money, this one is hardly more expensive than the plastic, and it a way higher quality.\n\nWhen pulling the refrigerator out for servicing, I can't imagine having the easy to crimp plastic line any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 798, "id": 38992, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 96, "len_tokens": 117, "text": "I love this kegerator. Only thing that could be improved would be the instructions, very poor. The unit came with a lot of extra parts, but they don't tell you they are extra. Had trouble getting my first keg in also. The plastic part the keg sits on has to be pushed inside all the way or the door won't shut. Easy once you figure it out (1/2 hour screwing with it). Makes a little noise when the compressor comes on, but over all, this is a great deal for the money. I love it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 799, "id": 9613, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 119, "text": "I buy four sets of these every year for winter.  Yes, it seems pricier in the long run to keep buying filters instead of humidifiers that don't have filters, but I've ended up just throwing non-filter humidifiers away from the icky water build-up.  And I love the humidifier.  Our house is very dry and my son tends to get bloody noses, so the humidifier runs 24-7.  I change the filters about every 6 weeks.  Never had a problem with these.  I'll be buying four more next winter.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 800, "id": 426455, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 113, "text": "Ordered this for my Samsung fridge model RS25J500DSR Don't buy leaks all over the place Don't be cheap get an original if you go to Samsung factory outlet. com you can get your filter and at a cheaper price original I got mine for 24.95 still waiting for it and plus it has a 30 day money back guarantee customer service is awesome so now I have to waste time to return this filter and plus they make you pay for shipping to return it just so you know. hope this was helpful never again will I buy generic.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 801, "id": 148917, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 88, "len_tokens": 171, "text": "This dishwasher is amazing! Easy set up, washes dishes and dries them. Everything is spotlessly clean! It's quiet and I had no problems with leaks. I purchased it a few months ago and so far, so good. It leave my dishes clean and visually it looks good. The only downfall is that my large dishes do not fit in it, but I do not mind because they are easy to clean.\n\nI was comparing this dishwasher and the following\nhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NK21MM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005NK21MM&linkCode=as2&tag=civcikdx-20&linkId=NQVS75KNU25BJDIS\n\nI decided to go with Danby :)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 802, "id": 208626, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 90, "len_tokens": 114, "text": "This was just what we needed for our LG washer.  (Model WM2350HWC) Since the only function of this device is to keep your door partially open (unless you completely close it) in order to prevent mildew, and we keep the door open anyway, we didn't really even need it, but  it was nice to have.  (also the part came with a sort of note of apology from LG that we needed this part, acknowledging the fact that they were sorry the original part  broke, which was kind of refreshingly honest.)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 803, "id": 468665, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 80, "len_tokens": 107, "text": "I was worried about CO2 levels in my basement office. Turns out they levels are fine, but there is some fluctuation. 400ppm with the windows in the house open, up to a max of about 950ppm when the windows are closed and I'm running around.\n\nIn the dark, I noticed that it shines an internal light every once in a while. Don't know if that's for sensing CO2 or relative humidity. Doesn't really bother me. A very useful, unobtrusive device.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 804, "id": 64030, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 104, "len_tokens": 128, "text": "I wouldn't buy it again.  Arrived with two of the four corners bent due to poor packaging.  The vent flap doesn't seat firmly on the body of the vent cap and can't be adjusted to do so (the thin metal flap appears to be sprung)..  The bird screen is simply wedged in and popped out when I touched it.  Any bird or squirrel would have little trouble pushing it out of the way.  The metal is light gauge but serviceable.  The finish is good and is the only outstanding feature.  All in all, barely serviceable .  There must be better products out there.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 805, "id": 395167, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 104, "len_tokens": 130, "text": "Did not receive a discount, honest purchaser who paid full price and I'll be bluntly honest.  This is a complete waste of money.  It worked for approximately 6 months and then, it magically started forming a massive block of ice on the coils that will not break apart and the unit won't work at all.  No ice produces except this huge iceburg too large for the machine to operate.  Epic FAIL.  Run, and find another ice machine to purchase.  Unless you'd like to slowly start re-icing the Arctic this is not the machine you want.  Do NOT waste your money on this tremendous disappointment.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 806, "id": 388583, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 124, "len_tokens": 141, "text": "I bought this ice maker for my daughter who is away at college. The reviews were awesome and she was thrilled to receive it as a Christmas gift. She took it back to school. It worked three days and stopped working. She kept getting a water level error. She was not able to get the machine to work in spite of trying everything suggested, including resetting, unplugging etc. Those suggestions came from fellow Amazon customers. The customer service contact information is not very clear on the instruction pamphlet. Sadly, my daughter will be lugging this very heavy machine to the UPS store to return it tomorrow. This must be some sort of glitch in the machine. A few people have mentioned the same problem.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 807, "id": 212118, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 93, "len_tokens": 111, "text": "The part failed after about one year. As other reviewer said, I believe this was not a genuine LG part. Also another reviewer mentioned, the impeller tines were worn, and impeller eventually stripped off shaft. I suspect the tines are wearing against casing causing the motor to work harder than expected. When pulling it out to replace again, the impeller fell off and o-ring was loose so probably water also got into motor. I purchased a new part from repairclinic and it was clearly marked LG, and it runs much quieter as well.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 808, "id": 460844, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 137, "len_tokens": 169, "text": "This pump was a replacement for my WFK2401UC Bosch front-load washer that I purchased new in 2001.  The old pump started jamming up and had been noisy for quite some time.\n\nReplacement was relatively easy - my suggestion is to remove the electric drum drive motor and belt as a first step once the back cover is off of the washer in order to access all of the hose clamps more easily.\n\nThis new pump is nearly identical to the original.  My washer pump is now quiet and reliable again!\n\nMy understanding is that this pump has multiple applications - clothes washers, dish washers, etc.  Rest assured, if it is the one specified, this is a good one.  Also, Amazon's price was about average.  Some places had it for cheaper, but made up in price through shipping.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 809, "id": 108166, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 171, "len_tokens": 183, "text": "My order arrived with the wrong instructions and missing parts. Luckily they have the instructions on their website for download, but as far as the missing parts I called and explained the situation and the person said they would ship out the missing parts right away. I waiting 10 days and the parts never showed up so I called again. They said the parts were shipping out that day, so either my initial request was never placed OR they are ridiculously slow to fix their mistakes. Either way I was not impressed and I had to ask them to expedite the shipping since I had already been waiting 10 days and I wanted everything hooked up by Christmas. Little advice Beverage Factory when you ship out a screwed up order when the customer calls you should do whatever it takes to to fix the issue as quickly as possible. As far as the actual product it is good and I am very glad I ordered the kit with the drip trays.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 810, "id": 316207, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 145, "len_tokens": 192, "text": "I've had company since May 2017.  With continuous eating and drinking, my silver is constantly used.  Before long, the basket that came with the Frigidaire automatic dishwasher was filled up but the rest of the dishwasher wasn't.  I don't  \"crowd\" spoons, forks, etc. and want it spacious so tableware is washed/rinsed well during the different cycles.  I was a little unsure if this GE silverware basket would fit.  The reviews were good so I gave it a try.  Am so glad I did because it fit right in the last row.  With the 2 baskets I can now put spoons and forks, large and small, in their own compartment and have compartments left for serving pieces.  In the end, it saves me time getting it out of the dishwasher and putting everything in the place where they belong.  I recommend this for a busy household.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 811, "id": 296808, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 106, "len_tokens": 141, "text": "After 6 months, the washer stopped working..  they returned me a new item and I paid shipping as I had not bought the warranty.  Please buy the warranty...will be a fantastic investment. I've had my new one for almost 8 mos.  works like a charm.  love this machine.  I use it everyday then hang my clothes to dry.  15 minute cycle to wash then about 5 minute I add water to the spinner to rinse out..then 3 minutes to spin.  Excellent investment,  has saved me over $40/month in laundering. I wash jeans, towels, standard bed sheets (one at a time). Plus all my other stuff.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 812, "id": 323799, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 143, "len_tokens": 173, "text": "I looked for a long time to find the right beverage fridge and I'm really happy with this purchase. There aren't many 17\" wide glass door fridges, and I do think this is the best option for the price. I use it at a retail store and wanted something display and sell beverages. I think it's beautiful. It was really well packaged and arrived in perfect condition. The only complaint I have is the wire shelves. I would imagine a 12 oz. can is pretty stable on these shelves, and to be fair it is advertised as a can beverage holder, but since I was loading it up with tall and unstable glass bottles I found them to be pretty inadequate. I ended up putting some 3/16\" thick 11\" x 17\" plexiglass over the wires shelves and it works great and looks nice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 813, "id": 94837, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 84, "len_tokens": 103, "text": "These hoses are great.  The 6 foot length is longer than typical washing machine hoses, which allowed me to get my machines where I wanted them.  They included 4 rubber washers for drip free fittings.  The brass ends seemed very high quality and threaded perfectly on to the steel water hook ups as well as the plastic threads on the machine.  These hoses look good, work great, are a good price, shipped fast, and are backed by stellar Amazon customer service.  Look no further.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 814, "id": 486, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 95, "len_tokens": 110, "text": "The shipment arrived quickly, but the 2 filters I ordered are not anything like the genuine Holmes HWF65 as far as their ability to wick the water from bottom to top of the filter. Turning the filter upside down so the whole surface is wet helps for maybe an hour before the filter dries out again. I bought a Holmes HWF65 locally to compare it and it works as it should with the whole filter remains wet bottom to top making the humidifier work properly. As a result, I gave the 2 filters a toss.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 815, "id": 230665, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 142, "len_tokens": 163, "text": "I am completely satisfied with this ice maker.\n\nItem exactly as described. Shipping was very fast. I installed it in a Whirlpool refrigerator. I swapped the metal wire loop (the thing that measures how much ice in bucket) from the old unit because the old seemed to fit better with the ice bucket. I also had to cut a little hole in a plastic piece to allow the water spout to fit. That piece must be made for multiple applications where some need the cutout and some do not. It has an outline indicating where to cut it.\n\nBased on some other reviews here, I knew not to expect it to start immediately. When I installed it, it didn't do anything right away. It filled the tray with water about 2 hours later and has been pumping out ice regularly since then.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 816, "id": 378801, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 143, "len_tokens": 172, "text": "I guess it's normal that these only last about 5 years before they get brittle. I've been working around a couple large holes on the bottom- using those slots for bigger things like whisks and ice cream scoops haha! Today I dropped a fork, handle down, from no more than 5 inches and it broke right through! It's literally CRUMBLING. There are only a couple safe spots left for the usual flatware and I'm worried they won't last long so I'm ordering this. My dishwasher is 7 years old I hope it fits, color aside, this one looks very similar. I guess they can only be baked through the drying part of the cycle so many times? In the mean time I'll have to run smaller loads and flip the lids down and stick things in the lid holes to hold them up.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 817, "id": 444504, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 137, "text": "Fast delivery, packaged well, and easy to install. Manual for our Samsung suggested DA29-00020B, and this fit perfectly. Our filter replacement was a few months past due. The first gallon of water was a bit cloudy and the pressure was spotty. By the 2nd gallon, the pressure was steady and fast and the water was clear. I ran a 3rd gallon just because I waited too long to replace. The water tastes great and is clear. No issues so far and we use it a lot! First time purchasing this, anxious to see if it will last 12 months instead of 6. If so, I'll reorder this again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 818, "id": 242702, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 84, "len_tokens": 102, "text": "Don't take out the old one and dispose of any parts before you get the new unit.  I had to use the existing electrical harness.  It was a snug fit and pulled free when I first installed it.  Found out when there was no ice the next day.  Pulled the ice maker again, lightly pried the tab up on the top of the harness connection so it would snap more snugly into the new unit.  Reinstalled it and now I've got plenty of ice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 819, "id": 170910, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 98, "len_tokens": 121, "text": "Less than half the price of anything available locally.\nPrime delivered even faster than promised.  Works perfectly, dishwasher is cleaning again!\nFit well: hint, screw the mounting screw into the new piece BEFORE trying to actually mount it.\nThe screw hole did not seem to be threaded, but worked securely after I 'cleared' the threads.  Solved my struggles in cramped space under the machine when screw initially would not work.  Was not cross-threaded, don't know what the problem was, but minor glitch in terms of all the money saved and the glory of machine cleaning mountains of dishes!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 820, "id": 477725, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 112, "len_tokens": 133, "text": "Fits perfectly!\n\nI bought this refrigerator used and put an ice maker in it, with the proper catch receptacle. Without a shelf, the auto shut-off on the ice maker had to be set manually. Kenmore listed no part number for the full shelf and schematics showed a small four-legged free-standing shelf (which looked pretty flimsy).\n\nThank you, Amazon, for listing this in the related items section! I can organize my freezer so much better with two levels and with the shelf set in the lower holes the ice maker is at just the right level for the auto shut-off to be engaged.\n\nI hope this helps someone else in my position.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 821, "id": 308478, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 151, "len_tokens": 176, "text": "Love this bag!\nI had to pack it the afternoon before I was going to use it and everything was still cool the next morning.\nWe had something leak inside the bag and none of it came through the bag.\n I put around 15 juice boxes, 10 small powerades a gallon size ziplock bag packed tight with snacks and a couple of plastic containers along with a good sized ice pack.\nI was also able to fit a couple of child harnesses, diapers, 3 small battery operated fans, wallet and probably a few other things in the outside pocket and was still able to snap it.\nPacked full the way I had it, it barely fit into the bottom basket of our double  stroller. It was also heavy enough that it made the stroller basket come open a few times. It's really cute. You would never think it was a cooler.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 822, "id": 155293, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 111, "len_tokens": 130, "text": "This part failed after four months of normal use.  Needless to say I did not get a replacement from here.  I believe these could be counterfeit parts labeled as whirlpool.  The new one that I bought to replace this failed unit was different.  It had the part number and the FSP label stamped into the metal frame of this heating element.  The one  I bought here had no stampings or part identification on the part itself.  I would guess the part offered here is a cheap copy using a counterfeit box to appear as OEM.\nBuy at your own risk and don't expect this to last more than a few months.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 823, "id": 104994, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 90, "len_tokens": 104, "text": "The adhesive lasted all of about 2 months at which point they just fell off. I followed the installation steps exactly (pre-clean, adhesion, etc). I built a $75k custom kitchen by myself so installing these clips correctly was well within my skill set (just for those who may discredit my ability to follow directions). I bought these to save myself a little bit of time and effort. When it was all said and done I had to mount the dishwasher they way it should have been...without these clips.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 824, "id": 288684, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 134, "text": "Love this washing machine!  I have had it since Oct. 2017 & it's such a good little helper!  You just have to get used to doing smaller loads.  There are features I wish it had, but it is wonderful as is.  I wish there was a volume button for the beeping to turn it down or change it to a ring instead.  The only cycle you can specifically select the Wash/Rinse/Spin is the Heavy mode. This feature should at least be also available for the Normal mode.  If you will be moving it a lot I would recommend you buy the dolly for it which Amazon also sells.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 825, "id": 468697, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 92, "len_tokens": 112, "text": "I've seen a lot of negative reviews and felt I need to add mine since we've had an awesome experience with ours. We've owned it now for 2.5 years and never had a problem.\n* Rollers work great\n* Dishes always come out clean and we've never had to rewash. We use the little packets.\n* It's pretty quit.\n\nThe only issue we've had is that my daughter broke a roller when she fell into it recently. The part is readily available and we were good to again in a few days.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 826, "id": 503231, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 89, "len_tokens": 113, "text": "The information I had read online said that all Frigidaire evaporator fans were the same.  That information was woefully incorrect.  However, it's not the seller's fault, it's the fault of that guy who wrote that original article I read.  I am hunting him down now.\n\nThis fan did not fit my refrigerator, but it did work.  I brought it to a local appliance shop to see if there was a 3 to 4 pin converter or something I could find, and they ran a test on it for me.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 827, "id": 465523, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 104, "len_tokens": 117, "text": "I bought the stacking washer and dryer since I don't have a lot of room - we are a family of 3.\nFor some time I thought the dryer was faulty as many other reviewers have reported. I found out that my dryer vent was at fault. It seems as though the vent should be at the same height or lower than the machine hose outlet - mine was venting straight up. To test, pull off the hose and see if your dryer works the way it should. Mine did.\nNow that the venting is correct the dryer works like a champ. Love it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 828, "id": 107885, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 90, "len_tokens": 107, "text": "Very impressed. I'm NOT a handy person at all, but once I had the proper tools (I needed to buy the correct sized drill bits) and got the CO2 tank filled at a local brewery, this all went together in less than 15 minutes and to date has worked flawlessly. It did take a few minutes adjusting the valve pressure, but once set, the beer was flowing properly. My first kegerator! And the simplicity of it all makes me ask how come it took me so long to do this.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 829, "id": 78495, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 95, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "First I tried another knock off brand and ordered one thing and got another. So, I bit the bullet and ordered the OEM filters as it was time to replace the two filters for our two ice makers. Yes they work and have no complaints, other than the price made me look at other alternatives. It is my hope the other alternative gets better staffing who pull stock and become my go to filter company? I will try one more time to order the \"alternative\" filters six months from now. Hope they get it right?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 830, "id": 57937, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 94, "len_tokens": 111, "text": "My dryer vent had two turns and exited out the roof. So I headed for the attic with the drill and vent cleaner in hand.  After a short trial, I determined it was best to add each extension as it snaked down the pipe.  You wouldn't believe the lint that the vacuum pulled out at the other end!  It worked just like advertised, no mess flying around, and it took just a few minutes.  I then used the brush to clean every orifice around the dryer filter and drum.\n\nThanks for a great product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 831, "id": 156490, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 85, "len_tokens": 103, "text": "Am I glad I got this kit.  Not only any kit.  But an OE kit.  I kept this as a reserve since my ice maker was giving me the fits no not knowing when to produce ice or not.  Finally I decided to just replace the sensor side (small part) since it is easier to replace.  And I hit the jackpot.  Thwas the problem all this time.  I will keep the main brain since I could never tell when I might decide to replace them.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 832, "id": 481166, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 120, "len_tokens": 159, "text": "This is the third Whirlpool dishwasher that I have had fail in the last 3 years!  This one failed exactly one month after the warranty expired (Whirlpool didn't even consider extended a courtesy to a loyal customer), the one before that lasted 2 years, the one before that 10 years.\n\nWhirpool seems to be in a steep decline in overall quality. I manage rental units and repair/replace dishwashers and appliances all the time, but these newest Whirlpool models are unsatisfactory and unreliable. The no frills, cheap off-brand dishwashers last far longer with no problems.\n\nFor years Whirlpool was my \"go to\" brand for major appliances, but after this series of failures I will be looking for a more reliable brand.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 833, "id": 151937, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 120, "len_tokens": 154, "text": "I was nervous when I found this because I bought it for a Kenmore washer. (Model #: 110.49962 603)  and on Sears Direct the same part number (part# 8183202) is listed for $130 where this totaled out to $68. I figured it would fit but the description doesn't mention it fitting Kenmore. Either way, got the item within a week, and it was an exact fit. I was upset to begin with because only a tiny piece that connects to the hinge pin broke off on the original and I couldn't solder it back on. I am very happy I found this listing as this is the cheapest I have found. Even RepairClinic is also about $20-25 more before shipping.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 834, "id": 511838, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 142, "len_tokens": 171, "text": "The washing machine I received is apiece of junk. The display doesn't work properly and after less than a year from date of purchase the mechanism which causes the drum to spin is broke. Worse, even though it is still within warranty, Electrolux can't get anyone out here to service it. They did, however try to sell me an extended warranty for a couple hundred bucks...The service company they contracted with refused the dispatch. I paid $1600 for the combo and now they're saying that they will try to have someone identified within three days who will service it. Not 'service  it within three days - identify someone who can. What kind of support id that? When/if they 'identify' a service provider who knows how far out their schedule goes. Poor equipment, poor service. I would NOT recommend buying this washing machine.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 835, "id": 29290, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 101, "len_tokens": 120, "text": "My cutting boards were a pain in the neck to store. Some of them are too large for my cabinets, so I had them in two different places. I'm an organization fanatic, so that alone was driving me crazy! Then I purchased these and, problem solved. I purchased two 3-packs and installed two of the rods spaced apart, for each board, which worked perfectly. Now I can keep my cutting boards out of the way and separated from each other at the same time, which is important to me since I have different boards for different things (meat, vegetables, etc.).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 836, "id": 403736, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 82, "len_tokens": 104, "text": "Quick delivery. Easy to read, visual very clear.  I bought this product because for some reason my thermostat and ambient house temperature seem to live on two different planets. Having this on hand tells me that, yes, I am shivering because my home temp is 67 degrees, not the 73 as noted on the thermostat.  BTW, my brandy new thermostat is as much in error as the old.  Who, with any brains, locates a thermostat behind a closed door in a closet???", "label": 1}
{"sid": 837, "id": 182414, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 90, "len_tokens": 109, "text": "Do NOT purchase. Exactly a year after we bought this unit, it stopped working and we've had to call someone to look it over. The result according to him:\n\"This is a terrible product that needs to be recalled as they have design and / or manufacturing issues. In this case, the flame defector is defective and the metal falling on the ignitor, breaking it\".\nOf course, the flame deflector takes about a year to break the ignitor which is just past the warranty period.\n\nUnacceptable for a $2500 product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 838, "id": 130869, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 116, "len_tokens": 128, "text": "Do not waste your money on this filter. It is supposed to be a brand name OEM filter but mine just stopped working right after the thirty day return period. It fit well but in less than a month it went from working to barely dispensing any water at all. That never happens if I buy these filters from Lowes or Home Depot. in that case they last close to 6 months. My house also has a whole home carbon filtration system in the garage so there is no way a filter should get clogged in a month. Would never buy these again when they cost the same at Lowes and you know they are authentic.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 839, "id": 1976, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 118, "len_tokens": 153, "text": "Purchased this vent in 2012, it works as advertized and I was satisfied with the product until now.  It requires cleaning about every 6 months, which is not a big problem, but be aware it will clog up.  However after being installed for only 2 years, the plastic became very brittle, and while trying to clean it, the unit shattered into about 20 pieces.  It is a good product if you don't mind replacing it every 2 years.  The sun's UV rays have migrated the plasticizers out of the base plastic, leaving it extremely brittle.  However, I will not replace it with any plastic vent.  I purchased a galvanized vent to replace it, which will last much longer.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 840, "id": 280820, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 134, "len_tokens": 159, "text": "So, this tool by itself is friggin' amazing! It's been almost a year now that my wife has been complaining that the dryer isn't doing it's job very well. I told my wife that the vent is most likely clogged. She was very skeptical when I suggested it was clogged and that I could clean it...\n\nThe pictures by the vent show the aftermath of what I could get with just the brush. I'm pretty certain I pushed a clog up to the top of my vent (my dryer vents to the roof). I didn't use a drill, just my two hands. I would bet if you know there is a clog, using a drill would make it even more amazing. Simply put, I would bet this saved my house from a fire.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 841, "id": 102885, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 153, "len_tokens": 169, "text": "I bought this with intentions to replace my old Beverage center as the one I'm currently using is really old, and the door is about to fall off. When this one showed up on an amazing sale. However, when I got this one, we were going to keep it in the garage until we could get a place for it in the house. When we plugged it in the center ran really hot to the touch. To the point we were concerned about if it was safe to use. I returned it for a refund because I refused to chance a second one. I should have done more research on the company and product before I bought it because among further investigation I've found really disappointing results and reviews about the product and company themselves. I typically know better than to just be dazzled by a sale price, but that's what happened here.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 842, "id": 201808, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 130, "len_tokens": 151, "text": "This LG Electronics filter is really an A-1 filter.  The water from my refrigerator has such a refreshing taste, tastes better than bottled water.  I actually save my bottles and refill them from the refrigerator because the water taste so good (not kidding).  When we bought the refrigerator and ordered the filter, I thought it would be like my other refrigerator where the water wasn't so gracious, but that refrigerator had been around for a while so I won't knock it.  I will see years down the road, but its been going on three years and the filters have been producing this nice tasting water and where I live I don't think we have the best water, but the filer is working it.  So I am happy :).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 843, "id": 388552, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 129, "len_tokens": 157, "text": "I like it.  Only 4 stars because nothing beats an ice maker installed in your freezer.  VERY easy to use.  Hard working machine.  Takes up counter space ... make sure you have room.  I like the ice it makes; shape, size good for drinks.  My concern was the ice melting together and not staying in single pieces like it does in a freezer.  This happens a little but easily remedied with the ice scoop provided.  Turned out to be non issue.  The way I use it .... turn it on while I'm home once a day for a couple hours and dump it into the freezer when I hear new cubes are made until the tray is full.  I like it, it solved our problem and would recommend it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 844, "id": 495, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 105, "len_tokens": 140, "text": "I purchased two of these for my Holmes humidifier.  Seller was good, but product is bad.\n\nFirstly, the picture looks like the filter is surrounded by plastic.  The product in fact doesn't have the black surround, but a metallic wire frame instead.  After a few days of use, the water turned yellow, the metal is oxidized (I assume rust), and the filter is growing some white crusty stuff.  The water I used goes through a water softener and reverse-osmosis system so it's quite pure.\n\nI'll be discarding this and the second filter that I haven't opened.  It's priced low so it's not even worth returning.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 845, "id": 121892, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 149, "len_tokens": 191, "text": "I bought this awhile back for my kitchen renovation and finally installed it recently.\n\nPros:\n- Looks great, very minimal visual impact.\n- The fan blows HARD on high, and is easy to talk over on low.\n- Recirculating or vented installation options.\n- Not very hard to install.\n- Carbon filters to filter the air if you're recirculating.\n\nCons:\n- The LED lights are completely useless. I'll be looking into replacing them, but the glass makes it so the ceiling lights will light your work.\n- I've heard quieter range hoods.\n- Plastic sheetrock anchors? Really? Throw them out and screw this thing into studs/joists or it's going to fall on your stove and shatter.\n- The controls are a little weird. The power button doesn't turn it on, just off. Strange, but you get used to it fast.\n\nOverall it's great and we're happy with the purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 846, "id": 43421, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 120, "len_tokens": 141, "text": "I have used these for 3 winters.  They make a bid difference.  I have to fill them up every morning and every evening whenever the heater is running a lot.  It only takes a minute to do it though so I don't mind.  The difference it makes in the house was astonishing.  No more getting shocked from static electricity all winter long!\n\nWe were going through a new electric humidifier every other year due to the hard water.  I save money with these because I am no longer spending that money on expensive new humidifiers and I am not using any extra electricity.  They are much simpler to fill than the electric ones, which I also had to fill daily.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 847, "id": 468106, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 152, "len_tokens": 188, "text": "We have this oven and apparently the mother board broke in one of the ovens.  We contacted Dacor to replace it and they kept telling us that it was on back order.. this went on for 6 months!! Then we finally used another company to install a rebuilt mother board and they replaced it for over $500 within 2 weeks (after both ovens did not work!).\n  When we contacted Dacor first they said, send them the invoices which we did, leading us to believe they would give us a credit.. However, they did not do that and simply said it was on back order and they didn't know when it would be available.  Who ever heard of a company that cannot repair its own product?  It is absolutely ridiculous  and we would NEVER buy another Dacor product!!!\nShame on this company... overpriced products for the crappiest customer service we ever encountered!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 848, "id": 111862, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 128, "text": "Adorable little 'fridge', just know what you're paying for.\n\nI had no illusions that this was in no way going to cool/heat my beverage, as it's neither insulated nor does it have a particularly powerful cooling element. But as a desk ornament where you can place a can of soda to warm up slightly less quickly (which is about all that can be asked of this wee fridge) it's perfectly suited.\n\nThis version can switch to 'heat' beverages as well, though why this is even a feature is beyond me, since basically nothing other than a can of soda or a standard Red Bull can will fit inside.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 849, "id": 354077, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 118, "len_tokens": 136, "text": "I am happy with the filter that fits my Kaz humidifier which is more than several years old.  It is a little different from the ones i used to buy from the manufacturer, but it looks like it will be effective.  Instead of being a long  rectangle that fits in-between the supports in the base of the humidifier, this one is continuous, with some stretch in the fibers to allow you to fit it through the supports.  I just hope that it does not get too frayed taking it out and putting it back when I clean the humidifier weekly during the winter months when I use it.  One less star because i have not used it yet.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 850, "id": 445881, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 137, "len_tokens": 157, "text": "Bought these for my Mom to use in oven instead of aluminum foil after we had to replace baking element due to a burnt-out area that fried the aluminum foil underneath. These definitely work a lot better than the foil and are much safer. I feel better about her using these now, especially since she is in her eighties and on a budget. I know she cannot afford replacing the oven, or her home for that matter, and there is no way she could ever be replaced, so these helped take one less worry off my mind!\n\nNOTE: We did have to cut the item down to fit the inside of the oven, but that is better than them not being big enough. Also, I now use the leftover pieces as 'drop cloths' for my soldering gun.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 851, "id": 395104, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 95, "len_tokens": 122, "text": "This is the best ice maker. It makes ice very fast and it is very quiet.  It beeps at various tines, first when tray is full, it continues making ice and beeps after each new drop of ice until it almost overflowing.  Then it shuts off until enough ice melts and it will automatically start up again.  To start the machine just press start button until snowflake blinks, do the same to shut off, until snowflake stop blinking.  Instructions doesn't tell you this,  icemaker will also beep when water is low.  I love this icemaker.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 852, "id": 185183, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 91, "len_tokens": 116, "text": "AMAZING! Purchased this due to our home burning so I needed a dryer in our shed with the washer because it's only wired for 110 outlets for now only to use for towels,the other clothes was intended to hang on the line. But, you can use  this for all your small loads. It dried 3 towels,2 hand towels,3 washclothes in 30 minutes or so. It's perfect,just a little pricy for my situation but well worth it! It will also hang on the wall. 5 stars! Completely satisfied!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 853, "id": 409834, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 92, "len_tokens": 126, "text": "This water filter came literally within 2 days.  Packaging was excellent.  I HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.  They are clear and precise.  It's not as simple as taking it out of the box and installing it.  You should drop it in water for 15 mins as it is stated in the instructions.  The water quality isn't too bad either.  I can taste a difference, however my wife can't....This product was very easy to install, overall can't complain.  It's a good buy!  I got this at a discount for my honest review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 854, "id": 479965, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 134, "len_tokens": 158, "text": "I replaced the fan but what? the fan slides ever so slightly off the end of the shaft?  You really need to crank the screw down tightly without breaking the plastic to secure it to the dryer motor.  That's a really cheap, not great method to attach a fan I have to say.  After hearing the rubbing going on I discovered the fan had slid to the end of the shaft and was eating the teeth away on the sheet metal.  Nice.  After putting it back on, the fan and motor are purring quieter than ever.\n\nBy the way, the original fan had warped beyond reasonable planarity which is why I replaced it.  The only reason I can think this might happen would be due to excessive heat on the fan.  Terrible design really.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 855, "id": 51233, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 106, "text": "We are temporarily moving into a smaller place while we construct a new home and planned to stack our existing washer and dryer to fit in the space we will have available.  This did not take very long to install and actually took longer to remove our drawer stands.  Be cautious of the sharp edges with the metal slots on the back of the appliances while installing it.\n\nThe dryer has been stable while both were running, but I also chalk that up to making sure to level the washing machine on its intended place prior to installing this.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 856, "id": 39391, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 139, "text": "What you get: 2 x charcoal filter inserts, 4 x clips, instruction sheet complete with photographs.  These charcoal filter sheets DO NOT replace the plain metal filters.  These clip on to your existing filters to add an additional filtering/odor reducing layer.  They clip on to your filters with the included clips (2 per filter) and it is easy to follow along with the included instructions.  NOTE: if you want to replace your plain metal filters you will need to order a different item -- I can't help you there because I just clean them (the original NON CHARCOAL filters) with engine cleaner, soaking in soapy water, and then copious rinsing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 857, "id": 264690, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 170, "len_tokens": 197, "text": "Just installed this a couple weeks ago. Used the excellent review by one of the previous commenters to help avoid installation issues.\nMy Baffle Filters fit well... I did not experience the same fitment issues has mentioned in the other comment. Perhaps Kobe fixed this issue already.\n\"Quiet Mode\" is not very quiet. Unless you have trouble hearing or are in another room, it cannot be mistaken for being off.\nLighting could be a bit brighter but you have to keep in mind that the bulbs are energy efficient LEDs so that's a tradeoff I'm willing to accept.\nMy front burners are not directly/completely underneath the hood so it struggles to capture all the cooking fumes even on the high setting.\nI did have some issues mounting the hood to the cabinet that resulted in a few scratching on the front and side surface of the hood. Kind of bummed out about it. Might contact the manufacturer and ask if they would be willing to exchange for a new one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 858, "id": 128947, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 127, "text": "Conceptually this is perfect for my needs, but sadly I haven't been able to test it out.  For some reason something is misaligned and the rotating blade at the bottom that the water comes out of can't freely spin - it hits and gets stuck on the bottom of the cart (which has very little clearance to start with...it seems the blade arm fixture is tilted slightly to one side in my case)  That said, the strip of dishes the water actually seems to hit do get cleaned fairly well, so if I can get the darn thing fixed it'll probably be decent...for for now it's basically scrap...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 859, "id": 336851, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 84, "len_tokens": 110, "text": "These are the most flimsy filters I have ever bought.  I am so disappointed with this product.  Do not buy them.  They are not the real thing.  They didn't even come in the package that is shown.  They were in a plastic wrap.  I will not buy this product again and from this vendor.  Shame on you for advertising falsely!!!  After 3 days it was a limp as a kleenex.  That what it looked like when I opened the filter part of the humidifier.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 860, "id": 183146, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 103, "len_tokens": 123, "text": "This model has a defect in design that causes the heat to shut down unpredictably.  Impossible to maintain an even temperature, as the unit must be recycled to get the heat going again.\n\nThe 1st of these I purchased I returned for replacement as Fagor told me it had a \"defective sensor\". The replacement started behaving the same way in a few months.  Note a number of other comments here on the same problem.\n\nFagor customer service is very poor - they know about this problem by now, yet continue to sell a defective design. I am looking elsewhere for a dependable unit.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 861, "id": 136365, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 130, "len_tokens": 146, "text": "We purchased a new washer and dryer last month and found the flapper door in / behind the old vent hood had failed. When it came time for our yearly pest control inspection, I mentioned this to them and they installed this exact No-Pest Vent Hood and, I will say, it's marvelous. It has a wide lower lip on the round flapper lid that recesses slightly into the vent pipe in the wall and is held closed by a very small magnet which still allows for the door and hood to open when the dryer is expelling hot air but makes it virtually impossible for all but the craftiest of the craftiest pests to gain entry when there is no dryer activity. I think this is a very good product!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 862, "id": 182149, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 101, "len_tokens": 120, "text": "This fan is so reasonably priced you will assume it is cheap and flimsy, but it is heavy and solid and my contractor installed it with no problems. It looks amazing and you will spend 1/10th of what everybody spent in the magazines. I purchased the 30 inch. It is perfect in my contemporary kitchen and it is a solid functioning fan.  There is no way that I would go to the Furniture Mart and spend $3000 now. I purchased the one with the glass, because I wanted to keep the view to our backyard open as possible  it is great.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 863, "id": 69610, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 132, "text": "I bought this hose to replace the water in hose on a Haier portable washing machine, after the rubber hose that came with it exploded and flooded the bathroom. It's a vast improvement - even my husband, who doesn't really notice minor household changes, commented that it was a \"real upgrade.\" The rubber hose leaked when we used very hot tap water (it's scalding hot in our house), and this hose doesn't leak at all, even on the hottest temperatures. It's solidly made, and I am much more comfortable that it won't break and flood us out than I would be if I had purchased a manufacturer-provided replacement.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 864, "id": 326105, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 144, "len_tokens": 172, "text": "Last year our Frigidaire front loader washer (model ATF6000FS1) door lock broke and the washer couldn't utilize the spin cycle. We weren't sure if we would have to buy a new washer until we did some troubleshooting and discovered that the door lock was easily replaceable with the correct part. We searched on Amazon, found the part, and two days later, after watching a short YouTube video on the installation, had a good-as-new washer again! It was fairly easy to install after watching the video. I can't tell you how relieved we were to spend a small amount of money in order to have our washer work again. A year and a half later, it is still going strong. If you are having the same problem we had with our washer and this is the part you need, I would highly recommend purchasing it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 865, "id": 51968, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 107, "len_tokens": 117, "text": "It seemed that the newer reviews had  more positive opinions so  I rolled the dice on whether I would get the good ones or get the bad ones. What I received was two of them being functional but brittle and the other two were broke apart in a couple places. For whatever reason the glue that holds them together is failing.\nUsing a hot glue gun I glued the broken ones back together, then I ran a bead of glue across the op and the bottom and then on both sides. Now the humidifier is adding five  gallons of water a day into the air without incident.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 866, "id": 76802, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 88, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "They say this is oil rubbed bronze, but it's not.  It's way lighter.  Closer to the color of copper but a little darker.  I even called the manufacturer and asked them how dark or light the color was and they confirmed that it would be a dark oil rubbed bronze like the faucets you see in the store, dark brown with some copper like scratches in it.  Very disappointing because everything else seems well built and good quality and a good price, but the color doesn't match anything.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 867, "id": 144699, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 165, "len_tokens": 187, "text": "The fan hood is really great. I couldn't believe how much difference a higher quality fan could make in the kitchen. The low level lighting is appealing and makes a focal point to the kitchen in the night. the 3 fan speeds are very effective and the turbo boost is quite impressive. The four halogen lights can be turned up to be very bright... unfortunately I had to get the stainless cleaner out because the cooktop that it illuminated had more grime that I ever saw before!\n4 stars instead of 5 because the installation instructions were a little cryptic, and in some cases inaccurate. One point I need to make is to be sure it is installed level. My cabinets from where the old fan was removed, weren't level so it was quite difficult to get the fan to not rub against the lower side of the housing. I had to remove it and reinstall it to correct the unlevelness of the mounting surface.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 868, "id": 68496, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 133, "text": "I was one of the suckers that made the quick trip to my local hardware store to buy a dryer duct, like I had in years before. Unfortunately, the local \"Big Box\" store only sells the \"semi-rigid\" which will dent and break easier than you can with your thumb through a piece of tinfoil!\n\nThen I bought the \"Proflex\"perfect!! Open it slow, which you'll do if you've experienced any problems with a semi-rigid duct, and it will fit easily into place!!  The clamps, as others have previously said, are pretty worthless.  I used my old clamps which still work fine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 869, "id": 382054, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 165, "len_tokens": 194, "text": "So, there are a lot of non brand name options when it comes to the replacement filters for refrigerators, both in terms of water and the air filters like these.  And while there are some people that insist on buying the brand name from the refrigerator company because they think they can \"trust them more\", it's really just silly and you're paying extra for a name.  We tend to always buy the non-brand replacement water filters, as they cost less than half the price.  And the same is true when it comes to these air filters.\n\nThese are less expensive than the brand name filter, and they're basically the same thing!  They are almost identical in every way except for the packaging.  They're both filters, and they both last just as long as work just as well.  We have no problems with these, and the only thing they do is save us money.\n\nWe received a discount on these filters for our unbiased product evaluation.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 870, "id": 286406, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 93, "len_tokens": 110, "text": "I bought this as a replacement to my Samsung DA29-00003G refrigerator water filter.  Although the description clearly says it is a compatible replacement, it was obvious when I tried to use it that the grooves that hold it in placed where not designed like the original and it was not secure. I am sure that this has something to do withe the people who experienced leakage. I did not even trust it enough to leave it in. The price may be good, but design is not accurate. So I don't recommend this product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 871, "id": 5232, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 123, "len_tokens": 155, "text": "This item is not of the same quality as what I have ordered in the past, which is a better product -- Honeywell HAC-504AW Humidifier Wick Filter, Single Sold by: Amazon.com LLC. This one from Today's Concept shipped in a plastic bag and was kinda smushed flat when it arrived. The filter itself has a metal mesh frame to it, which rusted and discolored the filter (and put what into the air I don't know) material within just a couple days, even though every morning I take the filter out of the water to air-dry. I used it only a few days (supposed to be able to keep them for 30 days) before it looked too scary, and I just threw it out.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 872, "id": 214242, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 93, "len_tokens": 102, "text": "I overall really like this dryer, but I do not like how fast you have to replace the filters. I've had mine for only a month and a half and had to replace the filter twice already. They are cheap though so it definitely still beats going to the laundry mat. Also it is super close to the ground so be prepared to get on your hands and knees to get anything in and out of it. Overall very efficient machine and drys a lot faster than expected, which was a nice surprise.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 873, "id": 94652, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 113, "len_tokens": 137, "text": "After reading the reviews for this product and the equivalent Aqua-Pure product, I decided to buy one of each and do a side by side comparison. The first thing I noticed was that the Water Sentinel is made in USA, while the Aqua-Pure is made in Mexico. The Water Sentinel appears to be better constructed and heftier. It also includes 0-ring lubricant, which makes installation MUCH easier. After flushing a gallon of water through each, the taste test was pretty much the same, the Water Sentinel maybe a bit better. Considering that the Water Sentinel is about half the price (and did I mention MADE in USA), it certainly seems like a no-brainer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 874, "id": 284420, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 117, "len_tokens": 136, "text": "This ice maker broke shortly after the return policy expired.  I did not mistreat, or even move the machine for that matter, before it broke.  It just began making less and less ice until it stopped all together.  When it did make ice, the ice was very wet and had a tendency to stick together.  I was not very happy with the the ice that it did make when it was working but I figured that the ice was ok for the price I paid for the machine.  Now that the machine has stopped working altogether I am very dissappointed.  If I were you, I would save my money and look elsewhere for a higher quality product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 875, "id": 466596, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 96, "len_tokens": 115, "text": "I've had the Speed Queen washer and dryer for about six months and like them very much. I am writing about Speed Queen's amazing customer service. On Sun., I must not have secured the lint filter cover and found it tossing around with the clothes, broken. I emailed Speed Queen asking where I could buy a replacement. Mon. morning I received an email telling me it was in the mail. Today is Tues. and the new lint filter cover has been installed in my dryer. UNBELIEVABLE customer service, but isn't that the way it should be?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 876, "id": 245920, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 90, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "The plastic tube that attaches the sprayer arm to the basket broke on my current sprayer.  I purchased this arm kit as replacement. This kit is not complete as they do not include the piece of tubing that is needed to attach the sprayer to the basket.  I had to still go to the hardware store and no one sells just this piece that was broken.  I instead found a dishwasher parts/repair store open on Sunday and bought the piece needed.  This was a useless purchase and is going back.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 877, "id": 264452, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 103, "len_tokens": 116, "text": "I purchased this for an aging ise dispenser on the fridge at the office. the original part has gotten brittle and started breaking apart over time, which as you can imagine is not a good thing in an icemaker. This part from Amazon was roughly half the proice of what it cost locally and it came via prime in 2 days, which is about a week sooner than the local place claimed it would take them. It matched the original exactly and took less than 10 minutes to replace. We have 40+ people in our office and this replacement part has not failed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 878, "id": 483503, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 82, "len_tokens": 102, "text": "This is a very well designed and well thought out refrigerator. Without question, the nicest fridge I've ever owned.... with one problem. This unit was shipped from the factory with a non-functioning ice maker. After a month of trying to get it fixed, we're shipping it back to Mexico tomorrow. There's really no excuse for a company with a reputation like Electrolux to ship products that don't work. Too bad - we really like the design. But we'll be looking elsewhere now.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 879, "id": 518413, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 128, "len_tokens": 162, "text": "After owning this washer for 1.25 years, we grew tired of it's refusal to autobalance.\nIt was not like that in the beginning. It has gotthen worse over time. It now does this approximately 85 % of the time.\nCustomer service was contacted online. You cannot reply to the emails, which is annoying but besides the point.\nAfter 3 days of emails, I was instructed to call. After 10 minutes on hold, I was told I was loading incorrectly. Each type of clothing and fabric needs to be loaded separately. Towels with towels of similar size and fabric content. Jeans with jeans. Underwear with underwear. Etc.\nI do not want to spend my life doing laundry. I also think this is extremely wasteful of time, water, and electricity.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 880, "id": 466227, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 133, "len_tokens": 158, "text": "I bought an apartment 5 years ago that had this stove.  I have loved every day with it.  I am now moving and I was on line looking to see how much it would cost to get one installed my new house.  I was shocked by the negative reviews.  I have literally never had a single problem with my range.  Both the oven and the burners work flawlessly and it is possible to make very fine adjustments to temperature.  The oven temp is spot on.  I love the star-shaped burners. A tea kettle of water or a pot of water for pasta heats very quickly.  I think this is the perfect range for the person who enjoys cooking and has a relatively small space. The stove  top looks perfect after years of service.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 881, "id": 34645, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 88, "len_tokens": 115, "text": "My refrigerator was a larger distance from a usable water line than most applications, so I chose this longer PEX line. It installed easily using a 3/4\" drill bit to make the hole in the floor (the brass nut needs to pass through it too) and coaxial cable clips for running the water line along a joist. Super happy with it so far.\n\n--UPDATE 3/15/2017: My water line is still good and I also ordered/installed one for my mother-in-law. I really do trust this line to not leak.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 882, "id": 292990, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 118, "text": "I bought this to replace the OEM filter. Unfortunately, I could not get any flow out of it. I had prefilled it with water per the instructions. I put the old OEM filter back in and everything worked fine. I spent a good 15 minutes tinkering with this filter to try to get it to work. No luck. Amazon wouldn't let me return it so I got on their chat and they refunded me in full. Apparently, it's not a returnable item. Try at your own risk. At least Amazon will give you a refund if it doesn't work.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 883, "id": 381870, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 96, "len_tokens": 118, "text": "This is such a great product for touching up dishwasher racks or re-tipping racks with the rubber tips made by\nthis company. Be sure to sand off any rust before using. My Dremel works best for doing this. You must work\nquickly as the Goop thickens very fast once you open the bottle. I cover bottle with my rubber gloved finger\neach time I draw out the brush. The only thing wrong with my dishwasher was that the racks were rusted in several\nplaces, so, Goop has given me more time before replacing the whole dishwasher.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 884, "id": 464814, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 102, "len_tokens": 123, "text": "It is a suitable replacement if your rack is rusty, but it is not nearly a good or useful as the original rack.  As others have said, the handling of glasses is horrible.  This rack cannot hold classes as there are no recessed rows.  Also it can only hold smaller saucers.  So not larger saucers and normal size glasses have to be put into the lower rack where space is always a premium.\n\nAs others mention, these are also a grey plastic instead of OEM white, so accessories do not match.  Even new accessories are still white while the rack is grey.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 885, "id": 541650, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 156, "len_tokens": 179, "text": "First off, I really like the way this fridge looks. It is very sleek and attractive. I work for a designer accessories company, so style is a big thing for me. I use it mainly in my office for my lunch and my energy drinks. After a couple of my coworkers were victims of (admittedly hilarious) office pranks, I decided it was probably in my best interest to protect my lunch. I keep this fridge under my desk, and only a couple of coworkers even know that I have it. Both of them have asked where I got it, and plan to get their own as well. So far it is working really well for me, and it is really handy to not have to leave my desk when I am in the middle of a project to get a caffeine boost. Good product, does what I expect it to do, and looks cool. Very pleased.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 886, "id": 369338, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 93, "len_tokens": 109, "text": "I received the filter fairly quickly. Put it in my Vornado humidifier and my whole room smell like stinky sweat! I have to disinfect my room! Sent an e-mail to the seller complaining about it and received a response promptly stating that they carry 3 types of Vornado filters and the one they sent me was an AFTERMARKET. They resent me the original one in a few days. At least they admit what they did and try to fix it. Just wished they would have sent the real thing in the first place.....", "label": 0}
{"sid": 887, "id": 22675, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 91, "len_tokens": 102, "text": "There are a number of generic filter refills out there and they may be the same size as this one, but the problem comes trying to hook them up. The cheap one I bought at Walmart had a different female connector than the GE, making it useless. Of course, you cannot tell what type the opening is until you peel off the plastic, which you cannot do before buying it. I recommend saving yourself the hassle, spending a little more and knowing you will not have any problems for 6 months.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 888, "id": 461506, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 152, "len_tokens": 172, "text": "I installed this above-deck in a boat galley that was designed to use a standard apartment-sized refrigerator at the time it was built.  This one is a little narrower than the old one but only a few inches.  Any fridge should have adequate airflow around or over the coils on the back if it's going to be expected to work correctly and have a long life, especially if it's in a hot environment like a garage or a boat that sits unused with the fridge running but air conditioning off most days.  In the case of the boat, it had been built with fans that blow over the rear of the fridge and out a vent so expect to need the same thing if you put it in any enclosed space.  It doesn't seem too loud and it looks nice.  Time will tell if it lasts but it was a good price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 889, "id": 62462, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 123, "len_tokens": 149, "text": "I've had this converter in my dryer for two months now without any problems. I had it installed, so I can't comment on the ease or difficulty of installation. I'm happy with it, though I think $35 was too expensive for such a small and simple converter. Not that you have much choice; if you buy a gas dryer and have propane, you have to convert it, and often the manufacturer's overpriced part is your only option.\n\nAs some other reviewers have said, just because it's a GE part, doesn't mean it will fit all GE dryers. Use Amazon's \"Make sure this fits your model\" search box at the top of the product page to confirm that it will work with your dryer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 890, "id": 488427, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 116, "len_tokens": 125, "text": "This Dishwasher works very well at cleaning and drying the dishes, we absolutely love this unit, installation was a breeze since we where replacing an old dish washer that didn't work very well, I am knocking a star off the rating since for some reason some of the installation screws where missing along with a couple of caps were not in the package which is supposed to be included, we ended up going to Home Depot and bought the missing screws and the sales associate pulled the caps from a similar display model and let us have them, Thank you Home Depot.. If not for the missing parts this would have been a 5 star review", "label": 1}
{"sid": 891, "id": 332213, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 132, "len_tokens": 151, "text": "This is great.  I have been using a cup with water that after it froze, I put a quarter on top.  In case the power goes out and the freezer has issues the quarter dropping to the bottom will clue me in.\n\nThis is a much nicer option.  It ties to one of the shelf openings and after you allow the water to freeze you add the ball and screw on the top.  If you have a problem the ball will sink to the bottom and if it freezes you can easily tell that you had a problem because the ball will be stuck at the bottom.  Great way to tell you food thawed.\n\nJust add water to the fill line, let it freeze, add the ball and screw the top.  Done.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 892, "id": 317184, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 123, "text": "Zero stars for the product; 2 stars for the customer service. The refrigerator worked for 9 months and then quit.  After a lot of back and forth with Danby customer service, a new one showed up on our porch 3 months after the first one quit.  The second one lasted 3 weeks before it leaked a lot of a clear chemical fluid and stopped working.  Danby sent us a check for most of the purchase price.  We now have 2 useless refrigerators in our garage that will cost $38 each to be hauled away by the People's Republic of Seattle.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 893, "id": 560172, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 133, "len_tokens": 155, "text": "It was a Christmas gift and I was really happy with this product.  It wasn't damaged and it was in excellent condition.  It came with a set of pencils and instructions on how to sketch/shade the subject.  The boat scene was already printed and basically you follow the instructions to shade it in.  It's a great gift for someone who wants a challenge to the adult coloring books.  Or if they had some art experience and want to learn more about how to use the different pencils for drawing a picture.  I am a professional artist and I was pleased to give this as a gift to someone to learn how to sketch with pencils.  So, if I need to buy more art kits for someone, I'll come back to this company again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 894, "id": 148324, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 129, "len_tokens": 156, "text": "Used this to replace the pulley on my Cabrio dryer. The dryer was making a very loud and annoying squeal sound. The installation was incredibly easy. Most people can do this replacement with a few tools at home. If I recall, all I needed was a phillips screwdriver, 5/16 socket and about a 1/2 inch socket to remove the pulley. The old one had broken which caused the squealing. All together the installation took just under an hour and I took my time. Also, it will be much easier if you have an additional person helping you out as they can hold the dryer barrel up while you feed the belt throughout the pulley and motor.\n\nThis was an exact replacement and now the dryer sounds good as new!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 895, "id": 502946, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 112, "text": "if you forget and leave this machine open, all the water drains which means you can't soak anything. you can't change anything midcycle without cancelling the wash cycle and starting over. the locking lid means you have to stand and wait for the washer to stop completely if you need to add anything to it. i was so happy to get a new washer and this has been miserable. i hate it i hate it i hate it.. I regret buying this piece of garbage. All the \"features\" do is take control away from the operator. I hate it", "label": 0}
{"sid": 896, "id": 568357, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 86, "len_tokens": 112, "text": "Shopped around for a reasonable ice maker for my newly aquired 2002 Carver 42.  It had an old and cranky Isotherm that needed replacing.  I really didn't want to shell out for Uline either.  This seemed like a gamble but at this price I said why not.  It's been out at sea with me over 23 days in the last year and I'm more than impressed with it.  Feels sturdy to the touch and it does a honest job of making ice and lots of it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 897, "id": 465884, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 110, "text": "I needed an adapter to attach a Moentrol faceplate to the valve. This is advertised to fit a Positemp model but since I could not find a plaster ground for the Moentrol, and this is described as fitting a single handle valve, I though I would try this cause it's cheap enough. Bottom line, screws for the faceplate didn't line up, so it's now a useless piece of plastic. I messed up the part and cannot return it. Be advised, it does not fit a Moentrol model.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 898, "id": 153018, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 89, "len_tokens": 168, "text": "Was fairly easy to pull apart the dryer and swap out the part.  Great price and fast shipping\nAs FYI...you will likely pull out handfuls of lint from inside your dryer when you do this job (I certainly did).  Grab your shop vac and clean it out!  You should also clean out the vent hose behind your dryer and the duct that routes out under the house that evacuates the dryer exhaust outside the house.\nHere is a link to a great product for Duct Cleaning... http://www.amazon.com/Gardus-RLE202-LintEater-10-Piece-Cleaning/dp/B0014CN8Y8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1429963714&sr=8-2&keywords=dryer+vent+cleaning+brush", "label": 1}
{"sid": 899, "id": 429205, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 107, "text": "Excellent weather station so far. It took a couple of days of sitting out of package for the indoor and outdoor to read the same temps and humidity in my room. but since then they read very very close to the same all the time. My one complaint is that the outdoor senser only reads the temp in Celsius. Or if there is a way to have it display in Fahrenheit I cannot figure it out. I want to use it in my greenhouse and it would be nice to be able to know what the temp was while outside.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 900, "id": 485063, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 85, "len_tokens": 108, "text": "If I could give zero stars I would.  We bought the unit 8 months ago, it has yet to clean the dishes.  It cleans the bottom rack better than the top rack.  I have scrubbed the dishes before putting them in the dishwasher and they still come out dirty.  This is the worst dishwasher I've ever had.  We will have to replace it and lose our money.  I will NEVER buy a whirlpool product again (or Maytag).  Save you money, don't buy this model!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 901, "id": 66550, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 94, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "We have about a 20 foot vent for our dryer. It was very clogged and this product worked great. We did not have any extention and needed to work the vent from both ends. We did have to go into the vent with a shop vacuum after to get any remaining lint that was not pushed completely out.\nYes I would recommend this product and for the price it is probably one of the best on the market. Just read the instruction manual carefully. You don't want any parts getting stuck in your vent!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 902, "id": 285553, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 122, "len_tokens": 138, "text": "This was exactly like the old one, only this one works! Forget all that stuff about replacing the start switch. That is just a rubber grommet. The reason this washing machine fails to start, as thousands of you experience daily, the little micro-switch in this motherboard is failing. It took about 15 minutes to replace the entire thing with just a few simple tools. Hopefully this one will last a few years in a washing machine that should get one star. You may as well order a new knob while you are at it because it is going to crack and fail the day you really need it to work.\n\nI would buy from them again. Packaging was a bit too light.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 903, "id": 94355, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 133, "len_tokens": 165, "text": "The filter fit perfectly and at 1/2 the price of the GE one it is a great deal.\n\nMy only problem with it is you need to flush at least 2 gallons (12 - 24oz cups) of water thru it to get all the plastic taste out of it. The water was very cloudy for the first 5 minutes of flushing.\n\nThe directions stated 5 minutes and it needed more than 10 minutes before the water started to taste good.\n\nThe previous GE filters only needed 2 minutes to remove the plastic taste (3 - 24oz cups).\n\nPro\"s: Inexpensive and fits perfectly, water taste is good only after much flushing.\n\nCon's: It needs 2-3 times the amount of flushing that the instructions state, to get the plastic taste out of the water.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 904, "id": 149466, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 80, "len_tokens": 100, "text": "My laundry room is on the second floor.  I was very skeptical but hopeful based on the reviews.  I went from all of the windows on the second floor rattling and it sounding like a plane was taking off when on the 1st floor to barely noticing the slight vibration during the spin cycle.  WOW.  Cannot be more satisfied.  And as if that wasn't good enough, the machine doesn't dance around the laundry room AT ALL.  Thank you. Thank you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 905, "id": 450936, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 109, "text": "Just to let everyone know, this is a great freezer and I have had mine for years but the drawer at the bottom gets stuck closed with ice above it as that is where the coils are. When you defrost it, make sure you open the drawer and see if the ice above the drawer is melted too or eventually you will never get the drawer open. I use the drawer for things like bread and butter so that I open it all the time now. When it starts to stick, I defrost whether the top needs it or not.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 906, "id": 170541, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 152, "len_tokens": 184, "text": "Sears Service lists part number 8564009 is what I need for my Kenmore Oasis Elite washer. They want $20 more than this part W10189077 on Amazon, But it also says on the Sears site that W10189077 is equivalent, so I gave this kit a try, saving $20 off the bat. Took about half an hour for my son and I to replace the old rods with those in this kit. There is a great video on youtube showing how to do it. The kit has a cup for each rod that the original did not have. This lifts the basket up a bit. Long story short, it works perfectly. Washer was banging and going to UL status on every load before. Now it runs like new even with a load full of towels. No banging, no UL condition. Sears wants $150 just to come out and look at it. Couldn't be happier!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 907, "id": 352022, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 115, "len_tokens": 129, "text": "I found these stove gap covers to be a little on the flimsy side. I was surprised though that they covered the 3/4\" gap we had between our counter and stove without falling into the gap. They stay in place fairly well. I found that if you put the wider side on the stove they stayed in place better. I haven't spilled anything major on the covers yet but so far they have cleaned up easily with soap and water. They do the job just fine but could be a little more sturdy. Having tan as a color choice would be nice instead of just black or white to better match our stove and counters.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 908, "id": 164978, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 85, "len_tokens": 103, "text": "5 stars means \"I love it\".  I don't know if I would go that far, but I put it in myself and it worked.  I should also add that I am female and had never fixed an appliance before!  This price was about half of the prices I found elsewhere. It made me nervous to spend so little, but the dryer is ancient already so I figure if it doesn't last that long, it's ok.  It's been in for months now and is working fine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 909, "id": 542367, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 115, "len_tokens": 134, "text": "Not perfect, but does what it is advertised to do and seems to be reliable.  Overall I am very happy with it.\n\nHere are a few areas where it could use improvement:\n1. The software for this comes on a provided CD and is not available on their website.  Don't lose the disk!\n2. When connected to USB, the internal power dissipation in the device causes the temperature reading to be a few degrees higher then it should be.  The best solution to this is to use the external temperature probe.\n3. The exported data in in Microsoft Excel is in text format and needs to be converted to numbers in order to be graphed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 910, "id": 486184, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 88, "len_tokens": 108, "text": "Lasts a long time provided you put it through the dish washer every few weeks.  I cook Asian food all the time on an electric stove, high heat, lots of stir frying.  It traps alot of the oil.  The hood design could be better, but since I'm only reviewing the screens, we'll stick to their role specifically.\n\nThe last screens I had lasted 5 years.  I expect these will last until I change the hood in the next few years.\n\nHighly recommend if you have this hood design.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 911, "id": 289676, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 152, "len_tokens": 180, "text": "I purchased this dishwasher about 6 weeks ago and it is typically used for 2-3 loads each day. I'm primarily using it to wash baby bottles, sippy cups, coffee cups, forks and spoons, plastic cups, etc. Other than a couple of instances where something I was washing protruded below the rack bars and blocked the spray bar from turning, it has worked flawlessly.\n\nOur regular dishwasher lost its mind and flooded our house while we were at work. So we've been without a full size DW since that happened about 7 weeks ago - and will be at least another week until the kitchen is back together and the new full size DW is up and running. We've been using paper plates and eating out a good bit, but with 3 kids 3 yrs old or less we still had to keep certain stuff washed. This dishwasher has been a life saver.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 912, "id": 57481, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 103, "len_tokens": 127, "text": "Used this to clean our ridgid aluminum dryer vent that runs about 7 ft. vertical and about 12 ft. horizontal.  I separated the runs at the 90 degree elbow and went to work.  In 20 minutes both runs were as clean as the day I installed them 25 years ago.  You could hardly see through the horizontal run. I figure the air flow was at about 1/2 before cleaning and I was hearing complaints of clothes not getting dry.\nAll I did was hook up the shop vac outside and went to work from the inside.  No mess what so ever!  Highly recommended!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 913, "id": 301233, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 49, "len_tokens": 143, "text": "<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Cosmo-668AS750-30-in-Wall-Mount-Range-Hood-with-Tempered-Glass-Visor-Soft-Touch-Controls-LED-Lighting-and-Permanent-Filters/dp/B01DMZ0XOC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Cosmo 668AS750 30 in. Wall Mount Range Hood with Tempered Glass Visor, Soft Touch Controls, LED Lighting and Permanent Filters</a>\nThis range not only looks great but is also very easy to install.  The strong CFM and easily removable filter are a plus as well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 914, "id": 478728, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 165, "len_tokens": 198, "text": "For my family of 3 and for the price, happy with dishwasher. Been using for a month. Verrrry quiet, which I love! Have to double check sometimes to make sure it is running. Dishes come out sparkling clean. The negative is the design of the baskets. It is not easy to load and I cannot get as much in as I did with my other dishwasher. With only 3 of us here (most of the time), that's not a big deal. Because it cleans so well, is efficient and quiet, I don't mind running it more often. As recommended by all dishwasher people in the know, we do not rinse our dishes before loading-just scrape off the food before putting in. I've even left them overnight and they still come out clean. The way the dishwasher cleans is more important to me then how it loads. Compared it to other dishwasherws and found this to be the best buy per price and reviews. Not disappointed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 915, "id": 469832, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 137, "len_tokens": 159, "text": "This product is a thin like film, I tried to apply this film to a very smooth and\nclean dishwasher door, I tried it the way the instruction said with a mist of water before applying. I evenly removed the backing paper and smooth the film down with the other hand. trying to remove the air bubbles as I continue the go across the door.  needless to say when I finished the door had many air bubbles underneath.  I work on it for a couple hours with a prick pin and s squeegee, still could not remove all the air behind the film.  I then tried it on a smooth clean oven door, without the water this time, the results were the same.  It looked terrible.\n\nI then preceeded with removing the film and trashing the product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 916, "id": 325927, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 113, "text": "This door lock and switch assembly works great, and was a very easy replacement for the failed unit in my washer. Unfortunately this was only the beginning of my problems, and immediately after replacing this I started having all sorts of other issues with the appliance, but that has nothing to do with the part that I received. It worked as expected until the unit died completely. On a side note, this was my 3rd attempt at a front load washer which I don't think they have perfected quite yet. It's back to the top load again until next time!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 917, "id": 55809, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 90, "len_tokens": 104, "text": "As advertised received 3 individually wrapped unopened factory sealed filters for my fridge. Only reason didn't give 5 stars was that all three were taped together in clear shipping tape so you could tell what they were. My postman left them on my front porch. Was afraid someone would take them because they could see what they were. Other than that great product, great price. Would purchase again.\n\nAnd as always take these reviews with a grain of salt because most people don't know what they are talking about anyway.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 918, "id": 3454, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 79, "len_tokens": 101, "text": "Just got them today and I like them so far.  There are 4 of them, 2- 8-inch ones and 2- 10-inch ones and they cover my 8 inch and 6 inch electric stove top burners.  They are made of thin tin but they do what they are supposed to, that is cover them and prevent splatter from the other burners while cooking and you can set a plate, dish or pot on top of them while not in use.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 919, "id": 125172, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 127, "len_tokens": 154, "text": "When I first started using this product, I thought, \"Where have you been all my life?!\" I loved it. My hair looked great, and it was very easy to use and get wonderful results. There was a brief learning curve in order not to get my hair tangled while it rotated, but I managed quickly. Unfortunately, within the past 6 months, I noticed that it was not rotating as well as it had before, so I hardly used it, and today it completely stopped rotating. I don't think that 2 1/2 years service, with only occasional use, is sufficient in terms of providing a quality customer experience. That is why I have given it only 2 stars. I am going to try the Revlon version next.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 920, "id": 482527, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 106, "len_tokens": 137, "text": "I bought this unit to replace a GE Profile cooktop that was 18 years old.  Installation was easy, but the opening in my counter had to be slightly enlarged about 1/4\" to accomodate its more rectangular shape then the older model.\nThe burners light easily.  The center burner has high BTU to help boil water faster or heat up a frying pan quickly.  The burner parts come apart easily, and go back together efficiently for cleaning.  The Burner Lock feature works well to child proof the cooktop.  It's nice having an all new cooktop with no rust.  The cooking grates feel heavy, and are dishwasher safe.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 921, "id": 515911, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 115, "text": "This wire does not even work. When I plug into the television from the very first day I bought it, the product did not work. I contacted Samsung and bought a whole new box for $400 and now I am frustrated to know that it wasn't the box. It was simply the wire. That I spent $120 on didn't work either, such a shame, they will not let me return it or exchange it. I am a very upset and Loyal customer. I may be looking on other websites soon. If Amazon continues to treat its customers like this.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 922, "id": 194253, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 131, "len_tokens": 153, "text": "I ordered this replacement part for my GE refrigerator - 26 years old, but still running well.\nThe part that arrived was not as shown - the hinge cut outs were not compatible with the refrigerator.  My husband needed to make some adjustments to the hinge (cut it off at the bottom) to make it fit.\nWe tried to get this GE part from my local dealer as well, and he was not able to get the right one either.  Same thing I got from Amazon, so I returned it.\nThe supplier is advertising this as the part for this refrigerator, but it does not fit.\nWe finally were able to purchase the correct part, directly from GE after lots of searching.  The correct part number is WR49X5124 obtained from [...]", "label": 0}
{"sid": 923, "id": 233763, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 119, "len_tokens": 145, "text": "If your He washer is having any issues at all then 90% of the time it's this small affordable part that you need to replace.  Couple bolts on the bottom hold this in place so it's pretty easy to do the work yourself.  I talked my step-daughter through it and she's a total twig with no real strength at all (swear she weighs about 120lb soaking wet) - she had no problem doing it herself and she's not what I would call 'mechanically inclined'.\n\nIf you've got a washer problem then buy this - in fact buy 2 so you have a spare (can't help it I'm an Engineer I try to always have a spare on hand).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 924, "id": 101124, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 77, "len_tokens": 101, "text": "Almost went with a cheaper product, but decided to go for this one.  I'm glad I did.  These fit just perfectly and they seem very durable. They look nice too.  The other cheaper products had some sort of quilted/padded top which I didn't like at all.  These are not padded. They are more industrial in nature. I should hopefully not have to wash off all the dirt/dust/bird droppings from my machines that are on my patio anymore!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 925, "id": 497098, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 132, "text": "I'm not a huge fan of this unit.  I have a heat pump with a variable speed fan.  In the winter I  find that my unit runs as much if not more with a low fan speed than it does on high speed.  The pressure switch won't recognize the air flow in my duct system on low speed, therefore the solenoid won't engage unless my fan is on high speed.  So the unit never adequately humidifies my house.  I ended up just trashing the pressure switch and getting a friend of mine help me direct wire the solenoid so it comes on when the heat pump is in heat mode.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 926, "id": 399827, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 94, "len_tokens": 114, "text": "Well, for the most part it works well.  It cleans surprisingly well.  And it gets the clothes mostly dry, so that only a brief air drying is required.  However, there are a few design flaws with this unit.  First, the pump is not strong enough to actually pump water up any elevation at all.  Maybe in part do the the improper draining, residual soap and smell is also a problem.  We fixed this by running while sitting in the bathtub.  That seem to be the only way to get the unit to drain properly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 927, "id": 25453, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 115, "len_tokens": 139, "text": "My garbabe disposer wasn't cutting stuff up like it should be so I thought it was going to need to be replaced. I looked around and found the disposer I wanted and requested a gift card from [...] to help with the cost of the disposer. I decided to check out disposers on Amazon and saw this gadget so I purchased it. After all, what could it hurt for $5.99? The wrenchette arrived Friday and after a couple of good cranks with it, the old disposer was running again. Therefore, I won't have to worry about purchasing a new one and installing the unit myself. This is a great tool and is well worth having.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 928, "id": 40654, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 92, "len_tokens": 119, "text": "This range hood is simple, straight forward installation and easy to use.  It is mounted by four screws/bolts--one in each corner.  The AC connection drops in the top of the unit, for easy connections.  The only negative I have about the unit is the two 40 watt bulbs.  As I get older, I need more light to see but I solved this problem by going to some standard medium base high output LED bulbs.  (a higher wattage incandescent bulb would melt the lamp cover) I am using this as a non-ducted hood.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 929, "id": 33750, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 109, "text": "I wasn't sure if these would fit because the holes were slightly different sizes than mine (based on the images), but I was wrong! They look lovely and are CONSIDERABLY less expensive than Home Depot or Target. One thing that I felt was missing out of other users' reviews was the make of their oven; mine is a Frigidaire, I have no idea what model but it is at least 4 years old. Here are two pictures; they appear black but it's just the lighting.\n\n[...]\n\n[...]", "label": 1}
{"sid": 930, "id": 42375, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 98, "len_tokens": 123, "text": "A bit taller than other filters I've used, so it doesn't quite fit right in my humidifier.\n\nUpdate: After running my humidifier for two weeks with this wick, it has dramatically outperformed a lot of the other options I've tried.  I've had to turn my humidifier to a lower setting to keep it from emptying the tank within a day, and shows no sign of slowing down yet like so many others I've tried that slowed to half or less performance in that period.  In fact, at two weeks it is outperforming others when they are brand new.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 931, "id": 566383, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 94, "len_tokens": 116, "text": "Suggestion: get battery backup for the freezer. It was cheap and worked fine. We knew we'd have to defrost it occasionally. We did read that the freezer must remain off for 5 minutes after a power outage, as. well as setting the dial to \"OFF\" before turning it back on. Since we were not there for the outage (there may have been more than one), the freezer turned back on when the power returned, which could have been less than 5 minutes. If I can fix it easily, I'll up the rating to 3.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 932, "id": 404300, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 102, "len_tokens": 117, "text": "I tested this the first day it arrived on time and in-damaged. I wasn't sure what to expect since I've never owned one of these. Ice began producing quickly but not as quickly as I had hoped. I filled two gallon-size freezer bags in about 3 hours while needing to refill water tank once. I was disappointed to find it is not for outdoor use, as the ice would melt very quickly. However, the ice made is perfect size and shape to keep drinks cold and if you plan ahead a little you will always have fresh, great tasting ice for guests.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 933, "id": 249069, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 104, "len_tokens": 116, "text": "I had looked at every single home improvement and appliance store in my area for this item but to no avail.  It was necessary for me to order this as a replacement for the one my elderly mother accidentally threw away along with the old filter.  No complaints here. It fit over the end of the new filter just perfectly, making it much easier to install the filter by hand rather than use wire pliers to turn it. Hopefully I won't need another one of these, but if I do, I will not hesitate at all to order the same thing from this company.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 934, "id": 134463, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 116, "len_tokens": 136, "text": "I purchased this at the start of April and it is now the middle of May and my water all the sudden tastes HORRIBLE from the fridge.  I tasted all the taps in the house and they are fine.  I took the filter out and shook it up for about 5 mins and put it back in and the water was tasting good again.  After another day all the sudden the water tasted terrible again.  Rinse and repeat, there is something very wrong with this replacement filter considering the original filter worked and tasted great for almost a year!\n\nMaybe it's because this was purchased from \"Franks\" or something, but this was a waste of money.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 935, "id": 12064, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 129, "len_tokens": 157, "text": "We've been using this dishwasher for about a month and just love it.  It's just the right size for a couple with no kids.  All the dishes and silverware from each meal go right in the dishwasher and if we have company, we just run it twice.  It's easy to keep clean and we've had no problems with the plumbing.  Our house is very old and we were worried that a full-size dishwasher would be too much of a drain on the kitchen circuits.  With the counter-top model, it's not a problem and we don't have to sacrifice any of our cabinets.  It takes up the same amount of space as our old drying rack, so it's been a great addition to our appliance family.  No complaints at all.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 936, "id": 561733, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 124, "len_tokens": 146, "text": "I called a Samsung-authorized repair company to fix the ice maker in my 4-door refrigerator/freezer. The ice maker kept icing over and stopping. The technician was familiar with the problem because Samsung had sent out a service notice to the effect that this ice maker was defective in many of this model refrigerator. Although this is a known defect, Samsung does not support its product if the problem becomes evident after the 1-year warranty has expired. My refrigerator is 2 years old. I have to pay $450 in parts and labor to replace the part. When I called, Samsung refused to pay even for the parts because it is not their policy to do so.\n\nThat's the last time I'll buy a Samsung appliance.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 937, "id": 192241, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 153, "len_tokens": 182, "text": "I had the Samsung filter and the water just tasted terrible.  I went through three filters and the same - terrible chlorinated tasting water.  I got this filter taking a chance and it works!  The water is clean and tastes perfect.  The filter is a tad bit smaller than the Samsung but it still fit and works flawlessly.  I will order another and at a great price too - a lot cheaper than the Samsung - this one is MADE IN THE USA.  Nice.\n\nUnrelated, the water is still luke warm at best - it is never cold which must be this refrigerator - it has been trouble from day one but that is another story.\n\nPROS:\nPrice!\nClean water that tastes good\nFits no problem no leaks\nMade in the USA\n\nCONS:\nNone other than it is a bit smaller than the stock Samsung but I don't think that will effect performance.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 938, "id": 262040, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 93, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "Great customer service ! Fast response,very pleased how they handled my situation and as far as the dryers concerned I did not buy it for my regular laundry! have a regular size in my basement I bought it to keep in my bedroom to get clothes warm in the winter and  to take out wrinkles while getting ready for work!  its nice putting on warm clothes before going out in the blistering cold at 430 in the morning, oh works great on taking the wrinkles out of the cloths when in a hurry.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 939, "id": 416982, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 103, "len_tokens": 122, "text": "Packaging is great, a lot of information on it, and in the inserts in the box. Time will tell how this filter stands up - but for now 5 stars! I love the little meter on the side of the filter that you can put on the magnet to track the months and also the opt-in text reminder program! If this filter holds it's own over the next 6 months then I'll buy it again. I have a GE Double Door Fridge with Smart Water system. Filter fits perfectly, went on easy, and water cycled pretty fast through it. So far so good!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 940, "id": 351773, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 85, "len_tokens": 104, "text": "Stove gap seals are as advertised.  They fit very well in the paper thin gap between the stove and counter.  The stove is about 1/4\" lower than the counter and the seals adapt just fine.  The black color blends in quite well with the counter and stove.  Only con is that the surface is somewhat tacky and difficult to keep clean but I'm sure being tacky is what keeps them in place so well.  Certainly better than having crumbs accumulate between stove and counter top.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 941, "id": 199424, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 114, "text": "I recently purchased this latch assembly for my washer. It was pretty easy to install or at least it looked easy when the boyfriend did it. He watched a couple of videos on how to do it on youtube and it the washer now works fine and is not having the problem anymore so im going to assume its great. This item came to the house quickly and took him about an hour to an hour and a half to fix. I was very pleased with this purchase. Thank you so much for your time and i hope you find this information helpful when making a purchasing decision.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 942, "id": 488899, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 112, "len_tokens": 152, "text": "We bought this model for our office in 2014.  It's now 2 years later and it has been very reliable...ABOUT BREAKING DOWN!  We are now on our 6th repair.  It shipped with a bad wiring harness, then the thermal switch went bad, then the water control valve.  That went bad again and was replaced with a new version because the older ones would flood people's houses.  Well...we're on newly designed valve number two and it went bad after 24 hours.  Technically, it IS making ice...sculptures.  In complete disclosure, we did not buy this from Amazon.  I just wanted to share our experiences with one of the worst products we have ever purchased.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 943, "id": 296996, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 106, "len_tokens": 129, "text": "This is the best washing machine I have owned since my slant front Westinghouse. Making up my own laundry soap has been problematic in automatic washing machines, as I do not use an anti-deposition agent. Clothing washed in the past had to be rewashed to remove deep soil in apparently clean garments. Running all loads at the high water level seems to be the key to lint removal,it works like a swimming pool skimmer. The heaviest garment I own is a bathrobe, a very heavy hooded robe. This required the Heavy cycle (duh) and much to my surprise, fit into the spinner for extraction. WOW !", "label": 1}
{"sid": 944, "id": 135329, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 98, "len_tokens": 196, "text": "I was hesitant to buy this because the filter that came with my Samsung refrigerator was labeled DA29-00020A, not B, but I could not find anyone selling a filter ending in A.  Luckily this filter was identical to the spent one that came with the refrigerator and it works great.  So, at least for my fridge, it seems like the A and B filters are interchangeable... maybe A's are just the ones that ship with new products???  Here is the fridge I have:&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Samsung-RF4287HARS-28-cu-ft-4-Door-French-Door-Refrigerator-Stainless-Steel/dp/B003M5L284/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Samsung RF4287HARS 28 cu. ft. 4-Door French Door Refrigerator - Stainless Steel</a>", "label": 1}
{"sid": 945, "id": 402658, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 137, "len_tokens": 156, "text": "The honest truth is that if you are a single person, this machine is perfect for you. It doesn't hold much clothing at all and it is a lot of labor. If you have the time and energy, this is just right for you. I used it happily for a long time when it was just me and 2 little kids. The spinner WILL break if you overload it, by the way. I broke it. Customer service tried to help, but it was not fixable. Once I became a family of four doing a lot of laundry, this machine was not up to the task anymore. This machine is just too much labor. Entire days were consumed doing laundry and by the time we were done, we were too tired to do anything else that was fun.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 946, "id": 70827, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 126, "len_tokens": 167, "text": "I hate long reviews, so I'll give you the short.  I've owned this dishwasher for 4 months now and I'm generally happy with it's quietness and ability to clean.  However, I'm extremely disappointed with its loading.  Every time I go to load this, I have to fight with it.  It's about 3X more expensive than my last dishwasher, and loads about 2X worse, and holds less dishes.  I would not buy this again solely due to its loading ability.  Another negative is its child proof locking.  Instead of setting this once, you have to set it every time you load the dishes.  If you have children, and don't have the time to fuss loading, then look for another machine.  You won't be happy with this one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 947, "id": 430633, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 144, "len_tokens": 177, "text": "Bought this cute little thing to keep track of the humidity around my humidity-loving indoor plants. I've had it for a little over a week, and it's all I could ask for.  For the money, it seems to be pretty accurate with temperature and humidity. It's attractive, small, and stands up on my plant stand nicely. Whenever I mist the plants, the humidity goes up to 60%, which would be pretty accurate. Hey, I live in the high desert! So the rest of the time the humidity is pretty low. It's easy to read, and very simple to operate. I don't need lots of buttons, etc. I like to keep it simple. I keep it set on Fahrenheit because that's what I prefer. I would recommend this to someone who wants a general idea of humidity. For the price, I could not be happier.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 948, "id": 69993, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 119, "text": "I had wanted an indoor outdoor thermometer for a long time.  Then I found this one on Amazon's website and ordered 4 of them.  The other 3 I gave away as gifts.\n\nThe one thing I don't like is that you can't see both indoor and outdoor temperatures at the same time.  The accuracy seems good within a deg or so.  Hard to judge the humidity accuracy but seems to be fairly close. Another thing is if you live in extremely cold areas you will need lithium batteries for the ouside wireless unit. So I rated this 4 stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 949, "id": 221325, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 122, "text": "Pros:  makes ice quickly.\n\nCons:  is not as portable as described.  Needs to plumbed to a water supply, and drain needs to be available lower than bottom of the machine.  Ice starts melting as soon as it is made since bin is not refrigerated. It drains a lot of water.\n\nI bought to have available when we have parties.  I placed in laundry room and bought a $6 fitting to plumb to the existing laundry tub water supply.  I elevated the ice maker and drain into an existing floor drain.\n\nOverall for the reason I purchased unit I am satisfied.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 950, "id": 308322, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 86, "len_tokens": 100, "text": "Five years ago we purchased a Samsung front load washer WF448AAW for approx $1,300. A few days ago the washer started making a very loud noise during the spin cycle. We were informed that two of the three pieces that connect the tub to the motor are broken, both the rear and front tub need to be replaced as well as four shocks.  The estimate for these repairs is $800. Needless to say we will not be considering Samsung as a replacement brand. Very disappointing.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 951, "id": 231454, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 127, "len_tokens": 147, "text": "If you purchase this to repair your dryer, then you should also look for the thermal cut off part to replace. You need to replace both of these parts to regain heat in the dryer becaue they usually blow up together. When my dryer broke, I googled the problem. I received some good advice which is to replace both of these parts, after checking the outside lint trap for obstructions. That trap was clogged and caused the dryer to overheat blowing the high limit thermostat and thermal cut off. There was other advise about checking the thermal fuse. If your dryer tumbles but does not get hot, then you do not need a new thermal fuse. If the thermal fuse blows, then the dryer will not tumble.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 952, "id": 92018, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 127, "len_tokens": 142, "text": "This belt saved the day. Had bought a belt from local store and put on dryer in one month was chewed up. Evidently was wrong size. So ordered this hoping for better luck.  This was delivered in two days. Great! Husband installed this one which went on much easier than first and dryer is working great. We made mistake of not measuring first bad belt to the old one. So if possible to save yourself lots of work when you do get belt match with old one before trying to install. We gave both dealers correct name and numbers but first one was not right belt. Would gladly order from this dealer again who sent the right belt and price was similar to first in town dealer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 953, "id": 283496, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 121, "len_tokens": 155, "text": "Additional feedback. Returning this unit today.  'Fill Water' light staying on.  'Ice Full' light staying on. Have to near constantly power off then on. This unit did NOT keep up with small demandsince we couldn't stand by it all day and night powering off and on. I have replaced it with a maker that says it makes 46 lbs per day for only $50.00 more. So far it works fine. Original feedback  \"3rd ice maker I've bought in 7 years. Every time they shrink a lot. This is very small. Holds very little water in the reserve tank and even the 'large cubes' are very small.  Quiet operation. So far works fine but not sure it can keep up with demand.\"", "label": 0}
{"sid": 954, "id": 58027, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 142, "len_tokens": 170, "text": "If your dryer takes longer to dry clothes than it used to, I strongly suggest you buy this product. This tool does the job. It's not one of those products sold on late night commercials that you never know if it really works. The linteater DOES work. It is simple to use and has clear instructions. It is designed to work with any 1/2\" and 3/8\" drill. You will be amazed at how much lint you'll get out of the vent, which makes me think of a piece of advice: consider buying the bag (Lint catcher) they sell for this job. It will catch all the lint coming out of the vent therefore preventing it from being blown in every direction, including your face. By the way, a dust mask and a pair of safety glasses are recommended while doing the job.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 955, "id": 536431, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 121, "len_tokens": 137, "text": "We have owned this stove for about 15 months and use it about 4 times per week. So far so good. Looks great in the kitchen. Have had zero problems with it. Like all stainless stoves, it can be a chore to keep clean and free from scratches. I just use Windex and follow up with an oil based stainless steel cleaner being sure to always wipe in the direction of the grain. When I was looking for a stove, this was only restaurant style model in this price range. More choices out there now but for the money I would buy this stove again. Be sure to have a helper around when you install it as it weighs 353 pounds.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 956, "id": 340252, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 96, "len_tokens": 119, "text": "My dishwasher top rack failed two times over after several years. The plastic mounts from both right wheels snapped.  A very flimsy design. The repair kit fixes the problem with steel and a huskier wheel mounting. A FAR better solution. Definitely upgrade to this Whirlpool OEM kit. Don't buy the cheaper plastic repair kit. It will take you 30 min max to pull out the hold mountings and install these upgrades.  The instructions are pretty good. And once you have done one side and see how it goes, the second side is less than 5 minutes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 957, "id": 157220, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 106, "len_tokens": 121, "text": "I thought that I was going to need a new dryer until I found a video showing you how to replace the Dryer door switch. So I did a little research and found this replacement part. The part came in about 2 days of me ordering it and it fit perfectly. I am very pleased with my purchase. And to think it cost me less than $10 to get my dryer back running properly. By the way this part fits my Kenmore dryer. So if you have a Kenmore dryer it is compatiable. That was one of my concerns as well. Hope this works for you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 958, "id": 67969, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 106, "len_tokens": 128, "text": "I'll begin by saying that the product arrived in a timely fashion and was as expected.  Nothing bad to say about the shipper.\n\nI purchased it because the original snapped off while I was routing the drain hose. This piece needs to be made of brass, or at least built heavier.  As it stands today they just as well have built it out of spit wads.  At $9.99 a pop, my ass is a little sore; it's probably .03 cents worth of injection molding plastic pellets. Just as well get used to it as I imagine I'll be purchasing one anytime I go near the thing.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 959, "id": 516427, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 91, "len_tokens": 108, "text": "This transformer works well for powering thermostats in situations where there is no \"C\" wire present at the thermostat location.  You can mount it in a single gang electrical box in the wall (should be metal); I made a bracket to hold it securely in the box.  Then run 110 VAC from a nearby outlet box into the thermostat box to the primary side of the transformer; run 24 VAC from the secondary side of the transformer to the thermostat (all wires inside the wall).  Works like a champ.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 960, "id": 69150, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 92, "len_tokens": 109, "text": "So far, no issues with this freezer.  Like other reviews, this arrived with a dent in the front, which means little to me since I would probably have dented it anyways.  It is indeed an RCA freezer instead of an Igloo, which I am slightly confused about, but I guess I am not mad about it since it still works fine and I got a good deal.  I would say that, like most online purchases, you have to make your own mind up, but I feel it was a good purchase overall.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 961, "id": 18111, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 106, "len_tokens": 125, "text": "This doesn't seem to be an OEM filter. I bought two of them and, as other people said in here, the filter lost its shape and started to collapse. The filters I received are not even close to the blue wall Honeywell filters I've bought in the past.\nI cannot recommend this filter: Either they are fake or Honeywell has lower the quality to the point that they don't even last two weeks.\nThe last one I used basically \"crumbled\" when I took it out of the humidifier\nIt's rare when I give negative reviews in Amazon - This one does not even deserve one star.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 962, "id": 55969, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 114, "len_tokens": 133, "text": "Typically, the GE SmartWater Filter last roughly 6 months in my house and I had good luck with this filter until NOW.  Each of these filter lasted roughly 3 months or less.  The water could barely flow after roughly 7 weeks.\n\nI have had good luck with ordering stuff from Amazon but had run into a couple of products that I ordered from Amazon recently that does not seem to work as good or deceptively shown (recieved product does not look like what was shown).\n\nThis is SAD because I have been a good Amazon customer.  These kind of incidents will for sure make me rethink of buying any thing through Amazon again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 963, "id": 450941, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 86, "len_tokens": 102, "text": "Got this for my daughters dorm room-her food seems to disappear from the community freezer...  It is a sharp looking unit, quiet enough to have next to your bed.  It freezes super fast in the upper compartment.  The lower compartment works great for ice cream you don't want rock hard.  I think this will be a good freezer size to give years of use beyond college. Shipping was no problem once we coordinated our schedule with the local truckers, which Amazon put us contact with directly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 964, "id": 265234, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 84, "len_tokens": 101, "text": "UPDATED REVIEW: This item did not work upon receipt. I spent the extra $10 on a GE portable washer from Home Depot while attempting to get refunded for this item. The GE is significantly bigger, washes better, and much shorter wash cycle (the SPT takes 2 hours vs about 45minutes for the GE!). DO NOT BUY THIS ITEM\n\nDespite the trouble getting refunded from the manufacturer, Amazon stepped in and refunded the full amount of the product. Kudos to Amazon for customer support.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 965, "id": 26076, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 122, "len_tokens": 143, "text": "I bought two of these.  They are very easy to install after cutting out the remains of the old folded version that came with my unit.  I do not notice a difference in the volume of the unit when operating as some other reviewers have noted. If there is, it is negligible.  I like that it can be removed as easily as it was installed so that I can clean it. I haven't put it in the dishwasher as others haver suggested, don't think I will.  I installed this with the edges facing up so that my stainless strainer basket fits nicely in the drain.  I would buy again and just may purchase a couple more for spares, should the need arise.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 966, "id": 454589, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 83, "len_tokens": 100, "text": "I can't believe it, but we are in need of a 3rd replacement on this particular refrigerator in less than 2 months.  They have worked fine for a couple of weeks then the temperature cannont stay within a safe range even during 11pm-8am when no one is opening the door. I only write this review because I rely heavily on other people's experiences with products and feel that this model has a huge problem since we've had more than one fail so quickly.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 967, "id": 117862, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 104, "text": "Realized I hadn't replaced my fridge filter in a while.  Came exactly as advertised and was a perfect match to the existing one.  The only thing that could be improved is the directions..  It said to take out the old one and push in the new one til it clicks.. pushing pushing but no click!  There were two little tabs that need to be removed from the prongs first.  Maybe it was just me, but it would've been nice to have seen that written in the directions.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 968, "id": 555495, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 125, "len_tokens": 144, "text": "I love this product. This is actually the second time I bought a spin dryer from this company. I bought the last one five years go, and it had been working very well. I've been living in apartments, where I have to share washers with many residents. Let just say not everybody has the same hygiene standards. After seeing people threw some really nasty things into washers, I decided to hand wash my clothes. At first, the biggest issue was dripping water, which not only made the floor wet but also damage my clothes. With this spinner, which spin water out from washed clothes, I no longer have to worry about this issue. I highly recommend this product to anyone who hand wash their clothes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 969, "id": 275238, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 131, "text": "I was panicking when I bought this. I have an older stove and was very wary of buying parts for it online. But I am so glad that I did because it worked wonderfully. My order came in impeccable timing so I didn't have much time without a working burner. It was really easy to do. Just as simple as the old burner/element pops out, it popped right in. They heat up really fast and nice and even. Even better I saved 70 bucks by not buying the parts for my frigidaire stove at Sears Parts Direct (also replaced all four surface elements.) Cheap price doesn't always mean cheaply made.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 970, "id": 459191, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 113, "len_tokens": 132, "text": "Bought this for a house I was building for myself. I moved in 3 weeks ago so that is how long it lasted.\n  I was standing next to the sink when the disposal went on by itself about 1/2 speed. I pushed the button and it went to full speed then hit the button again and it went to 1/2 speed and would not shut off.\nAfter removing the switch I opened the cover up to find a melted and smoking switch. Could have burned the house down.\nI have installed a dozen of these in different homes and never had this type of problem. This is the first and last Mr. Scrappy.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 971, "id": 509499, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 176, "len_tokens": 199, "text": "I was gifted this range after not being able to find the gas line in our home and living two years without a range. My mother-in-law has the top induction range in this same line and I have cooked on her range before so when I saw this unit on sale I had to have it.\n\nI had been eye balling a Samsung slide-in that would have looked beautiful in my kitchen but for a few hundred more, this range trumped that one with induction.\n\nThe range in simple and easy to work. Water does boil very, very quickly on the Power Boil setting. Cleaning up is easy as everything is flat and there are no knobs.\n\nI have had no issues with this range. In fact, I love it but I cannot give it 5 stars because I don't like the amount of heat it loses if you open the oven. I'm not sure how much it loses compared to others but it was enough for me to notice when I was cooking a casserole.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 972, "id": 511452, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 108, "text": "Love the product but delivery was a MESS. Who has a product delivered,  like a 400 lb fridge, with a carrier who drops off outside?  Most stores will drop off, install,  and remove the old product.  Also, it was obviously dented by what appears to be a fork lift. I have photos. I told the driver and he reported it for claim purposes.  We never followed up because it works and having it removed would have been a nightmare. The small dent it hidden by a wall.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 973, "id": 358039, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 109, "len_tokens": 129, "text": "This filter is priced better than the other filter options, makes great tasting water, and should've been a perfect 5*, except it makes it a weird buzzing noise when dispensing. At first the noise was contained in the fridge, but now it has progressively gotten louder even through the closed door. I don't know why it does that, none of the other filters I've had do this, and I feel a little concerned but not enough to write a bad review.\n\nIt's a noisy filter and it gets louder, I don't know how loud it will be by the end, but for now I think it's a good value.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 974, "id": 455493, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 111, "text": "At first I was dissapointed because it does not a true sensor. I had a microwave that you cook hit auto reheat, and it automatically adjusted the time itself (I usually had to give it another 30 sec.) But after I got the hang of this one, I liked it. Some cool features are the delay cooking timer, and the abilty to program something to cook at 2 different power settings. Heats stuff fast (cup of tea 1:10 secs) and the defroster is amazing-- no hot spots.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 975, "id": 446274, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 132, "len_tokens": 140, "text": "I have to say being that this is so small it is very VERY powerful when it comes to washing and the spin cycle might as well be a dryer my stuff I can put into the spin cycle soaked and it come out to little to no water left and practically dry it is a life saver and money saver FROM spending money and using nasty public washers and dryers that you have no clue is in them great for dorm rooms and Apartments like i have now down sized and came in handy!! I must say I can wash my queen bed set and daughter's things 8lb washer the dry spin cycle I must warn you is very loud when I'm the spin cycle but worth it A MUST BUY!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 976, "id": 28203, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 144, "len_tokens": 163, "text": "I expected this to be a lot better than it was.  For a plastic device that needs to be opened to empty and put fresh water in between cycles the thing is a huge pain to open and close.  I tried this in my rather large kitchen and it fogged up all of the windows in my house and my dryer started complaining about checking the lint trap (which is changed every time).  My room was extremely humid to the point I think this would have damaged my appliances in the room.  I would not recommend this product to anyone.  I did like the dryer hose (even though it seems very cheap) it was easier to work with than my thick dryer vent hose that I had hooked up previously.  I guess I paid $10 for a new dryer vent hose.  Very disappointing.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 977, "id": 124623, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 143, "len_tokens": 187, "text": "Replaced my burnt-out defrost heater. Product arrived in the original GE box. Installed easily, works as it is supposed to. This unit has the defrost switch and harness attached, so there is literally no fiddling around with splices or such, just unplug the old one and plug this in. Whole repair cost less than 1/3 what it did to have a repairman do it the last time.\n\nThere seems to be some confusion in general about which heater you get. My unit originally had a single tube defroster, which GE has deprecated in favor of a 2-tube unit that fits in its place. I actually thought I was getting the 2-tube, but instead got the original 1-tube. Easier for me, but the 2-tube might last longer. GE supposedly changed units so the energy density in the tubes would be lower, for longer life.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 978, "id": 125592, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 111, "text": "I love this brush blow dryer.  It smooths out my hair, gives it body and is easy to use.  I have owned one that didn't have the interchangeable sizes and am happy that I found this to replace the older one.  My hair is very thick so I do start off using a regular blow dryer on my roots or I would be here all day!  I absolutely recommend this.  Great product.  And I have owned my fair share of different types of curling irons/flat irons/blow dryers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 979, "id": 562332, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 120, "len_tokens": 144, "text": "Surprisingly, it works.  This is for a sailboat and I also purchased a portable washer with a separate spinner that takes about 75% of the water out.  This little pop up tent finishes the rest of the job in about an hour.  It is extremely portable, but I can't figure out how in the world it would ever fit into the tiny bag that it came with.  The only criticism I have with this product is that it isn't really tall enough for my men's t shirts to fully hang inside without the bottom of the shirt laying on the inside of the tent.  Also, I suggest moving the clothes around every 15 minutes, as it doesn't necessarily dry uniformly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 980, "id": 78512, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 145, "len_tokens": 173, "text": "Biggest piece of garbage ! I had this installed appx. a year ago , the filter that came with it was defective and only produced a trickle of water. We exchanged it at Home Depot where it was bought. The second filter worked fine.\nWhen that one needed replacement, we ordered directly from GE. Guess what ? Same problem ! They replaced it, but we had to wait over a week for the shipment to arrive; no ice or cold water during that time.\nA week ago, the new replacement arrived from them, same thing again. This time I called customer service, they were absolutely polite but WORTHLESS. No clue as to why this happened 3 times over a year with defective filters.\nI ripped the entire thing out and replaced it with another brand. Let's see how that one will go. I've NEVER experienced anything like it .", "label": 0}
{"sid": 981, "id": 518271, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 85, "len_tokens": 107, "text": "So far, GREAT! Burners are consistent. Don't go out on simmer. Looks great. I read all the problems people were having with browning on the stainless so I cleaned it with Barkeepers Friend before I used it and as I thought,  no browning.  I assume there is a factory coating to protect the stainless that must be browning up.\n\nOnly problem I have is the left and right knobs are a little  in the way when I use my large Lodge griddle. But not unworkable.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 982, "id": 298437, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 80, "len_tokens": 101, "text": "Plugged right in where the old timer went.  The Dryer would not automatically shut off, nor would it begin to heat.  The heat part is not always related to the timer however it can be a culprit.  When I disassembled the old timer I noticed a broken metal piece of the switch that was not connecting to close a circuit.  This item is a direct replacement for dryers with timers of the same design/number.  It was a Whirlpool replacement part.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 983, "id": 553659, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 92, "len_tokens": 104, "text": "This oven was delivered within the promised time period, it did have a dent on one side. Since the dent would be hidden by the cabinets, I have let this issue  slide. The instruction manual for use of the oven was missing and I have called Support to have one sent to me. Online, I was able to download the instructions.  The oven works wonderfully and looks good. Setting the clock is not obvious and I had to look at the instructions. The rest of the controls worked and are easily understood.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 984, "id": 427161, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 122, "text": "I ordered these because I had junk falling into the cracks between the stove and the cabinets. I didn't like them because they were very wide and just didn't look good to me.  I contacted the company and the customer service rep told me it was OK to cut them to the size I liked. She sad use ruler and scissors but I used my quilt cutter and cutting board. It worked very well and I got very straight edges. I discovered I didn't like the black color so I ordered the white ones and really love having them .  If you are a neatnik you will love this product!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 985, "id": 101496, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 150, "len_tokens": 182, "text": "I bought the dryer door reversal kit used.  It was in a sealed bag, accessories and instructions included.  It took me about an hour to do the project since you have to completely disassemble and re-assemble the door. I only had trouble putting the door handle area back together.  The instructions and illustrations are basic and leave a few questions unanswered. Some screws just turned in their holes, not grabbing anything on the other side even before taking the door all the way apart.  I installed the kit and it works fine.  The handle part is still off kilter,but the door works fine.  On the funny side, I did end up with 2 extra screws--must have been from the inside--and when I picked the door up to install it, another screw fell out.  I'm not concerned as I am sure the door is solidly put together and works well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 986, "id": 111223, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 83, "len_tokens": 100, "text": "My chest freezer has been emptied and disconnected for home renovation. By the time I installed it in new location after weeks, there was a disgusting odor coming out. I cleaned the freezer by lemon, baking soda, but is still smelly! I stuffed newspaper in the freezer and it doesn't help. Finally, I read about the odor elimination by activated charcoal, so I ordered the freezer deodorizer to absorb the bad odor. It's like magic, the bad smell is all gone in days!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 987, "id": 91489, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 136, "len_tokens": 186, "text": "I ordered the \"Stanco 4 Pack Universal Electric Range Porcelain Black Reflector Bowls.\"  Shipping was fast and packaging was as expected.  The two small bowls fit nicely but the 2 large bowls were too small.  There is only one cutout for the burner leg across from the connector opening, no cutouts for the two side legs, as pictured.  The picture also shows that the one cut out is completely open but in fact there is a small portion of metal between the lip and bowl.  Measurements:  Small bowl circumference - outer edge 7.5\", inner edge (for burner 6.375\")  Large bowl circumference - outer edge 9.5\", inner edge (for burner 8.125\").  You'll also notice a differences in the pictures of the 4 bowls together and the 1 picture of the \"Stanco\" bowl. Returning for a refund.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 988, "id": 65036, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 112, "len_tokens": 133, "text": "This thing works GREAT!  I have a 3 story townhouse with the laundry on the third floor venting through the attic and out to the roof. Im not permitted to go on the roof, but I was able to go into the attic and disconnect the vent from up there. The amount of lint that this little tool pulled out was just ridiculous!  It spun great on my cordless drill and in just under an hour, my dryer vent which clearly had never been cleaned ( I recently bought the townhouse), was clean as a whistle!  Very little effort and MUCH less expensive than calling a vent cleaning company.  WELL worth the $30!!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 989, "id": 347307, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 127, "text": "I was a bit disappointed that Maytag stopped making the filter for my current fridge. I use the fridge water all the time and don't mind paying extra for a first party filter, but the only listings on Amazon are quite exorbitant. I took a chance on this third party filter and honestly the quality is really good. The fit was perfect and flushing it out didn't yield much, if any, particles in the water. I've been using this filter now for a couple of weeks and the water has no taste, which is a good thing. Definitely a good product and an admirable replacement to the factory Maytag filters.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 990, "id": 73553, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 146, "len_tokens": 178, "text": "We brought this product for Christmas cheer and it failed to excite.  Actually, it was wonderful for the first two or so uses.  Thereafter, the ice seemed to get \"stuck\" inside the unit.  In other words, the mechanism inside the crusher does not grab the ice and the ice just spins around inside.  The unit then requires serious agitation to get the ice to grind and come through the dispenser, which may damage the machine.  We find that the only way to get this to work is to throw one piece of ice in at a time lengthwise, rendering the funnel at the top completely useless.  Also, there are no variable settings for the ice, so it only crushes ice to one size.  We worked in this way for about two weeks and then the machine just stopped grinding completely.  This is now a throwaway item.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 991, "id": 182512, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 150, "len_tokens": 184, "text": "The little metal plate does more than accumulate moisture, it also cools the drink down, but it doesn't make it \"Refrigerator Cold,\" but it still works. I also made a little discovery: If you have an outlet adapter with USB slots, this thing works when you plug it up to it, you don't have to plug it up to your computer! Just thought I would add that in, because not everyone has enough desk space for even this little gadget. Wish it would say what the 'one' side of the switch does though...\n\nIf you're looking to stay subtle, or you're not ready for a mini-fridge due to how very little space you've got for one, then stick with this simple drink cooler. Again, don't get your hopes up by thinking this has the same cooling capabilities as a fridge, in logic, that's like comparing Pluto's size to Jupiter.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 992, "id": 364732, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 97, "len_tokens": 116, "text": "I just opened the package yesterday as my new stove was just delivered to my house.  I have not yet \"put them to use\" as I haven't used my stove yet, but I have put them in their proper place.  They fit perfectly, they look like nice, and I believe they will get the intended job done.  When they pulled out my old stove I was shocked at all the food that had fallen between the space of stove top and countertop.  It was a pretty nasty sight.  I hope I don't ever have that problem again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 993, "id": 297220, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 133, "len_tokens": 170, "text": "Do NOT buy this dishwasher.  Had professionally installed and completely failed on 4th wash.  I thought the negative reviews were a fluke.  They are not a fluke.  Mine had an \"LE\" code on the 4th wash.  That means a stupid tech has to come out and the electricity to the dishwasher has to be shut off at the junction box.  With two kids right before labor day weekend.  $800.00 dishwasher that lasts less than a week.  It is outrageous that Samsung is so incompetent.  They really, really need to get hammered in a class action so they actually start having a corporate spine and corporate character that they should've had in the first place to put reasonably researched and tested products on the market.  ARGH!  Samsung does NOT deserve your hard earned money.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 994, "id": 488669, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 106, "len_tokens": 120, "text": "Love the clean lines and functionality of this hood. Not the quietest when you look at sones but a great value for the money. Unfortunately we had to remain ductless but at least due to my research I now know you need to replace the charcoal filter once in a great while! Hood includes the initial filter. Handyman installed the hood without an issue, though there's definitely a trick to getting the bulbs seated (combo of suction cup use with a final twist by fingers did the trick). Those halogen bulbs ARE hot though. Anyone know if the bulbs can be purchased as LEDs instead?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 995, "id": 58878, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 125, "len_tokens": 153, "text": "Product allows for more air flow, which is it's function. Only negative is, you will lose connection at wall, when you move dryer. Seal will be reestablished when fitting is pushed back into wall, this probably requires being able to reach the connection. As long as you don't need to move dryer for any reason, everything is good. Also, I could not fit wall flange flat against wall, it sticks out about 1/2 inch. I have an elbow in wall that will not push back far enough to allow flange to fit flat. Not that big a deal, with dryer in place, you probably won't see it. With the greater air flow than the plain flex duct I replaced, the clothes dry in shorter time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 996, "id": 37072, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 90, "len_tokens": 109, "text": "I would not have bought this brand of disposer had I known how horrible this replacement splashguard would be. It does not even want to let water through when I turn on the faucet!  Then, when I try to push food through, I must push very hard with a utensil and then when I pull back the splashguard comes out!  The plastic is very stiff and is not flexible at all,  and feels cheap.  The splashguard that came with the disposer was fine. I wonder why replacement is so horrible?", "label": 0}
{"sid": 997, "id": 120311, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 128, "text": "I have had this washing machine for almost a year.  It is by far the worst washing machine I have ever owned.  All of my other washing machines have been second hand and worked much better than this one\n\nThis machine takes at least an hour to wash any load, then it's up to the machine's computer to determine whether it will spin dry or not.  It doesn't seem to matter whether it is a light load or a heavy load.  Often it will not spin and I have to hang wring my clothes before I hang them out to dry.\n\nDo not buy this machine.  You will be sorry.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 998, "id": 57432, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 104, "len_tokens": 128, "text": "I bought this based on the high ratings and reviews.  They're all true.  It couldn't have worked better.  Used it to clean my dryer vent (from inside the house w/shop vac) and it made a HUGE difference.  No more heat or dryer smell seeping back into the house.  It worked great with my cordless drill but also worked well by hand without the drill.  It made the vent cleaning EASY and almost fun getting all that lint out of the vent pipe going up inside the wall.  The hardest part was moving the dryer out and back in (which wasn't a big deal).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 999, "id": 550755, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 96, "len_tokens": 125, "text": "I had one of these. Beautiful and great idea but bad appliance. After 7 repairs for various issues (each taking weeks to fix...first they come and diagnose, then order parts. Wait a few weeks for the parts and THEN they fix it)...it crapped out again. They came to diagnose. They ordered parts. Back ordered...so delay. Three weeks late, still delayed.....cant get parts. Five weeks later....I am told they cant get the parts. Warranty bought me out at a pro rated rate. I was glad to get rid of it. Beautiful piece of junk. And EXPENSIVE.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1000, "id": 44881, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 92, "len_tokens": 108, "text": "Good little machine. Hoping this one lasts longer than 2 years. I have had 3 of these now. Each time they last 2 years and then quit working. It is always past the warranty date. I use this in my office so that I can have iced tea during the day. I would like to hope this one will last a lot longer but I don't hold out much hope. However, they are relatively inexpensive if you get them on sale so still cheaper than buying iced drinks from a business nearby.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1001, "id": 5252, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 98, "len_tokens": 123, "text": "The filters I received were BestAir HW500 (1 of 4 was in the original box). They have a metal shell versus plastic on the original Honeywell HAC504. I returned them and received another set of filters which were again the same filters(HW500) I believe. They had no original box and the shell was metal, which can easily scratch its housing and stimulate mold growth in humidifier.\nIt is also sad that I saw another review  sent on October 2007 about similar problem(purchased as HAC504, received different) for the same item purchased from Allergy Be Gone.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1002, "id": 278717, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 102, "len_tokens": 119, "text": "It absolutely amazes me how much more inexpensive these are on amazon compared to other places, but that's a side note.  The real beauty is removing the old ones and putting these in and feeling the glory of a job well done.  It took a little time to remove the motor on the washing machine just because of the confined space it's in, but after a little elbow grease I was finally able to swap these out.  These are much stronger than the stock/OEM versions because of the metal reinforcement in the center.  I guess, they took notice and fixed the flaw.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1003, "id": 97871, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 123, "text": "I use it as a stand alone maker. It has a nice appearance and does not require installation under the counter. The only thing I recommend is to buy the \"John Guest Ice Maker Installation Kit\" and use the connectors in the kit and not the one supplied with the ice maker. It makes plenty of ice and is actually a quite system.\n\nUpdate: Been using it and still love it. The only new thing I found on it is that it needs to be defrosted after about a month so that the mechanism doesn't jam with ice pieces. It makes plenty of ice and I would still recommend it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1004, "id": 329513, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 96, "len_tokens": 112, "text": "Nice ice maker but mine has a few hiccups. The clock gains about 1 minute everyday. So in a month's time it runs 30 minutes fast. The machine does not always follow the timer settings. The timer function works, but the machine might kick on at any time, day or night. Neither of these are major problem for me since I have a watch to look at and ice is always in demand at my house. A few extra cubes won't go to waste and if we don't catch them they melt back into the reservoir.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1005, "id": 51130, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 105, "len_tokens": 123, "text": "Hi, I own two of these. One for my rental property and the other for my house. I bought the first one 3-4 years ago for the rental apartment and knock on wood, haven't had problems with it yet. It was the only one I could find small enough for the property, which is a studio apartment. So, I bought one to use in my house. I'm an avid cook so the refrigerator always is full of ingredients. Even as my only fridge, I find its size adequate for me a single person. This has been a very good value for its style and quality.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1006, "id": 81343, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 136, "len_tokens": 171, "text": "Not a big problem installing this.  To gain access to the underside of the cooktop I put this on, there are only 2 screws - open the oven door and they are on the underside of the corners to the cooktop.  Then you can lift the cooktop up.  There are two wiring connectors - one on the left and one on the right at the rear of the cooktop.  Then unscrew the ground wire.  The whole cooktop is then free to move to the workbench.  The burner's spades were oriented a bit differently but they still fit the wire (two larger spades, two smaller spades.  I figured that since it was AC power, it wouldn't really matter which wire plugged in where, as long as I fastened them into their appropriately sized spades on the burner.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1007, "id": 522427, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 124, "len_tokens": 167, "text": "I purchased this panel, our second now, in July of 2017.  As of November 10, 2017 it has failed again.  I called Whirlpool and according to their rep named Ola they do not offer ANY warranty on their parts whatsoever.  Only on complete new units.  I guess its too much to ask that a part at least last for one year before it quits.\n\nBut, this being said, Amazon has stepped up and offered a new unit.  Whirlpool said they would do the same, for $180.00 or so plus shipping.  Waiting to see when it will ship, as obviously when the panel goes bad the unit is basically just a big useless cabinet.  Thank you Amazon.  Whirlpool, if you're reading this, thanks for nothing.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1008, "id": 136430, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 162, "len_tokens": 195, "text": "I have been using this filter for a few years now and it seems fine to me.  It fit my Sears/Kenmore fridge OK.  It is made in Canada which is a plus compared to most other non OEM filters which are made in China.  So far I have found only one similar filter from China that is certified by the Water Quality Association (WQA) the EcoBlueLife model EBL7770 but it is only certified for Aesthetic Chlorine reduction not other harmful toxins like lead or mercury.  Therefore all the non OEM filters made in China that I found here at Amazon are not certified by the WQA for reduction of harmful toxins although I may have missed some. The Swift Green SGF-M9 is listed as certified by the WQA however, I found nothing from the seller RPI Distribution listed on the WQA website.  There is a question there but I have to order another filter now and I will go with this one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1009, "id": 430546, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 145, "len_tokens": 170, "text": "We have an old farm house and do not trust the well water for drinking or ice. We have been using a similar unit from Chard for the last 3 years, but the ice dump tray on the Chard unit break ls about every 6 months. I finally had enough of repairing the unit from Chard and decide to try the Della. At $80 less than the Chard unit, the Della looks and performs identical to the Chard. The reviews are correct that the first few batches of ice will need to be thrown out due to a plastic taste, but that will go away in a couple of batches. The unit consitantly has ice ready and performs exactly as advertised. My hope is that the design flaw in the ice tray breaking in the Chard unit has been corrected in this unit....time will tell.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1010, "id": 137635, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 137, "len_tokens": 159, "text": "I didn't need anything fancy so I didn't care how they looked, only if they functioned. Wow... These things are junk. They do not stay on the stove (if you barely bump or touch them they will fall off) and the metal looking piece around the knob with the temperature/off slides around so it does not line up in the correct spot. You can slide it back to the correct spot, but who wants to mess with that? One more thing, I have a gas stove, and the oven knob started to melt some when in use. For now I super glued the knobs to have something there, but will spend the $20 for decent ones in the store.\n\nOh and to top it off, not eligible for returns. Sounds like the seller knows they are junk.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1011, "id": 71955, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 102, "len_tokens": 124, "text": "The clean up of your racks is most important ...remove the decay, rust and be prepared to layer up the poly-vinyl coats until they rematch thickness of the surrounding spines.  This is not a paint once job.  It will take patience and time.\n\nThe paint is volatile and needs lots of ventilation.\n\nThe tine caps discolour to pink after the first wash, not a big deal as long as they hold up.\n\nOverall worth the investment as long as the dishwasher is in good working order.  Mine is already 14 years old and going strong.  A little TLC goes a long way.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1012, "id": 338122, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 121, "len_tokens": 141, "text": "Overall this has been a very good water bottle for me.\n\nPros: You don't get that slight plastic taste whenever for whatever you drink, the lid seals much better then expected, and it looks great.\n\nCons: The line pattern that's directly on the glass has started to fall off (but this doesn't affect what the bottle does, it's just annoying), This lid does require two handed operation (at first I thought it was the flip top but that issue is on me), I dropped the bottle on it's lid and a piece form the inside broke (but the seal is still fine, just takes a bit to close).\n\nOver all this is a pretty good product. I would recommend it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1013, "id": 452177, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 92, "len_tokens": 117, "text": "One of my vaporizers is the evaporative style - that is a fan blows air through a sponge like material to put water in the air.  I have been very happy with it until it started to smell, and the evaporator \"sponge\" turned black.\n\nI found this Kaz Bacteriological  And ordered it.  My problem is solved.  A few drops of this fluid put in the water and eliminates the bacteria that cause the problem.\n\nThe smell is gone.  The blackness is gone, and the air is now refreshing.  I recommend this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1014, "id": 286704, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 89, "len_tokens": 101, "text": "It's a water filter. I pulled the old one out and then I put the new one in and when I pushed on the lever to get water, water came out. The price is terrific for a product that seems to perform as well as the product I pulled out. I got a 3 pack which supposedly lasts me a year and a half for roughly half the price of 1 OEM. I don't notice a flavor difference, or a pressure difference between original and the new Tier 1.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1015, "id": 103734, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 93, "len_tokens": 109, "text": "I wanted a single fridge for my basement bar, and I really didn't want a dorm fridge.  This has been a good compromise, as it holds both cans and bottles well.  Since I have both wine and cans in there, I don't keep it ice cold, but it's very good at maintaining temperature and it seems like it could get very cold if I set it down lower - I'm on the middle of the dial.\n\nIt did arrive with some scuffs on the top of the door, but in otherwise good condition.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1016, "id": 429062, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 107, "len_tokens": 126, "text": "so far so good with this thing! i wasn't expecting the world with it and i had an understanding of how it works. its like you heated and cooled seats in your car. which is why there is one hiccup with it. it draws a tiny bit of condensation on the cooling coil which collects in the botton no big deal. i live on the road out of a cooler and hate robing the hotel ice machine. this is the perfect alternative. the 12v dc lead gets a little warm, but the 120v ac lead always stays cool. its perfect for what i need it to do!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1017, "id": 466138, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 132, "len_tokens": 168, "text": "I bought a Maytag Bravos dryer style MGDB850WL  The dryer does not thoroughly dry clothes on any preselected cycle choices offered on machine.  I have had the repairman out four times.  Today Maytag told me that the sensor in the machine will read one item in the load as dry, rotate a few more times and then stop.  Therefore, every time I think a load is done, it is still quite wet.  It takes two cycles to dry every load.  A waste of energy!  Since I did not design the dryer I asked them to replace it, and was told to use the one timed dry cycle to make it work.  The sensor is clearly a manufacturer design defect.  Do not buy this dryer as Maytag/Whirlpool refuse to stand behind their product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1018, "id": 125619, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 114, "len_tokens": 140, "text": "My hair looks great when using this brush.  No flyaways, full volume.  I appreciate that it's not too noisy.  It is, however, not comfortable to use unless you have very long fingers.  My hands actually ache from using it, and I'm developing a new callous on my thumb.  I find I need to return to the blow dryer and round brush a couple times a week just to give my hands a break.  Two changes would help to make this air brush worthy of a five-star review:  spin controls that are closer to the narrow part of the handle and a longer cord.  Not everyone has an outlet right in front of the mirror.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1019, "id": 12186, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 130, "text": "I took out the original Lasko filter and put one of these in. Yes it fit, but I observed that I was filling the jug much less each day. With this filter, the machine (Lasko 1128) is struggling to put out 3 gallons a day, while the original Lasko filter was pumping more than 6 gallons a day into the air. I run the machine on medium 24/7. No other factors were changed. I can only conclude that this filter doesn't distribute the water as efficiently as the Lasko filter. From now on, I'll stick with the manufacturer's filter.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1020, "id": 218700, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 143, "len_tokens": 176, "text": "This arrived fast and perfectly by truck.  No hassles and under the counter very quickly.  Connecting the waterline was no problem. I was doing a re-model but actually put this in myself.  It looks every bit the part of a serious ice machine. I ran it for a few cycles to clear out any dust that usually sits in the unit. It started cranking out ice very quickly and filled the bucked in less than 45 mins. Seems like it would easily make 50+ lbs if need be.  I will soon putting it to the test when I have close to 30 beverage-loving friends over. I was considering a Scotsman built-in but just couldn't pass this up at slightly more than half the price.  Absolutely pleased with it so far.  The noise is average for a stand alone ice machine.  Well worth it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1021, "id": 210393, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 119, "len_tokens": 152, "text": "Came home from vacation, and ran too much in the dryer at once.  The big load kept the hot air from traveling through the dryer, and the heater coils got too hot. Modern dryers have cut-off thermal switches and fuses to shut the heat off and prevent a fire.\n\nI looked up my model on-line, and found the 2 cut-offs that are attached to the heater. I actually ordered both, since it's a pain to open up some dryers, and for a few extra bucks, it's worth it.\n\nIt took me 2+ hours to change them out, but that is because my dryer requires the top/food/front/drum to be removed to reach the component.  Still cheaper than a service call!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1022, "id": 115905, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 126, "len_tokens": 151, "text": "Bought as a replacement for a 22 yr old unit in my Whirlpool refrigerator.  Installation was straight-forward although the included instructions were only marginally helpful.  I found it best if you have the old unit out and compare with the new one.  I did have to switch the shut-off bail to the new unit but this was minor.  The old unit was flaking off the coating on the ice tray and ended up as black specs in the cubes.  The product included several power connections to fit various units but I was able to use the existing hookup.\nOvernight the ice bucket was nearly full and no black specs.\nThe unit has only been in service about a week so can't rate it's longevity.\nOverall satisfied.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1023, "id": 433946, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 116, "text": "I have used this in conjunction with a home ventilation system, with one remote outside in a porch and another in the roof cavity. The ventilation system is automatically controlled by temperature, but having a humidity reading allows further refinement manually. Love the colours and set-out of the base station screen. The battery comparrtment cover for remotes is just a click-on thing rather than a screw- on thing with a gasket,so put some tape around the cover if there is a possibility of splashing. Best value for money compared to anything on the NZ market at the moment.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1024, "id": 321874, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 128, "len_tokens": 172, "text": "I would recommend contacting the company (PlumStruck) before ordering this item, so you know what you're getting.  I ordered it because I wanted something like in the picture: a plain backsplash with a brushed surface and mounting holes.  Instead, the finish was mirror-like, and not brushed.  There was a white hem around the sides.  There were no holes.  Also, though the item seemed extremely well packed, one corner was slightly bent, and the finish had a number of scratches.  PlumStruck was great about giving me a refund, and I'm happy to believe that the damage was unusual.  But even undamaged, it wasn't what I wanted.  It weighs around 7 pounds, by the way, which seems to be a normal weight for a backsplash, judging from other web sites.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1025, "id": 353605, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 92, "len_tokens": 103, "text": "We have purchased this filter a few times now, but for some reason the one I purchased through here does not clear. We have already exhausted 20% of the filter status trying to clear the filter like you're suppose to do when you insert the new one and it is still cloudy! We've spent multiple days in a row sitting in front of the fridge to clear the filter and have wasted so much water in the process. We've never had an issue before with this filter. Wish I could return it!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1026, "id": 44977, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 139, "len_tokens": 161, "text": "This unit is fast, quiet enough, and has more than paid for itself in the year we've had it. We used to buy a lot of bagged ice because no one felt like refilling the ice trays, and there was no supply line available for an ice maker in our freezer. This unit works like a champ! Planning ahead by a few hours means we even have plenty of ice for entertaining. I fill gallon zip-locks as the machine fills so it will keep making ice. I find the out-of-water feature doesn't work for me, so I'm careful not to let it run dry. Note that the machine is not chilled apart from the evaporators that make the ice, so you should plan to transfer to a freezer regularly and switch the machine off when you have enough ice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1027, "id": 91576, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 97, "len_tokens": 110, "text": "My wife ordered these last year and they fit perfectly.  This year we needed more and the same product number and even had the \"You purchased this item on\" message but what we got wasn't the same item.  It had been a while since this order was placed so instead I just gave them to Goodwill and will be purchasing locally instead.\nIf you do buy them make sure they fit after getting the package and don't let them sit on the shelf.  Even if you bought them in the past the new ones may not work.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1028, "id": 524680, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 94, "len_tokens": 157, "text": "DO NOT BUY!!  DEFECTIVE MOUNTING METHOD.  THE ANCHOR SCREWS PROVIDED ARE NOT HEFTY ENOUGH TO SUPPORT THE RANGE HOOD WEIGHT.  POSSIBLY THE HOLE THEY ASK YOU TO DRILL BEFORE INSERTING CHEAP PLASTIC ANCHORS IS TOO BIG.  ALSO, THE LIGHTS ARE IN THE REAR AND SHINE THE LIGHT CLOSER TO THE WALL THEN THE COOKTOP WHERE THE LIGHT IS NEEDED.  COMPANY VERY DIFFICULT TO DEAL WITH REGARDING RETURNS OF ACCESSORIES.  I NEEDED AN EXTENSION DUE TO MY CEILING HT.  THEY ARE GIVING ME A HARD TIME.  DO NOT BUY COSMO.  TERRIBLE COMPANY TO DEAL WITH.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1029, "id": 47489, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 90, "len_tokens": 100, "text": "Going to school away with your mom is really a big deal for me. My mother used to take care of me and she always remind me to take care of my hair because thats what she did too when she was young. My hair before used to be straight and hair-fall free.\nBut now as time changes, I just comb my hair simply. After finding this hair straightener I just felt the same just like the days with my mom for my hair becomes straighter and smoother back again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1030, "id": 2508, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 81, "len_tokens": 100, "text": "This thing is great.  it is -10 outside and you could feel it in my dryer with my standard flapper.  I put this on and started the dryer. It blew the top off the first time (user error).  It stopper the cold like it is designed to.  It is easy to clean if needed.  I have done about 30 loads so far no problems.  the plastic does look brittle, and it does need painted to prevent breakdown from UV light.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1031, "id": 180766, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 164, "len_tokens": 193, "text": "I bought this as a replacement for a GE 18\" dishwasher and I have to say that I am very impressed by it's performance. The ONLY reason I am giving it 4 stars is it's price. Smaller units shouldn't cost more than larger units. Period. That said, I couldn't be happier. I find that I'm using less detergent and getting better results. One of the previous reviews for this machine mentioned that the utensil basket was a bit wonky. It is in that it comes with dividers for each piece but I've found that the divider and handles can be removed so you don't have to bother with that if you don't want it. You can also make the single basket into two. I like that I have this option. The machine has two spray arms for better cleaning top. Wonderful for getting things clean on the top rack. I do wish it were quieter but all in all this is a wonderful machine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1032, "id": 462077, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 152, "len_tokens": 186, "text": "I really was happy about the purchase of this washer, until I actually used it. I thought I had made a good choice because Consumer Reports tests showed that it left clothes cleaner than other washers in this price range. I can honestly say I've never seen anything like it! The clothes were clean.  Unfortuantely, they were also shredded.  Towels and large items washed fine, but delicates or even lightweight tees don't do well.  The machine is just too harsh.  The clothes end up twisted and sometimes even torn. I decided to try a few things including distributing the clothing more evently or adding less clothing per load.  Nothing solved the problems. If you want clean but shredded or torn clothing, then this machine is for you.  If you prefer to wear your clothing more than once, go for a different washer. I returned this machine less than a month after purchase.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1033, "id": 47937, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 121, "len_tokens": 151, "text": "I just love Miss Jessie's Curly Pudding!!!  It's the only thing that i have used that keeps my curls from frizzing.  I hate spending a lot of money on styling products but this is so worth the money.  I originally bought it at Target for $22 for an 8 oz jar.  Glad I checked on here before buying it again at Target as it is such a better deal on here.\n\nFor anyone who is complaining about this product making their hair dry, brittle, flakey......you are using way to much!! I have thick, curly shoulder length hair and I don't use more then about a teaspoon amount on my hair.  I run it through my hair and let it air dry.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1034, "id": 45222, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 142, "len_tokens": 169, "text": "This will go down as one of my best purchases this year!  I ordered this for our bar and it works like a charm.  It is small enough to fit on a bar shelf (of course that is case specfic) and I did notice that if it gets too hot in the room (way too many people) or is too close to something that blocks the fan, it took longer to make ice or stalled. My husband installed a shelf on sliders, and I slide it out and in as needed.  When it got too hot in the room, I unplugged/replugged it, pushed start and it fired right up.  I am so loyal to this machine now, that even if it breaks, I will order another.  There is a lot to be said about having all the necessities available for cocktail hour.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1035, "id": 333407, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 95, "len_tokens": 108, "text": "Packaging was fantastic. They could have dropped the box from an airplane and it would have landed intact. I have had the fridge for 4 months and it is quiet and keeps beverages cold. The long power chord was helpful for using this fridge within a cabinet space. The light works perfectly. There are no condensation issues. The temperature is just right for keeping beer and soda cold. I turn it down before a party to get the beer really cold, and then set it back to normal. I highly recommend this brand and fridge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1036, "id": 123504, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 88, "len_tokens": 108, "text": "I just received my drip pan replacements and can't comment on the wear or durability.  However, ANYTHING is an improvement for my horrendously cheap and inefficient Tappan stove (read: do NOT waste your money on a Tappan appliance; spend a bit more for something not quite so dirt cheap).  The black drip pans fit perfectly and look considerably better than the chrome ones that came with it.  I hope that they are easy to clean than the originals, but at this point, I can't be disappointed anymore!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1037, "id": 354086, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 90, "len_tokens": 109, "text": "I bought this for my Samsung Front load dryer model number dv218aew/xaa and just let me say I'm really glad that I did!  I couldn't believe the price compared to appliance part store, one lady wouldn't even tell me the price because she embarrassed how high. She is the one recommended buying from the Internet.  If your dryer is making a squeaky noise more than likely that's what it is, and pretty simple to put in and of you have trouble there's how to videos on YouTube that helps alot.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1038, "id": 225372, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 154, "len_tokens": 182, "text": "After reading many reviews and questions it seems like I wasn't alone with a non working icemaker. I must admit, I was a bit skeptical, but here I am, with a cold drink in hand and full of ice once again. It worked!\nMany thanks to all who responded to my questions. And thanks to Amazon for offering this part. It was an easy swap and the filling tube everyone was talking about was a no brainer. Just flip it towards you as you're sliding the new unit in.\nFor the record my 12y/o is a Kitchen-Aid side by side. The original part did not have one bit of coating peeling off the ice tray.\nThe motor must have given up because I couldn't find a single other thing wrong. It looked like the day the factory installed it.\nAnd this new part was a perfect match. I'd say the price was very fair.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1039, "id": 307369, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 117, "len_tokens": 139, "text": "Love this dryer, don't judge but I bought so I do not have to lug laundry from basement everyday.  It is in spare room on the same floor as every bedroom is so I just pick up clothes, wash, dry, no steps.  Big stuff goes down to the basement to the regular washer/dryer.  I like that it has a \"cool\" or air dry setting so that it does not heat up the room but obviously that takes much longer and I have not had it long enough to see the utility bill effect.  As long as you don't overload it, clean the filter, and give it plenty of room to vent this is a great little dryer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1040, "id": 150075, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 81, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "If every thing on your dryer works but its just not heating up, your heating element is the culprit.  Works perfect......extended the life of my dryer.  While your installing it, vacuum out all the lint from the interior.  Make sure your unplugged first.  Very simple to install.  Watch the videos on youtube.  You don't have to go in from the back.  Just remove the front panel and you'll be fine.  Make sure you clean the vent to the outside as well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1041, "id": 530309, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 162, "len_tokens": 180, "text": "These bearings are nice but the installation was very difficult due to insufficient space I had to work with and because the factory installed the belt drive with red thread lock, I had a very hard time removing it. My model was a Frigidaire and I spent 3hrs trying to remove the main bolt holding the drive belt wheel. I broke multiple bits and I ended up cutting my Alan wrench to about 2\" and using it with an impact to finally get it loose. For a newbie like me this was not the easiest project. Bearings came out easy using a bucket to support tub, new ones went in easy as well with patience. Unit runs well now but I don't think I would do it again mainly because it was in a very small space and not the easiest to work around Also the tub was not accessible through the back, mine came out through the front. Hope this helps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1042, "id": 90397, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 94, "len_tokens": 110, "text": "If by \"Universal\" the manufacturer meant these knobs fit all gas stoves equally, then they must not fit any.  They certainly didn't fit our major-brand stove and they might not fit yours.  To add insult to injury, after receiving these I found the very same item on closeout at a local store for 99 cents.\n\nTwo stars because the knobs are reasonably well-made and come with accessory sleeves to make them not fit in more than one way (or perhaps -- one would hope -- to make them fit some other unknown brands).", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1043, "id": 67852, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 136, "text": "Not a lot to say about this item, other than (1) it fits, (2) it looks good, and (3) it works as intended, i.e. it lets the water and small food particles drain out of the sink and into the garbage disposal, while keeping the larger food particles and silverware in the sink. As noted by the manufacturer, this item is not intended as a sink stopper. If you use the setting that stops up the sink, the water will slowly but gradually drain out anyway.\n\nThis item looks good, fits well, and save my garbage disposal from chomping on my silverware, and for that I'm truly grateful.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1044, "id": 333736, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 114, "text": "While this new clutch fixed the washing machine, the instructions regarding which spring to use in the clutch weren't very clear.  The instructions referenced a black and a blue spring, while what was actually there was a light blue and a dark blue spring.  The instructions stated that the clutch came with the blue spring installed, while it actually came with the dark blue spring installed.  I ended up installing the other spring (the light blue appeared to be the heavier spring) and everything seems to work fine, but the supplied springs didn't match the description in the instructions.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1045, "id": 516766, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 162, "len_tokens": 187, "text": "I love this machine!!!  It make ice like crazy.  But it did start getting a little bit noisy after about a month but it is nothing I can't live with.  I thought about sending it back and getting one that make clear ice, but I have found out with trail and error that you can make clear ice in this machine if you use purified water.  Not filtered water, not spring water,and not tap water, but purified water.  But even then there will be a small area at the tip that is still white.  But it is about 80% clear and I can live with that.  I would recommend this to anyone who uses a lot of ice.  It does come out wet.  I put it in a bag and freeze it while the next batch in making and the break it up and put it in the ice tray and then repeat the process with the next batch of ice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1046, "id": 329627, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 162, "len_tokens": 185, "text": "I got the Ice Maker two days ago, I was So So excited because we don't have a Ice Maker in our Fridge, I first sat down and read the Instructions, followed them the best I could. I found them Very Very confusing. Plugged in machine, waited a 30 mins to let Machine settle and set the Clock, set the size of ice, I choose Small because the instructions said small ice would be the fastest, added my water and started, waited n waited about half hour later I got a few little hollow bulletts of ice, so waited n waited for more, hour n half later still just a few more. So my gut feelings told me to pack this Machine back up and send it right back. So I did. All I can say is Good Luck if someone gets a Machine that works right!!!!! Wish mine would have because I loved the size of machine, and realm needed it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1047, "id": 152161, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 121, "len_tokens": 143, "text": "The customer service rep at Whirlpool would not price match this part because she said it was third-party and would not come with the same warranty.  It came in a sealed box that said right on the outside Whirlpool Corporation Factory Certified Parts.  A friend and I were able to change it by using this video:\n\n[...]\n\nMy washer is slightly different from this in the front so it wasn't exactly the same but we were able to figure it out. The hardest part was getting the spring clamp back on.  This was a lot cheaper than ordering directly from Whirlpool and I had it overnighted for $9 (I'm a prime member so it might be more if you're not).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1048, "id": 321956, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 105, "len_tokens": 123, "text": "After finally deciding ice trays are a major pain, bought this little darling in December and over 400 lbs of ice later, it just keeps putting out ice.  I purchased a box of 8 lb ice bags, fill 3 when making ice and store in the freezer.  As stated previously, the ice drops into a basket which is insulated, so you have to shake the water out prior to placing in the bag and putting in the freezer.  When I need ice, I merely bounce the bag on the counter a couple of times to break-up the ice and it's ready for any size container.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1049, "id": 74742, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 146, "text": "I've tied the outdoor sensor in the shade of a tree-limb ... and the temperature results look spot-on to me i.e. the temperature seems consistent with local weather reports.  Here in WY, I've seen some amazingly (to me) low humidity readings ... as low as 1%; `don't know if such low humidity readings could be accurate (or not) ?\n\nThe inside display fonts are large enough to read without glasses (e.g. easy Readers) ... NICE ... and from a fair distance, say 10 feet, for example.\n\nSo, I'm happily entertained with this inside/outside weather reporting ... and, yes, I'd buy another, if something happened to it - no hesitation.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1050, "id": 444635, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 82, "len_tokens": 106, "text": "Bought a Waterdrop DA29-00020B filter a while back and every time we used the refrigerator water dispenser it made a groaning noise like the the water pump motor was having an issue. We assumed it was the refrigerator. I bought the same Waterdrop filter as a replacement and the groaning noises were gone. This time I bought the Waterdrop Plus DA29-00020B and the groaning noises are back. I sent an email to the seller and didn't receive a response. Bad customer service!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1051, "id": 243469, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 125, "text": "We love this Shampoo. The smell isn't as fresh as the cream rinse, it is more a bubblegum smell. I would prefer the other scent. But this Shampoo has helped our dogs skin more than anything else we have tried. Our six year old border collie has developed itchy flaky skin, and he is also obsessive about itching, so he pulls his hair out. His skin looks less inflamed and less flakey when we wash him with this. If we do it regularly, it helps a lot. Very gentle, as shampoos that we used before made his skin worse.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1052, "id": 9309, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 79, "len_tokens": 100, "text": "I was wondering why I just didn't feel well after a night of using my humidifier with this product in it.  I'd wake up feeling like I had bad allergies or a cold (head stuffed, nose clogged and a general, tired feeling).  Plus, I don't understand why this company charges so much.  It costs $6.99 in stores and on other websites. I think a drop or two of Calgon water softener might prove safer than this toxic product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1053, "id": 314265, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 82, "len_tokens": 102, "text": "Pretty straight forward.  Ordered the part, got it within a week, installed, clean clothes.  It's supposed to be all plastic by the way, it's a part that is designed to fail so that the more expensive parts don't break when things go wonky.  Even if you replaced it once a year, with the low cost and ease of installation (never having done it it took me all of 20 mins.), it is worth not shelling out for a new motor or gearbox.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1054, "id": 182773, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 144, "len_tokens": 180, "text": "After a lot of searching, we finally found a slide-in double oven!  We were thrilled.  It took a full three weeks to get this oven because it is a new product.  We have had it two weeks now and I love it!\n\nPros: sleek, looks good when clean and cooks well. We love that we don't have to turn on a whole oven to cook a pie--a real energy saver!\n\nCons: a lot of cleaning to get it to look sleek and more importantly, beware when cleaning stovetop.  If you ever so slightly lean on the control panel with buttons, you will turn the stovetop on.  Any pressure at all will turn the stove on.  I have noticed, however, if you do nothing, it will turn off on its own.\nToo new to say for certain so this might be a consideration when purchasing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1055, "id": 126391, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 88, "len_tokens": 104, "text": "I bought this product at walmart a year ago and LOVE IT. I have very fine, color treated, shoulder length hair.  I don't use this as a blow dryer, I still do that separately but I use the spin brush right after its dry.  My hands are no longer tired from trying to curl the back or get the right flip, I just let the  brush do all the work for me and I am done in just minutes with straight, full bodied hair.  I love this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1056, "id": 478864, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 154, "len_tokens": 183, "text": "Residential users beware.  We spent hours reviewing this frig and designing a cabinet to utilize it.  The specification sheet said that it has reversible doors but we found out from the Metalfrio that the ones they have in stock now are only right hinged.  The final thing that broke the deal however is the Warranty.  At the end of all of our research we were told by one of the places that sells the unit that the warranty only covers commercial use.  I though this information could not be true so I checked with the Metalfrio.  They verified that it is in fact the truth, only commercial customers are covered.  Not even parts are covered for residential use.  If the thing arrives DOA you ate it, because most of the sellers will not accept returns and the manufacturer does not provide any warranty for residential use.  Guess I will start shopping and designing again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1057, "id": 287803, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 161, "len_tokens": 180, "text": "i ordered these about a year ago, and I ordered the same thing about a year and a half before that.  They have always worked until just now. i used the first of the three pack and it worked fine.  But the second one leaked right away.  So I put in the third one and it leaked right away too.  I thought the part of the fridge that the filter goes into must have gone bad.  But I put the bypass filter that comes with the fridge in and it didn't leak. So I swapped the black ring washer between the filter and the bypass and now the filter does not leak.  I can see that the washer that came with the filter is just the slightest bit thicker than on the one that came on the bypass so that must be the cause of the leaking.  It seems like other brands have this same problem too from reading their reviews.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1058, "id": 1461, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 111, "len_tokens": 139, "text": "While these fit older model humidifiers, they don't work nearly as well as the original filter--which are no longer made. I've used many varieties of filters that say they are the same as the originals. They're not. The originals were more like cloth and could be washed out a few times, then used again. They also didn't collect yucky stuff as quickly as the newer ones.  The newer ones don't last as long, are cheaply made, and are a lot more expensive.\n\nWhile this one works and meets needs, it's vastly inferior to the original product, and is pretty much a moneky sink, as it will need to be replaced monthly.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1059, "id": 200075, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 118, "text": "Bought this in May 9 of 2014, I write this now September 1st, the door tab broke off. I don't know if the OEM part is a more durable plastic, but the replacement one is GARBAGE. It snapped clean off like it was brittle and heat damaged. I use this thing daily, normal cycle. It fit my Whirlpool model DU1055XTPS4 no problem - all plugs fit. However, I'm tired of dealing with this problem. Clearly a design flaw since whirlpool updated the design on the newer models.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1060, "id": 482404, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 114, "len_tokens": 121, "text": "I like this item so far what I like most is that it turns itself off, I hope this will help it last much longer than the previous items that I have purchased. And another thing I believe is this as soon as I lift the lid, it seems to want to make ice or throw the ice it has already made into the basket so its pretty efficient in that respect if I lift the lid it seems to fill the basket no more or less and shuts off. So far its perfect for my family needs since we live in arizona we like to have ice for cold drinks. Thanks Mike Quintana", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1061, "id": 144415, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 132, "len_tokens": 149, "text": "The clutch kit was exactly what I needed and arrived at my home within a few days of ordering.  After having it installed for over a week, I already notice a difference in the sound and the performance in my washer.  It was easy to install and I did not have any installation issues whatsoever.  I did not have to change out the spring in the clutch to the light duty spring so I can't tell you how that goes.  As far as the instructions given in the kit, I didn't use them and searched for a \"How To\" video on YouTube and that walked me through everything.  I would recommend this to anyone wanting to buy this kit and not having to spend your life savings to fix your own washer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1062, "id": 154010, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 83, "len_tokens": 106, "text": "Easy fix for my dryer.  If your dryer isn't heating, replace this yourself if you are able.  Look up the installation on YouTube.  Once you get to the hidden clips, the dryer comes apart easily.  Note: There is a belt tension contraption under the dryer drum.  It falls down after you take the belt off, so pay attention to the setup before releasing the belt.  This little device is cheap and simply plugs in.  You will need a few wrenches and a screwdriver.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1063, "id": 181336, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 124, "len_tokens": 142, "text": "Do not put too much soap in; it'll take FOREVER to rinse.\nIf you have to carry the clothes to where you plan to hang them it's going to get messy, a spin drier is pretty much a necessity with this in my book.\n\nPersonally, I place it in the tub and use a moveable showerhead to fill.  Mine is a perfect length so I can stick it in, turn it on and walk away for a few minutes and it fills right up!\nWhen I need to empty I just move it to the back of the tub and pop the tube off, do something else for a minute or two, come back and either refill to rinse or start pulling stuff out!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1064, "id": 3088, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 94, "len_tokens": 110, "text": "As an expectant mother, I have been cleaning all of my new baby products.  I quickly realized that I needed something to put pacifiers and smaller items in, so I could just throw them in the dishwasher.  These baskets are perfect for this.  I bought this product with a drying tree, so I could just put the bottles and products on the drying tree after they come out of the dishwasher, and then I can relax!  These are the kinds of things you never think to register for, but is essential to daily life!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1065, "id": 352098, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 121, "len_tokens": 147, "text": "Once again I had to pull the stove out and clean the food spills from the sides of the oven and the cabinets.  No matter how careful you are there is always some food and liquid that falls down the gap between the stove and counter top.  These seals are about 2 1/4\" wide and since there is only a 1/4 gap between my stove and counter top the seals overlapped the counter by 1 1/2\".  I trimmed 3/4\" off the width using a utility knife and straight edge for a guide which in my case made for a better looking installation.  The gap seals are a soft silicon that is somewhat sticky so they lay flat and stay in place.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1066, "id": 103168, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 96, "len_tokens": 117, "text": "This is a very nice looking unit. It is cheap compared to box stores wanting $350 for practically the same beverage center. Nice functional incandescent light inside. Door seems to bounce open if you aren't careful about closing it securely.  Compressor is a touch loud, but I think all mini refrigerators in this price range will be. The door is reversible. It holds a ton of drinks.  Overall I am pleased with this appliance. Temperature control is on the back.  The Danby emblem is a sticker and I peeled it off easily for a cleaner look.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1067, "id": 436010, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 103, "len_tokens": 121, "text": "Product was delivered quickly as expected, and worked exactly as I anticipated. It resolved the issue we were experiencing on our Whirlpool Cabrio washer machine. It was displaying an sd error code, which indicates too many suds. However, upon running a diagnostic test, it also revealed an additional code f71 which I googled and it lead me to conclude that it indicates a faulty hub, which is the mechanism that operates the tubs spin cycle that rings out water from clothes in completing the wash load. Now my washer is as good as new. No more error codes or hassle while washing laundry.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1068, "id": 19309, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 102, "len_tokens": 121, "text": "I ordered two filters. The first installed made our water taste horrible, it was undrinkable. I called GE and they said \"it might just be a bad one\". At $35 (that is sale price) but regardless of price an item should not be defective. Especially when it involves something consumable, I replaced it with the other filter bought, and that one is fine. Now going through the process to return it to Amazon. As GE will not replace because it was not purchased through them. I ordered the GE because a I didn't want to take any chances on an inferior product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1069, "id": 111529, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 143, "len_tokens": 167, "text": "Originally installed this unit as non-vented but I wasn't thrilled. It was a bit noisy and fumes/steam from cooking on the front burner would be drawn outward versus into the fan...maybe due to negative air pressure caused by fast moving air above the unit. Not a physicist so not sure. Anyways I bit the bullet, since I tried other units and had the same issues. So I cut a whole in the wall and direct vented to the outside. What a difference. The unit is extremely quiet and sucks out air like no tomorrow. Looks good works great. Only complaint is that the flap inside the vent duct - which I guess is  to prevent cold air or vermin from entering the house - made lots of noise when the fan was on medium or high, so I simply removed it. Problem solved.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1070, "id": 209360, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 84, "len_tokens": 101, "text": "the kit was ok but 95% of it I did not need as all of the larger mixing tubes are the same as the 5 that were installed in the stove top at the factory, the only parts I used were the 5 orifice nozzles and this is upsetting to me to see that these kits are sold as (conversion kits) for 4 times the value as all you need for the conversion from natural gas to lp gas is the orifice nozzles. harumph!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1071, "id": 57850, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 171, "len_tokens": 199, "text": "I purchased this tool because I had a very slow dryer, it would take 2 to 3 hours to dry one load. My dryer vent is probably between 18 and 24 feet long, all of which is enclosed inside the wall and ceiling in the laundry room. I was able to clean out the entire vent with the 4 rods included with the kit, by cleaning from the vent on the outside of the house and the access on the inside of the house. I got about 3 grocery bags full of lint out of the vent. Probably 30 years of build up. My dryer time is now down to 45 min a load, rather than 2 to 3 hours. The Lint Eater already paid for itself by reducing the drying time. I highly recommend this to anyone who owns a dryer. You can reduce your dryer time and your energy bill, and also reduce the risk of a dryer FIRE. If I could give this item 10 stars I would.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1072, "id": 345982, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 140, "len_tokens": 161, "text": "So very disappointed in this product. This washer had been sitting in my wish list for a number of months as I had been waiting for the right time to purchase it. I am an apartment dweller with no laundry facilities on site, so I thought that this would really help with the in between trips to the laundromat.\nOn the very first use, I noticed that whenever I plugged in and set the timer, the machine would make a very loud noise as if it were attempting to spin, yet nothing happened.  This continued on throughout the cycle --no spinning, just a loud clanking noise and my articles of clothing just sitting in soapy water - motionless - not being cleaned.\nI've given up on trying to get this thing to work and will be shipping it back ASAP!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1073, "id": 7429, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 94, "len_tokens": 150, "text": "WHEN THE TWO HUMIDIFIER, WE OF COURSE HAD TO BUY THIS, WE TRIED TO USE, BOTH WERE BROKEN AND IT TOOK OVER 2 WEEKS TO RESOLVE, WHEN WE CALLED ESSICK, THEY TOLD US WE HAD TO CONTACT AMAZON, THEN THEY SAID WE HAD TO CALL ESSICK............\n\nWE ALWAYS SHOP AMAZON, PRODUCTS AND PRICES ARE GREAT. COMMUNICATION IS SO IMPORTANT FOR THAT IS WHAT SELLS, WE WILL SHOP AMAZON BUT WILL CHECK OUT OTHER PRODUCT NAMES.\n\nWE WILL BE BACK BUT CAREFUL TO PURCHASE OTHER BRAND NAMES. ITS MY BELIEF ESSICK PRODUCTS HURT AMAZONS REPUTATION..................SANDY", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1074, "id": 534945, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 124, "len_tokens": 152, "text": "I cannot recommend Electrolux appliances, specifically their double ovens. The ICON professional model that I purchased 4 years ago for $3,500 has been an appalling letdown. The hidden bake element in the upper oven failed twice in a 14 month period. The control board, the relay and the temperature probe also had to be replaced. The bake element overheated to the point it melted fiberglass insulation; it also warped the oven lining and caused the porcelain to splinter, neither of which are repairable. Electrolux has advised me that their warranty on this expensive oven is limited to one year. I have never used the self clean feature because of fear of what could happen; the Electrolux representative, advised not to use it either.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1075, "id": 459871, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 120, "len_tokens": 147, "text": "We have just lost our second full freezers worth of food. I shudder to think how much this thing has cost us. Now the repair company told me it needs a new compressor cause it has a freon leak and I've got to spend another $800.00 or $900.00 getting that done but they won't do it. They recommend that I call A&E the factory Whirlpool repair \"service\" but they have awful ratings and I was not happy with them the last time I had to use them. I bought this because i thought the design was great and that's the most frustrating thing about it. It is! It just can't be trusted and neither can Whirlpool to stand behind it!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1076, "id": 193288, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 160, "len_tokens": 188, "text": "The shipping on this product was very good.  As soon as got the range hood I plug it in and tested before installing.  It worked and surprising it was quite at it highest speed.  Installing it was a little complicated only because my house did not have duct work.  The vendor Golden Vantage have pre-package an 8\" duct that did not work for me.  I had to make several trips to Home Depot just get the right ducts.  I'm still not completely finish and missing 6\" duct that connect from the range hood to the duct outside but the range hood is installed underneath my cabinet and I have to say that it look really good and works amazing.\n\nOn the side note - It took me a really long time to install by myself.  You definitely need two people to install this range hood only because it heavy and needed another pair of eyes.  Overall, it's a great product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1077, "id": 340576, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 144, "len_tokens": 171, "text": "Great replacement part and very easy to install. We have a Kenmore 665.13293K115 dishwasher that is only two years old and a few months ago the tabs holding the slider wheels onto the upper rack broke. The upper rack still worked but if you pulled it out more than half way when loaded, the rack would fall and spill dishes everywhere. I ordered this part and it came in two days with Prime. The install only took me about 15 minutes and was very easy, especially after finding a full walkthrough on YouTube. The part is definitely higher quality so hopefully the problem will not recur. It was well worth the $30. Also, I had a T-15 screwdriver bit on hand but if you don't, my box had a Phillips to T-15 adapter so no need to go buy a special tool for this.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1078, "id": 339915, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 161, "len_tokens": 186, "text": "This part does not fit my Whirlpool (model KDFE104Dxxx). I wish it did: it is obviously a better made part.\nTo help those wondering if it will fit their dishwasher model: this kit is for top racks whose adjuster wheels travel INSIDE the sliding rail. If your top rack (like mine) clips onto the edge of the rail and travels WITH the rail then this kit will not work.\nI had no trouble installing the kit but the wheels rode on top of the rails and bumped up against the rail mounts. There was nothing holding the rack down and it would tip over or fall out if pulled too far. Check this against your model before ordering to save some grief. I will have to return this (after reinstalling the broken parts) and order exact replacements for the plastic parts. I can see how these parts are vulnerable to hard use and will be more easy on it now.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1079, "id": 245626, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 92, "len_tokens": 103, "text": "Perfect fit for my dishwasher. I was blaming the detergent and/or the water temp for the dishes and glasses not being cleaned well. Imagine my surprise when I noticed two large holes in the supply hose to the middle spray arm. Initially I tried to find only the hose but found the item to be in short supply and too expensive. I finally opted to purchase this replacement. I'm glad I did. The washer is performing well again and at a very reasonable price. The repair took about 10 minutes to perform.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1080, "id": 542996, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 90, "len_tokens": 109, "text": "These two are the perfect solution for wine as well as canned drinks.  One of the coolers was noisy because the motor was defective.  The company replaced the cooler and paid for the return shipping on the defective one.  Not a problem at all.  These sit in our living room under a bar like cabinet.  Everyone knows were the soft drinks are located and they just help themselves.  Can't believe all the wine the wine cooler holds.  I thought it would not hold that many bottles.  But it did easily.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1081, "id": 190591, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 116, "len_tokens": 144, "text": "I installed the valve myself. After I mounted it on the humidifier, I set my thermostate for the valve to work, and it did perfectly.\n When I inspected the valve, I noticed that there wasn't any parts to attached the valve to the humidifier like screws or bolts.  When I took off the old valve, the nuts from the bolts fell into the humidifier.  I wasn't going to waste my time opening the humidifier and searching for the nuts.  Instead, I got the right size self-tapping screws from my inventory of screws and securely installed the valve with them.  The morale to this story is that the valve should have come with at least self-tapping screws.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1082, "id": 234562, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 151, "len_tokens": 187, "text": "Great replacement for the moldy original gasket in our washer. This one has a design that seems less likely to trap water and gunk in its folds.\n\nIt is a very fussy/difficult fit, and the one I got did not come with the two white and black jobbers shown in the photo. I ended up using chapstick tubes (noted in another review) to hold the spring in place during the final reassembly (watch a YouTube video or two for the process and that will make sense). Also, use a little (not too much!) dish washing liquid to lube the gasket when stretching it over the metal flanges on the washer.\n\nYou may want to replace your drain pump (much simpler job) while you have the beast open. Think of it as preventative maintenance.\n\nAnd, lastly, strong hands. You will need strong hands. And a good 3 hours start to finish.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1083, "id": 127211, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 154, "len_tokens": 197, "text": "Looks and works OK.\nEasy to install.\nThings I don't like:\n1. The fan lights are wayyyy to dim to be functional. You might as not have them for all the good they are.\n  (Sellers does not recommend changing the lights out...it will void your 3 year warranty,\n2. Manufacture states this unit is 30 inches wide; it is actually is 29.5 inch. My overhead cabinet was made to accommodate a 30 inch standard appliance.\n3. Only comes in military time...passe,\n4. The front panel indicator lights are signaled however have different colors,\n  ~~~ The time light is a gaudy orange color.\n  Why the different colors when you have highlighted indications for the functions?\n  I recently purchased five other kitchen appliances and they all have a nice blue background light.\nThis manufacture is still living in the dark ages.\nWhen I have more time I am going to look around to find a replacement.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1084, "id": 212145, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 84, "len_tokens": 100, "text": "This replaced the failing OEM door lock.  To replace it is a matter of removing the LG 4 screws for the back lid, sliding it back and off, and undoing the two door lock screws and disconnecting the electrical connector.  This was 5 minutes from start to finish with a few sheet metal cuts on the fingers.  LG should have put this on their units not the weak one that came with the washer.  Amazon- thank you for carrying this part on your store.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1085, "id": 57898, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 117, "len_tokens": 142, "text": "The Gardus LintEater Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System is well worth the money. It comes with a detailed instruction booklet and the equipment worked as described. My husband installed the protective screen between the vent and the dryer to keep the brush away from the blower motor, removed the vent cover at the other end out back, hooked the LintEater up to his cordless drill, and worked it into the vent segment by segment. Within a few minutes our dryer vent was cleared out and all the lint was piled up in a little pile in the back yard. It worked effectively and flawlessly to clear out our 10-foot-long flexible metal vent--can't ask for better than that.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1086, "id": 470188, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 151, "len_tokens": 182, "text": "I have low expectations today for \"durable\" goods.  This LG is quiet. We are a family of three and it makes enough ice for us. The limiting size of my space and my desire for water and ice through the door limited me even more. I did not want just to replace my old fridge but I wanted an upgrade. This is an upgrade. I love the interior light. I like how the controls display is outside. I really like the freezer on bottom, but this brings me to the only drawback for me. I think this is a drawback to the french door design, not this product inparticular. The contiment space in the doors are limited due to the 1. Icemaker in the door and 2. The freezer in the bottom.  To me it's a tradeoff that is ok and required me to think of how to organize my condiments.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1087, "id": 461827, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 106, "len_tokens": 128, "text": "I have no issue with the exhaust pull, since I have thec1200cfm fan pulling through a 10 inch duct. My problem is that the motor to raise the unit when turned on is too weak to raise the unit. Called service out, he called factory, they said it must not be straight and is binding. We removed the cooktop and made sure the vent was free floating and it still does not work. It will work if I take the filters out, they are quite heavy. Clearly the motor is too weak, but company will not stand behind it. DO NOT BUY CHEAPLY MADE EXPENSIVE PRODUCT", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1088, "id": 13965, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 152, "len_tokens": 170, "text": "when you try to install, you will have to kind of force the metal flange over the the end that connects to the garbuerator, then fit the black rubber gasket and it is ready to connect. For the other end thats hooks to the drain pipe I had to use a different gasket than the one provided(white colour).The gasket I used for the drain end has a bit of an angle and can slide over the pipe to form a good seal once you hand tighten the plastic nut connector. This tube was easy to install and saved me the big hassle of having to re-do all the plastic drain pipes to have them aligned properly. The thickness of the tube seems a bit on the thin side but time will tell if it leaks. I highly recommend this product.\nIts been over 9 years since installing and no problems", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1089, "id": 275144, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 148, "len_tokens": 169, "text": "YAY!  Our washer wasn't spinning properly and we weren't sure why but after much research my husband decided it could be a problem with our pump and we decided to try replacing it before spending more money on having someone come and look at it.  Unfortunately our washing machine was bought second hand, and there was no model number on it that we could find, so we did our best to match the picture with what we have and the brand with the brand we have and lucky for is it WORKED!  Our washer is now working great, and this pump works so quietly!  Thank you for making it easy to order!  We cloth diaper and being able to order this and have it shipped in two days was exactly what we needed.  I hope we have many years of a working washing machine ahead of us.  :)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1090, "id": 346289, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 158, "len_tokens": 189, "text": "I've been using the Wonder Washer for 5 years now and I just had to buy another one a few months ago when the motor finally went.\nIts a very good product foiled by cheap screws that will rust pretty quickly.  As I did with the older one I opened it up and replaced every screw with its stainless steel counterpart from Home Depot.  Hopefully it will last 5 years like the last one.  My mother went through 3 of these in the last 5 years and it was usually the water rusting out one of the electric units on the inside.  This is a design flaw imho or maybe planned obsolescence at play here.  It should have had some water proofing and at least the stainless steel screws.  They are not very expensive.  I will be doing a waterproofing project with it soon.  Overall Id recommend it even with the cheapo screws as it does work GREAT.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1091, "id": 57565, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 144, "len_tokens": 169, "text": "my dryer vent goes 30 ft across house, this product comes with 12 foot reach of rods, I ordered a 12 f extension kit and was able to reach most of the way, then I unhooked dryer and ran through from the other direction. This linteater works GREAT. I tightened fittings with 2 vice grips and taped with duct tape one at a time while running in the vent with dryer on. my vent has not been cleaned in 10 years (only tried blowing out with air) this thing works GREAT. unbelievable amount of lint came out. if your thinking of ordering a vent brush this works order one! Just follow directions and don't try to go high speed with all the fittings attached outside the vent (fiber glass rods will whip around and MAY brake)  you will be surprised how well it works.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1092, "id": 57827, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 141, "len_tokens": 175, "text": "I've owned this for a couple of months now.  Only needed to use it once.  I have a relatively long (approx 8 feet) vent, and found out that my vent was very cheaply assembled.  They used a foil hose inside the wall.\n\nAlbeit, this product still cleaned it out very well. Setting the torque on my drill very low kept it from tearing up the cheap hose.  It loosened and released a TON of lint, but the shop vac just sucked it right up!\n\nI have seen some reviews complaining about plastic joints and the overall cheap design of this product.  I found all joints and screwholes to be made of metal, and seemingly quite durable.  Maybe the design has changed over the years, but mine seems to be of good quality.  Again, I have only used it once of yet.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1093, "id": 118522, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 131, "text": "This filter has lasted since 10/2014.  I just purchased my 2nd filter for the refrigerator that was originally purchased 5/2013.  We drink ALLOT of water and I am the heaviest user of the filtered water.  I constantly refill my 750ml water bottle.  The flow recently slowed and that's when I ordered a replacement.  I am not sure why some reviewers have to change their filter more frequently.  Where I live the water comes from a lake and is purified through the city.  It is hard water that Is almost palatable if it didn't have so much chlorine in it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1094, "id": 319125, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 113, "text": "Works as advertised in Kenmore Coldspot side by side. model 106.51562104. It is a little smaller than OEM but still fits.\nFlushed with a gallon plus of water.\nReset the switch and back to green\nThis unit does not state/claim it removes lead or cysts as the OEM model. This is for basic odor/taste treatment and that is all I really want.  I don't need to pay for the other features.\nTime will tell if truly what is says  - I am sure it will\nShipped quickly", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1095, "id": 284254, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 84, "len_tokens": 101, "text": "The ice maker in our french door refrigerator doesn't hold much ice.  During the summer we go through a lot of ice drinking cold water.  This ice machine has been a wonderful addition to our kitchen!  Now when our fridge runs out of ice this machine is turned on into action.  It quickly makes ice.  The noise isn't an issue as we don't leave it on all the time.  But it isn't any louder then any other appliance in our home when in work.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1096, "id": 68741, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 121, "len_tokens": 140, "text": "I agree with the reviewer who would give this product 0 stars if possible. I have had this dishwasher for a little more than a year and am planning to get rid of it as soon as I can. It has performed horribly since day one:\n-- does not dry dishes properly\n-- does not always wash dishes properly\n--drawers are too small for large or tall platters or pans\n-- racks are not designed for efficient loading\n-- and, most recently, I discovered black mold all over the top drawer!\nThis is the worst appliance I have ever owned. I bought it because Kitchenaid had a good reputation. I will never buy a Kitchenaid appliance again based on this experience.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1097, "id": 119936, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 124, "len_tokens": 149, "text": "I have bought this product and it works fine for what it is if you remember to change it. I didn't...and my water tasted very ikky and I didn't realise it was the filter not the water...then I came on here to buy a new filter bc I thought mayb e that was it and saw what someone else had posted about a \"bypass filter\". Its permanent, and you don't have to change it. No more bad tasting water because your filter needed changing!!!My fridge water was VERY slow, now its fast, and it was ikky (my kids wouldnt even drink it) and now it is awesome again...I thought it was my water and it was just that it was an old filter!!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1098, "id": 453048, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 93, "len_tokens": 104, "text": "I had to buy a bundled video game to get a good price on this amazing knob from Laurey. Amazon offered to separate my order so I could get speedier shipment but I elected to keep it as is. I quickly tired of the game but I still find this accessory as useful now as the day it arrived. A quick search reveals a number of knobs at Amazon, most of which are too large and obtuse. I found the 20226 to be best suited to my needs and would recommend to anyone.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1099, "id": 242023, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 120, "text": "The unit matched the original almost exactly.  We have had it in use for about three weeks.\nGood points: easy to install, started working right away, ice  pieces are as before;\nUnfortunate points: the \"lip\" down which the ice falls into the bucket below seems extraneous and interferes with reaching into the bucket to get the ice; this unit seems to fill the bucket higher than we expect and we have not seen it actually stop producing ice without our lifting the control arm to stop ice-making manually.\nSummary: basically a good replacement: just be aware of its possible limitations.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1100, "id": 474055, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 96, "len_tokens": 138, "text": "Seems to be a lack of quality control.  Loose part found in unit (delayed\ninstallation).  Mfgr. calls unit a \"built in\", yet the back of the smooth\ntop does not cover the cut edge of granite counter top...bad news.\n\nEverything on unit seems cost effective, not consumer friendly; such as\nloose open element for oven heat with minimual support, tinney drawer below\noven, and single indicater light for \"hot surface\", not specific.\nOven door out of square. Cleaning samples, not included as stated.\nWith a Mfgr. suggested retail of l399.00 seems very lacking.  Enough said.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1101, "id": 291915, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 163, "len_tokens": 199, "text": "I'm liking this hose well enough.  It's softer, more flexible, and bigger in diameter than the cheap little stiff plastic hose that came with my Whirlpool washer.  I was careful to let it straighten itself out in the warm sunlight when I took it out of the package, thanks to those one-star reviewers who said that it split down the middle right out of the package.  I'm guessing they were in cold areas and tried to straighten it a bit too quickly.  It does the job nicely, with no leaks.  I had to cut it down to the one-inch end size, and lost about four inches of length in doing so.  The advertised 8 ft. length apparently includes those parts that many of us have to cut off, because I now have about 7 ft. 8 in. in length, measured from the connection at the washer to the apex of the hook, right where it starts to bend back in the other direction.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1102, "id": 372971, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 99, "len_tokens": 113, "text": "I did some checking on the reviews before I bought this water filter , and  it's seem to be  compatible filter to Samsung but it was not after five months it was leaking and we did not see it  leaking from underneath the front of the refrigerator and it ruined four to five planks of my floor.  I hope by writing this it will save someone from ruining their floors in the future. I do not recommend this product  for a Samsung refrigerator.  We found out from a Samsung rep that you must use a Samsung original  replacement water filter.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1103, "id": 428439, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 106, "len_tokens": 125, "text": "Revising my original review since I just bought the second filter at four months after the first.  The first one I purchased is still going strong!  Will have one on hand when it gives out.  Still Very Happy with this Purchase!\nGiving this five stars for having no trouble installing and that my water has never come out faster.  Also five stars for the cost of this filter versus three times the cost in the big box stores, (which were not even name brand!)\nHoping this lasts the six months that it claims...but even if it only lasts four months, it is worth the price difference.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1104, "id": 390375, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 167, "len_tokens": 190, "text": "We spent a great deal of time researching our replacement range hood and deciding on the XtremeAir. Most weren't nearly powerful enough to keep up with a busy kitchen. This product moves a great deal of air and does it quietly. LED lights were also important. Lack of energy efficient lighting on other hoods indicated the manufacturers failure to keep up with technology. Upon installation we discovered another feature that was not well described, even in the user's manual: it has an automatic setting that will turn the blower on when a lot of smoke is present. We found that it also promptly turns itself on when a burner is lit and heat is sensed, even adjusting the speed automatically. It also turns itself off. When this auto function button is pushed, all other buttons are inactive. It's easy to switch back and forth between manual and auto. Although there is no cooking timer on board, there is a timer function to turn the hood off automatically.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1105, "id": 487581, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 148, "len_tokens": 171, "text": "What can I say, its a stove. Not the best one I've ever owned, but it is functional obviously. The stove is very noisy when preheating the oven. There's been occasions where I have turned the oven off only to turn it right back on, and the temperature is lower than it should have been and it trying to get up to temperature. Comes with a handy temperature probe. Neat shelves in the oven you can remove half of one for a bigger sized pan without having to remove the whole upper shelf is handy. The timer buzzer is extremely loud and annoying. The first time it went off my ferret was walking by and it scared her so bad she dived behind the stove and got stuck between the wall and stove. The black color is hard to keep looking clean and nice. But, hey, it works.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1106, "id": 122183, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 86, "len_tokens": 106, "text": "(Dec. 2013) This part was priced far below what GE wanted so I was hoping for the best, but fearing the worst. I was happily surprised that it fit in perfectly, and the leads were the correct ones. The only difference from the stock element was the rests that hold it off the surface of the oven. There is one less on this replacement, but it didn't affect anything. After install everything works like it should.\n\nUpdate (Sep. 2016) Element is still working with no issues.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1107, "id": 352452, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 95, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "This compact washing machine is exactly what I was looking for. It does a great job of washing a surprisingly large amount of clothing at one time. 10 T-shirts. That the spinner does not handle the same amount of clothing is the only thing that I wish was different. Being a retired single man, this machine easily takes care of my washing needs. The spin dryer does an excellent job of removing the water from the clothes to the extent that I just hang things on hangers and they are dry within a few hours.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1108, "id": 468360, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 145, "len_tokens": 175, "text": "We bought this dryer and it has broken 5 times in the past year (4 in the past three weeks!) Whirlpool will not replace it even though it is under their warranty still. The repairman has fixed the same part every time and Whirlpool customer service says they won't replace it because its not their policy to replace but to fix.  Our repairmen is a good guy and has even called them and consulted Whirlpools technicians and they still cant fix it but refuse to replace it. I am in the military and have a wife and three kids and between deployments to Iraq and Afghanistan hoped for some courtesy from the manufacturer on this. My wife is overloaded enough without the hassle of taking her clothes to the neighbors to dry. ESPECIALLY AFTER THE $ WE PAID FOR THIS THING!!  DO NOT BUY WHIRLPOOL.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1109, "id": 211418, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 119, "text": "love my panda!  I can't figure out how to keep the clothes from hopelessly tangling up (I tried using mesh laundry bags I bought from Amazon but they shredded the first time I used them), but this is not a deal breaker for me.  The spin compartment is surprisingly efficient.  I live in an apartment building with commercial washers so it is great to be able to sort and wash the laundry the way I want without having to pay for a full load and waste soap to wash, for example, a few items of whites.  I can also pre-soak.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1110, "id": 10849, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 126, "text": "I was cautiously optimistic in ordering this product. We're updating the kitchen in our townhouse and are making the switch to stainless steel appliances. I didn't want to pay an arm and a leg for something that was going to stay in the townhouse rather than come with us when we moved, and this vent fits the bill. It's sturdy, fits the space we had for it, and the clean lines looks great. You might have to do some finagling with the screw holes, but we suspect it's because the previous vent was installed poorly rather than this product being designed improperly. This is definitely worth the price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1111, "id": 503567, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 127, "text": "I've bought this same 3-filter set at least twice before with good outcomes. However, this last batch isn't working for me, as the others did. The filter barely makes it a month and a half. Performing, new-out-of-the-box, as if it were at about 2 months old. The stream used to be firm and flowed great. The new one is slow upon first use.\n\nI saw a similar review prior to purchasing it. I still bought it thinking they had a bad batch. But, I'm on filter 2 of 3 of this last purchase, and I still got the same result.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1112, "id": 148062, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 112, "text": "I bought this for a Kenmore dishwasher since it is the same part number. The back of the dispenser is clear plastic, and it had a couple of small cracks in the back. At first I was going to return the item. Then upon closer examination, I figured the cracks were in places that the rinse aid was not going to flow into, so I decided to keep it and install it. The installation was very simple, and I think it sealed up fine to the dishwasher door. Have been using it for a week now, and all is good.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1113, "id": 270514, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 118, "len_tokens": 134, "text": "NOT AN EXACT REPLACEMENT!\nDoes not fit.  It is very close but doesnt clip into the door like the original.  It will Work for light items and is better than missing a shelf but is slightly smaller than it should be.  The big clip goes in the door but the piece that is supposed to hold it tightly don't fit. Thus it falls forward and off the door with a slight load.  I think I can bend it and force it to fit but if you bend plastic it cracks in half so if you force it and it works it will probably break a short time later.  Wish the exact Replacement Parts were the actual replacement parts.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1114, "id": 503703, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 85, "len_tokens": 104, "text": "We this unit from Sears and have had nothing but problems with it since the day we bought it.  Thankfully we also purchased an extended warranty.  We have had to invoke the extended warranty 4 times in two years for the same problem that keeps recurring.  One or both ovens gets stuck in \"preheat mode\" when we bake.  It has been a $500 repair each time, fully covered by the extended warranty.  Despite this fact, we remain unhappy wiith this range and with the situation", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1115, "id": 451812, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 130, "len_tokens": 157, "text": "I ordered these covers and they arrived so fast and I was tickled pink with them.  I had my other covers for many a long year and my husband and son had hunted high and low for some new ones for me and couldn't locate any of the rectangular ones anywhere, so I was so thrilled when I saw these on your site.  The quality is marvellous and they have a relatively high profile which is great because of the higher hotplates I have on my stove top.  They seem to have a far sturdier feel to them and don't feel tinny and what's more, they sure do look cute.  I have always had a real soft spot for the Pillsbury Boy.  And the best part was the price...extremely reasonable!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1116, "id": 211861, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 89, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "Beware, the item pictured is NOT the item you will receive. As other users have already stated, the spring in the photo is clearly wound clockwise. The spring you will receive is wound counter-clockwise and will NOT work with an LG french door refrigerator. I have included a photo of the actual spring I received, so you can compare for yourself. I find it very disheartening, based on previous reviews, the seller has been made aware that this listing is incorrect, and has chosen to not take corrective action.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1117, "id": 345233, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 124, "len_tokens": 148, "text": "There are a lot of bad reviews when they switched from PUR to this EveryDrop brand.  Lot of people said water tastes really bad like soap.  So I was very skeptical about using this new EveryDrop brand.  But my old PUR filter was getting old and finally decided it was time and to at least give them a try.  Surprisingly, I felt there was nothing wrong with it.  Water taste just fine.  Clean and clear just like the old PUR filters.  Not sure where everyone was getting that it taste like soap.  Now I do live in Hawaii so the water here is very clean even without a filter.  Only thing is that it is on the pricey side... but I would order again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1118, "id": 188857, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 105, "len_tokens": 124, "text": "If you are looking for a dishwasher that actually cleans, this is not the one you want. The water did not get hot, dishes came out dirty, did not dry dishes, cycle was al least an hr long, dishes must be prewashed prior to washing in this dish washer(defeats the purposs of a dishwasher), all in all, the best place to put this is in the trash. I had a hard time giving it away, once I did, it was then passed to at least 3 other people who really could only get a good laugh out of it. A ridiculous piece of equipment.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1119, "id": 171938, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "I had the uL problem with my washer.  It would make a horrible noise and rock the house.  Would take a couple hours to do one load of laundry.  Ordered this product on a Friday it arrived on a Monday.  We watched a video and installed it in a matter of 20 minutes or less.  One of the rods in my washer was bent.  We replaced all four and my washer is working just like it should.  Worth the money and I'm telling you easy to install.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1120, "id": 465390, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 97, "len_tokens": 121, "text": "Bought in May 2011. From the very first time we used the oven - the top where the burners are gets exceedingly hot and has caused burns on more than one occasion. It has now effected the control panel where the plastic is misshapen and now the Cancel button does not work. Repairman coming today. I never ever had an an oven where I am baking or  broiling where I am concerned about getting burned. Previous review shared that Frigidaire was not helpful. Hopeful my extended warantee from store I bought it from will fix the problemSSSS.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1121, "id": 18178, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 112, "len_tokens": 140, "text": "Do not buy this Filter.\nHoneywell decided to take a fantastic filter for the Honeywell HCM-6009 Cool Moisture Console Humidifier and turn it into an inferior product. I KNOW I'm not the only person that has a problem with the redesign. Bring back the Blue Shell Filters. You've removed layers of this filter in order to fit into other devices ; turning this filter into flimsy junk.\n\nI keep up with maintenance. I clean everything. Please stop telling me to do this and that's the cause of the filter turning bad. It's not. You are the cause and I recommend to anyone they look elsewhere for a humidifier not made by Honeywell.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1122, "id": 74902, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 115, "len_tokens": 145, "text": "I bought 2 of these and an AcuRite 02081M Weather Station.\nAmazingly, the wireless sensor on all three were able to figure out which base unit they were paired to when I first plugged in the batteries. I was worried about this. But, it was \"magic\" and it \"just worked\".\nThey have been working great from that point on.\nThe display is clear & sharp and easy to read in normal room-lighting. It is a little harder to read in lower light (the base units are in the garage) because there is no back-light on the base units.\nFor the price, they are great.\nThe remote sensor works well out to 100' (\"real life\").", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1123, "id": 195737, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 123, "len_tokens": 127, "text": "Too small and difficult to use as it has a gravity drain  which was impossible for me to set up so I had to send it back if you think it is going to be too small do not take it out of the box it comes in as UPS will not take it back in bubble wrap you have to have a box score and since it is a odd size I had a very difficult time finding a box to fit it but I finally did but since it is so heavy 80 Pounds it is a two pet son lift. I would watch all the videos on this machine before I bought it I did not and I regret it", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1124, "id": 502052, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 135, "text": "Probably the most common use for this is to repair the wire going to the heating element of your dryer because the wire melted do to a loose connector to the heating element.\n\nSeems to about an 8 gauge wire.  The female disconnect is a larger size than what's easily available (again, looks to be about an 8 gauge).\n\nFit perfectly on my Samsung front loading dryer.\n\nMinus one star for the price.  Absurd to charge 6 or 7 bucks for 6 inches of wire with a crimped connector on it.  That said, it's hard to find in non specialty shops, so I guess  it is what it is.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1125, "id": 85126, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 91, "len_tokens": 114, "text": "I was surprised at how well made these hoses are.  The ends are thick and feel well crafted (clean edges, no burrs, joints are solid).  The rubber washers are soft and flexible (not old and not cheap).  The extra few feet will come in handy with the stacked washer/dryer that I've got in a dedicated closet.  I've got to make the connection, slip out the side and then move the unit into the closet... with my waist line, I need all the extra room they can give me!  :D", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1126, "id": 257078, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 105, "len_tokens": 130, "text": "I spilt a small amount of water removing the old GE MWF filter but didn't spill any installing this Supco WF287; clean-up took one paper towel. I had previously filled the Supco with water to minimize \"sputter\" from air in the lines and it worked -- it doesn't fill all at once immediately; I turned the tap on perhaps a dozen times to run a small amount of water, allow the bubbles to work out, and run another small amount. As a result I didn't experience any sputter, either. Taste initially is not significantly different from the GE (and is better than tap). Recommended.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1127, "id": 451937, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 141, "len_tokens": 172, "text": "I can't tell you if this machine can wash dishes or not.\nI ordered it from Walmart; it's shipped direct.\nThe first unit I got was full of splattered grease or oil inside and the door was dented in.\n\nWalmart was very good in having it picked up and replaced ASAP.\nAt first inspection, unit 2 looked good. But as I was ready to wheel it into the kitchen, I noticed that a rubber hose and some other mechanism was hanging out from the bottom, scrapping the floor.(no, this was not the hose that goes to the sink.\n\nThis is a royal pain in the butt because it's a big appliance and hard to pack and unpack.  There is simply no excuse for this shoddy merchandise.\n\nWalmart said they'd investigate w/the vendor.  They themselves were fine in expediting my return", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1128, "id": 121171, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 123, "len_tokens": 197, "text": "I bought an icemaker for my fridge only to find out through much research (that took forever) that my fridge didn't even have a water inlet valve. I found out I needed one that looked like this since I didn't have an old one in the fridge to compare it to:&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/B004XLEEKO/dp/B004XLEEKO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">B004XLEEKO</a>&nbsp;I saw a review on this same product from another seller and they said that they required the same part but this one worked for them. It worked for me too! This one has just 1 \"plug\" for fridges that don't have the water/icemakers in the door (that kind requires the 2 \"plugs'). This one works for just an ice maker that you plug into your top freezer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1129, "id": 142552, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 107, "len_tokens": 132, "text": "These parts are NOT original parts as advertised. The shipping was slow from this vendor--came in 5 days later than parts that I ordered at the same time from another vendor. The high temp thermostat is not constructed the same as the original parts and would not mount properly in my Whirlpool dryer. I was able to use the cycling thermostat and it lasted about 6 loads before it proved defective. All-in-all a waste of time and money.\n\nThese parts are NOT original parts. Buy parts that are labeled \"FSP\" to be sure you are getting the original parts for your Whirlpool, Roper, Kenmore, or Estate dryer.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1130, "id": 57435, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 157, "len_tokens": 176, "text": "Used it to clean an 11 foot horizontal run plastic pipe from the dryer to outside. Ran dryer on air-dry setting and the lint just came flying out, enough to fill a two gallon wash bucket (after I cleaned it up). They have a bag you can buy to put over the end of the pipe to catch the lint and I would recommend it to eliminate the cleanup requirement. Also, wear a dust mask because using this method of cleanup versus the vacuum cleaner method creates a lot of dust at the exit point. Follow the assembly directions for the extension pieces and use electrical tape to prevent them from unscrewing if you inadvertently reverse the drill. (It was very hard for me to control my natural reflex to reverse the drill when pulling the tool out.) Recommend this tool to anyone who has to clean an  inaccessible pipe run of more than 2-3 feet.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1131, "id": 458363, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 122, "len_tokens": 145, "text": "I did a lot of research before I bought this range, and I kept coming back to this one.  It was recommended by Consumer Reports, but I still did some research .  It looks great and works great.  I had a problem with the first one that was delivered bc it was damaged so we did not accept it. We bought it from Lincoln Direct and they made it right.  It was a great price and a great product.  I have not used the convection yet, but come the holidays I will.  we were a bit disappointed bc we thought it was a 5 burner, when it is only a 4 burner, but it is fine.  All in all a great range!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1132, "id": 559943, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 85, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "Great set up. DW wanted a gas cooktop and an electric double oven. This one has it all. It comes with a lot of extras (griddle/grill, wok base, temp probe, etc). The bottom drawer is a warming drawer - but we store baking items in ours. We cooked (err- she cooked) our thanksgiving turkey and it came out great.\n\nNote: it does not have backlight knobs (thought it would). Apparently the model that does is the all gas version that looks almost identical", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1133, "id": 406081, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 96, "len_tokens": 116, "text": "If you own an LG range, you've found the downside of their poorly made knobs. Even worse is the standard $85 per knob price tag usually found on these knobs. These are very nice replacements, at a much more reasonable price! Unlike the originals, these have a metal insert that provides a nice snug fit on the gas valve stem.  I would recommend these to anyone who has suffered the \"melted knob\" syndrome so common on these ranges.\n\nEDIT: Every one of the knobs broke within two months. Cheap plastic shafts. I'd look for better replacements", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1134, "id": 280683, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 108, "text": "item work very well. Cleaned lint built up for over 20 years. used a good shop vacuum and the job is very easy. went from both directions using a drill and by manual way of just going back and forth with brush. The manual way worked fine cleaning out lots of lint but when going back over using drill on high speed there was a whole new bunch of lint blowing out was like starting out all over again. Well worth it cost with the piece of mind it provided knowing the vent is clear and should not catch fire.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1135, "id": 101984, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 117, "len_tokens": 133, "text": "I bought the spin dryer to use in conjunction with the wonder wash.  It is as described - a spin dryer.  No heat, just a high speed spin cycle that does very well at getting a lot of the water out of the clothes.  It has worked very well for me and if you are getting (or have) the wonder wash I would highly recommend this product be used in conjunction with that one.  The clothes coming out of the wonder wash are soaking wet and I just put them into this dryer, let it run for 2 minutes or so and they are barely damp when it is done.  They air dry in a few hours.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1136, "id": 240668, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 109, "len_tokens": 129, "text": "My dispenser cap fell out during a cycle and melted, so the rinse agent kept draining after one load. I went to sears.com to look for a cap and they were like $25.00! The price was outrageous for such a small piece of plastic! I was very nervous about if this would fit my dishwasher since it is a Kenmore, but it turns out that whirlpool makes kenmores. I  bought this one based off of looks, and it fits and functions completely perfectly! So if your not sure if it will fit or not, my advice is if it looks like your current cap it most likely will fit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1137, "id": 335162, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 93, "len_tokens": 120, "text": "**UPDATE** The vendor contacted me!  They were extremely responsive and sympathetic - they immediately sent out a new unit which works perfectly.  Must just now wait to see if the new unit outlasts the old one.  Three extra stars for *outstanding* support service!!\n\n---- original review follows ----\n\nI bought this product at the end of June 2017 and by November 2017 the clock display had begun to fail.  The attached photo indicates how the multi-segment display has started failing.\n\nIn other respects, this device seemed to work well, including the outdoor sensor.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1138, "id": 329890, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 139, "len_tokens": 162, "text": "Don't buy this unit. It worked great at first and I loved it BUT - it failed after 6 months of use. The water pump that pumps the water up into the freezing compartment is making a very loud noise and it now takes 3 times as long to fill. It is only a matter of time before it is 100% inoperable.\nThere is a reason why there is no \"Warranty\" information listed on the Amazon listing. Its because there isn't a warranty. Save your money and aggravation and buy something else. Click on the one star reviews and read them. This is a problem with quite a few of these. Amazon should not allow these to be sold. Amazon will get a reputation like e bay if they continue to allow low quality products to be sold here.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1139, "id": 261638, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 111, "len_tokens": 132, "text": "Update, not happy with how the company has treated me. I filed a claim to prove their products integrity is subpar. The welds on the sides of the hood are breaking apart (tearing - see photos). This truly is poor craftsmanship. Customer service, well even worse. Not willing to negotiate because I was a couple of months past my 1 year warranty. SO...if you want a product from this company, don't expect them to help if you're past the warranty period, no exceptions. I do not recommend this product to anyone (even if my product was a one time issue, but because of the poor customer relations they provide).", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1140, "id": 135849, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 91, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "I have a GE electric stove - don't know the model - but the old recepticals looked like the picture shown here on Amazon, so gave it at try. These fit perfectly and the wires are much longer than needed, which is better than being too short. I was able to tuck the extra wire in the back part above the stove where they connect. As long as your old wires are still connected, there's no need for a wiring diagram, just replace as you remove the old ones. It's easy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1141, "id": 517117, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 134, "len_tokens": 172, "text": "All open-coil electric ranges should come with burners like this as standard fitment. The extra elevation is nice for less heat damage to stove parts and drip bowls, but more than that, this burner's frame gives MUCH sturdier support, so the burner (and therefore whatever pot or pan is on it) doesn't rattle around or want to tip over. I suspect this also will greatly lessen the tendency of the burner socket to gradually cook to death, because the socket is now more separated from the hot burner, but that'll take some years to see. It's claimed this burner does not fit GE stoves, but it fit both my GE (from 2009) and my Frigidaire (from 2000) just fine. I do wish they were also available in the small size, but that's less crucial.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1142, "id": 393071, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 169, "len_tokens": 194, "text": "I was having issues with my ice maker.  They started after I installed my most recent set of water filters.  The water was going in fine, but the ice maker would not eject the ice without me taking out the ice container and pushing the button to make the ice eject.  This went on until after I used both of the filters that I had previously purchased.  I had no reason to think the filter had anything to do with it because water going going into the ice trays just fine.  When I installed the first of these three new filters I received (the filters I am reviewing), the ice maker resumed automatically ejecting the ice.  Even though I don't know what it could have to do with the water filter, it now works when it wasn't working before.  I used to have to remember to eject the ice about every three hours so I could have ice when I needed it.  Now I don't have to remember anymore.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1143, "id": 127047, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 138, "len_tokens": 148, "text": "This fixed my fridge perfectly but for whatever reason I could not get the new outer plastic assembly that surrounds the fan to not vibrate against the fridge. It may have been caused by the assembly being so new that it was sliding in its locked position as the fan rotated i.e. there was no dirt to help hold it where it needed to be. The fan in my fridge is not balanced so there is some vibration as the fan goes around. I ended up removing the motor unit from the large outer assembly and putting it in the old one I had removed. It now works without any rattle. I was glad I had read the advice of another reviewer who had said that that the assembly was too big and they had done the same.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1144, "id": 24787, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 101, "len_tokens": 115, "text": "I read the reviews and tried to convince myself to buy one of the cheaper alternatives, but I couldnt. As you read the reviews you will find one common thread..... from time to time, the non-GE brands will leak or have other problems. The GE brand never does. You could buy the other brands and save a few bucks, but if it gives you trouble, you have to send it back and it will end up costing you the same or more $$. I decided that for me, paying a little more for the one that always worked was worth it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1145, "id": 302461, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 92, "len_tokens": 126, "text": "This is NOT a direct replacement for the genuine Samsung Aqua-Pure DA29-00003G water filter! It doesn't meet any of the stated NSF ratings  that are on the genuine filter. You may as well not have a water filter installed using this, or any non-genuine filter. Do yourself a favor,  don't waste your time,  effort,  or money, or even risk your good health on these cheap knock-off filters, and spend the extra on a genuine Samsung Aqua-Pure filter. If you don't believe me,  read the NSF standards on the genuine Samsung Aqua-Pure filter.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1146, "id": 100637, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 122, "len_tokens": 141, "text": "I bought the Wonder Wash shortly after having a baby because I live in an apartment without laundry facilities. Rather than making constant trips to the laundromat with small loads of soiled baby clothes, I wash them in the Wonder Wash. I use it on my kitchen counter right next to the sink. You only need a tiny bit of detergent and hot water from the tap. I also do a rinse afterwards with cold water and just a few cranks. I wring the clothes out quickly by hand and put them on a drying rack. It cleans clothes quickly and efficiently. It's great for small loads and also is good for delicate items. For me, it's been a real time saver.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1147, "id": 221014, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 92, "len_tokens": 117, "text": "I broke this item last fall.  Hubby rigged it so I could open door.  after a while I had trouble getting washer to work.  kept getting LO error code.  I searched for part and found it here .. ordered it and it arrived with a few days...very quick.  Went to youtube to watch video on replacing part.  It was a 2:33 min video and we had new part installed and washer working perfect in less than 10 minutes.  It would have cost over $200.00 to have repair person do what we did.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1148, "id": 243878, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 107, "len_tokens": 117, "text": "Fits daughters leap pad perfecting and her games and some random toys, she even wears her backpack around the house! She brings her leap pad to Grandma's and likes to bring toys back and forth in it as well as her leap pad. I would have liked the mesh inserts that hold the leap pad and games, the one that holds the leap pad to be a little higher so the leap pad is not falling out of the mesh holder, if that makes sense?.. Other than that i would recommend this to anyone with a child with a leap pad or even the mini iPad.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1149, "id": 407609, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 103, "len_tokens": 118, "text": "This is a lovely looking filter which does the job as quickly as it advertises. Firstly it's quite pleasing to look at and secondly it filters as quickly as you can fill it up. Unlike Brita filters wherein you have to wait until the water starts filling in. There's no lag time here. The filter though is removable and can be used in other pitchers and is portable as well.\n\n It does say to let it soak in water for the first time before using it at all and after that it's clear, tasty water all the way. Can't go wrong with it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1150, "id": 64079, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 114, "len_tokens": 132, "text": "Nice looking. Broan seems to own this segment so it can be hard to distinguish between loud, quiet, good buttons, and bad models. This model moves air well at a not very loud sound level. I had removed another Broan hood from the kitchen because of it was so loud and barely moved any air (yes I confirmed assembly and proper air flow direction). This one is worth the price and satisfies someone who likes to be able to *talk* to people in the kitchen while it is running on high speed. Arrived with a small crease on front, but box showed no damage. Didn't return because the project needed to be done.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1151, "id": 325840, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 113, "len_tokens": 128, "text": "I love this range hood. I had a microwave hood over my stove. It hardly got the cooking odors out of my kitchen. I did not like lifting up food to it or taking hot food out of it, so I got rid of it. We got this because it had a 760 cubic feet per minute fans. None of the fans at Home Depot does that. They all range in the 200 cubic feet range. It is shiny and the lights are very bright for cooking. The fan is 3 speeds. The high is strong and will take out odor fast but I just keep it on low while I am cooking.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1152, "id": 327505, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 139, "text": "I did get this to work, however, it was not a drop in replacement. I had to take the bracket for the solenoids off and flip the terminals 180 degrees so that the wire harness could connect.  Also, the tubing on the Whirlpool Model GS6SHAXLL03 fridge was twist on and the SUPCO was push on.  So I had to cut the tubing flanges off in order to install.  Since I am handy I was able to make this work, but for the average homeowner I don't think they would figure it out.  So look at the picture and notice the direction of water connections and Solenoid connectors before you buy!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1153, "id": 536443, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 112, "len_tokens": 141, "text": "The interior of this fridge is SMALL because of all the misdesigned shelves .. try fitting condiments into the door!!  Good LUCK! They are either crammed in a single open area or the small bottles fit under the butter dish and other obstructions.\n\nThe glass shelves are so poorly designed that you will swear constatly that you have no place to put a thing.\n\nWorse design I have ever had.\n\nThese are in apartments...by the way.  That is why I have no choice.  They look great, but are horrible in function.  BE SURE not to get one with an ice maker...it takes up 20 percent of the freezer which is already small.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1154, "id": 138000, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 126, "len_tokens": 151, "text": "Needed to install washer further away from slop sink and input water.  Purchased 10 feet hoses at same time and you can look up my review if you have same need.\n\nThis drain hose was a bit odd in appearance as I expected something that would install on washer.  Instead, this slips over the existing drain hose.  I bought two stainless steel hose clamps (the type with screw to tighten clamp-I don't think I would trust the other kind that uses just spring tension)as I was bit concerned about leaking.  It does not feel like a really tight fit when slipping the drain hose over the existing washer hose.  But, two clamps seem to hold things.\n\nAnother solution to problem found picking through Amazon's offerings.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1155, "id": 102356, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 110, "len_tokens": 130, "text": "Got it on time, works perfectly. Holds alot. The lock should be on the top but it's not terrible it still does it's job. I went ahead and turned the screw before I even plugged it in just because of how many reviews said it wasn't cold enough intially. I did three twists and my beverages are not freezing but perfectly chilled to how I like. I don't have a thermometer but if I went any colder they would be freezing. Waiting to buy another one once they become in stock again. Came with no dents no scrapes absolutely perfect condition. (Maybe I was lucky- but I'm happy about it)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1156, "id": 378886, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 90, "len_tokens": 112, "text": "Confirmed to work on JGBP30BEW1WH but needs splicing for broiler.  I ordered this re replace the ignition on the broiler.  This was much easier to do than the oven/bottom one. You will need to splice the wire because the existing connector does NOT work with the one that came with this. The ceramic wire nut is small and does come off easily. It does seem that it's not really the correct size for the wire gauge.  I had to use heat resistant tape to make sure it stayed in place.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1157, "id": 69088, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 144, "len_tokens": 168, "text": "I am so glad I bought this. After years of cramming frozen stuff into my freezer and passing good sales due to lack of room, I am now content. This is a perfect size for a small family (there are just two of us). It uses little energy and freezes extremely well, keeps to temperature and absolutely maintains <32 degrees. the footprint is about the same as a washer or dryer, so it fits in a small space easily. Ours is in the basement. It arrived quickly in perfect condition. Have had it several months and no issues, no problems. I will say I noticed yesterday that frost is building up slightly on one wall, but I suspect that's normal. I strongly recommend this, especially at the price. It might qualify for your electric company's energy rebate, but I have't checked that out.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1158, "id": 76801, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 105, "len_tokens": 131, "text": "When the plastic disposer flange that came with the setup in my place broke, I was shocked to see the prices of them. I was very happy to find this solid piece of plumbing at such a reasonable price. It installed easily and I'm good to go. Does not come with the rubber insert that covers the drain/disposer innards and the one in the previous flange is too small, so there's another purchase.\nUpdate: Changed to 2 stars. 11/13/2014 This thing has scratched up to look a mess. You get what you pay for I suppose. I never found a protective insert that fit either.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1159, "id": 52548, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 116, "len_tokens": 135, "text": "Worked somewhat for about 10 months then I got the error and found out there is a catch that needs to be cleaned out. After cleaning out, it worked about three more times then stopped working, rocker arm had broken. The dry lasted around 2 years then stopped heating. We did but another of the same washer because we wanted a matching set. Same thing, it lasted approx 10 months. it is crazy loud during the spin cycle, mildew on gasket even though I air it after each use. Because of the spin power it constantly moves even when its been leveled. I thought this would be a good investment but its not, save your money.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1160, "id": 231305, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 120, "len_tokens": 163, "text": "When installing this replacement icemaker be sure to use a small level.  If the icemaker is not level the water will overflow and make a mess.  Yes I made the mistake so you wont!!  The on/off arm is smaller and shaped differently than shown in the picture so I used the old on/off arm. The kit came with several different wire harnesses(4)and two tubes.  I didn't need to replace the water tube.  All in all this was easy to install and the best price that I found. The manufacture name on the box is Supco (Sealed Unit Parts Co. Inc.).  Part name on box is RIM500 Modular icemaker service kit. Replaces: Whirpool 4317943, 978556, Maytag and subzero.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1161, "id": 513364, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 162, "len_tokens": 198, "text": "I found this motor after much searching.  The original motor that died was a 5KSM51AG 5333 for my 16 year old Kenmore fridge.  The few sites that listed that exact motor wanted nearly $200 for it.\n\nI can say that even though the RPM is not an exact match and you have to cut off the plug (fridge side) and use wire nuts, the physical size and mounting is an exact match to my original motor.  I figure the few extra RPM (old one was only 950 RPM) is not a bad thing.\n\nThe only negative was the delay in shipping.  It could have been USPS tracking but USPS claimed they did not receive the item from the seller for 6 days after the tracking number was generated.  It missed the estimated shipping window so my fridge sat with a box fan blowing behind it (cover removed) for a few extra days.  Does not reflect on the product so still 5 stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1162, "id": 101901, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 139, "len_tokens": 157, "text": "I purchased the Mini Countertop Spin Dryer along with the Wonder Wash unit. It seems that there was an error in listing them together so I contacted the folks at the seller, The Laundry Alternative. They were most helpful and made things right in a hurry.\n\nThe units both work as advertised. The Wonder Wash is easy to operate and gets clothes clean and fresh smelling with the correct amount of detergent. The Spin Dryer does a good job and after spinning for a few minutes my shirts and other items dry easily by hanging them overnight with no other assistance. Socks and heavier items, of course, take a bit longer to dry. But overall I am very satisfied with both machines.\n\nThanks to the folks at The Laundry Alternative for their excellent customer service and handy, useful products.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1163, "id": 179246, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 94, "len_tokens": 111, "text": "This OEM ice maker is a direct replacement for many brands including my 16 year old Amana bottom freezer \"Sub-Zero\" look alike.  After a close look at how the old one was installed, I decided it would be easy to install a new one.  Total elapsed time was 20 minutes.  The only surprise was that the wiring harness was secured to the harness socket in the back wall of the freezer with a zip tie which must be removed before you can disconnect the harness.  Once again I have a steady supply of ice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1164, "id": 193307, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 143, "len_tokens": 160, "text": "I bought this thinking it would be great for when we are running  errands in case we had an I need a potty moment while driving. I realized 9 times out of ten we went before we left the house or before the store and were never in the car long enough to need it. It would be great for long car rides but it is absolutely amazingly big for the boat! It never crossed my mind but we just spent the day on the boat and I never would have brought the kids if I hadn't had this. It worked great especially with the baggies for inside. My little one was super pumped to hear we had a boat potty. We had a great day. I would absolutely recommend especially for other boaters. It would work for parents in a pinch too.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1165, "id": 229900, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 86, "len_tokens": 102, "text": "This unit turned out to be a direct replacement for my broken ice maker.  It took me an hour to change out the units but that isn't bad considering I never worked on any appliance before - ever!.  The video proved the most helpful.  Saved about $160.00 doing this myself.  Didn't need the spare parts but that's OK as they could come in handy in the future.  Would recommend trying this to anyone who can read and follow directions and has a little common sense.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1166, "id": 84020, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 83, "len_tokens": 110, "text": "This thermistor was exactly what I needed for my Samsung DV330 drier.  My problem started when the drier would shut down after about 5 minutes and give a \"tO\" (thermistor open) error on the display.  I followed an online service manual to locate this part number, and it was an easy repair.  I was able to remove the rear access panel surrounding the vent line and replace the thermistor in about 10 minutes.  Fixed the problem!  Now I'm ordering a spare. . .", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1167, "id": 388036, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 91, "len_tokens": 107, "text": "After much research, I selected this exhaust hood because of it's clean stainless steel design and provides up to 600 cfm of exhaust. That's a lot more power than the standard kitchen hoods which are around 200 cfm. Also the sound level is rated very quiet for this size capacity fan. The filter elements are dishwasher safer. My only concern is whether the two lamps under the hood will be bright enough.\nI haven't installed as yet because my kitchen is presently under demolition. Will report back after installation is completed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1168, "id": 521335, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 109, "len_tokens": 121, "text": "Bought this hood for a kitchen remodel my husband was completing and couldn't be happier with the appearance and function so far! After pricing hoods at local big box home improvement stores I took a leap of faith and bought this due to the positive reviews and the fact that it was able to be installed without venting it to the outside (comes with charcoal filters). Unfortunately this house was placed for sale after remodel and sold in under a week (new owners loved the hood) so I am unable to comment on the long term function of the product, but from our experience we woukd buy again!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1169, "id": 345639, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 105, "len_tokens": 123, "text": "I paid premium for this item thinking that it is a genuine article and my peace of mind is worth the extra bucks. For whatever reason, water tastes horrible. I thought it would go away after a while, but well, a month later it still doesn't. I regret buying this item.\n\nUpdate Nov 2016: even the best of us make mistakes. I had not installed the filter properly. I pushed it in and voil, it started to actually filter water. Water came out a bit dark and somewhat oily at first, but after a couple gallons or so it cleared and the taste is great.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1170, "id": 84126, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 111, "len_tokens": 133, "text": "We bought a Thermador in 2000.\nIt's not terrible to cook with but the accumulated repair costs have been staggering.\nOne button goes out at least annually for a repair cost of $150.\nThe glass blew out. Overall the repair costs are at or approaching the cost of the range\nin the first place.\n\nIt's not a lemon either. That's the really sad part.\nIt just has some really poorly designed parts.\n\nI will never buy any Thermador product again.\nI only write this to help other avoid making the same expensive mistake we did.\n\nPS. I do not work for any kitchen appliance company, nor have I in the past.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1171, "id": 284562, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 160, "len_tokens": 193, "text": "I have been on the phone a total of 2 hrs 2 calls.  I have to pay the postage to send this back as I made 3 batches of ice and the pump went out.  I called the warranty and after speaking to someone who obviously cannot understand English, they tell me that once I send this back to be fixed it will take 6-8 weeks for them to either fix or replce.  At that point summer will be over, so why do I need it.  Very very upset, and I want to let you lnow that I can buy the same thing at Home Depot for $98.  My sister just bought one there and she does not have to go through all this hassle. Same machine, same buttons, same size ice, same everything but the name.  I paid $152 + tax and shipping, as well as this great good for nothing warranty.  Will never buy anything like this again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1172, "id": 82770, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 123, "text": "The blade had a \"Y\" shaped crack radiating from its center and it hit the mounting bracket because it was crooked on the shaft. I squeezed the cracks together and aligned the blade. I installed it, turned it on and went outside to check the vent. It only opened halfway on high. I installed the filter. I turned the fan on and the fan blade hit the filter because the blade was mounted too high on the shaft. I had to use a hammer and a large socket to pound the blade down onto the splined shaft. It works. Other than that it is quieter than the original.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1173, "id": 140464, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 95, "len_tokens": 127, "text": "Fast delivery.  Quality product.  Ice maker was getting cold but no water was pumping up and flowing over the ice shelf.  Disassembled and replaced this pump that sits in the water pan.  Unit hard snaps into the plastic shelf.  Force the old one out and snap the new one in.  The pump is 12V 1000mA 60Hz.  Do not test on a 12V car battery as others have mentioned.  After plugging the ice maker in it should fill the water tray and then pump water over the shelf, even with a warm box.  Hope this helps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1174, "id": 121626, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 137, "len_tokens": 165, "text": "When I was looking to replace my drip pans, I first bought a set of black porcelain replacements from the grocery store.  They looked nice, but they were just slightly too small in diameter to have a perfect fit, so they weren't perfectly centered around the burner.  They also had additional notches for the burner to sit in, so the white of the stove top showed through.  I wasn't happy with that, so I returned them and did some shopping here on Amazon.  I am really glad I found these!  They fit perfectly, being the correct diameter so they are perfectly centered, and having no extra notches for the burner.  The black porcelain finish is flawless and glossy.  My stove looks new again!  Such a seemingly small detail has had a fantastic impact on my entire kitchen.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1175, "id": 381544, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 117, "len_tokens": 147, "text": "After reading some of the reviews about damages and items not working and such, I was kinda terrified to order this item.  HOWEVER,  I read enough reviews to know that if it arrived undamaged, it would be a good buy.  Well, it arrived well-packaged and undamaged.  Took me a couple of days to get the temperature adjusted to where I wanted it, but ended up using the \"3\" setting to get below zero.  It's extremely quiet and I love it.  Someone mentioned that the yellow tag was hard to remove.  Maybe they had a different vendor or something, because mine came off fine.  i would highly recommend this item, even if it had NOT been on sale.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1176, "id": 314160, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 102, "len_tokens": 148, "text": "With the instructions from a youtube video, straight forward fix for a top load washer that wouldn't spin or agitate.  Ordered a couple just to have an extra on-hand.  Hardest part was repositioning the washer's case back on the frame, aligning all the tabs.\n\nIf your washer will fill and drain, but won't spin or agitate, google for \"washer won't spin or agitate\" for how-to-do youtube video's, order this part, and do it yourself; you wallet will be grateful.\n\nDownside:  before, washer would produce a LOUD \"clunk\" as it switched cycles, allowing me to track its progress.  Now, no \"clunk\"; runs quiet.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1177, "id": 471099, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 147, "len_tokens": 181, "text": "I purchased my second Marvel ice machine last October after my first one died.  The repair man said, \"Don't get another Marvel as you will have problems.  We have seen it in the field.\"  I didn't listen to him and bought another.  After 4 months my new ice machine stopped working.  They couldn't fix it and had to bring it to the shop.  The drain pump stopped working and the sprayer needed adjustment as I was getting cloudy and uneven ice.  They adjusted the sprayer and replaced the drain pump and now they are telling me it will be two weeks before they can bring it out to me. So this puts me without an ice machine for over a month and 1/2 on what was basically a brand new machine.  I called customer service and they said there is nothing I can do.  This is UNACCEPTABLE!!!!!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1178, "id": 170718, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 152, "len_tokens": 181, "text": "We were doubtful that this would actually fix the continual balance issue with our Cabrio washer but decided to give it a try as a less expensive option to replacing the whole tub/basket. I have washed over a dozen loads since with no issues - even loads that were obviously unequally distributed at the end of the cycle. When replacing the rods, we discovered that one of the old ones was bent. There is no way to know if that was the cause of the whole problem or a result of some other issue. The You Tube video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9E0bzeMRGlI was very helpful as the instructions that came with the parts were not detailed. The whole repair process took less than half an hour. We have learned to check Amazon's pricing on most anything we buy - this part was almost $30 less here than the least expensive appliance part website.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1179, "id": 12744, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 132, "len_tokens": 155, "text": "These filters restrict air flow in my Kenmore humidifier.\n\nThe result is that the motors have to work harder and they overheat - the odor of melting insulation was my first clue. I also removed the cover and placed my hand on each motor and they were definitely very hot (ruling out that I had one faulty motor).  For a quick fix I 'bowed' one filter in each side, breaking the airflow seal to allow more airflow and reduce stress on the motors.  This helped but, of course, breaking the airflow seal kind of defeats the purpose of drawing air THROUGH wet filters for humidification.  I do like the construction of the product - maybe they work out better in other manufacturers units.  For me it's back to the OEM filters.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1180, "id": 398695, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 164, "len_tokens": 196, "text": "If I wrote a review the week I got this wick, I would have written that it was a fine OEM replacement wick and given it a all the stars that went along with that. But a few months later, this is not the case.\n\nIt turns out that these are low quality humidifier wicks that disintegrated into goo within two months. The whole thing didn't disintegrate, but large patches of it turned to goo -- like dissolved paper or whatever the pad is really made out of. The OEM wick worked for almost two years in the same spot in the same house at the same humidifier settings before mineral buildup diminished the humidifier output.\n\nAdditionally, these wicks did not fit into the lasko humidifier they were sold for. They are about half an inch out of size in each dimension. If you get them wet, they soften up and can be worked into the wick holder, but they still don't fit well.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1181, "id": 394860, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 118, "len_tokens": 137, "text": "I am replacing a two year old Whirlpool Cabrio that had more problems than were worth fixing. I felt it was time to go back to an old style machine with mechanical timers. There is no better unit then the Speed Queen line. It is installed and works great. My neighbors are wondering why there's a brand new looking Whirlpool on my lawn and I'll be glad to tell them what a piece of junk it was. The people at hCcost that provided the unit were great in making sure that we got the order when it was promised. No more trips to the laundry mat for my wife. She loves here \"new old style machine\". Thanks Amazon...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1182, "id": 387864, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 76, "len_tokens": 101, "text": "This product is not the right size for an Emerson HDC-12.  The filters are 1/2 the thickness of previous filters I've used with my Essick Moist Air humidifier and the length is 1 inch shorter.  These filters are too small and flimsy to fit securely in their holders.  It's been unusually warm here this fall, so I'm just getting around to trying them.  It's just past the return date so I'm now stuck with this junk.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1183, "id": 513563, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 115, "len_tokens": 154, "text": "DO NOT BUY. This is a late review. Bought one for my PSS27NGPA in 11-2014. After install, my Expressthaw never worked again. The following year, my ice dispenser started working intermittently, followed by the water. I've been buying bottled water for 3mo now. Finally, both the fridge and freezer stopped cooling Friday, and I had to throw out $200 in organic meats because the temp hit 62 by Monday. I just bought a replacement board from GE yesterday, explained my situation, and they discounted their board to $50 + overnight shipping. After installing today, everything works again. You can see the burnt capacitors in the attached pic. Do not buy, stick to a GE board.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1184, "id": 51747, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 115, "len_tokens": 142, "text": "There are two types of humidifier wicks out there.  This is the good type.\n\nThe cheap type takes a piece of material, perforates it and then stretches it out to form a honeycomb pattern.  It takes only a few pieces to make a wick.  Because so little material is used, it doesn't take long for this type to clog with minerals and need replacing.  They only last a month for me.\n\nBut this product is the good type which takes many pieces of material and glues them together.  This greater amount of material allows for more water to wick up, humidification occurs more quickly and the wick last me almost five months before needing replacement.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1185, "id": 132444, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 74, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "I've purchased this twice.  The first product worked great (5 star).\n\nThe second purchase would be okay (3 star).  While it seems to work,  I won't buy again.  Once installed, I can't get my \"water\" light to go off (keeps reminding me to change the filter, even though I did with this one).  I've unplugged my fridge, and restarted.  I've taken the filter and re-installed twice.  Nothing works.\n\nGreat price though!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1186, "id": 188823, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 147, "len_tokens": 179, "text": "It's a dishwasher and just having one is enough for me. It's a pretty easy set up.  My only complaints are the beep to let you know it's finished is too quiet and you're supposed to open the dishwasher to air it out after it's done.. So there have been a few times I didn't hear the beep and left it closed longer than the product said I should have. No harm came to the washer because of it. Also, despite the use of jet dry some of my dishes particularly my clear plastic cups come out foggy. If you were thinking of putting big pots and pans into this dishwasher, think again.. It's meant mostly for silverware, cups, bowls, plates.. Ect. I've always washed my pans by hand anyway. Otherwise, I'm really happy with this product. It came quickly, shipped well and it does its job.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1187, "id": 217350, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 156, "len_tokens": 197, "text": "We purchased this fridge on 11/5/2015 from our local Appliance dealer and paid $1.799 for it.  Within one month of owning it, the ice maker started having problems relating to making ice. The unit went from making about 3 pounds of ice a day (filling the storage bucket) to only dropping ice (6 cubes) once a day. After a replacement ice maker was installed, within 2 weeks we noticed a significant drop in the amount of ice being made. Now about 12 cubes of ice per day are being made. We received a BRAND NEW replacement of the same model on 4/5/16. Within one week we experienced the SAME ice maker issues.\n\nIf you are looking for a fridge that makes ice, DO NOT BUY THIS ONE. If you want a fridge that has a good solid energy efficiency, has lots of storage, but you don't care about ice, then this is a gem.\n\n1 star.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1188, "id": 291149, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 148, "len_tokens": 174, "text": "We bought ours from a local big-box - and saved quite a bit as they were on sale. But with regard to the product most people go here to buy - so here is where I'll review.\n\nWhen the units are stacked - as they are at my house - you cannot read the dial on the dryer if you're even near average height (I'm 5'5\", my husband is 6' and he's just able to see it).  they do require a lot more space than we anticipated ... so be sure you measure twice before you buy. in addition to the extra space, leave about 6-8\" for the dryer vent tube ... it takes up a lot of space too.\n\nWe really like the product though - we've run several wash & dry loads and have had no issues. I hope they hold up for the long-term!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1189, "id": 363873, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 101, "len_tokens": 112, "text": "Really impressed with the quality of these spill guards. There are more translucent than expected which is a bonus and they are very supple. As a result, they stick really really well to the counter top, so much that you have to peel the whole thing up to move it which is great.\nAlso really easy to cut with scissors if you need to trim to size. I trimmed mine around the front edge of my gas stove.\nTime will tell if these hold up to the side burner heat.\nWill update if any change in my current 5 star rating.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1190, "id": 402705, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 92, "len_tokens": 104, "text": "Been using it for more than a year--handles a single man's laundry needs only running it one day a week, maybe two loads if I'm doing sheets or whites separately. Drip dry or throw them into the dryer after spinning them... good for small spaces that have a dedicated area to set the machine above drain level so that water flows out properly. I used it primarily in the bathtub, filling it from the flexible shower head and then draining into the tub. Removing from tub after use out of my way.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1191, "id": 236986, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 141, "len_tokens": 172, "text": "Bought the repair kit and it was on my doorstep less than a week later.  Kit was pretty straight forward for me as I had already ripped the ice maker apart a couple times trying to correct it before knowing about this replacement kit option.\n\nThe included directions are poor at best -- decently written but the accompanying pictures were atrocious to follow.  If you have a mechanical aptitude, you will be able to muddle your way through this install though.\n\nAfter the install, no more dripping water from the ice maker so I have to give the fix itself a 5.  I am, however, disappointed in Whirlpool!  The repair kit instructions had a 10/05 date on them and my fridge was manufactured in 01/06!!  One would think that a major supplier would have corrected the problem knowing of the problem.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1192, "id": 346076, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 93, "len_tokens": 105, "text": "Just pick up my washer from the mail , it came on time package was perfect and I was so excited to try this washer and to my surprise it worked excellent and I just love it and I'm excited to tell others about it. Will be perfect in the winter, I washed two loads and they came out perfect, hope it last for a long time. It's just like a big washing machine , yaaay no more hassle to the laundry weekly only to do big things like towels blankets etc...... Love my purchase !!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1193, "id": 66158, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 114, "len_tokens": 130, "text": "It is amazing how well this worked. I have a 30 foot vent run and I didn't want to clean from both sides, so I used two sets of extensions. I had no trouble pushing the brush through the entire length with two 90 degree turns. One tip: I used a shop vac as a blower starting from the dryer side and pushed towards the outside. For such a long run, I noticed that the blower actually helped push the brush along and keep it straight. When I tried pushing without the shop vac running the brush started jamming in the pipe. This is an outstanding product and I can recommend it without reservation.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1194, "id": 43053, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 102, "len_tokens": 136, "text": "DO NOT BUY FOR USE WITH STANDARD TRASH COMPACTORS!!!  These bags are several inches too narrow to fit a standard (KitchenAid) trash compactor.  Every other brand I've ever purchased fit easily.  These require a major battle.  To make it fit, I must put a foot inside the top 6 inches on one corner and pull with both hands to stretch it until it visibly thins, then still wrestle it over the top corners of the compactor bin.  It seems like someone's idea of a bad joke.\nOn the plus side, they are unscented.  I'll just use them up but never purchase again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1195, "id": 477055, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 84, "len_tokens": 111, "text": "Our KitchenAid 'fridge/freezer was making a REALLY loud and obnoxious noise, so I pulled off the grill and looked to see if I could figure out what was wrong.  By turning on and off the power, I could see and hear that a fan was making the noise.  I Googled the manual (no longer had it) and looked up the part needed.  Arrived in 2 days and took about 5 minutes to replace; I figure I saved about $200 for a service call.  Awesome!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1196, "id": 255381, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 92, "len_tokens": 103, "text": "I have a Samsung fridge and I love it! When it came time to replace my filter and I saw the price of a Samsung replacement of $50, I about lost it. I came across these and purchased two of them. They fit perfectly and I cannot tell a difference in water taste, clarity or quality compared to the Samsung filter. Id almost say it it likely the same company makes this filter for both companies and one has a different label. Marketting is funny that way, but this product works great!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1197, "id": 66140, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 89, "len_tokens": 101, "text": "I love this product. It works great at removing the lint from the dryer and the duct work.  I also bought the extensions which also worked out great because the house I just bought has 18 feet worth of duct work.  The ends fit in my drill with some play so it's a tight fit.  The only bad thing I have to say about this is that the Shop Vac attachments didn't fit on the shop vac hose that I have. Other than that it is a great product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1198, "id": 168066, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 120, "len_tokens": 141, "text": "Maytag makes a crappy dishwasher these days, coasting on their reputation from years ago. Then when a problem rears its head, they will not stand behind their product. Instead they suggest a service call which might cost far more than putting the money toward a replacement with another brand. Look at Consumer Reports and avoid Maytag.\nSo the weak handle on my Maytag breaks regularly and I bought spares at six dollars apiece and changed them out when necessary. Now they stop production as they replace it with this three times more expensive 'fix' for this dilemma.\n\nThe service from this seller was A-1 for a quickly shipped and received new part as described. Could not have asked for more!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1199, "id": 7282, "interval": [100, 200], "len_words": 102, "len_tokens": 132, "text": "I've had an excellent experience with my Essick humidifier.  I purchased it 15 yrs ago and it is still running strong.  I live in the desert AND have hard H2O  I change my filter every 3 mos at least.  I sleep better with the moist air, not to mention what moisture does for your skin.  I also have an ultrasonic humidifier next to me on my night stand, so I really reap the benefits of clear sinuses AND moisturized skin.  Thank you Essick!  I love this product!  Anyone living in the southwest should have one in their bedroom and major living space.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1200, "id": 102680, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 226, "len_tokens": 273, "text": "I read all the negative reviews, and like you questioned it. But comparing to other fridges with lesser reviews I went ahead and purchased it. It was packaged tight, pretty heavy. Once unboxed and plugged in, I turned it on and waited. I followed the directions of allowing it to cool first, not filling with too much warm beers at first. I slowly filled it. The shelves are adjustable, I ended up removing 2 shelves leaving 3. The bottom shelf holds 22oz bottles perfectly, next shelf up is your typical 12oz bottles and the top shelf can hold either 12oz cans or 16oz cans... it can hold quite a few too. The beers get as cold as they would get in a actual fridge, I didn't have a temp gauge but I would say 40 degrees, maybe a tad colder. This is on the max setting which is fine. It cycles on every half hour which isn't bad. There is a switch inside the fridge that turns on the blue light that either leaves it on (all the time) or turns it off. I guess, older models the light came on when you opened it. This does not. I like it that way. The Blue light is really quite nice, almost a night light when its dark. I'm really happy with it. I hope it lasts.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1201, "id": 56250, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 175, "len_tokens": 209, "text": "This was a life saver....literally. My g/f bought a house and it came with a brand new dryer. The dryer was taking 2 hours to dry a regular load. After some investigating I discovered the previous owner had installed a booster fan within the dryer vent duct that was not rated for moisture. The fan died causing a massive clog of lent over the years leaving a dangerous fire hazard. After removing the dead fan this tool performed as expected and then some. It cleared the clog and cleaned every inch of the vent. Follow the instructions and you won't snap the rods at the joints. The shop vac attachment helps keep this job clean but I found it quite satisfying to see all the mess come flying out of the vent when I pulled the brush back. Just vacuum it up.\n****HINT****\nREINFORCE THE ROD JOINTS WITH ELECTRICAL OR DUCT TAPE. I was able to snake this tool through ducting with a sharper than 90 bend and still spin the tool with the drill.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1202, "id": 44111, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 164, "len_tokens": 205, "text": "We loved this ice maker, and it was wonderful even in our South Georgia heat when it worked, but it died after less than a year of use.  (Actually, the \"Add Water\" indicator light was DOA, but we didn't mind, because the ice was plentiful....) Unfortunately, because I had snapped up a deal on Amazon but didn't give it as a birthday gift for another three months, it was just out of warranty based on my purchase date.  Talked to NewAir customer service today, who were very friendly folks, but the best \"offer\" they could make us was more than the sale price on their website (sale price right now on their website with code LABORDAY is $123.47 with free shipping).  Would I buy another NewAir to replace the one that died?  Possibly, because this machine is amazing, but I'd make sure to buy an extended warranty with my purchase, and I'd be certain to report ANY issue you have with it immediately.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1203, "id": 14438, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 195, "len_tokens": 250, "text": "I remember my dad looking for a source of various filters (humidifier, dehumidifier, furnace, air conditioner, drinking water) for various appliances with increasing grimness.  The appliance might still be in good shape, but the store that sold it went out of business, and nobody else carried the same line.  Or the manufacturer made some minor tweaks to the design, which just happened to require a different filter, which just happened to make our unit obsolete.  Or it would simply be sold out, and nobody knew exactly when more would arrive.  Dad was a guy who worried, and finding replacement filters provided maybe 5% of his life's quota of worry.\n\nHow he would have enjoyed Amazon.  Exactly the right filter, often available from multiple manufacturers, cheap, and delivered within a few days.  Searchable by appliance model number.  Nice clear pictures.  User reviews which point out obscure features and problems.  Every time I order a filter from Amazon, I feel a little burst of thankfulness for the inventors of the Internet and to Jeff Bezos for bringing us Amazon.\n\nThis particular filter isn't especially easy to install or well designed, but it's EXACTLY the filter I needed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1204, "id": 352492, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 253, "text": "I really like my washer. It has issues but they don't outweigh the usefulness of the machine. I'm able to wash a load of towels (in 3 rounds), I'm able to wash all my undergarment at once, I'll soon wash a robe and pillow cases. I'm smart enough not to overload the machine with heavy garments at the same night. The wash is so quick, that you can wash 1 or 2 pairs of jeans at a time. The spin dryer is great. It really removes all the water out of the garment so you can wash out the remainder of the soak or put it out to dry. My machine came with a little piece broken on the side where the drain cord is located. I made my own hook, so that didn't disrupt my use. The drain works really well. It pumps out very quickly. My only issue that I can say that I deal with is that some of the time, the clothes in the washer balls up together. I usually loosen it with my hand or it does it itself. Other than that, I'm happy with my washer so far. I was given this product at a discounted price to review, I only review products I have used, know, like and trust.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1205, "id": 434791, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 177, "len_tokens": 202, "text": "Though  it is only a little over three weeks since we installed the hood, I will not hesitate to say that we love the hood. It has a sleek, contemporary design. It has very powerful  suction yet is noiseless. Thank goodness there is no more oil smoke or cooking smells in the house. The bright LED lamps allow for easy visibility into the cooking area. There are three different fan  settings to choose from. I particularly love the delay setting that turns off the fan a few minutes after cooking is done to eliminate any residual smoke/smell. The filters are removable and can be washed in the dishwasher. The oil collection pan is sleek and integrated transparently with the unit. We did comparison shopping before deciding on this unit. Units from other manufacturers within the same speed, aesthetics, and functionality were costing substantially more. We were apprehensive about purchasing on line but am glad we did it. This is the best value for the the money and is one of the best purchase decisions we ever made.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1206, "id": 149237, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 167, "len_tokens": 203, "text": "This ice maker replaces the OEM perfectly.  It took me less than 5 minutes to replace the original.  The wiring harness that came with the kit was not for the UK-Kit (it is designed for the IM series).  However, you can reuse the wiring harness from the old unit.  After loosening two upper screws and removing the lower bracket, the unit slips in perfectly.  Reattach the lower bracket, connect the cable, remount the unit and you are done!\n\nI would suggest filling the tray with water to hasten the freeze cycle along.  Otherwise you have to wait a day for the ice maker to cycle by itself.  It's been a week and the ice bin is full.\n\nMy original ice maker was leaking water into the ice bin each time the ice tray was filled automatically.  After 10 years of operation, the original unit was decomposing.  The plastic liner was worn and the exposed soft metal was eaten away by corrosion and began a small leak.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1207, "id": 241347, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 221, "len_tokens": 257, "text": "I am very thankful that this repair kit is available, and that there were very helpful customer reviews to read before beginning the repair project.  The instructions that come with the kit are nearly useless; I used youtube videos and the customer reviews here to help me.  Also, other vendors of the part kit would not allow me to order it unless I agreed to have their service contractor install it for $300 or more.  Best of all, the customer reviews helped me decide to not purchase the expensive press tool recommended with this part.  I am an elementary school teacher whose experience is limited to having repaired several of my own home appliances, and I was able to get a good fit on the bearings and drive shaft by using PVC pipe in various sizes, the old parts, and some metal tubes we had around the house.  Well worth the $80 or so I saved not buying that tool.  The entire repair took me about 3 1/2 hours, and that included cleaning out the lint trap and scrubbing soap scum off the basket before I put it back in.  I am assuming I did it right, because the machine is running and running quietly.  I estimate that amazon.com saved me about $400 by offering this product and the customer reviews.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1208, "id": 468518, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 259, "len_tokens": 298, "text": "With a lot of tweaking I was able to keep the temperature freezer 3 to -7 and refrigerator 40 to 36, unless you open the door or put room temperature items in it or it defrosts and that's with the temperature control turned up to about 90% as cold as it will go!\n I use a wireless temperature system ( sensor in freezer and sensor in refrigerator read out display sticks to the door, it's a reliable system).\n\n My last refrigerator was an Amana that I used for 20 years, I'm 56 years old and I've never heard such noises come out of a refrigerator in my life!\n I know when your refrigerator breaks it can be traumatic but don't buy one in haste like I did!!!\n\n The shelves are somewhat flimsy and if I had not put the top one back together the right way the glass would have broken because there was no support in the corner!\n I'm just hoping that it's more dependable than it first appears.\n The freezer is large( although no light )and the refrigerator door holds gallons of milk and such things nicely. It Uses its height to compensate for the width and depth making it easier to get through doorways and fit in smaller places in the kitchen.\n I would not recommend it if you have careless kids as I think they would end up breaking some shelving components, especially in the door.\n I know when your refrigerator breaks it can be traumatic but don't buy one in haste like I did!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1209, "id": 535161, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 225, "len_tokens": 278, "text": "I admit my refrigerator is nearly 15 years old and when it stopped working, I went to buy another (over $1200).  Described my problem to someone on a online site and based upon my description, they said ALL YOU NEED IS THIS PART!  I took a chance for around $10, my refrigerator is now working great again!  More specific, my refrigerator was freezing up, i.e. the coil was clogged with ice and wasn't sending cold air to the freezer or cold storage part of my refrigerator.  This thermostat clips to a coil and sends a signal that heats the coil long enough to defrost the build-up of frost and ice, allowing the fan to blow air through the coil and into the freezer and cold storage areas to keep everything at proper temperature.  For $10, I gambled and it worked!  Thanks to online support and quick shipping, I am back to normal.  SPECIAL NOTE:  Part numbers change over time so the number on original part in my refrigerator had to be cross-referenced to the present part number.  When looking online, different websites had both and/or either part number.  I did my research and this was the BEST price by far.  PRIME MEMBER so shipping was free.  Sites that had the part cheaper, were more expensive once you added shipping costs into the total price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1210, "id": 66667, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 244, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "I found the included accessories very useful and they fitted well into the ends of my dryer ducts.  The vacuum accessory's spout fit well into the hose of my shop vac.  The various pieces also fit together securely.\n\nThis was my first time to cleaning dryer ducts, so I ordered this kit after reading the reviews.  The only thing I wish the instructions had included were additional equipment and materials needed such as:  A shop vac, an electric drill that accepts 3/8 inch bits, electrical tape for securing the screw joints between the rods.  I also found 2 pairs of pliers useful for separating the rods during a session.\n\nI also wish the instructions had warned me about the rods twisting in loops if their length is outside of the dryer duct.  But a simple hand hold to secure the rod and keep it from bending and twisting solved that problem.\n\nThe electrical tape was prescribed in the instructions, but when I came to actually use the rods, it wasn't really necessary as the rods are threaded to tighten in the direction that the electric drill rotates.  Also, adding electrical tape to each joint as the rods are pushed further in would also mean that the tape would have to be removed as the rods where pulled out.\n\nOther than that, the brush worked its way through the ducts smoothly, and I managed to clean two sets of dryer ducts in about 1.5 hours.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1211, "id": 340036, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 214, "len_tokens": 262, "text": "I don't normally leave reviews (yes, sorry, I read them a lot but and not the best at leaving them) but this is one of the best purchases I have made from Amazon. Why Whirlpool brands (e.g., Kenmore) don't use metal instead of plastic is beyond me.\n\nBottom line:\n1. Easy to install - took 20 minutes from start to finish\n2. Metal instead of plastic - no plastic tabs to break (easily I might add) after the constant heating/cool down in the dishwasher. I expect the metal here to last much longer\n3. Quality - seems so far (I just installed it last night) to be of great quality. Very solid and stable as you roll out the top rack - the plastic used to sag. Also seems durable and like I won't have to replace it every year, unlike the plastic parts.\n4. Shipping - showed up 2 days before I expected it!\n\nOnly con was with the instructions. They are very detailed, but the pictures are a bit fuzzy. You can figure it out though if you are handy at all.\n\nAll you need to install is a flat head screwdriver (to take off the old parts) and a standard Phillips head screwdriver to install the new parts.\n\nHope this helps!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1212, "id": 87816, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 181, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "Works great. I used it and an extension kit with extra rods to to clean a 21 foot long vent with a two right angle turns and it did a fantastic job with the adapter that lets you put the rod through and attach a shop vac. Got a TON of lint out, about a 5 gallon bucket full. Inside of the vent was left shiny and clean. Good for safety especially with such a long vent and to my surprise the dryer actually works quite a bit better now. On the auto cycle I used to have to run it again if I was drying heavy things like jeans or blankets/comforters etc... to fully dry things. Now it does it in one cycle and take about 25% less time to go through the auto dry cycle.\n\nI was just wanting to clean out a potential fire hazard but it really does make a big difference running through a dirty vent vs. a clean one. Might be due to the long length of my vent but very happy with this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1213, "id": 96709, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 192, "len_tokens": 223, "text": "My problem was my original ice maker started overfilling the tray causing overflow into freezer and inability to move ice out of the tray as it was a huge block. Item was delivered on time and fit my Jenn Aire perfectly. Install could have been performed by my cat in about 10 minutes...took me about 3 and Was making ice in about and hour.  Make sure to push the wire into the unit firmly AND LOCKS. I found out the hard way after having it installed and then having to push it back in.\n\nAs you can see from the photo this is our extra space/ice making fridge. I ripped out all of the dispenser unit and cosmetic plastic and replaced with a basket that holds about 20 pounds of ice for my coolers. This unit makes about 10 pounds a day and fills the entire basket in less than 48 hours, then dumped into cooler.\n\nUPDATE. After a week the ice making pace is a bit quicker than the original. Still working fine. Haven't noticed any paint chips etc. but then again not looking as it is for our coolers only.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1214, "id": 301158, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 233, "len_tokens": 281, "text": "I've had this unit fir about three months, and I'm so glad I bought it. This is a big machine and will not fit under a counter in the kitchen,  so while it's an European design, it not tiny like those ones.  The machine can wash & dry a normal (about 5 outfits) sized load in around 3 hours.  Some things like towels come out feeling slightly damp,  but dry within 5 min,  or if you want them toasty, you can set the dry time for longer.\n\nThis machine is a million times quieter than either of my old units; however, during the spin cycle it can be a bit loud.  Balancing helps that, and the manual says you may have to add excess support to your floor of the shaking is too bad, but I don't think that it's a big deal and my floors have normal support.\n\nI've had no trouble with leaking; however, the unit does emit a bit of heat and humidity. I run it mostly at night so it doesn't matter, and a load during the day has only a small effect. The only con is cleaning out the lint which must be done after every load. It only takes a minute to wipe down the inside, but it's a bit of a pain.  However, the convenience of the combo unit far out weighs the extra cleaning step.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1215, "id": 40609, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 179, "len_tokens": 218, "text": "The idea to purchase this hood came from a vist to Ikea. There is a similar hood there but with FREE 2 day shipping (Prime/Student) Amazon is my first choice if they have what I'm looking for.  Broan products are basically ubiquitous being found in bathrooms and kitchens throughout the U.S. therefore I knew that the manufacturing of the item ought to be good.  The unit met my expectation in this regard and then some. I had planned to vent through the wall however some of the framing and the location of the plug caused me to have to vent through the roof.  If you're upgrading from a standard-style hood you may want to look carefully at what you may have to cut through to get this done, i.e. joists, rafters, ductwork.  I found the paperwork inside the\nunit behind the grease screen after a little searching and it took about 3 hours to install, not including a trip to the store for steel duct, roof boot, etc...  This is a good unit at this price, in my opinion.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1216, "id": 548105, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 168, "len_tokens": 204, "text": "Pros.\nMakes ice fast and it is flake style like it says.(BestPart)\nDecent looking.\nSome what easy install.\n\nCons.\nNeeds a door that seals ice melts extremely fast.\nTaller then under the counter so you can not put it in your exciting kitchen with the leveling legs unless you have 37\" or higher counters. With out legs it will fit.\nNeeded better description on the draining system. They should have mentioned needing to be plumed to a drain since the ice melts so fast. Not sure why I assumed it would seal like on a freezer door but it does not.\nI tried it with out with out pluming it to a drain first just to see how bad it would be. That was a bad idea don't try that lol!\nUse a tone thread seal very leaky.\nUpdate 3/24/2017\nI spent $80 on a better smaller filtration system from Home Depot that doesn't leak and have not had one issue since!!! Ice is perfect every time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1217, "id": 55147, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 190, "len_tokens": 234, "text": "Maybe I got a bad one, but this thing leaks like a sieve.  I installed it on an existing roof, and I've installed similar vents before.  The roof pitch is 6 in 12, so fairly steep.  After installing I waited a day and then soaked the area using a hose.  Water poured into the inside of the duct.  This means that the flashing was good and I had properly flashed it to keep water from getting under the flange and around the duct hole.  The problem is that the uphill seam on this are not soldered or sealed in any way.  Water seeped in through the bottom seam along the uphill side, into a small gutter around the 6 inch vent, and then down the vent hole.  I could not believe how poorly it was designed/manufactured.  I didn't want to remove roofing and pull the nails, so I sealed the uphill seam with silicon and put a piece of aluminum flashing along the seam to protect the silicon.  DO NOT BUY THIS.  It isn't worth the hassle.  There are plenty of other vents on the market that have sealed seams.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1218, "id": 530804, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 241, "len_tokens": 290, "text": "Been using the range for 4 months now, and it's been good. It does everything you'd expect a range to, and there are no issues so far. The dual-fuel and convection options are nice, I'd forgotten now great it is to bake with electric. The control panel does have a slight learning curve, but not too bad.\n\nSuggested improvements:\n1. Make the buttons on the control panel to have more of a tactile response. The only way to know if you've pressed a button is if the display registers it.\n\n2. Improved control on the stove gas controls. This range is far better than my old range, but half the output of the burner is \"high\" even though I would set this to medium.\n\n3. Applies to the stainless steel finish only: Make the stainless steel finish on 3 sides. For this model it's only on the front. In my kitchen, the side of the range is exposed and it's a dark gray enameled steel.\n\n4. The wifi connectivity isn't as great as the marketing makes it out to be. I need to press an \"remote enable,\" button on the stove anytime I want to use my phone to start the oven. This means if I want to preheat the oven before I leave work, I have to remember to push the button before I leave in the morning. An inconvenience, but I imagine it's there as a safety requirement.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1219, "id": 464038, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 201, "len_tokens": 255, "text": "I have used these for years in my humidifiers.  I guess they work.  I guess I dong really have any evidence either way.  I never have to actually change my water, so I guess that could be something good to say about them.  I still have to clean out my humidifiers every so often due to buildups, guessing that is stuff in the water though.  I so usually use these for 1.5-2 months total instead of just one month.  Adding a gallon of water or more to each humidifier every day.\n\nI ordered the Amazon two pack, which is exactly what it says, 2.  You get a total of two inserts.  The wording on the three pack says 3 packages of 2.  So Im wondering if you get 6 total, or if there is a typo.  That is why I ordered the two pack, if it was 4 it was a awesome deal (two packs of two) but if it was just two inserts (which it was) it was still a decent value, but nothing to praise Amazon over.  If someone knows of the 3 pack, please comment.  I plan on ordering it in a month or so anyways, to see.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1220, "id": 520852, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 198, "len_tokens": 232, "text": "Do not buy!!!!!  this product does not work properly at all. It is a serious fire hazard. My unit came with nothing to hook it up. I called the company and they told me to go to Home depot and get a part needed, but was not included in the package. I hooked it up and call them to make sure it was right. First, the burners flames a very low, even when on high. The spark ignitors only work consistently on two of the four burners. when during burner start up process, you have to hold the knob down for like ten seconds in order for it to stay on. Any less, the flame will go back out. Because the flames are so low, I have to switch pans when cooking multiple items i order to cook items at higher degrees. I have contacted the company and got no help. When trying to get the burner started, if you hold down the knob longer than 10 secs, it will send a flash flame that scares my teenagers.  Because the company is not reachable, this item is a big disappointment and bust.  DON'T WAS YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY!!!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1221, "id": 398374, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 188, "len_tokens": 232, "text": "After many hours of research, we found the Avallon Build-In Beverage cooler, and it was a great buy, and beautiful addition to our kitchen. The refrigeration is more than cool enough to keep beer and wine cold. What is also wonderful about the Avallon, is that it is perfect for juices, soft drinks, milk, eggs, anything that requires cooling. The shelves can be removed to allow for taller items, or for party trays. We are very happy with our purchace. Our prior cooler was an Avanti, which, we owned for twelve years. The cooler died at year ten. It was sufficient, but was not cool enough, louder compressor, and had a solid door, which wasn't as attractive. The Avallon compressor is quiet. It vents in front as well. The only con is that the door must be shut well or it pops open. Be sure the door is shut, because it is unlike a heavier refrigerator door with stronger suction. We also like the lightening options; a continuous white, blue, or auto, lighting only when opening. We will recommend the Avallon to anyone seeking a quality beverage cooler.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1222, "id": 468413, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 244, "len_tokens": 298, "text": "I am extremely unhappy with this oven.  The oven when turned on gets unbelievably hot both at the top of the range and on the front panel of the oven.  I have had it melt thick Rubbermaid tupperware sitting anywhere on top of the stove, and the front panel is HOT to the touch.  I was told by Frigidaire that it is normal that there is no insulation in the front door panel, and to keep children away from it.  Try keeping small children away from that!  This stove is dangerous!\n\nAlso, do not leave anything on or near the range while baking. The worst part is Frigidaire thinks that this is acceptable performance.  I also agree that having the broiler in the bottom drawer is not good. The drawer is difficult and awkward to open and close, which is not good when trying to broil, well, anything. I hate losing the storage from that drawer as well. The oven also bakes uneven.  There is a hotspot in the back left, and frequently the oven cooks faster or slower than it should.  Anything you cook in this oven has to be babysat, and I keep an oven thermometer in the oven because I do not trust its temperature reading, it's been inaccurate so many times.\n\nOn the positive side, the range burners are ok.  The Quick Boil burner does boil water quickly, and the grates are easy to throw in the dishwasher to clean.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1223, "id": 115853, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 180, "len_tokens": 218, "text": "I bought this item to replace a worn-out icemaker in our 14-year old Kenmore refrigerator. It had stopped making ice altogether, and my research pointed me to change this out first. The old icemaker's lining was pretty much gone, and information online indicated that caused the cubes to come out 'hollow', or not solid ice. It turned out the reason no ice was coming out at all was a water inlet valve failure; I bought one (also from Amazon), and between the two it resolved all our icemaking issues. All cubes are now solid and full-sized, just like new.\n\nInstallation was relatively easy. The hardest part was maneuvering my hands to reach the attachment screws in the confines of the freezer space. Remember to unplug your fridge or turn off the appropriate circuit breaker before doing any work on an appliance such as this one. As with any repair job, proper tools are important.\n\nIf you're having problems with your icemaker, be sure to look at both the icemaker and the water inlet valve--they work together to make your cubes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1224, "id": 30441, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 164, "len_tokens": 204, "text": "I had an older, stainless steel/rubber stopper that never worked to keep the water from draining out -- you could hear it seeping out.  That stopper went \"missing\" during a kitchen remodel.  I spoke with an Insinkerator representative about some of the newer garbage disposals on the market -- if the stoppers really kept the water from leaking out of the sink.  He said \"no, none of the stoppers are designed to totally stopper the sink\".\n\nI took a chance on this because of other favorable reviews, and I am glad I did!  I put water in the sink and left it overnight with no discernable loss of water.  So, I am keeping my older, working garbage disposal, ordered a replacement part for the mounting gasket, and am very happy to be able to use my sink as a stoppered sink!  I have no idea how long it will continue to work, but the price is reasonable therefore, I am happy with the product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1225, "id": 87865, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "Anyone who thinks they don't have a problem with lint should look at these pictures.  My house is only 10 years old and this is what came out of our vent.  That doesn't even include what was cleaned out from our dryer filter and what was in just the dryer unit.  This product is very easy to use.  I definitely suggest taping each junction to make sure they don't separate in the vent.  I broke my cleaning into 4 cleanings. Fist cleaning was with just the brush and the first extension.  After ensuring that section is clean I added the second and so forth until the brush came out clean.  Given the length of the brush with all four sections, I found it easier to have another set of hands guide the brush into the vent while the other set was operating the drill.\nI noticed that when I turned the dryer back on there was some lint that was dislodged and blew out the outside vent opening.  Unfortunately in my case some lodged between the slats and is keeping the vent opening from fully closing.  I will be making a trip up my ladder once the ground dries a little so I can remove those pieces.  A little price to pay for a clean vent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1226, "id": 509513, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 161, "len_tokens": 205, "text": "I bought this humidifier in late 2013 to add humidity to my guitar room.  (This is an average sized remodeled bedroom with new carpet, insulation, sheetrock, and double pane windows.)  It ran constantly and could rarely get the humidity above 35-40%.  Almost immediately, the electric fan motor began to run roughly and make a rattling noise.  Through no small miracle, one day I happened to be in the room when the fan motor just stopped and began to stink like hot electronics.  I unplugged it and called the company.  I will admit that they were very helpful and could not get me a replacement fast enough.  However, the new humidifier is no more effective and has started making the same rattling noise.  I'm afraid this one will get hot and stop as well.  I've monitored and maintained the unit as instructed and replaced the filters as directed.  If I could get my money back I would take it in an instant.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1227, "id": 380441, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 260, "len_tokens": 291, "text": "I had a washing machine hose burst once while no one was home.  Fortunately, the machine is on the first floor of the house which does not have a basement and there was no damage.  It could have been a disaster and these hoses are meant to prevent a flood.\n\nThe biggest problem I had with these is the larger than normal ends of the hose that attaches to the water supply.  I have a valve with a lever that goes up for off and down for on.  The ends of this hose prevented the lever from fully going down to the on position and I had to struggle with it to get the end of the hose in just the right position.  Just be aware that these may not work with your valve.  Other than that, I had no problem with installation.  However, these are more expensive than the normal rubber washing machine hoses and according to the directions they have to be replaced every five years.  The regular washing machine hoses should also be replaced every five years.  So why not just save some money and buy regular hoses?  The only reason I can see is that these have an automatic shutoff built into the hose that will turn off the water supply if they burst.  This alone can save a lot of damage, money and headache if a hose should burst.  It is still recommended to turn off the water supply valves when the washing machine is not in use to relieve the pressure on the hoses.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1228, "id": 136028, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 212, "len_tokens": 250, "text": "I purchased the Whirlpool Cooktop Protectant 31463A twice on Amazon since I've owned my Maytag range. The first bottle was shaped with a long neck. I found it to glide on easily and kept the top smooth with a nice coating. The newest bottle I purchased has a shorter neck, but both have the same product number and information on the bottle. I have found the newer product is leaving streaks and does not go on well at all. I had some left in the older bottle and did a side-by-side comparison and the newer product is really lousy. I noticed the product color is slightly different and there is a different smell.  I've tried it several times and I keep getting the same results -- streaks and it is not leaving the coating needed for protection. I am using a soft cloth and have even used paper towels (I've probably wasted one-half of a roll).  I called Maytag and Whirlpool to ask if they changed the formula and got the run around. They sent me to a distributor who only wanted to sell me the same stuff. They didn't answer my question. This new one is not working at all for me. I liked it the way it was before.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1229, "id": 86047, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 190, "len_tokens": 222, "text": "The more that I use these refills, and or the filter itself that is already loaded with the granules, the more that I get the feeling that these things don't do a damn thing! For what they cost, I still get the white dust all over the place and I change these things every two weeks, with no results. This will be the last time that I purchase the refills or the filter itself, as my room looks the same with or without this thing, full of white dust and a hazy smoke color that lingers in the sunlight! Also, if you buy this refill kit for your filter case, be ready for your humidifier to shut down due to low water, as these kits cause the filter to plug up, not allowing your tank to completely drain. My humidifier will shut down from the low water alarm, though it still has 1/4 tank full of water in it. This does not happen if I buy the pre filled filters, it only happens when I fill my filter with the granules from this kit. It's annoying to say the least!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1230, "id": 386640, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 166, "len_tokens": 261, "text": "<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-8182119-Washer-Front-Seal/dp/B002ZNPA7I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool 8182119 Washer Front Seal</a>I purchased my Whirlpool duet front-loading washer (model# GHW9250MW1) back in June of 2004. I recently noticed a number of holes in the washers door seal.  After doing a lot of research I decided to take on the project myself instead of paying for a service call. The price I paid on Amazon was by far the cheapest I could find and it was a genuine Whirlpool part.  Of course the information I collected in regards to installing the baffle made it look a little easier than it actually was but after all was said and done it took me just under 45 minutes and that included extra cleaning while the machine was apart. The best reference I can suggest is a YouTube video \"Duet/HE3 Washer Door Boot Seal Replacement (part #8182119)\".  It steps you through the process with the basics.  I would strongly recommend this product and I had no issues with the seller at all.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1231, "id": 197160, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 188, "len_tokens": 234, "text": "These covers are attractive, arrived quickly, and do a fine job of keeping crumbs and scraps out of the burners that I'm not using, which is what I was aiming for.  (I'm not sure why a previous reviewer thought they would be useful to cover hot burners -- seems to me that covering a hot burner with a metal cover is just going to heat up the cover.)  I'd suggest, however, that anyone thinking of buying these or other burner covers be more sensible than I was and measure your burners before ordering.  The large covers are 9.75 inches in diameter and the small covers are 8 inches; sadly, the small covers proved to be too small for my stove.  I'm still very pleased with the large ones, though.\n\nFIVE MONTHS LATER:  The black coating started peeling off a couple months in and it's just getting worse.  They look pretty awful.  I'm keeping them until I can find better ones because they still keep crumbs and scraps out of the burners I'm not using, but I'd recommend you save your money and buy something else to start with.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1232, "id": 190889, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 241, "len_tokens": 290, "text": "I'm not one to get excited about home appliances but this dryer by Amana has me all twitterpated. After getting it hooked up I couldn't wait to use it. I had been using a dryer that I'm pretty sure came into style during the Eisenhower administration. My previous dryer took forever to dry, the clothes were always wrinkled, and it made loud thumping noises. I was in shock when my new Amana dryer quietly fired up and began instantly drying my clothes. It didn't take long at all for the first load to finish, and myclothes were almost perfectly pressed-looking. No more wrinkled T-shirts for me. I liked how the dryer occasionally started spinning again, albeit with no heat, until I removed my load. That kept the wrinkles from setting in.\n\nAt 6.5 cubic feet, I was able to put a lot of wet clothes into it. It held almost twice as much as my previous dryer. I used a fabric sheet, and it made everything smell as if they had been drying outside on a Spring day. There was no burnt or moldy smell like my old dryer. I am just tickled pink with my new dryer, and now I plan on buying the washer to go with it. I like the modern styling of this dryer, and it coordinates well with everything in my utility room. I could not be happier with my Amana dryer. Definitely a 5-Star product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1233, "id": 516945, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 254, "len_tokens": 296, "text": "DO NOT BUY THIS PRODUCT! If I could give 0 stars I would. My mom has had a broken dishwasher for 11 weeks now because a GE repair man that was called for a detergent clog, broke our control panel on our GE Profile Dishwasher. So he got the part delivered to us. We had another service call cancelled 6 weeks later by the same GE repair company an hour before they were supposed to be here. Instead of sending someone new out they got the same guy to come out who didn't even knock on our door and left a \"we missed you\" note even through we took off of work for this repair call a 3rd time. I was sitting in the room with the door right next to me, with my 2 small dogs who would've definitely noticed a knock. Now; because it has been 11 weeks since the claim GE is saying these services are out of warrenty and are refusing to fix the machine that they have broken. Please spread the word on this... do not buy these products and do not spend your money on the warrenty because GE doesn't honor their wsrrenties. This extortion is not right.... General Electric won't even let my mom talk to a supervisor and they will not give her their real names. We will be returning the 5 appliances we have bought this year because of the lack of compassion this company has. Pick up an LG or Samsung instead. TRUST ME.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1234, "id": 458557, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 225, "len_tokens": 284, "text": "Wow, the problems with this machine!  We bought an extended warranty, and thank goodness!  In the 3 years we had a warranty, 3 times it needed service calls.  And each of those instances required multiple visits from the repair company!  And then once the warranty was up, started making those same awful noises again.  Completely died this time, and it's more expensive to have a repairman come out than to buy a new dishwasher (got myself a cheap one this time, forget it).  I'm shocked at how crappy this dishwasher was!  I have had an LG refrigerator for 10 years, it's still perfect!  We ripped the dishwasher apart to see what went wrong.  The thing is designed horribly.  Apparent leaks all over the bottom, and the part that is supposed to catch grease in the drain line had instead dripped it onto a resistor in the bottom, which showed signs of having burned.  We got lucky our house didn't burn down.  And on top of all that, when I got my new (cheap) dishwasher, I realized how badly this LG had been cleaning our dishes!  Add in the fact that LG doesn't make a dishwasher in their Titanium finish (they only make the fridge in that, it's the touchless stainless look finish, it's fantastic), and I doubt I'd ever buy another LG dishwasher again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1235, "id": 253203, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 188, "len_tokens": 226, "text": "These filters have changed. Organize the reviews under \"most recent\" and they're all one star!!\nI ordered the triple pack.\nI measured the water flow on the filter that had been installed for 12 months and got 0.5 gallon in 55 seconds.\nI figure over a year the filter gets full/blocked and slows down the rate of flow. Previously when I have installed a new filter the flow rate is noticeably faster.\nNot with this one! I installed this new filter, which had different labeling from the previous one, even though I re-ordered  from the link of my previous order. The flow rate on this new filter is 66 seconds per 0.5 gallon, even after I ran two gallon through it first.\nI live in an area where the drinking water has no taste, so I cannot advise like many other users who complain that they are drinking tap water from this filter, with horrible taste.\nHowever, the substandard flow rate, and the number of recent negative one star reviews is reason enough for me to return my order, as I no longer have confidence in this filter.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1236, "id": 126262, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 226, "len_tokens": 279, "text": "I have nothing but great things to say about this Rotating Hot Air Styler because it takes all the hard work and need for multiple and different styles and blow dryers. I saw something similar to this product on TV several times but was never able to catch the info for ordering the INFINITPRO SPIN AIR BRUSH. I purchased this Hot Spin Air Brush to help cut down the need for multiple Styling Products like Blow- Dryers, Curling Iron, Straighteners as it gives you the task of doing your hair and keeping the bothersome needs for different styling products, and face it wouldn't you prefer the ease of styling  your hair with one product versus 3-4 I do and the look you can get.with the same styles.as you would get with multiple products. I am tremendously satisfied with this great product of 1 product versus 3-4 of the others but another great feature is that it has 3 settings and the best part is the rotating  feature you can use for that beautiful  shine and polished look you expect from all your other hair care needs, so yes I recommend this INFINITPRO SPIN AIR BRUSH BY CONAIR, THE ONE GREAT COMPANY THAT GIVES YOU GREAT PRODUCTS TO SAVE YOU TIME AND MONEY AND IS AFFORDABLE. I GIVE IT A 5 STARS AND YOU WON'T BE DISAPPOINTED", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1237, "id": 519525, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 184, "len_tokens": 220, "text": "Overall, I'm very happy with this washer.  It's quiet, cleans a surprising amount of clothes, and leaves them more than dry enough to put on a drying rack without any fear of dripping.\n\nTwo minor complaints:\n1. It ties your clothes in knots!  Something about the agitation process gets your clothes so tangled that they become knotted together.  When it hits the spin cycle, each side of an item can end up on opposite sides of the tub and it's getting pulled and stretched apart.  If I'm paying attention, I'll usually pause the machine before the last spin cycle and unknot some things just to try to prevent possible damage.\n2. As addressed elsewhere, it becomes very destabilized if you try to wash a small load.  Setting it to use a large amount of water helps, but that's not a great option.  I mostly bought this to avoid hand washing exercise clothes several times a week.  I ended up having to buy several extra sets anyway so that I can have something to use until I have enough laundry to do one large load.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1238, "id": 471213, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 162, "len_tokens": 206, "text": "Update 2:  I receive a email and callback as promised by the Customer Service lady who took my information and promised to have someone call me back.  The email stated that Ramblewood would honor their warranty and replace the cooktop.  5 days later I received and installed the new cooktop in the motorhome with no hassles or complaints.\n\nThe only reason I don't rank this 5 stars is because the way you have to adjust the burner flame is by using a long shaft jewelers screwdriver inside the burner adjustment stem.  Both the original and replacement cooktops required adjustment.  Note to manufacturer:  please redesign this by placing the adjustment along side the stem or include the screwdriver with the unit.\n\nUpdate: Called Ramblewood today to see if they will cover this under warranty.\n*****************************************************************************************************************************************\nThe glass top shattered while boiling water tonight.  Good thing the surface around the burners is safety glass.  Unfortunately the return window expired 2 days ago.  Not happy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1239, "id": 292112, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 186, "len_tokens": 225, "text": "The SPT UF-214W upright freezer fits our needs perfectly.  Its foot print is small so it takes up a minimum of space.  But it is just the right size on the inside to easily accommodate the overflow from our refridgerator/freezer.  We are now able to stock up on more frozen goods at one time than before, thus cutting the number of visits to the store or online purchase site. More frozen food on hand, more choices for dinner.  There is only one small complaint, but it did keep me from giving this freezer five stars.  There should be an external light showing the machine is getting power.  It runs so quietly I\"m never sure if it is running or not. So, I keep opening the door from time-to-time to make sure it is keeping things cold. It always is and despite changes in the temperature around it on the outside, it is always holding steady at just below zero in the inside. It would be nice to have a light in the interior, but I'll give it a pass on that.  We can live without it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1240, "id": 54664, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 228, "len_tokens": 266, "text": "I have read a lot of bad reviews for this and I'm baffled that people think an entire brand of washers is bad because they had a bad experience. I have had my set for 3 years now. I have had no problems nor have I had to have a service done on the machine. Every electronic device can have problems. Nothing is perfect. That doesn't mean the manufacturer is bad or the line is bad. If you have a lot of laundry to do, like 4 or 5 loads a day because of a large family, chances are high that you'll blow the pump early because it's not a commercial machine. And even then, a large family would wear out a commercial machine before it's time. Myself, my husband and our roommate have all had to wash big and small loads over the years and it hasn't quit on us yet. We're all military and have to have our uniforms looking good. It gets military uniforms cleaned after being in the field or other dirty jobs. And my top loader couldn't. All I'm saying is that if you blow a tire on your car because it was bald, you don't blame the tire maker or the car maker. As for customer service, I haven't had the pleasure of dealing with that so I can't speak to it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1241, "id": 220289, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 182, "len_tokens": 223, "text": "Stay away from Electrolux.  I purchased a similar pair from the home depot back in 2011 and it has been a disaster.  The pulley that drives the tub on the washer is not securely fastened to the shaft causing it to wobble and come loose during the spin cycle.  Worse yet the pulley will actually cut into the tub of the washer causing water leakage inside the cabinet and corrosion on all the electrical components.  The control board gets wet and could even short sparking a fire.  I called Electrolux to repair my unit with one month left in the warranty.  All they did was replace the pulley and belt but left the broken tub in place.  Now this tub is leaking water all over the inside of the unit and into the pedestal drawer.  Electrolux are thieves.  Don't believe all those positive reviews on the site.  They are false reviews posted by contractors hired by the company to try to fend off the evidence of the failure of their products in the market place.  Stay way from Electrolux....you have been warned.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1242, "id": 50882, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 203, "len_tokens": 229, "text": "It is getting increasingly difficult to find a electric cooktop that is not a smooth top unit. My ancient cooktop quit working, so I bought and installed this one which my wife likes much better than the old one. We haven't noticed any more heat around the coil areas than the old unit had; yes, within an inch or two of the coil it is very hot, but I think that is to be expected. We haven't noticed any undue flexing of the unit. The knobs give a much wider range than our old stove that had pushbuttons, so can control the heat much better. It cleans up easy enough.\n\nInstallation was pretty straight forward, other than some retrofitting that I had to do as the old unit was some odd size a little larger than this--not the fault of this unit. I imagine that someone halfway handy with tools and knowledgeable enough on electrical wiring could replace an existing cooktop in one to two hours. I think I did our install in about four hours and that was with making the counter hole smaller so the unit wouldn't fall through and a trip to the hardware store to get some wire nuts.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1243, "id": 38963, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 237, "len_tokens": 296, "text": "This is the second Nostalgia KRS-2100 Keg-O-Rator Refrigerated Beverage Keg Dispenser I orderdered and returned, first one I ordered was damaged on the inside at the factory and ths second one had a warped cabinet and I could only get two wheels to touch the floor (titer-toter effect).  Saying all that; Amazon was all over it and took care of business,excellent support.  All of this, taking them out of the boxes setting them up finding the damages repacking and sending them off takes alot of time, so Its been about a month and I have one on the way from another company (made in the USA) not china.  My one request for Amazon is to seek out more made in America products and for the rest of you out there pay a little more get a better product and seek American made products its pretty obvious our government officials are just going to keep arguing and nothing ever gets done until the last minute, so lets bring America back up to glory one product at a time \"Buy American\". My family and my New Years resolution is to buy American,but you can't really find everything you (NEED) made here in the USA but we try our best not to buy anything made in china or one of the stans....afganistan, packistan etc.....other countrys are all right Japan, Korea, Mexico, Canada etc....look at your labels.  Thanks", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1244, "id": 494384, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 191, "len_tokens": 223, "text": "I just got it today. should work perfectly with trangia burner for which it was designed.  very light weight even in the ss version.  the wind screen fits in slots on the burner holder and is adjustable for wider pots and pans.\nkind of expensive for what it is, but there are no real economical choices unless you want to make one yourself.  if you do, you will probably wish you had bought this one.  buy good and cry once.\n\nupdate March 2014: this bad boy is now $15 less than i paid here. i assume the price will go up again when the weather warms up. this is an essential item for back packing with alcohol stoves. i should also note that Trangia is now making a very similar unit themselves.\n\nanother comment: you can see this in action on YouTube. as he points out, your pot has to be wide enough to fit on the supports but not too wide to not fit inside the windscreen. if you are going to use something you already have or are getting at the same time, you might want to check first.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1245, "id": 87705, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "Anyone who thinks they don't have a problem with lint should look at these pictures.  My house is only 10 years old and this is what came out of our vent.  That doesn't even include what was cleaned out from our dryer filter and what was in just the dryer unit.  This product is very easy to use.  I definitely suggest taping each junction to make sure they don't separate in the vent.  I broke my cleaning into 4 cleanings. Fist cleaning was with just the brush and the first extension.  After ensuring that section is clean I added the second and so forth until the brush came out clean.  Given the length of the brush with all four sections, I found it easier to have another set of hands guide the brush into the vent while the other set was operating the drill.\nI noticed that when I turned the dryer back on there was some lint that was dislodged and blew out the outside vent opening.  Unfortunately in my case some lodged between the slats and is keeping the vent opening from fully closing.  I will be making a trip up my ladder once the ground dries a little so I can remove those pieces.  A little price to pay for a clean vent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1246, "id": 457246, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 173, "len_tokens": 212, "text": "We bought this washer at The Home Depot in 2009 and it has never really worked flawlessly.  Initially, the machine would stall at minute 8 of the spin cycle.  The repairman felt the loads might be too small???  My clothes never really felt fresh unless I used the longest cycle and added an extra rinse, which takes 72 minutes per load.  There are only two of us so the machine was only gently used by one adult (me).  Today it stopped working altogether.  We got about two and a half years of use out of it because we only live part time here.  That is unacceptable for a washing machine.  They don't sell this model any more but I would still avoid Amana/Maytag.  Rather than dump more money into this cheap washer, I purchased an LG today.  I would have preferred a top loader but because I must stack due to space constraints, I was forced into another front loader.  Hopefully this one will give me years of service, as they should.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1247, "id": 66744, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 177, "len_tokens": 220, "text": "After reading some of the lower rated reviews I was concerned that the product might be fragile or easily damaged.  But, the parts are actually very well made.  The instructions are very detailed and I was careful to follow them to avoid any broken rods or brushes.  My dryer ductwork enters the wall on the second floor, immediately turns 90 degrees straight up, and exits at the the roof vent.  I moved the dryer out of the way and cleaned the duct from inside the house.  I used the vacuum adapter and it worked well.  The 90 degree bend was no problem.  I think the trick is to keep the speed slow, and with your drill clutch adjusted to prevent any overtorque in case the brush or rod gets stuck.  The instructions are clear about this.  I had no sticking problems.  I ran the drill at about 200 rpm and worked the rod into the duct slowly.  It probably took me 10 minutes to clean the entire 11-1/2\" duct, including stopping to connect each rod.  Great product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1248, "id": 334440, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 195, "len_tokens": 255, "text": "I purchased this package after much research.  Our dryer, GE model DBXR463ED1WW, began squealing/screaming/saying unspeakable things, and black marks were showing up in our clothes. Many articles of clothing were also found hanging inside the drier when done drying.  This package contained everything needed to replace the inside upper plastic half circle that was breaking away, as well as the 4 drum slides (*****make sure you confirm on the directions, the green ones go on top, the white ones on the sides****).  As soon as it was all put back together, the drier was as quite as when it was BRAND NEW. Literally, whispering. Not even rumbling!!!  Also, with changing out the felt strip and vacuuming out the circular vent in the bottom of the door, the drier heated up so much more quickly, and our clothes are drying in 1/3 of the time it had been taking!! SO, we saved money by not buying a new drier, are saving money on not replacing the eaten pieces of clothing, and will be saving energy as things are drying quickly!!!  And to top it all off, this part was delivered 2 days SOONER than expected!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1249, "id": 100055, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 194, "len_tokens": 245, "text": "The washing part is fine: fast, efficient. Then comes the rinse...  You have to get the soapy water out and replace with rinse water. Must either: 1. insert rinse tube on bottem that opens a valve and gravity drain out or 2. open top and tip it out, holding back the clothes with your hand. The dirty water is inefficiently expelled either way, the clothes are still wet with dirty water. You're not spinning the dirty water off, just slowly draining. So, you want to do some extra rinsing. You remove the drain tube, open up the top, add fresh water, spin, then put the tube back on, drain it out, take the tube off, open the top, add more water, spin... Get it? It's splishy splashy annoying. Finally, you have to reach in and pull out the sopping wet clothes. Cannot spin the water off your clothes in the barrel. (There should be a short drain tube option to open up the drain valve and still let the barrel spin, so if you're outside you can just spin off the rinse water). I'm going to buy a bucket and breather plunger instead.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1250, "id": 1283, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 100, "len_tokens": 205, "text": "As so many other commentators have posted, the original filter thickness was 1.25 and now much of what is being offered at Amazon instead ships thinner filters (0.75) which are GROSSLY  inferior  See the difference at [ ... ]g and http://www.amazon.com/review/R3IT1HZIKZX5WY?ie=UTF8&videoPreplay=1 .  Moreover, while some of the photos shown would (proportionally) appear to be the original thickness what Ive received from several retailers are the thinner filters.\n\nFor a great discussion thread on this topic and instructions on how to buy the original filters (HAC-504OS, $12.99 ea) see http://www.amazon.com/review/R21QW3XX459H67/ref=cm_cr_pr_cmt?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B000RDAORO&linkCode=&nodeID=&tag=#wasThisHelpful (scroll up to see the original comment by CTB.)", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1251, "id": 478484, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 246, "len_tokens": 291, "text": "Used this motor to replace a Whirlpool 279787 Drive Motor.\n\nIt is easy to unscrew the blower blade from the fan, just make sure you see how the threads go, then use a wrench or vice grips on your old motor to hold it in place. Gently unscrew the fan blade.\n\nThis motor needs to understand to turn off if: the bent breaks, the door opens, or you get super high temps in the dryer.\nIt does this ( in mine) by a blue control wire. This is the wire that goes into arm for the belt holder.\n\nAs a quick and dirty fix, what did was i CUT the blue wire for the molex plug that goes into the motor about 6 inches away from where the plug is. This way if i was wrong, it was an easy fix.\nThen i hooked one end going from the controls into one arm of the arm for the belt. They other end coming from the belt arm went into the wire going into the molex plug that was going to the motor.\n\nThink of it as just extending that blue wire  going from the cut 6 inches away from the molex, all they way through the system to the belt arm, the dryer door, and the high temp, before it goes to the motor. This way if any of the 3 safety items fail, the unit turns off. ( Door opening is consider a fail for this :P  )", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1252, "id": 97833, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 192, "len_tokens": 214, "text": "Most of the negative reviews complain that the unit will only last a couple of years and that it is very noisy. I bought my unit six or seven years ago and have had no problems that could not be fixed with a complete defrost l.e. turn it off for several hours. You have to defrost it a couple times a year. The unit makes a lot of ice very quickly.  My unit works great and we get a lot of use out of it. Now for the noise. It is loud, very loud. If you plan on installing it in a room you live in look for another product. I installed mine in the laundry room so can't hear it. As long as you can install it behind a closed door you should not hear it. The unit is very easy to install if you have very basic plumbing skills. Installation kits are available at most home centers. You need a 110 volt grounded outlet nearby and a water source like a sink or toilet as far away as you want to run the water line. Not bad for the money.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1253, "id": 38984, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 231, "len_tokens": 296, "text": "I'm on my 4th Keg of Kona Brewery Longboard Lager now.  I got the model with a stainless steel door with free shipping to Hawaii.  That alone is a GOOD DEAL.  One essential modification I made was to add a cooling tower unit built from standard Radio Shack parts consisting of a plastic project box, a small computer fan, some flex conduit, and an AC to DC plug running the power line thru the drain hole....works great chilling the tap tower.  It takes a few days for the beer to get down to 36 degrees, but it eventually does.  Set the regulator btwn 10 and 12 and then enjoy excellent draft beer.  Oh and the other accessory I got was the delux beer line cleening kit which is necessary to use between kegs.  On the down side, the 2.5 pound Co2 bottle could not be locally filled, so I had to purchase a pair of 5 pound Co2 bottles.  The 5 pound bottle fits inside the Kegerator on the shelf in the back just fine.  The rubber strap to hold the Co2 bottle in place is useless.  I use a short rubber cargo strap.  Dispite some of the negative reviews, this is a fine Kegerator that does what its designed to do, that being to give you consistent cold draft beer. I could not be happier with my new Nostalgia Kegerator!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1254, "id": 455903, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 166, "len_tokens": 206, "text": "I bought this item in October 2009. It makes very little ice at a time, and the ice tasted horrible for the first month, but at least it worked. It IS very heavy, and would NOT be portable.\n\nI contacted customer service about the taste of the ice and they were very helpful, but I found running the machine for that month got rid of the problem.\n\nIn February the ice \"pusher\" broke off. It's held in place with a tiny plastic arm that I'm surprised didn't break sooner. Without it the bucket which holds the water to be frozen gets stuck after 2-3 loads of ice drop. I emailed them to ask if the part is available, and they said no. No repair has helped.\n\nToday (March 14th) the Start button has stopped working. The machine is now nothing more than an expensive, heavy, door-stopper.\n\nFor the price I paid I expected at least 2-3 years of use out of it! I am beyond disappointed.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1255, "id": 73552, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 215, "len_tokens": 271, "text": "The exterior of this machine is elegant stainless steel and a beautiful addition to any kitchen.  Unfortunately, if you ever want to crush ice, you will be in for a frustrating experience.  The conical hopper on top invites you to dump in ice.  Not so.  The cubes will not fall through individually.  Instead, you have drop ice in one cube at a time.  The second time I used it, the machine jammed.  I am handy with tools, so I removed the top and extracted a cube that had jammed the mechanism.  One of the rotating blades that crushes the ice had bent over sideways and had jammed against a stationary bar.  I had to completely disassemble the machine in order to clear the jam.  I crushed another tray without incident.  The next time, the machine jammed again, requiring complete disassembly. Now, it jams just about every time, but thus far, I've been able to clear the jam without disassembling the unit.  I never bothered to permanently reattach the lid.  I have to have access to the mechanism just about every time I use it.\n\nThe motor is powerful and the gear mechanism appears sturdy enough, but the crushing blades needs to be more robust.  I would not recommend this machine to anyone, under any circumstances.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1256, "id": 536943, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 191, "len_tokens": 232, "text": "I bought the entire GE cafe line for my remodel. This fridge came with peeling trim and loose drawers that close improperly from day one. It stopped cooling after two months. I think this model has a defect and dealing with GE customer service is a truly trying ordeal. They give you the old \"we'll send a guy in a week between 8:00am- 5:00 pm, and only call you 30 min before they come\" it's nightmare for people who work during normal hours. After having bought only GE appliances for ten years and two house remodels I'm done with the brand. Stay away if you want a working fridge\n\nUPDATE: 1 year later and it is functioning, but incredible loud. I had to take the back metal gating off the unit beacasue it was literally jammed against the compressor, which vibrated the entire casing. Very poor quality. GE quality is gone, avoid the brand as I should have done. go with LG or samsung to get a basic build quality one would expect from a 2500 dollar unit. i tried to return the unit but was denied that option by GE.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1257, "id": 14028, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 214, "len_tokens": 259, "text": "Shipping was prompt; I received the unit in just a few days.  The installation took about 10 minutes and it is effectively removing the odor from my well water.  It is easy to use; just make sure you are running cold water and pull out the pin on the faucet attachment, then, to stop push the pin in.  When the water is on and the pin pulled out, it does leak a little water at the faucet connection.  I don't see this as a problem since it does not leak when the water is turned off.  At first, the unit dripped a little water after use.  I just tipped it to pour out any residual water; after a few uses, it no longer dripped after use.  From other reviews, I understand this is a one use unit.  There are no replacement filters; the whole unit is replaced.  With normal use, based on the manufactures specs, it should last a year.  The unit came with multiple faucet fittings to accommodate various faucet types.  The fitting on the unit worked fine with my faucet.  It is portable and seems like it would work for travel purposes as well.  All and all, I am happy with the unit; it is a quick and inexpensive fix for me.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1258, "id": 274264, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 156, "len_tokens": 232, "text": "Very handy!  I have had it for about4-5 years.  Operates best when... 1. small load in washing machine/ 2. wring dry with a spin dryer. 3. hang for a few hours. 4. give a shake. 5. Hang in dryer.. 6 .try 15 minutes high fan high heat.. If not enough go for 30 minutes..  /  very dry..... ( hanging bar holds 4. I can use 5.. also hang from the shirt/clothes hanger.on either end..(one shirt hanger.. three items. 30 minutes. ) It also works beautifully for DRYEL dry cleaner.. hang dry cleaner bag with clothes inside by clothes pins onto a clothes hanger..----and go for 30 min. high fan and high heat...\nThe digital buttons for power and timing require a precise push.. on it not near it..  .. (It is worth a little practice and work to avoid HAVING to do everything at the laundromat.  It can be done within  a reasonable time period if planned...  )", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1259, "id": 455166, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 200, "len_tokens": 229, "text": "I purchased this item a couple of years ago and have loved how it operates and it produces a lot of ice for my cooler during the day.  I have never had a problem until, recently after a RV trip with our ice maker, it stopped working.  I ended up founding that it must be the water pump.  I contacted NewAir Support department and found their service to be excellent.  When I received the pump, it wasn't the same as the one I took out of my Ice Machine.  I called the Support department and the lady in that department was very sorry for the problem.  She told me to take a picture of the old pump and a picture of the new one they sent and send it to her by e-mail.  In the same day she was able to determine that my pump and been upgraded to a different one and she went to the technician's and they found one just like the one I took out.  She immediately had the pump sent to me the same day with no charge to me.  It's great to work with people like NewAir Support.to see that their customers were happen.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1260, "id": 294307, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 172, "len_tokens": 221, "text": "So far so good. Just installed it yesterday without fanfare or anomalies. Prep'd it by filling it with water. Ran a couple of gallons of water through it. I gave it four stars just because there's no emotion involved in a functional item for me.ers\n\n[2015-1121]\nLove the speed of delivery. Probably just too cheap to buy another before... no, I had a reason. When I bought my fridge, the place that sold the filters was far away and the filters were expensive. I've always been rather debt-ridden most of my working life and couldn't see parting with $80 (that's what the sales guy said they cost). So, when the filter needed a reset, I did it. And, when the flow slowed, I just let it. But, that wss then, and this is now. If you need one, buy it - no, not for health reasons... just 'cuz everyone who uses the dispenser will smile and giggle and say wonderful things to you, like, \"How come you waited so long?\"", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1261, "id": 102303, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 198, "len_tokens": 229, "text": "Unit arrived undamaged and worked right out of the box. Door was assembled a bit crooked and overall quality is mediocre but looks good from a distance. Have had it about 5 weeks now and it is doing its job- drinks stay sufficiently cold, good capacity, internal fan helps a lot (main reason I bought it) and is quiet enough in my family room adjacent to my home theater setup. Stopped working once for some unknown reason (maybe got a bit hot as I have it installed in a tight cabinet space- IFU clearly says it is designed to be free-standing) but after unplugging and letting it sit for 30 mins, it started up again and has been fine ever since. I check the external cabinet temp regularly and while it does get quite warm to the touch, it seems to be okay installed as is. A good idea is to keep it out first time it cools down your drinks (it will work quite hard doing this), then when the compressor cycles off (ie- it has reached its set temp), you can push it back in. Overall it seems to be a good deal for the price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1262, "id": 38955, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 226, "len_tokens": 289, "text": "We bought this kegerator after living in Germany.  It is hard to drink American beer after living in Germany.  And, German beer is absurdly expensive by the bottle in the USA compared to how CHEAP it is across the pond.  So this was our Christmas gift to ourselves.  We decided on this model because we did not want to spend more than was necessary.  Of course, we had to purchase an alpha coupler for the German barrels, which added to the expense.  Our first keg was a Paulaner hefeweisen and it is a little taller so it BARELY fit into the fridge.  We had to do some strategic bending of the coupler....  and we had to remove the extra tray for barrel support.  but we made it work.  Our second keg is a Franziskaner and it still would have required bending the neck and removing the barrel base.  So, this model is not ideal for those who want to use German kegs.  That said, it IS working, it WAS a great deal, and we ARE very happy with it.  The beer is cold.  It is not the quietest thing ever, however, it is not bad and it doesn't have to run that often.  It arrived with some minor quality issues that only effect the appearance.  But you get what you pay for and we recognize that.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1263, "id": 18739, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 267, "text": "Exact Honeywell replacement filter - nothing different than the one that came with the humidifier.\n\nI will caution you on this (and why I gave it 4 stars) - the filter is very susceptible to tearing when wet so you MUST handle it carefully when rinsing it out.\n\nHere is what I found works best.  I take the filter out by grabbing the blue outer edge (stronger than the white inner part) and flip it over and place it carefully in a bucket of clean water every 2 days.  I let it soak for about 10-30 minutes then place it back in the humidifier.\n\nAs it runs, the water leaves minerals near the top of the filter and it gets really stiff.  Flipping it helps keep the filter flexible and provide a good wick for water.\n\nThe soaking helps loosen the minerals and other funk that is left behind when the water evaporates.\n\nDoing this, I use one filter all winter long unless bacteria starts to grow (stinky smell) and then I soak it in a bucket with chlorine from the hot tub to kill the nasty bacteria.  Smells like a pool for a few minutes afterward, but at least it is clean then.\n\nI run my humidifier 24x7 and have good water so you may have to adjust your schedule of filter maintenance.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1264, "id": 87817, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "Anyone who thinks they don't have a problem with lint should look at these pictures.  My house is only 10 years old and this is what came out of our vent.  That doesn't even include what was cleaned out from our dryer filter and what was in just the dryer unit.  This product is very easy to use.  I definitely suggest taping each junction to make sure they don't separate in the vent.  I broke my cleaning into 4 cleanings. Fist cleaning was with just the brush and the first extension.  After ensuring that section is clean I added the second and so forth until the brush came out clean.  Given the length of the brush with all four sections, I found it easier to have another set of hands guide the brush into the vent while the other set was operating the drill.\nI noticed that when I turned the dryer back on there was some lint that was dislodged and blew out the outside vent opening.  Unfortunately in my case some lodged between the slats and is keeping the vent opening from fully closing.  I will be making a trip up my ladder once the ground dries a little so I can remove those pieces.  A little price to pay for a clean vent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1265, "id": 38923, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 225, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "I have had this fridge for 2 months now,  and I hate it.  First off,  very LOUD for a fridge.  But most importantly... fridge temp simply will not go below 43 degrees Fahrenheit. At first, I ended up maxing out the adjustment trying to get it colder,  the thing would run constantly and got louder the longer it ran and would not go below 54 degrees. I read one review that mentioned moving the thermocouple, so i took it apart and moved the thermocouple, now I got it down to 46 degrees. (which is ridiculous for a beer temp, or any fridge temp for that matter!!)  It runs constantly until it starts to 'growl' and the sides of the fridge get really HOT... I am unsure as to why,  but overall , warm beer sucks.  I am so mad at myself for ignoring the bad reviews and buying it anyway. I am a professional service technician for a living (auto tech.),  and after reading ALL the reviews and trying the product,  I am convinced the good reviews on here were written buy people from the company who make it (assemble it anyway) in Greenbay Wisconsin.  (all parts including the fridge say right on them, \"made in China\")  Because the bad reviews are right... this fridge is junk, it's the cheapest on on here for a reason........", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1266, "id": 489346, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 235, "len_tokens": 283, "text": "I am writing this review one from 1996.  Everything still works although I replaced many parts related to all the ignitors including the one for the infrared oven.  Also some little gadgets in the control knobs to prevent ignitors from firing in error.  Karl Schaedel Co in PA helps you diagnose the problems and sells the repair part.  If I had to pay for repairs I would have thrown the whole thing out years ago.  I like the high BTU top burners and particularly the infrared oven that acts like the barbecue grill.  The infrared broiler has lasted nearly 20 years now and makes it possible to grill meat and fish during  the winter without going outside, although sometimes the flames inside the over get too exciting.  The weakness from the beginning has been the while enamel shell that I have sanded and repainted repeatedly and has I now gotten to the point of having to look for a new 30 inch wide gas range.  The Wolf infrared broiler's configuration seems to have mainly \"dead spots\" so I will  have to go with Viking again for the infrared broiler.  Apparently the new broilers can cycle on and off because of more conservative thermostat control but if you leave the door a little open, it will keep it cool enough to keep the broiler on.  Of course \"stainless steel\" can also rust depending upon the quality.\"", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1267, "id": 9246, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 254, "len_tokens": 275, "text": "After reading many reveiews on this product I decided to go ahead and purchase it. I hate the public laundry so I thought this would be a little bit better even if I had some of the problems other people had mentioned. I had the same problems with the screws that every one else did. The screws don't match up to the holes to screw on the bottom panel. You have to kind of force them in where they don't belong and then screw them on. I also have to weigh down the water out house into the sink or it will flip out of the sink from the water pressure and end up all over the floor. I thought it would be sufficent enough to just place it in the sink, however I learned my lesson after the first load! You can fit quite a bit in it despite the small size, however I would not try to overload the washer as the water level will get too high and overflow. I am able to wash with the water level on high as long as the washer is not too stuffed up. Overall if you can iron out the little kinks with the washer, it is much better than public laundry and will save you a lot of money over the long run. As opposed to the rolling thing for the bottom I got those furniture sliders and they work GREAT to move it from one side of the kitchen to the next.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1268, "id": 405204, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 241, "len_tokens": 284, "text": "This is an awesome machine! I'm in a household with 5 other people. Having ice cubes readily available was always a problem. Only had 2 ice trays and they always seemed empty. I bought this Della Premium Ice Maker on a whim after looking at it for a few weeks. I couldn't be happier with something as I am with this! It exceeds my expectations ! While it won't put out enough ice for a party,etc...... it does put out enough so that every member of this household can have ice when they want it! I keep it on all the time and it kicks out a load about every 6 minutes! Does not take long to replenish itself! Doesn't use a lot of water and I fill it when the low water light comes on. I looked at all the models Amazon had and chose this one. Easy to clean. Fits on my counter easily. I use distilled water and keep it on the small ice cube setting. It really,really,works like the info says! I most definitely highly recommend buying this ice maker, DELLA Premium Ice Maker Portable Counter Top over any of the rest!! Durability does not seem to be an issue at this point. I will let you know if that changes! This review is for the one that makes 26lbs. of ice a day! I'll probably buy the 48lb one just because I want it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1269, "id": 217490, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 223, "len_tokens": 262, "text": "I installed it myself!  Went almost a year with no ice maker before I bought this replacement for my Samsung. It arrived swiftly. I had to empty out my inner drawer to get enough room to work and see what I was doing. I went to a YouTube video and presto, learned how to remove the drawer and the old unit.  Plugged in the new unit, I think it had two screws in total.  I am too lazy to go look , lol.  So now I can proudly offer anyone all the ice they want without having to refill ice trays!  I feel so spoiled. Been installed for two months now and have not had any problem, except the main freezer gasket needs to be replaced.  Turns out it was not closing and sealing very well and ice dams were forming on, not only the door opening, but also the ice tray.  This was the reason the old one failed probably, so I am now trying to replace the gasket.  I cleaned the freezer drawer handle and put a lot of Vaseline on the gasket for a temporary fix. So far no more ice build up around the top of the door or the ice tray system. Now who has the best priced freezer gasket for my Samsung, the unending maintenance search has begun!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1270, "id": 261072, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 202, "len_tokens": 262, "text": "First, let me say that the folks at Beverage Factory are very attentive. Having said that, here are the issues thus far:\nThe unit will NOT get to 32 degrees.  The coldest it will go for me is 34-35 degrees, which is livable. However, the problem is that if you have the occasional power blip (like I do) it will reset to factory which is a RIDICULOUS 41 DEGREES!!!\nI come home from work to find my expensive craft beer sitting at 41-42 degrees...NOT ACCEPTABLE!  I thought, well, maybe put it on a battery backup, but the crappy internal thermostat randomly resets itself periodically anyway, so that doesn't work.  I spoke to customer service a couple times and they are aware of the issue, but have no fix for it. According to them, there is no way to change the default setting lower than 41 degrees and no way to bypass the thermostat to use an external (i.e. Johnson controls, etc.). I WILL find a way to bypass it.  It will void the warranty, but I cannot live with 41 degree beer.\nWho in their right mind designs a beer dispensing product that defaults to 41 degrees anyway?  Where are we...Germany?", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1271, "id": 15813, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 182, "len_tokens": 210, "text": "It fits properly. Normally, Genuine Aprilaire products are good. You must be careful when you use cheaper products from the third party. I bought a box of 10 from the third party and I paid only half price of the genuine ones , they were shipped and all of them were slightly dented on top. After I replaced the genuine one with the third-party one, the water was dripping so I used a different one but I had the same problem and I did not understand the reason why it was dripping. So that year I could not use my humidifier. This year I bought these genuine ones and the dripping was gone.  I could not be able to return these 10 filters since I bought it a few years before I actually tried them. One more thing, when I rinsed the genuine water panel with water, the water did not seem to change color; on the other hand, the water from the third-party water panel was yellow, it was scary. I was glad to throw them all; otherwise I may get sick.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1272, "id": 166765, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 212, "len_tokens": 255, "text": "We purchased this to put on our 30'sailboat.  It makes enough ice at night when we are plugged into 30 amp shore power to fill the cooler so we have cold drinks all day long.  I leave it on the salon floor at the bulkhead and the cord is long enough to plug into the 110 volt outlet in the head(bathroom) or at the portside outlet.  By plugging it in to the outlet in the head, we don't have to step over the cord and the door to the head clears the cord, so that the head can be used while the machine is plugged in.  Also,  the unit is short enough that the salon table can be converted into a bed without having to move the icemaker.  When we leave the boat for a few days, I  drain the unit into the bilge, eliminating the need to lift the unit to drain it.  This ice maker makes cruising more enjoyable for us -- who like a warm drink on a hot day!  I haven't tried to run it off the inverter,  but I believe that it could be run off the inverter, as we have enough house battery to keep our onboard refrigerator running for 48 hours using battery power.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1273, "id": 180130, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 193, "len_tokens": 232, "text": "I purchased this 3+ weeks ago. As the first reviewer stated, the directions are somewhat lacking. This is even more evident if you plan to use corny kegs. The Beverage factory web page had a somewhat helpful picture concerning corny kegs and hoses. The hose clamps are plastic. I am not impressed with them. I bought metal clamps at a local hardware store. The first few days the temperature was 33 F. Ice formed on the back wall and plugged the drainage hole at the back and I cleared it by chipping away and then with some warm water. Temperature has been 37-38 F the past couple of weeks.\n\nThis kegerator is designed for one tap, not two. If you have two taps you must put the CO2 tank inside because the hole in the back wall is not big enough for two gas hoses. It does come with a plug for the hole so that is not a problem. Luckily, this unit will fit two corny kegs and my 15 lb CO2 tank, but just barely. Overall I am happy with it but I have had it a little under a month.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1274, "id": 34635, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 201, "len_tokens": 229, "text": "The quality was good but If you are buying this for an ice maker line there are a couple considerations.\n\nThe compression fittings are permanently attached to the line so you cannot cut the line to length.\n\nAlso both ends are female compression fittings but many refrigerator connections are also female so if you have that set up you will need a male male compression fitting to connect the line.\n\nAlso I had to try two different 1/4 inch fittings to connect the line to my water supply which had been installed earlier by a water filter company.  The fitting that was left for the ice maker connection was a 1/4 inch push in but as mentioned above this liine has the fittings permanently attached.  I found that connecting the brass fittings to plastic 1/4 inch fittings took some experimentation to find a corresponding 1/4 inch male fitting in vinyl that would work with the existing 1/4 inch PEX and the brass fittings on the line.\n\nIn short if you are experienced this line works well.  If you a less experienced DIY type just make sure you have the correct fittings at both ends of your run before buying this line.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1275, "id": 139338, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 212, "len_tokens": 265, "text": "Amazon's check \"wasn't sure\" on fitness of this part for my Kenmore Elite model 630.16309405, but I decided to risk it given I knew the Kenmore was made by Bosch, part number 607335 matched Kenmore's, really low price, and the fact that the seller's picture looked identical.  The picture was right, it is the same part. Definitely appears to be brand new, despite the low price.\n\nMy 10-year old one failed to completely close, so water kept constantly seeping in.  After pulling out the old one and taking off the brass elbow, I could see that our hard water deposits during 10 years of use likely caused it to fail.  Cleaning might have fixed it, but at this price for a new one, why bother.\n\nRemoval and install was not bad at all, but easiest if you take out the dishwasher and turn it on it's back (getting tube off the outlet probably would have been difficult had I left the DW under the cabinet).\n\nAlso, note you likely need to get a brass elbow adapter to match your water supply.  I wouldn't recommend taking it off the old one, but that might work.\n\nSeller did great job getting the part to me in 2 days with reasonable expedited shipping cost.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1276, "id": 335442, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 204, "len_tokens": 252, "text": "Our old Samsung finally took a dive, just not worth the cost of repair.  We decided on this LG after reading so many great reviews on other sites!  We needed a new fridge ASAP as our freezer and ice maker were down the tubes.  This fridge has so many features like a second ice maker in the freezer compartment along with the one in the door.  Lots of LED lighting, the freezer, ice maker and even the freezer, and bright!  Temp. adjustable storage areas with humidity control for fresh fruits and veggies. Plenty of in door storage, even in front of the in door ice maker----no shelving lost because of the ice maker.  The water filter is easily accessible to change.  Even temp. throughout just makes it even better.  Love the French doors, everything is so visible when the doors are open---this is our first French door fridge.  Repair service is great!  A simple call to the dealer and it's taken care of if needed.  This thing even has a self-diagnostic feature that will connect to a tech. if ever needed.  So far no problems at all, and we are just enjoying all of the great features this unit has! Would we recommend?---absolutely!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1277, "id": 214237, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 169, "len_tokens": 202, "text": "I bought this dryer about 1.5 month ago. the dryer does the job drying, but 75% of the time you need to do 2 cycles of drying per load. This is not that big of a deal because it is lower power as described.\n\nThe dryer came dented (not sure if this was due to shipping), but everytime I dry my clothes they end up smelling like they were burned/smell like tabacco (I don't smoke/do drugs of any kind).  I originally thought it might have something to do with clothes, but I tried everyting and it always leaves an umplesant smell. I know this has to do with the dryer because if I wash the clothes and air dry it, then it does not smell bad.  Right now the only thing I can do is to add a few fabric softening clothes into the dryer everytime which reduces the smell. The dryer will do its job if you don't mind the smell, bur I do not recommend this.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1278, "id": 216629, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 227, "len_tokens": 285, "text": "This fan arrived very quickly.  We didn't find the instructions to be too difficult.  Actually, because of the reviews, I contacted Akdy for installation instructions before ordering.  I thought they were fairly detailed, so went ahead and ordered the fan.  The instructions that came with the fan were the same as what Akdy provided.\nMy husband and I installed this ourselves.  We cut down the chimney covers to fit our 8' ceilings with no problems.  The hardest part of install were the tiny screws that connect the support frame to the mounting bracket on the ceiling.  They have to be connected with nuts on the inside, and they're so tiny!  We got them all up, and somehow tightened though.\nWe bought this fan because of it's powerful 870 CFM motor as we wanted to mount it a bit higher than recommended.  We are so tired of hitting our head on a fan, also the remote is really nice!  Works wonderfully.  The light is very bright, the bulbs do come out, so we could replace them later on with LED (they are halogen).\nThe fan is very powerful.  It seems to work well.  On high it is a bit loud, but quieter than our old 1960s fan! When using a fan, it's not typically on high for too long, I'm not terribly concerned with the decibel level.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1279, "id": 433314, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 203, "len_tokens": 235, "text": "I'm a guy who do not put feedback if everything is OK or almost OK. But I do comment only in the occasions, where it is really necessary.\n\nI got this item yesterday and installed on the same day evening. Before installing I had read the reviews positives and negatives. So I had gone thru the installation manual and followed each and every step (removed paper cover, filled water before placing on the slot, tried remove 5 gallons of water, etc).\nFrom the moment it installed, it is giving a noise like a car engine when the water is dispensed. Water flow is very slow and I had to wait almost 40 minutes to dispense 5 gallons of water, still the sound is there. Only the difference was the tone of the sound changed.. It's a waste time, testing your patience and noisy. I could have used the dispensed 5 gallon water for watering the plants if it is a summer. But in winter, where i can use it? As the The main attraction towards this product was its price and quantity. I have installed different filters in the past years and never had any issues.\n\nI'm planning to return this product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1280, "id": 7113, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 172, "len_tokens": 203, "text": "I'm not using this for home brewing, but to use a chest freezer as my regular household refrigerator. It's much more energy efficient, partly because the cold air stays in place when you open it, and partly because it's better insulated. Until manufacturers start making home refrigerators in the chest configuration, the best you can do is trick a freezer into operating at higher temperatures. This product does the job. I stuck the outdoor sensor of my digital thermometer inside to check the temperature, and the dial was right on, with maybe three degrees of fluctuation each way.\n\nIf you use a chest freezer as your main refrigerator, be sure to get one with lots of baskets! Another issue is condensation. Upright fridges typically catch the water and drop it into an evaporation pan. Freezers don't have this, but they do have a drain hole. I keep the drain hole open all the time and stick a rag where the water comes out, and then use the rag to clean the floor.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1281, "id": 88068, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "So, this is what life comes down to when you are 50 years old:  reviewing dryer vent cleaners while sitting at your kitchen table waiting for American Idol.  This is not what I envisioned when I was 12, I can tell you that much.  You kids who think it won't happen to you?\n\nIt will.  Sorry to burst your bubble.\n\nThat said, the product works great.  Our dryer pretty much stopped working and we were thinking we needed a new one, which was seriously going to eat into my plastic surgery budget.  One last shot before a trip to the appliance store was this Gardus LintEater.  My husband, who is not the handy one of the family, had to do the work as I have a torn labrum.  (Which sounds dirtier than it is - that's part of your shoulder.)  He, the clumsiest man in the world, had absolutely no problem using this.  I warned him to read the directions first, and he actually listened and followed.  He hooked it up to the drill, and away he went.  He got a bunch of musty, wet lint that had probably been up inside the wall since 1977  - probably consisting of bell bottom material and macram.\n\nNow our dryer actually dries clothes again, and I can continue to save for my facelift. Thank you Gardus.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1282, "id": 377100, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 192, "len_tokens": 233, "text": "Can't trust the measurements.  I had on unit and bought two more to use in different areas our home.  But for kicks I lined up all three next to each other in one medium to large-sized room for several days to find out if they would show the same temp and humidity levels - they didn't and don't.  I observed 3 different humidity level readings which varied as much as 6%, and the temperature readings varied by as much as 4 degrees.  Further, the humidity readings were usually within 1%-2% of each other in the low humidity ranges, such as 30%-38%, but at higher humidity levels the readings were all over the map with much greater variances between the three units.  Same thing happened for temperature readings, they seemed closer at lower temperatures than at room temperatures (65-74 degrees).  Seems these things are not calibrated or calibrated very poorly, so poorly, I can't trust the readings form any of them and have no way to know which of the three units is closest to being accurate.  I'm now looking for another manufacturer and model that at least produces more reliable readings.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1283, "id": 127230, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 209, "len_tokens": 248, "text": "Let me preface my review by saying I am absolutely a \"do it yourself\" handy man. I say that only to let the readers of this review understand that I am a capable person. Now, the directions that arrived with this item were some of the worst directions I have ever seen. The installation of the product was very ambiguous at best. If you don't have a relatively good head for installations, good luck on this. Most of the guys I know out there could probably manage it. If you aren't relatively savvy on the \"do's and don'ts\" of hardware, and installations, contact someone to put this in for you.\nThe product itself arrived in a damaged box, but thankfully the product survived. It looks nice and operates very well as far as the fan goes. The LED lights are very dim and would not be useful for additional light while cooking. These only serve us as ambient lighting at night. The operating instructions are equally horrible. That is to say that they practically don't exists. I still haven't figured out how to take this off of military (24 hr) time.\nLooks nice, operates nice (except light), and is a nice addition to our stainless kitchen. Beware of directions.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1284, "id": 238331, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 191, "len_tokens": 229, "text": "Its glue... not much to get excited over. I used it as part of a repair I was making to my LG dryer. I had the whole thing apart to replace the heating element module so I figured I'd perform some other maintenance as well.  I used this glue to adhere the new felt dryer drum gaskets around both sides of the drum. Seems to have worked with no issue, but I strongly suggest you watch a few youtube videos on that procedure before you use this product. Because I did, I know without a doubt that I saved myself a lot of heartache in mishandling this adhesive and the procedure of replacing the gaskets in general.  Even if you don't watch instructional videos, at lease wear gloves. This stuff will NOT wash off with soap and water once it begins to set.\n\nI will say this - the price is too high. A small tube of adhesive like this, even being a specialty product, should be approx. 5-8 dollars... not 14. And the major appliance parts websites charge between 25 and 40 for a tube. Rapists... all of them!  :)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1285, "id": 274013, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 233, "len_tokens": 258, "text": "First would like to say the seller is great. Do not have anything bad to say about them. Would buy from them again. This review is on the washer. This is the biggest piece of junk. I have to constantly re-ballance the tub weekly and then it still will not work. I have called LG and they have me put my phone up the the washing machine. They will then read the error code and tell me I need to balance the machine. They will send me the instructions via email and I follow everything they say. The machine will still not do a load of laundry in under 2 hours because it has to refill over and over again to re-ballance the load. I have had this unit for almost 2 years and have had nothing but trouble with it and worst thing is having to hear my wife complain about it every time it is used. I am glad I do most of the laundry in the house.\n\nIf you research different blogs you will see that this is a very common problem with these types of washing machines. Do not go to LG home page, it appears all the reviews are great. Very bias.\n\nOur clothes are not a clean as with the old unit we had. Will be looking to replace this unit soon. No complaints with the dryer.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1286, "id": 482436, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 188, "len_tokens": 225, "text": "Bought this range about 3 years ago after doing a lot of review reading.  I did read that the stove was hard to clean and just attributed it to bad cleaners.  Wrong!  I have to wipe up specks and spills immediately or they stain the steel and nothing will take it off except copious rubbing with magic eraser.  It seems that the final glaze or polishing was left off the top of my range (and others who have complained ) and I only found this out by rubbing the surfaces of store models and the comparing it to the surface texture of my range.  The surface of my range is definitely more grainy than smooth, and probably accounts for the difficulty in cleaning.  I like to cook and hate to have to baby the top of my stove.  I also have an older model jenn-aire that is so easy to clean compared to this go model.  GE, get your quality control in order and don't send out models that are not completely finished!  Other than that, the range is okay for cooking and baking, wouldn't buy this again though.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1287, "id": 315156, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 204, "len_tokens": 239, "text": "This is 'Compatible' to the factory filter. My LG fridge is about 8 years old and I am on a private well. My water is very good but contains a significant amount of rust and is hard. It also is quite alkaline as well. My old filter began to slow the flow of water so I went to the local orange box store to purchase a replacement. The factory filter was $49.95. Nope - not this boy is gonna pay 50 bucks for a water filter. I check Amazon and purchased this knockoff. I is a perfect replacement and after running a few gallons of water through it, I can't tell the difference. The water I did run through was nasty however. It was dark with a lot of particulate in it. I assume this was displaced from my water line on the filter change.\n\nI dumped the ice in the ice maker and started over. All is well and I have about $26 extra in my wallet and a new filter. Thanks\n\n7-2017 update - I replaced this filter with an identical filter.  I don't think it needed replacement but I did it anyway since I changed the water valve on the fridge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1288, "id": 432908, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 183, "len_tokens": 212, "text": "This Della washing machine washes clothes with vigorous enthusiasm. The wash timer controls the length of the wash function as well as the rinse function. Each step of the wash process is performed manually such as fill, wash, drain, fill, rinse, drain, finish. Detergent is added during the wash process while softener can be added during the rinse process. There is no spin function so the finished laundry can be wrung out and hung up to dry. But a better finish for the laundry would be to obtain a spinner to extract the water from the laundry prior to hanging to dry. The machine is reasonably quiet and washes a good amount of clothes or towels. Bed sheets can also be done, but blankets are too bulky. There is a control for selecting normal or gentle washing. This control also activates the drain function. There is a drain pump so the machine empties quickly. The machine is made of plastic which makes it light weight and easy to move around. The Della washing machine delivers very credible washing performance for a reasonable price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1289, "id": 14052, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 181, "len_tokens": 227, "text": "I own the Avanti W789SA washer and am quite happy with the machine.  We live in a small apartment with a baby, so a machine was needed.  At first I had reservations on the product as there were no reviews and the brand was unknown.  As this was the only compact washer I could find that would fit in our small bathroom next to the sink, I made the purchase.\n\nThe washer has been in use for over a year with no problems.  We average 1-2 loads a week because of the small load capacity.  Clothes come out clean and there are no water leaks to the floor.  Be sure to tighten up the hoses to the rear nozzles and use teflon tape.  The workmanship is not a wonder in engineering but the machine performs time after time and is becoming a workhorse.  Face it, a year's worth of no week end trips to the crowded laundramat for 3 hours is worth the 239.99 we paid for the machine.  If my machine breaks down, I would defintely by the same model.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1290, "id": 88377, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "Anyone who thinks they don't have a problem with lint should look at these pictures.  My house is only 10 years old and this is what came out of our vent.  That doesn't even include what was cleaned out from our dryer filter and what was in just the dryer unit.  This product is very easy to use.  I definitely suggest taping each junction to make sure they don't separate in the vent.  I broke my cleaning into 4 cleanings. Fist cleaning was with just the brush and the first extension.  After ensuring that section is clean I added the second and so forth until the brush came out clean.  Given the length of the brush with all four sections, I found it easier to have another set of hands guide the brush into the vent while the other set was operating the drill.\nI noticed that when I turned the dryer back on there was some lint that was dislodged and blew out the outside vent opening.  Unfortunately in my case some lodged between the slats and is keeping the vent opening from fully closing.  I will be making a trip up my ladder once the ground dries a little so I can remove those pieces.  A little price to pay for a clean vent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1291, "id": 101957, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 157, "len_tokens": 208, "text": "I've had this since November 15, 2011 - so about two months.  It was working great and I LOVED this machine.  Then, the lid got \"stuck\".  I worked to release it or reset it (whatever).  The unit worked one more time and then .... nothing.  You fill the tub, put in the plastic disc to hold the clothes in the tub, close the lid, plug it in, turn on the timer and .... nothing.  Done, broken, kaput.  It is now in pieces on my bathroom floor and I am going to spend \"some time\" trying to fix it.  I'd contact the Laundry Alternative but based on EVERY customer review, their customer service is non-existent.\n\nToo bad.  When this machine works it is fantastic!  Any entrepreneurs out there that want to create a better mousetrap (called \"the laundry spinner\")?  Fix these problems and it looks like you would have a passionate, devoted clientele that you could grow!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1292, "id": 30641, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 242, "len_tokens": 279, "text": "You would be an absolute idiot to buy from this company! I bought an icemaker around $600 for home use from this company, Edgester! It had taken three weeks are so for delivery. I bought their three-year guarantee, as I was told over the phone it was a great guaranteed and covered everything. About five months later it caught fire thank God we were home and saw the smoke. I called Edgestar every day for over a month because I was not getting a call back. When I finally filed a complaint with the Better Business Bureau I received a call back from a person at Edgestar. He acted as if he was taking all the information, he said it would be taken care of and somebody would be calling me shortly. One more month went by so I started calling again, this person informed me that I needed to call the company who they contract the  guarantee with. So I did, needless to say it's been over eight months and nothing has been completed. Not only did I pay $600 for an icemaker but I also paid a three-year guarantee policy. I've done a lot of research on this company I would say at least six out of 10 have problems. If you are the type person that likes chaos and problems in your life, then go ahead and buy from this worthless company. Money down the drain. Never never again!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1293, "id": 147701, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 189, "len_tokens": 232, "text": "Our repairman wanted to charge us nearly $300 to replace this handle and it was going to take a week to get in. The part alone was well over $150!!  No thanks!  I saw how the repairman removed and replaced the panel and it didn't look that hard.  Found a youtube video and it showed to be pretty simple, so we decided to try it.  I found the part here for less than $40 and got an extra spring (Whirlpool 8268540 Door Handle Spring) that we installed. Yes, the spring is a little pricey at $4 itself but trust me, it is worth it if you break or lose your spring but if you can keep the old spring, add the new spring to the other side (it's made to have one but the manufacturer cheaps out by not having it).  It helps the handle work SO much better and I think will keep the new one from breaking like the old one did.  Switched this out in less than 20 minutes. Works great!  And don't worry about it being a different color, you'll never even see it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1294, "id": 212577, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 195, "len_tokens": 243, "text": "UPDATE November of 2017:  Avoid this product at all costs.  It lasted 10 months, and then failed.  You'll see this as a reoccurring theme across many of the reviews here.\n\nMy advice: Spend the extra $20 or so, and get this part from an online appliance parts provider who guarantees that it is OEM, and stands behind the authenticity and quality of the part.  I feel like shopping on Amazon these days is like eBay......you never know what you're going to get, or from whom.\n\nI received this pump, and am really wondering if I got a true OEM part or not.  Mainly because the impeller wheel is very warped, so I'm worried that this pump may not last long.  I had no choice but to install it because I have 3 kids and the laundry is really starting to pile up.  The pump does work, but it's loud, and in looking at the other reviews, it looks like I'm not the only one to have received a pump that has a bent/warped impeller wheel.\n\nAmazon has a real problem on their hands because I simply cannot trust what I buy from their site anymore.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1295, "id": 430544, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 172, "len_tokens": 221, "text": "What a great ice machine!! The only con would be the ice tray has to be pulled out of the machine to get to the ice. A tilt out tray would have been the bee's knees! Nevertheless, it's fantastic. (2 months after purchase)\n\n(1 year later) this machine does not work at all. I've pleaded with this seller to do something about it. It is not cheap! I have requested Amazon to help. NOTHING. They, seller and Amazon, refuse to help. I looked up Della on Better Business Bureau website and guess who's phone number was listed? One Big Outlet. Yeah... So I called them. They said \"Call Della\" I said, \"Their number is YOUR NUMBER\" and he said, \"yeah, sorry.\"\n\nBUYER BEWARE!\n\nI will be reporting this company to the BBB over this purchase. Shame on Amazon for not wanting to do right by a long time customer! I cannot get a local small appliance business to look at this machine. They have all said (4 businesses) \"Ma'am, don't buy online\".", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1296, "id": 297012, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 235, "len_tokens": 261, "text": "This little machine is my new companion. I bought this knowing that it's very hands on but that is exactly that I wanted. I do fabric dyeing and I need to soak clothes, scour them for extended period of time and rinse multiple times to full get the dye out.  This machine is so perfect for that because I can control every step of the process. I have no problems with leaks like some of the other reviews. The instructions were very clear and have photos to go with each step. I wish I would have bought one years ago!  If you set the spin to the full 5 minutes it dries the clothes almost completely and it only takes an hour or two to dry them which is awesome!  I'm a single parent with a toddler and this comes in so handy because I can do a small load of laundry every day or two instead of dedicate a whole day at the laundromat. The only thing I don't like is standing and holding the hose to my faucet but I am going to see if I can get a screw on connector from my local hardware store.  Also the water doesn't fully drain out of the drain hose because of the distance to my sink but I do laundry often enough that this is not an issue because it is constantly flushed out.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1297, "id": 352378, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 193, "len_tokens": 245, "text": "It came a day late(held up in my state 1 day right before it came to me)  with damaged shipping crate (which the delivery person thoughtfully pointed out to me)  Inside the crate the machine was intact and worked fine. Have been using for about 5 months.  What works for me is to put right inside my bathtub on a rubber matt to prevent machine from sliding.  I  let the drain hose rest on the bottom of the tub and have a generic 99 cent strainer over the bath tub/shower  drain to prevent any lint/pet fur/human hairs from clogging up the plumbing.  I fill with a pail and use minimal soap ( like 1-2 teaspoons of powder).  The centrifuge is fantastic, you can easily dry things on rack or hangers and no drips on the floor.  It weighs about 34 pounds easy for me to carry.  The lint catcher inside the machine is easy to find/pop out/ and rinse off.  No complaints, I would buy again.  I got it to replace a large standard top load washing machine that wore out beyond fixing.  Use it weekly for ordinary laundry for one person.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1298, "id": 32189, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 145, "len_tokens": 259, "text": "These were definitely nicer than I expected.  They are darker and shinier than my last ones.  Completely renewed the look of my stove, not to mention there will be no more smoke coming from the drip pans.  I had washed and scrubbed by hand and in dishwasher and just couldn't get the old ones clean anymore.  I'm so happy with these.  They look great, are a very dark black color, and fit perfectly.  They arrived promptly, are better than expected and a good price. They were very well packaged with separators between pans and enclosed in plastic. Would definitely purchase again!!  I added a couple of photos so you can compare the old to new and see how nice they look on in the second pic.&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Range-Kleen-P119204X-Porcelain-GE-Drip-Pans-Set-Of-4-Containing-2-Units-P119-P120-Black/dp/B000FNKV2Y/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Range Kleen P119204X Porcelain GE Drip Pans Set Of 4 Containing 2 Units P119, P120, Black</a>", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1299, "id": 259544, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 184, "len_tokens": 228, "text": "Can't beat the price for these filters. I used them for the replacement filters on my Samsung fridge (the D29 or whatever number as they're advertised) and the fit was perfect. Some people thought they were smaller than the original Samsungs, but I compared the 2 and saw no difference. As far as water clarity/taste/all that good stuff, I can't tell a difference between these and the name brand ones.\n\nWord of advice: it's going to sound horrible the first couple of times you get water from your fridge until you get all the bubbles out. So don't be afraid of that. Also, it's going to fill with water/pressurize when you install it, so don't be afraid of that either, but make sure it is actually completely installed because these filters (by design, the Samsungs did it too) are kind of hard to rotate into place. But that's a good thing so they don't fall out or something.\n\nFinal word of advice: Keep paper towels handy for removing the old filter, because it'll be full of water and will spill as you're removing it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1300, "id": 465882, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 234, "len_tokens": 288, "text": "I researched a new dual fuel range for several weeks before finally deciding on this model. It was delivered on 3/2/11. There were several concerns from the get-go:\n1)After shutting oven off, the fan stayed on for over three hours because the oven took forever to cool down.\n2)The panel directly above the oven door is plastic and we could see some separation taking place because the plastic got so hot when oven was on.\n3)The warming drawer didn't close completely so heat poured out of this area when oven was hot.\n4)So much heat radiated from oven that it started melting the finish on adjacent cabinets.\n5)After the fifth use of the oven, it quit heating up, never again going above 160 degrees. After six weeks and four different repairmen visits trying to figure out was was wrong with the unit, it was finally decided that the range was not repairable and I could return it to the store. Good news for me since it meant I could get this over-sized hot plate out of my kitchen!\n\nFYI: Frigidaire is owned by Electrolux. Per the repairmen that came out, they work on more Elec/Frig ranges than any other brand. Wished I had talked to them before buying this product.\n\nThe only reason I give it two stars is because I really liked the appearance, stovetop, grates and controls.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1301, "id": 41592, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 243, "len_tokens": 296, "text": "I bought this item online (not from Amazon), and when I received it I could see that the packaging was a bit roughed up.  It seemed that it might have been dropped on the front upper left corner, as it was subtly dented there and it difficult to open the door.  Well, I decided to give it a whirl anyway, and after a few minutes, warm water started pouring out of the front panel!  Oh noo!\n\nWell, that was the bad news, but here's the good news: The customer service rep at EdgeStar I spoke to was amazing! The rep was very quick, easy to talk to, and immediately determined that the water pump must have been damaged during shipment (no hold time either).  In minutes I had a code to give to the company I purchased the unit from, so I called them up, gave them the code (no hold time either), and they instructed me to pack the unit back up and put it on the porch for UPS.  The next day, UPS came to pick it up.  Amazing!\n\nSo, I'm pretty impressed with their service!  I've lived overseas and was amazed that in many countries, this would be considered the absolute minimum in customer service.  But as an American company, EdgeStar has completely exceeded my expectations, making me dream of a better tomorrow where things actually work, and if they don't someone takes responsibility and fixes it! Kudos EdgeStar!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1302, "id": 58180, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 181, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "Had my husband pick this up for me from Target - on sale this week for 109.00. Took it out today and let it sit for an hour as per instructions and cleaned it. When the time came to make ice I followed the directions and filled it with water but half way between the min and max fill line as they recommend disposing of the first several ice cycles. That was 2 1/2 hours ago. It makes about 7 cubes per 20 minutes and the small size is almost an inch long. Larger than I expected but hollow so was ok. I had expected it to work faster. The largest problem is it is leaking from the back left foot. The first leak on the counter I wiped up and thought perhaps I had spilled - even though it was in the back. But the counter is wet all over again from the back left foot. After reading other reviews we are returning it tomorrow and looking for a better one even if we have to spend a bit more.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1303, "id": 87697, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "Anyone who thinks they don't have a problem with lint should look at these pictures.  My house is only 10 years old and this is what came out of our vent.  That doesn't even include what was cleaned out from our dryer filter and what was in just the dryer unit.  This product is very easy to use.  I definitely suggest taping each junction to make sure they don't separate in the vent.  I broke my cleaning into 4 cleanings. Fist cleaning was with just the brush and the first extension.  After ensuring that section is clean I added the second and so forth until the brush came out clean.  Given the length of the brush with all four sections, I found it easier to have another set of hands guide the brush into the vent while the other set was operating the drill.\nI noticed that when I turned the dryer back on there was some lint that was dislodged and blew out the outside vent opening.  Unfortunately in my case some lodged between the slats and is keeping the vent opening from fully closing.  I will be making a trip up my ladder once the ground dries a little so I can remove those pieces.  A little price to pay for a clean vent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1304, "id": 481187, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 237, "len_tokens": 276, "text": "If performance is what you want, look elsewhere than this dishwasher. With today's energy efficient appliances everything is less - which is NOT more.  I should have learned my lesson with the front loading washer having to leave the door open and constantly cleaning the mildew out of it, this dishwasher isn't much better. The heating element is by design much weaker and does not get as hot as my 10 year old unit. So, without using a drying agent (which I never had to do before), the dishes do not get dry.  I was informed by the repairman (Whirlpool didn't bother to let me know this or include a users manual with the unit) that use of a drying agent is required for normal operation. Who knew? . I only have to run the unit every few days and even using a drying agent, since the inside is plastic it is constantly wet. The flat dishes are OK, but cups and flatware are all wet after the cycle.  I have noticed mildew and the same sour smell when we open it. No idea what to do, I can't leave the dishwasher door open like we do in the laundry room. Pros - we rinse dishes off before they go into the washer so I can't really comment on the cleaning ability but it is really quiet. But that could be because it isn't using enough water....", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1305, "id": 317158, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 238, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "I love the all refrigerator, no freezer, style as mini-frig freezers are messy and don't work that well.  The interior is high quality with solid, well designed door storage.  The shelves are glass and fully adjustable.  The bottom drawer is sturdy.  I have the steel finish door which looks great.  It fit exactly into the limited space, so the dimensions given are accurate.  The fridge itself is a 5 star.\n\nI took one star away because the manual is a generic manual meant to cover many of the Danby fridges.  The  instructions for switching the side the door opens on is vague and doesn't AT ALL reflect what it takes to switch the door on this model.  It is complicated and involves removing the top of the fridge to access and remove the door, and flipping it on the side to switch out the bottom hardware as well.  All together there were 10 screws to remove and replace as well as the screw that adjusts one side of the fridge only (manual says there are 2 adjusting feet).  I don't mind that it is complicated, it's the totally missing instructions on how to do it.  Had to figure it out myself and then 3 of the screws would not screw back in place, so I had to find 3 slightly larger screws, and then it worked; if there were instructions I might not have run into this.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1306, "id": 99355, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 194, "len_tokens": 242, "text": "I find it very helpful to have a tool like this around.  Not only for measuring ambient temperature and humidity, but also for things like seeing how well the A/C is doing either in my house or my cars.  This can tell me if my refrigerant needs recharged.\n\nThe tool is well made and seems fairly durable.  It's not bulletproof, and a drop off a ladder or something would worry me, but I don't think I'll be using it in that fashion too much.  It does come with a case, but it's a pretty cheap looking pleather/vinyl type of thing, and the instructions don't fit inside along with the tool.\n\nIt's always sensing and adjusting in real-time, so it doesn't really \"lock\" onto any readings.  You basically have to make a judgement call when you think it's stable.  The temperature takes much longer to bring up to stable than the humidity.  Going between wide variations in temp will require a few minutes for it to really adjust and stabilize.  The humidity is better and usually stablizes in under a minute.\n\nI do wish it had a backlight, faster response time and a nicer case.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1307, "id": 244212, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 179, "len_tokens": 230, "text": "I have a cat with severe dandruff and dry skin. She is black, so it is very noticeable. This is a lifelong problem. I started giving her Vetri-Science Nu-Cat, 60 Bite-Sized Chews (multi-vitamins), and using this shampoo. With both of these products, her dandruff is almost completely gone. It is not just the vitamins that are helping, but this shampoo as well. I have tried not giving her the vitamins, or not using the shampoo, and each time the dandruff got worse. With BOTH of these products, her dry skin is almost completely gone. I absolutely love this shampoo!!! If you have any pets with severe dry skin, PLEASE, PLEASE buy this product. The price is wonderful for how much shampoo you get. It is a concentrate, so you can make a lot of shampoo with it. My cat also loves it. She is so much happier. It is really worth the money. You will be very glad you bought it!! I will continue to use this shampoo for the rest of her life. It is VERY, VERY HELPFUL!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1308, "id": 261386, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 187, "len_tokens": 228, "text": "Last week the water filter replacement light went on, on my GE refrigerator.  I went from store to store looking for replacement filters.  I was unable to find anything.  I decided it was time to scour the internet.  I found this filter for $25.  That's great considering comparable ones go for up to 50.  I wen ahead and made the order.  The item showed up on my doorstep in the typical brown Amazon box within forty eight hours, which is fantastic.  I opened it up and immediately found it was the same quality as the one GE makes.  I went ahead and unwrapped it, and swapped it for the one inside the refrigerator.  Now the replace filter light is off, and once again i have super pure water.  The only difference between this filter and the retail filter is what you pay for in the name brand.  I agree--sometimes you get what you pay for, but this is an exception.  I would highly recommend this to anyone needing to replace a refrigerator water filter, but cannot bring themselves to spend $50 when then can only spend $25.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1309, "id": 280839, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 212, "len_tokens": 258, "text": "I don't have a clothes dryer. So why, did I buy this product? I wanted to get the excess crap/crud out of my HVAC ducts. I'm a heavy user of air conditioning. The cleaner the ducts, the better the air quality and efficiency. I live in an apartment and duct cleaning is not covered. Also I'm too cheap to have strangers come into my fine abode, upset my rambunctious cat and make the whole affair a Broadway production. I can imagine a bill with three digits and no decimal points after the first number. The technicians schlepping behemoth machines and fancy chemicals and the old upsell. So Deflecto Duct cleaning kit to the rescue. The brush is nice and long when all the rods are attached. My ducts are wall mounted right below the ceiling and I'm vertically challenged. No problem using this kit. I don't have a drill so I attach all the extensions shove the brush inside the duct and use a clockwise direction as instructed. A lot of dust and crud came out. I know that to have pristine spotless ducts, I'd have to call in the professionals but, I'm very satisfied and can feel the slight performance improvement in the areas I cleaned the ducts with this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1310, "id": 486214, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 232, "len_tokens": 279, "text": "My condo developers installed MAH2400A units after construction sometime in 2009 (the Minto Quantum II development in Toronto). An investor bought the unit I would later purchase and it sat empty until I purchased it in March of 2010. I didn't move in and start using the unit for some time after that. So by the time I had begun to use this washer it was 2011, well past the stingy one year warranty. After about 10 uses it stopped working. It would let water flow in but when it got to the spin cycle it would just report Error Code 3E. I tried all possible combinations of cycles but it would not spin or drain. I called the local 'Maytag metro repair' (not directly affiliated with Maytag) who came and looked at the machine and said it would need either a new circuitboard or new motor. Either would be $600 and \"maybe\" would fix the problem. I called Whirlpool who apparently now owns Maytag and was told it was out of warranty. I explained the details of my situation several times and was told they wouldn't do anything. I wrote letters to both the US and Canadian offices which were ignored. I write this review today as I am finally able to afford a new washing machine (LG) and am getting rid of this expensive and otherwise brand new paperweight.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1311, "id": 8641, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 199, "len_tokens": 249, "text": "The product \"LOOKS\" good. The insulation gives the impression of a heavy gauge wire ,may be 8 or 10. The seller has neither given the gauge nor the material (Cu or Al) of the wire. The difference between 8 and 10 gauge wires is very small 0.676mm  (3.264- 2.588). Only experienced electricians can make out the difference.\nElse the product is good. The strain relief clamp was pretty easy to instal. A little dexterity was involved. One must first drive in a mm or two, both the self tapping screws provided into the clamps, then unscrew them out  so that when you do actual fitting the threads are clean and a little wide and  will be easier to start driving the screw in. I installed this clamp after making the connections. Insert both the clamps ears first in to the enclosure. Such that the screw will be inserted from the top. Then drive in one screw a mm or 2 only to hold in place. Now drive in the second just a bit. Just the push /wiggle the cable  through it so that the bared wires are out of the clamp, and tighten the clamp as required .", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1312, "id": 45436, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 168, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "The ice maker is wonderful!  Love the red color - it goes with all my other kitchen appliances and is the only red one I could find on the Internet.  There are 3 choices of ice cubes - the donut kind with a hole in the middle.  We use the medium size and it is really fast.  Lots of cubes for a few glasses before it has to start making more of the little \"cubers\".  My son thought I was crazy when I told him I had ordered an ice maker, and a red one at that!  But, after he set it up for me, added the water, set the size of the cubes, then waited just a few minutes before the ice was plunking into the container - he said, \"Wow, mom!  This is great!  What a good idea!\"  I said pretty much the same thing in a previous review for this product - so am really just repeating how pleased we are with this purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1313, "id": 84553, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 188, "len_tokens": 224, "text": "We have owned this dishwasher for over two years and have never had one single problem with it.  We did buy it refurbished, so I feel like we got an even better deal given how incredible this thing works.  The features are plentiful, however we usually just use Normal setting.  Dishes come out clean.  We use Finish tablet soap as well as Finish Rinse Aid.\n\nI am writing this review because I stumbled on this product here on Amazon and noticed the low rating.  Baffled, I started reading and was disappointed to see so many people have had problems.  I feel like our experience was different enough to warrant contributing to the opinions collected here.\n\nIn 2010 many states banned the use of phosphates in consumer dishwashing detergent.  This seems to have resulted in a mass of negative reviews on dishwashers, however in our case, despite being in a state that has banned phosphate, we continue to have excellent results with this dishwasher.  We have also not had any electrical parts fail.\n\nWe also own an LG gas range and it has been reliable and trustworthy as well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1314, "id": 335624, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 168, "len_tokens": 200, "text": "I bought this product after reading the description and a customer reviewing confirming it was compatible with Samsung refrigerators DA29-0003G. The review mentioned it was only of a little different length/size but fit. That was why I placed my order without hesitation but NO!!! watch out. It looks exactly the same but with a tiny difference in the two teeth that have to fit in. They do not fit in and so you will never be able to turn it on to click.... I tried two of the three fitlers I received but they did not fit. I then tried again my old (not original) one and it went perfectly. I tried for a third time this new one but again it was never compatible as claimed in the description by the seller/manifacturer. It will go back..... The following is an Update on May 11th, 2015: The one that really works and I have now been using since after the original review date is ACE+ ..... Best Luck.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1315, "id": 394632, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 192, "len_tokens": 214, "text": "I did not buy this from Amazon but bought it from our local small appliance store when our old Maytag gave up the ghost and repairs were not sensible. I went to the appliance store with the intention of buying something else - for more money - when the appliance guy told me about this Speed Queen. Its features and he persuaded me. That was a few years ago and I have never had one regret. I love this machine! Yes, it is possible to love a washing machine. This is a GREAT washing machine and we have owned several types and brands over the years. From here on out, I never want to have any other kind but a Speed Queen and the way this one works like a champ, it looks like I will be able to own THIS one for a long, long time. It just does a superb job, no problems. I am a very finicky laundry-person and this machine works beautifully for a finicky laundry-person. So grateful for that appliance guy! Now I hope he can recommend a stove and refrigerator as good as this Speed Queen!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1316, "id": 457962, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 172, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "The moment I saw this oven on the showroom floor I knew it was the one. (Everything else in our remodel changed over time, but with this oven, I went with my first love.) And I love, love, love it still. We used it to bake a 22-lb. turkey at Thanksgiving and it was fabulous! I can't wait to try out all the features once the holidays are behind us. We bought the black model and it is beautiful. Our color accent is blue, so the blue interior and the blue clock light fit in perfectly. One small thing to mention is the digital clock light on the front is always on and at night is quite bright. As our oven is situated sideways and slightly back from the sitting and dining areas, this is not a problem, but if it were, say, within eye range while you were watching TV I think it could be a bit bothersome. Maybe there's a feature to lessen the brightness, but I don't think so.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1317, "id": 281229, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 213, "len_tokens": 254, "text": "My dryer seemed like it was taking a looooong time to run the Automatic cycle, and thought it might be a problem with the dryer's moisture sensor, or the vent was getting clogged. I haven't cleaned the 4\" solid  duct for my dryer vent in 20 years, so figured that could be part of the problem and start there.\n\nI wasn't sure how flexible the shaft would be to go through the elbows on my dryer's 12' of ductwork, but it handled a 90' turn with no problems. I did take the pipe apart at one elbow to make sure I got all the lint out. The supplied shaft extensions gave me plenty of length to do the job.\n\nBrush could be just a tad bigger to exert more \"scrubbing \" force to the inside walls of the pipe, but pulling it in and out with my drill running full speed was sufficient to do a good job unsticking all the lint...and it gave me a sort of fun satisfying feeling to really ream the pipe out!\n\nAfter getting all the lint vacuumed up and the ductwork reassembled, my dryer seems to take a LOT less time to dry a load of clothes :-) . Great, well made product and well worth it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1318, "id": 169648, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 218, "len_tokens": 231, "text": "just want to say kit worked awesome and easy to install took under 15 min was pulling our hair out on washing machine going unbalanced know matter how small or how big the load was and no matter how careful we loaded it making it as even as possible so would not go unbalance was actually in the process looking at new washing machines to replace old one witch had been purchased in 2009 cause thought might be worn out we as a family do on the average 2 loads of wash  a day more on weekends so if your machine going unbalanced easily and never did it before and getting worse I highly suggest replacing suspension kit saved our family a lot of money and machine runs smooth now and one other thing compared old kit to new one could not see no actual damage or big difference that would cause issue or worn out but don't let that fool you if top cups where out slightly different then other ones hard to see and if springs loose there stiffness also new kit comes with plastic bushings so top swivel ball rides on it my machine was plastic on metal so its a update make sure you use plastic bushing don't throw out very happy with purchase", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1319, "id": 256856, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 218, "len_tokens": 256, "text": "This filter literally BROKE MY FRIDGE. Water pump/ filter head no longer works. I installed this filter, heard a bunch of clunks and got 1/4 cup of water. I tried re-installing my old filter and that didn't fix it. Repairman says I need a new filter head/ pump, for several hundred dollars. Amazon says the manufacturer is responsible for problems their items cause and they don't have any liability, although they are selling the product through their site and the search function says this filter works for my model fridge. I have an email into the manufacturer so we'll see.\n\n*** This is an additional comment after having my fridge repaired and contacting the company about the problem. I did send them a receipt for $180 of labor to repair my fridge (the part was under warranty) and after some issues with paypal the company refunded the repair money in full. Please check if the filter you are removing has a circle or a square at the tip. If it's a circle, do not use this filter. The repair company told me, as well, that you should run the filter under your faucet for a minute or two to soak it, even though the directions do not say to do so. This may help with the pump issue.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1320, "id": 35962, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 176, "len_tokens": 219, "text": "Tried hard to make it work. The adapter was too small for the three-bolt mount used by my old Emerson disposal. When I finally got it in place, my new Waste King 2600 simply fell through the retaining ring. I had to return both the 2600 and the kit . . . with shipping charged to me.\n\nI needed the kit because I wanted to use my existing polished brass sink flange. Otherwise, I would have used the hardware supplied with the 2600, which looked as if it would work nicely.\n\nAnd, yes, I tried everything. I spoke with Waste King, viewed their videos and read their literature, so I'm confident I did what I was supposed to do. Problem was that the outside diameter of the part of the kit that mates with the existing three-bolt mount system was 82mm, while the outside diameter of my old Emerson was 89mm. The kit piece simply isn't large enough\n\nI went to Lowes, bought an Insinkerator, which is made by Emerson, and installed it with no problem.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1321, "id": 129803, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 191, "len_tokens": 219, "text": "We are very happy with this hood.  I did some comparison shopping before buying it, looking at other hoods in showrooms, and decided to go with this hood due to the combination of design, number of positive reviews on Amazon, and the price point.\n\nDue to some reviews I was concerned installation would be difficult, so I hired an experienced electrician, who had no problem installing it.  But looking at the manual and observing the process made me think that the hardest part was knowing exactly where to locate it on the wall, and cutting out the vent hole.\n\nPros - as mentioned above, plus now that it is installed we find it draws well, and are pleased at how relatively quiet it is, especially compared to more expensive models I previewed before the purchase.  I would also mention that one screen filter was slightly damaged in transit and Kitchen Bath Collection's customer service proved excellent, being courteous and responsive to our call and sending us a replacement.\n\nCons - I will agree that the LED lighting emits an odd blueish color, but that is not a big concern to us.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1322, "id": 481794, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 165, "len_tokens": 200, "text": "If you are looking for a very quiet dishwasher, but don't have concern for if your dishes are actually cleaned this is for you.  The Miele Futura Dimension is super quiet, you can't even tell it is on.  And when it is done, you also won't really be able to tell if it has run from looking at your dishes & silverware.  Because it doesn't do a very good job washing dishes.\n\nThe finish & look is great, the loading is difficult, and the silverware draw thing is cumbersome to load, but you could also just put your silverware away dirty, or give them a quick rinse because that is basically what the dishwasher does.\n\nThe long cycles are not a problem for us, as we only do dishes once a day, so having the machine running for such a long time isn't a big deal.\n\nIn summary:  Great quiet dishwasher, except it doesn't get dishes too clean.  Everything else about it is really great.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1323, "id": 495907, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 207, "len_tokens": 248, "text": "This has been a terrible purchase. This is the noisiest refrigerator I have ever heard. The technicians have been out 4 times in the last year since i bought it, and the problem still exists. The techs have been out for multiple issues form the ice maker to the door not sealing to the unit being very noisy. All three problems are still an issue even after 4 visits by technicians. The mailed me parts for a third time now. Got the new door a few weeks ago and it was damaged.  The have to install a new compressor. Overall, its been a terrible experience. I asked them to just replace it at this point and the customer service lady said that she couldn't because they have operated under one work order the whole time and that it takes 3 to be eligible.  4 visits. one work order. Pissed off customer. Really i just want my money back. You can have the fridge.  I very rarely leave negative feedback. This has been terrible. Oh and before i forget. The service window that you have to make yourself available is 8-5. So i have given up 4 days of work to be available for their tech... NOT COOL.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1324, "id": 164961, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 246, "len_tokens": 282, "text": "Pros:\n\n-- So quiet you don't hear it even if you're in the same room. Having a Bosch is like getting another room in your house.\n-- Cleaning is amazing if you use the right detergent for your water and your water isn't too hard. Finish Tabs work extremely well for us.\n-- Efficiency is phenomenal. Uses extremely little water and electricity so over the life of the dishwasher it will save you a few bucks.\n\nCons:\n\n-- You have to use good quality detergent. If your detergent is poor quality I think the problems are magnified in the Bosch because it uses so little water.\n-- Racks are odd and take some getting used to. They have good features but I like American style racks better.\n-- There is no dry cycle. So dishes (especially plastics) can be a little wet when you take them out. That, along with 2 hour cycles is the price you pay for ultra energy efficiency (the dishwasher only uses about $20 worth of electricity in a YEAR).\n\nEveryone should know: If you want ultra-quiet, the price you pay will be long cycles because the dishwasher is running at lower water pressure. The faster the dishwasher, the louder it is going to be. So I suppose speed versus noise is the tradeoff you should be aware of when you buy the dishwasher. If you want quiet Bosch is a great choice. Though there are other good choices as well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1325, "id": 537001, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 161, "len_tokens": 206, "text": "For the life of me, I'll never understand why LG (like so many other manufacturers) would use what is basically an aquarium pump in a washing machine, but it does the job...until it doesn't anymore.  The good thing about this design approach is that the repair parts are much cheaper.  Several places wanted over $60 for this same part.  Even with expedited shipping (overnight service), I had my problem solved for less than $35 here on Amazon.  The original pump lasted about 12 years. If this one lasts that long I suppose it will be time for a new washing machine anyway.  I knock one star off only because this was a white-label product. It says Genuine LG Factory Original...blah, blah...but I can't be sure.  It fit perfectly, and the electrical connections were correct, so it might well be OEM.  I just can't know that based on what I got.  Either way, it was an easy fix and a great deal.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1326, "id": 218639, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 197, "len_tokens": 230, "text": "With the ice thickness set to the factory setting, our ice was also coming out as a thick sheet.  We reached out to other customers on the Amazon site to fix this issue--all you have to do is adjust the ice size to come out thinner.  In very little time at all, the sheets appear to break apart nicely. This means the ice is dropping more frequently, of course, but it's nice to hear how productive the unit is.  On a manufacturing stand point, I think it would have been more helpful if the ice cube sizing was on the front of the unit in stead of the back, and if the ice cube sizing was more intuitive (- or down arrow on a clearly labeled panel for thinner ice, instead of how it is currently by pressing the TOP button to DECREASE the ice size/thickness--nothing is clearly marked). BTW, I don't think the machine is nearly as loud as people make it out to be.  Our old Sub Zero under counter ice machine was horribly loud, especially because the pump ran all the time.  So far so good in less than a week's time.  :-)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1327, "id": 122214, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 236, "len_tokens": 283, "text": "KUDIO2FRSS0 Model Dishwasher.  7 years ago we remodeled and went KA all the way right down to the measuring cups. Each of the five major appliances has had at least one service call.  With the frig, it was a faulty design that stressed the drawer roller connection points causing them to eventually break - replaced three drawers in first five years.  A small noise also developed, but I caught that one within the warranty and had a fan replaced. The microwave had a circuit board burnout - non warranty repair of $330.  The stove had a non-resettable overload open during the first oven cleaning mode - so the service guy tells us not to use the feature because it will simply open again.  Then there is the Trash Compactor.  That was easier to get their attention once I mentioned the fact that we experienced smoke and a burning smell while it operated. They rebuilt the entire unit even though it was out of warranty - wise decision on their part.  Last year the door mechanism gave out on the dishwasher. Last month, the  dishwasher motor / pump was replaced, and today the serviceman informed me the heater control problem would be ~$400 and he had no guarntee that the design issue that allowed this failure to occur has been corrected.  We are currently shopping for a new dishwasher....good luck if you own a KA major appliance...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1328, "id": 5726, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 149, "len_tokens": 208, "text": "We had one humidifier in our our master bedroom and just purchased a new one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YFFRDV0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01) for our living room.  We have been using this add in for about a year and it has helped keep the Algae and grime from growing over weeks of use.  We put about 2 shot glasses it the water reservoir about every 8-10 gallons and it works great.\n\nWant to learn how to receive products at a discounted price for fair reviews? Goto help.amzreviewtrader.com and click through the getting started to find out more about the process. There are many review websites out there, but only a few I enjoy and trust and Amazon Review Trader is the best overall by far. I am not receiving anything for putting this note in here other than trying to make it easier for you to learn about this than it was for me. Enjoy!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1329, "id": 57964, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 206, "len_tokens": 256, "text": "I was skeptical ordering this product because I felt my dryer duct was so unique. I live on the second floor of a four-unit building, and my dryer duct travels under my floor 20' to get to the outside. On the outside, there's about a 15' drop to the ground. The ground is also sloped, so I can't put a ladder there without digging a platform. Plus, I don't even have a ladder to begin with.\n\nAnd so, I was going to have to clean my dryer duct just from the inside-out, using the 12' extension. I initially tried the wide-brush, but by the 19th foot, it got stuck. I then pulled it out, and changed the brush to the claw. When I snaked this through the duct, it punched all the way through! I went outside and I could see that the claw had taken a bird's nest with it! I then replaced the claw with the wide-brush, but again it got stuck. I finally cut the bristles on the wide brush by a third, and that finally went all the way through.\n\nThanks Gardus, I'm glad I didn't have to pay some pricey technician just to get my dryer working in top shape again!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1330, "id": 90987, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 190, "len_tokens": 232, "text": "4 stars because the \"fit\" is perfect for GE/Hotpoint range model #R B757B H1WH. Otherwise, I would have only given the drip bowls 2 stars, as I confused myself by expecting the drip pans to be made out of the same materials and heft as the oven lining itself which is porcelain enamel. I believe these black porcelain drip pans are the same as the originals that came with the stove. The originals rusted and wore through within less than a year just like the chrome ones that I have purchased as replacements. I don't always remember to wash and dry drip pans after each use, so that probably contributes to more rapid corrosion of the pans. However, I have paid as little as $5.00/set and as much as $15.00/set for replacement drip pans, and they still end up rusting quite rapidly. GE says not to line the drip bowls with aluminum foil so as to avoid hotspots...so there you are. I can't really fault the quality of these yet as they haven't been given time to please or disappoint, but I will keep searching for baked enamel drip pans.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1331, "id": 218889, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 167, "len_tokens": 211, "text": "Bought this product a year ago.  Noticed a lot of negative reviews from people that seem to be borderline collectors.  Not sure why they would even consider a product in this price range.\nVery satisfied for my purposes!  I buy mainly $15 to $25 reds.\nAs I recall, it did take some time to get to my desired setting (62f -- don't think I ever tried going lower), but it got down to low 70's/high 60's pretty quickly -- which should be low enough to prevent any damage to a $20 wine. (Note:I bought the product in the summer and I'll usually let my place get to the high 80's before turning on the ac -- pretty much the reason I got this.  So it might work a lot quicker if you keep your place cooler).\nIt's very quiet.  I never here it.\nIt will hold 24 typical shaped bottles on the 6 racks.  It will hold 4 wider ones under the bottom rack.  28 total!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1332, "id": 296810, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 167, "len_tokens": 224, "text": "DO NOT BUY the XPB45 it has been discountinued...this model broke down on me after a couple of months of use.....its been a along battle with the seller and amazon and i still haven't gotten this resolved.. seller makes me cut my cord so i can use it..then...the seller sends me a replacement instead, the PAN612SG....this model as well is useless, why because its not as advertised....its way smaller. as you can in the last pic the size of the covers different in size..you cant even wash a pair of adult jeans in it....according to the seller its suppose to be bigger...12lbs capacity....its looks more like a 7.9 capacity....more for kids clothes....smh...and i bought insurance on it still trying to work on that not sure if they will honor it....this was such a waste time and money....i coulda bought one from a department store...instead of these piece of craps machines....very disspointed in amazon not taking care this properly....will update to see in the insurance will honor it....", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1333, "id": 201219, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 192, "len_tokens": 218, "text": "I installed this in a Kenmore stove.\n\nThe part itself works well, and was a suitable replacement for the original heating element, which had infinite resistance (it was DEAD).\n\nThe oven now preheats quickly and cook very evenly. I'm very pleased with the results.\n\nThe contacts on the part were not the same width as the original element's. I placed the new element over the original and bent it so that it matched the angles of the original part's bends. I also adjusted the placement of the metal supports with pliers to more closely resemble the original's.\n\nWhen I first put it in, I then noticed that it was floating above the floor of the oven while being installed.\n\nI pulled it back out and adjusted the angle of the contacts by bending both sides downwards near the mounting points. I put the part back in and it fit perfectly after that.\n\nI will also note that the diameter of the new element is smaller than the old one's. This did not alter it's functionality, but the use of less material to make the replacement may be of concern to some.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1334, "id": 510632, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 230, "len_tokens": 281, "text": "This terrific little dryer is used in my apartment bathroom. I was worried at first that it would heat up my entire house because I cannot vent it to the outside, but this has never been a problem.  It does warm up the bathroom, yes, but provided I keep the door open, it's not a problem.  Here's the nifty part:  Because I can't vent it outside, I was worried I'd have dust and lint all over the bathroom and would need one of those water traps.  Well, this has never happened.  I took the door off of my bathroom's linen closet and set a little portable washer on the floor and this dryer on the middle shelf.  There was no place to vent it, so all I did was put an old stocking over the exhaust area and this has been my only lint trap, and it's always worked fine. In fact, I've only replaced that stocking once in 2 years.  It just doesn't put out that much lint or dust -- which amazes me because my full-size dryer did.  I make sure I clean the interior lint trap after every use and this little dryer has treated me very, very well.  It dries a complete set of sheets, and even heavy towels and jeans, and doesn't wrinkle them from being crammed in something too small.  Perfect buy for me.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1335, "id": 469141, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 171, "len_tokens": 237, "text": "JUST UPDATING THAT IT HAS NOW BEEN ABOUT 30 MONTHS OF DAILY USE AND NO ISSUES WHATSOEVER.\n\nI have had this unit for over a year now and it's pretty darn good. It looks classy and it feels safe and soundly designed. It cleans up well, even when a sauce has spilled over and then 'congealed dry' onto the heating surface. It puts out enough heat for most anything except maybe stir fry. I 'slap' the convenient one-touch buttons a lot and none have burned out yet. Nice and solid.\n\nI am an amateur though. I don't need fine point low to super low settings. A proper cook would, especially for simmering milk or cream. The way this is set up, there are 100, 300, 500, 700, 900, 1100, 1300, and 1500 watt settings. That 'seems' like plenty. Better would be 50-100-150-200-300 and then just a couple more for medium and high after that. But this is still a fine unit and I would buy another, at least for my needs.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1336, "id": 41787, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 189, "len_tokens": 231, "text": "Firstly, some of the reviewers said that the hood was \"flimsy\".  I was a little concerned about that.  It is not flimsy at all in my opinion.  It seems to be the same gauge material that was in my old one that I replaced and it was steel.  I was glad that I read the reviews because I did have a little difficulty with the knock out for the vent.  There was also a light leak in mine that I caulked shut as did the other reviewer.  Mine came packaged adequately and was undamaged.  There is nothing to installing it.  It is a good idea to have two people because it is a little difficult to hold it and screw in the screws by oneself.  The fan is a little loud at full speed, but as one reviewer said, they all are.  There are undoubtedly better hoods available but when one considers the whole package: stainless steel, variable speed fan, two settings on the light, looks great when installed and the price, I don't believe there is a better deal anywhere else.  I would recommend this hood to anyone.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1337, "id": 25124, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 172, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "I bought this for checking the temp and humidity in my attic.  Since I don't have access to a laboratory calibration system to check the accuracy I have to assume it is reading correctly.  I did try to adjust the temp based on another thermometer and it was not as \"adjustable\" as I thought it should be.  It did not allow for the precision that I thought it should based on it's price, and that is why I rated it 4 rather than 5 stars.  But the display is large and easy to read.  I do not plan to use the alert, I will check the readings periodically, since it is in the attic I would not hear the sounds anyway.  I also have not used the probe, I just keep it attached to the case, but it is a nice extra.  I will use it for a year or so, and if it continues to perform well, I will buy another for the basement to monitor the humidity in that area.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1338, "id": 185162, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 209, "len_tokens": 232, "text": "In less than a month the drum belt broke and the dryer stopped working. I'm a single person and so don't use the dryer frequently, maybe 2 loads a week. I was really surprised by this given the other great reviews.  I called the repair service and I got a call back one week later to schedule service of the dryer. The repair technician was very nice and said he is going to order the part but because this dryer is somewhat of a specialty appliance it takes several days to receive the part. He also said that it is very dangerous to use the appliance in this state. He explained that without the belt the dryer overheats and can cause a fire to occur. So, if this happens to you be sure to stop using the machine immediately and call the repair service. I asked the repairman whether this was common and he said that it's an inexpensive dryer, suggesting you get what you pay for.\n\nIf I could, I would just return the appliance and get something more expensive that is reliable. I worry about leaving clothes in this dryer to dry while I'm away from home in the event it happens again and causes a fire.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1339, "id": 87900, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "So, this is what life comes down to when you are 50 years old:  reviewing dryer vent cleaners while sitting at your kitchen table waiting for American Idol.  This is not what I envisioned when I was 12, I can tell you that much.  You kids who think it won't happen to you?\n\nIt will.  Sorry to burst your bubble.\n\nThat said, the product works great.  Our dryer pretty much stopped working and we were thinking we needed a new one, which was seriously going to eat into my plastic surgery budget.  One last shot before a trip to the appliance store was this Gardus LintEater.  My husband, who is not the handy one of the family, had to do the work as I have a torn labrum.  (Which sounds dirtier than it is - that's part of your shoulder.)  He, the clumsiest man in the world, had absolutely no problem using this.  I warned him to read the directions first, and he actually listened and followed.  He hooked it up to the drill, and away he went.  He got a bunch of musty, wet lint that had probably been up inside the wall since 1977  - probably consisting of bell bottom material and macram.\n\nNow our dryer actually dries clothes again, and I can continue to save for my facelift. Thank you Gardus.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1340, "id": 82815, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 170, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "The fan fits and works and installed quickly.  My only complaint is that it is loud even at low speed, but I imagine the original did as well.  It moves air well.  For a little over $15 I was able to repair the vent hood in my kitchen that was broken when I moved in to my house, a much better prospect than buying a new hood.  Eventually I will redo my kitchen and will probably buy a better (quieter) hood and fan, but until then I am happy.  I read some reviews that said that they had to install this fan backwards to get it to work right.  I did not have this problem at all, but I also checked Broan's online parts manual and double-checked that I was ordering the correct part number for my hood's model number.  Only other thing I can think of to mention is that it didn't come with mounting screws, so make certain to save the ones when you remove the old/broken fan.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1341, "id": 508561, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 153, "len_tokens": 225, "text": "We've had this model for 7 years.  Will replace it with a CEE Tier-3 in a kitchen remodel because it doesn't appear to be energy-star, let alone CEE Tiers 1-3.  If energy efficiency is not an issue, it's been totally reliable, with plenty of room for pitchers of water, milk, OJ, soymilk, weekly supply of fresh veggies, and the weekly leftovers.  Lots of door storage.  Freezer handles pizza boxes easily.  I did remove all the clear plastic bins which I found constraining, so we've basically got three open shelves in the fridge where we find everything quickly.  I'd keep it if it were counter-depth, but it is 31 5/8 inches deep wi/out handle, 32 7/8 inches wide, & 66 7/8 high. The most efficient refrigerators on the market (side-by-sides) run $1400; better value to pay a bit more and get one of those.  The refrigerator is the most energy-consuming appliance in the kitchen.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1342, "id": 215854, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 230, "len_tokens": 272, "text": "I bought this item new from Amazon for $254 - and in my opinion, there's a reason this cooktop is much cheaper than almost all other cooktops with sealed burners.\n\nIn terms of appearance - it does look nice, with the sealed burners, stainless steel, and continuous grates.\n\nHowever, I had a few issues with functionality.  The first thing I noticed was that the inner ring of the power burner would not consistently light.  Not matter how many ways I tried to light it, I only got the inner ring to light completely once.  So for the most part, the inner ring would just be releasing gas while the outer ring is burning.\n\nThe second thing I noticed is that the other burners - particularly the front simmer burner - do not reliably stay lit.  It's easy to ignite, but beyond that, they usually shut off as soon as the knob is turned from Light to High.  I've seen a few reviews on Amazon with similar experiences - and per the reply, I tried rotating the burner cap, but I still did not get consistent performance.\n\nBottom line - I see the power burner inner ring issue as a safety issue and an inconvenience, and I see the simmer burner issue as a major annoyance.  Yes, the price is low and it looks nice, but it is simply not reliable.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1343, "id": 189493, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 169, "len_tokens": 219, "text": "I am not at all impressed by this product. I sent the first one  back and will be returning this one as well. It has 5 heat settings from \"C1 (melt/warm), C2 (simmer), C3 (boil) C4 (fry). and C5 (sear). I am a cook by trade so I know  that a learning curve is involved with new technology, but this unit does not perform well at all. It worked intermittently and was literally burning bacon and sausage on the C2 setting and occasionally boils on C1, I never tried the \"sear\" setting because I wasn't sure what would happen. I love the idea of this technology and will be purchasing another unit but from a different manufacturer. I will say that it is an attractive unit and is big enough to accommodate a 9 1/2' pan. I just wished it worked properly.\nUPDATE: I will not be returning the second Nesco induction portable cook top as the shipping cost is prohibitive. I'll just use it as is", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1344, "id": 25659, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 208, "len_tokens": 253, "text": "My continuous feed 3/4hp kitchenmaid garbage disposal was jammed and none of the suggestions I found online (I never did figure out how to do the broom one) worked.  I wasn't sure what happened since it was working when I went out of town and not when I got back. When I switched it on turned it made this humming sound, so it powered on, but nothing else happened.  I tried all kinds of things to get the blades or that bottom plate to move but nothing worked.\n\nI was shopping for a new one when I saw this and decided that for the price, it was worth a try.  Whats another tool I don't use? I will just expand my collection.  It didn't occur to me until later that it was just meant for the insinkerator.  Even on the package it stated it was only for the insinkerator and a couple of other brands that did NOT include kitchenmaid.  But I opened it, searched for that opening where it's supposed to fit into under the disposal and there it was.  5 minutes and a few twists later, my garbage disposal is working once again.\n\nNow what to do with those $300 bucks I was going to spend....?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1345, "id": 5270, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 262, "len_tokens": 287, "text": "I sent a review not being happy and received a reply back from customer service rep on 12/21/2007 I called back and still have not heard from company this is a copy of e-mail sent to me\nHello Antoinette,\n\nI would like to thank you in advance for considering taking off the negative rating on Amazon.\n\nI am really sorry about this and I want you to know that we are in middle of hiring a new customer service staff that has to go through a training process.\n\nI still feel that I have to make this up to you; therefore I would like to refund your complete order. And also give you a 5% discount and free shipping on anything else you find on our website. Just call me directly and I will personally handle your request.\n\nI need a little help from you please I do not like to beg but Amazon is on our case and it would really help me and the company if you were to remove the negative rating. I know I may not deserve the negative rating taken off. But is there anyway that you can do me this huge favor?\nmy answer was to call them and I left message I received wrong merchandise and would like my money back I had to purchase a new machine filter sent were not even close to the right ones. I gave them a chance to make it right but they did not. I am tired of playing games with these companies I just considered the loss.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1346, "id": 471112, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 179, "len_tokens": 229, "text": "On December 23rd, 2013 my six-month-old range developed a gas leak.  The gas company rep came within 15 minutes and announced the problem wasn't in the line.  A call to customer support at Kitchen Aid left me knowing that there would be no Christmas dinner at my house.  Now there hasn't been a New Year's dinner either and we're a week into 2014.  Kitchen Aid contracts with only three appliance repair shops in my area to provide service.  A technician came and announced that he would order parts.  There has been no follow up from either Kitchen Aid nor Integrity Appliance Repair.  I'm not a screamer, not a complainer, not one thinking that the world revolves around her.  I'm a retired teacher who knows you draw neither repeat customers nor new customers by treating them this way.  I just want my range to be fixed.  About Customer Service at Kitchen Aid?  They must take extra lessons in how to be rude and demeaning to customers.  Many other companies make kitchen ranges.  You don't want to deal with this one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1347, "id": 244603, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 196, "len_tokens": 249, "text": "These things REALLY work!  I bought these based on all the positive reviews as a desperate attempt to find something that would stop our female tabby from throwing up 2-3 times a day, every time she ate.  I've been giving both our cats 3 a day (less than the \"treament\" amount but more than the \"maintenance\" amount), and in the past month, the tabby has thrown up maybe 2 or 3 times total.  Our boy cat, who had hairballs more rarely (maybe one every other week), hasn't had a single one since they started getting these.  And they absolutely LOVE them!  They're moist and chewy, and I've been able to train them both to sit up on their back feet on command for these treats.  I hadn't held out much hope for these since we'd already tried Petromalt and had switched them to expensive hairball formula cat food, but I was definitely surprised at how well they work.  Go for Subscribe & Save to save some money -- a box of 10 packs every 6 months is just about perfect, and if you wind up with too many, you can always skip or delay a shipment.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1348, "id": 456501, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 170, "len_tokens": 213, "text": "Purchased Whirlpool Duet Sport WFW8400te stack-able in 2009. Although no major repairs, I have had the following. Washer takes longer to operate than the digital indicator says. Extremely poor front door gasket design, leaks badly, water and suds all over a wide area, no obvious rips or tears . Have a wet vac and towels handy for that happy occurrence. Interior door gasket retains mold and suds and dirt, never really comes clean even after using the cleaning cycle. The machines electronics malfunction for no obvious reason, leaving water in the barrel and the door locked. Leaves the control panel inoperative. Spin and drain cycles operate poorly occasionally, needing repeated tries to remove the suds / water. Reduced detergent usage, HE laundry soap still results in excessive suds in washer. Drain hose from barrel connected to the pump slipped off, flooding. Cheap wire clamp replaced with a reliable band clamp. Might be water efficient and gives extended life on clothing. Poor return considering the price. Go with a top loader.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1349, "id": 469957, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 192, "len_tokens": 230, "text": "Although these vents look nice, it turns out they have at least two VERY major design flaws.\n\n1) On any \"windy\" days with gusts much above 10mph, these vents make an awful racket as though somebody is banging on the side of your house with a baseball. I never experienced anything like this with the previous vents on the house.\n\n2) During this past summer, a thunderstorm rolled through with ~35mph gusts.  I went into the backyard the following morning to discover that the hinge on one of the vent covers had broken off and blown into my yard. I figured this was just a fluke and bought a replacement vent. Fast forward to this past weekend when a winter storm came through with similar wind speeds, and a SECOND vent broke and blew off. The plastic hinges on which the vent cover pivots is a definite weak spot with how easily the covers are rattled around in any amount of wind.\n\nUPDATE: well, it's official. All FOUR vent covers have broken within three years of installation.\n\nNov 2017 UPDATE: TWO of the replacement have broken. That's a total of SIX failures", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1350, "id": 494503, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 279, "text": "Great design but it stops there ...Purchased September 2014 and delivered October 4, 2014.  The noise is incredible and runs mist of the time after looking at the instruction book about the \"whirring sound\" and thinking this is not an indoor whir I called GE Service.  After I was told it was normal with new energy efficient technology, I insisted a tech come.  He too said nothing is wrong.  That call was 6 weeks after delivery.  January 19 .. it stopped working and we lost all of our food. The Tech came out on January 20, 2015, plugged in his computer to the top and told my husband he was doing a new software fix.  He further explained GE only fixes the software when customers complain.  Looks like everyone else must keep their fingers crossed.  On February 19, the temperature went up to 61 and climbing.  Called for service and today tech number one came back and said it was a fan but didn't have a part.  So we here are with more lost food and making due eating take out.\nSadly, we thought we did much research before this purchase....DO NOT BUY this product.  I can only say we are beginning the fight with GE but after reading other reviews on a similar style not sure this is an easy battle.  Buyer beware.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1351, "id": 42323, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 174, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "Great little product, I was actually blowing out my plastic water filters, the last time the hammering blew out the filter housing which was a $50 part! Overall I recommend this product for protection of your refrigerator's parts and filter.  My only gripe was that it has two male connectors, making a simple pass through connection on the permanent plumbing connections difficult. So you can't just attach it to a Tee, for instance. So what I had to do was go out to the hardware store and get a pack of compression nuts and sleeves, (they don't sell just one).  I had to cut a small piece of tubing and then attach it to the Tee, then attach the tubing to the arrestor.  I then attached the original tubing to the arrestor. So all this could have been avoided with either an adapter or a male connector on one side & a female connector on the other. Oh, I also turned down the main flow into the house to lower the water pressure.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1352, "id": 496208, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 249, "len_tokens": 288, "text": "We have extremely hard water resulting in the constant buildup of lime deposits in the filtration system of our Bosch Dishwasher.  Accordingly, we have to clean the lime buildup (or scale) from the interior of the dishwasher to ensure proper and efficient functioning of our washer.  Descaling the washer is not a difficult process, save for the the tertiary mesh screen filter.  This filter usually contains a large portion of the lime buildup, and after 5 years of descaling, the filter simply fell apart.\n\nWe were fortunate to find the exact match of the tertiary mesh filter on Amazon... and for a good deal less than those on competitor websites.  There are a few caveats - this comes as an assembly with both the secondary and tertiary filters; we were unable to find an outlet for just the mesh filter.  Also, be careful you look for and buy the filter assembly that fits your Bosch dishwasher.  There are a few assemblies out there and they are not universal in size and shape. The upside of the fact that you have to buy an assembly is that you're all but guaranteed to have the secondary part if you ever need to replace that one, not to mention the delicate mesh filter will make it to your home or business intact.\n\n...and YES, both filters we received were genuine Bosch Neff Parts and fit our DW like a glove.\n\nSo, after all that, what are you waiting for? Buy it today!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1353, "id": 49321, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 169, "len_tokens": 202, "text": "I like the overall product.  Nice finish, easy install, easy to mod for different setups.  The one and only thing I would reengineer would be the output at the top.\nIf this unit is used as a non-venting hood--meaning that the collected air does NOT get pumped outdoors, you will find yourself having to clean the cabinets above the hood more often.\n\nThe top vent blows the air toward the cabinets, instead of away from the cabinets.  I have not bothered to pull it back down and see if I can fabricate a duct change to redirect the air away from the cabinets, but it probably can be done.\n\nThe dual lights are very nice and provide ample light.  The 3 fan speeds are nice also but louder on speeds 2 and 3 than I expected.  Unit looks much better overall than many that are out there.\n\nOh, the price could come down a bit I guess, but it does go well with a black stove and wall \"plate\".", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1354, "id": 68592, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 222, "len_tokens": 277, "text": "Like with all major purchases, I researched the heck out of this machine and its competitors. My biggest issue is the fact that I'm in a condo in a busy metro area, and there is simply no room for a full-sized washer (much to my chagrin).  I'd been using the original washer and dryer that came with the unit--which was built in 1989! I will say, to Whirlpool's credit, that both were still working great; it was just time to upgrade to something cleaner and more energy efficient, and hopefully with larger capacity.  This machine really fits the bill. My laundry comes out smelling much more fresh and simply feels cleaner.  I've followed the advice of other front-load owners and left the door and soap dispenser open after wash cycles to allow them air-dry, and have had no issues with the foul smell (probably mildew) that other owners have complained of with this type of unit. Its incredibly quiet, which in a small condo is a big deal! The wash cycle is fairly long (circa 1 hour), but that's not been an issue. The only thing I can't do is wash my comforters; I still have to take them to a friend's house, but I have yet to find a 24\" washer that *can* handle an item that large. Highly recommended!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1355, "id": 430357, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 163, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "Genuine GE filters cost about $40.  These filters cost less than half that.  Well apparently you really do get what you pay for.\n\nWhen I first installed the filter I flushed the system like you're supposed to.  The first few cups of water came out loaded with black soot.  This was probably just dust from the filter, but the name-brand replacement filters I usually get have never done this.\n\nAfter flushing the system by drawing a few gallons of water through my water dispenser the black is gone, and the water is almost crystal clear.  Almost.  But as clear as the water is looking now, unfiltered water I draw directly from my kitchen faucet is cleaner looking.  I don't know what's causing slight tint in the water but I'm not drinking it to find out.\n\nOh well, lesson learned.  I'm going to my local home improvement store right now to get a real filter, and I won't be ordering this brand again.  Ever.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1356, "id": 180883, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 163, "len_tokens": 227, "text": "To avoid that extra trip to the hardware store:\nFor my range you need a 7mm nut driver (NOT supplied), another review mentions 5mm.  1/4\" and 5/16\" drivers are too small and too large.  My range needed a 3/16\" ratchet socket (1/4\" socket set should have it) for the burner screws, a nut driver might do.\nScrewdrivers including about a 1/8\" straight blade that fits in a small tube (not flared out near the tip, can grind one down) for the burner idle adjustments (pull the control knobs off & look down the hollow shafts).\nI have a gas manifold pressure gauge and will use it, probably not needed.  Just follow directions to convert the regulator, typically by unscrewing and flipping a piece over.\nA flashlight, piece of baling wire, tape, inspection mirror and fine needle-nose pliers might come in handy to recover a dropped orifice.\nPlease see other reviews for more details; I particularly liked the tips in K. Ferrara's review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1357, "id": 551650, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 161, "len_tokens": 204, "text": "Installed range hood in my open concept home, and immediately see/smell the difference!!! Now the open concept kitchen/living room makes great sense :) I had a little challenge b/c there was no clear opening to the roof, so I had to improvise with ceiling beam and insert oval duct pipe. Also, my high ceiling on angle, thus also had to improvise around the beam and ceiling's angle. In addition I used 6in-to-7in reducer and 7in duct pipe with 7in roof cap to increase upward flow. I decided to make hood as efficient as possible, since it is installed for a long time.\nOne small minus: the little aluminum flapping wings that come with the hood get extremely noisy at high speeds. So, I removed them b/c the roof cap has gravity damper flap included.\nOf course the hood makes noise, but unlike the microwave, it actually sucks out the smell. All-in-all, very satisfied with the purchase. Hood looks and works great!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1358, "id": 325451, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 240, "len_tokens": 287, "text": "Well I really like the hood. Simple one push on or off buttons, push the speed you want and it comes on at that speed. Push off and it's off!\nSome I looked stat a big box store took 4 pushes of the fan button to go from off to high!  First push just seems to wake up the circuit board and light the buttons. Second push turns fan on low, 3rd to med, 4th push to high. From low to off required three pushes. Stupid!\n\nThe filters look very well made. They have latches to release them that work really well and aren't just spring loaded friction fit with plastic pull tabs like most other hoods.\n\nIt's not quite but not too loud either. I don't mind it at all. The fan runs smooth and vibration / rattle free. The fan is metal, and I noticed a balancing weight clipped on it.\n\nThere is very little plastic in this hood. Mostly the wire junction boxes.\n\nThe light has only one light level and they do put out some heat.\nI did seal the damper and duct when installing.\n\nBut...\nMy copy had an issue with the exhaust plate and the wire knockout holes. They were not fully punched when made, making removal much more difficult than it should have been.\nAlso the hood was almost 1/2 inch smaller than my exactly 30\" cabinet leaving a gap on either side.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1359, "id": 418329, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 184, "len_tokens": 210, "text": "I ordered these filters to save money as compared with OEM filters, and the result was proving the old saw, \"You get what you pay for.\" Installation was a snap, so I thought all was good. When I discovered the \"change filter\" notice kept showing up, I let it go a couple of days thinking/hoping it might just take a little time to recognize the filter. So, I tried another of the filters and got the same result. I had gotten an email from the supplier soon after my order was placed that thanked me and assured me they wanted me to be satisfied with my purchase. So, after the issue arose, I responded advising them of it and asking for any suggestions for resolution. Several business days have passed with no response from them, so I can only presume there was no sincerity in their assurances of satisfaction. The filters are now in the process of being returned to Amazon for refund, and I would have rated one star for the whole experience, but \"hate\" is a word I try not to use.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1360, "id": 554532, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 201, "len_tokens": 232, "text": "A simple google search of best college microwave brought this model up and I bought it considering its reasonable\n\nprice and its adherence to my dorm's wattage specifications. I have had 0 problems and all my food heats up really\n\nwell. It has mainly been used to heat up popcorn and Panda Express leftovers as well as the homemade instant\n\ncoffee. No problems so far and I hope that it stays that way. A plus is that the black and sliver model remains low\n\nprofile and sleek at the same time unlike many white boxes for microwaves that are out there. Just what I was\n\nlooking for. I only use the microwave for making my tea and warming up leftovers and vegables. I used to have a\n\nwhite microwave in my kitchen, most of the appliances in my kitchen are black and the old microwave I had just\n\nlooked out of place. It also began to have problems. I knew it would not be too much longer before I needed to\n\nreplace that thing. I found the Danby microwave for a very nice value. The microwave works very well it is easy to\n\nclean and I am very happy with it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1361, "id": 260708, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 208, "len_tokens": 237, "text": "I had an issue receiving one of these vents that was not damaged or defective. I returned three of them back to Amazon before giving up. The way the product is packaged is really shoddy. Each package was also packaged a little differently.\n\nThe first one I ordered and received had an electrical problem. The light was randomly turning on and off after it was installed on my wall and the light button was getting stuck, so I returned it for a replacement. The second one I received had a damaged fan blade so when the blower was turned on it made a horrible noise. I sent that one back as well for a replacement (I'm an optimistic person.). I was hoping to receive one that wasn't defective, however I disappointingly received one that was damaged. There was a huge dent in the side. I didn't bother testing it to see if it was defective.\n\nI feel like I've wasted a lot of time and energy with this whole ordeal. I really question the quality of this product even though it looks nice. The price seems a little too good to be true. The company needs better quality assurance/checking. I'll be buying a hood vent somewhere else.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1362, "id": 496350, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 182, "len_tokens": 236, "text": "Cleans the dishes - what few of them you can fit into it that is.....and that's the extent of the 'PROS'\n\nThe CONS -  The racks on this washer SUCK!  I'd be more polite but it's the truth - they REALLY SUCK.  Unless you have a lot of small, completely flat plates and never use bowls - this is NOT the washer for you.  The other issue is the bottom drawer, which essentially CANNOT be rolled out without it jumping the tracks and getting bunged up.\n\nHow a big company like Bosch could get something SOOOOOOO simple and basic SOOOOOOO wrong is beyond me but take my advice - AVOID THIS POORLY DESIGNED PIECE OF YOU KNOW WHAT.\n\nMy last washer was a Bosch and it was great - why they messed with a good thing is beyond me but I'm here to tell you - they've jumped the shark.\n\nUPDATE - Dropping to 1 star.......I've been living with this thing now for nearly 2 years.....it is infuriatingly, stunningly moronic in design and I curse it every single day. That is all!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1363, "id": 109178, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 245, "len_tokens": 291, "text": "The Evaporator Motor does not come with a thermistor (temperature sensor) connected to the molex connector of this motor (my refrigerator model # is GSL25JFPEBS).  Due to this the old and new motor and sensor have to be cut and connected unless you have a molex remover tool which will cost you more money. Also keep in mind you have to purchase the thermistor (temperature sensor) separately if you can't remove it without damaging it. Also the wires of this motor were put into the blue rubber shoe that goes over the wires and into the connector wrong which will not allow them to go into the connector especially with the thermistor connected into it. My advice do what I did and buy a used motor that has the thermistor connected to it I found one on Ebay for $18 and it was \"plug and play\" easy to install and my fridge is working properly now search for the same original model # of the evaporator motor which is WR60X10043. Don't waste your time contacting GE (General Electric) either as they also don't have the motor with the thermistor connected to it. Go figure. One last piece of advice unless you know for sure your evaporator motor is bad look up on Youtube how to do a diagnostic test on GE evaporator motors which saved me from purchasing the wrong part (condenser motor) instead of an evaporator motor which is what I actually needed.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1364, "id": 476307, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 209, "len_tokens": 241, "text": "I tested this against a good scientific wet-dry bulb sling psychrometer, which I believe is as accurate as you can get. I confirmed that the temp readings of both devices agreed within 1 degree. It was impossible to compare the humidity readings of both to scientific accuracy because I was in a small room with the climate control running and thus there were both temp and humidity gradients happening in the room and there was no way to be sure the GSI device was \"breathing exactly the same air\" (so to speak) as the sling psychrometer (which much be physically spun around and creates it's own turbulence/air mixing). But I tested both several times and there was enough overlap of readings to make me think the GSI device is likely within spec per relative humidity readings. One could do a salt test to find out just how accurate it is but for my purposes it's good enough. If it does what it's supposed to do (it appears to) and lasts a long time (remains to be seen), what makes this item a big winner to me is the low price. I've wanted one for a long time but always held off because they're usually a lot more expensive.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1365, "id": 6711, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 182, "len_tokens": 216, "text": "It's only been one day, but I really like these refrigerator/freezer bulbs. They give off a nice bright white light with very little of the 'blue' tint that many Daylight LED bulbs have.. and they give off almost NO heat whatsoever. They are just slightly larger in than an incandescent A15 appliance bulb, but I didn't have any problems fitting them within the plastic light cover in my Kenmore Trio fridge.\n\nThe drawback... they are expensive!! In fact, I almost went with a cheaper LED appliance-sized bulb, but I decided not to take the chance since they would be used in a damp environment. Right now, these GE bulbs appear to be one of a very few LED bulbs that are specifically rated for use in a refrigerator/freezer, which obviously allows them to charge more. Hopefully the price will come down as more brands start offering this type of LED bulb.\n\nAssuming they actually live up to their life expectancy, they will be worth the cost. I'm actually getting ready to order another one to replace the bulb in my freezer too.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1366, "id": 405131, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 183, "len_tokens": 244, "text": "Packaging: 5 stars.  Box inside a box with styrofoam. Packed very well.\nSetup: 5 stars. Remove tape from ice basket and plug it in.\nIce Making Speed: 5 stars.  This unit pumps out 9 small ice cubes every 8 minutes or so.  Good value for price.\nIce Quality: 4 stars. We made the ice in our home at 74 degrees.  Cubes were a bit wet and a little soft despite being made in an optimal air conditioned setting.\nWhat I wish it had: I wish they put a small hanger or magnet for the scooper.  I rigged up a tiny command hook right above the product name.\n1 month update: consistently drops 9 ice cubes every 8 minutes. Perfect for small parties if you start full. I really like this unit.\n\nGreat value for the money. Perfect for a small dinner party--say 4-6 adults.  Fill it in the morning and run it. Empty into an ice bucket at party time and refill with water to run during party--you won't run out of ice!  I paid full price and get/got zero for this review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1367, "id": 492873, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 192, "len_tokens": 252, "text": "Certainly an interesting replacement part for the water tank assembly for my Kenmore Elite 79575543401.  It seems to be a great part...very flexible hose rated at 165 psi.  The only problem I had was that this hose is 1/4\" and all the literature I can find says that it's a direct replacement for a water tank with 5/16\" plugs which connect to two John Guest fittings.  Therefore, I had two choices - buy a piece of 5/16\" hose and two John Guest fittings to get everything sized up properly; or just buy a 5/16\" hose and return this part.  I chose the latter...fewer connections and less hassle....and ultimately less costly.  Therefore I sent this one back.\n\nHowever, that doesn't mean it wasn't a great product.  Delivery was also quick and like the other reviews, the price was right.  The only comment I left for the vendor was to include the size of the hose in their description.  They claimed they didn't have any say over the wording in the descriptions.  I think I'd check my relationship with Amazon if they won't let me include my own description with parts that I'm selling.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1368, "id": 135659, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 182, "len_tokens": 231, "text": "My original ice maker in a still going GE refrig lasted about fifteen years.  I don't expect this one to last one year.\nThe unit is flimsy plastic.  It did not mount 90 deg to the side wall.  I had to prop it with an approx 1/4 thick shim along the bottom.  It jammed once and I cleared it by removing the unejected ice,  It jammed again but this time it ultimately cleared itself.  The instructions say you cannot use the ejector it comes with, but must swap in the ejector from your original unit.  Not possible in my case since this unit makes seven cubes and my original made eight.  The lengths of the ejectors are different.  The unit is not a direct replacement.  I expect it will jam again soon and when it does I will send it back.  I will replace it with one of the more expensive units.  (Incidently, one that makes eight cubes at once.)\nI would not recommend this ice maker to anyone.  There are better ones available which cost more, but are probably better values..", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1369, "id": 180914, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 175, "len_tokens": 211, "text": "We bought the whole set of GE cafe appliances for our new high-end kitchen. The set looks pretty good, but the performance of the stove (dual fuel) is really bad. From the beginning, the flames in the middle burner where so small, we couldn't use it at all. Then, the first knob broke. As it showed up, the inside of the knob is made out of plastic and cracks easily (the other three knobs died later on). One new knob costs close to $50 Dollars and is not even well made! Now, six years later, two of the gas valves broke and the repair ( including the replacement of 4 broken knobs) will cost over 450 Dollars!. We decided to repair the stove instead of buying a new one because of the high price. Imagine this bad product, made in Mexico, costing close to $3, 000!!! Who can afford buying a new stove every six years? Before, stoves lasted 50 years until you wanted to replace them for a newer model. Not any more...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1370, "id": 215693, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 195, "len_tokens": 233, "text": "Run, run, run as fast as you can from any GE Profile products. We bought four brand new appliances (stove, dishwasher, microwave, and worst of all the french door refrigerator) 3 years ago and have had trouble with all of them. The french door fridge stops cooling and we have had to have it repaired at least 3 times; each time having to pay several hundred dollars. This is after we have had to throw away tons of food, stash food in the snow outside (can only do in the winter months), have stuff melt all over, and borrow space from friends' and family fridges. The dishwasher is just as bad although I don't think it really was intended to wash dishes (you must pre-wash everything, which defeats the purpose of energy efficiency). Even when the fridge is working, it never seems to stay cool enough. I have filed a complaint with BBB. Please, do your research online for yourself. This is a common theme with GE Profile refrigerators. I have contacted their customer service and their suggestion was to buy a new appliance with the discount they will offer. Umm, no thanks, GE.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1371, "id": 432980, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 134, "len_tokens": 255, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R1NKIF1T4J3LQS\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/C16pOFcQ5ES.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81AxbDiZV5S.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;Date: 7/18/18\nImmediately upon arrival I was disappointed. The box was busted with a HUGE hole in it. Unsurprisingly, when I opened it there were cracks and broken pieces all over; primarily in and around the washer. If it were just a crack or two I might just deal with it, but it was busted in at least 6 places. The top to the washer was popped off and broken. I was able to get it back on but only because the plastic pieces connecting it to the rest of the machine were broken as well. It's also got cracks on the inside, which you can see in my video.\n***Ill update my review based on how they handle this situation.***", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1372, "id": 468341, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 188, "len_tokens": 265, "text": "Bought this washer 11-26-12, great sale at HH Gregg. After two years, even though it is still in perfect working condition, we just got rid of it, literally gave it away. Today we replaced it with a Samsung front loader.\n\nI have no doubt of its energy efficiency. It was also quiet and mostly vibration free. Super high spin cycle meant the dryer didn't have to work as hard...Why did we part ways with it??\n\nIT BEATS THE CRAP OUT OF YOUR CLOTHES!!!!!!!!! Every time we used it, all of the clothes looked as if they were hand-braided. They were convoluted, braided, wrinkled, stretched-out messes. VERY hard on clothes. And, unless we put EVERY cycle on \"BULKY\" to give it more water, the clothes would come out half-clean. Even on this setting, often the clothes weren't really clean. And the bedding (sheets, pillowcases) always came out as a \"mushroom\", one sheet puffed up in the middle, with all the braided sheet and pillowcases stuffed witin. Very odd....\n\nSo, goodbye to Whirlpool Cabrio. Three loads done so far in the Samsung front loader, and it's a world of difference..........", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1373, "id": 342277, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 163, "len_tokens": 222, "text": "To quote the company's write up, \"The ReplacementBrand RB-SA2 is a comparable replacement water filter for the Samsung DA29-00020B, HAFCIN, DA29-00020A, AP5271937, Aquafresh WF294, and Water Sentinel WSS-2 Replacement Water Filters.\"\nSince the life of this product is projected as about 6 months, I am unable to review the life expectancy at this point.  I have entered a note in my calendar to update in February 2016 - or later, if it is still doing it's job.\nAt this point, I can only state that the ReplacmentBrand RB-SA2 filter appears structurally the same as the original filter by Samsung.  It inserts readily into the filter opening of the Samsung refrigerator and locks correctly with reasonable effort.  Draining the air from the water line went smoothly, with less air than the previous times I have replaced the original filter with a Samsung brand filter.\nI do not have the ability to test for chemicals in the output water; taste at this point is good.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1374, "id": 62151, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 190, "len_tokens": 228, "text": "The hood looks nice and initially worked well. We are pleased with the 6 suction levels, and 2 lights. However, the company has to do better on the quality of the parts. Much better. First, the A couple of weeks after installation the lights and suction shut off. After 6 weeks of phone calls and waiting, the company sent a tech to replace the faulted electric board. Second, recently the one of the two lights (halogen lights) got loose and hangs off the horizontal plate.  Now we are trying to have someone coming to fix that. I expect they will do it because we are still within the warranty time. But I wonder what else will happen after the warranty expires.\nUpdate: after some waiting, they sent two new bulbs at no cost. They were easy to install. Since then, the hood works very well. It is efficient and sleek. The 6 speeds makes it very practical. I am frying and grilling in my open kitchen and do not get smoke or odors in the rest of the house. I would up the rating to a 3 to 4 stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1375, "id": 53285, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 190, "len_tokens": 228, "text": "The hood looks nice and initially worked well. We are pleased with the 6 suction levels, and 2 lights. However, the company has to do better on the quality of the parts. Much better. First, the A couple of weeks after installation the lights and suction shut off. After 6 weeks of phone calls and waiting, the company sent a tech to replace the faulted electric board. Second, recently the one of the two lights (halogen lights) got loose and hangs off the horizontal plate.  Now we are trying to have someone coming to fix that. I expect they will do it because we are still within the warranty time. But I wonder what else will happen after the warranty expires.\nUpdate: after some waiting, they sent two new bulbs at no cost. They were easy to install. Since then, the hood works very well. It is efficient and sleek. The 6 speeds makes it very practical. I am frying and grilling in my open kitchen and do not get smoke or odors in the rest of the house. I would up the rating to a 3 to 4 stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1376, "id": 315248, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 190, "len_tokens": 243, "text": "I give this one star because it won't let me go lower. This is a knock-off piece of junk. I just now wrote a check for $92.40 to a refrigerator repairman to figure out why my water dispenser totally stopped working....you guessed it.....right after I installed this \"filter.\" There is a little black gasket/seal just below the part that plugs into the refrigerator. Only it isn't attached and when you \"plug in\" the filter it really doesn't plug in. SO....I found a reliable repairman, made an appointment, did without the water dispenser, took time off from work (which inconvenienced a lot of other people) to meet the repairman at the house. It took him 16 minutes to diagnose and show me the problem. Now, I am going back to work, but I will have to leave early to go by the reputable local parts store where I will purchase an actual working filter. Obviously, I am not going to pay postage to return this faulty filter. It's a design defect. Re-read this last sentence please. It is a design defect. It doesn't work. Never would work. It's not a secret.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1377, "id": 2985, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 166, "len_tokens": 209, "text": "First, it's a really great idea.\n\nBut it fails on assembly where they link the round sheet metal to the flat sheet metal.  It's not quite spot welds and not quite crimped together.  It's sort of crimped together.  Very little pressure will separate the rings from the metal housing.\n\nIt's easily fixed with a few rivets but it's a cheap, half-arsed design.\n\nThey were nice enough to put a sticker on to say which side goes to the dryer output.  Which is VERY odd since this thing is actually two halves of the same piece slid together.  Maybe they think that because air is flowing in a certain direction it won't escape out the gaps in the metal.  Realistically, once this thing is connected you should use foil tape to cover the gap at the slip joint.\n\nSo you'll need this, clamps, foil tape, and a delicate touch.  I ended up using flexible hose and accepted that the dryer would be 6 inches from the wall.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1378, "id": 239395, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 213, "len_tokens": 233, "text": "I received the bearing kit promptly and intact. All items were protected in individual heavy duty envelopes within the box.  After reading many reviews and comments I decided to pass on buying the ridiculously overpriced installation tool ($100 for a minute of use is insane for a homeowner to pay for a one-time use) and go another route. I cleaned out the areas where the bearings go very thoroughly and greased the outside of the bearings before installing them. I placed the old bearing on top of the new bearing to give myself something to hammer them in with.. I took my time and used less force and more hits to gently drive the bearings in. I then put my finger through the bearings to feel if there were any gaps between the bearings and the housing. When I was sure that they were fully seated I continued the rest of the reassembly. When I put the shifter in I manually spun it and found that there was no binding or rubbing. After final assembly I let the glue dry overnight according to instructions. The next day I ran a light load of clothes to try it out and the machine ran as expected and was super quiet again during the spin cycles.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1379, "id": 181292, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 218, "len_tokens": 279, "text": "i spent 2 weeks researching portable mini washing machines & decided on this & am SO glad i got the Panda washer & spin dryer as separate units. buying them individually means that i can use them simultaneously, that it's lighter to move around--10 to 13 pounds each; that less space is taken up in the bathtub where i place the washer on 2 of those little plastic, foldable step stools and that i won't lose both units if 1 of them goes out. i live in an apartment & HATE the washers in the laundryroom. NOW, i can wash clothes on MY time, ANY time, as often as i want, rinse as much as i want and NO MORE QUARTERS (except for the 50 i use in the laundryroom dryers). 25 years ago i bought an Avanti portable (plastic) washer for about $45; now, they're $400 each; including shipiing, my Panda washer & spin dryer cost exactly $200. The Avanti was quite loud with a big grinding noise--so much so that my downstairs neighbor asked me about the big noise. The Panda is SO quiet, i'm amazed. Quiet is very important to me. The Spin Dryer is even quieter. I'm so please with The Panda that i'm buying the washer & dryer (separately) for a friend.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1380, "id": 371933, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 229, "len_tokens": 272, "text": "Arrived slightly dented, looks like something heavy hit the box during transportation. Nevertheless, works great. No leaks after I tightened hoses a little. If you want to connect it to faucet, you should connect the adapter to the faucet first. In order to do that, your faucet should have special threads either on the inside or outside. If you have aerator installed, you should detach it and install the adapter instead. It is not great aerator, water easily splashes all around when you use it not with dishwasher.\n\nConnection is easy, instruction is pretty clear, it cleans dishes very well. I had some problems with tables - at some points they were not dissolving fully. Cleaning up the mess is, well, messy. I switched to gel and moved cutlery basket slightly inside the dishwasher (so the detergent dispenser cannot even touch it) and have not had any problems afterwards.\n\n10\" plates fit in easily, but you have to read instruction first - they won't fit on nearest racks, you should use the racks near the far side - they're slightly lower. Small size of the dishwasher also implies that you cannot fit a lot of pans or pots here, and it's an adventure to fit everything you want to. Say, big tall glasses will take a lot of space, and big glass baking pan will take the entire space.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1381, "id": 368078, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 195, "len_tokens": 245, "text": "I was sticker-shocked with the price of the name brand filter for our refrigerator.  Plus, it was to be changed twice a year!  Money doesn't grow on trees and $50 a filter was must more than we could even squeeze into the budget .... like most people these days.  So, before I took the plunge to purchase \"generic,\" I turned to my group of \"experts\"... Facebook friends!  They'll tell it like it is!  I had probaby 12 to 15 responses and all but one said, \"Go with the compatiable one.\"  I read the reviews of several filters which are compatiable with our refrigerator and settled on the one from Pure Line.  The price was great and I appreciated the reviews I read.  To help me install the Pure Line, I compared were the little mark on the name-brand was located and easily inserted the new filter.  No problems thus far!  The name brand lasted 5 months before the light came on.  I am anxious to see how this one compares.  And, to make sure I don't forget about it, Pure Line gives you a small magnet to date when you installed your filter!  :)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1382, "id": 35421, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 238, "len_tokens": 278, "text": "I recently moved in to an old house with old Jenn Air appliances and kitchen sink.  One of the biggest pet peeves of mine is that this little flap that keeps food from splashing into your face when you turn on the disposal was so worn out that it fell into the disposal just about every time that you turned the disposal on.  Finally fed up, I began trying to find a replacement part but apparently Jenn Air no longer makes it which left me scrambling trying to find one that would be a good fit for my big kitchen sink.  After doing some research and reading the reviews, I finally chose this InSink Erator QCB-AM AntiMicrobial Quiet Collar Sink Baffle and then  ordered it from Amazon.  When it arrived I was actually excited (you would be too if yucky food had repeatedly splashed up in your face when the disposal went on) to try it to see if it fit and how well as well as if it really did quiet my monster loud disposal.  Well......Woohoo!!  I literally just dropped it into place and it fit PERFECTLY with no modifications needed and my extremely loud disposal noise was reduced by a good 60%.  I am thrilled with this new little gadget for my sink and if you are also in need of one this size then I would highly recommend that you give this one a try!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1383, "id": 468294, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 195, "len_tokens": 234, "text": "A little challenging to install, but the control over system speed is amazing. Much quieter whole-house-fan operation and smooth transition between speeds means home occupants don't even know it's running.\n\nIt can be set up to run at a constant low speed even when no fan signal is supplied, which is great for equalizing temperatures throughout the house without having to run the fan at 100%. I suspect I'll see energy savings as well.\n\nThis is very challenging to install for a homeowner without prior HVAC experience, but you should be able to do it if you are good at figuring things out.\n\nIt's helpful to attack with a basic understanding of furnace blower technology - there are two voltages supplied, full 110v to the motor windings and a 24VAC circuit supplied to the fan control. When a 24V circuit is applied to one of the signal wires, the fan will spin. Several wires are provided, each of which will spin the fan at a different speed. You can wire up your system to spin at a lower speed for fan control, or a higher speed for furnace, humidifier or AC control. It's pretty neat.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1384, "id": 285754, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 194, "len_tokens": 250, "text": "It worked reasonably well for almost a month, cleaning about 4 out of 5 loads spotlessly.  Then one day it just wouldn't turn on.  No power, no lights, no button responses.  Reset breaker, checked for live power, redid junction box connections, still dead.  Would not touch Electrolux with a 10 foot pole at this point.  I should have gone with Bosch.\n\nEDIT: So you didn't think my review was helpful?  Let me elaborate then:\n\nAfter the first time it broke, they came to replace the control board.  It then worked for 1 week, then broke again with the same symptoms. So they replaced the control board AGAIN, this time also replacing the whole touch panel too.  THIS time it seems to be working, but it could because I'm no longer using the heated dry option, which I suspect overheats and destroys their garbage control board stuffed into the back of the unnit.\n\nDid I mention it took WEEKS to schedule warranty service it between each incident?  I had to buy a $200 countertop dishwasher in the meanintime which never broke down.  If you buy this brand after reading this, you must be a fool.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1385, "id": 251554, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 188, "len_tokens": 216, "text": "Did not know for sure what was wrong with my very old front loading frigidaire washing machine, it started making lots of banging noise and moving. I started with the shock absorbers hoping this would fix. Needed help to move the machine away from the wall and watched a few different videos on youtube.com on how to change out. I'm a 61 yr old grandma and it was doable, except for moving the machine around. My cousin put it on a carpeted furniture dolly for me that helped a great deal. You can get a cheap dolly with wheels at a hardware store like lower or home depot. Well the next day after I changed out the parts we put the machine back and the baby purred like new. Was positive the old pins would not fit but they did. The old shock absorbers fell apart when removed. I'm so proud of myself. Two years ago I changed out the drain pump when the washer would not spin leaving the clothes soaked. These fixes only require a few tools and youtube will show you how to do it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1386, "id": 508707, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 206, "len_tokens": 253, "text": "The Kenmore repair parts list which I have had for my washer since I bought it, calls out the P/N 5303207418 for the cold/hot solenoid fill valve. This part that I was shipped is NOT a replacement part for 5303207418 as the description clearly states. The mount bracket is not at all the same. I had to cut the included bracket with a metal blade on an angle grinder, then get different mount bracket screws for the screws for the Kenmore bracket would not work on the replacement bracket.\n\nI would not have gone to this trouble at all had it not been for the fact that my washer and dryer are stacked. I had to use another person to lift the dryer off with me. It was then that I discovered the above problem. I really had no choice but to modify it to fit.\n\nUnless you are very mechanically adept and have a lot of extra time with which you do not know what to occupy it with, this is definitely a BAD replacement choice for the Kenmore!\n\nThe correct one (I now know) is PART # 134190200 OR AP3363282 GENUINE FACTORY OEM ORIGINAL CLOTHES WASHER WATER INLET VALVE listed on the amazon.com site.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1387, "id": 454513, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 242, "len_tokens": 271, "text": "We have a very small galley type kitchen with no window so ventilation is an issue. Cooking well done burgers in a fry pan can cause a little smoke and since there is nowhere for it to go, I figured this hood will help out there. We are using it ductless with a charcoal type filter and it's working great. Another huge benefit to this is the light. I put a 40 watt bulb in and if you put the switch in the first position you get the full 40 watts. If you click again, it decreases the brightness. That's a nice additional feature.\n\nI chose this model over others because it has an infinite fan speed control. Rather than a two speed, low or high setting, this one has a dial that you can move and as you go up, the speed gets faster. It can be somewhat loud on the highest speed. I don't see us ever using that one though. The middle speed has some noise but not bad at all. Just make sure if you are using this ductless to remove the tab on the front to let the airflow come through.\n\nOne other thing that I did not know: This unit and most others do NOT come with a plug that you put into an outlet. There are three wires and it is assumed that it will be connected directly to the electrical system in the home.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1388, "id": 83105, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 189, "len_tokens": 217, "text": "I purchased this item, a replacement lint trap for my dryer. I compared the part number stamped on the lint trap currently being used on my dryer. The part number was exactly the same except for the colour indicator. I ordered the part which was $13 and a $5 shipping charge. The part I received wasn't exactly the correct one. I contacted the seller who told me to return it, and they would refund the cost of the part but not the freight. Basically I should spent a total of $10 to return a $13 item. The seller has a good thing going, they can make money just from the shipping. They send the incorrect item, you return it and pay for the shipping both ways. They then resell the item again and again, and again. It wasn't just that the freight was not to be refunded, it was the attitude. You have no way to pick up a telephone and ask questions, to speak to someone. What are they afraid of?\n\nI would tell everyone to forget this seller exists and find the product elsewhere as I will.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1389, "id": 63509, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 176, "len_tokens": 236, "text": "After 2 years of a new leaking Maytag Centennial, I decided that ditching the $600 leaker was worth my peace of mind.  After 40 years of Sears loyalty, I decided never do business with them again!  The Centennial leaked intermittently and I was told there was nothing wrong with it - it was the design of the machine!! Service threatened to charge for a call although under warranty because repair people could find nothing wrong.\n\nMy new Amana is wonderful!  After being very anxious after my previous experience, I can say nothing bad about this washer.  It cleans - WOW!  It doesn't leak onto the floor - WOW!  It is SOOO QUIET - WOW! It isn't overpriced liked most front loaders (or for that matter, most machines) - WOW! It is kind of like the olden days when you bought a washer and it didn't have problems - WOW!\n\nMAY 2010 UPDATE:  ALMOST A YEAR LATER AND THIS WASHER STILL WORKS FLAWLESSLY!\n  Cleans wonderfully, clothes dry very quickly, and my water\n  bill bill has gone down.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1390, "id": 264931, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 168, "len_tokens": 221, "text": "I've had this kegerator for a bit over 2 months now and really enjoy it. It fits a standard 1/2 keg perfectly (with some room for a few bottles/cans), keeps it cold, and is easy to clean. Set up was not difficult at all, thanks to the included instructions. However, I have two minor issues which prevent me from giving it 5 stars (I'd give it 4.5 if it was an option):\n\n1) It comes with an empty 5lb CO2 tank. In NYC it is hard to find a place that will do an exchange for a 5lb tank, so I ended up having to spend a lot of money on a 10lb tank.\n2) The tubing from keg to the faucet is shorter than ideal, which can lead to excess foam. Replacing it with a longer tube (if you find it necessary) is easy and cheap, so it's not a big deal.\n\nBeyond those two very minor issues, it is an excellent purchase, definitely a 4.5/5.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1391, "id": 235469, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 156, "len_tokens": 259, "text": "Since the original part (AP3996921/2307048) for my refrigerator (Kitchenaid KSCS25FTMS02) wasn't available, I used this part to piece together a solution that got the job done. I tried just replacing the original part with this one, but the angles of the cam didn't work with the other half of the cam on the cabinet hinge. What did work was also replacing the bottom hinge cam with a part in the Whirlpool R0181181 Door Closure Kit (also on Amazon&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-R0181181-Door-Closure-Kit/dp/B00DZU9CTC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool R0181181 Door Closure Kit</a>). The bottom hinge cam didn't have the right sized hole, but a 3/8\" drill bit through the existing smaller hole worked perfectly. There may be other parts that work, but that combination got the job done since the correct part isn't available anywhere any more. I'm posting this for this review in case someone else out there is stuck like I was. Now the door closes like a dream.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1392, "id": 317313, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 177, "len_tokens": 206, "text": "We ordered this compact fridge to replace our old small one in our mater suite. This one is so well thought out with its inside storage options. We love all the door racks, especially the new can holder part (so much better than the old drop and stack rack) that will hold various can sizes. We presently have stocked it with many things, and there's still room. We love the bottom drawer for cheese and fruit.\n\nIt fits perfectly under the counter, and compliments our toaster oven, coffee maker, microwave (that we also bought at Amazon), and TV. Also, since it's in our master closet, not too far from our bed, we really appreciate how quiet it is. The glass shelves are a plus. Our old one had open wire racks, and items were constantly falling through the wires, and spills can easily be cleaned up without dripping through the lower racks.\n\nI couldn't be happier with this unit, and feel it's worth every bit the cost which we feel is a bargain for what we got.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1393, "id": 57757, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 240, "len_tokens": 285, "text": "I must admit I was skeptical that this would perform as well as the description on \"Product Features\" displayed here at Amazon.com.  Our dryer duct is over 30 feet long and I had taken it apart to clean on several occasions before. Getting all the lint out of even more than one 3 foot section at a time was a challenge as the lint seems to stick as though someone glued it in place. I ordered the Gardus R3203612 LintEater 12-Foot Extension Kit to go with the cleaning kit.  The extensions are the same as the rods that come with the kit and extend the reach an additional 12 feet.\nI placed the vacuum attachment on the end where the dryer would be connected and went outside to feed the  brush with the rod into the duct (per instructions) one rod at a time.  It seems to be a simple operation, with the adding each rod separately until the end is reached.  I my case, I had to finish by going into the house to clean the last 6-8 feet from inside as the 24 length was still not long enough to reach the end.  The vacuum attachment has a port for the rods in that scenario, also.\nUpon looking down the duct with a flashlight, it looked surprisingly clean.  I would recommend this item, especially if the lint build up in your dryer vent is difficult to clean out.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1394, "id": 449500, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 214, "len_tokens": 242, "text": "I absolutely love this nostalgic beverage fridge for its design, but the location of switches can be an inconvenience. The lights do not automatically turn on when you open the fridge, but there is a switch on the back inside the lower of two holes. Each of the two holes has a grommet to prevent being cut by the sharp edges of the hole. The upper hole is for access to the temperature settings and lower hole is for access to the light switch. If the fridge is sitting on the floor as mine is, I have to slide the unit around so I can actually reach the holes (on the same side as the door hinge). I do not consider than a negative, but I can see where some folks would.  The temperature comes set on 3 of 5, so I left it there and it keeps the filled fridge icy cold. With the lights on, it is stunning and gets many compliments.  I would think that the locking capability would come in handy if you stored alcoholic beverages in there. So in the decision between nostalgia and convenience, I chose nostalgia.  I have used it daily since I purchased it in early Dec 2016, and I am happy with my decision.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1395, "id": 512632, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 191, "len_tokens": 234, "text": "Updated  1/4/18 It appears Best Air has changed the wick material, as compared to those we have purchased in the past.  To extend life we turn the wick every time we fill the water container.  The present generation draw the water very well but the material is very fragile.  Just touching it when you lift the wick to turn it over causes the material to fall apart - like wet toilet paper.  NOTE WE do not recommend you touch the wick material after original installation.  DO NOT plan on turning this wick.  If there is reliable wick out there priced reasonably, I haven't found it at this time.  There is a definite need for a long life low cost wick.  This wick does have a built in metal center support which helps to keep the shape of the wick. But if you can't turn the wick it appears the additional structural metal center piece is a negative because of the very thin paper wick material falling from the center support.  If you don't plan on turning the wick or paying for the extra manufacturing cost of the center support two stars.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1396, "id": 221516, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 169, "len_tokens": 211, "text": "I'm happy to report that I did indeed receive an authentic OEM Whirlpool heating element, just as described and pictured.  Yes, it had the stamped  FSP mark on it (\"An abbreviation for Factory Specification Parts. Used by Whirlpool to differentiate genuine factory replacement parts from those of after market or universal replacement parts.\")  There are a number of off-brand knock-offs available elsewhere on Amazon, most at significantly lower prices, so make sure you know what you're getting.  If you're getting a knock-off from THIS listing, you didn't get the right part.\n\nThe element was identical to the one taken from my Kenmore dryer (well, except this one did not have the open coil that caused the failure, of course!).  The whole replacement process could not have been easier -- check YouTube for any of several very helpful videos on the procedure.  Most of the work was in the guilty and long-overdue lint cleanup.  The dryer is back in operation after minimal downtime, thanks to Amazon Prime 1-day shipping.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1397, "id": 518214, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 183, "len_tokens": 220, "text": "WARNING! Stay away from Electrolux. We have had nothing but problems with all of our appliances. We made the big mistake three years ago of buying all new electrolux appliances for our kitchen and we have had nothing but problems just like most of the other reviewers around the internet.\n\nWhile this review is only on the dishwasher, we have experienced problems with our Electrolux fridge, stove, oven, compactor and hood vent.\n\nThis last week our dishwasher made several pop sounds, then our kitchen filled with the smell of electronics burning and then the dishwasher went dead. Only lasted 3 years :(\n\nElectrolux repair and service is a nightmare to deal with, so we just decided to purchase a Bosch to replace it with. The plan it to start replacing all electrolux appliances with another brand and never again will I buy electrolux. Lifetime ban, and I've made sure to tell as many people as possible about our bad experience.\n\nSave yourself time and money and avoid this brand. Also be careful to research other brands as Electrolux also makes some Kenmore appliances.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1398, "id": 26197, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 209, "len_tokens": 256, "text": "These feel like really well constructed hoses, and they are long and plenty flexible for any reasonble gap behind a washer. They have really nice, thick, rubber washers, and I didn't have any issues or leaks, and as I removed my old rubber hoses, I noticed one was completely missing the rubber washer - it had rotted away, and the metal itself was starting to corrode in 2 places, and I would think it was a good candidate to start leaking in a major way.\n\nOne criticism, and I'm not sure if will matter to some - I had just replaced my mixing valve, and it was corroded and jammed with sediment. So when I replaced it, the water flow was tremendously improved - it could really fill fast, hot, cold, or mixed. But when I replaced the old rubber hoses with these braided ones a couple of weeks later, the water flow rate dropped noticeably. I didn't notice any restrictors in the ends, so I'm guessing the inside diamter is just smaller than the old ones.\n\nIt's not a a deal breaker, and if I hadn't just replaced my mixing valves, I probably wouldn't have noticed, but if you're super focuses on flow rate, I'd try another type.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1399, "id": 345550, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 188, "len_tokens": 217, "text": "Leaked everywhere.  Had to get a refrigerator repair man out only to find out that the problem was the filter that I purchased months ago so I could not return it.  I bought another filter directly from kitchen aid (which is not typical for me - I love amazon and amazon pricing) and the leaking stopped almost immediately.  The filter that I received from kitchen aid is the exact same filter with the exact same part number but the label looks very different.  I worry that this one was not the real deal.  Maybe a knock of, maybe an older version, maybe stay away from the seller of this one.  I can not say for sure but if you want the base boards around your fridge not to rot then think twice about buying these 3rd party.  If I could've put less than 1 start then I'm would have.  It is hard to see the water in the pic that I uploaded but trust me it had ran down my entire kitchen when I got back from being out of town.  Very disappointed not knowing who to trust.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1400, "id": 434801, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 222, "len_tokens": 260, "text": "The unit works great! It has ample power to clear the room of smoke rapidly, but isn't as loud as I would have expected at maximum. Using the lowest fan speed makes minimal noise and is adequate to maintain clean and clear room air for most cooking, although the other night we did some high heat stir fry in a wok that requires bumping up to the second fan. Im pleasantly pleased with how easy it is to remove the panels and clean the drip tray, as I was originally eyeballing other brands and models that use a water cleaning system. With this unit, you just pop the panels and tray in the dishwasher and removal/reinstallation is quick and painless.\n\nOne small complaint: the touch control for the light and fan are a bit finnicky. You get used to them, but they aren't as responsive you might expect. Also, if you power-off the unit, it turns off the fans after a 60-second cool down, but this also turns off the light. I wish the light didn't get automatically turned off after the cool down as well, but its not a big deal.\n\nOverall, Im very pleased with the product, and I feel like we got a LOT more brawny unit than one would typically get for the price at a box store.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1401, "id": 490747, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 212, "len_tokens": 255, "text": "My LG 4801CW machine recently failed in the middle of a load. The circuit was tripped and the machine would no longer power on.  I did some research and it looked like either the (noise) filter assembly or control board failed.  So I took out a multimeter and tested it.\n\nThere was power coming into the filter assembly through the yellow and white plugs but no power was leaving through the red and blue plugs (it read around 10 volts and should have been around 110).  So with this I knew the filter assembly was bad.\n\nI jumped the power across the yellow and white wires to the board and the board started to smoke so I know that was bad too.  I'm not sure which one failed first, but I did know both were bad so I ordered the \"6201EC2002J Washing Machine Filter Assembly\" and the \"6201EC2002J Washing Machine Filter Assembly\", swapped them out with the bad parts, and reassembled the machine.\n\nIt powered up right away and has been working well for a couple of days now.  Great replacement parts and it saved me a ton of money when my two options were to buy a new machine or call a repair guy out to do the same work.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1402, "id": 444251, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 190, "len_tokens": 260, "text": "After reading all the various review, both good and bad, I decided to purchase this beverage cooler to replace an aging soda machine on its last legs.  The cooler arrived in excellent shape.  No dings, bangs, or gouges in the box at all.  As noted by other reviewers, the box was double walled, with the beverage cooler in it's own box (protected by a layer of styrofoam), and an outer box separated by styrofoam spacers as well.  When I unboxed the cooler itself, it was in pristine condition.  No scrapers or anything.  So, so far so good.  I got it set up, and turned on, and it's very quiet.  So quiet, it's right around the corner from our couches in the t.v. room, and we can't hear it.  I put a digital fridge thermometer in it, and slowly adjusted the dial downwards after waiting the 30 minutes the instructions said to wait on the initial setting.  At about setting 6, it's a fairly steady 34-35 degrees.  The soda is nice and cold (so my wife says, as I don't drink soda).  All in all, this was a great purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1403, "id": 456255, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 196, "len_tokens": 244, "text": "I purchased this machine on a 'black friday' sale after Thanksgiving from home depot & quickly learned what a mistake I made.  The agitator is 1/2 the normal size & has corners on it that snag all your clothes, no matter the setting (I loaded the machine according to the instruction manual).  Besides the agitator making tears in your clothes, it also twists up all long sleeved jerseys or jeans (I wash them separate from each other, but whatever you're washing, sheets, jeans or shirts it will twist up & stretch out all loads equally).  On top of that, even when loading correctly & not over filling... it will sometimes become imbalanced - no matter the setting.  When this happens, the machine will continue its cycle, banging loudly because it does not have an auto shut off like every other machine in history.  So don't go out & leave the washer going, who knows what would happen if it continues without your intervention.  Lastly, the machine instructions tell you not to use regular detergent, so you're forced to purchase High Efficiency detergents, which are more expensive.  DO NOT BUY THIS MACHINE, YOU'LL REGRET IT!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1404, "id": 200726, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 167, "len_tokens": 209, "text": "EUREKA! I found the problem.\n\nAs many have stated here the Whirlpool Kenmore and God knows what other rebadge have a problem.\n\nI was ready to replace yet another, 3rd to be precise, rack adjuster, when I started studying the\nwhole contraption and noted that the adjusters are NOT IN THE MIDDLE. Instead, they lay at the border\nbetween the mid and rear third of the tray, so they can make room for the glass stem holder on one side.\nOf course there will tremendous force on the wheel hubs as the closed rail now acts as a lever, remember Archimedes?\n\nSo I threw the glass stem holder in the trash and transplanted both adjusters to the middle. They love it over\nthere, the whole tray has been sliding with great ease now for 3 months, fingers crossed.\n\nSorry for delay, I wanted to make sure it worked.\n\nMy next idea will be to install total of 4 roller assemblies, that is if it breaks down again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1405, "id": 182641, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 205, "len_tokens": 258, "text": "We purchase our Whirlpool Cabrio washer and dryer November 2011.  The washer is a top loader.  When they were delivered to our home the delivery man told us these washing machines always go out in three years time.  I was hoping it would at least last five years or more, but it did not.  December 2014 it started making a loud squeaking noise while washing and when the spin cycle came on it made an atrocious loud noise.  The warranty had run out so we called a reputable appliance repair company that we have used before and he set the machine to run to listen to it.  It turned out that it was the bearings and would need a new tub, which was going to cost us $658.00.  I told him that in the long run we'd be better off and it would be cheaper to just buy a new washer/dryer set and he agreed.  He, also, said the washing machines with the agitators are better and last much longer.  Before we purchased this Cabrio washer/dryer set, we had a Whirlpool washer/dryer set that lasted over ten years and I think we will be going back to these models where the washer has an agitator.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1406, "id": 111790, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 155, "len_tokens": 209, "text": "We bought this washer and within two years it was making a \"freight train\" sound with each spin cycle.  Called Home Depot and Maytag.  They both said machine is just loud.  Funny how it wasn't loud in the beginning.  The noise got so bad we couldn't be on the phone or watching TV while washing clothes.  CRAZY!  Finally after three years, in the middle of a spin cycle, it made knocking sounds and came to a halt, dead.  I hadn't purchased the extended warranty because I thought Maytag was a quality product and would last at least 7+ years.  WRONG.  I just bought a new LG washer.  Will never purchase Maytag again.  For those of you who are just experiencing loud spinning, call Maytag and don't fall for the \"they are just loud\" mess.  Obviously we didn't walk into Home Depot and say \"we would like your loudest machine please\".  DUH.  Very disappointed in Maytag.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1407, "id": 431042, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 182, "len_tokens": 209, "text": "It worked fine while it worked for ice making. It started malfunctioning at 11 months of owning it by not stopping the production of ice (sensor probably broke) and the motors that move the tray inside the machine broke at 1 year of owning it. It didn't feel like it was worth the money that was paid for it. Especially because aside from breaking down, it never kept ice cold and never held enough ice. The ice dispenser also jammed very frequently.\n\nThe tubing inside the machine is filled with plastic dust that I was never able to clear out of it, no matter how hard I tried. This made the water dispenser dispense disgusting plastic tasting water. On top of that, the inside of the water tank started growing some sort of pink bacteria which then started making all of the water dispensed have flakes of the bacteria in it. I'm sure the ice had it too, but I couldn't tell.\n\nOverall I'm very dissatisfied with the build quality of the machine and would not buy anything from this company again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1408, "id": 325816, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 168, "len_tokens": 205, "text": "Love this fan.  I bought this to replace an over-the stove microwave/fan that did not do anything at all and eventually it stopped working after all the grease accumulated on it, so I refused to spend another $400 on buying another microwave/fan that would break after a few year and does not even do the job.  After returning a previous one because the vent was too wide (8\"), this one did the trick because the exhaust was 6\" and it could be adjusted to 4 which is more of a normal range (4-6) for a house fan.  Is not that noisy, I would say is normal, even on the 2nd setting and I rarely need to use the 3rd setting because is powerful enough.  Love the fact that I can leave it on the timer and walk away to have dinner after cooking and then it will turn off itself after 5 minutes or so.  The 2 light settings are nice as well.  Very pleased with the purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1409, "id": 346577, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 175, "len_tokens": 213, "text": "First things first:  Knobs that are for use on a kitchen range shouldn't use a plastic that will soften and deform when exposed to the temperatures they'll encounter on the front of a range, such as when the oven door is open while you baste a turkey.  These aren't made of high-temp plastic, so they do just that.\nSecondly, the metallic rings that have the settings printed on them don't stick down on the knob worth a darn.  The adhesive isn't up to it, and the shape of the ring doesn't match the shape of the knob very well, so they want to pop off almost immediately.\nThirdly, the inserts need to be glued into the knobs, or they won't stay, and I had to do some filing inside the shaft hole to even get them to fit an ordinary Kenmore's controls.\n\nBottom line is, I wasted my money, and my time, and ended up going out and buying the more expensive, 'original equipment' type knobs I should have paid for in the first place.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1410, "id": 396445, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 197, "len_tokens": 227, "text": "My boss had purchased an ice machine for his office and I though it was a great idea so I purchased one as well about a year ago.  It died a short time ago so I bought this one. Then the one my boss had died as well.  It was an Igloo brand.  I hope a year is not the average life span of these ice makers.  I like the style of this one better than the last one because of the larger acrylic window on top.  You can see what stage the ice is in. But this machine is more noisy than my last ice machine.  It makes ice quickly.  I generally only use it if I have having company or to fill the ice bucket in my freezer, but I don't run this machine 24/7.  If you are a light sleeper and have a small home you will need to turn it off at night or the dropping ice will wake you up. The full bucket of ice will gradually melt back into the water reservoir for the cycle to begin again.  If you don't have an ice maker in your refrigerator, these are great.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1411, "id": 68763, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 187, "len_tokens": 208, "text": "So far this product has been great. It holds a bit less than my last 3.5 cu ft freezer but it runs nicely. It is quiet and the only sound it makes is a click when the compressor or whatever turns on but other than that it's quiet and you don't even hear it running. It does put out quite a bit of heat though so take that into consideration for where to place it. I was able to fit it into my tiny kitchen even with a table in there. We just received our electric bill and this freezer doesn't seem to have had any noticeable affect on it at all, so hurray for that! I purchased a similar one (Emerson) back in May from another store because it was cheaper but it turned out it was noisy when the compressor came on and noisy while it was cooling, noisy when the compressor went off and then it broke down two weeks after I purchased it and all my food spoiled. This one cost about $30 more but so far it was well worth every penny.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1412, "id": 55932, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 209, "len_tokens": 278, "text": "We are a family of four living in Houston, TX. We have now 18 months  experience with these filters. We use about 2 gallons a day from the refridgerator on average. The filter has been changed each time the water flow is low. That means that it is possible to use the filter for a longer time, but where you'll have to wait for considerable time due to low flow rate.\n\nBelow is a description of the cycles with change dates:\nJanuary 23, 2012\nDecember 2,2012\nOctober 12, 2012\nAugust 12, 2012\nApril 26, 2012\nJanuary 30, 2012\nOctober 23, 2011\nAugust 13, 2011\n\nIf you include the vacation time where the water filter has not been in use, the average living time is about 60 days. Let us say that we are adding one gallon of water use to be on the safe side, ie. 3 gallons a day .The the filter will last about 200 gallons.\n\nIt can be something with the water in Houston that contains a high degree of impurities.\n\nHowever, the filter is giving good quality on the water which is the main issue. However, it is at a higher price than what you is lead to believe when reading the product description.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1413, "id": 209078, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 195, "len_tokens": 228, "text": "I too had the same problems as others. I thought the cookware came with it - and now instead of paying $29.95 they want $69,95 - their on line service should be a lot more clearer. Their customer service via email - takes forever for someone to get back to you - the best thing to do is call - I will have to give them credit for changing my address for me, but I think they should honor their prices if we make a mistake in ordering their product. Their first question on their list is, why did my cookware not arrive with my cooktop? What does that say about this company? I do love the cooktop, but found out you can't use all cookware with the cooktop, which is my fault. They need to redo their website to be clearer when ordering - to make sure we know that the cookware doesn't come with the cooktop, you must check the box to get it - too late for me, but maybe my comment will help others. I would of gave it five stars if they would give me my cookware for $29.95!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1414, "id": 452417, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 176, "len_tokens": 222, "text": "This is our third Rival Cool Touch Deep Fryer.  Our first one we had for several years.  After awhile, it just became so dirty, we couldn't keep it looking decent.  We had our second one for a couple of years and it was starting to look a little grimy.  Then my daughter almost dropped it.  Luckily the oil was cold.  But, in the process of saving the fryer from falling, she some how knocked the control panel into the oil.  I started looking for another Cool Touch Fryer.  This model is becoming hard to find.  This one is almost exactly like the first two we had.  Slight change in the control panel and the basket is a little lighter weight.  We've used it about 4 times in the month we've had it.  Works just like our previous two.  We love how we can close the lid while deep frying.  No grease splatters or worries about a grease fire.  We loved our first two and this one looks like it will be three winners in a row.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1415, "id": 128713, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 140, "len_tokens": 254, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R3UEXPWE957IPA\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/C169Pnz%2BORS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81-nXoCC83S.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;Happy Customer right here! I detest doing dishes and my apartment doesn't come with a dishwasher. This has seriously made my life so much easier, as I live with my almost 4 year old son. My dishes used to pile up because I hated having to hand wash them. I'd rather scrub my toilet daily than do dishes. Twenty years of food service will do that to you. The attachment was included for my faucet head. I installed it myself and have had 0 problems thus far.\n\nI am BEYOND pleased with my purchase.\n\nI did add rinse agent prior to use and use the Cascade Platinum Packs and my dishes come out spotless!\n\nIf you are like me and HATE dishes, you should really buy this!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1416, "id": 261, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 209, "len_tokens": 243, "text": "We were getting bad smells in the laundry room.  Things that I thought:\nMildew from front load washer - we leave it open\ngas from sewer line - liquid fired the drain\ndead mouse in dryer vent - bought a vent that seals and prevents bugs and cold air\ngas coming from septic outside and coming in dryer vent - got this product\n\nThis lets me vent the warm hot air from the dryer into the house.  Our laundry is on the second floor and opens into a large part of the home/stairwell.  So I am not worried at all about too much moisture and mildew but if you were in a tight place this might be and issue.\n\nPros: Works with modification.  I took some painter's tape and sealed the cracks and gaps this unit has.\n\nCons:\nLever is on the wrong side for our layout.  Sort of a pain but since I'll only switch once or twice a year not a big deal.\nFilter is worthless - I put on one of my wifes nylon tube socks and this does the trick perfectly - (NOTE you will have to clean out the sock to keep the dryer drying)\n\nWith my mods I am pleased with this purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1417, "id": 503086, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 232, "len_tokens": 256, "text": "We first ordered a door gasket to replace in our dishwasher where the picture showed a notch out of the middle of it. It was the right part number, but ours we took out was solid without a notch. When we tried it the door still leaked, but our spray arm also had a melted spot on it that was spraying right at the door and we weren't sure if the problem was the spray arm or because the notch was in the gasket. We ordered again getting this one, because the picture shown matched ours having no notch in the middle. When it arrived, it was the same part with the notch again. I read other's reviews again and tried the tips to replace the spray arm AND not to use the dishwasher for several hours after putting in the gasket so it could form a seal. My husband was skeptical about the notch and thought it would let water through again, but we tried it and installed the parts in the evening and let the dishwasher sit with the door kept closed overnight. We ran it the next day and no leaks! I think it's been a month now and all is working well still. So, if your spray arm is also needing replacement do that, and try letting the door sit closed overnight for the gasket to work properly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1418, "id": 176843, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 259, "len_tokens": 295, "text": "Excellent replacement, It took about 45 minutes to replace which wasn't bad at all, part of the time was spent reviewing a couple of different DIY videos on YouTube finding one that was pretty close to the model refrigerator that we have. The hardest part as some other reviewers might have mentioned was reinstalling the water line. I found my self juggling three different unit parts at once as well as trying to reinstall the water line. (Enter the duct tape), and another pair of hands! On my particular model there wasn't wires that you could pull off from thee master control panel. What I found was a tape wire w/ four wire leads that was attached from the master control panel to the front face plate with no way to detach so you wouldn't have to have your front face plate dangling in front of the refridge and risk breaking the tape wire. That's where the duct tape came in handy. I was then able to reattach the master control panel to the refridge and had enough of an opening to slide the water hose into place and button everything up. I know it sounds a lot more complicated than it really is! But the great part about it is I saved myself  $165.00 for a service call for a $40.00 part I installed myself. There are some great videos to walk you thru the process. Take Your Time and review a couple of different videos if you have to. Its well worth it in the end. Cheers!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1419, "id": 261573, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 215, "len_tokens": 247, "text": "It looks really great in my kitchen. I got this to replace my over the range microwave to get an updated look. Ive received many compliments already. As others have said though, thie chimney part is very difficult to install if you have an existing exhaust pipe/duct stickkng out from yoir ceiling. The problem I had was my metal duct from thr ceiling is a few inches too far from the wall. This meant that I cant install the bracket for the top half of the chimeny to the wall, which is suppsed to hold it up in place. The. bottom half chimney is screwed on to the main hood from the back. So you have to attach the chimney before attaching the hood to the wall. I just ended up using strong adhesive to attach the top and bottom chimney together so it becomes one piece. I still haven't figure out how to secure the bottom half to the hood. Its kind of just sitting on top. I know this all sounds confusing, because you cant see what Im talking about. Just know it may be a difficult install if you have an existing duct. But if you can figure it out, its a really beautiful afdition to yoir kitchen for a good price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1420, "id": 564645, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 211, "len_tokens": 237, "text": "This washer has a tray in the bottom where it holds dirty water. If you are not using it twice a day, the water rots and your clothes come out smelling very disgusting. The manufacturer asks you to open a tube at the bottom and drain it like a colostomy bag to clean it. This is a real pain. Once it gets stinky, you have to drain it then run it repeatedly alternating bleach and vinegar. There is also a plastic covered slime ring around the door that can not be accessed or cleaned.  My wife hates this machine so much, I am having it hauled away to the dump this week. In addition, the washer door can't be made to open from the right so either you have the machine to the left of the dryer or you break your back moving the clothes from the washer to the dryer.\n\nThe dryer lost it's rear bearing the day after the warranty expired. When the lint screen is perfectly installed, the machine still pumps more lint out through the exhaust than it catches. I have to clean my vent pipe regularly to prevent a fire hazard.\n\nThese machines are so poorly designed, Samsung should be charged with fraud for selling them.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1421, "id": 458961, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 248, "len_tokens": 290, "text": "This refrigerator looks interesting, but be careful.\nWe bought a GE side-by-side refrigerator about five years ago. Since then we have had repeated problems with it, and had to call the GE repairman nine different times. The doors had to be replaced once. The ice maker was replaced four times, one time when it started breaking up and mixing shards of plastic with the ice. We could have been killed.\nThis last time the ice maker flooded the kitchen within two hours. We called GE for repairs and the repairman came several days later. He installed a new ice maker and said everthing was fine. He turned on the water and said \"All set to go.\" When we checked a few hours later, there was no ice, the kitchen was flooding, and sheets of water were coming down from the ceiling in our rec room. The GE repairman never turned the valve of the water line on completely, so it leaked far far worse than it ever had before. Knowing to turn water valves completely should be Repair 101. I called GE back at 3:15; the operator said she would e-mail an immediate request to the repair people in our area. A taped message contacted us some five days later. By that time we had bought a new, very different brand.\nI can understand a product having problems. But when the factory authorized repairmen make the problems far, far worse, that manufacturer should be put out of business.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1422, "id": 30345, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 215, "len_tokens": 287, "text": "This is the splashguard, baffle that fits Sinkmaster, Whirlaway, Waste King, and probably everything that uses the EZ-Mount system by Anaheim Mfg. Do not confuse this with the \"Universal-fits most disposals\" one that hardware stores sell. Those are 3 1/8 to 3 1/4\" in diameter, and they're too big. Won't fit. Looks the same but a little bigger, and it won't fit. This one will. It is exactly 3\" in diameter. If your old one is pretty worn out, you will be amazed at how much quieter it will be when you replace this simple, no-tools-necessary part. I only knocked off a star for the price. This would still be a very profitable item at half the price.\nMy disposal is a 1/3 hp BoneCrusher that I paid $23 for probably 12 years old.. We run it a couple times daily, but with really light loading.\nThe trick to disposal longevity and drawing a blank stare when someone asks if you know a good drain cleaner is to use this sequence for food disposal:  Turn on cold water in the disposal-side basin. Turn on disposal. Slowly add food to disposal, making sure plenty of water is going into disposal. About 10 seconds after you're done disposing, turn off disposal. Let water run another 10 seconds.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1423, "id": 481649, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 182, "len_tokens": 215, "text": "Since 2005 I have had to replace the membrane 4 times, each costing more than $300 to fix it. Mostly, source of the problem is the touch pad failure (Switch Membrane) to turn on the oven, once it failed to turn off the oven (scary), in this case I had to do emergency break the central circuit breaker. In some cases the control panel put out erroneous error messages. In short the product has poor reliability. Whirlpool probably knows this problem but does not bother to do simple engineering fix with more reliable electronic components or possibly improved heat shield/sinking with modest costs. I believe they have the resources to do it. Some off-shore brands seem to have more durable touch control pad. Go figure. My guess is the Company is relying on part replacement as their after sale market. Customers switching to other product barrier is very high because the range and oven is so expensive to replace. This business model stinks. I must say though the Kitchen Aid range using manual controller is very reliable. The culprit is the membrane.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1424, "id": 483619, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 212, "len_tokens": 259, "text": "I just got my freezer.  After doing much research I decided on the Avanti 2.1 cf Chest Freezer.  I almost bought the 1.3 freezer from another company but after reading complaints that stated the freezer unit was in the storage area which left little actual freezer unit.  It also would not seem to be worth the money to buy such a small freezer that can hold little.\n\nThis unit is  great and perfect for a small 660 sq. ft. apt.  It is The unit was well packed and had no dents upon arrival.  I plugged it in and it seems to be working.  Lights are on, the walls are cool.  The top door is better than the front door units as the design is more energy efficient.  I was able to clear out my fridge freezer that stored my frozen staples (chicken, beef, pork, veggies for the new freezer.  Now I can actually buy frozen foods that I can have more readily available when I don't feel like cooking or cook meals.\n\nI will write an update in a few months.\n\nDo your research before buying.  I found this unit cheaper priced on another website.  You can find it for the same price as here with shipping and no tax in nyc.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1425, "id": 265945, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 233, "len_tokens": 293, "text": "The first instructions I got for installing the WashIt told me I could install it myself. The instructions I finally got with the package recommended a professional install it. He was crabby about the product's \"Mickey Mouse\" construction, which I ignored because I was so excited about the prospect of simplifying my laundering processes and saving water (we're in California). However, big questions arose immediately about use that the enclosed booklet left completely unanswered: 1) there is no on/off switch, a very strange design flaw; 2) when the device remains on, it emits a high-pitched noise, painful to some but to me, sounds like the device is sizzling; 3) we have to unplug the device every time we use it. If the switch on the bottom side is meant to be an off/on button, it doesn't work; 4) there is no product-supplied cap for the hot water inside the unit; 5) I registered the product twice online since receiving it July 29 and had an automatic response to let me know there'd be an acknowledgment in 1-2 business days. Still waiting. The first few loads of laundry came clean, almost dry and absolutely wrinkle-free. That has already diminished, with this morning's load very wet and questionable, as far as clean goes. Not getting vital questions about use answered and already seeing failure of function. Maybe it is too good to be true.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1426, "id": 87580, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "So, this is what life comes down to when you are 50 years old:  reviewing dryer vent cleaners while sitting at your kitchen table waiting for American Idol.  This is not what I envisioned when I was 12, I can tell you that much.  You kids who think it won't happen to you?\n\nIt will.  Sorry to burst your bubble.\n\nThat said, the product works great.  Our dryer pretty much stopped working and we were thinking we needed a new one, which was seriously going to eat into my plastic surgery budget.  One last shot before a trip to the appliance store was this Gardus LintEater.  My husband, who is not the handy one of the family, had to do the work as I have a torn labrum.  (Which sounds dirtier than it is - that's part of your shoulder.)  He, the clumsiest man in the world, had absolutely no problem using this.  I warned him to read the directions first, and he actually listened and followed.  He hooked it up to the drill, and away he went.  He got a bunch of musty, wet lint that had probably been up inside the wall since 1977  - probably consisting of bell bottom material and macram.\n\nNow our dryer actually dries clothes again, and I can continue to save for my facelift. Thank you Gardus.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1427, "id": 11622, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 108, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "I purchased this product two weeks before Halloween of 2011. My handy-man father installed it and it works great! The product arrived in the box in perfect condition. I ordered it new, and I inspected it to make sure it did in-fact look new. It also matches my stainless steel appliances perfectly. I threw a Halloween bash and no one could even tell my appliances came from one place as a set, while the range hood came from Amazon at an amazing price! I highly recommend this purchase if you are trying to decide.\n&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Broan-413004-Economy-30-Inch-Two-Speed-Non-Ducted-Range-Hood-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0002YTM0I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Broan 413004 Economy 30-Inch Two-Speed Non-Ducted Range Hood, Stainless Steel</a>", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1428, "id": 238504, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 125, "len_tokens": 233, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R3GC8FV6YUML9L\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91sMKYCvSVS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/919wKK5-fES.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;This product was an exact replacement for the spindle bearings and driveshaft on my whirlpool Cabrio platinum model. By referencing videos on YouTube, I was able to complete the process in a reasonable amount of time. I would suggest that anyone who tries to perform this repair also purchase the bearing installation tool. The tool made pressing the bearings into place a much easier task. I also want to note that when removing the top of the washing machine, that you need to remove the top screw on the green bracket on the back of my particular washing machine model. Simply using a putty knife was not sufficient to remove the top.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1429, "id": 87776, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 181, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "Works great. I used it and an extension kit with extra rods to to clean a 21 foot long vent with a two right angle turns and it did a fantastic job with the adapter that lets you put the rod through and attach a shop vac. Got a TON of lint out, about a 5 gallon bucket full. Inside of the vent was left shiny and clean. Good for safety especially with such a long vent and to my surprise the dryer actually works quite a bit better now. On the auto cycle I used to have to run it again if I was drying heavy things like jeans or blankets/comforters etc... to fully dry things. Now it does it in one cycle and take about 25% less time to go through the auto dry cycle.\n\nI was just wanting to clean out a potential fire hazard but it really does make a big difference running through a dirty vent vs. a clean one. Might be due to the long length of my vent but very happy with this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1430, "id": 127381, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 218, "len_tokens": 247, "text": "I am so happy I bought this.  My oven has the ability to use it but I've never used it - not sure if I ever got one when I purchased my oven 2 years go.  The GE replace is over $100 and I couldn't imagine it would be worth especially since the reviews said it needed to be replaced every few months to couple of years - not because of any design flaws but because of the nature of the product.  I found this and since Amazon could not confirm it would fit my oven properly, I did a test run the weekend before Thanksgiving.  It was 100% accurate and worked like a charm.  I used it in my convection oven on Thanksgiving and my turkey was juicy on the inside and crispy on the outside and I never opened the oven once which is a huge deal for me.  I always have 25 - 30 people for each holiday dinner so I'm extremely busy and to be able to not worry about the main course is amazing!  I can replace the 5 times for the cost of the name brand and because it is so in expensive, I can order a back up so when it does eventually fail, I will still have one on hand.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1431, "id": 514832, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 239, "len_tokens": 279, "text": "Received the pkg quickly but had couple of problems: 1. A small dent on the outer frame which you cannot see until after you peel off the white colored plastic. We saw that after completing the Installation. 2. The alumunium filter that goes inside the filter cover was missing. Have reported to customer service who said they'll reach out to the manufacturer.\nThe installation itself is little tricky.\n- The inner & outer duct cover comes pre-welded (i.e., you've to slide them over the lower support frame mounted on range hood body. Due to this, you don't have room to fix the duct properly & firmly. We could not peel the plastic out of the inner duct cover completely as outer duct cover was covering that ( we did not remove the peel until after completing the installation to avoid mess up of drywall dust/paint)\n- sliding the lower support frame inside the upper support frame is very tricky (the screws that are used to mount the lower support frame with the range hood body was onstructing the upper support frame to slide over the lower support frame).\n\nAlso, I remember reading in the product description that you can control the on/off, fan speed and light from both sides. As you can see in the picture, it's only available on the front side.\nI wish the manufacturer has thought through these points and also documented the instruction manual better.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1432, "id": 38304, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 161, "len_tokens": 207, "text": "I purchased this item on November 28, 2016 and installed it about a week later. It was used in my 1-year-old's room, so it ran frequently until today, February 13, 2017. Somewhere in between those dates, it began growing mold! See attached picture for proof. It claims to be treated with anti microbial properties. I also used the anti microbial additive liquid to treat the water. This is so nasty, and thinking about my son breathing this air really bothers me. If this can happen in less than two months, what is the point of having a humidifier in the first place? The answer? Maybe it's the wick. I used the wick that came with the humidifier the previous winter and it made it through the season without mold. I threw it away and used a new replacement wick to start the machine's second season. What was different between the 1st and 2nd season? Just the wick.\n\nVery disappointing. Very unhealthy.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1433, "id": 569268, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 180, "len_tokens": 217, "text": "I had great hopes for this dishwasher that I bought to replace an 18 yr old KitchenAid. I was told by the dealer that American dishwashers all have the food disposal. With an advertised Piranha food disposal I thought this would be just what I needed. With my old dishwasher, I could put the dishes in without having to pre-wash everything. Unless I clean the dishes and the mesh filter every time I do a load, my dishes and glasses come out with small food deposits all over (the glasses, always on the hard to re-wash inside). The mesh filter is hard to get clean, and I'm sure it won't last a year, with me having to scrub it every day. Food particles do not come off easily.\nI thought the bottle jets were great, until they too left food deposited inside the bottles.\nOn the plus side, it has a very roomy interior. If you have tall glasses, you need to remove the 3rd rack.\nThe stainless exterior is hard to keep smudge free, especially by the handle.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1434, "id": 296745, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 189, "len_tokens": 219, "text": "I installed mine in our upstairs bathroom actually because I tend to get extremely thirsty at night. I figured it would be very convenient to have it as close to my bedroom as possible.\nDid I find it easy to install? Well, for the most part, yes. What was difficult was unscrewing the faucet tip from my sink. Attaching the actual product was simple.\nBy the way, in order to get the product working as smoothly as have the purest water ever, you should most definitely let the water run for a while the first time you use it.\nThis isn't like your typical water filter, well not any that I've ever tried before.\nIt is a separate tank that sits beside your sink rather than on the faucet.\nI like it although it is a bit larger than I would like it to be.\nThe water does taste clean and crisp. I like how easy it is to use. It's a nice product overall.\n\nDisclaimer: I received a free Blu Pure Water Filter for reviewing purposes. All opinions expressed are 100% my own. No other compensation was received", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1435, "id": 410504, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 194, "len_tokens": 236, "text": "Arrived on time. At first, I hated it. The spinner easily becomes unbalanced, but once you learn how to get it right, it works great. Do not expect to not do a little more work than a traditional washer. However, as a college student and mom in an apartment, this is great. I do a quick load of clothes and hang them on a drying rack. The whole process of washing takes around 20 minutes between washing and spinning. When I couldn't get the spinner right, the seller quickly returned my email with suggestions. I've had this a few days and so far, I do not regret buying it. I use a 5 gallon bucket to fill it faster than the included hose. I also use liquid soap and seriously when I say you need very little, I mean it. I use about two tablespoons of Purex or Tide and sometimes I reuse the water if it isn't too dirty. Anyway, I don't hate the machine now. You won't regret purchasing it.\nUpdate 10/18/16\nThis doesn't work at all. I used it two months and it is now broken and I cannot return it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1436, "id": 517853, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 245, "len_tokens": 296, "text": "I purchased a showcase home and was impressed with the Bosch kitchen appliance package that was included with my new home.  Within two weeks of using the stove, our teapot melted on the stove when accidentally left unattended.  OK, this was our bad and no fault of Bosch, but we were surprised how powerful this stove is that it could melt a teapot!  Several months later we noticed the two large front burners started to get discolored and cannot be scoured, cleaned or scrapped with a razor blade to return it to it's original finish.  We have lived with a white char marks on the stove ever since. Earlier this week while sliding a plate off the top of a frying pan on the stove (we did not have a lid large enough) , it was accidentally dropped on the glass surface which chipped the edge of the glass on the stove, but the plate did not break.  Since this incidence, the chip has turn into a crack that has run the entire length of the stove.\n\nWe have a 2nd residence which we purchased a Samsung glass top slide in stove for.  We have not had any issues with the glass discoloring, chipping, cracking or overheating of the elements.  I don't normally write reviews for products, but the $600.00 price tag to replace this stove top was my motivation.  Far better choices out there than this stove, do your research and stay away from Bosch.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1437, "id": 250719, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 188, "len_tokens": 235, "text": "Perfect fit. Took about 20 minutes total to replace, including taking the dishwasher out and such. The adapter was not needed. Dishwasher works good as new!\n\nHow to replace\n\n1.) Make sure the dishwasher is drained\n2.) Turn of power to dishwasher\n3.) Turn of water to dishwasher\n4.) Remove anchors from counter attaching the dishwasher\n5.) Pull out dishwasher and lean it on something, or lay it on it's face (water may come out, put a towel down)\n6.) There is a metal bracket holding the current motor in, unscrew the two screws holding the metal bracket in\n7.) Slide the metal bracket away from the dishwaser.\n8.) Take notice which way the motor is oriented.\n9.) Remove power cable from motor (need to push the latch to remove)\n10.) Give a good pull and wiggle to the motor and it should pop out.\n11.) Put the sealing rings on the new motor (two)\n12.) Put the new motor in the oriented the same way as the old motor. Just give a good push and wiggle.\n13.) Do the instructions in reverse to put it back together.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1438, "id": 340767, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 205, "len_tokens": 252, "text": "I recently used this kit to replace the top rack adjuster assemblies on a Kitchenaid KUDS30IXBL0 dishwasher. The original design had inferior plastic axel assemblies that broke and caused the wheels on the top rack to  drop out of position and jam.  The Whirlpool/Kitchenaid company offers the W10712394 kit which provides all the parts to replace the top rack adjusters (both left and right sides are included in the kit along with retainer clips, etc).  The instructions included with the kit I received were poorly written and not well illustrated (small dark pictures and confusing text), but do a Youtube search for W10712394 and you will find a video that is more than adequate for a person with average mechanical skills.  Also, you will need a T15 torx screwdriver (not mentioned in the instructions with the kit that I received), to secure the screws on the replacement assembly (you can purchase a T15 torx tool on amazon).  I recommend this kit rather than attempting to replace individual component parts. Using this kit you simply discard all the parts from the original adjuster assemblies and install the new assemblies. Took about an hour to do the repair after I found the Youtube video online.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1439, "id": 98535, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 176, "len_tokens": 220, "text": "We have had this dishwasher for about 6 months now and have had 8 service calls.  It's a piece of garbage.  First motor burned out (sounded like jet taking off) and now it always leaks in the lower right corner to the point where it has ruined the hardwood underneath.  Each time the service tech comes back he looks at the model, shakes his head, and says \"I'll order you a seal kit, but I'll be back again because even that won't work\".  Apparently these leak due to the seal at bottom of door not sealing properly, and there is no long term fix.  DO NOT BUY THIS DISHWASHER!  We no longer can run the dishwasher unless someone is home and watching the floor to ensure water is not pouring out.  Frigidare - if you read this you should give me a new dishwasher (not this model) and replace my floor.  Getting ready to call service again...Good thing I bought extended warranty.  I will call for service every time until Frigidare replace this piece of junk.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1440, "id": 333429, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 259, "text": "I bought this fridge for my team (using budget from my line of business) with the expectation that it would be a nice-looking fridge. However, it is dented in 3 places - the left of the door, the right of the door and the bottom (back) of the fridge. It should be ok if I hide it under a desk. However, I wanted this to be a pretty item that needn't be hidden, which it would have been but for the dents. The dented door is really what is stressing me out. It doesn't look good. The pictures don't convey it as well as I would like, because of the reflectivity.\n\nEverything else appears to be fine. I cannot turn it on for a couple days because it was delivered upside down and I was told I cannot plug it in for at least 24 hours. I'll update if there are subsequent issues.\n\nI'll caveat that I would mark this as a 2-star review if it was only for my personal use. It was easy to setup and mostly looks fine. It's more of an issue because my boss, boss's boss and boss's boss's boss are going to walk past it everyday and I don't want them thinking I bought a cheap fridge with their money.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1441, "id": 35102, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 185, "len_tokens": 236, "text": "Received it today and it's still in vinegar clean out mode.  It's working like an ice making machine should and pumping vinegar ice out as I type this!  So for, during my vinegar clean out stage, it's been working great.  Tomorrow I am expecting to have 35lbs of clean ice in my freezer.  We will see and I will update this review if it's anything but 5 stars.\n\nHOWEVER, I can say that this machine is LOUD.  It's not loud like a dishwasher...it's much louder.  It reminds me of the fan vent above the stove when it's on high.  It's THAT loud.\n\nI bought this to substitute a broken ice maker in my kitchen fridge. I was trying to avoid the $1500 to $2200 price tag of a new fridge to replace my otherwise perfectly working one.  But after 7 hours of hearing this ice maker run in my kitchen I'm thinking $2200 isn't sounding that bad for a new fridge.\n\nI will not be returning this as I think it's perfect for parties and camping trips.  This little gem is not leaving my possession!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1442, "id": 261377, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 137, "len_tokens": 217, "text": "Read all the reviews and saw that some people were able to switch their Original GE certified O rings with this one and it would not leak.  Not the case for the one I received.  The O rings that came with this one in the mail were OBVIOUSLY too large, but I gave it a go to see if it would seal.  Then I switched out the rings for the others, still the same problem.  Looks like the only way to get a filter that works is to go through the GE original for $50 each.  Don't bother wasting your time, now I'm going to have to print off a return label and drop it off at a drop box.  Thankfully Amazon makes it easy.<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/GE-RPWF-Smartwater-Compatible-Water-Filter-Made-in-USA/dp/B00J9Q47PA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">GE RPWF Smartwater Compatible Water Filter Made in USA</a>", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1443, "id": 107278, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 188, "len_tokens": 233, "text": "My washing machine (front loaded Samsung, with stacked dryer on top) vibrates when the load isn't balanced and the spin cycle begins.  It's bad enough my wife thinks the house will fall apart, even though it doesn't bother me that much.  I was willing to try anything to appease my wife, even spending $40 on some \"silent feet\".  That seems like a really high price to pay for a few small pieces of fancy foam, but if it worked, I'd be happy.\n\nNeedless to say, these aren't miracle feet.  We still feel the washing machine vibrate the windows downstairs, or shake the beds.  My approach now is to try to do as much laundry as possible when my wife and kids are not home, because silent feet didn't save the day.\n\nI'm not saying they don't work for others, but in my situation my wife still thinks the house will shake apart, and wants to try adjusting levels (done that), and everything else to stop our washing machine from shaking when it begins the spin cycle.  Don't have miracle expectations from these, or you will likely be disappointed.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1444, "id": 88617, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "Anyone who thinks they don't have a problem with lint should look at these pictures.  My house is only 10 years old and this is what came out of our vent.  That doesn't even include what was cleaned out from our dryer filter and what was in just the dryer unit.  This product is very easy to use.  I definitely suggest taping each junction to make sure they don't separate in the vent.  I broke my cleaning into 4 cleanings. Fist cleaning was with just the brush and the first extension.  After ensuring that section is clean I added the second and so forth until the brush came out clean.  Given the length of the brush with all four sections, I found it easier to have another set of hands guide the brush into the vent while the other set was operating the drill.\nI noticed that when I turned the dryer back on there was some lint that was dislodged and blew out the outside vent opening.  Unfortunately in my case some lodged between the slats and is keeping the vent opening from fully closing.  I will be making a trip up my ladder once the ground dries a little so I can remove those pieces.  A little price to pay for a clean vent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1445, "id": 388569, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 234, "len_tokens": 272, "text": "If you love to chew ice, then you will love this ice maker.  The ice is best right out of the holding basket, but I will say that a big draw-back is that the ice is wet when you take it out of the holding area which isn't a big deal if you are going to use it immediately, but it is if you are making a bunch of ice for future use, not so great.  You can't put wet ice in the freezer or it will freeze together in a big lump.  The big lump of ice will have to be broken apart with an ice pick which give you sharp edges on the ice and as an ice chewer....not desirable.  So what I have been doing is taking a smaller batch of ice and putting it in a freezer bag and then placing the bag in the freezer with the ice spread out in a single layer.  Later on when it's all frozen, I break up the ice in the bag, trying to keep the ice as \"whole\" as possible and transfer the ice to the ice holder in the freezer.  Yes, I know it's a bit involved, but it works.  I wouldn't want this ice maker to be my sole source of ice, but I do like the small size \"cubes\" it puts out for small batches of ice chewing pleasure!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1446, "id": 388250, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 175, "len_tokens": 217, "text": "I bought this caps because many of my prongs were split and starting to rust.  I was excited when they arrived and started to put them on the rusty or split prongs.  As I started to slide on the first one, I realized that it didn't fit.  I pressed harder, then as hard as I could.  Still it would not go on.  I got one or two on after some serious effort.  Now, over a month later, they sit in the cupboard tool bucket, taking up space.  I should have returned them and looked for a larger size, but didn't feel it was worth it.  I am planning to have another round at it, by using a hammer to force it on, maybe I'll update the review if that is successful.  It may work for you as a preventative measure, but if yours are already split, bloated, or rusty, then this product will not help you.  Unless dishwasher prong sizes vary widely by manufacturer, and you feel yours are exceptionally small, I would look elsewhere.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1447, "id": 54650, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 153, "len_tokens": 204, "text": "I bought this washer at a good price from HomeDepot in January 2010.  The washer worked fine.  However it is now October 2013 and the plastic door has fallen off the hinge!  Looking at replacement parts it will cost me $300 if I do the work myself.  The door is backordered so my guess is that many people have this problem.\nCOVER - DOOR\nManufacturer: Whirlpool\nPart# 34001424\nI wouldn't buy any front loader washing machine that uses this door and I think many do.  It seems like the plastic just rotted.  I didn't realize this was a cheap product and I am very unsatisfied.  I don't think this product deserves any stars.  If the door didn't crack/brake off I would have rated the washing as a 3 or 4.  Now if I buy a new washer I will look up replacement parts for the model to get a sense of its durability.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1448, "id": 281919, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 225, "len_tokens": 254, "text": "I've had this refrigerator for a couple of years now. It's the nicest refrigerator I have ever had. There is a lot of room in the freezer. Much more than your normal top freezer. I love the deli drawer. It has worked absolutely perfectly. The freezer does not build up frost. At least, mine doesn't. It is easy to program for the temperature you want to keep everything. I like that it tells me when the filter needs to be changed and also rings a bell if the fridge is accidentally left open.\n\nMy only problem with it so far is that the screws fell out of the handle on the freezer. When it came loose we tightened up the one side, but never found the screw for the other side and I'm doubting there was ever a screw in that side at all. And now we have to try to find a screw to fit it to hold the handle on. The other problem I have had with it is that the holders on the inside of the doors, where you put condiments and other small bottles and jars occasionally fall off and it's not at all easy to put them back on.\n\nOther than those two things, I really like the refrigerator and it has worked well for us. It looks good too.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1449, "id": 108329, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 236, "len_tokens": 272, "text": "We purchased this fridge from Sears after what we thought was a lot of research, including buying a Consumer Reports book. We wanted a large fridge with a bottom freezer and, while we were wary of the ice-maker function, we really wanted our kids to be able to get their own water for a change and we had been making ice with ice trays for years previous. We paid $2599 during a boxing day sale in 2012.\nFast forward to just over a year later.  As I type this, my husband is hunched over the ice-maker with my hair dryer, trying to melt what we are hoping is a block of ice, which has caused the water dispenser to be dripping water for almost a week. The front compartment of the ice-maker will not even come off. We are praying this works, and I sincerely wish I had come across all the reviews on this site (we are in Canada).\nPlease do not buy this fridge. While our problem is still unresolved at this moment, it has been such a hassle to relocate all our food.\n\nAnd I agree wholeheartedly with the reviewers who said the door alarm is highly annoying, and the buttons to get water and ice are very sticky and you have to press them very hard. Also, water filters are over $50 each and need to be replaced every 4-6 months.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1450, "id": 468605, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 200, "len_tokens": 241, "text": "We are a family of four in NYC, bought this refrigerator five years ago, used it lightly (secondary kitchen) and the MOTOR BROKE now, just after 5 years!! The motor can't be repaired and must be replaced, the cost of that is at least $400!! When we first bought the regrigerator we were stunned by its looks and expected quality as good as its design. We were wrong. Here is a contrast: my family owns a 40+ years old refrigerator called \"Minsk\" made by Soviets in Belarus and it still works, and never needed a slightest repair in more than four decades. More on this LG trouble: 1) upper doors often wouldn't close properly and needed adjustment after adjustment, 2) it's not easy to clean this refrigerator because of the way the shelves designed as they have tiny - and unnecessary - details underneath them that makes it hard to clean them even when you take everything out; 3) white plastic used for the inside details/shelves breaks easily, we broke an upper part of a thing that separates the big freezer compartment by just trying to push it while pulling something out of the freezer. I do regret buying it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1451, "id": 111722, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 165, "len_tokens": 204, "text": "Within a week after buying this machine, I made a note on the care booklet that it was the worse washer ever and that we hated it.  The clothes did not seem to get as clean as they did with our original agitator machine.  I thought maybe it was the economical detergent we were using. So, I tried a more expensive top name detergent with no difference.  Some clothes came out with weird \"grease\" like spots on them.  Other items stretched out from the spinning and underwire bras were mangled in a regular wash unless I used a \"bra bag\".  After 2 1/2 years, the washer started making a horrible grinding noise and not draining properly. We researched possible causes and decided that it wasn't worth calling a repairman or attempting to fix ourselves.  We are replacing it with a brand new  \"old style\" agitator that has no computer sensors and an extended warranty and will hopefully last 20 years like washers used to last!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1452, "id": 224819, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 219, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "The motor was just as described. The unit had different electrical connections compared to the one originally installed in the dryer. The new motor came with all of the necessary new electrical connectors to adapt the wiring on the dryer to the new motor terminals.\n\nWould have rated this as 5 stars except the instructions for how to connect the existing wires to the new motor are a vague and the picture that shows the connections is of very poor quality.\n\nA hint to getting the PLASTIC blower fan off of the old motor without breaking:\n- Expose the fan on the back side of the motor.\n- Clamp a vice-grip pliers to the shaft on the end near the pullet for the drum belt.\n- Place a piece of wood on the bottom of the dryer where the vice-grip contacts the dryer housing to prevent denting the dryer.\n- use your hands to rotate the fan counter clockwise, then quickly rotate it clockwise so that the vice-grip hits the wood on the bottom of the dryer. if you do this a few times with enough force the plastic blower fan will be loosened and you can spin it off the shaft. The threads on the blower fan are reverse threaded so the fan tightens in a counter-clockwise direction.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1453, "id": 280528, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 257, "len_tokens": 293, "text": "I had years of buildup in a 27 foot duct that ran under the house with a right angle in the first 2 feet. After living here 3 years, my drier started giving me an error message about air flow. I invested in 2 of these kits to connect together and try to clean it out.\nAfter reading other reviews, I was very nervous about It coming apart inside the duct. I tested the attachment and un-attachment of the drill before putting anything in further than I could reach and was glad I did because the first time I unattached the drill (I wasn't holding it right) the rods came unscrewed (duct tape reinforcement and all) which would have been disastrous in the duct.\nAfter that, I attached one rod at a time and pulled it back up to clean the lint off. Each time it went down with one more rod and came back up with more lint. By the time I got past the halfway point it was a lot easier and less lint came back.\nAll in all, I pulled up about 5 lbs of lint (filling an entire plastic grocery bag. Ewww). I didn't make it quite to the end but could see the brush from the outside end and it was clean.\nI feel so much better about not burning down the house now and my next load of laundry dried in half the time.\nThis was a small investment for a lasting peace of mind and much quicker laundry times!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1454, "id": 352440, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 241, "len_tokens": 299, "text": "I love this little machine!  It gets the clothes very clean because you can control the water, soap, wash and rinse times and frequency. The spinner practically dries clothes. I got this because I've used a larger version overseas. When my 6 yr old Maytag digital HE died, I wanted something reliable, mechanical, and not expensive. Since it is too small to do things like bedspreads and pillows, I'll eventually have to get a full-size machine. It does do sheets, tho a double bed set is a load all by itself. I'm single so I'm not trying to do a whole family's laundry. I'm also a landscaper and it handles grubby jeans just fine.\n\nThe lack of a standard hose fitting on the intake hose is the biggest problem with this washer. I hooked mine up to the regular washer hoses. I use a Y to connect the two hoses, then a short length of hose to run it into the machine.  I cut off the end of the hose and that fits the intake, replacing the hose that comes with it. The machinemy, which is short--taller people might want a pedestal--will also fit in the bathtub. You could probably cut off the end of a hand shower hose and fit that onto the intake (5/8\"), but I haven't tried it.\n\nEven when I get a full-size machine (a Speed Queen), I will use this for small loads and for back-up.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1455, "id": 465296, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 182, "len_tokens": 212, "text": "I've had this fridge for almost 9 years. For the last 4-5 years the freezer has been building ice and not defrosting. In order to make this fridger function normally I've had to unplug it, get a space heater and defrost the freezer and mop up the flood on my kitchen floor every time there's too much ice build up. It gets particularly bad in the summer.\n\nThis all stems from the poor door design in the fridge. If something is placed in either top shelf in the fridge it can obstruct the door from closing. In a lot of fridge's simply shutting the door and allowing it to reset itself usually fixes the problem. Not on this fridge. This fridge never recovered.\n\nI don't recommend this refrigerator because it's door design makes it too easy to cause it to malfunction. The placement of the temperature dial is too far forward in the refrigerator causing it obstruct the door from closing properly. If you choose this refrigerator you need to make sure the doors shut all the way otherwise you'll have problems.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1456, "id": 182433, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 185, "len_tokens": 225, "text": "We've had this range for just under 3 years and it has been the most hateful piece of garbage I've ever had the misfortune to buy. I just pat a nearly $300.00 repair bill to replace an igniter in the lower oven. I don't know why I even bothered as the oven heats so unevenly that it's almost impossible to actually use the thing. The top oven is not much better, nor are the  burners.\n\nWhen we bought the range we took GE at its word when they said that the range could be converted to LP. We changed orifices, adjusted vents, tweaked this and moved that as instructed to no avail. The ovens heat unevenly and the burners have little in the way of flame adjustment as nearly 2/3rds of the knob travel is just movement that affects the flame not a whit. The higher gas pressure required by LPG negates almost all of your flame adjustment capabilities.\n\nI hate giving this drek even a single star. I will never, ever buy another GE product be it a light bulb or a jet engine!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1457, "id": 99442, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 191, "len_tokens": 227, "text": "I had a Kenmore washer that lasted 12 years and probably had a few more good years left, but I decided I needed a new washer and dryer. WRONG!!!! The quality is just not there in appliances (or anything for that matter).  I began having issues after about 1 year with this Maytag Centennial. It is of course computerized and we all know what that means. It began with the cycles being off, such as agitating before water began filling the tub, not spinning all the water out, partially filling the tub regardless of size or weight of load. It is Energy Star rated but that is a joke if you have reset it to spin out the water it leaves or run another cycle because it did not clean well enough. Where is the savings??? I know why they don't make appliances that last...they want to sell us extended warranties or have us replace the appliance every 2 or 3 years. I am disgusted. I am purchasing a different brand (that has nothing to do with Whirlpool, which manufactures Maytag and Kenmore washers now) and hoping for the best!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1458, "id": 116353, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 213, "len_tokens": 269, "text": "Needed to replace the ice maker in our Whirlpool side-by-side refigerator-freezer, which had developed a crack in the plastic and was leaking water and creating icicles in the freezer!  The RIM943 was an exact replacement, and came with adequate instructions for installation.  A new harness was included, although the old harness can be used.  A harness adaptor was also included for installations that may use a different plug (not needed for my Whirlpool).  Romoval of the old Ice Maker and installation of the new took about 15 minutes.  Working in the freezer side of a side-by-side is tight and I used a little mirror to align and insert the three screws to mount the assembly, and I recommend this, because you cannot see these locations.  The screws are all 1/4\" slotted heads.  Recommend you use a socket wrench and don't try using a screw driver.\nAfter allowing the freezer to cool down, it didn't take long to hear the valve open, the sound of water into the ice maker, and a bit later the sound of the ice cubes plopping into the tray.\nAnd, oh, it is a good price.\nRated this product high because it is indeed an exact replacement, good instructions, included everything needed to install, and a good price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1459, "id": 56950, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 252, "len_tokens": 296, "text": "We were the second owners of our home and soon after we moved in, I started noticing our brand new dryer was taking a lot longer to dry clothes and the air in the room had a lot of lint particles.  Upon doing a bit of research, I narrowed down the issues to the dryer vents being clogged.  I called some of the vent cleaning services and the quotes were mind boggling.  Based on the length of the vent, they started at $100 to a whopping $400.  I think the companies prey on your fear of dryer vent fires and charge accordingly.\nThe vent was located in our basement ceiling and ran the entire width of the room around 25 feet long.  I just disconnected the vent at 2 locations and fed the brush from 1 end and collected the lint at the other end.  In this way I was able to clean it from 2 locations to complete the entire length of 10 years of gunk.  I just taped the vent back with 3M Silver tape and viola it was done in about 2 hours.\nThe key is to make sure to follow the instructions carefully and use the lowest setting on the drill to turn the cleaner slowly.  Instructions were concise and worked great with my cordless Black and Decker drill.\nThis Lint Eater cleaned my dryer vent and saved me a lot of money in the process.  Now the clothes get dry fast and the wife is quite happy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1460, "id": 23913, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 194, "len_tokens": 254, "text": "My GE refrigerator was purchased new in 2007 (model GSS23QG /GSS23QS /GSS25QG /GSS25QS).  I have replaced the filter many times and had no problems.  Until i purchased this filter. As soon as I installed it the filter following all the instructions properly, it emitted a high pitch whining noise whenever you dispense water and the water pressure has gone down.  I thought it would go away, and after waiting a month, realized it was permanent.  I removed the filter 3 times and installed it and always get the high pitch noise when getting water.  I believe that they have updated the filter without admitting it.  I called GE at 1-800-626-2002 and they said there has been no changes to the filter, but the facts speak for themselves. So if you get lucky and get one of the old filters, then great.  If you get a new one, I hope you like your water with a little whine. This filter has a large hole in the middle with two lines about 1/4 inch each on either side of it.  This company should not be selling the filters if they know there is a problem.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1461, "id": 386942, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 158, "len_tokens": 225, "text": "Took 10  minutes to install.  You'll need a std 3/16\" nut driver and some dish soap.  Fixes the problem of water consistently pooling up on the floor in front of several whirlpool refridgerators.  GI6FARXXY07 is my model.  Started leaking water after 2.5 years of service.  Whirlpool sells the same part for $27 + $9 shipping.\n\n1. Remove bottom slotted metal panel on rear of fridge.  Take care not to cut yourself on the thin stamped metal cover.\n2. Remove existing drain tube and \"duck bill\" grommet.  (this is the problem)\n3. Use dish soap on the OD of the supplied spacer and insert it into the new tube (instructions say to put it on the fridge first, don't bother)\n4. Use dish soap on the ID of the spacer, and install onto the fridge drain tube.\n5. Put the cover back on.\n6. Move on with your life, knowing whirlpool saved $0.50 per fridge with an inferior design....", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1462, "id": 87308, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "So, this is what life comes down to when you are 50 years old:  reviewing dryer vent cleaners while sitting at your kitchen table waiting for American Idol.  This is not what I envisioned when I was 12, I can tell you that much.  You kids who think it won't happen to you?\n\nIt will.  Sorry to burst your bubble.\n\nThat said, the product works great.  Our dryer pretty much stopped working and we were thinking we needed a new one, which was seriously going to eat into my plastic surgery budget.  One last shot before a trip to the appliance store was this Gardus LintEater.  My husband, who is not the handy one of the family, had to do the work as I have a torn labrum.  (Which sounds dirtier than it is - that's part of your shoulder.)  He, the clumsiest man in the world, had absolutely no problem using this.  I warned him to read the directions first, and he actually listened and followed.  He hooked it up to the drill, and away he went.  He got a bunch of musty, wet lint that had probably been up inside the wall since 1977  - probably consisting of bell bottom material and macram.\n\nNow our dryer actually dries clothes again, and I can continue to save for my facelift. Thank you Gardus.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1463, "id": 559206, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 195, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "While the plug doesn't look exactly as advertised/shown, it is a cute little earphone jack plug that does the job. It fits in the 3.5mm jack in all my phones: iPhone 5s, Samsung galaxy 5 & 6, and galaxy tablet.\n\nIt does what it says - provides protection against dust, gunk, dirt, etc for the earphone jack. Its great when you aren't using your earphone jack/ while using Bluetooth to avoid any substances from getting in your phone while its stilling in your pocket or your bag.\n\nIs it blingy?....not exactly but it does provide a bit of something to your phone. The 4 stars is based on the fact that the bling plug wasn't as shown and wasn't exactly blingy....it consisted of just the one large middle stone; the outer ring of smaller and medium stones was missing/or not added.  However it does the job!\n\nI received this product at a discount in exchange for my honest and unbiased review. Free and/or discounted merchandise doesn't buy my admiration, love, affection or support. I can only give my honest opinion and save the fluff for someone else! All words expressed here are my own.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1464, "id": 11422, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 175, "len_tokens": 217, "text": "This hood was much cheaper than the ones in the local stores and just as functional and nice to look at.  I was able to mount it in about 5 minutes.  The wiring is exposed when you remove a protective plate (one screw) and you can either wire it into your wall or wire in a cord.  I chose to wire in a plug and it's working great!  The light is perfect and the fan is nice too.  It is very simple, on/off light and off/lo/hi fan.  The fan is functional but nothing to brag about.  One of the other comments on here said that it is not square.  I don't know it that's true or not.  It's a little flexible; it's made of relatively thin stainless steel, so you can manipulate it if needed.  Mine looks great installed.  I did have to push it a little in one spot on the right and use a dab of glue to get it to appear square, but it's a great improvement to my kitchen.  Cheap too!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1465, "id": 99427, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 180, "len_tokens": 219, "text": "I purchased this machine in January 2010, after about a year and after the warranty had expired it started malfunctioning. The agitator will start immediately on the wash cycle before it starts to add water, and then at the end of the spin cycle it puts a little water back in it, causing me to have to spin it back out again. I called Maytag and they told me the part was like $75.00 plus a repairman to come fix it would have been another $75.00, It will occasionally reset itself, so I didn't go that route but then it will do it again. This has been the worst experience I have ever had with a washer. I had a Kenmore for 15 years and never had a problem with it. This will be my last Maytag washer as I will be going back to get another washer and put this one on the curb, before it ruins all my clothes with the agitator dashing dry clothes.\n\nDo not buy  this washer...I thought the name would sell a decent product...WRONG!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1466, "id": 265279, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 162, "len_tokens": 213, "text": "I'm very happy with this purchase, and may order more.  I received these quite quickly and well-packaged.  I tested them with a low-current 12V \"wall wart\", and all five work well.  Don't test these at their rated (or unlimited) amperage, like a car battery.  They will self-destruct within seconds if not attached to a good heatsink on the hot side, as they quickly reach the melt point of the solder inside them.  Yes, they get that hot that fast.  Lower current will work more slowly, preventing damage and possibly a painful burn.  A 9V battery would probably work well.\nI've read reviews of this part number that said the hot/cold side varied in regards to the printing location, but on all of mine the printed side is cold when the red lead is connected to 12V+.  If you get variances with that, they're not defective! Just use a Sharpie to mark the hot side so you install them correctly for your application.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1467, "id": 410004, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 200, "len_tokens": 266, "text": "I did not purchase this item from Amazon, but I learned some things by ordering the WRONG part from another retailer, due to a confusing (and possibly incorrect parts diagram) for a Samsung NE58F9500SS/AA slide in oven.\n\nThis fan motor (part number: DG31-00005A) is the correct  motor for the LOWER convection fan.  It should have reverse threads on the shaft, since the fan blades turn clockwise. ( I cannot verify that this particular item has this feature however).  The sticker on the motor body in the photo (SMC-U386A) is correct for the LOWER motor that came out of my stove.\n\nThe fan motor for the UPPER convection fan should be part number DG31-00007C.  It should have standard threads on the shaft, since the fan blades turn counter clockwise. The sticker on the motor body should be SMC-U386C.\n\nthe two motors are very similar, but NOT interchangeable.  They CAN be disassembled, and the rotor/shaft direction switched to make them work if you screwed up and bought the wrong one like I did, but the original cap nuts won't fit since the threads will be backwards .....\n\nswitching them out is EASY if you have the right parts.  Hope that helps someone!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1468, "id": 99967, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 240, "len_tokens": 285, "text": "I had to overcome my skepticism over how this machine works but I did a lot of research before making this purchase so no surprises. Watch the utube videos!!! They convinced me! It truly works for me and it's amazing how clean my clothes came out with just one half to one tablespoon of Method detergent for dirty clothes.  The size is perfect for me and I love that it's non electric. The design issues of the drain spout need to be improved upon. Yes it leaks when you push the spout in or remove it. The new cover with release works just fine with no leakage. I did a load on countertop with dish towel under unit. Not hard to turn this unit at all and I'm 65 years old! Next load this will just be put inside my shower stall to drain there and run down my gray water drain system. Why dirty one more article of clothing?!?? That's just making work. I purchased a manual over the electric mini washers because the electric machines had drainage issues also but for a lot more money. I wanted as few parts to potentially break as possible. I did splurge on the laundry alternative mega 22 lb load spin dryer and that's also a winner. This setup will save me over $1000.00 a year in laundromat fees! That doesn't include time and expense of driving 10 miles to closest laundromat!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1469, "id": 348197, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 172, "len_tokens": 200, "text": "OMG this thing makes so much ice.  I put it in my rv so that I could have ice for drinks and while I like ice, I don't have much freezer space to have a bag.  It takes but a bit of space however it is so worth it.  I kept ice for 5-6 peoples drinks no problem.  If you are mindful of how much water is in it, it can pump out so much more.\n\nI was lucky to receive this product at a discount in exchange for my honest and unbiased review. That being said, I always give my honest opinion and never give false reviews. If anything in my review was helpful to you, I would appreciate it if you would press the yes button below. I take my online reviews very seriously and really enjoy trying to help people's shopping experience in my spare time.  Also,  leave a comment if you have any questions, I will be more than happy to answer if I can be of help.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1470, "id": 469105, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 154, "len_tokens": 203, "text": "Check out other reviews both on Amazon and other sites.  Dacor makes beautiful appliances that do not work well at all.  They are poorly designed, poorly manufactured, and poorly serviced.  We purchased a $5,000+ dual fuel range two years ago.  The stove is great.  The oven is terrible.  It is too small, the handle is difficult to use, and the oven is very glitchy.  The control panel is very hard to use and it recently failed.  When we called \"customer service\" they politely told us that it was out of warranty and that they could not help us.  We had to get tough before they would agree to send us parts at a discount.  But then, the fun continued.  We could not find a Dacor service tech in our area.  When you pay over $5k for a range you expect excellent performance and quality.  We are disappointed.  We'll never buy another Dacor appliance.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1471, "id": 431937, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 107, "len_tokens": 219, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-RKVT3WEL6TY4K\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/C1xRDPAxVPS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81yAsUwA9KS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;If you're looking for some small binoculars to take to a sporting event or other such occasion, these will fit the bill nicely. They feel sturdy and well made. The rubberized body lessens the chance that they will fall out of your hand. There is a neck strap to prevent dropping them, too. I was able to clearly make out a car licence plate at well over 100 yards+ and my vision is far from perfect. I'd recommend these as a buy. This item was provided to me in exchange for an honest review", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1472, "id": 71104, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 156, "len_tokens": 202, "text": "Had one of these in the compactor that came with our house.  It lasted about 4 years.  Got this name-brand replacement, and it lasted like a month.  The handles broke and, more importantly, it just got chewed up in the compactor.  The old one had the same problems-but after 4 years.\n\nThey either need to make these things more flexible or less flexible.  They are flexible enough that they tend to collapse when the trash is mostly empty.  Then, when the trash is later full, they tend to warp with the compacting.  Worst part is, after warping, they suddenly seem to be solid, and they want to keep their warped shape.  From there you have to manipulate them back into a straight shape--and start the process over again.\n\nUpdate: Got a replacement, and it is holding up MUCH better.  I guess it's hit and miss, but with Amazon's easy returns, you know it will be fixed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1473, "id": 141588, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 223, "len_tokens": 289, "text": "I had the exact experience as some of the other customers. The purchase transaction was OK and it arrived in a timely manner. However...\n\n1. The sticker on the part is labeled \"2198202\", which is the required part for my Whirpool brand refrigerator.\n2. Unplugged the unit, replaced the existing part with the new part, and put the unit back together (about 45 mins).\n3. Inserted the knob and set it to the OFF position. Plugged the power cord to the wall outlet.\n4. Turned the knob to my unit's recommended position (3). The unit started.\n5. After about four hours, the freezer and fridge were abou 15F and 45F, respectively.\n6. After about six hours, the freezer and fridge were abou 5F and 35F, respectively; should have switched OFF by now.\n7. Turned the knob to a setting of 1, but the compressor kept going. Turned the knob to below 1, but not completely OFF. It kept going.\n\nI messed with it for a couple of more days before I gave up. I reinstalled the old part (good thing I did not throw it away). While it is flaky, it somewhat works. This new piece of junk does not work at all. I suspect it is a cheap knock-off and not a genuine OEM part like the vendor claims.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1474, "id": 105081, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 238, "len_tokens": 262, "text": "I love this washer! I was not sure what to expect as I have never used a mini-washer before but I read and watched a lot of reviews and this washer does not disappoint. It has been cleaning my clothes better than the laundry-mat and I would definitely recommend this to someone who is looking to have washer and dryer capabilities in a limited space.\n\nThere was one thing I was surprised to read in the instructions and that is that you are supposed to only hook it up to the cold water? Um, no. I am not terribly picky about laundry - I don't separate colors and all that - but I do wash everything in HOT water. So, I have this running in a spare bathroom hooked up to the sink and I only run it HOT. I do, however, turn on the faucet only about half way so it doesn't build up too much pressure. When I was leaving it at full pressure with the faucet and it sat for a while before I went to turn off the faucet after the load was finished, it started leaking out around the apparatus that connects to the sink faucet. Since I started keeping it at only hot water and half pressure on the faucet, I have not had any other water leakage around the connection to the faucet. Love this washer and would buy this again!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1475, "id": 88504, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 181, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "Works great. I used it and an extension kit with extra rods to to clean a 21 foot long vent with a two right angle turns and it did a fantastic job with the adapter that lets you put the rod through and attach a shop vac. Got a TON of lint out, about a 5 gallon bucket full. Inside of the vent was left shiny and clean. Good for safety especially with such a long vent and to my surprise the dryer actually works quite a bit better now. On the auto cycle I used to have to run it again if I was drying heavy things like jeans or blankets/comforters etc... to fully dry things. Now it does it in one cycle and take about 25% less time to go through the auto dry cycle.\n\nI was just wanting to clean out a potential fire hazard but it really does make a big difference running through a dirty vent vs. a clean one. Might be due to the long length of my vent but very happy with this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1476, "id": 88088, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 181, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "Works great. I used it and an extension kit with extra rods to to clean a 21 foot long vent with a two right angle turns and it did a fantastic job with the adapter that lets you put the rod through and attach a shop vac. Got a TON of lint out, about a 5 gallon bucket full. Inside of the vent was left shiny and clean. Good for safety especially with such a long vent and to my surprise the dryer actually works quite a bit better now. On the auto cycle I used to have to run it again if I was drying heavy things like jeans or blankets/comforters etc... to fully dry things. Now it does it in one cycle and take about 25% less time to go through the auto dry cycle.\n\nI was just wanting to clean out a potential fire hazard but it really does make a big difference running through a dirty vent vs. a clean one. Might be due to the long length of my vent but very happy with this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1477, "id": 457589, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 211, "len_tokens": 279, "text": "We have the Electrolux ICON 36'' Dual-Fuel Freestanding Range\nWe purchased this stove in 2012 to replace a fully functional Kenmore Elite, dual-fuel 30\" stove that cost us $1200 in 2002. It functioned without fault for 10 years. We replaced it only because we wanted a larger oven. For the first 3 years of use it functioned satisfactorily. After a particularly messy turkey roast, during the holidays, we ran the \"Clean Cycle\". Subsequently the oven no longer worked as before. It took a longer time to reach temperature and did not sustain temperature properly. For the next year we have tried to get the stove working properly again, to no avail. This has involved purchasing an extended warranted, $522, from Electrolux and 4 technicians visits wherein the temperature control components were replaced twice. Subsequent use revealed a correction was not achieved (25 to 40 degrees F high) the ovens temperature continues to rise significantly above the set temperature, requiring 2 to 3 adjustments to achieve the desired temperature. Adjustments monitored by calibrated third party thermometer. Electrolux will only attempt further repairs: no replacement. Currently we are engaged in a frustrating negotiation with Electrolux to replace our stove. Not going to happen, they will only repair, until the extended warranty runs out.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1478, "id": 452314, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 123, "len_tokens": 202, "text": "<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/05920-Hamilton-Beach-Humidifier-Wick-Filter/dp/B0009H60BM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">05920 Hamilton Beach Humidifier Wick Filter</a>\n\nI have ordered these filters from Filters-Now.com before without any problems, but this is the first time I've ordered them through Amazon with Filters Now as the seller. Unlike the previous filters I've ordered, these have a very strong odor and don't have the same microbe coating as the ones from filters-now.com. The moment I inserted them in the water, they became soaked from top to bottom. Anyone who has had a good filter knows that the microbe coating keeps them from being drenched right away. This coating is essential to protect them from mold and to allow them to last a couple months. These are completely unusable and I wouldn't recommend them.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1479, "id": 304462, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 180, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "This was changed in addition to the thermistor. I was getting extreme temperature (-25 degrees) in the freezer and an ice build up in the drip tray and the bottom of the freezer. You have to remove the back cover that is located inside the freezer. It also involves removing just about all of the freezer drawer holders so the back panel can come out. The thermostat will be clearly visible. The part I received had red and black wires. The one inside the freezer had brown and pink. This was the right part as I confirmed the part number through other online appliance parts stores. This is simply a switch so it doesn't matter which wires get attached to which. The wires from the old switch have to be cut, stripped and then attached to the new switch by way of crimps or butt splices. Look online as there are excellent demos as how to do this even if it isn't exactly the model as yours. Right now my fridge works like new after replacing the thermistor and thermostat.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1480, "id": 317309, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 178, "len_tokens": 216, "text": "We live in FL and use the Danby mainly to store, bottled water, soft drinks and beer on our outdoor lanai.  Since we live in FL, the Danby stays on the lanai all year round and despite temperatures that are often in the upper 80's to mid 90's during a FL summer, the Danby has managed to keep everything nice and cool. The freezer compartment is pretty small, but it has a enough room to keep a few beer glasses chilled or ice cubes handy if that is your preference.  The general refrigeration area of the Danby provides ample room for plenty of the \"liquids\" described above and there are additional slots In its door for soda cans. The door storage can also handle some condiments when you are in the mood to B-B-Q.  The shelves in the main body are adjustable so you can set them to accommodate all sizes of bottles.  We've had the Danby about a year now and we've had no problems whatsoever with it.  Great product for situations that require a small refrigerator.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1481, "id": 101970, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 233, "len_tokens": 266, "text": "This spinner is perfect!\nNice size, quality product, and so easy to use.\nClothes comes out of the spinner with hardly any moisture left in them.\nSome fabrics - such as nylon, polyester, high tech combination fabrics spin great.\nI used the dryer while rving in my trailer - I'd hand wash the clothes then spin dry and hang them up to dry - it was great - saved going to the community laundramat.\n\nIt was fascinating to watch all the water that came out of the hose - just love this product.\n\nOne issue with a spinner is the loads sometimes get off balance - this spinner immediately balanced the load and was efficiently and quickly whipping the water out.\nThere is a short learning curve when you first use the unit - you need to drop the clothes evenly around the barrel.\nI never overloaded the unit.\nI hand washed each piece of clothing and then put that article of clothing into the spinner for 2-3 minutes while hand washing the next piece.\nI was able to quickly wash and spin my clothes daily then hang dry them.\nFor larger items like sheets I sometimes took them to the laudramat just to dy.\nThe spinner took out so much water my sheets dried  really fast in the dryers.\n\nDid not have any problems with the unit - it's a great product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1482, "id": 381858, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 195, "len_tokens": 243, "text": "I have a 4 1/2 yr. old GE 18 cu. ft. frost free refrigerator (no longer under warranty).  First of all this part should not have gone bad in only 4 1/2 years.  The refrigerator handle also literally broke off in my hand not too long ago.  I will not be buying a GE product again however, that being said, the replacement part itself works fine so far and the horrible, loud noise that was coming from the freezer stopped with the new part.  I was able to do the work myself.  I suggest watching a you tube video, it helps even if it's not the same model fridge and be careful you order the correct part.  I took mine out first and got the part number off of it.  I wasn't going to do that but am glad I did because I was originally looking at a similar part and not the correct part number that was triple the cost.  I didn't have to replace the rubber grommets as was suggested by some folks.  It took about an hour start to finish.  We'll see if this part lasts more than 4 1/2 years.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1483, "id": 87252, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "So, this is what life comes down to when you are 50 years old:  reviewing dryer vent cleaners while sitting at your kitchen table waiting for American Idol.  This is not what I envisioned when I was 12, I can tell you that much.  You kids who think it won't happen to you?\n\nIt will.  Sorry to burst your bubble.\n\nThat said, the product works great.  Our dryer pretty much stopped working and we were thinking we needed a new one, which was seriously going to eat into my plastic surgery budget.  One last shot before a trip to the appliance store was this Gardus LintEater.  My husband, who is not the handy one of the family, had to do the work as I have a torn labrum.  (Which sounds dirtier than it is - that's part of your shoulder.)  He, the clumsiest man in the world, had absolutely no problem using this.  I warned him to read the directions first, and he actually listened and followed.  He hooked it up to the drill, and away he went.  He got a bunch of musty, wet lint that had probably been up inside the wall since 1977  - probably consisting of bell bottom material and macram.\n\nNow our dryer actually dries clothes again, and I can continue to save for my facelift. Thank you Gardus.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1484, "id": 100146, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 248, "len_tokens": 285, "text": "Just got this yesterday and I was so excited to use it that I ended up washing 5 loads of laundry in it.  Combined with the Laundry Alternative spin dryer, it made my life much easier. It was bigger than expected but certainly welcomed.  I was able to wash 4 pairs of dress pants in one load and in another, about 6 work shirts with ease. One thing to mention, make sure you put it on a steady surface, preferably elevated or it might get to your back or arms. One thing to recommend is to put in a rubber ball or something similar to simulate the agitation process of a regular washer. It works fine without one as I started off without but it does help with the dirtier clothes.  Only complaint I could come up with is getting the machine to stay still on my stand as the suction cups didn't hold it down very well.  Well, I might have two complaints.  My second one would be the drain pipe did not work all that well. It did drain the water out but it didn't lock in place so I have to hold it.  It does work but it leaks a decent amount so make sure you use a towel under it if you run into similar issues.  Other than that, I love this little guy, already washed 2 weeks worth of laundry in a 1/3 of the time I would spend at the laundry mat.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1485, "id": 157004, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 197, "len_tokens": 244, "text": "My dryer decided to take a few days off recently due to a broken door switch. Most people would probably not consider this an emergency. Not so in my house. The HOA hath drecreed that thou shalt not have clotheslines in thine back yards. Unsightly, I would surmise. So, my wife puts plenty of wear on this necessity of clothes cleaning.\n\nAfter having called Sears, with which I have a warranty, I was told that it would be 10 days before a repairman could come perform the needed repair. Not what I wanted to hear.\n\nNow I'm pressing because the old adage \"if mama ain't happy ain't nobody happy\" came into play.\n\nSo, I begin cruising the internet for parts. And after awhile I said to myself, \"Self, check Amazon. They have everything.\"\n\nSo, I searched Amazon and to what should my wandering eyes should appear? But a SWITCH, and then I chugged my last beer!!\n\nThe desired part arrived just before my wife did bodily harm and I have lived happily ever after.\n\nPOSTSCRIPT: The vendor (Deep Discounts Co.) is great, the part is economical and as advertised, and I can watch my sports programming uninterrupted", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1486, "id": 172692, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 192, "len_tokens": 222, "text": "I usually wait a couple of months till I post a review. This give me a little time to put a product through the paces, but I use my dishwasher pretty often. Maybe 5 to 7 times a week. I did this repair myself with no difficulty. The item was packaged in a custom padded container. Probably some of the most secure packaging I've ever seen. Reading some of the post prior to my purchase leads me to believe the supplier went to great lengths to ensure their product arrived in pristine condition. In my humble oppinion, their mission was certainly accomplished. I then went through the motions to reinstall the pump and motor assembly. I used a YouTube video to assist me. I also used my cell phone to video and snap a few pictures for a \"before & after\" reference documentation. The end of my story... This items works just as good, just as quite as the original factory install. To boot... I saved myself a ton of money. My piece of advise is \"Don't be scared\", the water is fine, so jump on in and do this repair yourself.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1487, "id": 50422, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 210, "len_tokens": 262, "text": "Bosch Nexxt 300 Series Washer & Dryer\nPros:  Good looks, quiet functioning, cleans clothing surprisingly well, low water usage.\n\nCons:  Extremely long cycles for both washer and dryer.  Is the trade off for water efficiency really worth the power it takes to run for an hour+/cycle for both washer and dryer unit (not to mention my time!)?  There is no such thing as doing a quick load of laundry with this pair.  Secondly, the max spin cycle can send it waltzing around the laundry room.  A serviceman gave us four .50 rubber pads for the feet of the washer for a $40 service charge and they work with minor adjustments every several loads.  Ugh.  And lastly, and most significantly, there is a mildew odor to the machine that makes it the most offensive.  I for one do not expect to clean or have someone clean my washing machine or to spend a dime on a product to eliminate mildew as was recommended by the serviceman.  This is not the forever washer I had hoped to have upon ordering it and would never buy another front loader as the cons outweigh the pros. If you are doing your homework and reading this, good for you.  I wish I had done so.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1488, "id": 329674, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 190, "len_tokens": 217, "text": "I've had this for about a week now and seriously love it. We have a fridge with no ice maker and I finally broke down and bought this hoping it would be an ok substitution. It makes quite a bit of ice in a few short hours...I was able to fill a standard ice bin (you know like the ones that go on the door of a freezer) in a couple hours. One tray of water wouldn't even freeze in that same amount of time. It's also really quiet...about as loud as a small fan.\n\nThe downside, for me, is that the ice comes out of the machine pretty wet so when I transfer the ice to the freezer bin it all freezes together. While I'm making ice, every time I go to transfer ice to the freezer I shake the bin around to loosen it. It helped the first couple times but not so much this last time...not sure why. Do I love stabbing ice like a crazy woman to get suitable chunks? No. Do I love that I have a bunch of ice as compared to none? YES.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1489, "id": 235184, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 174, "len_tokens": 210, "text": "The inner box (from manufacturer) was marked as being manufactured by Whirlpool. The manufacturer's box was clearly labeled to keep upright, but it was placed into another larger box by Amazon that was not labeled. Therefore, the shaft of the transmission was beating the end of the manufacturer's box. Hopefully this will not lead to problems later. Fortunately, no oil leaked out of the transmission.\n\nI installed the transmission and it fixed my problem with the rinsing spin cycle. My washer is a Whirlpool Design 2000 model LA6300XPW4 and the transmission fit perfectly. The pump cycle makes a bit more noise than I remember (transmission reverses for this cycle). Maybe my pump is getting worn or maybe this new transmission is a bit more noisy in this cycle.\n\nBe sure to clear out the vent hole of the paint covering before installing. Even with the paint removed, I noticed that paint was still in the vent hole so I had to use a push-pin to clear it out.\n\nAll in all, it works.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1490, "id": 486386, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 222, "len_tokens": 271, "text": "We recently bought Kenmore Elite 30' Gas Cooktop from Sears in San Jose, CA. After less than 45 days, we experienced a low gas flame on our new cook top. We had a professional PG&E technician to test on gas leak and gas pressure. We still had a same problem with Kenmore. So PG&E technician redo every test again and suggested me to contact Sears and Kenmore.\nLocal Sears are only interested to sell and offered useless extended warranty.  The Sears technician needed to re-scheduled and clueless when he was on site for less than 10 minutes: no tool, only confirmed low flame problem.  To make matter worse Sears blamed on PG&E side. I told Sears to schedule another appointment with present from PG&E. It took 3 phone calls and about 3 hours to settle a small matter.\nIf God helps me, I hope to get a replacement of my new Kenmore cook top.  Sears only provides 30 days warranty and Sears owns Kenmore.\n\nBottom Line: Do not buy anything from Sears and Kenmore. If you can do a little bit homework and buy from Amazon: cheaper, far better protection and faster services. The Return Policy from Amazon is awesome.\n\nOne more thing: I had to picked up my cook top from warehouse and Extended Warranty from Sears is waste to money.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1491, "id": 310491, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 193, "len_tokens": 230, "text": "Two weeks ago my LG WM227hw washer stopped draining and displayed the dreaded \"OE\" error code.  After some research and initial trouble shooting, it was clear I would need to replace the drain pump.  I ordered this unit, and spent a couple of days watching videos on how to replace the pump until it arrived.  It's not difficult to replace the pump if you can operate a screwdriver and a wrench, but it does involve a fair amount of disassembly.  Replacement requires removing the top of the washer, control panel, and front (including the door) so you can access the pump.  All in all it's about 15 screws and three spring clips that have to be removed and replaced.  The whole operation took about an hour and a half.\n\nThis unit was a perfect fit to replace the existing pump, and once installed, has been working like a champ while we catch up on the back log.  While it's never fun to spend an afternoon taking apart a major appliance, $25 and a couple of hours work is a whole lot better than calling out a repair guy or buying a new machine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1492, "id": 513138, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 264, "text": "Here some details to get at the motor for replacing carbon brushes on a Bosch Axxis washer:\nThe back part of the washer comes off without removing the top cover. You will need torx T20 bit to do so.\nTo disconnect the ground, in my case a yellow and green wire, I used a turkey pin to press into the eyelet of the male connector. Otherwise the female part does not come off, in contrast to all the videos you will watch. If this doesn't make sense, look at a spare male connector for the ground, you'll get it.\nThe main connector can be just pulled off. Somewhat counterintuitively, you will have to reach around the motor from the other side.\nMy only addition to all the videos that are around for replacing the brushes on the motor is that the springs get inevitably hung up on the metal housing of the brush. Unless you have the dexterity of a neurosurgeon, use the turkey pin to lift snagged spring windings off the terminals and into the \"tunnel\" that holds the carbon brush.\nFor reassembly, watch that the belt sits on the center of the motor shaft. It ain't naturally so.\nOne star subtracted for the somewhat exuberant price and the unavailability of Prime shipping. Good luck.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1493, "id": 77273, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 210, "len_tokens": 243, "text": "These are a great option if you like to protect your stove with foil wrap. We always used foil to protect our stoves from grease or food stains. Even when I got my own house, I wanted to protect my stove top with foil. But it looked terrible. Foil does not look great on a black appliance range. But this was a good replacement. All I had to do was trim the protective sheet to fit my gas range. It fits great. Measure before trimming to make sure you don't cut too big. Keep a mental note though, these feel like a thick piece of paper. They are not thick plastic or anything. So don't be disappointed when you see a thin package when you get this. They do the job and claim to be dishwasher safe. I haven't had to the need to wash these as yet so I can't say it works. Will have to try to know for sure.\n\nUPDATE:\nThese are dishwasher safe! I love it. Makes cleaning easier because I don't have to scrap things off my stove while damaging it. I love these protectors. I cook a lot and mine haven't burned. It really depends on how close you cut them to your range.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1494, "id": 48139, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 194, "len_tokens": 260, "text": "Wow, I'm in love with this treatment, but it is mad expensive.  I have the 2 oz container and I've got about three more treatments before it's gone and I've got quite a bit of hair.  Still, I'm blown away by the price.\nSo, yeah, great conditioner.  My hair absorbed it.  I used my heating cap, but next time I think I won't just because the instructions don't instruct you to use heat.  Detangled quite well.  My hair felt very soft when the treatment was complete.  The smell is divine.  It is very sweet, reminds me of candy, but once rinsed out, the scent doesn't seem to linger for those not into sweet scents.  It's funny that I don't mind paying for the buttercreme but balk at the treatment.  Perhaps because it is a treatment.  Instructions say to use it once per week.  It has the texture of custard.  Did my hair feel siky afterwards?  No, not silky but soft and detangled.  Had I used a rinse, I would have gotten silky, but I was focused on strictly using Miss Jessie's products so that I could rate it properly.  I would purchase this again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1495, "id": 82693, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 204, "len_tokens": 247, "text": "I used this to replace the motor in a Kenmore 90 series electric dryer a few days ago.  I was trying to correct a problem where the dryer was not spinning and was only giving off a low humming noise when I attempted to start it up. It has been running quieter than the original motor and the clothes seem to dry quicker now.\n\nThis was the first time I have replaced a motor in an appliance. I was happy with how easily it went in.  The only difficulty I had was  removing the blower fan.  FYI - after some trial and error I finally ended up having to use two 1/2\" socket wrenches.  I connected an extension bar to one 1/2 \" socket wrench then inserted the square end of the extension bar into the middle of the blower fan, Then I took another 1/2 \" socket wrench with a 7/8 socket attachment and placed it on the belt wheel at the end of the motor. I held the wrench on the belt wheel straight and pulled the wrench on the blower wheel clockwise and it released.  It came off after a few seconds.\n\nEdit - June 2014.  Motor died after 11 months.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1496, "id": 188484, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 179, "len_tokens": 219, "text": "This igniter is a good economic replacement for any brand name appliance. I used it in my G.E ovens broiler. It comes with a mounting bracket and (2) porcelain wire nuts. The mounting bracket fit exactly and lined-up with the (2) mounting holes in the oven. With some of the replacement igniters selling for $40 or more these are a bargain. I purchased (2) so as to have a back-up. This most recent igniter went out the day before Thanksgiving! (Yikes!). With Christmas around the corner I'm taking no chances. Installation is quick and simple: cut the wires and remove the old one, strip the old wires to expose the metal wire and twist a new wire to an old. Finally twist on the porcelain wire nuts. Check for a tight connection by gently tugging each wire; they should remain in the wire nuts and no wire should be exposed. Fasten back in place against the gas manifold. It sometimes takes as long as 90 seconds for the igniter to glow. It did for me and works well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1497, "id": 195915, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 174, "len_tokens": 200, "text": "The dryer is used in conjunction with the portable washer Haier HLP21N.\n\nMy setup is in a downtown condominium where i was unable to install a dryer vent, and unable to run a drain for the washer. This setup is used for 2 active adults.\n\nThe washer does a great job, not a single complaint.. Look up how to get a quick disconnect system on the water supply line, this will make it much easier to use.\n\nThe dryer operates beautifully, it is normal dryer amount of noise. The clothes come out dry and smelling great. I would suggest running this to a indoor dryer vent similar to the ones that are normally purchased with this unit and recommended on the main page. The lint filter that is built in does stop most, but a little gets through. i don't want to deal with dusty laundry lint everywhere.\n\ni would buy this item again, i would recommend it to a friend. we have been using it for more than 8 months now. Very happy!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1498, "id": 471089, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 196, "len_tokens": 250, "text": "Comes with free set of the proper induction rated 7 piece Stainless Steel & glass lid cookware.(9 1/2\" Skillet- 5 quart casarole with glass lid -3 & 5 Quart saucepan with a glass lid each ) I now use it in my Recreational Vehicle in place of Gas cooktop. FAST-fries 2 eggs in cast iron pan from cold start in one min. Brings 1 Gal. pasta water to a full boil in under 12 min.without toxic carbon monoxide fumes - water vapor & waste heat from burning gas in a closed small space as the electronics directly heat only the pot not the glass cooktop or the air. Cooking easily controlled-turn down or turn off & cooking stops dead now !One must be careful not to use too high a heat setting-low to medium works fine most of the time. Can be set to cook by temperature ,but display is in degrees  Celsius.\nEnergy saver - works on 110v AC.I measured the current draw on high @ only 13 Amps AC. so will work on a standard outlet. Would be great for a small apt.\nArrived undamaged due to 4 complete layers of packing - GREAT!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1499, "id": 352606, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 184, "len_tokens": 203, "text": "We searched for a long time to fine just the right range hood and this one has everything we were looking for. We like the stainless steel look which matches our stove. The rounded corners at the front of the hood are a nice touch, no sharp edges to bump into. We also like the lighted blue LED buttons for the fan and lights. They give a high end look to the hood that goes with our range.\n The 4 speed  fan is quit in low and still puts out a lot of air. In high it really pulls a lot of air from the kitchen, but does make some noise doing it, not bad though for all the work it is doing. The only thing I would improve is the wiring. The wiring is not inclosed under the filters. The wiring goes from the back of the hood to the controls in the front in the open just above the filters. Should be a better way. All in all it is a well made range hood and we are very pleased with it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1500, "id": 163364, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 274, "text": "Anyone who owns a SubZero can tell you what a headache it is when something breaks.  Where I live the only \"authorized\" dealer charges a huge service fee to just come out and troubleshoot the issue.  They don't even offer credit if you make the repair.  So when I saw that something simple like this switch on my 690 broke, I was determined to not have to spend a fortune to fix it.  The replacement of this switch is super easy.  Just turn the power off, remove the grill cover, and the switch is right up front over the door.  There is a protective metal cover over both switches that has to be removed first.  The screw is phillips and is on the back side of the cover...kind of hard to see, but you can feel around. After the metal cover is removed, unplug the light switch leads (yellow and orange on my 690) and use a flathead screwdriver to push the tab in while pushing down on the switch with your finger.  It will pop right out. Insert the new switch until the tab clicks into place.  Replace the leads (remember to see which color went where), and you are in business.  It is really that simple.  I saved myself a ton of money and headache waiting on a repair person.  Good Luck!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1501, "id": 72222, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 196, "len_tokens": 233, "text": "Came quick. Works Great. Easy to install. Instructions helped greatly, but it is always good to have a person to help you if possible.\n\nI now live in Brazil and had my dryer shipped from the States. I could not find this kit locally, and resorted to Amazon. I wish it could have been sent directly here, but I had to send it to someone States-side, who then sent it through the mail.\n\nThe only issue I had was that it came with two identical (as far as I could tell) orifices marked with the numbers 54 and 55. The instructions said to use one or the other depending on whether I had propane or butane. I had no idea. The gas canisters here in Brazil are not labeled. I eventually opted to use the one whose threads fit just slightly better, (although both fit).\n\nThe install is very simple and very quick. You will need at least one other person with you to hold up the drum as you take the dryer apart and reassemble it.\n\nOne last note, as the instructions clearly tell you, be very careful. You are working with pressurized gas.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1502, "id": 50818, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 190, "len_tokens": 203, "text": "I got this dishwasher alert gadget because my wife and I have very different schedules and it is hard to keep track of the dishwasher status. I try to help out with dishes as much as I can so it is really helpful when I walk through the kitchen I can just glance at this baby on the dishwasher door to see what needs to be done. If it says dirty I can either load up some more dishes or just run what's in there. If it says clean I can go ahead and unload the stuff.\n\nThe easiest way that we've found to use this is when you start a new load of dishes just flip the indicator to clean. That way you can just go about your business and forget about the dishwasher. The next time you or your spouse is in the kitchen, the cycle will probably be done, and you can easily see that they are clean with just a quick glance. This indicator simply attaches to the dishwasher door via the included adhesive backing so it is ready to go in seconds. We love it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1503, "id": 218293, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 219, "len_tokens": 258, "text": "Better than described! Jeans and heavy fabrics take about 2-3 minutes to spin out the excess water. Sheets and even normal clothing are ready for the dryer in 1-2 minutes. If hanging on a line, even 1 minute is enough for sheets. It can be a bit of a struggle sometimes to get the linen centered just right (especially for sheets and jeans), but it usually is not a problem. It spins super fast and takes very little electricity. It is built well and is a great addition to a mini washer. It only fits about a 1/4 of a normal load of clothes, but considering how fast it spins out the water, it is the fastest part of the washing process and no problem at all.\n\nBeware...It is not a good drying option. I have tried many times to spin dry many loads of light, medium and heavy linen for up to an hour. The sheets can get almost completely dry and with a touch-up in a dryer or on a line would be dry in no time. All other linen will not get much more dry than after the first 2-3 minutes; ready for the line or dryer, but not to be folded and put away.\n\nBest of all: it is compact and not made in China.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1504, "id": 62679, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 179, "len_tokens": 213, "text": "My husband and I were frustrated with our electric cooktop for several reasons and did not want to purchase another electric one.  We began to consider an induction cooktop as gas was not a possibility.  We read all the reviews, consulted Consumer Reports, and decided to try it.\n\nMy husband must have been more excited than he let on, as he had it installed within an hour!  We have had it about six weeks, and so far, we LOVE it.  The variability of cooking levels is  much better than our (good quality) electric cooktop and the instant heat is remarkable.  We live in Arizona, so the idea of less heat in the house during the long summer season is very appealing as well.  I (almost) look forward to cooking, as it functions so well.\n\nIf there are any negatives to consider, it would be that it is a little hard to see where the actual \"burners\" are and that we are still trying to figure out how to keep the surface as shiny and pretty as we would like.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1505, "id": 466437, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 182, "len_tokens": 267, "text": "We bought a Broan E6448TSS with dual centrifugal fans, and sincerely regret it. It sounds just like a helicopter taking off... next to a 150000-volt electrical transmission tower. The ELECTRICAL HUM NOISE is HUGE, and vibrates our entire house, NO MATTER WHAT SPEED is set. We thought it was the controller; but by isolating the fans, determined it is the fan motors. When we called Broan Technical Support, and said our brand-new E6448 was extremely noisy, the lady immediately responded: \"It's a VERY noisy unit!\" {So they KNOW it's a big problem!!!)\n\nBottom line:\nIt looks nice, and has:\nVariable-speed fans,\nAutomatic heat sensor,\nThree lamp receptacles (with difficult to insert lamps)...\nBUT\nWe are not going to use our brand-new kitchen until we FIND A REPLACEMENT FOR THIS BRAND-NEW HUNK OF JUNK my wife unfortunately bought (before the first review).\n\nUPDATE (7/'14):  We solved our problem by adapting our hood to control an external blower mounted near the roof -- see 4-star review at Broan Broan 336 Exterior Blower, 1500-CFM, 3.8-Amps, 120-Volt (Tools & Home Improvement).", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1506, "id": 87956, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "So, this is what life comes down to when you are 50 years old:  reviewing dryer vent cleaners while sitting at your kitchen table waiting for American Idol.  This is not what I envisioned when I was 12, I can tell you that much.  You kids who think it won't happen to you?\n\nIt will.  Sorry to burst your bubble.\n\nThat said, the product works great.  Our dryer pretty much stopped working and we were thinking we needed a new one, which was seriously going to eat into my plastic surgery budget.  One last shot before a trip to the appliance store was this Gardus LintEater.  My husband, who is not the handy one of the family, had to do the work as I have a torn labrum.  (Which sounds dirtier than it is - that's part of your shoulder.)  He, the clumsiest man in the world, had absolutely no problem using this.  I warned him to read the directions first, and he actually listened and followed.  He hooked it up to the drill, and away he went.  He got a bunch of musty, wet lint that had probably been up inside the wall since 1977  - probably consisting of bell bottom material and macram.\n\nNow our dryer actually dries clothes again, and I can continue to save for my facelift. Thank you Gardus.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1507, "id": 59752, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 195, "len_tokens": 219, "text": "I have had the same problems with the machine as everyone else in these reviews, and have had the machine serviced more than four times in the four years we have owned the machine.  Another major problem with the design of this machine is the exhaust fan for the unit is located in the upper, posterior roof of the machine which means it exhausts deep under the counter top.  That probably explains why I have had the exhaust fan burn out and the machine leaves a lot of moisture behind when it finishes.  When the first repair person came out she dis-assembled the front door to get to the fan to replace it (she was unfamiliar with the unit as most dishwashers have the fan in the door to get the moisture and heat out of the unit).  When she could not find the fan she consulted the repair manual and discovered it was in the posterior roof of the machine, well under the counter-top and thus unable to vent properly.  A strange, unfortunate design error.\n\nI should have consulted the Amazon reviews before buying a machine.  I have learned a very expensive lesson.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1508, "id": 142951, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 214, "len_tokens": 259, "text": "Overall a very mediocre experience with this product.\n\nShipping took five days, which is not too bad, but since I payed three times as much for shipping as for the product itself, this seemed a bit slow.\n\nThe thermal cutoff was fine, but the hi-limit thermostat was not as pictured and had little in common with the genuine part it was intended to replace. The screws supplied did not fit their intended holes, making physical installation a hassle.\n\nAs for the electrical connections, the directions for installation were completely unhelpful and incomprehensible-- even now that I know the correct procedure, I still can't figure out what they are supposed to mean. Since the new thermostat didn't match the part it was replacing, it was necessary to cut two wires and crimp new terminals on, which was more than I, with my limited experience, had bargained for. You will need some expert knowledge or at least a good youtube video to make this part work; you'll also need a set of electrician's wire cutters/crimpers.\n\nUltimately the product seems to work, but I hadn't expected such a hassle. Those with experience, tools, and time on their hands will no doubt find this a bargain. All others would be well advised to look for a higher-quality product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1509, "id": 101590, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 191, "len_tokens": 230, "text": "We had a dishwasher that was builder grade.  It was loud, but it cleaned our dishes.  We bought this dishwasher because we wanted a quiet, high quality dishwasher.  Well, it is quiet, but it does not clean the dishes!!\nWe called the store that we purchased the dishwasher from after 1 week, but they would not do anything for us.  They told us we had to call Maytag for any assistance.\nMaytag's suggestions were:\n* Run the hot water in the sink before we run the dishwasher to make sure that the water entering the dishwasher is hot enough to clean the dishes\n* Use more dish washing detergent\n* Completely rinse our dishes before we put them in the dishwasher (even though this dishwasher's description says, \"There's no need to rinse off dried-on food thanks to the ToughScrub option and a powerful 4-blade stainless steel chopper.\")\n* Make sure we load the dishwasher properly.\nSo, for me, this means that I am stuck with a useless dishwasher for the next few years that cost way too much for me to have to go through all these steps for clean dishes!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1510, "id": 154081, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 175, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "Poor quality.  Replaced the two old boards in my Whirlpool refrigerator with the two new ones in this \"kit\"and the ice maker still did not work.  All analysis continued to indicate a problem with the ice maker control boards.  I then did a \"mix and match\" with the two old boards that I had removed.  First I matched the old emitter board with the new receiver board and the ice maker still did not work. Then I matched the new emitter board from this kit with the old receiver board that had been in the refrigerator and the ice make worked.  My conclusion is that the receiver board in this kit was defective. In a perfect world I would have returned this entire kit for a refund.  However, given that I now have the ice maker working I decided to just keep this kit for the emitter board only, rather than returning it and being without the ice maker for a period of time while risking another defective replacement.  I would not recommend this product", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1511, "id": 464296, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 123, "len_tokens": 227, "text": "Specifications & Dimensions\nProduct Overview:\nAppliance Brand: Jenn-Air\nElec. & UNI Accessory Type: N/A\nGeneral Warranty: 1 year parts and labor\nType: Modules\nfor use with: Specified Jenn-Air(r) Expressions(tm) collection\nColor:\nColor: Black\nOverall Color: Black\nTop Surface: Black\nMaterials & Finishes:\nOverall: Ceramic-glass\nTop Surface: Ceramic-glass\nPower Source:\nElectric Supply: 240/208 VAC\nPower Source: Electric\nModular Configuration:\nControls: N/A\nElectric: Ceramic-glass element\nElec. Cooking Module:\nCleanability: Fingerprint-resistant top\nDesign Look: Flush design\nEase of Use: Zone outline for pot placement\nElement Configuration: Standard: 1 Ultra Quick-Start(tm), 1200 watts\nElement Type: Radiant\nNo. of Elements/Cooking Zones: 2\nPerformance: Use flat bottom cookware for best results\nSafety Features: Thermal limiter protects element\nGas Cooking Module:\nGas & UNI Accessory Type: N/A", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1512, "id": 90237, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 180, "len_tokens": 230, "text": "I installed this about a month ago and am extremely happy with it.\nOur water is very hard (12-14 grains/gal).  We did not want to install a whole house water softener because of how they waste water and dump salt water into the sewer during regeneration.\n\nWith the newly reformulated phosphate free detergents, our hard water caused issues with chalky white film being left all over the dishes, glasses, silverware and dishwasher interior.  We were wasting time and water having to rewash, etc. to deal with the results from the lousy reformulated detergents.\n\nInstallation was easy.  After I installed the Dishwasher Filter, with one cycle, everything was completely spotless even when using the phosphate free detergent.  I also verified the filter was softening the water using water hardness test strips.  Prior to entering the filter, hardness was 14 grains.  After the filter, hardness was 0-1 grains.\n\nThe only thing I am concerned about is how long the filter cartridge will last before it needs to be replaced.  I am guessing three to four months but will watch and see.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1513, "id": 193211, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 209, "len_tokens": 236, "text": "Worked great for the first 18 months (thus the two stars) - and then like many other units purchased - it just died... apparently that is the issue with this model....  it gives you about 12 to 18 months and then one of three things happens, the sensor goes berserk, the control board fries or the entire circuit board dies... my issue was the entire circuit board... and as others have mentioned the seller not to be confused with the manufacturer... is easy to get a hold of and at least the customer service person I spoke to - does show some concern and apologizes for the issue... and quickly offers (as they know this product has issues) to send a replacement part... (3 year warranty)... but clearly the replacement part (at least in my experience so far is more of a gesture than a solution)... and while I'm not Bob Villa - I'm handy enough to do some minor wiring - I was told they would send me a video on how to install the replacement part myself - they sent an amateur jpeg that lacks any real helpful detail. The directions are very brief seem to leave out some important details... .. frustration is mounting...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1514, "id": 70884, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 194, "len_tokens": 247, "text": "This dishwasher functions as nothing more than an expensive sterilizer. Forget LG's claim that you don't have to scrape dishes: I have to actually wash dishes clean before loading them because (1) besides not removing any food particles, the heat also \"bakes\" any particles into my dishes, and/or (2) a fine grit covers my dishes, even when using a gel detergent. We purchased our dishwasher in July 6,2010 and I noticed right away that dishes weren't coming clean. I spent the first three months working my way through the user's manual and trying various detergents before finally calling LG. During the first service visit it was determined that the bottom spray arm wasn't working; the part was ordered and two weeks later replaced. However, the problem with dishes not coming clean continues, even after four service visits. LG's customer service is AWFUL. There's not enough space here to go into the details, but suffice it to say that I'll NEVER purchase another LG. The latest aggravation came today when an LG engineer blamed the poor performance on the government banning the use of phospates in cleaners. Frustrated. Aggravated. Mad. Life is NOT good.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1515, "id": 65854, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 198, "len_tokens": 234, "text": "We just ordered a new washer and dryer so figured what better time to clean the dryer vent. They have NEVER been cleaned since we moved into the house in 2001. I have about 22 feet of ducting So I also ordered the extension kit. I cleaned from the outside with the dryer running. Each rod is 3 feet and you stop and attach each rod as the previous rods are inserted..I wound using a total of 7 rods so I made it almost to the dryer itself. (The kit comes with a shield you can put on the dryer to prevent the brush from actually going into the dryer..I didn't use it). There's a 90 degree bend about 15 feet in and the rods navigated through it without issue. I was absolutely SHOCKED at how much lint came flying out as I performed the cleaning. You can be sure this is something I will be performing yearly from now on. Be sure to follow the directions carefully..especially the part about setting drill torque and rotation direction...you don't want anything to come apart in the vent. (Gardus will supply you with a rod retrieval tool if needed)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1516, "id": 83671, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 194, "len_tokens": 232, "text": "This range hood was installed in my kitchen yesterday. After much struggling, and a full day of effort, it took two grown men to properly install. It didn't come with bulbs, so those had to be purchased separately ($9.00 - $15.00 for a pack of 3). That's when the \"fun\" began. Each bulb's prongs must be precisely lined up with the slots and then turned clockwise. But of course, you cannot see the slots! And installing them after the hood is in place means having to bend yourself at an uncomfortable angle under the hood as you fumble to find the bulb slots. Be forewarned - it took almost two full hours to install the bulbs! Note, that the instructions direct you to install the bulbs last, but if you decide to purchase this item, I highly recommend that you install the bulbs before you bolt it to the underside of your cabinet. Oh yes, it has two speeds - low - which accomplishes nothing, and high, which sounds like a jet taking off. In short, the range hood is poorly designed and simply not worth the hassle that it takes to install.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1517, "id": 498884, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 158, "len_tokens": 206, "text": "This is exactly what I needed.  This is the one part that did not come in the Agitator Cam Kit that I bought from Amazon at the same time.  It came in an OEM Whirlpool package.  It has been working very nicely ever since I installed it.  And the install is very simply with a flat-head screwdriver and socket/ratchet.  Probably only took me 15 minutes total.\n\nThe last time I repaired this problem I only replaced the dogs, and the repair did not last very long (maybe 6-9 months).  Obviously wear in some of the other kit parts increases wear on the dogs as well.  I would recommend using the full kit for your model, such as \"Whirlpool 285748 Agitator Cam Kit\".  Just make sure you do your research to determine which kit is right for your model.  Another similar kit for a different model of washer than mine is \"Whirlpool 285811 Agitator Repair Kit for Washer\".", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1518, "id": 80612, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 171, "len_tokens": 202, "text": "Most houses these days come with a standard size fridge (and the majority seem to sport the horrid side-by-sides that can't fit squat in the freezer section), so my husband and I bought our Gladiator a few years ago.  We never attached the ice maker and use it with the freezer portion on bottom and for extra fridge capacity on top if needed.  It's been worth its weight as we live in AZ with garage often hotter than 115 through several summer months.  This refrigerator allows me to do mega-shopping trips only once a month to stock and keep everything.  We've never had a problem with it and are very happy to have spent the money.  It is expensive, I suppose, for something kept in a garage -- but since it's held up with no problems for about 7 years, it's worth the price.  My SubZero in the house has had two repairs already in that same time frame -- and I paid a heck of a lot more for it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1519, "id": 214221, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 202, "len_tokens": 250, "text": "I received my dryer just a few days after ordering it--very fast and more quickly than I expected! I live in a very small house and usually hang my clothes outside on the clothesline as I do not have anywhere to plug in a regular dryer.  This dryer is small and actually fits into a corner in my bedroom.  It drys clothes slowly, but works well. (If you put in a small dry piece of clothing in, the wet clothes dry faster!).  It is a 110, though, so drying time can be long and the heat doesn't ever get \"hot\", just warm.  However, since it's just me, it's fine. The dryer is very lightweight and easy to move from one place to another.  The only \"bad\" thing I really have to say about it is that the lint trap is on the BACK...terribly inconvenient, especially if you have the dryer mounted on a wall (mounting attachments come with dryer).  I still hang out a lot of things, but often, I throw my clothes in to remove cat hair and wrinkles. I also still take large blankets, etc. to the laundromat to dry but overall I'm quite satisfied with the product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1520, "id": 5763, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 221, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "I had been buying the smaller, pre-packaged drop in tablet sold by the same brand. I found that these worked well, but needed to be changed often in order to be effective. I bought this on a whim, though I was a little frightened by the extreme safety warnings on the bottle.\n\nWhen the bottle arrived, I followed the instructions to a T- and only used a cap full of the product per gallon as directed on the bottle. I made sure not to spill any of it on my hands or skin. Since my humidifier has a huge reservoir, I only have to change it once per week. After a week of using this product, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the filters were still clean and there was no buildup of mold or slime.\n\nThe only downside of this product is that after pouring in the solution, there is a noticeable chemical smell to the mist coming out of the humidifier. After a few hours, I find that the smell dissipates. I find that if I run the humidifier a couple of hours before I'm going to bed, the chemical smell is gone and doesn't bother me. Otherwise, I think this product is good and much more cost effective than the drop in tablets I had previously used.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1521, "id": 230195, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 171, "len_tokens": 205, "text": "I have a Kenmore 90 series.  I looked up the replacement part number from Sears.  I brought this one with the same part number, at a fraction of the cost, plus probably save me a hundred for labor.  It fits and looked the same.  If this switch fails in the future, I may just short the two outer wires to remove the safety feature.  Nobody ever really interested in going into the laundry room, and put their hands in the washer.\n\nI suggest a new approach to trouble shooting by those who can't nor don't want to afford professionals.  Look at what is the most popular replacement part of your model.  This is it.  So I test if the old switch failed and it was.\n\nWhen my last washing machine failed there was no Youtube.  I was surprised how easy it is to open up the machine.  It is a little more complicated and messy if you have detergent, fabric softener and bleach dispensers on the outer casing with tubes attached.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1522, "id": 257169, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 181, "len_tokens": 245, "text": "I wasn't surprised to see that OEM Samsung filters were significantly more expensive than aftermarket.  I was, however, surprised at the performance - or lack thereof - of these filters.  We have a Zero Water pitcher and use that as the standard.  We use an HM Digital ZT-2 meter to test for particulates in the water.  [...]I don't consider this to be super-scientific, but it allows you to compare one filter/faucet to another.  The 7 month old Samsung filter that I removed gave us a reading of 185 PPM.  I put the EcoAqua filter in, ran over 300 ounces through it to flush it, and tested - 241 PPM.  Then I tested pure tap water, right from the faucet - 257 PPM.  By contrast bottled \"spring water\" gives a reading <100.  It almost seems like there's nothing to these filters, so I'll be requesting a refund.  For that level of filtration, or lack of filtration, I'm actually better off leaving a 7 month old OEM filter in place than I am replacing it with a brand new EcoAqua filter.  Very disappointing.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1523, "id": 187720, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 195, "len_tokens": 234, "text": "My new review, less than 6 months after purchasing... The product did not arrive in official GE packaging. They arrived loose in a padded envelope. The product also has no product number or markings on it, which means it is generic, and not a true GE replacement part. I only needed one replacement strap, but bought 4 since I was informed to replace all of them. Thank God I kept my old straps. Not long after my orginal review I had one strap break. It left a rubbery black residue when I removed it, which I assume is from cheaper materials. Around the 2 month mark I had 2 more straps break. And, in the past week the other one finally broke also. Don't waste your money. I owned my washer for over 2 years with no issues with the straps until I purchased these. Also, when I purchased this (end of October 2014) it was only $8.99 so save yourself the hassle and buy from a different company. My original review: \"I installed this product over a month ago, and they have been working great!! I would highly recommend purchasing from this company!\"", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1524, "id": 130004, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 169, "len_tokens": 204, "text": "Since 2016, Ive ordered these specific Samsung filters directly from the reorder in my cart amazonunfortunately something has changed and the filters no longer fit. I even checked if a cap was stuck (other users have reported this)thats not the issue. Please note the differences in the models.  The model in the right of the pictures (pink x on it) is the working model. They are clearly made differently and its visible. If you look closely the working model is imprinted 85-926...and the non working model doesnt have this. The non working model as AL29 on water filter sticker. Are these counterfeit or has Samsung messed up on their manufacturing?\n\nUpdate: I wrote amazon regarding my concern of fake reviews left my negative review and my concern for those still unknowingly drinking from these counterfeit filters. I hope this will help someoneI went to Lowes and purchased an authentic Samsung filter it fits perfectly. Please don't try to save a couple of bucksits simply not worth your health.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1525, "id": 544406, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 181, "len_tokens": 208, "text": "We bought this 5 mos ago. 3 mos into our owning it, the washing machine portion completely stopped working. With a load of laundry trapped inside (door locked and wouldn't open). I called customer service immediately but it took over a MONTH for it to be fixed! I have a toddler plus a 8-wk old infant at home so we produce quite a lot of laundry. I tried explaining this to the customer service people, begging then, even at one point broke down in tears on the phone - it's hard enough having an 8-wk old baby let alone dragging your laundry to a laundromat for a full month bc your brand new washer isn't working! they clearly did not care. I got the same canned replies every time and there was no sense of urgency to fix it. I would never buy from this brand again! Oh also the lint trap in the dryer is much too small causing lint to get all over your freshly washed clothes - even if you clean the trap out with every load.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1526, "id": 66979, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 200, "len_tokens": 231, "text": "I have purchased one of the Emerson Ice Makers. I have actually had two of them. The first one as soon as I gave it several hours to settle I put water into it and proceeded to soak everything in my kitchen. Promptly returned it to Target and got a replacement. I was informed by the salesperson that this was a fairly common problem. I took the maker home and once again let it sit for several hours. Plugged the machine in filled with water, no leaks, ran for an hour or so made a bucket full office. I figure it was great. Put the machine in my 5th wheel and finally got to go camping 2 months later. Plugged in the unit filled with water and let it run overnight. Not a single ice cube. I had discarded the box and of course the receipt with it. Called Target and go figure no receipt no help. Tried to contact Emerson and their company response was return it to where you purchased it. No warranty help just return to the store. Emerson ice makers are a crap shoot. 50-50 chance on working. Stay away from them in my honest opinion.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1527, "id": 266143, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 212, "len_tokens": 265, "text": "This range has been great!  It is quite beautiful and so far, works as claims.  Because it is installed as a slide-in without an upsweep on the countertop, we needed to use the corner trim pieces.  This was never clear in any of the literature and information regarding the oven.  Thus, in the corners near the wall, there are two plastic pieces to hide the hole that otherwise would be there. (See 1st photo)  If only the oven had been designed a bit better to take care of that.  However, in the scheme of things, it is minor.  The center grill is absolutely great!  I will agree with other reviews that state the control panel is a bit too sensitive.  Every time I lean over the over to clean or adjust something, I hit the control panel.  Cleaning it is next to impossible without hitting one of the buttons.  Maybe in the future, they can come up with an on/off button for cleaning.  I have used most of the features on this oven and I love it.  Having two ovens is great, even for the two of us.  Would not hesitate to recommend this oven.  Second photo shows installed oven.  We have not yet completed our remodel, so there is no backsplash.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1528, "id": 40098, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 166, "len_tokens": 213, "text": "I bought these caps to cover small rust spots forming on the tips of our dishwasher rack.  We rent the home and knew the landlord would not want to replace the appliance.  But the rust was leaving spots on our expensive dishes.  I bought the pack of 25 caps only and glued them with a plumbers Goop product I already owned.  It worked fine, but I was short 2 caps in the packet.  The company immediately sent me the replacements, plus a couple extra.  Not many companies would do this.\n\nTips:  If you notice stains on your dishes, check the rack.  If you see rust, buy these caps or the cap and glue kit.  I recommend removing the dishwasher racks (easy) and inspect the entire rack.  If you notice wear on the joints/welds or main bars, buy the kit with the Ubergoop paint/glue.  Follow the directions to scuff and clean before gluing.  If your situation is like ours, you can save an otherwise good working dishwasher!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1529, "id": 200259, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 213, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "I picked this up hoping to fix the infamous F35/SUDS error.  Before buying this part I opened and cleaned out the drain filter and disconnected the drain line right where it connects to the drain filter.  There was one of my kids socks in there.  Definitely give that a try first.  After still receiving the error I went back to this video [...] and decided to replace the pressure switch.  Other FAQs on this issue say something about water getting in that line and messing up the chip.  Mine was dry and showed no signs of ever being wet.  So I was a bit worried it was one of the other parts that had the issue.  Luckily the new pressure switch fixed the error, and removing that sock also made a big difference in how well the laundry was getting cleaned.  It's disappointing that this one overly expensive part seems to fail on so many units.  Other than that issue my washer has been great (Maytag 5000 series).  Also props to Amazon for allowing me to upgrade my Prime 2-day shipping to next day for only $4 more.  My kid was sick and vomited on a lot of stuff and of course the washer decided to go out at the same time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1530, "id": 486885, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 138, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "I can't compare the performance of this part vs. the original, since our used 'fridge came with our house, but it along with this part... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ZNBY82/ref=cm_cr_ryp_sol_prd_image ...\n\n...our bottom shelves don't hang down onto the crisper drawers anymore.  Since I consider this a vast improvement, I give the full 5/5 stars in this review, but, truth be told, I'm a little disappointed that both these parts bend slightly under the weight of a fully loaded shelf--not a lot, but enough to make me wonder if I'm going to need replacements.  (It could just be that we load our bottom shelf with all the heaviest items.)\n\nLuckily, for a few bucks I can get replacements parts in 2-3 days if/when these break.\n\nThe items have been installed for 3-4 months seem to be holding up well despite the bending.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1531, "id": 301137, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 210, "len_tokens": 256, "text": "I bought this to replace an 11+ year old LG 2.3 cu. ft. compact all-in-one washer/dryer that finally shook itself to pieces. So far, this new model is much nicer! The \"True Balance\" feature of the new washer really does generate less vibration during the spin, and I have the unit installed on the 2nd floor of an old house with hardwood floors, so vibration matters. The old model shook the whole house at times, but I've been very happy with the reduced shaking of this one. It still does shake a bit, but much, much less than before.\n\nWe also had problems with the old model not drying well, which tends to be a problem with ventless condensing dryers. Even that is improved somehow with the new model. So far, everything has come out perfectly dry - without the need for additional drying cycle. Part of this could be because the new model is much bigger than our old one, and I think we had a tendency to overload the old one, which can decrease dryer performance.\n\nBottom line: I'm very happy with the new one so far, and glad I decided to stick with the LG all-in-one, despite some of the issues we had with the old model.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1532, "id": 209357, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 170, "len_tokens": 207, "text": "That is a lot for a washer and a dryer, so I hope you have a nice house and a family. It will last you a long long time. Its true that appliances like refrigerators and washer and dryer sets used to last a lot lot longer than today. But people are fickle, and like to change in midstream. I really don't know what happened to sears. The 1982 catalog was the last one they did, they were done in on Jan 16 1983, with the rest of the middle class. The problem with the washer and dryer is it takes too long too wash and dry, and the washer needs scrubby tools on the inside. Sears used to build everything. They had everything. They really need to bring back the Sears catalog despite being a powerful online overseas company, thats ok but we need to keep America strong, rebuilding sears may never happen, its just too expensive. I still have my 1982 sears catalog. Garry Hixon and Tracy Hixon", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1533, "id": 421175, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 156, "len_tokens": 200, "text": "I have KENMORE ELITE fridge, Model-79572069212, that is compatible with Water Filter, product number ADQ36006102. I have been going without a water filter for months now because I refuse to spend $58 for the LG filter, which is the manufacturer recommended filter, that came with the fridge. When I was given the opportunity to purchase this generic filter and review it for a discounted price, I jumped on the opportunity. I love having the piece of mind, knowing that my family is getting clean, filtered water...and for a reasonable price. The water tastes normal with no after taste. This generic filter fits perfectly and installed quickly and easily. Just a word of advice from my mistake: you may have to take out a shelf to get the water filter cover lowered far enough down to install the water filter. Great deal for a great water filter...compatible with my Kenmore Elite fridge (79572069212) and filter (ADQ36006102).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1534, "id": 536626, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 181, "len_tokens": 226, "text": "Although I found the Brasscraft Braided Line to be of high quality:  I simply could not get the \"garden hose\" end of this Brasscraft supply line to adequately seal with my Bosch SHE863WF5N dishwasher for the reason outlined below . . .\n\n1.  The Brasscraft brass inner shaft (integral with the 90 elbow fitting) runs entirely through the thickness of the rubber seal.\n2.  My Bosch dishwasher has a plastic screen which is positioned inside the Bosch threaded male fitting and firmly held just below the thread initiation surface.\n3.  When the Brasscraft female thread is tightened onto the Bosch male thread:  unwanted \"hard\" contact is made between the Brasscraft brass tube and the Bosch screen such that the seal cannot be \"squeezed\" enough to adequately seal.  See attached photos.\n\n  There are several other elbow seal designs which do not have the inner tube material and where the seal is simply held in place at the outside seal diameter within the \"garden hose\" female thread (as shown in photo).  This style of elbow worked very well with my Bosch dishwasher.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1535, "id": 352211, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 221, "len_tokens": 263, "text": "I just updated my review from 3 stars to 5 stars.  I have never owned such a product, but we were getting quite a bit of food debris in-between the cabinets and the stove.  I ordered these, but apparently put them on facing the wrong direction.  When my husband used our wide gas burner, the flame reached the strip and melted part of it.  At that time, I realized we needed to face the narrow side toward the burners and the wide side toward the counter tops.  Within 24 hours of my first review, I was sent a new set of seals by the retailer.  Since we started using them, I have turned the oven to 500 degrees and there has been no change in the silicone.  We have also had no problems with the flames melting the narrower edges.  I also like how the silicone is soft and flexible.  I can easily run them under the water and wash them with a bit of dish soap to remove the grease splatters.  They were a bit long for our counter top but they cut very easily with kitchen scissors.  I have since recommended them to my mother as hers are not silicone and they slide all over her counter top.  These remain \"stuck\" because of the silicone. I highly recommend these!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1536, "id": 181232, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 188, "len_tokens": 223, "text": "There are over 100 five-star reviews on this washing machine covering all points: don't fill water to the top, use minute quantity of detergent, respect the load recommended; replace the brittle hose with another one. Ours is next to the bathtub where filling water and draining is a breeze. But even if you fill water leaving a space, agitation makes water splash out of the draining hose (that hooks on the machine during washing). I slimmed down a wine cork to the opening of that hose and voila, no more splashes.\n\nInitially bought to replace hand washing. For those who wash in hot water, it can take up to 60C but not higher - otherwise it deforms the plastic cavity. We have taken this on vacations and it is awesome. Just soak in it the night before, and turn the machine the next day - after changing the water. Fifteen-minutes (timer) is ample time to wash a soaked item and the clothes come out clean. We run a cycle with vinegar to prevent water hardening. We have it since almost two years and happy of its performance.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1537, "id": 402460, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 165, "len_tokens": 212, "text": "This is a monster.  I'm 70+ & even though I can move this without any problem, the washer is a tangler just like my previous (Panda) was.  The spinner on it is awesome.  The hassle of not being able to connect it right out of the box without much frustration and ending up buying a new shower head to fill it with; a bucket turned out to be the easier option, but tiring.  The fact that it takes up a bit more room in my already limited space just doesn't make me want to keep this thing.  BE WARE.  I asked about a return (at my expense) and the offer of only an $8 discount to keep it is a joke.  Will continue to use my 13-gallon basket and my Washing Wand.  Does the trick with just as much exercise/labor involved.  Just much easier.  Very disappointed in this unit and the seller's offer of a whopping $8 discount to keep it.  I'm going GREEN next.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1538, "id": 430938, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 248, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "While not a permanent solution, it has improved the situation immensely.\n\nI tried the blow dryer method. Took 10-15 mins and was fully effective. The blockage came back within a few hours of non-use. I tried the string trimmer line method and while it was a quick way to get rid of the blockage, it only took about an hour of non-use for the ice to return. The flaw with this trick is that the string takes up space in the tube which means there's less water to freeze so it happens more quickly.\n\nThe IceSurrender tool gets to the problem and because it removes all the ice, the line stays clear much longer with non-use. The first day, the line was clear up to the time we went to bed. It was frozen up in the morning so I used the tool again. The line was clear all day and did not freeze up over night.\n\nI know I've got an ongoing problem that needs to be addressed, but this tool has reduced the time it takes to unblock the water line (it takes longer to microwave the water to put into the tool) and has kept the line clear longer than any of the other methods and that's because it's clearing out all the ice with the hot water. The other methods are unreliable when it comes to knowing you've cleared the line. This is the one method you can count on to clear the ice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1539, "id": 444421, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 211, "len_tokens": 257, "text": "The cooler was double boxed so it arrived with no damge.  I had no intention on stocking it with 126 cans so I removed three of the shelves.  In this configuration I can stand mixers on the floor of the cooler, I have wine bottles laying on their side on the next shelf and beer bottles and canned drinks can stand upright on the third shelf.  This meets our needs perfectly.  I have the temperature set at 6 (out of 7) and it is keeping our drinks cold.  The  light does have to be turned on manually, it does not come on automatically when you open the door.  The cooler is a little noisey when cooling.  It is not loud and doesn't interfere with watching TV but there is a noticible hum.  I don't consider it a problem but others might.\nThe cooler is not meant to be an undercounter built-in cooler,although I am using it as an undercounter cooler. So far it is working just fine.  The space it occupies was for a larger unit so I think there is enough space around it and behind it to dissipate the heat.\nWe are very pleased with this cooler; with the way it works, with it's looks and it's price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1540, "id": 19183, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 177, "len_tokens": 232, "text": "So glad to have the best filter in the frig.  No comparison to comparable filters. Takes out much, much more toxins. Love it.\nUPDATE: It has been almost a month and the red light indicator to change the filter has not turned green since installation.  This has happened before when the filters were not genuine G.E. filters.  I am wondering if it is not genuine, or if it is a faulty filter.  So, because of this issue, i have lowered my review from 5 stars to one star until such time as a representative from the seller will contact me and make good on my purchase.  I was so happy i had a genuine G.E. and now I'm.confused and hope I'm.not poisoning ouselves.\nIN ADDITION, my purchase was on March 14, 2018, I am writing this today, April 10, 2018.  I don't know why amazon posted October of 2017, as the purchase date, as that is incorrect.\nIf i have to return this, i will have to buy bottled water for days until i get another  filter.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1541, "id": 103536, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 164, "len_tokens": 215, "text": "This is the 2nd unit that I have had in the last 3 months.  The first one made loud noises, and guess what this one does after the 30 day guarantee, at about the 70 day mark, yup, you guessed it, makes loud noises, and doesn't cool.  It is a big paper weight now, sitting in my house, not chilling my stuff!  Now I must find out how I can get a refund, or something.  This unit SUCKS!  I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND purchasing this item.  It will fail on you, and you will be stuck with a unit that does not work soon after receiving it.  The first one died on me within 20 days.  This one just took a little longer.  They did send me another replacement unit, but now it's been 70 days, and I'm pretty much out of luck it seems.  Hope to find out something about this unit for refund, not replacing this time around!  DO NOT BUY THIS PRODUCT!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1542, "id": 65699, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 196, "len_tokens": 238, "text": "We have about 25 feet of vent pipe (Dumb if you ask me).  My new dryer was not drying at all.  However, after ordering, watching videos, and reading the instructions.... I am super happy to say... HOLY COW the lint we cleaned from the vent line.  I am not kidding when I say it was literally a shop vac full.  This process did take some time, but only because of how my venting system was designed.  We did get into the attic and pull the pipes apart to continue cleaning.  And then on the roof where we found a complete blockage. We would not have discovered any of this without this tool.  I am happy to say that I love my dryer now!  It is amazing how fast things dry, and I am completely amazed at the amount of lint that we removed.\n\nI HIGHLY recommend this product.  I promise after you see the fire hazard of lint that you see after using this product, you will be cleaning once, maybe twice a year.  My BF doubted that this product would get the job done.  Let's just say he and my dad were very impressed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1543, "id": 266606, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 187, "len_tokens": 206, "text": "While this is a perfect replacement as far as fitting my dishwasher, I only give this one star because this part as well as the original part that came on the dishwasher needs replacing at least once a year. We really have no other choice but to keep ordering this replacement part if we want to use our dishwasher. The plastic prongs that hold it to the basket break off after normal regular use. They get brittle and just pop off. You know you have lost one when you hear a grinding noise as the prong goes through the disposer of the machine. One time a prong clogged the pump opening and dishwasher would not run. My husband had to take the dishwasher apart to clear it. This is a very poor design, one which most owners of this dishwasher experience and complain about. You would think Samsung would get with it and make a replacement of metal so we don't have to keep fixing this problem. Due to this issue, I will not purchase another Samsung dishwasher until they solve this problem once and for all.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1544, "id": 142376, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 195, "len_tokens": 222, "text": "I finally saw what the other reviewers meant when they said that the connections were a bit different. This isn't that big of a problem because the baggie they send it in also includes a piece with two terminals (gold piece in the picture), you can just cut off the old one and, strip the wire and  crimp the new one in, and now you have an extra terminal you can connect the included jumper wire to, to complete the connection to the heating element. I also had to rotate it to make it fit, and find an extra screw to make it solid (previous thermostat only used one screw and was installed vertically, but I installed this new one horizontally, making use of both screw openings). This is actually a bit more solid than the way it was before.\n\nMy only complaint is that the terminal they included (gold piece) felt a bit soft and flimsy, like it was going to break while I was connecting everything together, but thankfully it didn't.\n\nAside from all that, the actual components have been working pretty good for a past few days, no problems thus far.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1545, "id": 338613, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 182, "len_tokens": 206, "text": "Working perfect, if you receive the one pictured be prepared to cut your original wiring connector off and splice on a couple of single connectors to connect the wiring to new pump motor. I can only say that on my Whirlpool model #WFW8300SW05 this was the case and I was prepared for this after closely looking at the location of the 2 connector points on replacement motor prior to ordering. One other thing to note is it can take some force to separate original pump motor from the housing, keeping in mind that it is hard plastic be careful as to not crack the housing. I decided to be safe and make sure I could get it separated before ordering just the pump motor by itself. I already had the contact connectors and 2 butt connectors so this took me less than 15 min to reinstall. The only reason for 4 stars and not 5 is they should mention the electrical connector may be different and throw in the needed connectors. Also thanks to Amazon I got next day delivery for 3.99", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1546, "id": 464369, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 176, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "I have have good old name brand washing machines all my life. But this time around I thought I would get something upscale. I purchased this model and a matching dryer.\n  The dryer failed within about a year but that's for another review.\nAll I can say is do not spend your money on a Miele product. This was the worst experience I've had with any product. From customer service on down.\nMachine stopped working and so I called the Miele showroom I purchased from. They were quick to say they only sell and pass me off to a tech support number.\nTech support tells me they will send someone over. Yes I will pay for the service call. Guy shows up and like other reviews it needs bearing for the drum. Ok how much can bearing cost? Well before or after the ship your machine out of state? Yup shipping at your cost. Total damages would be as much as a new machine.\nThat's a giant ripoff for such a high end machine.\nNever again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1547, "id": 283158, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 191, "len_tokens": 224, "text": "We bought the icemaker a month or so ago. At first, I thought it would be one of those products that you might regret buying but it's been anything but that so far. We've used the heck out of it. We seem to consume a lot of ice at this house. We're always buying ice in town to help keep up with the demands. That gets a little old toting bags of ice in from town all the time. So, we decided on buying the Igloo Icemaker. It takes about an hour or so and you can have a refrigerator freezer full of ice in the basket. The ice comes out in 7 piece intervals usually within 7 minutes of each other. It has a 3-prong plug in. You just lift the lid and add water as it says in the instructions, choose large or small ice and wait for the ice to fill up in the basket. It's pretty simple stuff. The best part is we purchased it for less than half price. It's been a pretty sweet purchase for us so far. The photo shows the SMALL size ice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1548, "id": 341014, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 186, "len_tokens": 220, "text": "This is quite an amazing little device for the price. The original reason I purchased this unit was to use when making fermented sausages and salumi where temperature and humidity are critical to the process. Currently it is being used to log the temperature of a batch of beer that is fermenting in a re-purposed refrigerator. The refrigerator also has a heater inside, the cooling and heating being controlled by another InkBird device, an ITC-308.\n\nI have an extra long usb cable attached to the TCH-4 routed to the outside so that I can download the data without removing the device from the refrigerator or opening the door. The software is very easy to use. I checked the accuracy of the sensor against a digital medical thermometer and it was within 0.5F. The software has an adjustable offset for calibration. I was so impressed that I ordered a second unit so that I can log the temperature of the refrigerator space as well when fermenting beer. Having a humidity reading for brewing beer is not necessary but an absolute must when making fermented sausages and salumi.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1549, "id": 149724, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 183, "len_tokens": 249, "text": "These didn't cut the mustard with my mambo machine.  A Whirlpool Duet, naturally.  I had the thing on solid wood floor (single story), and leveled.  After it's maiden dancing exhibition, I looked for an answer and was impressed with the reviews for the pads.  Got them, sat the beast on them, and leveled it again.  Stuffed the soiled laundry into it's gaping hole, and waited for the performance.  Hey! Mambo-Italiano!  Just another rerun.  Although the dance did seem a little less violent than before.  Anyhow, I've just rid myself of the dancing queen and bought a Samsung.  WORLD of difference!  On my old beast, I couldn't put anything on top of it.  Even with a towel underneath during any spin sequence, it'd be on the floor.  You can hardly hear the spin cycles on the new one.  I'm glad most here got the benefit of these pads for their machines.  And there probably wasn't a fix in store for mine except to go live in a thrift store somewhere.  I can only relate my experience of their interaction with a dysfunctional washer.  Sad.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1550, "id": 297028, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 218, "len_tokens": 270, "text": "This washer is loud and is giving a \"smoke\" like smell when it is working. I am not sure whether it is normal or not. Website description is accurate and honest. Every time I need  to wash, I need to 1) manually fill in water and make sure that water is below the limit. 2) set timer for washing 3 set it to drain 4) manually fill in water again and make sure that water is below the limit 5) set timer to rinse 6) I may have to do a 2nd rinse or 2nd washing if needed. 7) manually drain 8) manually put half of the load into spin basket 9) set timer for spin 10) manually put remaining half  of the load into the spin 11) set timer for spin. As spin basket can take only half of the washing basket, I need to spin twice for everything wash. You can tell how much time this machine cost you for one load of wash. I found automatic washing machine with only $100-$150 higher elsewhere. Basically, you put water and load in, turn it on and it does all washing, draining and spinning by itself. I think it makes better sense to spend extra $100-$150 to save A LOT TIME to do something more meaningful and productive.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1551, "id": 184761, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 213, "len_tokens": 239, "text": "I purchased a house not long ago and all the kitchen appliances been used Kenmore brand, this is the first time I need to replace the water filter from the refrigerator.\nAfter install H2O taste fine no funny taste at all, great filter system and easy to install DIY 1,2 3.\n\nJust a friendly advise for the first timer to replace this water filter, first thing you need to drop the filter lid and the filter so you can pull it out, the instruction only briefly mentioned drop the lid and filter, but be SURE to drop the lid all the way down with no interference.\nIf you had an inner shelf even blocking a little of the lid you won't able to pull the filter out, which is happened to me at first, my inner glass was interfere the lid just a very very little bit when it dropped, I was struggle at first why the filter can't come off for about 10 minutes, I almost force to break the connection, so I try to remove the glass shelf so I can get a closer look why is still locking and at this point the old filter came out easily. The time for the replacement should only take about 3 minutes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1552, "id": 503743, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 162, "len_tokens": 208, "text": "As a design professional, I spent a long time looking for the right hood that wouldnt break the bank. My considerations were; stainless steel for 9 ceilings, 36 wide, (my range is 30 so I wanted 3 overhang on both sides to catch the smoke), 900 cfm, (generally I operate it on the lower settings since 900 cfm setting is overkill for a typical residential use), not too loud, ( this one is around 55 decibels at the max speed), oil catcher,  steel baffles instead of a mesh so that it could be popped into the dishwasher for easy cleanup and it had to be reasonably priced! There were many which met all the requirements, minus the price. I was a little puzzled with the negative reviews but after much research, I bought the Z Line KF2-36 36\" 900 CFM hood. Having had it for a few months, I am happy with the purchase and would recommend it to anyone with similar requirements.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1553, "id": 101850, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 239, "len_tokens": 279, "text": "I purchased this spin dryer with the \"Wonder Washer\" as a set three years ago. I still use the dryer religiously but have long since gotten rid of the Wonder Washer, which definitely wasn't easier than just hand-washing your clothes in the tub or sink.\n\nLiving in small apartments in LA and now NYC and preferring gentle handling of my clothes (i.e. no heat drying), I hand wash most of my things. I use this spin dryer almost weekly. It works insanely fast and gets clothes amazingly \"dry\". I fill this thing to the brim on the regular. I've worked out a great system of setting the dryer on the toilet with the hose aimed into the bathtub to drain the water. The trick with the dryer is filling the basin up with clothing *evenly*. If your load is uneven, the dryer will rock back and forth violently. If that happens, just turn the knob to off, wait for it to stop spinning and reload the clothes evenly. Always lay the rubber piece on top of your clothes inside the basin. It helps keep things even.\n\nOnce I've run the dryer, I hang clothes up or on a garment drying rack to finish drying. They are ready to wear within hours. So easy, makes apartment life much more pleasant being able to wash and dry when I want, and it's very gentle on clothes that can't be heat dried.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1554, "id": 444342, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 206, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "I ordered this unit because it was one of the few brands that will cool down to 34 degrees.  The unit arrived very quickly and looked good.  After waiting for 24 hours I turned it on and let it run for a couple of days.  Unfortunately, the unit would only cool to 38-39 degrees and then would warm to 43-44 degrees.  I contacted NewAir customer service and they quickly determined that this was likely a defective unit.  They gave me a return authorization for Fedex.  I repacked the unit and brought to a FedEx center.( I could have called for a pickup.). once the return was on the way the next day, NewAir shipped the replacement which I received two days later.  This one works fine. It cools down to 34 as advertised and holds temp.  My adult beverages are good and cold!\n\nWe all know that sometimes new equipment doesn't operate correctly.  What matters is how a company acts when things go wrong.  NewAir did the right thing be quickly replacing the unit with a working one and following up to ensure that I was happy with the replacement.  This is excellent customer service.\nI would highly recommend this company and this Beverage Cooler.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1555, "id": 179700, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 230, "len_tokens": 271, "text": "If you're reading this then you're probably neck deep in trying to figure out if there's any chance this will actually fit your fridge. While I'm not sure how much help I can be with that, all I can do is share my experience. My fridge is a Kenmore 79142 built around 2000. The ice maker in it puked and I needed a new one. After searching forever I finally convinced myself that this one would fit just fine. It seems like there are only a handful of ice maker manufacturers that send their units to everyone who, in turn, put their own model numbers on them and *poof*...confusion city.\n\nIn the end this ice maker fit just fine. The ice tray is metal unlike some of the cheaper plastic generic units. The description says this is a genuine Whirlpool part but the box is certainly very generic looking with a generic model number on it. I opened the box, it looked like a quality unit and I installed it. The next day I had ice so that's a win in my book. It's been working great ever since. Depending on your particular setup you might need to borrow brackets and the wiring harness from your old unit. I also had to remove the scored cutout section for the water inlet. Beyond that it was pretty much plug and play.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1556, "id": 44347, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 250, "len_tokens": 289, "text": "I read the mixed reviews and decided to take a chance.  Seems I should have paid more attention.  Worked great for a while.  No issues.\n\nThen it just stopped working.  I turned it on and it would run the weather through, just not make the ice.  Nothing to indicate why.  I am currently trying to get the support department to respond and see if I can get it fixed or replace under the warranty.\n\nEdited with a follow up:\nI am following up on my earlier review.  Yes there was no problem for them to cover it under the warranty.  I did have to pay the shipping myself to send it into their service center in California.  The unit they returned appeared to be a refurb and not my original using fixed.  The refurb most definitely does not work as good as new.  There are black marks on the lip just under the lid which is really annoying as the one I sent back was in better condition cosmetically.  If this is the same one then they messed it up somehow when fixing.\n\nAlso there seems to be an issue with the new unit where it will not stop making ice when it should.  I have gone to get ice out and seen it overflowing into the section behind where the ice is made.  Also the ice is connected in strips where the water is being overfilled when making the cubes.\n\nWe shall see how long the new one lasts.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1557, "id": 146831, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 166, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "We have a KitchenAid dishwasher that also had holes in the bottom of the basket and one section was even completely broken out! I purchased this basket because of a couple of the previous reviews and am also very happy with the purchase!  Mine also arrived with KitchenAid on the part and fit perfectly.  I had done a little online research prior for the size and my only confusion is that the seller is calling this a Whirlpool basket when it also says KitchenAid on mine that I received.  Regardless, looked exactly like my old broken basket when I compared the two and was very happy to receive the replacement!  Now, just continuing to reinforce to myself to gently place the silverware in it!  However, the odds of our three children ever actually putting their dirty dishes away are slim to none, so basically my wife and I are just reminding ourselves...and probably better that the kids don't drop in their silverware from 6\"-1' away!  Lol!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1558, "id": 208970, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 181, "len_tokens": 224, "text": "This is a great product in as much as it allows you to vent your dryer on the side. Yay. It's an over priced product because what you're buying is two sheet metal tubes (strait) and one sheet metal tube elbow, along with a sheet metal plate and one 1/4 inch screw. In other words MacGuyver just made one after visiting home despot and saved himself some $ that I'm sure he used to take crack using children to the mountains to find the yeti or something. Anyway. I marked this as 4 stars because I really like side venting my dryer. but I also want to mark this 0 stars, because in the course of installing it I lost more blood from sharp sheet metal than most horror films series go through. Not to mention that LG thoughtfully and lovingly left you 2, 4in round holes in which to place and position all this stuff.\n\nIf your a  12 fingered alien or a shapeshifter, go for it. Otherwise, save your fingers and hire someone you don't like to install it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1559, "id": 52774, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 194, "len_tokens": 230, "text": "Our ice machine in our freezer gave out - so rather than replace that - we bought this machine instead.  Once it gets going - it cranks out the ice very nicely.  A word of caution however:  It comes with plastic 1/8 inch waterline and a cheap plastic connector for the back of the unit that isn't adequate to hold the waterline in place when it's under varying pressure as the water valve is being shut on and off every 30 minutes or so.  It held for almost two weeks then the plastic tube simply slipped out of the fitting and was spraying water everywhere until it was discovered.  Lucky for me - I installed the unit in the garage - so no harm was done.  I re-connected it and it lasted for less than 24 hours before it slipped out again.\n\nResolution: I threw the cheap plastic connector away and bought a brass equivalent and used that on the end of the plastic 1/8 inch water line.  It holds much more securely and it's not going anywhere.  Now that I've got this little problem solved - I'm very happy with the ice maker.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1560, "id": 88273, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "Anyone who thinks they don't have a problem with lint should look at these pictures.  My house is only 10 years old and this is what came out of our vent.  That doesn't even include what was cleaned out from our dryer filter and what was in just the dryer unit.  This product is very easy to use.  I definitely suggest taping each junction to make sure they don't separate in the vent.  I broke my cleaning into 4 cleanings. Fist cleaning was with just the brush and the first extension.  After ensuring that section is clean I added the second and so forth until the brush came out clean.  Given the length of the brush with all four sections, I found it easier to have another set of hands guide the brush into the vent while the other set was operating the drill.\nI noticed that when I turned the dryer back on there was some lint that was dislodged and blew out the outside vent opening.  Unfortunately in my case some lodged between the slats and is keeping the vent opening from fully closing.  I will be making a trip up my ladder once the ground dries a little so I can remove those pieces.  A little price to pay for a clean vent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1561, "id": 503705, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 218, "len_tokens": 277, "text": "Generally not a fan of induction, but this is not the range's fault.  Takes a long time for water to boil unless it is all the way up on \"high\".\n\nThe worst part is the unreliability of the oven. Twice now I have set the oven to preheat to 480.  It reaches 480, and I  leave it there to preheat a little bit longer.  Then I insert my bread, and about 5 minutes later I go to lower the temperature to 460.  So then it says it is preheating to 460 and that the current temperature is 360F !!  Just a second earlier, before I had tried to lower the temperature, it said \"Baking\" at 480.  It's not until I reset the temperature that it tells me that the oven is really only at 360. This has happened to me twice in the last 3 times I've used it and I can't seem to figure out why, and it ruins the bread.\n\nFor a baker nothing is worse than an unreliable oven. Time and temperature must be flawless. An oven should not tell me that it has been sitting at 480 for 20 minutes, and then tell me it's actually at 360 once I fiddle with the temperature (i.e. lower it just a bit below the preheat temp).", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1562, "id": 88084, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "So, this is what life comes down to when you are 50 years old:  reviewing dryer vent cleaners while sitting at your kitchen table waiting for American Idol.  This is not what I envisioned when I was 12, I can tell you that much.  You kids who think it won't happen to you?\n\nIt will.  Sorry to burst your bubble.\n\nThat said, the product works great.  Our dryer pretty much stopped working and we were thinking we needed a new one, which was seriously going to eat into my plastic surgery budget.  One last shot before a trip to the appliance store was this Gardus LintEater.  My husband, who is not the handy one of the family, had to do the work as I have a torn labrum.  (Which sounds dirtier than it is - that's part of your shoulder.)  He, the clumsiest man in the world, had absolutely no problem using this.  I warned him to read the directions first, and he actually listened and followed.  He hooked it up to the drill, and away he went.  He got a bunch of musty, wet lint that had probably been up inside the wall since 1977  - probably consisting of bell bottom material and macram.\n\nNow our dryer actually dries clothes again, and I can continue to save for my facelift. Thank you Gardus.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1563, "id": 296388, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 150, "len_tokens": 203, "text": "Exact replacement. Simple repair\n\nOur 8-year old Maytag gas dryer failed to produce any heat and I quickly determined that the ignitor had failed. The closest retail dealer who had one in stock represented a 2.5 hour, 62 mile round-trip drive and wanted $41.55 (including local taxes). The Amazon price was $16.47 including tax.\n\nThe only tools needed to replace this part are a philips screwdriver to remove the front panel and a 1/4-inch hex wrench for the mounting screw.  The replacement ignitor package included a spare mounting screw just in case you loose the original. If you do drop the original screw and use the spare, be sure to use a washer under the head to avoid damaging the ignitor body. Installation is simple and, of course, the dryer works like new.\n\nFor the record, the cold DC resistance of the new Whirlpool/Maytag 4391996 ignitor was 45.5 ohms.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1564, "id": 179736, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 169, "len_tokens": 220, "text": "Fits perfectly in the Amana Model TZI21RW  MFG No P1168005WW.  Save old wiring harness, metal clip for filler hose receptacle, bottom mounting bracket and wiring harness metal clip that holds the black wire, and all original screws.\n\nMounting required replacing the plastic bottom mounting bracket with the metal one from our 1993 unit.  The metal clip that holds the black wire in the wiring harness was in the wrong location, so I used the original clip and placed in in the correct location on the new unit.  The water receptacle did not have a metal hold down clip for the filler hose, so I used the one from the old unit.  Original wiring harness fit perfectly.  Took 15 minutes to install and place in operation.\n\nI saved the original plastic front cover, and used it instead of the plain white cover that came with this unit.  It fit perfectly as well.\n\nOrdered on 3/4, received on 3/7 with expedited shipping.  Can't get much better than that for 50 bucks.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1565, "id": 468690, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 202, "len_tokens": 230, "text": "We bought this refrigerator 3 years ago at lowes and we purchased an extended warranty as well. Well guess what, the stainless steel doors are rusting from the inside out and neither lowes nor kitchenaid will do anything for us even though it is defective and we have and extended policy. By the way, the ice maker(which is why we purchased the extended warranty} is no longer working as well. We have spent alot of money on different things at lowes and i am positive that i will never step inside that store again. In the past, we have purchased many kitchenaid products and have had no problems but I don't know when whirlpool took them over but they are making garbage now and we will never buy another kitchenaid product again. By the way, my daughter purchased a different kitchenaid refrigerator about a year ago and the finish on it is failing also. A word of advice, do not shop at Lowes and buy anything.  Even with the extended warranty, they refuse to do anything for you. Also, do not purchase any kitchenaid products because they are no longer reliable and quality built but rather nothing more than boat anchors.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1566, "id": 566529, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 208, "len_tokens": 249, "text": "This is a great product; just have the fridge unit in the kitchen and and was considering the combo fridge only and freezer for the hall to the laundry room.  I like the look of this and the space inside.  Having a separate freezer makes so much sense.  A bit disappointed that you can't have an ice/water dispenser with this, but it's a minor concern.  The biggest concern, and the reason I cannot give it 5 stars is that two years after purchase it began to leak on the floor from the bottom right corner.  It's ruined the floor beneath it, and when we called about service they said the whole back panel inside had to come off and they weren't sure how many hours of labor it would be, or if they would be able to put it back together so it could be used, because if it needed a part we'd pay for labor to dismantle, put it back, dismantle and put it back again.  Seriously.  So, while I'd love the combo, I'm a bit nervous we'll be in the same boat with a fridge that inexplicably leaks on the floor for weeks, then stops.  Nothing obvious when you pull off the panel in the front.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1567, "id": 341499, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 179, "len_tokens": 233, "text": "Holy Jamoly!  Not only were there 5 pcs, they were indeed black with silver overlay, and they very much appeared to be a replacement set for an electric range.  This pack came with everything.  It had many convenient conversion doohickeys to fit on the back of the hijamawhatzits which allowed them to fit onto different posts.  Additionally - and this is the big reveal - (SPOILER ALERT, if you don't already own these, you may want to just stop reading now so you can get the full effect if you decide to buy them later) - if you find that they aren't oriented the right direction, for example, they're oriented in the exact 180 degrees of the orientation you need them to be for your range, you can just peel off the top layer of the knob and BAM! there will be the same 1-10 knob but now 1 is 10 and 10 is 1.  It's like magic, except it's SCIENCE... or is it?  Ask a local wizard, or scientist, or both, and then make your own informed judgment.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1568, "id": 61385, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 192, "len_tokens": 242, "text": "Basic advice: don't buy this overpriced & under-performing range!\nWe bought our expensive GE \"Cafe Series\" gas range when we finally started renovating our home after Hurricane Katrina, and like so many others who have reviewed this range, we are disappointed for multiple reasons:\nThe \"stainless steel\" knobs are cheap plastic and now a 2nd knob (GE part #222D1387) has cracked and become useless for turning the gas burners ON or OFF, or for adjusting the flame height.\nAlso, the center griddle burner is terrible -- it takes forever to heat up the griddle and never heats evenly, we have never been able to use it for its intended purpose!\nLikewise, the convection oven seems to take longer to cook everything.\nAnd it really is DUMB to have the two large burners in the front, assuming you are a serious cook, thereby making it a challenge just to get to any smaller pots once you have two large pots on the front burners.\nVery, very disappointed overall.\nThe range looks good, for sure -- but looks aren't everything especially once you start actually using your range for what it's intended, namely cooking!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1569, "id": 377147, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 185, "len_tokens": 212, "text": "At first I was a little disappointed in finding that the temperature measurement was 2 degrees high. I expected better. I went to the Acurite website and found that the accuracy specification for the device was +/- 2 degrees thru the temperature range of 32 degrees F to 80 degrees F. So the device did meet its accuracy specification. I expected too much for the price. As an electrical engineer that spent a career designing measurement instruments, I should have recalled that a temperature sensor alone with a measurement accuracy specification better than +/- 5 degrees F would cost more than I paid for this meter.. That's why more accurate meters are calibrated for accuracy and cost more because of the labor cost of calibration. You get what you pay for, and at ten dollars this device meets specifications at a modest price. Hence four stars. Good device for the money if you can accept temperature accuracy of +/- 2 degrees. I note that the manufacturer's specification for humidity accuracy is +/- 10%. Seems reasonable, if you need more accuracy, get out the pocket book.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1570, "id": 41909, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 175, "len_tokens": 242, "text": "This cartridge is made by the Boneco company that took over Air-O-Swiss.  The original Air-O-Swiss manufactured cartridge was made with some silver to prevent algae/mold/mildew in the water reservior.  It was marked with \"Ag\" which is the chemical designation for silver.  This Boneco cartridge was marked with \"Na\" which is the chemical designation for sodium.  When I asked Boneco about it - they claimed that the \"Na\" stood for \"not applicable\" - yeah...right...  It's printed in the same position on the outside of the cartridge as the \"Ag\" was printed on the Air-O-Swiss made cartridge.  I wrote them stating that I did not appreciate paying for silver and getting no silver since the price of the old and new cartridge are the same.  Also carrying over from the old cartridge is the exact same name and part number as the old silver containing cartridge.  \"Air-O-Swiss AOS 7531\"  So I tried the new Boneco cartridge and now the water and it's reservoir smell very musty.  Boneco claimed the beads inside the cartridge are exactly the same...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1571, "id": 120326, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 239, "len_tokens": 299, "text": "I am writing this review after Maytag's wretched machine flooded our washroom for the third time this week.  Frankly I would have given up on it sooner had I known, but I was not made aware of the problem until this evening.\n\nThe machine's erratic symptoms include but are not limited to:\n\n-Failure to lock lid\n-Failure to illuminate LED's on control panel\n-Inoperative cycle cancel button\n-Perpetual filling and draining\n-Somehow managing to fill the washroom with water while its drum remains moist at best\n\nAfter diagnosis, the problem lies with the washer's control board.  This part alone costs more than we paid for the new washer.  At nine months out-of-warranty, it seems to have outperformed some of the machines in other reviews, but this is a small consolation.  It seems that Maytag is guilty of the same sin as many of its competitors; attempting to cut the product lifespan as close to the snort warranty period as possible, then building the product up with meaningless tag lines like \"Commercial Grade Motor\".  Nothing is commercial grade unless accompanied by a commercial grade warranty.  Next shopping trip, I will bear in mind that a 1 year warranty means a 1 year product.\n\nAnd now, for stress relief, I will take this $450 piece of scrap metal into the woods and pit it against the product of a certain American firearms manufacturer that hasn't compromised their integrity for short-term sales.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1572, "id": 457084, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 143, "len_tokens": 246, "text": "We purchased this combo two years ago due to size limitations. I am a baker and a cook, the oven and the microwave are used daily. The microwave failed in 10 months, but was under the manufacturer's warranty. The magnetron was replaced but the repairman warned me and said, \"get the extended warranty\". Thank god I did. It failed again, 10 months later under the extended warranty. The repairman has been here 8 times and replaced every part and it still doesn't work. $3000 dollars for a pretty unit that is totally worthless. They now have to replace the entire unit. I wish I could buy another brand. Kitchen Aid is not the company it was and I will never buy another Kitchen Aid product.\n\n&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/KitchenAid-Architect-Series-II-KEMS378SSS-27-Microwave-Combination-Wall-Oven-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0011YJMOY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">KitchenAid Architect Series II : KEMS378SSS 27 Microwave Combination Wall Oven - Stainless Steel</a>", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1573, "id": 238653, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 204, "len_tokens": 260, "text": "What a difference!  Washer was sounding like a concrete truck at high speed during spin/rinse cycles.....I knew what the problem was, just had to wait until I was able to get this kit.  Now my wash machine is unbelievably quiet.  I would give it 5 stars, HOWEVER, someone AT WHIRLPOOL screwed up and packaged two of the lower bearings instead of one upper and one lower.  LUCKILY, I pay attention to details and I'm good at research, I determined this before diving into this project and was able to locate a proper bearing.  I also was able to put together my own bearing install tool which worked like a charm.  Also noteworthy, there are NO instructions for this repair included with the kit....you have to find it online.  Not too big of a deal, but I'm used to getting instructions with my repair kits.  Overall, the kit was  just as pictured (other than the bearing issue) and was shipped  and arrived quickly.  If you decide to do this repair to your wash machine, DEFINITELY look up some youtube videos on the subject and watch the videos.  Take your time and do it right.  Make sure you do this right and you won't regret it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1574, "id": 260501, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 192, "len_tokens": 223, "text": "While the product is okay for the price, the unit was so poorly packaged that many parts arrived damaged.  The box it came in was fine, but every piece of metal for mounting the unit was bent and had to be straightened to use.  The stainless chimney parts which come inserted one inside the other were hit at some point and bent so badly in one corner I had to pound them flat.  Thus the finished product has visible damage that can't be repaired.  We had to install due to time line constraints so no time to reorder or mess with the hassle of trying to get parts replaced. I will pursue that now,\nThe packing inside the box consisted of a few pieces of styrofoam fitted to the fan unit and then a bunch of broken pieces haphazardly thrown in to fill the spaces.\nNeedless to say the unit will have to be disassembled to install the new chimney parts if we're able to get them at all.\nOverall we are not pleased. We did take pictures of the damage.  It is simply appalling to find a product shipped so carelessly.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1575, "id": 166423, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 275, "text": "I love this controller!  It was easy to set up although the commonly linked wiring diagram opens and closes the neutral leg rather than the hot (120 volt) leg.  While it technically works, it is NOT SAFE to do so.  Use the diagram linked from Control Products' website: [...]  It is the proper way to wire this controller.\n\nAside from the controller wiring, I was amused at the included user manual.  The logic flow diagram was gibberish.  If you get one like I did, just print the one linked from the Control Products' website: [...]\n\nThe controller seems to be pretty accurate.  I placed a known good temp probe/thermometer into a glass of water at various temperatures, and the TC-9102 was within a degree throughout the range.  Since I plan to use it for controlling the temperature of fermenting malted beverages inside a chest freezer, the dual zone feature will come in handy.  Summertime is no problem since the cooling mode will be used exclusively.  But in an unconditioned space like my garage, wintertime will see a lot of variation in ambient temperature.  I anticipate both the cooling and heating controls will kick in at the appropriate times.  I picked up an inexpensive heater/fan to be used for the heating source when it's called for.  Sweet!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1576, "id": 299144, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 165, "len_tokens": 200, "text": "The easy part, they work and are easy to put in. Ok, for the money this Kitchenaid Dishwasher  cost, I should not have had to rebuild the racks both top and bottom so many times . I have a Stainless Steel KUD 30 FX 3S1  model with top adjustable rack. The after market parts from Whirpool ( the Manufacturer ) are a true rip off. The top shelf parts are priced in criminal fashion. I'm hoping someone from Whirlpool tries to sue me for the bad review so this info gets out there. The low rating is my disgust at the high cost and cheapness of the rack parts. A mass produced , injected molded , plastic part should not cost this kind of money. I usually try to have some fun with these reviews, but I am pretty close to spending enough money buying rack parts for this machine where as I could have purchased a new bargin brand washer somewhere. Shame on you Kitchen aid and Whirpool.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1577, "id": 399182, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 191, "len_tokens": 263, "text": "First of all, my fridge is a GE Adora 27.7 Cu. Ft. French-Door Refrigerator with freezer on the bottom. Prior to making this purchase, I had bought the regular GE MWF Water Filter for about $40/filter. When looking to make another purchase, I noticed the GE MWF SmartWater MWFP Comparable Water Filter and decided to give them a try. Well, I bought the 6-pack for $53.53 with free shipping. I took out the old GE Filter and installed the GE MWF SmartWater filter (after filling it with water of course) in its place. It was an easy install with no leaks and you could feel it seat itself as you twist it into place. I ran about 1/2 gallon of water through the filter to get the air out of the lines and such. Upon tasting the water, there was no odor or aftertaste only good, clean, refreshing, water. Oh! And huge savings. I mean, you do the math. $41.77 for one GE MWF Water Filter, or $53.53 for 6 GE MWF SmartWater MWFP Comparable Water Filters. BTW, the 6-pack of filters work out to be less than $9.00/filter. Sorry GE...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1578, "id": 350994, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 165, "len_tokens": 208, "text": "When the original W10295370 filter expired, we bought the new Everydrop replacement  from Whirlpool.  The water tasted horrible with the new filter.  We replaced the reservoir in the refrigerator and the supply line as well.  Still tasted bad.  Couldn't return the bad filter because 30 days went past (It took time to get the plumber out here and to order the parts).  So, I ordered another one thinking I did everything on my end so it must have been a rogue filter.  That one came and I installed and flushed and used it for about 2 weeks.  The water tastes horrible.  I returned that one right away.  There must be a problem with the newly branded Everydrop because the old blue filters worked just fine.  I'm out the cost of a filter, a plumber and parts.  I'm going to try and find the older Blue Filter to see if maybe when Whirlpool switched to Everydrop, there was some manufacturing problems with these newer ones.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1579, "id": 7114, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 203, "len_tokens": 230, "text": "I have collected three or four of these units over the years to control a chest freezer and mini fridges for beer making/serving. The latest such unit, I purchased from an Amazon seller.\n\nI will say I was surprised by the accuracy of the dial on the most recent unit I bought. My others do not control the temperature to the same level indicated on the dial, so I simply keep a thermometer inside the appliance and adjust accordingly.\n\nI know you can buy digital controllers for a little more money, but in my mind it feels like analog will be more durable -- that a digital model could fail more quickly. I could be completely making that up.\n\nThis controller comes with a rather long power cord that may be longer than you need. At any rate, the power cord to the appliance itself will need to be the same length since it plugs into the controller's plug end. The temperature probe is attached to a long metal capillary tube. At 6 feet, it's plenty longer than I ever need; the excess stays coiled up. The tube is malleable and you can kind of bend it to take whatever configuration you need.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1580, "id": 208885, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 207, "len_tokens": 248, "text": "Such an overpriced product that I thought I would just so this with 4 inch vent pipe... And success! Don't waste your money on this. Just pull the old vent pipe out of the rear and measure and cut to length with a hacksaw for the new output hole. Cut the wide end and flare the edges with a pair of pliers. Use te pliers to remove the tacked on braket too. Test fit over the blower output. It should wiggle in about 1 inch max. Add a 90 from Home Depot which fits over the original pipe easily. The 90 has 4 parts so put it in straight then rotate inside the machine to get the angle. I vented out the bottom so that's all I needed! It can push up so you can slide the dryer into place then pull the 90 down a little from underneath ( assuming basement access). I don't see a need for tape as the 90 fits over the pipe by 2-3 inches and it's all solid smooth pipe. If you need side venting just add a straight length of pipe off the 90 and out of the machine.\n\nHope this helps someone out there wondering if it would work!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1581, "id": 159799, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 217, "len_tokens": 257, "text": "After my dryer stopped working, I called a repair guy to troubleshoot why it would no longer start. He charged almost $100 to tell me that the motor was no good. He said it would cost almost $300 to fix but that the $100 diagnostic fee would be waived. Talk about highway robbery. For what he was charging, I could just buy a new dryer instead.\n\nWell before I decided to invest in a new machine, I went on-line to see if I could do it myself. Sure enough there were a couple of sites who offered step by step instructions on how to do your own diagnostic. I first purchased and changed the thermal limiter. That didn't fix it. Next, I changed the safety thermostat. Still no good. I finally changed the switch and the dryer still wouldn't start.\n\nFinally, I saw the motor on amazon for $62 and said this would be my last attempt. After watching a tutorial on repairclinic .com, I was able to swap the motor with no real issues. It took about an hour because I had to run and get a 7/8 socket head. Other than that, no problems. The motor came nicely packed and looked brand new.\n\nI'm very pleased with the purchase and having a working dryer again!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1582, "id": 95469, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 189, "len_tokens": 211, "text": "This is the second time I've ordered this product. The first time was because I was trying to find a cheaper alternative than the genuine Samsung filter. The product was great, and lasted the advertised time frame. Next time around I decided to try a genuine Samsung again which worked well, but I noticed the water stream on the Samsung unit was VERY slow, annoyingly so. So recently I decided to go round 3 with the Water Sentinel product again and I noticed the water streams out much faster. I don't know if its a good or bad thing. Part of me was thinking maybe the Samsung was filtering better because it was so slow, but I have nothing to back my opinion on that. All I know is the water tastes good coming from both units, but I prefer the speed of the Water Sentinel unit.\n\nAdditionally, I like that they package the unit with a small tube of o-ring lubricant to help keep the filter in working condition during installation.\n\nGreat company and great product and I will continue to order this for replacement on my fridge!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1583, "id": 458430, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 177, "len_tokens": 230, "text": "I bought this unit on 11/30/08.  Unit started dumping ice in the back and would fall out when you open the freezer door.  After Puttin up with it for 8 months I did some research on line and on LG website it said there was a fix.  Called LG (website scheduling did not work).  They sent a man out.  He said there was no fix, this model always does it.  I pressed him and showed him what I found on line.  He order a new ice maker and bin assembly.  It was just like the old one and did not fix the problem.  It still does it. (SICK)\nNow 11/21/10 (sunday morning) the unit was DEAD.  No lights or anything.  Did some troubleshooting and found fuse blown on the board on the back.  Read on line here where another person found the same thing.  I am off to Radio Shack now to get a real fuse holder and fuse.  HOpe that is it.  Not happy about $200 for new board (mentioned in an earlier review).", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1584, "id": 49667, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 83, "len_tokens": 206, "text": "<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Broan-Allure-III-QS330SS-30-Under-Cabinet-Range-Hood-with-430-CFM-Internal-Blower-Four-Speed-Electronic-Control-and-Three-Level-Light-Settings-Stainless-Steel/dp/B000WTWZPC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Broan Allure III QS330SS 30\" Under Cabinet Range Hood with 430 CFM Internal Blower, Four-Speed Electronic Control and Three-Level Light Settings: Stainless Steel</a>\nLooks great... Arrived ahead of schedule.  Initially installed in recirculating mode.  Recommends using just the first two fan settings in this mode.  Can be noisy on level two.  Best to be vented to outside to take advantage of all the features.  Matches my Electrolux wavetouch beautifully. Price and features are what sold me on this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1585, "id": 30987, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 178, "len_tokens": 208, "text": "I've had the ice maker now for a couple of weeks, and it does indeed make ice quite well.  Here are some honest observations on it's performance... good and bad:\nOnce the basket is full of ice, it pauses production until enough melts to make room for another batch... it does this continually until you empty the basket.\nThe compressor and fan noise is louder than my refrigerator.\nThe ice cubes are infused with tiny air bubbles which allows the ice to melt faster than typical ice.\nThe ice from the basket is always wet (melting), because it isn't cold enough inside the unit.  Therefore ice transferred to your freezer will always refreeze together and have to be broken up for use.\nI have found the most efficient way to use it is to make ice for a couple of days, turn it off, and stockpile the ice in the freezer till I need ice again.\nUse the first week's ice production for coolers only.  It will taste funky regardless of cleaning before use.\nHope this was helpful...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1586, "id": 433058, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 220, "len_tokens": 250, "text": "I would recommend avoiding this product. The spin drying section of our washer broke after 2 months and there appears to be no way to contact the seller or manufacturer to get it repaired. I am only writing this review after try every option available to me to get it fixed. I have emailed the seller OneBigOutlet 3 times with no response. There was no information about how to contact the manufacturer, or even who the manufacturer is, that came with the unit. Amazon says they can't help unless I have a written refusal of service from the manufacturer, who I cannot even identify. Oh, and I bought the extended warranty, which I never received.\n\nWhen it was working, it was quite good and exactly what we needed. I didn't really expect a washer at this price not to have any problems. My issue is that if there is a problem, there appears to be no way to fix it. So far, neither OneBigOutlet, Amazon or the extended warranty I bought have helped me in anyway, and I am having trouble even finding out who manufacturers the washer to try to get service or even parts. So please avoid unless you are comfortable with the idea of not having any way to get the machine serviced if something goes wrong.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1587, "id": 227488, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 198, "len_tokens": 227, "text": "This product was exactly what was needed to get us washing again. It fit just right and I was able to plug it in and it worked immediately. I was glad to get the product quickly and not have to wait too long for it to arrive. At the price, it is well worth it...much cheaper than other places...and significantly cheaper than a repairman. Anyone could do this fix - all you need is a screwdriver and a little common sense.\n\nNote: Because I needed a quick fix, I chose not to disassemble the front of the machine to correctly route the wiring harness and assemble it; I just plugged it in the top connector (behind the main switchboard on the front) and laid the lid switch assembly to the side. This means that the lid can be opened without interrupting a wash cycle, but it saved me the hassle of taking off the front of the washing machine to route the new wiring harness. It would probably only take an hour or so to do it, but since it works fine as is, I just left it. I can manually switch it on/off and it worked fine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1588, "id": 62193, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 174, "len_tokens": 227, "text": "We purchased our Whirlpool Duet washer and dryer two years ago.  They were problematic from the beginning.  The dryer has to be watched carefully...if you leave a load of clothes and assume they are dry...you have a problem.  It dries somethings in the load and not other.  It was explained to me that some clothes get thrown to the back of the dryer away from the sensors and don't get dry.  AND THIS ISN'T A FLAW...IT IS THE WAY IT WORKS.  The washer has had all the main computer compenents replaced while it was under warranty.  The repairmen constantly tried to get me to buy an extended warranty.  I didn't.  Now I have a worthless 2 year old washer.  I shouldn't have had to buy the warranty.  Companies have gone into the warranty business as opposed to building a good product.  Consumer Reports rated this washer and dryer at the top of the list of front loaders the year I bought mine.  So, I am done with Consumer Reports too...they are clearly paid off.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1589, "id": 54660, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 192, "len_tokens": 225, "text": "I have had both machines for upwards of 2 years and have had no issues with either machine.  Clothes come out clean and smelling nice.  Dryer dries clothes quickly as they come out of the wash cycle with no excess water on them.  If you are complaining of bad smells in your washer YOU are not taking care of the machine properly!  You have to get the washing machine cleaner recommended for this machine and clean it MONTHLY.  Also, don't close the machine door when not in use... so if you have a very small space for this machine or ANY front loader, don't buy one.  I leave the door open and the soap dispenser pulled out when not in use to give everything a chance to dry out otherwise you keep moisture in, thus your bad smelling musty machine.  Also, the buttons are sensitive but I have my machines in a wide open laundry room and do not bump into them.  Seems like some of you are giving the machine a bad rap for stupid reasons.  They are affordable and reliable thus far in my opinion.  I say go for it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1590, "id": 108229, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 209, "len_tokens": 248, "text": "Where to start...this product was a breeze to install, using the recommended tools. All items were packaged securely and no damage was noticed. Still waiting to get my keg filled, so I cannot comment on actual usage of this product yet, but definitely will in the future. One small complaint, very minor, is with the drilling of the holes in the actual fridge door. I am unsure as to why the manufacture says to drill a larger diameter hole on the outside (1 3/8\" compared to 7/8\" on the inside hole) as the shank that goes through the door does not require such a large opening. Either way, the black plastic washer is large enough to cover the hole, but I found it unnecessary. As one other reviewer noted, hose clamps are not of the best quality, however, I feel they will do just fine and can be easily replaced if so desired. (I used the plastic ones that came with the kit, but can be easily upgraded in the future.) Other than that, everything seemed to be of high quality and I am waiting patiently to have my first beer from my new addition to the man cave!! Amazon, thanks for the awesome product at an awesome price!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1591, "id": 50403, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 199, "len_tokens": 226, "text": "I haven't changed the rubber hoses on our washer since we purchased it about 10 years ago and figured it was about time. After reviewing and comparing many hoses it looked like this one was one of the best. I definitely made a good choice.\n\nWhen you open the package and look/feel where the hose meets the connector you can appreciate the quality. These are many times better than your plain rubber hoses. The angled connector for the back of the washer means you don't have to bend it, just point in the direction you want the hose to go. There's not much more to say - you connect it, it works. I suspect it will last longer than the rubber ones it replaced.\n\nLastly, purchase the hoses from Ace. Though it would appear the price is a few cents higher if you add the shipping cost, that's only if you're buying just one. For the second one, the additional shipping is only about 70 cents more - not double the shipping amount shown. Since most people will be buying two at a time, the total cost from Ace is a few dollars less expensive than the other merchants.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1592, "id": 473988, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 213, "len_tokens": 296, "text": "So far seems to be just as described.  This is the right size for my trucker son. Fits nicely in his cab, removable handles are a great touch. Making footprint even smaller. Freezer sections hold plenty of frozen food for those extra long times away from home. Truckers don't always have luxury of stopping at grocery stores to restock. Convenience stores and truck stops have limited food (often just junk) and expensive! He now takes meat, veggies and fruit in this unit. Healthier, more affordable, and better taste than canned. Our only worry is will the cord hold up, cords often burn out and melt. This is a very common problem.  Time will tell.  ADDED AUGUST 3, 2016 still very happy as for interior size see pics. I do not have measurements. remote in pics is  8 3/4 \"long 2 \" wide ;  mouse is 4\" by 2 \" Description of product says it holds 64 , 12 oz cans. Stop in pop isle to get better visualization***************.**************************HAS DEVELOPED A PROBLEM> ERROR LIGHT IS FLASHING YET ACCORDING TO THE MANUAL THE PROBLEM IS BLOCKED INTAKE  INTAKE HAS BEEN BLOWN OUT AND IS FREE FROM OBSTRUCTION> NOT STAYING AT SET TEMP RUNNING TOO WARM  WILL CONTACT MANUFACTURE AND SEE HOW THIS IS RESOLVED> WILL UPDATED********************************", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1593, "id": 217277, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 233, "len_tokens": 297, "text": "I live in an area where the summers are just way too hot.  As such, I'm always on the lookout for anything that will help me stay cooler.  So I thought I'd try out the Chilled Creations Ice Cube Tray.\n\nThis ice cube tray makes some serious cubes of ice.  When I first popped them out of the tray, I didn't think they were really 2 inch cubes ... yep, they are ... I measured 'em!  And they do keep my water and iced tea cooler ... for a longer time ... than \"regular\" ice cubes, which was my object in the first place.\n\nThis tray is very flexible, apparently made out of silicone.  I was expecting something that was more like \"hard plastic,\" that would \"pop\" the cubes out ... and then break.\n\nWith this tray, I had to mess with the ice cubes a bit to get them out of the tray.  But the tray is very flexible and \"bendable,\" and I half-way \"squeezed\" the cubes out ... and half-way \"peeled\" the cubes out of the tray.\n\nAs such, I've not yet figured out quite the best and easiest way to get the cubes out ... but the tray stays intact, does not break or perforate, and remains ready for the next \"6-pack\" of \"Man-Sized\" ice cubes.\n\nOverall, bigger ice cubes work better for me than smaller ice cubes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1594, "id": 471005, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 205, "len_tokens": 261, "text": "This review only concerns the Electrolux refrigerator.  Almost three years ago electrolux replaced my two year old refrigerator with a brand-new one after many attempts to fix the ice cube maker.  Currently the replacement refrigerator is less than three years old and was installed two years ago.  A malfunction with the ice cube maker created a blockage which damaged key components inside the ice cube maker itself causing those parts (hard shap plastic, styrofoam, other plastic) to be served with the ice cubes.  The bottom line here is I have owned two of Electrolux's best refrigerators and both have had major issues with their ice cube maker.  Upon contacting Electrolux for the 30th time over six years and two refrigerators later they only offered me 50% off on parts which still leaves 100% of labor as my cost and another 50% of parts as my cost.  All in all Electrolux only offered me 25% of the cost of the solution and leaving 75% of the cost to me while maintaining that they value me as a customer 100%.  Given I only own one Electrolux product, it seems excessive over six years and two refrigerators I have contacted had to contact their customer service 30 times.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1595, "id": 112549, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 222, "len_tokens": 257, "text": "First, the ones I got were 5 packs with 2 filters each that look similar to the picture, but the brand is HOME-AIDE and the model no is k2499. They are aluminum and are made in China. The amazon marketplace seller mine came from is One Super Bargain.\n\nLong before mine filled with lint it started to disintegrate sending junk down the drain. At first it was catching lint and looked fine. But today I noticed a bunch of junk in the sink (more had gone down the drain) and found a large opening in the lint trap. I gently pulled at it and more ripped open with little resistance as if there wasn't any metal left, just lint that was barely holding together.\n\nThey seem like metal mesh when new, weak and rather coarse but seemingly sufficient, but after about a month the mesh won't hold together any more. I am not sure what on earth is going on! It is like the mesh is dissolving away. I have used several other brands with zero issues and am on normal city water.\n\nI bought these to prevent problems and now I am having lint and mesh going down my drain. These are cheap, dangerous lint filters! However, it is possible that some sellers are shipping different brand filters that work better.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1596, "id": 451224, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 270, "text": "I bought the 50mm size to replace a more expensive and over-engineered German-manufactured ground spike made of tough polycarbonate, which broke after 3 months in use.\n\nThe Brabantia ground spike is a simple but well thought-out design about 50cm in length. It takes a lot of hammering-in and you must ensure you drive it into the ground perpendicular or the clothes dryer pole will not be vertical. The spike will go into soft ground and subsoil but you will need a large mallet or sledgehammer for the job plus bodily strength and determination, and once seated you will not easily get it out.\n\nThe spike is 100% aluminium so it won't rust and has tough side fins which help keep it vertical when hammering into the ground, and then makes it more resistant to lateral movement once the dryer pole is inserted and the wind starts to blow the structure around.\n\nThe 50mm diameter size has a detachable yellow plastic cap to more easily locate the aperture in long grass, and also protects the channel from rain filling it up during prolonged wet periods.\n\nOverall the product is tough, simple in design and looks permanent, and comparatively cheap. The only caution is that hammering it into the ground is a major operation, and may be virtually impossible if the ground is hard or stony.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1597, "id": 128637, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 225, "len_tokens": 264, "text": "Having tried other filters the advantage of OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) are clearly the least risk alternative. Compared to other filters these produce a clean fresh taste to the water. Others I've tried produced a plastic taste, hard to install, or fail. If you've ever changed a Samsung filter you'll also notice a rather arcane connection process. Aligning with the unlabeled side and 1/4 twisting to the lock position can be a challenge since the grove and lock system employed by Samsung is quite tricky. The filter must be in the lock (aligned icons) for the filter to engage in the water system. If it is not the water will simply bypass the filter. I had a neighbor who complained about his filter until I removed it and showed him it had no water in it. Re-aligning it produced the result he was looking for. The reason I mention this is if the filter is not made exactly to specification it will not twist completely into the water line. The water will bypass the filter and you will get bad water. Even with these OEM filters I have had (1) which didn't work. With the knockoffs I had (4) over the years. I would recommend on the side of caution and buy OEM. Yes they cost more, but at least you know what your getting.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1598, "id": 88016, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 181, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "Works great. I used it and an extension kit with extra rods to to clean a 21 foot long vent with a two right angle turns and it did a fantastic job with the adapter that lets you put the rod through and attach a shop vac. Got a TON of lint out, about a 5 gallon bucket full. Inside of the vent was left shiny and clean. Good for safety especially with such a long vent and to my surprise the dryer actually works quite a bit better now. On the auto cycle I used to have to run it again if I was drying heavy things like jeans or blankets/comforters etc... to fully dry things. Now it does it in one cycle and take about 25% less time to go through the auto dry cycle.\n\nI was just wanting to clean out a potential fire hazard but it really does make a big difference running through a dirty vent vs. a clean one. Might be due to the long length of my vent but very happy with this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1599, "id": 156273, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 174, "len_tokens": 208, "text": "I installed this on my KitchenAid dishwasher. Super easy to install, and now my dishwasher door doesn't go flying down with a crash, and my wife is happy! Total install time for both sides was about 15 minutes. I wish I knew it was this cheap and easy to fix, and I would have done it 5 months ago.\n\nI will note that the strings/ropes were shorter than the original ones from the manufacturer (even though Amazon says it fits my model). This stretched the spring out farther than before, putting extra pressure on the string/rope. I figured this would wear it out quickly, and I'd be in the same boat again in the near future. To resolve this, I was able to move the location of the spring up (there is another hole up closer to the door), which compensated for the shorter string. So, in spite of this issue, I was able to install this kit in my dishwasher, and it has been working great, so it still gets 5 stars!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1600, "id": 555069, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 200, "len_tokens": 237, "text": "I bought this minifridge for my living room to hold beer and soda. I'm a craft beer lover, which come mostly in bottles and are best kept refrigerated. I'm retired and no longer drive. I get my groceries, including my beer and soda, delivered, which means I order up to 8 six packs of beer at a time, especially if one of my regular brands is on sale. This refrigerator works great, but I wish they had one that the shelves were spaced for 12 oz bottles instead of shorter cans. I had to take 2 shelves out to fit bottles, leaving room at the bottom for soda cans. If the supports for the shelves were spaced for bottles, I could use a third shelf for my beers. The door can be set to open either right or left handed with no problem. The door seal is very tight. The magnets on the door are strong, and the rubbed gasket is excellent. The fridge operates quietly enough I don't have to raise the volume of the tv. I hardly notice when it cycles on. I just wish they would offer one for us craft beer aficiandos. We're growing in numbers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1601, "id": 9308, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 182, "len_tokens": 224, "text": "I have been using this product for over two years, and coincidentally have been replacing filters every ten to twelve days, on two separate  humidifiers. The filters would develop a sort of polluted water stench, and only a cleaning, and a new filter would rectify the problem. Well, needless to say, it was getting pretty expensive. I tried cleaning the filters, and all types of experimentation to rectify  this problem. In all fairness, I called the filter company on two occasions, and explained what was going on, and they sent me five replacement filters, each time at no cost. This year, after buying $120 worth of filters to get me through the winter, and being all out of tricks, I decided to try laying off this additive, and lo and behold, problem solved. No problems, I don't know what is in this additive, but in my case, the filters are being destroyed by it, way before they should be replaced, and now I am getting a minimum of 30 days, out of my filters, which isn't great, but much better than before.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1602, "id": 444315, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 170, "len_tokens": 204, "text": "I have had three of these in a short period of time and they all seemed to operate relatively well.  Noise level varied among the three, but none were annoying and one was whisper quiet.  One of them was able to run more efficiently (short duty cycle) and maintain temperatures below 34 degrees a little easier.  They all would keep drinks very cold under ideal conditions. The insulation seems acceptable, but the difference in operation was noticeable between a warm zone and cool zone in the house.  The sticker on the glass claims an average yearly operating cost of $54.  Here's a grain of salt.  The LED light brightness varied between the units.  All were acceptable, but one was considerably brighter.  It's a good purchase that I HOPE lasts well beyond the warranty period. Product has serious issues related to the condition it will in arrive in, but since that type of helpful information is verboten here, I suggest you patiently use the great return policy to it's fullest extent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1603, "id": 87625, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "Anyone who thinks they don't have a problem with lint should look at these pictures.  My house is only 10 years old and this is what came out of our vent.  That doesn't even include what was cleaned out from our dryer filter and what was in just the dryer unit.  This product is very easy to use.  I definitely suggest taping each junction to make sure they don't separate in the vent.  I broke my cleaning into 4 cleanings. Fist cleaning was with just the brush and the first extension.  After ensuring that section is clean I added the second and so forth until the brush came out clean.  Given the length of the brush with all four sections, I found it easier to have another set of hands guide the brush into the vent while the other set was operating the drill.\nI noticed that when I turned the dryer back on there was some lint that was dislodged and blew out the outside vent opening.  Unfortunately in my case some lodged between the slats and is keeping the vent opening from fully closing.  I will be making a trip up my ladder once the ground dries a little so I can remove those pieces.  A little price to pay for a clean vent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1604, "id": 4527, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 202, "len_tokens": 272, "text": "EXCELLENT.  Wicks the water up like a camel in the desert.  Here's a solution:\n\nrinse the whole filter in water first.\n\nThen, install the filter into the unit.  Make sure that the bottom of the filter is flush and touching the bottom of the humidifier unit. Place the center housing on top.  Then install the two side water-bearing units. IMPORTANT:  relax a few minutes and let the water drain in and fill the resiviour.  You know that gurgling sound.  Then, give it a few more minutes for the filter to draw up more water into itself.  What I'm saying is this...\n\nif you put in a bone dry filter from the box--- and expect it to suck up water--- *with* the unit on at the same time?  That's not gonna work.\n\nAfter a few minutes, turn on the unit.  Your choice: 1, 2, or 3.  You will have comfortable, humidified air in your home.\n\n(Also, what I do to neutralize chlorine is use a neutralizer that is formulated for fish tank water.  Add it to the tanks in the recommended dosage, and you will notice a HUGE difference.  The place used to smell like a swimming pool before implementing this chlorine-reduction strategy.)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1605, "id": 100667, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 186, "len_tokens": 218, "text": "I don't like housework. I hate doing laundry. Ok, so I got my little washing machine yesterday and my 3 year old daughter thought it was the cutest thing. She loved that it was just her size. So she insisted that we try it out. She gathered up all her laundry all on her own. She couldn't help much but she loved watching! She did help me rinse the clothes in the bathtub and wring them out. I was surprised how much I enjoyed the experience. It was not only a teaching/bonding experience for my daughter, but we both enjoyed the work. It is so super easy to use. I used 2 heaping regular plastic spoonfuls of homemade laundry soap and the clothes came out spanking clean and smelling fresh! We enjoyed doing the first load so much that we continued to do 3 more immediately. Then my boyfriend got home and I couldn't wait for him to see how it worked so we did another load of his clothes together. It was strangely satisfying to do our laundry in this little hand powered washing machine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1606, "id": 446775, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 155, "len_tokens": 206, "text": "I bought the base unit and have two extra remote sensors (for a total of 3 outdoor sensors).  I have just finished setting it up, so I don't know about battery use by the base unit.  I do like that the remote sensors have rechargeable batteries, so they won't be using up batteries.  The 3 remote sensors agree within 0.2 degrees Fahrenheit.  The base unit agrees with reference indoor thermometers within 0.5 degrees Fahrenheit.  However, be patient, allow 20-30 minutes for the readings to stabilize.  The sensors have good range - 50 feet in my case.  During synchronization mode all sensors were read repeatedly.  Once synchronization mode is done, the base only continues to read the last sensor that was read; you can toggle through the sensors with the channel/sync button on the back.  I'll update this after I've used these for about  6 months.  If there hasn't been an update, everything is fine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1607, "id": 175145, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 217, "len_tokens": 268, "text": "This was ordered as a replacement for a switch that caused the 8-inch element to turn red-hot. The Magic Chef has been used for 30 years. I was not sure this switch would be a satisfactory replacement. It appeared to have the correct number of wiring contacts, and the current it could handle was the higher amount - 8.9 - 11 amperes.\n\nThe length of the shaft is about an eighth of an inch shorter than my original, and the entire switch was mounted sideways so OFF would be on top, just as it is on all the three other original switches. I used my laser temperature 'gun' to determine that the LO was the lower temperature and the HI was the higher temperature.\n\nOther than those two points, the switch is a satisfactory replacement for the 30-plus year-old switch which controls the large eight-inch burner. The indicators on the replacement (Frigidaire) switch - L1, L2, H1, H2 and P - all coincide with the indicators on the original (Magic Chef).\n\nIf I remember in the future, I'll update on whether this switch lasted any length of time.\n\nUPDATE: Middle of August 2017 and the switch is still functioning as it did when it was first installed. This switch rotates easier than the 30-year-old switches do.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1608, "id": 433017, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 245, "len_tokens": 283, "text": "If you are a working mom, living in a apartment, with not a lot of help from hubby, with little ones, you need two items: this machine and a portable dishwasher. I recommend to do your best to save $375 to get both or make them must have baby shower items a group can put money together and surprise you with.\n\nI live on a 3rd floor walk up and used to own the midea washer, a fully automated washer, purchased after my daughter was born. I wished I bought this machine instead.\n\nI am able to wash my queen comforter from home. While a fully automated machine saves me the hassle of babysitting (manually setting timer to empty tub and turning on water to fill tub), the fact that is has 2.5 times the capacity of my old machine and rumbles way less (including being $100 cheaper), makes a world of a difference.\n\nI am able to come home after 6pm and have the benefit of doing my laundry from home without having to worry about my neighbor below complaining about noise. I do have a heavy mat from when I had my old machine.\n\nThis machine is not too heavy and is great for small spaces.\n\nSome other reviewers have turkey baster rubber bottom idea to fill the tub. It is a good idea, but I opted to use the water hose from my old machine to fill the machine with water quickly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1609, "id": 57678, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 221, "len_tokens": 263, "text": "The LintEater worked like a charm. I thought I had about 20 feet of dryer duct to clean so I opted not to purchase the extension kit. I figured I'd use it from both sides so the 12 feet that comes with the kit should suffice.\n\nI didn't purchase the optional lint bag but found a cheap alternative. I duct taped a garbage bag to the side of the house around the end of the dryer duct but leaving plenty of opening for air to escape from the bag once I turned on the dryer. I then cut a slit in the bag to get the LintEater through. After about 10 minutes of running the LintEater while the dryer was running, I was done. I didn't realize it while I was using it, but the garbage bag was almost half full when I finished. I didn't think that much was going to come out. If I didn't use the bag, then I would have made a huge mess in my yard and the neighbor's yard.\n\nI recommend reading the fairly well written manual. There are some tips in there that may not be obvious that will save you from a big headache. I also recommend a dust mask while doing this.\n\nI used an 18v cordless drill with a 3/8\" chuck.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1610, "id": 394487, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 201, "len_tokens": 247, "text": "I purchased it through another website and got a slightly better deal , but the price on Amazon is pretty close.  I bought the stainless steel dual tap version of this, which is essentially the same but I like the look better than black.  I have to qualify by saying I've only had it for about a 30 days so I can't comment on long term reliability.  As for looks, I love the stainless look which is worth the extra $40 over black.  Stainless really makes it look classy.  The fittings, hoses and connections were all flawless.  It came with all the o-rings, most of which were already attached.  The fridge setting I have is on the second lowest cold setting and it gets the beer in my keg really cold.  It makes a loud clicking and/or popping noise from time to time like my other small fridge but otherwise runs quiet (this noise is the defrosting as I understand it).  The fridge is probably pretty standard to other kegerators, but looks nice and the fittings should last a long time. I can fit two 1/6 kegs and a 5lb CO2 tank inside the fridge, with not much room to spare.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1611, "id": 503974, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 229, "len_tokens": 262, "text": "Great stove, been using it extensively since we got it 2 weeks ago and are very happy. Boils water very quickly, oven works great and the auto temp probe is a great tool. Warming drawer is great for heating pies. Flat top is easy to clean, with no knobs to clean around. We saved several hundred dollars over purchasing in Home Depot/Lowes/Sears, and the stove was delivered to our door in perfect shape. Very pleased not only with the stove but also with the entire transaction on Amazon.\n\nFollow up review after about 1 year of using this stove: Still working great but one thing to watch out for is to not spill an excessive amount of water on the cooktop as there are vents along the front and rear. Inside those vents are circuit boards which do not mix well with water. We did blow one out after a pot boiled a lot of water over the edge and it was covered under warranty. Just something to be aware of.\n\nAlso, my initial fears that a family member or one of our cats might accidentally push a button and turn a burner on have proved pointless, it would seem very difficult to do at best. Lastly, there are audible beeps when a button is pushed which is also a good thing. We weren't sure of this before purchasing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1612, "id": 100416, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 220, "len_tokens": 259, "text": "I am a student who lives in an apartment without washer/dryer and don't have a car to go to the laundromat. I just did a few loads with the Wonderwash and am satisfied with it. The assembly is easy, the size of the item is both sufficiently small to be used on a kitchen top yet big enough to wash a few days worth of laundry.\n\nMake sure you put the Wonderwash on a wet surface so that the suction pad can maintain the item while spinning. Also, do not start cracking it too fast too soon, build up the speed gradually.\n\nPersonally, I put the detergent first, then fill the Wonderwash half with hot water, add the clothes and give a few spins to pre treat. After 5-10 mins, I start spinning continually for 10 mins. It is not hard to do, when the movement is started you barely feel the weight. Once again, make sure your suction pads will hold it in place. The cap does not leak and the tube provided to drain the water is very efficient.\n\nSo far, the only real con is that when you are done, the clothes are so wet, you have to hang them above a tub for a few hours before they are fully drained.\n\nI'll keep this review updated.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1613, "id": 9170, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 180, "len_tokens": 231, "text": "Based on all the reviews listed here - and the price - I chose the Haier HLP21E.  Thanks for all the info on the bottom plate and the screws.  I only had to purchase a stronger screwdriver to force the screws through the metal.  The machine is so quiet I had to keep checking to be sure it was running.  The faucet adapter works with the bathroom sink and the hose runs into the bathtub, draped over the drying rack.  A great purchase.\n\nUPDATE 06/04/2009 - Water started gushing out of the faucet adapter into the sink, but I just had to wiggle the hose to be sure that the first 3-4\" below the faucet were absolutely perpendicular.\n\nToday I actually washed a queen-size comforter and all is well.  Certainly do not recommend anything that large but I was desperate.  (I'm on crutches and can't carry anything down to the laundry room.)  Everything, even towels and jeans, dries overnight on a rack in the bathtub - just like the one my mother used with her wringer washer in the 1940s!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1614, "id": 379479, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 180, "len_tokens": 236, "text": "I just spent hours and hours searching on this site and on others trying to figure out which filter replacement to get for my kenmore 800DEvenheat w/automoisture sensing that i purchased in 2009!  I ended up calling the manufacturer and ordered one! :(  I had numerous #'s I retreived from my dryer but nothing on Amazon matched those numbers!  Needless to say this is the EXACT filter I needed for my dryer but I didn't know that until I got the 'hidden' converted cryptic # from the manufacturer, no ones fault I guess :)  Of course it was wayyyy more expensive at almost $50!  this is crazy!  I should return it but after all the hassle but the rep was extremely nice, I'll just keep it but at least NOW i have the parts number and the model number should i need other parts on this dryer!  Live and learn!!  :-) BTW... the part # for this from the manufacturer is #W10120998.  The model # on this particular dryer is #110.69822800.  I hope my trial and errors will help others!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1615, "id": 551586, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 221, "len_tokens": 280, "text": "Used this unit to monitor and control a humidifier in a refrigerator sized cigar humidor. This unit appears to work ok, but I don't have a reference so I can't tell how accurate it is. I assumed it was more accurate than the cheapo humidor hygrometer, so I set the hygrometer to this sensor output. It's straight differential control, so on when humidity too low, off when humidity too high. You get set point and a hysteresis parameters. Bare bones control, but it tracks and seems to work.\n\nI ran into an issue with the sensor when it first arrived. I wired up the unit to power and thought I'l test it. I had the sensor in open air ( in my garage ) and it read 60%... I set the setpoint to 70 and I wanted to see the relay kick off, so I breathed on the sensor. The first time, I barely registered anything, so I was a bit more energetic on the second breath. After the second breath, the display read 70-81-92-OL and remained displaying OL for an hour or more. Then it slowly, and I mean one percent per 10 minutes slowly, returned to 60% over the course of the next several hours. It didn't appear to suffer any permanent damage, but It certainly didn't like my humid breath.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1616, "id": 544478, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 201, "len_tokens": 239, "text": "got it from third attempt, the first time got it without lift gate and the driver asked me to pick it up with forklift, was kind of making fun of me on his phone when i said it's impossible to pick it up with a forklift, it's a tall heavy tower, it would fall and break in peaces, the driver bragged that he would be able to do it with his awesome forklift skills i said no, the second time they delivered, we opened it and it was broken in peaces, glass shattered and a hole from a fork of a forklift in a side, the third time it got delivered it was fine, was happy for a month or so, now all of the sudden some mornings when i come the temperature is way up and all the inventory melted and i have to trush everything, happened several times already including today, tried to figure out the settings, looking in the instructions and online, nothing, it's just not holding the temperature, like just crashes sometimes, very disappointed, the thing is expensive and not working :( lesson learned, buy form companies that actually make and sell or reputable wholesalers not dropshippers.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1617, "id": 39022, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 187, "len_tokens": 208, "text": "I saw a lot of complaints that the adjustment insterts won't fit - i had the same problem until noticing that one end of each insert is veeery slightly beveled to be inserted.  you can barely notice this but unless you insert that end into the knob, it won't slide in.  in fact even inserting the correct end it is still a bit difficult and you have to work it around and push pretty hard - but they do fit.\n\nalso as mentioned these are apparently not \"universal\" because all the inserts are for the same size half moon post - they fit my stove perfectly but apparently from comments there are other size posts on other stoves.\n\noh yeah and people had complained that the sticker showing off position doesn't stick - the sticker has a backing - also not readily apparent - you need to peel off the backing to expose the sticky side and then it will stick\n\nall in all, not a very intuitive product - but once you figure it out, it worked great for me -- and at an unbeatable price", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1618, "id": 273333, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 247, "len_tokens": 297, "text": "Having employed only electric coil burner or LP gas-stove methods of cooking previously, this highly-efficient heating unit was initially a bit strange and required several attempts before I began to 'like it'. The selection of wattage and/or temperature is a new experience and I am still learning what intensity is appropriate for the heating various liquids or cooking foods I have chosen to prepare. The timer is a great aspect but very challenging to achieve the desired number of minutes, especially if less than the preset 30 minute allotment. The digital read-out is excellent, revealing in intervals, the watts being consumed or the temp selected and the number of minutes (and/or hours) remaining. The automatic shut-off is a beneficial feature while the flashing digital code and subtle beeping sound signals the presence of non-compatible cookware; this can be very helpful.\nThe reason I chose a four-star rating is mostly due to my lack of experience with induction cooking, limited cookware usage (no Calphalon stainless steel, for example) or and complications when using the timer; the instruction booklet states how simple it is to set but I am still bewildered when I want to select anything less than the pre-set 30 minutes.\nPerhaps it's because I am nearly 70 years of age and numerous devices in this digital age can be a tad confusing and difficult to assimilate thus the 'old dog; new tricks' heading.\nBTW, the included covered stainless pot is basically a joke. Talk about cheap!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1619, "id": 260408, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 167, "len_tokens": 200, "text": "I bought this straight from the manufacturer. It's a beautiful appliance, looks great in our kitchen. Had it professionally installed and I use it with the ventless kit that was available. Motor started making a weird noise within a month of installation. Contacted the manufacturer and was put in touch with one of their technicians which was challenging at best. They decided to ship me a new motor. Just the motor, which I had to install myself. Came with no instructions. I was very surprised they sent this to me. I thought they'd send me whole new hood. I had to figure out how to wire it myself. Wasn't fun and received no follow up from the company. Now it runs fine but I must say it's almost useless. Doesn't get the job done at all. I'm not sure it's because its ventless or if it's just weak. Smoke from food stands in the kitchen setting off the smoke alarm. Basically is useless. Wouldn't recommend this hood.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1620, "id": 459300, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 173, "len_tokens": 218, "text": "Bought both an Electrolux French Door Wave touch Fridge and this oven.  Make no mistakes - \"Electrolux\" is no better and probably worse than Frigidaire - Same Parent company. These products are horrific.  You will get to know the service man personally as they will be here 4-6X per year to repair this junk.  I had the fridge replaced 3 times from the Electrolux Company - and now it is part of a class action lawsuit. This Lemon range has burners that won't light until it click 15 times then ignites a fireball, has racks that are supposed to slide out but stop working after a year and get stuck and break, has stainless steel that will scratch like crazy if you happen to rub a crumb across is with a paper towel (I am not joking here).  I can't use the self cleaning feature because the high heat bakes the control panel.  Do yourself a favor and DO NOT BUY ELECTROLUX.  You would be amazed how horribly designed these units are.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1621, "id": 67046, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 181, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "Had my husband pick this up for me from Target - on sale this week for 109.00. Took it out today and let it sit for an hour as per instructions and cleaned it. When the time came to make ice I followed the directions and filled it with water but half way between the min and max fill line as they recommend disposing of the first several ice cycles. That was 2 1/2 hours ago. It makes about 7 cubes per 20 minutes and the small size is almost an inch long. Larger than I expected but hollow so was ok. I had expected it to work faster. The largest problem is it is leaking from the back left foot. The first leak on the counter I wiped up and thought perhaps I had spilled - even though it was in the back. But the counter is wet all over again from the back left foot. After reading other reviews we are returning it tomorrow and looking for a better one even if we have to spend a bit more.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1622, "id": 156322, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 264, "text": "Our Kenmore front load washer stopped working. It gave us an error code \"F DL\". The book said to replace the door lock switch. I ordered one and today I put it in. It was a very easy install - Unplug the machine, accept help from a three year old and a six year old (child labor optional),remove the spring strap from around the front seal, remove three screws holding the switch assembly in place, unplug three wire harnesses on the switch assembly, and replace the switch assemble. It only took about five or ten minutes.\n\nAfter it was all back together it still didn't work. Then I noticed the latch (the part that is attached to the door) was loose and could slide left and right. I messed with it for a bit, centered it, tightened the screws holding it in place, shut the door and wonder of wonders the machine worked! The original switch wasn't the problem at all! Try this before you order a part just to be safe. Oh, and don't worry about the part; I'm keeping it. I figure it was my own mistake for not looking the machine over better in the first place and there's no reason to return the part, making the seller eat their labor and have to restock it, just because I goofed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1623, "id": 224821, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 163, "len_tokens": 200, "text": "This is the current version of the original motor. Whirlpool has changed the design to make it less expensive to manufacture and lighter weight but it works perfectly well. Some reviewers here mention that their original motor was much heavier; indeed the one I replaced had more aluminum in the frame but frankly as an engineer I can tell you that it was unnecesary.\n\nMy old motor was struggling to get the drum rolling under medium to large laundry loads, it would growl and time-out before it could get it moving and was starting to smell burnt. The new motor works perfectly under even the heaviest loads. Definetly worth the purchase and relatively simple labor to install it. Since I taking the dryer apart anyhow I once and for all replaced the belt, drum rollers and idler pulley which totals only for the $15 kit (Whirlpool 4392065RC 29-Inch Dryer Repair Kit) + $55 for the motor. It should last a few more years.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1624, "id": 62644, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 169, "len_tokens": 224, "text": "The GE PHP900 Induction Cooktop was installed without problems and has been in use for about 10 days. The response is very quick and perhaps has better control than a gas cooktop. I have put together a YouTube video describing the process of the removing the old cooktop and installing the new one. See https://youtu.be/UgC0pJ62Uuo  Some people have noted than the cooking burners are difficult to see on the cooktop and indeed this is true. I have remedy for this. I purchased a kit of \"Color Coding Labels\", get the small ones about 1/4\" in diameter. Yellow goes well with the black background. I placed a color code label on the sides and bottom area of each burner and about 3/4\" away from the burner. Don't clean the cooktop surface with water or you will wash the dots away. Use the cleaning stuff that comes with the cooktop. Here is a video on how to use the color coding labels to make the burner outlines more visible.\nSee https://youtu.be/jEr13xLfPIo", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1625, "id": 138400, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 184, "len_tokens": 209, "text": "I am frustrated that i could not give an negative number.  Within owning our Samsung refrigerator for just under a year 4 of the door shelves broke.  We contacted Samsung and discussed that there was a significant problem with the plastic they used for these shelves.  We asked for the replacement of 4 shelves  and they sent 2.  Less than 2 month since we replaced these shelves they have again broken.\nwe find we are about 1 month over the 1 year warranty and they will do nothing to help.  Just kept saying you are out of warranty.  I believe if you register a problem during warranty and know that it is because of defective parts and they send defective replacement parts they have not really honored their warranty, their customer or stood by their product.  our family has been a long time purchaser of Samsung products but after dealing with them about this issue and their total lack of customer commitment i will never do business with or by another Samsung product. Oh and but the way the ice maker broke as well.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1626, "id": 99359, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 227, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "This is an easy to use humidity and temperature reader. It comes with easy to understand instructions, a nice case and a battery.\n\nI have three floors on my house. I also have a furnace and central air conditioning unit that includes a humidifier that I use during the winter.  Because my house is old and the air ducts in it were created when central air conditioning was in its infancy temperature and humidity levels vary from room to room.  I plan to make some improvements to my house and this device will give me an idea of what can be improved when it comes to my air conditioning and heating.\n\nThis is easy to use. When it is turned on the first numbers that appear are the relative humidity and the temperature. This changed room to room for me with a bigger difference going from my basement to the top floor of my house.\n\nThere is a min/max button which shows the minimum and maximum humidity level recorded.  There is a hold button so the display won't change if you need to record the information. There is also a button that shows the dew point and wet bulb but I have not used either of them.\n\nThis is easy to use. This comes with a nice case. It also comes with a battery. It works well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1627, "id": 430548, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 201, "len_tokens": 234, "text": "this makes ice and water taste like a horrible mix of plastic and rubber, and that was after several days of emptying and scrubbing the whole thing out to get residue out of it.\n\nEDIT\n\ni decided to try to get this machine working correctly. i completely drained it, including through the water dispenser, and then wiped it down with very diluted soap and water, and then thoroughly wiped it out. then i i cycled through about a gallon of vinegar, followed by 2 gallons of water that i dumped the ice out to get the vinegar completely rinsed. there is now no plastic taste, the ice is great! the water is clear and tastes like water is supposed to taste. i think there was an oily residue that was inside the water reservoir when i got it. while i did wipe it out and made a few cycles of ice to \"clean\" it, it could have been my error in not thoroughly cleaning it before trying the ice and water. i gladly give 5 stars, and if this machine lasts a year or two i will be pleased to buy it again.\n\nEdited again 5/30/17: machine no longer makes ice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1628, "id": 97808, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 180, "len_tokens": 212, "text": "I was a little worried by the haters of this machine, but I took a chance and am soooo glad I did. this is a ice making beast! the only knock I have on it is the small ice tray. it fills up in 24 hours. I bought some plastic Ice bags on Amazon as well and just bag it up every day until I have enough for my own ice age! (or throw a party) Commercial machines cost a ton of $$$. this little guy @ $279 seems like a bargain. Oh, BTW, it seems pretty quiet as well. although I did install it in my garage so that isn't really an issue. also, because I read these little machines crap out fairly quickly, I did go ahead and buy the 3 year protection they offered. the extra cost seems like a good investment for piece of mind. I did notice a little frost build up after a week or so of stocking up on ice. no biggie. but something to keep an eye on. so far....I love it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1629, "id": 465512, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 222, "len_tokens": 256, "text": "Well, yes, this is the quietest dishwasher we have ever owned.  The way they apparently got it so quiet is by eliminating the noisy operations that lead to clean dishes.  Many of the dishes in a load will come out clean but many in random and every changing pockets will not -- regardless of load density or method of stacking.  The rack configurations are weird and do not match any of our normal dishes.  As a result about 10% of our mugs and plates have now got chips at the rims from bumping together. Oh and did I mention that the dishes are not dry at the end of the cycle?  The dishwasher is like a dysfunctional member of the household who has forced us all to change our behavior to enable it.  We pre wash dishes to the point where it is hardly useful to put them in the dishwasher at all.  We don't even think of putting certain shapes and sizes of dishes in and instead wash them by hand.  At the end of the cycle we leave the door open for 15 minutes to let the plates dry.  It is infuriating, especially considering how much we paid for the darn thing.  Although it is only 3 years old we are getting ready to junk it and get something else.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1630, "id": 38922, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 187, "len_tokens": 221, "text": "I bought this kegerator for my husband as a Father's Day present after reading many reviews on many different kegerators. I decided to go with this one since it had the most reviews with more good than bad. It was shipped and arrived extremely fast and surprisingly my husband got it running even quicker. After reading all the reviews I though it would take him awhile to get it going, but he got it up and running in a couple hours. He is the \"handyman\" type though, and can pretty much put anything together. He actually read all the instructions and watched the you tube instructional video. He said he had to make a few minor tweaks. We didn't end up using the 2.5 lb co2 tank, instead a friend have us his extra 20lb tank which fits in there with a pony keg. So far so good. The beer is pouring good and cold. Its extremely quiet also, I have to check sometimes to make sure its still running because its so quiet. Overall I think this is one of the best appliance purchases I've made.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1631, "id": 265923, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 176, "len_tokens": 224, "text": "Not long enough life for what I paid.  Still broke down and fell apart.  Tried all the stuff, washing in vinegar etc.  Worked good for a few months of non-continual use. I used it for a week straight then it would sit for a few days.  I'd wash it and start again use it for a couple of day and it would sit. Did this for about two months.  Then washed and it was starting to come apart where the layers were glued together.  I stored it for the next 9-10 months.  Got it out again and it wouldn't wick at all.  Soaked it in vinegar for a few hours and worked for a day or two. Then stopped wicking and was really falling apart the inside 3 layers just laid over.  It was stretchy and would not stay in the humidifier well.  I gave up and found a new vaporizer without a filter.  One weird note, it got a bunch of little clear beady things built up in it.  Don't know what that was about.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1632, "id": 322300, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 214, "len_tokens": 250, "text": "This Weather Station is great if you want to have multiple sensor readings from multiple locations, as well as on a freezer unit! We live on top of a mountain and the sun is intense so it is interesting to watch the temperature drastically change across the house (inside & out) as the day progresses.\n\nThe sensors have remained connected, the farthest probably 35-40 yards outside.\n\nThe color change for outdoor temps is a nice feature, but I am 50/50 on importance beyond looking at a drab green display. At some point I will memorize the color codes and maybe then it will be more interesting for quick updates.\n\nI read a review where someone was able to get another manufacturer's sensors connected which is why I chose this unit since I have a few older RadioShack sensors with multiple channels and work on the same frequency. Alas I haven't been able to get them to communicate. I have yet to contact the manufacturer and will report back if they are able to help getting these connected.\n\n4 stars because the unit is mulch-functioned, yet feels a but cheaply constructed for the price. Plus, I don't like the fact that the color option only works on AC since I prefer to mount with batteries.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1633, "id": 201582, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 201, "len_tokens": 269, "text": "What a nice little temp/Hum sensor. Code is very easy, and it uses just 1 pin for both internal sensors. The only issue I had preventing 5 stars was the readings are just a little bit off, leaving the only way to adjust is an offset in your code. Although not a big issue, but it leaves open how consistent the reading will be over time. If I notice it floating, I will update the post.\n\nFor those needing the code used, it can be found all over the net. I just pulled it off the net from somewhere. But in a nutshell - you need the following in your code.\n\n#include <dht.h> // For HHT11\ndht DHT;\n#define DHT11_PIN 7\nint chk = 0;  // * DHT11 read setup\nvoid setup() { }  // your setup code\nvoid loop() {\nint chk = DHT.read11(DHT11_PIN);\nint Tmp = ( DHT.temperature * 1.8 ) + 32; // convert to Degrees F\nint Hum = DHT.humidity;\n// So Tmp is your temperature and Hum is humidity\n}\n\nIf you want to print to the serial port, there are plenty of examples on that code to add.\nSame to print to LCD\n\nGood Luck", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1634, "id": 466085, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 202, "len_tokens": 254, "text": "We've had our black Whirlpool Gold Latitude (model GI7FVCXWB) refrigerator for three months.  We purchased it in February of 2010.  We give this refrigerator a five star rating.\n\nThis refrigerator is everything we wanted.  We love that we no longer need measuring cups for adding water to a recipe. The door shelves are wide enough for gallon bottles.  Both the refrigerator and freezer are huge.  We had a second freezer because the top freezer on our previous refrigerator was so small.  I have unplugged the second freezer because it is no longer needed.\n\nThe ability of the ice maker to dispense cubes or crushed ice is great.  Although I've seen some complaints regarding the noise level of the ice maker, it is no louder than any other refrigerator ice maker.  The noise level does not draw your attention to it nor does it drown out conversations or cause any other distress.\n\nMy only complaint is with the Owner's Manual.  The refrigerator has a door ajar alarm.  Unfortunately, the Owner's Manual does not provide good instructions for turning the alarm on.  Once, I figure out how to set the door ajar alarm, we will have no concerns with our black Whirlpool Gold Latitude.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1635, "id": 519210, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 175, "len_tokens": 211, "text": "We used this brand new oven in our brand new house only twice before it broke down. The control panel became untouchably hot and certain electronics stopped working. Our service call was initiated on Dec. 17, 2013. The local repair company ordered a whole new control panel. None in stock in North America but the part was supposedly being shipped from Italy. Or was it? When nothing had been fixed by mid January, we were told delays were due to holiday closures in December. No one could really say where the part was although they said it had been shipped. Another month came and went but at long last (mid February now), the repair company finally received the panel and installed it. Our troubles did not end there, however. The oven cooks things now but the fan won't stop, even HOURS after cooking is complete. We have to switch off the breaker to stop the fan. It is now March 2, 2014 and we still can't use our oven. Bertazzoni  and their products are horrible!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1636, "id": 93674, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 178, "len_tokens": 212, "text": "I initially was apprehensive about working on a gas oven myself. If it was electric I wouldnt have worried as much. But when the repair guy wanted 70 bucks to just look at the thing let along fix, I did some research and found a few super easy to follow youtube videos on how to do it.\n\nIt is REALLY easy.\n\nA few tips:\n-dont bother with the connector. Its highly unlikely it will be the right connector. Grab a 5 dollar wire stripper from Home depot. Snip the connector off. Then strip the two wires about 3/8 inch. Do the same for the one in the oven. Do not worry about taking the back off and stuff ...just snipe the one in the oven. Then strip those two. Then swap out the ignitors using the included ceramic wire nuts. Worked like a charm.\n-do not over twist the ceramic wirenuts. The threads inside aren't metal and are ceramic too so you can chip and break the threads if you do. Just twist enough to make it snug.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1637, "id": 362360, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 164, "len_tokens": 216, "text": "I was a bit concerned at first, considering people's comments about leakage and non-fitting.  However, I haven't encountered any of that.  At first the tabs didn't look proper, until I figured out I had the thing upside down.  Flipped it over, and everything looked right.  Snapped in the face place, pushed it into the slot, and it works.  Yes, the fit isn't \"like a glove\", but to be honest I encountered the same level of gaps with Frigidaire filters.  As someone mentioned, you will need to run water through it to clear out the filter sediments (same as with any filter), so no big there.\n\nSo for anyone considering this product, a few tips;\n  Save the original to compare with this so you can verify the tabs are lined up properly\n  Flush water through the unit before drinking.  You'll get a lot of black sediment and \"filter farts\"\n\nAfter all that, for a product at roughly half the cost, I'm very happy about it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1638, "id": 180684, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 132, "len_tokens": 229, "text": "This was to replace the 'same' unit I originally bought at Lowe's.  The unit when it arrived was half the weight of the sturdy ABS plastic of the original model.  When I inspected the unit it had no instructions other that the minimal ones on the flimsy box.\n\nWhen I opened the top (lint trap door) to examine the float (which is made of an even lighter cheaper plastic, unlike the original which was made of the same durable ABS), the hinges promptly snapped.\n\nThis is a terrible, cheap, poorly made knock-off of the original high quality, well designed orignal.  Don't waste your money here, find the original, should be more like 5 pounds, not 2 pounds.\n\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Super-Efficient-Dryer-Vent-Saves-You-up-to-10-on-Energy-Costs/dp/B000BOB1FI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Super-Efficient Dryer Vent Saves You up to 10% on Energy Costs</a>", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1639, "id": 102012, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 201, "len_tokens": 249, "text": "I purchased this little spin dryer for my motorhome.  I knew that the clothes would not actually \"dry\" while spinning, however, I didn't realize that the clothes would be so nearly dry.  It won't hold my husband's huge jeans, but it will spin with anything else I put into it--underwear, blouses, shirts, slacks, swimsuits, etc.  I haven't dried more than one or two articles at a time so it only takes one to one and a half minutes for each \"load.\"  I also like the hook on the back of the unit to hold the electrical cord and the way the drain hose tucks underneath when I'm ready to put it away.\nI also own the little Wonder Washer and together these two units keep my clothes clean while we are on the road. Both items are gentle on the clothes. I don't have to lug a huge basket of clothes to the laundromat all the time, so I am saving time and money.  I wash and spin dry our clothes in the evening and put them on hangers; the next morning I put the dry clothes into the closet and I'm ready to enjoy another day of traveling or sight-seeing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1640, "id": 135124, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 205, "len_tokens": 237, "text": "I was looking for the replacement filter for the refrigerator I bought 6 months ago and could not find the \"00020A\" I contacted Samsung customer service via chat and they told me I needed to order from their parts distributor and that I would need to call during regular weekly hours. I persisted by asking what model is compatible and was eventually told this was the compatible filter for my Samsung RF263TEABC French Door Refrigerator. Their website did not list this as the replacement for my model and I was told the website must not have been updated. No big deal. So they confirmed this is the replacement and I got it here, much cheaper and faster.\n\n+ Tastes Great\n+ Easy Direct Replacement\n+ Month Stickers to Place on New Filter as a Reminder (I put it on the knob)\n\n- Reduced water pressure quite a bit. The original pushed water out with much more force.\n\n_Bottom Line_ Yes, I would recommend this and I would also recommend contacting Samsung support if there are any questions regarding compatibility. This filter works great, the water tastes good, but the pressure is reduced (at least in my experience). 4 Stars for the drop in pressure.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1641, "id": 556940, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 210, "len_tokens": 255, "text": "For the money I think it is OK.\nI removed a Kobe, we had some problems turning the Kobe on and had no response to help, e-mails. So I bought a Proline. this Proline is half the cost. The Kobe is thicker gauge. The Kobe has nicer lines and better edges. And a lot quieter. But I am compairing it to a item at twice the cost. this may not be fair\nCons\nI had to make a hole saw hole on the right side because that is where my plug is.  they could have made a knockout on both sides!\nThe finish is ok but not a good as Kobe\nVery very loud, com paired to Kobe\nvery thin\nrivets stickup so it does not sit tight at the top.\n\nPros\nWas 1\" higher and 1\" less deep. I liked this\nLove the buttons in the front where you can see them.\n\nwe were cooking some Salmon tonight and I turned up the fan, The wife turned it down because it was to loud\nSo if you only had $400. to spend. this is great. My Kobe started to give trouble after 10 years. I think it just needed a new control board, but Kobe would not answer me.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1642, "id": 25170, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 193, "len_tokens": 228, "text": "Dew point display was the feature that made me buy this product. It has worked well, has a long battery life, and is accurate. The dew point shows how much humidity I can safely add in the winter without condensation forming on the windows. It also indicates the efficiency of the air conditioner in the summer. \"Delta T\" (the change in temperature, the temperature of the intake air minus the temperature of the chilled air) shows how much heat the air conditioner is removing. Since the a/c also removes moisture, the dew point tends to be the same as the evaporator plates, which is the temperature of the chilled air. (Unless you live in a dry climate.) So, just noting the difference between the ambient air and dew point indicates the efficiency. It is amazing how much more efficient the a/c is in the morning, when the outside temperature is in the 70s versus how little chilling happens in the afternoon in the 90s. I quit running the a/c in the mid afternoon, and save a few buck on the electricity. It is a fine product. Spread the word about the dew point!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1643, "id": 307486, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 179, "len_tokens": 207, "text": "Second time replacing. Very poor design. After reading a post about fixing the issue, I looked for what might have been the real issue. I too noticed on the back the auger screw/rod was protruding too far back causing a deep indention on the back plastic. After looking at other video about replacing the dust cap I noticed it should not protrude too far back. Maybe that needs to be replaced too. Although I didn't order that part and followed the recommendation on another reviewer. I didn't quite understand their instruction but did what I thought was mentioned. I drilled a small 1/16 hole to the dust cap and found the smallest screw I had and screwed it in so that the auger rod could not screw further back than needed. Only time will tell if th is was the real reason for cup to constantly be cracking.\n*if you had difficulty removing the top part where the tabs had to be pushed in, look at the screw auger rod.\n* used for a ge cafe side by side.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1644, "id": 455355, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 244, "len_tokens": 274, "text": "I have owned and used this washer and matching dryer for 10 years without a problem. I found the mold problem to be very manageable by just wiping down the gasket after each use and of course leaving the door open. I have read that newer versions of this have one or more tubes connected to the main door gasket, I guess to help minimize the mold problem but haven't really verified this. My washer just recently started to shake and smoke and after investigating on the internet determined that the probable cause was a broken spider bracket that is used to stabilize the drum when it is rotating. There is a great U-tube video that clearly shows how to replace it. Sooooo I decided to buy the new spider and replace it myself rather than buy a new washer. After disassembling the unit I was shocked to see how destroyed the spider bracket was. It appears to be made of cast aluminum without any protective coating and corroded beyond belief. Of course then it was broken in several places. The replacement spider bracket that I received is of the same faulty design and so I spray painted it as others had suggested. I still do not have the washer repaired as I had to order some new mounting bolts and am waiting for their delivery. I THINK THAT LG NEEDS TO CORRECT THIS DESIGN PROBLEM AND PROVIDE SOME COMPENSATION FOR ALL CURRENT OWNERS!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1645, "id": 294996, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 222, "len_tokens": 281, "text": "Even if I had read the bad reviews, I might have bought this since the bad reviews weren't so bad -- but our experience is BAD.  Our whole water system is now broken. I've had this fridge for 7 years, used multiple GE brand filters and never had a problem.  With so many good reviews, I bought this one, but also a GE one as a backup.  HUGE MISTAKE.  When I put it in, it made that horrible, grinding, rattling noise another reviewer described -- and I haven't gotten water out of it since. I immediately put in the new GE filter, and even tried the old GI filter. Nothing.  I contacted the company and their claim is that the problem is with my water line.  It worked fine before this filter.  I'll be getting my money back but now my water/ice system is completely broken and I'm buying water at the store and making ice.  ABSOLUTE CRAP. CRIMINAL MISREPRESENTATION.\n\nUpdate: posting a picture. Two hours today working on this, and found the problem. The grinding noise I heard was the filter grinding down the plastic piece that has to be engaged for the water to flow. Replacing this part will cost me $197 at GE, and that's if I do the labor. Save yourself some money and don't buy this filter!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1646, "id": 514827, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 231, "len_tokens": 273, "text": "Fairly quiet, reasonable to install, and looks great with lots of compliments.  I would buy this again.\n\nI put this in my kitchen that had a vent and wiring, but had never actually had a range hood installed.  I liked that I was able to bridge the gap between black appliances and stainless steel appliances with this model. (still converting some of the appliances)  My kitchen is not huge so I wanted a range hood that would not dominate the area and block the view.  I have 10 foot ceilings and I was able to hang this 34 inches above the range top which to me was perfect so that you can be on the other side and not have to duck to look at people at the dinner table when entertaining.....  or bump my noggin while flippin' hot cakes and burning bacon.  I did substitute the 4 frame to ceiling lag screws with bolt head hardware, else I used all the stuff that came with the unit.  The LED lights are very bluish and not very bright so I will try to find something that will fix that like some 5050smd pods or whatever.  the clock is only 24hr time format but I could totally have done with not having a clock on it at all.  I must have 4 clocks in the kitchen when you add it all up ?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1647, "id": 181826, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 188, "len_tokens": 228, "text": "We moved to a house and had to adjust to 30\" and I thought this was the answer. It isn't ! Don't buy this piece of junk!\n\nIf you have a skillet or stockpot on the center burner (which is the only one that works decent) the rest are useless. Sorry but 30\" is still 30\".\n\nIf that were all I wouldn't write this review over a year after purchase.\n\nThe grates are too high from the burners. The heat destroys any plastic handles and you need to use an oven mitt with steel. It is an inefficient use of the heat and downright dangerous. I can't explain how bad it is in words.\n\nTo add insult to injuries, the genius that designed the heavy duty stainless steel knobs wants you to buy lots of them at $30 each. They are attached with extremely cheap plastic mounts that break with the slightest pressure. The pics attached are from the 2 I currently have broken. They literally snapped off when I turn off the burner.\n\nI'm not \"review guy\" but is like to slap whoever green-lighted this stovetop at GE.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1648, "id": 261565, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 190, "len_tokens": 219, "text": "I went with this filter because the price was attractive, but soon learned I got what I paid for. Soon after installing and purging air as normal, I noticed water collecting on the freezer drawer below. I considered it a freak accident, wiped up the water, and went about my business. The next day, I noticed another puddle. I made sure the filter was seated correctly and was not cracked or had damage to it. All seemed fine. I wiped up the mess. Later that day, the water was back. I pulled the filter out, turned it upside down, and noticed how easily the water drained from it. This was in comparison to all the other filters I've put in it in the past which didn't leak at all without force. Needless to say I threw the filter away and went and bought a new one made by GE that has been working fine ever since. If I was sent a damaged filter, there was no way to tell. So I'm going to have to say this filter is crap and recommend you don't get suckered in by the price.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1649, "id": 108877, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 172, "len_tokens": 214, "text": "My dryer's required part was WE25m40 which only difference from this kit is a flat hole ion square bracket. The hole is to fix thin spring like tentioner but this kit (WE25X205) successfully replaced the WE25m40. Shape and size of each parts fits exactly with my dryer although I had to find an extra volt to fix tentioner after I stripped the volt by applying too much force.\n\nLocal appliance repair person normally charges $40 for parts and $100~150 for labor to replace this part because this drum bearing is in the very back area of the dryer and entire drum need to be removed in order to replace this bearing kit.\nIt took 40minutes for me to do entire job. Actually 10 minutes to view a repair guide on youtube ([...] and 30 minutes of actual work time. What I spent were $20 (including $7 for overnight shipping with amazon prime), 40minutes, and a bit of sweat by doing some weight lifting (kidding).\n\nOverall, I am satisfied with this kit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1650, "id": 13985, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 236, "len_tokens": 280, "text": "I bought a Waste King model 8000 to replace the 15 year old InSinkErator in this house. Unfortunately the only discharge tube supplied with the Waste King was a 90 degree bend. To use it as-is I would have had to create a much longer series of pipes that included 360 degrees of turns to mate up with the original drain system. So I bought this InSinkErator flexible discharge tube. I was very skeptical that it would work because right through the packaging I could see that the metal bracket would not fit over the plastic flange. Furthermore the packaging clearly states that this product is for certain InSinkErator models. Then I read about softening the plastic in hot water and forcing the metal bracket over the softened plastic. That worked just fine. You don't need to heat the plastic up much. 30 seconds in very hot water should do it. Put the metal part on first.\n\nNow which way does the black neoprene gasket fit? Clearly there is an internal groove that fits over the white plastic flange, but there are two ways to install it. Notice that one side of the black plastic has a thin lip but the other side lacks that. Install the black plastic such that the thin lip faces the corrugated part of the tube. It will serve to center the metal part properly with respect to the black neoprene.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1651, "id": 101975, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 234, "len_tokens": 289, "text": "Paired with the Wonder Washer, it does the job. I no longer use the laundry room in the apartment building. I couldn't be happier about saving over $350.00 (in quarters) a year.\nI wash all my clothes, (except heavy towels and sheets) in the Wonder Washer, spin dry and then hang them on racks and hangers to dry.  I am 61, live alone and have arthritis in my hand, neck and shoulders. The spin dryer is fabulous, eliminating the excess water in the clothes. I still work full time as a florist, so my clothes do get dirty. I love being able to wash a few things at a time.  I will not go back to using dark, dirty, expensive laundry rooms. Granted, it may take a little longer, than using washers and dryers, but it is so worth it, not to use dirty public washers and dryers, that are \"out of order\" half the time.\nIf anything were to happen to my little spin dryer, from Laundry Alternatives, I would not hesitate a moment to buy another one. I am so pleased about not having to carry and drag laundry outside, and down dangerous brick steps.\nNor do I have to get up super early on my day off, to try and beat the other tenants to the laundry room. It is a cleaner, less expensive, and less stressful option for doing laundry.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1652, "id": 99361, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 177, "len_tokens": 200, "text": "I really liked this combination probe.  I have several thermometers and one other humidity probe, but having both together in a sturdy package is very nice.  I've been using this probe in my basement to make sure the humidity stays in a good level to reduce the chance of mold.  Most people said the humidity reading was instantaneous, but I found I had to wait a couple of minutes for it to stabilize.  I probably was in a couple of percentage points quickly, but I like to be exact.  The temperature measurement was very quick though, stabilized in a couple of seconds.\n\nI really like that the temperature probe is able to be put down into ductwork so I can measure the AC temperature in the duct and not wait until it mixes with the room air.\n\nThe unit appears very sturdy and well made, there is a carrying case included to keep it from getting banged up.  I would recommend adding this to your test arsenal if you have a need for measuring humidity and temperature.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1653, "id": 105055, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 255, "len_tokens": 292, "text": "I love this darling little machine and the darling little dryer I bought with it. The hose without the extra attachments that came with it connected to my tub, which is fitted with a hand-held shower head. So try that first, before adding the extra parts that come with it.  I went to the hardware store to get a hose-splitter so I can keep both connected at all times. I just turn the knob to direct water to the washing machine or the shower head, whichever Im using. Make sure to keep the outlet hose raised as you see how Ive hooked it up in the picture. The hook came with it. If you leave it on the floor of the tub, it could create a vaccuum effect and drain water while the washing machine is filling, which tricks it into continuosly adding water. Easy solution, just raise the hose up, so you don't accidentally create suction. It works beautifully. I really love the 3 different water levels to chose from. You can literally wash only your delicates and under garments separate from other clothes without feeling guilty for wasting water. The spin cycle doesnt make much noise at all. I positioned the machine so that its not touching anything else, and is sitting squarely on a bath mat. This keeps it stable and sturdy so that I don't hear the spin cycle. If I shut my bathroom door, I hardly hear the machine at all, but can still hear the beep when its done.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1654, "id": 170591, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 182, "len_tokens": 227, "text": "Wife is happy. I am happy. I used the motor only to fix trouble codes and slow draining. Motor twist locks off of strainer assembly. i recommend using plumbers grease on o-ring to perform this. It will allow the motor to be replaced without turning the washer over to remove the mounting screws associated with the mount.\n\nUnit was significantly cheaper than the Sears parts website. make sure motor part number on old unit matches this one exactly. installing this myself saves over $100 in labor and took all of 30 minutes.\n\n1. Unplug washer\n2. Remove cover at bottom of washer\n3. Open strainer and drain and remove debris.\n4. Unplug the wiring harness from the old motor. Carefully place it off to side.\n5. Untwist old motor and remove. Clean the strainer surface with a foam swab or clean towel.\n6. lubricate new motor and install motor with slight pressure and twisting motion.\n7. plug in wiring harness into new motor.\n8. plug in washer and run test rinse cycle. (check for leaks and error codes)\n9. install bottom cover", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1655, "id": 534944, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 212, "len_tokens": 263, "text": "We selected Electrolux appliances when we built our new home.  Soon after moving in we noticed that the wall oven had circular scratches on the porcelain bottom liner.  We notified our builder and they in turn got in contact with the dealer they purchased the oven from.  After several visits from the dealer's service department, we were notified that they will not be fixing the oven.  I contacted Electrolux directly with the hope that they will address this manufacturing issue.  Unfortunately, I was told that since I did not contact them within 60 days, it was not covered in their warranty.  The customer service rep was rude and short.  I explained that the Electrolux dealer was notified of the problem within 60 days even though we did not contact Electrolux ourselves.\n\nJust yesterday, our Electrolux dishwasher (EW24ID80QS) stopped working. It is constantly making a sucking noise as if it is trying to clear water but there is no water in the dishwasher to empty.  I shut off the power to the dishwasher to reset it but it keeps making the suction noise as soon as the power is turned on.  None of the buttons on the panel seems to work.  I am dreading the call to Electrolux customer support.  Wish me luck.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1656, "id": 220057, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 172, "len_tokens": 210, "text": "We were looking for a modern double oven to replace our 20 year old unit and didn't want to pay an arm and a leg. In looking for reviews on this GE oven, I found only a couple, mostly favorable. We also looked at similar ovens from Whirlpool and Maytag, both of which had many more reviews.\n\nWhat stood out with the other brands were complaints about how noisy they were. One person described the noise like an airplane taxiing in their kitchen! I didn't even know these new ovens had fans, as they are not convection, and our old oven had no moving parts whatsoever. Nervous about this noise issue, I ordered the GE since none of the five reviewers even mentioned noise. Well, I'm here to tell you, this oven is QUIET. Yes, like all these modern ovens, it has a cooling fan that continues to run even when the oven is turned off, but it is a very faint, soft noise, not a bother at all. I was relieved!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1657, "id": 220226, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 189, "len_tokens": 213, "text": "This unit is nicely styled to be as unobtrusive as possible so you could use it anywhere in your house and it's rounded edges are nice if you have kids running around.\n\nIt was easy to install although a bit heavy to move upstairs where we needed to use it.\nThis really helped with a room that we just can't seem to keep cool without the rest of the house being freezing cold.\n\nIt would be great if you enclosed a porch or patio and needed to cool a space that has no duct work.  It is easy to install and simple to operate.  As long as you have a window and an electrical outlet near where you want to use it, you are all set.\n\nADDITIONAL INFO (8/31): Last night our air conditioning broke down and upstairs was like a toaster (Florida in August). We slept downstairs but my daughter was happy to have the air conditioner in her room. In the middle of the night, upstairs was so cool I could sleep in our room comfortably too. We were so glad to have this unit!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1658, "id": 53856, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 193, "len_tokens": 233, "text": "We have been using this cook top for about 7 months now, and I absolutely love it!  We had a 25 year old electric range before this so it was like going from a junker to a porche!  The unit is incredibly responsive, I can go from a hard boil to a gentle simmer in a matter of seconds, with our old unit I would have to change burners to do this!  It is incredibly fast, just a few short minutes to boil water for pasta.  It is very easy to clean, most often I only use water but maybe once a week I use the cook top cleaner.  I have read some complaints about the noise and I can honestly say it doesn't bother me.  When simmering or cooking on a lower temperature I don't even notice the sound.  When using a larger pot/higher temperature is makes a gentle humming sound.  Most of my cookware works with this (Le Crueset, cast iron), the few pieces that I did need I picked up at Ikea which were very inexpensive and have worked wonderfully.  I highly recommend this product and would definitely purchase again!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1659, "id": 384167, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 169, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "Had an issue where our dishwasher was not draining.  After checking many possibilities turns out this check valve had deteriorated/failed, with the round part becoming detached and blocking the drain hose.  Once we removed the broken parts and replaced with this part, dishwasher now functioning perfectly.  So the part as ordered worked exactly as intended -- but I gotta say, what a ridiculously engineered part -- our dishwasher is only 5 years old, and looking at the construction of this part we believe it's only a matter of time before it will fail again.  Guarantee 90% of owners would likely have encountered this problem, assumed a pump failure, and simply gone out and purchased a new dishwasher.  This wimpy part causes what seems like a significant issue when it fails, and it's clear it will only continue to fail.  Also - for a part that probably takes 5 cents to produce, the cost for this small piece of rubber seems incredibly excessive - but such is the parts business.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1660, "id": 83073, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 171, "len_tokens": 210, "text": "The plastic handle slips off. It is not usable. Not white either, is is ivory...which wouldn't bother me if it worked. The first one I got was the cheaper one (cost approx 12.75 before shipping. It was the one that arrived broken. Tried to find item at a local appliance parts store but the clerk seemed very uncertain that what they would fit b/c they did not have the exact number. So I decided to try amazon again, got one with a company with better reviews --\n\nWhirlpool Dryer Lint Screen Filter 8557882,\nSold by Appliance Care Store\n\nThis one works perfectly! And it is white, not ivory.  When it came, it was not folded up like the first one. Looks to be a better quality than the first one I got too. It was slightly more expensive than the first but worth it.\nSo second one is 5 stars but first is 1 star. Wish they had these products listed as different items b/c they are not exactly the same.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1661, "id": 102549, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 179, "len_tokens": 215, "text": "We recently purchased this fridge to store beer, wine and water as these items were taking up too much room in our kitchen fridge.  We got an awesome lightning deal and only paid about $150.  We took Ken Dugal's advise (see review from February 28, 2017) and adjusted the thermostat screw behind the cover on the back before plugging in the fridge.  Our drinks are now very cold at 36 degrees and that is with the temperature knob set in the middle.  It was down below freezing before we adjusted the temperature knob.  We put a thermometer in the fridge overnight before we put in any drinks.  That way we could adjust without freezing anything.  We also purchased a small table to put the fridge on so that it is easier to get drinks out of the bottom.  They must have changed the spacing of rungs on the racks, because you no longer need mats to put on the shelves so that the bottles/cans don't tilt. We love the fridge thus far. It is perfect for what we wanted!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1662, "id": 387292, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 170, "len_tokens": 200, "text": "I  installed the drain replacement and time will tell if it allows the defrosted ice to flow to the evaporator tray. The old flume was frozen in the tray and part of the tray that hold the old and new part broke. The new part installed just like it was shown in the instructions, easy if you have good access to the rear of the Refrig. You still need to clear the ice behind the metal backing of the Refirg as well as clear the drain hole of the ice. If you don't then you will still have water flowing out of the freezer when it is defrosting. There are video on the web\" You Tube\" on taking the freezer door off and removing racks and panels to get to the drain, drain tray and coils to melt the ice. You may want to consider outside help for the defrosting. After studying the videos it took me about 2.5 hrs to do it all. Good Luck You Do It Yourselfers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1663, "id": 470255, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 236, "len_tokens": 288, "text": "I'd give it negative stars if I could.\n\nThis DW came brand new with the house we purchased 1.5 yrs ago.  We have city water, and eventually bought a $5000 water purification system that feeds into all water in the house - and STILL this dishwasher can't do the job!  I literally hand wash dishes before putting them into the DW and they sometimes come out dirtier. I've tried Jetdry, no Jetdry, more/less detergent, expensive/cheap detergent, varying degrees of food on dishes...no luck. It's been like this since we got the house and before and after installing the purification system.\n\nAnother infuriating thing that happens is that the top basket's track comes off of the plastic wheels attached to the wall. This requires you to have to clear both top/bottom baskets out of the DW, get waist deep in the DW with a flathead screwdriver to fight to remove some stubborn cap off the back end of the track so you can feed it back onto the wheels, and then with brute force, cap the back end of the track once it's on the wheels (Oh, I know this probably doesn't make sense unless you've had the misfortune).\n\nDon't be fooled by this DW's stainless steel looks. The top basket has always been loose, everything is of cheap quality and there are clearly way too many design flaws as evidenced by my complaints and others.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1664, "id": 468669, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 248, "len_tokens": 282, "text": "Been having this dryer with matching washer for the last 3 years now and it's great.  I prefer to wash small loads of clothes every day to every other day so it's definitely had some use. Very large and drys huge loads with a large assortment of different settings. Has no problem fitting my huge king size feather filled comforter that I had was too large for my last washer and dryer and had to be taken to the cleaners.\n\nThe quick dry works exactly as it should and it's what I mostly use since I do loads nearly everyday. The Quick dry setting has no issues drying a pair of jean, along with a couple pairs of shirts, socks, and underwear all in under 15 minutes.  The steam setting is probably my favorite and perfect when you need to quickly remove some wrinkles without ironing, and it also has a \"Pet Bedding\" setting as well which I use to wash both of our pet's beds.  It comes with a large plastic insert tray that goes inside the dryer in the very center allowing allowing you to dry shoes or other heavy, or delicate items items without them tumbling all around inside the drum.  I can fit up to three pairs of size 12 shoes on the plastic tray without any problems. Just wishing I would have purchased the bottom stands now when I bought the washer and dryer. It seems impossible to find just the stands now.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1665, "id": 96935, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 205, "len_tokens": 256, "text": "Amazon's part selector where you enter your model number (in my case a Maytag MSD2651HEB) and then it tells you if this will fit your fridge told me NO... this part is not for my fridge.  WRONG.  Glad I read the reviews, if you've got a dual-door Maytag that's around 10 years old this model works perfectly.  The only thing I needed to do to get it to fit the fill tube properly is cut a small piece of plastic that looks like it should be perforated for removal but isn't.  I used a razor blade to remove it, an exacto knife or scissors will work just as well.  The piece looks like it was designed to be removed but wasn't perforated at the factory and had to be cut out to fit my fill tube.  Everything else is self-explanatory to install (you will need to keep your old wiring harness).  Installed it, turned my freezer down as cold as possible (temporarily to get it going) and I had new ice within a couple of hours.  Turned my freezer back to my normal level and haven't had a problem since.  GREAT alternative to spending 2 or 3 times as much for a stock part.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1666, "id": 536111, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 193, "len_tokens": 232, "text": "1 Year later and this thing is still awesome, it just produced two beers that were cold enough to make me write a review! We were looking at a $900 GE and decided to try our luck with this at 468 last year. If you read good reviews youll pick up a few tips, heres what i did, first cut out the sides of the cabinets you are sliding it in-between, even a 2'1' hole helps a ton. Mine is a triple drawer base cabinet on one side and a big sink main base cabinet on the other so i cut out big rectangular holes. Next, don't over fill or leave empty, don't cram 50 warm drinks in and crank it to max cool either, once it gets cool your good, mine stays at 37 degrees dead set unless i leave the door open a bit long or add a lot of room temp drinks then maybe 38-39 tops. We have  water bottles at the very bottom then a box of Capri suns and then 6-8 beers, which unfortunately don't stand up well on the wire racks other than that we love it!!!!!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1667, "id": 522538, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 233, "len_tokens": 261, "text": "Full disclosure I bought my range from another retailer when it went on sale but I wanted to review since there are so few.\nThe range looks awesome, and the five burners on the 36 in are perfect for cooking for a crowd and canning fitting my large pots perfectly. The large oven is nice to have.\nThe drawbacks: I had to have an electrician upgrade my outlet and a plumber install a new gas line to accommodate the specs on the range, we were renovating at the time so not a huge deal, but unexpected.\nThe issues I have had was the delivery expected me to come and get the stove at the end of my driveway and bring it to the house myself, for such an expensive item they could do better here. Also the service from Eurochef who is responsible for the warranty work in the US has been terrible, I mean really really poor. My oven started acting up a few weeks after instal, fan running but no heat. They send out a tech that I had to wait over a week for, and he had never worked on Verona before. It ultimately took 3 service calls and multiple calls to Eurochef to resolve.\nIn the end I like the product but knowing what I know about how bad the warranty service is, I would spend your money elsewhere.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1668, "id": 50869, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 149, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "I first looked at this machine because it was touted as energy-saving. No heating element. Uses the heat from your hot water. Not food disposer. Just a filter that you have to clean.  Well, let me tell you...I'll pay the extra $50 a year in energy savings to get a dishwasher that WASHES DISHES! Yes, the unit is extremely quiet, good looking, and energy effecient. But it doesn't do what it intended to do. Clean your dishes! I've tried every combo of detergent and rinse agent, and my dishes are still filmed.  Within the same load, some are spotless and some are filthy. It make no sense.  And then there is the stench! Everyone else has mentioned it, and it's true. After 2 days of non-use, this thing start to really stink. Bosch had great intentions with this unit, but in reality, it doesn't work.  Just find something else.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1669, "id": 245527, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 204, "len_tokens": 257, "text": "Like someone else said, the filters came FOLDED in a small envelop.  For this price, they could have at least put them in a regular sized envelop.  Shipping was one day late but I don't necessarily fault the seller for that.  The product is as described but I really feel ripped off.  I mean, come on, twenty something dollars for 4 of these and on odd-shaped filter?  I bought them because I had no choice.  I couldn't find them anywhere else but I will try making my own out of felt next time.  For this price, there should have been a box full of them (at least 10 to 15) and they are paper thin, as one other reviewer pointed out, and weigh next to nothing, so that sure saves the seller on shipping costs.  So, my main complaint is not with the product, per se, but with the cost of the product.  I can't see how throwing in a few more filters would hurt the seller (cost-wise) and would make for happier customers.  On a side note, I have found that using a lint brush, after each setting, really prolongs that life of these things.  However, using the lint brushes gets expensive too.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1670, "id": 383814, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 158, "len_tokens": 220, "text": "This item arrived well packaged.  No install instructions are necessary, FIRST.. manualy trip the circuit breaker to your dishwasher, thn simply open up the front panel of the dishwasher using a phillips screwdriver,\nand remove the old control panel.  Install the new one, and hook up the connectors (plugs are already installed) and re-energize the circuit breaker and turn the unit on.\nMy original touch-button panel was likely OVER-pressed (someone in the family thinks that if pressing the button lightly is good...then pressing it repeatedly and HARD must be better)...and damaged the switch membranes.  At least that was my HOPE.  I took a chance and ordered this after the \"reboot\" instructions from the original dishwasher installation manual no longer worked.  (Read your manual.  It has you press \"heated dry, normal wash, heated dry, normal wash to re-set the computer.\"  IF that doesn't work...then this panel may work for you.  It did for me.  HAPPY!  VERY VERY HAPPY.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1671, "id": 121756, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 211, "len_tokens": 248, "text": "This combo fit my whirlpool dryer, leq9508pw1, perfectly. I looked up the replacement model numbers on the whirlpool website before ordering. My dryer was turning, but producing no heat. I do not routinely do handy work around the house, but I either had to attempt to fix this myself or wait over a week for a repairman. Prior to ordering the item I watched a YouTube video to gage the difficulty of the project, and it really seemed pretty easy. I had the dryer back taken off and the old heating element out within 10 minutes. I ran into a bit of dificulty putting the thermometer and heating element together. I would have liked to see the thermometer installed in the heater element since they were sold together. It took me a few minutes to put the two together and I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers. After that step, it was another 10 minutes to put everything back together and close the back of the dryer. All in all, the project only took about 30 minutes. I was happy to fix my dryer for under $25 since a repairman would have charged over $100.\n\nI will update my review if I find any problems with the product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1672, "id": 38912, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 175, "len_tokens": 232, "text": "I got this kegerator in December 2011 and I've been happy with how cold it keeps the beer.  However, there are a lot of problems with this kegerator:\n1. Really poor quality casters.  This isn't a huge deal but because they have a ridge down the center and no give, they left lines in our floor when rolled.\n2. Moderately loud burbling noise when on.  Kind of annoying, but not a dealbreaker.\n3. The compressor has steadily gotten louder and louder and is now *extremely* annoying.  This is the reason for the 1-star review.  About 4 months after we started using this kegerator, the compressor started to get a lot more noticeable when it clicks on.  This is in an adjacent room from our living room, so it was a little annoying.  Now it's really loud.  You can hear it throughout the first floor of our house.\n\nUnless you're keeping this thing in a garage or basement, this unit is probably too loud.  I'm looking into spending more money on a higher quality kegerator now.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1673, "id": 482926, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 156, "len_tokens": 201, "text": "I have owned GE appliances for all of my adult life.  Prior to moving to Florida, we did a whole-house remodel in CA and used all GE Profile appliances including an induction cook-top and two convection ovens.  It was wonderful.  We didn't want to begin another remodel so we decided to purchase this slide-in model.  The cook-top works like a dream but the convention oven is anything but.  The oven has a temp fluctuation of +/- 25 degrees.  That can be a 50 degree range.  And GE's idea of convection cooking has nothing to do with true convection.  The fan only runs until the oven reaches the set temp!  Now I thought something was broken - but NO -\nthe GE repairman assured me that everything was operating as designed.  It's a crock - and to call this induction is FALSE ADVERTISING!!!\nWe will never by anything with a GE brand on it again.  BUYER BEWARE.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1674, "id": 218086, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 228, "len_tokens": 277, "text": "Got this for a long term RV trip.  I am amazed by what this unit can do.  It has been able to handle a couple of huge bath towels without a hickup.  I would get cramps trying to wring out a small amount of clothing and when I would hang the hand wrung items on a line they would start dripping after a few minutes.  Not with this spinner!  Just a few minutes and the clothes come out almost dry.  Never any drips on the line after using this.  I like the simplicity of this unit.  Stuff, close lid it starts, open lid it stops, remove almost dry stuff.  I don't even worry about doing any wringing before I put the wet things in the spin dryer.  I have a system when I have to do more than one load of laundry.  Do my first batch, throw it in the dryer, collect some of the water from the dryer to add to my second wash. (hate to waste soap, and water!)  Do my second wash,  dump my wash water, put the dried laundry into my first rinse water while I dry my second batch of washed items.  Then repeat the rinse process.  Just for curiosity I ran laundry in the Nina out of a HE washer and found I could reduce the drying time for my HE dryer!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1675, "id": 214380, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 196, "len_tokens": 220, "text": "I'm running my first load now, it started right up, no issues with the band coming off during transit and it's heating up just fine. It's considerably quiet too! My cat looked at it for a couple of minutes and just walked right by it not scared at all and he hates loud noises.\n\nI am giving this four out of five stars because the back panel does not sit completely flat and it comes right up to the edge and I can assure you it is VERY SHARP! I was trying to move it into place and my hand slipped and the edge of the back panel sliced right down the edge of my thumb through my fingernail and skin (gross I know, but hopefully this will make sure you're careful if you grab around the back of the unit) and left me with metal splinters in my hand.\n\nUnfortunately because it's larger than I had anticipated, I am going to have to move it again... When I do, I will be padding the edges of the back panel and using straps since my petite arms don't quite wrap around the unit all the way.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1676, "id": 555209, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 214, "len_tokens": 267, "text": "Are you a DIYer?  Are you handy?  Are you somewhat familiar with PEX?  If so, you can do your own plumbing projects.  PEX is easy to use and pretty forgiving of mistakes.  The key here is using Sharkbite items with your PEX. I recently installed a new laundry area in our downstairs.  I checked on having the work done and it was going ot be almost $1000 for the running of the new water lines, installing a washer box, drain, etc.  I read up on the requirements to meet code and ordered this washer box along with the other parts I needed.\n\nThis washer box is very well built and sturdy.  It is highly flexible, allowing you to install it either from a top water feed or bottom water feed.  You simply have to reverse the location of the valves.  It has three separate knockouts for drains.  The knockouts punch out easily and with little effort.  The connections are push in connectors which are very easy to use, simply cut your PEX, debur, make sure your cut is straight and insert into the valve.  If you mess up, no worries, just press the ring around the valve and pull the PEX out.  I cannot recommend this any higher for a great looking laundry job.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1677, "id": 306991, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 183, "len_tokens": 223, "text": "This dryer is okay. The size is perfect. It came without any dents or scratches like some of the reviews mentioned. The only issue I have with this dryer so far is that it takes a LONG time. I find that the portable washer load size is not compatible to the dryer. I ended up hang drying half of my load and using the dryer for the other half. Also, I recommend ventilating this dryer. The whole room was like a sauna while it was running. It has to run on the high heat setting, the other settings are not efficient. If you are using a portable washer, spinning the clothes for the maximum time and then using the dryer helps cut a bit of the time! Overall, not a bad purchase.\n\nUpdate: 4/26/18-This dryer has completely stopped working. Not sure what is going on with it.\n\nUpdate 6/10/18-The replacement dryer stopped working this evening. There is a possibility that it overheats. I tried it again 30 minutes later and it started working again. Its weird. Im wondering if Im doing something wrong...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1678, "id": 88289, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "Anyone who thinks they don't have a problem with lint should look at these pictures.  My house is only 10 years old and this is what came out of our vent.  That doesn't even include what was cleaned out from our dryer filter and what was in just the dryer unit.  This product is very easy to use.  I definitely suggest taping each junction to make sure they don't separate in the vent.  I broke my cleaning into 4 cleanings. Fist cleaning was with just the brush and the first extension.  After ensuring that section is clean I added the second and so forth until the brush came out clean.  Given the length of the brush with all four sections, I found it easier to have another set of hands guide the brush into the vent while the other set was operating the drill.\nI noticed that when I turned the dryer back on there was some lint that was dislodged and blew out the outside vent opening.  Unfortunately in my case some lodged between the slats and is keeping the vent opening from fully closing.  I will be making a trip up my ladder once the ground dries a little so I can remove those pieces.  A little price to pay for a clean vent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1679, "id": 455359, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 235, "len_tokens": 283, "text": "I bought this machine years ago and I just wanted to take a minute to tell everyone - THIS MACHINE SUCKS!  I hate my washing machine.  It is all moldy, mildewy, and stinky.  I have to buy extra products that claim to clean it, but nothing works anyway.  Sometimes the smell will seem reduced, but then my daughter will do a load and forget to leave the door open and we're back to square 1.  The machine normally has the door open which is right in the way of the exit from the house to the garage, so the door is always banging around and hitting things.  That is the only way to keep the stink to a lower level -- but even with that the smell never goes away.\n\nThe other day it was making a weird noise and I actually felt happy that the machine might be breaking so that I could replace it.  It was so expensive that I didn't want to replace it earlier and I contacted LG and couldn't get a refund.  Guess it's time to bite the bullet and trash this thing.  I wouldn't even offer to give it away for $0 on Craigslist.  No one should be saddled with this terrible washing machine.\n\nI will never buy another LG appliance.  There is no way that their engineers didn't know that they were selling a faulty, defective, terrible product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1680, "id": 228732, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 168, "len_tokens": 203, "text": "Bought this because the bellow on my Whirlpool Front Load washer Model# WFW9050XW00 started to mold and tear.  Anyway this is the 3rd bellow that I have had on my washer however this is the first that I purchased and installed independently.  First of all $70 for a rubber ring is sad, however it was either this or a new washer (which will be soon, because I HATE front load washers).  Anyway, installation was fairly easy because there are a bunch of youtube videos out there that tell you what screws to locate and remove to take apart the front panels of the washer.  I found that the most difficult part was the outer retaining ring that is held together with a spring, you definitely need some channel locks or pliers to expand the spring enough to go around the outer lip around the barrel opening.  As far as the product, it is of good quality and fit so thumbs up for that, boo on the price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1681, "id": 516869, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 214, "len_tokens": 262, "text": "My washer broke again. We only do 47 loads of laundry a dayhow could our dryer possibly break down? After diagnosing the problem, the dreaded coils were at faultagain. Locally, these buggers are expen$ive. Last time I purchased them, I remortgaged the house and bought the lifetime replacement coils from our appliance repair store only to have them go out of business a month later. Im thinking the appliance repair center finalized their purchase of a small Bermuda Island with just the money I forked over to them for coils. When I purchased the lifetime coilsthat must have been the closing cost that they needed.\n\nThese coils were a direct fit for our Whirlpool dryer. Fit and installation was a breeze and we were again able to wash & dry the 73 different daily outfit changes for our kids.  It has been almost a year now and the appliance is still going strong. What a relief.\n\nGreat quality here and it is passing the rigorous torture test in our home.  That should say enough for anyone to jump in and buy a set. I really cannot say enough good things and the price is terrific to boot. All in all, give these a try!\n\nFYI: Our Whirlpool gas dryer is a model # WGD5840SW", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1682, "id": 207835, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 167, "len_tokens": 216, "text": "As the title says, it works as advertised. It's a direct replacement for the bad bearing. This can be done with one man, but a second set of hands to help hold the carriage bolt on the outside of the drum is helpful. 15-30 minute job if you're handy with tools at all. Make sure you have the tools necessary on hand to speed up the process. Watched a video (link provided by another reviewer) prior to starting and didn't have any issues.\n\nTools needed:\n\n1) Phillips screw driver\n2) 22mm extra thin walled deep socket (7/8\" socket will work fine, that's what we used)\n3) 5mm Allen wrench\n\nAll in all extremely satisfied. Our Fisher Paykel washer/dryer combo is right at six years old, but it sees a LOT of duty (I do laundry at least once a day, not including sheets, etc.) If I have to replace the bearing every 5-7 years I can live with that as we absolutely love the top load dryer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1683, "id": 432972, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 233, "len_tokens": 266, "text": "This thing is a life saver and is absolutely huge. Which I love! Im able to do almost a full load of laundry with each run I do. The pump is phenomenal and the agitator is extremely powerful. There are a few things I don't like which is why I can only do 4 stars. The first thing is the lint trap is completely useless. I take it out every load, and I might fine 1 hair in there every now and then. The power chord is too short. If the out let isn't close to the floor youll need an extension chord at least for my bathroom set up. The top where the knobs are gets water in it for some reason. Not a big deal but I fear for mold one day?? The water inlet hose is completely useless, it does do the job, but the time it takes to actually fill the tub is beyond too long. I just use a bucket. The last and final thing is the drain hose. I drain the water into the toilet so I don't risk a drain clog in my sink or tub. The hose just isn't long enough if you need it to reach the other side of your washer, thankfully a $6 extender worked wonders. All in all this thing is a beauty. I do not regret my purchase at all", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1684, "id": 485088, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 155, "len_tokens": 206, "text": "We brought this to replace a five-year-old high-end Frigidaire unit with front-loading washer.  The Frigidaire had developed bearing problems in the washer drum (common to this model) and made a horrendous racket in spin cycle.  Frigidaire doesn't supply the bearings alone; one has to replace the entire drum assembly for around $500 including installation labor.  Additionally, the Frigidaire had very small capacity, especially in the washer.\nThe new GE unit overcomes both these problems; and in addition is very quiet while operating...much more so that our previous unit even before the bearing problems.  A few other reviews of this product complained about kit damaging clothes, but we haven't had this problem.  In fact, the only deficiency we've identified is that it lacks a buzzer or other signal that the dryer is finished.  If it had one we'd give it a maximum rating.\n\nInstallation was very straightforward and took only about 45 minutes.\n\nWe love it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1685, "id": 84408, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 162, "len_tokens": 213, "text": "Looked at a number of cooktops. We decided to go Bosch all the way, and also got Bosch wall oven and dishwasher too. This is the best 30\" cooktop out there. All the other 5 burner designs we looked at are useless because, yes you technically get 5 burners, but they're all so small and crammed together you'd be better with just the standard 4 burner. The Bosch 5 burner is the only one that's really thought-though the layout.. The main centre burner is really hot. The grates are heavy and substantial looking. They'll get good and greasy over time and never be cleaned :). And the knobs are metal not plastic so the whole thing looks high-end.  (sidenote: A salesperson tried to sell us a Dacor cooktop that was far more expensive, but fortunately i looked at the reviews and thought to stay away from Dacor. A friend bought a Dacor stovetop and the igniter stopped working in months.).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1686, "id": 461793, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 188, "len_tokens": 240, "text": "Do not buy from Maytag.  We bought our top of the line 5000 series in 2008.  We have had the sud/ f35 error twice.  We use HE detergent only and the correct amount.  The first time the repair required a new sensor, $400 with parts and labor.  The new sensor lasted 3 years and now we have the same error again.  Repair came out to diagnose the problem.  They said we needed another new sensor, the same part.  Technician said that it's a very common problem with Maytag.  They ordered the part and when they came back to install it, the new technician said that it wasn't the sensor but rather the entire control board that needs to be replaced.  One glitch he said that they don't make the control boards anymore!  Another $145 for the service call.  Luckily he agreed to take the $200 new sensor back and not charge me.  I have a top load machine at another home that lasted over 20 years with not one issue.  Maytag customer service is no help at all...I'm sure they get many angry and disappointed customers calling everyday.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1687, "id": 59788, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 192, "len_tokens": 256, "text": "We've owned this dishwasher for one year. Four repair calls so far . . . one of those repairs was an installation error, so that's forgivable. But the other three were for leaks that caused the instrument panel to flash, with all lights blinking. The \"all lights blinking\" error is so common for this Electrolux dishwasher (just check the Internet) that, ta-da, it's part of the lore of the model. If you buy one, beware--you will likely undergo the same issue. Luckily we bought the extended four-year warranty or we'd be up a leaky dishwasher creek without a paddle. So every few months, it happens again, we call the repair service, they come and fix it, it works a few more months, ad nauseum. Whatever is up with this model, Electrolux needs to do better or they will face a class-action lawsuit. We paid $1000 for this defective dishwasher. Sadly, when the machine is working, I love it--it cleans effectively, it's whisper quiet, it's an EnergySaver, and it has a ton of features. C'mon, Electrolux--all that engineering you put into designing the thing and you neglect to make it leak-resistant? For shame.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1688, "id": 88404, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "So, this is what life comes down to when you are 50 years old:  reviewing dryer vent cleaners while sitting at your kitchen table waiting for American Idol.  This is not what I envisioned when I was 12, I can tell you that much.  You kids who think it won't happen to you?\n\nIt will.  Sorry to burst your bubble.\n\nThat said, the product works great.  Our dryer pretty much stopped working and we were thinking we needed a new one, which was seriously going to eat into my plastic surgery budget.  One last shot before a trip to the appliance store was this Gardus LintEater.  My husband, who is not the handy one of the family, had to do the work as I have a torn labrum.  (Which sounds dirtier than it is - that's part of your shoulder.)  He, the clumsiest man in the world, had absolutely no problem using this.  I warned him to read the directions first, and he actually listened and followed.  He hooked it up to the drill, and away he went.  He got a bunch of musty, wet lint that had probably been up inside the wall since 1977  - probably consisting of bell bottom material and macram.\n\nNow our dryer actually dries clothes again, and I can continue to save for my facelift. Thank you Gardus.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1689, "id": 454957, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 186, "len_tokens": 231, "text": "Never, ever purchase this product or you will have the months of aggravation that I have experienced... I had a wonderful Maytag stackable which was perfect... had it for 15 years without an issue and then moved.  I was unlucky enough to move into a home with the Frigidaire, brand new.  Lint and dust cover the opening of the machine after every cycle.  The lint goes into the open area under the door (WTF???? an open area above the lint trap when door is closed--are you kidding?) and I literally have to clean around the door, INTO the door and around the opening and into the lint trap before I even get the clothes out or lint will go all over clothing.  This isn't the worst of it... clothes take hours to dry... What a piece of dog doo.... I will take the hit and buy another Maytag.  Did they even beta test this dud... probably not and I'm sure the \"engineers\" have never done a load in their life to let this lemon come to market.  insult to injury, I have to give one star....", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1690, "id": 402332, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 194, "len_tokens": 234, "text": "I received and used this little guy last night. Came in perfect condition, does have that slight odor another reviewer mentioned. But not too bad. Use much less soap so we'll save some money there as well. Washed a full set of sheets which came out pretty much dry. I'd say after 15min of hang drying, they were completely dry and ready to put back on the bed. I bought the hose attachments, but honestly, if you have a shower arm, you can just save the money and use that to fill the washing tank. That's what I ended up doing. You do have to walk back and forth a few times, as the entire process takes exactly 15min of wash time and 5min of spin time, but I'd much rather do it in the comforts of my own home then spend a day at the Laundromat. Also, I live in a walk-up apartment in NYC, so this saves me a lot of hassle. I do recommend a little lint trap, mine is still 'en route' so I will review that once I receive it. Thanks Giantex for making our lives A LOT easier!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1691, "id": 65863, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 217, "len_tokens": 253, "text": "This thing is GREAT!  I have about a 24 foot dryer exhaust pipe running between floors in my house.  I bought this and 12 ft of extension.  I carefully read some of the reviews and made sure I slowly inserted the fiberglass poles, after insuring they were tight and wrapped with duct tape.  You do NOT want to reverse direction of your drill when using this.  I can not imagine having to retrieve a pole that has disconnected and is inside the pipe.  The only problem I had was starting from outside the house and running the dryer so it would blow lint out as I went. I found since mine was so clogged I actually created a damn of lint near the dryer inside the vent. This was where the vent pipe took a turn up.  However, after determining the cause I went into the house and used the supplied cutter attachment and slowly proceeded towards the outside of the house.  I could feel the clog and soon the cutter had made its way thru the blockage.  Using a leaf blower I inserted it into the vent from the interior and two softball size lint balls blew out.  System cleared!!!  All is good.  Just be sure to take your time and do not reverse your drill.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1692, "id": 75306, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 176, "len_tokens": 226, "text": "I bought it to use the remote sensor in my cigar humidor so I wouldn't have to lift the lid every day to check the humidity.  The readings were never even in the same ballpark as reality.  I compared it against my calibrated digital hygrometer in the humidor. It swung wildly up and down, but at its best it was at least 20% off on humidity and 10 degrees in temperature.  Usually it was more like 30 - 40% off.  I had figured that if it wasn't accurate enough for the humidor, I could at least use as an indoor/outdoor thermometer as it is intended.  However, it is so inaccurate that's its useless even for that.  Even the \"indoor\" part is usually pretty far off.  Unfortunately, I kept it too long (3 months) to return it, hoping it would eventually settle down, but it never got any better.  I hate to be wasteful, but since it serves no function other then taking up physical space, it is going in the garbage.  Do NOT waste your money.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1693, "id": 40418, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 184, "len_tokens": 221, "text": "As the title states, the fan in this range hood is much, much better than the fan we had in the fan/microwave combo.  We did a lot of searching and research and the fan motors with the combo units are not as powerful.  So we had really hoped for a great fan when we installed range hood only unit.  While it is better than before, I still find I have to run it for a long time or in combination with opening the kitchen window (brrr, in the winter!) to get odors out of the kitchen.\n\nThe plus side is the fan is also much quieter than expected.  When we have it turn on half power, it can easily pull a paper towel up to it.  And the noise level between half power and full is negligible.  It also looks very nice.  We don't have the configuration in the kitchen for a really big fan or a modern curved look.  This looks really nice above our stainless gas stove/oven.  While I would buy this again, I only wish it had a little more power.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1694, "id": 146875, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 233, "len_tokens": 296, "text": "Women always say men don't listen.  But, I did.  And apparently this time it didn't go over well with my wife.\n\nYou see, our silverware basket was basically wore out.  When closing the dishwasher, the door on the basket would flip open.  This annoyed my wife like nothing else.  So, I decided that instead of giving it an easy \"man fix\"... grab a few bread bag ties and semi-permanently close the door on the basket... I'd order her a new one for Christmas.\n\nAs she opened it up this past Christmas morning, the look on her face was priceless.  I thought, \"she LOVES it, you listened to her and she's going to be SO thankful\".  My thoughts were wrong.  What was a look of joy quickly turned to disgust and hearing her say \"you REALLY got me a silverware basket?\" made my heart sink.\n\nSo a lesson to all guys.  NEVER, ever listen to the lady in your life again.  If she's asking for a new silverware basket, get her a cat.  If she wants a new set of dishes, get her an all inclusive trip to Mexico.  Alway think opposite of what she really wants.\n\nI did receive a text while at work a few days after Christmas from my wife saying \"well, the door on the basket stays shut now!\".\n\nIt works fantastic.  I give the product 5 stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1695, "id": 240323, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 185, "len_tokens": 216, "text": "I rarely enter comments in these message boards but I wanted to say this worked for me too.  I felt a little uneasy about buying the rods - what if it didn't work.  I'd be out $50.00 or have to go thru the hassle of returning them to the vendor. But I really didn't want to pay a repairman $200.00.  So I took a chance and I must say it worked better than I expected. The washer seems to be quieter now than it ever did.  It was somewhat of a pain to get the lid up and to prop it up (I tied it up).  Getting the rods out actually is easier with two people.  My wife pulled them out while I pushed the drum out of the way.  When putting the new ones in I pulled up on the rods to get then in place while she pushed the drum.  We couldn't even figure out how we got them out but they did come out pretty easily. All in all it was great saving some money and getting a good result too!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1696, "id": 132475, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 249, "len_tokens": 283, "text": "I was VERY skeptical of this product after reading several reviews alleging this was somehow a counterfeit product. Long story short, this product is just as advertised and works perfectly.\n\nA few reviews I read mentioned that OEM filters are made in Korea, compared to this \"counterfeit\" which is made in Mexico. When I opened the box, the first thing I did was check to see where it was made. This product is indeed made in Mexico, so I was highly disappointed at first and fully expected to have to send this back. But I took out my OEM filter to replace with this one, and to my surprise, the original product in my refrigerator was also made in Mexico. After seeing this, I decided to give it a try. I listened very closely for any \"strange noises\" coming from the fridge that other reviewers said occurred when using this filter. Nothing. There were no strange sounds, no lack of water pressure, absolutely nothing happened, and there was no change to my fridge after installing with this Amazon product.\n\nMy only guess is that people are not choosing the correct part number for their refrigerator. Samsung doesn't make it super easy to find the exact model numbers of their units, so maybe this is the cause of the bad reviews. If you match your model number with this filter, you will have no problems with this product. Highly recommended, especially for the low price compared to local retail stores.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1697, "id": 87441, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "Anyone who thinks they don't have a problem with lint should look at these pictures.  My house is only 10 years old and this is what came out of our vent.  That doesn't even include what was cleaned out from our dryer filter and what was in just the dryer unit.  This product is very easy to use.  I definitely suggest taping each junction to make sure they don't separate in the vent.  I broke my cleaning into 4 cleanings. Fist cleaning was with just the brush and the first extension.  After ensuring that section is clean I added the second and so forth until the brush came out clean.  Given the length of the brush with all four sections, I found it easier to have another set of hands guide the brush into the vent while the other set was operating the drill.\nI noticed that when I turned the dryer back on there was some lint that was dislodged and blew out the outside vent opening.  Unfortunately in my case some lodged between the slats and is keeping the vent opening from fully closing.  I will be making a trip up my ladder once the ground dries a little so I can remove those pieces.  A little price to pay for a clean vent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1698, "id": 26132, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 134, "len_tokens": 202, "text": "This was a perfect fit for my InSinkErator Disposal Model No. 555SS! I cut off the old baffle, slid this one in and voila! Done! Not more than a 5 minute installation.\nWhen my old baffle finally disintegrated after 13 years of use, I was dismayed when told (by the less informed) that I would have to replace the entire disposal (which had nothing wrong with it) just to get a new baffle. I was beyond relieved to discover this product, shocked at the no-risk price and overjoyed at how well it's doing the job!\nThis product works with more than just InSinkErator's \"Badger\" disposal as noted in the description. Listed on the label are also the following models: 444, 555SS, 777SS, 60S, 80S, 100SS, Pro 333, Pro SS, Pro 77, and Evergrind Accessory.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1699, "id": 333971, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 210, "len_tokens": 244, "text": "This is a big waste of money. When the package arrived it was shrink wrapped.  As soon as I took the shrink wrap off, the items fell all over the floor because there was hardly anything left of the box. I took all the items out and put them together only to find that the  plug was European so I needed to purchase  an adaptor to use it  in the United States. I went to Walmart and spent another $11,00 for the adaptor. I proceeded to put it together only to find that the hole in the bag was too high so that the blower could not sit level on the floor.  It looked like it needed a piece if hose, but it didn't come with one. The hole in the bag was also too large to keep the plastic end of the blower in the bag tightly. I turned the blower on and it hardly blew out any  air.  I turned it off, then back on, and the knob fell off.  I couldn't get it back on because it broke. I could have made a better clothes dryer by using a hamper and a blow dryer which is pretty much what this is, but doesn't work as well!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1700, "id": 93006, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 228, "len_tokens": 262, "text": "I purchased these to replace the OEM filters that I have been spending $45 a piece on at Lowes. Everything I read about these filters indicated longer life and obviously a MUCH better value from a cost perspective. They were well packaged and fit perfectly. The only thing is a slightly 'off' plastic taste. As I do with OEM filters I flushed several gallons through the filter before using any of the water. Still, there was this persistent bitter plastic taste. After running several more gallons through it the taste began to diminish and has become less noticeable over time. I have used dozens of filter / softener technologies over the last 20 years and this is the first time I have had this taste perception issue. I willl have to see what the next filter is like in several months to determine if I will purchase again.\n\n+++++ 7/14 update: The first of the three filters is about due for a replacement. This really isn't any longer than the OEM Samsung filter. However, we did have an extra person in our household for many months of it's life so it may have given an extra 10-20%. Other than that there is nothing else to report, the water was fine after cycling an extra couple of gallons out of it at start-up with no other taste perception issues.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1701, "id": 482918, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 190, "len_tokens": 243, "text": "Leaves lint residue all over my work and workout clothes. Ripped seams on two brand new work tops. We've had 3 service companies make 5 service calls over 7 months and still have no resolution. We've done everything all of their contridictory advice offered...bigger load, smaller load, less soap, arrangement in drum, extra rinse cycle, DO use all the custom settings, DON'T use all the custom settings, sanitize the machine. We've had 3 control panels and the water valve replaced so far. Whirlpool customer service continues to request service calls. After the 5th call, we cannot afford to take off work for a 6th one. They will NOT replace this machine and offered zero escalation point. Technicians are not paid for warranty calls so don't look for their help either. Warranty only covers parts NOT replacement. Returns were only allowed within the first 15 days of delivery - BUYER BEWARE! One service company suggested that front loaders are more gentle and do not leave this residue - which is COMMON with HE toploaders due to goverment water restrictions. DO NOT BUY THIS MACHINE!!! Collasal waste of money, time and stress!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1702, "id": 262111, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 162, "len_tokens": 229, "text": "This thing is awesome.  I live alone in a small apartment without washer/dryer hookups.  I used to spend a crapton of money at the laundromat every week to clean my clothes.  I bought this together with the Pan30 washer http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G9EHGDK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and they go perfectly together.  The dryer fits pretty much the exact same amount of clothes as the washer does.  It does sometimes take a long while to get your clothes completely dry, especially with stuff like towels or heavier clothing, but it gets the job done.  You may want to invest in an iron if you don't already have one, as it does tend to wrinkle shirts quite a bit, and there's no lint trap so you'll need to find some other way of removing lint.  Despite any flaws it may have, just being able to do my own laundry in my own home is priceless.  Both the washer and dryer fit perfectly into the bottom of my hallway closet.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1703, "id": 555410, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 209, "len_tokens": 245, "text": "GE really does suck. We bought a GE washer and dryer in January 2015. The washer broke down in October, after only 9 months. The warranty ran out yesterday. They came out yesterday and \"fixed\" the piece of s*** for the THIRD time since October. They refuse to replace the piece of junk. I've already purchased a Speed Queen washer and dryer to replace this GE garbage because I can't be without a washer for months on end. Customer service has been useless and the idiots in the GE \"tech\" department refuse to listen to the repairmen they send out to service their garbage. They send out a repair man and have him call them to discuss what the issue is. Then when the repairman tells them it's been repaired THREE times and needs to be replaced they REFUSE to take his advice and simply replace the same parts on it again. The consumer is powerless to do anything about it. You can't win against a giant like GE. You can, however, tell EVERYONE you know to avoid GE products at all costs. I will NEVER buy another GE product. They don't give a s*** about the consumer and just run you in circles until the warranty runs out.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1704, "id": 116385, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 214, "len_tokens": 274, "text": "This machine was  purchased from HH Gregg to go in a 2nd floor laundry room. I explained it would be going on a second floor and the rep said this was a 2nd floor approved model!  So I bought it, with the pedastools for elevation.\n\n First, it shook my entire house to the point all light fixtures would shake during the spin cycle and popped dry wall screws everywhere.  I have three children and do alot of laundry.  I called HH GREGG who did NOTHING for me.  I called a whirlpool tech, the sent me to a second level of escalation.  The tech came out and told me that the pedastools negated the efficient balancing of the machine.(there was 150.00 out the door)  Then he told us it was in balance and that was all he could do.  Still shook the whole house.\n\nThen, within the first 14 months, the seal broke and it leaked all over the place.  That was when a great service guy came out and told me to grease the seal every 60 days.  Sure enough, the shaking stopped.\n\nNow, just over two years into the machine, the seal broke AGAIN!  This time destroying my kitchen ceiling.  It cost me 242.00 to repair it.\n\nWhirlpool lost this lifetime customer!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1705, "id": 311382, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 182, "len_tokens": 212, "text": "Whynter is making some great products these days and the CUF-110B Upright Freezer is yet another addition to their excellent small appliance line. I use this in my bar area for whiskey ice cubes and chilled liquors and it is just the right size. I imagine in an office or home it would work well to add a bit more freezer space for smaller things, but you certainly won't fit a frozen turkey or something inside (nor are you meant to - this is an office type appliance and I imagine not many turkeys get roasted in the office). It is about 20 by 18 inches and sits snug up against the wall. I love Whynter's classy black style and the fact that I can flip the door around to be used in either direction is wonderful. The lock works great, though it took me a second to figure out, and it is great for keeping unwanted hands out of the liquor. It is also very quiet, which isn't super important for my purposes, but very nice in an office setting.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1706, "id": 456359, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 208, "len_tokens": 247, "text": "One month old and the element on the front bridge is not working. I have only used the element 3 times and never bridged. Calling customer service was a 42 minute call, even though they already had our address and information from the phone number and the women was especially obtuse. They want a proof of warranty, but we did not receive a receipt from the builder. Builder said show them settlement papers. We will see what happens.\n\nIf the element had not gone out I would give it 3 stars. It is hell to keep clean, even though I am detailing it on a daily basis. Water spots, streaks, smears and smudges galore. I had a small spill of turkey broth with miscellaneous water spots and it took 5 minutes to clean off. I know because I set the timer for my tea just before commencing the cleaning. I expected to have to clean up spills and stuff, I just did not expect to have to scrub so hard or so long. You cannot go over it with a wet sponge while the stovetop is hot, like you would an enamel stovetop, to make it easier so everything gets dried onto it before you can clean it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1707, "id": 5938, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 183, "len_tokens": 221, "text": ". The person giving the tip about flipping the filter, to save on the filter life is quite correct. Thanks you.  I flip it a least twice a week, since the part on top drys out if you don't.  Adding a cap full of BestAir Bacteriostatic Algae & Order Treatment works great to make sure the filter does not mildew.  And forget about the guy that acted like this stuff was so poisonous that he would not have it around animals.  It is not different than bleach or antifreeze. Sure you should not let animals get in to it, but diluted ( a cap full in a gallon and half) cannot hurt anyone or anything,.  And yes you do not put your nose over top a bottle of beach to ammonia  either,  That can vapor lock your lungs. Same warning on the label.  So perfect safe if you treat it like bleach and ammonia, out of the reach of kids as many products should be.  So don't think that it going to be quiet and you would be real happy with this unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1708, "id": 535920, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 197, "len_tokens": 231, "text": "Never, ever order an appliance through an Amazon supplier. I have had nothing but horrific experiences with this. I have been in Amazon customer for over 15 years, and have ordered well over six figures worth of merchandise from it. The first time I ordered this unit, after it had been delayed for over a week, I contacted the supplier, which informed me at that point that the item was on back order. That did not keep them from having charged my credit card upon receiving my order. My second experience was even worse. I ordered the item, and it did arrive on time, but, as I was distracted with my kitchen remodel, I assumed that because it worked when plugged in it was OK. Only after the delivery man left, did I noticed it was bulgin on one side and dented on the other. It does not fit in the slot that we had built  for it. Unfortunately, as I was too trustingand signed off on the delivery, i have zero recourse except to pitch it into a dumpster and try again. Again: the lesson learned is: never, ever, ever order an appliance through Amazons associates.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1709, "id": 145675, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 178, "len_tokens": 205, "text": "When the dryer quit working I figured I would have to shell out hundreds (a thousand) for a new washer.  Did a Google search for \"washer stops during wash cycle and will not spin and will not pump water out\".  Read a couple of pages that suggested that it was likely this switch.  I opened the washer lid and used a screwdriver to press down the switch and noted that the lever was not functioning properly.  Watched on YouTube a video on how to take my dryer apart and how to replace the switch.  I was ready to order the switch from an appliance supplier for thirty some odd dollars, when I decided to see if it was available on Amazon.  Was I ever glad.  With my Prime membership I had the part in two days at a fraction of the price with free shipping.  Installation was a breeze following the instructions on YouTube.\n\nMy only misgiving: that I am not married and therefore there was no one there to impress when the washer came back to life.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1710, "id": 210047, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 198, "len_tokens": 223, "text": "A lot of the reviews on here are complaining about the fact that LG does not sell just the hub. Come on people this is a repair for a near thousand dollar washing machine for under 100 bucks. We were washing along and all of a sudden the machine started making a horrible sound similar to a coffee maker on steroids crossed with Frankenstein. No more spinning either. Upon a search of YouTube for lg washer repair I found out about this piece. I opened the back access panel and removed the 17 mm bolt and examined the rotor assembly and noted that the splines were in fact ground down due to the bolt loosening. I ordered this rotor from Amazon and selected overnight delivery (I refuse to go to a laundry mat). The next day (Saturday) FedEx showed up and within 5 minutes I am washing a load of clothes! (NOTE!!! Please be sure to have some thread locker to keep the bolt tight to avoid this miss-hap in the future!) Yes they could sell just the hub, they do not however..... This is a cheap fix even at 70 bucks for a great washing machine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1711, "id": 346087, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 153, "len_tokens": 268, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R24K5EWS9K2U93\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/B1lWaLSDxLS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/118FVB7Lr-S.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;I have a thirty six in bathroom vanity cabinet and I put the Wonder Washer on there and it fits perfectly. The Wonder Washer is stable when washing on top of the vanity.\n\nDo not overload the washer with water and clothing. I usually just put four shirts every time and set them up for fifteen minutes. For socks, I just put a six pairs just so that they have enough room to tumble.\n\nYou have to place it on a FLAT surface & don't OVERLOAD the washer.\n\nThis will not replace your LG or Samsung washer. If you have some clothing you need tomorrow, then this will fit your need. It will not take one basket full of clothing.\n\nMake sure to use High Efficient (HE) detergent. It is designed for washers that use low water for concentrated cleaning.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1712, "id": 88329, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "Anyone who thinks they don't have a problem with lint should look at these pictures.  My house is only 10 years old and this is what came out of our vent.  That doesn't even include what was cleaned out from our dryer filter and what was in just the dryer unit.  This product is very easy to use.  I definitely suggest taping each junction to make sure they don't separate in the vent.  I broke my cleaning into 4 cleanings. Fist cleaning was with just the brush and the first extension.  After ensuring that section is clean I added the second and so forth until the brush came out clean.  Given the length of the brush with all four sections, I found it easier to have another set of hands guide the brush into the vent while the other set was operating the drill.\nI noticed that when I turned the dryer back on there was some lint that was dislodged and blew out the outside vent opening.  Unfortunately in my case some lodged between the slats and is keeping the vent opening from fully closing.  I will be making a trip up my ladder once the ground dries a little so I can remove those pieces.  A little price to pay for a clean vent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1713, "id": 27790, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 180, "len_tokens": 217, "text": "This product should be marketed under ferret products because it is the perfect thing for ferret owners to purchase. Ferrets are natural burrowers, my dad tells the story that back in the 20's his father used a ferret when hunting rabbits to chase rabbits out of their burrows.  I purchased 4 sections.  The sections come with connectors.  Two sections connected together is long enough to go from the top of the stairs to the bottom.  My two ferrets will climb up and down, chasing after each other and get tons of exercise.  They use a section to climb in and out of the bath tub, and another section in the tub for some rough house playing.  People are entertained as they watch what goes on inside the tubes as one ferret crawls through one end and one ferret crawls through the other end and they meet in the middle.  They have a face off and one is forced to back out.  This is way better than what you can get at the major pet stores for ferret exercise and fun.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1714, "id": 54559, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 198, "len_tokens": 237, "text": "For the last 4 years, I've purchased this GE MSWF filter from Amazon without any issues, they had always had the best price and the filter worked like it should. Well this last one I got was a total dud. Followed the directions...filled filter with water, and installed in the fridge and very poor to no water would flow out. Also, the pump and water lines would make loud noises and vibrate when trying to dispense water. I disconnected the water lines and tested them in a bucket..no problems with the water supply flow. Disgusted, I bought another filter from a local big box store (H*me Dep*t) and this filter worked a little bit better..still makes noise sometimes and most of the time the flow is much less than the original filter I was trying to replace.  I give Amazon 5 stars for their return policy - for which I returned my defective filter. I give GE ZERO stars for whatever they did to the design of this filter...it sucks! I am planning to replace my filter with a bypass plug the next time it needs to be changed. I also will never buy another GE appliance product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1715, "id": 545819, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 175, "len_tokens": 242, "text": "Update: SS can hold magnets. However, it does easily scratch!\nDropped 1/2 star.\n\nThis is an awesome refrigerator/freezer combo.  After a minor re-model of the kitchen to accommodate the size, this is a great USEABLE addition to the kitchen.  I've only had it for a day and first impressions are SPOT ON!  Packing was great - to good as a matter of fact.  There was a tiny dent on the back (pics to follow) but since it is on the back, I really can't complain.  I would give 10 stars if it has a water dispenser!  I was very skeptical and read almost every review.  I haven't installed the trim kit yet...  more to follow on that!  I debated on the 48\" ref/freezers, but went with this instead.\n\nupdate: I've cleared out my garage side-by-side refrigerator and a deep freezer unit and these two units held everything!\n\nShipping was great!  Customer service (Cheetah Direct) was great too!  They delivered what they promised!  I contacted them before purchasing, and afterwards as well.  Amazing folks.  THANK YOU!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1716, "id": 98426, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 184, "len_tokens": 236, "text": "We've had the refrigerator for several months.  Tech guys have already been called out 3 times for the same issue....  ice continues to drip from the ice maker-tray right down into the water/ice dispenser causing a continuous puddle of water on the \"catch\" tray.\nThis problem does NOT go away even through twice they've changed the entire ice making mechanism.  It appears that the ice doesn't maintain its temperature properly in the upper refrigerator portion of the unit, causing it to stick together and constantly form a drip.  Besides this..... this beautiful frig makes enough ice for 2!  We are a family of 5.  At dinner time, we can never seem to get enough ice to fill our cups half way with ice (even if ice hasn't been used all day).  Ice compartment is too small.  FORGET having guests over..... I've been serving warm drinks after the 4th person!\n\nBesides this, It's beautiful and specious.  I wish it would work for us....but these small negatives are truly outweighing the positive.  Thinking about getting a side by side and avoiding this french door dilemma.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1717, "id": 262582, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 188, "len_tokens": 216, "text": "Perfect fit! I was very hesitate to buy these since they only showed the top. After reading the reviews and even though the oven number kept popping up unexpectedly different...I decided to take the plunge because they looked identical to my original knobs and the price made sense to me. Seeing $35 _40 was a bit much and then it might not work, now  I am so glad that I did! I have been looking for replacement knobs for years to go back on my oven timer and clock and I finally found them. FINALLY FOUND THEM!  I did have to glue the one that went on the clock as someone else stated (one prong end had broken off years ago). A few drops of crazy glue and now what looked old is like new! I am going to order another spare kit Just in case!\nUpdate: I added before and after photos. I have a GE electric range and this is the original # that I was searching for JBP26G0J23AD in case you have that kind of older model oven to know that they are compatible!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1718, "id": 71728, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 201, "len_tokens": 230, "text": "Overall appears to be a good product, didn't leak once hooked up as noted in some other reviews.  I liked the fact that they hoses are really light weight and very flexible compared to the rubber hoses i replaced, and the stainless hoses i was looking to get.  My HE Front Loading wash also fills quicker due to the larger interrior diameter.  The only thing i wasn't to impressed with is the actual fittings that hook up to the wall outlet and washer inlet, otherwise i would have given five stars.  They appear cheap and very thin metal (Kinda like a Beer Bottle Cap thickness/material) compared to the rubber hose fittings I had that were pretty stout; but the new hoses aren't leaking... I did find it a little hard to tell if they were tight enough or too tight due to this though.  Also be sure that you replace your hoses ever five years as directed... speaking from experience, it is no fun waking up to go to work finding that your lower floor has a foot of water from a washing machine hose that broke at midnight.  I also purchased the FloodStop to go along with these new hoses.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1719, "id": 290609, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 175, "len_tokens": 223, "text": "My dryer started squeeeeeeeaking a few weeks, and it was a high pitched squeak, so I assumed the bushings in the rollers need a bit of oil. I checked on a couple of websites for repair tricks, etc. and some folks commented that the rubber roller bushings cold be squeaky, others commented the tensioner was squeaky, and then I saw the whole kit was under $20.  If I'm taking my dryer apart to drop some oil into it, I'm dropping in all the parts.  So I bought this kit, and I figured I'd change out all the wear items.\n\nKit comes with 2 rubber rollers, tensioner roller and a belt.  I looked over a couple of youtube videos to see where the trick latches are located, and the rest was easy.  Once the sheet metal is off, top flipped over, lift dryer drum with belt, take out old rollers, put new ones in, with a few drops of turbine oil, new belt over drum, drum back in, sheet metal back on...good for another 25 years!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1720, "id": 211495, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 217, "len_tokens": 285, "text": "I have had this two months now.  I do laundry every week. For one person, it takes me less than an hour to wash all of my clothes and hang up to dry.  No, the \"dryer\" won't get your clothes completely dry.  It does not have a heating element.  It does spin the clothes to get most of the moisture out, so hanging them on a rack does not take long to dry.  I have not had issues with mine leaking.  I do find I splash water a little when I am transferring from the wash bin to spin bin.  My only wish list for this would to be to have it elevated a little and on wheels, as I move it over to my shower area to have access to a drain.  Otherwise, this beats going to the Laundromat and cheaper.  I bought this for my RV, as I have been staying in it for a travel assignment.\nRecommendations:  buy a lingerie bag for more delicate items, as this can tear.  Do not over load with clothing.  For larger items-jeans/towels, do only one item at a time.  For smaller items: t-shirts/shorts, I can fit 4-5 items.  I do not recommend washing sheets or blankets.  Those items I still take to the Laundromat. I hope this helps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1721, "id": 88276, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "So, this is what life comes down to when you are 50 years old:  reviewing dryer vent cleaners while sitting at your kitchen table waiting for American Idol.  This is not what I envisioned when I was 12, I can tell you that much.  You kids who think it won't happen to you?\n\nIt will.  Sorry to burst your bubble.\n\nThat said, the product works great.  Our dryer pretty much stopped working and we were thinking we needed a new one, which was seriously going to eat into my plastic surgery budget.  One last shot before a trip to the appliance store was this Gardus LintEater.  My husband, who is not the handy one of the family, had to do the work as I have a torn labrum.  (Which sounds dirtier than it is - that's part of your shoulder.)  He, the clumsiest man in the world, had absolutely no problem using this.  I warned him to read the directions first, and he actually listened and followed.  He hooked it up to the drill, and away he went.  He got a bunch of musty, wet lint that had probably been up inside the wall since 1977  - probably consisting of bell bottom material and macram.\n\nNow our dryer actually dries clothes again, and I can continue to save for my facelift. Thank you Gardus.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1722, "id": 125483, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 205, "len_tokens": 230, "text": "I have this product for more than three years, so I think I perfectly qualify to review this product!\nIn general, it is a great products. I mainly bought this product to be able to style my hairs by myself without any assistant. My freeze hair looks so smooth and stylish. It leaves my hair smooth with a few volume (It does not make them straight like flat iron, maybe because I don't have a straight hair to begin with!)\nIt has three settings: low, high, and cool. The head of the styler can rotate in 2 directions, but it does not rotate in the cool mode. It also rotates faster in the high mode which makes sense. It has a cap that I use after I finish styling to prevent heat from damaging my other stuff in the drawer (I put styler in a drawer). The only cone is that you have to work with small pieces of hair one at a time to achieve a perfect result. Thats means you have to be more patient which I am not sometimes!\nIn general I am happy with my purchase and I never had any problem with this device for the past three years.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1723, "id": 547670, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 109, "len_tokens": 223, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-RO62QR4P1NFVT\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/B1BnU3AnrGS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71Iu3%2B1ZNOS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;this is an awesome hand washer. No lie it gets the job done. I use this on my delicates and my baby usually has blowouts. lol and soils his nice outfits and white onsies. So this washer cleans and washes extra well. Way better than a washer at the laundry mat. My only thing keeping me frm giving a 5 star is that the handle kind loosens as you push in and out to wash. I just pull it up and twist it back in to tighten. No big deal tho. I still love this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1724, "id": 65581, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 162, "len_tokens": 200, "text": "What a brilliant tool to have!  Cleaning my dryer vent is a breeze with this wonderful gizmo. Plus, it involves power tools!  Dang near the most fun you could have while cleaning!  Cleans thoroughly. (Note: I disconnected my dryer from the vent and did not use the enclosed plastic protector that keeps the brush from damaging the dryer.)  My vent has two turns or bends and the rods twist and bend easily.  When using all four rods, I held the drill \"backwards,\" pointing towards me and let the rod pass behind me to keep it from whipping around and kinking.  Once I figured that out, it was truly a simple process to get my dryer vent cleaned in no time.  Insert brush into dryer vent, turn on drill, push into vent and remove from vent while using the drill, repeat, and that's it!  Oh, so easy. Now I am just waiting for the leaves to fall and plug up the downspouts....", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1725, "id": 87961, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "Anyone who thinks they don't have a problem with lint should look at these pictures.  My house is only 10 years old and this is what came out of our vent.  That doesn't even include what was cleaned out from our dryer filter and what was in just the dryer unit.  This product is very easy to use.  I definitely suggest taping each junction to make sure they don't separate in the vent.  I broke my cleaning into 4 cleanings. Fist cleaning was with just the brush and the first extension.  After ensuring that section is clean I added the second and so forth until the brush came out clean.  Given the length of the brush with all four sections, I found it easier to have another set of hands guide the brush into the vent while the other set was operating the drill.\nI noticed that when I turned the dryer back on there was some lint that was dislodged and blew out the outside vent opening.  Unfortunately in my case some lodged between the slats and is keeping the vent opening from fully closing.  I will be making a trip up my ladder once the ground dries a little so I can remove those pieces.  A little price to pay for a clean vent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1726, "id": 50463, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 190, "len_tokens": 223, "text": "I cannot speak highly enough of the Dishwasher Alert!  I buy them 5 or 6 at a time because I give them to everybody, plus I want to make sure I have an extra one on hand in case my current dishwasher dies and has to be replaced.\n\nThe one on my dishwasher has been there for about 7 years.  It sticks in place perfectly, so you don't have to worry about it coming loose.  If you have more than one person in your house, and even if it is just you and you are starting to get forgetful, you will find this to be an invaluable little tool!  When you turn on the dishwasher, just slide it to 'clean' and when you put away the clean dishes slide it back to 'dirty'.  It becomes a habit, and that is all you have to do.\n\nI just gave away my last spare so I'm here looking for several more to have in stock.  For the price it is more than a steal, and that's why I buy so many at a time because they are great to share with others.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1727, "id": 563121, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 168, "len_tokens": 206, "text": "I ordered this for my outdoor kitchen and for the most part I am pleased with the value.\n\nInstallation was a bit confusing because my unit had 2 motors and 2 6\" vents.  I called and was told that they recommended creating a Y and use one vent through the roof.  I ended up combining  the 2 6\" vents (I purchased metal pipe rather than use the coiled pipe supplied to trap less grease) into a 7\" vent through the roof.\n\nWorked great for the first week or so, but then LCD went nuts...  Called customer support and they were able to quickly confirm my purchase through Amazon and are sending a new LCD and Circuit board....  Will update the review upon replacing the parts but wanted to give kudos for the prompt easy customer service.  They even sent videos showing how to replace.\n\nIf it weren't for the initial failure this would be a 5 Star value.  It looks exactly like my neighbor's $1200 unit, different name.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1728, "id": 543987, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 228, "len_tokens": 266, "text": "The Maytag Bravos XL MCT washer is a very disappointing product. It was advertised as having as high capacity with large drum for extra large loads. It truly can hold a larger capacity; however it does not clean the clothes at all!  Even if only a few items are put in the washer, they still come out dirty.  For example, our toddler is potty training. I put her underwear in the washer and it still comes out smelling like urine.  My husband put a pair of pants in the washer with his other clothes and watched as the majority of the material on the pants were still dry even after the wash cycled for over 15 minutes.  We have had several occasions where repair people have come out (under warranty), but it ceases to fix the problem with the clothes coming out clean. One repair man explained that these washers do not wash well and we just need to cut our loads in half. We have done so and still the quality of cleanliness is unacceptable.  Also, I should note that the overall condition of our clothes has been affected. Our clothes are more faded, frayed, and dingy looking than they were before getting this washer. We are highly upset with the misleading advertisements that touted the quality and excellence of this washer! We wish we never invested.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1729, "id": 545188, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 177, "len_tokens": 221, "text": "Purchased this refrigerator from a local dealer in NW Indiana about 1-1/2 years ago.  I absolutely love the entire set-up.  I wanted a french door with a bottom freezer, and I was not particularly interested in water or ice dispensers.  Most up-scale models come with those features.  But, the beauty of this model is that the ice maker has a relatively small footprint in the upper left portion of the freezer, and the water dispenser is inside the refrigerator on the wall.  Neither item takes up a lot of space, as it does in several  other brands.  Going from a top freezer to a bottom one is more convenient for us, because we have the most used items in the fridge at eye-level.\n\nThe large drawer under the crisper drawers holds a ton of items.  I use it for lunch meat, cheese, packaged meat products, bread, buns & plenty of other items.\n\nThe obvious drawback:  it is a little tricky to reach/wipe out the bottom of the freezer, since you need to get down on the floor.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1730, "id": 192578, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 187, "len_tokens": 258, "text": "Really just a ditto of what other reviewer(s) said, fast delivery of item & fixed same problem.  I'm also tempted to order a spare to have around.  Easy to install & makes the repair as inexpensive as it can be.  Now if the TrueSTEAM didn't suck down so may kWh we'd be good to go:)\n\nUPDATE:  Though this item fixed the problem back when I wrote this review, our TrueSTEAM has self-destructed (1/2016) like they all seem to do after 3 - 6 years.  Had 2 problems in the same month:\n1) plastic reservoir itself started to seep / drip (not the seal, a temp stress / age crack at bottom)\n2) the water inlet valve let H20 continually enter.  This caused extra hot water to slowly flow down its outlet tube.\n\nSo time to remove & toss this POS TrueSTEAM into the trash.  Installing an Emerson HSP2000 since it appears an easy DIY job & uses same 120V elec + H20 feed, is made of metal & has good reviews.  [UPDATE: See also my HSP2000 \"Nice replacement for Honeywell TrueSteam self-destructing whole house humidifier.\" review]", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1731, "id": 88977, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 192, "len_tokens": 258, "text": "I wonder if they have re-designed this washer since the bad reviews?  I was ready to send it back after the first week; but we're on a well and wanted the reduced water.  So, I only run towels, sheets, small rugs--anything bulky on 'bulky loads', and it never gets unbalanced.  I frequently hang clothes outside, so I use the 'casual' setting so that they are not so wrinkled.  My clothes seem to be getting cleaner as I work with the machine and carefully choose all the settings.  I'm using Seventh Generation soap and on many loads I set it for an extra rinse.\n\nLowe's told me I could switch to an agitator-mechanical washer- if I wanted to return the Cabrio; but I'm beginning to like it.  It would be good if it came with a short \"Please read--this is a different way to wash' pamphlet.\n\nIf it eventually turns ugly; I'll comment again.  As of July 2011, though, I'm beginning to really like this washer.  I've never had anything but Whirlpool appliances; so maybe my mindset is that I should assume it's good, and I needed to learn how to use it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1732, "id": 34799, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 217, "len_tokens": 274, "text": "Some people call me a clean freak -- but I'm really not. I share my house with 4 giant, crazy dogs and 2 furry cats [not to mention the hard-working husband and teen-age son], which I think disqualifies me for the germaphobe title! My Bissell vacuum is great at getting up the pet hair and other dirt & the see-through collection system is great for visibly showing you when it's time to empty the dirt and clean the gunked-up filters [for me ... about daily]!\nBut I didn't realize until after I bought my sweepter that some of the filters -- like the inner one pictured here -- are paper, not metal or plastic.  The instructions tell you to wash the filter [yes, including this paper filter!] and let it dry -- puhleeaze, that thing takes FOREVER and a week to dry.  What am I supposed to vacuum with the next day?!?\nHence -- the beauty of this product.  I don't wash the filters every day, but when I do, I always have a clean, dry one!  This filter doesn't look exactly like my old one, and it snaps in a little differently. I like the way the old one fits better.  But hey -- scoff if you will, a clean fresh filter makes my day.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1733, "id": 73520, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 226, "len_tokens": 250, "text": "This is a good little unit for the money if all you want to do is check the temperature and humidity in your room.  I recently put in a new heating system and wanted to see if all the rooms in the house were being heated equally. I purchased two of these, and compared them to a similar but more expensive unit I bought years ago at Radio Shack. All three units gave me the identical reading in each room, so I'd have to say they were consistent, and hopefully accurate. I've had them about a month now, and both are still providing readings without a problem. I have a feeling that these were made by the same company that made Radio Shack's as the case design is practically identical. However, the quality of the units are not identical which is probably why they are half the price. The case of these two units is of a much lighter plastic and the brightness of LCD readout panel is much darker than the Radio Shack unit that was twice the price. Nonetheless, as I said in my headline, it is a good basic unit for the money. If the two meters were made better AND had a button to light up the display for better readouts in dark rooms, I would have given it a higher rating.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1734, "id": 371311, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 147, "len_tokens": 212, "text": "Date: August 26, 2015\n\nCompany: OnePurify LLC\n23110 Catalina Harbor Ct.\nKaty, TX 77494\n[...]\n\nProduct(s): OnePurify water filters and products\n\nIssue: Unauthorized use of NSF mark and claims of NSF testing and/or certification and use of NSF certified components\n\nDescription: OnePurify water filter products are being marketed as tested and/or certified by NSF International. These filters have been observed as being marketed by the following distributors: Water Filter International, Clean Air Supply, StayPureFilters and Deltafill and on these distributor websites: sears.com, jet.com, shoponepurify.com, whoisworth.com and amazon.com with the NSF mark and/or various claims of NSF testing and certification and/or containing NSF certified components. OnePurify water filter products have not been tested by NSF and are not certified by NSF International. OnePurify LLC is not authorized to use the NSF mark or make claims of NSF certification or any other service of or from NSF.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1735, "id": 166729, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 231, "len_tokens": 281, "text": "This entry-level dishwasher from Miele is a real gem.  It is so quiet that the only way to make out it's running is by taking a look at the display panel.  Cleaning quality is superior, and there are multiple settings to choose from.  The clean touch stainess steel is really what it claims to be, i.e., it does not retain fingerprints, and wiping it with a moist cloth leaves it squeaky clean.\nThe biggest selling point of Miele appears to be their reliability.  Even the dealer recommended not spending additional money to buy extended protection plan.  His point was that unless there is a manufacturing defect (which would be covered by the 1 year warranty), these machines rarely break down within the coverage period of the extended warranty.\nNote that this is a German product, and hence not as big inside as its American cousins.  I do recommend buying the model with the cutlery tray.  Not only the cutlery is cleaned very well (it has a spraying arm right below the cutlery tray), it also frees up additional space in the lower rack by not having to accomodate the cutlery basket.  Totally worth the additional $100.\nIf you are ok with having the control panel on the front (which I actually like better than the controls being on the top of the door), you can't really go wrong with this dishwasher.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1736, "id": 211534, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 250, "len_tokens": 279, "text": "I received this product yesterday and after reading instructions and watching a youtube video I felt I knew well how this operates. Giving it a test run today and it doesn't work. The few socks I used for a test run just sat in soapy water because the agitator will not move. It is not stuck because I can easily move it by hand. Very disappointing. Called the customer service and can hardly understand the person on the other end of the line. I was finally able to submit an e-mail giving details of my order number etc that was requested. Very disappointing due to the fact that we are leaving in less than two weeks to full time RV ( which is why I purchased this product) so I don't really have time to sit around waiting on customer service. I will update when I get some response but just saying....this product did not work!\n\nEditing to say that the sevice people contacted me quickly and explained that the belt had likely come off. They included pictures to show how to reattach it. My husband came in about that time, looked at the pictures and had no problem putting the belt back on. It then worked exactly as it was supposed to. I ran a small wash and it did great! I will add to this after using the product for a period of time. Just want to say the service folk for this product were very quick to respond.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1737, "id": 187790, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 231, "len_tokens": 272, "text": "I have a GE Monogram dishwasher that is not quite 4 years old and the wheels were constantly falling off. The design was flawed to begin with, hardly grasping, and the plastic axles seemed to have dried up and shrunk, barely there and easily cracked.  I ordered these, put them on and all works great. I took the old ones off the wheels by squeezing the front part of the old axle together at front of the old wheel with a large tweezer (forceps) to get it to slip out of the wheel. One old axle cracked as I tugged the first time until I figured out how to squeeze it together...but the old ones were really dried out and breaking. The old wheels still are fine, so I put in the new axles, slipping the wheel over the front of the axle, carefully balancing both sides of the wheel and pushing hard enough until it popped in. That was the hardest part...just getting it onto the wheel. Then I pushed it onto the lower rack until it popped on which was easier. All eight wheels took just a few minutes to do.  I am so happy I can roll out the bottom rack without losing wheels now. They all stay on, even when fully loaded, thank goodness. It is like new...but better with this new design axle. I am happy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1738, "id": 102061, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 199, "len_tokens": 237, "text": "I figured these had the best reviews and with Amazon no hassle return for failure to complete the task why not.  In short, installed on washer and dryer, both front loading.  Washer is like a freight train in high spin, yes it is level, but it is on the second floor and house was built to where the washer sits in floor attached emergency drain pan (made for washers).  So making floor stiffer is not possible unless I lift the pan... etc.. nightmare.  So after 8 years of hearing things rattle on the walls I decided to go ahead and give this a go.  Why did I wait???  It took around 30 minutes with a single person and cleaning under the washer and dryer while they were tilted.  I then placed the washer on a high speed heavy duty cycle with a full load, (Samsung front loader if it matters).  I can feel the washer moving in spin, but vibration as advertised is almost non-existent when transferring this motion to the floor.  Sometimes the simplest things shock you as a resolve, it couldn't be that simple... oh yes it could.  Hopefully it works for others as well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1739, "id": 64013, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 190, "len_tokens": 234, "text": "Maybe I got a bad one, but this thing leaks like a sieve.  I installed it on an existing roof, and I've installed similar vents before.  The roof pitch is 6 in 12, so fairly steep.  After installing I waited a day and then soaked the area using a hose.  Water poured into the inside of the duct.  This means that the flashing was good and I had properly flashed it to keep water from getting under the flange and around the duct hole.  The problem is that the uphill seam on this are not soldered or sealed in any way.  Water seeped in through the bottom seam along the uphill side, into a small gutter around the 6 inch vent, and then down the vent hole.  I could not believe how poorly it was designed/manufactured.  I didn't want to remove roofing and pull the nails, so I sealed the uphill seam with silicon and put a piece of aluminum flashing along the seam to protect the silicon.  DO NOT BUY THIS.  It isn't worth the hassle.  There are plenty of other vents on the market that have sealed seams.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1740, "id": 67054, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 159, "len_tokens": 246, "text": "I ordered this little ice maker and eagerly awaited it's arrival.  Was so excited when it came.  Removed it from box, read instructions.  Required 2 hours of sitting open on the counter before attempting to produce ice.  After two hours, filled it with water, plugged it in and waited. And waited. And waited.  Nothing happened. Re-read the directions, emptied the unit and refilled the unit and plugged it back in and waited. And waited. And waited. Still no ice.  Did not even make a sound.  I have requested an exchange for this one because I still really want it. I read all the other reviews before I ordered and it seemed like it was hit or miss if you actually got one that worked.  I guess I got a miss.  Hopefully the next one will be a hit.  If not, I'll just get a refund and try one of the other brands.<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Emerson-Portable-Ice-Maker/dp/B0014DZ2YG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Emerson Portable Ice Maker</a>", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1741, "id": 536649, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 228, "len_tokens": 292, "text": "I mostly love not having to go to the Laundromat any longer!  I wish I had gotten a larger size - it won't dry a queen-size quilt well.  I have a clothesline on my storm porch, so I hang it up to dry, then just fluff it. As for heavy items like jeans & towels it takes about 1.5 hours, unless I hang it up first which I usually do.  Any dryer that runs on 120V will most likely be the same.\nI would also prefer it if the timer and heat selector was different - the control has 200 minutes, 200 - 120 is hot, 120 - 20 is warm, 20 - 0 is air. I just set a time for 30-minutes and turn it back to 200 - I just use the hot setting because hot, isn't that HOT\nIt was easy to hoist up the stairs by myself - I just slid it up on its side.  (I am a 55yo woman)  I just had to take it outta the box and it was pretty much ready to go.\nOh, and as mentioned, the filter is a bit of a pain.  However, this was one of the more inexpensive dryers and am very happy with the results considering - as I said, I am so happy I don't have to go to the Laundromat!  :-)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1742, "id": 444487, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 181, "len_tokens": 210, "text": "This filter fit my Samsung french door refrigerator perfectly, and was actually better than the filter it replaced. I bought my refrigerator used, and it came with a filter already in place, which I continued to use until the red light came on, indicating it was time to change it. When I installed this one, I noticed that the filter in the refrigerator as I bought it was not an OEM Samsung filter, but instead, was a compatible replacement model that wasn't NSF certified for all the contaminants that this filter is certified for. Thus, this replacement was actually an upgrade to the filter I'd been using, and the water tastes better, there are no leaks, and the fit was perfect -- this model even had two o-rings on the end, while the \"original\" one had only one. I ran about a couple of gallons of water through it, to ensure that no carbon sediment would be in the water or ice, but the water was only cloudy for the first two quarts, and after that, ran completely clear. Highly recommended.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1743, "id": 222421, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 256, "len_tokens": 283, "text": "I live in a small apartment in Chicago with no washing machine. I got this delivered to my house, which can be hard when living in the city since the deliver driver always get confused with big packages. First I was going to hook it up to the bathroom sink but it did not have any threads. So I took the little metal thing and screwed it on the kitchen sink. I then figured out that you can quick connect it to the sink (sort of like an air compresser hose) When I first attached it to the sink and it was leaking from the facet. All I had to do was take out one of the little washers inside the hose (there are like 3 in there, I guess you can pick which one works best for you) and it worked great, no plumping tape or anything required. I was baffled by the gray plastic square piece but read on amazon you just screw it to the bottom of the machine with the one screw that is provided. This machine rocks, the size is big enough to wash my white Ikea blanket and more that enough to wash all my clothes. Highly recommended. If you have a sink with only one facet( like most people) just connect it to the cold intake. You can then decide how hot or cold you want the water with your sink handle instead of the washer because water only will be coming into the \"cold\" inlet of the washer", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1744, "id": 62625, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 200, "len_tokens": 248, "text": "Howdy!\n\nI am in the process of measuring the energy usage of every appliance and item in my home.  This GE freezer, which is about a year or so old, is estimated by the company to use 240 kWh per year.  I measured the kWh of mine for 39h 13m and it used 1.36 kWh which calculates to 0.832 kWh per day.  At that rate this freezer uses 304 kWh per year in my home which is kept at 80 degrees during the day (its Texas so 80 is cold) which is more than the company estimates.  The cost for electricity here is $0.0942/kWh so this fridge uses about $29 per year in electricity.\n\nKeep in mind that I didn't really measure it long enough to get a true value and this is only an estimate.  We are going to be replacing energy hogging appliances so the shorter measurement time isn't really an issue.  Once I identify the true energy users in my home I will then measure their usage for a longer duration to get a more accurate estimate.\n\nThe freezer works well by the way.  1 star off for using slightly more energy than the energy profile states.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1745, "id": 322934, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 173, "len_tokens": 206, "text": "We decided to try this filter because it filters out more then the Samsung, even though many reviews said it leaks. Sure enough when we got it and installed it, it started leaking. I decided to wiggle it around and give it another chance. After about 2-3 days of cleaning the water from the lower tray it stopped leaking. We thought: \"Great, we're keeping it\". In the next week it worked pretty well, but we noticed that the flow was slower then Samsung original filter. We figured this was due to more stuff being filtered out. However, in another few days the water started coming out extremely slow. Took around 2-3 minutes to fill a glass. It would stop running half way too. You would need to press water release again for it to restart flowing. It was getting ridiculous so had to order the original Samsung filter. That works great, and no leaks. Don't buy this filter until they rework it or it won't work with your fridge and drive you crazy.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1746, "id": 66757, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 221, "len_tokens": 293, "text": "I was able to unclog a 35 years old smelly and moldy 4 in wide going into 3 in wide dryer exhaust snaky 20 feet long conduit. It was taking hours to dry the clothing instead of minutes before , now it is back to normal. I started by unplugging my dryer and aspirating with a shopvac towards the dryer (adaptor provided) while I was inserting the brush with screwable rods at the tip of a DeWalt handheld drill from the outside of my house: no lint in the  shop vac reservoir. Then I repeated the roto-brush operation in parallel to the shop vac aspirator still by the dryer using the bypass opening adaptor provided: BINGO I got 1 gallon of moldy lint. Photos attached with my 12 in foot for size comparison. I tried to outsmart the directions provided in the booklet and roto-brush long lengths of rods without screwing/unscrewing them one after another. Do not do that; I regretted it; the rods will tangle on each other/warp and get somewhat out of shape, although not irreversibly. Besides it is dangerous to you too. Rods still usable despite my temerity. Am probably ok dryer exhaust wise for another 35 years. Preventive vac-roto-brushing is probably better than waiting for problems. Will not have to redesign the 20 feet exhaust (sealed) ceiling path.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1747, "id": 61068, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 193, "len_tokens": 248, "text": "Don't waste your money.  I am on my third one, and I have to keep on returning them.  Upper shelve gets no colder than 45, and the lower shelve no colder that 40.  This is with nothing in them and an ambient room temp. of 64-68, depending on the time of day.  Refrigerators are supposed to be capable of 33-40. This unit's compressor barely ever runs, and the door seals are terrible.  I will be taking this third one back and going elsewhere.  Yes, it was very inexpensive(150.00 at Sams Club,  but you would expect it to at least cool for a year or two.  I can't imaging trying to cool beverages in this, let alone on a warm day.  I would consider this more of a wine cooler, because in the summer I imagine it wouldn't get any colder than 50, but I am quite sure it would stop working by then.  I called their customer service, and the rep was as helpful as dealing with a two year old.  I am not concerned about any bad grammar in this review, as it is not worth another second writing about this.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1748, "id": 545559, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 217, "len_tokens": 255, "text": "I'm horrible. I got these thinking the ones (I replaced) in my dryer had worn down (again). I was wrong - it was actually the rear bearing sleeve that was squealing - but since I had these on hand, I used them (one). But, before I did that, I did try these in their intended locations and they fit okay and seemed to be just as slick as my OEM ones.\n\nTo solve my problem (rear bearing sleeve) I cut about a half inch off, of one of these - basically a perfect square with the hole in the center of it - and got a lighter to soften it a little so I could use the shaft of a small screwdriver to roll it into a cylinder. I sawed the disintegrated sleeve part of the old bearing sleeve off flush with its face, replaced it on the shaft, and just shoved the drum until it finally slid into place. Zero play, no resistance, and we get to have clothes for the rest of the week while I wait for a real sleeve (just kidding, I have three more of these to use when this fails).\n\nI feel like this kind of plastilube/longer-lasting pseudogrease should be used for more applications. It's very versatile stuff.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1749, "id": 275133, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 190, "len_tokens": 221, "text": "Worked for my frigidaire affinity top load washer that the drain pump went out on after only having it for 2.5 years. My washer was in storage for 8 months so the serviceman said that's probably what led to its failure. But I had been smelling a burning smell & when the load finished the wash bin was completely full. It turns out that my drain pump was overworking trying to pump the water out so that's what the burning smell was. Anyway, it was either going to be a 300 repair, or 400 for a new washer, or ordering the part and repairing it myself. Of course I wanted to repair it myself since it's the cheapest option. There's a video on YouTube on how to do it. Try your best to empty the wash bin first and Make sure you have a bucket to catch the water that may be left in the tub and in the hose because it will go everywhere and it's a lot of water. It took me about an hour to replace it! Washer is goods as new now. I hope it lasts!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1750, "id": 466017, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 202, "len_tokens": 233, "text": "We converted a bedroom on the first floor of my home into a large laundry room.  This room was directly over my son's room in the basement and I was concerned about the noise of the washing machine on the tile floor.  I purchased these before the room was completed in hopes of keeping the machine quiet.  Unfortunately I didn't consider the fact that I have a top loading machine with a lid that opens toward the back.  The added height of the silent feet did not allow my washer lid to open fully.  I sanded down the bottom of the cabinets, but still pinched my fingers opening the lid.  Also the silent feet actually increased the noise during the spin cycle because the washer would bang into the dryer sitting next to it.  Luckily when I removed the silent feet which left black marks on the floor, I had no problems.  The washer then had lid and finger clearance, my machines never move (they don't walk like some front loaders) and they no longer bang into one another unless there is a really unbalanced load.  If you have a front loader that tends to move, these may work perfectly for you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1751, "id": 178259, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 199, "len_tokens": 254, "text": "This is a lousy design, poorly made, and essential to keep your piece-of-crap Whirlpool/KitchenAid dishwasher running. Somewhat hard to install, you get better with the practice you will almost certainly get since your dishwasher is, as mentioned, rubbish. The chopper assembly is supposed to prevent large bits of food from clogging the pump (a problem, oddly, never encountered in our 30 year old model.) In my experience this device lasts around one year, then becomes a \"hey, let's use these dull blades to shove food firmly into the screen so it can be totally clogged\" device.\n\nHowever, if you want to use the top rack of your dishwasher, this is the part you have to replace. You can do it yourself using on-line instructions available in a few different places. It's not that easy but it's not impossible either and avoids a $300 service call (that's $100 for the first hour and $200 to show up. Maybe your service people are cheaper. I sure hope so.)\n\n(Why four stars? Because you can buy it here for a fraction of the price of having a repairman.)\n\nUPDATE: Its now lasted nearly a year. Thats far better than the original one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1752, "id": 70691, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 182, "len_tokens": 227, "text": "Your product is( falsely) advertised as being \"easy to use.\"  Is this some kind of a sick joke?  The fact that the calibration takes all day between having to have to get the distilled water fill a container  to 250 mL and properly heated to 25C so as to initiate a calibration, does not sound like easy to use to me,  does it to you?\n\nIn addition, after all that - it's still not calibrating nor is it working properly.  Long story short- I need to talk to a technician over the phone so as to resolve this but your company offers no customer support phone number-just emails which take weeks to resolve any issue\n\n I'm not going  to go back and forth with emails cause I'm already two weeks into this and still nowhere.\n\nShame on you for misrepresenting your product.\n\n  I actually spoke to an Amazon representative actually I spoke to three and they can't believe either that you would advertise this as being \"easy-to-use.\"\n\nps.  Your instructions are written so small it's barely legible in addition you have typos.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1753, "id": 322201, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 178, "len_tokens": 205, "text": "The Kenmore-branded version of this filter was out of stock at my local Sears, so I decided to see what else was out there. I stumbled across this one, which matched the description and size of the Kenmore brand at a lower cost. This and the Kenmore filters look identical and seem to perform the same in terms of moisture output. I have no way of verifying if either brand actually has any type of antimicrobial coating as they claim. Neither has any type of plastic or metal reinforcement - they are both nothing but \"expanded paper\" that will tear easily if handled while wet. The one that originally came with my humidifier seemed to be much more durable than any of the replacements - including the Kenmore brand. So, as far as I can tell, this one appears to be the same as the Kenmore filter, but a bit less expensive. I have a little more confidence in the Kenmore brand, so I'll probably pay a bit more and get them locally from Sears when I can.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1754, "id": 181616, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 243, "len_tokens": 287, "text": "DO NOT BUY.\nI bought this Aug 2015 based on many reviews and really regret it. The central (main) burner has stopped working.\nIt became very stiff to operate (the actual shaft that controls gas flow) and the control knob broke.\nThe warranty is for only one year so it is out of warranty - by 6 weeks.\nI'm beyond disappointed that an appliance that costs as much as it does did not last much past a year - in fact 6 weeks past the warranty expiration!\nThe 'service' call will be expensive just to get someone out ($100).  Parts and labor are extra.\nI'll be communicating this to others.\n\nUPDATE: after multiple calls and escalations (online, written, multiple phone calls) I finally made an appointment for a service call as GE was not willing to repair it 'out of warranty' under any circumstances. Technician came and diagnosed one burner control shaft as missing a component and broken and several other knobs as broken. The broken knob left fragments in the hole that prevented the shaft turning properly. He did not charge for ordering a new set of knobs nor the missing component. They arrived a couple of days later. He did not charge for the service appointment.  I'm happy with the service but still feel it was not needed. I also suspect that I'll be needing knobs multiple times over the lifetime of this cook-top. ADDING one star for decent service.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1755, "id": 463497, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 181, "len_tokens": 208, "text": "Super happy with my purchase! I did a LOT of research prior to purchasing this because I wanted something super powerful, but also nice looking and easy to clean. I've had it for about 9 months now and use it almost daily since I'm an avid cook. I've always lived somewhere with a professional stove hood until my house that I bought last year, so one of my first priorities was replacing the junky built-in microwave exhaust fan with a heavy duty one. I ended up having an electrician install it because this stove hood has an electrical whip and not a regular plug, so that had to be connected to the outlet that was in place for the microwave...easy for an electrician but not something I wanted to tackle.\n\nFYI when I first tried turning the blower on, the blue light came on but the motor wasn't running. Turns out one of the connections inside had come loose, during shipping most likely so the electrician had to reconnect it. Just a tip in case anyone else has the same issue.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1756, "id": 61047, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 169, "len_tokens": 212, "text": "Almost bought this at Sam's, but used my cell phone to check reviews and decided against it.  I saw it later online from Wal****.com as a refurb at a price point i couldn't refuse, so i dove in.  After initial setup(setup is a 2 day process when done correctly), the unit achieved a temp of 42F degrees.  I bought a 80mm PC tower fan and modded it and placed it on the top shelf near the cooling plate facing down and now it consistently achieves temps around freezing(YMMV). I've read lots of reviews and realize I may have gotten lucky with my unit, but with an ambient room temperature of of 70 degrees the unit was registering 29 degrees maxed out(31 degrees at 80); I've actually had to dial it down a bit.  Given the history of these units, I would definitely recommend a replacement plan if reasonably priced.\n\n  Hope this review helps someone with their decision. I'll try to post pics...\n\nthx,\n\nBurrill", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1757, "id": 116444, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 183, "len_tokens": 230, "text": "This is a great machine.  It is big, which is a real plus doing laundry for a big family.  It has the cycles I need, runs very quietly, and cleans well.  The 1400 rpm spin cycle is pretty impressive.  It even plays pleasant little songs when I turn it off and on.  (Pleasant being in the ear of the hearer, these can be turned off very easily if you want!)  It's currently CR's top rated machine, which ought to count for something.  I especially like the feature that tosses a load intermittently in fresh air overnight if I start a load before going to bed.  As an upgrade from a long-serving and recently deceased traditional top-loader, this thing is actually a lot of fun.  I feel just a little like the helmsman on the Enterprise laying in a course when I operate it (um, yeah, I guess I just admitted that . . .).  Let me add to the positive voices -- this has been a great machine.  I did buy the extended warranty, just in case, but no issues so far!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1758, "id": 509474, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 229, "len_tokens": 294, "text": "We bought a Danby ice maker (model DIM2500WDB) at Nebraska Furniture for around $150.  I hated to buy one without reading some reviews but hubby insisted, it was first one wed run across.  It's big, half the size of a large microwave.  Its noisy when it's making ice, hums and beeps a lot.  The operation instructions leave a lot to guess work, but its fairly simple.  It has 3 sizes of ice but theres not a lot of difference in sizes.  The ice is a bit on the soft side which I like, it gets crunchy.  It takes about an hour to get a basketful of ice, but you can scoop out what you need as it makes.  The unit does not have any kind of refrigeration/freezer to keep ice from melting, so unused ice in the basket gradually melts if you don't use it, and reuses the water to make more ice.  That seems to work well.  In spite of this, the ice lasts quite a while in the basket.  I like the machine and its worked well.  My main complaint is the noise.  But once it has a basketful it will beep 8 times and cease operation until you take out the ice, add more water, or it has enough melted water to make more.  On the whole, Ive enjoyed it.  It's worked well for several months.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1759, "id": 152600, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 208, "len_tokens": 258, "text": "I have a Duet WGD9550WW2 dryer (which is one of the models this kit applies to). It's a bit confusing trying to ascertain actual OEM kits from everything else (Whirlpool certified replacement, for example). All of the parts in this kit did fit - sort of. The drum rollers fit on their spindles, but they wobbled just enough to be quite noisy. I noticed this simply by spinning them as I was installing them (the \"old\" rollers made no noise at all when I spun them). So, after the fun of dismantling my dryer and replacing all of the kit parts, I defeated the screeching noise (which was likely the tensioner pulley), but added a new drum roller noise. The new noise is certainly less obnoxious than the screeching, but I can't live with it either. So I ordered a genuine OEM kit (cost $5 more than this kit) with genuine OEM drum rollers (from another vendor, as I couldn't tell for certain on Amazon who was actual OEM). Now I can look forward to more quality time with my dryer as I dismantle it again to install the OEM rollers. Bright side: I can legitimately add Whirlpool Duet dryer dismantling to my resume.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1760, "id": 88076, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "So, this is what life comes down to when you are 50 years old:  reviewing dryer vent cleaners while sitting at your kitchen table waiting for American Idol.  This is not what I envisioned when I was 12, I can tell you that much.  You kids who think it won't happen to you?\n\nIt will.  Sorry to burst your bubble.\n\nThat said, the product works great.  Our dryer pretty much stopped working and we were thinking we needed a new one, which was seriously going to eat into my plastic surgery budget.  One last shot before a trip to the appliance store was this Gardus LintEater.  My husband, who is not the handy one of the family, had to do the work as I have a torn labrum.  (Which sounds dirtier than it is - that's part of your shoulder.)  He, the clumsiest man in the world, had absolutely no problem using this.  I warned him to read the directions first, and he actually listened and followed.  He hooked it up to the drill, and away he went.  He got a bunch of musty, wet lint that had probably been up inside the wall since 1977  - probably consisting of bell bottom material and macram.\n\nNow our dryer actually dries clothes again, and I can continue to save for my facelift. Thank you Gardus.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1761, "id": 333843, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 213, "len_tokens": 247, "text": "I was at first confused by the filter when I opened it. It didn't look like my other filter, no the picture on the website. I thought I had received the wrong product. See picture of a brand new filter that I currently use, and the one I received. It was missing what looks like a cap that is supposed to go on the top of the filter. However, when I examined the tops of the 2 filters, the connecting piece was the same shape and design. So this filter was just designed a little differently, but still fits. I've confirmed that it still fits in my fridge. It's an easy twist and replace filter, so the swap went easy and quickly. I just had to run water into this and dispose of the first batch of water from the line. Water tastes the same (guess it doesn't really matter since I have a reverse osmosis that goes prior to this filter, so I'm getting 2x the filter action) and there is no smell in the water. My fridge filter isn't working as hard since it is getting the cleaned up water prior to getting to this filter, but I still change it regularly to ensure my family gets the cleanest water possible.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1762, "id": 75749, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 245, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "The out-of-the-box accuracy of this unit was very poor. When placed side by side on an indoor table, with a calibrated temperature probe in between, the units consistently showed a 2 degree F difference, with one or the other sometimes matching the high-accuracy device. The humidity measurements were even more off, by 12-20 percentage points at all times. I did not expect laboratory-grade calibration, but from a company with \"accuracy\" in the name and the many rave reviews of performance, I did expect at least an initial matching calibration - dead on with the easy temperature measurement, perhaps 5 percent variance with the trickier humidity.\n\nI even opened the units up to see if there was any kind of field or assembly-line calibration I could adjust, but it looks as if these are calibrated at the time of assembly and not adjustable short of some elaborate bench work.\n\nI had intended to use this pair in a giant terrarium, to monitor temp/humidity at opposite corners, but the lack of even matching performance and questionable overall accuracy makes the unit useless for such purpose. I guess if people simply put one unit on the wall and one outside on a tree, they'll never notice that there's considerable calibration difference between the units, and instead rave about how well it works. If approximate temp and humidity are all you want and an app for your smartphone is too inconvenient, I guess this unit will work for you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1763, "id": 42553, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 205, "len_tokens": 226, "text": "So my old venlline overhead range fan motor in my mobile home went out and I decided Id replace the whole thing because get this . The old 1960 fan motor was 50.00! This whole brand new range was 50.00! Why replace just the motor in my old one and end up not being the motor or something else messing up on it shortly after . Why not just get a brand spanking new one for the same price of the old motor . Come on now . And I installed it myself!! I Honestly think installing this new unit was a lot easier than replacing that old fan motor would have been. This product saved me a ton of money . Its way better than that old one too. Win win win ! You cant loose with this thing . My vent size was a bit off but I just took some cardboard and cut it like a gasket to keep the vacuum right. Wiring was easy just make sure to flip the correct circuit breakers off. Only hard part about it was trying to start the screws and hold it up at the same time . Get someone to help you with that part.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1764, "id": 48593, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 225, "len_tokens": 293, "text": "We did not receive the product advertised.\n\nThe advertisement states you will receive a \"Frigidaire PureSourcePlus Ice & Water Filter (WFCB, 46-9906)\". The product did not come in a Frigidaire PureSourcePlus package...just plastic wrap. I installed the filter and the water came out jet black. I ordered two of them so I tried the second filter, and the water was jet black again. This has never happened with Frigidaire filter.\n\nI checked the invoice and it said they are Frigidair WFCB/RC-200 \"Compatible\" Replacement Regrigeragor Water Filters. If the company is selling a \"compatible\" filter, and not the manufacturer's filter why does the Amazon site describes and has a picture of the Frigidaire filter?\n\nI e-mailed the company and they replied \"Thank you for your order and email. From your description your new filters need to be flushed.\"\n\nI ended up spending a lot more money and bought a Frigidaire filter but the water now does not taste the same.\n\nThis has been my worst online purchase experiences with Amazon.\n\nIn addition, while we did not request a refund the company subsequently wrote back and stated that they would credit our account since we were not happy with the purchase.  While the company's customer service department was prompt and responsive, the Amazon website description should reflect the item being purchased in order to avoid confusion.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1765, "id": 331946, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 161, "len_tokens": 202, "text": "Needed to replace the solenoid on my refrigerator's ice maker water line.  This is actually a high quality part that was priced at half of what I had seen on the appliance part sites.  The original solenoid that came with refrigerator was  getting older and couldn't be sure it wasn't leaking water slowly into the icetray.  Was told the life expectancy of these part are 8-10 years.  The newer solenoids require that you make a clean cut on the plastic water lines and insert directly into the holes 3/4\".  Two different size holes so you can't mistakenly switch them.  This newer part is oriented a bit different inside the fridge but it still works fine.  Also beware the older solenoid mounting bracket was stubbornly attached to the mounting bracket that holds the water inlet where the house water line connects.  Easiest way I found to separate the two was drill out the hole in the metal plate where they are joined.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1766, "id": 455515, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 207, "len_tokens": 276, "text": "I've been through several different ice makers and most of the other ones that cost ~$200 (i.e. Kitchenaid, Edgestar, Haier, etc.) produce ice that is barely frozen.  Think slush.  What this means in practice is that if you fill a glass to the brim with ice from those cheaper models and pour in tap water, the ice will be completely melted in about 10-15 minutes.  In other words, unless you are drinking water or intending to water down your beverage, these ice cubes don't do the job adequately.  Enter the Waring Pro WIM30.  The reason they advertise \"Clear-Ice\" is because the ice that comes out of this product is actually solid ice.  This ice lasts much longer than the slushy ice, about as long as ice cubes you would make in a tray in your freezer.  (slighly smaller cubes and more surface area on each cube since they've got a hole going through them, so not quite as long)  The price on this unit is about twice that of the cheaper models, so it's a steep price.  However, because of the watered-down (alcoholic) beverages I managed to produce with the cheaper ice makers, those products were not actually usable for me, so their cheaper price is irrelevent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1767, "id": 492528, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 194, "len_tokens": 250, "text": "Ordered PIC2 Nuwave Cooktop, along with cookware set, cast iron BBQ grill, griddle & upgraded to the larger cooktop. They also said a bunch of \"freebies\" such as small NuWave cooker, pan,steamer, fondue set. Received them all. The cooktop is quite heavy just by itself & the cookware is so heavy, it is impossible for me, with arthritis in my hands to lift, even with nothing in them. Tried the medium sauce pan & when lifting it off cooktop, liquid spilled because it was so heavy, couldn't keep it from tipping. Burned hand. No where on advertisement on web site did it say you couldn't use your existing cookware on cooktop. I have Cooks Essentials non-stick cookware & it won't work - nothing but cast iron cookware will work with this. Called Customer Serv. to return & all of a sudden most of the things they said were free weren't & said I had to pay return shipping which was $96.81 to return!!! I'm still waiting for my credit card to be reimbursed for the returns. What a rip off - to anyone - don't order this, you will be very disappointed!.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1768, "id": 457541, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 169, "len_tokens": 200, "text": "I completely regret buying this gas range.  The vent is too strong & pulls in the flames.  I've had them send someone out 3 times only to be told that it's because they have a 6\" duct connected to our 4\" duct, that we need to go under our deck (which means taking the deck apart) to put a screw in the vent flap to stop it from opening so much???? REALLY!!!\nThen I find a grease stain running down the inside of the oven door.  Had to call them back to replace the door but they only sent parts to replace the windows.  The service dept. does respond to problems immediately BUT the problem I have is for the price I paid I should not have any problems but I do, I have a stove with a fan that I cannot use.  I wish we had just changed the venting & gone with a fan over the range.  I'm totally disgusted!!!  Too much money - too many problems!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1769, "id": 5162, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 232, "len_tokens": 262, "text": "Okay, Here it is, i know sometimes you get dodgy merchandise - that happens once in a while. But if you get the majority of review pretty positive and a few that bad - its a good bet to say that its generally a good product.\n\nThankfully for me I've had a good experience. Its not going to solve all your problems but its handy, small, is accurate - tells the moisture level and also the temp very accurate - I know as i compare it with my thermostat. It takes a few minutes to adjust if you move it but that is just natural. it worked straight out of the box, and I'm guessing will probably not have to replace the batter for a good few years easy.\n\nYou know straight of the bat when you get a good product and I'm guessing this thing will last for many years to come. Vicks is a good brand. That's why I went with them, since i was a child I use to use their vicks rub when I got a cold or sore muscle or to relieve sinus and cold congestion. So it was just a natural choice and I\"m glad i went with it.\n\nits a good product, and if you like something that works, is easy and accurate that will last a long time, you will like this one too.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1770, "id": 41611, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 213, "len_tokens": 238, "text": "I've had this dishwasher for about a month now and so far so good. Other reviews were helpful in pointing out that the powder detergent works best and to be sure to press the pressure release (red button) before disconnecting the hoses. I have found that although some water is supposed to stay in the unit, some still remains in the hoses after the cycle is complete. I usually just start a new cycle and then stop it after it pumps the remaining water out. That seems to do the trick.\n\nAs my cabinets are very low, I ended up putting the dishwasher on a rolling cart and easily connecting the hose to the sink for each use. I read that some people had trouble with the sink attachment breaking after several uses, so I just keep it screwed on and then just snap the hose in place when needed.\n\nAll of my dishes fit into the washer, for some of the larger ones, I just had to try a few times to face them in different directions. For my wife and I, we fit 1-2 days of our dishes in with no problem. I am planning to stick something on the side of the washer to hold the hoses/cord in place though.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1771, "id": 87436, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 286, "text": "So, this is what life comes down to when you are 50 years old:  reviewing dryer vent cleaners while sitting at your kitchen table waiting for American Idol.  This is not what I envisioned when I was 12, I can tell you that much.  You kids who think it won't happen to you?\n\nIt will.  Sorry to burst your bubble.\n\nThat said, the product works great.  Our dryer pretty much stopped working and we were thinking we needed a new one, which was seriously going to eat into my plastic surgery budget.  One last shot before a trip to the appliance store was this Gardus LintEater.  My husband, who is not the handy one of the family, had to do the work as I have a torn labrum.  (Which sounds dirtier than it is - that's part of your shoulder.)  He, the clumsiest man in the world, had absolutely no problem using this.  I warned him to read the directions first, and he actually listened and followed.  He hooked it up to the drill, and away he went.  He got a bunch of musty, wet lint that had probably been up inside the wall since 1977  - probably consisting of bell bottom material and macram.\n\nNow our dryer actually dries clothes again, and I can continue to save for my facelift. Thank you Gardus.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1772, "id": 196530, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 162, "len_tokens": 205, "text": "Brand name threw me at first.  PROTECH is what I received.  Expected Rheem branding since that is how the product is listed.\nWhen I first looked at the element it didn't appear to include the o-ring seal.  Now what do I do?\nPulled the element out of the packaging which only covers the connector end of the element.  Element itself is not protected/covered.\nLooked a little closer and found the o-ring seal was there.  It just blended in to the black plastic.  It was on the opposite side from where you place it for mounting.\nSo look closely before you worry you didn't receive the o-ring seal.  (And make sure to move it to the correct mounting location too.)\nFor you first time installers that have never removed an old element, make sure to have access to the 1 1/2\" socket and an impact wrench to make the removal a breeze.  Any other option to remove may prove too frustrating and/or painful.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1773, "id": 565502, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 204, "len_tokens": 241, "text": "I didn't give it five stars simply because it takes forever to calibrate (updated to five later), you either hold the button down and let it add value slowly, or you press it as fast as you can. (because values only adjust up- then starts over) also it has no option to turn off the beeping when you press buttons. it works really well. had to go through a learning curve to figure it out due to my error in understanding some value fundamentals about barometric pressure.\nupdate, six months or so later: also this thing is made is Asia somewhere, most likely china. so the instructions are hodge-podge just an FYI. I use this for extreme range shooting since I am too cheap for a kestrel. that means I beat this thing up. It gets tossed around, dropped, thrown, and it has yet to fail me. I am still on the same battery it came with, and it still procures very accurate readings as far as I am concerned. if you are looking for something that reads absolute pressure and ambient temperature accurately and dynamically for shooting purposes- this thing is a fantastic option. updated to five stars for its value and durability.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1774, "id": 337975, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 198, "len_tokens": 238, "text": "We just ordered this from a local Home Improvement store.  With a sale price and 10% off coupon the price was considerably lower than on Amazon. I am basing this review off our prior LG washer a WM2277 model that we bought in 2004.  We have been very happy with the one we had and had no hesitation getting this one.  We run a massage business and would do 3-6 loads a day in this, throwing in 6-8 twin sheets each time plus our other laundry.  I would say we gave this machine a good 40 years of normal use.  It needed a few repairs which I did myself, the drain pump and gasket were replaced late last year.  The bearings finally gave out and I tried to replace but ran into some issues disassembling it and decided it was not worth the extra work.  Considering the use it got I was really impressed with how it held up.  Also by doing my own repairs and watching videos on these, I saw that the mechanics were pretty much that same and differences between models are pretty much cosmetic.  Will update if we run into problems down the road.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1775, "id": 404949, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 245, "len_tokens": 273, "text": "I was really surprised by how much I like this. I'd been toying with the idea of purchasing a portable ice maker for several months and finally bit the bullet. I had looked at more expensive units but decided on this model because it was cheaper and I wasn't sure if we would even like using one. I was pleasantly surprised!\nThe ice tastes good and is a reasonable size. It's really easy to clean and use. The indicators lights tell you everything you need to know as you're making ice.\nWe are a 2 person household, but we use more ice than the average person. The capacity of this machine is pretty good- we set it up in the morning and seem to have plenty of ice throughout the day. The basket holds a good amount of ice before you need to empty it. We have a bin in our freezer that we move the ice to in order to keep it cold. The only downside is that once the ice is moved to the freezer, it tends to all stick together because it's still so wet. I think that's just because of the way that the ice is made- by sticking the freezer rods into a pool of water and then the ice forms around the rods within the water- so the ice is pretty wet. We just use a butter knife to break up the block of ice and it's no problem.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1776, "id": 66544, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 221, "len_tokens": 263, "text": "The LintEater worked like a charm. I thought I had about 20 feet of dryer duct to clean so I opted not to purchase the extension kit. I figured I'd use it from both sides so the 12 feet that comes with the kit should suffice.\n\nI didn't purchase the optional lint bag but found a cheap alternative. I duct taped a garbage bag to the side of the house around the end of the dryer duct but leaving plenty of opening for air to escape from the bag once I turned on the dryer. I then cut a slit in the bag to get the LintEater through. After about 10 minutes of running the LintEater while the dryer was running, I was done. I didn't realize it while I was using it, but the garbage bag was almost half full when I finished. I didn't think that much was going to come out. If I didn't use the bag, then I would have made a huge mess in my yard and the neighbor's yard.\n\nI recommend reading the fairly well written manual. There are some tips in there that may not be obvious that will save you from a big headache. I also recommend a dust mask while doing this.\n\nI used an 18v cordless drill with a 3/8\" chuck.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1777, "id": 483506, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 172, "len_tokens": 211, "text": "DO NOT BUY ELECTROLUX!!!!! This was the worst experience I've had with any appliance I've ever bought.  I spent $3500 for a 28 cu ft. Electrolux fridge with a 5yr warranty that just ended.  I've had over 20 service calls with nearly every internal part of the refrigerator replaced not to mention countless issues with the ice dispenser. Every time someone came to fix the issue, we would have another issue within a few months.  The technician that came to my house got to the point where he was demanding I insist on a replacement. However despite all the issues, the repairs and replacement of nearly every part in the fridge, I was constantly refused to get a replacement. Just recently, about a month after my warranty expired, we had ANOTHER issue where black grease, charcoal from the filter, or something foul turned our ice black and stunk up our ice and whole fridge.  I'm done with Electrolux -- going this weekend to buy a new fridge and dump the garbage product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1778, "id": 88465, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 216, "len_tokens": 251, "text": "Anyone who thinks they don't have a problem with lint should look at these pictures.  My house is only 10 years old and this is what came out of our vent.  That doesn't even include what was cleaned out from our dryer filter and what was in just the dryer unit.  This product is very easy to use.  I definitely suggest taping each junction to make sure they don't separate in the vent.  I broke my cleaning into 4 cleanings. Fist cleaning was with just the brush and the first extension.  After ensuring that section is clean I added the second and so forth until the brush came out clean.  Given the length of the brush with all four sections, I found it easier to have another set of hands guide the brush into the vent while the other set was operating the drill.\nI noticed that when I turned the dryer back on there was some lint that was dislodged and blew out the outside vent opening.  Unfortunately in my case some lodged between the slats and is keeping the vent opening from fully closing.  I will be making a trip up my ladder once the ground dries a little so I can remove those pieces.  A little price to pay for a clean vent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1779, "id": 206827, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 187, "len_tokens": 287, "text": "Sure, I wish these OEM filters from Samsung cost a little less.  But they work as advertised, and I trust them.  The one non-OEM filter I tried (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/ReplacementBrand-Samsung-DA29-00020B-Comparable-Refrigerator-Water-Filter/dp/B00TR77DZC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">ReplacementBrand Samsung DA29-00020B Comparable Refrigerator Water Filter</a>) would not even fit into the nozzle of the Samsung refrigerator correctly, and I had to throw it out.\n\nOne other thing - multiple reviews of third party filters will mention how they love that the \"water flow is so much better than with the Samsung filter.\"  To my mind that means either (1) they are comparing a brand new third party filter to a used Samsung filter, OR (2) the third party filter is doing a substandard job of filtering the water.  I would also note that the Samsung OEM filter is NSF 53 certified, while none of the third party filters I've looked at have this certification (most have no certification at all, and one I found was \"independently certified at NSF 42\" but has no NSF emblem on it).\n\nIn this case I believe that a genuine filter from Samsung is worth the extra cost.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1780, "id": 353979, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 187, "len_tokens": 261, "text": "Overall, happy with this purchase.  Stainless finish matches our Jenn-Air.  This one had the features we wanted.  We liked the simple back-lit blue round buttons.  We did not want the touchscreen models.  Touchscreens over a range, seriously?  Nothing here to routinely replace.  The filters are built well and dishwasher safe.  Fan is noticeable, but quiet on low.  You can still have normal conversation with it on low.  Fan on High is loud, but it does the job.  At 450CFM, most local codes will not require an air-return.  The 50 watt halogen lamps get hot and are not efficient.  I replaced them with 3 watt LED's and they are just as bright.  The first one came damaged.  It was from Amazon and had previously been returned.  There was no apparent exterior packaging damage, but had a large dent.  Amazon, of course, took it back.  I then ordered it directly from Ancona through Amazon.  Free shipping and $30 cheaper.  2nd one arrived in perfect shape.\n\n*****Update***** 24 months of use and all is working good......no burned out lights and fan is working great.  I would purchase this hood again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1781, "id": 285198, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 191, "len_tokens": 289, "text": "Folks, let me tell you how this product COMPLETED MY LIFE.  At first, I was happy and content, thinking how life was just swell with my Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerator flawlessly cranking out ice on demand.  When, all of a sudden, the ice stopped.  Instant crisis.  How can I go about my day knowing that I may have very well consumed my last ice cube?  Sleepless nights, distracted while at work, trouble in bed, you name it.  Sure, I could call an appliance repair man, but my name isn't Rockefeller.  I continued to ponder my dilemma over warm drinks.  Those were the warmest drinks of my life.  Then, it hit me.  You Tube!  A few instructional videos and one, ONE!, Amazon search later, I found the 4389102 for Whirlpool Refrigerator Icemaker Emitter Sensor Control Board W10757851 AP5956767 Condition  New.  Six Phillips head screws, badda boom, badda bing, and We're in the Ice, Baby!!  Every time I hear that ice tray fill, my entire family breaks into choreographed celebratory dance.  Now, I'm sleeping again, work is going well,  and let's just say the Mrs. sure ain't complaining.  Thanks, North American HVAC!  Thumbs up!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1782, "id": 270179, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 171, "len_tokens": 220, "text": "I paid $21 for this including shipping and it worked like a champ.  I bought a used, 11-year old Bosch dishwasher off Craigslist and when I hooked it up, the tub wouldn't stop filling with water.  Sure enough, the valve was corroded with hard water accumulations and it was stuck in the open position.  This replacement did the trick and took no time to install, and I would have given it 5 stars except for one thing... after installation the valve wouldn't open.  I was pretty frustrated and figured they sent a dud (I tested the wiring with a Flukemeter to make sure the electronics were working so I knew it was a mechanical problem).  It turns out that the solenoid portion (the greenish part on the top) wasn't seated fully.  I was able to push it on (about 1/8th of an inch) and it worked fine after that.  So it's probably not the highest quality, but it's a perfect fit and it'll probably outlast the rest of the dishwasher.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1783, "id": 101955, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 185, "len_tokens": 233, "text": "I'm totally infatuated with this product...I bought it because I do a lot of hand wash and hate wringing out clothes...  This spin dryer seems to work as well on dainties as it does on large towels...It takes about an hour for most things to dry on the drying rack and little things dry in about 20 minutes so drying time is comparable to an electric dryer .  For most people, I'd recommend using this for everything that can fit except towels as they obviously are not 'fluffy' after rack drying..\n\nThe only criticisms are as follows:\n1. the hose is ridiculously short and I had to extend the length.  some people received an extension hose with their order...I did not.\n\n2.  The piece that's supposed to go on top of the clothes is flimsy and broke after the 2nd use...it's also somewhat annoying to get it into in  the spinner\n3.  if they ever redesign it...shorter and fatter might be a little easier to use as the actual barrel is rather narrow.\n\nthat said, I still wouldn't give this up - I love it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1784, "id": 567324, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 194, "len_tokens": 239, "text": "General Review of General Electric Profile Refrigerators. BEWARE of Warranty. You pay the big bucks to have an intelligent water dispensing and ice dispensing system. They claim the refrigerators are warrantied for years. FINE PRINT WARNING: It doesn't cover the electronics of the refrigerator. I've barely had mine 2 years and the electronics have failed causing the ice dispenser and water dispenser to completely cease operation. Cost to repair: approx $600 and their repair department doesn't even stock the parts (probably because people end up throwing their broken Refrigerator in the dumpster or live with a crippled appliance). And to add insult to injury it takes two repair orders to fix the issue. Also of nuisance is the \"Cookie Monster\" Ice dispenser (when it works at all) that even with a perfectly positioned glass seems to find a way to serve ice to the floor, especially if it's crushed. Beautiful appliance when it works but unreliable, expensive to maintain, and improperly engineered. Visually appealing appliance that is a piece of American trash. IMHO. This appliance probably deserves a 2, However, I'm giving it a 1 due to unethical business practices and deceptive Warranties.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1785, "id": 195867, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 234, "len_tokens": 273, "text": "This machine broke after one year of normal use. The belt snapped and I can't find a replacement belt anywhere! Now I have to buy a new dryer and it damn sure won't be a panda! My panda washing machine broke just the day before my dryer,  this is ridiculous! After digging around in the guts of the dryer, I can see that planbed obsolescence is definately a prominent part of the design. It has a plastic grill that has no purpose other than to trap lint inside of the machibe where it can build up to be a fire hazard, the snap in filter no longer snaps in place as the cheap plastic nipples that hold it in place have worn down in just around a year of use! The metal plate that the filter snaps on to collects lint in the metal fan blades and clogs reducing airfliw and risking an over heat! The \"blue belt\" that rotates the drum is prone to stretching out and dry rot,  and has broken twice now!! Twice! it is a proprietary part you have to buy for nearly 20 dollars and it has zero protection! A sharp sheet metal structure encases the blue belt and rubs against the belt causing it to wear out rapidly. DO NOT BUY ANY PANDA PRODUCTS! It's clear to me they are designed purely for profit, not for their customers.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1786, "id": 173226, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 174, "len_tokens": 229, "text": "Fixed the dreaded F35 & Sud error on my Whirlpool Front Loading Steam Washer model WFW9700VW01.  A dozen loads after changing the part,all is well.  Called Whirlpool customer service and they were less than helpful with identifying the part number or explaining the error code. Be careful here, I almost ordered the wrong part.  A part list is available from the Whirlpool website.  The best whirlpool customer service could offer was to send a repair man out for a base $105, plus parts and labor.  Found some great how-to videos on Youtube.  A few tips: To disconnect part from frame, it's a half-turn clockwise.  Part was a bit delicate, so be careful when removing and reconnecting clip/cable.  3 screws on top back to remove washer top.  Found the hidden repair manual after removing the front panel below the washer door (another 3 screws).  The repair manual, which was taped to the inside of the lower panel, provides details on the error codes and explains how to run the diagnostic tests.  Good luck!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1787, "id": 210051, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 173, "len_tokens": 209, "text": "This 1-star review is really based on the fact that I have to even replace this thing.  The original leaked causing lots of damage to my kitchen floor and cabinets. So while this replacement was easy to do myself, I'm still disappointed that I even needed it and that it caused the damage that it did.  Homeowner insurance covered me and I think they even got LG to pay some of my deductible, but it shouldn't have happened in the first place.\n\nThe part is easy to replace.  Do it yourself or at least try to before hiring a professional.\n\n---- LG product rant below skip if you want ---\n\nI will never buy another LG appliance/Kenmore appliance.  Every single one of mine have given me issues.  I'm done with LG.  LG is like the RCA of appliances.  If you've ever owned any RCA electronics, then you know what I'm talking about.  It's like buying something with a hidden timer on it that counts down to when it will break down on you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1788, "id": 408911, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 249, "len_tokens": 282, "text": "This Mini Fridge with a separate freezer is great!\nThe separate freezer section is wonderful.\nMuch better than a single door mini-fridge with a freezer inside, this one actually keeps things frozen and has no affect on the other foods in the fridge, as can be a problem with other mini fridges and any food that gets stored too close to the top little freezer compartment.\nThe 2 doors in no way detract from the space and I can easily fit lots of drinks or food items of any sort in the fridge.\nThe doors (fridge and freezer) have shelves with wire brackets that are not removable, which seems silly, but is great, because whenever I have had a fridge where they come out, I lose them.\nThere are 2 glass shelves and a drawer for the Fridge that do remove, which is also great, because they are easy to clean and adjust for different sized food items if needed.\nThis fridge is really useful, and though it is totally not relevant there is a cute factor having a mini fridge with 2 doors that cannot be denied.\nI'm enjoying this mini fridge a lot. It is keeping food cold and frozen, it started working perfectly right out of the box and it is the perfect size to put in almost any room I want to have an extra fridge for drinks or snacks.\nI received this product at a discount in exchange for my honest and unbiased review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1789, "id": 210199, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 183, "len_tokens": 205, "text": "After searching the internet extensively apparently the te error IS NOT caused by a faulty thermistor. It is caused by faulty wiring. This is probably the same faulty wiring that caused my stator to short out after just 2 years and almost cause a fire in my laundry room.\n\nMany people on the internet state that the wiring connecting the thermistor to connector that then goes to the control panel is faulty. After having disassembling my washer twice, one quickly learns that all you have to do is lean the washer back to access the thermistor.\n\nI gently pulled the blue and white wires at the connection plug for the thermistor and the blue one came right out of the connector. The white took a little resistance and then also came right out. Clearly this is the solution LG should be telling people to check when they get a te error.\n\nI stripped and connected the thermistor wires to the wires that go to the control panel and the washer now works fine.\n\nClearly LG has a liability here. Faulty wiring causes fires.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1790, "id": 42501, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 270, "text": "I love this vent accessory!  I live in an apartment and was previously using an all-in-one portable washer/dryer unit (Malber WD1000) which drained the condensed dryer water into my kitchen sink and did not require venting.  The machine broke down and replacement parts are unavailable so after quite a few trips to the laundrymat, I purchased a portable washer and a compact portable tumble dryer but had no dryer vent hook-up.  The manual stated it needs to be vented outside or the warranty would be voided, so using an indoor dryer vent box wasn't the best option.  This aluminum window plate is the perfect solution!  It is very lightweight so it is easy to install and remove if you're unable to leave it in the window at all times.  It's made of a thin aluminum which isn't the best material against drafts, so if you are leaving it in your window permanently I would suggest using some insulation foam (like you would use for the sides of a window air conditioner) but otherwise I think it does an awesome job.  As one reviewer noted, it did have aluminum dust residue on it so I wiped it off before using it and it has been fine since.  I can't say enough about this product!  It has saved me from the dreaded trips to the laundrymat!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1791, "id": 489072, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 228, "len_tokens": 274, "text": "These ovens were installed in our new home in November 2012.  Temperature control has been an issue from day one!!  We have calibrated the ovens both up and down numerous times.  We have had the control panel replaced two, maybe three times.  Nothing helps.  I can set the upper oven for any given temperature, and when the bell sounds saying the correct temperature has been reached, the temperature inside the oven can be as much as 75 degrees low.  Sometimes I can wait up to ONE HOUR for the internal temperature to reach my intended temperature, and often times I have to constantly reset the temp so it will go back into the preheat mode.  Sometimes I even turn on the broiler so as to get the temperature to increase.  At least three authorized technicians have worked on these ovens, and while they say they are fixed, they are NOT.\nThe website says with KitchenAid ...you can be sure that the meals that come out of your kitchen will be as good as you imagined.  Not so, I cannot trust the ovens to cook a roast properly, nor can I trust them to bake properly.  In fact, I did some apple pies this weekend, and they were a disaster as the oven never reached the preset 400 degrees, yet the pies burned in much less time than scheduled.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1792, "id": 543920, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 202, "len_tokens": 233, "text": "I believe this to be a genuine GE replacement part.  On the plus side, the part arrived quickly and there is nothing the supplier of this part did wrong.  I would buy another part here.  I bought this to replace the panel that came with the fridge.  After purchasing the GE fridge and using it for about a year and a half, one of the buttons broke when it was pushed on the edge.  I was able to remove the panel and fix it temporarily.  I did this over and over again with the various buttons for about 3-4 years until the panel was so cracked and broken from the brittle plastic that it required replacement.  I was very happy with this replacement for about a month but now it appears that the panel's T clip that attaches to the fridge broke.  This creates a slight gap between the panel and the fridge.  I am afraid to remove and return because I won't have anything temporarily (I threw the old one away) and I'm afraid this part is just going to break more.  I will not buy another GE appliance (I also have had multiple problems with my matching GE microwave).", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1793, "id": 26955, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 185, "len_tokens": 218, "text": "The roof cap came double boxed and arrived within the expected time frame. It was a low cost leader from the seller which drove part of my decision to purchase along with visiting the manufacture's site. It was simple to install and came with good simple directions whicha re also available on manufacturer's website. Came with a reducer coupler from 3\" to 4\" ducting. Most bath fans are 3\" outlets and this cap has a 4\" opening and the adapter allows for an easy connection - at least in my application. The backdraft damper is maybe the only possible questionable feature of this item that is 5 stars. It does not allow for a 100% seal the way it is designed because the flap has no offset to allow for the additional thickness of the closed foam seal used. I was able to make the addition of a flap to cover the small 1/4\" area that the foam is unable to seal at near the hinge. It certainly is sufficiently sealed otherwise, I am just a little fussy about any air leaks in my house.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1794, "id": 192211, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 172, "len_tokens": 214, "text": "Purchased this filter to replace the one in my Samsung Model KF4287HARS French Door Refrigerator.  Installed as instructed and ran through about 6, 20 ounce cups of water to bleed out the air and any impurities from the filter.  Thought all was well but noticed later that day when the ice maker ran, system started making a knocking noise.  Assuming there must still be air in the line, ran through the 6 cup process again.  But this time, every time I ran the water it knocked for the first 5 seconds or so.  I also noticed the water was coming out with much less pressure.  Tasting it, there was a marked change in the quality we had enjoyed since purchasing the refrigerator.  After another day listening to the knocking, I became afraid I was damaging the refrigerator and put back in the old filter.  Knocking went away, flow returned to normal and taste improved.  Ordered the Samsung original and chalked this up as a lesson learned, you get what you pay for.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1795, "id": 332218, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 210, "len_tokens": 272, "text": "This is an ingenious little device. First thought is to use it in the freezer (like the product photos, etc. describe), but there really are quite a few other places you can use it. For instance, we will be using it in the camper, as well as in our portable coolers (picnics, at the beach, etc.).\n\nSimple, yet well-made (which kind of surprised me; I was expecting something far flimsier). But its simplicity may also be its downfall. There's nothing supplied that I (literally) don't have lying around the house. So I can make them and save the $6.99 (Amazon price at the time of this review) this cost me. All one needs is an old Rx pill bottle, a marble, a rubber band, and a Velcro tie wrap.\n\nSo while my wife and I really like this cool little device/aid, if the seller/manufacturer wants me to buy more (as opposed to making my own) they really need to find a way to dramatically lower the price. At $2.99 I buy this every time. At $6.99 I'm looking to make my own.\n\nHaving said this, the device is neat and worthy of a solid 4-star rating. Buy one (if only to say \"Thank You!\").\n\n4 stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1796, "id": 184553, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 232, "len_tokens": 262, "text": "This was my second time purchasing this water filter online via AMAZON and not at the department store. The first worked great and the water tasted fine. I'm pretty picky with the taste of my water, especially while I was pregnant. I came back to purchase another filter and stopped to read reviews again because as we all know products change over time. I was hesitant to purchase the filter again after reading some reviews and seeing pictures of blackish/grey colored water and people claiming the product was not OEM. I cannot say that this is an OEM product but I know it looks the same and it works the same. The water that came out of my fridge after installing this filter WAS grey however I remembered that carbon is used in a lot of filters to clean water and needs to be rinsed before use. I also remembered that when purchasing my fridge and using it for the very first time, it was recommended to dump out the first 2-gallons of water that came out of the dispenser so that you could not only rinse the water lines but also rinse the filter. And that's exactly what I did with this filter, dispensed water until it ran clear. Tasted it and there was no funny taste to it. I would purchase this filter again (after reading reviews again of course!)!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1797, "id": 112250, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 219, "len_tokens": 262, "text": "We bought this dishwasher 4 weeks ago after our Bosch quit after 14 years.  The reviews on the new Bosch dishwashers were so bad I decided to do some searching.  It seems most of the new dishwashers are so efficient with water and energy that they have multiple problems. One complaint about this dishwasher is loading dishes.  It took me a while to figure how but I put my first plate next to the silverware basket and the plates line up well.  There is lots of room for so many more dishes than my Bosch held.  This was one reason I did not want another Bosch.  My Bosch did recommend Finish and it does work so much better that the other brands.  I highly recommend Finish and you must use a rinse aid.  It must be because the water does not get as hot as the Bosch. The only cycle I use is sanitize cycle.  Why not?  Everything dries well with this cycle- even plastics.  Also I would recommend having it installed professionally. The size is a little larger and the service men who installed mine had a difficult time.  The racks roll smoothly also and I can wash taller glasses that my Bosch.  I will continue to post if problems occur.  It is a beautiful dishwasher also-very quite.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1798, "id": 75080, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 223, "len_tokens": 258, "text": "If you need a Thermometer/Hydrometer combo, and like me have bought countless versions with probe that advertised they were for humidity to find out after was temperature only, then this is your final stop!!! I had purchased so many different model Thermostat/Hydrometer's which stated the probe was for both but when the unit came, it stated on the box the probe was temperature only, I was ready to give up. I mean, if your going to put a probe on a piece of electronics so the unit is protected from getting damaged from weather conditions, then put the hydrometer in the unit itself and not the probe, I cant understand the logic. Anyway, This unit has a very good range. Its 40 feet from the transmitter to the display and still the signal shows strong. The readings are very accurate as well! This unit also saved me a lot of hard work because one of my heat mats thermostats went bad and started heating up a lot hotter then normal. Soon as I saw the temperature going up higher on the display, I ended up saving a lot of my plants. Otherwise I would have had seedling soup had I not caught it in time. If your raising plants that are sensitive to temperature and humidity, then this is the monitor for you!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1799, "id": 570654, "interval": [200, 300], "len_words": 175, "len_tokens": 210, "text": "So far so good!!!! Got it yesterday and I've already used it several times! We currently live in a travel trailer and got tired of going to the laundry mat and spending $15-$20 per week washing our clothes and bedding. We've washed our nice work clothes, our casual clothes, and our queen size sheets (we did these one piece of bedding at a time) and they've turned out great. The spin dryer works pretty well and gets your clothes 80-90% dry. I tend to run the spin dry twice (taking the clothes and putting them back in before the second cycle). Still trying to find the perfect mixture of clothes to get the most dryness possible.\n\nWe have tested out the \"rinsing\" while in the spin dryer, that works well and if the garments in the spin cycler are heavily soiled, the pump will automatically kick in and start draining water. I love the water pump feature that drains the water versus the gravity drain.\n\nAgain, after a few uses, so far so good!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1800, "id": 264892, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 262, "len_tokens": 327, "text": "I received this item with a quarter sized dent on the side, but I wasn't to bummed out about it.  So I began taking out all the parts to begin putting it together.  After I got the casters on and stood the fridge upright, I noticed the door does not seal all the way at the top.  At this point I was thinking to myself, I can work with this, maybe i'll use a bungie cord to hold the door shut.  So I continued putting this kegerator together, as I put the tap handle/tower on the top of the fridge, I noticed it wouldn't lock in tight.  I would place the tower in and turn it so it was locked in, but it wasn't tight.  The thing was so wobbly it would rock back and forth and side to side when moving the fridge, or if you tried to operate the handle (to pour a beer) the whole tower would pull forward.  This was the last straw, this fridge is a total POS from top to bottom, maybe I got a bad one and the rest are good but i'm not taking any chances.  My buddy bought the \"igloo\" kegerator locally from Home Depot, which has pretty bad reviews on Amazon, but he doesn't have any problems.  The only good experience in all of this, is Amazon's return policy.  The UPS guy came to my house and picked up the fridge and sent it back, no worries...well no worries yet, I still haven't received my refund, but I don't foresee any problems.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1801, "id": 219603, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 288, "len_tokens": 325, "text": "I only paid $99.00 for mine at Home depot so that was a plus but I like the way it's built and the speed at which it makes ice. I use it while I'm around the house only. I fill it up and dump it into a container before it has a chance to melt and put it in my freezer. I like this mostly because I can use filtered water where as the fridge ice maker is tap water. It's only made for small amounts of ice at a time, it does not have a freezer for storage. If it continues to work as well as it does I would definitely recommend it to anyone that's tired of filling ice trays.\n\nThings to know: This is an ice maker, it does not store ice! It cost's several hundred dollars for an ice maker with a freezer unit for the capacity to store ice.\n\nThe basket holds a fair amount of ice but it needs to be dumped often before it melts back into the reservoir.\n\nThe ice is always a little wet when you take it out to store but if you throw it in the freezer immediately it's just fine.\n\nI have found that if I turn it on while I'm cooking and dump it about every twenty minutes and I never run out of ice, in fact have two large containers in reserve at all times.\n\nThis has gotten some poor reviews from others but I believe once a person has the understanding of the unit and it's limitations...they'll love it! You wouldn't buy a dust buster to vacuum your whole house...it's just for small jobs, keep that in mind with this little ice maker.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1802, "id": 47191, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 241, "len_tokens": 322, "text": "When I had to replace my old stove, the installer accidentally took my metal stove strips, along with the old stove.\n\nI wasn't too upset until I started looking to replace them and found that they're all white plastic (instead of metal) now-a-days. I have an almond-colored range, plus worry about foods (such as spaghetti sauce) staining white plastic.\n\nThis dealer was the only that I could find, at Amazon or anywhere else, that still sells the metal strips.\n\nThey shipped them quickly and they're even nicer than the ones that I had previously ... For one thing, they have a smoother surface than the ones I had before, which will make them easier to keep clean, as grease tended to stick in the brushed surface of the other ones.  They're wider than the ones I had before, too. Very sturdy and not likely to bend. I'm happy.\n\nThey're each sold individually so you'll need to order two if you want to have one for each side of the stove.\n\nUPDATE, MARCH 2013: THIS PRODUCT THAT MY REVIEW IS ATTACHED TO IS NOT THE PRODUCT THAT I ORIGINALLY REVIEWED 4 YEARS AGO. THE PRODUCT I PURCHASED (AND AM STILL USING) IS SOLID METAL WHEREAS THE PRODUCT THAT AMAZON HAS ATTACHED MY REVIEW TO IS METAL-PLATED PLASTIC.  AMAZON DOES STILL LIST THE ALL-METAL VERSION.  JUST DO AN AMAZON SEARCH FOR: \"Kleen Seams(tm) Stove Counter Gap Cover - Improvements\".  HOPE THIS HELPS.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1803, "id": 5954, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 291, "len_tokens": 353, "text": "This stuff actually works. I was having trouble with constantly having to clean my Vicks cool mist humidifier...it would get scummy and the wicking filter would turn brownish and crusty. I used the drop in tank cleaning cartridges that were recommended by the manufacturer and they worked for maybe two weeks (the month of sanitizing action that was claimed was stretching it IMHO)...that's just not good enough for me considering their price. I run my humidifiers CONSTANTLY in the winter and I was getting tired of replacing wicking filters and having to totally clean out the tray under the tank on a weekly basis - I'm a busy girl on a budget.\nRead the reviews for this product and decided to give it a try. It really works. I add 5ml to the tank each time I fill it up (once a day) and I see NO MORE SCUM/BIOFILMS forming in any part of the tray, on the filter, or in the tank. No discoloration. I wish I had a before picture but attached is how my wicking filter looks after AT LEAST a month of constant use...clean and moist. Before using this product after the same amount of time I would see discoloration always in the filter.\nAlso I was pleased to see the large size of the bottle. I always expect to receive bottles of product that are much smaller than I had expected. This will last a long time - easily one winter and then some. I keep it right under the sink where I fill the tank along with a 5ml syringe ( I work in a lab). Easy peasy. Don't waste time with anything else.\n ps. I don't write reviews..so this product really impressed me", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1804, "id": 321145, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 237, "len_tokens": 303, "text": "UPDATE: After a few months of use, I find that this mini fridge produces an excessive amount of heat. Since I have it in a small room (10' x 12'), this fridge keeps the whole room uncomfortably warm. It's like having a heater turned on 24 / 7. The sides of the fridge feel very hot to the touch. The fridge runs frequently and gets so hot on the outside (top and both sides) that it can burn a person's hand. This is extremely unsafe, and I suspect the seller of selling refurbished defective models as \"new\". I plan to appeal and return this unsafe item. * Recent serious fires were started by flawed refrigerators, as the UK apartment block fire.\n\nORIGINAL REVIEW: I purchased the Haier 2.7 cubic feet mini fridge with freezer (white), to replace my 1.7 foot model. PROS: I love how spacious this mini fridge is, compared to the 1.7 -- I can now fit everything I need without over-stuffing. CONS: This model seems to produce much more heat outside, and is louder when running, than the smaller 1.7 model. Also, just like the smaller model I ordered, this fridge arrived with small dents in the outside and appeared to be a slightly \"defective\" (cosmetically only I hope) unit.\n\nIt has been keeping my food and frozen items very well. I will update this review in the event of problems or issues arising.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1805, "id": 57254, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 317, "len_tokens": 376, "text": "Works great. The only downside, and it is a small one, is that the opening to attach a vacuum hose to the vacuum adapter is meant for 2\" (i think) vacuum hoses which come on large shop-vacs. I don't own one, just a small shop-vac and regular vacuum, so I couldn't use the adapter. The consequence was that as lint was cleaned from above it just fell out the bottom of the vent onto the floor. I just set my vacuum hose down and let it get as much as possible, stopping every once in a while to manually clean up, but it did make a mess. Again, this is a minor complaint, but a small price to pay for a job well done.\n\nOtherwise, the tool worked very well with and without attaching to a power drill. The rods were significantly more flexible than I expected while also being very strong. I never worried about breaking them, even when I had connected many of them together (I bought the Gardus R3203612 LintEater 12-Foot Extension Kit).\n\nThe wide brush was very firm and did an excellent job of cleaning the lint out of the vents.\n\nIMPORTANT NOTE: Because the brush is so firm, you may do damage if your house uses vinyl or metal ducting, and this is stated in the instructions. I have solid pipe, so had no issues. I did use the brush manually to clean the lint from the flexible ducting between the dryer and wall. It did not perform as well at getting the lint out of the crevices, and I can see how using the power drill and more force could have torn it open.\n\nIn the end, 5 stars. The product was exactly what I needed. Before ordering I thought the price was a little too high for such a product, but after use I believe it earned its money.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1806, "id": 31044, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 267, "len_tokens": 326, "text": "I really wanted to like this unit. I actally had the IP210TI which is identical to the IP210SS unit but is in titanium finish instead of stainless.  To be frank, here were the problems:\n\n1.) Compressor went out in less than 1 week. Edgestar wanted to send me replacement unit with Koldfront name brand, but Koldfront doesn't have any reviews on the product so if I try to resell in future I would not get as much money as Edgestar reviews.  They are in back order on this unit for over 2 weeks.\n\n2.) The tech rep at Edgestar by the name of Anthony Stephens was extremely rude. I blamed Fedex shipping for compressor issue but my box looked fine when arrived and I bought a Newair unit 2 years ago with no issues. He also kept interrupting my conversation and would not answer some simple questions about the unit.\n\n3.)The reservoir is very small on this unit. If I knew how small it is I would have gotten a bigger one. Also, it's pretty noisy.  I can hear the ice constantly falling in the reservoir from downstairs (I own a duplex).\n\nIt looks like I received a lemon so it's back to my ice cube trays again until I receive a replacement.\n\n***NOTE: I bought this item with a $45 shipping fee. If I were to return it I'd lose out on the $45 I was charged. So learn fro me...next time buy a unit that includes free shipping included so you are not out the shipping charges if you want to return it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1807, "id": 518862, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 235, "len_tokens": 319, "text": "I purchased this set (245703) to replace the drum bearings on my Bosch Nexxt 500plus series Front Loader- model# WFMC5301UC/13.  It had started to sound like a concrete mixer, so I knew it was time.  The root cause of the bearing failure seemed to be shaft seal failure (also included in this package), which allowed water from the tub into the bearings.\nNew bearings are silent and well-made, it seems.  This requires a full teardown of the washer to nearly nothing, took a bit of time.  I found an online presentation- \"R020031E Bosch Siemens WFMC WFXD Washer.pdf\" that broke down the task nicely, with lots of pictures- Google it.  I also found a video on youtube that did a good job, too.  I'm a pretty hardcore DIY-er, but both of these were a great help in disassembly/reassembly.\nI put the new bearings in the freezer for a few hours prior to installing them on the drum- maybe helped them fit into the drum race slightly easier, but only slightly.  It took some serious pounding to knock the old ones out, and several minutes each to get the new ones in.  Take care not to damage them when installing- tapping/hammering/pressing on anything except the very outside ring will be disastrous.\nOverall, I'm pleased.  The washer is back to its original, nearly-silent self.  I hope these (and the rest of the washer) will last another 2-3 years.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1808, "id": 175654, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 288, "len_tokens": 315, "text": "\"Oh no!\" along with an awful squealing noise is what I heard coming from the laundry room the day before my family and I were to make the 1200 mile road trip to Disneyland. I ran to the cause of the noise and found my wife trying to shut off a washing machine that was quickly flooding the laundry room floor. After getting the machine shut off and every shoe, jacket, chair and other assorted items that somehow found themselves in the laundry room that day up off the floor and out on to the back patio to dry I could asses the problem. My hope was that one of the cold or hot water hoses that feed the washing machine had split and sprayed water everywhere; easy fix. But no, the hoses were intact and it seemed as though the water was actually coming from the bottom of the machine itself. I knew then that I would be disassembling the machine and searching for the problem somewhere deep in the bowels of a household item that is supposed to just work and be left alone.\n\nIt took me about half an hour before I found the smoking gun; the seal between the tub and the transmission had been destroyed and allowed water to pour past it and down onto the drive belt (the squealing noise) and eventually onto the floor. I removed the seal, did a google search using my washing machine's model number and located the replacement kit. Amazon had the best price by about half so I made the purchase.\n\nThe part was waiting for me when we got back from Disneyland and I got everything back together inside of an hour. No leaks.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1809, "id": 568833, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 229, "len_tokens": 392, "text": "\"Replacement for...\" means it is not the exact same as a Samsung filter. Bought 3, 1st one leaked a little - so put in 2nd one - AAHAA!!! it worked. Just installed the last one, it leaked like a sieve, over a gallon a day. Further investigation shows they incorrectly noted this model # was correct for my fridge. It is a WF-101. Correct model # for a rf23j9011sr ref is HAF-CIN. It may work great in the correct refrigerator , but not in mine.\nAdded: Seller refused to resolve this issue. Problem is that their product page clearly indicates that this is a Samsung named product. The box clearly shows \"SAMSUNG\" and ref. # rf23j9011sr is a correct application for this filter in the referenced Samsung refrigerators. Upon receiving order, the filter is id'ed as a WF-101 NOT the correct filter for a Samsung Ref. (rf23j9011sr). Upon contacting Samsung, they tell me that the correct filter is HAF-CIN and what I was sold is a counterfeit part that would damage my ref. This ad is at best, misleading - and could be described as fraud - especially since it has resulted in about $500. in damage to my hardwood floor in kitchen.  Surely AMAZON policies  would not condone this fraudulent activity.&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Replacement-Water-Filter-Cartridge-for-Samsung-Refrigerator-Models-RF23J9011SR-AA-RF26J7500WW-3-Pack/dp/B01F89ZMD2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Replacement Water Filter Cartridge for Samsung Refrigerator Models RF23J9011SR/AA / RF26J7500WW (3 Pack)</a>", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1810, "id": 115813, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 304, "len_tokens": 356, "text": "The item works as expected and was an exact copy of the ice maker I was replacing. I wrote a separate review about the seller because I, like other negative reviewers, had an issue with the electrical harnesses. The item is advertised as coming with 4 harnesses. I did not receive any harnesses at all. Fortunately, I was able to reuse the harness from my old ice maker so it ended being okay. But still, it specifically says it comes with 4 harnesses so to receive 0 harnesses was a bit frustrating.\n\nRegarding several reviewers who said the ice maker leaked water all over their freezer: It is not that the ice maker is leaking. It's that the ice maker is overflowing. There is a water level adjustment dial that you have remove the front cover to get to. The instructions clearly tell you to check the water level and adjust as needed. After having water overflowing into my freezer, I took the ice maker back out, lowered the ice maker's water level setting, drained it and dried it off completely, then reinstalled it. It is working perfectly fine now, and I'm getting ice cubes that are pretty much the same size that my old ice maker made.\n\nSo don't be deterred by negative reviews about leaking. I don't think that it can leak as long as you don't allow too much water to flow into it. But do we wary about the seller not sending all or any of the electrical harnesses. If you are like me and this ice maker looks exactly like your old Whirlpool or Kenmore ice maker, then you should be fine. But if you are replacing a completely different one, you may run into problems plugging the thing in if the seller doesn't send all the advertised harnesses.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1811, "id": 434862, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 272, "len_tokens": 322, "text": "This thing is amazing. I needed to attach an under cabinet range hood to the existing ducting under the range for a downdraft hood that used to be in the kitchen. I needed something with the CFM to be able to get the smoke through five 90 degree turns into the cabinet, into the wall and down, back under the range,  into the existing ducting and out of the house. I was really not sure it was going to work, but after getting the new ducting into the wall and getting the hood hooked up, I was thrilled to turn it on, go outside, and feel a powerful flow of air coming out the vent. I do crack a door or window for return air. After a few uses during cooking, I can safely say I couldn't be happier.\n\nEven with all of that airflow, the unit is unbelievably quite. I've had recirculating hoods that have been much louder.\n\nAside from the functionality, the thing looks great. Very professional-looking. I did think that the LED lights were too bright. Oddly, I saw a few reviews prior to buying this unit that complained that the lights were too dim, so I though perhaps the company ha'd changed them due to customer comments. I emailed the company to confirm. The replied to me promptly confirming that this was indeed the case, and they sent me a set of the old lights that day. They're much better in my opinion.\n\nBottom line is this hood is a standout. If you're looking for a hood that will move some air, this is the one for you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1812, "id": 151240, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 285, "len_tokens": 364, "text": "Hinge fits in Whirlpool Duet HT model WFW9400SW04. See pic showing where original hinge broke. Pretty sure it was a manufacturer defect as the old hinge never worked as smoothly as this new one. New hinge is great!\n\nTo remove the hinge, you need a six pointed Star T20 bit. It's usually available in \"Security Bit Sets\". You can buy at Amazon or other hardware stores. Mine was from Harbor Freight item #68457.\n\nSuggested steps to replace the hinge:\n1. Spray WD-40 on the 2 hinge screws attached to the washer (see pic) and wait about 2 minutes.\n2. Remove these 2 screws using a Star T20 bit. The washer door will not fall off as the hinge has two hooks on the back holding it to the washer.\n3. After removing the 2 screws, lift the door and hinge assembly about half an inch up to unhook, and pull away from the washer.\n4. Lay the door / hinge on a flat surface with screws facing up.\n5. Spray WD-40 on the 8 screws nearest the hinge highlighted in the pic. Wait about 2 minutes.\n6. Remove these 8 screws using a Star T20 bit. On the Whirlpool Duet HT, this was enough to allow the hinge to slide off the door. Didn't need to remove the other screws near the door handle.\n7. Insert the new handle, align the holes, and reinstall the 8 screws. Do not fully tighten screws until all 8 screws are on so you can adjust alignment if needed.\n8. Hang door / hinge onto washer using hooks on back of hinge. Reinstall the 2 remaining screws. Again, do not fully tighten until both screws are on.\n\nJOB DONE!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1813, "id": 12856, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 300, "len_tokens": 390, "text": "Installed now for a week or so..  Absolutely love the look of the new vent hood especially with a new stainless steel backsplash that I ordered with it.\nBoth arrived (using a trial period of Prime) within two days.  The recommended bulbs that were also ordered at the same time took three weeks to arrive from China.  After a few days (week?), I grew impatient and went to Lowes for bulbs.  Time for plan \"B\".  $15 bucks later for a two pack and $5 more for galvanized screws and washers, I was out the door.  To note, screws came with it but I like to get my own, with a bigger bite and head and washers for added grip/security, like drywall screws.\nOpened the box and removed everything.  Realized it came with a rectangular damper, but there was no 7\" round damper as included in the description.  Trust me, I tore the box apart.  Time for plan \"C\".  Go to Amazon and research 7\" dampers.  Pick a five star rated, at close to $40 a bit pricey but want to do it right and it be over with...\nDamper arrives, install vent hood, wire it up, install all new vent duct work to the top of the house.  Tape the heck out of everything with quality HVAC foil tape.  Install the bulbs.  Say a little prayer and hit the lights.  Beautiful.  Click the fan to low, very quiet, and low volume to me.  Click the fan to high, now you are talking.  Very nice and just what I need.\n\nOh by the way, when the original bulbs ordered finally arrived from Lemonbest, I tried them out and they are just the best of all.  Like daylight.  If you like it bright, get cool white bulbs instead of warm white.\nYea....!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1814, "id": 251828, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 317, "len_tokens": 360, "text": "I was going crazy trying to figure out which part of my fridge was broken when the ice maker stopped working. I went on YouTube, Googled here and there, went on message boards and even used Bing to search for the answer. At first I thought the water inlet valves (solenoid) went bad then I was told maybe the tubes were freezing. I even took the ice maker apart seeing if the motor still functions.\n\nAfter 2 weeks I learned so much about my fridge that I am confident in fixing most parts of it! First off, I learned that this particular model is just a bad design. I was kind of let down since my other Kenmore was flawless. I realized that it was even forming condensation on the back right on the spot where the ice maker is. This is probably due to poor insulation and I am planning to take it apart from the inside again and put some styrofoam behind the ice maker so it doesn't form condensation behind that spot. Overtime this will eventually rust through if I don't take care of it.\n\nYou probably already know that Sears uses different models from different companies and re-brand or are specifically made for the Kenmore brand from other companies with slight variations. All I can say is stay away from this particular model with the flex tray. I just don't think it's as reliable as the other type.\n\nTo make a long story short, I would like to thank Amazon and the shoppers/reviewers here for helping me and answering my question on this ice maker. I was at a complete loss and I was getting answers that really helped me out here and made me realize that this was the problem.\n\nI chose this one because it had a lot of positive reviews about the product and I did receive it fairly quick!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1815, "id": 528411, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 287, "len_tokens": 328, "text": "I'm not a mechanical person but I decided to bite the bullet and repair my dryer myself as one of the rollers died and the belt too.  (I also ordered the belt on Amazon. No problems) between YouTube tutorials and a lot of sweat and swearing I managed to replace my rollers. C-clips are evil! Between the c-clip tool I purchased locally and wrecking my hands I got them on. So far the rollers are on exceptionally well and SO quiet! The manufacturer even reached out to me and gave me tips and encouragement so I had an awesome customer service experience! Now, I must get the chubby short arm under the barrel to wind it through the motor and pulls. I've done this twice to no avail. I think I've just got insanely short arms. Im thinking of taking off a part of the back of my dryer to see if I can manage to get it that way. If not I'm going to have to find a friend with longer, thinner arms. The guys on YouTube make it look so simple. Regardless, the rollers were certainly the best and easiest part of my repair and the customer service I received was incredible. Too bad I can't get them to come over and put the belt around the motor for free.  Plus, it'd be a bit of a drive haha regardless, great part, easy assembly considering I don't even know how to run my lawn mower! I do feel extremely proud of myself and thus far my experience has been really good.  Now the only complaint I have is the way that the dryer was actually made to be fixed and no one can help that.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1816, "id": 26449, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 272, "len_tokens": 370, "text": "I purchased 6 boxes for my Vornado HU1  whole room humidifier.  I'm on my 4th box after 3 months of almost continuous use.  They do not compare to the Vornado MD1 factory wicks. Even at half the price they are not worth it.\n\n1. Although they look like an exact fit, they are not. They are slightly skinnier so they collapse inward.  I solved this by wedging straws to keep them against the ventilation fins.\n\n2.  In the first two fillings the BestAir work just like the factory ones, but by the third filling (36 hours) they diminish by 50%!! Why?  I do not know.  They are plenty saturated.  Mind you, I am meticulous with cleaning the unit and monitoring the humidity in the room.  I have many wooden musical instruments that are valuable and must be kept at 70% humidity.  I have two other humidifiers in the same room running simultaneously that use sunbeam universal wicks. They both put 1 gal of water in the air every 8 hours. They begin to diminish after 3 weeks.  My Vornado with the factory wicks would put 1.5gal of water in the air in less then 12 hours for 3 weeks.  When I switched to Best Air wicks it is now only 1.5gal every 24 hours!  Thats half as efficient as the Vornado wicks. At half the price that puts us about even. Except now I would need to add another humidifier in the room to make up for the inefficiency. No way.  I'm going back to the $14 Vornado wicks or try and cut custom wicks from Sunbeam universal at $10 a box.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1817, "id": 181297, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 277, "len_tokens": 323, "text": "I was a little skeptical about ordering this washer but I'm so happy I gambled on it! It works wonderfully! I and my son's family live very remotely in the desert and have to haul our water and have only  small solar systems to run our refrigerators during the day and a couple of lights in the evening. We have had to use a laundromat for our clothes and it is a 50 mile trip round trip. This Panda washer is small and of course does not totally keep us from having to go to the laundromat but it allows us now to only make one trip a month to do large things like bedding, rugs, blue jeans, etc. We have both done about 15 loads in the Panda now and are super pleased with it. We were actually shocked at how  clean it got our clothes, because we get very dirty out here!! It is amazingly efficient! Our white clothes came out clean as a whistle......no stains at all! I did not purchase the Panda with the wringer because the consumer comments all said how small it was, etc. I have an antique \"wringer\" that we use and that does fine. I plan to use this Panda for a couple of months and see if it continues to perform so highly. If so, I will order a second one so we can run two at a time and speed up the laundry day process!  (we use a generator for the Panda, by the way.)\nAt this point, I would most definitely recommend this washer to anyone who isn't able to have a full sized wash machine!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1818, "id": 77171, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 300, "text": "When my 10 year old washing machine stopped running I had a repairman evaluate it and provide an estimate for repair.  On top of the $50 I paid for the service call I was told the drain pump needed to be replaced and was quoted $300 to repair.  I refused to pay $300 to repair my 10 year old washer especially when I could spend just a little more on a newer more modern model.  So I declined the repair and decided to see what the pump cost.  I had nothing to lose since my washer wasn't working anyways.\n\nI and was surprised that the cost was less than $30 shipped which meant that I would have been paying $270 for the labor.  More research on Youtube produced multiple videos that explained that installation was purely a plug and play replacement.  Since I am not completely tool illiterate I decided to give it a try and I ordered the part which took a few days to arrive.  Installation was a breeze and took me more time cleaning up the spilled water from when I removed the hoses than it did to install the darn thing.\n\nWe are a family of 5 and do multiple loads every week.  I would estimate that we have run over 100 loads since I replaced the drain pump and we have not had a single problem since.  I do however notice that my washer is spinning much stronger now than it was before I replaced it but that could have been due to the fact that my OEM pump was degrading.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1819, "id": 486433, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 313, "len_tokens": 389, "text": "We remodeled our kitchen and planned a built in beverage refrigerator.  We chose the Summit SCR1536 because of size and the fact that it was made for built in installation.\n\nBecause this is a beverage refrigerator it was important to me to find a unit that would provide a cold environment for drinks - I wasn't looking for a wine cooler.  When we first installed the unit (last week in February 2012) we set the thermostate to 34 degrees.  Within a short time the unit did in fact cool to 34 degrees.  Unfortunately its a very noisy unit.\n\nNow, three weeks later, the temperature fluctuates between 38 and 42 degrees.  I called for service and was shocked to find out that this is considered normal.  They said that it's impossible to maintain 34 degrees and that running from 38 to 42 degrees is well within what Summit considers \"normal\" - even if I've set the thermostate to 34.  Asked what the room temperature was I told them the kitchen was 77 degrees.  I was told that too can be a problem since the unit will work best in a room under 70 degrees.  (I have a junkie old mini-fridge in my garage that keeps drinks at 34 degrees and I live in Texas where the garage can get over 100 degrees during the day!!)\n\nI can live with the noise - although it's very disappointing - but I'm buying a refrigerator to keep my drinks cold.  The marketing material states that the unit has \"Electronic controls for precise temperature management.\"  Controls that run from 34 degrees to 43 degrees.  I can tell you that the temperature controls are anything but \"precise\" and that this is considered \"normal\" by Summit.\n\nThe bottom line is that as nice as the unit looks, it was not a good choice and I would NOT recommend this product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1820, "id": 449480, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 273, "len_tokens": 327, "text": "I admittedly was quite skeptical about buying these. I have granite countertops in my newer home and didn't want to put some silicone strip in that abyss that is between the stove and the counter. However, I also didn't want food to keep getting down there. We don't spill often but, when we do, it sure is a pain to have to pull the stove out in order to clean the mess so as not to get bugs.  That said, I decided to hop on Amazon and see what was out there. I took a chance and ordered these, based on the reviews. I have to say, I'm glad I did. I initially tried only using one of them, on the side of the stove we use most often. It worked very well but occasionally I do use the other side of the stove. Sauce dripped off the spoon one night while cooking dinner. I immediately took out the other strip and (after cleaning my spill,) placed it on the stove/counter. It's not something that you notice unless you look at it. Unfortunately, the black does show any little speck of anything. However, so does the top of my stove, so it's really a nonissue since I'm already cleaning the stove and counters anyway.\n  Overall, I am very glad I made this purchase and would definitely recommend it to you. If you're reading this review, it must mean you're getting sick of spelling things down there as well.  \n  If you found this review helpful, please click the button below. If you have any questions, I'd be happy to answer them if I can!  ", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1821, "id": 500176, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 252, "len_tokens": 300, "text": "These shower heads are amazing.  I first encountered one on a cruise ship around 2009.  It's like a comfortable pressure washer for your shower.  Without going into too many technical details, uses the Venturi Effect and a special turbulence chamber to change the water into thousands of tiny water droplets that kind of explode when they hit.  It's a very pleasant shower and rinses very efficiently.  After enjoying it for a week on the ship (and wondering why I couldn't get a shower this good at home), I took a picture of it, and proceeded to go home to buy a couple for my showers.  Much to my surprise, they don't really sell them much in the US - that is, they are really hard to find.  I ended up ordering two from a private seller in the UK.  There may be cheaper places to obtain them than here, but it is great that they are available. I didn't buy them for the purpose of saving water or electricity, but they do save a lot - and that adds up, especially if you are heating the water.  If you want the best shower ever (while accidentally saving water and energy), this is the shower head for you.  This is a hand held, and is sold as the shower head only, so keep in mind you will need a standard shower hose and standard hand held shower head holder to make these work.  I used flexible metal hoses, and they look very nice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1822, "id": 218143, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 259, "len_tokens": 350, "text": "I woke up a few days ago with an epiphany; I'm tired of spending $80/ month on laundry. Plus, the aggravation of going to the laundry room in my building with the hopes that the machines are clean and won't take my money... NOT about that life! So! I purchased this \"Nina\" at 3 am, along with the washing wand.  Feeling accomplished I went back to bed.... Then woke up wondering if I'd made a mistake.  Anyhow, I received Wednesday so here it goes.\nI started at 7:30 a.m. I did 3 full loads (whites, Colors, darks [mostly jeans]). \"Nina\" holds quite a bit. Almost all of My daughter's 3T clothes fit in one load (6 or 7 leggings, lots of 3t underwear, and many h&m long sleeve sweaters).\nOne load also held 6 gap body long sleeve t-shirts along with 1 large towel.\nAlso read that it only took 2 jeans at a time. Well, if you place the jeans carefully, placing them around like a dome, I got 3 pairs (size 12 leggings and bootcut) and filled the middle with a pair of leggings. It was never over-filled and was very smooth. Just keep in mind that the pink topper MUST sit evenly on top. If not, then Nina will jump around.  I took all 3 loads down to the dryer and paid $1.95 to dry ALL 3 loads in one machine for an hour. Was done by 9:30am.\nAll in all, I'm quite pleased with my first experience. I hope this is detailed enough!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1823, "id": 250268, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 283, "len_tokens": 375, "text": "Our GE Profile microwave oven JVM1870WF06 had a buzzing sound and stopped making heat.  I watched many you-tube videos about how to open the microwave oven and disassemble.  I'm pretty handy and work with microelectronics, but was not experienced with this type of appliance repair.  Once it was open, I found the magnetron (\"mag tube\") was shorted across the filament which is quite rare (approx 0 ohm cross F and FA terminals, but no short of either terminal to mag chassis) so I was a little skeptical.  The original part was a Samsung 0MP75 (10) (or is it OMP75 ?)  which I found on-line, but after talking with a local repair shop, he recommended the QBP brand saying it last's longer than the original Samsung part.  He wanted $90 for the part, so I chose to buy this one.\n\nThe picture is wrong for this part, the terminals are the single oval connector, not two separate ones as shown.  I ordered it with free shipping, which took a few days.  when it arrived it was double packed (box in a box) and was in good condition.  I installed the part in about 30 minutes and tested it, and it works great.  I also replaced the round diode (GE part number WB27X10817 now subst. with WB27X10597) on advice from various you-tube videos, and was hoping that was the problem.  The diode replacement (done first, a week before the mag tube) did not solve the problem, but I'm glad I put a new one in anyway.\n\nI would recommend this part and this seller.  Most of all, my wife is happy to have a working microwave again and is amazed it was this easy to fix.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1824, "id": 87298, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1825, "id": 181645, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 287, "len_tokens": 336, "text": "Update: after three years and seven knobs it is safe to say this is an unsafe product. Today my knob broke while the burner was on. I Almost panicked as I had to find pliers to turn off the burners. 7 knobs have costed me over $200 already.\n\nAfter having used it for a couple of years I feel I should offer some input about this product for future buyers to consider. It is a very impressive cooktop and that was the prime reason for our purchase. It is also very easy to clean and mange. There are a few thing to consider though.\n\n1) The middle burner is impressive but unless one does a lot of \"Stir frying\" which requires that high a heat I find it relatively less useful.\n2)To compensate that middle burner the designers seem to have given extra space between the burners and the grill which becomes a problem when using the other burners. It takes quiet a lot of time to bring water to a boil in a saucepan. So much so that I end up pre-boiling water in an electric kettle.\n3) The control knobs are made of plastic and are located flush with the level of the grill. If one uses heavy cast-iron utensils and accidentally drag them near the knob, it is likely to break. This can also happen when cleaning the grill if you accidentally touch the knobs. I've had to replace three knobs in two years at about $50 per knob it is not cheap.\n4) I love the \"Lodge\" cast-iron griddle that comes with it but it seems to go only upto medium heat. Perhaps there must be some industry code reason for it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1826, "id": 434614, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 319, "len_tokens": 360, "text": "This appears to be an exact replacement for the GE GXRLQR.  I have always been amazed at the high prices of these types of filters for the refrigerator (the OEM brand ones), so I thought I would shop around a bit to see what else was out there. I found the Aquacrest brand at a significantly lower price and thought - why not give it a try.\n\nI installed it recently and it fit perfectly.  No leaks, no problems.  It is recommended you cycle about 4 gallons of water through the filter once you put it in place just to flush out any carbon \"fines\" that may be in the filter.  For me that was going to be a real chore, since in this fridge the only thing that the filter is servicing is the ice maker and I didn't really have any way to flush it.  I did try to fill and empty the filter at the kitchen sink a few times to remove any particles (they are harmless by the way), but again didn't meet with much success, so just went ahead and put it in place and will empty the first few loads of ice.  They also include a set of sticker that you can use to mark the date on the filter to help remind you when to change it - they recommend every 6 months (or 300 gallons).\n\nI do believe this will work just as well as the much higher priced OEM filter for the purpose of making ice.\n\nI did receive this product at a discount in return for providing a review of the product, which I have done here.  I am in no way obligated to the seller to provide a positive review.  I do hope that my review is helpful to you in your purchasing decisions and would appreciate your vote of confidence by pressing the YES button below.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1827, "id": 148941, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 280, "len_tokens": 345, "text": "I love this dishwasher. It's perfect for a one or two person household. I had an older version which was fine for about 6  years but then started leaking through the plastic window panel in the front, and also eventually water supply was slow.  Since it cost me less than $300  it was good value for money spent over the years. Eventually relented and replaced with this new model. This one is a great improvement. Cleans well, can fit medium size pots and pans, larger plates you can get in if you tip them at major angle, but not very water or power efficient to wash that way. Gets glasses, cutlery, crockery very clean. Stainless steel interior. Quiet. The rack is a better design as it has slots for leaning wine glass stems, and space for large objects like pots. I can get a roasting pan in there too. Super easy to snap on and off drain and water feed tubing from kitchen tap. Just make sure you measure the spot you will put it in first as it is quite tall. I have mine on counter-top next to taps under  some cabinets. I've experimented with many different gels , and now I used trader-joes automatic dishwasher detergent packs, which fit perfectly inside the dispenser, and there's no left-over detergent build up in the interior and dishes super clean. One thing: you have to make sure no plates or utensils project below the rack, because that will impede the spray arm. The cycles are quite long about 1.5 to 2hours long. That doesn't bother me because I am not a major cook. I usually do 1-3 loads a day. Suits me!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1828, "id": 481969, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 288, "len_tokens": 367, "text": "I wish Amazon had negative ratings....\n\nLet me make it simple for you, DO NOT PURCHASE A MAYTAG product.  Maytag believes it's products should work for 1 year and then become obsolete, at least this is what the Maytag customer service line told me.\n\nI purchased a MVWB950YW (Bravos XL) top loader on September 4th, 2012 for $948.00 plus $99.00 for an extended warranty.  The washer worked marginally well when it was brand new.  June 2014, the washer in spin mode started to sound like a freight train was about to run through my house.  When I called for service the service company immediately signaled it was a bad bearing and offered me $500 to put towards a new or refurbished Maytag!!! They claimed if they were to repair the machine it would VOID the extended service contract????\n\nI wanted the washer fixed, I did not want to spend more money to buy a new machine.  I continued to use the machine as is, with the incredibly  loud noise.  June 2015, the same machine starts to leak water and is even louder.  Again the company in charge of the service contract offers money for me to put towards a new or refurbished machine.\n\nNet is, Maytag engineers it's products based on it's warranty - 1 year.  Anything after that they view as an opportunity to steal more money from you an I \"the consumer\".  Do yourself a favor and NEVER purchase a Maytag product.  I would like to think American products are superior to it's foreign counterparts, however Maytag is not in this league.  In my opinion, Maytag has lost the privilege to call itself American and should no longer be allowed to do business in this country.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1829, "id": 338254, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 292, "len_tokens": 337, "text": "I purchased this as a refurb from a another site that is owned by Amazon with high hopes. I've bought many returned items in the past and never had an issue. I actually trust that when a company sells a refurbished product that they actually refurbish it! Shame on Emerson! My review is strangely just like another recent one on here. The unit came shipped in original box and appeared clean with items taped down like someone actually worked on it. We followed all of the photocopied instructions for pre cleaning and set up and started our first batch. Everything appeared to be working; lights on, water moving, etc. 30 minutes later we still had no ice. 2 hours later still nothing. My husband is great with electronics (he's an electrical/aerospace engineer) and checked to make sure I did everything right.  He had the same results but pointed out that nothing was even get cool on the parts that are supposed to make the ice and upon listening to the cycles noticed that compressor was not coming on. I'm sure this is why is was returned in the first place and it seems obvious that the refurb techs (if they actually exist) didn't even test it long enough to see if it made ice. They just blue lights and called it good. I'm sure the other recent review that had a leaking unit would agree Emerson refurb business is a scam. Oh, the warranty paperwork clearly stated we would have to buy shipping. $$$ I called to see if there were exceptions for items that don't work right outbid the box and the answer was no.\nKudos to the site we bought it from for offering us a full refund with RMA.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1830, "id": 512056, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 240, "len_tokens": 306, "text": "This 2 star rating is based on the fact that this unit does not include the blower.  This rating is not performance related.  The description does not clearly state that the blower unit is not included, which is the heart of a hood.  I guess the wording was somewhat on a borderline because it also didn't state it came with one.  Basically this is a stainless steel shell with power controls ready for the blower and light blubs.  An expensive shell in my opinion now that I know the blower is not included.  I feel that the description shouldn't even mention 1500CFM.  That is mainly why I thought the blower was included.  After it arrived, I did more research but this time on external sites and those sites clearly state that you have to by the blower.  Could I have spent more time to understand the wording?  Maybe.  Should I have gone to external sites to see what their descriptions were?  Absolutely!  I don't feel I was cheated I just feel foolish.  Regardless, I'm going to keep it because we can't change the design this far into construction.  I'm sure that when all is said and done with we'll be happy with the hood liner, hood insert, hood blower and whatever else we would've needed to buy.\n\nSo now I have to buy the P8 (850CFM) at about $450 and also I have to buy the baffles at about $130.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1831, "id": 87366, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1832, "id": 236662, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 284, "len_tokens": 343, "text": "My original motor was manufactured in Mexico and lasted just over 10 years of heavy usage.\n\nI researched this part extensively and \"IF\" it is actually an OEM replacement ( [...] ) the price from the Whirlpool site on 12/18/13 is $156.18.\nI ordered it with Amazon Prime so if there are any issues, I will be able to exchange or return it with no drama.\n\nFYI for anyone considering this repair here is a YouTube link to the process (please note that there may be sight differences due to the model/manufacturing date:\n\nLink to video: [...]\n\nUpdates after I receive and install this motor.\n\n**12/23/2013\nThe motor came this morning after a slight delay with the Christmas insanity that UPS is experiencing.\nThis is an exact OEM replacement motor for my Whirlpool drier, it even says Genuine Whirlpool Replacement Part on the box and was the exact same Made in Mexico motor that was originally installed.\n\nWhy save a few bucks with other motors offered and then end up having to make modifications?\nThis was a direct replacement, and the drier is now working perfectly.\nThis motor came with instructions and new electrical connectors for some older model motors it replaces to bring it up to current safety spec.\n\nI did not opt to change the drier belt, pulley or support rollers as the all appeared to be in excellent condition, but if they had needed replacement this would have been the time.\n\nAll told this took me about 1.5 hours to replace and much of that was cleaning the dust out of the inside of the motor compartment.\n\nJust watch the video link that I posted 1st and you should not have any issues.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1833, "id": 461811, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 224, "len_tokens": 314, "text": "We did a kitchen remodel and for some insane reason, I decided to replace our old black Kitchenaid gas cooktop with a glass smoothtop electric (also Kitchenaid).  While it looked sleek, it was a nightmare to clean (streaked like mad) and the pans slid all over the surface.  Impossible to tell how high the heat was without removing a pan; plus it constantly \"cycled\".  So after regretting my Kitchenaid purchase for a few months, I bit the bullet & returned the Kitchenaid (at a 30% \"restock\" fee!) & purchased what I should have to begin with:  the Thermador 36\" SGS365FS.  I LOVE THIS COOKTOP.  It looks gorgeous, cooks like a dream, and cleans easily.  It's so elegant and functional, I feel like a pro Chef! Plus, it's a Thermador..what more could you ask for?  I clean the stainless surface with a sudsy sponge and then rinse.  Then apply a spray stainless steel \"cleaner\" (to protect the surface) and I'm good to go.  I clean the cast-iron racks in the sink with dish detergent & a plastic dish brush...no problem.  This takes all of ten minutes!  The SGSX model is about $400 more, but I can't see spending that much for the addition of a glass surface around the control knobs...that seems to be the only difference.  Go for this one....you won't be sorry!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1834, "id": 482213, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 282, "len_tokens": 337, "text": "I don't like a bunch of bells and whistles so pleased with this little manual POD, and was extremely easy to figure it out and use.  My washer was broken, and had delay of two different repairmen in, so was very pleased when POD arrived and saved the day.  It kept me from a desperate situation where I would have been willing to just get any washer to take care of laundry piling up.  Cannot easily leave for Laundromat , and they are highly expensive. I am an off the grid type person, and I do not mind doing things manually. I set the little laundry pod near the sink, and I was able to wash twin sheets, towels, and medium jeans with ease.  I probably saved $20.00 the first day I used the POD, and much easier than the hand washing I had done.\nNow for the problems:  The first thing I did was let the light hose flip in floor making a mess.  I would suggest to the manufacturer that they send some sort of prefab weight to hold hose where it is placed.  I solved by tying small wet tea towel around it to weight it in sink.  It does not get the clothes wrung out as well as regular washer, but better than hand wringing causing problem with carpal tunnel.  It was satisfactory, however,  and did not leave dripping as my hand washing did.  You will probably need a clothes line or hangers as they are too damp for dryer.  I just got it, so do not know how it will hold up, but do feel it a wonderful thing to have on hand for camping or power outage.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1835, "id": 98057, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 284, "len_tokens": 336, "text": "Note that if your old setup simply has the outdoor vent pipe sticking out into the house, you will need to cut it to length.  You will have to measure fairly close as usually the outdoor vent plate (the louvered thing) relies on several tabs that snap into square holes on the pipe.  The inside end just fits over the flange on the dryer doc.  A pair of tin snips will do the job nicely.  Also, if the inside hole is sloppy large, you will have to put in a new piece of drywall or plywood to attach the dock to the wall.  Mine had a huge hole so I just used a piece of plywood, measured to reach the wall studs.  Cut a hole in the plywood and mount the dock to it.  So, depending on your situation, you may have a little work to do.  If your drywall is in good shape you could use some mollies.  I paired this with the \"Snap to Vent 90\" on the dryer end.  The Snap to Vent worked well for that application but I did not want to use it (straight end version) for the wall end because I felt the Dryer Dock was a neater and more solid option on the wall end of things.  Also, you will need to clamp the hose to the dock plastic.  I used a regular clamp but I also drilled a hole through the clamp into the plastic of the dock collar and put in a zip screw to keep it nice and secure.  Use a nut driver to secure the zip screw.  I am really happy to have this setup nice and secure and easy to maintain.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1836, "id": 59764, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 238, "len_tokens": 314, "text": "We bought three Electrolux appliances at the same time ---believing the salesman---who said that these were \"top of the line, quality products.  That has not turned out to be the case. All of the appliances look nice--even when they aren't working  The Dishwasher has given us nothing but problems.  It is 'down' as much as it is working.  Most of the time the 'touch' module just quits working--then, for no reason--it will start working again.  It has been sporatic from the beginning.  The Serviceman has no idea ---each time he gets it working again without replacing parts and doesn't know why or what he done--  something different each time.  We have been less than impressed with Customer Service-Now that the warranty has expired  so has their interest in us.  I suppose they are inundated with calls from irate customers and there is nothing about us to cause them to worry about our problems ---but of course they are happy to sell us parts.  Finally, I've come to the realization that I'm better off just applying the cost of parts towards a new replacement---but you can bet your bippy it won't be another Electrolux---not now---not ever.  On the Pro side I can admit that they are very impressive looking.  I can also tell you that 'good looks' probably aren't that high on my list anymore though----I'm going to be happy to put this problem dishwasher in the city trash.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1837, "id": 533301, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 273, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "Somehow, someway, a whole lot of chicken broth spilled on my stove. No comment. Some of it managed to drip behind the front panel, there was an electric burning smell, and one of the burners stopped working. I can only imagine how expensive it would have been to call someone out to look at it. So I turned to my old friend Google.\n\nCut power to stove. Removed the stove knobs, exposing the bolts underneath that held the plate on. Removed those, which allowed the front plate cover to slide off. And there they were, the four switch controls for each of the individual burners. Simple troubleshooting determined that some of the broth had gotten inside one of those switch controls. I confirmed this by simply swapping two of them around, and look at that! Now it's a different burner that doesn't work.\n\nSo I ordered this switch control for amazon, after confirming the model number printed on the one that was bad. It was deceptively easy to replace. Just a little screw holding it down and some wires that snapped into it. If you take the wires off one at a time and snap them into the corresponding slot on the new switch control, it's super easy and you don't have to take a bunch of pics of where all the wires go. After all the wires are moved over (I think there were about six of them) you just put the new switch control in place, reattach the screw that holds it, replace the front cover panel and the knobs. All the burners are back in action, and everybody is happy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1838, "id": 76694, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 292, "len_tokens": 380, "text": "This AcuRite product is not AccuRate (pun intended) and the company support is non- existent.\n\nI went through 2 of these units in the span of 2 months.  The first unit would show an outdoor reading of 91-98% RH, even though true RH was in the 35-45% range.  After bringing the remote sensor inside and placing it next to the base unit and allowing it to adjust for a day, it would register a difference of more than 10% to the base unit's RH.  I felt positive it wasn't anything I had done wrong upon setup: new batteries (lithium's for the remote sensor), placed in a protected location away from the ground and out of the sun, well within the stated working range.\n\nThat unit was returned and replaced with a second one.  Same problems with the added excitement of watching the outdoor RH reading vary wildly in a 24 hour time span.  Seriously, anywhere from 61% to 98%.  Really?  In a Wisconsin winter with the local stations showing a consistent level of 35-40% over a few days?\n\nWhile the temperature readings were accurate - within 2 degrees both indoors and outdoors, this unit does not perform accurately at all in reporting humidity levels.  The layout of the readout is also not intuitive.  The plastic trim separates the outdoor temperature from the outdoor humidity number - foolish.  No response from customer service after two attempts, terrible.  The second unit was sent back too.\n\nIn my opinion this model is garbage at any price and I would recommend something else (I'm still looking myself).\n\nUPDATE 2/10/2013: I attempted to post this review on the AcuRite website. They only display favorable reviews. No surprise there!  I recommend spending your hard earned money elsewhere!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1839, "id": 477946, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 263, "len_tokens": 314, "text": "JB Hunt has provided terrible service. I could have installed this washer/dryer set myself a week and a half ago, with fewer problems and no days off work.\n\n1. They scheduled a delivery, but they were unable to confirm a time window in time for me to schedule an 8 hour leave. I lost half a day of work, and they had to reschedule.\n2. They rescheduled the delivery for a week later, and never showed. I lost a second day of work.\n3. We called and they were unaware that the re-delivery was missed. They required another week to deliver, and I had to take a third full day off work.\n4. The delivery was finally completed, but they did not install the washer/dryer correctly. They reused my old clogged vent hose, connected hot and cold backward, and ran the drain line to the sink when I have a dedicated floor drain for it.\nThey refuse to return the same day, which means I have to take another day off work for them to finish the job. I'm just doing the rest myself.\n\nMost calls to their office leads to a half hour on-hold time, with an eventual dump to voice mail. I have never received a call back from these messages. When I eventually get through direct, the receptionist has hung up on me for complaining. I asked for a manager, and had to leave a message. I never got a call back from that manager.\n\nAfter filing the above information through Amazon, they did at least refund my money promptly.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1840, "id": 106584, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 204, "len_tokens": 321, "text": "<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Maytag-MVWB300WQ-28-4-7-cu-Ft-Top-Loader-Washer-White/dp/B00303XBDM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Maytag MVWB300WQ 28 4.7 cu. Ft. Top-Loader Washer - White</a>&nbsp;The machine seems to be decorative rather than functional. The latest problem is a rubbery plastic gray substance which has attached itself around the gasket near the top hatch and I cannot seem to pull off without endangering the whole gasket. This blobbery hard substance  may have come from using non-chlorine bleach, so watch out. It's another feature of the washing machine that makes it a nightmare. Who knows where else this gray rubbery substance has formed in the innards of the machine. In general, I agree with the many complaints on this and other posts that the water doesn't fill to the top of clothes. You will have to add water manually to the machine with several pitchers of water or a garden hose or modify the circuit board yourself with a potentiometer, as one engineer did. Most people know that clothing needs water to get clean. I just don't understand why these companies are building infernal machines like this. The tried and true is often the best.  Water is not that expensive.  See what your local Laundromat uses. This post is the absolute truth and I stand by it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1841, "id": 53290, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 274, "len_tokens": 324, "text": "I recently bought and installed a Zephyr Essentials Typhoon.  While it is an effective ventilation hood, the reason I am writing this review is to share that the self-cleaning feature did not work well enough for me.\n\nI prepared some stir fry shortly after it was installed.  The grease in my pan was smoking and going into the hood.  The next day, I cleaned it per the directions.  Spray 409 into the blades while running on low and wait for it to return to the drain cups. Then empty the drain cups.  I did this four times that day and then three times the following day.  No matter how often I cleaned it, I could still smell the grease inside the hood.  Even weeks later, I could still smell the grease in the hood.\n\nI am sensitive to smell.  This was the main reason I replaced my over-the-range microwave with a range hood - so my house wouldn't smell like what I had just cooked.  However, smelling grease every time I walk by the range hood is not acceptable to me.  I am replacing this range hood with one that has mesh filters that you can clean and run through the dishwasher.\n\nDepending on your sensitivity to smell, this range hood may or may not work for you.  If you are NOT sensitive to smell like I am (my husband couldn't smell the grease after I'd cleaned it several times but I could smell it from across my kitchen) this range hood might work for you.  But if are sensitive to smell, you might want to consider a mesh or baffle filtered hood instead.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1842, "id": 458553, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 274, "len_tokens": 315, "text": "Purchased this dishwasher in 2009 from the the Home Depot. The dishwasher has done a good job washing and dying the dishes so we have not experienced the issues other people have commented about.\n\nMy main gripes about the dishwasher:\nWe intermittently received the OE error that corresponded to dishwasher not emptying water. After lots of troubleshooting I discovered the problem was with gunk getting stuck on a float that detects the water level in the tub. The dishwasher was draining fine but the float was not moving giving a wrong reading to the computer. The fix requires that you disassemble the plastic levels on the left side of the unit and clean them well.\nWe had an incident were significant amount of water started dripping from the dryer vent on the door. Looked online for help and identified the issue as having a clogged drain hose on the drying sistem. I fixed the issue by blowing an air can through the hose.  A ball of paper gunk came out (I guess we washed something with the labels on).\nThe mounting brackets are flimsy and I have had to replace them because they failed (bended and cracked) with regular use. I finally decided to reinforce them with a thin metal plate.\nThe washing racks are severely corroded after 6 years of use. The corners and other parts are just falling apart.\n\nThese are all issues that I would consider unacceptable for a $500 dishwasher with 6 years of use. Based on my bad experience with my cooking range (bad knobs) and the issues with the dishwasher I will not buy LG appliances again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1843, "id": 56594, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1844, "id": 101594, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 322, "text": "Steer clear of Maytag, they have a VERY POOR product, and zero customer service. This is a company that DOES NOT stand behind their product, they use loop holes and play games with their customers. We purchased our Maytag dishwasher delivered and installed on 12-3. On 12-6 in the afternoon it stopped working, after looking in the user manual it was determined that service was needed on it...after 2  days and 3 wash loads. My husband called the store we purchased from and they tried bending over backward to get us a replacement but called back and told us that here hands were tied by Maytag's policies, we were informed that Maytag has a 48 hour return window and that we were just HOURS outside of that and were told to call and explain to Maytag that we were UNABLE to call last night. We called Maytag and they did not care. I was passed to 3 different people including a supervisor who would only say that they could send out a technician on FRIDAY. We purchased a $500 dishwasher that worked for 2 days and now we are stuck without one. I had to hold my ground very stubbornly and DEMAND that she call the technicians in our area to get us fit in so that we were not without this much needed appliance for 3 days. She finally got a hold of someone who said he will be out tomorrow. We are EXTREMELY angered, disappointed and frustrated with the pure lack of customer service on Maytag behalf.  Think twice before purchasing Whirlpool or Maytag!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1845, "id": 274794, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 265, "len_tokens": 329, "text": "Very high-quality hood. Basically a PRO-LINE for about 1/2 the price. I have had it for 5 mos now. We're a packed Asian family, so we cook ALL the time and 3 times a day. And our food stinks (well actually it's quite good just stinks to cook). I have used and replaced the venthood in our old home w/ a big box store product (their top of the line) and it was not nearly as effective as this hood.\n\nThe 900 CFM allows me to use a WOK inside the house and not smell like dinner for the next couple of weeks. You do have to crack a window open given the high air volume being removed from the inside of the house (else you can backdraft your furnace's CO2... not good). Haven't gotten around to installing a makeup air system yet.\n\nInstall was fairly easy for me, but I have all the tools and a lot of experience doing house repairs.\n1. Small jack to lift the thing up and hold it in place\n2. 12 inch extension w/ a power drill w/ LED lights to mount it\n3. 3/4 plywood scraps (3/4 x 2in x 10in) to level out the bottom of the cabinet\n\nDO NOT use duct reducers. Basically limiting the effectiveness of the unit and not getting the max 900 CFM (which is why you would buy this in the first place). Relatively quieter than most other vents. Very easy to clean and keep clean (I use my power washer to clean the fans and grills).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1846, "id": 485144, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 301, "len_tokens": 360, "text": "This beverage cooler is exactly what it says it is and does exactly what it says it will do.  Some reviewers and purchasers are confusing this product with a refrigerator.  If you want something to get your beverages below 40 degrees fahrenheit then this is not the product for you.  It is not meant to be used outside.  If you use this in the way it is intended it is a 4 star product.  The reason I only give it 4 stars and not 5 is I wish it had an easier to access thermostat knob.  To be clear it is not difficult to access it, it is just difficult in my setup.\nThis beverage cooler holds everything I need it to and more.  It does not jack up the electric bill.  It provides cool beverages every time I open the door.  For someone looking for a really cold, almost ice, beverage, this is not for you.  This is akin to a wine cooler that you would use to get things between 38-45 degrees Fahrenheit.  This will get your canned drinks cooler than bottled, which is exactly how conduction works.  This will get your bottles to a pleasant 37-40 degrees.\nOne word of caution, do not overfill and do not put anything against the back wall.  This will do two things for you.  One, it will allow for air flow throughout the cooler at a normal rate, causing the cooler to get cooler faster.  Two, it will allow the compressor to work smarter and not come on as often, which will make this cooler last longer.  As I have only had mine for a month at the time of posting I can not speak to its longevity, but I can speak to it doing exactly what it says it will do.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1847, "id": 214316, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 302, "len_tokens": 358, "text": "I got this because I was too depressed to go to the laundromat. The fuse blew. I called them and they sent me another. I put the fuse in. It worked for a little while then blew again. I called them and ordered two fuses in anticipation of future blowouts. They had real trouble sending two. Apparently sending two fuses instead of one was a major trial that they were completely unequipped to handle. Finally after two customer service calls to ask them why I had not received the fuses yet, I got the fuses six weeks after I ordered them. I unscrewed the 15 screws on the back of the thing and installed one of the new fuses. The dryer ran for about 15 minutes and stopped working. It was the middle of winter and the room where I had the dryer was freezing cold, and I was depressed, and I bought a drying rack to dry laundry in my kitchen. The idea of getting a dryer was so that in the middle of winter I would not have to haul my depressed ass through the snow to the laundromat. Spring came and I installed the second of the fuses. It didn't work at all. What a waste of time, money, etc. Please, if you know of a reliable electric dryer, please post the name of it in the comments so that I can have this modern convenience in my apartment.\n\nAlso, cleaning the lint filters on this thing really blows. I resorted to vacuuming them with a vacuum cleaner because the method they recommend, brushing the lint off, is ridiculously ineffective. And it just blows to unscrew all of those screws, put the fuse in, screw them all back on, and have the fuse blow again after a few minutes.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1848, "id": 538672, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 285, "len_tokens": 326, "text": "It's a great refrigerator, I had to switch the doors' side from left opening to right-hand opening, and had a good friend do it for me, and between the two of us we managed to solve that problem on our own. The refrigerator is keeping items in the freezer perfectly cold, and after leaving the adjustment on high for 24 hours, as the directions said to do, it was freezing ice just fine in trays.\nThe delivery company was a problem, as it was six days late after the first delivery date was passed by with no explanation. I kept having to make calls to the trucking company to find out what was going on. They got it to me within ten days after I first ordered it from NYC to near the panhandle of Florida. Not too bad! The delivery men could not get the refrigerator through the door and insisted on leaving it outside, as they were getting behind on their delivery schedules. Within five minutes on my own, I took down a rail on my steps, then the door opened wide enough. I had to get the same friend to help me get it up my back steps with his dolly, which presented it's own problems when one of the steps broke. However, we managed to get it into the house, plugged it in and within five minutes my new refrigerator started the compressor. I love this Frigidaire, and it was the delivery company with the issues.\nThis new refrigerator is quite a bit larger than my old refrigerator, which I am very glad for, and it as easy to set up, after we got it in the house. Thank you Amazon!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1849, "id": 87702, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1850, "id": 88266, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1851, "id": 466237, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 255, "len_tokens": 308, "text": "The design on our model is just plain stupid. The latch is designed to be tight, but their is no latch release mechanism. The designed way to open the latch is to pull hard. How hard? According to my fish scale, it takes 23 pounds (!) of pull to open the door.\n\nOn top of that, the handle on which you're pulling is held on by two plastic tabs which are each 1 inch wide and no more than 1/16th of an inch thick. They're bound to break, and when they do, all of the buttons (which are only held in by the facia) fall out.\n\nSo of course we're just barely out of warranty, but after I explain the major design flaw (and learn that they've apparently changed the latch part for that model since then), they offer to replace the handle only, not the latch which might prevent the problem from recurring.\n\nTo make things worse, they agree its a problem and agree to cover only the parts. That's fine because it would take me 10 minutes to change it (I've already had to disassemble and reassemble twice -- once to diagnose and try to reglue and once to take pictures to send to customer service agent) as opposed to all the time involved in waiting for a repairman. BUT WAIT, they'll only pay for the parts if I pay to have them installed by an authorized service provider. Yes, they'll send me the $45 part if I pay $85+ to have it installed.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1852, "id": 458179, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 295, "len_tokens": 366, "text": "This is a great basic range.  Produces more heat than others in its price range. Available for $339 and up. Oven racks are lovely heavier weight steel which glide smoothly.\n\nCareful of the double hinge double spring tensions doors.  It will snap shut and hurt fingers so beware.  Some complain about cleaning porcelain ranges of this type well do I have help for you. Use FORMULA 420.  Non toxic.  No sickening perfume.  Gentle on hands and WORKS.  Shake well.  Squeeze on the pretty sea blue gritty liquid and leave to set while you do your nails or place dishes in dishwasher and with a cloth, non scratch tuffy kind of pad or even BRILLO (if burnt on is that bad) everything comes off easily.  I bought Formula 420 for Pyrex and just had it sitting here.  It didn't do diddly for burnt up Pyrex but does wonders on a stove top and you can't hide a thing with a white range.\n\nNice graphics by each knob tell you which are FRONT  BACK and believe you me that matters since manufacturers are not standardizing on placement, you can get quite the arm burn if you came from a stove where the leftmost knob is for the front.  You arm is OVER the front burner as you reach to put a pot on the back as you turn the second left most knob and WHOOSH, it is *that* knob that is for the FRONT and you've lit a big fire under your arm!  So PAY ATTENTION TO THAT GRAPHIC until you have placement memorized (to care for elderly or children REMOVE THE KNOBS that operate the front burners altogether).\n\nI'll add photos of this range front graphic soon.  Don't know why sellers have no close ups.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1853, "id": 87166, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1854, "id": 398952, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 246, "len_tokens": 368, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R13KMUMHP6B9JJ\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1eeWzFLVgS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71yowBg9OtS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;I absolutely love the idea of this machine and purchased it as a gift for an elderly family member. It worked fabulously for a short time and then the ice machine started shutting itself off. If I powered down the water cooler and then plug it back in, the ice machine would start up again  and work for a while. This happened several times and then it stopped working except for one cycle after turning the machine off and then back on. At this point, it will do one cycle of ice which equals one cup, And then stop making the ice again.  I attached a video  of what keeps happening. I have restarted the cycle again and will hopefully get one more cup of ice until it stops and just let it melt again also. And when I say it is allowing it to melt, I do not mean in the normal fashion in which it reuses the water to make new ice. It simply will not make another round of ice after the one.\n\n The idea behind this is great and I almost purchased a second for myself, but now I'm glad I didn't. Please be aware\n\n update, the machine now powers itself on and off and will be off for days. Everything about this machine and it's functioning appears to be random and I have yet to find a resolution.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1855, "id": 404531, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 306, "len_tokens": 389, "text": "Who do I contact about the 1 year warranty?  I purchased this on September 1, 2016, for my mother that lives in assisted living, so she'd have ice handy in her apartment at anytime since she drinks ice water all day long. About a month ago, she told me it was getting mold and/or rust in it, so I checked it out and the little filter cover (inside the machine on the bottom right) was turning black. I removed the cover and cleaned it as well as possible. However, I noticed that the metal pieces up top in the back seem to be discolored and possibly rusting. I emailed Onebigoutlet to find out about the warranty because the link for the warranty info on their product page does not work; however, I have not received a response. I have attached a photo of the back metal pieces. Unfortunately, I forgot to take one of the mildew before I cleaned it.\n\nUPDATE: Still no response from Onebigoutlet. Shame on you and your customer service, Onebigoutlet!  Last and only time I will ever order anything from them!!  I looked on the Della.com website and was attempting to find a manual in hopes of finding out how to resolve the mildew and rust problems. I click on the manual for model 048-GM-48183 and a hot air fryer manual comes up. ???  I call Della at 909-595-5901, and they tell me if the item is bought on Amazon they only give a THREE MONTH warranty and not the typical 1 year!! I ask about the manual and they pull it up and to their surprise, they get the air fryer warranty as well....  They say they will call or email me when they find the correct manual.  We shall see, I guess.  I'll update more if/when I hear back from them!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1856, "id": 151743, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 248, "len_tokens": 322, "text": "Our Whirlpool Duet washer was constantly leaking, so I ordered this part on the assumption the bellow was leaking.  And actually, there were a couple of holes punched in the old bellow but I had previously sealed those up with 100% silicone and it appeared to still be holding tight.  Still, I went ahead and replaced the bellows.\n\nIt wasn't until after I had replaced bellow, that I noticed the drain clean-out access cover inside the lower panel.  I opened the drain catch and was surprised to learn it was completely filled with junk (shoestrings, pencils, pens, several dollars in change, lint, you-name-it).  It is very likely the leak was due to the drain pump not being able to completely empty the washer because of all the debris.  We had never cleaned this out in 8 years of heavy use.\n\nSo, before ordering a new bellows, I would highly recommend you clean out your drain catch first and see if that fixes your leak problem; just search \"Whirlpool Duet drain catch\" on YouTube should give you a nice demonstration of how to access, remove and clean out the drain catch.\n\nAdditional Note (11/24/2016):  Another possible cause of leaking, independent of the bellow, is having a sock get  down below bellow edge  and blocking drain holes; you can check by flexing the front bottom of the existing bellow towards the outside of washer, there you will see 3-4 small pencil-diameter drain holes; make sure these aren't blocked.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1857, "id": 523807, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 297, "len_tokens": 348, "text": "I purchased this assembly from Amazon because my old one wouldn't attach to the faucet very well anymore, and the faucet connection leaked.  The old one had lasted for many years, so I saw this as normal maintenance.  I was not disappointed with the old one, which was the factory original.\n\nI'm not disappointed with this new one, either.  It came in the box exactly as advertised.  The Amazon price was slightly higher than some other prices I had found on line, but I'd rather deal with a known vendor with a great reputation, great return policy, and free shipping.  All I had to do was place the order, and my credit card account was already set up to make the payment.\n\nIt was challenging to find the right way to open up my dishwasher to install the new unit, but it wasn't difficult.  I just kept trying.  When I finally got access to the right area, it was very simple to take out the old unit and install the new one.  I made sure my connections were tight but not too tight so as to damage the connections.  When the new unit was installed it connected easily to the faucet.  I pressure tested the new assembly and found no leaks.  Putting the dishwasher panels back in place was difficult, and I finally got a neighbor to help.  He provided an extra pair of hands and I was able to finish the reassembly without too much difficulty.\n\nI ran the dishwasher through a regular washing cycle, and the new unit performed perfectly.  There were no leaks at the time, and there have been no leaks since then.  I am very pleased with my purchase, and would recommend buying this assembly from Amazon to anybody who needs one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1858, "id": 458581, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 274, "len_tokens": 315, "text": "Purchased this dishwasher in 2009 from the the Home Depot. The dishwasher has done a good job washing and dying the dishes so we have not experienced the issues other people have commented about.\n\nMy main gripes about the dishwasher:\nWe intermittently received the OE error that corresponded to dishwasher not emptying water. After lots of troubleshooting I discovered the problem was with gunk getting stuck on a float that detects the water level in the tub. The dishwasher was draining fine but the float was not moving giving a wrong reading to the computer. The fix requires that you disassemble the plastic levels on the left side of the unit and clean them well.\nWe had an incident were significant amount of water started dripping from the dryer vent on the door. Looked online for help and identified the issue as having a clogged drain hose on the drying sistem. I fixed the issue by blowing an air can through the hose.  A ball of paper gunk came out (I guess we washed something with the labels on).\nThe mounting brackets are flimsy and I have had to replace them because they failed (bended and cracked) with regular use. I finally decided to reinforce them with a thin metal plate.\nThe washing racks are severely corroded after 6 years of use. The corners and other parts are just falling apart.\n\nThese are all issues that I would consider unacceptable for a $500 dishwasher with 6 years of use. Based on my bad experience with my cooking range (bad knobs) and the issues with the dishwasher I will not buy LG appliances again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1859, "id": 220286, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 296, "len_tokens": 363, "text": "My 5 month old washing machine was making terrible noise and drum not spinning.  Called customer service and had repair service set up.  Not only was the time they gave me incorrect, but a completely different company came out than what I was told.  Upon looking at the unit, the technician found that the pulley had come loose allowing the belt to BURN HOLES through the back of the drum.  The unit was actually leaking water out the back without us knowing.  Needs the pulley, belt, bolt, drum, and basket all replaced.  Basically everything except the motor.  Total cost of repair is $880.  Now it is under warranty and only 5 months old, so you would think they would just replace the 5 month old unit.  Called customer service back, and nope, they are going to do the the repair instead.  Talked to corporate customer service and they said they will not replace anything that can be repaired.  When I told them I would be posting my experience on Social Media and review sites, they said, \"we don't care\".  Now I have to wait 2 weeks for them to get the parts to the technician and be stuck with my \"unusable\" expensive 5 month old washing machine.  I will never purchase this brand again based on their lack of customer service and poor workmanship of the product.\n\nSo even though the company \"doesn't care\" about the negative reviews, I am strongly urging everyone to stay aware from this product and the brand name in general due to my customer service experience.  Those of you who are still feeling excited about how this product looks and works while it's new, keep your fingers crossed.  That feeling sinks very quickly when you have to call for warranty service...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1860, "id": 52538, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 275, "len_tokens": 330, "text": "We purchased the Whirlpool Sport Duet,3 years ago, having been satisfied with other Whirlpool appliances. We installed the combo in an infrequently used vacation home. We noticed immediately that it took much longer for clothes to wash and that the capacity was diminished compared to our home Whirlpool Cabrio top loader but adequate for its location.  Then 3 mos ago the washer suddenly stopped doing the fast spin cycle at the end.  We got the dealer repairman to come an fix it..He called in for assistance and then ran a diagnostic on the machine and suddenly the computer board \"short circuited\" or burned out and the machine went dead.  The repairman called for assistance again and reported that the complete repair would cost $580.00. The current unsuccessful service call cost $110 paid immediately. He did suggest that I call Whirlpool customer service to see if I could get a better deal on the electronic component that could cut the cost by 20%. He stated that the customer complaining could sometime result in a cost saving that the dealer repair department could not get.  So I called Whirlpool customer service and asked if there might a manufacturing defect with this model that they were aware of a might provide some extended warranty to cover such a costly repair. The customer service rep informed me that they could only deal with the dealer repair service dept and might provide up to 20% discount on parts. So there we are, a relatively mediocre new machine with nearly $700.00 repair needed. Never ever consider a front loader machine again.  This machine will most likely have to be junked.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1861, "id": 126373, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 278, "len_tokens": 336, "text": "After watching a demo of this thing on youtube, I had to have one. It seemed too good to be true. All I've ever wanted it to be able to blow dry with a round brush and not wind up with carpal tunnel and quivering trapezius muscles in my shoulder region. I just don't have the patience for it. My fine straight hair is usually cut into a chin length bob for this reason. Styling long hair seems to be a full time job and I already have one of those.\n\nSo as I said, I got me one of these things and I am here to say it is the Beginning and the End of hair styling tools. Minimal effort for maximum results. You barely have to do anything. Just hold the thing in the general direction of your hair and it does the rest. Not only does it make the hair behave like it just returned from an extended stay at West Point, but it makes it SUPERSHINY too. And the way the hair MOVES--it's just indescribable.\n\nI've discovered that if you pair it with mousse, like put the mousse on your wet hair and then use the Tool, it gets even better. The results last several days. Like, I WAKE UP WITH PERFECT HAIR. No exaggeration.\n\nSo that's my two cents, but keep in mind my hair is fine and straight. The bristles on this thing are a bit soft. Which is ideal for me, but if your hair is very course I'm not sure it would work as well.\n\nI can't wait to grow my hair long now that I have the Tool. Seriously.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1862, "id": 393140, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 214, "len_tokens": 350, "text": "These filters replace my Whirlpool 4396701 filter just fine, note when I installed this filter into the bottom front of my Refrigerator, I took the round handle on to the end of the old filter off, then slid the cap onto this new one. Inserted the filter into the bottom location. When I turned the knob clockwise the filter was in and seated properly but the handle does not line up horizontally with the front grill, you do not want to force or tighten it further as this would damage the connection inside the refrigerator.  The coupling on the front of these filters are not lined up the same as my original Whirlpool filter, the caps on the back end are off by a few degrees. The filters do work and for the price I payed $20.99 for a three pack plus free shipping this is more than the price of just One Whirlpool 4396701 filter, I am satisfied.\nI am adding a picture so you can see what I mean by not being lined up with the grill.&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Icepure-RWF2000A-3-Pack-Refrigerator-Water-Filter-Compatible-With-Whirlpool-4396701-4396702-KENMORE-469915/dp/B016PYUSME/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Icepure RWF2000A-3 Pack Refrigerator Water Filter Compatible With Whirlpool 4396701 4396702 KENMORE 469915</a>&nbsp;If you just care about filtered water and Ice and don't care what it looks like this is for you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1863, "id": 469721, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 285, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "Talk about the persistence of advertising, I recalled the old \"Maytag man\" commercials that caused me to start looking at Maytags... Bought this with a Maytag MVWC300XW washer to replace a 30 year old Whirlpool set, the washer having died inconveniently with a tub full of water.\n\nLIKE:  Good reviews.  It is very quiet, simple to operate, large capacity, lightweight and nicely styled.  It is a bit deeper than the unit it replaced, so am researching alternate venting methods to be able to close the doors on the washer/dryer closet.\n\nThe \"cycle finished\" buzzer sounds like the dive klaxon from a WWII submarine. If a load wrinkles from siting too long, I can't claim \"I didn't hear it\" ;) Fortunately, it can be selected ON or OFF...  HINT:  If you put a dryer load in just before going to bed, suggest you turn the alarm OFF  :D\n\nDON'T LIKE:  The side opening door (can swap from RH to LH opening in about 15 minutes, but I much prefer a bottom hinged door... from what I could find, that option has been discontinued in mid priced lines (too many extra parts?).\n\nCompared to the old units, it is nicely finished, but seems pretty flimsy; (thin sheet metal, lotsa plastic used - guess that's one way to reduce weight, but plastic parts have this nasty \"Murphy's Law\" habit of breaking, usually at the worst time).  Having recently bought a 2011 car, light and plastic seem to be the norm...\n\nOverall, I like the unit and hope the Maytag Man will continue to be the loneliest guy in the world....\n\nEDIT - 2 years of weekly use, still working as it was when purchased... no complaints", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1864, "id": 66815, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 287, "len_tokens": 327, "text": "Overall I like the the cleaning system, but next time I would do it a little slower and sooner. I had not cleaned the dryer vent since it was installed over eight years ago, and should have done it at least once a year. I had about a 20' run with two elbows. Because there was so much lint, apparently the shop vac did not suck all the lint out and caused a big build up at the first elbow, which I did not realize. I used a 19 volt drill and started on the outside with the shop vac inside. When I put some pressure on the drill, the shaft twisted like a pretzel. I was able to stop right away, but had I not, it would have ripped the duct. I was able to slowly untwist the shaft by hand and pull it out. I could not reverse the drill because the shaft would ripped the duct and might have detached at the various extensions even though I had used duct tape. I figured it twisted because I had such a long run to the first elbow. I then started on the inside with the vaccum outside. As soon as I reached that same elbow, the shaft twisted like a pretzel again. I turned on the dryer and noticed no air was going through. I then used a leaf blower from the inside to force the blockage out. The ball of lint was fairly large and compact, and wet too, and that was probably why it didn't get sucked out. After that, I ran the brush thru again and the vent pipe looked spotless. Next time I will clean it at least once a year!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1865, "id": 515666, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 257, "len_tokens": 303, "text": "My Samsung washing machine from around 2009 (WF210ANW) had been giving me the ND (no drain) error code intermittently, but finally completely stopped draining. It was making a slight buzz when attempting to drain, but no action. After doing some googling, it looked like I might be able to fix it by swapping out the drain pump. I assume this is why you are here.\n\n- Took about an hour in all. I took it apart while waiting for the part to split the work up into two nights. Make sure you've got towels... there will likely be some water coming out as you get to the drain pump.\n- Some reviews state that the existing motor cowling did not fit onto the new motor. At least for my model, it fit perfectly. Perhaps the manufacturer of this particular motor has made some changes to accommodate.\n- Some reviews stated that they were able to go in from the back just popping off the two screws and access panel. At least on my model, I did have to take the whole front of the machine off. This is less daunting than it seems, everything aligns back together and is fairly straightforward. Just watch some of the youtube videos.\n- Make sure you seat the rubber \"peg\" on the motor housing/assembly firmly into the slot or your motor might vibrate a bit when it fires.\n\nDefinitely recommend trying this if you're getting the ND error code, worth the $20 to avoid having to buy a whole new washer!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1866, "id": 53300, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 297, "len_tokens": 343, "text": "After having to replace the microwave hood, we decided to find an alternative that did not obstruct the space above the range as much.  We researched many of the  products available at the big box stores and were not terribly impressed with selection.  We were looking for something with 400 + CFM and that had a relatively low profile.  Until my wife found this product, I had never heard of Zephyr but was drawn to the design of the hood and its advertised capabilities.  After receiving the product I was impressed with the relative construction of the exterior and was quite pleased to see the high quality of the mechanical components within.  I had already primed myself for a tough installation after reading the reviews so rather than trying to perform adjustments and fitting on the wall, I removed the top cabinet (mostly because I had to realign the opening for the duct work) and pre-fitted the two components on a table.  I also changed the installation hardware and went with 2.5\" machine screws fitted with the largest washers I could manage in the spaces.  Doing this ahead of time made the actual mounting process a 15 minute chore.  In summary, take you time with the installation but be prepared pull out your extra long screw drivers and definitely secure an extra pair of hands.\nFunctionality is great but please note that moving that much air also creates some noise at the higher speeds.  The hood is definitely capable of doing the job and I can't see using the higher speeds for the average meal. The controls are very easy to use and they do not feel cheap like some of the others I have sampled at the store.  Overall we are very impressed with the product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1867, "id": 402439, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 265, "len_tokens": 321, "text": "My husband and I live in a tiny 3rd floor apartment with coin op laundry in the basement.  When I bought this, he thought it was absurd, now he loves it as much as I do! We have a tiny bathroom, and this baby fits right in it!\n\nWe've had it for a few months, and have done 200+ loads in that time. Still going strong! We routinely stuff it completely full and it amazes me what this thing can handle- queen sized blankets, winter jackets, even a down pillow.  It gets our laundry significantly cleaner than the washer in the basement - I've gotten out so many stains I thought were permanent!  My husband tends to stain his white t shirts, and I love being able to wash something several times in hot water without having to throw in $3 in quarters every time.  I can wash super gross stuff separately,  and I've even tried dying fabrics in this machine- works like a charm, and way easier than a regular machine or hand dying.\n\nSome down sides- we use buckets to fill and empty it, and if you want a rinse cycle, thst means refilling it by hand. It has a tiny hose you can use to fill it, but it takes forever. It also drains via gravity, so the bucket has to be below the machine for it to empty completely.  Our bathroom has a step, so it works for us.\n\nSeriously though,  if this thing died tomorrow,  I'd buy another one in a heartbeat. It's a life changer for an apartment dweller!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1868, "id": 361791, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 295, "len_tokens": 341, "text": "I've had it about two months and just love it so far. I have washed king size sheets and comforter with this washer which surprised me that they fit. I am 6'1\" and I can do 3 pair of my jeans in it as one load.  You can get a decent amount of whites with a few towels in as a load also. While it is not a full sized washer and you won't be doing large loads I'd say you should be able to wash anything that you need to in it within reason. My personal feeling is that it would take care of two adults and probably two small children well.\n\nnotes: I didn't purchase mine through Amazon although I purchase quite a lot through them. Instead I got it at wallyworld in case I had to take it back with minimal hassle. Had it shipped to the store. The unit did arrive with some damage to the plastic near the top of the tub. I had read extensively about this though and expected it. The small bits of cracked plastic has not affected the functionality of the washer, which is all I cared about anyway.\n\nadditional: Two years ago I became one of those people that decided to go the tiny home approach. One of the few things I regretted about it was laundry. I just don't like public laundry facilities and the hassle of dragging my clothes there. So after two years I stumbled across this. After much reading about the 1.5 cu ft and 1.0 cu ft units I decided on the 1.5 cu ft washer. No regrets. If you are looking for a small washer that you can hook up to a sink and roll around look no further.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1869, "id": 546244, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 321, "text": "We have had this range for just over 2 years and it has just been declared unsafe to use by the service technician.  This range has been nothing but trouble with the controller unit having been replaced twice and the fans have been replaced 3 times.  It most recently shorted out when the fans jammed and caused some fire, luckily we shut it off before it did any damage to the house, but you can see where the fire was when you take the back off the range.  Also, there was a lot of oil and some grease in the insulation and since we regularly cleaned this oven I can only surmise that the interior of the oven was not well sealed at the factory.  Thee is no other way for oil to have gotten into the insulation.  Avoid this thing at all costs.  Also, the dual oven isn't really a dual oven option.  The plate that you insert to separate the ovens only allows for a 100 degree difference in temperatures between the two \"ovens\" and the upper \"oven\" only uses the broiler unit and so burns the tops of things like pies and cakes while the bottom remains underdone.  The bottom oven does have the bottom heat and is an oven but has no broiler unit.  Basically, you can \"roast\" in the top oven and \"bake\" in the bottom one.  Don't even try to cook a holiday dinner in this thing using both.  We eventually just tossed the insert and use it only as one large oven.  Well, we did before it caught fire...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1870, "id": 61370, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 284, "len_tokens": 351, "text": "Looks are not everything.  Thank God we don't cook on this thing daily..... (Replacement knobs get expensive)\n\nThe next time we go looking for a range, believe me I'm taking the time to investigate every review out  there..... Sorry GE this range is not so \"hot\".\nThe Oven Temperature is off by about 20 degrees.... Sure easy enough call a service guy !!..... Really ?\n\nNext thing we know the Burner Control Knobs start breaking (GE # 222D1387) Cheaply made ABS Plastic that has been Chrome plated & burnished to look like Brushed Stainless Steel.\nThese Knobs have the usual \"D\" in them and the stress point is right where the flat intersects the radius. They crack here and soon become unserviceable.\nI have put a couple of pieces of Heat shrink tubing over this \"stress spot\" and it seems to hold together OK.\nSince we are not cooking daily on this thing a patch should suffice (long enough to sell the range along with the house).\n\nMaybe GE has addressed this problem, maybe not...So If you are out there looking at Ranges,  Read the Reviews, and TRY THE KNOBS  !! .....Go ahead .... Try to break one in the show room.... (If it is one of these ranges it won't be hard to do)\nYou could be doing yourself and someone else a favor by exposing this fault.\n\nYou have to believe that GE could come up with a Knob that works for an appliances \"life time\" (they used to and that often was the customers life time as well).  GE.... Bring back the quality....\nCome on GE we really want you to be better than this...\n\nDisappointed Customer / Stockholder / American.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1871, "id": 483466, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 333, "len_tokens": 389, "text": "We purchased this dryer in late fall 2009. Within 30 days it no longer worked. We tried to get it replaced, but they stated they neeeded to attempt to fix it first. That seemed reasonable, except that the dryer was a lemon. Lemon laws require that the exact same part be replaced 4 times before they will give a new dryer, so the Maytag people said, \"yes, it is likely the part will go bad again, but we don't know that it does, so until it fails 4 times within one 12 month cycle, there's nothing we can do.\"\n\nAt the end of the 12 month cycle, it hadn't failed 4 times, so I purchased the extended warranty plan. I attempted to escalate the issue within Maytag and I probably got as high as a supervisor level when she told me she would not allow me to speak to anyone higher than her and hung up.\n\nI went to Sears where I purchased this item and was told that Sears does not warranty any Maytag products and that attempting to resolve this with Sears would get me nowhere. Further, I was told that in days past of the bored Maytag repairman, Maytag's quality was way down and that is the reason Sears no longer warranties the product.\n\nSo after 2 years and probably 20 visits from repairmen (they come the first time to assess the problem then take about a week or so to get the part and come back and install the part), and with a dryer classified as a fire hazard, I have finally had the same part fail 4 times, and the extended service plan says they will pay me a cash out value of $320, as you can see no where near the amount paid or enable me to get an equivalent replacement. The amount of headache has been at least as great as the purchase value. Good luck with your dryer purchase, just steer clear of this one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1872, "id": 284504, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 291, "len_tokens": 330, "text": "So I have had this about a week, and so far everything is fine.  I keep the ice maker on the \"large\" setting which makes what I would call a medium chunk of ice.  A bullet shape maybe a little more than an inch long and a little less than an inch in diameter.\n\nThe ice comes out pretty quickly, especially if you leave the machine on.  As it cycles water through the machine, the water in the reserve tank gets colder and colder and takes less time to make ice.  So - once up and running it makes ice faster than I need for someone that drinks ice water all day long.\n\nIt is pretty loud.  It has a small compressor and a fan, and both are pretty loud.  I use it in my office, and not a lot of noise escapes the door, but I need to turn it off if someone comes in to chat.  It would be impossible to use in a cubicle.\n\nThe instructions recommend using either lemon juice or vinegar to clean the machine for several cycles.  I recommend vinegar unless you want to clean a lot of pulp out of the machine.  Maybe if you can strain the pulp it would be better.  That said - the hint of lemon for a few cycles after cleaning is probably more pleasing than a hint of vinegar.\n\nNow - many cycles in the ice tastes like ice should - which is no taste at all.  At no time did it have a chemical taste - but I did throw out the first several cycles during cleaning.\n\nI use filtered tap water from the water dispenser in the office, and the ice is fairly clear and tasteless.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1873, "id": 494980, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 325, "len_tokens": 380, "text": "When this was installed in our new kitchen I would have given it 5 stars! It is a thing of beauty. It worked like a dream for almost 3 months then the nightmares began. The burners on the stove top are great, but the oven just won't light. The igniters spark like crazy but no fire. Customer service is horrible. They promise but never return calls, you will be on hold for ever. They don't have their own service team and it is impossible to find a repair team on your own that will service this brand. It took 8 weeks before a technician finally came out then another 2 weeks to get the part from Bertazzoni even tho they \"over-nighted it\". The oven worked for exactly 2 weeks and then the same part went out again. This time they were willing to send the part directly to the service person and it only took 10 days. The oven worked exactly twice and went out again. Customer service has determined that we are obviously idiots and must be turning the knob incorrectly, so they are sending the repair guy out for the 4th time and he can call them and intelligently diagnose the true issue. I cook for a family of 8. I'm pretty sure I know how to operate a gas stove. We looked up reviews for this unit and there are hundreds of others with this same problem. Nice to look at but you don't want to own one. 60% of the reviews were 1 or 2 stars. Only 23% were 5 stars and they were always people who had just gotten the unit and hadn't used it yet. At this point I want someone to haul this thing off so I can buy a new range and break clean!!! Anyone on here that is thinking about buying this unit, come to Texas and you can HAVE the one we bought in January.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1874, "id": 444363, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 309, "len_tokens": 343, "text": "I was excited about this unit as it claims to cool to 30 degrees where as most units this size only cool to 45 or so (like magic chef models). I paid for Saturday shipping so I could have the unit rest and set up for Sunday game day. The unit arrived damaged. The box was not damaged in any way but it had a dent so bad that it formed a crease in the metal in the top top side as well as a dent at the bottom right. Ordered a replacement through Amazon website, a super simple and awesome experience. The UPS guy dropped off the second unit and picked up the first. Box was not damaged however the unit was in the exact same spots (just not as bad as the first). This time I called customer service, they said they would pull the link and conduct an interview and contact me back. I got confirmation that it would take 7 business days for the review only I was never contacted back. I called a second time and the service rep explained that since the link is back on the site, the investigation did not find anything. No explanation for the issue. If UPS caused the damage then how could they do so without damaging the box? The unit is packed in a double box. Black foam guards all corners of the inner box. The unit itself has a thin amount of styro-foam all the way around. IMO not enough packing material but I don't think this is really to blame for my problem since the box was not damaged. I asked for a refund because I didn't like the fact that there is no closure to this. There is clearly a problem, others have reported this. I will not purchase anything NewAir again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1875, "id": 346464, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 308, "len_tokens": 394, "text": "As a few have mentioned, it's not a heavy duty complicated looking apparatus.  It looks like something you would take to the beach and put shells in.  But I just wanted it to work and I was pleasantly surprised.  I just did my first load... some white undergarments.  They came out RESPLENDENTLY white and I could not be happier!  However, here's what I've learned so far:\n\nTip #1 - The lid REALLY does not fit tightly on top.  With it \"locked\", you can't get in but water can DEFINITELY get out.\n\nTip #2 - When the instructions say \"fill\" the bucket with water...don't you do it!  Make your loads small and do NOT fill water up to the top.  As a matter of fact, I'd say, don't go too much higher than halfway full.  I made the mistake of filling to about three inches from the tip... and TIDAL WAVES OF WATER came gushing out.  Which leads me to my next tip...\n\nTip #3 - Put towels around the unit to catch any water that leaks from the top during the cycle.\n\nTip #4 - (For aged, infirmed or just not very strong friends) Whereever you fill the bucket, plan on doing your wash very close by - since the bucket with laundry and liquid is very heavy.\n\nSo far this is all I know.  For the price, I feel like I got a nice alternative to hand washing.  It remains to be seen just how much this little machine will keep me from the laundromat (which is why I bought it).  I'm thinking, it will probably depend on me and how often I can make myself do little loads... or else take out a whole day to do several in a row.\n\nBut I'll make it work.  For the price, I think it was/is worth it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1876, "id": 352547, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 247, "len_tokens": 300, "text": "What a fantastic idea, just moved into apartment and of coarse fridge does not have ice maker. No problem get one of these pipe it in and voila ice by the pound.  Worked great day one, ice and scotch what more could you want. Day two more ice and a trip to home depot for the ice maker tee to come of my cold water supply. Day three ice as far as the eye can see, must tie down plastic water lines they are banging up a storm (water hammer). Day 4 one big huge ICE BLOCK, won't eject just getting bigger and bigger. E-mailed Whynter got case number day 5, sent them more info. Day 6 Got response, view pdf's to check for loose wires, no pdf attached. Day 7 ask for serial number and Invoice, email immediately pdf and jpeg. Day 8 email received with pdf and instruction to check for loose wires, nothing all is tight, responded that could not find any wire issues. Day 9 Nothing. Day 10 asked to resend serial and invoice. Day 11 Nothing. Day 12, either send back to them (in CA me MA) to repair or send back to Seller. It's going back but guess the first shipment I received was a Cat Scratching Pole, and the replacement shipment is the only one I can print a label from. It also says my credit will be zero. Boy I could use that Cat Scratching Pole right now.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1877, "id": 463167, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 294, "len_tokens": 360, "text": "I bought this washing machine a few years back. It started failing right after warranty,\nfailing with \"out of balance\" errors. I called a repairman given to me by LG service, and\nhe told me that he had tried to repair these machines before, and they didn't get better.\nI called LG and asked for a factory service repairman this time.\n\nLG sent a LG factory repairman. He kept coming back each week for over a month, each time\nreplacing something different on the washer, but with no change. They even told me that it\nmight be my fault, that the floor wasn't \"stiff\" enough, despite the fact that it had worked\nfine for a year, and that I had previously had a front load washer in the same spot without\nissue for 10 years. I spent a lot to reinforce the floor, and the machine was no different.\n\nAt last, they told me they were giving up, they didn't know how to fix it. I have never had\nanyone tell me they didn't know how to fix their own product and were just giving up. They\ntold me they would \"buy it back\", for a sum prorated for the life of the washer since it\nwas out of warranty.\n\nThey picked up the unit. I have yet to see a dime from LG. Every week I call them and it is\nsomething else, the machine got shipped to the wrong place, the paperwork got misplaced, etc.\nI am convinced they are trying to slow pay it.\n\nI expected better from LG. This is a top of the line washer. It is also the last LG product\nI ever buy. Everything points to the machine being an inherent lemon.\n\nScott Moore\nSan Jose, CA", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1878, "id": 195855, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 263, "len_tokens": 301, "text": "This was a complete waste of time and money... we received it today and plugged it in using at first a standard wall socket and then a power strip, and it never started or worked. It just made a buzzing feeling inside the unit that you could hear if you put your ear up to the top  of it, but it never started to spin. We even tried numerous wall sockets and power strips all throughout the house, and nowhere did it work... our washing machine works, but this dryer does not even try to. We tried extension cords, three-pronged adapters, everything we had that would connect the unit to our wall sockets and power strips. Again... nothing. Every other appliance at our house works perfectly, so I have concluded that this unit must have arrived broken and therefore useless to anybody. What makes me so angry about this, is that we paid a LOT of money for this! Almost 300 dollars is not a small amount, and we have already contacted Amazon about seeing to a refund for us. I should HOPE we get a refund for this! There is a lot that we could do with almost 300 dollars, and wasting it on a dyer that arrived to our house broken is not one of those things. I do not know if the broken unit was the seller's fault or Federal Express's fault... I only know that it does not work and we cannot just be out that much money. That would be insane. I am awaiting our refund quite expectantly.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1879, "id": 516897, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 298, "len_tokens": 360, "text": "We bought and installed this refrigerator as part of a kitchen remodel and now that our refund is safely in the bank I can write a review on it.  The problems we had were:\n\n1) Design.  This was our first side by side refrigerator and will be our last.  There wasn't as much refrigerated room as our last frig and the layout of the refrigerated space wasn't very good.  The bottom 40% was taken up by 3 large draws when really 2 would have been sufficient.  We would have preferred more shelf space.\n\n2) Reliability.  We installed the refrigerator in late November and 5 months later both the refrigerator and freezer stopped cooling.  The compressor seemed to be running and there were no error lights on.  We tried adjusting the temperature and powering it down and up again but nothing worked.\n\n3) Service.  This was the worst part.  Samsung gave me a total run around even saying that the company I bought it from (Home Care Corporation) wasn't an authorized dealer so it wasn't under warranty.  Eventually Amazon interceded to settle that.  After the repairman they finally sent out couldn't fix the problem they agreed to refund the purchase price. Even then I had to send Samsung a form with pictures showing the cut power cord and the removed interior tags with the model and ID numbers.\n\nWe got the refund about a month after the frig broke down.  They said they would take it out but have yet to contact us.  We just paid $15 to have Home Depot take it out when they delivered our new one.  I wouldn't take any bets on the chance of getting that money from Samsung but then I also wouldn't take any bets on them getting more of my business.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1880, "id": 63504, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 252, "len_tokens": 315, "text": "All three replacement filters from FiltersFast exhibit issues.  Poor water flow and squeal from inside the fridge.  Replaced new filter with old one and all is fine.  New filters are different on the insert - old ones had one large hole with multiple tiny holes around it.  New ones have one large hole and two slotted holes on each side.  All three new ones are lousy.  Takes 45-60 seconds to fill a standard 8oz glass.  Not acceptable.  Called GE directly who said no change has been made to product line.  Bought two more in town, one from Sears, another from HH Gregg.  Both have the same design as the new ones from FiltersFast and are also lousy.\n\nI have resorted to using the filter plug in order to have decent water flow.  The filter design has obviously changed and either GE is not admitting to it or their representatives are ignorant to the change.\n\nI hate my fridge now and currently using a Brita pitcher filter on the counter top.  Neither Filtersfast, Sears or HH Gregg will accept a return.  I'm now a proud owner of six new filters, over $200 in cost, that won't work worth a flip.  Oh, and those of you who want to repeat what GE told me over the phone - yes, both the old filter with the tiny holes and the bypass plug work fine.  There is NO clog in the water line.  It's the lousy new filters that GE is pushing to all the vendors.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1881, "id": 508798, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 279, "len_tokens": 339, "text": "We love this range. There's something about the style, the ease of cleaning and the overall operation of this range that feels almost retro and more solid than any gas range I've owned. There are zero electronic panels, which I love because we live in a wooded, rural area and there are tons of power outages here which mess up ANY computerized panels and eventually kill them. This is very basic, electric starters for the burners and a standard \"glow coil\" for the oven. The entire thing is a joy to clean, no crevices and odd places that don't allow for easy cleaning. I don't know who designed this thing but it's a shame that GE has discontinued it's Artistry series. The only thing I'm taking away a star for is the clock. Two things about it seem a little off. The finish is chrome, but the handles and other accents are brushed steel, so it doesn't really match well. And the other, (which many other reviews elsewhere state) is how loud the clock is. It doesn't bother me and actually I've grown used to it, but there is a slight, low \"grinding\" noise that comes from it which sounds a little like tiny gears are grinding away which might get on the nerves of some people. Where I live is totally noise-free so it seems louder on a quiet day than normal. The white color has a blue cast to it, which doesn't necessarily match today's white cabinet styles well, so be sure and keep that in mind if you are doing a \"white kitchen\" look. It's a bit whiter/bluish look, the standard appliance white instead of cream.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1882, "id": 482432, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 284, "len_tokens": 340, "text": "Pros: Looks beautiful, left front burner works like a champ.\n\nCons: Everything else. Seriously. Maybe I received a lemon, but the oven does NOT heat evenly, and I'm always forced to turn pans of cookies or other baked goods 180 degrees to ensure even browning. The right front burner will not light consistently, and I often have to use a lighter in order to get it started. The same burner, which is meant to be high-powered, is reduced to an expensive decorative candle when the oven is running because the air flow from the oven blows right over the burner, causing the flame to be displaced enough so that it doesn't heat whatever is over it. After 2 years, the middle burner stopped lighting all the way around, and now only shoots about 2\" of flames out on the right side, while the rest stays completely unlit. The display panel started to give out at around the same time, slowly getting dimmer. When pushed upon, it would light back up briefly, and then go dim again. This continued until the panel went completely black. The buttons still worked though, so I was able to continue using the oven, provided I was very accurate in inputting the temperature I wanted, and listened for all the right audio cues to let me know the oven was on and working. Finally, the buttons stopped responding altogether, and the replacement part was two-hundred bucks. Factor in the $200 in labor, and that's $400 to fix only one part (of several improperly functioning parts) of a $2000 range. We purchased this range because of the good reviews, but I find them difficult to believe based upon my own experiences.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1883, "id": 8925, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 245, "len_tokens": 305, "text": "This item does the trick for any appliance needing a dryer plug, which is located in close proximity to the actual dryer outlet.  Sure, you could buy a plug with a longer cord, but why pay extra for more wire if you won't ever need it?  This one cost less than half the price of 6ft cord at my local Home Depot.  I knock off 1 star because of the slightly mis-leading product description.  When I first opened the package, I looked at it and thought I was shipped the wrong product ... it appeared to be a 2ft plug, not a 4ft one.  So, I got out the tape measure and checked.  Sure enough, it was close to the advertised 4ft, but they are measuring from the eyelets to the top prong of the plug (I can't remember exactly, but that might have been measuring out to the tip of the prong).  Since the 4-5\" on each of these ends are connected inside of the socket and appliance, this seemed to be a semi-case of false advertising since it subtracts from the \"usable\" length of the cord.  The product description never made clear from where and to where the 4ft measurement was made.  Just be aware of this, and realize this cord will only give you a little over 3ft usable length from point A to B.  I still had plenty of slack for my application, so it was still fine for me.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1884, "id": 38409, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 263, "len_tokens": 325, "text": "Getting your money's worth out of this Kegerator apparently requires two things:\n\n1) knowledge of how Kegerators are put together, because when you want to take it apart for cleaning, the instructions are no help whatsoever, and\n2) the intent to pour a beer from the tap at least once every few days.\n\nIf you are occasional beer drinkers like we are, you will find that the tap handle sticks easily. Pouring a beer is still possible with some effort, but after a year of infrequent use, the tap handle on our Kegerator broke off. We now have half keg of beer sitting inside the refrigerator, inaccessible until we buy a new faucet.\n\nAssembling the Kegerator when we first received it was not without its challenges. The duck-billed washer that came with it restricted the flow of beer to a trickle. After doing some internet research, I learned that the washer is supposed to have a slit in it. I used a razor blade to cut one--which was not easy because the washer is small and you have little margin for error--and beer was able to flow freely.\n\nFinding the right CO2 pressure is actually rather frustrating. We burned through the first CO2 canister fairly quickly. There may have been a leak somewhere in the connections but I never found it. Our first keg produced very few beers that weren't excessively foamy. The second keg (and second CO2 canister) was better, at least until the handle broke off.\n\nWhen it worked right, this Kegerator was great...but those times were few and far between.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1885, "id": 52556, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 296, "len_tokens": 377, "text": "We bought the Whirlpool Duet Sport on Oct 4, 2010.  It worked fine until (interestingly enough) mid-January when it started making a loud banging noise which also rocked the machine across the laundry room floor.  Since it was more than 90 days after purchase (just barely!), there is reluctance to working with the customer to get a replacement.  So, to the repair department we went.  By the time they showed up, the machine was unusable and a film of grey dust had accumulated around the front of the machine on the floor.  Well, it turns out the front counterweight had broken loose and was banging on the inside of the washer and the pump. (The counterweights are made of a concrete-like substance.) Under a service agreement fortunately, the repair cost would have been well over $400.  Less than 3 weeks later, there is a tell-tale banging noise coming from the machine again.  Well, guess what????  The counterweight bolt was stripped again and was in the process of breaking loose...again.  Now with another service call of over $320 in parts and labor (fortunately, still under service agreement), we are waiting for for the technician to install the parts.  I am SO-O-O-O glad I bought a service agreement or this thing would be at the local landfill by now.  Really too bad because I like the machine when it's working like it should :^P.  It cleans well and we are very careful about wiping out any extra water accumulation in the rubber seal and leaving the door open when not in use so there have been no issues with odor.  I have to admit though, if I'd known all this in October, I would have bought a Kenmore efficient top-loader.  Should have done my research.  Shame on me!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1886, "id": 57545, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 319, "len_tokens": 387, "text": "Except for the direction manual, which could have been a little more clear in some places, everything about this kit was wonderful.\n-- As long as you follow the directions on tightening the rods and securing with electrical tape you should have no issues with the rods unscrewing and becoming lodged in the duct work.\n-- The auger brush did an excellent job at cleaning a duct which looked like someone's clogged arteries--full of lint, leftover bird's nest, and much of this material was soggy and wet in places, as well as part of the duct somewhat rusted.\n-- I'll be using this every year to help prevent drier-duct-related fires\n\nAdditional Tips:\n-- If you have a long stretch of pipe to clean (ours was over 21') and the vent is on the 2nd floor, this is a 2-person job.  Connect as many rods as needed to cover the whole stretch of the duct.  Have one person up on the ladder holding/guiding/stabilizing the rods at the point of entry to the house, while the other person is down on the ground with the drill keeping the extended rod as straight as possible while slowly moving in toward the ladder and then eventually handing the drill over to the person on the ladder.\n-- Don't assume a once-and-done cleaning, particularly for a duct which is heavily clogged.  Go over the whole duct numerous times with the auger brush, blowing from the inside with a leaf blower after each time.\n-- Once most debris is cleared, go over the duct again (again coming at it from the outside) while at the same time using an electric leaf blower attached at to the inside start of the duct using (of course) duct tape :-)  You'll end up dirty, but you can tell by the amount of debris flying out when you've gotten most of it and it's time to call it quits.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1887, "id": 48057, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 259, "len_tokens": 303, "text": "The reason why this product has gotten a good amount of bad reviews is because the product is being used wrong. Reading directions will take you a long way. Now when i first got this product i HATED it because i didn't do certain things to my hair after i applied the pudding. Anyways like the instructions say, after I wash my hair I put a nice amount on three of my fingers and rub it on my little afro while pulling my curls through, and also while my hair is still WET. This products smells so good and I can literally see my curls expanding and the shrinkage dissappearing. After I'm done rubbing it in, I either tightly twist my hair, or put rubbers bands all over to let my hair AIR DRY. While its drying I apply a small amount of Hollywood beauty olive oil to each twist or rubber band puff, simply because my hair requires an oil because of how dry it gets. Once its done drying my hair looks amazing! No shrinkage period, no flakes, and my curls are soft and curly! Of course this product is expensive (although I bought my curly pudding at target for $23.00) It works very good for me because I'm following the directions. I don't recommend blow drying your hair with this because you may definitely see flakes. I also recommend to twist the hair while it air drys with the pudding so that it locks moisture and the pudding in. Overall I like Miss Jessie's Curly Pudding.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1888, "id": 459393, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 242, "len_tokens": 301, "text": "Zero stars would be more appropriate.\n\nI bought this with the hope that it would help with cleaning up the various stains that come with everyday living.  Not even close. First, the push-button to spray the cleaning solution is cheap and feels like it's going to break and it dispenses only a tiny amount of solution.  To cover a stain about 2 inches by 1 inch, you have to keep pressing the button. It took about 10 pushes to actually \"cover\" the stain. After waiting the required 2 minutes, you set the device to \"scrub\". The scrubber bristles are softer than my toothbrush and barely come in contact with the carpet, even when pushing down. The idea is that the scrubbing action will work the cleaning solution into the carpet and loosen up the dirt.  Then you switch to the \"vacuum\" setting, which is supposed to suck up the dirty cleaning solution. Another great idea with poor execution. After several minutes and lots of pressing the machine into the carpet, not a single water drop was removed. I double-checked the instructions to make sure I didn't miss anything - I didn't. I had followed them to the letter.\n\nSo, I tried again. I've tried this device on several different types of stains now and it hasn't done a darn thing.  New stains, old stains, simple spills, light dirt, pet stains, mystery stains, it doesn't matter, this thing is a piece of junk.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1889, "id": 88094, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1890, "id": 115506, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 313, "len_tokens": 381, "text": "The ice maker in my 15 year old Whirlpool refrigerator stopped working recently, and being new to this kind of repair, I did a lot of online research.  My fridge has both an ice dispenser in the door, as well as a water dispenser.  The water comes out full force, so I figured it must be something in the ice maker itself.  I ordered this unit before doing additional research.  It came very quickly, and by the time it came, I had found out that there were test holes in the \"head\" unit that your could insert an insulated probe, and manually start the harvest cycle, as well as manually open the water valve to fill the tray.  This replacement unit was identical in shape and size, and exchanging it out was a quick 15 minute job.  Unfortunately, while the harvest cycle worked, the unit would not fill with water.  Inserting my test probe into the \"V\" and \"L\" holes triggered the water valve to open, and the unit filled up and completed its cycle.  Then my test probe started getting intermittent results with the tray filling, and after a day or so, I couldn't get it to fill at all.  I suspect either the water valve itself is bad (though I still get water to the water dispenser), or possibly something in the internal wiring, which wouldn't be an easy fix.  But my reason for giving 5 stars is do to the excellent service by the vendor.  I sent an email after having the new unit installed for 24 hours, and they immediately sent me a replacement unit, along with a pre-paid shipping label to return the first unit.  I don't believe there is anything defective in the unit itself....it's just a problem I haven't figured out yet.  But there level of commitment to good customer service has earned them 5 stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1891, "id": 407795, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 251, "len_tokens": 387, "text": "<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Best-GE-MWF-Refrigerator-Water-Filter-Smartwater-Compatible-Cartridge/dp/B01BIDPHYQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Best GE MWF Refrigerator Water Filter Smartwater Compatible Cartridge</a>&nbsp;We bought the first filter which was delivered on June 5, 2018.  The filter seemed to be ok for the first 5 days but on the 6th day, ice and water delivery stopped.  The following morning, June 12, 2018, we awoke to find that the filter had developed a severe leak which left 3 or 4 inches of water on the bottom of the refrigerator compartment.  That accumulation of water was rapidly leaking out of the refrigerator, on to the kitchen floor and then ultimately through the kitchen floor in to the lower level.  The kitchen flooring (vinyl tile) has started raising up and ceiling tile, drywall and carpeting are damaged in the lower level.  Ultimately, the water stopped flowing thanks to the shut-off valve.  An even sadder part of this story is that we had ordered 3 additional filters from the same provider believing them to be \"ok\".  The filters were delivered later in the day (06/12/2018) after the flood had been cleaned up.  The box has not even been opened but upon attempting a return process, we were stunned to find out that the filters are \"not returnable\"!  I would advise anyone considering purchase of these filters to avoid this provider and perhaps any of the \"knock-off\" filter manufacturers!  We're going back to the OEM GE filters (which are overpriced) as in the long run, the type of damages we sustained are not worth the slight savings.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1892, "id": 468241, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 244, "len_tokens": 313, "text": "About after a year of having this, the light switch holder broke, now I have the light switch actually hanging down the back where the filters go. I cannot use the 2nd filter (right side) since the cord is in the way. When I tried to carefully put it back into the holder, both of the thin plastic flaps broke off. Also the shape of the switch is sort of like a triangle (with the point touching the switch holder), so can't even super-glue it back in place. Today I wanted to check it again, see if there was ANY way to have it back in the slot, but another piece of plastic broke off from behind the nameplate with literally the slightest touch.\n\nCons:\n- $20.42 to get a new switch assembly part. (Part number: 97017730)\n- The nameplate sticker has been bending, a piece broke off today. $3.38 to replace a sticker. (Part number: 99526652)\n- $33.28 to get both of those parts, with shipping (No, shipping is not free.)\n- The lights are not flush, they stick out a couple millimeters down the bottom.\n- The lights used to blink or just stop working, even brand new lights wouldn't turn on, until I found out that a bit of percussive maintenance causes the electrical to make a connection and turn the lights back on. (Fire hazard, much?)\n- The fan goes from barely-working to jet-engine.\n\nPros:\n- Filters snap in easily.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1893, "id": 88134, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1894, "id": 29823, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 302, "len_tokens": 356, "text": "I received this portable cooktop as a Christmas present in 2006. We are planning to build a retirement home in a few years and plan to install an induction cooktop. We bought this unit to explore the cooking technique needed for induction cooking.  This unit has turned into our daily cooking tool since the day I received it. My wife has always wanted a \"good\" set of stainless cookware so we bought a nice set of All-Clad cookware to go with it.\n\nThe temp settings take a little getting used to but I've found that changing from temp to cook setting makes a big difference in the temperature. Once you determine the setting for the heat range your looking for then this unit will do whatever you need.\n\nPro's are the temperature comes up much quicker than an electric unit and acts more like a gas cooktop. We have a Jenn-Air ceramic cooktop and it doesn't even compare to this little portable unit. I'm cooking in half the time on the induction it takes to get up to temp on the Jenn-Air and using half the power to do it.\n\nCon's are it takes longer to bring a pot of water to boil on this portable unit than our electric Jenn-Air. Around 5 minutes longer. But overall for a unit that's 120V vs. a 240v for a full fledge cooktop this unit is one nice piece of equipment and can supplement any gas or electric stove in your kitchen. The only other drawback is you need to have cookware that is magnetic, either stainless or cast iron, take a refrigerator magnet with you when shopping for new cookware. I would recommend this unit to anyone looking to compliment  their existing kitchen appliances and reduce their electricity consumption and heat in the kitchen.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1895, "id": 388220, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 151, "len_tokens": 301, "text": "I used this with some old-school gasket shellac (as seen on YouTube). Paint the outer seal groove, fold/press the seal into the tub, rotate the seal a half-turn to ensure everything is fully in place and straight, slide tub onto the center post using a bit of silicone lube, then let dry for an hour or so. If you're into the washer this far, take an extra 5 min and also replace the 2 sets of 3-each nylon skid pads (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-Part-Number-285219-PAD/dp/B001DPFKKG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool Part Number 285219: PAD</a>&nbsp;and&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-285744-Pads/dp/B00DM8KFOI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool 285744 Pads</a>&nbsp;so that the tub won't shake as much, which is usually what makes this seal start to leak. Keep these direct-drive washers going - they are easy & cheap to fix, very reliable, and even get your clothes clean. No pillows, shoes, or other unbalanced loads though, since those really tear up this type of washer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1896, "id": 57504, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 256, "len_tokens": 307, "text": "I've got a fairly short dryer vent run with only a couple 90 bends.  Regardless, it was still a consideration that the recent performance drop in my dryer was due to some build-up.\n\nI purchased this kit based on the mostly positive reviews here.  I wasn't disappointed at all with my purchase.  My one concern was a review that stated the brush head they received had a plastic coupling.  I didn't find that the case with the unit I received.  All couplings were metal, and the primary duct brush even included a set screw to ensure it doesn't come loose.  Keep in mind that the flex shafts do not have such a safety mechanism, so be sure to run the power drill only in a clockwise direction as the instructions clearly state.\n\nWhen cleaning my own duct, I ran the brush into the vent from the outside while using the vacuum adapter with my shop vac at the connection where my dryer would normally be located.  My ducting is all galvanized steel from end to end; no flex duct.  I would highly suggest that when using a two speed drill, speed 1 (low) should be plenty fast enough.  Follow the instructions and take your time.  From the beginning to end, the entire process, including running the brush inside the dryer and vacuuming, took less than 30 minutes.\n\nIt's hard to fault anything with this kit considering its price and the amount of money one can save over calling in a \"pro\" to do the same job.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1897, "id": 464400, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 275, "len_tokens": 370, "text": "Washing your dishes used to be a non-issue. Even with my \"builders\" model (read: under $250) dishwasher, pretty much everything got clean. Unfortunately this is no longer the case.\nBy regulatory action in most states, dish-washing detergents may no longer contain phosphates. With my original dishwasher, the side effects of this change included white, pasty residue over dishware, as well as a coating of ground-up grit evenly distributed and baked-on over everything. These are well-documented problems with phosphate-free detergent.\nI'd already tried different premium detergents, and cranked my hot water up to 185F- neither of these issues helped at all. I put in a separate little water heater under the sink so the dishwasher would get its hot water right away- still no change.\nThe KitchenAid KUDE70 solves these issues very well. Its internal filtering gets rid of all- and I do mean ALL- crud, and I do NOT pre-rinse anything. No more white gunk, either. I turned my hot water temp down to normal, with NO reduction in cleaning quality.\nThere's a lot more capacity inside, with three spray arms, and an upper flatware tray. There is a \"power scrub\" mode with special sprayers for cleaning pots. I tested this by burning an egg and leaving the pot set for a day. After washing once- All Clean!\nAh, it's really nice to have clean dishes once again! This unit is definitely worth the cash.\nConditions for this review:\n- Length of ownership- about 1 month\n- Price Paid: $1239\n- Incoming water temp 135F with water tank located near dishwasher\n- Detergent used: Cascade powder with Dawn \"Shine Shield\"\n- Rinse Aid: Jet Dry", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1898, "id": 84057, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 176, "len_tokens": 300, "text": "<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Fox-Run-Heat-Diffuser/dp/B001ET5ZPQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Fox Run Heat Diffuser</a>\n\nI really wanted to like this product, but there were problems right from the start. I purchased two of them.\n\nFirst, I washed and dried the diffusers by hand, and that was fine.\n\nThere was no smoke or smell at all from the metal parts when I used them, as some have commented on here.\n\nThe problem is that the wooden handle immediately caught on fire. The flame on my burner was not at full force, nor did it take long for the handle to catch on fire.\n\nI had to quickly remove it from the stove, by hand while on fire, run it under the faucet, and then put it outside until it stopped smoking.\n\nWhile this did not cause me any harm, as my sink is only a few feet from my stove, it is clearly a hazard.\n\nAlso see my similar review of another type of diffuser on here:\n\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Heat-Diffuser-Rangetop-99134/dp/B000HM9ZSY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Heat Diffuser Rangetop 99134</a>\n\nI would not recommend either of these items.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1899, "id": 88522, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1900, "id": 273981, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 238, "len_tokens": 300, "text": "Items are NOT \"BRAND NEW\". Drum roller axles were rusted and had grease residue on them, despite being in a sealed package. I think these items are salvaged or recycled. (I hope to figure out how to add a picture,so you can SEE this!)\n\nThe axles are also about 5mm shorter than my original OEM parts. I am not sure if this makes a difference because I did not install them, but it seems like this would be a huge factor to overlook!  Perhaps these were salvaged from a \"similar\" Maytag dryer, but not the \"exact\" dryer.  Either way,these axles were unsatisfactory in every way.\n\nWould have returned them, but their 40-page return policy surely discourages that. I had an open package, and was not prepared to enter the battle of the \"restocking fee\". Their whole spiel about \"installed\" items are enough to make your stomach churn. With the condition of these axles, I am SURE they would have claimed I was trying to scam them by trying to return my OLD axles! Yes, they were in THAT poor of a condition. Not worth my time and the hassle.\n\nSo instead of risking sending them back and having them rejected while being on the hook for shipping fees, I cleaned and salvaged my old axles and just used the seemingly \"new\" rollers and washers (they were ok). At least my old axles were not rusty.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1901, "id": 55329, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 312, "len_tokens": 375, "text": "We recently bought the Broan AP130SS hood and needed to recirculate the air so naturally we bought this.  After a bit of tinkering, we absolutely love this and the hood. I'll review the hood there, here's just the information about this unit.\n\nWe did have two items that needed to be addressed.  One, the electric connection.  I had installed an outlet and had a cord to connect to the hood, but there was no place to pass the cord through the top of this unit.  I ended up drilling a hole into the top of this unit, right above the knockout for the cord from the hood.  Problem solved.\n\nSecond was the filters and this threw me for a bit.  The instructions here simply state to put the aluminum filters from the hood into the bigger, plastic holder filter and then simply 'install these filters with the aluminum filters facing out'.  I couldn't figure this out as the plastic ones didnt' fit.  At first we just pushed them into place and compression was holding them, but I knew that couldn't be right.  I contacted Broan and at first all they did was send me the same instructions I had.  I asked for further clarification and they sent me four photos and that finally hit home.  What you have to do is slide the aluminum filters into these plastic holders like the instructions state.  Then bend the plastic trim around the aluminum filters to they become almost molded to the original filter.  You might have to work the plastic a little to get it to bend that much.  Then, slip the top part back into place, while bending the sides of the plastic around the filter still, and lift into place.  Basically, these fit just like the aluminum filters only, but now much tighter with the plastic trim.\n\nNow it's awesome!  Love it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1902, "id": 301184, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 310, "text": "We bought a slightly earlier model of this dryer with the matching washer, plus pedestals for both--the total purchase cost about $4,000.\n\nWhen our dryer needed a repair, we discovered that LG no longer maintained inventory on either of the two parts needed to repair the otherwise perfectly functioning dryer. So, our dryer is junk, and we now need to purchase a completely new dryer. Plus we also need to purchase a new matching washer or have a mismatched set, probably for the rest of our lives in this house. Not to mention the cost and inconvenience of removing the old appliances and installing the new ones.\n\nThere is also the vast environmental waste of making several hundred pounds of costly metal and electronics into garbage that goes into a landfill.\n\nThe average useful lifespan for a washer or dryer is about 15 years. LG seems to think the lifespan of their products should only be 5 or 6 years since that is how long they maintain parts inventories for their appliances, according to a supervisor I spoke with at their 800 number. Other manufacturers routinely maintain parts inventories for expensive major appliances for much longer.\n\nNot maintaining an inventory of repair parts is a sure way to make your customers feel very taken advantage of and very angry. We certainly will never buy another LG product of any type.\n\nLG \"apologized\" for their policy of not maintaining an inventory of parts, but offered no other help or compensation.\n\nIn any case, LG washer-dryers are not the top-rated washer-dryer by the leading consumer testing organization.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1903, "id": 182431, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 282, "len_tokens": 337, "text": "I guess if you don't do much baking, this is a good range. It looks fantastic, the burners are great, and the bottom oven seems to bake well. But oh, the top oven. This is a major disaster, and I simply don't understand how GE gets away with selling this model. Read the reviews scattered around the web about the top control panel getting very hot: they are true. I suspect this might only happen if you bake for some length of time in the top oven, or open and close it frequently to transfer or check on items. I spent 2-3 hours baking several quiches and trays of cookies, taking things in and out, and the entire top panel got blisteringly hot (and I don't say that figuratively - it actually blistered my hand when I touched it). All the knobs, as well as the metal panel behind it got this hot. It got so hot, it melted the plastic rings around the knobs, which are now brittle and puckered and unsightly. I'd frankly be scared to use this in my house again with children (especially since one can't easily see that the oven is even on), and scared to cook on the stovetop myself if the oven is on, for fear of accidentally touching the front panel. Worst of all, since we ordered this unit in advance of a kitchen remodel and only started using it about 6 weeks after purchase, the seller is now refusing to allow us to return it, since they have a 30-day return policy. We're now pursuing a remedy directly with GE, but one way or the other, this appliance is leaving the house!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1904, "id": 156754, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 297, "len_tokens": 369, "text": "I have a KUDS01FLSS3 dishwasher. Ive gone through several door balance kits and springs in the products 11 years of service. I generally replace parts in pairs. When one spring broke, I replaced both springs. When one cord broke, I replaced both cords. This time, a plastic tab broke that holds the pulley assembly to the dishwasher broke. I bought this kit not remembering I had leftover spare parts. The new plastic pulley system came with 2 rotating pulleys. The old system had one rotating pulley and one fixed pulley. I installed the new pulleys on both sides and vaselined the new cords. After it was all put back together, it screeched. Maybe the grease is not needed with two rotating pulleys. Hard to take off the grease once its been put on. I always used the vaseline on the cords to quiet the cords. I found the old style pulleys and installed them. The squeaky screeching went away. I also tired installing the double-action pulleys on the different tensioning holes. That didn't make a difference.\nIve seen 2 cord plastic-end connector types. One type is a straight plastic hook that attaches in-line with the cord. Thats what is pictured on Amazon. The other type attaches at an angle. The dishwasher came with the angled plastic attachment. That failed after a few years. No complaints against either design. Just noting the cord parts that arrived in the mail don't look like the cord parts in the picture. I didn't measure the lengths as some others have noted receiving shorter cords than the originals. I didn't have a problem with the lengths.\nBottom line, the parts fit and seemed to be high quality. For some reason I couldn't get them to install and operate quietly on my dishwasher.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1905, "id": 358774, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 277, "len_tokens": 327, "text": "So far so good! I have used Water Sentinel (WSL-3) in the past many times as a factory replacement, but the last couple I have bought only lasted about a month before the flow rate dropped dramatically and made it painfully slow to wait holding a cup/coffee put up to the fridge for that extended amount of time (would take at least 5 minutes to fill up a 12 cup coffee pot).\n\nPros (thus far):\n- Flow rate! Right away I noticed a HUGE improvement in flow rate compared to both the Water Sentinel brand and factory water filter. Two weeks later, still going strong. If the flow rate drops dramatically like other original manufacturer brand water filters, I will update.\n- Cost. For the price, this filter can't be beat.\n- Taste. Helps eliminate some of the normal \"flavors\" of city water. Any built in fridge water filter will never be able to compare to a reverse osmosis  water filtration system, so you can only expect so much.\n- Not a huge deal, though rather a nice addition, but Refresh included stickers to place on your filter (or anywhere for that matter) that has the months labeled on them so you can see place the appropriate month of install near/on the filter to help remind yourself how long it's been since install.\n\nNeutral feedback:\n- After testing the water quality difference between straight tap water and fridge filtered water with this particular filter, the filter does remove approximately 50 ppm. This is to be expected and is typical of this type (carbon) water filter.\n\nCons:\n- None at this time. Will update if needed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1906, "id": 449524, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 250, "len_tokens": 322, "text": "One month and so far I'm very happy with this washer/dryer. This is my first front load or combo and it has lived up to expectations. I think of this machine as a compact washer with an optional dryer function; it will completely dry clothes, but you need to work within the limitations. I have not experienced any problems with the burning rubber some others have complained about.\n\nPros--\nClothes come out clean--have not experienced any drop off in cleaning compared to a full-sized machine\nQuick, efficient washing--can be done in as little as thirty minutes.\nReasonably compact and can be mounted on a trolley for movability\nHas a non-vented dryer and clothes usually come out completely dry or very slightly damp (and then quickly become dry with a little air)\nQuite versatile with washing choices, drying choices, delay timers, etc.\nAutomatic wash + dry is incredibly convenient--put the clothes in before you leave for work and come home to clean, dry clothes!\nSeems to be a solid, well-built machine\n\nCons--\nDryer option is limited to a maximum of half a load (more and it won't dry properly)\nDrying function can take a long time--wash + dry can take up to 3 and a half hours\nNot loud, but not really quiet either--at it's loudest, during the spin cycle, I clocked it at 75 dB\nDrying function has an annoying, 12 second long, low frequency \"shaking\" every 30 seconds.  I only use the dryer when I'm out of the house.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1907, "id": 84861, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 325, "len_tokens": 385, "text": "I purchased this ice tray after doing some research as to why my ice maker was not dumping cubes into the ice bin anymore.  The problem had gotten so bad that the entire ice bin was a solid block and water was running down the side of the freezer.  Instead of calling a repairman I checked out some forms online and found out that many others have had this issue with their Samsung Ice maker. for $12 it was worth a try and hope that it worked.\n\nGot the new ice try yesterday, swapped it in and to my surprise everything was back to normal and functioning better than before.  In the last 9 years of owning my Samsung Fridge the ice cubes never came out uniform.  Now they do.  The old ice tray had cracked at the male end of the turning unit.  Happy that it was an easy fix.\n\nModel number for my fridge was RS267LBBP\nTo replace:\n1. turn off water source and ice maker (on the front panel)\n2. Look up at the ceiling of the freezer and locate two screw holes\n3. Remove screws and pull out on the unit, should slide right out\n4. drop it down and disconnect the wire harness from the fridge - now you can work on this not in the confines of the freezer\n5. move the wires that attach to the thermometer out of the slots\n6. Pop out the motor\n7. Insert the new ice trey\n8. Tuck thermometer back into its housing, pop in the motor, tuck in the wires so the unit looks as it did when you took it out\n9. Connect wire harness back together, pop it back in\n10. Put screws back in unit.\n11. Reset the ice maker (little button on bottom of motor) to test and then go back to your life with cubes!\n\nAll in all took me about 10 minutes to do so,", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1908, "id": 408910, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 342, "len_tokens": 392, "text": "The fridge was easy to unpack and set up and came with a mini ice tray and ice scraper. I really wanted some space in the freezer as well as fridge and this minifridge has it. I mainly use it for beverages, but I like to freeze the noncarbonated beverages like water or gatorade as I am in Texas and temperatures get up to 120 or more sometimes. 100-110 is not unnormal, so drinks get hot fast and ice melts in no time. So, far it is working great. It said to wait 2 hours to plug it in to allow coolant to settle, then set to maximum for 2 hours to help get the temperatures up to par. Did this and then put in what I wanted to get cold. Drinks in fridge are keeping cold and drinks in freezer are freezing great. I like the whole setup and hope to enjoy it for quite some time. The one thing I had hoped for though is being easier to reverse the doors if necessary, but it takes several tools to make it happen. Luckily, my fiance does maintenance and has experience doing things like that, so will leave that all up to him!\n\nThis product was provided at a discounted price in exchange for my honest review.\n\nUpdate: Have had it about a year now and just wanted to say it is still working well, even with a small daughter who wants to keep trying to leave the doors open on it. Freezer is usually frost free always, except when daughter left freezer door open a little for awhile, but that wasn't the fault of the freezer. I'd say the only downsides to fridge after getting used to it, is the shelf in freezer door is a bit of a joke as its so small, not much can fit there. Maybe an ice pack or something. Second, I wish the drawer in the fridge was just a little smaller to allow a little more shelf room. Otherwise, I still love it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1909, "id": 349286, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 283, "len_tokens": 328, "text": "This is our second order. I just tried to return it but I'm not able to. I try to buy things like this ahead, so I bought these in November while they were on sale at $10 off. The first package of two were great. It's the first filter in the new package of two that creates very malodorous water. I called whirlpool customer service, but they said the new filters are no longer made by PUR and that these filters are quite old/out of date. Of this second package, I'm disappointed with the first filter. Have not tried the second because I was planning on returning them. Installed in our fridge, the filter is used to remove potential toxins etc, but our drinking water from the tap tastes fine. With this filter just replaced the water smells horrible. After I put in the new filter, I flushed 4 gallons of water through it as the instructions say to do. I then made some coffee and thought there was a problem with our coffee pot. It is a coffee pot we bought a few months ago so the smell of the coffee was fresh in my mind. Because of this water filter, the water has a smell that is just like the burnt/electronic smell that you notice in the first pot of coffee made in a new drip coffee pot. That's the best way to describe it.  Whirlpool was apparently having issues with quality control and no longer has the filters made through PUR. The Whirlpool representative said nothing in the filter should smell the way I described, but confirmed that the filter is quite old if it says \"PUR\" on the side.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1910, "id": 570652, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 307, "text": "I was so worried ordering this! I was worried it would get beat up in shipping and it was fine! It worked great. I love pumping the water out and seeing how dirty the water is coming out because I know it's cleaning them so well! I have towels I thought I may have to throw away and it washed them like a full washer. I can fit small throw pillows in it, a bottom and top queen sheets at once. 4-6 towels at once, a bout a 1/2 a \"normal\" load at the laundrymat of clothing, and even a queen fleece blanket! The spinner spins so well, clothes are almost dry after a minute at most. Hooked up easy to my kitchen sink and came with an adapter that fit my sink perfectly! I could not attached to my bathroom sink tho. I love that it has a pump, sometimes the pump is a tad weak but angling the tubing and messing around with that you can fix it in seconds. Just make sure not to over wash delicate clothing (like any washer) but with this washer of it's not that dirty and delicate only a few minutes will be fine! I do delicates separate at only about 5 mins tops. Also don't over fill the washer or it will not wash them well and splash out some. I plan to do a full review on YouTube in the future. Im disabled and use a wheelchair so it's actually easier than a normal washer dryer for myself. Great for a small apartment on a budget!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1911, "id": 52508, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 314, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "We have had our GE Cafe free standing gas range 5 sealed burner stove for 5 yrs.  We finished using our stove & oven and all was fine. Then as I wiped clean the stove top, the range was scorching hot and the oven and stove had been off for over an hour!  It felt as if it was going to over heat!  You couldn't touch the knobs or the stainless steel, it must have been over 200 degrees on the surface.\n\nWe have 3 young children, anyone of them could have scorched their hands by touching the knobs.  We pulled the stove out from the wall and unplugged it for fear that a fire would start\nand an explosion would occur as it's connected to the gas line.  We fear this stove is now a time bomb.  If we were not home at the time this overheated to unplug the stove, a potential house fire would have burned our home down.  I don't want it refurbished, repaired, we want to replace it.  The risk is too high for a hazard like this.  The more I read about our situation, we're not alone.  This has happened over an over again from many other people the more I research the issue.\n\nThe GE repair people have been very defensive and condescending as if nothing is the matter and the issue is a fabricated story.  Then they said they've had this complaint before on these stoves.  We called customer service, not customer 'no service'. Where is the customer service for an appliance that we paid $3600 for what we thought was the best stove?  GE needs to stand behind the products that they produce, quality and safety of a gas oven range is priority #1.\n\nCan anyone with this situation explain their outcome and end result?\n\nWe will not buy another GE product in the future.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1912, "id": 99297, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 258, "len_tokens": 307, "text": "When we bought our LG refrigerator 6 months ago, the salesman told me I could buy the replacement filters anywhere, (ie. Home Depot, Lowes, etc.), even the appliance store we bought it at.  Well, when it came time for me to get one, I couldn't find it anywhere.  The stores he mentioned did not carry it.  The store we bought the refrigerator at is not conveniently close at all to my house.  My husband was diagnosed with cancer in January so I'm limited on the amount of time I can be away from home.  I was finally able to make it over to the appliance store, only to be told that \"Oh...we're all out of stock on that one\".  I asked if he could take my name and number and call me when they come in because I really need it so he did and told me they should be in within a week.  Not feeling real confident in his answer, I looked on Amazon and found the exact filter I needed and it was cheaper than what I would've paid at the appliance store.  So, I went ahead and ordered it and received it and installed it a week later.  I really needed this filter as my husband needs to stay hydrated after having chemo and I didn't want to be without filtered water for him.  It was easy to install and works great.  It's been over a month now and I still have not heard from the appliance store.  Thank you for such great service Amazon!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1913, "id": 487188, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 287, "len_tokens": 358, "text": "I bought one of these and I am very disappointed, I expect more from a high end system.  The chiller works adequately but the heated water is a joke.  I turned the heat all the way up and the best I can get is ~180 degree water.  After about 8-10 oz of water are dispensed the temp starts to drop and within seconds it is 160.  I consider the hot to be the primary function and chilled to be a nice add-on.  Unfortunately, 180 isn't hot enough to tea and surely isn't hot enough for coffee.  If I have to put the cup in the microwave after getting the hot I don't see the point.\n\nI contacted the manufacturer and they tell me to insulate the tubing, check the voltage, and turn it up.  Seriously?  I am using one of their faucets, a dedicated circuit, and I am not completely stupid so I had already turned it up.  Other than that they had no suggestions.  On the plus side they did respond quickly.\n\nChilled comes out at 40 degrees and you can fill a glass without problems.  I haven't tested the cold capacity because it works well enough for a secondary function. Despite average instructions (missing some details like those below) installation was pretty easy and I would say that the overall build quality is good.\n\nNOTE the hot out is 6 mm tubing and the rest are 1/4\".  Also noteworthy is that they provide these 90 degree angle connectors.  The connectors are for 6mm tubing but they are plastic so you can't use them on the hot.  If you try to insert 1/4\" the angles will not seal and you will be cleaning up a puddle.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1914, "id": 87330, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1915, "id": 265710, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 314, "len_tokens": 366, "text": "We bought this dishwasher less a year ago at HH Gregg (floor model). We got a very good price and even did our research to confirm it was a good deal and good dishwasher before we completed the purchase. Alas, we were misled.  The dishwasher has had numerous issues over this last year and is already falling apart.  The silverware rack has had pieces break off which means silverware now slides through and jams the trays.  The plastic trim on the switch panel is peeling back and breaking off.  Dishes do not come out clean no matter what setting you put them on; the only way to get a clean dish is to basically pre-wash everything (absolutely no food particles of any size or consistency on any dish in the dishwasher).  Silverware regularly comes out dirty; if there is even a single grain of rice on a dish it will end up on the silverware.  Water backed up into the bottom of the dishwasher from the sink; not even clear how that happened but some kind of valve failed somewhere.  It's very sad because we just remodeled our kitchen, everything is new, and we are very pleased with our GE oven, our GE refrigerator and our GE microwave.  One of the reasons we purchased all the same brand for the stainless steel appliances was because GE has a unique tone to their stainless and we had already purchased the refrigerator before we learned that fact; hence we couldn't avoid having to purchase all GE appliances for the kitchen.  It's regretful but this GE dishwasher is a disappointment and I would not recommend it to anyone.  I've never written a bad review for anything but felt it was worth it in this case.  If you have to purchase GE (as we did), go find another model to purchase and don't get this one!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1916, "id": 486467, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 265, "len_tokens": 330, "text": "I have had this dryer for about a year now.  From day 1, I have the following issues: sheets and blankets get rolled into a large ball, so that they are dry on outside, and wet in the middle.  On normal cycle, it will sit on 1 minute remaining for an hour.  I must always stop the dryer manually.  If I use any other cycle besides normal, the dryer time will initially start out around 45 minutes, but after 10-20 minutes it will jump to 3-1/2 hours.  I have called Samsung support, and they sent the local person out, who obviously had no clue on how to repair this dryer.  He simple ordered a new computer, and replaced this.  Didn't change a thing, other than to negate any profits Samsung made on this dryer sale.  The software is obviously defective, and probably the dryer sensor is defective.  It is also noisy running.  It sounds like things are squeaking and rubbing against the drum while running (sounds like an old piece of junk).  I have an extended warranty, but don't know what to do about it???  And after service call, Samsung reps will call you to try to sell an extended warranty, instead of asking if your problem was resolved satisfactorily.  The computer has never had an software update sent to it, and I am thinking that Samsung will never bother with this (for example, change performance to prevent sheets rolling into a ball, or to prevent dryer from trying to run for over 3 hours, or 1 hour when 1 minute is displayed).", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1917, "id": 101639, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 307, "text": "I think this is my favorite Amazon purchase of all time. Being in San Francisco, I live in an older apartment without a laundry facility. Love my building, but adjusting to life without a washer was difficult.\n\nI have been using this thing OVER A YEAR now and it's still running beautifully without any hiccups. I run it for about 7 cycles a week too, but it's held up well. I work an office job and don't usually need more than a weekly \"refresher\" for my clothes. I soak them in laundry detergent in a container in my bathtub and then rinse them and spin them dry. I put it in the tub as it can really move around and the hose can drip water everywhere if you're not careful. This thing gets my clothes so dry! They still need to be hung and such, but it's impressive just how much water it gets out. (I put them in dripping wet) balancing can be a little tricky but you get the hang of it. Like other users I've noticed filling it fuller not only makes doing laundry take less time but also seems to help with balancing. On top of it all, I'm also noticing my clothes are lasting so much longer this way.\n\nSo grateful I never have to lug a bag of my wet clothes up flights of stairs ever again!\n\nUPDATE: after nearly two years, the lid came unhinged and I had to replace the unit. Unfortunately amazon no longer sells this, but it is available elsewhere online. So happy I found this!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1918, "id": 50424, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 256, "len_tokens": 323, "text": "Pros: Overall, I'm very happy with performance on heavy duty cleaning, 1/2 the detergent, ease and very quiet. Plus I'm likely using about 1/10th of the water I was. (Really a 5 star but can't edit that)\n\nCons: fairly long cycles. Not a lot of options: cold, warm, hot then baby, delicate, heavy, 2nd rinse and bleach (which it adds later in the cycle for a better job cleaning). Could see it rocking on your floor if it's not solid (but we are built up on piers--not slab)\n\nUsually research before buying, this time I did not. Got the washer home THEN read 2 bad reviews. So for the past 3 months have been expecting poor performance and/or a breakdown. Being a natural pessimist, I watched the laundry go around with what looked like almost no water and think \"bah, bad design, my clothes will never get clean\"\n\nBUT my husband's filthy clothes got amazingly clean, much cleaner than with the old top loader. Expected wadding and twisting of clothes, neither happens. Despite being told in the instructions not to open the door during the cycle, I always stop the cycle and add clothes and the machine senses it and adds more water. So maybe the lack of options are compensated by the smartness of the machine. I'm sure there are lemons, but a good thing to bear in mind is that people who are pleased with a product tend to not review it. I mean, it does what it is supposed to do, right?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1919, "id": 267099, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 289, "len_tokens": 353, "text": "I have had this stove for a few months and love it.  I was so disappointed to have to go from gas to anything other than gas and induction seemed like the best compromise.  Mind you, I was leaving behind a Viking range which, while I loved the high BTUs was disappointing in some ways, most notably, the oven.  I could NEVER get the Viking gas oven to work consistently so I absolutely love how even, precise, and predictable the oven is in this stove (and I know electric ovens are better in this way than gas).\n\nWhat I really want to comment on here is cookware.  I had some nice All Clad pieces which work beautifully on this stove as does my Le Creuset dutch oven.  But I had to replace my two nonstick skillets and that took some trying.  I bought a couple that were \"induction ready\" but only had a disc on the bottom that would react with the stove, vs. having the whole pan made of the right kind of metal (like All Clad).  So while they technically worked on the stove, they didn't work well.  They took a looooooooong time to heat up and just never seemed to get going the way the All Clad did.  In my experience, nonstick pans need to be replaced every few years even if you are careful with them, so I didn't want to make an investment in them but that's what I ended up having to do (I bought the All Clad nonstick).  However, if you do NOT want to spend big bucks, get Lodge cast iron.  They are the original nonstick cookware and work very, very well on induction and they are CHEAP!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1920, "id": 255908, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 207, "len_tokens": 315, "text": "I researched the net and Amazon for the best value in a water filter for my Maytag refrigerator. The best value by far was the Aquafresh WF 295 water filter that is a replacement for the OEM Maytag UKF8001. I was able to purchase the Aquafresh filters in a three pack through Amazon from DeepDiscountco. The cost of the three pack was the best value by far and the cost per filter was less than half of the UKF8001. DeepDiscountco shipped for free and there was no tax applied. What a deal!!! The filters arrived quickly and I was surprised at how easy it was to change the filter in my Maytag. The Aquafresh filter fits and works just like the original UKF8001. The owner of DeepDiscountco sent an email thanking me for the purchase and telling me to contact him if there were any issues (there were none) with a promise of a quick resolution by make me satisfied. What more can you ask for in customer service? I don't usually take the time to write reviews but I was so very happy with this purchase I could not help but share this info with others.&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Aquafresh-Replacement-for-UKF8001-Refrigerator-Filter-3-Pack/dp/B009YZKCCI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Aquafresh Replacement for UKF8001 Refrigerator Filter, 3-Pack</a>", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1921, "id": 88318, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1922, "id": 1881, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 294, "len_tokens": 386, "text": "I give this product my highest regard, I found it when searching what people in extreem cold do for their homes. It stops the cold air from flowing into the house, no more cold toes when opening the dryer. It also Keeps out hot air in the summer. But, its biggest feature is that it prevents Stink Bugs from entering your house! as well as rodents and birds, It also prevents these animals from Nesting in your dryer vent which can be the cause of a disastrous fire! It may have some lint build up, but its REALLY easy to clean out as part of keeping a home one should clean out the dryer vent at least once a month and the lint trap on the dryer itself \"Every Single Use\". One would say that this product puts excessive back pressure causing longer drying times and increasing lint build up. This study was done with a Magnehelic gauge ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFOHGVhmyQA ) But you can always add a exhaust booster the best one is a \"Tjernlund Products Dryer Duct Booster, Model# LB1\" here is a video that demonstrates its use and how it works (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwAiiKh9GVw ) In addition...This video is a must watch to help with the basic understanding of your dryer ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xiqlFX0VRQo )\n  The extra energy it uses to push out the air far outweighs your daily heating or cooling bill for your home, especially if your dryer vent is a Straight shot with no bends and less then 5 feet to the outside. The downfall is that its hard to find a Heartland 21000, but other companies are making them now and the concept is the same, very efficient if used properly and No, Bugs, Birds or Mice...and Warm Toes! Its a Win Win", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1923, "id": 509899, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 269, "len_tokens": 327, "text": "I bought a new Bosch Axiss + in 2010.  Since I have been living only like 3 months twice a year in our new home, the washing machine was hardly used.  Christmas morning it stopped working and I called the Service Company.  Same diagnose.  The switchboard stopped working and needed to be replaced.  $387 repair cost.  I called Bosch USA and after a couple of days they answered me I would not have to pay for the parts.  The bill would cover the labour alone.  I would be two weeks without a washing machine and I had about 19 people over between Christmas and New Year.  In the mean time I was in a move mode, moving back home.\nThe service company came back and was not aware of the fact I had contacted Bosh USA.  The lady who I talked to hadn't sent a fax to the service company, like she promised to do.  Fortunately I had an email I could prove I had contacted Bosch USA.  The service company contacted them for me and they billed me only for the labour.  The first Bosh customer agent was very friendly and understanding, but the second one was rude.  Not a good experience.\nI tried to contact Bosch Germany, but I cannot even find an address.  I will keep looking, because this should not have happened.\nI am extremely disappointed about the fact my new washing machine, which was not exactly cheap had such a major defect.  I don't trust it anymore.  I have a Bosch dryer, dish washer....\nFor my next acquisition I think I will change supplier.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1924, "id": 399808, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 325, "len_tokens": 374, "text": "Excellent value! Excellent purchase. This mini-washing machine really lives up to its reputation.\n\nPROs:\nFirst of all it is light so it can be moved from a storage location to an operation location. At only 30 lbs it is easy to keep in a shed and bring it out to do a load of clothes.\n\nSecond it holds more clothes than you think. The washer basked is large and seems to do an equal job whether it is full or mostly empty. The only negative is that the washer basket is so much larger than the spinner basket that you have to split up large wash loads into multiple spin loads.\n\nThird it does a great job washing clothes with very little soap. We use about 1/2 Tbls of liquid detergent for a half basket of clothes (4 lbs). The clothes always come out clean.\n\nFourth is the power of the spinner. Wet clothes come out so close to dry that it really takes very little effort to finish the job. An hour or less on a rack in the sun and everything is dry.\n\nFifth is the price. At less than $100 this is the bargain of a lifetime. We found small desktop mini-washers that cost more and did far less.\n\nCONs:\nFirst is the drain pump. It does not have the power to lift the water up to the level of a normal washer-drain. We use it outside so this is not a problem as we just lay the drain hose on the ground. It works in a bathtub as well for the same reason.\n\nSecond is the instruction manual. Obviously translated (maybe multiple times they are so bad) by someone who does not speak English and illustrated by my 2 year old. There are two filters to be cleaned and I have only found the first. I cannot follow the instructions or make sense of the illustrations to find the second.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1925, "id": 87454, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1926, "id": 462139, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 286, "len_tokens": 368, "text": "Ordered this to replace a 1980's-era Jenn-Air downdraft cooktop. We considered both conventional electric and induction cooktops when replacing our old one.  This cooktop was our choice in the end and we're very pleased with it. The things that won us over:\n\n* Appearance: Very basic and understated. We wanted something that would not quickly look out-of-style or dated.\n* Functionality: We wanted a cooktop that included few bells and whistles, with simple controls and zero learning curve. This is the hands-down winner.\n* Minimal changes required to install: Our install location would have made it difficult to install a separate vent hood or blower. Retaining the downdraft capability of the old unit assured us of being able to control fumes and smells predictably. This unit *DOES* require a 40-amp circuit though (as do most ranges in in the same size range). If you are replacing something more than 10 years old, make sure you take this into account for any replacement!\n* Predicted reliability/maintenance. The low complexity of this unit (no high-tech components, no expensive timers/computers) means there is simply very little that can fail, short of physical damage. We really were attracted by the alternative of induction cooking, but the complexity of even a fairly basic induction cooktop made me just a bit wary.\n\nAfter using it a few times, I can say that this unit is pretty close to perfect. It heats up MUCH faster than older electric cooktops with metal coil surfaces. Cleaning is simple. The exhaust fan is effective and quieter than we expected. Our installer ran into no complications at all when putting the cooktop in, and the understated, clean appearance makes this a purchase we're 100% happy with.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1927, "id": 301131, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 280, "len_tokens": 327, "text": "We had to replace a defunct 15 yr old Maytag Neptune washer-dryer combo that lived in our garage and decided to move our laundry inside to a 4' wide storage closet with a window, which made stacking 2 units impractical. I did purchase the LG pedestal for storage and ease of loading/unloading. This was the best option for us, as it allowed room for a laundry sink. I was a bit apprehensive about how well it would dry our clothes (based on some other reviews,) but let me assure you, this is most definitely not an issue! The time to complete a full wash & dry cycle is longer than with conventional machines, but the convenience of not having to move a wet load into the dryer makes it worthwhile. I love throwing in a load before work in the morning and coming home to dry laundry. Sometimes I do a load overnight. Most of our loads are done in 3 hours or less. Machine is quiet while operating (except for the cheerful little tune signaling completion of load). No issues with rocking or shifting, but the high rpms do cause some vibration of little consequence. The only drawback I find is that my husbands 100% cotton no-iron shirts come out wrinkled when I don't pull them out immediately. So I keep a spray bottle of water handy and mist them gently, hang to dry for a short time and they're ready to go. I'm still learning how to use the different settings, so maybe the steam setting will help with the shirts. Our clothes are getting much cleaner than before, and I am recommending this machine to everyone.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1928, "id": 234701, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 261, "len_tokens": 311, "text": "If you have a \"better\" model Kenmore, you can while the display is off, hold down the start and pause buttons at the same time.  After 5 seconds it will give you an E and a two digit code.  If you get E47 (like I did), this is probably the part you need.\n\nI would recommend getting a new spring held clamp for the \"boot\" that you have to partially move out of the way to replace this part.  My washer was 7 years old and the spring on my clamp was so corroded that it just stretched out when you pulled rather than spring back into shape.  The clamp cost more than this part too bad I couldn't find THAT on Amazon.\n\nThis motor also comes inside the wiring harness door switch part for almost 5 times as much.  Save your self the money just get the wax motor.\n\nTo replace it you have to open the wiring harness (pries open with a flat blade screwdriver), and slide out this motor and slide in the new one.  And while you're at it, pop open the panel below the door and check your shocks that anchor the washer tub to the bottom of the unit.  My right shock was broken and this same company had that part too.  Still for under $50 (clamp, wax motor, and shocks) I was able to bring my washer back to tip top shape.  I was quite pleased.\n\nOh and my parts were supposed to arrive between Monday and Wednesday, I got em the Saturday before!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1929, "id": 201095, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 320, "len_tokens": 383, "text": "Came within a click of ordering this from one of the popular on-line appliance parts stores from whom I've ordered a lot of parts in the past. Just for fun, I searched by the product description / part number and found this part for less than 1/2 the price. It was an exact replacement for the 25 year old original - they don't make 'em like they used to! Note that there are no instructions with this part. But a quick internet search will turn up several videos that make replacement a relative snap. If you can use a screwdriver and a nut driver, you'll have no problem.\n\nThe construction of the heater element was a little \"cheaper\" than the original in that they riveted the halves together so you won't be easily able to take it apart to replace the nichrome wire if needed in the future - considering the price of this part, it wouldn't make sense to replace just the heating element anyway. The design of the heating element stand-offs and insulators has changed a bit as well. However, if it lasts (half) as long as the original, I'll have no complaints.\n\nUPDATE at 2/1/2015. Had to replace this part after the heating element broke. Since I'm not sure if it was a product defect or - equally likely - vibration from the adjacent washing machine which caused the break (when operating, the nichrome wire glows cherry red and is, I suspect, relatively fragile). With the OEM element (much more costly), the unit could have been taken apart and a new heating filament installed. However this unit is riveted and it is impractical to disassemble. On the bright side, you can buy several of these for the price of an OEM part (not to mention the cost of a service visit), so I simply purchased another and moved the washer a little farther from the dryer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1930, "id": 55300, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 292, "len_tokens": 370, "text": "I thought I would be so pleased with my new sidekick.  My model may not be the exact number as listed in picture.  However, any buyer of a Sidekick needs to read many reviews before purchase.  The width is quite large, so I had to design my new kitchen for the 60 inch width.  Within the first 2 years, the freezer had problems.  Then the refrigerator.  I am stuck with a refrigerator that will not adequately cool.  A technician came out and said that he could not fix the freon system.  There apparently is a leak.  Apparently, after reading other reviews, I am not the first.  What am I to do, replace the frig unit? And now, of course, it will not match.  What would I replace it with? Another lemon? If I simply purchase a typical refrigerator with freezer built in, I now have a 60 inch wide gap on the wall that will only hold a 30-32 inch refrigerator.  How will that look? I spent lots of money for the two units and they have been a problem from the start and disappointment.  If you purchase one, be prepared to use and toss when you have a problem - and you WILL have a problem.  Aparently one should not expect to have a brand new refrigerator that will even work for 2 years.  One would think that at the very least you could get one repaired, wouldln't you?  You may wonder if we took care of our units.  I want to state that we NEVER moved the frig.  Store to home.  That's it.  This was my first new kitchen and I treated all my new appliances like a newborn baby! I will never, ever, ever buy another Whirlpool product again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1931, "id": 282852, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 274, "len_tokens": 335, "text": "once it gets going its pretty fast. if its a hot party idk about supplying more than 2 people hi-balls tho. casual sodas/punch a glass every 20mins or so then 2 maybe 3 people are covered. if the room is cool and the water is room temp it makes the first batch in under 8 mins but the cubes may be small,then it gets going and ur set. u fill ur glass with the ice BUT the ice is full of air (white cubes) so u NEED a full glass to get a room temp soda or punch cold. lets see how long it lasts.i got and extended warrantee ,something i always tell people not to get suckered into,but there where reviews of people having these work flawless for 6-10 months then bang-nuthin-dead, so i figured its hit n miss. i think part of it could be because its small it gets turned all directions and upside-down during shipping and refrigerant units aren't supposed to be treated that way,so i left mine 24hrs upright before first startup,hope that helps,time will tell\n\nupdate: 4 months ,away for a month ,back for 3 weeks BANG done. its dead. o it functions normally ,but just makes cool water. goes thru the complete cycle and u even see little pieces of icelets on the finger thingies,but i believe the coolant has leaked out. that makes me feel good as ive always wanted to unknowingly breathe in a gaseous chemical that doesnt exist in nature. now time will tell if the extended warrantee company will honor it and replace this thing or refund.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1932, "id": 522531, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 311, "len_tokens": 384, "text": "I don't own this specific model, but I own a very similar one so I feel it my duty to review a similar model to mine. I have had specific issues with burners lighting and the oven taking 45 minutes to get to 300 degrees, only to stop there. Notice, these issues came up in under three years but over one, so my warranty is gone.\n\nThe best word to describe this thing is 'flimsy'. Its thin metal, and plastic handles makes me wonder how its not a safety hazard. It may even work well for a year or two, but I guarantee, with this thin flimsy metal, and loose construction, its going to break down sooner rather than never.\n\nAlso, the attention towards electronic enhancements is a complete joke. It literally has a clock, and a timer that is just weak,  which good luck on figuring out how to set either one. It has no temp indicator, no bake timer that shuts your oven off automatically, no nothing.  I mean, it lacks even the most basic oven electronic advancements you get with the most standard ranges.\n\nThat bottom door for storage, feels like it could fall off at any second, and it probably will, soon. The actual oven door is all screwed together, tough to install and makes it difficult to see anything inside.\n\nAlso, consider, its 'duel fuel' which means you need a plumber and an electrician to install the thing. What else is amazing, considering the duel fuel, is that the oven TAKES FOREVER TO PREHEAT!!\n\nI know what your thinking, \"man this looks great\" and it sorta does, until you use/touch it, then your like \"nooooooo\". For the money, you could get the best GE or a Thor or spend the extra grand or so and get the Viking or Wolf, I guarantee you'll enjoy those more.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1933, "id": 465340, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 292, "len_tokens": 344, "text": "We installed the Fiber Optic unit in our vacation home in May of 2012.  October of 2013 - walking into the house after not being there for a month - the garbage disposal is running by itself.  After ensuring the fiber cable had not pulled loose and was still tight into the button, I just unplugged the unit.  After plugging it back in later, it seemed OK, but then 12 hours later it just kicked on by itself again while we were watching TV.  After talking to Waste King, they recommended trying to replace the switch - which I did for $32.  It was OK after replacing the switch for almost a day when it just turned itself on again.  They now recommend replacing my base unit, not under warranty any longer, of course, for another $90.  If I was sure this one would be any better, I would do it in a heartbeat before I burn up my garbage disposal.  Wish I would have installed the Air Switch instead - half the price and the last two houses I have had used them with zero problems.  Now to install one, I need to drill a larger hole in the granite, which is not an easy job for your typical homeowner.  I don't just happen to have a 1 3/8\" diamond hole saw sitting in my toolbox.\n\nGreat idea on the switch - love the look and the concept - loved the switch while it worked right, but this seems to be a common problem, based on some of the other reviews on here after a year or two of owning.  Twice the cost to buy initially and even more if you have to replace the Base Unit every couple of years.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1934, "id": 291034, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 307, "text": "Just a quick review to let everyone know that this is indeed an OEM kit arriving in Maytag labeled packaging! I actually ordered this kit for a Whirlpool Electric Dryer, model WED9200SQ1 and it fit perfectly! I just used my model number to search for the correct part number to cross reference and got it here for the best price on the internet!\n\nI also wanted to share that in one or more of the videos that are out there showing you how to break down the dryer to replace these parts, the control panel and front of the dryer is being removed, but my dryer did not have the same control panel and mounting clips, so I ended up removing the back panel to finally remove the drum. There were actually some keyhole slots around some of the screws on the back panel that made it appear as the proper method for my model.\n\nI should also state that I am a maintenance professional and supervisor by trade, and even though I do not have a lot of experience with washers and dryers, I have worked extensively on HVAC systems, refrigerators and ranges and I generally do all my own repairs at home. This particular job is not extremely difficult, I completed it in about 2 hours after a long work day and a bible tudy at church and I had never done a dryer drum removal before. So for all you do-it-yourself-ers reading this...dont be afraid, watch the videos, look everything over, get in there but take your time and you can do this!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1935, "id": 511909, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 292, "len_tokens": 366, "text": "Small and light, easy to move around, definitely takes more time to dry clothes, but since it runs on regular outlet and 110v, this is not surprising.  It arrived very well packed and completely damage free.  I thought it was quite heavy, but once unpacked it was not.  Apparently it can be installed on a wall and instructions are given, but did not arrive with the necessary parts or any exhaust hose except one plastic part that screws onto the outlet in back.  If it is supposed to have exhaust extensions, these did not come with it, and would be handy.  Will have to make a phone call about this.  So far, and this is the first day I am using it, so good.  Will add to this review if necessary later.\n\nI live in an apartment and grew tired of going to the laundromat.  This dryer, together with a portable washer (not the same brand) will let me do my laundry at home in any weather, and more than once per week.  In fact, my plan is to do one load maybe 3 times a week instead of all my laundry at once.\n\nAugust 11, 2015.  After working well for almost a year, it quit.  A small-diameter belt that turns the drum from the turning motor has broken. Contacted customer service via phone, was told to complete the website form, which I did, and then waited almost a week for a \"technician\" to call me.  He said they don't come to fix things, but by then I had determined I needed a belt, which he said would be sent.  It is now two weeks later, and despite calls and emails, have not received it.  I can't call this good customer service.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1936, "id": 380902, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 229, "len_tokens": 306, "text": "This is part of an email I wrote to technical support for this appliance. ....I recently returned an Emerson portable ice maker. It was an \"out of the box\"  failure.. I purchased it to replace a Koldfront which I have had for less than a year before it crashed.....same machine., but marketed under 2 different names!!!!!!!!  You were kind enough to send me a replacement ice case, which I installed over the course of 2.5 hours to fix the Koldfront!!!  It was working fine for about 90 minutes until the blinking red ice light started up....Nowhere in the troubleshooting instructions provided with the machine is a dreaded blinking red light indicated....You sent me pages of instructions to attempt to correct the problem.....The problem is still there...Folks, I can't  make repairing this machine my life's goal.....  It is not an issue of money....It is principle....This  product is extremely poor quality.........A warranty of 90 days for function.....attests to the poor quality of this appliance....attesting furthermore to MANUFACTURER'S lack of confidence in the product ...... I would love to have said that Compact Appliance (Edgestar?) support is wonderful.  Alas, that is not the case.....If you can't fix it yourself after 90 days you are out of luck.....Perhaps a simple mailing label to return the item would have gone a long way for customer support for an otherwise poor appliance!!!!\nSave your money....", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1937, "id": 57949, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 287, "len_tokens": 327, "text": "Overall I like the the cleaning system, but next time I would do it a little slower and sooner. I had not cleaned the dryer vent since it was installed over eight years ago, and should have done it at least once a year. I had about a 20' run with two elbows. Because there was so much lint, apparently the shop vac did not suck all the lint out and caused a big build up at the first elbow, which I did not realize. I used a 19 volt drill and started on the outside with the shop vac inside. When I put some pressure on the drill, the shaft twisted like a pretzel. I was able to stop right away, but had I not, it would have ripped the duct. I was able to slowly untwist the shaft by hand and pull it out. I could not reverse the drill because the shaft would ripped the duct and might have detached at the various extensions even though I had used duct tape. I figured it twisted because I had such a long run to the first elbow. I then started on the inside with the vaccum outside. As soon as I reached that same elbow, the shaft twisted like a pretzel again. I turned on the dryer and noticed no air was going through. I then used a leaf blower from the inside to force the blockage out. The ball of lint was fairly large and compact, and wet too, and that was probably why it didn't get sucked out. After that, I ran the brush thru again and the vent pipe looked spotless. Next time I will clean it at least once a year!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1938, "id": 139121, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 277, "len_tokens": 325, "text": "About a week or so after Thanksgiving, one of the baffle in my front loader washer snapped off.  It happened at a very unfortunate time, as my husband and I just threw a Thanksgiving dinner and finished our holiday shopping...meaning we were in no budget to replace our old washer for a new one.  I was so frustrated and stressed that I didn't know what to do.  After taking a few deep breaths, I decided to look up parts for my washer model on Sears.  I was filled with relief when I found the part.  Although, it was a bit pricy for a set of three, it beat having to replace the whole washer as it still ran fine.\n\nAfter finding the part and part number, I was determined to find either the most affordable price or the store that would delivery it to my door the fastest (as I was in the middle of doing my laundry).  After doing multiple specialty webstore price comparisons and calling multiple local stores only to find out that they costed about the same and would take a week or two to arrive, I decided to search Amazon.  I was so thankful to see that Amazon carried the part!  As a prime member, I got the baffles in 2-days.  The best part, it was almost half the price of the other stores.\n\nI am extremely please with this purchase.  After watching a quick washer baffle installation video on YouTube, my husband was able to replace all our baffles with the new ones within an hour.  Best purchase ever when you are definitely not ready to say goodbye to your washer!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1939, "id": 26664, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 165, "len_tokens": 338, "text": "I've never used one of these before.  Honestly, I've never done too much \"plumbing\" of any kind.  However, this kit makes it extremely easy for even the most amateur DIY'er!  Comes with everything you need to tap into any existing water pipe you might have.  I had a PVC, so I shut off my water and pre drilled a 1/4 hole.  Fit perfectly over the open area (the included rubber seal is MUCH larger than 1/4, so you should be good for bigger holes, though I wouldn't recommend it) and screwed right on where I needed.  The included water line was over twice what I needed, so that was good.  I combined this with a&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Ultra-High-Capacity-Universal-Inline-Fridge-and-Icemaker-Filter-Fridge-Pure-MAX-THREE-YEARS-5-000-gal-by-Nahla-Pure-LONGER-lasting-no-maintenance-Removes-99-99-of-contaminants-Made-in-the-USA/dp/B00UC616V4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Ultra High Capacity Universal Inline Fridge and Icemaker Filter: Fridge Pure MAX (THREE YEARS/5,000 gal) by Nahla Pure. LONGER lasting, no maintenance. Removes 99.99% of contaminants. Made in the USA.</a>&nbsp;to ensure that no dirt/sediments make it into my ice maker.  Again, simple as it could be!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1940, "id": 463060, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 267, "len_tokens": 305, "text": "First of all the description stated the depth was 24 inches - it is not.  I needed the 24 inches to fit in an existing cut out on my corian counter.  So now it is to short and leaves a one inch gap.  The burners are set in a way that is not conducive to my cooking needs.  Two of the bigger burners are located in front - so when I need the back three burners I have to reach over the big pots to get to them.  Does not work.  They should have put one smaller burner in front - I know why they do this because the pots are really big and they are easier to put on the stove in front so you are not lifting heavy pots - but I don't like it.  The burners only have three settings - High - Medium and Low.  There is no simmer or warm - so sometimes the flames are to high for my cooking needs.  When you turn the front left or front right burner on and you have a pot on the burner the flame shoots out and can burn you.  I am very disappointed in this stove top - if I had known it was not going to fit my cutout I never would have purchased this item.  I searched for months trying to find one that would fit my cutout and was so excited when I found one.  So since it does not fit my cutout and was twice as much as similar ones I would never buy this item.  Very disappointed!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1941, "id": 548596, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 290, "len_tokens": 370, "text": "Pricey...BUT, AMAZING!  Worth the $$.  This unit replaced our 16 year old cooktop that I had cracked with the suction of a large dome lid.  We even used a portable induction unit for a while until we decided which type of heat source to purchase.... We ultimately picked this item because of the touch controls/no knobs, the placement of the burners, the rapid boil burner, the lockout feature, AND because while the induction burner that we tried out was nice, the limited ability of using all my expensive pots and pans was very frustrating!  This item was packed and delivered so well!  My 13 year old daughter and I installed the cooktop into the counter....easy! Fits perfect!  My husband had it wired in 20 minutes!  At first it looked too pretty to cook on...I got over that quick. Heat controls are very precise, this radiant cooktop throws out a lot more heat than our original GE cooktop from year 2000.  I can't wait to use every burner for a huge meal.  I have been able to clean it easily with my glass microfiber cloth...cleans up streakfree and beautiful!  I did order a black silicone oven mat/liner/trivet to protect the finish a bit while it is not in use...I tend to set my large roaster pans on the cooktop area when I pull them out of the oven to serve.  I would suggest verifying the cutout dimesions by googling the actual cooktop sku product specs pdf...sometimes product descriptions get confusing and conflicting.\nBtw...I did price this exact model at the big box stores and this seller still beat their sale price by a few hundred bucks and I recieved the products 12 days sooner than ordering online with big box store.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1942, "id": 188288, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 232, "len_tokens": 308, "text": "I purchased a brand new house and this was to be the \"upgraded\" dishwasher with the \"upgraded\" price.  I did not choose it, it was already installed.  I have used this less than 20 times and I already hate it. It has the cheap plastic tub.  The utensil caddy is 1/2 useless.  One-half of it is located directly underneath the soap containers which does not allow you to put large utensils in it.  Bowls do not want to stand up in their allocated slot, they just fall over.  I can't get the filter out even though I follow the directions.  I don't want to force it, afraid I'll break it.  The biggest complaint is it DOES NOT clean even the least dirty dishes.  I have had to hand wash many items.  My old dishwasher (Frigidaire) would clean dishes that sat for days, even at 10 years old and I never prewashed anything.  Not this one, it doesn't clean \"fresh\" dirt. I use the econonmy cycle which takes 1 1/2 hours just to wash. That is not economy.  I saw this exact dishwasher at Lowe's and when I saw the price, it is not a high end dishwasher.  The ONLY reason this got 2 stars is because it is quiet. I will put up with it for awhile but it will have a short life span with me.  I do not recommend this.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1943, "id": 122286, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 242, "len_tokens": 303, "text": "These are very poorly made.  I have now purchased 3 sets of these drip pans,  and all failed.\n\nI am not sure how long the first set lasted.  I purchased and put on my stove, and went on an extended trip.  I had a house-sitter (who was extremely careful and clean with all other items in the house) and when I came home, one of the pans had the finish chipping off and showing about 4 inches of the black material underneath.  I figured she had dripped something hard on the stove, but now I'm thinking she did nothing wrong.\n\nI ordered a second set to replace the chipped pan.  One of the four pans arrived already chipped, with a chip over 1 inch long.  Returned, and ordered a third set.  It arrived today, and sadly, one of the pans was again chipped.  This time the coating has already flaked off along the rim of the pan, over 6 inches long.\nThese are not minor defects, anyone could see these from across the room, and the defect is along the very top of the drip pan, so it's not hidden at all under the burner.  The whitish enamel coating seems to be very brittle, and my guess is that the slightest bump (or perhaps even scrubbing with a little effort) will cause this again, and again.\n\nIt's too bad, because they fit my stove perfectly, and the ones without flaws look gorgeous.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1944, "id": 469278, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 322, "len_tokens": 374, "text": "I would like to recommend that you not buy this dishwasher.  It is supposed to be higher end, but we had trouble with it almost from the start.  We had trouble with pink and black mold growth in it and despite everything I tried, there is a fabric or mesh area at the back bottom of the dishwasher that grew mold, and there is no way to take it out and clean it.\n\nAlso, within months of installing it, we had trouble with the rinse aid dispenser.  It did not work despite being set on the highest setting. We were having problems with food residue being stuck in glasses in the upper rack and the glasses were not clean. Eventually, the rinse aid dispenser must have started working because it started letting us know it needed to be refilled. Before that it would go six months and not need to be refilled.  However, even when the rinse aid worked, the dishes weren't any cleaner.\n\nFinally, at just four years old, we noticed the food residue was even worse, and the soap wasn't coming out of the dispenser.  On taking a closer look, two of the four washes weren't working.  The dishwasher was not bringing any water in for some of them, so you would just hear the motor chugging away, but open it to *not* see water swishing, but only some steam coming up from the hot element, and the dish soap just stuck in the dispenser.  We talked with the local repair company but determined due to the cost of a visit that it was unlikely to be a cheap fix, so since there is only a one year warranty on this dishwasher, we have bought a new dishwasher from a different manufacturer.\n\nThe new dishwasher is much less expensive, and we are getting used to having clean dishes again!  I would recommend you not waste your money on this dishwasher.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1945, "id": 457551, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 260, "len_tokens": 356, "text": "The only reason I rated Whirlpool with 1 star is because it wouldn't let me give them a zero.  We purchased a Whirlpool Sidekick pair in 2009.  They fit the space in our kitchen where we had previuosly had separate Amana frigerator and freezer unts.  They had lasted 20 years until the fridge finally started showing its age.  The Sidekicks seemed like a perfect thing, they fit the space and nicely matched each other.  They had much more fridge space which was also great.  What a mistake!  The fridge started not cooling well when it was a little over 3 years old and was completely unable to cool within a few months.  I've had a Whirlpool authorized repairman here and it will cost between $825 and $1100 to repair a 4-year old refigerator that cost about that amount orginally.  Whirlpool makes a substandard product and then refuses to stand behind it.  Their customer support people just parrot the same insincere apology and ask if there is anything else they can do even though they haven't done anything to help me in the first place.  I don't know which is worse, the shoddy quality of the Whirlpool product or Whirlpool's unwillingness to stand behind their product.  NEVER BUY ANYTHING FROM WHIRLPOOL!  The cheap fridge in our garage and the cheap fridge in our basement are both much better than our $2500 Whirlpool.  Also be careful because Whirpool manufactures other some other brands such as Kenmore and Kitchen Aide.  After what they've done to me, I won't trust them under any name.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1946, "id": 273780, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 288, "len_tokens": 363, "text": "This has been our only cooktop for over 2 months now, and while I initially was very pleased with it, the warts have shown.  It has a poor air intake, so it has been \"erroring out\" on all temperature settings occasionally as it \"overheats\"... the only solution seems to be letting it (and your food) cool down for a while, keep it away from a wall or anything behind it or to the sides of it, and try again.  So while it's footprint is somewhat large already, having to keep this space clear makes this item enormous for a single burner.  In addition it is pretty much good for large volumes on high heats, that will be done within 2 hours.  DO NOT try to simmer a stock, or soup, or whatever on this for an evening.  It will just keep turning itself off after 2 hours.  As to the \"high heats only\"... pretty simple, it won't maintain a temperature within it's lowest 4 settings, meaning that you NEED to use a diffuser, set this at a higher temperature, and hope it will stay regular.  Otherwise it cycles off and on, causing scorching during it's 'on' cycle and of course functionally being 'off' on the other portion of these cycles.  Since I bought this to help with canning this summer/fall, both of these cause problems that a propane burner can overcome :/...\nThe only positive I can really think of is that is does have a lot of power, if you can get it to remain on.  I've been using this in a fairly cold tiny house, and I can't imagine what it's going to be like using this on 90+ degree days, if it will even work.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1947, "id": 399710, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 326, "len_tokens": 398, "text": "I live in a condo, 5 floors above its laundry room.  Our elevator was about to be taken out of service for replacement for 3+ months.  I didn't want to have to take bulky laundry up and down stairs, so I did some research and settled on this Della for my needs in this period.  4 months later, I am pleased with my purchase.  I have used it for all sorts of items: twin sized sheets and blankets, towels, and regular clothing. I hang my damp clothes on a wooden drying rack after I am finished. After the first two loads, I got used to this smaller, but wonderful machine. A couple of observations: 1. Everything but my blankets fits into the spin dryer, so larger items like these, I hang wet over the towel rack over my bath tub. 2. I think our water is on the hard side, as some of my items came out a little on the stiff side when completely dry.  Adding a little fabric softener to the rinse has basically taken care of this issue.  3. It's great for the specialty loads too, like colors that will run. The Della's drainage is great, so you don't have to worry about rinse water from these kinds of loads, blending with the load done afterwards.\n\nI also had trouble attaching the hose for incoming water, but I just pour buckets of water into the wash side, enough to wash the load I am doing.  The draining hose is already connected by the manufacturer, so there are no problems with that. All in all, this has served me well for the past 4+ months and I am ditching my condo's laundry room, and will continue to use the Della, although the elevator is now fully installed and functioning.  I don't know why I waited so long to get one of these small washers.  The Della is perfect for my day to day needs.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1948, "id": 88558, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1949, "id": 57605, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 291, "len_tokens": 350, "text": "Worked Great!! My house has a dryer exhaust vent booster fan that was never wired in by the builder.  My house is 10 years old, when I discovered that my dryer exhaust ducts were completely clogged around the booster fan.  The dryer vent ducts looked like a clogged artery...  with about 1\" of lint along the walls of the duct work.  My vent has two 90 degree turns and spans about 29\" to exit the roof. I started in the attic and seperated the duct work by the booster fan. With the extension pack, I was able to clean going both directions.  The Lint Eater tool worked extremely well, and is very smartly done.  I hooked a shop vacuum on one end and turned on the dryer.  The amount air flow created to suck the lint out was tremendous. Follow the instructions and the tool will work exactly as intended. At first I thought the brush was small, but realized that helps make the turns through the duct work. I used electric tape on rods and tightened the rods finger tight and had no problems. I clutched my cordless drill down (put dial setting by the drill chuck on 5). I ran the drill at slow speed, and then bumped it up when I felt like the majority of the lint had been removed from the section was completed.  My theory was that is wanted scrub the walls of the ducts.  I purchased from Lowes because I was desperate, but Amazon would have been $10 cheaper. I removed at least 3 gallons of lint from the dryer exhaust duct work.  Now this tool will be used once a year to improve dryer efficiency and reduce the risk of a fire.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1950, "id": 157727, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 283, "len_tokens": 367, "text": "I purchased this item about one year ago to fix my Whirlpool oven model SF362LXSQ 30\" Accubake which was not igniting or heating up. I also purchased two other components because I didn't want to waste my time taking the oven apart to find out it was something else so I purchased these two additional parts all from Amazon: Whirlpool 8054129 Oven Igniter for Range and Whirlpool 9758079 Oven Igniter for Range. I replaced all three parts in my Whirlpool model and so far, one year later, the oven is working perfectly. I had the Whirlpool oven for about 4 years before the broiler died (1st thing to die) and I ignored it because I could live without the feature. Then three years later the oven won't ignite so I couldn't bake (2nd thing to die). This time, I had to do something because unlike broiling, I actually need to be able to bake to make pizzas in the oven. I researched online about what could be the cause and read about solenoid and amperage issues. I checked each solenoid for 216 Ohms resistance (Broil to Common and Bake to Common). I did find that one of the solenoid was defective. If any one is defective neither will operate and the gas valve/regulator has to be replaced. By replacing them all, I avoided the hassle of having to go a day without an oven to make dinner. As stated earlier, my oven is still running fine one year later so I would say that this was a wise investment. It arrived very quickly and is a genuine replacement part. I would definitely recommend this item and would give it 5.0/5.0. -09/23/2014", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1951, "id": 489536, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 240, "len_tokens": 302, "text": "First, the is a review of the LG dryer, not of the seller.\n\nI've owned this LG dryer for 8 months now, and it functions (mostly) okay.  All things considered, it is over-priced for the features that we use.  I didn't find the steam function effective at all and ended up using an iron on the items I tried.  The moisture sensor routinely stops the dryer early even when adjusted to dry longer.  The moisture sensor is only reliable for items of the same density (all towels, etc.)\n\nMy major complaint is with LG customer service.  The white paint is peeling away from the entrance for the clothes (right next to the lint trap), exposing metal beneath. These little white chips of paint end up in my clothes.  I contacted LG customer service.  They told me this was a \"cosmetic\" issue and would not be covered under warranty. After speaking to a \"manager\", they agreed to send a technician out to look at it... who charged $78 to tell me the same thing.  This dryer is not inexpensive, I expect better quality in this price range.  I've had a handful of dryers over the past 20+ years (cheaper than this one), and I've never had an issue like this.  At issue here is the \"cosmetic\" label, which gets LG out of warranty coverage.\n\nBased on this experience with LG customer service, I will not be purchasing an LG appliance again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1952, "id": 512080, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 267, "len_tokens": 339, "text": "Though these appliances are a lovely addition to my kitchen, they do not last.  I have had numerous service calls on 3 of my 4 Frigidaire Gallery appliances.  Because they were older than 1 year, the customer service was of no help whatsoever.  My disappointment has not only been with these poorly made appliances, but the fact that the customer service clearly does not care about their customers.  The oven over heats when the self clean is run and shuts the whole machine down.  There is a reset button, but it is well hidden under the back panel which must be removed if it is to be reset.  The technician that fixed it said that this is a normal issue and to never run the self clean.  He also said that if the owners remove the back and reset the button, any warranty would be void.  The dishwasher started sounding like fingernails on a chalkboard when in the wash and rinse cycle.  It was unbearable.  Frigidaire customer service said that I'd have to pay for repairs myself because the dishwasher was 2 whole years old... I guess that's ancient for a Frigidaire.  The ice maker on the refrigerator never worked correctly and finally stopped working.  It has been repaired with Frigidaire parts twice, at my expense.  Again, the refrigerator was \"old\" at 2 years.  The technician who fixed it both times said that these ice maker ALWAYS fail.  Customer service is a nightmare.  Poor quality product, poor customer service.  My technician also said he likes Whirlpool... they are much more dependable.... wish I had gone with them.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1953, "id": 182766, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 265, "len_tokens": 331, "text": "January 2019\nUpdate. I still love the range. However a purchase is more than the product. It is also the customer service behind the product. After my worst customer experience of my life with repair I now I see why GE receives  poor customer service ratings on line. Will find a third party vendor next time. Never will I buy a GE product again.\n\nAfter looking at numerous reviews; including those at Amazon. I concur fully with the reviewer-\" Meet Jane Jetson- Love this Range\" This George Jetson Loves it Too!\n\nMade in USA; flexiblity of gas; energy efficent; oven retains heat.\n\nMy recommendation to all-take time to read the manual.\n\nI agree the oven takes longer to eat up; but with convection on we got great homemade chocolate chip cookies and bread. Good looking range.\nYes we had to buy new cookware. All Clad D5 (non-stick and regular and made in USA); Swiss Diamond. But well worth it.\n\nAfter 3 months still very happy.\nLock out control helps to clean control area; Al clad pots allow smaller diameter pot on 11 inch element; yes oven slow to heat up; but once it heats up it retains the heat in the range.\n\nUsed the probe-the way to roast! Followed directions and the chicken came out moist and done. No more worries about how long to cook; use the probe and the internal temperature you selected. Would like the probe cord longer but not critical.\n\nIt even survived an overflow in the oven. What a mess; had to use diluted de-greaser then activate the self-cleaning.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1954, "id": 552194, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 274, "len_tokens": 323, "text": "Frigidaire has a one month from buying warranty, we were rehabbing a condo so did not use for six months after buying.  I can not believe this stove was allowed into our country from China.  It is dangerous:  the front knobs turn when you reach over to get something out of the microwave or happen to lean against, just enough to turn on the gas so if you don't catch it immediately when you turn on a burner the flames will actually shoot to the middle of the kitchen.  This is very scary & dangerous for elderly, children or anyone.  We had service out twice because of the burner flames were shooting around the pots and pans even on low the flame is uneven and will not even boil water.  The spacing of burners is such that only the mid size pots or pans will sit on them without over lapping the useless middle oval burner grate.  To clean you must lift each heavy grate on to the other and you are dealing with three grates.  This is the stove from hell!  The actual temperature when the ding-ding goes off is not the temperature you have the setting, it is a five minute time so you must have to buy a independent thermometer.  We had the gas company out to check the gas intake into the condo, it was a perfect pressure. There were streaks between the oven door glass after a couple uses and this was considered normal wear by Frigidaire.  The service will only allow two free service calls that we used to no avail.  I will not buy any Frigidaire Appliance.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1955, "id": 112007, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 281, "len_tokens": 331, "text": "This refrigerator looks beautiful, it is a great size if you are looking for a counter depth refrigerator. However, after only four years our beautiful stainless steel refrigerator stopped working. I wasn't too worried at first because I remembered something about a warranty. I called LG only to find out that only PARTS are covered under the warranty- not labor. So, in order to fix my refrigerator we would need to spend nearly $400 in labor. We went ahead and had the repair done- we didn't have another 2K to spend on a new unit. The refrigerator never worked well again. The \"fix\" to the problem was to put a switch on the compressor so it wouldn't over heat- only to have our refrigerator and freezer defrosting every few days until the compressor kicked in and started cooling again. We had to put up with this defrosting issue for another two years until today when it finally died for good. Now, out of warranty LG tells me they can do nothing about it- except for send out a repair tech- which they will charge us for. I'm not willing to spend another dime on this refrigerator. We never should have spent the money on the \"warranty\" repair (If you could call spending $400 to fix it a warranty). Really, we should never have bought an LG in the first place. I know the good deal may look tempting... and it really is a pretty refrigerator... but this thing will only last you a few years. After that- it is just a big, fat, worthless piece of garbage. Run away fast from an LG appliance. I will never buy one again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1956, "id": 329735, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 284, "len_tokens": 334, "text": "I've been running this thing almost 24/7 for nearly 7 months now and it's still working like a champ, it's not super easy to clean out though, and I'm not 100% sure if they have a replacement filter, not looked for one yet but I think it's about time ..\n\nIt makes nice sized cubes, it does several at a time which takes a few minutes.. It's not exactly something for a party unless you only have a few people, but I use it in my home office and keep it on top of a mini fridge so it's perfect.  It is larger than you might expect, but that's ok, it works out fine for me..  It's a great product!\n\nI have seen others say theirs failed not long after getting it but obviously that's not my experience..  the only thing is if you leave it on and the cubes fill up, it stops of course, and it won't start again until the ice melts down enough for more to come in, that can result in a big chunk of ice from all the cubes melting together.. if that happens you have to go in and break them apart.. not really a problem, more or less expected with something like that ..\n\nNevertheless, I absolutely love it for my home office, it saves me having to jaunt down a  flight of steps and through 3 rooms to get to the fridge in the kitchen area just for a couple of ice cubes...\n\nI also wish it were a bit easier to clean, you can't easily get to some of the areas.. so I wish it were a bit more \"modular\" and accessible for that", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1957, "id": 211037, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 279, "len_tokens": 311, "text": "So far I love this little machine. I didn't give it five stars because it may be leaking at times but I'm not certain as I have been filling it with a bucket & my have spilled the water myself. I will update this review if it is a leaking problem.\nAs far as  how it works, it's a great little machine. It washes everything good & the spin dryer is fantastic, the clothes are barely damp when taken out. The hose attachment doesn't fit my faucet so it's a pain to fill it up by hand so I need to find some way of addressing this issue. I have not had a problem with lint as many reviewers have complained about & I washed a whole hamper full of towels & no lint remined on the towels or on any other clothes I've washed. I did however put an old nylon stocking  over the pump hose because lots of lint went down the drain & I don't want clogged drains & also I put a small screen over the drain opening.\nIf I don't have leaking problems then I will upgrade this rating to 5 stars because it's a great little washing machine for anyone in an apartment  looking to save money. As mentioned in other reviews you have to stay by it especially when draining but I set it to wash & walk away until it finishes but since it doesn't drain automatically you don't have to worry about rushing back to it since you set the drain option. It uses very little detergent & water & I plan to get my daughter one for her apartment.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1958, "id": 125352, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 254, "len_tokens": 307, "text": "I am of Hispanic origin; have a lot of hair and my hair is very thick and straight, prone to frizzing a lot. My sister owns a similar hairdryer of a different brand (not available in the US) which I tried and loved. I don't have a lot of patience for fixing my hair, and I could get it dry and somewhat styled (like a blowout) in about 10 minutes. That's what I was hoping to get when I ordered this product, but I was sorely disappointed.\n\nI was aware that 900W was not going to get very hot, but the biggest problem is actually with the brush. It does not get though my hair at all. The hair stays on the surface of the brush, and then gets all tangled up when the brush starts to spin. I tried working on very thin clumps of hair, but that didn't work either, and kind of defeated the purpose of saving time. Then I tried drying it first with a regular hairdryer (1875W) and used this one only for styling. That helped, but my hair looked only OK afterwards (kind of limp), still tangled, took a long time and the roots were still a little wet in the end. Very frustrating.\n\nIf I didn't know that there was a better product out there, I would have assumed that I wasn't working it properly. But it's just not a very good product for me and I wouldn't recommend it for people with my kind of hair.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1959, "id": 542059, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 287, "len_tokens": 337, "text": "The worst appliance purchase I ever made. There have been constant ice maker issues.  The cooling component had to be replaced before we even had it for 3 months. It is freezing produce.  The most aggravating part is the cheap quality of the plastic. Every door assembly has broken at least once and the \"CoolSelect Pantry\" drawer has broken several times.  The wheels broke off and carved ragged gouges in the base of the unit so that even with a replacement drawer it won't glide well.  The repair persons just put thick duct tape over it and called it fixed. Not even a month later the tape was split putting more pressure on the already unstable and weak-wheeled drawer so it broke again  Service was great at first.  People came to fix things and parts came in the mail so I bit my tongue over the shoddy product but...a few months before my warranty was up I was informed that it didn't include \"cosmetic\" repairs and they had been sending me replacement shelves as a courtesy.  Apparently shelves are cosmetic components of a refrigerator and I need to pay $50-$250 per shelf/drawer but they will fix the ice maker for the third time.\nI have several children but they are older.  They aren't swinging on the doors or climbing up the shelves like they used to ;) We don't over stuff the doors and we have bins to organize all the different foods and small items. I can't see any reason why this product has failed so often except that Samsung needs to stick to tech that changes every few months until they learn more about the durability needed for daily use and chose better quality material.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1960, "id": 546476, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 324, "len_tokens": 384, "text": "This really was the only range hood that fit our slim fit requirements.  Yes, we had to do a little creative cabinetry to fit the motor in the cabinet.  And the wall mounting and cabinet mounting could have been a bit more robust.  The exterior portion really flexes a little and we had to drill a couple of additional mounting holes so it didn't sag.  Occasionally the motor makes a little noise but a little whack on the motor shuts it up...I am sure a little realignment would help.\n\nNoise: yeah, no matter what you do, moving that much air is gonna be noisy.  That being said, we were just happy to have an exhaust vent and tolerate the noise.  We have a direct vertical 6\" round exhaust through the roof so there are no restrictions.  If you use the highest setting, you will need to crack a window if your kitchen is small.  That speaks well of its ability to move volumes of air.\n\nThe unit looks nice and performs well.  We really have found no need for the lights so we don't know whether we might have the same issue as others.  The filters are easily cleaned.\n\nBased on code calculations, I think this also is one of the few units that pulls the required CFM for our new stove.  I can't remember how I came up with those calculations but a Google search will do you well.\n\nThe reason I rated this 4 instead of 5 stars is because the mounting could have been better designed with some extra mounting locations for fasteners.\n\nOne really nice thing is that their instructions are available online.\n\nThe finish seems very nice and the buttons feel good.  It's a little slow to start if you start it on the Quiet setting.\n\nThat being said, despite the small flaws, an enterprising person with the need for a super-slim installation should do well with this unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1961, "id": 395013, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 273, "len_tokens": 372, "text": "We bought this on June 2nd, 2017.  And here, almost a year later, I wanted to say that we LOVE THIS MACHINE!  And I would recommend to everyone.\n\nIt makes plenty of ice for two people.  We've become greedy, ice queens, filling every glass to the brim with tasty, tasty ice.  It is not crunchy ice, but it is kinda crunchable.  Unless you are making a glass of ice water, then the water does something to the ice cubes and they do become soft and crunchy.\n\nWe make our ice from the PUR filtered water.  And my cousin puts a cap full of peroxide in the leftover water each night, and we've had no problems with bacteria or mold.  And we use this DAILY.  The on-off doesn't quite work, but just unplug it at night-time, and that works just fine.\n\nBest wishes.  If you love ice, GET IT.\n\nUpdate: 6-4-18\nHOW TO MAKE CRUNCHY ICE\nFor grown-ups, at least.  We have been putting about an 8th of a cup of plain vodka in our ice water lately, to help keep things bacteria-free.  Do note that the instructions say not to put alcohol in the machine.  This tiny amount doesn't seem to hurt anything, at least not yet.  BUT ... the ice comes out soft and crunchy.  Try it with caution.\n\nI'll update if anything has happened to our machine.  If nothing happens by Dec 18, I'll update again to say so.\n\nIt's not December, it's Early September, but it's still cranking out crunchy ice.  And the recipe is about 1 tbs of vodka to 6 cups of water.  I'll update again in December.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1962, "id": 9138, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 257, "len_tokens": 310, "text": "I bought this machine to make my wife's life a little earsier. She used to hand wash our baby's clothes separately because she believed that would be better for the baby. I can not argue with her so I went online and found this HLP mini washing machine. The machine arrived and we used it happily for 9 months, washing our baby's clothes every other day until the pump stopped working. I did a research online and read all those horror stories about Haier America's customer service. I did not have too much hope for this machine however I just give it a try anyway to see it Haier can repair the machine or send me a replacement one. I called the customer service number and spoke to a  rep in a couple of minutes. He was very helpful. He only asked me several questions about the machine then said Haier will send me a replacement. What I need to do was to collect the power cord, serial number tag, invoice (printed from Amazon) and a check of $14.99 for the Fedex shipping. I send these in a certified mail to Warranty Exchange of Haier America in Fords, New Jersey. Today I received a brand new machine! It is a HLP21N instead of HLP21E purchased. I just tried the machine and it works great! Compare to HLP21E, this new model is much quieter, and there is no linen filter to install. I am so happy for the machine and for their excellent customer services. Great job! Haier!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1963, "id": 210932, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 295, "len_tokens": 350, "text": "My little machine arrived this afternoon - and I've been doing laundry like crazy since! It works like a dream. The clothes come out very clean, in no time at all - I've only used 5-6 minutes agitation per wash, and that has been more than sufficient. The little spinner is small, true, but it works very well. Generally you can do one load in two spins, so it's not that bad.\n\nThe only thing I don't like is the hose - it slips off my faucet if I turn the water on full blast, so it takes forever to fill up. I've been using a bucket to save time, but I'm going to look for a hose that fits my faucet better.\n\nTo rinse, I simply turn the water on while it's draining, let it run through the clothes, then turn off the drain and fill it with water to cover, put it back on wash and let it agitate a bit, then drain that. The first load, I had to do this twice to get all the soap out, but I used too much soap. You don't need but a tiny bit, and you should use the low-suds soap for HE machines. That will save you a lot of time that you would spend rinsing.\n\nAll in all, this is a super buy. I already saved at least $6 just this afternoon by doing my clothes at home.\n\nIt's the next best thing to a full-sized machine. I had been using one of those plunger thingies to wash clothes by hand, and it was a huge pain in my rear. This is much better, and the machine is compact and adorable. I am so pleased - today is like Christmas at my house!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1964, "id": 26203, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 200, "len_tokens": 320, "text": "The ID (inside diameter) at the connectors is about 3/16 of an inch.  That is less than a quarter inch opening.  It will take forever to fill my Kenmore washing machine.  Yes - the coupling will screw on to the washing machine but that tiny hole that the water has to pass through on each end will slow down the flow of water (amount per minute) in the washer significantly.  The pressure will remain the same but the amount of water per minute to fill the machine will be reduced radically.  It will take about twice as long as normal to fill my Kenmore washer.  There are two fill cycles and the rinse cycle so the whole process of laundry will take about twice as long.\n  This is like filling a swimming pool with a drinking straw - it will take forever.  I purchased&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Certified-Appliance-WM60SS2PK-Washing-Machine-Hose-2-Pack-60-34-Stainless-Steel/dp/B01BRU4VCO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Certified Appliance WM60SS2PK Washing Machine Hose (2 Pack), 60\", Stainless Steel</a>&nbsp;and found that they have a 5/16 opening which will fill my machine a little faster than the Kenmore hoses it came with.\nOddly enough they are all made in China (naturally!) but the hose from Certified are considerably better made and heftier.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1965, "id": 420945, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 310, "len_tokens": 363, "text": "This fit my LG refrigerator filter, perfectly (manual # 5231JA2006A).  This replacement is far better than many of the undersized competitors.  It's a full size replacement.  At almost ha;f the price but still meeting all the NSF certified certifications, it's really a no brainier to go this way.  Purchasing the brand name filter usually runs me about 40 bucks. This works just as well at a fraction of the cost. It fit perfectly and was super easy to install and makes our water taste great. I'm never paying full price for my water filter ever again.\n\nInstall and then run three to five gallons through it and you're good to go (do this anytime you replace a filter.  Water is crisp and clear, as well as ice produced from the inline machine.  I am also on a well system, so my water is treated before it gets to my until, this filter helps reduce any reside from my well system.\n\nI received this product at a discounted rate in exchange for my unbiased and honest review. I test every product before reviewing. My experience may not match every other reviewers but my experiences are what I base the reviews on. If you felt I was helpful, please click yes below. If not, please comment and offer suggestion on how I can improve my review for you\n\nPlease keep in mind, that although I received this product at a discounted rate in exchange for my unbiased and honest review and I do truly test every product before reviewing, there for my review is based solely on my person experiences which may vary from user to user.\n\nIf you felt that my review was in any way helpful to you, please click yes below. If not, please comment and offer suggestion on how I can improve my reviews in the future.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1966, "id": 100053, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 288, "len_tokens": 332, "text": "Buying this had a dual value for me. First it is a great off the grid solution but I also needed something to wash my delicates in that didn't take the time that hand washing takes. I've done two loads in this now and I'm actually impressed. I put my clothes in and washed them. Needless to say that it took 3 washes to get all of the soap residue out from previous washes in a machine. To test that I was actually seeing residue from previous washes, I also did a load of \"clean\" clothes that were hanging in my closet. Same results so if you're concerned that this will actually clean your clothes, it will.\n\nIt says it will hold 5 lbs of clothing, but honestly I would not fill it up completely. It is small so doing that would very likely prevent your clothing from tumbling freely and getting clean. I was able to wash 6 pair of plus sized leggings in one load with no issues.\n\nFor folks who are saying that their clothing is sopping wet, of course it is. You just washed them. Allow your rinse water to drain (tip the unit backwards to help the draining process along) then put the lid back on. Tumble it a few times and drain again. You will be effectively spinning it out. Repeat as many times as you personally feel necessary and hang dry.\n\nAll in all, we will be buying at least one more to have on hand. I feel that doing laundry in an off the grid situation for a family would be hard with only one due to the small size. With two or three though, it would definitely be doable.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1967, "id": 339425, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 333, "len_tokens": 381, "text": "These really work! We have some of the hardest water in the country and most everything fails at controlling mineral deposits, scale, and the white residue that eventually destroys anything that our water touches. I use these in an ultrasonic humidifier and the difference with them in the tank, compared to without them in the tank, is very noticeable. Knowing how hard our water is, I popped both capsules into the tank. The white dust problem caused by ultrasonic humidifiers was the first thing that I noticed wasn't as bad as before the capsules. There is still some white dust but it has been decreased by at least 60%-70%. The other noticeable improvement was how it handles the hard water in general, the scale, minerals, and calcium in the water itself that will kill any device that uses water this hard. What this product does is pretty cool! It looks like these minerals are basically \"Clumped Together\" in larger clumps that settle on the bottom of the tank and the bottom of the humidifiers water channels. By doing this, you can easily just flush out those large clumps from the tank and the inside of the humidifier without having to use stuff like Lime Away to scrub it away. Nothing is going to magically make those minerals just disappear, as they are a part of the water itself, but by doing it this way, the minerals can easily be cleaned out by just doing a really good flush job of the water tank. Plus, there is no smell of any kind from these capsules and they seem to last for 3 or 4 months at a time. All in all I highly recommend these for anyone using hard water in appliances such as humidifiers. You will not skip the need for a regular cleaning of your humidifier, but it's going to be a lot easier cleaning it if you have these awesome little capsules in the tank helping with your hard water problems!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1968, "id": 459305, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 275, "len_tokens": 336, "text": "This range was a dream come true until the first time we used the self cleaning oven feature. After that, temperature control was erratic. Service man said you should never use your vent hood while cleaning, because it draws the heat up into the control panel. Sounds like a MAJOR design flaw! Was still under warranty THIS TIME. Will the electronics cook every time we clean the oven? Service man said to place box fans on the floor drawing the heat away from the oven and its control panel. Again, MAJOR design flaw!\n  Just had the serviceman out for the second time in two weeks. Still heating erratically. He replaced the temperature probe. When testing it following repairs, setpoint: 300 degrees; heated to 405; gradually decayed over 20 minutes to 289 before firing again; then cycled between 275 and 325 (reasonably normal for a gas range?). Apparently, after you turn the oven on, it is best to wait at least 20 minutes (certainly NOT energy efficient)after reaching setpoint before trying to use the oven. Otherwise, you will tend to burn the bottom and not fully cook the top of your food, which was our complaint from the start. Another design issue!\n  After six service calls, the extended warranty people threw in the towel and agreed to give is credit toward a new range. We selected a GE Cafe dual fuel model. It was just delivered. We'll see how well that one does!\n  NOTE: Most positive reviews for this Electrolux model are posted by people who just bought this range. The negative ones appear to be posted by those who have had it longer.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1969, "id": 87578, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1970, "id": 502647, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 250, "len_tokens": 307, "text": "The most arduous part of the process to install this product was trying to make sure that it was compatible with our air conditioner. The instructions on the packaging and the response from the seller we're not very helpful at all. Single phase air conditioner? What is that? Operating volts? We didn't know that there were different kind of volts?\n\nHowever we called Supco and spoke to their technical support and were finally able to determine that this was quite likely compatible with our air conditioner.\n\nThe technical specification label on our AC was very cryptic, to the unitiated, us, however the information is apparently there, as you can see in the picture we uploaded. The number 1 in a square box with the letters PH next to the number 1 apparently mean \"single phase\" and apparently \"volts 208/230\" refer to operating volts. Now we are not saying this is 100% correct as we could possibly have been misinformed.\n\nHowever these are conclusions we arrived at when speaking with the Supco technical support department.\n\nIn addition we were told by Supco technical support that this item is their #1 selling item/hard start kit and is compatible with most residential air conditioners.\n\nIn addition, it's super easy to install, is an extremely inexpensive component and can according to some HVAC pofessionals/experts be the difference between an early demise of one's air conditioner and a long long long healthy life, makes getting this to seem like a no-brainer. But time will tell.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1971, "id": 570484, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 279, "len_tokens": 330, "text": "I bought this expensive washer and dryer to replace ones that lasted 25 years with the hope paying up front would give me the same good service.  For what these cost they are disappointing.  All the bells and whistles of the washer do not seem to improve the outcome so I usually use plain vanilla.  For those who want a lot of options this machine has them.  The only way you get really hot water from the beginning is to use the sanitize setting.  This is an EPA ruling and you will find \"energy\" saving features on all new machines.  The max spin is great for towels, but be aware it will cause clothes to wrinkle so I use a slower spin which is fine.\nThe dryer is my main dislike.  The clothes are thrown forward and revolve in a tight circle near the door and thus really wrinkle and take longer to dry because they are in a tight ball.  I called Electrolux to ask about this.  They were extremely pleasant to deal with and set up a service appointment.  The service man said this was the way it was designed to keep clothes away from the heating element so they won't burn and the exhaust (where the lint screen is located) pulls the clothes forward.  I don't think so!  I showed the service tech with a wet load of wash what happened. He also said that was not right.  What was the supposed fix, raise the front leveling legs to throw the clothes back.  That helped, but did not cure the problem.  In my opinion this is a design failure.  I would not recommend these expensive machines.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1972, "id": 402496, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 327, "len_tokens": 393, "text": "This machine is the manual transmission of washing machines. Even so, it will change your life. How amazing to do laundry at home after going to the laundromat for years!!\n\nAs other reviewers have noted, the hose system has some major flaws. (The hose is actually completely useless.) I was too impatient to go the hardware store for a DIY hose-repair project, and filling the tub with a bucket works just fine.\n\nIf you're going to go with the bucket method, I would recommend dumping a full bucket of water on the clothes in the spin tub and then immediately turning on the spinner to rinse. Do that a couple times until the water coming out the bottom is no longer soapy. Rinsing in the wash tub seemed to take too many drain-and-refill cycles. Also, use about a quarter as much soap as you think you'll need. Getting the soap off was the trickiest part of the whole operation.\n\nSome of the questions about the washer express concerns about the lack of a drain pump - I had absolutely no problem. Set the washer in the bathtub and the water drains right out. You don't need a pump.\n\nThe capacity is surprisingly large. I found that I could fit about half a regular size load in the wash tub, and about 1/3 of that in the spin tub. The spinner only takes 3-4 minutes, so it's not a terrible inconvenience to split the load up to \"dry.\" Next day edit: I actually washed a queen size comforter in the wash tub. Had to take it downstairs to the community dryer to dry, but washing worked wonderfully.\n\nFinal note - you'll need a large clothes drying rack. The clothes come out damp-dry, but they still need a few hours on the drying rack. I originally bought the AmazonBasics Foldable Drying Rack - White, and after one day of laundry I've decided to purchase a more industrial size rack.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1973, "id": 290677, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 294, "len_tokens": 343, "text": "I purchased this FACTORY Kenmore Sears Kirkland Roper Dryer Kit by OEM FSP WHIRLPOOL for my personal use. I have a gas dryer that came with the house I purchased a year and a half ago. It was making all sorts of funny sounds for the last few months. Squealing and buzzing specifically. Funds are limited for us due to my wife being disabled. I didn't want to hire a repairman and pay hundreds of dollars. So I researched the problem. In the end I discovered that the squealing nose was the belt and the buzzing sound were from failing solenoids. So I ordered this product and picked up the solenoids from a local parts store. I watched some DIY videos online and fixed the dryer myself. It took a bit of effort on my part but I did it. This dryer kit was integral to returning our dryer to functional use. I was seriously impressed by the cost. It reflects a more than fair value of the product. And when you consider that a dryer repair man visit usually runs between $300 and $400 where I live that cost is a pittance. It came with instructions and diagrams which were helpful to me during the repair process. The parts are high quality. They weren't hard to install at all. And after all was said and done. After this kit was installed and the solenoids were replaced I now have an amazingly quiet dryer that dries clothes efficiently and completely. I highly recommend this product to other people. My wife and I are so glad that we decided to do this ourselves and we saved so much money doing it!\n\nI paid full price for this item. It was not obtained through a promotion.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1974, "id": 362926, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 252, "len_tokens": 322, "text": "The best arm and chest workout, period. The resistance of two workout clothes and 3 gal. water is great for arm conditioning. No need to push weights and waste money on dumbbells. Let's do the math: 3 gal. water gives you 25 lbs (excluding clothing). Not enough, put down 5 gal water to give you 40+ lbs. Sure, you are not lifting the entire bucket up. But the pressure generated from forcing the air/water through the outlet is enough for you to lift the bucket up. Let's assume u exert the same amount of moment in the push and pull motion. That means if you do this fast, you burst 30lbs * 2s (133 newton) in a distance of 2 inches, which is equivalent of 6 joule or 1.5 calorie. If given 5 minutes of washing time, u can repeat this motion for 100 times (assume 4s/cycle). So u exert at least 225 calories not including consumptions from muscle coordination.\nObviously, u can do this faster and burn more calories. But the importance is the gradual increase in pressure that is similar to resistance training. Above all, u get your daily laundry done. How practical! How come I never heard of this product till I moved into a condo without wash machine? Hauling a bag of laundry in Boston winter is no fun. You spend 5 minutes on clothes every two days and you don't need to visit a laundromat for months. A great time saving invention that is unparalleled.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1975, "id": 281958, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 270, "len_tokens": 314, "text": "I have used this cooler for a few months now and I can say it does the job of bringing cold air from inside the Kegerator up into the tower very well.  i can tell it works because the tap sweats on humid days. Mechanically as with any fan it can get frozen over if left too close to the cooling grates in the kegerator. Especially living in Phoenix keeping the tower cool is essential for cold beer and lower amounts of head, and if it can work this well here it will work anywhere.  The Coldtower works like a charm.\n\nI only have two complaints about the unit and both of them relate to the power chord and switch.  One, the chord and switch are quite short, especially if you run your power for the unit in with the CO2 lines.  Ordinarily this wouldn't be an issue, but while moving the unit slightly the chord ripped out of the switch.  I have since soldered it back in place and gotten an extension chord but its something to be careful about.  My second issue with the power chord is that it would be nice to have an indicator of when the unit is on.  This unit is quiet and it runs on the inside of the kegerator with the switch outside.  The only way to tell its on is to open the door to hear it, or to pop the top off the tower to feel the airflow.\n\nEven with the power chord issues, I would certainly buy this unit again.  I do and have recommended this product to friends.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1976, "id": 87534, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1977, "id": 38964, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 254, "len_tokens": 334, "text": "So far I have only found one thing negative, I couldn't/haven't found any place locally to get the included  2 1/2 pound CO2 tank filled.\n\nThe kegorator comes in one of the best designed shipping boxes I have ever seen for an appliance. Very simple to open and start assembling the kegorator. I've taken longer to open and organize parts for a flashlight packaged in a plastic store display package like you find in stores.\n\nThe thermostat is backed off about 1/6 turn from max to maintain 34F. Max setting took it 29 degrees before I adjusted it up.\n\nInstall the rubber gasket under the tower to make the tower solid. It may take two men and a boy to twist the tower w/gasket into its final position, but worth it. A strap wrench also works well.\n\nVery happy with this item but I would pay an extra $15 and get it with five pound CO2 tank, or pay $25 less and not get any tank.\n\nUPDATE, Jan 9th, 2012\n\nAfter one week and converting from Sankey coupler (standard) to \"Corny\" ball lock couplers and replacing the small gas line with a normal (5/16) size line. I also made a jumper hose to transfer beer from  Sankey commercial kegs to my corny kegs. With the same 12PSI CO2 pressure I get much less foam from the Ball Lock coupler. It is no longer an art form to get a perfect head on your beer. Letting the keg sit in the Keg-O-rator probably help too.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1978, "id": 456242, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 288, "len_tokens": 353, "text": "I own a different LG refrigerator and it worked well until it stopped, but getting service can be impossible. LG products looks very nice. The manufacturer GROSSLY exaggerates the capacities of their fridges. I much prefer my old Amana. Nothing was wrong with my Amana; I bought a new LG because I remodeled my kitchen and wanted the look of a new fridge. Last Friday night at 6:00, I discovered that the food in my refrigerator was getting warm. The thermostat said 37 degrees in the refrigerator and freezer was 0 degrees, but food was warm in the refrigerator and things in the freezer were melting. I started calling appliance repair services. Most were closed at 6 PM but the ones who did answer said, \"Sorry, but we can't work on LG appliances.\" I asked, \"Why not?\" I was told, \"Because LG will NOT ALLOW us to be a part of their service network and LG will NOT let us buy parts.\" The repair services said that they had filled out apps and had been jumping through hoops for LG for 1-2 years without success. Because of LG's policies, I lost about $400-500 worth of food. Today, Monday, the other repair services that I had left messages for Friday night have been returning my calls and ALL OF THEM told me the very same thing!  LG forces customers to call LG and LG sends a repair person who charges 2-3 times the going rate, and LG charges sky high prices for parts. The repair services said to buy a Whirlpool, Amana or Kenmore instead because parts were readily available and less expensive. Whirlpool donates to Habitat for Humanity. GE parts are the highest, except for LG).", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1979, "id": 464874, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 301, "len_tokens": 341, "text": "First of all let me say that Amazon's appliance program is a hit with me. The JB Hunt delivery service was flawless, and the installation folks were very professional and communicated well. I have had installation services from Sears and Home Depot, this program from Amazon was just as good if not better. I would have all the confidence in the world purchasing again.\n\nOn the the range:\n\nThe range itself is nice and simple in many of its features, except the actual stove top. Which is fantastic. The electric flat surface is really nice and is a bit of a \"wow\" thing when you first see it.\n\nI personally had this unit installed in a rental property and the appearance is very \"upscale\" without being too much so.\n\nThe cooking surface is flat with a raised lip to catch liquids that spill and is super easy to keep clean, compared to traditional cooking surfaces.\n\nBecause the old range was hauled away, I couldn't do a completely unbiased \"speed test\" for boiling water (or other tests), but this range does seem to heat just as fast. The oven seems great and the larger window is nice. Although the claim on the extra large window seems a bit misleading ... or at least exaggerated a little .... most ovens now have a larger window compared to the much older units. But not so much compared to most newer units. So take that selling point with a grain of salt. I would not let that be your big buying point on this range.\n\nWhat I would contemplate, is the super slick flat cooking area, coupled with some newer digital features and you have a quality oven that (seems so far) to work great and is also up to date with modern oven technology.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1980, "id": 97888, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 257, "len_tokens": 353, "text": "puechased one june2010, nov stopped making ice called co. wa told to returm to co. sent back at my expense,l i had 5 year warrantee. they kept it one month, returned at my expense, plugged in and did not work called co. was told to get local repair man to fix, di at my expense, blwn compressor, co. shipped new one, repair man put in at my expense, yhat compressor was bad ,called co. they toled me to ship back at my expense told them no. final outcome spent $990.00 for machine, $99.00 for 5 year warrantee, $15.00 box an $78.00 for shipping to co, $200.00for repairman to check out , $200.00 for replacing conpressor,. when iyt was all said and done i used the machine for 6 months had the headaches of all the nonsence whith this machine, got reemburced for the bax,the shipping, and my two repair bills and finnaly whrn ecerything settled in june of 2011 i threw the machine out because it was not working and the co refused to send out another compressor, the warrentee co woud not pay to get one locally, anf it was in my way.  not bad  paid $1100.00for a machine that i used for 5 months, and thre away 6 months later, you have a wonderful system, i assure you that all my friends knew about and i talked my daughter in not buying another item from edgestar as i will every one that i hear of that wants to buy any of your products.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1981, "id": 100152, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 319, "len_tokens": 376, "text": "This little washing \"machine\" from Laundry Alternative is really pretty great! I haven't needed a laundromat since it arrived at my door.\n\nI did much research before buying the Wonder Wash, reading lots of reviews and watching a number of videos to be sure how it worked. I was intrigued by the idea that hot water and a vacuum seal affected the fibers of the clothing, helping the cleaning process. I will say that I can tell this is what's happening. However, I gave a 4 star rating because the \"new\" version I received does not have a lid with the old screw down top. Mine has the new green push down/pop up pressure valve. It's OK, but does not seal the lid tightly. Water always leaks from the lid in some amount. As a result, I have use the Wonder Wash in my bathtub. This works OK for me, but it's too bad because I would prefer the option to use the machine on a kitchen counter top, or some other location where excessive water loss would not be welcome. I assume there are other shoppers who would prefer the same.\n\nIn summary, this little machine is efficient and awesome! Buy one if you find it smart economics. Buy one if you live in a tiny home. Buy one in case the grid goes down. Whatever the reason, but one. Using no electricity and much less water than conventional machines, my clothes come out clean every time. Yours will too.\nAs for now I'm hand wringing, and hanging to dry in front of a fan. It takes roughly 8 to 12 hours to dry this way. Based on everything I've seen, I am very much looking forward to a future purchase of the Nina Soft Spin Dryer (also from Laundry Alternative), which I've studied and I'm sure will reduce my current dry time by quite a large percentage.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1982, "id": 88362, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1983, "id": 24487, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 299, "len_tokens": 395, "text": "I read some of the negative reviews and gave this a try anyway. Fearing that I may end up getting a used repackaged product (as mentioned in some of the negative reviews) I made sure to pick up a TDS* water meter/tester as well. Not only to make sure I got a new filter from this seller, but also so I can test the various liquids used around my home.\n\nAs I'd mentioned in my review for the TDS* water meter/tester, my tap water is hard so I used the baseline measurement (PPM's) of a bottle of Poland Spring water. My main concern about this filter or my refrigerator water line in general, was that it wasn't going to make too much of a difference drinking water from the tap versus one that came out of this filter. After my baseline measurements, my concerns were put at ease.\n\nBelow are results from my tests:\n\n(measurements in PPM)\n0-50 = Ideal drinking water\n50-100 = Carbon filtered water\n100-200 = Hard water\n200-300 = Marginally acceptable\n200-400 = Average tap water\n400+ Very high TDS contaminant level\n\n--My household baseline--\nBottle of Poland Spring = 18\nTap Water = 281\nGatorade = 260\n5 month old filter from my refrigerator water line = 240\nNew filter from my refrigerator water line = 200\nMelted ice (4 hours) = 293\n\nSo what did I learn from this... My tap water isn't too bad, this particular filter can probably go another month or two, and I really need to clean my ice maker. The good news is that this filter removed 80+PPM's of TDS* from my tap.\n\n*TDS* - Total Dissolved Solids are the total amount of mobile charged ions, including minerals, salts, or metals dissolved in a given volume of water.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1984, "id": 446565, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 293, "len_tokens": 364, "text": "I was somewhat \"dismayed\" that the thing that holds the top rack of my 3 year old dishwasher broke... My husband said I put too much weight on the top rack - but honest, I hadn't been swinging on it - or using it to climb on - or anything.  I promise I just put normal dishes in it. I just received this yesterday and don't have any idea how long they will last (actually just needed one but based on on-line comments about the \"defective\" part in KitchenAid dishwashers I decided it wouldn't be bad to have a spare on hand).  They look identical to the original part.  Since the original part only lasted 3 years I'm pretty lenient with my expectations for these and expect to have to replace on a regular basis. I'm giving 5 stars because I'm so happy I didn't have to order a whole new rack from KitchenAid (or whoever they are at this point) and spend the $$$ I'm sure they would charge. I watched a video on YouTube for the installation instructions.  When I first put the thing together it wouldn't go into the dishwasher correctly. Took a closer look and realized the adjuster had not seated all the way into the slot it fits into.  Took it all apart and redid it - using a little bit more force and voila - it popped into place.  Don't be afraid to manhandle  (womanhandle) it a little.  It takes some wiggling, and jiggling, and pushing (and a skinny flat head screwdriver or equivalent to pry/stretch the opening out a little) to get the adjuster to go all the way into the part that it needs to go into. Definitely fine a YouTube video & watch!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1985, "id": 542095, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 293, "len_tokens": 344, "text": "Did a kitchen remodel and we needed a new gas cooktop. I did my research and found this Frigidaire 36\" in black which matches all of our appliances and was highly rated not mention the striking appearance. It looks beautiful in our huge island surrounded by our dark \"leather\" look granite. The pluses: the pot boiler center burner will give you a boiling pot of water almost immediately and the spacious 5 burners are a must after having a 4 burner unit prior to this one and did I mention how great this unit looks?\n Now for the only (but big) downside, this is a pain in the a** to clean! the knobs are pretty close together and the grates are kind of heavy for my Wife to remove to clean the surface underneath the grates. I normally just use a soapy sponge to wipe it down and a towel to remove any streaking but now I have to follow-up with Windex and paper towels to give it that \"clean\" look. You may say, you knew what you were getting into when you purchased a black appliance, black is probably the toughest to keep clean but it is also very bold and looks great when it is clean. The biggest complaint would be the design of the burner knobs, they are too close together so it' hard to get to the tight space between them. So that's a poor design area and they may want to give the space about an inch between them to make it easier to clean.\n Overall, it's a very nice unit and it excels at what it's meant to do but it's a booger to keep clean easily. In spite of that inconvenience, I highly recommend this cooktop.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1986, "id": 87802, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1987, "id": 328023, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 318, "len_tokens": 370, "text": "I really enjoyed the idea of a chest freezer in our apartment. After much research and reviews, I found that this is the best freezer I could get. When I got this fridge delivered to me, it was exactly what we were looking for and it fit the kitchen perfectly. We put all our long term storage items in there; including meats, and quick meals.\nThe freezer worked perfectly for 2 months. The green light on the bottom is on my vicinity and notice when I leave home and come back. Its on button is always a relief. One night, I woke up in the middle of my sleep, went to the kitchen for a glass of water, and what do I see? a green light from the freezer, but blood ALL OVER MY KITCHEN. The next hour went by so fast trying to clean up and trying to figure out what went wrong.\nThere was no indication that the freezer went bad. I opened the freezer and everything was in room temperature. This means that it was out for couple of days and all my foods are bad now.\nBeing nice, I requested feed back from Danby (through Amazon support), no response. I had to return this product (I really hate returning) because I had no choice. All of my food went bad including some premium meat I was excitedly waiting for the right time for :P.\nSummary to the manufacturer: Please add a fail light on alarm. That way at least I am aware to save my foods. I really don't know how this passed quality assurance.\nSummary to consumers: Unreliable freezer; Manufacturer has the right idea, but they need to get a version 2 with 1 more feature.\n\n(Photo taken towards the end of clean up; forgot to document. You can see the green light; and blood stains still on the tiles from my meat.)", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1988, "id": 426948, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 287, "len_tokens": 314, "text": "I built my own cabinets and purposely didn't leave much of a gap on either side of the stove because I never wanted to fish anything out that happened to fall down through that opening. It did stop all the hardware from slipping through but liquids still made it down there and the stove had to be pulled out to clean off the cabinet sides. This cover solved that problem but since my gap was about as wide as the piece that should fit into it I had a lot of the cover on my countertop and really didn't like the look of it so I trimmed it down and now it looks much better. Its not a thing of beauty and even though the description states it comes in three stylish colors but the choices were black, white and clear so I went with the black and it really stands out on a brown countertop but the stove has black trim so I guess it was the best choice. It is not easy to cut it lengthwise and have a straight cut so I clamped it down on a workbench with a metal straightedge on it to be able to get a nice clean cut with a utility knife with a new blade. I would not think using scissors would have given me such a clean cut but who knows. I would have preferred it went all the way to the backsplash but paying 5-bucks more to get four more inches in length just wasn't worth it. If the gap you're filling is small like mine then youll have about an inch of this on your countertops on both sides but for 10-bucks I cant complain.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1989, "id": 178573, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 262, "len_tokens": 300, "text": "Well I got the dreaded lid lock failure message on my Whirlpool Cabrio, which I soon learned was not uncommon (though my Cabrio went for 5 years before this happened under heavy use, so I do recommend that washer personally). In my searches, I realized that this component is actually pretty easy to fix yourself, there are many youtube videos that take you through the steps, though it is useful to try and find a video that features your exact washer, as they are all a little different. I found one for the Cabrio so the installation instructions were exactly the same. If you've never done this before it's nice to know exactly which screws you are supposed to be taking out to remove the controller top.\n\nThe install took me about 20 minutes start to finish. Two things you should know: This component will probably look a little different then your old lid lock mechanism. They redesigned this, the old ones have a gray locking mechanism that is shaped differently then this white one. That said, don't worry, the screws fit in the same as the old one. The other thing that happened, at least on mine, is that the lid actually no longer locked like it used to after I installed it, but the washer did start working again and the lid lock message went away, so now I can open the lid while the washer is going, which is an added bonus. I'm not sure if this will happen for everyone though. I'm just glad it worked again!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1990, "id": 189729, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 263, "len_tokens": 324, "text": "The part that tells the humidity level is a bit iffy in lower humidities. My house got very dry last winter, and I bought these as well as a humidifier. After about 10 minutes of turning them on, three of the four synchronized enough that they were within 2 degrees and 5% humidity difference from one another. That's what the manufacturer states is the range they might vary at (if you need something more accurate, you also need something more powerful and thus more expensive). The fourth one, although it's temperature was within the 2 degrees, it's humidity reading was always 10% or more lower than the others. Now, we're talking less than 20% humidity max. Over time, I noticed as the house got less dry (from running my humidifier) that the 4th one now varied between 7 and 10%. I figured I had just got a fluke, and put it in a room I didn't care so much what the humidity was. Well, this summer as the humidity has increased to above 50%, I noticed that its humidity indicator had \"caught up\" with the others. So these are less accurate at lower humidities, although that is consistent with my understanding of how these things work.\n\nI do wish they came with a light, maybe something like what watches have, where you push a button and the screen glows. That's definitely not a big deal; it's just that sometimes when I would wake in the night, I would want to check the temperature or humidity levels.\n\nOverall, these were a good purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1991, "id": 479347, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 254, "len_tokens": 312, "text": "We have had 3 of these go bad in a Kenmore Elite side by side in 26 months of owning the frig.  The first was replaced on warranty, the second my husband replaced himself. and the 3rd one has not been replaced yet.  We may ditch the whole frig and start over with any make except Whirlpool or Kenmore.  These diffusers have virtually no life expectancy.  The first 2 started failing to open to let in cold air from freezer side while the 3rd has started not closing so frig side starts to freeze everything. I have not expressed my opinion to sears but it is on my to do list.  Amazon is way out of line with this price of $92 as Sears pars lists it for $56. Of course the shipping and tax will take the final cost to $70.  If you look at the various appliance blogs you will find this part fails consistently in Whirlpool and Kenmore frig's.  You would think the engineers could figure out what is wrong and apply a fix. And another bad thing is the cost of replacement.  On the first one replaced under warranty I saw the labor total and trip charge which totaled $225.  It won't take many of these failing to equal cost of a new frig.  And you can find these priced less than the $92 here on Amazon but whatever the price it is too much for a faulty part. I really can't give it any stars.  It needs negative stars.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1992, "id": 511588, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 243, "len_tokens": 303, "text": "I would not purchase anything from Air King after my current experience.  We had a smoke damage in our kitchen and the kitchen fan which we had for 15 years with NO problem, needed to be replaced.  Our contractor purchased and installed this fan--my only requirement after reading the horrors of kitchen fans was that it have a FIVE year warranty.  Ten months after install, we were cooking and heard a funny noise and the lights and fan quit working.  The company sent me a few fuse and switches that I changed myself.  When that didn't work, they sent a new fan.  Fast forward two years.  The exact same thing happens--the noise, the new fuse and switch replacements that do nothing.  Only they have NOT respected their warranty and tell me this model with the knobs (instead of rocker switches) only has a one year warranty.  Here is what the insert says verbatim:\nAll products manufactured by Air King Limited are warranted for one year from the date of purchase against defects in workmanship and/or material. In addition, all ventilating/exhaust fans, heaters, combination fan lights and/or heaters, and range hoods are guaranteed for five years from the date of purchase against defects in workmanship and/or material.\nIf you don't mind a product that dies within the year and is replaceable...great, buy Air King.  However, if you want something more than disposable appliance and a company that backs it's products, DON'T buy Air King!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1993, "id": 9220, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 294, "len_tokens": 355, "text": "Delivery: perfect condition (from [...])- no dents or damage, very well boxed, timely\n\nAssemby: easy hose connection (though mine is useless because my sink faucet is not typical; the bottom plate is very thin aluminum with screw holes that will not match up, but a very small issue. You need to install it with the concave towards the floor. The illustration in manual is useless.\n\nLoad: decent size load; 3-4 loads is equal to about a medium of the regular-sized washer. You can fit a lot of toddler clothes in this washer. Adult clothes is limited, as well as bedding. Long pants or shirt sleeves can tangle a bit. I've even washed twin sheets, towels, smaller comforters, and rugs with great results. Heavy stains don't wash out too good (this goes with any washer I guess).\n\nWasher pulse washes with low noise level. The initial spin to wring out water is pretty loud. The actual spin cycle noise level is lower and spins intermittently. The result is very dry clothes.\n\nProblems: There were occasional malfunction with machine detecting water levels. Therefore, do not leave the machine alone when it is close to being done with filling the tub. If it is full and does not ring or stop at capacity, turn off the water and shift the tub gently from side to side. If this doesn't work, turn the capacity nob to the lower level, then back.\n\nI was a little skeptical since some people did get faulty machines with questionable Haier customer service and problems with having the machine fixed. I'm happy with mine and hope it will last a few years. Having this machine beats going to the laundry room or the laundry mat. Now I need a compact dryer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1994, "id": 124699, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 253, "len_tokens": 304, "text": "We bought the GE Cafe Line (range, dishwasher, microwave, and fridge) for our kitchen renovation, including the french door counter-depth fridge with the water dispenser on the inside.  A significant part of the reason we went with this line was because I dislike having the water dispenser on the front of the fridge.  The fridge looks great, and the layout of the shelves is good (although height continues to be an issue with adjustments done in increments which are too large).\n\nWe installed the fridge in mid-January and moved in at the end of January.  Immediately, the water dispenser stopped working.  Over the course of 10 weeks we had no fewer than 8 repair appointments to try to fix the issue.  Speaking to someone at GE customer service is incredibly difficult (they like their machines to do all the talking), and half the people you get are completely incompetent and/or rude.  Eventually, because we bought this through a dealer, we were able to get them to replace the fridge (after over 2 months of this with near-weekly appointments).\n\nWe had the replacement fridge installed last Wednesday.  By Sunday, the water dispenser was not working - just 5 days yet again!  We'll see how many appointments we have to go through this time, but if I could return this and have almost any other fridge at this point, I would.  It's clearly a flawed design, and I don't remember the last time I dealt with a worse customer service department than GE's.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1995, "id": 517270, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 294, "len_tokens": 348, "text": "purchased in Nov 2015 from the only US distributor which in in NJ.  it took a while to arrive bc. they only manufacture these in Europe.  Also, there is only one service dept. in US, which is in AZ, and only one authorized repair agent near my home in Northern Illinois (no other repair service will even touch this brand for some reason). Rotisserie motor went out within a couple of weeks and took about a month to get the part in to repair. oven selector switch burned out in April and as of late July it still has not been repaired (meaning oven won't work). Main issue seems to be only 1 repair company in the entire Midwest will work on this range, and they have not once returned my phone calls in 3 months. when they finally showed up to do the repair 3 weeks ago, Fagor had sent them the wrong part, and didn't know what the right part was. Now I'm back to hoping that the repair company will actually communicate with Fagor (since they won't with me for some reason) and figure out what part is needed. Note, there are only 2 models of Fagor range available, but somehow no one at Fagor knows which oven selector switch to send. Also, everything is made in China, which requires weeks to get anything shipped. The range looks great, is inexpensive and the burners work, but i wish i had thought of ease to repair when i was selecting a range. I would have bought something that could actually be repaired by a reliable and competent provider. I hate having to work with an unreliable repair man and a company that doesn't even know their own parts inventory. \"", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1996, "id": 524947, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 292, "len_tokens": 361, "text": "I have had gas range about 3 months now and love it. Installation was a breeze.  The oven works like a dream with or without convection.  I have roasted turkey, baked bread, bagels and pies and the convection is much better than my previous oven.  The thermostat in the oven is spot on, unlike my old oven which was 50 degrees off.  I was worried about the stainless steel cook top as there were many complaints.  I have none.  It seems like nothing sticks to the stainless steel like the black stove top on my previous gas range.  I have never have to scrub anything off (and I don't clean up after each use so some gets \"baked on\").  I just wipe the top with a little \"greased lightening\" cleaner on a cloth and buff with a paper towel.  The grates go in the dishwasher and come out great.  The burners on the stove top get very hot for browning and pan frying.  The simmer burner also work well.  Yes, I agree that the oven fan is a bit loud but the convection baking and roasting is wonderful. We had company and sat around the kitchen bar while using the oven and it did not impede conversation at all.  Yes the center burner is not very useful and I have not even tried to use the griddle having heard all of the complaints about that.  I have used it to braise/simmer with my oval shaped dutch oven and it worked very well.  If I had a choice I would not have a 5th burner but most all ranges in this price point and feature level come with a 5th burner.  For the above to reasons I gave the stove 4/5 stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1997, "id": 402580, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 275, "len_tokens": 325, "text": "We were so excited to try this little machine after carefully reading the reviews and watching the videos. We received it quickly and were excited to use same day. I noticed the machine's exterior was dirty and scratched in places as if it were used. The hose that comes with this is basically unusable. We filled the machine using a a detachable shower-head. I carefully selected the test batch of three light shirts, 3 cotton sleep shorts, and a few undies; loaded these carefully and evenly and filled the tub with water and a small amount of liquid detergent. Turned the knob on the wash setting and...NOTHING. No clicking noise from the button, no motor whirring, just nothing. We checked that outlet we plugged into was working (it was), that there weren't any switches on the back of the machine we needed to flip (there wasn't), then tested the \"dryer\" portion and found that it was working. The button for the dryer made a clicking noise and the dry tub immediately started rotating.\n\nWell, the only conclusion we could come to was that this was defective. I had to agitate the wet clothes with a heavy duty ladle, and then i moved them over to the spin dryer. This dryer was loud but effective as the clothes came out almost dry, and were completely dry within an hour of being placed on the laundry rack.\n\nThe seller was great about returning the money (minus tax). However, I would recommend a bit of caution to the potential buyer as you may get a dud. The dryer portion worked great, the washer - not so much.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 1998, "id": 346353, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 262, "len_tokens": 324, "text": "After spending a few weeks using it, I rate it as a solid four star.  I am pleased with it and would buy it again, but I feel that the manufacturers are a bit more optimistic about its abilities than reality suggests.\n\nPros:\n\nIt does a great job on cleaning clothes\nIt is light, easy to store, and portable\nGreat for a one person household\nYou will recoup your investment in a few months\n\nCons\n\nIt has an underpowered motor that can easily overheat, which means early failure\nThe Instructions are too optimistic about its abilities\n\nHeres what I do to avoid problems:\n\nForget loading it with 10 liters of water.  I use about 7 liters.  The less water and clothing you put in it, the less you stress the motor.\n\nStick to smaller loads.  The biggest load I put in it is one pair of adult mens jeans or one bath towel.  Again, less load means less motor stress.  Forget big bath towels, flannel sheets, or that terrycloth robe.  Light fabrics work best in it.\n\nUse the gentle cycle.  Not only does it reduce motor stress, the gentle cycle does a great job of cleaning regular clothes.  The regular cycle created more vibration, caused splashing, and caused the motor to heat up.  None of those are good.  If something remains dirty, just run it longer on gentle cycle.\n\nI also use two more cycles to rinse the clothes.\n\nBottom line  the less you stress the motor, the longer it will last and the more use you will get out of it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 1999, "id": 327905, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 313, "len_tokens": 388, "text": "Mine worked pretty well at first, but not for long. Warrantee was not honored since I had it on my porch (fully protected from the elements). When paying to diagnose ($80) it would cost $250 to repair (with the $80 being credited to the total). Expensive fan motor that did not hold up well at all! Should I throw good money after bad?\n\nInsert a product link\n\n[Cancel]\n\nMine worked pretty well at first, but not for long. Warrantee was not honored since I had it on my porch (fully protected from the elements). When paying to diagnose ($80) it would cost $250 to repair (with the $80 being credited to the total). Expensive fan motor that did not hold up well at all! Should I throw good money after bad?\n\nInsert a product link\n\n[Cancel]\n\nMine worked pretty well at first, but not for long. Warrantee was not honored since I had it on my porch (fully protected from the elements). When paying to diagnose ($80) it would cost $250 to repair (with the $80 being credited to the total). Expensive fan motor that did not hold up well at all! Should I throw good money after bad?\n\nInsert a product link\n\n[Cancel]\n\nWorked pretty well for a few months but degraded quickly (refrigerator not cold, freezer icing up).  Warrantee was not honored due to having it on my screen porch (in Florida, fully protected from all elements except air). User manual says INDOOR USE ONLY.  It's in the same conditions as the rest of the house when the windows are open, which is much of the time!  In seeking to get it repaired, the diagnosis ($80) was a bad fan motor that would be $250 to replace (with the $80 being credited to the total).  Trying to decide if it's worth it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2000, "id": 1362, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 255, "len_tokens": 303, "text": "Having two humidifiers (one Holmes and one Sunbeam) different numbers but same unit; the constant replacement of these filters becomes exasperating and expensive. Especially it seems the recent filters do not last as long as the original replacements. The first replacements usually lasted about a month, even longer if you rinsed them to clean them off. The recent replacements (this one included) stop wicking the moisture after a day or two. In light of that, I have come up with a solution that seems to work and will cost you very little.\nMy experiment:\nI think you could use a wire mesh (a small piece of fence cut to size) or, an old coffee container. The large ones from Folgers or Maxwell house. I used a Folgers coffee container, cut out the bottom and it almost the same size as the filter. Then I drilled several holes in the sides trying to make a honeycomb pattern. I ended up cutting squares out to allow enough air flow through the filter material. Now, I used two washcloths as the wicking material. You can get a pack of these inexpensive white washcloths at Walmart  in packs of 10. Just the right size draped over the end, use a rubber band to hold them, turn the unit over drape the other end with rubber band and you are done. I have been experimenting with this for a couple of days and it seems to work very well..\nSo there is my contribution to this review, hope it helps.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2001, "id": 464183, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 260, "len_tokens": 320, "text": "I have received filters from this brand before with no issues.  I just got these last week and installed into the fridge, ran 3 gallons of water through the filter (suggestion was 2.5 gallons) and everything was great.  The flow was perfect and all was good until the following morning when I gave my son a cup of water & he said it tasted funny.  I tasted it too and he was right. So I removed the filter & reinstalled it thinking maybe I did something wrong, even though I have installed many, as my refrigerator is 7 years old.  I ran another 3 gallons through it and again, it tasted fine.  Later that day, I get a cup of water and again it tastes fine.  The next morning, I dump out the first cup, thinking maybe upon \"startup\" the next day, water needs to be cleared from the line.  The water tastes funny again.  I finally get a decent tasting cup of water, fill my son's bottle to bring to school for the day and he comes home saying the water tasted gross, but he drank it.  So I start researching water filters and am going with a completely different company; hopefully with better luck.  And from now on I will only buy NSF 53 certified filters, not NSF 42, as I have now done my research  & found the 42s do not remove harmful contaminants. Nonetheless, the NSF42 is supposed to remove bad tastes & odors.  This one didn't and I will not buy from this company again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2002, "id": 501068, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 322, "len_tokens": 373, "text": "I bought mine from Focus electronics & Appliances, and they rock !! I tried ordering this from every vendor listed as sellers here and each one cancelled my order after they explained to me that they don't ship to the state of Maine, can you imagine not shipping to an entire state? Focus at least offered to switch shipping companies for me and that worked like a charm.\n\nNow the refrigerator is everything we had hoped for and more. It looks amazing and it works amazing too. I can't say enough about this appliance. We had wanted this for over 18 months, we saved our pennies and finally bought it and we are so happy. Every feature listed works just as expected. We love the \"manual ice maker which bty eliminates any spillage, and the door within a door should be standard on every fridge, the express chill zone is awesome and why don't all refrigerators have the express chill function which is great after you've gone grocery shopping. I think Summit has just set the bar a little bit higher for every other appliance manufacturer. One of our crispers was damaged, and one call to Summit late Friday afternoon took care of that. I spoke to humans, they were pleasant and solved my problem right away with a new crisper being shipped out right away.\n\nI want to add that we love waking up in the morning and seeing the green \"energy saving\" light lit up. One reason we bought this is because the cost of ownership of this fridge, over the long haul is so low. In fact I would venture to say it must be about the lowest for a fridge this big.\n\nI can't say enough good about this appliance except if you don't own this, you need to go out and buy it right away. Don't wait, don't hesitate just go out and buy it, you'll love it.....guaranteed!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2003, "id": 432994, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 192, "len_tokens": 322, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R154UWK9BB698E\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1wtdQ473jS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/919-NhbidWS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;WOW! The power of the agitator is mind boggling, the size of the machine itself was larger than expected, as were the wash and spin tubs.\n\nI tried using the water hose provided to fill the wash tub and, due to its small diameter, found it painfully slow so I used a bucket. I had no difficulties at all attaching the hose to my kitchen faucet.\n\nI didn't see mention in the comments regarding the silver ring with two small hooks, so I wasn't expecting it. The ring is a little bigger than a quarter and, for those of you not familiar with its purpose, here it is:\n\nIf you pinch the two hooks (they look more like ears) together, its a spring, the ring gets larger. Slide the hose into it and let go of the ears. Then pinch the ears again, slide the hose over the inlet then let go of the ears, it secures the hose.\n\nThe machine is not very heavy and was easy to move. (No wheels though. Unless I'm missing something.)\n\nOverall: THRILLED!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2004, "id": 159607, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 250, "len_tokens": 301, "text": "This review is not from a verified purchase because I didn't need to purchase one. Read on.\n\nAre you experiencing a condition where the oven lights and immediately goes out? Yes, we did. Does the oven retry 3 times and then lockout? Yes, it does.\n\nSave yourself the money. The problem most likely is a fault detected in the rectification/flame sensing circuit. It's actually not a 'fault'. It's a safety circuit functioning properly.\n\nThis is not a big deal to restore normal operation. Anyone with minor mechanical skills can handle it.\n\nSimply remove the igniter, gently wipe the darkened part of the tip with emery cloth or steel wool to remove the 'very' thin layer of carbon that accumulated to restore it to a bright luster.\n\nReinstall and test. In most cases this should restore the stove to normal operation.\n\nCheck youtube for your model for details on removing and reinstalling. It's simple. 15 mins typical.\n\nIt is infuriating that the manufacturers do not include this simple task in the owners manuals troubleshooting section. I guess they would rather sell a part than explain what could/should be a routine maintenance task, like cleaning the oven itself.\n\nThis is one of a number of tasks that should be done as routine maintenance on your gas furnace or cold water heater. I wouldn't be surprised if unsavory HVAC and plumbing and heating outfits are taking advantage of people claiming to replace a part they merely clean as part of annual system maintenance.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2005, "id": 195967, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 257, "len_tokens": 334, "text": "UPDATE 6/1/16:  My Panda is still working great, I do change the filters every 3 months.  My brother now comes over every weekend to  do his laundry and he uses this machine even after he slams the door.  Humm, I think I'll get him one for his birthday, so he can stop abusing my washer and dryer. Stll loving it.\n\n UPDATE 10/11/13:  This machine is a 110v, so all you need do is plug it in to a standard outlet.  I AM REALLY GLAD I purchased this dryer.  The only thing I would suggest is you buy extra filters (I did).  Highly recommend item.\n\n I brought this for my home.  It was a quick delivery.  However, I had problems with the belt around the drum.  I am in no way mechanically inclined so I had to call for help.  I got a quick response and the lady was very nice, she sent me some pictures on how to install the belt.  I had some problems with that, then my computer acted up.  I was very upset.  AGAIN THIS WAS my fault not the company.  They went over and above to help me.  They sent me a replacement at no cost to me.  Wow, fantastic customer service.  The replacement works great.  This is a machine for a small loads not large, but hey it works great.  Again thank you to the seller.  I recommended this to some of my coworkers, one came over and tried it out and he really liked it.  He will be ordering it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2006, "id": 49139, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 241, "len_tokens": 309, "text": "I used to buy \"Helping Hand\" lint traps at my local CVS pharmacy and was very happy with them.  In 2013 I tried some generic lint traps sold on Amazon by Binford Supply House.  They were awful.  Upon taking them out of the package and unfurling them, dozens of pieces of aluminum shavings sprinkled all over the place.  The filters turned to rust after 2 or 3 uses.  I went back to using the Helping Hand brand.\n\nIn April 2016 I decided to check Amazon again, specifically looking for the Helping Hand brand. I was happy to find them sold by a company called Utensil Pro.  However when they arrived they were NOT the Helping Hand brand (despite the advertised picture and description), but rather a brand called Home-Aide.  I was going to return them but figured it wasn't worth the trouble given the price ($12.95 for 10 pieces).  Mistake.  These are just as bad as the generic units I purchased from Binford Supply House.  The photo speaks for itself.  After 3 washes the unit was not much more than a pile of rusted goo. After lifting out the main fragments out of the utility sink, I still had to contend with dozens of sharp rusted metal barbs left behind.\n\nMy recommendation:  do not purchase from Binford Supply House or Utility Pro.  The first sells an inferior product; the second sells an equally inferior product misrepresented as a good one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2007, "id": 475614, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 308, "len_tokens": 389, "text": "Our washer had been rocking and rolling all over the laundry room.  It drove us nuts. At some point it was going to cause a very serious problem, disconnecting the drain hose and flooding the floor or something.  We tried everything to fix it, making sure it was perfectly level, etc., and nothing worked.\n\nThen I saw these.  They were kind of spendy, $45.  I saw something similar for about $10 and almost got it instead, figuring that if it didn't work it was worth the risk.  But at the last minute I decided, \"What the heck, I'm tired of messing with this, this price seems extravagant, but I'm gonna do it on the belief that I'll only need to try it once.\"\n\nI think I was right.  We just installed the Anti-Walk Silent Feet, then ran a heavy load of wash.  They worked like a charm.  The washer still vibrates quite a lot when it's on spin cycle, but that can't be prevented.  However, the washer does NOT \"walk\" any more.  It stays in the same place, doesn't move an inch.\n\nThis product is a single pad that's made of two kinds of rubber: the upper portion is a harder, firmer, denser rubber (I think it's that way because it's got to be able to support the washing machine feet and therefore needs to be tougher) and the bottom part is a softer more pliable rubber (that I think is that way so it absorbs the vibration and \"sticks\" to the floor better without slipping).\n\nYeah, maybe I could have saved $35 by buying something cheaper.  I'm not sure. But maybe the similar product that cost only $10 would have been different enough to make a big difference.  In any case, I am VERY happy with this product and would heartily recommend it to anyone else.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2008, "id": 328644, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 254, "len_tokens": 307, "text": "CHEAP AND EFFECTIVE.  I don't know how long it will last, considering the one that came with the fridge only lasted 4 months, but it's fills my freezer with so much ice I don't know what to do with it all.  I should have bought two or three, incase this one breaks too, since it was so cheap.  Well worth the money.\n\nUPDATE:  It has been three months since I purchased and installed this ice maker and it has STOPPED WORKING.  This happened to the original the same way.  At this point, it is cheaper to buy bags of ice from the store than it is to replace it every three months. WTH.\n\nUpdate #2:  The seller did get back to me and sent me a new ice maker.  It has been a month and so far it still works, but the first one died in three months.  Will update in a few more months to give the status of this current ice maker.\n\nFinal update: replacement ice maker stopped working too. Didn't feel like replacing it and kust bought ice for a while. Finally got fed up and purchased ANOTHER one because it's cheaper than buying bags of ice all the time. And guess what, after four months it stopped working too. This is no longer a quality control issue, this is just a poorly made ice maker which is designed to break and be replaced.  This is my fourth ice maker including the original and all have broken in the same way.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2009, "id": 469703, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 251, "len_tokens": 317, "text": "I've never been more dissatisfied with an appliance before in my LIFE. Our old washer went out unexpectedly, so we my husband had to go out and get a new one. The sales guy at Lowes sung PRAISES about this washer. It's got a high capacity drum!!! No agitator means more room for the clothes!! Low water usage!!! ttalked my husband into buying it. It worked ok for a few months. I was immediately unimpressed with the way it washed. No agitator also means my clothes aren't getting swished around like I like them to be. Low water usage means when I need to wash a comforter (toddler size bedding) half that s*** doesn't get wet! Now... we're a 1 income family with 3 kids... Ain't NO BODY got time for this washer. Unless you want to turn around and buy a new washer in less than a year of course. Our clothes hardly get washed. Sometimes, I'll do a smaller load and put it on high...and some of my clothes are still dry. Unfortunately for us... now its also started singing us the song of it's people. It's making the loudest grinding squealing noise I've ever heard. We're also lucky enough to have the washer and dryer set up in the freaking kitchen... which means if I wash a load of clothes, no one in the house can hear a thing Till its on the spin cycle. Also... i freaking hate the lid lock. hate this washing machine. Hate it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2010, "id": 553686, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 296, "len_tokens": 357, "text": "It is a pretty stove as stoves go, and there are a few positives - the catchment area for spills is deep, so you have to really spill a lot before it reaches and impairs the burner function.  It is easy to clean the catchment area.\n\nThere are a lot of minuses - The smallest burner is too small to do anything but a very weak simmer.  All the other burners are too big (spread the flames out too wide) to use for a small or even medium frying skillet.  I happen to be very fond of my grandmother's cast iron skillet - just right for 6 scrambled eggs - but the round burner top-thingies prevent the flames from heating the center of any pan and the flames spread out so wide that the heat gets to your knuckles before the pan gets completely heated.  The instructions suggest aluminum pans - now why in the world would someone design a stove that requires a cook to change out her favorite pans and skillets?  That is just ridiculous.  GE can brag about the BTUs of each burner, but it takes longer on this stove to cook my breakfast than any other stove I have used in 50 years.  How is that environmentally friendly?  And another thing that makes no sense is that while the control knobs suggest that the burner can turned from Lo to 10, in fact there is no visible difference (even at night with all the room lights off)  between the settings from HI (10) to 4.  Once you get lower than 4, you can see and feel a reduction in heat.  So really, you have Lo,  a little more,  a bit more and then WHAM, full bore. I do not like this stove.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2011, "id": 148829, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 281, "len_tokens": 328, "text": "When I was researching different options for dishwashers in my small apartment I was shocked to see just how many 5 star ratings this product received. \"There's got to be a catch,\" I thought. But I can honestly say that this little baby is AMAZING. I haven't put it though any hardcore work (massive pots/pans) or super caked on food, but it managed a sink full of dirty dishes with minimal effort on my part, including one small pan.\n\nFull disclosure, I've only had it for a few days at this point, but I am already in love.\n\nThere was a bit of finagling to find a good spot to put it, but that's only because I have a very weird kitchen and there are no counters immediately next to my sink. I ended up putting it on the top shelf of a kitchen cart. (Note: I do recommend putting it at least at counter height to ensure that any water left in the discharge hose can drain down into the sink).\n\nI recommend running a test wash first, to ensure that you've tightened everything enough. I tested the input hose to make sure there were no leaks, but forgot that the discharge hose is separate, so when I ran it the first time there was a nice puddle on my floop. Oops. Once I rechecked the discharge and tightened it, however, there were no issues.\n\nI also took some advice from another review I saw on here and bought a stick-on command hook to attach to the side of the machine. This way you can hang up the hose on the side without it dripping on the floor.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2012, "id": 509918, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 291, "len_tokens": 368, "text": "I have owned a Fisher Paykel washing machine for 10 years.  We live in a moderately large family and use this machine almost every day.  Several girls, loads of outfits, leos, sports gear, track shoes. Multiple loads per day. Most days per year. As a special treat, we do the odd tough mudder. We live in what could be called an \"abusive laundry home\".\n\nThe machine is exceptional. Incredibly water efficient, quiet and fairly fast.  we bought it to replace a top-of-the-line Sears model,  which lasted just 18 months under exactly the same condition.\n\nIn ten years, I have replaced the motion controller once,  Around five years ago  I replaced the diverter valve.\n\nFP machines are not the cheapest, you get what you pay for. Top of the line quality  that works day in, day  out and lasts.\n\nThe customer service is unreal. I recently needed a replacement motion controller. I was able to telephone the 800 number and  speak to a live representative in the middle of a  Saturday afternoon Eastern time.  I was speaking to Rebecca a service tech in New Zealand.  She knew the machine  precisely and organized for the correct part  to be shipped first thing Monday morning. It arrived 48 hours later,  shipped directly from their facility in Huntington Beach California. Unexpectedly good on an aging machine.\n\nNo layers of phone menus, poor english, techs who had no idea, escalation to level 3.... My blood pressure remained constant during the complete interaction. No stress and the Fedex man at the door, two business days later with the exact part. 30 mins later the machine was again doing great service.\n\n I plan to upgrade the machine later this year and will be definitely buying Fisher Paykel again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2013, "id": 476598, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 275, "len_tokens": 376, "text": "We have an eight year old Jenn Air \"professional line\" dishwasher that recently began leaking ever so slightly, due to the original door gasket being worn.  We have now tried THREE of this supposedly \"genuine Whirlpool\" replacement part.  Some brilliant Whirlpool/Jenn Air/Maytag, etc. engineer or cost control person has decided to cheapen the part by using about 1/3 less rubber (or whatever compound) and when the replacement is installed, my dishwasher leaks like a sieve.  My most recent attempt was directly with Jenn Air for eighty-two dollars and change with shipping and tax with the exact same result.  I've been on the phone with Jenn Air for the last 45 minutes still with no resolution to the problem.  Indeed, with my last \"reinstallation\" of the original, worn gasket, it didn't leak on the next load of dishes, but I'd guess it's only a matter of time before it leaks, again.  The Jenn Air customer service person is \"opening a case\".\n\nFollow up - The Whirlpool case was closed.  Although Jenn Air/Maytag used to maintain parts for as many as 12 or 13 years, Whirlpool told me that they only carry parts for 7 and since my dishwasher is 8 years old...tough cookies.  Based on my research, the original parts were changed just about the time that Whirlpool acquired Maytag, who owned the Jenn Air brand.  I will NEVER buy a Whirlpool product and, sadly, they own a lot of brands...Jenn Air, Maytag, Amana, Kitchen Aid, Whirlpool and more.  I guess the lonely Maytag repair man was also laid off, otherwise he'd not have been able to install replacement parts that work on a service call.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2014, "id": 365790, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 317, "len_tokens": 365, "text": "not worth it.\nwhen i first got it it worked perfectly. it took a while to to do the laundry but it was to be expected and way better then a laundry mat. the problems are with the machine it self. after a month the timer dial broke and you have to be just jiggle it till it works. but its out side of the return date. then two weeks later the washing side the motor burns out. not the machine is a spinner. great. this is less then 2 months after i bought this thing.the quality of the machine is very cheap all lose plastic and parts just keep falling off or breaking. so now the thing is only good for spinning cloths. i have followed all the recommendations and how to use stuff and the thing still broke. so i contact the seller first to see if they would take it back, not expecting it, see as it was shortly after 30 days. to which ONEBIGOUTLET told me no they only cover it for 30 days. understandable. so i write them back asking for the manufacture details which clearly printed on the machine is arksen ..... i wanted contact info for them. all that ONEBIGOUTLET would replay to me is \" the manufacture is arksen\" even after 3 emails asking for the contact info all i got was \"arksen\" . which good look looking them up online. all you are gonna find is arksen tools , which they have no idea what this thing is. so i got fed up and threw the thing out. there are better ones out there in this style of machine. the Panda is so much better and a few bucks more but really if something went wrong with it you can contact the manufacture and get it fixed. and the seller normally is amazon not ONEBIGOUTLET which has no support.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2015, "id": 272729, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 267, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "I bought this product. Found it easy to assemble and very easy to install. Only took one person to install. Electrical was very easy as it is just a plug. Like pluging in any other appliance. The stainless is very sharp. Use gloves and long sleeves when installing. Maybe a neck and face guard too. Being as you must look over the top of said stainless chimney.\nFan works but is a bit loud. Mounting the charcoal filters is a bit of a dirty job. Mounts to both sides of blower housing. Charcoal is black and its all over the cartridge. Now down to the nitty gritty. The lighting system is bad. Not the lights themselves. Don't bother hunting down new replacement lights yet. It may be a waste of your time and energy. You will end up very angry with new lights because the lights still don't work  and or strob. Dirty power from the transformer installed on the microprocessor. This will take either new microprocessor board( as if that may work) might not! Best thing would be to gut it and install new simpler direct system. Leave the wiring just gut the processor. Have fun with that one! Switches are microprocessor linked  as well. Need a real diagram of wiring so as to be able to use this without replacing switches. God help you. I hope you have one of those kids or are one of those kids that love to disassemble and remake. Not worth the money! Walk away now! Or have a product like a harley. Loud and you have to rebuild it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2016, "id": 367080, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 201, "len_tokens": 354, "text": "If you want to risk your house flooding for the saving over the OEM filter, be my guest. I was sitting in the living room and heard a pop in the kitchen. I thought it was the icemaker making a loud noise. Luckily I was not out of the house for even an hour, the house would have been flooded. I opened the fridge door nd heard and saw water all over. I shut off the water to the fridge and assumed something had come loose in the internal plumbing. I only had to remove the filter shroud to see the seam at the top of this filter cartridge had split. This filter was installed for less than 6 months and if anything we have low water pressure not high. Definitely not over 120 psi, like the packaging says this can handle. I bought 2 of these so I put the new one in but I am going to purchase the OEM filters today and replace this one ASAP.\n\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/GE-MWF-GE-mwf-Fridge-Water-filter-GE-smart-water-filter-WLF-GE01-Replacement-filter-for-GE-MWF-MWFA-GWF-GWFA-GWF01-46-9991-46-9996-469991-469996-Amana/dp/B00YGFUFLE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">GE MWF, GE mwf Fridge Water filter, GE smart water filter / WLF-GE01 - Replacement filter for GE MWF, MWFA, GWF, GWFA, GWF01, 46-9991, 46-9996, 469991, 469996, Amana</a>", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2017, "id": 228157, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 248, "len_tokens": 305, "text": "They don't last forever, but these Whirlpool crescent mold ice makers are cheap enough and easy enough to change that it really doesn't matter to me all that much.  A new ice maker is still cheaper than a new fridge.  My Kenmore side-by-side is 20 years old and this is the 3rd ice maker I've put in it.  I like the look of the coating on the mold of this unit - the one I received was a white color that looked almost like enamel.  It does NOT look like the original Teflon coating of the OEM unit.  But frankly, given what is now known about the dangers of Teflon, I would hope the coating is something newer and safer!\n\nThe new unit is and exact replacement for the old.  I had to swap out the bail wire, as mine was different, and of course, cut out the correct plug for the fill tube. The unit came with the correct wiring harness for my Kenmore side-by-side, so I didn't even have to bother with moving the harness from the old ice maker.  The whole job to swap it out took less than 30 minutes.  On mine, I found that removing my old unit required one specialty tool - a 1/4\" nut driver.\n\nOnce I had it hooked up, it was making ice like crazy within just a few hours.  I didn't even have to adjust the fill time as the ice cube sizes came out perfect right away.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2018, "id": 383669, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 334, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "New View Premium Water Filter-\nThe warning light on my fridge had been on for over a month before I remembered to order a new filter. With being so busy, I just never made time to run to the big box stores to buy another filter.\nWhile on Amazon I found this product that was very easy to order and it came straight to my front door. Super easy to order! This product was well packed for shipping and arrived within just 2 days with my Amazon Prime account.\nI was able to install this filter with no help from the hubby! It was quite easy to install and I had fresh tasting filtered water in just minutes.\nI quit drinking tap water a few years ago. I still use tap water to cook and clean and for bathing but for drinking we only use the filtered water.\nWater filters provide better tasting and better smelling drinking water by removing chlorine and bacterial contaminants.\nWater filters greatly reduce the risk of rectal cancer, colon cancer, and bladder cancer by removing chlorine and chlorine byproducts from drinking water.\nA solid block carbon water filter can selectively remove dangerous contaminants from drinking water while retaining healthy mineral deposits that balance the pH of drinking water.\nDrinking clean, filtered water protects the body from disease and leads to overall greater health.\nA water filter provides clean, healthy water for cooking, as well as drinking, at the convenience of tap water.\nWater filters reduce the risk of gastrointestinal disease by more than 33 percent by removing cryptosporidium and giardia from drinking water.\nDrinking pure water is especially important for children. Water filters provide the healthiest water for childrens developing immune systems.\nWater filters offer the last line of defense between the body and the over 2100 known toxins that may be present in drinking water.\n\nI will most certainly continue to use this product.\nI received a discount on this product for an honest and unbiased product review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2019, "id": 87834, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2020, "id": 41596, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 320, "len_tokens": 387, "text": "I have had this washer for about a week now, purchased from CompactAppliance.com -- it arrived in great shape and has been working like a charm so far.  I was very careful when connecting the hoses, and did need to go to a hardware store for the screw-in attachment to the sink, but since I was forewarned this was no problem. Just be careful not to lose the rubber grommets! I had to make another trip to the hardware store because the outlet grommet rolled away somewhere.  The noise level is loud enough that I'm not comfortable running it after 10pm (I live in an apartment).  I agree with other reviews that it is a bit annoying that there is no indication if the load is done or just resting.  A new issue, which might be a new feature, is that the machine beeps if the door is opened more than a few minutes.  I usually just turn it off so I don't have to listen to it.  Otherwise the machine does a terrific job of washing, better than most standard washers I've had.  I put in a couple of things that I didn't think would get clean, but they were sparkling when I opened the drawer.\n\nUPDATE July 14th:  The washer is still working well.  I did finally realize how one can tell when the washer has finished the last cycle: if the display numbers are flashing, the unit is still running.  If the display is solid the cycle is complete.  Live and learn.\n\nOne cautionary note: I live in an older apartment building with inexpensive fixtures vintage about 1970-  The kitchen faucet was not up to handling the elevated pressure of the washer hose and began to leak around the base fairly soon after I started using the washer.  Not a problem with the washer but something to be aware of if you have less resiliant fixtures.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2021, "id": 27278, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 275, "len_tokens": 336, "text": "This serves a very basic, yet extremely important, purpose.  It keeps the water and filter in your humidifier clean.  I was reading that a huge number of people are doing more harm than good with humidifiers because they aren't keeping them clean.  They tend to filter out your air when it passes through the wick and that bacteria just collects in the filter and in the water.\n\nThis solution does a great job at reducing that bacteria growth.  You still need to rinse the filter and clean the basin of your humidifier often, you just have to do it less and you don't need to replace the filter as often.  This works best than anything I have been able to find at Lowe's.  And let's face it, those protec cartridges are a total rip off.\n\nThis bottle of solution has lasted me for at least 4-5 years and I still have plenty left.  It doesn't take much and you do not need to add it at every filling.  I usually add it to the water at every 2-3 fillings, otherwise you will see more buildup in the water.  It has no smell like adding bleach does (I've read some people do this, not a great idea!) and it keeps the filter substantially cleaner.  No more science experiment in your humidifier.\n\nI highly recommend rinsing the filter out at least once a week, it will run much better.  You will need to switch out your filter reasonably frequently or it will cause buildup.  If it's one of the metal filters... running hot water through it may prolong the life.  Paper filters just need to be replaced.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2022, "id": 341463, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 261, "len_tokens": 325, "text": "Great product.  Extremely versatile.  I have a In Wall Double Thermador Oven that is somewhere between 10 and 15 years old.  The oven is great but the knobs are crap and Thermador knows it.  When the replacements were available I bought them from Thermador 2X and then guess what, they discontinued them.  I have been looking for 4 years for replacement.  Even Sears lists them showing discontinued.  I have a Frigidare cook top and after all these years I got the bright I idea to try one of the knobs from my Frigidaire Cook top.  It worked!  The cook top is about the\nsame age as the oven.  Could not find the Frigidaire knobs either.  So I took a chance for about 20 bucks to try these as they were made for cook tops and Frigidaire being a cook top, I ordered the Aqua Plumb.\nThey  WORKED!  They are much, much better than the original.  I three main ones replaced and now for the hunt for the small light and clock buttons as they won't last long.  I have to also got a email from the company in Canada saying my order was on the way and if I have any problems with them that they were there to help.  Also I should say the silver inserts on the knobs have numbers for heat indicators.  I took them off but the knows looked plain and I replaced the silver inserts as they look much better with my stainless steel convection wall oven even though I don't need the numbers except OFF.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2023, "id": 200965, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 282, "len_tokens": 326, "text": "Ordered a pair of these after both sides broke on my 20 month old KitchenAid dishwasher. Apparently, a lot of people have had these parts fail so it is likely a Whirlpool manufacturing defect (or just a really poorly made part). I won't bash the part because it is what you need and fixes the problem (at least temporarily). Anyway, replacing them was easy, maybe 3 minutes per side. A small, flat-bladed screwdriver will help with one of the clips but the others you can take off easily with no tools. Just keep track of the clips as you take them off and re-install in reverse order. A fast and easy fix at 20% of the cost of a service call.\n\nOne important note - the clips that held the wheels in place are the parts that broke off. At least two of these pieces of plastic, about the size of a flattened jelly bean, worked their way into the pump and filter housing and jammed up the dishwasher. I had to have a repair person come out, disassemble the screens and the pump to remove the pieces. Yes, this little piece of broken plastic caused the entire dishwasher to stop working. If it had been something I dropped in there, I'd have felt bad but since it was a KA piece that failed and then stopped the dishwasher, not so much. My advice would be to replace both sides as soon as even one of the wheels breaks off. FWIW, I called KA and even though the d/w was out of warranty, I was able to convince them to cover the service call for the problem the clips caused.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2024, "id": 265162, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 260, "len_tokens": 310, "text": "Very happy with this little machine. While I was initially shocked at the cost of a portable, apartment sized dishwasher, I am happy I made the purchase.\n\nMy first impression was the packaging.  The biggest challenge is this item showing up free of damage. There is a concrete block on the bottom for balancing that makes this item extremely heavy. This could make for a very upset UPS driver that is less than cautious about slamming your purchase around. The item came packaged perfectly. There is an outer plain/nondescript box that has Styrofoam all around, then an inner box which is also well padded and protected that has \"dishwasher\" printed. Unpacking was super easy. I did use a dolly and a neighbors help to get it up the 3 steps into my apartment, but once inside it rolled around easily on its wheels.  Connecting it was a snap! I simply screwed on the faucet adapter to my male threaded faucet. The hose was easy to connect and I ran my first load of dishes quickly. I had to run the \"all in one\" cycle because I purchased all in one detergent tabs. That cycle is pretty long...close to 2 hours. The cycle length caught me off guard, but I'm happy to ease my workload and get help with dishes. There are shorter 60-90 minute cycles-you just have to use the detergent type that goes into the chamber. The dishes came out sparkling! I had zero problems or leaks. I am very very happy with my purchase and would buy again!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2025, "id": 111638, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 300, "len_tokens": 355, "text": "I came across this range hood by shopping in my local Lowe's. They only had it in-store in black, so I shopped around to Home Depot & Menards and found that neither of them carried this model at all. Instead of ordering this model in white through Lowe's website, I checked Amazon and found it for $55 cheaper! I had the previous model but needed to replace it after I burned out the circuit panel (my fault.) This update is great because it moved the light bulbs to the SIDES of the hood, instead of the front. This distributes light much more effectively, and places more hood over my front burners, which helps in air removal. Speaking of air removal, this is my only gripe. The unit has 2 speeds. At low, it is indeed VERY quiet, but this is because it moves almost NO air. It is more of a passive air circulation. The other level is LOUD, but removes enough air when I am boiling a pot or cooking in a skillet. I wish it removed MORE air, but it does enough. Some folks are finding the bulbs difficult to install, I did not experience any difficulties. I used the included suction cup and they all \"popped\" (rotation wise) right into place and work perfectly. I did use the adjustment screws included to level the bulbs to the hood level, this greatly improves the look and performance of the bulbs. By the way - buy your bulbs here on Amazon as well - they are 1/5 the price. I got all 4 bulbs for less than what my local hardware store was charging for one bulb. Between the cost savings on the hood + bulbs, I figure I saved almost $100, even with shipping figured in. GREAT DEAL!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2026, "id": 62683, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 254, "len_tokens": 310, "text": "I have purchased many GE appliances over the years and been very satisfied.  You expect \"6 sigma\" products and service from GE.\n\nThis arrived in good shape and worked as expected out of the box.  Cleaning is a breeze.  I do prefer Gas to induction as it seems to heat the whole pot instead of just the bottom.  So you need to learn to cook a little differently.\n\nNow the problem...less than 1 month of use and the \"3 light\" problem showed up.  Only one burner was working.  Since the problem showed up, I have seen other reviews on Amazon and on other sites with the same issue.\n\nYou can't call for service except during M-F business hours. The tech came out and said we needed parts but they were on backorder.  GE would not replace the unit despite not being able to tell when the parts would arrive.  They did offer to pay for a rental stove.  A rental stove?  You must be kidding.  Where would someone put such a thing?  On the back porch?  What about wiring?  LOL\n\nLong story short, it was a $600 control board which was installed about a month later.  Unit is now working normally.\n\nI would not recommend purchasing this unit as it may have a design issue or simply poor QC on their electronic boards.  You can't make a judgement based on one incident but why take a chance?\n\nBTW GE offered me nothing for the inconvenience and suggested buying an extended warranty for over $300.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2027, "id": 265157, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 189, "len_tokens": 316, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-RFP1POWPYEJXT\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81lYKLqwPFS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/919Mvb76mJS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;My boyfriend and I live in an apartment with no dishwasher, so this was definitely a smart purchase.\nI just received this portable dishwasher today.\nI opened the package immediately. No dents, scratches, marks or anything! It was in perfect shape!\nReally easy to setup and I immediately threw my dirty dishes in. I have tons of dishes; enough for 6 people. (My boyfriend and I both work crazy hectic jobs and we are known to get lazy with keeping up with dirty dishes, so they stack up.)\nHad no problems starting up the dishwasher. Very easy process. Decided to start with Heavy Duty and see how well it cleans everything that's been sitting for a while. (Will be writing a review after the dishes are done.)\nI'm so excited about not having to wash them by hand anymore! Yayayay!!!\n\n*EDIT*\nAfter washing a few loads, I am still very happy with my purchase! This little machine was definitely necessary and I hope it helps someone else make their decision in purchasing! I LOVE my dishwasher!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2028, "id": 239974, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 276, "len_tokens": 316, "text": "I purchased this for a 3 year old Bravos XL washer that started to leak oil and make a horrible loud noise when spinning.  I was so mad that an $800 washer only lasted that long but after much online research found that it is a common problem with these washers. So I bought this kit for under $70 (amazon had it the cheapest out of anywhere). I did not buy the accompanying tool to go with it - I went to the local hardware store, bought a 1/2 inch x 6 inch large threaded zinc bolt with accompanying nut and with 4 large washers (two the size of the bearings and two smaller for reinforcement). My home made tool cost $4 - the only problem is that I did not have a fancy arm to go in the sump area and hold it steady so I needed two sets of hands to tighten the nuts.\n\nI am quite handy and have done all sorts of work around the house from plumbing to electrical but I never repaired a washing machine. There were many youtube videos and instructionals online that I watched to make sure I was prepared. The whole project took me about 2.5 hours from start to finish, and this fixed the problem. The washer is now running like new again and is silent. I highly recommend this kit!\n\nUpdate 4/25/17:\nI take back everything I said. The bearings are already leaking after less than a year and I am back to where I started with the loud noise. I have emailed amazon to see if I can try a new one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2029, "id": 551668, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 261, "len_tokens": 302, "text": "The dish washer breaks one day.. Isn't draining, isn't squirting water. So I call this guy out to get an estimate.. He quotes me one child and half my house. Decided to take matters into my own hands.. Took everything out of the dish washer including the baskets. Then removed the two screws from the bottom of the counter top and slid the dish washer out. Yes they look pretty ugly. After that had to remove a hose clamp from the drain hose and drain the nasty water into a bucket.\n\nFrom there it's two more hose clamps, then twist off the water spray bar inside the dish washer, oh and remove a plug. After that you sit with this motor and impeller housing in your hands. You basically look down at the old impeller and cry because it's totally trashed and you'll have to wash dishes by hand until this new one arrives. To put the new one in you basically twist off this impeller guard with some needle nose plyers. Then slide this awesome new impeller on the motor shaft like it's condom and put everything back together.\n\nHonestly if you can change the oil on your car you can install this impeller in your dish washer. It cheap, and beats paying a guy $200 so you can look down his ass crack while he puts one in for you. The hardest part was getting the dish washer out from under the counter.. That and having to wait on shipping 'cause I couldn't get this part via Amazon Prime.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2030, "id": 211245, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 307, "len_tokens": 355, "text": "Just so you know: I rate things for what they are, not for what they could never be. For instance, this gets 5 stars as a portable washer when no hook up is available not as a replacement for a top of the line hook up washer.\n\nI have been using my Panda Washing Machine with Spin Dryer for 2 months now. It has been wonderful for me living in an apartment with no washer/dryer hook up. When it first arrived I was worried b/c the delivery service had left it upside down in the rain outside of my covered front porch. As soon as I saw it, I brought it in and dried it off as much as possible. I immediately contacted Panda, and they handled my concerns with professionalism and care. It turned out that my drying efforts were sufficient and the machine is operating without hiccups 2 months later, but I still appreciate the customer service I received in the face of my concerns.\n\nHere are some things I have done to get the most out of my washer:\n1) I'm using 2 additional filters, 1 floating one that I've tied to the side and one that I've attached to the end of the drain hose.\n2) I put it on a coffee table so that when it drains I don't get water stuck in the hose.\n3) I use my extendable shower head to fill the washer rather than the hose provided because you have to hold the hose provided the entire time it's filling if you're using hot water.\n4) Do not use garment bags. This machine is rough and will tear your delicates and garment bags. I've been using cheese cloth bags with the strings tucked inside and those have been holding up much better.\nHope you guys enjoy yours too!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2031, "id": 461214, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 247, "len_tokens": 355, "text": "We bought this Dryer about 12 months ago when suddenly our older ( 20 yr older ) Dryer broke. We had just been laid off and of course did not want to have to have a large purchase but who can live without a dependable dryer these days. I researched and read all the reviews that i could and saw that this one had some pretty solid positive reviews. So we finally decided to go ahead and purchase this one. So here we are 12 months later and figured it was time to write our review.\nWe are giving this Dryer a 5 Star Rating! It was very easy to install. Has a very wide front door so that it is even easy to put the larger quilts and comforters into. It is very quiet and no matter how big of a load it has in it we NEVER have to run it on any heat temp except LOW and the clothes dry ultra quick. We have several single relatives who come over often WITH THEIR LAUNDRY and they usually look like Santa Claus coming in the front door with his huge bag over his shoulder. This dryer has been an amazing workhorse so far and we cannot say enough about it. It has been the best dryer. Yes a basic dryer but still has multiple cycles and temps. The best dryer we have ever had!<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Amana-6-5-Cubic-Foot-Traditional-Gas-Dryer-NGD4500VQ-White/dp/B001E1QHN8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Amana 6.5 -Cubic Foot Traditional Gas Dryer, NGD4500VQ, White</a>", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2032, "id": 558992, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 282, "len_tokens": 345, "text": "I don't own this specific model, but I own a very similar one so I feel it my duty to review a similar model to mine. I have had specific issues with burners lighting and the oven taking 45 minutes to get to 300 degrees, only to stop there. Notice, these issues came up in under three years but over one, so my warranty is gone.\n\nThe best word to describe this thing is 'flimsy'. Its thin metal, and plastic handles makes me wonder how its not a safety hazard. It may even work well for a year or two, but I guarantee, with this thin flimsy metal, and loose construction, its going to break down sooner rather than never.\n\nAlso, the attention towards electronic enhancements is a complete joke. It literally has a clock, and a timer that is just weak,  which good luck on figuring out how to set either one. It has no temp indicator, no bake timer that shuts your oven off automatically, no nothing.  I mean, it lacks even the most basic oven electronic advancements you get with the most standard ranges.\n\nThat bottom door for storage, feels like it could fall off at any second, and it probably will, soon. The actual oven door is all screwed together, tough to install and makes it difficult to see anything inside.\n\nIT TAKES FOREVER TO PREHEAT!!\n\nI know what your thinking, \"man this looks great\" and it sorta does, until you use/touch it, then your like \"nooooooo\". For the money, you could get the best GE or a Thor or spend the extra grand or so and get the Viking or Wolf, I guarantee you'll enjoy those more", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2033, "id": 3184, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 303, "len_tokens": 375, "text": "After searching a lot of different models of kegerators out there, I finally settled on this unit.  Although the reviews were not great it had the best features for the price out there.  The temperature problem seems to have been resolved, and I did get everything that was suppose to come with the unit. (most people complained about a missing washer.)  The secret as with most kegerators is to allow 24 to 36 hours for the refrigerator to stabilize the temperature before putting a Keg in it.  It is one of the few Kegerators that can fit a Coors Light 1/2 barrel keg.  Also I the C02 tank is inside the fridge.  Most other models it is on the outside which makes you unable to push it flush against the wall.\n\nSo here are the bads:\n1.  D style coupler is metal outside  with mostly plastic internal parts so i don't know that it will hold up in the long run.\n2.  The restrainer for the C02 tank came with 2 mounting screws but the pilot holds for it was too small to use.  The screws are not self tapping. (i don't plan on moving the kegerator around so i doubt the C02 tank will ever fall even without the restrainer.\n3.  The screws for the tower are standard fillips head self tapping screws it is hard not to strip the screws when mounting, a hex or Allen wrench style would have been better.\n4.  The wheels do come with it, however there is no locks on it so it will just roll everywhere which makes it very hard to use with them.  I choose to do with out them.\n\nHope this helps those considering this kegerator.  The bads to me are very minor and overall I feel this was a great value.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2034, "id": 164877, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 263, "len_tokens": 342, "text": "1 Week ownership = 5 Stars.\n\n1) Yeah, it's quiet - really quiet, BUT do you really need a red led shining on the floor to remind you it's running?  Not a big thing, just sorta funny.\n2) Fit and Finish is better, much better than others.  If you are an attention to detail kinda person, it won't take you long to see what I'm referring to when compared to other \"like products/brands\".  You can tell it was designed with above average intelligence for sure.\n3) Took a bit to wrap my brain around no disposal and the non-traditional drying cycle/element.  We always scrape the actual food off anyway and haven't had a single issue with drying cycle IE less than dry dishes.  Yes, our hot water is HOT.\n4) The stainless front is very nice.  They could have spent a little more money on the top (plastic with metallic finish) trim plate.  Already has a couple scuffs, very slight.  After a year or two of wear and tear I'll buy a new one and just consider it consumable.\n5) Not sure about you, but I have plenty of devices in my life that beep at me.  I really don't need my dishwasher beeping at me to let me know it's cycle is complete.  I'm positive that when the red light on the floor goes off, that will be sufficient.  Maybe there is a setting to turn the beeping off?  Will find out...\n6) Seriously, you gotta buy it.  It really is a great machine despite being quirky, but hey, it's German, right?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2035, "id": 324912, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 318, "len_tokens": 384, "text": "I ordered this motor on Thursday, and with expedited shipping it was on my front door by Friday evening.  The best part was that even with this custom, first rate, speedy delivery, it was still less than what my nearby part store was selling it for.  To be fair, I would have paid the extra to buy it locally if for no other reason than to avoid having refrigerator parts lying around the kitchen for an extra 24 hours, but hey, I'm not complaining.\n\nFor those considering replacing this part yourselves, it is really quite easy.  If your refrigerator is like mine, you need to slide out the tray on the outside of the water/ice dispenser, revealing two screws holding the control panel in place.  This slides upwards and out, revealing the inner parts of the water dispenser and electrical to the motor.  Take pictures if you need to as you remove 6 or 8 more screws, nothing complicated, to get to the motor.  Also, on the inside (cold side) of the door panel, you will need to remove the socket the engages the bottom of the ice bucket.  This comes out as two screws, and engagement interface and a spring (don't worry, it's not one of those that is impossible to get back together).\n\nThe motor is driven by the two heavier wires, and I guess you could test the unit with an ohm meter.  Mine went to 0 when I checked these two prongs, but I (oops) never checked the new motor before I installed it, so I don't know what a normal reading would be.  The symptom of mine was the ice drop flap open and closed when I pressed the ice paddle, but the motor never turned.\n\nAnyway, the new motor is great, my wife is happy, we have crushed ice again, and the old motor is in the recycle bin.  Good luck.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2036, "id": 103842, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 342, "len_tokens": 397, "text": "I have had many compliments on this vent. I looks great. We have shopped quite a lot and for this style of design, it is the least expensive and most efficient we could find. We are satisfied. I am very happy with it. It suck bad smells and grease out efficiently, even at low. We deep fried stuff and I think it did a good job minimizing the oil smell. It comes up very easily, we had to look at the instructions only once to make sure we were putting the anchors right. It's delicate and looks classy. But like with all glass and stainless appliances, be ready to clean it all the time, the dirt and dust shows.\n\nThere are a couple of cons that I wouldn't see as deal breakers but someone else might:\n\nIt is not quiet. Mind you, I have never seen one I found quiet.\nThe light is crappy, if you want it as additional lighting, this is not the thing for you. These little blue LEDs are decorative at most, be sure you have another source of light.\nThe construction doesn't seem as clever as the 2000$ ones, but if you don't plan on hanging yourself from it, it is sturdy enough. I mean when you put it together, you can figure out that it is a visual copy from a great designer item and it doesn't have all the bling with it, (multiple adjustment holes, double brackets, etc.). There are little construction flaws that you will notice as you install it, but once it is up, no one will ever know it is not the expensive one. For example, there is no screw hole or hook to stop the front pipe cover not to droop about 1/4 inch at the top front junction with the ceiling; the cover is supported only by the screws fixed on the wall. But you just have to put your own nail or cock it and it will do the same and once done, nobody will know but you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2037, "id": 87546, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2038, "id": 429517, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 252, "len_tokens": 314, "text": "If you have floors you value it is not worth taking the chance on ANY of the filters Amazon sells...while you might think the product from Samsung is overpriced, it is NOT identical to this filter or any of the others I have seen on Amazon's site. The factory unit has two O rings at the top while all the others have a single O ring. If you check the model number on these after-market units they all say DA2900002B and may even claim to specifically fit your refrigerator model, but as best I can tell that number is an NSF registration number. SOME products will also show a number HAF-CIN-EXP or some such. But the correct Samsung filter now is HAF-CIN-2PEXP as listed here (note that the picture shows the apparently older HAF-CIN-EXP): [...]. The actual part number on the filter is A6352. Without the second O ring there is every possiblity that the cartridge will leak...and it is very likely to not be noticed until water spills out on the floor. While the geniune Samsung unit costs twice as much, we now have cupped boards in front of the refrigerator. While I'm sure Amazon might honor the guarantee on the product to give me back the price this hardly covers the damaged hardwood. Save yourself some grief...Samsung will automatically send you a new correct cartgridge for $35 on a six month replacement plan...this poor substitue sells for around half that. Hardwood is a heck of a lot more costly.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2039, "id": 18495, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 245, "len_tokens": 374, "text": "These are not the same as the original filter that came with the humidifier. The original had a blue fabric exterior that acted as an additional filtration layer. The new filters are inferior. They do not absorb water as well and collapse inward and take on a square shape. My humidifier is running approximately two times longer than normal. There's some odd orange color blooming on the filter exterior. So much for the Protec Antimicrobially Treatment. Never saw anything like that on the original filters. I'm going to contact Honeywell for a refund. Then I'll find a replacement filter that has better structure and absorption.\n\n2/16/16 update: I've tried these filters&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Humidifier-Filter-Replacement-for-Honeywell-HCM-6009-HC-14N-Filter-E-3-Pack/dp/B016QSB4UO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Humidifier Filter Replacement for Honeywell HCM-6009 HC-14N Filter-E (3-Pack)</a>&nbsp;and found them superior to the original Honeywell filters that had the blue fabric exterior. These Exact Fit Parts replacement are better than the original Honeywill filters! They have a white fabric exterior layer to act as dust filter, and a rigid metal layer to keep the filter shape and prevent it from imploding. These filters stay moist as they should and keep dust out of the filter element. The metal grid maintains the structure of the filter. These work better than the original Honeywell filters. I'm able to maintain the desired humidity level in my home with less run time on the humidifier. ----->> The Exact Fit Parts replacements stay moist and maintain their structure even under extremely low humidity levels.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2040, "id": 534806, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 275, "len_tokens": 306, "text": "I used to run a restaurant equipment company so when it comes to this kind of stuff I think Im kinda an expert, lol. First... this is a good to high quality product. The stainless is a good grade equal to what you would see on a commercial unit like a wolf or American Range. The burners are very high quality with an excellent electronic start that will restart your flame automatically if they go out.... The broilers burner is awesome and better than you will find on many units costing way more. The convection fan is very quiet, in fact so quiet you can't really hear it. That brings me to the only negative. The convection fans switch does not have a light on it so it is a little difficult to know when its on...... I can alway put a lighted switch in...\n\nIts been a couple of months and I thought I would give you all an update... I had a small problem with the front burners in that they would try and start when you put a 9 inch or lager pan on them even though they were already on. I called Thur and got help from their service agency and in a reasonable amount of time they had the factory service at my house replacing the burners with  a new design that has completely resolved the problem.\n\nWe are still very happy with our purchase and would recommend it to even the most demanding home cooks. The burners are better than you will get on any of the higher priced name brand units... This is a very heavy duty range...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2041, "id": 511451, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 339, "len_tokens": 390, "text": "I was so excited about his fridge! It's so HUGE! and it had lost of great storage methods. I've had it for 6 months and the first few months I was pretty happy with it. However recently my milk that is sitting in the very back middle shelf is being frozen, as well as any veggies in the lower left compartment?  I'm not sure why it just started, I've have attempted to move things around move things around and make room for the vents, but nothing seems to help it. I'm going to be contacting customer services about this soon, but from what I've heard and read LG is pretty bad to work with. The other thing I would say negatively is the lowest shelf is the width of the entire fridge so you have to open both doors to get into this drawer, which is the drawer I use the most so it's pretty annoying. I wish it would have made two instead of one so you could open or door or the other. Also when I made the middle shelf high enough to fit milk it leaves very little room on the top shelf, just enough to fit a cartoon of eggs. So as large as it is, I don't think in reality it  actually utilized the space at all. The shelves on the doors which you usually would use to store condiments don't fit most sizes of ANYTHING! So frustrating! They are very very narrow shelves. So you can't fit much before the shelf is filled up. Again very large fridge but not utilized well!! I do love the extra door though. I love having two milks and my butter in there. Also for me I love using my fridge for daily reminders with magnets, however this fridge is not magnetizable!!!! WHAT??? So I guess if I can fix the freezing I will keep it, because it was a PAIN to install as it's HUGE!! so I don't want to remove it unless we HAVE TO!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2042, "id": 87606, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2043, "id": 95419, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 256, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "I really wanted these to work out, since they are much cheaper than the Samsung brand, but even when they are brand new, I don't like the taste of the water they produce. The water that goes through this filter goes almost exclusively into my ice maker; I hardly ever use filtered fridge water. If I'm drinking soda with crushed ice, the taste is less noticeable. But for ice water using Clear2O filtered water, no way. You can tell the difference a mile off. I'm not speaking to its contaminant-filtering abilities, which may be fine, but the taste is icky. So from now on I'm going to bite the bullet & pay for the brand-name filters.\n\nUpdate 12/27/12 I have to say, I suppose I have gotten used to the taste. So sue me. At first it was kind of shocking, but because I am too cheap to just throw them away I kept using them (i.e., used the icemaker ice) when I was too lazy to get the ice out of trays (I have to use both, because I am an ice-o-holic who can bottom out an icemaker any time of year). The taste doesn't bother me as much, even though I'm always sort of mentally braced for it. I have 2 filters to go, so probably by the time I get through those two I won't notice any difference at all. I don't know why I sound so grudging about this. Maybe I'm not the water snob I think I am, or something.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2044, "id": 220082, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 324, "len_tokens": 386, "text": "It looks beautiful and the double oven works well but this range has some serious shortcomings; if I had known then what I know now, we would have bought something else. If LG would give me our money back, I'd gladly take them up on it. They refused to print my review on their site so I'm posting it here.\n\nFirst, there is very little space at the bottom rear of the range for the stored heavy 220 volt electric cord; I had to move our outlet under the floor to get this range to slide all the way back against the wall. Second, I hate the touch-type electronic \"on-off-adjusting\" feature for the \"burners\"; it takes much longer to go from 10 to 4, for example, than twisting or turning a knob. I think there are too many small \"burners\" and not enough medium sized; the left front, for example is either \"small,\" \"large,\" or both, the rear two burners are very small, and the right front is the only \"medium/large.\" It also seems to take longer for the burners to get \"hot\" than our old range, and the top surface is much harder to clean than our old range.\n\nThen, there is a major fault with the ovens: each door has an opening that the \"latch\" fits into when you close the door. In the first week that we owned this range, something spilled while taking it out of the oven and got into this opening; it then ran down the inside of the two glass \"windows\" when we closed the door and looks like hell now. There should be a seal inside the door to prevent this from happening. (We called LG and they refuse to admit the design flaw and say we would have to pay to have that taken apart and cleaned.)\n\nWe paid a lot of money for this range and it is definitely a big disappointment.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2045, "id": 495563, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 258, "len_tokens": 307, "text": "We've had the same washer for 12+ years.  We have two children, now in their mid to late teens, who play a lot of sports. We've probably done an average of 20 loads of laundry per week. The washer finally broke down this week, which is why I'm looking for a replacement. We love this washer and will definitely replace it with the latest version.\n\nWe understand that a front loader has to have a water tight seal so that water does not spill when washing. When we're done with laundry, we just leave the door open to allow the interior to dry. We've never had any issue with mold or mildew. It is sad that in our litigious society, the cost of this appliance will go up because consumers will sue for mold/mildew as a manufacturer defect rather than use common sense. If you can't leave the washer door open after use, it's best not to buy a front loader.\n\nI like that this washer uses very little water. I use an eco-friendly detergent, Mrs Meyers Clean Day - Lemon. It leaves clothes looking and smelling clean. When I need to use bleach, I use it as instructed, and always do the white load last, prior to washing cleaning rags. This is not something I do just because of the low water use; I've always done it to avoid any bleach residue getting on dark / colored clothes. Unlike other reviewers, I've never had an issue with clothes not getting clean or with bleach ruining our clothes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2046, "id": 87494, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2047, "id": 170358, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 296, "len_tokens": 372, "text": "Easy to install, churns out ice faster than old one...my guess is old one was not heating the ice to pop it out fast or the surface was worn so ice wasn't slipping out fast enough.\n\nThis fixed a BIG problem.  At first the old one starting getting ice stuck.  That progressed to where water was periodically staying stuck on too long flooding the freezer.  I read water stuck on was more often a separate issue not related to icemaker, but replacing the icemaker fixed all my problems for me.\n\nOne reviewer said he had to make a minor mod to it and this scared me...it shouldn't have.  He said it was not a big deal and after seeing what he was talking about it is NOT a big deal.  I did NOT have to make the mod, but if you do its easy.  Basically, the back of the icemaker is where the water tube flows in...the tube is like a trough, not a connection.  Anyway, the old icemaker had a U shaped cutout the tube/trough rested on...the new one has a circle cutout it fits through.  He had to cut the circle into a U I think.  It is no big deal, its easy to simply cut the plastic if need be.  But I didn't have to.  The tube easily fit through the hole with room to spare.\n\nHere is a WARNING UNRELATED to the icemaker...CLEAN YOUR HIDDEN COILS or you will OVERHEAT your compressor and break your fridge.  The coils are often on the BOTTOM instead of the back...I did not know this and thought the coils were somehow self contained since I didn't see them.  Dust bunnies clog them EASY.  Buy a narrow coil cleaning brush and vacuum as you pull stuff out.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2048, "id": 465945, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 277, "len_tokens": 320, "text": "I love my new electric stove.  I am not happy it isn't self cleaning but that was not available in the 20\" size I had to get to fit into my apartment.  I was also disappointed the cord did not come with it and that top panel was not attached and so much had to be done by me.  I had thought all I would have to do would be to plug it in- Wrong!!  I should have read the information closer or at least the reviews.  I have used the oven twice and it has maintained an even temperature which is what I was looking for.  I like the lights that indicate a burner that is still hot even long after you turn off the burner, the oven light and really like the clock.  The clock has large numbers and is easy to adjust.  It arrived on time, well packaged and the deliverymen were wonderful- very careful and polite.  Overall I am very pleased with my stove.\nI bought this stove and posted the above review but have had nothing but trouble getting the oven to hold the correct temperature.  I even had the Thermometer changed which was expensive and hard to do.  I had a hard time also finding a repairman that would service it.  After replacing the thermometer for $300 the repairman thought it might have been defective so I am having it replaced again although the repairman suggested by the company now is not returning my calls.  I cannot find anyone that will even look at it!!!!  This was a serious mistake and I will not buy something like this from Amazon again!!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2049, "id": 120904, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 302, "len_tokens": 375, "text": "We bought the washer a little over a year ago.  As soon as the warranty ended, I mean literally, within three days, it stopped working.  It wouldn't spin anymore.\n\nWhen we called for service, they said it would cost $200 just for someone to come out and look at it.  So, my husband and I flipped the washer over and took a look.  The belt had come off the gear, which by the way, has no ridge to hold the belt in place, so even though we were able to put it back on and get it working, I am sure it will happen again.\n\nThis is the stupidest, finickiest washer to load.  If you don't place things in just right, it gets unbalanced and it won't spin your clothes dry.  There is no agitator in the center to keep the clothes in line.  Just about every load I wash, I have to stop the load, realign the clothes and restart it.  Even then, I have to put it to drain and spin at the end of the load because the clothes are still soaking wet.\n\nI can't let anyone else use the washer (my kids) because they don't know how to load it properly to get it to work.  Because it won't stay in balance, it takes about 2 hours to complete one load.  It would be faster for me to wash my clothes by hand.\n\nDo NOT, I repeat, DO NOT buy this machine.  I wish I would have read some reviews before buying.\n\nThis is without a doubt the biggest piece of junk I have ever wasted money on.  Whirlpool, I cannot tell you how disappointed I am in you.  You used to be the best,  what the heck is this piece of junk you are peddling on us!!!???", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2050, "id": 182769, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 260, "len_tokens": 395, "text": "After much research, and driving far and wide to locate one up close and personal to look at, hands down this was the range for us.\n\nIt is beautifully made, very sleek and modern, and works like a dream. All fans on it (convection and component cooling) are whisper quiet. The control board is located on the front (unlike the free-standing model) and is very intuitive to use. It is definitely what I call \"granny friendly,\" i.e. even those from the non-digital age will be able to use it easily.\n\nThe oven is very spacious and at high altitude only took 13 minutes to heat from cold to 425 degrees. I especially love the sliding rack and will be replacing the other two standard racks with those. Even at 425 degrees, the front of the oven door remained cool to the touch, suggesting that this stove is very well insulated. The first batch of cookies in it came out beautifully and the timing was +/- 1 minute from my usual recipe so I call that spot on.\n\nThe first time I used the stovetop, I put pan down, turned the heat to 5 and dropped in a pat of butter which began to melt *instantly* and I do mean instantly. Water boils in no time, and clean-up is a breeze.\n\nThe pans I am using are:&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Cuisinart-FCT-10-French-Classic-Tri-Ply-Stainless-10-Piece-Cookware-Set/dp/B004YV5Z3S/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Cuisinart FCT-10 French Classic Tri-Ply Stainless 10-Piece Cookware Set</a>&nbsp;and they work fantastically with this stove.\n\nI could not be more thrilled, and will update this review as time goes on.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2051, "id": 515658, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 263, "len_tokens": 334, "text": "I purchased this model through Sears in January 2011.  After the delivery, I noticed there was a gap in the top of the freezer - it wasn't sealing correctly.  So I called for a repair under warranty, and they replaced the gasket.  It seemed ok for a few weeks, and then the same thing happened.  So a few weeks later I had it replaced again.  I even held onto one of the older gaskets.  I should note, the door itself does not seem even - it appears it might be misshapen.  But the repair people kept trying to fix it with the gasket, rather than a new door.  Or even a new freezer.\n\nSince it seemed to be working for a while, I stopped paying close attention to it.  Then, early this year, I noticed once again there was a gap.  I contacted Whirlpool to see if there was anything they could do, as clearly this was an ongoing issue.  They refused to help, stating it was out of warranty.\n\nAt this point the freezer \"runs\" very frequently, more often than not.  It's using far more energy than it should, and the whole reason I bought it was to replace a 30 year old freezer.  I am very disappointed in Whirlpool's customer service, I feel like I bought a defective product or a \"lemon\", and they refuse to resolve the problem.  I would definitely not recommend this product, or even any Whirlpool product based on their lack of customer service.  I may have to get a new freezer after less than 3 years!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2052, "id": 545454, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 250, "len_tokens": 301, "text": "Absolute worst dishwasher I have ever used.  Cycles take forever to run, dry cycle leaves items wet, and after only 4 months we come in to find the drain motor running and it giving an error message that there's a leak.  We weren't home - it wasn't even on or running. Ok, fine... but then there's NO way to cancel this error message and make it stop running the drain motor!  Opening the door doesn't help, nor holding the power or start buttons.  It would run forever until you turn off the circuit breaker that goes to it.  A call to support (foreign call center) yielded no help.  This is the 4th Samsung appliance that was bought as part of a package deal that has worked poorly.  You can guess what brand I'm not buying ever again.\n\nAnd a side note to anyone who makes dishwashers - having a small light and beep that goes off to indicate possible leaks is a nice feature... having a dishwasher that automatically turns itself ON and then almost continuously runs the drain motor until you turn off the power circuit at the breaker box?  NO - that is NOT a good feature.  What if someone goes on a 1-2 week vacation?  Will they come home to a burned down home because the thing ran the whole time?  Seriously who thought that was a good idea to not be able to turn off the thing once it goes into alert mode?  That's potentially dangerous.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2053, "id": 395362, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 272, "len_tokens": 352, "text": "Pros:I was very impressed with not only the performance characteristics/standards & price, but also the level of product quality...especially in comparison to the unbelievable product cost.  If it wasn't for the thread of previous reviews I would not have taken the risk to purchase.  Previous reviews were spot on.  A ridiculous true value without the quality compromise. This product has an impressive 870 CFM accompanied by extremely low decibels; lower levels were virtually unnoticeable. Although I upgraded the exhaust duct to a more flexible rigid type, and the task lighting to LED...it wasn't required, and was done so purely from personal taste and past experience. Since this product comes with angle iron down-supports to accommodate taller ceiling mounting, I have a low 91 inch ceiling height and was able to double the supports to add an extra element of suspension-strength.  No cutting, bending, or welding was required for anything (even electrical cord includes attached plug).  Incidentally, chimney length did not require alteration/shortening.  With all that, I still maintained a 32 inch distance above the cook surface. Installation was simple, but be wary where your trusses or rafters are before cutting the exhaust port or installing/drilling your mounting bolt holes.  Cons: The clock LED is truly bright but tolerable, and suffices as a blue kitchen night light. When compared to other SS kitchen appliances, the SS has a lightly subdued bronze tint.  Product was packed well, and I don't know if this was a previously returned item but the canopy edge (2 sides) has noticeable dents....luckily these face away from 1st line of sight.  I would've exchanged the product if purchased locally.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2054, "id": 469223, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 276, "len_tokens": 354, "text": "Came in damaged, but i think that is because of transport.\n\nthe biggest problem I had was finding a connection from 1/4 to my water supply 3/4.. that is realy stupid. Why don't they make a bigger connection??\n\nAnyhow. First turned it on, it produces one cycle only and stopped. Could not figure out why.\nI unplugged, tried several times. Nothing. Next morning again, and same. 1 cycle and thats it.\n\nI opend front cover and found a mode button. I pushed that and the machine started working cycle after cycle and filled up the bin very fast.\n\nI hope it stays this way.\n\nIce is nice clear and good shaped. I like it.\n\n3 stars because they should make the buttons outside ad not inside the machine it self. And they should supply a better hose or at lease couplings to go to 1/2\"or 3/4\"\nI am on a remote Island and besides Coconuts we don't have hardware stores.\n\nUPDATE 3 august 2014... back to 1 star.\n\nOkay.. its a piece of s***.\nat first I could hit the mode button but that was only for 3 times. This thing stoppes after one load.\nI called Orien and they send me a new part (level sensor)\nI mounted that but no improvement.\n\nThey promised me a new part after discussing internaly and I waited and waited. Seemed that they never sended a new part.\nI emailed again... no answer.\n\nI am still writing them cause I don't want to throw a $1100 machine away but in between I ordered a new machine at an other company.\n\nTo bad... things with this value should work flawless.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2055, "id": 363233, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 271, "len_tokens": 319, "text": "Rapid heating, easy install. Looks great on the counter. Only gripe so far is the touch controls are not as responsive as I would like, would like more like my phone. Technology and options are a love/hate with me. Sometimes I just think manufacturers add on little bells and whistles just bc they can, not bc they're needed. Going through options on this would be much easier if it were connected to the phone with Bluetooth and an app. Such as turning off the alert noises. I liked the audio tones the first time I used the cooktop but are now becoming annoying. Setting the timers would be much easier with an app. But enough about what this doesn't have. When burner is first turned on you can hear the magnet working with what I call a \"sizzle\" on the pan. Heat is fast and responsive. Takes a while to figure out temperature settings, at least it did for me coming from an electric cooktop. Love that it doesn't burn food onto the top if it splatters over or drops down the pan after a pour. Connecting the 2 burners with sync is easy and works well with the included griddle. I actually like that the center of it stays cooler so I can slide some items that are done cooking into the area to keep warm. This went into a new quartz counter so figment was not an issue and the supplied cutout dimension left arround an 1/8\" of play. Would purchase again at price obtained. Seemed like the best deal for the price and am satisfied with the purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2056, "id": 164956, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 275, "len_tokens": 326, "text": "In the first month or two we had four service calls. After the second call it was in worse shape than before and they had to replace the entire electronics panel on the third visit. The fourth one was because a bit of plastic somehow got through the filter, or was already inside, and jammed the pump.\n\nWell, now it won't run most cycles. It makes a sound like it wants to but then dies. Sometimes if you wait all night it might run, but usually not. The only mode that starts within 5-10 minutes of starting it is the express mode. Looking forward to service call number 5\n\nOh, and it when it does run it defaults to beeping really loudly when it's done, over and over and over and over until you get up at 2AM to make your dishwasher stop beeping, Brilliant design. There is an extremely obtuse and obfuscated way to turn it off, but you will never figure it out without reading the manual.\n\nEdit: so we had more problems - I can't get any mode to run anymore, but he drain pump will randomly turn on, even when the door is open, and just suck air for hours and hours, sometime the power button won't turn it on or off, yada yada - and Bosch sent out a tech to look at it. He decided it was something electrical he can't fix so Bosch is actually going to replace it, even though it's out of the 1 year warranty (though we've only used it 10 or 11 months). I hope the replacement does a better job cleaning dishes.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2057, "id": 486179, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 280, "len_tokens": 348, "text": "First:  The large load water lever is 4\" down from the top of the screw on the agitator.\nBecause of this low water level cloths don't move freely tough the soapy water, and do not get clean.\n\nSecond:  There is no spin between the wash and rinse cycles.\nCloths are left saturated with soapy water when the rinse water starts to fill the drum.\nWhich means that the rinse water will have a lot of soap in it during the rinse/soak cycle.\n\nThird:  On the large load setting, the rinse water level is half that of the wash water level.\nSome of the still soapy cloths are left sitting above the rinse water, and are never submerged during the rinse/ soak cycle.\n\nThe combination of the lack of a spin between wash and rinse cycles, and the low rinse water lever means that cloths build up soap residue over time.  This leaves the cloths dingy, and can contribute to skin allergies.\n\nForth:  During the rinse/ soak cycle the agitator starts while the water is still flowing in.  This means that the agitator is trying to move heavy wet cloths with very little water in the drum, this puts a heavy strain on the agitator drive mechanism.  This strain caused the agitator drive mechanism in my washer to fail after four months.\n\nI have has two contractor service calls thus far to replace the agitator drive mechanism, and load level switch (the water levels did not change).  I have a GE service tech coming out next week, I will update this review after that visit.  I do not think my washer is broken, I think the overall design is defective.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2058, "id": 99728, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 301, "len_tokens": 348, "text": "Things I like:\n\nAccuracy of the oven, food tastes better than my old stove\nConvection really speeds things up\npreheats fairly quickly\nthat the continuous grates on the range allow you to slide pans freely around\nthe fact the controls are angled upwards towards the user, and away from small children.\nOverall fit and finish of the unit is good quality\nLighting inside the oven is bright, there are two bulbs which is fantastic\nnice high end look for lower price\n\nThings I don't like:\nI will start with the most annoying:\nThere is a fan noise, not the convection fan, but rather a fan that stays on after everything is off, kitchen is shut down and quiet, and you can hear this awful hum noise from a fan that is used to cooled the electrical components. Keep this in mind if you have an open floor plan. It's not really loud, but loud enough that you can notice it once you know its there. Fan should have been quieter.\n\nThe oven is not as deep as a regular oven, and in turn the racks are shallower due to the convection fan. Not sure why the design has it protruding into the stove, it should have sat back even with the back wall of the stove. If you have a pan that 15 inches or greater deep it will not fit in either rack.\n\nInstallation can be tricky since it is dual fuel and you have o hide the gas line and large electrical box behind the range instead of just one or the other.\n\nOverall this range is a good value for the $$, you get alot of features for alot less than others in it's class. If you can tolerate some fairly minor engineering oversights it's a great range.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2059, "id": 456646, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 319, "len_tokens": 372, "text": "This Miele washer is the top of the line for front loaders. I can say this with authority because in the past 10 years I also have owned Asko and Bosch front loaders, which are the direct competitors. The Miele replaced the Asko which had a 9-year life ended by a controller board that could not be replaced when the company discontinued the part. This is not your Mom's washer. And the worst I can say about it is that the company does a mediocre job of explaining how to use it. But once you figure it out, there is no washer that can compare to this one on the basis of performance in my experience. Everything from cotton sheets to silk lingerie come out of the washer in perfect condition. I washed an old cashmere sweater (previously dry cleaned) on the woolens cycle and that came out looking like new. The specialty cycles for athletic clothes, woolens, lingerie, jeans and even waterproof items are unique because you can control exactly what you need  to wash any particular load. It's highly, highly adjustable on every setting which I feel is a huge advantage over all the other machines which have a limited menu of washing options which cannot be changed. In addition to superb performance, the washer is quiet, the interior is lighted so you can see everything that needs to be removed, and the spin cycle insures that clothes spend minimum time in the dryer. I can attribute the fine results I'm getting to premium soaps recommended for this machine but very little is used for each load. This washer, and especially in the stainless finish, is by far the most expensive choice. I am a highly critical buyer and user but having a solid basis of comparison to the others, there is no contest. For me, this Miele is solidly in the \"expensive but worth it\" category.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2060, "id": 129833, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 283, "len_tokens": 321, "text": "This was the first time we've ever installed a vent hood and while the directions were confusing at best - we got it done and the fan works great. The light is a little odd in being at the back but its still helpful and pretty bright.  I will probably replace the bulbs with non-blue ones when these burn out - assuming I can find them to fit. It runs quietly, I did wedge the carbon filter under the grease filter so that they didn't rattle around and that works well. I like the on/off feature that allows you to turn it off and it runs a few minutes more so it can finish up venting while you eat.  You can also just turn it off by hitting the off button twice. The three speeds seem enough - we haven't actually needed the highest one yet.\n\nThe flexible vent tube is provided and we bought an outside wall vent and that was all we needed for our kitchen's 8' ceiling.  It was a bit hard to make the tubing bend the corner to vent out the wall in such a short space but we got it done. We put extra bracing between the studs in the walls to support this fan - I don't think hanging it from the drywall is a good idea - its quite heavy, especially with the glass overhang attached.\n\nVery classy update to our kitchen for an affordable price and it works very well. We gets LOTS of compliments on it.  We've only had it installed for a week, so I will update if we ever run into problems. At this point, I would definitely buy this again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2061, "id": 128811, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 288, "len_tokens": 331, "text": "Update: Been using this for about a month now. There have been a few occasions where the dishes I put through weren't cleaned all the way but they were really, really dried so I wasn't surprised. I use tablets for regular or heavy, fully loaded cycles and use gel for lighter loads. I also like to put a drainer stop in my sink to soak tough dishes in the used water that drains from the dishwasher itself. If you do this make sure your sink can hold the dishes and all the water. But it is corrosive water coming from the dishwasher so it's great when you've got a ton of dishes to do.\n\nIm a busy guy with a small budget that wouldnt allow for a full dishwasher, nor do I have time or the desire to spend a day fussing over installing a full dishwasher. This compact dishwasher is the perfect size for my roommate and I. You plug it into the wall, then connect it to the faucet and bam, you're ready to go. Little hint, the rubber washer inside the quick connect piece comes out so it can fit male or female faucet styles. I ran the first load of dishes (that had been sitting with dried food for at least a day) with a really strong all in one detergent tablet and they came out like new!! The one I bought was a refurbished model but it works like new so I imagine a new one works just as well.\n\nBottom line is easy installation, high performance, awesome time saver. Costs about $0.75 per load with water, power, and a premium detergent tablet. Ill pay $0.75 for a machine to do my dishes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2062, "id": 455136, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 246, "len_tokens": 303, "text": "This is a VERY nice unit!  I purchased the Cuisinart before this one, but sent it back (due to loud annoying fan noise) and bought this one.  It has a lot of great features that the Cuisinart did not and, in my opinion, looks nicer.\n\nFirst, its very quiet compared to the Cuisinart.  It has a fan that cycles off and on every 2-3 minutes, but it does not make as much noise as my refrigerator.  It also has screw-in feet that can be used to level it.  Not a big deal unless your counters are not quite level like mine.\n\nThe fan section on the rear has angled, recessed panels on its sides, which is where the air intake is.  This is nice because you can actually put it right up against another appliance or wall on the side and not block the air intake (even though the manual says not to).  It also has a little bracket you screw onto the rear that keeps you from putting it too close to a wall in the bacik.\n\nIt has a nice LED light on the interior that is much brighter than the Cuisinart light.  The only negative I can say about it is that when the power goes out and comes back on, this cooler does not.  You have to hit the power button to start it up.\n\nFor about the same price as the Cuisinart, this is a much better unit.  Buy it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2063, "id": 149770, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 262, "len_tokens": 311, "text": "Like many people, I purchased a front-loading washing machine that was destined to sit in a mudroom, on top of good old fashion joist and plywood flooring.  This seems to be a generic problem for front-loading machines, as they forcibly move the clothes and water around in a circular motion that causes a 'waving' action by the floor underneath - resulting in a washer that at best rocks and rattles loudly as it washes, and at worse literally begins to crawl and walk along the floor.  I've tried leveling the washer myself and even finally hired a professional to adjust and level the machine, all to no avail.  In desperation I purchased these anti-walk feet (the red packaging, not the green ones) and put them under all four feet of my washing machine.  Technically, I guess I put them under the four feet of my pedestal; in case anyone else is in the same situation as I am, I should mention I bought the optional pedestal for my washing machine (Whirlpool Duet).  This was the first weekend we've done wash since putting the feet in place, and it has made a major different.  The washing machine itself has not budged from where it started, and while the rocking and vibrations can still be felt and heard in the next room, it is much MUCH better than it was.  Hopefully they will continue to perform like this in the coming weeks and months, but even though these suckers are fairly expensive I think they were well worth the price in my situation.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2064, "id": 554983, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 349, "len_tokens": 388, "text": "I would like to share my families experience in buying Samsung appliances. Let me start by saying that we spent over 9000 dollars on brand new appliances just over a year ago. My wife loved the look of the Samsung black stainless steel so we bought an entire house full of appliances. Refrigerator, range, dishwasher, microwave, washer and dryer. Every single one of them has failed in that year, some on multiple occasions. Our microwave which most appliance repair guys will tell you are pretty universally reliable broke within the first month. The gas range needed repaired on three separate occasions, the dishwasher has been repaired twice and works intermittently now, the dryer squeals like a pig going to slaughter and the refrigerator stopped working while we were on vacation this past May. We have now been without a refrigerator for just shy of two months. It took Samsung over a month to send out a technician to look at it and another two weeks to get parts. After the repair the technician informed us that the unit was not repairable and a replacement was needed. Bear in mind we bought the appliances in May of 2017, the refrigerator failed in May of 2018 and now in July after telling us it is not repairable and they are sending a replacement unit I get an email apologizing for the inconvenience but that they will not replace the unit nor fix the dryer. We had never had new appliances and a year ago we were excited that now we had a houseful of beautiful new shiny appliances. Some of these appliances are nearly top of the line Samsung models and all of them have failed or no longer function. Do yourself and your family a favor and do not purchase Samsung products or atleast do not purchase their appliances. I have never made such a large purchase and been as disappointed as I have with Samsung. They have been horrible in every facet from quality to service. Do not make the same mistake we did. Samsung is a horrible company.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2065, "id": 479844, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 269, "len_tokens": 332, "text": "I just had to order another one of these- the third so far in as many years.  I actually got 2 this time because I now know that I can plan on it cracking and breaking (on the top, where it slides into the grooves below the bottom shelf of the frig).  And indeed, it did- this time only a little more than a week after we got them.\nTypically, the cheap, fragile plastic will crack, and you can still wiggle it and baby it for a while and still open and close the drawer until eventually it breaks enough that you can't open and close the drawer any more.  We have been very frustrated with the quality.  There are only 2 of us (55+ adults), so there are no kids in and out of the frig constantly.  We aren't manhandling the drawers!  And of course, we have to replace them with the GE drawers that will fit our frig.\nWe have an older house, and were limited as to the size of refrigerator that we could fit into the existing space without major cabinet renovations.  I wanted the type with the bottom freezer drawer, as I am short and it was hard to reach into the back of the freezer on my old frig.  We really regret the purchase; we went from an 18 cu. ft. frig to a 21 cu. ft. frig, but have much less freezer space!  And the materials are really inferior.  These drawers aren't the only problem...\nBut we're stuck replacing the drawers regularly as long as we own the frig.\nNot happy.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2066, "id": 72376, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 284, "len_tokens": 333, "text": "These worked well for creating an unobstructed path, as before my semi rigid ducting had to snake around and lint would build up. With 2 of these and some non expanded semi rigid ducting, clothes dry nearly twice as fast.\n\nThese are a bit better than the super low profile elbows as they do not reduce pressure as much.. and better than the larger stove pipe elbows that take up a lot of room.\n\nThe connectors fasten easily with other ducting that has this type of fastener/snap connectors. It is not hard to find semi rigid tubing that has male and female connectors already. Using stuff without the ends works, but not as well, as the connection is not as secure, and both ends connecting to it have to be male. It is best to install duct work so that the air flow has low resistance. The female end goes over the male dryer exhaust, and again, each section continues this pattern to the wall, which should be male ducting going into a female exhaust vent at the wall. If it does not fit, you can take some pliers and bend the ribbing inward a bit to make it fit.\n\nI had some issues with the elbow falling off the dryer side. Foil tape did not help since the dryer is tapered/ribbed male, and the clamped female elbow slowly slides down. A simple fix was to bend the dryer's male vent in 4 spots with pliers so that the female end of the elbow would stay on well once the tension ring was fastened. I then taped over the seam with aluminum tape. Be sure not to use screws, as they will catch lint.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2067, "id": 553726, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 277, "len_tokens": 307, "text": "This is a great set of five drawstring mesh laundry bags, the bags are rather big and can hold lots of items. There are three larger bags, one medium size and one smaller. The larger bags can hold lots of clothes including jeans etc. The larger bags there are two that has larger mesh in the bag, and one that has fine mesh if you are washing something more delicate. The medium and small sized bags are the fine mesh. The bags can be used to wash delicate clothes in the washing machine, or use to store dirty laundry in. These bags are also great to use when traveling, and I want to separate the dirty clothes from the clean clothes. Since the bags are of mesh, I can still easily fit them in my suit case even if filled with dirty laundry. I think it is also going to really help with my teenage sons. They are boy scouts and when they go away on camp-outs, they have a real bad habit of just throwing everything dirty into their bagpack without sorting it first. Now I will tell them to use these. The fact that the bags are drawstring enclosure with a plastic locking piece. It does not take long at all to put in and there is no excuse to mix clean clothes with dirty anymore. When not in use they fold up to fairly small and do not take up much space. Overall very pleased with this product. I was glad to have the chance to try these drawstring laundry wash bags for free! In exchange, I am giving my honest and unbiased review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2068, "id": 332983, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 278, "len_tokens": 317, "text": "Bought this ice maker because my fridge didn't have one. I probably should have bought the IM115 because the IM116000 has a slightly different fill tube but does work. Install was easy and took about 30-45 min. Also, some poor reviews claim that it takes forever to make ice and I thought I was gonna have this problem as well because after I installed the Ice maker it only made 1 batch of cubes over an 6-7 hour period with nothing els in the freezer. I did some research and found that the amount of time it takes to make ice depends on the temp setting of the freezer compartment, how clean the evaporator coils are as well as the cooling coils and fan are, and also how often the door is opened/closed. My problem was that my temp was not set cold enough in the freeze. After turning the temp control to the coldest setting it now only takes about 1-2 hours to make one batch of ice with nothing els in the freezer and slightly less time with more frozen items in the freezer. Like I said this was my problem and solution, not sure if the one that had the same issue checked everything mentioned above. Another note, not many people know but you can adjust the size of the ice cubes if they are too small or coming out froze together/solid cube. Take the front cover off the ice maker and there is a set screw that adjusts the amount of time the valve lets water into the ice maker. Careful, a little adjustment can go a long way depending on your water pressure.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2069, "id": 292235, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 349, "text": "This Aqua Fresh WF700 is a direct replacement for the LG LT700P, and in my case, a Sears/Kenmore 9690.  It is labeled \"Green Series\", stating that the charcoal is derived from coconut shells (renewable).  I have no problem with that.\n\nThis filter is priced at a fraction of the original equipment offerings . . . but doesn't do as much . . . but that might be ok depending on what your needs and wants are.\n\nThis Aqua Fresh filter claims to meet ANS/NSF standard 42, which concerns reduction of choline, taste, and odors.  It does not remove fluoride (which may be ok with you).  However, it may also not remove undesirables like heavy metals or chemical contaminants, which the higher rated ANS/NSF standard 53 filters (the original equipment stuff) will filter out.\n\nVarious observations:  Comes with brief instructions, a 30 warranty sheet,  and a FAQ sheet.  Among the information provided is the claim that the O-rings used are pre-lubricated and may be snug compared to originals (claiming enhanced performance).  Mine seemed to fit just fine.  Comes in sealed shrink wrap to insure integrity.  Manufactured by Spaceflex international LLC.  Nowhere on the box or the filter does it state where the filter was manufactured . . . draw your own conclusions.\n\nIn closing, whether this filter is right for you will depend on the quality of your water source (for instance, are heavy metals an issue?), whether you want to leave in helpful minerals and additives (such as fluoride, which not all people consider helpful but rather a hazard), and of course, price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2070, "id": 222574, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 261, "len_tokens": 348, "text": "It's easy to criticize, but often much more challenging to praise an item.  These little beauties do exactly what they're supposed to do - first time, every time!\n\nUntil we discovered these, both Madame Breva and I suffered from dry, scaling skin that would pile up in drifts in the hallway each winter until it looked like we'd had a huge indoor blizzard.  We were so plagued by static that we were unable to touch anything without first grounding ourselves on the lightning rods we had placed in every room (total cost of installation $30,000 plus tax!), and our toenails had grown to over six inches in length because we couldn't bend over to cut them without risking a life-threatening nasal hemorrhage due to dessicated mucous membranes.  The uber-parched state of Madame B's nether parts was ghastly!\n\nFinally, on what must have been our tenth visit from the fire departmentt in two years due to recurrent conflagrations caused by the friction of our feet across the bone-dry floorboards, a veteran fireman asked us why we didn't put evaporator pads into our whole-house humidifier.  Humidifier? we asked.  Basement?  we asked.  The kindly fireman led us down to the mysterious region under the stairs, showed us the contraption he had referred to, and the rest is history.\n\nNow Madame B and I are plump with hydration.  The hygrometer reads a balmy 90% humidity and we are dewy with joy.  We look upon a new world through the streaming windows, a world full of possibilities.  Thank you, friendly fireman, and thank you, Ecobee!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2071, "id": 218862, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 261, "len_tokens": 319, "text": "I am, so far, very happy with this product.  The design is sleek, elegant and well made.  It is appx. 2 1/2 feet tall by 13\" across so it is not too large and is not too small, either.  It's kind of like the baby bear's bed (if you know what I mean).  The blue lighting inside is a cool effect and really does look  nice. The only construction I had to do was install the metal handle on the unit, which was easy (only two screws with a screw driver).  The packaging was excellent so absolutely no complaints there.  We have several magnums of fine wine and, by taking out one of the shelves, I was only able to fit one inside the shelf -- fit at an angle -- so the unit is definitely not made for magnums.  If you like Caymus Special Select as I do, and know the bottle is slightly taller than most bottles of wine, be rest assured, it will fit.  Again, overall very pleased and would recommend this product.  I have not checked the temperature inside for accuracy as some have, I guess I'm not that much of a stickler -- if the wine tastes great, that's all that matters to me!  I only have red wine inside and have it set at 55 degrees (which is what I saw on line was the recommended temperature).  Now I guess I have to cook an excellent meal so I can drink my  excellent wine obtained from my excellent unit!  Life is good.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2072, "id": 180320, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 259, "len_tokens": 300, "text": "I recommend researching your existing washing machine more thoroughly than I did. Because my top loader was old, and did not say HE on it; I figured that it was not a high efficiency washer. When I hooked this model up, the bubbles were very mild and I could not smell any ozone. I later found out that I did in fact have a HE washer. So I gave it to a friend for Christmas who had a regular washer. It worked perfectly! I later ordered the proper HE model and love it;  I will review that separately. He has a slew of \"healthy alternative\" products and had never heard of anything like this, although he had been off main stream detergent for years (unlike me); he is very happy and thanks me regularly for it.\n\nCleans clothes very well, gives 2nd rinse more cleaning ability (as ozone is used an additional time), removes all odors and performs the same way my detergent did. Still need some stain remover from time to time, or some really good natural soap for soiled loads.\n\nCompany is very responsive, I was able to get on the phone with an engineer to ask questions before I bought it. Contacting tech support later was just as easy.\n\nIt is easy to install, I did wind up getting metal fasteners instead of the plastic ones they include; but this thing is not very heavy and doesn't really need anything more than plastic fasteners.\n\nI really like to see products like this, keep em coming!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2073, "id": 24711, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 282, "len_tokens": 335, "text": "I purchased a 2-pack of the GE MWF filters.  I did receive what appear to be genuine GE MWF filters, however, neither have worked properly.  The first triggered the orange/red \"replacement\" light on my fridge within 5 days of installing it.  The filters are supposed to last around 6 months so I reset my light several times and it kept coming back on as long as that filter was in place (and it didn't with the bypass in).  I replaced that first filter with the second from the 2-pack, hoping the first was simply defective.  It's been a few days shy of a month and the water, which tasted great for about ten days started tasting terrible after that.\nI made pasta with the water and it tasted like it'd been cooked in a swimming pool (chlorine).\n\nI also use two Pur brand water containers and even when the filters are approaching the end of their life, I cannot taste chlorine in the Pur water (even if I can smell it coming out of the tap!).\n\nI'm not sure what is up with these filters but I can't imagine there isn't something wrong with them.  GE says it must be my fridge or the light, which I doubt as it's less than two years old and prior to this was hooked up to an R/O system and at that point my fridge was not contaminating the water!  At over $30 each I certainly do not want to keep changing these out every 10-20 days.  I've considered buying more but I think I'll pay the little bit extra and get them straight from GE or a hardware store next time.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2074, "id": 87202, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2075, "id": 219026, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 284, "len_tokens": 346, "text": "Alright my wine friends. There is good and bad here, but overall, I am glad I got these ... 2 of them. These units look very nice and as you see on the picture, I got 2 of them in the living room.\n\nNoise; To me they are very quite and I am surprised to hear that some folks feel that they are loud.\n\nStorage; I am able to store both Bordeaux bottles as well as Pinot, just have to shove them in a bit, so forget about being able to nicely slide shelves out in that situation. I personally don't care.\n\nTemperature; Top 3-4 shelves will go to no lower than 57-59 degrees and bottom 3 shelves will be at 52-54. I don't mind. better than having wine on my kitchen rack. As long as you don't cellar your wine for 10-20 years, you're OK. Humidity is very stable at around 40-50%.\n\nMy only beef is with the lights. They look great when they are new but run them all the time for 1 month and you'll notice them fading away. I already had to request new lights for the left unit to exchange (very easy to do) and notice how left one is more lit that the right one. So, either change your lights every 2 months or turn them on for when you have guests over.\n\nIn my opinion this unit is very good looking and does exactly what I needed. If you need something that looks nice, allows you to always have wine at ready to drink temperature and you're not planning to store bottles there for 15+ years, this unit is great. Just wish their lights would last longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2076, "id": 348181, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 290, "len_tokens": 336, "text": "This ice machine is exactly what you would expect it to be. It makes ice quickly and stores it in a cooler-like area on its front. It doesn't really hold very much ice, but since I use ice pretty quickly, this was never a problem for me. The ice that it makes tends to be very soft and airy, which as a person who likes to chew on ice, is perfect. It's almost as good as the sonic ice. It has 3 settings for ice size, turn-on and shut-off time settings, and autoshutoff when water is low. The feature list is actually pretty nice.\n\nMy only gripe about this ice machine is that it is not very intuitive to use. The manual is horrible at explaining and the buttons don't really make much sense. It's kind of hard to tell when the machine is on, but is low on water and therefore it isn't making ice, and will automatically turn on once enough of the ice stored melts to produce enough water to make ice once again, or if the machine is actually off. This is important because the auto-shutoff alert is very obnoxious. Because this machine is stored in my room, when I don't turn it off completely before going to bed, it always ends up waking me up in the middle of the night because of the loud beeping noise it produces when it automatically shuts off. This is easily preventable by just an indication light to show if it is on or not.\n\nOther than that one complaint, this ice maker does its job. I am very satisfied with my purchase. I purchased this product at a discounted price in exchange for my fair and honest review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2077, "id": 433034, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 294, "len_tokens": 382, "text": "Shipping was fast....box is big and was in perfect shape.  This was larger than I thought it would be so the bathroom placement got ruled out.  ITS NOT LIGHT 46 POUNDS wheels would have been nice for people that are disabled...but you can slide it on flooring.....SO IN MY KITCHEN IT IS..... The water intake hose is long enough....but will not fit the facet..however I can hand fikk it becaus my kitchen faucet pulls out from the base so I just use that to fill the tub  YOU DECIDE HOW MUCH WATER TO ADD BASED ON LOAD SIZE make sure you have enough or you will strain the washer.  I do one load as a wash and 1 load of the same to rinse then wring out excess water then put it in the spin dryer.\n\nHave done 7 loads Everything works great but I see the need for improvement in some areas.....THE DRAIN HOSE COULD BE LONGER....it is shorter than the intake hose and it will Not stay in the sink unless you hold it..heck with that I put it under my dish drainer with a wash cloth around it so it won't get cut...the hose is cheap.  THE INSTRUCTIONS STINK...needs more detail and larger print.  THE CONTROLS on the machine don't say what they are and there needs to be more definition on the dial for your time selection.... I FIXED THAT WITH A SHARPIE LOL...\n\nDISPITE...some short comings I LOVE THIS THING...it reminds me of a little tykes toy box...the lids are a pretty deep blue....have patiences getting the packing wrap off them...no they are not glued on...best 135 dollars Ive ever spent qaulity and a very stronge pump cant be beat...dispite a couple of short comings that canbe lived with.....", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2078, "id": 87818, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2079, "id": 502930, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 292, "len_tokens": 347, "text": "It has only been a short while, but I love this washing machine. It uses fewer resources (water and soap) and my clothes are cleaner.\n\nI have read the critics of this machine. I want to respond to some of the complaints. First, it IS louder than my traditional washer. This is not a big deal to me.  Is it really a big deal? Next, each load may take longer. What is your rush?\nI may get flamed for this, but my guess is that the folks that have an issue with this dryer are not following the directions and/or are clinging to lessons that were true with earlier washing machine technology. In many cases, they return perfectly good machines. This drives up the cost of all of us. I would like to see folks study the manual and call for help before demanding the retailer take back a perfectly good product.\n\nSome people claim it leaves soapy residue. My guess is that they were using up their non-HE soap. In general, HE likes liquid detergent. Powders, which have traditionally been more effective, struggle to dissolve properly in this environment. Try skipping all the powders and see if you are happy. (Sorry Oxi Clean). Also, it is important to use LESS soap. This is hard for some of us that were brought up on MORE soap=CLEANER clothes. This was true. It is not true with HE washing machines.\n\nOther people complain that their clothes were still wet after the spin dry.  My guess is that they used the wrong cycle. I have not seen any evidence of this problem, although it was mentioned by reviewers on other boards.\n\nAll in, this washing machine is a great, entry level HE washing machine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2080, "id": 87582, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2081, "id": 42285, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 260, "len_tokens": 330, "text": "I have to admit, I was skeptical.  I mean, the idea of a wireless garbage disposal is an obvious elevation of our human existence, but is it worth the cost? Well, now I can reply with a resounding yes. I ordered my Joneca MSS-50 Mr. Scrappy Disposer Wireless Control Switch, or JMMSDWCS as I like to call it, and received it in a timely 3 months.  Within days, I had figured out how to open the packaging and was the happy holder of a JMMSDWCS.  Later, I learned that I could use this device to control my garbage disposal, and boy howdy, I was in for a treat.\n\nI plugged in my garbage disposal and played with the switch until 4am. Off, on, off, on, sometimes, on on just to switch it up. I carry my switch with me wherever i go.  Sometimes, I walk into other people's houses and flip the switch just to see if they have a JMMSDWCS too.  And when I hear that familiar grind and roar and the excited rush of feet to see what's going on with their sink, I smile and think how happy they must be too.\n\nI cannot tell you how many times I have been laying in bed about to go to sleep when i remember i forgot to disposal my garbage. Click click, and there it grinds.  Man, what a relief!\n\nMr. Scrappy, you have provided me countless hours of entertainment and enjoyment, and I'm gonna tell your Uncle Scooby that you have really made a name for yourself.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2082, "id": 331901, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 324, "len_tokens": 359, "text": "I received the new valve on time and the price was great....less than half the price Sears wanted. Was a little skeptical when I ordered it as all of my water connections are screw on. I took out the old valve assembly and was able to separate the old valve from the water inlet bracket by removing two screws that hold on the solenoids and then three screws that secure the valve to the bracket. Make sure you make note as to which wiring harness goes with which valve. My ice maker wiring had a white plug on it and my door had a blue plug on it. I then reconnected the water line and the line that goes out to the filter and installed the bracket a little lower than it was originally by using one of the machined holes. I had to cut the line that returns from the filter (this is the water line that feeds the valve) because it had a beveled edge and pushed in the opening until it clicked. Next all I did  with the lines that feed the ice maker and door was slide the plastic nut up the line and pushed them in until they clicked. Keep in mind that the water line for the door is larger than the one for the ice maker so you can't mix them up. I then connected the wiring to each solenoid and secured the valve with one screw. After checking for leaks (I had none) I tested the water in the door and had great flow. Now the ice maker had to cycle a couple of times but started making ice again. This valve is probably a replacement for hundreds of Kenmore and Whirlpool refrigerators so everyone may be dealing with something a little different than I did. Yes, I had to modify things a bit but I had the new valve installed in less than 15 minutes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2083, "id": 484402, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 263, "len_tokens": 314, "text": "Excellent design of 2 drawers.  You don't have to ever have dirty dishes in the sink if you keep one emptied.  We bought or first unit at our old house in 2004 and absolutely loved it then in 2009 we built a house but the builder only offered a Kitchenaid drawer dishwasher and it was horrible, the dishes were always dirty and also wet and smelly so we had it removed (beware don't buy the Kitchenaid model)  We bought the previous model Fisher and Paykel but after only a few years the rinse aids failed and the handles you use to pull the drawer open started cracking (the previous model at our old home had better handles).  BUT after numerous service calls and a f4 code that would keep coming back, Fisher and Paykel gave us a brand new dishwasher for no charge including the removal and installation.  At first their support isn't the best but if you are assertive, patient and kind (kindness always goes a long way) they will take care of you.  And this new design has a stainless steel section that is built unto the handle giving it the support it seems to need.  It comes with a 3 year warranty but for only $129 we extended the warranty to 5 years.  I advise you extend the warranty as this unit will need some repairs but you get, we feel, the best designed dishwasher there is and it washes absolutely excellent every time.  There are never any dirty dishes ever!!  We are lifetime customers of Fisher and Paykel!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2084, "id": 149004, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 238, "len_tokens": 317, "text": "I moved into a foreclosure, and immediately overhauled the kitchen. After tearing down a wall and building a breakfast bar, I wanted to have a stainless steel island hood installed.  I researched online extensively, and found that this hood was the best bang for the buck. There are similar hoods by other manufacturers that cost $700-800 more. Yes, you can buy 3 of this type v/s one of the other.  The specs are the same on most of the look-a-likes (i.e.  3 speed,304 stainless steel, etc)....but this one has a max 900 cfm blower.  That's greater than many of the more expensive types. Since it comes with a year warranty, I felt just as protected as buying any other.  One word of advice if you do the self-install.  Make sure you have at least one, but 2 helpers will make the mounting easier.\n  Well, it's been at least 6 months since the install, and the only problem is that I mounted it a little lower than I'd like.  Need a 2-3\" adjustment. I'll go back and make an adjustment one day, but it's working for now. All is well :-)\n\n3/8/13 UPDATE .......I was here answering someone's question about the hood, so I figured I may as well give an update. Great news so far....nothing to report other than, it works like the day it was mounted, and everyone gives wonderful compliments when they see it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2085, "id": 108343, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 245, "len_tokens": 305, "text": "I chose this refrigerator because it seemed to have good fit and finish, and looked very nice.\n\nHowever, the first one I got made one batch of ice... that's 8 cubes... and then quit working.  Sears sent someone out to fix it, and it they decided it was broken, they needed a new one.  Well over a month later (with no ice maker), the new one comes in, the guy comes out and installs it.  It did not work--not even one batch of ice.  So I called Sears and asked them to just take this one back and send us a whole new refrigerator.  Several weeks later, we finally have a working refrigerator!  Yay!\n\nAlmost two months later (that's right now), the ice maker quit working.\n\nI don't understand how the ice maker could be that bad.  I mean, did nobody ever test this after they designed it?  It boggles my mind that the design is that awful.  I don't understand how the repairs to the ice makers isn't bankrupting Bosch.  I would have thought they would have quit selling this model as soon as the reports of the failures started rolling in, unless I just have exceedingly bad luck.  But I don't think so--I notice someone else's review also says that their ice maker quit.\n\nAnyway, I strongly recommend avoiding this model, and doing your research if you want a different Bosch model, to make sure it doesn't use the same broken ice maker.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2086, "id": 456406, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 326, "len_tokens": 397, "text": "This is the correct rack for our model Kenmore 110.75132412 aka 75132  7.0 cu ft dryer.\nOur dryer's drum is typical of many Kenmore & Whirlpool dryers. It has the dimples in rear of drum spaced 4.5\" apart. The rack fits *many* dryers because that drum is widely used. The photo in the review by Luis Snchez is a helpful guide. Although his dryer is a different model than ours, since our drums match, the rack fits.\n(I suggest seller remove a statement from its listing: \"Dryers with an \"E\" after the numbers in the model number\" is not accurate.\nThe model number does not necessarily have an \"E\" to be compatible with this factory dryer rack.)\nIf you are unsure of your model dryer's compatibility with this rack, simply write the seller first & provide your complete model number taken from the label in front of the drum wall after opening the door. The seller responded quickly to us to confirm our dryer's fit was correct, so we ordered with confidence.\n\nThe rack fits & works fine for shoes, sweaters, hats, etc.! The two spring-loaded tabs that fit in the rear dimples are the most fragile component, but they won't break easily unless you are rough handling & storing the rack, or if you drop it. Because of comments here stating the rack easily breaks, as soon as we received ours I purposefully tested the spring tabs by firmly bending them. I was happy to see they were sturdy, and I would have had to use a far greater amount of force to damage them.\n\nIf these spring tabs on your rack broke prematurely despite your handling with reasonable care, I strongly suggest you were shipped a rack with a manufacturing defect. That is never your fault, and you could have reported this to the vendor for a replacement. You might still be able to request an exchange if it has not been too long.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2087, "id": 29831, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 243, "len_tokens": 335, "text": "Got this dishwasher to satisfy the wife until we can get a full sized appliance.  I thought the Danby would be good due to it's small size and water saving features.\n\nPurchased in September, 2007, and everyhting went fine for about 8 months - It was a bit small for normal sized plates, but seemed to do the job oneverything else.  Then, for some reason, the dishwasher got pissed and started barfing all over the place, sort of like my cats.  Apparently, the water shut-off valve broke, and it kept filling with water.  And filling, and filling, and filling...water all over the counter, cabinets, and floor.\n\nI finally found someone to fix it after looking for an \"authorized\" repair center for a week.  At least I thought I did.  He had it in his shop for two months.  Finally got it back, and now it doesn't work at all.  It's now a big paper weight, sitting on my counter.  Does Danby care?  Nope.  Told me to return it where I got it.  Guess what?  Amazon won't take it.  I don't blame them.\n\nNow I'm out $200 for and applicance that worked for 8 months.  If this joke of a company won't honor their warranty period, this junk is going to become a rifle target.\n\nUPDATE:  Different Danby Rep at customer service is going to ship me a new machine!!  WOW!  The first ne was junk...let's see what the replacement machine does.  Thanks, Danby!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2088, "id": 129734, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 295, "len_tokens": 345, "text": "This is a very impressive purchase that we are very happy with. Ventless installation was a breeze once you determine the height you want it at. It looks really beautiful. Reasonably quiet operation. Low level is perfect, medium and high are still acceptable, given the job they are performing. Prior to this there was a microwave/fan over the cooktop and we didn't use the fan because it was so loud. Then the microwave died too. Very happy with the noise level and efficacy of this fan. Easy to keep clean with stainless wipes and glass cleaner. I don't like how the extension piece hangs from the bracket because it keeps it from resting flush against the wall behind the lower chimney piece. There should also be a way to attach the two pieces of chimney together so they look more like one.\n\nHave not yet shopped for replacement filters. Fingers crossed they are easy to find. Surprised no one has posted what the big box stores carry that are compatible.\n\nUpdate:\nAfter 2 months, started having a very loud rattling sound when the fan was on. Took off the chimney and glass and found a thin piece of the round ducting had come loose and fell into the damper. The ducting is just cut to a size and it is round so take care that there are no small pieces from bad cuts (either yours or the manufacturers) that could snap off in the \"wind\" from the fan and end up causing a problem. Very happy that there wasn't a problem with the unit.\n\nOverall, I would recommend and would buy again (hopefully will not need to). Beware, because I bought it at $300 and now it is $200 only a few months later!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2089, "id": 482998, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 319, "len_tokens": 372, "text": "I bought this oven primarily because it has high BTU burners and the griddle burners are to the side instead of the middle like most ranges. The burners work well. The power boil is very hot. The stainless steel top surface looks cleaner than the black surface.\n\nThe reason for the two stars is that the oven control keypad is defective upon arrival.\n\nFor example, the Clear/Off button is how you turn the oven off. But this button doesn't always work. We have tried various pressure and areas directly on the button, around the button, etc and it would not work. Imagine the panic we were in when we were broiling something and could not turn off the oven!\n\nA tech came out and determined that the control was defect and we are waiting for an exchange of a new oven.\n\nIn the meanwhile, we have are stuck with this oven for three weeks until the replacement oven arrives.\n\nLuckily if you use the timer cook function, it will turn off the oven when the timer expires. But you can only use the timer in bake mode. In broil mode, you have to switch to bake mode, then you can set the cook timer for 1 minute and it will turn off after 1 minute.\n\nIt seems like entire bottom row of keypad is flaky ... it takes several tries to get the bottom numbers to work.\n\nThis is a very expensive oven, so this kind of quality control issue is unacceptable.\nI've had $100 microwave ovens with similar touchpad controls that have lasted 20 years.\nHopefully this is just a rare lemon out of many ... we'll see.\n\nIf the replacement oven has similar issues, I will have to choose a different brand.\nAt this time, I cannot recommend this oven.\n\nIf it wasn't for the bad controls, I would have been happy to give this 5 stars.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2090, "id": 486511, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 240, "len_tokens": 306, "text": "Save yourself the hassle.  We purchased this dishwasher in 03/13 and it was installed in 04/13.  It had to be serviced the first time in 06/13 because the rinse pump went out.  It was serviced another time just a few months later.  Today, I called because the brand new rinse pump that was installed has, yet again, gone out and the service department said she would call her tech and have him contact us, but that we aren't under warranty.\n\nForget about that fact that we spent $3,815 on a DISHWASHER that is supposedly capable of running HUNDREDS of racks per day and we probably run 30 per day through it.  Forget that we've had to have repairs made TWICE in the first year and that we run the EXACT brands of soap and rinse aid that they recommend.  We're on our own now.  Because we bought a PILE of crap in March of 2013 that was only going to be good for as long as the warranty lasted.\n\nThe customer service rep had nothing to say when I asked her at what point is this unit considered to be a lemon and the company.\n\nDoes it wash dishes?  Heck yes it does, when it's operational.  For $3815.15 (what I paid) I shouldn't have even had to THINK about having problems in the first 3-5 years - longer when you consider our usage compared to the machine's specs/work capacity.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2091, "id": 110494, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 219, "len_tokens": 300, "text": "This was a \"direct replacement\" for my GE Triton GSD5200G00BB.  My model doesn't have a solenoid like most do, but instead has an auxiliary drain pump, so the \"direct replacement\" has one that just hangs off the edge.  If you DON'T have a solenoid originally, you'll need to move the black rubber cap that comes installed on the new part.  You'll know what I mean when you see it.\nThis part replaces GE (and apparently many other) dishwasher pumps for the last 30 years, or so say the directions.  It took me a little time to orient myself to the instruction sheet but after I did this slid right in and works beautifully.  I saved myself at least $350, and that's compared to buying a low/mid-level washer on sale.  If I get a year out of it I'll be happy.\nFor tools you'll need flat and phillips screwdrivers, plus a 5/16\" and 1/4\" nutdriver or socket for hose clamps that aren't also slotted.\nObviously you'll also need to diagnose the problem before springing for this part.  I highly recommend applianceblog.com which is a totally independent review on my part.  My problem was that my dishwasher wasn't draining.  There are numerous possible causes.  After eliminating EVERYTHING else I replaced the main pump and it did the job.\nThanks for reading.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2092, "id": 104988, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 256, "len_tokens": 304, "text": "My rental house has granite counters but the dishwasher is just kind of sitting there. I've dealt with the dishwasher falling forward for 3 years now, and finally I though to try and search out a solution. I was about to use some liquid nails and a thin wood strip when I came across these and figured for the price, they're worth a shot.\n\nI cleaned underneath with my usual granite cleaner (rubbing alcohol, water and a drop of dish soap) and excitedly applied the grabbers. I stuck them on and put a spring loaded clamp onto each for 5 minutes as instructed. Actually I probably left the clamps on for 15-20 minutes. After a few hours, however, I noticed they were starting to pull away a bit. Uh oh. I was concerned because the instructions mention a 3 hour cure time, and I was about there so if they were already cured I was in trouble. But, I clamped them up again, this time with two spring loaded clamps on each one (on either side of the screw). I left the clamps on overnight. That was a few days ago and as far as I can tell they aren't coming off anytime soon. If I remember I'll update this review in a few years and let everyone know...\n\nSo upshot: cheap, easy to install and work great. Just make sure you clean the area really well, and get some good pressure on them with clamps and leave the clamps on longer than they suggest.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2093, "id": 222423, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 262, "len_tokens": 314, "text": "As soon as I got my new washer I immediatly hooked it up and started using it. To put it to the test on how well it will clean clothes, I put 6 xxxl t-shirts, and a pair of sweat bottoms in the tub added detergent set the washer for 1/2 full and turned it on. During the wash cycle I opened the lid (the washer automatically stops) and took a clear glass and dipped it into the water to see just how dirty the water was getting. To my surprise the water was disgustingly dirty......I didn't mention that all the t-shirts and sweat pants had already been washed a few days earlier in my brothers washer!!! This little Midea 1.6 CF washer kicks ass!!! I am so happy this is the one I chose.\nThe only thing that I would consider a CON is the little wheels that are on the back of the unit. They are worthless, so I purchased a movable base with four casters to put the washer on and it rolls perfectly across the my carpeted floor. The other CON is the sink adaptor. It doesn't have a filter in it so it has to be removed everytime you want a glass of water. I went to ACE Hardware and spent under $5.00 on a new one with a filter. To accomodate my Midea I also purchased the Summit dryer and the Avanti washer/dryer mounting bracket. Everything is perfect. I am extremely happy with my little Midea and Summit dryer I would highly reccomend both of them.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2094, "id": 208936, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 343, "len_tokens": 391, "text": "After purchasing a new LG dryer, I ordered the LG side vent kit to reroute the vent out the left side of the dryer.  I previously read some of the reviews at Amazon and even confirmed with LG customer support that the part ordered was the correct kit (even though the LG owners manual lists a different part that is not available).  As a result, I knew this kit may not be a perfect fit.  Installing the kit is straight forward and I encourage the use of aluminum tape to secure all the joints as noted in the LG instructions.  As others have noted, the straight duct coming off the elbow is too short to exit the side of the dryer, but I resolved the issue by first mocking-up the assembly without the tape and temporarily installing the assembly.  I then positioned the duct that exits the dryer on the elbow at the location that would leave 1\" of pipe on the outside of the dryer, and then marked the spot on the elbow where the two ducts meet.  When I removed the assembly, I found the marked location was about half way where the duct pipe would seat onto the elbow.  The fit was so loose, I didn't want to trust the tape to hold it.  So, I reversed the duct pipe and found it fit onto the elbow at the marked location without any gaps at the seam.  Of course, that meant the \"wrong\" side of the duct would be exiting the side of the dryer.  To address that problem, I used pliers to straighten the preformed outer ridge on the pipe and found that the flex pipe fit it perfectly.  I then used aluminum tape to the secure the reversed duct pipe onto the elbow and finished the installation.\n\nThis is a lot of trouble to address a problem caused by LG in creating this kit (especially at the price they demand).  They should simply include a longer duct pipe to guarantee an adequate fit for their dryers.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2095, "id": 505960, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 298, "len_tokens": 348, "text": "All the other reviews are accurate. You are paying for one single screw. It's a very long screw. And it strips easily.\n\nThat said, it worked perfectly to replace the handle on our Frigidaire oven. The original handle was attached with a too-short screw that failed after just a few years of light use. When I ordered a replacement handle I was told that they no longer make the original screws (no wonder since those failed so easily). So this is what we ordered.\n\nIt was too long, which meant that we needed to use a Dremel tool to trim it down by about a half inch. But that meant that we were able to secure the handle well - it definitely shouldn't have the same problem as the original.\n\nIt appears to have been made for whatever specialty screwdrivers they have in the factory, because it wasn't really a Phillips head and wasn't a square, but was somewhere in between. My husband happened to have a small Phillips screwdriver on his pocket multi-tool that fit it, so that's what we used, very carefully, because it did start to strip very easily. It almost certainly would have stripped to useless in just a few turns with a larger Phillips screwdriver.\n\nIn short, if you have a way to trim it to size and can find a screwdriver that fits well, it works perfectly. But perhaps to be safe, order an extra just in case the first one strips or you accidentally cut one too short...\n\nWe spent a good half hour futzing around measuring, trimming, and testing out a few screwdrivers. Once we had all that done, replacing the handle took all of 10 minutes and I'm pretty confident it will last for many years to come.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2096, "id": 396502, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 264, "len_tokens": 312, "text": "We love this ice maker!  As a family who likes iced and hot coffee in the morning, this ensures that everyone gets a fresh choice and we can't say enough about this product!  It makes a batch of ice in minutes and will keep making it until it runs out of water (I think we get three batches).  Super easy to use - just plug 'er in, fill water to the fill line, hit a button and let it do it's thing.  The ice maker in our refrigerator isn't hooked up and that's fine with us - we don't like ice that sits out in the air so this little ice making bandit makes it and then we have ziplock bags of ice hardened (that aren't exposed to smells, etc) in our freezer at all times.  Unlike buying bagged ice, our ice is in bags that seal!  When guests are over, we simply run the ice maker for fresh ice while they're here.  The cubes are small and we like that too!\n\nThere is some noise to this - especially when the cubes are dropping.  It doesn't bother us at all because the noise lasts such a short time!  It takes up less counter top space than a bread maker!\n\nSure ice is cheap but we don't doubt that this wonderful little will pay for itself in no time because we put fresh ice in all of our cold drinks!  And bonus that we re-use our sealed ice storage bag aren't filling up landfills with the plastic bags from buying bag of ice!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2097, "id": 36146, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 269, "len_tokens": 303, "text": "Use the kit that comes with the Waste King disposal , not this \"time saving\" adaptor kit.  The product description should have noted that, \"This adaptor will put your new disposal's discharge line lower than that of the existing disposal; which may require additional plumbing work than what would be needed if you chose to use the standard kit that comes with your new Waste King disposal.\"  The product does allow you to use you old Insinkerator sink mount instead of the new sink adaptor kit that already comes with your new Waste King. However, the kit sets the Waste King discharge line lower than where it was in your old disposal. This change in elevation requires additional plumbing work that isn't needed if you would just use the kit that comes with the Waste King disposal. I installed this adaptor and then had to remove it because I didn't want to mess with running to the store to get extra parts to adjust the plumbing. I ended up using the kit that came with the Waste King. The kit that comes with the Waste King disposal is very easy to install and you can see the Waste King logo on it in the bottom of your sink. Why would you want to spend the money for a Waste King and keep the original Insinkerator logo that will remain in your sink if you use this adaptor? That's like buying fine wine and pouring it in the bottle of an old bottle of a $5 wine and serving it to your guests.  I am thankful for Amazon's no-hassle return policy.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2098, "id": 430578, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 290, "len_tokens": 343, "text": "When I held up this bathing suit for my 5 yo daughter to see when it arrived her immediate response was oh thank you Mommy, its pretty.  When we got ready for the pool she begged to wear it and pranced around, she said she felt like she was ready to go to dance class with the little skirt.  I purchased the size 128 which translates to US size 5-6.  It was a little big on her so room to grow but not so big that when she wore it in the water it caused her or I any concerns.  She has a lot of bathing suits and wears them ranging in size 4-6 depending on the brand so the fit was about as expected.  So far so good.\n\n-Package arrived on time: Yes the package was on time as promised by seller.\n\n-Box/Packaging Condition: The suit arrived in a little reusable zippered case and a simple drawstring backpack, both of which will come in handy.\n\n-Price of item:  This is priced a little more expensive than the bathing suits I typically by for my daughter but it has room to grow on her and she loves it so all and all a good buy.\n\n-Look of item: Just as described and pictured on amazon.\n\n-Recommend item: I would recommend this item to anyone who is looking for an adorable swim suit for their daughter that doesnt have some sort of Disney character on it, something adorable but less traditional.\n\n-Item Satisfaction: Overall very satisfied with this purchase.\n\nI received this product at a discounted price in exchange for my honest and unbiased review. If this review has helped you in any way, please click the YES button. Thank you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2099, "id": 551975, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 301, "len_tokens": 350, "text": "LG French Door Refrigerator is 1.5 years old and cooling system is intermittent, lost entire content of unit.  The ice in the ice machine melted while I was away and ruined my hardwood floor ($450 repair for floor). The local authorized service techs said they have had others LG refrigerators have the same problem.  Called LG and was able to schedule a technician to come out after 4 tries. I canceled before he came out because it was working again but since it was prior to the 24hr period they would not refund me.  The tech said it would be hard to figure out what is wrong if it working.  He suggested that he not come out and wait until or if it has problems again.  He said he thinks it is the compressor which is $250 + 125 service call to fix but no guarantee that is the problem.  Thank God the parts were under warranty. For a $2000 refrigerator I would of expected it to last more than 1.5 year and have no problems. My old 25 year old GE fridge is still working and never been serviced.  LG customer service center is not terribly helpful; called a number of times, each time got a different story, they were only able to follow the script and there was no way to escalate to a supervisor - very frustrating. I usually look at the reviews before I buy.  Did not this time but wish I had as I am not the only one to have this type of problem.  LG not only has problem with their phones catching on fire and the tops of the washing machine coming off but now it looks like there refrigerators are junk also.  Bottom line, will never buy an LG kitchen appliance again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2100, "id": 281146, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 265, "len_tokens": 300, "text": "I was surprised when I used the brush how much lint was in the vent. The brush does a good job of holding onto the lint and pushing the clogs through. Though you have to push a little harder, the rods are flexible enough to work through bends/curves in the duct.\n\nThe 12' kit was not enough to go from one side of the duct to the other (I wish that they sold a 6' extension rather than just another 12'), and you want to avoid coming up short and creating a clog. You might want to play it safe and just get the extension kit from the start. Or, if one end of the duct is higher than the other (my outside vent is above my head, while the inside of the dryer duct is ground level), start from the high end and push through to let the lint fall down the last bit of the duct.\n\nThe directions encourage you to tape the rods together before placing them in the duct. Though the rods easily twist into each other, the connection is not tight enough to prevent them from coming apart if you accidentally turn counter-clockwise, so the duck tape is necessary. The brush works very well, and if the rods were longer and held together without duck tape, I'd give five stars. Even with needing some duck tape and maybe needed to purchase the extension kit, this brush is much cheaper than having someone clean the dryer duct for you and much cheaper than other home versions available online and in stores.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2101, "id": 22, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 312, "len_tokens": 376, "text": "Author Alan Gregerman, ([...] a business consultant and adjunct professor at Georgetown University offers eight pages of additional resources at the end of his fascinating book, saying, \"..these books articles, and websites,,,have formed an essential part of the mix that became 'The Necessity of Strangers.' You might say that I started with a large pot and a simple idea, threw in some water, and a few stones, and then wandered around looking for ideas, insights, and perspectives from a world filled with strangers.\" As you can tell, he includes the authors of books, articles, and websites, as well as ordinary people he encounters in the course of performing the small and large duties of life, in his definition of stranger inspiration. His business audience (Jossey-Bass) is very familiar with the former. Coming out of MBA programs, they look for help from books and articles all the time. It is the latter source of fresh thinking that they may, apart from surveys and polls. ignore. He also points out the importance of the fact that in many interactions, the parties are strangers. Smart business people take this into consideration and make every effort to establish relevant common ground. This seems obvious, but it is a significantly different way of thinking about customer service, collaboration, personnel relations, technological change, innovation, and leadership. The book is well-written, well-organized, and peppered with interesting examples, but it mainly argues for a change in attitude, and if you are a bottom-line business type looking for a quick, ready-made prescription to solve your problems, you may be disappointed. There are no charts or graphs or results of studies. Instead the author offers a road map and directions to set you off on your own journey. If you accept his challenge, he will be the first of a legion of strangers who will transform the human landscape around you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2102, "id": 387527, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 279, "len_tokens": 319, "text": "This is a completely pointless product.  In all fairness I was expecting something different and should have done more research before purchasing but regardless I can't begin to imagine what possible value this product adds.\n\nFirst the unit came dirty and required a thorough cleaning before use.  I noticed a large discoloration on the plastic underneath where the lid closes.  It looked like a burn mark but wasn't in an area where it would come in contact with the water so I kept going.\n\nAfter cleaning and filling up the until with water I started making ice.  Even with the large cube selection in place the cubes that came out were very small.  Every 5-7 minutes or so about 8 very small ice cubes would fall into the cube tray.  Not enough ice to fill up a glass and wet enough that it would most certainly melt within minutes of pouring an liquid over it.  After about 2 hours of ice making the unit had used up almost all the water I added to the max fill line before starting and I had enough ice to fill up a regular sized cereal bowl.\n\nI wouldn't say the ice maker is loud but it is certainly not quiet.  The unit is also awkwardly large and heavy and takes up a lot of space on the counter.\n\nAs others have mentioned you're much better off just going out and buying a bag of ice.  For the amount of time, effort and money you'd spend using this product why not just drive up to the gas station and buy a large bag of ice for $3?\n\nI'll give this product an F-", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2103, "id": 186058, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 269, "len_tokens": 330, "text": "These little rubber feet are a pretty simple item, but they provided exactly what was needed for the grates on our KitchenAid 5-burner gas cooktop.  I installed that cooktop about 12 years back when we built our kitchen, and about two years ago some of the rubber feet on the three grills needed replacement.  We tried the easy route first by sticking little round felt pads on the legs, but the heat from the burners tended to melt the adhesive and that solution didn't work out very well.  I checked the internet for parts and could only find replacement grills for this cooktop, not replacement rubber feet.  So, I decided to try rubber feet intended for a different brand, fairly confident I could make them work with glue or potentially drilling out the holes in the legs if necessary.\n\nTurns out these feet fit a little snugly, but they work great and have a nice pad to sit on the stainless surface of the cooktop.  I cleaned out the twelve grate holes with a drill bit, picked up a small tube of black high temperature RTV gasket maker from Autozone, and set the feet into the holes.  The RTV is good up to 500F, so I'm thinking that should work pretty well.  If you do this, I'd recommend wearing disposable gloves like the Diamond Grip brand sold by Amazon to keep the RTV off your fingers.  Those are really handy gloves, by the way, and a box is very inexpensive.\n\nBottom line is these little feet are a great product and very cost-effective, and the seller delivered them promptly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2104, "id": 352252, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 326, "len_tokens": 381, "text": "I just got this little washer yesterday. Well not little, it was actually quite big, which was great because I thought it would hold a lot less clothing. Very light and easy to operate. I washed 4 loads right out the box and the spinner was amazing. It pretty much dried out my clothes. DO NOT expect this to heat dry your clothes. Its a spin dryer like the spin cycle on a regular washer. Noise is not bad, It does make some so don't expect it to be silent. Make sure the hose is up and on normal when you are filling it or it would spill out (Learned that the hard way.) Also the hose does not fit my sink. I did not have a problem with that because I just filled it with a bucket as in my opinion, it would take forever with the hose. I also wash in my bathtub because when draining, the hose needs to be leveled and is on the bottom. If anything, that would be the only issue I have with this washer. The hose should've been on top for easy draining. Little bit of soap goes a long way. I washed shirts, socks, undies, hand towels and wash cloths. Tonight I will try jeans and towels and see how that works. Clothes do get tangled so get a mesh bag to prevent it. Overall, This machine gets 5 stars. I wanted to get a Panda, since it seems to be the top of the line twin tub washer but I couldn't afford 200+shipping. I'm hoping this lasts a while. I will check in with another update soon via video so people can see how this beauty works! If you know what to expect using these, I suggest this. If you don't know much about these machines, please YouTube it before buying. Some people expect too much but this is EXACTLY what I expected and I'm satisfied.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2105, "id": 225011, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 289, "len_tokens": 341, "text": "I didn't look closely, and the heat rod is NOT a Calrod - it's a glass tube.  So, after I broke it and paid over $50 for a new one to be quick-shipped in (it's not available on Amazon), I carefully enlarged the curved end of this Heat Probe and shaped it to accurately fit over the NEW glass heating rod, and then installed it.  The screw included with the probe wasn't large enough to allow the probe to fit onto the heating rod in our freezer, but a longer screw VERY LIGHTLY tightened and with some Loctite added has held it in place so far.\n\nAlso - the included metal insert for the drain tube in the refrigerator or freezer was far too large to fit into ours, and despite the instructions saying to pull out the existing drain tube - it's part of the plastic liner in our model.  Fearing the drain area might overheat, I looked through the house and garage for a suitable piece of thin copper, brass, or aluminum tube to ensure that if the probe touched it, the heat would be spread out and no plastic would melt.  Bingo - a .30-'06 casing is the perfect diameter, though it took a while to shape the bottom end nicely to permit it to be inserted, and flare the top enough to ensure a good seal.  Once completed, I had a custom brass insert.\n\nNow that the probe is in place, it seems to work well.  Sadly, we'd already replaced this freezer before I found this part t solve the prior freeze-up frustrations that had made one too many puddles, so I only repaired the old freezer to either sell or move to the garage.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2106, "id": 100574, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 287, "len_tokens": 347, "text": "I have no idea how I happened to have obtained a counterfeit version of this product sometime in the past, but suffice it to say that it was worth it to replace that.  This is the brand name product, and it is definitely superior in many ways.  It does an excellent job of washing, and is great for handwashables.  However, it is not foolproof.  As mentioned by a previous reviewer, pet fur (and lint) will remain on the laundered items.  Also, items washed in the Wonder Wash will come out of it very wet, and can take a long time to dry unless you wring them out extremely well (and not all laundry wrings out effectively), or use a centrifugal dryer (a large salad spinner can help in a pinch, although it is nowhere near as fast or as effective).\n\nThere are a few things which could stand improving.  For some reason, the lid doesn't always go on tightly enough or lock, and can come loose or fall off as the barrel is being turned, which results in a mess; so check it carefully, and make the first turn slowly.  The suction cups on the base can be a hazard if you need to move this to drain it:  lifting it with your hands under the barrel, rather than holding the stand, works well.  Also, it can sometimes be easier to drain the barrel from the lid opening.\n\nThere is a version of the instructions which gives temperature guidelines.  If you're in the United States, keep in mind that these temperatures (at least on the version I have) are in celsius.  A laser thermometer, if you have one, makes it easy to measure the water temperature.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2107, "id": 61396, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 272, "len_tokens": 317, "text": "This is not a very good stove. The burners are way too big and most of the heat goes up the sides of the pot causing scorching. A full pot takes forever to heat up since most of the heat goes up and around the pot; even 10\" and 12\" pots.\nThe oven has an annoying fan that blows hot air through vents in the back. Forget trying to use the oven on a summer day; the kitchen heats up beyond what the A/C can keep up with. Don't try to bake bread. Most recipes for rustic bread require steam by throwing water in a hot pan on the bottom. However, the fan blows the steam out of the oven and into the kitchen.\nThe oven has a temperature indicator which is supposed to tell the oven temperature. It only does this while the oven is heating up. Once the oven reaches the set temperature, only the set temperature is indicated. If the door is opened and the oven cools, the indicator will still only register the set temperature. If the oven cools, the only way to know the temperature is by turning the oven off and then restarting. It will then show the actual temperature until the set temperature is again reached. If you want to lower the temperature, it will only show the new set tempearature.\nIt has a center burner and a griddle that fits over it. However, even on the highest setting, the griddle will not get hot enough to make pancakes.\nThe knobs are poorly made and break easily.\n\nPostives:\nEasy to clean and it looks nice.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2108, "id": 212444, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 213, "len_tokens": 314, "text": "Not an LG OEM part and has failed after a short 6 months after installing in an LG front loader washer. Don't be fooled into thinking this is an OEM part because it is not.  It's a cheap knockoff version of the original pump manufacture that is made overseas in a sub par manufacturing facility no doubt.\nBought this replacement pump back in August 2016 and it gave up in March 2017.  That's what I get for trying to save a few bucks and it only cost me more in the long run, or should I say 'short' run.  Replaced this unit with a genuine factory pump and that one only cost a few dollars more and purchased right here on Amazon.\n\nPhotos posted show the crack the white colored impeller suffered from the cheap construction the material is made from.  This is why the pump failed.  The impeller simply fell off and rendered the pump useless. Pump didn't even match up to the original mounting hole locations either but otherwise bolted right up.  Do yourself a favor when researching for a new pump and spend a few dollars more and get the OEM replacement pump.  They can be found here:&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/2003273-Genuine-LG-Factory-Original-Washer-Water-Drain-Pump/dp/B00NWRM2CC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">2003273 Genuine LG Factory Original Washer Water Drain Pump</a>", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2109, "id": 18670, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 180, "len_tokens": 375, "text": "We got the&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Honeywell-QuietCare-9-Gallon-Output-Console-Humidifier-with-Air-Washing-Technology-HCM-6009/dp/B000G0LDRI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Honeywell QuietCare 9-Gallon Output Console Humidifier with Air Washing Technology, HCM-6009</a>&nbsp;and are really happy with that choice. It's quiet...not hard to maintain...portable...has flexible settings to get the right humidity for the right duration...and easy to fill with water because of 2 tanks. Our cats seem to worship it as they sit in quiet adoration, drawn to the gentle water gurgling.\n\nAs I followed all the directions for cleaning including the vinegaring and bleaching, I thought maybe I could get the filter to last for more than the one year specified. But, ew, upon packing it up for the summer, I found black mold at the bottom of the filter. Out it goes. I ordered this replacement filter plus&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/ProTec-PC-1-Humidifier-Tank-Cleaning-Cartridge-Pack-of-2/dp/B000XPT0DK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">ProTec PC-1 Humidifier Tank Cleaning Cartridge (Pack of 2)</a>&nbsp;to guarantee clean and fresh humidity.\n\nNone in our family has problems with asthma or other breathing maladies but it's nice to know this unit is putting out clean air. I urge you to buy this replacement filter every year to do the same.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2110, "id": 291182, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 237, "len_tokens": 374, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R41KSYIILM2A0\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1bXN-uQqFS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61rjNdqMKxS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;&nbsp;They said even tho there's a dent use it. I love it! it is strong stable quiet and it washes clothes really well it spins out really well and takes normal time to dry! I am soooo happy with this big/little washer!  In parentheses is my original review because of the dent from shipping (Just delivered and unpacked. Slid the box off the top and There is a GIANT DEEP dent on the left side of the machine. This is not a ding. Its a really deep dent.  and there is a dent on the front from the inside out not dented in but poking out. I don't even think I should plug it in. What should we do?)\nThe hoses that come with it are short you will most likely need to buy longer high pressure washer hoses and drain hose. If you are in an apartment you will likely need to buy very special valves and water line connectors to hook it up. so plan on spending about 80 to 100 on hoses and valves connectors.  I don't have a normal old faucet. I have a very nice hose handle sprayer kitchen faucet so it doesn't just screw on to my faucet. Be prepared for figuring out how to make it work for your situation. But the washer is definitely worth it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2111, "id": 89312, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 295, "len_tokens": 357, "text": "To be honest, I'd give the product 4.5 stars - it's the customer service that brings it to an overall 5 for me.\n\nThey sent it to me promptly.  It worked great for three months, then one day went completely dead for some reason.  I contacted the seller, even though it was months outside of the return window.  They authorized the return anyway, so I sent it back to them to take a look at.\n\nAfter they got it, I called and they told me they couldn't find a problem, it seemed to work fine.  I could hear it beeping over the phone as they told me, so I figured okay, that's weird, but if it works, great, go ahead and send it back.  They did.\n\nI got it back.  It worked great for about five minutes, then died again.  Evidently it wanted to act like one of those obnoxious electronic defects that never wants to show itself when the repair guy is looking - it happens from time to time, even with otherwise excellent products - nothing is perfect 100% of the time, so no worries .\n\nI called them again and told them what happened.  Without any resistance at all, they told me they would send me a replacement.  They told me not to spend the money shipping the old unit back again, just to provide the serial number so they can contact the manufacturer, and they would pay the freight on the replacement.  It arrived a couple days later from Florida (I'm in Seattle).\n\nThe new one is working great, and this seller does not hesitate to correct a customer service issue with the utmost integrity.  Five stars all the way. . .  seller is a credit to the Amazon community.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2112, "id": 189540, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 280, "len_tokens": 333, "text": "While I was looking forward to having an extra cooktop, and one that's also portable should the need arise, it really hasn't proved useful. For one, most of my cookware does not work with it, which I couldn't figure out beforehand if my main set would or not. Having never used an induction cooktop, I didn't know about that you need magnetized cookware (if a magnet sticks to the bottom, it'll work. If not, it won't.). Oh well, live and learn. However I have experimented with my pots and pans that can be used with the cooktop and I'm less than impressed. I'd say it boils well, but the heat is too inconsistent to cook anything else properly. Part of the problem is the wide difference between heating options, it would benefit with more than five. Even one is too high for some food I'd like to cook and other times I needed a temperature between two settings and had to either settle for the lower setting or toggle between them. Kind of a pain while cooking. The size is a lot larger than I was expecting, which can be either a good or bad thing depending on what it's needed for. However, a plus is that it's relatively quiet, though since I'm an amateur when it comes to these things, I don't know if it's quieter than others. Basically I'm disappointed at the the poor temperature control and that it's not more useful in my kitchen. At least now I know an induction cooktop is not a good fit for me and I'd wager this one isn't the best choice for a newbie to start out on either.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2113, "id": 87846, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2114, "id": 196378, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 279, "len_tokens": 326, "text": "I bought this combo washer/dryer after a lot of research and with some trepidation since half of the reviews were extremely positive and half of them were negative. Unfortunately, that seems to be the case with all other washer/dryer combos out there, so we took a chance on this one that was somewhere in the middle in terms of price and added a 3-year warranty just in case.\n\nSo far it works as advertised. It is energy efficient and uses very little water (to the point that I thought there may be something wrong with the machine) but everything comes up clean as with regular machines I have used in the past.  It is somewhat noisy, but no more than other machines I have owned.\n\nRegarding the dryer, most of the clothes don't come out completely dry, but you hang them a little bit and they are good to go. It is not that they are still wet, it is more like they have been steamed (think with a steam iron). This is what we expected because the way the dryer works (condensation) and because I had been reading the reviews. It may be confusing if you don't expect this\n\nSo far we have been happy with the purchase, but still have some uneasiness based on reports from people that the machine breaks after a while. I will update the review (and rating) if that happens, but so far, so good.\n\nFinally, this is a good machine for a couple. If you have a big family it is not going to work out for you (mainly because dryer takes a long time and only in half load).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2115, "id": 25050, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 254, "len_tokens": 334, "text": "My Extech 445815 hygrometer is not accurate.  I ran this meter through the standard salt humidity test before I used it.  I tested it along with a few other hygrometers that I had on hand.  The salt test creates a stable known humidity in a sealed container.  An accurate hygrometer should read 75%RH.  My Extech 445815 only reached 68%.  I was surprised by this, so I repeated the test trying to find errors in my test methodology.  Each time, the 445815 read 68%. So, my unit reads 7% low.\n\nThe low reading should not be a problem because the 445815 has a multi-turn pot that allows the user to trim the RH adjustment.  The 445815 even includes clear instructions on how to do this, but the procedure proved impossible.  The trim pot was already adjusted to its upper limit.  Turning the trim pot further, did not affect the relative humidity reading.  As another reviewer wrote, there is a soft click sound when the RH trim pot reaches its upper limit. The trim pot did work in the other direction (I could decrease the RH value) but that was not helpful.\n\nHaving said all of this, I do like products from Extech.  I have an amazing Extech multimeter on the bench next to me right now.  Other than this hygrometer, Extech instruments have always proven themselves to be high quality and a good value.\n\nOther reviewers report good results with this meter.  I must have received a dud.  You should test your meter before use.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2116, "id": 279355, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 332, "len_tokens": 379, "text": "Location: Florida\nThis worked out well for me. As others noted it came with a plastic flex tube that specifically says in the directions not to use. I needed a much longer one anyway so that was not an issue for me. The remote seems silly to me, its like the remote that came with my car stereo (why?).\n\nMy issue with install was: there were no studs that lined up to mount to. I had to cut into the wall and install a piece of wood to span the existing studs to give me something solid to mount to. Florida seems to allow for studs spanning around 20 inches which is odd.  This causes quite a bit of structural vibration on high. Kinda like a whole house fan (a huge fan in the garage that sucks air into the attic). The lights are fantastic. It looks really nice hanging on the wall. I just wish i had mounted it a bit lower because it doesn't suck up stuff as strong as I assume it could. Maybe i need a larger duct, an inline blower (25 foot run) or just lower it a bit.\n\nIt works though, clears smoke in no time. Something to note, if there is any question when you mount it, mount it lower than you think you should (closer to the minimum height not the maximum). Also, if it comes down to needing only 2 inches of the other duct sleeve (the extension) you will have a problem because there is some metal in the sleeve that needs to be cut away. Either mount it so it uses one sleeve or mount it low enough that at least 3-4 inches of the second sleeve shows and you will be good (no cuts or aggravation mounting it in place).\n\nIts defiantly a 2 person job. Not because it heavy, you just need an extra set of hands to help in some situations when installing it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2117, "id": 456122, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 295, "len_tokens": 340, "text": "I bought this dishwater 3 years ago thinking it was a higher quality appliance due to the stainless steel interior and Bosch's quality reputation.  Wrong!  I agree with other reviewers about the constant odor unless you remove the filter frequently and clean it. Also, items in the top rack are never completely dry.  There is always water and sediment left, even though I rinse all of my dishes before placing them in the dishwasher (which I should not have to do). However, the biggest problem is with the bendable plate and cup holders that create the rows in the top and bottom rack to hold your dishes in place.  The little plastic parts that attach the flexible plate and cup holders to the top and bottom sliding racks constantly crack, snap and break!!!! When the plastic parts fail, you cannot use the plate and cup holders as they are no longer attached to the dishwasher racks. You just have the flat rack with no upright sections to hold your dishes.  The little replacement parts are expensive as you need several sets to re-attach the flexible cup and plate holders to the racks.  Half of the top rack and half of the bottom rack have these flexible holders and every one of them has broken.  This is not due to excessive use either as this is a one person household.  Also, the exterior panel where you select wash cycle is VERY sensitive.  If you lean against the dishwasher while working at the kitchen counter, the dishwasher will turn on.  This is just a very bad design and I speak from 3 years of aggravation and costly part replacements!  I would swap this Bosch for a good old Maytag, Kenmore or GE model in a heartbeat!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2118, "id": 517097, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 268, "len_tokens": 314, "text": "I have been using this set for a few months now. I am so happy I shopped around and found this pair. Great machines for the price range. Very energy efficient. We wash around 10 loads a week and saw no spike in our bills over when we did not have any washer or dryer. Family of four and our utility bill was $38.\nComes with a quick start guide. I still haven't looked at the manual because the guide was very informative. The standard wash cycle takes 57 minutes and for drying 50 minutes or less depending on the load. There are shorter cycles like Speed Wash which I use on towels usually. You can also program your own cycle (time, temp, speed) to save and use for later. I made one I titled sick family cycle (hot water, extra rinse, fast), yuck lol.\nThese babies are large capacity too. I wash my oversized Queen comforter all the time. And when the cycle is done it plays a joyful tune. The only downside is that if it gets thrown off balance it will stop and give you an error code until you redistribute the weight. But that's no biggie if you load it right to begin with. But expect it if you wash something like a beloved stuffed bear. That will throw it off with a quickness. But still hands down the best machines I have ever had. I don't think I'll be going back to a front loader again with it's finicky seals and high repair costs. This type of top loader is just as good.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2119, "id": 66912, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 251, "len_tokens": 304, "text": "My dad and I tried the vent cleaner today.  We were very impressed with how well it worked.  The kit came with just enough extensions to reach the drier.  If you have a fairly large home, you may seriously want to order the 12' extension kit with it.  My De Walt 18V drill had plenty of power to spin the brush effectively.  When we started the first pass, we couldn't believe how much lint and dust came out of the vent!  There was a fire hazard lurking under my home this whole time.  We are very good about emptying the lint trap but it obviously is not enough.  A few points I observed:\n\n1.  There are plenty of instructions included; both paper and a DVD.\n2.  My small shop vac hose diameter was smaller than the shop vac attachment and I used duct tape to seal the vacuum hose to the adapter. this proved enough air flow to send all lint and dust through the venting.\n3.  Make sure you check under your home to examine the condition of your vent tubing.  I found that mine had disconnected some time ago and lint was collecting under the house.  This was a good time to fix it.\n4.  If you are fixing loose or disconnected venting, some aluminum metal tape works extremely well for the job.\n5.  Having an extra set of hands to help move the dryer, etc, can really make the job more pleasant!\n\nI highly recommend the cleaning system.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2120, "id": 66370, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 256, "len_tokens": 307, "text": "I've got a fairly short dryer vent run with only a couple 90 bends.  Regardless, it was still a consideration that the recent performance drop in my dryer was due to some build-up.\n\nI purchased this kit based on the mostly positive reviews here.  I wasn't disappointed at all with my purchase.  My one concern was a review that stated the brush head they received had a plastic coupling.  I didn't find that the case with the unit I received.  All couplings were metal, and the primary duct brush even included a set screw to ensure it doesn't come loose.  Keep in mind that the flex shafts do not have such a safety mechanism, so be sure to run the power drill only in a clockwise direction as the instructions clearly state.\n\nWhen cleaning my own duct, I ran the brush into the vent from the outside while using the vacuum adapter with my shop vac at the connection where my dryer would normally be located.  My ducting is all galvanized steel from end to end; no flex duct.  I would highly suggest that when using a two speed drill, speed 1 (low) should be plenty fast enough.  Follow the instructions and take your time.  From the beginning to end, the entire process, including running the brush inside the dryer and vacuuming, took less than 30 minutes.\n\nIt's hard to fault anything with this kit considering its price and the amount of money one can save over calling in a \"pro\" to do the same job.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2121, "id": 481906, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 280, "len_tokens": 315, "text": "I want to express my dissatisfaction with your product, and furthermore the support for your products. I had this kegerator purchased as a gift and the product worked great for 22 months before I experienced a total product failure. Upon calling the customer support line I was advised to call a recommended local service technician. The local tech had never heard of this brand. Furthermore upon calling the local repair technician, I was also told that I had to deliver the product for a diagnosis and there would be a $125 charge simply for diagnosis of the problem. I was also told that I could not use your supplied replacement compressor, and that I needed to purchase one from them if they determined the compressor to be the issue. I was able to test and identify the issue was a compressor failure and called back into Kegco where I was still advised that I must spend $125 for diagnostic from a local repair service, and I had to provide an invoice from the repair technician indicating the compressor was the problem.\nOverall, I am dissatisfied with the product and lack of support. I understand there is a limited one year warranty, but no product under normal use in a climate controlled location, should have this type of catastrophic failure within 2 years.  I understand that products malfunction and lemons exist, but even after diagnosing the issue and being willing to repair it myself, I still must come out of pocket to verify what I have diagnosed. My group of friends purchases kegerators as wedding gifts for each wedding, and we will be going elsewhere with our business from here on.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2122, "id": 100283, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 300, "len_tokens": 361, "text": "The Laundry Alternative works exactly as advertised. I do not work for Amazon, but I recommend you buy this product from Amazon, because it costs over $35, which is the minimum you have to purchase here to get free shipping. If you buy it on the Laundry Alternative site, you may pay a few dollars less for the item than on Amazon, but then you will have to pay $12.99 for shipping. I paid $42 for mine. As for the product, itself, it's great for people who live in apartments, a dorm, a trailer, or other small environment, but anyone can use this item for small, mostly hand washables. My dad is 85 and he has no problem hand-cranking it, which is only for about two minutes. In fact, he thinks it's fun, and it sure beats having to lug clothing over to the pay-washers. We still do large loads and heavy items at that facility, but only about once a month now that we can wash our clothing in the LA. A typical load is six pairs of underwear, a few pairs of socks and a couple of t-shirts. We have also washed a pair of his khakis and two button-up shirts in one load, or a pair of my slacks and two to three shirts at the same time. Because of its design, clothes get cleaner than if you were hand washing them, though you will have to wring them out. We still have a dryer, but I also hang up a lot of my things to dry. You save on detergent, too. Great buy, reliable product. Easy to assemble, and mine never leaks. I could use it up on a counter, but I put mine in the bathtub, making it easier to dump the water out. :)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2123, "id": 328355, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 271, "len_tokens": 332, "text": "This freezer does the job reasonably well - it doesn't get things down to 0 degrees farenheit, but it gets close and that's good enough for my purposes.  Things are very safely frozen in this thing.  It also isn't very noisy, though you can tell when the compressor kick in.\n\nOne thing to note is that the shelves are not removable (without disconnecting the \"quick freeze\" mechanism, which I'm not sure you can and which I don't think they'd recommend) or adjustable.\n\nAlso, keep in mind this is not a freezer for storing items you want to get to regularly (e.g. don't put ice pops in there on a hot summer day and go running in to retrieve one every few minutes).  This is a freezer designed for storing food, not regularly accessing it.  It will frost over quickly if you open and close the door a lot and defrosting it means emptying it and letting the ice melt and cleaning up the water.  It doesn't have a drain.\n\nI would have preferred a chest freezer since it would have been less expensive, easier to defrost, and more efficient, but I needed something for a space that wouldn't allow me to have an open top and this Danby does the trick.  If you can fit a chest freezer in your space and don't have a reason for needing an upright, then get one, but if a chest freezer isn't an option, this is a great choice.\n\nAll-in-all, I'm very happy with this freezer.  I could have paid a lot more and gotten a better freezer, but this suited my needs.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2124, "id": 330756, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 272, "len_tokens": 319, "text": "Background: There are plenty of comments on the products specs, and suffice to say it is an attractive stainless-steel front under-the-counter refrigerator, with a blue LED light inside and a constant digital temp reading. So, the only other factor I cared about related to temperature.\n\nTemperature Test: For the last two weeks I ran tests, recording temperature variances. I first put in a case of soda cans to simulate how Id use it and to help maintain the temperature. What I found was the temperature deviated between 33 and 42 degrees. I checked it with a digital thermometer to verify the readings. The unit I set at its lowest setting, 38 degrees, and recorded a variance of 4-5 degrees in either direction. This all makes sense and Im not surprised  that is how refrigerators work.\n\nCompressor Run Time: the best way to mitigate temperature variance is to run the compressor more. Yet that is what bothered a number of reviewers writing about this refrigerator. I wonder if the manufacturer possibly changed the temperature logic to have the compressor come on less often and as a result increased the temperature variance. No idea but a simply a consideration.\n\nBottom line: This refrigerator works fine, is a good value, and it is doing a simple task keeping cans of soda cold. Even when the temperature inside the fridge changes those 9 degrees, the sodas themselves vary in temperature much less (likely a third of that amount). Think in terms of the ambient air temperature versus water temperature if you live on the coast. One changes much faster than the other. Hope this helps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2125, "id": 44901, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 263, "len_tokens": 353, "text": "I didn't believe that this unit could make as much ice as the description says.  I bought it because my 6 month old side by side can only make 8 cubes every 3-4 hours (It actually says that in the owners manual).\n\nThis little thing filled my side by side's ice tray, itself, a couple of water glasses, then we turned it off.  Nowhere to put all that ice.  It is unbelievable how quickly this little machine makes ice.  Plus,  all the comments about how quiet it is are right.  It makes noise, but it is not an issue at all!\n\nI haven't owned it long, so I can't comment on longevity, but even if it lasts a year, it would be worth it to stop running out of ice.\n\n07/04/2014 - Averaging 80 cubes of big ice per hour.  I put so much of this ice into my Kenmore that 95% of the ice coming our of the Kenmore was made by this NewAir.\n\nLoving it so far!\n\n07/26/2014\n\nThis sucker is making all the ice I thought my Kenmore should make.  Love the ice size, but it does have a LOT of surface for warming.  I am now taking all the ice it makes and put it into the ice bin in my Kenmore.\n\nThis machine is un-freaking-believable.  When it dies, I'm buying another one.\n\n10/25/2014\nHaving a gathering on Sunday.  We take the ice from the Newair, bag it, and put it in the freezer so I don't have to buy any.  We are still loving this ice maker.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2126, "id": 453019, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 285, "len_tokens": 379, "text": "I ordered this water pump in December 2010 for my sebring jxi 2.5L.  Great price, but you get what you pay for.  When I received it, I realized only half the water pump was provided.  The shipment included metal gaskets and a new o-ring, but only the impeller half of the pump.  I had to re-use the inside half of the pump housing off my old one.  Granted, gaskets were provided to put the two halves together, but still, a whole pump would have been preferred.  If that had been the end of it, I would have given this 3-4 stars, based on price alone.  But here it is Sept. of 2011, 9 months later, and I'm replacing the pump again.  The sebring developed a whine about a month ago, and started overheating last week.  I considered contacting the seller, but I needed the car fixed now, not after waiting for emailed correspondence and shipping.  At least I've had some practice now, I replaced the pump with an Aisin pump from Merles automotive supply (Parts +Plus) over a saturday.  It cost me 96.99 before tax, but the car immediately sounded way better when I fired her back up.  I idled her, drove her on the freeway, and idled again.  No longer overheating at all, and the car ran hot and boiled before with a casual 2 mile surface street drive at night.  This might have been a fluke, maybe I just got a bad part.  For the price, and a brand name like Bosch, this seems like a good deal, but the headache of changing a pump out twice definately overrides the savings, even if you can get the seller to provide a free replacement...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2127, "id": 87294, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2128, "id": 195644, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 326, "len_tokens": 393, "text": "I read other reviews about people having a really tough time installing it, and then getting all of the air bubbles out of it.  I've done my fair share of wallpapering and using contact paper to recover tables, so I thought it would be easier.  I also removed the panel from the dishwasher so I could work at a table which I think is infinitely easier than trying to attach to a panel in a dishwasher.\n\nDespite this, it was an epic failure.  I cut a piece slightly larger than the panel I was working on.  And I tried to put it on the top edge and work my way down.  Immediately I was getting air bubbles.  Just just a couple like I've gotten w/ contact paper but a ton.  I installed about half of it and it looked horrible and extremely amateurish.  So I decided to remove the portion I had affixed and use the other side of the panel (which is black).\n\nBe forewarned:  once it is smoothed into place (or once you try to smooth into place), that little sucker does not want to come off.  So even if I had wanted to peel the adhered portion back to try to remove air bubbles, it would have been in vain.\n\nI ended up with the piece in crumbles.  In hindsight, probably the best thing to do would be to 1) remove the panel from the dishwasher, 2) cut the piece to size (or slightly larger) and get a can of that light adhesive (3M makes it, it's the same adhesive that's on a post it) and spray the panel and use that to adhere the stainless piece in place. That way, you can more easily reposition it and it was enough of a \"stick\" that it will adhere to the panel.\n\nI think I'll be OK having black panels (an improvement over the almond color) and anyone who tries this:  good luck.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2129, "id": 553677, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 254, "len_tokens": 302, "text": "I have this same stove but in the regular stainless steel. It's a great stove. I LOVE LOVE LOVE it.  I've read reviews and there's some debate about cleaning the stove top. I found how to do it: Let it cool. Use a wet paper-towel to wipe it off (not soaking, just wet) and then dry with a paper towel. If there's a good amount of food or heavier spills, use wet paper towels with a drop of hand dish washing soap. Then rinse and dry with a paper towel. Every week or if there are 'stains' left over after cleaning, use the \"cerama bright\" (that comes with the stove) and put a large drop at all four corners and one in the middle. Use a new, just damp paper towel and lightly rub to get the stains off and then rub the whole stove top. Then rinse with a towel with plain water and dry. If a bit of food is burnt on after all of this, us the razor blade that comes in the \"cerama bright\" kit you can buy on Amazon. Just wet the stain a bit, and slowly and lightly push the blade across the burned food at various angles (I've only had to do this once). The ONLY time to clean the stove top when it's hot or warm is if sugary stuff is spilled - quickly get a paper towel wet and get rid of it, it can do permanent damage (also plastic, like Tupperware containers).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2130, "id": 394435, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 222, "len_tokens": 303, "text": "UPDATE: If you buy this, prepare to replace literally every piece of it.  I've upgraded the regulator, tower cooling, hose clamps, shanks, lines, all connectors, hell even the drip tray had to be upgraded in an effort to deal with all these foaming issues I've been experiencing.\n\nI've spent hundreds on it, wasted more than that in beer tasting bad, I wish I would've spent an extra $500 on a better model rather than spending that on the parts to upgrade it.\n\nEND OF UPDATE\n\nI'd give it a 4.5 star rating, but that's not an option.  Need to buy a tower cooler or the beer is super foamy, picked one up at a local homebrew store for $40.  Took an entire 1/6th barrel as the trial and error period trying to balance out the system, but I got it worked out finally\n\nHad issues with CO2 leaks, luickily, since I was looking for them, I picked up on it early.  Picking up nicer hose clamps fixed it.\n\nA dual regulator would be nice, I recommend it, the one that came with the kegerator doesn't have a monitor for the CO2 tank itself.\n\nFits 2 1/6th barrels perfectly, definitely won't fit 2 1/4th barrels or larger though, I'm enjoying a nice pumpkinhead from shipyard brewery and conchtoberfest from florida beer company :)", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2131, "id": 340743, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 328, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "This kit is a much better alternative to the original part. It was easy to install and I did it with the provided instructions in about 20 minutes open to close. There are some reviews on this product that mention a YouTube video to use because of the poor instructions. I feel the instructions were written more for a professional serviceman to install rather than for the average homeowner. However, they were adequate and honestly there is just not that many parts to figure out. I have struggled more with Lego instructions than these. I initially thought this product should get 3 stars because the didn't address the real problem of the initial design. The axle on the rollers should be made of metal, I don't know that it was necessary to make the whole armature metal. After closer inspection, I was pleasantly surprised to see that they have made it so that the axle/roller part can be replaced with just a single screw. I don't know that the part is available by itself or if you would still need to buy the whole kit again. For this reason, I am going to add a star to my review for the product. I am going to give the Whirlpool/Kitchenaid/Maytag engineers 2 stars for making such a poor mechanism to start with.\nMy biggest frustration with this product is probably the same one that most people that are searching for this kit have. Why do I need to buy this item at all. I should have been able to call Sears and tell them what was wrong, then they say \"Sorry sir, that was a poor decision to put a part like that on one of our dishwashers. I will be happy to send a replacement to you at no charge.\" What I did hear when I called is \"Sorry sir, you seem frustrated. I can give you a 10% discount but, it will still be cheaper on Amazon.\"", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2132, "id": 496261, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 304, "len_tokens": 374, "text": "I really wanted to enjoy this wine cooler.  There were a couple of less severe issues upon delivery - the plastic molding on the bottom, right hand part of the door was broken (cosmetic), and one of the wooden shelves was cracked.  But I was willing to ignore those issues.  But the killer issue was that it just didn't maintain the cool temperature.\n\nI set it up, let it sit for 24 hours, plugged it in, then set the temperature to 64.  The display blinks as you set the temperature, then stays on to show the actual temperature.  It gradually cooled the inside from the room temperature down to my desired 64 degrees.  But then the compressor never came back on to maintain the 64 degree temp.  The thermometer display continued to show 64, but the inside gradually warmed back up to room temperature (70+), measured by a separate thermometer I had placed in the cooler. If I push a few buttons, it wakes up, the temperature display rises to show the correct temperature, and the compressor comes on to cool it back down again.  But then the cycle repeats, with the temperature display showing the desired temp even as the insides warm back up to room temperature.\n\nIn the attached picture, you can see the temperature display is showing 64, but the thermometer on the inside shows it is 70.2.  The compressor is not running to cool things down.  If I push even the left button to switch between Fahrenheit and Centigrade, the compressor will come on, although only for a single cooling cycle.\n\nCalled AKDY, they didn't have any suggestions for me other than to return it.  So, I'm returning my unit back to Amazon.\n\nIf you have one of these, I STRONGLY suggest you confirm the temperature with a separate thermometer.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2133, "id": 553472, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 295, "len_tokens": 338, "text": "The Lambro dryer Vent is a wonderful device.\n\nWhen you are replacing a dryer vent with the Lambro dryer vent you must make some arrangement for securing your flexible vent pipe coming from the dryer onto the outside of the house.\n\nThe directions on the box leave something to be desired.\nThe directions (Step 1) ASSUME that the existing dryer vent pipe is secured to the outside of the house before installing the elbow section.\n\nMy former metal dryer vent was something like this with the flexible pipe stretched over the inside end of the metal pipe and clamped over it.\nWhen I removed clamp holding the flexible pipe and pulled the flexible pipe off from the metal vent I realized that there was nothing to secure the flexible pipe to the outer house wall!\n  So I cut off the metal hood on my old vent to leave a flat, square outer surface. Next, I reattached the flexible pipe and clamp and pushed it back into the outer house wall. Then I caulked around the metal pipe where it goes through the clapboards. I also caulked the outside face of the old metal dryer vent (now missing its hood).\n\n(Step 2) I placed the elbow section the metal surface (covered with caulk) and screwed them into the outside wall. This way I had a sealed, secure way of connecting the flexible pipe and the new elbow section.\n\n(Step 3) I completed  installing the upper section and it worked like a charm. The cold dryer and room around it are now cozy!\n\nWhen you are replacing a dryer vent with the Lambro dryer vent you must make some arrangement for securing your flexible vent pipe coming from the dryer onto the outside of the house.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2134, "id": 121676, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 270, "len_tokens": 335, "text": "As I type, this model sits brand new at Lowe's.  I know this because I saw it this morning as I chose its replacement.  I so wish I'd read these reviews 18 months ago before we purchased this lemon.\n\nStraight out of Lowe's, brand new, I never liked this unit.  It's quiet, but that's where the pros stop.  Our panel blew out yesterday and judging from the other reviewers, we're better off going with a different brand (We chose Whirlpool Gold).  The machine never cleaned well, not even with a rinse aid and Finish Powerballs.  I basically used it for the high heat sanitizing because thorough hand-washing was the only way to ensure clean dishes.\n\nThe fact that you can turn it on reaching for your coffee pot or up to the cabinet is an annoyance I share with too many others here.  Picky things?  The silverware holder design lends to everyone stuffing their forks in the more easily acceptable front quarter section and the door is stiff and bad on the back.  Also, the indicator light will show \"Clean\" yet you open the door to find it is still drying and there is no way to continue the drying cycle. So, now you're stuck with drippy dishes and when you call from the sofa for your children to unload the dishes, well, their 'ewww, it's still wet' complaints make your bon bons go down the wrong way.\n\nNone of that matters.  The thing is dead.  Should have bought the extended warranty, but then I'd still have this horrible machine.  Please do yourself a favor and skip this model.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2135, "id": 518261, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 276, "len_tokens": 326, "text": "If I had a chance to give Bosch NO star for their low quality products and horrible customer service, I would gladly do it.\n\nAfter much debate between choosing Bosch or Thermador, I reluctantly purchased this product to be the showcase of my newly-updated kitchen. My wife and I were very excited to finally use a \"semi high-end\" brand name cooktop. The installation of our cooktop took too long due to issues finding an gas plumber. We purchased the product in June and it sat in a box until September.\nAfter the second use, I attempted to clean the product by following the manufacturer's exact recommended care guidelines. I used a plastic sponge for washing dishes and dish washing liquid. The surface of the unit immediately discolored and got ruined.\nI contacted Bosch's support to complain about the quality of this appliance. They told me that there was nothing they could do for me because the \"cosmetic period\" had ended.  Bosch has a 30-day cosmetic warranty period. Also they told me that they would not honor the warranty because I did clean the cooktop surface in the direction of the \"finished grain\" of the metallic surface!!!!! They made up with all sorts of nonsense reasons why they couldn't accommodate my request to exchange the product.\nThe best they could offer me was to have the top replaced and I would have to pay for the labor cost. Replacing the top would require a town permit,  hiring a gas plumber at $250-$500 an hour and a final inspection.\nI am so disappointed in Bosch and its products. I will never buy another product from them. Total rip-off......", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2136, "id": 273991, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 324, "len_tokens": 380, "text": "These are 36 x 12.5 x 5 mm carbon motor brushes made by Bosch. Chances are that any brushes of those dimensions will work for you, as long as they are motor brushes, but these are the real thing. At minimum, you will want the correct terminals on top so that these can be put in the motor easily. Once you feed the spring through the hole, it's just a matter of pushing the tab through, pushing down on the other end when the two notched parts are lined up, and pulling the tab forward. If you get a really off brand, you'd have to resolder the connectors.\n\nThere are non-OEM versions that should work fine and you can get them for as little as $6 if you don't mind taking your chances on something sent from China. If you look at the photos of those, you can see that they aren't of the same quality. That doesn't mean that they won't work, but chances are you are looking for these because you want to fix your motor ASAP. If I had a month or more to spare before my motor was scheduled to fail, I'd probably go for generic ones. But ordering these gave me the peace of mind to know that they would work, and they work perfectly. The brushes are smooth coated, and are angled exactly for my motor.\n\nThese have lasted me about six years in the past, but that will vary based on how much laundry you do, what spin speed you use, etc. I might end up getting a cheap off brand pair just to have spares in the house, but if you need brushes right away, get these.\n\nNote: There are several different sellers for these and all of them are required to stock the exact OEM item. If you don't get what you were expecting, it's probably the seller and not the item that's the problem.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2137, "id": 45306, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 223, "len_tokens": 304, "text": "Note: this is a review on the discontinued AI130S purchased from Amazon from NewAir, who's exclusive distributor is Air-n-water.  Since I cannot place a review of that unit, I thought this might be helpful for purchasers of other NewAir units.\n\nIn general, the NewAir icemakers do the job and crank out ice.  The basic mechanics, compressors, etc. are fairly sound.  However... 1) the magnet used in the sensor for 'full ice' fell out, and we had to figure out how to reinstall it correctly and glue it in place.  2) It worked for the first year, but now although the resivour in back is 'full', it does not put sufficient water into the lower/front chamber.  So, it gurgles and rah-rah-rah's as it pumps some water and some air, causing terrible ice and noise.  Pouring a cup or two of water into the font solves the problem.  The 1 year warranty just does not cut it.  The manufacturer refuses to give me any troubleshooting advise other than \"we'll send you a RMA form, and if you submit it we MAY allow you to return it to us to be repaired on a time-and-materials basis\".\n\nMy recommendation:  I'm sure the AI100K uses similar sensors and construction...Buy an extended warranty from Squaretrade, you may need it.  Or just budget for a new one every few years.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2138, "id": 90199, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 294, "len_tokens": 359, "text": "Like most other reviewers here the product worked perfectly for us.  Completely eliminated cloudy and spotted dish issue.\n\nLike many reviewers here, we were given the run-around when ordering replacement filters.  Order was supposed to have been shipped only later to find out it didn't, but will for sure next week, and the week after, and the week after.\n\nSince the filters can be opened, I took a peek inside and discovered that they were filled with the same ion exchange resin that whole house water softeners use.  These resins are DESIGNED to be re-charged.  Re-charging is simple.  Fill a 2 Litre pitcher or juice container with warm water.  Add in a cup of table salt and stir to dissolve.  Dump in the resin ( they are tiny beads ) from the filter into the pitcher and stir.  I leave the resin in the saline liquid for about an hour, giving it a stir every 10 minutes or so.  Now, put the empty filter container in the sink and slowly pour the pitcher into the filter.  The water will drain out at the bottom.  Finally make sure the threads at the top of the filter body are completely clean, pop the fibre filter back on the top, and then screw the top back on.\n\nThe added bonus is that this re-charge lasts twice as long as an original filter.  We needed to change new filters monthly, but we usually go well over two months with a re-charged filter.\n\nYou lose a bit of resin each time you go through this process, but if you bought a couple of filters ( we have eight ) you can always top it up.  Replacement water softener ion exchange resin is easy to source.  You can even find it here on amazon.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2139, "id": 188461, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 259, "len_tokens": 333, "text": "Replaced ignitor in my Amana Big Oven Model ACF3325A, a Model no longer found.  It is now Maytag ACF3325AC.  I crossed my fingers and ordered it.  I is not an \"Exact\" replacement, as the attaching bracket for the original is at a right angle to the ignitor instead of perpendicular. What this means is the stock ignitor element faces the tube where the gas flows in to the oven and is parallel to it,  Just for fun. I bolted the replacement to the oven which placed the ignitor facing up beside the supply tube.  The sides of the ignitor have openings, so I reasoned the gas could be exposed to the ignitor element regardless of its orientation.  Plugged in the oven turned it on and viola!  The gas truly doesn't care.  It hits that red hot element and ignites.\n\nThere was no way I could have fished the plug in connector out of the back of the oven, had I ordered that style, as it was, I just cut and stripped the stock ignitor wires, used the enclosed ceramic wire nuts, shortened the lead on the \"Exact Replacement\", and was in business.  Not to mention, the price for the Maytag replacement part # 0110142305 was over 60 bucks and this one was under 15, as well as they sent it in two days, was really happy.  I deducted one star because it was not an \"exact\" replacement and some anxiety was created, thinking I might have to fabricate an L bracket in order for it to be properly positioned.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2140, "id": 262324, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 326, "len_tokens": 376, "text": "Many of the reviews on this product are not very detailed so I hope this helps to clear things up. First I bought this filter for a GE profile fridge to replace a GSWF filter and it fits and works.  At half of the cost of a GE filter I thought it was worth the risk since Amazon has a great return policy.\n\nSecond it is important to note that this filter and any aftermarket GSWF compatible filter I have seen does not meet the same filtration standards as the GE brand. Specifically the GE brand filter meets NSF standards 42 (taste) and 53  (health) and aftermarket filters only meet standard 42 (taste).  Please do your own research on these topics and the quality of your tap water and decide yourself.  If I had any doubt's about my tap water I would use the GE filter.\n\nThird many  of these reviews mentioned that instructions recommended to presoak the filter, my instructions did not say this on the box or insert.  I did rinse the filter so any loose carbon did not enter my fridge water piping and I suggest this for all water filters in fridge and pitchers.\n\nFinally the installation was a little tricky. When I unboxed the filter I was happy to see the seal but unhappy to see the rubber gasket stuck to the seal when I peeled it off. This gasket is necessary to prevent leakage so look out for this gasket and put it back in place.  After installation my filter did leak immediately so I had to remove the gasket and realign it and the leaking stopped.\n\nBottom line this filter seems to be a great replacement for GE.  The water flow seems to be the same and taste is fine. I would like to see a better quality gasket so I give it 4 stars but I will buy another in 6 months if there are no issues.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2141, "id": 303166, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 276, "len_tokens": 308, "text": "Good freezer, extremely quiet, definitely keeps things frozen. I followEd the advice of some other reviewer's and moved the freezer into position and let it sit for a couple of days before I plugged it in. When I did plug it in I thought it wasn't working. I heard the click of the thermostat but couldn't hear the compressor running unless I put my ear right down next to the freezer! I followed the directions and set the thermostat at 6 for about four hours and then loaded some already frozen food into the freezer. I left the thermostat at 6 until the following day and then I changed the setting to somewhere between 4 and 5 (can't see it clearly). I have a digital thermometer that I put in the freezer and every time I have checked it since adjusting the thermostat it has read LL.L, which means the temperature inside the freezer is below the low range limit of the thermometer (-4F). I didn't find the baskets that useful, they kept falling out when I would slide them out to add food so I just removed them. That's one reason for the four star review, the others are that the shelves are not adjustable and because it's made in China. Given all the hazardous and toxic substances that are being found in products coming from China I'm really not comfortable with Chinese products having any contact with food or liquid I intend to consume. In this case I'm taking SOME comfort in the fact that there will always be at least one protective layer of packaging between my food and the freezer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2142, "id": 112516, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 271, "len_tokens": 339, "text": "I've owned my Maytag Bravos 600x washer and dryer for four months now.  I read instructions closely since this is the first time I've used a fancy HE washing machine.  We chose a top loader because of all the bad reviews on front loaders.  Oh how I long for my old time traditional agitator-style machine!  I'm not impressed with this washer.  There is no way I'm saving energy on my laundry because I have re-wash my exercise clothes because they still smell after one wash.  Washing anything heavy like blankets or sheets results in sopping wet loads, which requires I rearrange the blanket and run \"drain and spin\" cycle.  Today I washed a twin size cotton blanket and I had to re-spin it three times before the water was removed!  I have to re-arrange sheets to get it perfectly balanced for the spin cycle or else they are dripping wet.  All my clothes appear to get really beaten up by this washer.  The clothes are all twisted and each garment needs to be shaken straight before placing in the dryer, even then most things still have the wrinkles fresh from hot dryer.  I have to iron my clothes a LOT more often now.  Also, the soap dispenser stays wet.  You can pull it out to wipe it dry but it's not easy to re-install.  Water sits under the soap dispenser so you have to push a paper towel back there before installing the dispenser back in.  Maytag recommends using Affresh brand cleaner to sanitize the washer once a month ($7 at Wal-Mart.)  What a PAIN.  I would not recommend this washer.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2143, "id": 59710, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 238, "len_tokens": 319, "text": "When our trusty KitchenAid dishwasher died, we decided to \"upgrade\" and got this one.  Bad decision.  We made it, unfortunately, based on the brand-name.  First, it doesn't hold as many items, not because of the layout of the racks, but because if you utilize all the slots and tines, you will have a dishwasher full of dirty dishes.  You have to skip slots between items and spread everything out in order to have a chance of clean dishes.  Of course, that means 1) higher cost for water, detergent; 2) having to run the dishwasher more often; and 3) water waste.) Two, the powder detergent always gets stuck in the compartment so that dishes don't get clean, i.e., re-run again and spend more money on pellet/pouch dishwasher detergents, waste more water and energy.  Three, we have to regularly run the cycle on high heat or else no chance at clean dishes, which means longer cycles, more water, more energy waste, etc.  Four, the three times (after the warranty period, of course) we tried to run it on heavy, error message is followed by an accumulation of water on the drip tray underneath the unit which can only be reset after pulling the entire unit out of the cabinet, flipping it on its back, unscrewing the pan, emptying the pan, and drying the sensor.  Don't buy this.  I shoulda, coulda, woulda gotten the KitchenAid that I was also looking at.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2144, "id": 61475, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 221, "len_tokens": 347, "text": "I purchased this filter for my Graco home humidifier.  I regularly performed operational maintenance on my humidifier, including washing the filter.  Despite the maintenance the filter slowly became discolored from the natural pollutants and minerals contained in my water.  This Graco Filter helped solve my problem.\n\nI carefully care for the filter.  To avoid frequently replacing the filter,  I use a procedure that can extend the life of the filter.  When the filter forms a crust, I soak it for awhile in vinegar water (usually 1 part vinegar to 4 parts water).  After soaking I carefully rinse the filter several times in fresh water.\n\nThe Graco humidifier that I use is an evaporation style machine.  To work properly, the \"filter\" must be free of pollutants, as the machine adds moisture to the air by having a fan blow air through the sponge type filter (exactly like the \"swamp coolers\" so popular in arid climates).  Clogs decrease effectiveness and add pollutants to the air in the room being used.  Accordingly, in addition to carefully maintaining the filter, I add  KAZ Humidifier Bacteriostatic Treatment to the reservoir to prevent the growth of bacterial agents. (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/KAZ-Humidifier-Bacteriostatic-Treatment/dp/B0009GZLYU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">KAZ Humidifier Bacteriostatic Treatment</a>\n\nWhen properly maintained, the Graco Humidifier Replacement filter is an excellent product.  I recommend this filter for evaporation humidifiers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2145, "id": 289046, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 234, "len_tokens": 317, "text": "I thought I was re-ordering one like those two I had ordered previously. It looked the same, was priced the same and those two are still functioning as expected.\nUnlike those, this one arrived without the two little button batteries to power it. Those same type declared dangerous to children, due to being a swallowing hazard. Perhaps this is why they were not shipped direct mail from China, I don't know.\nPerhaps that is why they are not available here in my area, I don't know that either.\n\n I DO know it would save time, money and hassle to simply go back and buy the one I originally purchased, instead of fooling with locating those batteries and having them sent instead.\nhttp://www.amazon.com/Digital-Thermometer-Temperature-Freezer-Outdoor/dp/B00GT4XI9G/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2SWYF88E9FWPA\n\n I see now I failed to review that product and will now do so, as it has had some unwarranted (I feel) reviews. After 7 months of stellar performance from both of them I feel I can give them five stars with some degree of accuracy..\nUnlike this one, those you just place where you desire and they begin working. I don't know what to do with this one. It is not heavy enough for a door stop, too thick for a bookmark and not enough of a big deal to worry about.. So I'll just chalk it up to \"Live and learn\" while you benefit from the sideline, hopefully. .", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2146, "id": 464410, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 315, "len_tokens": 371, "text": "Purchased Whirlpool belt 8181670 through Amazon but received belt W10388414. Thought I had been shipped the wrong belt, especially after comparing with my 10 year old belt* (see bottom of post).\n\nContacted seller, Appliance Care Store, while still thinking that they had shipped the wrong belt. They promptly replied less than 24 hours later stating that the part shipped was a direct replacement for the part I thought I'd ordered, but due to my description of the belts not matching offered a full refund upon receipt of the shipped item and included a Return Authorization. So after reading and double checking online, it is the correct part. When comparing the new belt with the old belt, the new belt was wider and a little shorter than my old belt, which is why I really thought they had shipped the wrong belt. Apparently the old belt had stretched about an inch. The new W10388414 belt did go on very tightly, you just have to loop around motor spindle, then hold belt onto one side of pulley and slowly turn pulley around bringing the belt onto the pulley - like putting a chain on a bike. It makes sense that the belt should be really tight since it only uses friction to transfer from the motor spindle to the pulley.\n\n*The belt had already slipped off once due to a loose nut allowing the wash drum pulley to wobble loosely.. which then wore out the belt on one side. All this time I thought I needed new shocks for my Whirlpool Duet because the washer would make a pretty good racket when spinning on medium and high speeds. Shocks not being cheap to replace, was waiting until they failed more. So needless to say check your large nut that holds the pulley onto the washer drum, it may be loose! Easily accessible from the back panel.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2147, "id": 402587, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 281, "len_tokens": 314, "text": "Perfect for small loads in an apartment with no washer. The main reason I give it 4 stars is that the hose that comes with it does is not compatible with my sink or bathtub faucet. My original plan was to put it in my bathtub when in use, however my bathtub is hollow and the vibration from the machine (while not particularly loud by itself) ends up echoing through my bathtub so much that my neighbors are probably able to hear it no problem. I ended up moving the washer out to my patio which works just fine since I'm on the ground floor. I use a 3 gallon bucket to fill it up with usually about 5-6 gallons of water for a couple pairs of underwear, a shirt and shorts. Still experimenting with load size but it seems perfect for the small loads I need it for.\n\nThe instructions are in very broken English (some of it is pretty amusing) but thankfully there are plenty of videos on Youtube by other people that have purchased the washer and demonstrate how to use it.\n\nThe washer runs in spurts of about 6 seconds which is a little annoying to listen to, but it's not the worst and doesn't run for long (12 minutes max for one cycle). The spin dryer is practically silent and siphons the water out surprisingly well. I still have to air dry what's left, but that was expected. I've only used it a couple times but so far it was well worth my money to not have to go around the outside of my building and down to the basement to pay for my laundry.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2148, "id": 494125, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 261, "len_tokens": 328, "text": "This is a very attractive and practical cooler.  I like the lighted dispenser area and the small fridge underneath.  The hot water tank tends to boil when cycling, and that can be a bit noisy, but I have not seen any coolers that do not do this recently.  I do not use the compartment for wine, but for bottled water.  Climate in the compartment is not closely controlled FYI.  There is an interlock on the door that alerts you by light if the door is not closed - a nice touch.  So my only gripe is the hot water tank noise, and it is hard to avoid that if you want to have instant hot water.  This is a very good product.  I will let you know with a later post if the compressor does not last.  Compressor life on some other coolers has become an issue recently.  Never was a problem with the American made Elkay and Cordley-Temprite coolers made up in Lanark Illinois, but with foreign made coolers, probably using compressors made with slightly looser specs, it has been more unpredictable.  I like the 'water-safe' probe feature too.  It prevents spillage when loading a bottle, and it also helps keep the system sanitary.  That was originally an Elkay (Ron Katz) concept, and no one has ever duplicated their plastic spout, which allowed water to flow quickly and evenly. Water flow is slightly slowed for large filling because of the puncture spout interior diameter and the lack of the flow characteristics engineered into the Elkay products, but it works ok.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2149, "id": 96602, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 274, "len_tokens": 333, "text": "I thought GE was always on the higher end of appliances. Well, products and reputations change. It was time to get rid of my old GE Filter Flow washer that was 25 years old and ony had one $70.00 repair it's whole life.  So I purchased a Profile top load in 2009.  What garbage this unit is.  The first time in use, it would not drain.  I made a fuss with my selling dealer (Pacific Sales in Pasadena, Ca.) and they replaced it with a new unit as GE said it would take three weeks to get parts and repair.\nThe new replacement does not clean well at all and I use it on the high water setting with the second rinse set for all uses. There is soil left on the cloths even after a soak cycle.  Junk, junk,junk.\nThe worst thing is the horrible pounding sound it makes in the spin cycle--I even resort to washing additional cloths to try and balance the load---it just is a poorly engineered machine that can not operate in spin mode without making a fuss.\nThis washer is JUNK.  Shame on GE for producing and still sellig this product.  I would give anything to have my old Filer Flow washer back.\nI am going to have replace my Washer and Dryer with a front load set, once I can afford to do so. I can not stand the noise and thumping any more.  I have replace the dryer which works great because I can not live with a mismatched set--the units are visable and have to match for my satisfaction.\nDO NOT BUY THIS WASHER.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2150, "id": 557266, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 331, "len_tokens": 399, "text": "My wife's closed to 10 years old mixer started having the issue with loose planetary. I disassembled the gear box and identified a few gears worn out and the planetary shaft being loose from the base. I replaced the planetary with this one, every gear parts, and the lower bearing part so that I could recondition the mixer as her secondary mixer as we bought the \"real\" Pro Series to replace this mixer. Unfortunately, the replacement part didn't fix it because for some reason its center shaft is a bit too long so that the planetary still comes down as I ran the mixer with a mixing attachment. It is not as bad as the original issue but still bad enough to hit the bowl. I tried everything (probably reassembled it 10 times) to see if I'd made any mistake, but there was still about 1/12\" or 1/6\" gap, which caused the shaft to drop down. The issue looks like this video at 1 minute mark:\n\n[...]\nI have spent enough time with trying to fix the mixer and the mixer is going into the garage today and will be sent to the proper disposal with my wife's approval. I am quite disappointed that OEM part didn't have the precision required. It almost wants me to buy the same, new, mixer and disassemble it see what it really looks like in new.\n\nBTW, people, please buy the real \"Pro Series\" from KitchenAid. It costs more but with 5 year \"full replacement\" warranty, which renews itself  if you ever get a replacement while you are being covered, I think it is worth it (plus you get more powerful mixer). Our new \"Pro Series\" mixer actually got replaced in a year after the purchase because it started making a clicking noise - we were worried that the same could happen to the new mixer. My wife is very happy with the new mixer and the service provided by KitchenAid for \"Pro Series\".", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2151, "id": 28395, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 281, "len_tokens": 315, "text": "Best thing ever. I was REALLY worried about getting and using this - I read some horror stories on here about lint going everywhere. I've used this for a few weeks now and have done at least 5 loads of laundry in a row without any lint getting anywhere except in the little water in the plastic cup, just like it is supposed to. There is no lint in the closet at all (where my laundry is). Also I was afraid it was going to be really hot - even though I keep the door to the closet open, I haven't noticed it making my place any hotter. I feel the heat when I walk by, but that's it. And I guess I could shut the door but I don't bother. It's July here in Mass. so it's hot but the dryer doesn't seem to make a difference. I even had it going with my windows closed and my window AC units going and it was totally fine. Also the dryer dries clothes really fast. Faster than a regular dryer - and my dryer is tiny so I think there may be some credence to the idea that this device makes the dryer more efficient, but who knows. This thing cost me less than $20 - a lot cheaper than paying someone to install the venting needed to vent the dryer outside. I would highly recommend this to anyone. I think the guy who was complaining about the lint must not have put water in the bucket. I can't think of any other reason why he would have tons of lint and I don't have any in a confined space...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2152, "id": 108332, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 250, "len_tokens": 305, "text": "We remodeled an $800,000 home and put in all Bosch appliances because our builder recommended it since it was going to be on the parade of homes.  The Bosch slide in gas range/oven and the under counter oven have been fine.  The microwave is okay if you don't mind wiping down fingerprints with every touch and the dishwasher has some of its own issues.  However, the refrigerator is a bust!\n\nWe had a frigidaire for over 8 years at our other home and I would LOVE to have it back.  We have many children and got the ice in the door for them to easily get water.  The buttons work about 1/2 the time - you have to push them several times to get them to work.  You can't get ice/water one-handed.  The ice spews all over the floor and the water comes out so fast it makes a mess as well.  The inside only has one area large enough to put your milk - so you have to lay juice/coke, etc.. on their sides. If you leave the door open for any length of time - a very high pitched alarm sounds and it's pain to turn it off.\n\n The only good thing about this refrigerator (which may be available on other brands) is that the storage drawers in the freezer are great.\n\nIf you are looking to impress someone with a 'Bosch' - get it.  If you're wanting a good, practical refrigerator - I suggest shopping around.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2153, "id": 96609, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 336, "len_tokens": 387, "text": "Although I prefer to install laundry appliances in either a garage or laundry room, my current home unfortunately requires those appliances to be located in an interior closet on the second floor of the structure. My installation is side-by-side, not stacked. This model washer from GE is designed with a \"hanging tub\" configuration where the motor unit is attached to the bottom of the plastic liner tub.  The steel washing basket is itself surrounded by a plastic liner tub which contains a permanent solution of saline water in which the wash basket spins with very low resistance and does not have the traditional set of gears between the motor and tub. The entire assembly is freely suspended from the inside top of the steel box by four metal rods which allow the entire mass of tub, water, and motor (including its bottom counterweight stone) to dynamically move in all directions throughout the wash cycle. The result is a washing machine which, when clothes and water are included, has quite a significant internal mass in extreme motion, especially during the spin cycle.  It was the high-speed spin cycle which my house could not tolerate.\n\nI admit, this configuration might be specifically designed to be highly reliable over the service life of the appliance due to a lower part count and direct drive arrangement.  However, it is totally unsuitable for my needs due to the amount of large-mass vibration which seems to so easily occur in common everyday usage.  GE Service technicians visited and inspected my installation and verified the correct leveling adjustment of the mounting legs, but they also revealed to me that this model is designed to operate with a very-freely-suspended basket.  In the end, I returned this GE washer and selected a different model from a different manufacturer and I'm very happy with it.  It has a hard-mounted motor and basket, and also spins at a significantly slower speed.  I recommend considering your own installation circumstances when selecting a washer and dryer for your home.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2154, "id": 349403, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 262, "len_tokens": 356, "text": "Wow! The packaging and advertising note that these new EveryDrop filters are the newest and best side-by-side filters out there.  But then why do so many people, including my entire family say that the water tastes worse?\n\nUNBOXING:\nThe EveryDrop 2-pack comes in a non-locking plastic clamshell with cardboard overlay.  It's a nice design, easy to open, and professional looking.\n\nREVIEW:\nThe EveryDrop 2-pack is a great value!  2 filters for approximately $60 that will last the next 12 months--that's $5 a month for unlimited filtered water refills.  However, that's where the goodness stops.  I'm not sure what happened when Whirlpool upgraded from the PUR filters to the EveryDrop versions.  They do NOT make good-tasting water.  I've run over 5 gallons (instructions say to flush at least 4 gallons prior to use) through the filter only to take a sip from a tall glass of cold water to note that it tastes like plastic/metal/contaminant.  Perhaps this is better than water from an old filter, but my tap water from the sink tastes cleaner than what comes out of the filter.  My kids will NOT drink from the fridge anymore.\n\nOVERALL:\nIf you're looking for a filter that screens up to 66 contaminants, and is relatively inexpensive (compared to the old PUR filters), then these are what you're looking for.  If not, and taste/drinkability is important to you, I seriously ask that you reconsider buying the EveryDrop filters.  PUR filters are still out there, but have been discontinued and will probably disappear soon.  I recommend you skip these and get the PUR versions!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2155, "id": 522399, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 274, "len_tokens": 350, "text": "Amazing how this little fuse shuts down the oven.  This was for a Kitchenmaid Double Oven KEBS208SSS00. Every thing, other than heating seemed to work on the oven.  The touch panel, convention fan and checked the heating element and everything seem to be in working condition.  Install was easy.  Some sheetmetal to remove but no big deal.  Hardest part was getting the oven out as it weighs a ton.  May be not a ton.  Make sure you put in the full model number for the part search.  I only put in the kebs208 part and a different fuse came up.  I took the oven out, opened it and that part was no way to be found?  Amazon same day shipping saves the day!\n\nUpdated: 1/12/17\nWell, i fixed the symptom but not cause.  I hear many people that had this issue after the self cleaning cycle and since it uses higher temperatures than normal use, it over heats and the fuse blows.  This is a \"Thermal\" fuse and not electrical.  My issue, happen to be a blower or fan that stopped working.  Hide sight 20/20.  I noticed when on, the lower vent, there was significantly more air flow from the vents than from the top.  Needless to say, without the blower going, the upper oven went out again after one use as it was not able to dump the heat from the within the enclosure.  If the fuse keeps blowing, shine a flashlight in to the vent slot and see whether the fan is moving when oven on.  As you all know, taking the oven out to get to the fuse is no fun.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2156, "id": 490621, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 268, "len_tokens": 356, "text": "My washer is a LG Tromm model no. WM2677HSM. The door gasket part number stamped on the original gasket is 4986ER0004 No. 2...I could not find this replacement part anywhere, and went with this one (4986ER0001C) as it was cross-referenced to the washer on various sites. This substitute part works fine except for one detail. There is a drain formed into the bottom of the gasket which does not apply to WM2677HSM... Warning: It must be plugged! One just needs to plug it either with silicone, or a small shut-off valve clamped to the one inch long drain.\n\nIf you are replacing the gasket and have found that your door hinge is stiff, and doesn't open and close like it used to, the door hinge is probably worn out or corroded and will also cause leaks, and the hinge springs probably have failed. That part number is LG...4775ER2002A. Don't replace it with a used one on Ebay, as it may be half worn out at best, or totally useless at worst.\n\nEdit: If you're going to go through the trouble of replacing the boot gasket, consider replacing the door hinge, as they usually fail simultaneously. Otherwise, you may find yourself doing so a short time later. The hinge is a pressure zinc casting, and when mated to the steel front panel, the two dissimilar metals react as a battery and cause a electrochemical reaction which is known as galvanic corrosion. Eventually the hinge pin, and the mounting screws seize up, contributing further to the boot gasket leaking problem, as the door can longer fully close. It's $30 well-spent...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2157, "id": 135872, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 252, "len_tokens": 304, "text": "I bought this to replace an existing range hood.  The previous hood was installed lower (it was a shelf-type) and was ducted using an odd size ducting and was routed inefficiently.  I found this Broan hood to be very easy to install and duct.  It has a plastic piece to block off the ducting if you want to recirculate the air, but my wife and I really wanted to be able to duct the hood out.  The hood has an option on top and on the back for the duct work.  I used the one on the back and it works great.  Got this in white and it matches our white stove perfectly.  You can barely hear the fan at all on low, and on high it is quieter than others I have owned.  It is effective in moving air out, I have about a 6 foot run of 4\" rigid duct going out through the wall.  The part my wife and I liked best of all though is the lighting.  It has 2 settings, an energy efficient CFL bulb that is nice and bright and a 4 watt incandescent night light.  We use the night light every night and it is perfect.  I got this all for under two hundred bucks and felt like it was a good investment.  I would buy it again and recommend it to anyone looking for a good looking, quiet white hood with option to duct (or not) and you aren't looking to break the bank.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2158, "id": 96142, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 264, "len_tokens": 330, "text": "I read all the threads below before I made my Sentinel purchase of this filter (for less than  the cost of GE Direct). I'm no scientist nor water purity expert, but my guess is that both filters have carbon/charcoal core that are similar and filter the water similarly.\n\nTo remind me to purchase a filter for my GE Fridge, I got a mailer via U.S. Mail from GE that offers \"Water Filter Savings Direct from GE\" with a special discount CODE.  I called the 800#.  After the \"discount\" the pricing is about the same as here on Amazon btw.... (They did offer free shipping; I have Amazon Prime which provided for free shipping).\nFor the above promotion, GE sent me a color 1-page brochure with the \"Water Filter Savings\" special.  A color 1-pager isn't cheap to produce and mass mail.  Also, the associated 1-800# staffed by contact center agents adds a bit more cost.  It's very unlikely that GE would have a Direct Mail campaign for a water filter if there wasn't a a high profit (over priced) item.\n\nWhat I think we have is that the GE Filter is the equivalent of buying Printer Toner or Printer Cartridges at very high price markup from the printer manufacturers.  GE wouldn't be able to derive strong ROI from their direct marketing if the water filter wasn't a very high margin product.\n\nMy guess is Sentinel is providing a like product at lower cost.  (And btw, I'm a marketing guy in Atlanta, never heard of Sentinel before my purchase, not affiliated in any way)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2159, "id": 108168, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 326, "len_tokens": 382, "text": "I bought this kit to convert an old smaller apartment style fridge into a dual tap Kegerator. The idea for now is that I can have two store bought 1/6th barrel kegs running simultaneously and enjoy draft beer at home.  Then down the road, I plan to get into home brewing and this kit will accommodate my own brewed beer either along side a store bought keg or if I get real good both will be home brewed beers (NOTE: I will have to replace the Sankey connections provided in this kit with Corny style connections to run a home brew keg, but this is a simple transition and can be converted back and forth to accommodate my needs easily)\n\nThe items arrived on time as stated, and everything seems to be of very high quality. I priced out a comparable kit at my local home brew shop and it was nearly $70 more than this kit!  So for the money I don't think you can go wrong.\n\nFinally, I did have an issue with the pressure gauge reading improperly.  I called customer service, and they said it might have been damaged during shipping and promptly sent out a replacement part at no additional cost to me.  Excellent customer service, and they also helped answer some questions regarding which PSI to run the kegs at, etc.  I will be swapping out the pressure gauge once my CO2 tank is empty to see if this fixes the problem, but more research has shown that more times than not, a variety of variables such as tank temp at the time of filling, tank placement (inside vs outside fridge), and temperature of its environment will make pressure gauges improperly read, so more than likely that is what is happening vs. a faulty part.\n\nOverall, I am very happy with this kit, the seller was A+ in shipping time and customer service, and I would HIGHLY recommend this kit!  CHEERS!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2160, "id": 509912, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 311, "len_tokens": 365, "text": "We recently moved into a house with this washing machine, and I can't stand it. It is terrible. It gets out of balance easily, almost half the loads, and if you want to wash a pillow? Forget it! We had to throw out two expensive water logged pillows because it would never balance to go into spin cycle no matter how much we tried! It ripped our mattress pad and we had to replace it, and my 1 year old sons clothes are not cleaned we'll at all, with many many pieces off food still stuck on his clothes that I can literally pick off with my fingernail, and even washing a second time, the food is still there and doesn't come off! Poop stains from leaky diapers? Forget it! They don't come off.\n\n We had an LG front loader we had purchased at our old house, and guess what? We are having a new LG washer delivered tomorrow to replace this piece of crap Ecosmart machine! The LG we had did such a great job removing food and poop stains from my children's clothes, I didn't even have to pre treat except for berry stains! Ecosmart? Nope! It won't even get food stains off with pre treating, in fact, they looks exactly like they did before even going in the machine! If the Ecosmart machine does such a terrible job cleaning basic food stains, I shudder to think how poorly it is probably cleaning the scrubs I have to wear to work every day at the hospital, where I come I'm regular contact with some pretty nasty contagious germs that are drug resistant! Not exactly what I want to stay on my clothes in a house with a one year old! Looking forward to getting our LG with the sanitize wash setting so I know my scrubs will be clean!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2161, "id": 189952, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 230, "len_tokens": 386, "text": "If you use a humidifier--especially one that uses a wick--you need this. After my first winter of using my&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Holmes-Smart-Humidifier/dp/B00KL770Z0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Holmes Smart Humidifier</a>, I checked the wick/filter, and it was pretty disgusting. Some form of fungi or bacteria had built up, and one assumes the air blown into the room contained those spores or bacteria. My humidifier was running quite a bit last winter, and I found myself refilling the relatively large reservoirs every few days. This means that a very large volume of air was being moved through the wicks, so that toward the end of winter a lot of bacteria was being distributed in my house.  The addition of a small amount of bacteriostat to each refill of the tanks solves this problem.\n\nBeing summer as of this writing, I find that I need a dehumidifier instead (I use a humidifier during winter and a dehumidifier during the summer in my finished basement). I had been using&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/BestAir-Bacteriostatic-Treatment/dp/B000CMHLMG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">BestAir Bacteriostatic Treatment</a>, which has an almost identical ingredients list on the label. If nothing else is different, however, the price of this Sunbeam brand is the better value.\n\nTo reiterate, in my experience no one should operate an evaporative humidifier for any length of time without a bacteriostat. Doing so can pose a health hazard, especially for those who already have a respiratory problem.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2162, "id": 90018, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 293, "len_tokens": 371, "text": "I have revised this review from a previous version.\n\nI had initially given this unit 1 star, I have revised it up to 4 stars.  I would have given it 5 stars, but the power plug for my unit arrived defective.\n\nI was initially put off by the cheap construction and materials, as well as the kludgy method by which it is powered.  The build quality is cheap, especially considering the price of this unit.  It does not have the metal construction of the Moist-n-aire.  The electronics are simple enough, so given the build quality and the simplicity of the device, I can't say that the price can be justified.  Especially given that they call this their Commercial Series.  The device is powered using a ribbon cable that is connected, on one end, to the box/unit, and on the other to an intermediate connector which allows for the standard DC plug to connect.  Oddest power arrangement I have ever seen.\n\nGiven the build and design quality, I reserved my judgement until I had actually used it.\n\nI plugged the unit in, and it fired up.  Roughly 5 minutes later, it stopped working.  As best as I could tell the DC power plug has stopped working, so I found another 12V 1ma DC power converter and plugged the unit in.  It worked, and has worked ever since.  I have a tall 2,000 cigar cabinet, and maxed out this unit does a really good job of sustaining 70% RH.\n\nBefore I fixed the unit, I ordered a Moist-n-Aire, but I am not rushing to replace this unit with the Moist-n-Aire just yet.  I am going to see how it does in the longer run and keep the solid metal construction Moist-n-Aire as a backup.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2163, "id": 292243, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 299, "len_tokens": 344, "text": "While this fits the LG fridge and does decrease chlorine and bad taste/odor, it does not meet the same standards as the spendy LG filter. This filter meets standard 42 which does remove chlorine and improve the taste and smell of your water. I tested it in my LG fridge, and the water tastes better than it did (as my LG filter had expired). But while LG also meets standard 52, this filter does not. That means that while this filter will improve the aesthetics of your water it will NOT address safety issues as it will not filter heavy metals (such as arsenic among many others), nitrates and nitrites, flouride or cysts from your water. If you trust your water company to provide you healthful water and want flouride in your water, this is a good option for you because it's much cheaper than the LG filter and does improve taste. I just plopped down 60 bucks for two genuine LG replacements as I just have more confidence in the safety of the product. I personally prefer the LG filter which meets both standards and improves the taste and aesthetics of my water and also addresses safety issues like the presence of heavy metals. Just know what you're getting- you're getting a filter that is a lot cheaper than LG but does not perform to the same standards. As one last interesting note, the package indicates this uses renewable coconut shells to act as the filter, which I don't know if that's good or bad.  Although the Aqua Fresh filter does work for improving taste, I'm knocking off four stars because I think the filter implies that it is identical to the LG when it is not because it does not meet standard 52 concerning safety issues.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2164, "id": 87138, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2165, "id": 149634, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 256, "len_tokens": 301, "text": "I installed these under an LG washing machine which has an LG base with a drawer.\n\nThey are hard to install,  bordering on dangerous, since the machine is heavy and stuffed next to a dryer and wall.  It would be nice if a tool to jack up the machine were included.\n\nI don't know how well the pads would work for an LG washer without an LG drawer base.  With the base the washer moves very wildly.  Its vibrations are much worse than without the pad.  The amount of energy put in the floor, concrete in this case, and thus into the surround walls, is less but the washer is subject to much more vibration.  Items on the top of the washer now fall off during its cycle.  This didn't happen previously.  I'm afraid that the washer is being damaged by this much greater level of vibration.  I tried putting bags on water softener salt in the drawer unit but this didn't help and overloads the drawer unit.  I'm going to remove the pads and toss them, the 30-day Amazon window for returns has past.\n\nThe physics of the situation appear to be such that a heavy washer sitting on a lighter, and not very rigid, drawer base will be subject to large vibrations.  The manufacturer should know this, and I believe Amazon should include in the listing on Amazon that the pads are not for use with LG drawer bases, or at least that large vibrations will be the result if the pads are installed.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2166, "id": 393855, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 303, "len_tokens": 357, "text": "This item arrived on time, was pretty easy to instal (2 screws and a clip)..... and its SO quiet!!!! I purchased the fridge itself brand new in fall of 2016 and had instant buyers remorse. The incredibly loud noise the ice maker made to break and push the ice into the bin was horrible. You could hear it from every room in the house and at night it would wake us up. I was considering replacing the fridge since all reviews Id seen stated that it was a manufacturer defect and nothing could be done. Well, last month the auger drum in the ice bin broke and I needed to replace that. I figured Id take the opportunity and just see if a replacement ice maker was any better. I asked other customers on amazon prior to buying this if it was still horribly loud to get the ice to flip and some said yes some said no. Im not sure why some said yes though because it is night and day!!! I no longer think about the fridge at all, its exactly as it should be!!! The first time we heard the ice drop after install it was freaking amazing because it was wait, was that the ice falling...?!? It was... and we almost didn't notice!!  Instead of pop, pop.....wait, the ice maker is going again.... pop, pop, pop, pop, pop, crash.... grrrrrr. I hate this appliance! The water fills, the ice freezes, and you hear it drop in the bin.... no more loud incessant popping from the arm trying to melt/flip the ice out. This replacement has quite honestly saved a bit of my sanity and removed all trace of buyers remorse. Dramatic, yes I am but really it has made such a huge difference in our house. Great product!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2167, "id": 394790, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 287, "len_tokens": 350, "text": "LOVE my new Speed Queen 432 !!!\n\nJust received my new Speed Queen and I absolutely love it !!  This is very close to the old type of washers that people like\nmyself use to use for years. Washers were meant to wash and clean clothes in a reasonable time without a lot of bells and whistles IMO.  This machine does exactly that. The normal load is done is 28 min..... AWESOME !!  The clothes come out clean and well wrung out, ready to dry.  It has no locking lids, no automatic draining of water after a few min. if you aren't using it, no electronic panel that is going to go bad, and none of the other issues that the new HE and front loaders have. So many people are getting rid of the front loaders and HE machines because they don't like all the issues that they are having with them. Guess I am just old fashioned....because I want my clothes washed, rinsed and wrung out in a less than half and hour without any guesswork. Have decided that after a year if she is still going strong and doing well, which I'm pretty sure she will be, that I am going to order me another one just like it to have when and if this one goes down or quits, which I am assuming will be many years down the road.  With all the Govt. regulations on water saving, energy saving, the manufacturers will eventually stop making this great machine and I want to have one to do my laundry in my old age the way I WANT TO DO MY LAUNDRY....NOT HOW THE GOVT. WANTS ME TOO !!!  I would say buy it, you won't be sorry !!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2168, "id": 432959, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 276, "len_tokens": 342, "text": "I opted to move to an apartment much cheaper than my previous and it was the first time I found myself without a washer and dryer. So for entire first month, I washed panties by hand in kitchen sink and bought new outfits whenever my clothes became unwearable. So.... there's nothing negative I can say about this portable washing machine.  It's 1000x better than what I've been doing, and it washes far more than just undergarments.\n\nIt's super easy to hook up and get started. The instructions suck and make it seem difficult but YouTube it and watch a video. It requires minimal preparation.\n\nThe hoses are flimsy and cheap and I've seen other people getting crafty with garden hoses and such but it's not necessary. The hose included works. You just need a kitchen or bathroom sink faucet that is narrow. The opening should be an inch in diameter, roughly.\n\nThe main complaint is that it takes forever to fill it up with water (and you have to do it twice for one load--soapy water and clean water).  But you can get a fairly large load of laundry done in one cycle. I did the first load today (as soon as I received it) and I did 2 skirts, 2 pants,  4 shirts, a few pairs of PJs, panties, and socks in one load (about 2 armfuls of clothing).\n\nThe spinner dries it fairly well. It's still damp when you remove the material but it's not dripping or anything. I stick it on a laundry rack and it's dry overnight.\n\nHonestly, it's convenient and easy. Best purchase I've made in a long time!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2169, "id": 568968, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 288, "len_tokens": 340, "text": "I'm actually a return customer having bought this for my previous home as well. If you have a short attention span, you can correctly assume that I like and recommend this product and stop reading here.\n\nNow that all the idiots with short attention spans have left, I'll tell you about the frustration parts. With their short attention spans, they'll never get it to work without duct tape and tears. Ha! Let's all take a moment to laugh at them. Continue reading when you're finished.\n\nSo, the sleeve and the plastic connector fit great, as long as you don't happen to have a 4 inch duct inside of the sleeve. I have yet to get any standard dryer duct or accessory that it will fit properly and fully seat in the plastic. The sleeve will push back and you'll probably be generally frustrated. No worries. As long as you get the sleeve and plastic to mate firmly, it shouldn't slip off of the duct. If your duct is beat up and out of round, your struggles will intensify. I guess you should have been more careful with your duct, huh? That's how we learn.\n\nStruggles aside, once it's on, I generally leave it on and use the collar to disconnect the flexible duct. It could be better executed, but still the best dryer duct product that I've found. Way better than wedging my fat carcass behind a dryer trying to get a hose clamp on or off. I accept this product warts and all.\n\nOnce you've struggled and put it on, please pause a moment to think about those short attention span people and how much worse it was for them. Laugh again if you feel the urge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2170, "id": 43882, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 254, "len_tokens": 309, "text": "I just installed this so I am not sure how it will hold up, but wanted to let buyers know the following:\n\n1.  This glue dries extremely fast.  You need to be ready to work fast as the glue will start to dry (even in the bottle) as soon as you open it. Someone above gave a nice tip to keep the applicator in the bottle between each use.  That helped.  The fast drying quality of the glue has much more positives than negatives. Multiple coats and less mess.\n\n2.  I bought this to repair a few rusted prongs, but once you get started, you will want to go ahead and cap the rest of the un-rusted prongs too.  You should do this as the glue will be unusable due to its fast drying soon after you open it up. I doubt this stuff would still be liquid if I closed it and tried to use again later.  80 caps would be enough to repair one rack if you only put caps on the top prongs.  But if you are like me, I wanted to cap the lower horizontal prongs that had a lot of rust.  That made me fall short on a few upper prongs that showed no sign of rust.\n\n3.  I have a nasty headache after applying this stuff.  Lot's of fumes.  I am sure I will live, but like the instructions say, I would stay away from kids with this stuff.\n\nIf this holds up, I would definitely recommend it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2171, "id": 9141, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 272, "len_tokens": 329, "text": "So I ordered this washer and one of the related dryers 3 weeks ago. The dryer came w/in the first week. The washer just arrived 2 days ago. That's annoying, but that probably had more to do w/ the carrier Fed-Ex than the company I purchased it from. Anyway, I got it all set up and was looking forward to attaching the hose to the faucet and doing my first load then writing a great review. Then I spent over an hour trying to figure out why the adapter would not attach to my faucet and trying to decipher the very sparse instructions and weirdly uninformative diagrams. I don't have a particularly fancy nor rare faucet style but the adapter that comes w/ the washer doesn't even come close to fitting. They're almost exactly the same diameter. One will not fit inside the other. I'm clearly doing something wrong and will have to buy a wrench to see if I can \"remove the aerator\" like the instructions say, but it's annoying that a \"quick start easy connect\" adapter can be such a pain in the butt on a run of the mill faucet. I could see if I had some strange faucet, but it's just basic and run of the mill. Nothing outstanding about it, so you'd think an \"easy fit\" universal adapter would have no problem. I'm writing a review simply to say that while it's probably \"easy\" for 95% of people, it could also not be \"easy\" and if that happens, you're basically out of luck in terms of getting help, b/c the diagrams and troubleshooting tips are completely useless...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2172, "id": 464229, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 304, "len_tokens": 370, "text": "i would give this 0 stars if Amazon would let me. i hated this piece of sh*t from the second i used it. and i hated it the entire 3 years i had to live with it. i had to have a chart next to it to tell me what temp to set if i wanted an actual temp titled \"Sh*tty Little Oven's REAL Temps\". i had to also keep a separate thermometer inside it to be certain i got that temp because it changed what temp it felt like depending on the season. there is no insulation. it doesn't have a broiler that broils. it's more like a heating light at McDonalds. there is no true simmer, it won't go that low. there is no true high on the burners either. the oven will not go below 325. it fell dead 3 hours before i had a Passover seder to serve. i had 14 people arriving in 1 hour and had to have a full ceremonial dinner on the table in 3 hours. my sister-in-law (a dessert baker) referred to it as my Easy-Bake Oven which is not only truly funny but also accurate.\n\nwhy did i buy it in the first place, you may ask? because i have a tiny(!!) house and could only fit one this size in it unless i wanted to do a full remodel. i had a 1940s Roper for 15 years before that which i love love loved. i actually wept when it died. it had been in this house since it was brand new and i never had a moment of complain. (it was only 4 inches larger so it's not like i had a 'full size' stove.)\n\ni am currently in the process of a full kitchen remodel. waiting for the plumber as we speak.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2173, "id": 468420, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 328, "len_tokens": 387, "text": "We had a maytag prior to this washer and were happy with it so We bought a MHWE300VW in January 23 2010, it was making a loud noise that u could hear throughout the house, on january 28 they came out and and said it needed an outer tub and bearing and parts were on backorder and wouldn't have part until 2/7 & then would take 7 days to get to the appliance repair shop. They suggested I call maytag directly. Maytag said if we waited for the part they would extend the warranty 6 months. I was told it was fine to use the washer it would just be loud. So, I still hadn't got the repair on February 28. I had called every few days by then. Finally they said they would replace the unit but that model wasn't available anymore so they sent a MHWE450WW. It was fine at first but still kind of loud but better than the other one so I just let it go. It has given me nothing but trouble. When I called the repair shop he suggested all of these things about how I was doing the laundry, i have been doing laundry for 25 years....and I have 3 kids and a husband, I think I know how to do laundry. For the past couple years it keeps coming up with an error, F21 most of the time and occasionally F22. We have checked everything on it and there is no problem so there should be no reason why the errors come up. If I start it over again it is fine. I thought maybe I was putting too much in so I lightened my loads... Nope! Thought maybe something else was using water at the same time.... Nope. There are no Common multiples as to why this is happening. I'm debating on calling the repair shop or just buying a new one. I will never buy a maytag again", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2174, "id": 49045, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 260, "len_tokens": 307, "text": "I shopped for several different brands and models of beverage centers in this price range and initially bought a Whirpool model from Lowe's. I was very disappointed in the uneven cooling as the unit had the thermostat sensor mounted on the bottom side. This wasn't acceptable and certainly seems a design flaw in the Whirpool. Therefore, the bottom would cool to around 42, but the top was 55 degrees! Be careful as it seems that some of these units are actually better intended for wine coolers than canned drinks since they don't cool as much as a refrigerator. All that seems to differ in some of those units is the type of racks for cans or wine bottles. I returned the Whirpool and got the Haier at Sams Club and can't believe the difference. It's made like a regular compact refrigerator but with more interior space. The thermostat is mechanical rather than digital so it is seems much better. Also the sensor is mounted in the top where it should be. The unit is cooling great and staying around 34-40 degrees fully loaded with it set on 6. The coolest setting is 7. At that temperature, it is safe to use as an extra refrigerator if you don't have many cans. The shelving is also handy with two that have flip tops to allow taller bottle placement. I couldn't be happier with this center. Please note the description below doesn't seem accurate and may be referring to a wine cooler or smaller beverage center. The unit weighs around 77 pounds.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2175, "id": 245375, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 263, "len_tokens": 335, "text": "Update 6-10-16: There is no fixing bad design and bad parts.  Luma would not warranty their crap product.  Ice maker is now in the landfill.\n\nUpdate 2-22-16 : Luma took the ice maker back for repair.  Two weeks after repair the same problem is happening.  Their \"fix\" did not last.  We have contacted them again and are awaiting a response.\n\nUpdate 12-15-15 from 5 to 2 stars:\n\nOvertime the unit is overfilling the lower reservoir.  The sensor will not shut off the valve allowing all of the water from the top to flow into the bottom.  This is happening at a constant rate now and have reached out to Luma for support.  Will update again upon a positive troubleshoot.\n\nPrior Review:\nFinally a portable ice maker that makes sense. It creates perfectly clear ice thanks to the industrial design of always having water move over the cooling elements. It makes ice fast.  It also doesn't drip water onto your counter like others that condensate on the door and when you open and close spew water over the edges.\n\nI dislike freezer made ice, it's design is all wrong for a round glass.  My last portable ice maker, bullet style, finally corroded the wiring from its door condensation issue and wasn't worth the fix.\n\nThis ice melts slower than the bullet. The machine is more quiet and the paddle stop is so much smarter than the temp sensor. No more empty tray because one cube got hung up on the sensor!\n\nIf you are an ice snob looking for professional results get this machine.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2176, "id": 68659, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 248, "len_tokens": 319, "text": "I bought this dishwasher because, stupid me, I was sold by the great commercial, the cute little blue light, the large size, and, the main reason--how quiet it was. It has been a disaster ever since. We get code 01 all the time--just like ALLLLLL the other people who are upset here! Our dishwasher does a HORRIBLE job of cleaning dishes--just like all the other people said. I need to put it on Heavy wash just to barely get things clean. My glasses are always filthy. I wash most things by hand. It isn't quiet anymore (a little over a year old.) It doesn't drain some of the time.  So, here I am, stuck with a horrible dishwasher that doesn't clean, always breaks, doesn't drain, and isn't even quiet anymore. AND, I paid 1200 bucks to get this ridiculous thing!!! I have never been so upset. Our warranty was a year, and we are over a year, so, it is all on our dime now. It is 16 months old--and these problems started right at the one year mark--right when the warranty stopped. Of course. How perfect. I almost feel like they planned it that way--well, of course they couldn't do that, but, if they can charge people enormous amounts of money for such a defective product, then, who knows what else they may have done, right? If, after all of these horrible reviews, you STILL decide to buy this lemon of a machine, then, you're seriously troubled.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2177, "id": 466586, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 253, "len_tokens": 320, "text": "This range has great features, besides it's great Euro design. But that's where the praise stops. It's been a nightmare -- we've had one malfunction after another in the four years we've owned this oven, and Electrolux customer services is the worst of any consumer products company I've dealt with. I will never buy another Electrolux appliance and suggest you don't either!\n\nAfter dozens of attempts to solicit help with the repairs, their customer service people range from clueless to nasty, and couldn't care less about getting it right for the customer -- they just read their script and evade accountability. My oven is a lemon with five big issues to deal with (and I don't use it all that often):\n The first year of ownership, the ovens glass door shattered during the self-clean cycle.\n The next year, the convection bake control stopped working.\n After self-cleaning again, the oven door locked and would not open, so the power relay board needed to be replaced.\n Six months later after another self-cleaning, again the door locked. This time, the authorized repairman reset the thermostat.\n Now there's a boom sound whenever I turn on the broiler, and the repairman said we need to replace two igniters.\n\nRepair costs have been exorbitant, and Electrolux has been extremely difficult to deal with. Understandably, appliances malfunction occasionally, but when this many things go wrong and Electrolux refuses to take responsibility -- the bigger problem is that the company doesn't stand behind their products! DO NOT BUY THIS APPLIANCE.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2178, "id": 371731, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 314, "len_tokens": 356, "text": "I found this to be one of the largest single layered dish racks on the market which was what I required and it's space and looks were quite appealing. However, similar to previous comments, the rust does set in quite quickly. For me it was about 4 months after I had started to use it. As I thought it may have been the way I looked after and used it, I purchased my second one which I took better care of (such as removing dishes as soon as they were dry). To my horror, the rust set in even quicker at just a little over 2 months.\n\nThe cutlery caddy does not drain very well and I find that there is constantly a little puddle of water just around the drainage hole. As a result, wooden utensils cannot be dried in the middle two sections as the ends constantly stay wet. Metal utensils are ok, but they do need to be wiped after removal. Bear in mind, that the water gathered in the middle causes a bit of grime and anything placed in the caddy comes in contact with it. It is hard to scrub off even with a bottle brush because of the size of each section.\n\nThere is always water in the bottom drainage tray that never seems to disappear and even with the back of my dish tray elevated on a 2 inch foam block, the water is still there.\n\nThe 2 knobs holding the cutlery caddy also rust and unfortunately, there is no way to allow them to dry unless you move the caddy to the other side of the rack.\n\nI will definitely not be purchasing my third one and the price I paid would have been equivalent to buying about 10 polycoated ones which would have been a lot cheaper to throw out if any problems occurred.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2179, "id": 218662, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 316, "len_tokens": 357, "text": "I was replacing a uline icemaker and started the search read the reviews and ultimately purchased this icemaker for a beach house.  I intentionally waited thru two holidays periods with extra heavy use and a heat wave.  Here's the deal.  First machine is a little noisy but similar to uline in my opinion.  It does make ice in sheets as other posters say but I sent away for metal scoop a poke or two and problem solved.  I installed with out pump kit as I drain right under house ( only problem was when I first installed it was leaking out the front ) I was very concerned was going to try and level ect see if that would resolve problem I went under house went to push hose back thru hole and when I straightened out water came gushing out my fault when I pushed the unit back the hose created an upward loop preventing draining so don't make my mistake).  Unit cranks ice.  Delivered days before promised would buy another and have had other friends look at it half the price of others out there don't be afraid and think you have to spend more I have tried this a number of ways emptied entire bucket will fill by end of day empty 2/3 is way to go tho as these are not refrigerated unite ( same as Scotsman uline ect) it needs to build up ice to keep unit cold leaving the bottom third in there increases efficiency 5 fold by lunch time machine filled again  invest in some bags and make a few before you go to bed and machine will be topped off again by morning would not hesitate to purchase again legit 50 lb production no bs a little loud but similar to other to uline can't comment on Scotsman and the ice sheets solved with a whack of the ice scoop", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2180, "id": 111695, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 301, "len_tokens": 365, "text": "So I'm a contractor working out of state. I found a roommate to stay with while I'm here. She has one of these machines. I did a load of laundry including my work clothes. I put them in and left not thinking anything of it. I come back when its done and go to put them in the washer....when I noticed the pant leg of one of my work jeans. It was still dirty....like nothing had happened. And I'm just talking about loose dirt. No oil or grease or anything persistent. Just simple loose dirt. Not even close to say actual stains of any kind. All it did was spread it around a bit. Thinking I was an idiot I did the load again.(First time using a higher end machine with no large agitator). But this time I watched the entire wash cycle....\n\nThis thing is horrendous!!! I was dumbfounded as I watched it go through the \"wash cycle\"! I am by no means an engineer but wow....even I can see that this machine is totally inadequate for cleaning. It sprays just enough water to get things wet then does it's \"whirlpool\" action. the clothes just lazily move around....there is zero beating action of any kind. This \"whirlpool\" action can't be nearly adequate enough to get anything clean. I refuse to believe that. and after the second cycle I have all the proof I need. My clothes are still dirty.\n\nThis thing is a piece of trash and I highly advise NO ONE purchase this thing. Get something with a large middle agitator and enough water to actually accomplish something.\n\nI'll see if I can upload a photo of it...\n\nUPDATE: Ok...I have loaded up some pictures so everyone can have visual proof of the inadequacy of this washer", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2181, "id": 436252, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 273, "len_tokens": 316, "text": "We are a family of 6, with two adults and four kids under age of eight.\n\nWe first purchased this ice maker about 5 years ago to sip lime tea the ice in our new Samsoung fridge that just did not keep up with the amount of ice we used each day.\n\nTo our surprise, we absolutely fell in love with this thing. Everyone drank more water and quickly became addicted to chewing this ice.\n\nWe did have to repair that first one about two times, once when the plastic ice turner inside broke and the other when the water despensor broke. Both easy repairs.\n\nThat machine finally gave out after about 4 years. We quickly purchased another in January 2017.\n\nSame as usual till about 3 weeks ago when the machine turned off saying it was filled with ice, even though there was no ice in the machine. I have messed with the sensors and other parts of it, with no success. So after less then a year, this machine broke. We have tried to not have it but everyone in the house misses the machine and the ice it makes.\n\nSo today I gave in and purchased yet another one of these machines. This time, I was happy to spend the extra $20 for the 4-year full warranty Amazon provided.\n\nIf you like ice, then this is the machine for you. Unfortunately, it has a tendency to break in a year or two. So I highly recommend buying the protection plan. Coming from someone who never buys those things, it will be put to use before the 4 years are up.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2182, "id": 217083, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 137, "len_tokens": 322, "text": "....and probably saves Amazon thousand of returns.  The product picture with the outlet diagram should let you know if this is the cord you need for your dryer.\n\nIf you're reading this, you probably just figured out your dry doesn't come with a cord (just kidding....no I'm not).\n\nI bought this cord along with a Whirpool adjustable periscope vent&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-4396011RP-18-to-29-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AACK98/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool 4396011RP 18-to-29-Inch Vent Periscope</a>&nbsp;and a Builders Best dryer offset&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Builders-Best-10162-Dryer-Venting-Offset-Elbow-Wall/dp/B000DZDPHW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Builders Best 10162 Dryer Venting. Offset Elbow, Wall</a>&nbsp;for a tight installation.  Installing this cord is probably the easiest part of whatever your installation ends up being.  I'm using it on a Samsung 9.5 cu. ft. electric dryer (DV56H9100EG) without any issues.  Also, the cord is plenty long if you've got an odd washroom layout or you plan on stacking your units.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2183, "id": 87506, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2184, "id": 568791, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 282, "len_tokens": 310, "text": "Company said this filter would work for my specific brand and model fridge but after a short time after installing, water began to leak under and around our refrigerator and onto the hardwood floor. Since this refrigerator just turned 5 and the only thing we have done differently is to install this generic filter, we bought our regular and much more costly brand name filter, and once installed, all the leaking stopped. I contacted this company for a refund and they responded that water leaking from a filter is a very common problem and I should try putting oil on it and reinserting it. I did not want to further endanger our flooring to see if that might work (having NEVER had a leaking water filter in the history of our home ownership of fridges with water filters) so asked for a refund again. They said they would give us a refund if we returned the items but did not give us an address to return it to and then immediately closed our refund option out for this purchase. Nice.\n\nI am posting this review in the hopes someone thinking of purchasing this will take a good close look at this filter before purchasing. My husband always installs them and I have no idea what they look like so it's my mistake that I trusted this company when they said this filter would work in my brand and model refrigerator. It doesn't. I don't know what refrigerator these generic filters would work in, if any. They only have 1 O ring, as is shown in the picture, and ours has two O rings so compare your filter against this picture before buying.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2185, "id": 358611, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 314, "len_tokens": 363, "text": "My obsession with our refrigerator water filter started several years ago with my son's science project for analyzing water quality.  The water from our refrigerator had the highest bacteria count when even compared against the toilet the dog sometimes drinks from.  We now own a Kenmore refrigerator and I was having the issue with the drinking water flow reducing after a couple months of installing one of the expensive Kenmore filters.  I did some water analysis and saw a high bacteria count.  I cut apart the filter to see what was going on.  The core charcoal filter was wrapped with a thin cotton fiber like filter. This fiber filter was covered with a clear slime.  I believe the slime was reducing the water flow.  I tried one more time with the Kenmore filter and again had the same slime issue.  I considered a conspiracy theory that they put something in the filter to cause the slime to grow after a few months which would force the consumer to replace their filter but I actually think it is just a bad design.  I tried contacting Kenmore about the issue but no response.  After reading reviews for all the generic filters I settled on this Refresh brand.  After 6 months this Refresh filter still had no water flow issue.  I just purchased additional filters and replaced our filter.  I cut the old one open and found instead of a cotton type wrap, they have a very thin perforated plastic wrapping the carbon.  Best of all, no slime.  I had no leaks with this filter.  After discussing with others I had a concern that the pressure difference going through a generic filter compared to the Kenmore could cause issues with the dispensing mechanism but I have not experienced any.  Only warning would be that you may have a warentee issue if a problem arises using this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2186, "id": 87634, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2187, "id": 87322, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2188, "id": 126676, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 262, "len_tokens": 319, "text": "I bought this product after reading both good and mediocre reviews. I figured, eh, it's not super expensive - I'll give it a whirl. SOOOO GLAD I DID! Omg. Volume! Totally gives you that BAM just-walked-out-of-the-salon look.\n\nPersonal facts: I have very thick hair that's somewhere between medium to coarse and it's in a chin length bob.\n\nWhat you need to know before buying: If you think of this as a tool to replace your flat iron and NOT a tool to replace your hair dryer then you will be pleasantly satisfied. I usually towel dry my hair, run some serum through it (Bed Head blow dry lotion) and flip my hair upside down and give it a few minutes of blow time with my hair dryer until it's not quite all the way dry. THEN I bust out the conair inifiniti pro, section my hair into lower level, mid level and upper level and do my thing. It is phenomenal! It does not give me that limp, lifeless look that my flat iron is notorious for.\n\nI read reviews that complained about the drying, the size of the handle, the power of the blow, etc. I feel like it's like complaining about your fridge not also being a dishwasher or giving your smartphone a bad rating because it doesn't also make your coffee. It gives you way more volume than an iron, takes the frustration of using both hands to manage a round brush and a dryer simultaneously, and is incredibly easy to use! Best $30 I've spent in a while.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2189, "id": 508794, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 280, "len_tokens": 341, "text": "Whirlpool is now using undersized compressors with a failure rate and, as such, has reduced their compressor warranty from five years to one year, meaning they do not have stand behind the failures.  Our refrigerator was not yet three years old when it experienced complete compressor failure, and our usual appliance repair company declined to have anything to do with installing new compressor.\n\nI called Whirlpool and explained that I thought I deserved some consideration because the unit was less than three years old.  They refused to budge.  Then I asked for a possible discount on a new Whirlpool unit, and they refused again.\n\nSo I found another reputable appliance repair guy who agreed to do the replacement for $700.  He spent a couple of hours installing the new unit and it failed within 20 minutes.  It turns out that the replacement part is so bad that Whirlpool tried to reduce the warranty on it from one year to a mere ninety days, until uproar from the appliance repair community resulted in the reinstatement of the one year policy.  He told us that he had to replace the compressor on another Whirlpool unit FOUR TIMES because the replacements kept failing as soon as he installed them.\n\nSo he had to order yet another compressor for our Whirlpool and finally got it working.  Fortunately, he didn't charge us for the extra labor.\n\nSo if you just HAVE to have a Whirlpool refrigerator, then buy the overpriced extended warranty (which I never ordinarily do) because you're going to need it.  Better yet, buy a refrigerator from a company that is willing to stand behind its productsthe way Whirlpool did in the past.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2190, "id": 8707, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 310, "len_tokens": 346, "text": "I would absolutely recommend this product for any at home fixer upper. The packaging contains the cable (exactly as descried), a bracket mount (to securely mount the cable outside of the dryer once the plate has been replaced) and an instruction manual.\n\nI watched a youtube video on how to install this product and wrote my own notes. The colors were as described and the cord itself is rather thick. I will say with the dryer I had, the individual cables were rather thick to maneuver within the washer frame itself to screw in. The range of motion is limited unless you intend to strip the coating. I would imagine that task to be tedious as the coating is very thick! (Which I like for basic safety.) But with a little tact I was able to attach the wires safely and securely.\n\nEven if you are unaware of where each color goes instructions were included with the product and explanation of hot and neutral lines are very well notated. I did not have to use the bracket to stabilize the wires outside of the plate because the cable itself is so thick it would not move or bend unless a lot of force is applied to it. Even then there was little to no range of motion, which was very reassuring.\n\nThe whole process took about a little over 35 minutes for me .The majority of the time as taken by removing and replacing the bolts because of the washer I had.\n\nOver all this is an amazing product. True to size and form, with a very safe thick jacketing guaranteeing safety for you, your dryer, and the outlet itself. The coloring was helpful and the instruction manual was spot on with directions for beginners. If you are looking for a good cable I HIGHLY recommend you select this product!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2191, "id": 190935, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 302, "len_tokens": 353, "text": "This was the best cooler I could find in my price range based on other reviews. We use this in our kitchen, in a built in under our microwave. I can't give it 5 stars because\n1) I'm not sold on the light. You either have it on or off. I wish there were a feature that would activate it when the door opens. I'm also not sure about the light color - it's blue, I think if it were clear I wouldn't mind the light being on all the time. That's just my personal preference though.\n2) The motor runs on and off all the time. Like it's circulating the air so there is a steady hum that runs in cycles. If I focus on it - it's annoying. This wasn't inexpensive and it would be nice if it were silent. For the money these build-ins cost I would have expected them the be quieter. I'm a SAHM that spends the majority of my time in my kitchen when my family is off to work or school so it's quiet and the noise is noticeable to me. When everyone is home - their noise drowns out the motor hum.\n\nThe shelves are adjustable - a pain in the butt, but adjustable. Figure out how you want to stock it and stick to that method and you'll never have to adjust the selves again.\nWe use ours for a mix of soda, juice, Monsters and beer. It's where we store 90% of our families daily drinks so it's used often throughout the day. All that's in our regular fridge is milk and water, everything else beverage wise is in this.\nThe drinks are always cold and the circles that are in the shelves allow for a good air flow within the cooler.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2192, "id": 453936, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 313, "len_tokens": 398, "text": "I purchased a  Whirlpool \"cabrio\" washer on 3/27/07.  There was a digital signal that went off F 51.  I called the service and a tech came out, said it was the mother board, this part came the next day.  When he returned he said he needed another part and he would install it on Wed. 8/8.  I was very upset because this is a new machine and they don't know what is wrong.  I called and asked A and E to expidite it on Friday 8/3.  Today I learned that they sent it regular service and it may take 4 to 7 days.  I told them I am going on vacation for a week on Thurs 8/9 and ALL our clothes needed washing.  They suggested I go to the laundramat and get a reinbursement.  I have not been there to wash in 25 years and purchased a washer that was about $800 so I would not have to.\n\nI went online and the complaints about this particular machine are the same.  It is a lemon and they policies are almost that you can not get another one, they will continue to fix it until the warranty has run its course.  I am upset with this service, and will not purchase another washer from Sears again.\nWe really should do a class action law suit as was done with the calypso whirlpool washer.\nNOTE:  in Dec. 2008 the shocks went out on the machine.  I am under the AHS home warranty and thank God!  When the repair man replaced them he showed them to me and said that they were the cheapest made shocks he had ever seen.  He further said that they must have realized their mistake because the replacement part for the machine are sturdy and high quality.  DON'T BUY THIS MACHINE IF YOU WASH A LOT....OR IF YOU WASH AT ALL.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2193, "id": 153345, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 275, "len_tokens": 336, "text": "Whirlpool Ice Door Kit 8201649 NEW 2180205 4388659 purchased 8/29/11 was received sooner than expected. As previous reviewers had mentioned there were no instructions. I found these instructions helpful:\n1. Find the two notches that are at the bottom of the dispenser cover on the left and right side. Pry off the cover with the flat-head screwdriver.{Yes, the front panel should just snap off. If you look under the bottom edge there is often a couple small slots. Put a flat blade screwdriver in the slot and pop the front off.\"\n2. Find and remove the two screws that are used to secure the white switchplate with the screwdriver. Pull the switchplate out of the door and set it aside.\n3. Remove the front cover assembly to access the ice dispenser housing. Locate the ice dispenser lever and take it out of the housing. This will expose the door mechanism assembly.\n4. Press on the torsion spring and take out the door mechanism assembly.\n5. Examine the door mechanism assembly to see if the pin that is used to open and close the ice door is broken. Pull out the broken pin and insert a new pin that is included with the ice-door kit.\n6. Place the door mechanism assembly back in the door and make sure the torsion spring is set into the ice door correctly.\n7. Re-attach the ice dispenser lever and then set the front cover assembly back onto the door. Set the switchplate back in place and secure it with the screws.\n8. Place the dispenser cover back on the door to complete the project.\n\nKit is installed and working well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2194, "id": 136057, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 324, "len_tokens": 392, "text": "My main issue is that the lights, which are plenty bright for me, are a visibly blue LED.  Our apartment has fairly bright lighting, but none is as blue as this.  As for installation, my ceilings are about 11 feet and my contractors told me (before opening the box) that they would certainly need to add chimney.  They did NOT need to add to what was in the box -- although I should add that we asked for the hood to be placed about 6 inches higher than normal since we are tall people.  Also, I was putting in the hood more for its light and visual appeal than exhaust function (we don't do a lot of cooking except breakfast and none of the previous owners had ever put one in).  Hence my disappointment over the ultra-blue light.  For anyone bothered enough by the color of the lights, I finally figured out how to put in warm white leds.  It is definitely not as simple as changing a bulb.  You pop out each light, disconnect the plastic wire connector, and then fully disassemble each light unit.  The main thing you keep from the old lights are the two outermost stainless rims.  I replaced the lighting unit with the \"Lighting EVER 1 Watt LED Downlights, 12 Volt Low Voltage, Recessed Lighting, Warm White\" (sorry I don't know how to do proper links.) The light color is good and it is the right amount of light.  The electric wire connector plugs aren't identical, but the pin alignment is the same, so the plugs fit. You do have to push them together tightly (their stay clips aren't aligned).  The original light unit was sealed with glass, while the one I've put in now will have gaps because of the swivel/directional design.  So if you do a lot of serious cooking, changing to these other lights will let grease get into the inside of the hood.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2195, "id": 552558, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 293, "len_tokens": 374, "text": "We're on our THIRD attempt at compact laundry that works for our condo.  We first bought the LG combo washer/dryer.  We must have gotten a lemon--it was really a disaster in terms of vibration.  I thought it was going to take out the whole floor!  The thing was terrifying, even though we had the service department come out to level it twice (and yes, the shipping bolts were removed!) The drying cycle also took an incredibly long time, and it smelled as if our clothes were getting cooked.  In reviews people seem to either love or hate this machine.\n\nWe replaced this with a stackable compact Bosch set, which is great, but still has some vibration.  It's WORLDS, even whole UNIVERSES better than the LG combo, but it's noticable to my downstairs neighbor.  With some loads the pans hanging from her ceiling and the paintings on her wall vibrate, and we can't figure out which load-type will cause it.  You should expect that the dryer will off-load heat into the space, but that was true of the LG as well.  I think that's the case with all non-vented condenser dryers.  The Bosch set has seemed well-made, and were it not for the slight vibration bothering our neighbor, would suit our needs perfectly as a family of 3.\n\nWe're having the Electrolux compact stackable set installed this weekend, primarily because it has a second floor noise and vibration guarantee.  I was surprised to see that it's rated the same as the Bosch set in terms of vibration by CR, though.  If it has the same level of vibration as the Bosch set, it's going back for sure.  But if it's better, out of consideration for our neighbor, we'll keep it and eat the cost.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2196, "id": 430551, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 272, "len_tokens": 321, "text": "This is my first foray into counter top ice makers.  I purchased this one for my office and didn't know quite what to expect.  The nearest source of ice is quite a hike and I prefer cold drinks with ice instead of the coffee that is brewed in our outer office.  After unpacking, this was \"plug and play\" -- wipe it down with a damp cloth, fill the resevoir  with the provided funnel (nice touch), and plug it in.  It is whisper quiet and made the first batch of small cubes (you can choose either small or large cubes) in about 15 minutes.  It continued to produce another batch about every 15 minutes.  Once the ice storage bin is full, a light comes on and it stops producing more ice until some has been used or emptied.\n\nOne of the unique features of this counter top ice maker as opposed to others I considered is the dispenser on the front.  Most others simply store the ice in the bin and you must use a scoop to put it in your beverages.  This one dispenses directly into the glass or cup.  This feature is also why I'm rating it four stars instead of five.  I've found that it sometimes spits ice out when you are nowhere near the machine or continues dropping cubes even when the glass or container you are filling is removed from the switch.  It's not a fatal flaw but a definite quirk that can be annoying and messy.\n\nI did purchase this item at a discount in exchange for an honest, unbiased review of my experiences with the product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2197, "id": 518036, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 270, "len_tokens": 309, "text": "Installation of this part is easy if you carefully have removed the old one or have the schematic from the dryer. The way you wire it up depends on the options your dryer has so be sure to pay attention to wire position when you remove the old timer.\n\nIt is an OEM part that works on many models of Whirlpool made dryers.\n\nWhat I did was to get the old timer to limp along for a bit longer after it had initially failed.\n\nTo disassemble the old timer:\n\n1 Mark the position of the shaft where it comes out of the metal plate.\n\n2 Remove the two Phillips screws holding the front metal plate to the plastic box. (No need to remove the motor.)\n\n3 GENTLY grab the shaft and slowly pull on the shaft while giving it some wiggle and twist action. Pull too hard and you will mangle the works.\n\n4 You can usually see that one set of contacts have burned up. (The usual suspect are the contacts nearest the motor.)\n\n5  Clean the bad contacts a bit with a small file or sand paper on a popsicle stick. Q-tips help.\n\nReassembly requires you to gently wiggle as you coax the cams past the four sets of contacts.  When the metal plate sits flush against the plastic box you can reinstall the screws.\n\nThis is only a short term fix, but it might give you a couple of weeks so you don't have to lug laundry to the laundromat or have a huge pile of laundry to deal with while you wait for the new one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2198, "id": 87826, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2199, "id": 113190, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 256, "len_tokens": 313, "text": "I am an avid home canner.  I use a giant 22 quart pressure canner that is heavy on it's own.  I have an additional rack so that I can stack jars inside the canner and fill it completely before processing.  This means a lot of weight combined with the weight of the canner, 2 cases of heavy pint size jars filled with whatever it is that I am making.  I have used this canning element pretty much non-stop for 2 full canning seasons without fail.  It heats up quickly, and it supports the weight of the pressure canner.  The element is raised nice and high for air circulation and my store does not get hot surrounding it, especially after canning items like fish and chicken with long processing times.  It was worth every single penny I spent on this unit and I am sure it will carry us through many more canning seasons.  I grow and can a bulk of our groceries (about 80%) of everything we eat.  That might give you an indication of just how much use this gets during canning season.  It processes a lot of loads, and not just a hobbiest canner that does a load here and there.  But, load after load after load to keep us eating through the winter.  It has kept my stove from becoming damaged due to the weight of canner loads and is worth it's weight in gold.  If you are a serious canner, this is the go to element that does not break the bank.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2200, "id": 53305, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 272, "len_tokens": 319, "text": "I hired two contractors to installed the range hood in two weekend. After the first guy installed, I thought my house wouldn't have the cooking smell any more. But I was wrong, there's no any difference from before when I just had a microwave style range hood. So I thought the first guy didn't install correctly, and then I hired the second one. He took the hood off and tried to install it by following the instruction on the menu. But, we searched from page one to the end, there's no instruction in installing a rear venting range hood even though the product is designed that capability. And there's no any accessory come with it. Finally the second guy installed with his own way. Now the range hood is working with a bad performance. The cooking smell still strongly exists. If you did research on Zephyr's web site and watch the image or video, please don't believe you'll have the same thing. You may pay $300 less to buy a better range hood. Good luck!\n\nThe vendor is so difficult to contact with. You couldn't find their information anywhere. I have to go to \"Ask Owner\" on the product page to ask about the shipping information. This shopping experience is like a mystery. Once I put order to Amazon, I couldn't know anything about it. I kept asking tracking information, but I couldn't be able to get it until waited for many days a truck stopped in front of my house and delivered the stuff. The vendor sent me email, but the email address is an encrypted Amazon email address. Be careful!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2201, "id": 192180, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 211, "len_tokens": 337, "text": "The WaterSentinel is only rated to NSF/ANSI Standards 42, which is only aesthetic effects or non-health-related contaminants (such as chlorine, taste and odor, and particulates).\n\nThe Samsung DA29-00020B cartridge is tested and certified by NSF International to meet or exceed NSF/ANSI Standards 42 & 53. while the WaterSentinel is only rated to NSF/ANSI Standards 42, which is only Aesthetic Effects. It does not remove any heavy metals at all which the Samsung does.\n\nThe commonly tested chemical reduction claims for products seeking certification to NSF/ANSI Standard 53 are: heavy metals (arsenic, cadmium, chromium, copper, lead, mercury and selenium), inorganics (fluoride and nitrate plus nitrite) and volatile organic chemicals (chloroform surrogate as well as individual organic chemicals).\n\nStandard 42 covers aesthetic (taste and odor) claims, while Standard 53 addresses health-related claims, this is important to understand if you are trying to decide on using the watersentinel to replace your Samsung filter.\n\nPersonally, my health is worth more than the difference in price between these filters.\n\nThe Samsung filter removes the following:\n\nRemoves 97.4% of Chlorine\n98% of Particulates (Class I)\n99.3% of Lead at pH 6.5\n99.3% of Lead at pH 8.5\n94.6% of Atrazine\n96.7% of Benzene\n99% of Asbestos\n99.99% of Cysts\n99% of Lindane\n99.1% of Turbidity", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2202, "id": 459079, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 283, "len_tokens": 344, "text": "Whirlpool is now using undersized compressors with an excessively high failure rate and, as such, has reduced their compressor warranty from five years to one year, meaning they do not have stand behind the failures.  Our refrigerator was not yet three years old when it experienced complete compressor failure, and our usual appliance repair company declined to have anything to do with installing a new compressor.\n\nI called Whirlpool and explained that I thought I deserved some consideration because the unit was less than three years old.  They refused to budge.  Then I asked for a possible discount on a new Whirlpool unit, and they refused again.\n\nSo I found another reputable appliance repair guy who agreed to do the replacement for $700.  He spent a couple of hours installing the new unit and it failed within 20 minutes.  It turns out that the replacement part is so bad that Whirlpool tried to reduce the warranty on it from one year to a mere ninety days, until uproar from the appliance repair community resulted in the reinstatement of the one year policy.  He told us that he had to replace the compressor on another Whirlpool unit FOUR TIMES because the replacements kept failing as soon as he installed them.\n\nSo he had to order yet another compressor for our Whirlpool and finally got it working.  Fortunately, he didn't charge us for the extra labor.\n\nSo if you just HAVE to have a Whirlpool refrigerator, then buy the overpriced extended warranty (which I never ordinarily do) because you're going to need it.  Better yet, buy a refrigerator from a company that is willing to stand behind its productsthe way Whirlpool did in the past.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2203, "id": 70818, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 327, "len_tokens": 386, "text": "I wanted to buy a nice refrig that would last a while and so splurged and dropped about $2200.\nStainless was pretty but no magnets stick to front as expected I guess but they do stick on the side.\nFor a few months I loved getting the nice cold filtered water and the LED light was useful at night.\nAlmost no ice would come out and it must hold 2-3 small glasses total so if you use ice, that's useless.\nI don't love that the expensive filter must be replaced every month or so.\n\nAfter maybe four to six months, I started getting the ice maker making really loud popping/clicking noise.\nNot a minor sound, it was loud enough to wake me up from the back room going off every few minutes.\n bam! bam!bam!  Then no ice came out at all.\nThen I get a $300 repair and had to replace the whole ice maker.\nI found that the original and replacement ice makers are a Samsung when you look in the case but GE just slaps their logo on the refrig outside.  Of course I haven't gotten to use the ice maker because soon after, the hose popped a leak and sprayed water all over the wall and I had to cut off the water.\n\nNow after 1 year I'm starting to hear a dripping and a humm/click which worries me that it will start breaking down already.\nIf this was a $600 refrig I might expect some of this but I paid more to get a quality product but apparently GE just gets more profit, it doesn't go into the product.  This along with similar chintzy annoying issues on an expensive GE oven have turned me off of GE products forever and also Samsung since I think this must actually be Samsung with just a GE label on it.  Maybe after 5+ years or so I might expect minor issues but it's still 'new'.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2204, "id": 468792, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 263, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The depth dimension is for a full size fridge WITHOUT THE DOORS.  If you use the Amazon search feature for depth it will be wrong when it arrives.  And then you'll have to go thru the gruesome experience of returning this item because you measured the wall and the counter and thought 28.9 was great however, adding on the doors and handles it'll be 36\"+.  Would you like to donate your time?  How about a part time job searching for a refund where you're lucky to get back the money you spent not only on the fridge but the shipping company that charges you twice as much as to deliver as to return it.  Good fun that!  Talking to Amazon.com reps daily, at a minimum, explaining the situation again and again and again (maybe one too many agains but you get the point!)  8 weeks of having this thing taking up space in my garage vs fitting in the kitchen was a surreal experience.  Hint/tip: don't order this in winter cos you'll have to put your car in the driveway; did think about shoveling around the fridge instead but feared Amazon wouldn't take it back.  Eventually Amazon refunded me the full purchase price and the shipping cost I paid out of pocket to deliver it back to the company that changed their name.  When that was complete I had a lovely time purchasing the fridge I wanted from Home Depot and the entire process was easy and have been enjoying it.  The correct model number for this size depth is:  EI23BC30KW.  Best regards", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2205, "id": 467628, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 291, "len_tokens": 341, "text": "Great hood vent. I remodel kitchens for work and have installed numerous hood vents from really cheap to high end. I consider this one mid to high end leaning more towards the high side. This one is for my own house and I did extensive research to find the right design. I could not find any reviews on this product but figured for the price it had to be well built.\n\nHere is what I like about it:\n\n-Well-designed installation bracket and hardware. Four step install although I gave all the steps a dry run first.\n-Three prong plug option(comes with plug in cord from factory) for easy wiring. Don't forget to have an outlet ready to install inside housing, which there IS room for.\n-Four fan speeds are different enough from each other to make them all useful.\n-Fan is very quiet on low speed and not obnoxious on high speed.\n-Fan is effective without glass hood option!\n-6\" ducting for easier and more versatile install(better to enlarge ducting than to reduce it)\n-Very stiff and sturdy when installed. When I push the buttons it doesn't \"give\"\n\nWhat I don't like:\n-The slot for the glass panel option has a seam which light shines through even when the thumb screws are tightened all the way. That said, easy access to all inner workings by removal of vent filter makes it easy to put tape over seam from the inside. Hardly a negative because it would be so easy to add the glass panel at a later date if desired because of where the seam is.\n\n-Instructions for install are sparsely written in the English form.\n\nOverall, this unit is well designed, is simple to operate and is beautiful.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2206, "id": 38982, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 286, "len_tokens": 361, "text": "After reading the older reviews of this product, I was a little more than leary to buy this item.  I then noticed a trend that the more recent posts had nothing but positives to say about this kegerator.  I realized that what ever early problems there were with this product, must have been corrected. I must have been a little intoxicated when I ordered it, because I thought that it was a double tap kegerator (my only disappointment was that it was a single, but that was my own fault).  After spending a little more to order a double tap tower, and fittings to convert it to a homebrew kegerator; I love this thing.  I am still in the process of brewing two batches to put in the kegerator, so I was in no hurry to plug it in.  I waited almost 2 weeks before plugging it in.  In less than half an hour, set on max, the temp inside was already at 34 degrees. After turning it down a little bit, and going out to dinner, 2 hours later it was at 28 degrees.  I have to continuesly turn it down because it is too cold (definetly not a problem).  There is a huge rubber strap that securely holds the 2.5# CO2 tank securely in place.  Anybody that complains about too foamy beer, has to realize that is a problem with almost all kegerators, until you figure out how to set the CO2 properly.  The regulator is a dual gage regulator now.  This is definitely a great buy, now.  I love this kegerator, and even after the mods I did to it, it's still a lot cheaper than anything else you can buy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2207, "id": 283637, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 294, "len_tokens": 362, "text": "I have only had this product for a little over a month and it stopped working. When plugged in, it makes a clicking noise, vibrates, and does not make ice. I couldn't send this back to Amazon because it began after the 30 day window. I called the warranty company (Curtis International) and was overjoyed by explaining the problem to someone with a very strong accent. He told me he would first like me to try a few steps to reset the ice maker. I tried and it is still making the noise. I called back and spoke to the same person. He explained to me that in order to have this looked at and/or replaced, I would have to give him my credit card information so that I could give him a $7 insurance payment. Reluctantly I did, however, I don't feel like I should pay anything to have this replaced and/or repaired. Then I found out (after I gave him $7) that I will also be paying to send it back. Not only that, I really didn't feel comfortable giving the man my information. I am worried that this may all be a scam and I will be watching my debit card for unusual activity. I would not suggest this product to anyone.\n\nUpdate 8/29/16: I sent this back for the warranty team to look at this. I spent $21.62 in shipping to ship it back to the company. So, in total, this 'warranty' work has cost me $28.62 (including the $7 I paid them yesterday). This ice maker cost me $119.00 and I'm really going out on a limb and hoping I shouldn't have just bought a new one. Still waiting on a call back from Amazon that I've requested.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2208, "id": 456026, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 245, "len_tokens": 329, "text": "For all the important things, this stove/oven works very well.  Heats up quickly, cooks evenly, looks good and seems well made.  It also has a very nice and bright oven light.  The quirks that made me downrate it one star are as follows:\n\n1) The stainless rim that surrounds the cooktop looks nice and is sturdy, but is raised 1/8\" above the cooktop level, making it annoyingly hard to sponge up all the debris that seems to accumulate on the stovetop.\n2) There is only one large burner (the 3-way adjustable one) -- 2 seems a minimum a stovetop should have.\n3) The control adjusting the 3-way burner is hard to set very precisely since the control knob can travel less than 1/3 of the circumference for each of the 3 burner size options.  Instead of 9 marked settings (1->9) as is typical, on this burner, you have numbered marks at 1 and 9, and 3 unnumbered marks in between.  In general, I think a separate switch allowing you to select the burner size is a better design.\n4) Sometimes the off button is hard to get to activate.  All the other controls work easily.\n5) The designers felt it necessary to spend design cycles on building in a Sabbath setting.  You've got to be kidding me.\n\nAs another buyer noted, the display light is red, not blue/green as displayed on Amazon's picture.  We'd most likely buy again as the good features outweigh the annoyances.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2209, "id": 108331, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 289, "len_tokens": 351, "text": "Bought this unit in Spring 2010 when I did a complete kitchen remodel to make the kitchen of my dreams.  Have had nothing but trouble with the Ice Maker from the first month after it was installed.  To date, ice maker system totally replaced 3 times, with replacements of other individual parts of the ice maker system on the other service calls.  After each repair, the unit works FOR A WHILE, and then it craps out again, and I am back to buying ice at the local convenience store while waiting for yet another service call.  I even took out extended warranty assuming the problems would continue (best $$ sent on this unit so far).  So far 7 service calls and the icemaker just died again.  Am TOTALLY disgusted with this product and am now dealing with the supply co. I bought it from who is dealing with Bosch trying to get me some sort of pro-rated rebate or other satisfaction.  I WILL NOT accept a new BOSCH refrig which is what the supplier suggested because the problem is not the refrig, it's the ice maker system/design.  If I have to, I will haul this piece of crap to the curb, park a big LEMON sign on it, and let the trash folks haul it away and use my old 20 yr old amana backup refrig until I replace it.  All I can say is BUYER BEWARE -- the ice maker system has significant / serious design flaws!!\nI finally got the seller to take the refrig back based on the multiple problems with the  ice maker and got a refund.  Bought a non-Bosch refrig.  Do not recommend buying this model until they fix design of ice maker.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2210, "id": 98514, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 276, "len_tokens": 330, "text": "I want to start out by saying that I never write reviews -but, this needed to be written so that I have the piece of mind of knowing that if I have prevented even one person from buying this piece of crap-I will feel a little better about the situation.  I bought this dishwasher about a year and a half ago.  I am a simple person and I explained to the salesman that I didn't need a fancy dishwasher-just one that washes and dries the dishes.  I was told this would fit the bill because it did not have the meaningless features of the higher price models-while not compromising on the ability to clean and dry the dishes.  From the day it was installed-it has been a nightmare.  After about a month-there was a foul odor coming from the dishwasher. I pulled the dishwasher out-and discovered that it had slowly been leaking dirty water and food under the unit-repairman came and replaced hose.  This entire process has been repeated 2 more times in the last year.  Then, about a month ago, the dishwasher started sounding like it was constantly running-I had repairman come and he told me that it was either the control panel or the motor itself-replacing either would cost about 200 each.  My husband and I decided to scrap this and buy another unit-after only 18 months.  The repairman and I removed the unit and I cannot even begin to describe to you the amount of damage this machine has done to the floor and the inside of the cabinets that are adjacent to it.  I will never, EVER buy a frigidaire product again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2211, "id": 56908, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 287, "len_tokens": 331, "text": "So I bought this from a different vendor and would like to assist my friends on Amazon. I bought a new house and the next day walked out side to do something and noticed the dryer exhaust was barely venting (older house). Que up a trip to the store and I found this thing. I was so excited about saving money I brought it home and slammed it into the dryer exhaust without reading the directions. Five minutes later I was cussing for hours because one of the rods untwisted and it was stuck so far in my dryer exhaust, I couldn't reach it to get it out and it completely clogged the vent.\n\nAfter hours of contemplation, I finally devised the perfect plan. I could see the end of a rod with a flashlight. I attempted to slide another rod to that and screw it in, this didn't work due to the rods being flexible. I then took a bolt and taped it to one of the lint eater rods and finally got it pulled out. After removing it, I decided to actually clean the vent. I read the instructions and followed them to a tee and bam. Lint went flying everywhere out the exhaust and now the dryer works like a charm.\n\nSo here is a few pro tips. 1) Read the directions! Don't be like a caveman as I was. 2) if your exhaust is long there is an extension kit available. 3) I highly suggest you tape the connections with duct tape so they don't unravel by accident. 4) Never put the drill in reverse.\n\nFollow these tips and your experience should be just as good as the second part of mine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2212, "id": 291186, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 281, "len_tokens": 330, "text": "After a month of use (5-6 loads) it's working very well. Shipping was quick as I ordered it on a Friday and it arrived the following Wednesday. I bought this model because it has one of the largest capacities for a portable washer. Also, the mostly favorable reviews made me think that this was the best choice. I hooked it up to the kitchen sink using the quick connector that is supplied with the unit. By hooking it up directly to the faucet I can control the temperature of the water from there, but I only wash with cold water anyway. There are a couple of small wheels on the back to move it around, but I purchased a $15 furniture dolley from Harbor Freight that makes it much easier to move around. You have your choice of 3 wash sizes (small, medium or large). I always use large because I try to maximize my loads. A large cycle will wash 2 khaki pants, 2 collared shirts and about a week of socks/underwear for 1 person. You can probably do more than that, but I don't want to overload it. The wash cycle lasts around 40 minutes and the clothes come out pretty clean. There are a lot of moving parts when it agitates, so hopefully that will not cause it to prematurely break down. Overall I'm happy with the performance, ease of use and portability of the machine. If it gives me several years of good service, I will be extremely happy with my purchase. I also purchased the largest capacity Panda dryer and so far I'm happy with it too. I will write a separate review for that.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2213, "id": 85462, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 243, "len_tokens": 365, "text": "The long and short of this - is that I've bought many EAFCBF replacement air filters directly from Electrolux for my French Door Bottom Freezer Wave-Touch Pure Advantage Electrolux refrigerator.  The item that arrived from Amazon was in the right box (same box that comes from Electrolux), but the filter inside was NOT the correct filter.  It said \"Electrolux\" on it, but it was clearly a different filter.  Others have claimed the same thing.  I should have listened to them.  The correct filter should say \"Pure Advantage\" on it AND have a perforated punch out on both sides of the cardboard filter, thus exposing the charcoal on both sides.  The one I received from amazon.com did not say \"Pure Advantage\" on the actual filter, nor did it have a perforated punch out on both sides, but instead, one side was solid.  I have no idea if Amazon's replacement filter would work, but I decided to return it and pay more directly from Electrolux.  There was NO option for a refund on the returns page, even though I stated it was a wrong item.  So I went through the process to have customer service call me directly, and they issued a return shipping label AND a refund.  I love amazon.com and buy many, many things from them.  This is only the second time I've had a problem.  Thanks to Amazon for their great customer service!&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Electrolux-EAFCBF-Replacement-Air-Filter/dp/B001ICQSH8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Electrolux EAFCBF Replacement Air Filter</a>", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2214, "id": 497527, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 321, "len_tokens": 386, "text": "I had the previous version of this dryer and I loved it.  It had all the features I needed and worked great until it broke shortly after the year long warranty expired.\n\nThe dryer developed a crack and a golf ball sized hole in the drum.  We weren't abusing the dryer, we used it daily for a family of 3 with reasonable sized loads.  I was told to repair it would cost $220 for the drum itself and I never got around to asking how much the serviceman would charge to install it.  I took a small piece of the drum off that was hanging next to the hole and it was made of a very, very thin metal (stainless?) covered by paint on both sides.  It's not surprising it broke being as thin as it is.  If Amana sold a heavier duty drum (I called Amana and they don't) I would have considered repairing it, but I'm not ready to fork over that kind of money every few years as drums crack and break.\n\nI'm very disappointed in Amana's quality.  I loved the dryer, but was expecting to get more than 2 years of use out of it.  The dryer it replaced was my wife's grandmothers and that one was built in the 1950s and still going strong when we replaced it for the energy efficiency.\n\nMy recommendation: take a good look at the warranties of any dryer you're going to purchase.  If the company isn't willing to back up their work with more than a one year limited warranty, there's probably a reason why.\n\nEdited to add: I did a little research found that Speed Queen is one company makes washers and dryers with a great warranty, which shows they stand behind their products. They have a LIFETIME warranty on their washer and dryer drums, not a one year warranty like Amana and many other brands I looked at.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2215, "id": 17747, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 260, "len_tokens": 339, "text": "Quite frankly addressing the main complaints about the Broan QT230:\n\nYes, it's flimsy... right out of the box. If you install it properly, it is as rigid/solid as your wall and cabinets surrounding it!!\n\nYes, it's not completely silent. The motor hums... Quietly. Anything with a motor that moves a fan that moves air will create some noise. This range hood makes the noise that Broan says it will: 1 sone to 4.5 sones, low fan to high fan.  (For those hearing more than that, check your duct work: loose duct work or gaps in the duct work will cause rattling and whistling, increasing the noise level. Also, if your fan is ducted out, make sure the included plastic strip is installed blocking the room duct. It goes directly behind the decorative logo on the front of the range hood.) This range hood is much quieter than the microwave/hood we replaced!\n\nInstallation is simple and straight-forward. Along with the removal of the microwave/hood unit we had and the adaptations we needed to make, it took my husband and I about 90 minutes to install it.\n\nI like this range hood uses incandescent bulbs. I dislike halogen and fluorescent lighting without even considering the higher prices. The 2 40W A15 appliance bulbs this unit uses ran me $2.50 total. They are positioned at the front, in the middle, and light up the entire stove surface very well.\n\nBottomline:\nIt is a well-priced, easily installed, solid range hood that looks nice and does a great job. Can't really ask for much more.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2216, "id": 442038, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 274, "len_tokens": 327, "text": "Not sure how you can love (5 star) a water filter but it is working and not leaking , knock on wood. The main difference from comparing this to the Samsung is the Samsung has 2 rubber gaskets on the nipple part of the filter and this has only 1. I guess as long as the 1 gasket on this is securely in place and seals perfectly there shouldn't be a problem. However, what keeps water or any fluid from leaking when rubber gaskets are used in anything from filters to cars engines, is the actual gasket. So if the Samsung has 2 gaskets in a row and this has 1, clearly the Samsung is the safest bet. I can't figure out why they wouldn't use the same amount of gaskets since the cost of a small O ring gasket couldn't possibly exceed 1 cent is ludicrous. You can see when they are side by side that the only clear and obvious difference from the outside is the O rings or ring, why not just add the second one for safe keeping?. I guess there has to be some kind of logic but not sure if it's USA logic/Japanese logic/Korean logic orrrr Chinese logic. Probably the latter I would bet about %99. The point is, 2 gaskets are better then one but $10 is significantly less then $40 or $50 so I'll see how this works and as long as the single O ring keeps water in and not out then I guess this is a good buy. I'll follow up at a later time. It's been a few weeks now. Crossing my fingers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2217, "id": 108306, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 257, "len_tokens": 321, "text": "We have had this fridg for a month now and we love it with the exception of two things:\n\nThe ice maker CAN NOT KEEP UP with a weekend full of iced down drinks.  The receptable holder is very small and after a morning of cokes and dp's it's empty!  And it takes forever to fill up again.  A real flaw for a product that costs this much.\n\nAlso, the alarm is a bit of a pain. It seems to go off in a hap-hazzard mode.  Sometimes it waits the full minute when the door is open to chime.  Other times you can just walk into the room and open the door to get out butter and it goes off.  I find that annoying actually.\n\nOtherwise, it's definitely state of the art.  Lots of room and adjustable shelves and it's very classy looking and would jazz up any kitchen.  We didn't need a new fridg, we are just upgrading and we kept our old Amana as well, for the garage.  We are going to need the ice from that ice maker, I assure you.  But I definitely would recommend buying this product if you really need the \"french door\" type of fridg to make it work.  So much more \"high end\" than most of the national brands, and much better looking, inside and out.  We also purchased their induction cooktop, which we hope we live long enough to have delivered NOT broken.  So far we have returned three due to the glass being broken when in shipping!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2218, "id": 481843, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 303, "len_tokens": 355, "text": "I switched to Miele from a GE.  That one lasted for twenty something years without repairs and I have heard that this one is likely to last that long, too.  I know I could have been happy with any of them, but decided to try out the European model, just for kicks.\n\nI love how clean everything is.  It might be the rinse aid and salt they have you add, but everything is so clean and I love it.\n\nI love the flexible silverware tray versus the basket from my old dishwasher.\n\nI love how quiet it is.\n\nI love how energy efficient it is.\n\nI am surprised at how well it dries without a heated dry feature.  There are pools in things with bigger indentations (I left something upside down and it was full of water, but everything else was dry.)  It opens automatically is why it does dry pretty well.\n\nI like the colored tabs where things move.\n\nAll of those are strong positives.\n\nIt takes about 30 minutes longer on normal cycle than my old dishwasher, but there are shorter cycles if I have a lightly soiled load.  (It doesn't have heated dry, so using it longer doesn't take more energy)\n\nI haven't had any issues at all with the filter yet and will only examine it when I add salt, which won't be often, because my water is fairly soft.\n\nThe only real negative is that it is more expensive, and I knock it down one star for that, but I wanted something that will last twenty years and this is still designed that way.  I know that there are lemons with all brands, but I chose this one, because there is a greater likelihood that I won't have to replace it for twenty years than with other brands.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2219, "id": 27906, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 309, "len_tokens": 362, "text": "This is an interesting invention. I like it so far, only reason for not a solid 5 stars is that it's difficult to get the top to snap on without fear of breaking the thing. I got this because the flapper on the outside of the house from the dryer vent was broke, and having a wood stove inside, that was a prime area for it to be sucking in winter air into the house, the laundry room would always be ~10 degrees cooler. Not anymore, this pumps the heat from the dryer back into the house. Come summertime, I'll hook it back up for it to blow outside. Just be careful, usually we have the laundry room door closed because of the noise, and doing that caused the walls to sweat from all the moisture of the clothes drying, have your furnace fan running or just a small fan going to blow the excess moisture out. With this indoor dryer vent, it's a win-win. No more cold drafts coming back in, or throwing hot air outside, and it's keeping the dry raw air from the wood stove at a nice humidity level, so we don't have to run the humidifier, drying our clothes now does the trick! Plus, now it smells like fresh clothes in the house too. If you really wanted, you could make an even a better contraption out of a 5 gallon bucket and some plumbing adapters, which I would think help catch all the dryer lint, this ProFlex is on the small side, so make sure it's half full of water, because even having water in it, it doesn't catch all of the dryer lint, only the majority of it. Overall, I'm happy I got this, took 5 minutes to install and there are more benefits to this than I thought there would be.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2220, "id": 431194, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 290, "len_tokens": 338, "text": "I read the instructions carefully and left the machine sitting out and upright on a flat surface with the lid open for at least 2 hours (overnight to be exact). I filled the water to the proper level. I followed the instructions to turn the machine on and select cube size. The water was pulled up to the top. The machine ran and the fan blew. About 10 minutes later the water poured into the ice tray and back into the bottom. More water was pulled to the top, repeat, repeat for about an hour before I gave up. The inside is hot so no ice is going to be made.  I've requested a UPS pickup to come get this thing for return. There is nothing in the troubleshooting guide for this problem. The customer service is closed. It's really too bad. I was excited about having ice at the ready.\n\nThe instructions do say if the interior isn't cooling I can change the coolant or something to that effect. Why in the world would I pay more money to buy coolant and make a repair on a brand new item I haven't had in my possession for 24 hours? Returns on trash items are free.\n\nCustomer service email tells me call the number which I've done 3 times. Message says they're closed. Email person says they open at 8 in New York. At 8:30 message still says they're closed. Sounds like a stall tactic but I'm returning it today, first business day, through Amazon since it's a brand new item that doesn't work.\n\nUpdate: Seller contacted me in an attempt to change my one star rating even after advising me to return the item to Amazon. Just wow.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2221, "id": 87222, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2222, "id": 459410, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 237, "len_tokens": 300, "text": "I had such high hopes for this oven.  After wanting a commercial-style range I was excited when NXR began to manufacture these at a far lower cost than similar style ranges out there.  Unfortunately, my expectations were not met with power and ease-of-use I had hoped for .  Originally, I liked the fact that each burner is fully adjustable from a simmer to the full 15,000 BTU.  Upon arrival, I noticed that none of the burners burned consistently.  In other words, they would either flicker, have gaps in the rings or coming out of the sides, etc.  After repeatedly using the warranty service, I was told that the parts have to be a certain way and even the tiniest grain of sand or built-up condensation might throw off the flame.  What I needed was a vacuum-sealed and sterilized room to store this stove in and my kitchen wasn't it.  After continuing to agonize over cleaning, setting the burner parts down just right, none of them work properly.  To add to my irritation, the burner ignition switches continues to repeatedly \"click\" whenever any burner is on a high temperature.  After fighting with the company's completely useless customer service, I've given up and decided to return to a less expensive and less-of-a-hassle brand.  If anyone is thinking about this or has any questions, I do respond to comments so please let me know so I can dissuade you!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2223, "id": 45242, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 327, "len_tokens": 361, "text": "This ice maker works great, but is pretty heavy. We have a small kitchen and had to buy a cart for it that was sturdy enough with rollers on it. Counter space is limited here. That is something we knew before buying it which is not a problem, as we knew what we were getting into. Just speaking for those who are limited on counter space, you may want to look into some kind of cabinet that you can put this ice maker on. With that being said, there are two problems I see with this device so far.\n\n1. The ice melts pretty fast, even if you put it in the freezer for a long period of time it still melts pretty quick.\n2. The ice sticks together due to accessible amount of water getting on the ice cubes. We find when empty the tray you have to drain the water and then once you put it in the freezer they stick. However, it doesn't take much force to break up the ice. They seem to break off pretty easily.\n\nThis is the only issues we have had so far. My siblings and I chipped in and bought this for our mom for Christmas. She knew ahead of time what she was getting and the size to make sure it was going to work for her. So far it has, but just the two things I have mentioned are the only problems. Other than that this machine works great! My mom is like a little kid when she hears the ice drop. The one good thing about this ice I like is that they look kinda like an oval shape with a whole at one end of the ice cube. This is nice if you want to make crushed ice for some drinks. It does have 3 sizes. We have only tried the medium and the large.\n\nIf anyone has questions feel free to ask away.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2224, "id": 245138, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 316, "len_tokens": 370, "text": "We do a lot of entertaining, especially during football season, and we had grown tired of spending money buying ice at the grocery store or some random gas station. I figured this Luma unit was worth the small investment - provided it did make clear ice as advertised. So far so good! Personally, I really like that this unit makes actual ice CUBES, versus bullet ice.\n\nPros:\n- This unit really does make clear ice, almost exactly like what you'd find in a bar\n- Very simple to use, this ice maker is the epitome of \"plug & play\"\n- Looks awesome in our kitchen, the stainless finish is just about perfect\n- Makes a lot of ice once it gets running\n- Ice is cubed, not bullet or circles - probably my favorite part!\n\nCons:\n- The first time you use the unit, the ice making cycle takes a little longer than advertised. Once the unit really gets humming, the ice comes faster and faster\n- While it makes a lot of ice, it will melt if you don't move it to the freezer (after about 2-3 hours), although the water is then re-used\n- It's a bit heavy to be a truly portable unit, unless you're putting it in an RV\n\nTips:\n- When you first get your ice maker and unpack it, make sure you let it sit for a couple hours before plugging it in, just like you would a fridge\n- The first cycle or two takes a little more time than normal, so make sure you give yourself extra time if you need ice for something in particular\n- If you want to build up a nice ice stockpile, get some plastic bags and fill them with ice from the machine, then put it in a freezer for long term storage - MUCH cheaper than buying it from the store.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2225, "id": 456648, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 260, "len_tokens": 309, "text": "I decided to post this review after reading the one negative review it received.\n\nI'm giving it 4 out of 5 stars, because i can imagine there may be some other dishwasher out there that might be better; however i still feel this is a GREAT unit.\n\nI always rinse my dishes before loading them into a dishwasher, i think that's just good practice; so i never had a problem with it not cleaning the dishes properly.\n\nI've owned mine since 2010; Lived with it for about a year and a half,and now, I'm renting my place out where the tenant i'm renting to is using it - He's been living there for about a year and a half.  I was in his apartment the other day and noticed he was using the dishwasher - I'm sure if there was a problem with it, he'd have been washing dishes by hand.\n\nAdditionally, I just ordered 2 more (because i've had such a good experience with mine)and will be putting them in 2 apartments i'm currently renovating - And will more than likely be putting it in another one, as soon as I'm done with the current 2.\n\nIt looks cool.\nAnd it does a great job.\nThe one bad review states it's difficult to organize your items ... but i've never had that problem.\nIt's a small unit - You just got to make due with what you have - Seriously, if you need something small, and hate washing dishes, this is a GREAT unit.\n\nI highly recommend.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2226, "id": 87230, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2227, "id": 187881, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 261, "len_tokens": 322, "text": "I have never worked on a fridge prior to today.\nAfter doing some research on why my fridge wasn't getting cold I unplugged the fridge, removed the back panel inside the freezer and removed the shelves and brackets to access the old fan. As i suspected from my research the fan had burned out which seems to be a common occurrence. I ordered this replacement evaporator motor on Amazon for a 5 year old Frigidaire Model # FRS26LF7DSB. The price ($26.00) was less than half of what it would have cost ($60.00) on other \"replacement parts\" websites. I ordered the item on a Monday at 4:55 PM and had it sent overnight for an extra $20 = total of $46.00. The part arrived by 3PM on Tuesday and it took no more than 15 minutes to install. The old motor had wire connectors that could be pulled off. Once this was completed I removed the fan blade and the old motor from the motor housing and inserted the new motor and attached the fan blade. Total time thus far under 5 minutes.  The new motor has the same wire connectors as the old one so I just reconnected the wires and put the housing back in the freezer and gave her a try. As soon as I plugged in the refrigerator the motor/fan came on right away. I then unplugged the fridge. Reattached the back panel and shelving brackets/shelves and was done. Total time was under 15 minutes.\nIf you have the same problem it is an easy and inexpensive fix.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2228, "id": 535081, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 272, "len_tokens": 332, "text": "Bought this unit in December, and it's been a nightmare ever since.  First off, it is LOUD.  Could probably live with that, but it gets worse.\n\nWe came home one day to realize that everything in the deli tray was frozen solid,and everything in the rest of the fridge was room temp.  One fridge of food, wasted.  Lovely. GE sent a guy out who diagnosed the issue as a faulty circulating fan by looking at the unit for literally 3 seconds.  3 weeks later the replacement part arrived, but only after I called GE and tracked the part down myself.  During these 3 weeks the compressor ran non-stop, because the unit was trying to cool off the fridge portion.  After week two, the compressor sounded like a box of rocks when it cycled.\n\nReplacement part installed, and two weeks later the same issue arrived.  Second fridge of food, wasted. I called GE and was told there is another part causing this issue. Because the compressor had now gone to crap, I demanded a new unit, which they agreed to. However, I was told that the new unit would arrive with the same defect and would require an immediate repair upon delivery.  Still waiting on them to call me back so I can schedule that appt.\n\nAdditionally, the new unit is way louder than the first.  Our kitchen is right off of the living room,and if someone tried to sleep on the couch I bet they couldn't.\n\nFor the amount GE charges for this thing, it should work.  But it doesn't. Total POS.  Get something else and save yourself the headache.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2229, "id": 127592, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 334, "len_tokens": 398, "text": "My Samsung refrigerator (Model #RS22HDHPNBC) originally came with the DA29-00003F filter but after reading reviews on Amazon I purchased this DA29-00003G filter as my first replacement after 6 months since it is supposed to filter the water better. The new G filter was the same size as the F filter but the \"teeth\" that hold it in place were shaped slightly different (the G filter teeth have sharp angles whereas the F filter had smooth curves). Despite the difference in the \"teeth\", the G filter installed easily with no water leak inside the refrigerator. I dispensed water and there was a lot of air in the line that caused splashing (I probably should have tried to fill the filter with water from the tap before I installed it to limit the amount of air), but the air dissipated after the 4th or 5th glass was filled. I originally gave the filter 4 stars because the dispenser was dripping after the replacement, but after a day the dripping stopped. Someone else also noted a drip in their review that resolved over time, they said it was due to air in the line. My wife and I feel the water tastes better after changing to the G filter, it's cleaner tasting than with the F filter. We had reverse osmosis system before, so we are very sensitive to abnormal taste in our water. I noticed on the box that the original F filter was good for 500 gallons whereas the new G filter says it's only good for 300. The original F filter lasted almost exactly 6 months before the water started tasting bad, so I'll be interested to see if the G filter lasts as long since it's not rated for as many gallons. Considering how much more expensive this filter is compared to the generic replacement F filters, I will be disappointed if I don't get 6 months out of each of them. Despite the cost, I am very happy with the filter.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2230, "id": 87498, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2231, "id": 99449, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 286, "len_tokens": 362, "text": "Since purchasing this washer in January, 2011, it has stopped working three times.  After a long hold time, Maytag will send out a repairman, but they give you a schedule of 8AM - 5PM and show up around 7PM.  The warranty is only good for one year, and I predict that this washer will break again soon.  The repairman tells us that the faulty part is the \"sensor/pressure switch\" which controls the water level.  He mentioned that this part is made in Mexico and is $125 if you have to buy it outside of the warranty period.\n\nSave yourself the trouble and buy yourself an \"old school\" top loading agitating washer, the kind with \"Hot, Cold, Warm, Soak and Extra Rinse\" cycles.  The supposed water and detergent savings are not worth the trouble, cost and inconvenience of having these things serviced.  If I could return this washer and swap it out for a different model, I surely would.\n\nBy the way, before purchasing this model Maytag, we purchased another Maytag washer that failed on the 3rd load.  We were able to return it to Home Depot the day after we bought it.  The Home Depot manager did not want to take it back saying that all appliances have to be serviced by the manufacturer's warranty departments.  I asked for the store manager and raised enough of a stink by saying that it was a new washer and shouldn't break down on the second day of ownership, and Home Depot gave us a refund.  I have lost all confidence in the Maytag brand.  As for washers and dryers, buy the simplest models out there, which are usually cheaper, and you'll be better off in the long run.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2232, "id": 221615, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 277, "len_tokens": 338, "text": "here's the deal - - if you can read (obliviously you can) you can change out this radiant surface element - - as others have mentioned the connections are NOT exact - -however they are labeled 1a 1b 2a 2b etc - - this is what I did.\n\nThe first thing I did was UN PLUG THE OVEN !!!!! You don't want to have power running to what ever you are working on  I opened up my stove top, I braced it with a piece of wood holding the surface open (similar to opening the hood of your car).  Next I took a picture of the current connections (just in case).  Then I I disconnected each electrical fitting making an mental not of where they go.  I unscrewed the support brace, and un plugged the clamps holding the burner to the support.  The element slipped right out.\n\nI held the new element beside the old one, noting the connections 1a 1b 2a etc - remembering which numeric letter was associated with the color wire (red, black, purple).\n\nI also removed the support clamps from my old element - and re-installed them over the exact corresponding number of the old burner (over the #9 and #42 if I remember correctly).\n\nI put the new element in place allowing the old clips to clip into the support brace, and tightened the screw holding the brace.  I re-connected each wire, plugged the oven back in - and double checked my work by turning the burner on - - bazinga!!!!  Put the screws back in connecting the surface to the over and slid the over back in place", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2233, "id": 218246, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 244, "len_tokens": 324, "text": "Nina soft has changed my life.  Oh, and I bought one of the plunger-style handwashing devices, too.  But, mostly, it's the Nina soft...\n\nOld me: clothes hamper filled to overflowing through the week; had to remember to get money from the bank on Fridays; spent a couple hours carting stuff to and fro the laundry room in my apartment building on Saturday or Sunday night, all the while wondering why laundry rooms are always so grungy; then stayed up late to get everything folded at once.\n\nNew me: every other night or so, right as I get in the door from work, I put the 2-3 days worth of clothes to soak in the bathtub.  After supper, I swish with the plunger-washer, rinse, spin and hang from the shower rod.  I fold soft, wrinkle-free things in the morning.  So far, it's been easy to make it a routine.  On Sunday night, I can sit and read instead of racing to get the big chore finished.\n\nAnd there's more!  No more picking up other people's dryer lint and errant undies left in the coin dryers.  No more sniffing my clothes and smelling someone else's perfumey detergent residue.  No more pouring dollar after dollar into coin machines that often didn't work and, truthfully, never really got clothes all that clean.\n\nI am just so happy with Nina soft.  I almost didn't buy because I thought it was kinda expensive; but, really, it's completely worth the price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2234, "id": 177660, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 299, "len_tokens": 384, "text": "I am giving this dishwasher 1 star because it does look and act like a real dishwasher. It has a door, racks, it makes \"whooshing\" sounds, and it has buttons that beep. The numerous mentions of Energy Stars make it sound powerful and glamourous.\n\nHowever, what this machine does NOT manage to do is actually clean our dishes. Every single load we attempt to wash with this machine, regardless of the settings, regardless of the amount of soap, the kind of soap, regardless of how we load it (heavy/light), or where we load it, the same result is the same: our dishes, pots and pans, glasses, cutlery, etc. come out only barely cleaner than we put them in.\n\nHere's how we now use this \"dishwasher\":\nstep 1) We carefully scrub and pre-rinse and sometimes manually wash (with soap!) most items BEFORE we put into this washer, knowing that any particle (a piece of lettuce, a piece of rice, coffee residue, fat, etc) may get baked unto something else in the washer. As one reviewer mentioned: dirt never leaves this machine. It just gets randomly distributed. So better remove it in advance, because you'll be scraping it off the bottom of your glasses.\nstep 2) The dishwasher pretends to wash the dishes for hours. That's when it makes the magical energy star sounds.\nstep 3) We take our items out, inspect them, and manually re-re-clean about 50%. This involves a lot of scraping, rinsing, soap, and chagrin.\n\nWe've started to just skip the dishwasher and do our dishes manually, because we know the dishwasher will not clean them or just make things worse. That's how poorly this DW cleans.\n\nI do give it a triple Energy Star, because it does a great job at tripling our energy and water use!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2235, "id": 111535, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 300, "text": "WARNING: product page reads this is 410CFM but that is not true. It really is 350CFM. You need to be aware of this as you are comparing products and going for the most airflow like I was. I hope that info helps\n\nStill, even with that mistake, its a great vent. It looks fantastic. My main fear before purchasing it was that I wanted the color to match. Sure enough, the stainless steel color shade blends universally well with all my other stainless steal kitchen products.\n\nInstallation note. Not all the screws are so easily accessible with even a long bit at the end of the drill. Two of the screws were pretty annoying to get in. So expect as much when you are installing it. This is not enough of an issue to cause you to not get this.\n\nThe steel filters under the hood look really nice. It covers the entire area to give one smooth finish. Getting them both in next to each other took a little getting used to but once you play around with it then it becomes easy.\n\nA nice surprise was the fan would continue to blow even when we turned it off. It has a heat sensor so when you turn off the vent and walk away itll keep going for a little but and auto turn off. This means you don't have to turn off to run into the kitchen to turn on and off the vent anymore. When you are done cooking just press the button and itll take care of itself.\n\nReally like this hood!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2236, "id": 9264, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 213, "len_tokens": 302, "text": "Absolutly everything I expected. The Haier HLP21E, 6 3/5 lb. capacity, holds about 1/2 load of a regular sized drum. Washes wonderful and spins out to just damp. I've been using Arm & Hammer liquid with the softener in it and have had no over-sudsing issues. ( I use about 1/2-3/4 capful). It came in about 5 days, much earlier than the esimated shipping date. It hooked up easy and has no leaks, and doesn't play Jingle Bells, (LOL) like previous models! It's perfect for 1-2 people in a small apartment, probably not the most paractical for a big family, but I love it. I think I was getting depression from having to drag my laundry out and up and down my stairs to the 2nd floor, especially during WNY winter, and now I'm SAVED!!!\n\nNo, I don't have a dryer, but I have use of a clothes line and bought a dryer rack that fits in my bath tub. So, Love, Love, Love!! And I make everyone that comes over, check-it-out, and they love it too!  :D Oh, and I'm going to put it on a wheeled plant stand too, (like I read that someone else did) as soon as I find one with locking wheels.\n\nThanks for reading,\n\nL.E.\n\nWestern NY", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2237, "id": 340956, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 260, "len_tokens": 304, "text": "We bought the SQ 8 series washer and dryer to replace a Kenmore stacked set that well and truly died after eleven years. The SQ seemed like a better bet for the long haul than the other options out there. They are built like tanks.\n\nThe independent appliance store we bought the set from delivered the units and took care to set them up correctly. So far we have run detergent through an empty hot cycle, to make sure the tub was clean. Next a load of dirty house cleaning rags on cold Eco-wash, a good setting for that task. Finally I washed a small load of clothes, including a white tux shirt, on a small, delicate, cold cycle. Everything turned out clean on that last load, and the dryer, with the moisture sensor, did its job perfectly. The washer has the ability to use lots of water, which can be a good thing, but the electronic controls allow for the flexibility to create efficient cycles. Because typically our wash is light duty, the plan is to do medium loads in cold water on a delicate agitation using a very small amount of HE detergent.\n\nWe are settling in for what should be a long haul with our new Speed Queen washer and dryer. Hopefully our washing will become a mindless, boring task in which we take for granted that the appliances will simply work.\n\nUpdate 10/30/2016\nThe Speed Queens are working out just fine. We've been using the Perm Press cycle with cold water, medium fill, light soil settings.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2238, "id": 101821, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 254, "len_tokens": 303, "text": "It works, I like it. It's probably not the greatest things out there for this purpose, but it does its job and does it well. It does make wringing wet items out much easier and now when I need to wash/rinse something by hand it no longer drips & take forever to dry. I simply do not have the strength to hand wring. I never did. You do have to watch when you load it up, be careful not to over fill it and you must watch over it while it is spinning. I've already had one of my curious cats learn the hard way that this is not a kitty toy. Thankfully she hit the button on top that pops the lids and stops the centrifuge, some water spritzed out on her and she didn't care for that. So now she leaves it alone. It is also rather tiny. When I said be careful I mean it. I can put maybe 2 tee shirts and a couple pairs of under wear or just 1 pair of jeans. Washcloths are fine but towels are 1 at a time. Make sure that it is loaded evenly (there are a handful of YouTube videos that can give you ideas on how to do this), if it's not even it makes a dreadful noise and falls over.  This is all a lot of work for wringing out some clothes, still it's worth it and I'm glad to have it. It makes the \"in-between\" washings so much easier.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2239, "id": 226776, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 277, "len_tokens": 328, "text": "Ok, I've got a kenmore elite front loading washer.  I bought it at Sears which I'll never do again.  Overall, I love the washer.  However, when I first bought it I was a bachelor.  I had no idea what \"HE detergent\" was and I used regular washing detergent and within a couple years I fried my first pump.  Sears told me that even though I had bought a service contract they would not honor it because I had used non HE detergent even though no where in the instructions did it say that I had to.  They were going to charge me $300 to replace the pump.  I bought my first replacement (for $40ish with postage) and put it in myself in about 20 minutes.  From that day on I used nothing but HE detergent and a few years later the pump went again.  When I went to buy a new pump I was told that they had a replacement pump.  Considering that i had fried two I thought that made sense.  The new model had a different plug and I cut off the old one and wired on the new one according to instructions provided.  This is very important because when I went to install this pump it had the old plug and I couldn't install it.  Why the 5 stars?  I don't think my issues were the fault of the pumps.  My review is mainly just a warning, make sure of all the electronics and fittings before you purchase or hire a plumber.  I hope if you buy it that it works out for you and thanks for taking the time to read my review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2240, "id": 342811, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 314, "len_tokens": 384, "text": "Positives: Character design templates are included and easy to follow; Unpacking of the product is quick and easy, no hard-to-cut plastic covered items; Once you work through the initial faults of this product(see negatives), it is fun and my son was excited to create characters.\nNegatives: Design flaw #1: Instructions are to press firmly and beads will stay. Well, they don't. When you use the included paper template, the beads don't stay and topple over. My son was initially very frustrated with this until we came up with our own solution. Our solution was to fold up a paper towel, get it wet, and we dabbed the bottom of each bead before sticking it on to the template. The beads seemed to stay much better once they had a little bit of \"glue\" to help them stick. Design flaw #2: The container that you separate the beads in to by color has no top. Once we were done for the day, we dumped the remaining beads into a baggy because the nice little separating container they give you doesn't have a top. Weird. Why wouldn't they supply a top???\nLast comment: Neither a positive nor a negative...just an opinion. The spinning drying thing is not totally necessary. Sure, my son had fun pushing the button twenty times to make it spin; That was fun. The directions said it gets rid of the excess water, but you have to wait at least 20 min (according to the directions) for them to dry anyway. We waited longer because ours were still sticky. If the spinning thing gets lost, no big whoop. You can still create characters without the paper templates, without the spinning thing, and still have a fun and cute product when you're done. Just don't lose the beads...which is why I would love a top on the container! Ha! Hope this info helps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2241, "id": 441751, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 311, "len_tokens": 369, "text": "We've always used the OEM filters from GE at about $40-$45 each from Amazon.\n\nFor us they go about a year until the visual timer says time to replace.\n\nWe decided to try an after-market brand as a test to see how it would go for a clone filter at under $10 each.\n\nNot sure if these non-OEM filters use the same charcoal filtering compound as the Aquacrest nor do we know how long this filter will last as it begins to filter and eventually become somewhat restrictive of flow as our OEM GE filters did when they were close to replacement.\n\nThese Aquacrest filters are well made, but, noticeably lighter in weight when new and not yet filled of water. The OEM GE filters are uch heavier in hand before use. Is it the housing or what s inside for filtering material? Not sure.\n\nOK so after this comparison, I will say that these filters are totally leak free and fit perfectly and once you \"flush\" them using perhaps 8 quarts of waters to be sure they are ready for use and purged, the water is as good and fresh and neutral in taste as the GE brand.\n\nOk,...so at under $10 a filter versus 4-5X that amount for an original GE, I am totally ok replacing these filters more often as needed and still be  saving a lot over buying the pricey single GE filters.\n\nI am betting that you will see the GE original GSWF filters go down in price accordingly.\n\nSo why not 5 stars?\n\nThis is the first use of these non-oems  and time will tell if all goes well. As for now, 5 star satisfaction and a cautious 4 star rating as a first user!!\n\nGive these a try!!!\n\nAt the sub $20 price for two and Amazon's gracious return policy, you'll be fine!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2242, "id": 198923, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 299, "len_tokens": 372, "text": "Installed yesterday... By Lowes \"Professional\" installers (snort a joke) we had to revent it because he didn't attach... ANY how.. when you turn it on it sounds like a handful of screws are in the drum, it goes like this for oh a couple of mins becomes quiter and quiter and then the noise dissapears... It also does not dry.. towel setting the towels are still damp.. and now it's throwing the breaker... SIGH I have an Electrolux stove that is OMG Awesome, seems to be the best bulit appliance I've ever owned, so we threw down the big $$ to stay with Electrolux and get this dryer.. Hope I just have a lemon... They are replaceing it in about 2 weeks... Was gonna get the matching washer??? The Jury will see what the new dryer is like first\n\nWell the second dryer is TOTALY AWESOME!!! Can't say enough good things about it!!  I LOVE LOVE the touch up with steam.. I don't iron, it makes my clothes look like some one did iron them! The extended tumble keeps stuff from wrinkling until I can get back to the dryer n get stuff out! So the first one was just a lemon, only real prob I had was with Lowes \"expert\" installation. People do not seem to take any pride in their work anymore..(thus the first dryer having screws loose behind the drum)\n\nAll of my major appliances are now Electrolux, and OMG there is a BIG difference in the quality of these vs my (not so old) oh Maytag washer . Any how, this dryer is soo worth the extra $$$$ it cost! Oh BTY it's so quiet you can not hear it run!  If your looking for a top of the line dryer look no further!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2243, "id": 468370, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 275, "len_tokens": 325, "text": "I must add my story about this washer. I purchased mine in 2010. In 2011 the motherboard died. It was still under warranty at that point so it was replaced at no cost. Great, so I thought! Fast forward to 2013 and guess what...the motherboard died again! Now we are outside the warranty so I am forced to pay for the repairs on what I am now feeling is a defective piece of machinery. I explained my frustration to Fridgidaire but they did not care. They extended me 50% off of the part and acted like they had just done me a huge favor! Fast forward again to today!!! You guessed it...motherboard dead!!!! Very clearly this washer is defective! I called today and they again offered me the same fantastic deal of 50% off of the part. If i pay for this to be fixed again i will have put in almost the cost of the washer new, in repairs!!! When I explained to the \"supervisor\" that this is a chronic problem and obviously the machine is defective, she began to treat me like I was crazy! I asked to speak to her boss and she told me that she would not transfer me to anyone else! I then asked what her bosses name was and called back, asked to speak with said boss only to be told that she was \"at a meeting\". This company is so disrespectful and treat their customers horribly. They sell defective merchandise and do not care! So much for companies standing behind their products anymore! Never buying anything from Fridgidaire again and I suggest no one else does either!!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2244, "id": 28210, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 277, "len_tokens": 314, "text": "My husband and I own a 3000 Sq ft house that is 4 off centered stories, so basically two stories on one side and 2 on the other, but none of them are level. Odd duckling house (but the view is amazing) because of its oddness it is expensive to keep warm. $350 bills during the winter if we just use our heat, $250 if we try to conserve energy and freeze, $200 if we have a fire going non stop and use our space heaters in the rooms we are in, so really if we find a way to help heat our house we will try it.\n\nAnyways, I actually came across this item for a whole different reason, we have had a fire burning non stop just about the past few weeks and my husband went to use the humidifier and it didn't work so I did a search for options to help  moisten the air and on a blog I found a similar item recommended and it took me back to the days we lived in an apartment. We had a dryer hooked up in our storage closet but it didn't actually have an outlet for the dryer we just used it anyway and it was always warm and moist so I figured hey, let's try this and so the same thing in the house.\n\nMy husband said it took o ly a few min to put together and he actually mounted it to the wall. It is working great and I am happy we spent the $10 try it.\n\nI think if that's why your interested in getting one then it's worth trying.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2245, "id": 453825, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 240, "len_tokens": 323, "text": "So sorry to read the previous review.  We have had our Miele steam oven for over 3 years and never had an issue with it.  This steam oven makes healthier, more moisture meals every time with minimal effort or clean up.\n\nI've never enjoyed cooking until I bought this product.  Now I just decide what we are going to eat.\n\nChoose from the program choices: meat, fish, vegetables, egg, etc.  If I select fish: I then press what type of fish, salmon in my case.  The program will ask if its fillets or steaks: I choose fillet.....last choice is the thickness.  I choose 1 1/2 inches thick.  Magically the steam oven turns on and is ready 14 minutes later.  If I place potatoes and veggies in the same tray, my meal is complete.\n\nNo more multiple sauce pans because everyone wants a different vegetable.  The veggies go into one pan, steam and add butter and spices.  Pasta or potatoes are a breeze.  I frequently  go to mieleusa.com for recipe ideas.\n\nNo more overlooked meals.\n\nIf you really want a state of the art appliance, get the brand new Miele DGC 4084XL oven.  It's a steam, convection, and broiling oven all in one.  Expensive, but, well worth it.\n\nI've just ordered mine.  It will be the only oven in our new kitchen.  Now that my husband and I are alone, we don't need a lot of appliances which are hardly used.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2246, "id": 88110, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2247, "id": 52609, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 221, "len_tokens": 347, "text": "I purchased this filter for my Graco home humidifier.  I regularly performed operational maintenance on my humidifier, including washing the filter.  Despite the maintenance the filter slowly became discolored from the natural pollutants and minerals contained in my water.  This Graco Filter helped solve my problem.\n\nI carefully care for the filter.  To avoid frequently replacing the filter,  I use a procedure that can extend the life of the filter.  When the filter forms a crust, I soak it for awhile in vinegar water (usually 1 part vinegar to 4 parts water).  After soaking I carefully rinse the filter several times in fresh water.\n\nThe Graco humidifier that I use is an evaporation style machine.  To work properly, the \"filter\" must be free of pollutants, as the machine adds moisture to the air by having a fan blow air through the sponge type filter (exactly like the \"swamp coolers\" so popular in arid climates).  Clogs decrease effectiveness and add pollutants to the air in the room being used.  Accordingly, in addition to carefully maintaining the filter, I add  KAZ Humidifier Bacteriostatic Treatment to the reservoir to prevent the growth of bacterial agents. (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/KAZ-Humidifier-Bacteriostatic-Treatment/dp/B0009GZLYU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">KAZ Humidifier Bacteriostatic Treatment</a>\n\nWhen properly maintained, the Graco Humidifier Replacement filter is an excellent product.  I recommend this filter for evaporation humidifiers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2248, "id": 503981, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 294, "len_tokens": 351, "text": "We chose this model after seeing it on display in our builders model. We liked the contols in front, the cermaic cooktop, and convection oven.\n\nAfter our first use, I noticed what appeared to be a dirty spot on one of the burners. I followed the directions on cleaning the cooktop and the spot was actually a gouge. So I called GE, the tech came out and agreed that it was a defect, and ordered a new cooktop.\n\nThe tech came out to install the cooktop and it was damaged inside the box. So he ordered another one, and a week latter installed it. Sure enough after the third time we used it I saw what was another spot. Now mind you I follow the directions and wait until the cooking surface is cool. So I called GE again and a new cooktop was on it's way.\n\nI opened the box and sure enough the cooktop was broken in several pieces. I called GE again and talked with them about replacing the stove entirely. Two days latter they agreed to do. On the third time cooking, there were several spots I noticed. I got a wet, soapy rag, cleaned it, dried it with a paper towel, then used a microfiber cloth. This took about 15 to 20 minutes. And it still isn't 100% clean.\n\nMost of the pots and pans that we use are stainless steel some fairly new. We will not be using old ones as we are aware that can cause damage to the service.\n\nI am going to call GE up to see if we can exhange it for another model.\n\nThis is frustrating as I had a GE cermaic cook top in 2002 and never had any of these issues.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2249, "id": 112221, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 278, "len_tokens": 340, "text": "I was sooo excited to get my new Kitchenaid refridge! I bought a returned model that was supposedly in complete working order - (Learned my lesson & will never do that again, but heck, I was saving $1,200 on it, so thought it was worth the risk and bought the extended warranty just in case.)\n\nAnyway, It never made ice properly. Very tiny cubes and only about 6 cubes per day.  Initial service at my house (which actually was the second service on the refridge) had the tech scratching his head and said it must be the fan not running continuously to pull the cold air up from the freezer. Ordered new fan & new wiring.  Had that installed a week later & it was worse! Only made about 6 cubes every couple days.  Called for another service on it. This time Whirlpool (division of Kitchenaid) scheduled a \"master\" repairman to come see it. They promised me a Monday morning appt. but they were a no show. Called Kitchenaid again and got someone the next day from another repair company. This tech spoke with Whirlpool directly about the problem history and was told to order a whole new icemaker (7 to 10 day turn around on parts) and \"if that doesn't fix it - consider the motherboard might be bad.\"  Geez Louise!\n\nAfter sitting home for service repair 4 times I had had more than enough of this! The store where I bought it is getting it back! They waived the restocking fee & gave me a discount on a different brand. If you decide to buy this one, I'd be sure to get the extended warranty.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2250, "id": 550748, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 276, "len_tokens": 326, "text": "I LOVE my Fisher Paykel dishdrawers!! It is the perfect dishwasher for a little old couple!! Ha. We fill one drawer about every 3 or 4 days. I have always washed my pots and pans by hand and any mixing bowls so this drawer works perfectly for us. Even if you are the type who throws everything in your old dishwasher except the kitchen sink, two drawers placed side by side works perfectly - use one for dishes and one for pots & pans and mixing bowls. It loads so easy and effortlessly standing up as opposed to crawling around bent over at 90 degrees trying to fill the old style dishwashers! Even when we bought the larger square plates, I just had to place them in at an angle and they fit perfectly. Have only used the second drawer maybe three times in 13 years. We are planning to build a new house in an effort to downsize and am thinking of only getting one drawer this time. I did make the mistake of stacking the drawers in our current house because, well, we are all so used to the old floor-to-counter box-type dishwashers; however, I never use the bottom one anyway. If you've never had dishdrawers, they take a little getting used to, but in the end you will love them! And Fisher Paykel is the best! The only problem I have had in 13 years was I needed to replace a rubber gasket, which was the easiest thing to do. They couldn't have been nicer or more helpful over the phone. Do yourself a favor and make the switch to Fisher Paykel DishDrawers!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2251, "id": 473899, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 277, "len_tokens": 340, "text": "Whirlpool WRT351SFYW 21.1 Cu. Ft. White Top Freezer Refrigerator - Energy...puts out a very irritating high pitch noise, unlike my previous Whirlpool Refrig. The old one was perfectly quiet. I believe Whirlpool is going down hill in every way. WP is buying refrigerators from 3rd world countries and slapping the name on them. The delivery people were very rude with me when I was unable to give them a tip, even though I had to supply my truck to shuttle the refrig. up to my house and help them unload it: I also had to go and find them when they would not follow my directions to my house. So, they kept the wrench I loaned them; they did not have their own tools for the installation. And they refused to return it when I asked them to do so. Denver's Customer Service refused to respond in any way to my requests for information or complaints about the noise and delivery. Finally, their head office contacted me a month or two later, and the customer service person had initiated the discussion in argumentative attitude despite my saying I did not care anymore, I gave up on them and don't expect anything from Whirlpool anymore. While she told me that there are standard levels of acceptable noise that come from their refrigerator, while, she refused to acknowledge that they are not my standards, and I am the customer, besides, I had an older Whirlpool refrig. that did not make any noise I am sorry trusted WP, when I tried to upgrade the old refrig. - it was and expensive downgrade! Buy LG or Amanda - wished I did!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2252, "id": 149377, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 254, "len_tokens": 307, "text": "My in-laws had several complaints about their recently purchased front-loading washing machine.\n\n1) The new washer is shorter than their previous model so the dryer was taller. The harmony of the room was diminished. It just didn't look right.\n2) While in the laundry room, the washer made the house feel like the foundation was shaking.\n3) The washing machine could be heard though out the house - especially in the living room, which shares a wall with the laundry room. Basically, the washing machine and TV sit back to back. The extra noise was infuriating my father-in-law.\n\nAfter many hours of internet research, I purchased a set of Silent Feet based on other Amazon users' recommendations and the fact that NASA uses the same materials that are in Silent Feet to protect equipment on the space shuttle.\n\nI chose the Anti-Walk Silent Feet because my father-in-law really wanted the washer \"locked\" into place.  At first, he was skeptical, but the Silent Feet were very easy to install.  We tilted the washer back and forth and placed the Silent Feet under each of the washer's legs.  The Silent Feet added enough height to make the washer sit flush with the dryer.\n\nNow you can barely feel the washing machine when it is running. What once seemed very prominent now can be barely felt.  And best of all, Jack Bauer can be fully enjoyed without the muffled drone of a washing machine in the back ground.\n\nSilent Feet worked great.  My in-laws couldn't be happier.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2253, "id": 355336, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 302, "text": "I have found that this product is excellent for using in my LG Fridge. In order to capitalize on the health benefits of water, it is essential to draw from a clean source of water.\nI used to only purchase bottled water but the cost was getting out of control. Thats when I discovered the LG Refresh Premium Fridge Filter.\nDelivery was fast and easy. The product took less than 5 minutes to install.\nWhen I realized that there are more than 2100 known drinking water contaminants that may be present in tap water, including several known poisons it made my decision to purchase this filter immediately.\nI received my delivery within just 2 days of placing the order.\nI have done research to find out that the only way to ensure pure, contaminant-free drinking water is through the use of a point-of-use filtration system.\nI had no idea that several types of cancer can be attributed to the presence of toxic materials in drinking water. Again this  made the decision to purchase this filter very easy.\nClean, healthy drinking water is essential to a childs proper mental and physical development.\nAccording to the EPA, lead in drinking water contributes to 480,000 cases of learning disorders in children each year in the United States alone.\nIt is especially important for pregnant women to drink pure water as lead in drinking water can cause severe birth defects.\nI would highly encourage everyone to use a fridge filter just like this.\nI purchased this product at a discounted rate in return for a fair and honest review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2254, "id": 493545, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 277, "len_tokens": 320, "text": "Just installed this Part in our LG LDF6810ST / 10yr old dishwasher. The part appeared at first to be pretty close to identical, but when we took the old out and compared to the new, we found some differences. The rubber gasket that comes with the new Pump is much thicker, thus will not work when trying to instal the new pump, forcing you to use the old gasket and that was fine. Another issue we dealt with was the 2 sump assembly holders ( Part # 4930DD3008A ) and they were extremely difficult to instal, having to cut and trip to fit and that is due to the new dishwasher pump plastic housing being completely different than your original LG pump assembly part. There was one electrical connection that is positioned differently then the original pump, but that was not a problem reaching. If you feel comfortable with repairs and challenges that come with them, then you will find replacing this part could give you some frustrations and the main one is the sump assembly holders because of the outer plastic housing of the new pump being different. Once you get beyond that, you are golden. One important not for those of you dealing with LE error message! Do yourself a favor and remove the front of the dishwasher door where the wiring is housed. Our issue was 4 broken wires, but I didn't realize until I installed the new pump. What is sad is my better half told me to check that first because of the Youtube video she saw about the LE Error Code and I didn't think that was our issue. I was so wrong!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2255, "id": 267084, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 348, "text": "I've had this range for a couple of days, and so far I think it's awesome.\n\nSetup was unproblematic.  It came very well protected to make sure it looks pristine once installed.\nIn response to another review here: I had no problems whatsoever sliding in the racks.\n\nThe controls are well-organized; the oven is easy to control. I would much prefer rotary knobs, however.  They may be more difficult to clean, but provide a better interface through haptic feedback.  Often, one just wants to heat up something like water quickly and select \"H\".  This takes a lot of button-presses (or hold button and wait).  That said, given the responsiveness and efficacy of induction cooking, I will probably have to start at mid-temperature more often than at the top.\n\nI used the convection oven on a Tarte Flambee (similar to a thin pizza).  It pre-heated more quickly than my previous (new, but much cheaper) electric oven, and the tarte came out crispy, slightly browned on top and overall better than what I am used to.\nSpare racks etc fit in the warming drawer - well-designed.\n\nThe cooktop works great.  I don't hear much noise beyond a buzz with my IKEA pans, and the sensors aren't too finicky in requiring really large pans.  (They do require induction-ready cookware, of course, but that should be clear to anyone considering this range.)  It's amazing how quickly things heat up, and how responsive the system is to changes in temperature setting.\n\nLooks - love the new range.  Very big window.  Stainless steel seems brushed.  Doors seem solid; close quietly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2256, "id": 116655, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 321, "len_tokens": 383, "text": "We purchased this for a basement remodel in the kitchen area.  It is not sold as a built in unit so we did leave 3 inches of space around the top/sides and back.  I have read numerous reviews on Lowes.com and Fridigaire that stated they are using it as a built in and have not had problems.  The thing I like best about this fridge is that I keeps cool (mid to low 30s if you want).  I wanted to be able to use it for food and it has worked great so far.  I used my own thermometer to check temps and it is right on.  I believe it hits the designated temperature and goes up 3 degrees before kicking in to cool again.  I do not find this particularly noisy, it does not sound like a typical compressor, but rather more like a swishing noise like liquid is moving around.  While it is noticeable it is not bad and again, much better than a compressor nose that you would hear in smaller cube refrigerators.  As for looks, it is gorgeous.  It definitely looks more expensive than it was.  We paid three hundred and ninety nine dollars less 10% at Lowes.  Nothing else came near this that could actually keep the temps in the 30s.  We are very happy with our purchase.  One other thing to note is that the handle on the top is fantastic.  It is so much easier to open without bending to reach for the handle.  The shelves are made of glass and look great with the blue light inside.  I prefer these to the typical wire shelves.  Another nice feature is that the door beeps when you open it and will continue to beep again if it is left open too long.  Also it has a lock which is nice if you are storing beverages you don't want the kids to have access to.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2257, "id": 289700, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 275, "len_tokens": 333, "text": "Sprayer Arm was crooked so that the arm stuck against even an empty basket on the right side looking in. Saw two screws holding it on so I removed them and placed a very small washer on the left side to raise it into a more level position.. The sprayer arm was leveled and pretty good. When loaded however the basket continued to impinge on the sprayer mostly near the center.. I found this all out AFTER I had tossed all the elaborate packaging, really remarkable, so returning it was not an option. So I used body force to bend the basket a tiny it upwards near its center. That did the trick.\nAfter about 5 loads, the attaching device started spraying water all over the kitchen. I mean Old Faithful gushing.\nI called Magic Chef \"Customer Service\" and was told that my \"washer\", an O-ring probably fell out of the unicouple (that what the hose attaching device is called.) \"Just take it into a hardware store and get a replacement. Knowing of the hundreds of sizes of O-Rings, I then tried their chat line and asked them to send me a replacement...they CANNOT. I said, then tell me what number the O-ring was...they CANNOT. Where the O-ring went, I have no clue.\nI have a pile of various O-rings, either too big or too small, So I will continue to search.\nI am furious that I may have bought myself a 50 pound paperweight..\n\nI strongly recommend against this dishwasher. It is very poorly conceived and manufactured,\n\nI recommend you look elsewhere for your dishwasher.\n\nI strongly recommend you do not buy this item.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2258, "id": 301087, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 331, "len_tokens": 381, "text": "We bought two of these washer/dryer combos, one from Amazon and one from Home Depot. The delivery from Home Depot was late,  Amazon was right on time. We use one at our home and the other is at our vacation home.\n\nA normal size load takes about 3 hours and usually comes out a little damp, but dries after sitting in a clothes basket for about 10 minutes. Small loads come out much dryer and usually take a little over 2 hours.\n\nThe reason we wanted a ventless dryer was because clothes out of a normal dryer come out smelling dusty. You see, most dryers pull air off of the floor of your laundry room and blow that air through your clothes for about 45 minutes. Often laundry rooms are not the cleanest room in the house. Ventless dryers do not pull in dirty air, they heat up and dehumidify the air in a closed loop inside your dryer. Clothes come out smelling much cleaner, although a little damp sometimes.\n\nThere are other advantages to this combo besides not needing a vent. It uses half the space since you only need one unit to wash and dry with, it plugs in to a normal 120 volt outlet, no need for dedicated 30 amp dryer outlet and of course there is no need to remember to come back later to switch the clothes from the washer to the dryer. This way if I put a load in right before I go to bed or leave the house they are done when I get up or return home, so in some ways it can actually save time.\n\nThe reason for only 4 stars is that on both units we own, the drain pump broke after about 6 months, so I would recommend buying an extended warranty. In both cases LG was out within 2 days to fix it at no charge. A price I am willing to pay for cleaner, dust free clothes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2259, "id": 483851, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 272, "len_tokens": 330, "text": "I do not personally own this range yet, however, I do plan on buying it after extensive research and after receiving unbiased information from my kitchen designers.  I had previously been hesitating based on negative reviews, but it became clear what was going on after clicking on some of the user profiles of those who have reviewed to see what other products they have reviewed......it seems many of them have a full range of thermador products all with 1 star reviews, but also at the same time have viking appliances that are all 5 stars. The dates in which they have posted reviews directly conflicts with what they actually write about in their reviews.\n\nie reviewer Y Brown's 5 star rating on  on 1.6.14:  \"I have had a [viking] 36\" range for a couple years now and it is incredible. I understand there was some issues on the older models but since their re-design a few years back it has been great\"\n\nAnd then on 1.29.14: \"I had a Viking in my last house and I was talked into a Thermidor for a free dw promo and what a mistake. Now I see Viking is doing the free dw.\"\n\nWow it seems you have also had several viking stoves which you spoke so highly of....dating all the way back to 2009. And again in 2010 got a new one \"3 months ago.\"\n\nReally sad that the competition would resort to such measures. It is also unfortunate for those of us looking for honest and unbiased product reviews. Find a trusted expert in the industry or use industry reviews such as JD Power.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2260, "id": 340958, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 311, "len_tokens": 396, "text": "This mom of 4 is a very happy camper!  I fell for the front loader gimmick and noticed my sons' clothing went in smelling like colonge and came out  smelling like colonge...those front loaders simply do not use enough water. If the machine cannot remove cologne, what other nasty smells were remaining on our clothing?  So what if the front loader boasts 15 pair of pants can go in, when they come out a wrinkled tangled mess? Can we talk about the socks that used to get fall into the front gasket and cause horrible mildew/mold? My front loader took forever to complete, so much for \"green\". Moved to a home that had a front loader and I was disappointed with the results and odor. Just moved again and they took their washing machine. Went to appliance store and was hoping a 1970's harvest gold or avacado green machine may be in the back somewhere....salesmen tried to sell me the top loaders without a traditional agitator...this consumer was not going to be fooled...went on Craig's list hoping to find a traditional washing machine...no luck, Went to google and found Speed Queen...not all appliance stores carry them. Sears does not. Found a store, liked the warranty, liked the agitator and purchased. I couldn't be happier!!!! My children's clothes are clean, the whites are white, the cycle is done quickly! I love having control of my water level. The warm water is actually warm, not cold as my front loaders. Do not fall for the \"he\" trap....say bye bye to the front loaders and fake top loaders. Say yes to the agitator! GE also offers a traditional top loader, but the reviews said it was very loud. This is not loud, nor does it move/jump in the spin cycle. Also, extra rinse option. I am thrilled witht this Speed Queen and highly recommend!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2261, "id": 41601, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 248, "len_tokens": 312, "text": "I always lived in rentals that had all of the lastest appliances, but the last time I moved, I sacrificed my usual demands to get into a place that met my pets' needs.  So, I spent a year washing dishes and hated every minute of it.  A neighbor told me about portables, and I took a look.  I was a little concerned that I wouldn't be happy with the dishwasher, but let me tell you--it's been several months and this is the best purchase I've made in the past year.  It cleans very, very well--works just as well as a new dishwasher that is operating properly.  I can't speak highly enough of it!\n\nI will tell you that I had a little difficulty setting it up initially--I couldn't get the aerator off to install the connector to the sink.  If you are a single woman and have not taken apart a sink before(which was my problem), the trick is to get some pliers and to turn the aerator the opposite direction than you would logicially expect.  My neighbor--another single woman--showed me what I was doing wrong.  Neither the vendor nor the manufacturer were helpful when I ran into problems--I was told to just return the unit.  The directions were also pretty unhelpful.\n\nOverall, I'm very pleased with the unit.  It looks great and works very well too.  If you are on the fence on this and need a dishwasher, I think you'll be pleased with your purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2262, "id": 88350, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2263, "id": 555040, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 328, "len_tokens": 395, "text": "I was at first skeptical to buy this range hood due to the following reasons:\n1) This model looks different from other regular range hoods with baffle filters.\n2) The range hood depth may not be enough to capture all the smokes and smells.\n3) I was not sure how well the self-cleaning will work by just squirting a cleaning liquid into the fan as shown on Zephyrs website\n4) I wasn't sure if its too cumbersome to unscrew the  grilles for cleaning\n\nI did tons of research and finally bit the bullet and purchased this range hood. I had a professional to install this hood along with the Broan 8 universal make up air damper kit. Its been a month and Im really very happy with this range hood. I cook a lot of Asian and Indian food and this hood is able remove all the cooking smell, smoke and grease. I no longer have to close the bedroom doors or open the patio doors when I cook.\n\nI tried the self-cleaning method and it works like a charm. Unscrewing the grill is a breeze and cleaning the grilles are very easy. I placed them in the dishwasher and there are no discolorations. I ran the hood in Q  Quiet mode and squirted 409 cleaning liquid around 35 times in each blower as per the recommendation. The detergent liquids were collected in the grease cups and they were brown in color. I did not feel any greasy / oily residue inside the blower fan (I tried this after switching off the hood).\n\nThis range hood is not very loud in the highest settings. Make sure to use either 8 or 10 galvanized steel duct. If you use less than 8 duct size then the hood will sound like a jet and may not function properly. I used the 8\" Zephyr wall cap outlet with screen and damper (AK00044). I'm not disappointed this this range hood.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2264, "id": 88406, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2265, "id": 87770, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2266, "id": 289639, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 297, "len_tokens": 333, "text": "IThese were delivered to me a couple of days ago and the smell was just terrible. I clean my unit once a week using diluted bleach to clean out the inside of tank and diluted white vinegar to clean scales from the area where the tank sits. I have had my humidifier for about a 8 months, use it on a regular basis, and had been buying these exact same filters from a brick and mortar store (Target to be specific) and have never had this occur before. I initially thought maybe it was just one bad filter so I went through the whole process of cleaning my humidifier again and then putting in the other filter that was delivered to me and within about 10 minutes the exact same awful smell. I immediately tossed the other filter as well drove to Target and bought another filter, cleaned out the humidifier again (just to be safe), and after that it was fine. I see other people have had very good results buying their filters through Amazon, but I do not think I will risk it again because obviously the filters that were sent to me were seriously compromised. I did not even bother trying to get a refund on them because the shipping costs to send them back would have been too much (in relation to how much I paid for them that is) and I bought them here more out of convenience than anything. I was not even going to write a review, but when I saw that  another person here had  experienced the exact same thing and stated that she had smelled \"an unrecognizable stench\"  I thought I would share what had happened to us as well. . Oh well, live and learn I guess.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2267, "id": 66807, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 267, "len_tokens": 323, "text": "This is a product that simply blew me away. Our dryer vent was pretty badly clogged, and I'd tried just about everything to open it back up. Vacuum hoses, a plumber's snake, an air compressor, etc. No dice.  I was about ready to go down in my crawl space and completely disassemble the dryer vent, a chore that I was not relishing at all, but it was either that or bite the bullet and call in some pros. As a last resort, I did an Amazon search, and came across this product. For $27 I really didn't hold out a lot of hope for it, but it came in today and I gave it a shot. I could not be more impressed! The combination of the short brush, the vacuum attachment, and the flexible rods did the trick. By the way, from the picture you may think that the rods are relatively stiff fiberglass (like cheap tent poles). That is not the case at all. They are actually a VERY flexible nylon or some such, and snake their way into the dryer vent really well.  The people who assembled this kit knew what they were about.  A really awesome product.  If I had any \"con\" at all, and it's a ridiculously minor one, it's that I had to use a pipe wrench to disassemble the rods when I was finished, as they get really tight with all of the torque they have to endure.  That's about it.  Great job!  I'm going to make a note on my calendar to use this every 6 months or so.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2268, "id": 361729, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 254, "len_tokens": 313, "text": "I love being able to wash laundry in my apartment instead of using on-site coin operated machines or the laundry mat.  I have a family of 4 and we cloth diaper!  This will wash half of what a regular washer will at one time but it's worth it.  My unit from walmart.com does NOT have a clear lid (I wish it did!), so be aware yours might not either when you order.  I bought the Haier dryer too, which takes 2 hours to dry on average- again, very worth it since I don't have to leave my home.\n\nTips: 1) Make sure the washer legs are aligned, otherwise it will be loud on the spin cycle, 2) The draining hose has to be at least 2 feet off the floor in order for the washer to operate correctly (it took me a lot of internet research to figure out why my washer was pumping in water and pumping it right back out), 3) Check the drain hose every. single. time.  A full 45 minute wash will fill a standard size bath tub.  Aka that's a lot of water if it happens to not be draining into the tub, 3) For cloth diapering: Do 10-12 diapers at a time, do one cold wash on regular 45 minute cycle, then again with hot water with a regular 45 minute cycle, then a quick wash on hot without soap, 4) Make sure to check your lease and get written approval from your landlord if you are renting!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2269, "id": 296645, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 315, "len_tokens": 385, "text": "This is my first dishwasher! I opted for a countertop, instead of a built in, due to not wanting to lose a cupboard. This little unit is smaller than I expected but so roomy inside!\n\nVery easy to hook up and the hoses are not as intrusive as I expected them to be. Everything attached perfectly to my sink with no leaks.\n\nJust finished my first load of dishes! Cleaned pretty quietly(low whirring noise and water gushy noises) definitely quiet enough to run during my toddler's naptime (he wakes up from handwash dishes! I clink too loudly in the sink I guess)  I'm so excited about this!!\n\n*The Night after writing my review, Update:\nI love this dishwasher so much. I've been rewashing dishes i had in my cupboards just to get that super clean feeling on everything (Something about having them go through, even the light cycle, makes me feel like they are sanitized better than I handwashed them. I hope i'm not giving myself a cleaning disorder! haha) Everything fits so nicely, pots and pans! Small cookie sheets, loaf pans. I can load this thing up so much more than I anticipated! It's amazing! Still no leaking!\n\nI've been going back and forth using Cold tap water and Hot tap water. (the instructions don't specify, but some reviewers say they use hot.) What i've found: Cold is fine for average dirty dishes. What that means is the dishwasher uses cold water for the rinse cycles and heats the water for wash cycles. Works just fine. Hot tap water works best for heavily soiled pots and pans that just need that extra heat in the rinses to get the grime off.\n\nWill update if I have a problem with it but so far it is perfect! I am so so so so happy with this purchase! BUY IT!!!!! YOU WILL NOT REGRET IT!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2270, "id": 340830, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 282, "len_tokens": 343, "text": "I live in an incredibly small apartment in a city where dishwasher machines are pretty much non-existent - I also have only one standard size sink and limited counter space in which to do dishes. I got this because doing dishes can be often times a labored project and hoped this would make life a twee bit easier....... It did! I have the dishwasher set on the counter next to the sink so, I dunk dishes into the soapy water bin (after rinsing first) or just let them soak a bit and then run it through the scrubby brushes, then rinse. I'm cruising through dirty dishes now and my sink is always clean and free of dirty dishes. I did remove the glass scrubber because it got in the way, I just use it independently for glasses and bowls.\n\nPROS:\n  Saves space if you only have limited counter space and one sink.\n  Allows you soak dishes and come back to them later.\n  Bristle cleaners are firm but, non-abrasive.\n  Easy to clean out each night before bed.\nCONS:\n  Plugs keep falling out (I filled mine in with epoxy and just pour it into the sink each night).\n  Bristles aren't long enough to do deeper dishes like bowls\n\nAll in all, I'll get another one when this one dies and would recommend to a friend. A little patience and learning how to work with this product (instead of against it) makes all the difference.\n\nEDIT: I really hate the spam I get for leaving FEEDBACK. Trust me, if I have anything to say, I will say it and don't need to be hounded in email about it........... Especially when I've already left feedback.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2271, "id": 101592, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 270, "len_tokens": 325, "text": "I have this one in Black...\n\nI just replaced a 15 year old Maytag that had been used approximately 6500 times with this one. My family loves to cook and uses a lot of dishes! (The dial controller degraded to only working on the glassware / china setting, but still worked.) I loved my old Maytag and wanted exactly the same features (steam clean, sanitizing cycle, heated drying, and high-endurance motor). BTW, I attribute the fact that it lasted so long to good quality workmanship and the fact that we never used any drying agents - all we did was put the detergent in and run it. And, this purchase was like going from an old reliable but clunky car to an updated zippier sports car. I opted for the stainless steel interior because what I noticed over time was the plastic interior (on the old one) seemed to get gouged and scratched and retained a slight odor. (We always prewash the dishes so that the disposal never really got clogged or anything). The control pad on the edge does take getting familiar with; it is not a deal breaker. It is super quiet, although the water intake is a little noisy and unnerving - it sounds like water is gushing all over the floor. It doesn't leak (like some people claim), and, the installation team did an EXCELLENT job. Finally, I love the new layout for the dishes and the little baskets. Again, it takes some getting used to - but all in all it's been sweet so far. Shop around because most stores will match competitors.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2272, "id": 456939, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 257, "len_tokens": 312, "text": "I would just like to warn you about this frig, which is the same base design as the PGSS5NFXSS except for the added water dispenser on the door.  It has the same problem as the one I bought, except for the opposite door having the closing problem.  I tried the PGSS5PJXSS at Best Buy to verify it.\n\nI bought the expensive GE 25 cu ft PGSS5NFXSS stainless frig with french doors and two bottom freezer drawers for my new home. The right door has to be slammed to close it when the left door is already closed. Whenever I go back to open the frig I notice it is sticking open, since it sticks at two points. It is a design flaw that two service techs have verified. I have been battling GE for more than a month to give me a different model/type frig that actually works with no luck so far. The customer service department goes through the motions but will not acknowlege the flaw and do the right thing. The best I can hope for is to get a replacement of the same model with the same problem.\n\nBe sure to test your GE french door frig in a showroom before making such a big purchase or you may regret it, like me. No other brands of french door frigs have this problem. The Maytag french door models, also sold under Whirlpool and KitchenAid brands, have a good reputation.  I have only actually tested the KitchenAid doors which close with no effort at all.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2273, "id": 88054, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2274, "id": 101748, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 315, "len_tokens": 374, "text": "I've had this unit for almost a week.\nI'm \"hand washing\" my clothes with this spin dryer with the Washing Wand by Easy Go Products. I can throw dripping wet clothes into this spinner and the clothes come out barely damp. I've placed clothes in the dryer dripping wet and where I've wrung out clothes. The same result...barely damp.  I was very impressed to notice that after the water has drained out of the unit through the hose and my clothes are out, the basket is bone dry!  And it holds more clothes than a portable washer with the small spin dryer basket.  I also like the fact that the drain hose, which stores under the bottom, can be placed on the right side or to the left side, depending on which side your sink is on. With a portable washer, most of the time the drain hose is on the right side.\nUnit is loud and struggles to spin IF overloaded. It will let you know if you've overloaded it. If that happens, just push the button to open the top and reposition or remove some clothes. When you first turn on the unit, it will shake a little until it gets into its rhythm. Once this happens, the unit is quiet and you can leave the room if you have it on a stable foundation. There are small suction cups that will anchor the bottom.\n\nToo bad this isn't available on Prime, so I did have to wait for the unit, but it came packed neatly with a small card of instructions and company info. I checked for fingerprints smudges, uncoiled plugs, missing parts, etc. to make sure it wasn't used and then sent to me. None of that. No funny smell... you know that smell I'm talking about with 90% of products coming out of China. I hope this product will last.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2275, "id": 341004, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 271, "len_tokens": 306, "text": "Thirty some years ago when we married we went shopping for the washer/dryer setup. Getting past the usual BS of the salesmen, I found one that knew his stuff. I had a good view of the reliability of the Speed Queen brand from my evenings at the laundromat. They worked well in that environment.\n I found from the salesman that the Speed Queens for retail were the same guts as the commercial laundromat machines. I paid somewhat more for the pair but I had a prejudice because of them being made in Wisconsin. (I prefer to keep the earnings at home rather than simply ignoring our fellow workers.) I would not have considered that unless I knew that the machines were reliable.\n The first set went on with no repairs excepting a v-belt for twenty two years. I wanted to take the old machines to my work to wash and dry the shop rags so that was a consideration to replace them with a new set of Speed Queens. I also wanted to satisfy the wife too.\n That was eleven years ago with not a single need for maintenance or parts on the latter pair. I cannot overstate just how reliable their machines are. You will save a lot of money by paying for the high quality up front and the extra cost is not all that much.\n You get an ultra durable transmission with solid steel gears rather than the failure prone powder metal type.\n At sixty-five,I'll be dead before I need to buy a replacement as I doubt that I will make it to eighty five years old.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2276, "id": 405522, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 277, "len_tokens": 331, "text": "Received well packaged and have had for 3 days now.  Plugged it in right away and the temp said 91 degrees (fresh off the FedEx truck and it was a warm day).  Set the internal temp at 40 and watched that puppy drop and get there in 30 minutes.  I have since lowered it to 39.\n\nWe had to flip the door to get the handle on the side we wanted.  Used a brand new razor to remove company logo on the glass and then just pushed it back on once the door was flipped (could've thrown it away, but what the hell).  The process to flip the door was an easy one as they include the hinges to do so.  Took less than 5 minutes.\n\nRuns quietly and the blue light inside is pretty cool at night.  We removed the bottom shelf for more height and I can fit 19 Bud Select bottles in that space.  The remaining shelves hold cans for us.  Each one in the picture where they lay flat will hold 12 cans - 3 deep and 4 across.  I'm actually surprised at the capacity for this being so small.\n\nOverall, it looks great and functions the way we want.  Used to be a wine fridge in that space but previous owners took it with them and this fits our family's needs better since we aren't wine drinkers.  Looking over all the reviews on these types of fridges gave me pause since they are such a mixed bag.  We bought the $34 3 year warranty but are hoping, obviously, that we never need it.  Will update the review if we do.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2277, "id": 128914, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 294, "len_tokens": 369, "text": "I've had the dishwasher for a little over two years as of the end of May, 2017. So far, the dishwasher itself is fantastic. Combined with Cascade Complete packs, it's done an excellent job of cleaning even the dirtiest dishes. My only issue has not been the dishwasher, itself, but what it does to the sink's side-sprayer.\n\nWhen the water is on, the entire system is pressurized, including your sink side-sprayer, and the faucet, the line to the dishwasher, etc. The sink side-sprayer is usually made of plastic, and is not designed to withstand that much pressure for long periods of time (even if you turn on the sink and walk away, the pressure is WAY less, because the pressure at the faucet opening is atmospheric). In the 26 or so months since I've had it, I've gone through three sink side-sprayers, usually leaking a little bit at first, then a little bit more, and then suddenly popping loose and spraying water all over the kitchen. If there was such thing as a sink side-sprayer with all-metal construction on the inside (not just the exterior casing. The valve mechanism needs to be 100% stainless steel, as well), then problem solved. But the plastic sprayers which are ordinarily sufficient for most normal use are quickly destroyed by trying to hold back the static water pressure of normal water lines. The item description makes a quick comment about this at the very end, but as most people don't have the means to re-plumb their apartment, it's a worthwhile warning which I haven't seen in any other review. Apart from that, all of the other reviews I've seen have been consistent and highly accurate, and I recommend the dishwasher over hand-washing, any day of the week!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2278, "id": 116430, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 273, "len_tokens": 330, "text": "Have had this washer for almost a year now, and have to say that we have no complaints.  I originally purchased a Samsung which had spin issues, and it went back to the store after the very first load would not spin.  I opted to get the Whirlpool after consumer reports rated it best, and for us, it has not failed.  Normally we only do a few loads per week, but recently, we've had to push things to the limit, and have been running several loads per day for a few weeks.  It handles towels, jeans, and blankets with no problem.  I even washed denim slip covers for our oversized sofa with no problems either.  The cycles stay true to their times, and it offers a fair amount of options to accommodate just about everything I would need.  While I do understand the frustration with ending up with a machine with problems (my Samsung experience), I would offer the following advice:  if you think you have a lemon, return it, and don't get caught up in the repair nightmare.  Repair service should be there to fix an occasional or inevitable problem, not to make a bad machine good.  And take an extended warranty.  And be kind to your appliances.  I must admit that I'm the type of person that has owned things for years that still look like new.  On the other hand, my husband is the type of person who owns things for a matter of minutes that already look years old.  It's why I don't let him do any laundry.  I do wonder sometimes if he does it on purpose.  :0)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2279, "id": 68579, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 322, "len_tokens": 385, "text": "1st of all I would NEVER purchase another BOSXH appliance against as long as I live.  We have had our BOSCH washer for 4 years.  Paid $1100 for this washer and 4 weeks ago it broke right before Christmas.  The door locked up as I was starting a load.  Made a terrible noise.  It does not come with a manual and guess what you can look HIGH and LOW but you will not find one that you can beg, borrow or steal from anyone.  We cannot find anyone who wants to work on it.  My husband is a Master Electrician and has torn this thing completely apart with the help of an online Technician Bosch website.  Do you know how hard it is to communicate with someone via sporadic messages back and forth.  We have no way of figuring out what or if any of the lights the are flashing really mean anything in the way of saying this is the error.  The online tech told us that the circuit board was burnt up based on the testing he had my husband complete.  He directed us to a website to order the part ( $160 ).  The circuit board arrives and guess what the machine not only has one circuit board but it has two and they both needed replaced ( another $175 ).  Still no action with the machine.  So he says now maybe the motor is burnt up but not sure.  So are we just suppose to order a new motor and God only knows what that will cost and if it is really the problem.  BELIEVE ME YOU DO NOT WANT TO PURCHASE THIS PRODUCT.  In addition every comment you have read about the mold and mildew around the gasket is TRUE.  There is also NO Way you are putting 15 pair of pants in this machine at one time unless it is 15 pair of underpants.  Stay away from BOSCH!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2280, "id": 87034, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2281, "id": 189491, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 274, "len_tokens": 355, "text": "I have a gas range and love it in the winter, but it heats the house too much in warmer weather. I decided to get a couple of induction burners. I bought a Max Burton 6200 and the Nesco PIC-14. My gas range has 2 power burners that boil water very quickly and require a constant watchful eye, and it has 3 regular burners that cook the way most people are used to cooking. The Max Burton 6200 is a good substitute for the power burners and the Nesco PIC-14 is a good substitute for the regular burners.\n\nThe PROS of the Nesco:\nLightweight and portable\nEasy to clean\nSettings are clearly marked on the unit\nIt is very quiet, especially compared to the Max Burton\nCooks similar to standard burners\nA bargain at $58- $35 less than the Max Burton\nIt does cook evenly when high quality induction cookware is used. LeCreuset tri-ply and LeCreuset anodized aluminum both perform well with no hot spots. However, I have Cooks Standard pans that are 5 ply clad that I thought were equal and found that there were hot spots that resulted in uneven cooking. This is not a problem with the burner, but a problem with the cookware.\n\nCons:\nDoesn't look as good as Max Burton\nDoesn't seem as well built as Max Burton (lighter, thinner, and lighter duty power cord)\nI am not deducting stars because the $35 price difference justifies the differences.\n\nI've used the Nesco more than the Max Burton because I actually prefer it in most applications. If you have high quality induction ready cookware, this is a perfect induction cooktop.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2282, "id": 72237, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 313, "len_tokens": 395, "text": "With this 4-prong cord, you can easily equip your dryer or stove to bring it into compliance with the most recent national electrical code.  Unlike the 3-prong plugs for small electrical appliances (whose three prongs are for the \"hot\" wire, the neutral wire, and the ground wire, respectively), the 3-prong plugs for stoves and dryers have prongs for two \"hot\" wires, and a single prong for both neutral and ground connections.  The new 4-prong plugs provide a prong for each of the two \"hot\" wires, and separate prongs for ground and neutral connections.  This decreases the likelihood of accidents.\n\nThe conversion is simple.  You must first unplug your dryer (do not forget this step!), detach the connection cover, and remove the strain relief clamp.  Then you should see that the three wires from the electrical cord are attached to three terminals within the appliance.  You will need to detach all of these wires and remove the 3-prong cord.  To install the 4-prong electrical cord, you need to locate the white (neutral) wire within the appliance and detach it from the ground terminal to which it is connected (usually with a green screw).  This internal white wire and the white wire from the electrical cord must both be attached to the center terminal.  The green wire from the electrical cord must be attached to the ground terminal from which you removed the internal white wire.  The black wire from the electrical cord should be attached to the left terminal, and the red wire should be attached to the right terminal.  Then you should re-attach the strain relief clamp and the cover.\n\nThis conversion should reduce the chances of electrical shock or worse.  The installation process is simple, and you should be able to use this cord with virtually any dryer.  Cords are available in different lengths--what you prefer will depend on your situation.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2283, "id": 87966, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2284, "id": 342875, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 260, "len_tokens": 322, "text": "It's a fun thing, which appeals to the craftier kids in my family.  The idea is that you put together these bead-like things, which bond with water, then put them for a spin in the Turbo Dryer.  Like another reviewer suggested, I think the dryer is somewhat superfluous, but it did add quite a bit to the fun factor...it also did keep the kids from messing with the sculpture/design/whatever while it was drying (they were instead frantically pushing the button seeing how fast they could spin the dryer), so there's that.\n\nFor my kids, this was a kind of involved activity, even with the templates...it took him about thirty minutes from start to finish to put a design together.  Part of the confusion was the colors of the blocks not always matching up with the colors on the template.  An older kid in the family tried making his own design without a template, but found it very difficult to get the design off the dryer without that template to help lift it out.  So yeah...read the instructions.  :)\n\nI like that there are some little accessories to go with the figures...for instance, a little axe for the Viking.  And yes, Minecraft fans will find a lot to like with this product.  The biggest issue we ran into (again, echoing another reviewer) is running out of blocks...fortunately there are refill kits, which also include additional templates.  Crafty parents could probably create blank templates for kids to create their own designs as well.\n\nIt's a good product that enables creativity...I like it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2285, "id": 463300, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 270, "len_tokens": 333, "text": "What a great looking unit -- too bad the sleek stainless steel outside hides a lousy inside!\n\nMy wife and I have been looking a more updated unit to replace our 15 year old electric range oven.  We thought we found a unit that was both functional, sleek and useful.  For the two months that the unit worked, it was actually a great range oven.  We found ourselves using the upper oven (although smaller of the two) more than 95% of the time.  It heated up quickly and baked evenly.  The stove top is also designed thoughtfully and the control unit, while not as advanced as some other units, was very functional and surprisingly intuitive to use.\n\nThe unit broke down after just two months of use (bought on Sep 10, 2010 and broke on Nov 4, 2010).  The unit shut down completely and when it re-powered, the \"door locked\" indicator was on. While the stove top was still functional, neither of the ovens were.  The GE technician looked at the unit for about three minutes, ordered a bunch of parts and left.  The follow up appointment was rescheduled by dispatch, without notification.  GE Customer Service was useless (but at least they all spoke English).  Now we're stuck without an oven for Thanksgiving holidays with family coming to town.  Will call the store we bought the unit from and see if we can return it.  Searching around there are more reports of control board circuit boards being \"fried\" by the oven, so this is not an isolated incident.  Do not buy this unit until the problem is resolved.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2286, "id": 121674, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 250, "len_tokens": 312, "text": "I purchased this dishwasher after carefully reading reviews off the internet less than 2 years ago.  We had it professionally installed.  The consumer reviews said it was quiet, and I believed that KitchenAid knew how to make a product.\n\nI do not understand how it got such great reviews.  It started off quiet, but didn't take long before it was as noisy as any economy dishwasher I have ever used.  Not only that, but on 3 occasions we have found puddles of water on the floor after running a cycle.  I fear that we are getting unseen damage to our flooring.  Finally, we pulled out the top rack to unload dishes, when the rack fell off the track.  Glasses and dishes fell down, many of them breaking.  It appears the plastic flanges that hold the wheels onto the rack failed (all but 1).  To get new \"adjusters\" will cost us over $50.\n\nIn addition to all that, you can't walk by the thing, or use the counter without turning it on.  We have been programed now to use the child-lock feature at all times.  It is very annoying to try to do some food preparation, then having your dishwasher turn on.  UGH!\n\nI had always purchased GE products for my kitchen, but this time I altered my choice because of the internet reviews.  Guess I will be going back to GE as soon as we can afford a new dishwasher.\n\nStay clear of KitchenAid, at least for their dishwashers.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2287, "id": 457208, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 242, "len_tokens": 301, "text": "My mom purchase this frig on June 26 and 39days later the frig stop cooling. Which means Brandsmart doesn't want to provide a refund or a replacement because its out of there 30day policy. I also spoke to Carol Housely at whirl pool's corporate office and said she will not replace the frig. This basically means that they do not stand by their product. She had the nerve to tell me she's a consumer as well and the same thing happen to her. I told her if that was the case she would do everything in her power to replace the frig if she new how it felt to be ripped off. She proceeded to tell me that it doesn't matter how many times the frig fails, they will not replace it. The only thing they will do is send out a repair guy. I asked what happens once the 1yr standard warranty is up. She suggested I get a extended warranty. Why would I want to give you more $. DO NOT GET THIS REFRIGERATOR. IN FACT, DON'T PURCHASE ANY WHIRL POOL PRODUCTS. I KNOW I WON'T WITH SUCH HORRIBLE CUSTOMER SERVICE. ALSO IF YOU HAVE A BRANDSMART IN YOUR AREA DON'T THINK ABOUT PURCHASING ANY BIG TICKET ITEMS THERE BECAUSE THEY WILL FAIL ON YOU. I know this because my mother keeps buying product from them and they keep failing on her. The rumor is that their stuff is refurbish!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2288, "id": 542354, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 240, "len_tokens": 311, "text": "I can't tell you how much I love this machine.  With the onslaught of \"eco friendly\" washing machines producing units that barely provide enough water to clean clothes, I'm so glad that Speed Queen makes this older, traditional unit.  We have had TERRIBLE experiences with the newer machines that have no agitators and use very little water.  My clothes were never as clean, and the whites?  What whites?? The were all turning dingy!  I put a tshirt on the top of a small load of laundry and put a black pen dot on the sleeve.  I then sat and watched the entire laundry cycle.  That tshirt NEVER MOVED!  By the end of the washing cycle, it had only JUST gotten wet, but never moved at all and the black dot remained.  This was with a $700 eco friendly machine.  What a piece of garbage.\n\nWe tried two different eco friendly machines that were recommended at both Lowes and Home Depot.  Awful.  Finally, an honest employee admitted that the newer machines that had no agitators received many complaints.  He himself would never buy them, and instead, recommended either a front loader or the Speed Queen (has an agitator, has water level control, and is a commercial unit).  It was more expensive, but boy it was amazing.  Back to having clean clothes again.  I would never, ever purchase a non-agitator machine again.  This machine is amazing and well worth every penny.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2289, "id": 419619, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 272, "len_tokens": 312, "text": "I recently purchased a new Kenmoore refrigerator back about a month ago.  I usually buy all my water filters from Amazon and stick with OEM filters but these things can get pretty expensive.  I found the Waterdrop Refrigerator Water Filter and decided to give it a shot.  The Waterdrop seems to be a little lighter in weight than a new OEM filter which I am not really sure what to give that credit for.\n\nI live in Florida and our water is pretty good for the most part.  I do know that our local city water does have a slight chlorine taste to it but that is about it.  I installed the new Waterdrop water filter in my new fridge and ran several gallons of test water through it to get any taste that may be from the new filter out of the line.\n\nSo far, I am not able to tell any difference with the water between using the Waterdrop and the OEM water filter.  I am not a scientist, so I don't know if it is really removing the items that it says it will be.  But I did see that the filter is tested and certified by the NSF to ensure that it meets a quality check.  So far, so good.  I will probably keep buying these in the future.\n\nDISCLAIMER:  I did receive this product at a discounted price in order to test and evaluate and provide unbiased feedback to both the seller as well as other Amazon buyers like you.  If you find my review informative and helpful, please remember to click YES that it was helpful.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2290, "id": 65563, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2291, "id": 101586, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 261, "len_tokens": 324, "text": "As part of our kitchen remodel, we selected all Bosch appliances - dishwasher, stove and refrigerator.  The dishwasher is so quiet that we sometimes wonder if it's really on (but the spotless dishes let us know that it really was).  The stove is beautiful.  Ah, but the refrigerator.  It's a good thing we held onto our old Kenmore side by side, because we haven't been able to use our new Bosch refrigerator at all.  Why?, you might ask - it's because the refrigerator side requires a full 18.25\" swing clearance to open the door to 160 degrees so that you can open the drawers.  When we first started spec'ing appliances, we saw nothing about this swing door clearance requirement, and only found it buried deep in the specs after trying to figure out why we couldn't open the doors, and after the unit had been delivered and installed.\nIt's a beautiful unit, but all we could get from Bosch customer support was that the unit needed that full 18.25\" swing clearance.  We've thought of pulling out the bottom drawer and replacing it with a couple of Fridg Binz, but I'm concerned that this might have deleterious effects on the compressor.  Any other ideas?\nWe've looked at other vendors' units since discovering this evident design flaw, and KitchenAid seems to address it well by having a cutout near the bottom of the door that allows the bottom drawer to open freely without opening the door past 90 degrees.  Bosch could get me back as a customer if they did the same!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2292, "id": 519098, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 258, "len_tokens": 303, "text": "We renovated our kitchen a few years ago and bought all new, stainless steel appliances. Our brand new range, refrigerator and microwave were all Samsung brand. After just 2 years, the oven's igniter switch blew so we had it repaired which was an expense of $200.+.  It is just 1 year  since the repair and the oven igniter is dead, again. At the time of the first repair, the repairman told me that this is the most common repair done on this model and to not be surprised if we have to replace it again down the road. Well this is a fool me once moment here. I will not be repairing this thing again! We bit the bullet and bought an LG to replace it. I bake special order specialty cakes and with a wedding order coming up in a few weeks, I need something more dependable. The center, oval burner has never worked properly either as only half of the burner outlets actually light, as well as the control knobs cracked where they attach to the stems that turn on the stovetop burners. I'd have to say of all the ranges I've owned over 30+ years, this one was the most expensive and clearly a lemon. And our Samsung microwave also bit the dust a few months ago as well. We replaced that too with an LG. I'll keep my TV's and cell phone of this brand but I want Samsung out of my kitchen! This was an expensive lesson and a big headache. NOT recommended.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2293, "id": 88190, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2294, "id": 191134, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 319, "len_tokens": 376, "text": "I've been using this hood now for about 6 months just about daily.  It was recommended that I install at minimum a 1200cfm hood to move air from my Thermador Pro Grand range however after extensive research and thinking about how often we would actually use the range at full power we decided 900cfm was plenty.  The installation was nothing out of the ordinary (I had my contractor arrange for pro installation during my kitchen remodel) and this hood has performed far better than expected, especially for the price.\n\nI like to roast a prime rib every now and then and before I had this hood it would set off the smoke alarm in my house and smoke/odor would be everywhere.  With this hood running on the highest setting there is no noticeable smoke and odor is much less and most importantly no more smoke alarm.\n\nFor everyday cooking we use the lowest setting and it clear smoke/odor no problem.  At the lowest setting I'd compare it to a standard bathroom fan in terms of noise.  It's definitely noticeable but certainly not so loud that we can't have conversations in the kitchen.  For the performance and what I spent I would recommend this to anyone, especially if you're looking to save a little money on a high end kitchen (my range was $8000+).  The stainless steel matches with all my appliances and the baffles couldn't be easier to clean.\n\nFinally, one of the LED bulbs started flickering recently and I called customer service.  A live person picked up and was able to send me replacements.  He also told me that the bulbs have since been updated from LED \"balls\" to LED strip lighting, which he said should last me forever.  This was at no charge to me and I am grateful to have purchased a product made in the USA with a company that stands behind it 100%.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2295, "id": 170654, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 286, "len_tokens": 338, "text": "My order was received in a timely manner and was a perfect match for the defective timer.  The price was appealing when compared to what my local appliance store was charging for this part.\n\nI electrically diagnosed the problem on my Roper dryer and chased it down to the timer.  I had to do extensive disassembly to my dryer in order to thoroughly diagnose the problem.  If you disregard the time it took to do all of that, the timer itself only took about 10 minutes to replace and confirm proper operation.\n\nMy online research on this part leads me to believe it is a frequent failure item.  Maybe I know why.  Days after my dryer was fixed, I decided to disassemble the old defective timer to find the root cause.  I expected to find a burnt or broken contact.  Upon disassembly I discovered there are three plastic cam discs that rotate when you turn the setting dial.  They also rotate as the timer motor runs.  These three cams activate several different switch contacts as the cam lobes rotate.  The problem with my old timer was the retaining tab on the white cam had broken off causing the cam to come out of position.  This explains my troubleshooting difficulty as sometimes switches would activate and other times they would not.  Anyway, with three drops of crazy glue I was able to re-secure the cam.  I've reassembled the timer and saved it for the next time the timer fails.  The first one only lasted about 4 years.  I wish now I had disassembled the old timer and fixed it before ordering a replacement but that's not meant to be a negative reflection on the new replacement part.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2296, "id": 88074, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2297, "id": 232784, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 312, "len_tokens": 376, "text": "This repair kit apparently fits a wide range of dryers. However, I can confirm the components I received were an exact match for Frigidaire Gallery Heavy Duty Precision Dryer Model #: 417.59012890 - on the off chance you happen to have a similar model.\n\nI have average mechanical skills and the entire process took me approximately 3 (non-rushed) hours to complete. By far, the most time consuming step was the adequate removal of the warn felt drum glides and glue. I ended up following the advice of other reviewers here and used a rotary wire brush attached to a drill to greatly speed up the removal. All other steps were very easy. Also, having the dryer disassembled was a great opportunity to vacuum out all the dust bunnies that had accumulated over the years.\n\nAs other reviewers have noted (and I highly recommend), you should search you tube for the video - \"Installing the Dryer Maintenance Kit - Frigidaire Dryer Repair (part #5304461262)\" - and watch it prior to attempting this repair. Although the kit comes with complete instructions, the video makes the entire process much more straightforward and the printed instructions unnecessary. I also highly recommend visiting the site that produced the video; Repair Clinic. It's a fantastic site full of excellent information and a wide product offering for appliance repair.\n\nMy dryer is over 15 years old and the drum had become so loose that clothing was getting caught/discolored in the gap and it was making a loud squeaking noise as the drum rotated. I was certain it was time to buy a new dryer. But because the price point on this repair kit was so great, I decided to give it a shot. The repair turned out to be relatively easy - and wow, what a savings! All things considered, I really couldn't be happier with this purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2298, "id": 102483, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 284, "len_tokens": 360, "text": "UPDATE: Some people say it gets too cold.  Many people say it doesn't get even reasonably cold when cranked to the coldest setting.  The reality is that the thermostat they put in this thing is a miscalibrated piece of junk.  Thankfully, it's easy to fix.  As others have pointed out, remove the cover to the thermostat on the back then adjust the screw on the LEFT side hidden behind the single ground connector.  It is the one on the SIDE, NOT THE TOP.  Counterclockwise makes it colder and clockwise makes it hotter.  The screw on the top is wrong, and if you unscrew it enough something comes apart inside and won't go back together (don't know what that did... so far it seems ok but I'm worried I caused a problem I haven't yet discovered).\n\nORIGINAL POST: Doesn't get cold.  Had it out of the box in a 70-degree room for 24-hours now, set to the coldest setting.  I have a digital thermometer inside and it has been right at 49 degrees for the entire time.\n\nAlso note that in 2017 the fridge light can either be always-on or always-off, and is a blue bar of LEDs near the front.  That's changed over the years, clearly.  The manual clearly says that due to efficiency standards there's NO option to have the lights come on only when the door is open.\n\nOh, and it's really not loud.  Not quiet, but not loud.  And for the love of god, if it arrives damaged, return it already; Amazon is great with returns and there's no reason to complain about it in the review... between the carrier and Amazon, you have no idea how it got damaged.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2299, "id": 265238, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 275, "len_tokens": 329, "text": "I live in a tiny house with no diswasher.  One day something snapped and I decided I was tired of doing dishes and I began the search for a portable dishwasher.  I owned a portable dishwasher in the past that worked out well, so this was not really a scary venture for me.  I have no idea why I it took so long for me to get the idea and reinvest.  Now I'm not sure how I lived all this time.  Because it's just me and my son half time, the size is perfect and it holds a surprising amount of dishes.  Obviously it would have to be run more often, but I could see this working out just as well for a \"normal\" sized family.  It runs quietly.  I do not have to admit that I am pretty anal and I rinse my dishes very well prior to putting them in the diswasher.  Sorry I am not a proper judge of how the dishwasher does with caked on dishes.  However, since I rinse so well, I'm able to use the Light cycle and I am always pleased with the way they come out.  The few unrinsed \"testers\" that I've put in there have more than passed the test.  In addition to the obvious purpose of cleaning your dishes, the additional counter space is a nice bonus.  The only hair splitting negative that I would give the dishwasher is the fact that the bottom rack doesn't like to stay out.  It always slides back in while trying to load or unload.  My spoon holder that sits next to the stove now doubles dishwasher rack stopper.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2300, "id": 493271, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 280, "len_tokens": 324, "text": "I love my Panda!!!! I live in a 530 sq ft apartment with on-site laundry facilities. I hook it up to my kitchen sink faucet and it drains in the sink. I use my Panda for underwear, shirts and loads that require bleach. I have washed jeans in it but it was just too much trouble because you can only do one pair at a time and pulling them out, makes a wet mess all over when you put them in the spinner. Since there is no post in the center when it spins, clothes with straps can get tangled together but it's not that big of a deal as the convenience of the product outweighs that. Even when using those net laundry bags this happens. Delicates and clothes with embellishments (beads, sequins, etc) may be damaged as the wash cycle doesn't play around. When it spins, it spins very fast in both directions alternately. So even though this is a compact washer, it really isn't for delicates.\n\nThe lint filter kept falling off after only a few loads, so I just leave it out and pick out the lint by hand. Thankfully it doesn't weigh that much because I have to lift it onto my counter top so the water can drain fully before I store it in my closet.\n\nThis is such a great product that everyone should own one. It saves on water and soap and it can be humbling as you become much more intimate with your laundry as you control the wash, drain, rinse and \"drying\" of your clothes just like developing countries do.\n\nI hope you enjoy your Panda as much as I do!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2301, "id": 454625, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 265, "len_tokens": 317, "text": "We used this to replace two traditional low wattage wireless switches. This works like the low power ones  that are sold in Home D**** & L****, you know the big box stores, except this is designed to handle the wattage needed for a garbage disposal. It is about the same price as the cheap wireless controllers.\n\nMy garbage disposal is rated at 1/2 horsepower. In two years I went through two of the cheap ones before switching to Mr. Scrappy.  Mr. scrappy has worked great for two years and actually has made my disposal run faster!  It takes longer to install the remote's battery than it does to install the complete unit.\n\nI am so pleased I added one to control my air compressor which is in my basement from my garage where the compressor hose is located.\n\nBe aware 1) that remotes are designed for items that are built for being always on so Mr. Scrappy controls it all. My compressor has an on off button, so I start the compressor and select the desired pressure from the basement and turn it off from the garage.  In the past I would forget to turn it off and the compressor would start and run for a few minutes several times during the day and night; NOT with Mr. Scrapp. And 2) it like many new items requires a special battery size A23, not expensive just mercury free.\n\nAs you can tell I am stocked about Mr. Scrappy!\n\nThere are other high power remotes but they cost 4 or 5 times as much as Mr. Scrappy!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2302, "id": 88002, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2303, "id": 420276, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 290, "len_tokens": 338, "text": "I've always bought the \"official\" GE branded MWF water filter for my refrigerator but no longer. I decided to take a chance on this one - it appears to be exactly the same design and construction quality as the GE brand.and it sells for only 31% of the price of the official one! It installs the same. The only difference that I could discern was this one comes with a little sheet of stick on month labels that tell the user when it was installed. I'd always written the date of the install on the outside of the filter. Then, when I went to screw it in, most of the time the date would end up pointed toward the back of the refrigerator. The only way I could check the date was by getting out my little mechanics mirror to check it. With the stick-on labels, it's easy to install the filter and THEN apply the month sticker so it is pointing toward the front!\nI was concerned by one review that said his \"leaked\" and the poster was having issues with the vendor. I can state that I've had no indication of any leaks at all. This fits the same as the GE brand in my refrigerator.\nI can't understand why I should pay GE $41.49 for what is essentially the same thing. When you consider the GE says to replace it every 300 gallons of water (who measures these things?), and this one cuts to the chase and just says \"replace in six months\", why not save the extra money?  I figure I'm ahead by about $28.50 every six months. That's enough to take the wife out to a movie and popcorn. Everybody wins with this water filter!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2304, "id": 127257, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 260, "len_tokens": 300, "text": "Actually this is my first time buying items from amazon, it is a very good experience! This seller has the super fast shipping process. I receive the hood in only two days.the hood has very good protection out side to avoid physical damages, when I take it out, it is really a beautiful hood. $200 to buy a range hood, I have not think to much, just trying to get a hood that is okay to use, but this hood just too good, way better than my expect. Nice stainless steel and clear glass, there is a little curve on the front of the chimney makes the hood a good looking. My contractor told me this hood use very good filter, it's all made with stainless steel, very easy to clean, he told me those filter was using on commercial use, it is much easier to clean than the regular aluminum filter. This hood is also very powerful, my old hood that purchased from home deport is only 400 CFM which is really too weak for a heavy cooker. This new hood can reach up to 860CFM which is double the power of my old one. Finally can keep all the cooking smokes away. Vey installation, I think I can install it with our my contractor's help, you can do it by yourself if you want to save some money! Well will highly suggest ppl to buy this hood, I am also remodeling my bathroom, will definitely come back to buy shower panel and tub from you guy! Good products!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2305, "id": 87390, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2306, "id": 459116, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 291, "len_tokens": 363, "text": "Once I decided I wanted an induction cooktop, I looked at all the options on the US market, including those that cost twice as much as the Miele and decided this was the one I wanted.  Reasons why:  Miele was highly rated on several websites.  The cooktop was a brilliant solution to two problems I was concerned about: \"rimless\" cooktops had the tempered glass surface sitting on top of the countertop, and I was concerned that it could sustain a chip or even a crack if whacked too hard by some countertop sideways accident.  However, when I looked at the induction cooktops with stainless steel rims at my local appliance store, where NO cooking takes place, I saw that the rims, which could be as much as an inch wide, were scratched.  Miele has a tiny vertical stainless steel rim with no horizontal surface to scratch.  I love that feature.  I also like the placement of the burners, with the biggest and most powerful in the front and the smallest (perfect for my tea kettle or for melting butter) in the back center.  And finally.....using an induction cooktop provides instant gratification.  Water boils quickly, and at the lowest setting I can finally leave a thick soup to keep warm without any worry about burning at the bottom of the soup pot.  I went from a strong advocate of gas cooktops for their versatility and fairly instant heat control to finally having a cooktop that really gave me instant control.  Finally, if you get distracted by a phone ringing or the doorbell, just take your cookware off the \"burner\" and the latter shuts off automatically.  You don't have to fumble around getting a burner turned off.  Just lift the pot and GO!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2307, "id": 88968, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 334, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "in july of 2010  my $1000 wash machine decided to die!!!! several months before i had to have the master control board replaced and they did it for free but not long after it was continued non stop problems...when the repair man was there he said my machine was rusting from the inside out and that the top plastic ring on the tub that has the dispenser cups was rubbing its self away and that the balance rods were going to need replaced at some point..the week it died i  fought with it constantly . it started to sound like a jet taking off in the basement. and made the house vibrate!!it was throwing constant F1 codes and unl codes.  when it finally died . i had leveled it of 6 times in half hour. finally ended up taking all clothes out of it but 2 shirts and seeing if it would finish cycle..it started to roar and bounced across the floor and popped the latch on the lid and made a funny noise and that was it . i called whirlpool for 4 months and got no where...my husband finally found us a used washer so we could have clean clothes and we spent that 4 months posting how horrible this machine is and trying to get help. it has spent the last year under the stairs as we figured we had better keep it until we could become part of a class action. whirlpool need to replace this machine as they knew they were junk!!!! when i called repair men they told me to look at it was going to be $500 and it was cheaper to buy a new machine as the cabrios were junk and no one wanted to work on them. they were beyond a bad design.. lord only knows how many parts on this thing need replaced??? and to think we took out a loan to buy new appliances and got screwed!!!!  tracie jordan morse bluff nebr", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2308, "id": 88122, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2309, "id": 95502, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 275, "len_tokens": 313, "text": "I thought I would give this a try since I can get 2 of these for the price of 1 Samsung filter. I haven't had any of the issues that some users have stated.\n\n1)Some users stated that it leaked - I made sure to put the O-ring lube on as the directions indicated\n2)Some users stated that it wouldn't fit properly - I did have to move my sliding shelf out to put the filter in, unlike the Samsung filter which I could put in without doing that (not a big deal, unless your shelf does not slide)\n3)Some users stated that it would not align and screw in correctly - I looked at my original Samsung filter to see how it aligned and I just copied that when putting it in.\n\nIt looks to be about the same as far as dimensions, however, this replacement filter is much lighter, which leads me to believe cheaper materials, but I really don't know. There is a funny taste initially, but it's the same with the regular Samsung filter. I made sure to run a few gallons through initially. We are light water drinkers, but it's been about a month and the taste is clearing up.\n\nOverall for the value, I think this is a great replacement for those who want to save money. I gave it 4 starts because it is not an exact replica for Samsung's quality and ease of replacement. But if you follow the 3 steps above, you will have no problems with it from the start. I plan on continuing to buy this product for water filter replacement", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2310, "id": 282551, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 201, "len_tokens": 333, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R2GFTH600BAR2D\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/E1qtHLOLKPS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1fXqiKksyS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;My wife and I live in a 36ft RV year round.  We were buying ice almost daily and taking up most all of our (small) freezer space.  We bought this tabletop ice maker and use it pretty much daily.  We are up to preparing 2 one gallon size bag of ice cubes in the summer and keep 1 one gallon size bag available in the winter.  It takes up little space on our table and has been a work horse for us.  We like the size of the cubes, and the ease of starting a batch of ice at any time.  Just fill the water up to the fill-line and turn it on.  The clean up is just as easy.  We drain the excess water out and wipe out the interior when we need to.  We recommend this product to anyone.  We have had it close to a year now and never had a problem with its operation.  We are not sure what other people have had, because it had 3 1/2 stars when we bought it. but our experience has been perfect.  No mechanical problems at all.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2311, "id": 59730, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 284, "len_tokens": 364, "text": "I was totally duped by the store I bought this from.  I was told it was \"like those washers high capacity washers at the laundromat!  Just stuff as many clothes as you can and let 'er rip!\".  Ha.  A third of the clothes don't even get wet when it is stuffed.  I learned over time that the less clothes the better....way less.  It doesn't matter if there are 10lbs of clothes or 10 ounces....it uses the same amount of water.  The drum spins one direction for two or 3 rotations and stops for so long that I thought it quit working.  Then it reverses directions and stops.  Then repeat.  It takes longer to wash a load of clothes than it does to dry them!!  Totally ridiculous.  If you are in a hurry....like maybe need your clothes washed in less than an hour....that's just when the washer finishes and does not count drying....use the hand wash cycle.  The comments about the mold are completely true.  What a disgusting mess.  Whoever the environmentally conscious engineer who designed this horrible piece of equipment ought to be shamed out of the business.  It may not use as much water but clothes look horrible and the black mold growing in the door cannot be good.  I am going to junk this piece of metal and go buy some old lady's washer with an agitator.  The dryer isn't any better except that it forced me to install a retractable clothesline....which I purchased from Amazon....and I don't even bother with the dryer any longer which probably suits the environmentalists who are behind these horrible ideas just fine.  I sure hope Bosch doesn't make toilets.  I can only imagine the nightmare.....", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2312, "id": 450907, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 270, "len_tokens": 353, "text": "Perfect for wall mounting a 3 prong 30 amp 240 outlet.  I actually used it with a generator extension cord so I can run my water heater in a power outage.\n\nThe package includes some 3/4 inch long screws that you could use to mount the unit to plywood.  Also, it brings cable clamping mechanism to bring in and secure a large cable, such as SOOW cable via the bottom punch out hole.  I used 10/4 SOOW, however, 8/4 would have fit no problem.  Might even be able to get 6/4 in there.\n\nThe backplate has a pre-tapped ground screw hole, and suitable for use with a pigtail.  The terminations for the hots and neutral feel very robust and secure.  Plenty of room for 10 gauge wire.  Probably can fit up to 6 gauge.  Plenty of room inside to bend wire and make it all fit without struggle.  This does make the overall size a bit large, but this was not a con for me.  When its all put together, it does feel fairly solid, even for extension cord use.  I would not abuse it, though.  It is not that tough.  Also, this is not water proof at all.  I did not expect that it was, so it is not a con.\n\nI have installed dozens of these over the years.  I think this one is the best.  Also, it is the cheapest, includes the clamp, and easiest to fit the wires inside.  The only downside is that it is larger than others, although not much larger.  If its in the utility room, you are probably not going to care.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2313, "id": 537997, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 272, "len_tokens": 351, "text": "Great washer, but effectively has NO WARRANTY:\nI bought one of these \"RCA\" washers from Walmart, along with an extended warranty from Asurion. Absolutely worthless:\nCurtis International, the licensee of the RCA name, provides a \"warranty\" with the washer, but all of the contact information for the warranty is a toll-free number that is answered in India, and they DO NOT HAVE ANY INFORMATION OR SUPPORT OR ABILITY TO PROVIDE ANY SERVICE for washing machines. They will give you another phone number which reaches RCA TELEPHONES. And, if you call back again, they will give you another number for RCA TELEVISIONS. But, they have nothing else and will do nothing else. So, if you need warranty service (1-year warranty), it is IMPOSSIBLE TO GET.\nAsurion, which provides the 'extended warranty coverage' will complete the useless loop: they will say they're sorry, their coverage only applies AFTER the manufacturer warranty is over, and since it is under manufacturer warranty, they can't help - they can give you the phone number to the Indian call center that says they never heard of RCA washing machine nor can they provide service for it.\n\nSo, if you want to buy a washer that effectively has no warranty, go for a Curtis/RCA!\nBy the way, these washers are also sold with the 'Magic Chef' brand name, and MIDEA which is the actual Chinese manufacturer.\nI also called Midea, but they claim the machines branded 'RCA' are not theirs and offer no support or service - they do say if you have a 'Midea' branded machine, they will 'attempt' to find someone locally to provide the warranty service.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2314, "id": 364782, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 339, "len_tokens": 392, "text": "Extremely pleased with my purchase. I researched reviews and went in person to the big box stores before deciding on this range. I've put in my time with apartment style ranges, and upon finally finishing our kitchen I am so glad to have the commanding centerpiece be a substantial piece of equipment that will stand the test of time. Trying to not be a snob, I had considered getting a Samsung or Bosch because it would be the same brand as my dishwasher or refrigerator. I went to the stores to get a feel for them and they were cheap feeling with an insane amount of useless options, even for a seasoned self described foodie chef. I thought, \"why invest almost 2k in something that doesn't thrill me?\" So I splurged on a new brand and the 36\" range purchasing sight unseen from China. Hoping it would live up to the reviews I had read and anxious for its arrival, my dreams were fulfilled the day it arrived. I had also debated between the Thor brand and this and opted for the Kucht. My decision came down to the weight on specifications. The Kucht weighed 50 lbs more and so I examined the photos more and discovered that the grates were a lot more substantial on the Kucht. I figured if the same size range weighs 50 lbs more, it must have a lot better quality metals in construction. The interior is smartly designed, accurate temp control too. The only quirk I've noticed after heavy use for an month is that the simmer burners click and complain so to speak if you try to simmer on the high powered center burner. But when you use it as designed, there are no problems. After a month I am thrilled with my purchase and would buy again in a heartbeat. Performs as well as a Wolf Thermador or Viking at a fraction of the cost. Also, extremely easy to clean- love the black background. Knobs feel heavy duty and expensive.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2315, "id": 87350, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2316, "id": 100520, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 295, "len_tokens": 363, "text": "Maybe if I had the spin drier, no cat, a full sized shower, and loads of time to hand scrub all stains, then this would be worth it. As it is... Not so much. Here's why.\n\nI read all sorts of reviews and watched youtube videos before purchasing this through The Laundry Alternative's website. It is more unsteady than the videos showed. I worry that it will break while I'm turning it. And about stains. One older review states that the Wonderwash doesn't remove stains, and then other people replied say that he must not have pre-treated. Well, I had a light stain, so I not only pre-treated with Shout, but (after letting that sit for about five minutes) pre-soaked in hot water for over twenty minutes. Then washed it in the Wonderwash. It didn't come out. I then lightly hand scrubbed it, and it came out right away. So even though the clothes smell nice after, I won't be able to use it for even the most lightly soiled clothes unless I want to scrub each item by hand. Oh, and unless you tighten the lid VERY well it will leak like crazy.\n\nI have a very small apartment with only a stand up shower stall. My kitchen is too tiny. So it is very awkward to crouch in the corner of the bathroom cranking, then lean over to hand-wring everything.\n\nOn a side note, I have a cat, and the lack of a spin drier (I'm too broke to spend another $68+shipping) means that all that cat hair is still on all my clothes. A normal clothes drier will remove a great deal. I know, that's just the way it is but it was still surprising to see all that hair on everything!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2317, "id": 62666, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 275, "len_tokens": 333, "text": "Talk about a huge mistake, our purchase of this GE Induction Cooktop is the personification of \"mistake.\"  It can be an installation nightmare for starters if you have to modify your cabinet opening to accommodate it, which may be likely.  If you have drawers beneath your present cooktop you will loose them if nearer than 12\" from the bottom of this unit.  Worst of all, you may have only a 50/50 chance of the unit being 100 % functional out of the box.  Ours wasn't, largest burner was dead.  If you should live outside of GE's direct service area as we do, you are probably S.O.L. in terms of any hope of a qualified repair technician with immediate access to repair parts to actually perform warranty work.\n\nUPDATE:\nGE Customer Care has done their best to come up with someone to perform warranty repair on our cooktop.  Problem is the service provider cannot get to it for another three weeks and they estimate that what ever repair parts that will be needed will take another one to two weeks if they are not back ordered.  Bottom line, crippled cooktop for roughly six weeks and a kitchen that is a total mess due to having to leave cabinet area beneath the cooktop free of pots and pans.  NOTE:  error codes on this unit imply that the issue is with the controls touch pad.  It's a real shame their Q.C. folks let this thing get out without working properly.  For those thinking these things are made by Bosch, they are produced in a GE plant in Georgia, whether Bosch manufactures any of the components is anyone's guess.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2318, "id": 128756, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 256, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "I bought this when my built-in regular-sized dishwasher conked out.  I live alone, I work; therefore, a smaller unit is better suited to my needs.  And with a portable unit, I don't have to worry about the dangers of frozen pipes, plumbers, and expensive replacement costs for a regular  large-sized machine.  (I plan to remove it later, and right now I'm using the crapped out large unit for storing pots and pans in the interim! It is now a cupboard!)  Set-up on this smaller _ and portable_ machine was no problem at all; the machine is quiet and easy to operate.  I don't put my pots and pans in it, but all my cups utensils and plates fit just fine. What I do with the pots is rub them with a brillo pad, and then I sit them in my sink basin, where the run-off from all of the cycles of the portable dishwasher that's taking care of the regular dishes rinses off the pots and pans placed in the basin and underneath the faucet - and voila, one quick rinse afterwards with a sprayer of the pots and pans outside of the dishwasher, done manually after all is said and done, and the pots and pans as well as the other dishes are all easily taken care of.  Anyway, works great for me.  And I can't believe how quiet this machine is.  The dishes washed in the machine are spotless and gleaming. By the way, the machine was packaged very well.  Lots of smash-proof insulation.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2319, "id": 485426, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 310, "len_tokens": 387, "text": "I actually have the Model ADG3RG which lacks the middle knob & has one less feature.  I couldn't find that exact model here.  I purchased the dryer (along with the Speed Queen washer) at \"Waadt Appliances.\"  The warranties on Speed Queen products are much longer than other brands & their products are commercial-quality washers & dryers found in laundromats & apartment complexes.  Washing & drying clothes should be simple & computerized lights & features are not needed and (in my experience), they are a source of expensive service calls when they fail.  I first shopped at Sears & the salesperson told me what I already suspected - that I would be lucky to get three to five years out of a typical brand-name washer & dryer, such as Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, GE, etc. (Yes, the Maytag man is not so lonely anymore).  My previous Kenmore lasted more than 20 years but those days are long gone.  After doing some research, I've found that Speed Queen products have an average life of 22 years.\n\nAfter several loads, I can say that this dryer works very well.  I love the way the door opens completely so it is totally out of the way when loading & unloading the dryer - as if there is no door at all. The door is also reversible if you prefer to open it from the other side.  There is one feature that concerned me when I checked out the store display model.  This is the only dryer I've ever seen that has a non-removeable lint screen.  To clean it, you simply scrape the lint off with a brush, rag, or your hand.  The lint screen seemed small, compared to the longer pull-out types I'm accustomed to, but it did the job, and you have to clean the lint screen after each load on any dryer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2320, "id": 87554, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2321, "id": 379568, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 255, "len_tokens": 315, "text": "I've had this a few months, so I can't comment on reliability. This is the same as the Edgestar according to the manual, except the Edgestar has a digital panel. I would recommend spending the extra money for the Edgestar so you can determine when the load finishes. My apartment is a few floors and I'm not always present to hear the tone when it's finished.\n\nThat said, this functions like a normal dishwasher. You have six settings, and it has three filters for those of us who don't have garbage disposals. It works well with the dishwasher detergent I use (a Finish product). I've had no dirty dishes after using it on the normal setting, nor any spotting.\n\nThere are a few things to be mindful of:\n\nWhile it *can* clean 10\" plates, I wouldn't have more than 9\" for ease of sliding in and out and having more space.\n\nIt's heavy: make sure you have someone to help you carry it!\n\nMeasure the space it will go in. It's sizable and will consume a fair amount of counterspace.\n\nThis shouldn't be used by more than 2-3 people. The absolute max it can use is 6 place settings, so if you have a big bowl or pots and pans, your available space drops fast.\n\nMy only complaint is that it does not dry the dishes completely. My lazy solution: open the dishwasher and pull the rack out. I love that I haven't washed all my dishes by hand recently--it's a huge time saver.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2322, "id": 180939, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 300, "len_tokens": 379, "text": "I've used lots of different double burner ranges, and I've always found that only one burner is ever capable of getting really hot, while the other burner is only good for simmering.  With the Delfino, both burners are capable of getting super-hot.\n\nInfrared is similar to induction in that it heats up very quickly, is energy-efficient and allows for precise temperature control.  The key difference as far as I'm concerned is that, unlike induction which only works with magnetic pots, any kind of cookware works with infrared.  Also, induction cooktops are far more expensive.\n\nI really like the fact that the two burners are the same size; this means I can use a 10\" skillet on one burner at the same time as a large pot on the other.  Using smaller pots isn't a problem; the smallest one I have is only 5.5\" in diameter but the handle didn't even get hot when I used the pot to bring water to boil.\n\nI wavered about subtracting a star for the build quality.  One of the feet came off when I unboxed the cooking range, but I was able to screw it back on.  I then gave the cooktop a good wipe with a damp papertowel before using it for the first time because there's a bit of offgassing when it's first switched on.  I just opened the windows and it didn't take long for the smell to dissipate.\n\nAfter trying all the settings and putting the cooktop through its paces, I'm very impressed.  Being able to cook at high heat on both burners is a big deal, since this is the only stove I have.  Another thing I'm really pleased about is that the bottom of the range doesn't get hot, so there's no danger of harming the kitchen countertop.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2323, "id": 503887, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 292, "len_tokens": 384, "text": "The hood looks very nice.  The build quality is excellent, but it was put together by a 16 yrs old kid.\n\nIssues:\n1. The motor has 4 hangers made from flimsy metal. They use a #6 screws about 3/8 length to secure this heavy motor to the mounting bracket (also flimsy).  The motor hangers do not align perfectly to the mounting bracket.  Guess what the assembler did?  They forced the screw in, and  the screw ripped through the motor hangers and bent the mounting bracket.  The screw was basically dangling with no grab force causing the motor to sag down.  I had to fix it but couldn't close the gap.  I had to use metal duct tape to seal it off.\n\n2. The ECO mode does not work.  When it activated, all I hear is a high pitch sound and the motor is not spinning.  When I manually tapped the motor fins by hand, then the fan would work and the high pitch sound went away.  It looks like the control board doesn't send enough electrical current to the motor.\n\n3. The baffle do not line up in the front.  They could have designed them with two hooks instead of one.\n\nWith all these issues, how could the QA technicians (3 of them) signed their names on the defective product?  1st inspector: Leak Test ; 2nd inspector: Performance Test; 3rd inspector: Final Inspection.  How could the leak tester missed the leak caused by the motor/bracket alignment?  How could the performance test missed ECO mode malfunction?  How could the final inspector missed the bad motor mounting?\n\nThis is a product designed and built in Japan?  Now I have to live with the defective product.  I bought the RA9236SQB-1. It isn't cheap either.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2324, "id": 178217, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 260, "len_tokens": 301, "text": "Our Maytag Dishwasher slowly started having issues cleaning dishes as well as it used to. It's only 2 years old and not a cheap model. We were puzzled until one day we noticed the machine sounding odd and the top rack of dishes looking as if they were barely touched with water.  Investigation showed something was stopping water flow and all we were now getting was a stream of water at perhaps half the force on the bottom rack and no water was making it to the top sprayer. We were puzzled but it clearly was the \"not cleaning well enough\" problem getting far worse.\n\nAfter doing some online research we found others had problems like this caused by the \"Chopper Assembly\".  We then watched a video online on how to find it.  Sure enough, the \"blade\" on ours had somehow broken off entirely and the screen was FULL of food waste.  We cleaned it up (fun!) and then tried to reattach the blade to no avail.\n\nIt was clear this broken blade and screen full of waste was blocking water flow.  We searched online and the lowest price we could find including shipping for one was over $20.  It did not occur to us to look on Amazon for appliance parts but we did at the last second and low and behold, here it was... at a MUCH lower price with free shipping!\n\nIt arrived yesterday and within 10 minutes we were able to easily install it to replace the broken one and were up and running again.  Thrilled!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2325, "id": 235813, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 212, "len_tokens": 311, "text": "I bought this hub nut as a replacement part when replacing the mode shifter assembly on my 7-year-old GE profile washing machine.  The part  was a genuine GE replacement part in the original GE packaging.  The cost was substantially lower than my local appliance parts store.\n\nNote that this nut has a backwards thread.  You loosen by rotating clockwise and tighten by rotating counter-clockwise.\n\nIf you are buying this part, the one thing I recommend highly is that you buy the TB123A spanner wrench:\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Clothes-Washer-Wrench-w-Adapter-TB123A/dp/B0021UYG66/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Clothes Washer Wrench w/ Adapter - TB123A</a>\n\nThis is a $12 part on Amazon, and it helps you cleanly remove and install the nut.  I used penetrating oil on the threads, and with a couple of very hard whacks on the spanner wrench, my hub nut was loose in about 1 minute. The TB123A wrench so cleanly removed the hub nut, it allowed me to re-use the original nut and save $8 on a replacement. This was totally worth the cost of the wrench.\n\nI was skeptical that I could buy appliance parts on Amazon, but this turned out to be a great experience. I got everything I needed to fix my washer, and saved at least $300 on my repair. Thank you Amazon.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2326, "id": 517130, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 284, "len_tokens": 315, "text": "When we replaced an earlier model with this one we began to experience intermittent problems with the spin cycle. This left our clothes soaking wet. Called Samsung customer service and their representatives could not have been less helpful. My wife and I spent hours on the phone with their representatives who read from a script of responses. I even took a day off from work to run through their \"phone diagnostics\". This amounted to cleaning the front drain and repositioning the hose. While this did nothing (no obstruction or even slime as the unit is only three months old) the representative told me that because the machine had completed it's cycle after \"this fix\" they were not responsible. I repeated that the problem had been and still is intermittent. Out came the script of responses. The representative even offered to send me the script or handbook for dealing with customer problems. I felt they were making me  responsibility for diagnosing the problem and they repeatedly told me if a repair person was sent out and the problem did not occur I would have to pay the bill. I asked to speak to a Supervisor and after 10 minutes on hold she finally picked up the call and repeated the same script of responses. I am left with a machine that works sometimes and sometimes does not.\n\nSamsung clearly does not stand behind their products and calling customer support has been an epic frustration. I will never buy another product from Samsung because if it does not work they don't stand behind their products. We have wasted countless hours over the past week and the only thing that has changed is my blood pressure.  .RWS", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2327, "id": 52773, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 272, "len_tokens": 316, "text": "After about a week with this product I am ready to write this review. Because of reading these reviews on Amazon before ordering, I requested the replacement of the plastic nut for the water valve to a brass compression nut and ferrule from the installer. The water valve is the type that is in my GE side by side fridge. I have not had an issue. As for ice production, I am not getting the full 12lbs. per day. The working environment of the freezer is its in a kitchen with external temperatures of 70-75 degrees and 75 PSI of water pressure. The internal freezer temperature is about 4 degree's Fahrenheit. Under these external and internal perimeters, I get about 6lbs. per day. That is enough to keep up with our ice demands so I am satisfied.  Another thing I found out by weighing the ice is that it was dispensing only 3 ounces of ice per tray. The instructions said it should put out 5 ounces per tray so the ice maker cover was removed and adjusted to 5 ounces. The ice maker dispenses 12 cubes per tray. The type of ice maker is a manual ice maker with the bar that rises up and down and not an electronic type. The older analog ice makers that I have had are durable and the one I have in the GE has been going for 15 years. I like this type of ice maker.\n  I called Sunpentown and the customer service is in the USA and my call was answered right away and questions answered with no accent barriers leading to frustration.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2328, "id": 261789, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 279, "len_tokens": 394, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R3OM3CO5WDB3CK\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/C195AavirFS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81aCUUZzHAS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;I think this unit is a great value if you are going ductless. I included a video to see the brightness of the lights and hear the fan noise level. The lighting level is amazing for cooking and the noise level is acceptable although it would have been nice to been a little quieter but certainly not a deal breaker and would still highly recommend.  I would caution you if you installing a duct because the design of the chimney and vent connection doesn't accommodate adequately for this type of installation so I ended up needing to small piece of wood as a simple bracket. Not that big a deal to make a wooden bracket.\n\nUPDATE: It turned out real nice after making up a custom little piece of wood to mount the bracket on and drilling a couple of holes in the extension piece. Actually it turned out even better looking because I flipped the extension upside down and hid the vent slots since I didn't need them with a duct installation so it looks real clean like one solid chimney piece now. I have photos to show how the chimney extension looks installed without the slots exposed. ;-)\nUPDATE AFTER TWO YEARS: I can tell you that this has been absolutely flawless after over more than two years of use. No doubt I have been very pleased with this purchase for the kitchen remodel. I wish I could say the same for my dimmable LED recessed lights from Lowes which have all failed and been replaced under warranty in the last 12 months. :-D", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2329, "id": 87786, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2330, "id": 218074, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 262, "len_tokens": 338, "text": "I've been using this now for many months and I wish I had stopped \"hemming and hawing\" and bought one a long time ago.  If you're an apartment dweller with a tight budget (like me) you will NOT be disappointed with this purchase.\n\nI'd say it takes 5 to 6 spins to dry out one normal size load of laundry.  Helpful tips for a balanced load:  don't fill it up to the top, I only put in maybe four shirts at a time or two pairs of pants, because I get really annoyed when it's unbalanced and I have to adjust.\n\nIf mine ever breaks, I will gladly buy another one with confidence.  Completely issue free operation on a weekly basis for several months now.  And it really gets the clothes dry!  Especially technical fabrics like gym clothes or cycling jerseys are quite dry.  Other more absorbent things like terry cloth towels still need to be hung up for a while.\n\nThank you for delivering me from many soul-crushing hours at the laundromat each week.  Now I can wash at home and use the time to read comfortably on my sofa, contemplate my existence, eat chips and salsa, enjoy my pets, et cetera.\n\nUPDATE: 01/23/2017\nI've been using this product several times a week for almost a year, it is still operating perfectly and I'm so grateful for it.  If you hate the laundromat, but thought you didn't have another option, this machine will change your life for the better.  It's a quality product and I wish I'd bought one years ago.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2331, "id": 468728, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 322, "len_tokens": 395, "text": "This replaced our 1999 GE double oven which had electrical wiring in the top catch on FIRE! OMG, good thing we noticed before too much damage occurred.  The racks are awesome, the interior color is very unique.  The double convection feature works awesome.  Cooked better and faster than our previous oven so you may need to adjust cooking times down from older oven estimates.  It's quiet, and doesn't get hot outside of the oven thus our cabinet above no longer gets hot.\n\nWe love the oven so far.  A huge improvement over our old GE.\n\nAfter the fire I was bummed because of the cost of replacing a double oven.  I had an epiphany and decided to file a claim and see if they'd cover the fire under our homeowners policy.  \"Kudos to State Farm  for handling our claim in a very quick painless fashion under our hazard insurance\".\n\nOne thing of special note with installation is the electrical whip is at the bottom of the oven.  We had to cut the drywall behind the oven for the whip to fit into when we installed the oven.  The installation was very straight forward.  The biggest thing was the weight.  We purchased the appliance moving lifting straps and 2 of us were able to lift it the short distance to get it into the cabinet.  We also had to build up the base with 2x4's and plywood and buy the optional larger base trim from Electrolux.\n\nWe also bought a 5 year square trade warranty which cost us $337 with a coupon they had.  I'll take the gamble something will break in the first 5 years.  This thing has a lot of features, it's worth the piece of mind.  Square trade is awesome they are a no-nonsense insurer of electronics and appliances.  We've had many claims paid out by them on everything from laptops to cell phones.\n\nThe shipping speed was very fast.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2332, "id": 455494, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 255, "len_tokens": 327, "text": "This is a terrific oven.  The feature that distinguishes it from other microwaves is described: \"Its one-touch sensor cooking adjusts power levels and calculates cooking times automatically, making reheating and cooking a variety of foods easier than ever.\"  It sounds good, but GOOD LUCK trying to figure out how to use it.  The poorly written user guide covers two different product models with two different implementations of this feature.  This guide has only one example, which, combining the instructions for both models, is nearly inscrutable.\n\n\"One-touch\" is also a lie:  the feature requires use of two or more buttons, each of which must be pressed up to a half-dozen times.  So even if you do figure it out, don't lose the manual because you'll never remember which foods require which combination of buttons.\n\nOne of the auto-cook settings is for oatmeal:  when I tried it, it threatened to go volcanic twice before I gave up.  Never trust a microwave with oatmeal, even one with an oatmeal button.\n\nMy guess is that only the most determined cook will figure out and use this feature, so for most people those will just be so many never-used buttons.  Don't buy this oven for \"easier than ever\" cooking, buy it as your basic microwave oven.\n\nHey, Panasonic, here are two tips:\n\n1.  Write different instructions for different models.\n2.  Have a few average people (not your engineers or designers) try to follow the instructions and see if they can get the product to work.  Rewrite until they consistently succeed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2333, "id": 458032, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 269, "len_tokens": 336, "text": "Slight oversight when signing the lease on our apartment... no dishwasher... ooops.\n\nWe've had this dishwasher a little over a week. It has been life changing. The dishes get done every night and the counters near the sink are finally uncluttered. I actually think I like it better and use it more efficiently than standard-sizes dishwashers you find plumbed in most kitchens.\n\nPros: It's pretty straight-forward to install. My husband didn't read the directions and knew what to do. Each night after dinner I fill it with all the dishes and baby bottles from the day and it's done before I need to start getting ready for bed (even on P1 - the longest wash selection). Everything comes out clean. It beeps at the end to let me know it's done, so I can turn off the water (we don't have it plumbed permanently). I can fit a lot inside (8-10 bottles/glasses, a couple bowls, all the silverware, a plate or two).\n\nCons: I don't know if this is a con or not, but holy moly the water really shoots around in there. If you have something light/plastic in there, make sure it's wedged well or covered on top by something heavy to avoid it becoming a ping pong during the cycle.\n\nRecommendations: A plastic chip clip may help the utensils stay on the top, narrow, fold-down shelf and not fall through. The washer uses a quick connect system. If you don't plan on plumbing it permanently, I'd get a quick connect sink spout and switch the two out whenever you need one or the other.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2334, "id": 187413, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 274, "len_tokens": 338, "text": "This is the worst appliance I've ever purchased.  I have had to have the dish drawers repaired once a year since I purchased them.  I have been in touch with Fisher Paykel \"customer service.\"  Each time I write them with a problem they just ask me for my serial number, model number, the original receipt for the dishwasher, the receipts for the repairs.  They say they \"can't help me without that information\" even though I have been very specific about the issues:  water draining from top drawer to bottom (I was assured the systems were separate, but no............that would be wrong.)  I had purchased the dual system to keep my meat and dairy dishes separate, as I keep kosher.  But then I found that the water from the top unit flows into the bottom one!  Leaking onto the floor.  Flashing error codes.  The appliance starting up during the night without being turned on.  During the last repair, the repairman advised me not to keep throwing money away, as the lids to the dish drawers were poorly designed, and when they stopped working it would not be worth the money to repair them.  A few nights ago we had water all over the kitchen floor, so I turned off the drawers, but woke up to flashing lights on both units.  That's it.  I'm now handwashing dishes from a party for 50 people at my home over the weekend and wondering how I can get back at Fisher Paykel for sticking me with this lemon of an appliance.  I can see from the other reviews that I'm not alone.  Can't I give them NEGATIVE five stars???", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2335, "id": 270272, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 329, "len_tokens": 370, "text": "I bought this recently because my husband and I have a lot of parties at our house.  One main reason I bought it instead of other models is that it makes much more ice in less time than the others in this price range.  There are also 3 sizes of ice to choose from plus a timer where you can either choose for a delayed start or amount of run time. Delayed start is nice option so that I timed it to begin making ice in the morning automatically.\n\nMy only major complaint is that it turns out quite a bit of external heat when cooling down the water for ice.  (At our summer party here in Florida, my A/C was struggling to keep the house cool, and this heat didn't help that situation, but nonetheless it's necessary evil for a refrigerator, freezer, or ice maker to cool inside.) Also, the included ice scoop is very small, so I recommend buying a larger one.\n\nOn another note, this ice maker is larger than I anticipated, but I imagine the larger size is needed for the higher capacity and faster ice production.  I have a picture of it near a roll of paper towels to give you an idea of the scale.  We hope to buy an RV one day, but I am not sure how well it would fit on a smaller RV kitchen counter.\n\nAs with most other portable ice makers, the ice storage compartment is not refrigerated, so we continually grabbed any ice when its bin became full, put the ice in a plastic bag, and threw it in our chest freezer to have enough ice ready for the coolers and drinks.  Any unused ice will melt into the compartment below which is the reservoir for the water - any melted ice is recycled into water and turned back into ice again, which I think is a nice feature in the absence of a cooled storage compartment.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2336, "id": 296812, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 282, "len_tokens": 329, "text": "I live solo in a studio with stone floors and no washer/dryer hookups. This little washer is awesome! I still go tp the laundromat for big items like comforters, etc. But for regular weekly washing for me and any friends staying over, it is perfect. One load fits about a week's worth of undies, socks, a few outfits, and maybe a towel and a pillow case. And the spin dryer works great to get the excess water out - I hang dry my clothes on a folding rack indoors and they are dry overnight usually. If I set out on a sunny day it's dry in an hour or two.\n\nOne thing that took some getting used to versus a big automatic clothes washer is that you have to be conscious and aware for the water fill up process - otherwise it will overflow and pour out. This happened once when I was not paying attention while on the phone. So be sure to set a timer! Mine fills in 5 minutes from my kitchen sink.\n\nThe other thing to get used to is multiple cycles. I work outdoors so my clothes get really dirty, so I do two cycles with soap, and two to three cycles to rinse until the water is close to completely clear. So it's a relatively involved process compared to an automatic washer. But the results are comparable, and no need to install washer/dryer hookups!\n\nI highly recommend using this machine at a sink with a non-carpeted, sealed or stone floor below it - maybe I'm just a messy user, but seems like I always get some water on the floor when I do laundry with it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2337, "id": 1289, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 268, "len_tokens": 324, "text": "I purchased the \"replacement\" filter with no blue covering from Filters Now. First, and it is unsubstantiated I admit, it does not appear to be made by Honeywell as it is shipped with no label in a plain box. I could be wrong though. Regardless, even if it were made by NASA for the space shuttle, the fact remains that it is lousy!\n\nI live in Arizona and use the humidifier for a small apartment. Within two hours of use (on high or medium setting) the top half of the filter that is not immersed in water is totally dry. Apparently the \"wicking\" action of the filter is so poor that the very act of using it (by passing air through it to humidify air) drys the filter out such that it becomes nearly useless.\n\nThe OEM filter with the blue wrapping worked HUGELY better. Same apartment, same machine, same season, same outside relative humidity. With the \"blue\" filter, humidity averaged 40% . With this one, we can barely keep it at 25% and this is flipping it and rinsing it every two or three hours. The other way to compare is the tank used to empty in less than 12 hours and now is half full after 12 hours of use.\n\nI understand some people claim the blue gets mildew, but at least that is a sign that it actually stays wet! I never had mildew, but I had humidity. I would never buy this one again. Total waste of money. Should have built my own from an old sweat sock for all the good it does.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2338, "id": 120356, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 261, "len_tokens": 327, "text": "BUY AT YOUR OWN RISK!!  We've owned ours for less than a year and, like many others who reviewed here, am in a boatload of doodoo for our money.  Growing up I had heard about Maytag's so called quality and never needing a repair.  Let's just say I'll never, EVER, buy a Maytag again.  Originally a Whirlpool household, when the 13 year old Whirlpool died I thought this one would be a nice replacement - WRONG!  If you look up these on the web, youtube, etc, you'll see many of the same issues (ours was same) - usually problems with the spin cycle.  This unit is a waste of money and time - in less than a year, it won't complete the wash cycle cutting off before the final spin (so clothes are soaking wet).  After 3 visits by the incompetent warranty service in my area (the guys they send always bring in their laptop and sit in there hoping to find the problem that way - nobody knows how to use volt meters and test equipment any more to track down a problem), and a month prior (waiting for parts) at the washeteria, we've just decided it wasn't worth the hassle of arranging our lives to have somebody come by and fix it piecemeal and just use the machine's spin and drain only cycle after it's done washing!  Problem solved.  Buy one again?  Nope.  I couldn't be more disappointed for the hard earned money I spent on this unit - hopefully you won't make the same mistake we did!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2339, "id": 218677, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 267, "len_tokens": 360, "text": "I bought this item \"refurbished\" for $585.  Excellent value, unit had a small cosmetic dent on top corner and a ding in the back bottom panel.  The unit was most likely rejected by someone, inspected but not fixed, and resold.  Unit has been making ice in my shop for two weeks straight, 70F inside temp with 50F degree water.  The unit is comparable to a pre 90's era refrigerator/freezer for noise, and may bother some, but not me.  In five hours, the unit will fill the internal \"20lb\" capacity bucket about 2/3 full.  The main design issue is the unit releases ice from the rear, not the top.  A sheet of ice will hang up on the release cam and unit stops making ice before the bin is full.  If you're actively watching it, the unit will make 75lbs of ice daily.  For cleaning, get a 5lb bag of food grade citric acid, $18 on amazon, and put a tablespoon in the water trough and let it run 30 minutes in wash mode.  At the scratch and dent price of $585, no shipping or sales tax, the unit is an excellent value.  The reason for four stars and not five is the ice bin only fills 2/3 full, without manual intervention.  The mode selection control is in the back, and that's fine.  I'd ignore the 1 star ratings b/c of this \"apparent flaw.\"  I intend to put an RO system before this unit, for another $150 also available on amazon.  Ignore the \"cloudy ice\" comments.  Without proper water treatment, even commercial ice makers would fail to deliver.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2340, "id": 517698, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 218, "len_tokens": 308, "text": "The product had a defect in it and after being installed it shorted and blew out the power board.  The repair technician said it was a default in the connector.  I had to pay $145 to replace and repair a new element and have to pay another $200 to replace the power board.  I contacted the seller and they said the default was not their responsibility and I would have to contact Electrolux, claiming the only way this could happen is to be inserted correctly - unfortunately this is pretty much fool proof as the screw holes only align a certain way making it impossible to insert the wrong way.  I contacted Electrolux and they said it is the seller's responsibility.  Just going in circles and by the time I am done with this I will have spent almost as much money as buying a new oven.  Here is the response I received from the seller:\n\n\"These  items  are  tested prior to  shipment by the manufacturer.  This  type  of  situation  would  happen  if  the  incorrect  element  was  inserted\n\nAll  items  are  tested  and  inspected  by  the  manufacturer Electrolux.  The  incident  you  described  usually  occurs  when  the  incorrect  item (model #)  is  installed.  Pls  call  Electrolux  direct  and  explain  your  situation  and  the  extra fees  you  incurred.  877 435.3287\"", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2341, "id": 170980, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 279, "len_tokens": 326, "text": "I am rarely unhappy with my Amazon purchases.  But unhappy doesn't begin to describe my disappointment.  I ordered the first unit and it came the next evening.  I went to install it the next morning and it leaked.  That was unfortunate.  A washer that is depended upon heavily still was not fixed.  I promptly contacted Amazon and they said they would get the new one to me the next day.  Hey, I understand, sometimes stuff comes out broken from the factory.  All you can do is take care of the situation.  I asked Amazon if they could get it to me first thing in the morning (after all, everything gets loaded on the truck in the morning some stuff rides around all day and some stuff gets delivered first).  In writing, the Amazon rep told me that she would place a priority on the delivery and try to have it to me by 10 am.  Great!! I thought.  When the UPS truck came down my street at 9 I was really happy.  Then it went to my neighbors house and left.  After waiting all day for it, It finally came late in the afternoon.  I asked the UPS driver if there had been any priority placed on my package and he pointed to the label and told me that the package just had to be delivered by 11 pm, there was no priority on the delivery.  It would have been one thing for Amazon to tell me that they couldn't place a priority on my package.  It is quite another to lie and lead me to believe they were doing something that they just simply were not doing.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2342, "id": 535504, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 290, "len_tokens": 370, "text": "I bought the $3000 LG French door LFXS 30726S on July 10, 2015 from a big box store. On July 5, 2016 (12 months later) it failed to cool and freeze. Within a couple of days the LG Tech arrived and fixed it. The problem was with the fan freezing up and a defective motherboard. Then on May 2, 2018 it failed again. This time everything thawed out with much food loss. I called LG and went through their check list to no avail. I then called service plan (I have a 5 year extended service plan) and got a repair appointment for Friday May 4, 2018, but then the service company canceled and rescheduled for May 7, 2018 between 8 AM and 12 noon. And again a no show and no phone call either. I think LG repairs are a problem for these guys. When I call the service plan I am told to call the service company that does not answer the phone  voice mail only. I called LG and am told to call the store. So it has become an endless loop.\nI just looked at LG fridge ratings online and see that they are generally problem prone -bad fans, motherboard, electronics and compressors. I think I have the bad compressor this time.\nIn 1965, my mother bought an Avocado green fridge (Whirlpool I think). She passed in 2011 and it was still running fine after 45 years! I don't recall any service calls either.\nBTW; I have been an LG fan for many years and have 3 LG TVs, several Blu Ray players, a washer dryer, computer accessories, and have had LG cell phones. Up to now I had confidence in LG products but now ???????", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2343, "id": 1826, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 264, "len_tokens": 315, "text": "We had a noticeably cold laundry room near our dryer, and this vent closure makes a HUGE DIFFERENCE vs the cheap useless plastic flappy vent cap!\n\nI'm a little ashamed about how happy I am with this product, because after all - it's just a dryer vent cap. We originally had one of the standard cheap flappy thingies outside which was doing virtually nothing, especially since the darn thing was half clogged open with lint. When it was really cold outside, our laundry room felt as cold as if a window was open (it has no windows). Dry clothes we left inside after the dryer was finished would be so cold they almost felt wet. Not only was the 4-inch diameter hole leaking tons of heated air, freezing the crap out of the dryer probably hurt its efficiency too. But, this product fixed all these problems!!!! For an easy 10-15 minute installation (most time spent chipping away excess mortar from previous sloppy installation), our laundry room no longer feels like a meat locker.\n\nPros:\nSurprisingly easy install, most time consuming part was brick wall.\nSaves money and energy! (Couldn't find actual figures)\nMakes the laundry room much more comfortable.\nLaundry room no longer a meat locker in winter!\nLooks kinda sci-fy outside.\nBrick wall gave me an excuse to use my hammer drill!\n\nCons:\nCan no longer use the freezing cold of the laundry room as an excuse to avoid doing laundry.\nI'm a little ashamed at how excited I got about the difference this made, I may need to get out more.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2344, "id": 87178, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2345, "id": 195968, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 300, "len_tokens": 389, "text": "My mother is 82 years old living in Assisted Living.  Her main complaint to living there was the lack of washer facilities for the residents.  She hated giving up her ability to do her own laundry.  The solution is the Panda products.  I found the Panda products  -- Washer/spin dryer combo and this portable dryer.  For less than $500 we had the set.  When you read about the dryer, one would think \"HOW COULD YOU DRY CLOTHES WITH A 1400 watt machine?\"  Well, when you use the Panda washer/spin dryer first, the clothes come out of the spin dryer almost dry.  You could hang the clothes up at that point and let them air dry for several hours.  However, putting them directly into the Panda dryer finishes the clothes off perfectly in about 15 minutes. Because it was only 1400 watts, I was able to vent directly into the room with no additional heat.  You use a dryer sheet and the clothes are ready to hang up.  I am absolutely sold on the Panda products.  I said in the Panda washer review that I got the Sonyo dryer.  But it wasn't.  It was the panda.  But the Sonya dryer looks identical to Panda.  So I don't know if they are the same dryer or not. The good thing about both Panda products is that my mother learned to use both quickly.  The dryer of course is a no-brainer.  Very easy.  However, I admit that it took me awhile to figure out how to clean the lint trap. However, once you realize where the lint is you are good to go.  I felt kinda stupid because it was obvious.  Anyway, great, great, dryer.  Panda washer/spin dryer combo with this dryer makes a laundromat obsolete except for large items like bedspreads.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2346, "id": 66687, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 297, "len_tokens": 328, "text": "This is a versatile system for a modest price. There is a caveat - FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS! This system has an excellent instruction manual which is a rarity these days. Between following the instruction manual and using plain old common sense you can clean out your dryer vents with no problem. For example, like many others my vent goes down through the floor, makes a 90 degree turn heading toward the outside and makes another 90 degree turn to get to the outside vent cover. I disconnected the section from my dryer and tried to slide the long brush down through the vent below the floor. There was some resistance so I did not try to force it. This brush does not have the smooth round surface on its tip that allows the brush to travel without some force that might cause breakage. The short brush does have a rounded plastic tip. So, I tried the short brush and it easily slid through the vent. There are numerous configurations which can be tried on each end of the vent to obtain satisfactory performance.\n\nThe point I am trying to make is that if you approach this task like a gorilla that chases after a banana you stand a good chance of having one of the rods snap. This will cause you to have a difficult time removing the broken parts and may even cause you to utter a profanity. Take your time, the rods are flexible but not unbreakable and with a reasonable amout of caution you can get excellent results. I had not cleaned the dryer vent for many years until I read about the potential danger of lint buildup. With a reasonable amount of care I was able to remove the dryer lint without incident.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2347, "id": 94702, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 285, "len_tokens": 352, "text": "This is a nice machine! For the price, it had better be, right? With great reservation, I purchased this washer to replace a worn-out Maytag unit. With a family of eight in a small space, our washer works for a living.\n\nThis one has many options and features that I am still trying to figure out. The interior light is very nice. It's solid, nicely sealed, heavy, good door with real stainless. The interior drum honeycomb is very nice and you can see how it is better for clothes. I don't understand half the buttons, yet, since the Maytag was just very simple. It's getting clothes clean, though, which is the whole goal. Clothes come out feeling nicer, smelling like clothes, not soil or soap or bleach or anything but clothes.\n\nIt's quiet! And, my older Whirlpool dryer is working in much less time now. Maybe it's the pressure of having a shiny new German appliance in the house or, more likely, because the Miele really spins the clothes so dry - really dry. Because we have a 120v dryer, dry time is very important. I am very happy to cut drying time. It saves energy and allows me to do more laundry since I'm not waiting as long for the dryer.\n\nClean clothes. Less overall energy consumption. What  a deal. Nice Machine.\n\nBeware buying from Evvive as a seller - not helpful, slow delivery, poor communication and my washer had mice in it! The manuel was eaten by mice, the unit had mouse waste all over it. The up side? The mice are very cute and did not seem to damage the unit itself. After a good cleaning, we were able to install it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2348, "id": 297057, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 249, "len_tokens": 307, "text": "This washer/spinner (not dryer) set is kind of remarkable for what it is. The five stars are for overall value, more than anything else.\n\nIf you can, your best bet is probably to get a quality, used washer/dryer set delivered. If you're short on space or don't have that option, this is pretty good.\n\nI've done several cycles with mine. Nothing is magical about it, but it just works and seems to put up with some misuse. The spinner is incredibly effective, but the clothes won't be totally dry. You may want a drying rack.\n\nIt would've been nice if it came with screw-in hose attachments. I've been using a set of actual washing machine hoses and pointing them into the basin. Pretty much, you control the water temperature by how much hot or cold water you put in. The water level is all you. It just washes and drains. I did keep the lower styrofoam to give it a bit more height (you may want to lift the unit higher for more optimal draining, depending on your configuration) and stability.\n\nI'm not really sure this could be better for the price point. Seems to do a nice job and I haven't killed it yet, so it's doing quite well.\n\nLast tip: You know the spinner is working right when it's not shaking about and it spools up to a very high speed. If not, you may have it overloaded, imbalanced, and/or not have the plastic spacer thing in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2349, "id": 174383, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 256, "len_tokens": 310, "text": "Quality Parts and Fast Service: Replace this before the expensive parts!\n\nWent round and round with finding what was wrong with this side by side fridge.  Was going to do the shotgun approach to fixing it, but for the Adaptive Defrost Control Board is well around 60 to 130 bucks, so that put a damper on the excitement right away.\n\nCleaned terminals and wire connectors, seated and reseated cables and thought I had it licked.  But no matter what I did the thing frosted up again in a week or 10 days.\n\nI tested everything, and even the old defrost thermostat checked out okay, but the thing must have been a bit sketchy on the inside, because when I installed this one the problem went away.  Boy am I glad I replaced an easy to replace $15 part rather than some shotgun approach to a bad Surface Mount relay on a conformal coated PCB in the refrigerator compartment.\n\nHighly recommended that YOU replace THIS part in YOUR fridge!  The environment that this guy has to live in is harsh:  cold most of the time then hot, then current running through you then cold again, only to do it all over again in another day or two...whew!\n\nYou will be a step ahead of the game and not too much out of pocket if this doesn't solve your problems, but I bet it will!\n\nEnjoy!\n\nPS: I actually soldered mine in place rather than using the crimp connectors, but you make the call.\n\nCall me Mark...to Market!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2350, "id": 3198, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 303, "len_tokens": 374, "text": "The place I get my kegs from gave me the right washer so I have not had any problems on that side whatsoever.\n\nThis was an impulse buy for me.  Sure I did some research then one Saturday I was having a party and went and picked this up at the local Brandsmart.  Beer would come out cold, not as cold as I'd like but not too warm.  One thing I learned right away, you have to let the keg sit overnight before tapping inside the cooler.  I'm new to this, so I did not know the pitfalls of tapping a warm keg.  I came on here and read some of the reviews.  It was not until about a month later that the temperature issue became a problem.  I hesitated but took a previous poster's advice and now the beer is as cold as I like.  I recommenc going for a half to 3/4 turn on the screw as opposed to a full one.  You don't want the thing to run so much that it burns out.  I would find it odd how the cooler would cycle on for about 5 minutes then off for 20.  Now its on for 20-30 and off for the same.  Nonetheless, my Michelob Light has never tasted better.  I have not had to deal with Haier directly and from the looks of it, I hope I won't have to.  This unit is a good value.  Once you get past the temperature issue, you cant ask for a better deal.  Both the tap and faucet are good quality as well as he Co2 tank.  I recommend you get a better regulator with the \"mickey mouse ears\".  One to tell you the pressure and the other how much gas is left in the tank.  [...].\n\nYes I recommend this.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2351, "id": 279594, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 316, "len_tokens": 373, "text": "So I bought this September 2014, it has been sitting in my garage as our kitchen remodel has stretched out beyond both my and wife's expectations.  We began installing and noticed the mounting brackets were missing.  Called the number listed on the company website and a live person picks up the phone! No transfer out of the country or call center in Mongolia, live person perfect english.  After a short phone call with Jacob(I think that was his name) parts were sent out and I received 3 business days later, free of charge.  They sent out the entire mounting hardware just in case.  This is after I purchased 2 years ago, regardless of the product the company has a thumbs up in my book.\n\nOn to the hood.  Been installed for 4 days, all the lights work great, low fan setting is very quiet and highest setting has increased noise but about on par with the builder grade \"low\" from before.  So far, very pleased.  It looks great, no scratches or dents on ours.  We mounted where before was bar cabinets and a built in hood.  So if you have this situation, know that you will need to build a box above the drywall or, as I did, rig up an attachment to floorboards above.  I would not trust drywall anchors with this thing.  Overall very pleased and looks and works like models that cost twice as much.\n\nUPDATE:. It has been installed for a full year and still works and looks great. Only thing I have noticed is that one of the LED lights is a little touchy and sometimes when I turn on the lights I have to tap it a little to get it to turn on but then it stays on.  I get compliments all the time and have noticed it does suck up air at a pretty darn good rate.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2352, "id": 121854, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 300, "len_tokens": 356, "text": "First a small mea culpa - I ordered the product in July for an inefficiently drying dryer and underestimated just how hot it stays in my garage in the Miami area till late fall.\n\nThe seller insists I was too late for a refund, but I also got no support. They just didn't care that their products are defective and incomplete so if you do buy, open fast and have a keen eye that will tell you whether or not the product is defective and/or incomplete without installing it. You can't? Tough luck.\n\nWhen I was finally ready to do te job, I got my first surpirse - no thermostat though one was advertised.  Of course I was told it must be in the box, look for it. Well it's not a tiny part or a big box - it just wasn't there.\n\nSecond surprise - I'm a DYI'er and I have done this job before on other dryers, but not a pro.  I installed the element with the old thermostat, just as the first one was. Buttoned up the machine turned it on and it ran great - but ZERO HEAT!\n\nI opened it up again, I ohmed everything out and seemed to be ok.  But I am not a pro, so I finally called one.\n\nAnd for $125 he determined my installation was proper and the element was defective.\n\nHe reinstalled the old element and thermostat and now, for the tidy sum of $155 - the cost of the product and the cost of the pro - I am exactly right back where I started!\n\nI don't know if my situation was typical or not. I chose THE CHEAPEST UNIT I COULD FIND so maybe that;s my bad.\n\nAnyone wanna buy an unused heating element? As a paperweight?!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2353, "id": 229183, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 305, "len_tokens": 392, "text": "The lint filter on my Maytag dryer model # LDE512 cracked completely through on the left side (after the screen tore in two places).\n\nMaytag wants just under thirty dollars for this part (before shipping), and even third-party parts websites average from 12-24 dollars (before shipping).\n\nChecked here, and lo! This is a compatible replacement for this model number (among many others).\nIt arrived quickly, adequately packaged.\n\nPutting it into the filter screen slot, it went in fine 4/5 of the way and stopped! As though it were too wide at the top. D'oh!! Not wanting to force it/break it, I removed it. And cursed.\nAnd went to my local parts store, where they assured me they had the correct replacement, for 12.99. Bought one, thinking it looked suspiciously similar. But what do I know,right. Alas - same part. Cursed again.\n\nThen it occurred to me that a) I might have been wrong before, and b) now I had two, so what could it matter if I broke one?\n\nWalked back to the laundry room with the orginal replacement, from Amazon, in hand. Crammed it in there, and when it 'stuck', pushed harder. And it went right in. Sigh.\nSo now I have two, which is all right, I guess. And now I know that I could trust this seller to start with, and the product was great all along.\n\nI cannot say whether the replacement will hold up better than the original. It IS an exact replica,except for the color, with the same type of thin,poorly attached 'fabric' mesh and very thin plastic framing along the sides. This IS NOT a flaw of this seller's product, but rather a poor design on Maytag's part. Perhaps buy more than one..\n\nIf yours is broken, this is a fine replacement.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2354, "id": 368325, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 308, "len_tokens": 385, "text": "We had been out of the country for over two years and had leased out our house.  After we returned to our home and dispensed water from the frig., we could see particles floating in the water.  Gross!  We have a GE built-in frig., and I'm certain that the tenants had never replaced the filter during their stay.  I'm inclined to buy authentic GE filters, but they are ridiculously overpriced.  Amazon to the rescue!  I decided on this filter for its price,its ratings from other purchasers, and because it's Prime eligible.  I replaced it as soon as it arrived, flushed the system as recommended, and then examined a glass of water directly under an overhead floodlight.  No particles.  Taste test was as it should be - it tasted like nothing.  The filter comes with month stickers, so you can apply one to remind you when it was installed.  At this time I can certainly give it four stars.  It's getting its job done.  It's been in place for only a week, so I can't speak as to its longevity.  Time will tell, and I'm hopeful that it will prove itself to be a five star product.  By the way, we were in a country where you wouldn't dare to drink water straight from the faucet.  We would reverse osmosis AND gravity filter our water for drinking, so I do have a concern for the safety of drinking water from a health standpoint.  However, it seems that many people here may be overly concerned - given some of the reviews.  It's just my observation, but the water from our faucet here is far better to begin with than the water in many other parts of the world.  Until such time as we live in a perfect world, we can't expect perfection.  That expectation, alone, can make us sick.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2355, "id": 78441, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 252, "len_tokens": 311, "text": "I bought my NXR 30\" in fall of 2010. When it works, it works great. HOWEVER, just shortly after the 1 year warranty expired, I noticed several spots in the oven where the porcelin paint had chipped off and the underlying metal was pitted and eroding. Called Duro several times, sent pictures, and after shaming them into agreeing to taking care of the repair at their expense, still have not gotten it done. They have no follow up, pass me on to someone else every time I call, and I get the same story each time - they have to get a status and they'll get back to me. Meanwhile, on this appliance that's less than 2 years old, now the oven burner tube has given out (a hole blew right through the metal tube!!) and the ignition coil is defective. Great. $300 for parts and at least another $200 labor to get it fixed. Did I mention that the unit is not even 2 years old? And that my oven is still rotting away with no resolution in site? NXR is tempting because it looks high-end for a reasonable price. But stay away, stay far away, unless you like arguing with a company who advises you to pull your oven out, pack it up, and ship it back to them in SoCal (at your expense) so that they can do the repair. And then they'll ship it back to you, again, at your expense. Not my idea of a good time.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2356, "id": 88322, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2357, "id": 122055, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 261, "len_tokens": 304, "text": "Our last dishwasher stopped working so it was time to get a new unit.  My wife wanted a Kitchenaid because we've had pretty good luck with their products.  What a disappointment!\n\nWhen it showed up at our door, after waiting a week for delivery, the rear chassis wheel which is meant to help put the dishwasher in place under the counter was bent. I can overlook this.\n\nThe rear wheel which is plastic on the lower dish tray was broken off when we first pulled the tray out. Spoken with customer service for a new part, we will see how long it takes to get that in the mail.\n\nTonight we went to use the upper cutlery tray which is a shallow tray designed for items you don't want to put in the general utensil tray. Beth pulled the tray out and couldn't push it back in because another plastic rear wheel broke.\n\nAbsolutely frustrated given the amount of money I spent on this thing. In my opinion it should be PERFECT.\n\nOh by the way, when I open the box the dishwasher was soaking wet inside. So all of the documentation was essentially unusable. Next time it'll be Bosch for us.\n\nOn the upside, it is extremely quiet and I often will open the unit not knowing it is running.  It also does a really good job cleaning our dishes.  In that respect it's the best dishwasher we've had in a long time.  My concern is the overall life of the product.  Given that so many parts have broken already.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2358, "id": 495886, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 255, "len_tokens": 308, "text": "This is an excellent range for the money. I have this exact model [all gas, 30 inch, five burner, no self-clean oven] and chose it largely due to having five burners, excellent simmer to high range, roller racks, a solid/moist oven for baking meats, an excellent infrared broiler, solid and flat grates, and for largely being absent of sensitive electronic displays that could fail on other models. The reason I did not pay extra for the dual fuel was due to having a separate electric convection wall oven and skipped out on the self-clean function to avoid destroying the oven's interior enamel, in which peeling is an issue with a lot of self-clean ranges/ovens. Two weaknesses worth noting are that the range top takes effort to clean [although it is designed to be scrubbed hard] and the cooling fan runs quite long when you use the oven. I think the cleaning issue is common with sealed burner gas ranges. Although I live in an area that is cold in the Winter and my kitchen is designed to mitigate the heat and noise, it can be an issue for those that live in warmer climates and are sensitive to fan noise. Overall, this range has an excellent pro-style look, has great features for the money, and is a great value in comparison to other similar models with matching features I looked at before selecting the DCS.I enclosed a picture of my range with matching DCS backsplash [extra] and a Bosch pyramid vent [with 600 cfm blower].", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2359, "id": 468352, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 291, "len_tokens": 360, "text": "I thought that I'd treat myself to a \"fancy\" washer and dryer set. My previous set had been a top-loader with agitator, your basic three-speed secondhand model from a used appliance store, and it served me well over 5 years. I was so excited to upgrade to something nicer. Boy, was I ever fooled!\nFor starters, the spin cycle sounds like a freight train is running through the house. It's by far the loudest washer I've ever heard. The normal cycle runs for more than 90 minutes, I've timed it. The clothes get damp at best, so they aren't really washed at all - there isn't any water in the tub for them to agitate in, and the agitator sounds like it's lurching its way to a slow death. I hate the lid lock - really, my kids are smart enough to not climb into a washer. It's been about a year and the washer is completely messed up now. It won't run the cycles as stated, and it won't spin at all in time with the cycle. The stupid chimes will signal that the washer is off but the washer remains running. I've even unplugged it completely and the washer still indicated it was on for 5 minutes. Above all, I not only didn't save any money on our water bill, but our usage has actually increased.\nThe companion dryer sucks just as much, I have to run each load 3 times on 70 minutes each due to the washer barely, if at all, spinning out the clothes. Luckily, tax time is just around the corner and this hunk of junk will be taken straight to the metals recycling center. I'll be gladly going back to a basic three-speed Roper.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2360, "id": 492425, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 303, "len_tokens": 374, "text": "I received this as a gift in December 2014 and have played with it for 6 months now. It works great once you figure it out, but the manufacturer should make this much easier. I use this for home brewed beer, and for local brewery beers where I can get the empty kegs filled. I do have the conversion kit to pressurize the kegs.\n\nMy initial impression was negative. I used three CO2 cartridges for the first keg. Obviously the system leaked CO2. I used a soap-water combination to find and fix a few leaks. In the process I cracked and replaced one plastic connector. It worked better after that, but still didn't hold pressure for more than a week. The manufacturer was no help, they basically told me that if I couldn't find the leak, they couldn't help me.\n\nOn the next keg, I blew through two cartridges in a day, and tore the entire thing apart out of sheer frustration.  In the process I discovered that the stem that penetrates the bung and connects to the tap head was actually threaded to the tap head. I unscrewed it from the tap head, and located another seal. That seal was not seated properly. I reseated it, threaded the stem to the tap head, tightened it all, and have been pouring beer ever since. I'm on my second keg with the same CO2 cartridge, so I think that I've solved my leaks.\n\nMy only complaint is that the manufacturers should show a complete diagram of the system, to include all of the seals. That way an owner could navigate the pressurization system intentionally to find leaks, instead of by blind luck like I did.  I'm now brewing more beer and kegging half of each batch.  The kegorator looks great, and works great now.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2361, "id": 417908, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 354, "len_tokens": 398, "text": "Compares great to the genuine OEM MSWF GE filter with even better flow rate specifications.\n\nWhat can we say about this filter other then you get an amazing deal with 100% of the function for 20% of the cost. We were used to spending an arm and a leg for the genuine GE filter for our GE Profile refrigerator from our local Lowes and Home Depot stores. We didn't notice any major differences in build quality, both are made of white, high grade plastic. The minimum working pressures for the aftermarket comes in at a lower PSI then the OEM filter at 20 psi versus 40 psi, but is under the OEM maximum high pressure at 100 psi versus 120 psi respectively.\n\nThe thing that stood out most to us is the flow rate seems much better with this aftermarket water filter. This is great when retrieving water from the door dispenser but it makes me wonder how much filter material is present and if it's doing as good a job as the OEM one. By taste alone, there's no difference so it seems like it's doing as good of a job and we don't see any suspended particles in our glasses of ice cold water.\n\nAll in all, this is a great bargain for the costly OEM MSWF GE filter. We'll see how it holds up from a few months of constant daily usage, but we're confident that it will fit the bill and do what it's intended to do. Even if we were to replace it every other month (not likely) it would still be cheaper then 2 OEM filters from our local appliance stores.\n\nI must disclose that we did receive this product for free or at a discounted price in exchange for our honest and unbiased review. The above comments and attached photos are our own and a result of real use and testing. We do our best to evaluate the product thoroughly and provide as much detail as possible to help potential customers with any questions that they may have. Hopefully you will find this review helpful as well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2362, "id": 116735, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 287, "len_tokens": 356, "text": "Having had a Maytag that lasted almost 15 years and took major abuse from my family and foreign exchange students, when it came time for a new washer, I went looking for a Maytag (should I say whirlpool).  I was wrong to do so.  This is the worst machine ever!  Here I am 65 thinking this will be my last best washer and was wrong.  I was finally \"lucky\" enough to buy a washer/dryer set and I get this lemon! I do 3 loads every other week so it doesn't get used a lot but if it did I'd take an ax to it.  First it is noisey.  I have to close the 3 doors to keep the noise out.  Second, the clothes are soooo twisted into knots that I'm having to untie them before putting them in the dryer (the dryer works ok). And the salesperson said this machine was easier on the clothes! Ha!  Third, I've had the clothes come out dry and seemingly dirty.  Fourth, that stupid lock! Sure in the spin cycle it should lock for safety sake.  But old machines a person could open the lid when they were out of balance and know where the out of balance was and we could fix it.  This one won't open until it stops and I have to unload the entire machine, dripping wet clothes, before it get fixed and it takes pushing multiple buttons to add that missed article to add to the load.  This machine is way too finicky and high maintainance.  I'd get rid of it but don't want to stick someone else with it.  It should be recalled!  I bought it from Sears, no wonder they went under.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2363, "id": 88186, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2364, "id": 88346, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2365, "id": 116448, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 263, "len_tokens": 331, "text": "Every washing machine has a drain pump tramp that is designed to catch stuff and keep you from clogging the drain hose.  It will eventually clog, your washer will refuse to drain, and you'll have to empty this trap yourself.  Especially if you have something happen like say, a bath mat explodes in the washing machine...\n\nOn lower-end models from Whirlpool cleaning the drain pump trap isn't an issue at all.  There's a little kick panel that you unbolt, you pull the drain pump trap plug, clean it out, replace, and clean washer cycle...  On other brands there's a little door in front you pull open, and unscrew said drain trap.  On this model and the WFW95HEX version you have to remove the entire front panel to access this plug.  That's not the bad part...\n\nThe bad part starts when you have the 140 lb matching dryer stacked on top of the washer.  You see, to remove the front panel you have to remove the rubber bushing between the door and front panel.  But even before you do that you need to remove the control panel.  However, before you can remove the control panel you must remove the lid...\n\nWhich brings us to the problem.  Unstacking a 140 lb dryer from the washing machine, in order to remove the lid, control panel, and bushing so that you can remove the front panel just to clean a drain trap...\n\nWTF were you thinking Whirlpool?\n\nOther than that this thing works great, I've had zero issues with it, and it get clothing pretty darn clean.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2366, "id": 475461, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 306, "len_tokens": 351, "text": "These are the times i wish i could give negative stars in a review. I did not buy this from Amazon. Rather, it came with the house i purchased last year. Regardless, this dishwasher is the biggest piece of junk I've ever owned. So much so that i suggest you think long and hard before buying anything with the Kitchen Aid brand on it.\n\nI've been a happy Kitchen Aid customer for many years, but this one product and the experience i had dealing with their customer \"service\" have completely destroyed any faith i might have had in this formerly stellar product company.\n\nNow, you may be wondering what specifically is wrong with this dishwasher. First, the top rack is dislodged from the wheels on which it is supposed to roll, so it frequently comes crashing down on the dishes in the bottom rack breaking fragile items. As if that wasn't bad enough, now the exterior of the door is separating from the interior. The screws have actually popped out of the stainless steel.\n\nThe worst part is that customer service is completely unsympathetic to my pleas. They are going to send me some parts to let me try to repair it myself, but even that has required there phone calls with me following up 7 months after they said they were going to send the parts the first time. I have little faith that they will actually send them this time, but at this point i don't really care. They're dead to me.\n\nNow i have to go find a reputable company that cares about quality and their customers and give them my next $1000. Thank you Kitchen Aid for wasting my time and money along with all the other fools you've suckered money out of. Good luck in your future endeavors... in bankruptcy court.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2367, "id": 383311, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 297, "len_tokens": 377, "text": "This spin dryer is awesome, but I had trouble with it initially. My new apartment was built in the 50s, and features vintage hardwood floors that aren't level. The first time I used the spin dryer it violently lurched across the kitchen and unplugged itself. I moved it to a new spot, and it lurched again. I started thinking maybe I had failed to remove the protective thingy on the bottom?  I flipped it over and couldn't find anything to move. (I unpacked the spin dryer a few weeks prior, and started second-guessing my memory!)  I read reviews, I scoured the Internet for a picture of the thingy that should be removed with no luck. (Really?? It's that important and you don't supply a diagram or a photo of the thingy?)  Next I moved the dryer to my newly-tiled and level bathroom floor, where I experienced MORE lurching. Hmmm.  I ended up sitting on top of the machine for the first two uses to keep it in place, which was uncomfortable and probably dangerous as the lurching continued beneath me.\n\nI didn't understand why I was having so much trouble with this highly-rated item, so I read more reviews, and noticed one that talked about BALANCING the wash load. Eureka! (My old washer never came unbalanced in 5 years of use, so I had forgotten this was a thing!) I immediately washed a new load, put the heavy stuff in the bottom of the dryer, the lighter stuff on top, added the round disc and pressed on the clothing to get everything mushed into place so the load balanced. This time when I ran the spin dryer it shook for about 15 seconds, then stood still. (Except for the interior, of course, which was spinning beautifully.)  TRIUMPH!!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2368, "id": 180929, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 317, "len_tokens": 369, "text": "WARNING--DO NOT BUY FROM GE! All three of the appliances I purchased in November were defective in some way. The refrigerator arrived with a gash in the inside lining, the range leaked gas making it both unusable and highly dangerous, and the dishwasher made a loud noise and leaked water everywhere. GE's service policies are nearly criminal--I've been lied to by customer service in scheduling appointment times, and when repair men have shown up they've either passed the buck or, in an attempt to fix things, have made the issues worse. There is absolutely no accountability in the GE service process so they've just shuttled me around from one representative to another with no one working to actually resolve the issues. They've used their one year warranty to hold me hostage since I've been unable to return/exchange the appliances for another brand, and when I call to complain they've only offered to extend my warranty coverage to two years, which only reinforces my belief that these problems will persist. GE's faulty products and horrendous service have cost me so much time and money over the past 3 months. I've wasted over a week's vacation waiting for service calls, half of which did not arrive on time or resulted in damage to my floors and hallways. I've had to pay my own plumber and contractor to oversee the service since the GE repairs led to other problems in the house. I had to cancel Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Years with family because I wasn't able to prepare food, and have had to either eat at restaurants or microwave frozen meals for the last 3 months, all of which has cost me thousands of dollars that would have otherwise been saved. I've reached my breaking point, and while I can only continue down this hole, I hope that this review will save someone else from suffering the same fate.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2369, "id": 88270, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2370, "id": 100418, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 306, "len_tokens": 341, "text": "We got this to use this winter when we will be dry camping. I did not buy it on Amazon because I found a better price online. So far I've tried it out only once, but I was quite impressed by this little thing. It was very easy to put together. I tried it out with five of our cotton shirts, two pairs of underwear, one sport bra. It did a great job! I also felt like it provided me with a little arm workout, too. I first cranked one direction with my right arm, then reversed the crank direction with my left arm. The items came out smelling clean and only needed one rinse. My only problem was that I needed to do quite a bit of hand wringing of the items. My husband suggested that after I rinse I should do some spinning in it to use some centrifugal force to try to wring them out better.\n\nThere was a little leakage so I would suggest using this outdoors if possible. I plan to use it exclusively outdoors when we are traveling. I feel that this washer is a unique item and will definitely enable me to do several small loads of laundry per week when we are not at home. I'm sure I will be able to wash sheets and towels more often than I had thought I would be able to and it will easily pay for itself over the course of this winter. At this point I would definitely recommend this to others!\n\nUPDATE: since the items were quite wet when they came out, and we were brainstorming ways to get them wrung out a little better, one friend suggested using a rolling pin to wring the clothing out by hand. I like that idea and will definitely be trying it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2371, "id": 23824, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 282, "len_tokens": 327, "text": "I purchased a 2-pack of the GE MWF filters. I did receive what appear to be genuine GE MWF filters, however, neither have worked properly. The first triggered the orange/red \"replacement\" light on my fridge within 5 days of installing it. The filters are supposed to last around 6 months so I reset my light several times and it kept coming back on as long as that filter was in place (and it didn't with the bypass in). I replaced that first filter with the second from the 2-pack, hoping the first was simply defective. It's been a few days shy of a month and the water, which tasted great for about ten days started tasting terrible after that.\nI made pasta with the water and it tasted like it'd been cooked in a swimming pool (chlorine).\n\nI also use two Pur brand water containers and even when the filters are approaching the end of their life, I cannot taste chlorine in the Pur water (even if I can smell it coming out of the tap!).\n\nI'm not sure what is up with these filters but I can't imagine there isn't something wrong with them. GE says it must be my fridge or the light, which I doubt as it's less than two years old and prior to this was hooked up to an R/O system and at that point my fridge was not contaminating the water! At over $30 each I certainly do not want to keep changing these out every 10-20 days. I've considered buying more but I think I'll pay the little bit extra and get them straight from GE or a hardware store next time.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2372, "id": 70783, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 277, "len_tokens": 348, "text": "This uses one AAA battery. It looks exactly like the Amazon photo.\n\nPro's:\n\n1. Small footprint, takes up little space on a shelf or countertop. Has an included folding stand in rear.\n\n2. Large digital display numbers are easy to read from a distance across a room.\n\n3. includes a clock and calendar function. Choice of Celsius or Fahrenheit.\n\n4. Battery is easy to install and change.\n\n5. Simple design and inconspicuous looks, which I like.\n\n6. This is accurate within a few degrees and % both for humidity and temperature.\nHowever, both require at least 30 to 60 minutes to adjust and stabilize before you get an accurate reading.\nIf you move it across the house, don't expect instant accuracy in the new location, it has to 'settle in' first for up to an hour.\n\nCon's (only one):\n\nIt was surprisingly difficult to set the F/C control, and some other settings, due to very poorly written instructions. Instructions need to be rewritten\nfor clarity. Also, you'll need those instructions again in future. I cut mine down in size, folded them and taped them to the back of the unit for future reference.\n\nOverall I like this unit a lot. I've tried other competing units and they were junk. This one is reasonably accurate and much easier to read and operate.\nSample sent for testing and impartial review. This is one of only two temp/humidity gauges that I've tried and liked, out of a number of rejects.\nThe other model (without the clock/calendar feature) is from the same Seller, iGadgitz. Worth checking that one out, too.\n\nI hope this is helpful as you comparison shop online.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2373, "id": 250584, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 205, "len_tokens": 368, "text": "When one has a plastic part that costs less than $10 break and causes a $700 clothes washer machine to be out of action, that is a pain in the ..... This part is a simple fix. Two Phillips head screws are removed to allow simple replacement. One thing of note- be sure to fetch the broken part from the hole where it is inserted or risk causing more problems. There are two of these listed on Amazon. This one here and the one located at this link Frigidaire 131763310 Striker. They are identical. I would post pictures if Amazon allowed me to but they do not.\n\nI would recommend ordering two since it makes life easier in the future with teenage daughters slamming washer doors instead of shutting them gently. This will save you at least $75 for a service call!\n\nThis was used on a Frigidaire model # LTF6700 FS0 to replace the door striker. Hope this helps someone who searches for \"Frigidaire LTF6700 door striker replacement\"!\n\nThe cheaper one is here&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Frigidaire-131763310-Striker/dp/B00DM8K1UG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Frigidaire 131763310 Striker</a>&nbsp;as well as another one here&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Frigidaire-134456600-Door-Strike/dp/B00DM8LBCI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Frigidaire 134456600 Door Strike</a>. In my opinion, they are all the same but I cannot guarantee this.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2374, "id": 149694, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 342, "len_tokens": 376, "text": "I have a newer energy efficient GE front-load washer and dryer. We bought the pair because of their high ratings by consumer reports. I added the pedestal stands to save our backs but soon discovered that the washer tended to vibrate radically when in the spin mode.\n\nWe have porcelain tile in our laundry room that helped to enable the new washer to dance all over the room. Our old top-loader danced too, but nothing like this new unit. I called GE factory service to service the washer. It started to move so much it was bouncing off the dryer and surrounding wall. It sounded like the washer and dryer were fighting a champion round and our laundry room was the boxing ring each time we washed a load. I figured this could not be good for the life span of the expensive appliances. The GE service tec told us that all front loaders moved around and that the pedestals he saw on washers always made it worse. He recommended removing the stands to reduce the movement but commented that our tiled floors were the source of the problem.\n\nRather than discard the stands or re-tile the laundry room I looked into a alternate solution. The Silent Feet Combo Pac seemed like the most reasonable solution. I was somewhat skeptical that they would work but figured it was worth a shot.\n\nSilent feet worked as promised. We got the combo pac for the W&D. The sticky washer pads were difficult to put on and need some muscle power. Get some help if you need some. My petite wife and I were able to manage the task with me doing the heavy lifting while she reached under the washer to place the pads in place. The dryer was somewhat easier as the pads would slide with some heavy pushing. Now our washer is quite and it stays in place. The added height is nice too.\n\nI highly recommend this option if you have noisy our vibrating laundry appliances. They are worth the investment.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2375, "id": 345721, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 264, "len_tokens": 300, "text": "This is the easiest, most economical and convenient way to purchase a water filter for my Whirlpool refrigerator.  It's not one of those things that is fun to go out and buy but you have to have it.  The price on amazon is better than any price I have found in a store and definitely much better than the price you get in the mail offers from whirlpool.  Buying this on amazon makes it easy and convenient to go back to my account and buy a new one whenever necessary without having to go to the effort of finding the proper model number and taking that to the store and searching for the right one.  These are easy to install and fit perfectly in my refrigerator.  I have a whirlpool side by side.  I have never had any trouble installing the filter or with leaks etc.  It does the job- water tastes good and I have the peace of mind knowing my family is drinking pure water.  When you install it, the water filter light turns back to green and you can forget about it until the light turns yellow or red.  They seem to last a long time so it's not a purchase I have to make too often even though our water dispenser gets a lot of daily use.  The water has a good taste and no smell.  The ice also has no odd smell when I use this filter.  I would highly recommend this Whirlpool refrigerator filter and would definitely suggest buying it from amazon to save both time and money.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2376, "id": 458726, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 289, "len_tokens": 334, "text": "I bought this to do a dishwasher install for my wife. She kept telling me that she wanted a dishwasher, and I kept telling her that I have one.  That don't sit well with her.  The hard part was that we didn't have a spot in our kitchen for one.  I then realized one day that we had a row of drawers and a cabinet right beside the sink that would be the equivalent space of a dishwasher.  All I would have to do is remove the cabinets... oh and buy the dishwasher.\n\nDishwasher was ordered, and on its way.  I started figuring out all the other necessary parts that would be needed.  This kit contained it.  All except one piece which I was given by the plumbers at my work.  Everything went together very easily, even with the help of my 1 year old little boy.  He has to be right there helping daddy with everything. I bought this kit though because it did include the little T splitter so that I could just branch off from my hot water line under the sink.  The only thing that would have made it a little bit nicer would have been a shut off on each branch of the splitter so I could still use hot water at the sink if I needed to turn of the water going to the dishwasher. The only piece we didn't use here was the little gold right angle piece. It evidently wasn't needed for our install.\n\nIt's been two months and so far, no leaks, no electrical issues and everything is going great.  The wife is happy as it means she didn't have to sit at the sink washing dishes nightly after dinner.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2377, "id": 98463, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 286, "len_tokens": 332, "text": "I really wanted to like this refrigerator, it looks great, I like the storage, I LOVE the bullet ice cubes.  Bought this fridge in December and until a week ago thought that I had escaped the dreaded ice maker problems...sadly the ice maker quite functioning last week.  Electrolux had me run the diagnostics and promptly and efficiently set us up for the retrograde fit on the ice maker.  Repair was out today to install.  Am hoping that the repair sticks, but from what I am reading my hopes are not high.  Repairman said the fix is hit or miss but this kit he installed was different from the other kits so he wasn't going to comment on if he thought the fix would work.  I bought the extended 1 year warranty when I brought the fridge home so at least I don't have the cost to repair it multiple times.  This is my primary refridge and I am lucky to have a back up fridge however, just so you know the other is a side by side Samsung less than a year old that is malfunctioning as well (its had the same repair 3 times) Currently in the process of getting the refund on it because they aren't making a replacement part for it anymore and its less than a year old (what does that tell you).  By the way not one tells you that you have to cut off the power cord and send it back to them in order to process the refund.  (So what are you supposed to do for a refridge while they are processing the check?)  At this point I am afraid to pick another Fridge my batting average stinks!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2378, "id": 444383, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 327, "len_tokens": 397, "text": "So far, I like this unit but there are a couple of issues: I'm not sure it gets all THAT cold, and it makes sort of a slight chirpy/squeaky noise when the compressor kicks on.  It was not very loud, but annoying enough to move it from near the tv.  I had to reposition the drip tray before turning the unit on, and it doesn't even mention the drip tray in the instructions.  I like COLD beer and they didn't feel that cold after being on all night.  This is at a weekend house.  I left the control at the coldest setting (7) on Sunday and will not be back until Friday - I hope it doesn't freeze and burst any of the soft drinks!  It did seem that drinks in the back (closer to the cooling part) were colder, and although it says it will hold 126 cans, maybe it will cool better if it isn't packed so full.  It arrived with no damage to the unit or the packaging.\n\nNOT HAPPY UPDATE: I sent it back for warranty service the first week of November.  Nov 21 they said \"We did receive your beverage cooler and it should be shipping out by this upcoming Wednesday.\" but was informed 12/5 that they could not repair it and will be sending me a replacement, but they are out of stock until Dec 26, and the warranty would be from my original purchase date, which was in August!  Really?  It takes until end of December to (hopefully) get a working unit and almost five months of the twelve month warranty period will be over?  I guess that is how warranty periods work, but taking almost two months to fix or replace it seems like they are just running down the clock.  I hope there aren't any issues with the replacement, but if there are, I'll be quicker to return it before using up any more of the warranty period.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2379, "id": 141165, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 260, "len_tokens": 307, "text": "We have a Kenmore 106.556xxxx side by side, and this did the trick !  It now works great.  The previous drawer slide/guide always seemed to fall off on us, and I would have to put it back on.  Then I noticed a small crack in the drawer slide, and decided to buy this and replace it.  I am very glad I did this.  After putting in this new slide for $11 and 10 mins of time, I now remember how nice the drawers are supposed to glide.  Very smooth !\n\nWe would have given this 5 stars stars if we didn't have to get the dremel out to remove the extra two small circle spots from the slide unit (See picture).  I found a youtube video of a serviceman putting this in with the two extra circles still on the slide, but it took too much effort to slide it and I was afraid I was going to break something.  So, I just used a dremel to remove the two circle bumps that were not on the original drawer slide to make it an exactly like the original that came with the refrigerator.\n\nIt helped a lot to remove the entire shelf from the refrigerator, turn the unit upside down on the counter, and replace the slide on the counter vs. trying to do this inside the refrigerator.  Bonus: I found one of my lights in the very back of the refrigerator was burned out when I removed the shelf for this repair - so now the inside is also brighter !", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2380, "id": 100575, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 307, "len_tokens": 366, "text": "I ordered this directly from the Laundry Alternative and I'm very happy with the purchase.  My biggest reason for purchasing it is the high electric rates we pay here in NH.  I've tried washing a variety of items in the WonderWash and have come to a \"compromise\" method.  Since they are heavy when wet and are bulky anyways, I still wash jeans and towels in the regular washing machine but everything else gets washed in the WonderWash.  I'll do a few loads (enough to equal what can go in the big washer), and then instead of wringing everything by hand, I'll squeeze out some water and put the items into a trash bag lined clothes basket and then pop all the items into the regular washer just for a drain and spin cycle.  Since my big washer is a front loader, this gets out most of the extra water while only using the machine for about 10 minutes.  For me, this method works great.\n\nUpdate:  Since reviewing this machine, I have purchased the Mini Countertop Spin Dryer from the Laundry Alternative.  I also have written a review on that dryer giving it a high rating also.  I do now wash jeans in the WonderWash, but towels still get put in the large washing machine.  This combination is saving me $40 per month over using my big washing machine and occasional use of my large full-sized dryer.  I also plan to take this on vacation this summer since I think I'd be lost without it now.  :-)\n\nThis product was a personal purchase for myself at the normal retail price. I am reviewing it solely because I want to share my experience with other potential customers. I have received no compensation for my review nor do I have any relationship with the seller or manufacturer of this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2381, "id": 265414, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 253, "len_tokens": 302, "text": "First: my experience with Dynamic Deals: I'll tell you that I was concerned ordering this range at this price, because everyone else wanted hundreds more. But I am pleased to report that it shipped right away, and was delivered within a few days. The shipping service included free removal and installation, however I installed it myself so I didn't use that portion of the service. The stove arrived in it's full packaging, unblemished and perfectly new.\n\nAs far as reviewing the stove is concerned, I couldn't be happier. It a beautiful aesthetic. The display is easy to comprehend and navigate. The touch display is bright and sensitive. I like the lock out feature that keeps kids from activating the stove, or perhaps prevent you from brushing by it and inadvertently turning on the oven. No such feature for the burners. The stove top heats FAST! there is a true \"bridge\" element that turns the two left burners into a longer oblong burner for things like casseroles. There are 5 burner positions. The front right has 3 modes, and a fast boil mode as well. We originally wanted a double oven, but the versatility this offers with the flex duo insert was the selling point. Several reviewers tested the unit as far as holding temps in each of the separated cavities and it passed with high efficiency. It's a true dual convection (2 Fans) oven when separated. The unit has a sensor that acknowledges the insert.\n\nThis is a beautifully engineered and constructed oven.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2382, "id": 57809, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 188, "len_tokens": 368, "text": "I purchased a new washer/dryer set back in December, and had this guy hook everything up for me because of time restraints, everything worked fine for about a month or so, then I discovered the guy that did the install had crimped the vent that runs from the dryer to the outlet, I corrected the problem on my own, only to discover the vent running to the outside was blocked.  I looked at the exhaust while the dryer was running, only to see moisture dripping from under the louvers, I ordered this set along with the extension set because of a twenty-five foot run, and man, I couldn't believe the stuff that came out of there.  Follow the directions, maybe with the exception of the tape and this thing will work, they are serious when they state attach one section at a time, unless you want to feel like you're playing jump rope.  This product saved me $150.00, it's a nasty job, but well worth the savings.<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Gardus-RLE202-LintEater-10-Piece-Rotary-Dryer-Vent-Cleaning-System/dp/B0014CN8Y8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System</a><a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Gardus-R3203612-LintEater-12-Foot-Extension-Kit/dp/B001652LO6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Gardus R3203612 LintEater 12-Foot Extension Kit</a>", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2383, "id": 185835, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 285, "len_tokens": 345, "text": "After 6 months of light use, the circuit board on the washer died. That was around December 1st. The service folks have been great, but the replacement part is on backorder, and every time the service company calls the manufacturer to see what's going on with the part, they keep getting a different date (further and further out) that it might be available.  At first it was going to be available in around 2 weeks. Then it was another week or two. Now the current projection is that the part won't be in stock until the end of January - two whole months!\n\nI haven't tried to call Whirlpool to complain to them yet, but judging from other comments, I'm not sure I need the exercise in frustration. If I do, I'll update this.\n\nI read some of the negative reviews here before I bought my Duet pair, but the sale price for the set was about the list price for a single piece, and I decided that I couldn't pass it up - so I purchased the extended warranty. But the warranty isn't of much use if the parts aren't available.  :-/\n\nSince this has transpired over the holidays, I'm willing to cut the mfg a little slack, but 2 months is unacceptable! My next W/D will be top loader & manual dial.\n\nUPDATE:\nAfter it was fixed, it worked great and I was sad to leave it behind when we sold the house and moved. It's over 3 years old now and never had another problem. I'm upgrading to 4 stars - I still have to knock off a star for the defect and slow repair time. But I came to love it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2384, "id": 88442, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2385, "id": 87334, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 318, "text": "The lint eater is amazing! We recently bought a house that was built in 2001 and previously owned by an older lady, so I assumed the dryer vent had never been cleaned. Before setting up the dryer, I wanted to give the vent line a thorough cleaning for safety's sake and to help the dryer run as efficiently as possible. Well, I'm glad I did! The exterior cover on the vent had been gone for some time, and the amount of leaves and pine needles plus lint wads that I got out were shocking! It seemed like every time I ran the LintEater through line, it dislodged another fist-sized wad of stuff. When I first hooked up the shop vac inside the house, and went out to the vent exit, there was almost zero air getting sucked in. The wads were so huge that they kept stopping up my shop vac hose and I had to keep going inside to clean it out. After all was said and done, my vent line is free-flowing and working as good as new. Glad I spent the money on this product!\n\nHelpful tip - when I started, I just jammed all of the rods together and tried to work it into the vent line. It's way too unwieldy this way, and every time you hit the power on the drill, the rods get kinked and knotted up because they're so flexible. Start with one, and when that one gets most of the way into the vent line, add another. Repeat as necessary and you'll have a MUCH easier time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2386, "id": 378361, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 156, "len_tokens": 376, "text": "My dryer was listed as a match for this part. When they arrived I installed them and after 4 loads of laundry it started making a thumping sound. I opened it up and the rear wheel was shredded. (See photo) I bought a Manufactures Original Equipment. (MOE) replacement for about the same money - Link Here -&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/4392067-NEW-FACTORY-ORIGINAL-OEM-FSP-WHIRLPOOL-KENMORE-MAYTAG-ROPER-ESTATE-KITCHENAID-MAGIC-CHEF-CLOTHES-DRYER-REPAIR-KIT-Includes-1-661570-Belt-4-3396802-Rollers-1-3388672-Idler-8-690997-Tri-Rings-1-233520-Washer-1-279909-Instruction-Sheet/dp/B00K24OYZG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">4392067 NEW FACTORY ORIGINAL OEM FSP WHIRLPOOL KENMORE MAYTAG ROPER ESTATE KITCHENAID MAGIC CHEF CLOTHES DRYER REPAIR KIT ( Includes (1) 661570 Belt (4) 3396802 Rollers (1) 3388672 Idler (8) 690997 Tri Rings (1) 233520 Washer (1) 279909 Instruction Sheet</a>&nbsp;and they have been working fine. Ether they were defective or not heavy duty enough for my dryer? When I contacted the seller they told me to send them pictures and they would get back to me. I sent them the photos but didn't ever hear from them again. Amazon did take them back and refunded my money.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2387, "id": 44917, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 338, "len_tokens": 396, "text": "After returning TWO Avalon Bay Icemakers, the first with a bad fan bearing, the second that was poorly assembled and had condensation on the outside, it was suggested I try this unit in place of the Avalon Bay AB-ICE26S. this review will compare the two machines\n\nFirst the NewAir water reservoir, hold 2 liters of water, compared to one liter in the smaller machines. The ice basket is bigger, and holds more ice. I did manage to crack the ear on the ice basket attempting to remove it with ice in it, I was sent a replacement fairly rapidly.\n\nThe NewAir is a much larger machine physically, the exhaust is on the left rear, near the top, which required finding a new location than the Avalon which was on the right side of the machine. Both machines only make 9 cubes at a time. The three sizes of ice are not any benefit as the largest is still pretty small. The NewAir will keep up with a family's ice needs during the day and evening. Remelting if turned off overnight\n\nOne difference with the Avalon is that the switch to turn off ice production is some type of thermal probe above the top right of the ice bin. So it is possible to have the machine stop making ice before it has filled the basket if an ice-cube lands on it or wedges itself on top of the switch ( it looks like a one inch stainless tube,  the diameter of a pen. Removing the lodged cube will cause the unit to restart, albeit slowly as the thermal switch has to warm itself to signal the machine to restart making ice.\n\nEverything is sort of slow, the machine does not respond quickly to inputs, adding water when the indicator light goes on takes a couple of minutes to clear...just be patient.\n\nWhat I like is that this machine has worked without the problems the Avalon displayed. Have used it for 3 weeks now and this one is a keeper.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2388, "id": 456095, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 272, "len_tokens": 342, "text": "The Bosch SHE68M0 lives up to its reputation as just about the quietest energy efficient machine out there. Its stainless steel exterior is sleekly attractive and the s/s interior makes it durable. We are avid cooks who entertain a lot. But after over a year of ownership, I am disappointed with this machine's shoddy racks, which do not slide into place smoothly; the components often come apart and the rack wheels sometimes fall off. The smaller capacity of the machine makes for overcrowding the loading areas, resulting in a less thorough wash. The rinser dispenser's instructions are confusing. The itsy-bitsy lettering on the controls almost require a magnifying glass to read. Also, one cannot change settings easily using the control buttons. Disregard Bosch's claim that one need not rinse before loading. Doing so merely leaves a bigger mess behind at the filter, which then can also become clogged at the drain exit -- despite regular cleaning of the filter by hand. When this happens, you must remove the filter and unclog the drain by hand.\n Finally, I am disappointed in the cleaning ability: tea- and coffee-stained cups do not get thoroughly cleaned. Also, food often remains stuck on washed items. I used Bosch's recommended detergent -- Electrosol -- which underperformed all the other soaps I have tried; I now use Cascade, but the stains still do not get removed, unlike with my old Kenmore.\nThis machine is adequate, it does the basic job, and very quietly. But its shoddy plastic interior parts and other flaws do not warrant the $1100 I paid for it. I will stick to Kenmore in the future.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2389, "id": 374491, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 264, "len_tokens": 320, "text": "Awesome replacement for the recalled Samsung it replaced.  I'm still adjusting to a washing machine that actually fills with water - twice - to wash and rinse my clothing.  I have to set off the water softener manually from time to time, but not a problem.  It has a gentle spin on some cycles, so I sometimes have to set off the spin cycle to get a bit more water out.  Still, that plus the wash time is under 40 minutes. Compare that to 2.5 hours for the Samsung cycle that barely got anything wet or clean and it is not an issue.  The delivery cross-country was a bit of a wait, but not any longer than waiting for it to be delivered to a retail store and then going to pick it up ourselves. Plus, it was delivered to our doorstep, no sales tax, and 3% reward on the Amazon card, so all of those little things added up to about $100 less than buying it at a retail store.  Most loads take around 30 minutes, so it outpaces the dryer, lol.  This model has the delayed start feature that I am really starting to appreciate.  I can set it up before I go to bed, it starts after the water softener has cycled for the night, and clothes are ready to dry/hang when I get up.  It is a little louder than some models, but nothing major.  It's not like it's a jet engine in the living room.  I like to think of it as a sturdy machine doing its job well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2390, "id": 394486, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 234, "len_tokens": 351, "text": "If you are a fan of craft beer (aka the good stuff), then this kegerator is perfect. Many of the negative reviews about this unit claim that it does not drop to a low enough temperature. I have mine set at 3 (the middle setting) and my beer pours at around 38*F (the optimal serving temp. for most beer types). The individuals making the claim that this kegerator does not get cold enough have generally indicated that they are specifically using it for Bud/Miller/Coors. The lower a beer's temperature, the less flavor/taste you will be able to perceive. With Bud/Miller/Coors, you want them virtually freezing because they taste awful.\n\nOne VERY IMPORTANT thing to remember when setting up the kegerator is to make sure you use the provided rubber gaskets when connecting the couplers to the beer lines. It's not explicitly stated in the set-up instructions, but if you do not do this, the lines will not be water tight and beer will drip down everywhere as soon as the kegs are tapped.\n\nLastly, if you will be using this unit for craft beer, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND purchasing two low profile couplers:&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Low-Profile-US-Sankey-Keg-Coupler-D-System/dp/B006IW80HY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Low Profile US Sankey Keg Coupler - D System</a>\nWhile the unit comes with two regular couplers, many craft breweries use rubber-handle sixtels which are too tall to fit in the unit when tapped with the provided couplers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2391, "id": 58146, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 243, "len_tokens": 303, "text": "I bought this machine from Target and almost did not because of the reviews....Bought it April 4th 2012 worked good for a while then slowly got worse, went thru the manual restarted the initial set up, checked filter, etc.  Don't work now and guess what .....Target won't take back since I have had it over 90 days.  My fault for not reading the fine print on my cash register ticket.  Tomarrow my husband will call the 800# that is in the manual and see what they can input and see how that goes.  When it ran ,  it put out ice and the taste was good, used my Brita waterfilter water for it.  was a little loud I thought.  Now it runs but does not make over one or 2 cubes of ice and they melt quickly.  I should have stayed clear of this product but I was hoping to be one of the lucky ones since we take care of our purchases.\n\n8/24/12  Well to further the story had to send the machine back, $40 to send because of size and weight, had not heard anything since July when I sent it back,  Called to see what was going on, is going to be replaced by Emerson, that is the good news, the bad is $129 to buy, $40 to send back, Scheduled to be replaced in October 2012.  By them replacing rather than repairing tells me there are issues with this product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2392, "id": 125918, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 261, "len_tokens": 311, "text": "I have tried a variety of hot air brushes and hot tools. I have stick strait asian hair that has no volume at baseline and often looks like it's flat against my head. I also usually go to sleep with wet hair and end up with hair that is bent and flattened in the back. I tried the babyliss hot air brush first, which only comes in the 2 inch version, and I sent it back b/c the brush was too large to make any sort of difference for my shoulder length hair (no curl, no bend). I bough the new 1.5 inch version of the conair spin brush, and the diameter is small enough to be effective in my hair. It adds curve and a little volume to give a blowout style. Don't expect this to add much curl as the diameter is too large and it does not get hot enough to do so. Also, I think the previous version of this product had a plastic barrel, which deterred me from buying it, but this version is metal and heats up well so that makes it more effective. The conair brush also has longer and stronger bristles than the babyliss one so it grips onto my slippery hair better. It also has a nice protective cover for the bristles so they don't get bent, which the babyliss product did not. Overall, this one is a keeper and definitely try the 1.5 inch or the combo 2 inch +1.5 inch brush, especially if you have a lob like me.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2393, "id": 88586, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 378, "text": "I bought this last October and finally got around to cleaning our 15-foot dryer duct run. It's just not the type of thing that's at the top of your list... like \"Wow, should I go see a movie, or clean our dryer duct?\" However, our dryer was drying slower and slower, and I knew it was a task that I needed to tackle, so I read the very long instruction book for this and began my work. The instructions really need to be re-written and simplified. My Sony TV has a smaller instruction manual. But I do appreciate the manufacturer's thoroughness. For those of you with short attention spans here's my quick start guide:\n\n1. Screw the rods together and use electrical or duct tape to reinforce the joints to keep them from unscrewing during your work.\n2. Stick one end of rod in your drill and set the clutch pretty close to the lowest or second lowest setting, then increase power if you need it.\n3. Attached brush to other end of rod with supplied key wrench / allen wrench and tighten.\n4. Make sure your drill is on clockwise - not reverse - mode or else the rods will unscrew inside your duct and you're screwed.\n5. Read #4 again.\n6. Turn dryer on air mode and then insert the brush in the pipe outside and begin spinning it by activating the drill. Push it in about a foot, then pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then push it in 2 feet and pull it out and watch the lint fly. Then 3 feet... etc.\n7. Marvel at how much lint came out.\n8. Marvel at how fast your dryer is and come write a review here.\n9. Wash the clothes you were wearing when you did this because they are now covered in lint.\n\nHope this helps. It's a quick job and well worth it the trouble!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2394, "id": 340699, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 282, "len_tokens": 384, "text": "This is for the \"top rack\" only.  But if you're looking at this chances are you already knew that!  I purchased this to replace a Kenmore top rack assembly.  This worked PERFECTLY.  Its metal so right off the bat its more sturdy.  Everything I saw with my old Kenmore everyone complained about the plastic clips breaking off which essentially ruins the whole top rack, making it very unsturdy and falling off completely.  This was the case, when I went to searspartsdirect the replacement was approx $36 + shipping + waiting 7-10 days for it to get here.\n\nAmazon prime wins again.  Under the price, check!  Quicker shipping, check! Better product, check!  Got the product and I must say, its more sturdy now they it EVER was.  My only complaint at all is the instructions were HORRIBLE.  I mean beyond horrible, they should of been written in Chinese that's how bad they were.  Then they try to provide sloppy printed picture diagrams that not even my child could see.  Needless to day we live in a digital world!  YOUTUBE to the rescue.  I found an AMAZING step by step guide on how to disassemble and reassemble this product with EASE.\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSj33DeNZJo  - I must add that I have no connections with the creator of this video.  Just a darn helpful video I found on \"how to\"\n\nI give this 4/5 stars.  I would give it 5 though, instructions made it difficult.\n\nSignature:  I by no means get \"PAID\" to write reviews.  I write my reviews based on a buying (REAL MONEY) customer that is in need / want of a product. I do not get any proceeds off any of my reviews.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2395, "id": 308329, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 339, "len_tokens": 392, "text": "Samsung top of the line product, falls short of expectations.\n\nIndeed both washer and dryer from Samsung are beautiful units and a wonder as long as they work.!\nWe purchased these units in September of 2014.\n\nAfter less 6 weeks  of use the dryer has faulted, and will not run. The dryer unit will start for about 5 seconds but stops with the electronic timer continuing to count down. We have tried To trouble shoot the problem every way we can, but unfortunately this model has very little service history record available. You would think something like this is easy to fix.? Not so with the complicated electronics and circuitry in unit!\n\nWe hope this is an isolated case and we may have a \"lemon\". However we are hearing that other customers who\nmay have brought This product recently may have had similar issues.\n\nAndroid based samsung care app identifies this problem as an open door error. However technicians have looked into  this and feel  the problem is more complicated, could be faulting mototr or burnt out circuit board. This has neen changed once but the Problem persists\nSamsung have been courteous in their assistance but unfortunately after 2 months we remain without a working drier.\nSamsung have not moved forward to replace the units as they state that what their warranty is limited to \"service only\"\nAnd  it is their choice on how they wish to remedy the defect.\n\nFor people seeking after sales service there are obvious limitations when Both parts and services being  provided by third parties,\nservicing other makes or brands, who have limited resources for parts or for scheduling appointments. Either the parts are out of stock or the technician is unavailable for more than two weeks at a time. Warranty claims have to be routed via an 1800 customer service who for repeated calls will direct you to an executive customer support, who trained very well to be cautious and give lip service.\n\nLessons :  There may be better options available to you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2396, "id": 475424, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 313, "len_tokens": 370, "text": "I've had this machine for years now in a NYC Coop apartment.  I keep it in a hall closet across from a bathroom.  I wheel it out when I want to use it and park it outside the bathroom door, hook it up to the sink and drain it into the bathtub.  I put one of those hair catchers over the drain in the tub to collect any lint that might get past the interior filter.  I have never stopped up the tub or had any problem with the 1939 plumbing.  A couple of years ago, I had to replace the drain hose - but I think that was because I pulled it too tight to make it go around the door and into the tub and it finally made a small hole in the hose.  When I replaced it, I left more room on the inside of the unit for the hose, and I added an extender so that I have plenty of hose to work with to reach the tub.  MIdway between, it hangs on a towel hook, as the hose must be above the top of the unit to drain properly.  This machine gets things really clean.  I do separate some of the clothes into mesh bags because the clothes do get knotted.  About six months ago, I got tired of hanging things up to dry, or going to the basement common laundry room to dry towels and sheets, so I bought the small 110 Avanti dryer.  I put it on a dolly and had a wood round top and same size glass top cut for it.  I put a beautiful floor length cloth between the wood and the glass, and it is camouflaged as a gorgeous, mobile, side table.  These really work for me and are a great solution for apartment dwellers in buildings that don't have built-in hook-ups.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2397, "id": 561829, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 192, "len_tokens": 317, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R2ZLVXB29VZ94S\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91cr9ndQ-KS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91zAUrab1yS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;This replacement filter installed easily in my refrigerator and aside from some minor cosmetic differences, looks just like my OEM filter that costs several times as much. I've included side by side pictures for your consideration. It installed in my refrigerator without issue (see video). It did not leak. It made the little red indicator light signaling my refrigerator needed a new filter go off. The water tastes fine.\n\nSummary: 4/5 stars for fulfilling the item description. Replacement 5231JA2006A Refrigerator Filter that easily installs and is detected by the refrigerator. I was not able to find out more information about this filter online except what was on the Amazon website.\n\nI purchased this replacement refrigerator water filter at a discount in exchange for my honest and unbiased review. As a matter of routine, I give items that meet their descriptions a rating of 4 stars, and 5 stars if they exceed my expectations. If this review was helpful to you, please let me know by clicking the YES button below so I can continue to improve my reviews.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2398, "id": 551978, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 329, "len_tokens": 372, "text": "I have had mine for two plus years now. We replaced a huge full size side by side fridge with this counter depth fridge.  It is true that the ice maker is small and doesn't make much ice; but, if I had a choice I wouldn't have an ice maker inside my fridge anyway. This one doesn't take up valuable space inside the main compartment. The freezer bin and its drawers are so well designed that I can keep as much frozen food as my old side by side freezer held. The doors easily shut without having to check on them. We have a different brand French door fridge in our camp house on which the doors don't \"grab\" and I would replace that brand with Another of this exact model if I could afford it. The full drawer in the middle allows me to prepare a huge tray of appetizers. The depth is the full depth of the fridge, so when other counter depths might interfere with entertainment, this ones does not. The middle drawer can be a diff temp from the upper fridge section too, so we have used it for ice cream (cold enough to have it soft and not rock hard, for beer, for white wine that is chilled but not too cold, etc. we get our use out of this. I probably won't ever go back to a side by side. And the drawer feature is on my list forever too.\n\nThe diamond black color is actually better than the shines black one I had before. I was uncertain about the color, but I wanted black and appliance manufacturers apparently decided true black was out of style (not). The diamond black works fine with my other solid black appliances, and it doesn't show fingerprints and smudges quite as bad as the pure black or stainless steel surfaces do.\n\nWould I buy this one again? Yes! Would I recommend it to a friend? Yes!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2399, "id": 105074, "interval": [300, 400], "len_words": 308, "len_tokens": 362, "text": "This is by far the worst, most horrendous online purchase we've ever made. They sent a unit that was either defective or damaged during shipping. Two major, catastrophic issues. 1) We happily started the unit. All was looking great until water started leaking all over the floor. I stopped it (obviously) and took the back panel off to see if I could identify the leak point (bear in mind we followed assembly instructions to the very letter). I noticed a plastic piece on the tub assembly was obviously broken, and water was coming out in a small stream. Its worth noting there were no unidentified pieces in the box or washer anywhere, which leads me to believe the unit was shipped already damaged. I'm handy, so I fixed the leak with a tiny screw wrapped in some Teflon tape. Great. No more leaking. 2) after confirming the leak was repaired we started the unit again. This time it didn't stop adding water. It just kept going and going until it spilled over the inside tub and again covered our floor in water. We stopped the unit and had to manually drain it since there is no drain function. It was a pain in the rear to say the least. We thought we'd give it one more try on the low water level setting. Overfilled again. Clearly this is a piece of garbage. I got it Friday, assembled it Saturday, but of course missed the customer service hours by 20 minutes. Not open until Monday. So I have to sit here stressed out with this piece of crap until then. Id be willing to update my star rating and review if customer service is unlike anything I've ever experienced. I somehow doubt it... Don't buy. For all that is holy, don't buy this machine. Its a true nightmare.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2400, "id": 68752, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 392, "len_tokens": 454, "text": "When I purchased this drawer dishwasher, we were excited to be able to start downsizing kitchen chores, using less energy made sense as our children started going off to college. Based on our experiences with past KitchenAid appliances (a refrigerator we own and using a full sized dishwasher at the in-law's house) we were confident it was a good decision. Well, we couldn't have been more wrong! Within a month of installation (done by the dealer), we came home to find the kitchen floor flooded after leaving the dishwasher running when leaving for work, called the dealer who came out and replaced some of he hoses. Six weeks later, same problem, but this time we noticed that one of the \"covers\" over the vents on the inside of the front end had fallen off. This time we were told to call KitchenAid service since we were now using our extended warranty. A service call was made to our house to replace the cover which we now learned, had fallen off due to the plastic fingers that engage the vent opening in the front wall of the drawer had broken/worn off.\n\nSince then, KitchenAid has replaced the original dishwasher with a new one (we begged for a different model but they refused) and subsequently has dispatched a service rep more than 10 times to replace the same part, on both drawers, after leaking all over the floor, again. All of these visits have required that someone miss a day of work waiting for the repair, and the last time, the service rep had 6 new caps shipped to our house directly from KitchenAid parts, so we could replace them ourselves, after the kitchen floods. I have run out of this shipment of parts and will be placing a new service call to have someone come out again, another day of missed work, and replace the same cover. For this much money, at least KitchenAid should stand behind their product instead of hiding behind it. They should have recalled these a long time ago for all of the problems and poor performance.\n\nThe worst kitchen appliance I have ever owned and the last KitchenAid appliance I will ever buy. Don't buy it. I am looking at a Samsung as a replacement since I am afraid of the permanent damage to the flooring and cabinets.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2401, "id": 502034, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 337, "len_tokens": 434, "text": "Correct (revised OEM) part for our 16-yr old Kenmore HE3t Front Loader. Slightly thicker/stiffer than the one I replaced - so requires a little more effort to close/latch the door. Fit was exact; cutouts (2) for soap dispenser/hose correct. No leaks so far. Have to say I was a bit of a slacker and reused the (horizontally-geared) inner hose-clamp band and the outer spring-band. Both tightened up fine.\nThe old door seal was not leaking (even after 16 yrs of hard work) BUT we could not get rid of the mold smell in the drum - in spite of repeated sanitary cycles w/bleach; cleaning tabs; leaving door open, etc. Had gotten to the point that if you left the clothes in the washer after a cycle they'd also smell like mold. Determined that the most likely culprits were this door seal/bellows and the inner discharge hose (I replaced the pump assembly- after 15 yrs of use - last year). Replaced both; and this worked - washer does not smell like mold for the first time in years. I have attached a pic of the old seal to give you an idea of how gross these things get; note that we HAVE cleaned this part (w/bleach products) regularly - but the outer drum (plastic) mating surface (which is inaccessible unless you pull front panel off and uninstall door seal) was also covered in mold and had to be cleaned. Second pic (which Amazon has turned sideways) shows this surface (white plastic, now all cleaned up). You can see in the 1st pic that there's mold growing in the seal recesses/grooves which CANNOT be accessed for cleaning.\nSo if you've got the MOLD problem (inevitable in this machine unless you live in an arid climate) changing out this seal will fix it - at least for a while. The inner discharge hose also smelled pretty moldy when I pulled it out; I could have cleaned it probably but a replacement was not that expensive. Hope that helps!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2402, "id": 153184, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 343, "len_tokens": 407, "text": "I just finished installing this kit in my Kenmore refrigerator, so let me tell you how it went.\n\nFirst, I found a video on YouTube that showed how to replace the ice door--it is currently posted by AppliancePartsPro. It was quite helpful--up to a point.\n\nThe video shows how to replace the door, but the kit comes with the door, door mounting bracket, spring, and dashpot (that's the black cylindrical thing). I was VERY glad I had the full kit because the white plastic bracket on which the door mounts was broken, which is why my door didn't seal correctly.\n\nThe video makes it look like a 20 minute job, which it probably is on a new refrigerator. However, as others have noted, the hardest part is to remove the front plate without breaking it. I wish I could give tips on how to do it, but just use a putty knife and/or slot screwdriver on the bottom of the panel (look for the two slots) and take your time. I spent an hour on that part (well, part of the time was searching the Internet for clues on how to remove it--there aren't any). But if your refrigerator has been in use for a decade or two, the front panel will adhere and be difficult to remove.\n\nYou can take pictures as you go, or refer back to the YouTube video.\n\nThe new dashpot (the black cylinder) seems to work a little differently than the old one, or maybe the old one was worn out. It slows the closure of the ice door, giving time for the ice to fall through, and then snaps shut. I like it. Google \"dashpot\"; I assume Wikipedia has a good description.\n\nSo it only took two years and 3 hours for me to replace it (my wife asked me for two years to do something about it).\n\nSo now my next job it to fix the leaking Kohler Avatar faucet I bought some years ago. I'll let you all know how it goes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2403, "id": 111023, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 322, "len_tokens": 411, "text": "I bought this Maytag 2000 series washer to replace our 1st generation Maytag Neptune after its control panel went out in a cloud of electrical smoke; it was a good, simple machine with mechanical, not electronic, controls. Bought it when it was first introduced, ran it on our solar-electric system and it always functioned properly. As for the 2000 series washer, it does not stack-up to the performance of the original Neptune.  FIRST, this 2000 series machine only has one useful setting: the Rapid Wash cycle (the others take way too long). With it,your wash is finished in 28 to 34 minutes (depending upon the soil level setting you choose) ASSUMING THAT THE MACHINE FUNCTIONS PROPERLY DURING THE SPIN CYCLE.  SECOND, this machine often has trouble balancing the load during the spin cycle.  This either greatly extends the running time of the machine, or it finally just gives-up and shuts down, leaving you with a load of wash that's much too soggy to put into the dryer.  THIRD, related to the proceeding problem, it's not possible to stop the machine, open it, manually redistribute the load to balance it, then continue with the spin cycle. Once this washer is shut-down, because it is an electronic rather than a mechanically controlled device, it can only be restarted from the beginning of the wash cycle, i.e., you have to wash everything again and hope that it spins properly, this time; a waste of your time, a waste of electrical energy and water to boot.  FORTH, we can't run this electronic machine on our older, solar-power system due to technical reasons that I won't go into.  The gist: This machine was likely designed and tested by engineers who don't actually do the laundry at home.  If I can find a refurbished, earlier model Neptune or equal, I'll gladly trade-in this 2000 series Maytag for the older one and cut my laundry day losses.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2404, "id": 171236, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 354, "len_tokens": 402, "text": "Just like every other review for these suspension rods, our Whirlpool Cabrio HE washer had been going on the fritz after a few years of decent service. It started out that only a few loads would result in the UL (unbalanced load) error message, and this was usually when washing towels or comforters or other bulky items, so we assumed it was our fault. As time progressed (I'd say over a few months), this problem got worse and worse until every single load we put into the washer resulted in the UL error message.\n\nWe were pretty desperate at this point and started looking online and read on a few forums that the suspension rods on these types of washes sometimes get worn out and this could be the problem. We were fairly skeptical about this at first, but the price was certainly right to give it the old college try.\n\nInstallation was pretty easy. It helps if you have narrow arms and a friend to help lift the basket up to remove the old suspension rods and install the new ones. These rods use plastic bushings instead of grease, which supposedly helps them last longer than the old ones, and the bushings were at the very bottom of the narrow box they arrived in, so be sure to check the box before throwing it away! Be sure to clean all the grease off of where the old suspension rods sat. For the new rods, the suspension bearing must be seated in the little plastic bushing, so you must have the bushing snapped into the opening BEFORE you fish the new suspension rod through it and attach the bearing. In total, it took me and my husband about 30 minutes to replace the old suspension rods and wipe down the inside of the washing machine.\n\nWe installed these new rods about 4 months ago, and so far we have not had even a single unbalanced load problem, which is VERY encouraging.\n\nSo in summation, these new suspension rods seem to have solved our unbalanced load problem, and were inexpensive and very easy to install.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2405, "id": 484417, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "It's a great little machine. The dishes are coming out sparkling clean, and I love the small drawer footprint in my kitchen. It doesn't hold much, and probably wouldn't work for a family with children, but it's perfect for a household of one or two. I find I am running it every other day or so. It looks absolutely great.\n\nI purchased a Fisher Paykel laundry set a couple of years ago on the recommendation of my appliance repairman. I've really liked them, so I wasn't scared off by the review ranting about how awful the company is. I haven't had to work with them directly, but my appliance repairman doesn't seem to have any problem working with them on warranty issues and replaced a mangled control panel on the dryer at no charge to me.\n\nI was concerned about the review from the woman who said her drawer arrived with dents. The packaging for shipping for this product was AWFUL. The drawer sat in styrofoam at the top and bottom and then was shrink wrapped in a heavy plastic--totally insufficient for travel. The UPS man arrived solo and wasn't about to lift the 70 lb. bundle, so he \"rolled\" it out of the back of the truck, at which point I stopped him and went to get lift-and-carry help. We were relieved to see there was no damage--or so we thought. After it was completely installed, we peeled the protective plastic off to find a big dent at the bottom edge.\n\nAmazon gave me a refund of 25% of the purchase price, which I somewhat unhappily accepted since there didn't seem to be anything I could do about any of it. As the review from the woman whose drawer arrived with dents said, there was no good way to ship it back (the styrofoam was broken in many places) and it was already installed. I called my appliance repairman and Fisher Paykel would not pay for \"cosmetic\" damage under warranty. However, the cost of a new front panel was about the same as the Amazon refund and Fisher Paykel did cover the service call under warranty. So it all worked out okay--it just took a lot of my time and energy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2406, "id": 273675, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 318, "len_tokens": 402, "text": "First id like to preface this review by saying I have a Max Burton induction cooktop and I have high quality chef  cooking pots and pans so I know induction cooktops don't perform this bad; these other 5 star reviews must be from newbs who don't understand how these things work and/or are just looking to buy an overprice water boiler. Of course we know 95% of people don't even know how to cook, so their food would get destroyed with or without this; so they will see no change in getting a better product. 95% of americans just buy junk to hoard in their house and never it and eat at Mc DOnalds 24/7 instead of cooking. Thats very likely the defining  point to the good reviews. This is the only reasons I can come up with why anyone would review this good.\n\nPro: Lives up the the rosewill standards and quality guidelines. (none at all) WIll heat up really fast and boil (on the lowest setting even), so if you are tarded and need a new stovetop just  to boil water for coffee; this will do.\n\nCons. Lives up to the high standards of the Rosewill brand (none at all). Pure trash.  It will warm milk till its warm enough to kill a army of babies, or just kill you if are warming a sinus rinse application to melt your insides with. Boils over on lowest setting. Sunnyside eggs are burnt on the bottom and uncooked on top Burns up rice in minutes when \"simmering\" (after its boiled all the water out on the device and the counter and the floor), will kill your baby if you \"warm up\" the milk with this.\n\nSecond thoughts: Being Rosewill brand the likelyhood it will break then somehow burn down your house eventually is expected to be above 50%. Specially when its throwing water everywhere. AVOID ROSEWEED PRODUCTS!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2407, "id": 458965, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 339, "len_tokens": 431, "text": "I bought this cooktop in November 2012. By February 2013, I started having problem with the automatic ignition. I placed service call to Kitchenaid. They came out and replaced the ignitor. It worked for a month, and the automatic ignitor failed again. I called and they came out and replaced the ignitor again plus some other electronic parts. This time it worked for couple months. In July 2013, the automatic ignitor failed again. I called for service again. This time, Kitchenaid wanted to do the same thing they have been doing in the past by replacing new ignitor and some more parts. I requested for a new cooktop replacement since the same problem occurs 3 times. Each time, it takes a minimum of 2 or 3 appointments for technician to come to do a diagnostic, order parts, and come back to install parts. Every time they come, they give me a window of 4 to 6 hours of waiting. I have to take time off from work and wait for them.\nKitchenAid has refused to replace my cooktop. They want to keep replacing ignitors and parts until I am out of warranty and the problem is solved. Come on KitchenAid, this is an expensive luxury cooktop that costs more than a thousand dollars. Is this the way KitchenAid stand behind their products? The best KitchenAid can do is to send people to my house to replace ignitors and parts every other month? They don't care about their customer time and inconvenience. I will never buy another product from them again. And I will make sure my friends and family know about this.\n==>UPDATE 09/27/2013\nAfter the third attempt to fix the ignitors problem failed, KitchenAid management team has agreed to send me a brand new cooktop with brand new 12 months warranty. That's what customer service should be! Thanks KitchenAid. I am happy now. The new unit seems to be working fine so far. Hopefully, the cooktop that I got initially was just an unusual/unlucky one in the systems.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2408, "id": 58052, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 380, "len_tokens": 455, "text": "I had been having problems with my dryer for the past couple of weeks.  It all began with a piece of bad ducting put in but the home builders that acted like the perfect lint trap behind the dryer.  Well, eventually the lint buildup was enough to take the ducting apart and I looked behind the dryer only to find a giant clog and lint all over the floor and wall.  Well, I cleaned everything out that I could inside and outside and it still took forever to dry.\n\nI read a bunch of \"How To's\" on what might be wrong so I measured all the resistances on the heating element, thermal cutoffs, etc and they all read to spec.  So I figured it might be the ducting still, I have two 90 in my ducting so I figured it was caught in one of those and pretty plugged up to not be working.  So rather than root around in my attic and try and find where they buried the ducting in the insulation I decided to buy this thing off of here.  It's about $10-15 cheaper on amazon than hardware stores or home improvement stores.\n\nI was kind of skeptical, but figured what the hell.  I was pleasantly surprised, the auger brush hooked easily into my cordless drill and fed itself through the ducting.  I bought the extensions because my ducting goes 27'.  But it cleaned it out very well and is very easy to use.  It even bent easily around the 90 I thought was plugged.  The pile of lint that came out would help explain why my dryer is now shot.  No airflow equals a no-no for dryers...they need it for internal cooling...and gas removal for gas dryers (CO).  But at least now I have this so I can clean my ducting out once in a while to keep the new dryer from burning up.  It was an old dryer anyways so it was about time to replace it and the washer which is also having issues.  But I definitely recommend this to anyone.\n\nOne thing you can check to see if it the ducting rather than the dryer too is let your dryer run disconnected from the vent.  won't actually hurt anything for one load.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2409, "id": 196718, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 370, "len_tokens": 435, "text": "We had moved into a Condo from a private home and I have a touch of Asthma well, moving in there was the worst thing we could have done because, my Asthma got so bad living in there we found out after we bought the Condo that two lady's that smoked very heavily lived in the Condo also, tehy had two Cat's and tyere was Mold and Mildew coming from the Cabinets's my Asthma was so bad for ten months in the Condo then, one night when my husband was watching TV there was an AD from Stanley Steemer and the Vital Oxide well, the rug needed to be cleaned anyway so we went for the Fogging treatmkent from Stanley Steemer when the tech did the treatment he fogged everything even the cielings walls everything that the fog could reach well, let me tell you that was the best money that we ever spent because, my Asthma was so much better almost right away and so I ordered it for my daughyter because, her son has a touch of Asthma like I do and she fogged the whole house she has a huge house the first room she did was my Grandson's Room and it helped him also, Thank God for whoever made that Formula because, I swear by it I think it got rid of any irritent that was in my Condo and in my Daughter's hoise, I ended up selling that Condo but, not because I was sick in it anymore but, because, from being sick and knowing that smokers lived in there for several years doinh a very good job of masking the smoke smell because, I didn't smell it when we went to look at the Condo with Realtor, when my daughter is finished doing the entire treatment to her entire house I will do the Condo that I just bought just to be on the safe side for my Asthma.\n\nAgain I give The Vital Oxide a five star mark I love it and it really works, I will always have it in my Condo,.\n\nThank you very much for developing this formula you really know your stuff and God Bless You.\n\nRegards,\nLaurie", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2410, "id": 110768, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 358, "len_tokens": 447, "text": "OK, I changed this from 5 stars to one star because it burned out after about 1.5 years. The original lasted about five times as long, and the way this one deteriorated, it is clearly inferior quality. I ended up replacing the oven, since it was a low end unit, but I might still be using it, if that igniter hadn't burned out so fast. Next time I'd pay up for a real GE replacement part, not this look alike version. It's basically junk.\n\nThis is my original review which should still be helpfull for people doing this repair-- This is an aftermarket copy of the original Norton 501A igniter. While it's marketed as the original GE part, it isn't. It does work and fit exactly as the original, and in one sense it is better than getting the replacement that includes the original plug. While the directions state to leave the original plug on, and to use the ceramic wire nuts to splice the wires together after the original connection; I chose to cut the somewhat deteriorated (appeared to be discolored, cracked, and burnt) original connection off. Since there is a ton of extra wire supplied with this aftermarket part, this is relatively easy, and eliminates the much weaker, original connection. By the way, the only tricky part of this is pulling the original plug out and carefully stripping a quarter inch of the four inches available. If you have a sharp wire stripper, and you work carefully (and slowly), the whole job might take 45 min. If, on your oven there isn't enough extra wire (unlikely), or you can't find the original plug, just splice the wire and don't worry about this. There are pretty much, only two igniters used in all ovens, this square Norton style, and a round Carborundum style. It seems that this is, by far, the most common problem, and just because an igniter glows, doesn't mean that the current it allows to pass to the gas valve, is addequate to open it. Don't be fooled if you see that the igniter is still glowing. Have fun--Let the force be with you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2411, "id": 477950, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 331, "len_tokens": 408, "text": "JB Hunt contacted me within a week to schedule the delivery.  Since I wasn't home, they left a message saying they could deliver the Amana washing machine on Thursday and that they would call me back Wednesday to let me know a 4 hour window for delivery.  I received a second call, very professional and friendly, Wednesday morning to confirm that the Thursday delivery would be all right.  JB Hunt gave me a 4 hour window of 8-12 AM on Thursday morning.  The drivers were to call me when they were 30 minutes from delivery and installation.  Then I received another robocall confirming the delivery window\n\nThe drivers called at 9:20 AM to say they would be here in 15-20 minutes and in fact arrived a little ahead of that.  We had removed our old washing machine, even though they were contracted to do so, to move it to our son's house.  They dismantled the hookup and measured to install new hoses.  They put absorbent cloths down on the floor before they brought in the washing machine so as to not damage the floor.  They hooked up the machine, checked to make sure it was level (it was), and ran it through a cycle.  That took about 10 minutes of the entire 30 they were here.  Then they rolled up the floor cloth again as they backed out the door.\n\nThe delivery men were friendly and polite.  Even my dog liked them and barked only as an announcement, which was a huge cry from the welcome the UPS guy gets:  Syd starts barking the minute the UPS driver turns down the street and then slams himself against the fence or the door, barking ferociously until the UPS truck leaves, or until someone throws a frisbee.  Even Syd liked these two and he's a tough customer.\n\nI found this to be a completely positive experience, nothing at all like the delivery guys who barely drop and run (or throw and run).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2412, "id": 166817, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 345, "len_tokens": 450, "text": "Note that the following is regarding FAFW3577KW1, a previous iteration of this model; perhaps the current model has improved.\n\nMy tiny, 1970s-construction laundry closet isn't deep enough for most current models, and I insist on being able to close the closet door, so I had limited choices at my local dealer...basically, this was it. The installers had a terrible time stacking the corresponding dryer on top of this washer and installing the set in my closet, so I was hoping it would last for many years. I read the manual, followed all the instrux and took good care of it. Since it's just me, I've probably run only about 50 loads since I purchased the set.\n\nTo my dismay, about a month ago--just over a year and a half after my purchase--I heard beeping sounds coming from the laundry closet while the machines were idle. Upon opening the closet, I discovered that the beeping was coming from the washer and that all of its lights (including the panel lights and the interior light) were randomly flashing on and off as well. It was possessed! I had to unplug the machine to get the beeping and flashing to stop.\n\nThe set is barely out of warranty since Electrolux offers just one year (they've apparently got this down to a science). Fortunately, I'd used a VISA card to make the purchase, and VISA will cover the repair, which will be 2/3 of what this washer cost.\n\nThe repair guy from the local Electrolux authorized service center, when he came out to do the estimate, said these particular machines break down all the time. In fact, he suggested I sell the set online and get a better one, like the Whirlpool Duet set (which I already know won't fit in my closet). I'd rather have spent twice as much for something that's not total junk. If anyone can recommend a different set that's actually reliable and is 29-and-3/4\" deep or less, I'm open to suggestions. I'll check back here, or you can email me at kristenlmail-1[at]yahoo[dot]com.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2413, "id": 45140, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 385, "len_tokens": 446, "text": "I've had this ice maker for a few weeks now and I just love it.  My family uses ice constantly and as we don't have an ice maker in the freezer I was tired of constantly filling and emptying manual ice trays.  I put this on the counter next to the fridge, filled it with water and ice cubes appeared in minutes!  This is not a freezer, so any ice left sitting will eventually melt back into the water reservoir.  We use the ice throughout the day and at bedtime I pour what's left into a ziplock bag and store it in the freezer for when we have guests.  Any extra ice I pour back into the water reservoir in order to keep he water in there cold overnight, as the unit works better the cooler it is inside the unit.  Knowing this, I keep a jug of water in the fridge for refilling the water reservoir, which is not necessary but I don't mind doing.  It has a metal bar that extends into the top of the ice basket and when ice touches it the unit knows that the ice bucket is full and stops making ice.  It starts making ice again when the ice is no longer touching the bar.  The ice basket is easy to take out and use, although I tip it back and forth a few times while it's still in the unit first to avoid water dripping onto the floor, as the ice melting and the ice making process both allow a little water to pool in the bottom of the ice basket.  The basket is perforated to allow the water through, it's just that a little water still gathers on the bottom of the basket.  It has a light to notify you when the ice is full or it needs to be filled with water.  3 sizes of ice \"cubes\" to choose from.  I run it all day, every day and have had no problems with reliability so far, and it makes ice VERY quickly.  If I have a breakdown or some other problem I'll come back and update my review  then.  It is about the size of a bread maker in regard to height and width, but front-to-back it's about double the size of a bread maker.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2414, "id": 494959, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 418, "len_tokens": 488, "text": "I purchased this refrigerator because i love the look and  was looking for a 24\" wide and less than 65\" H. I thought it would fit well with my small NYC apartment. I received it on 9/1/15 from enVive Home and I am disappointed to say that the description that enVive Home has on their website does not say that the fridge has to be deforested manually. After twenty minutes the back of the fridge was frosted and the freezer I still cannot open. The door is very tight, I have to hold the fridge with one hand and open it with the other hand and pull the door open - yes it is that difficult to open. The shelves on the door are all cheap looking plastic, not like the images I saw on line. The problem is that enVive have decided to allow me to return the fridge but they want me to pay $150 for return and 20% for restocking fees. Given that they are misleading customers by not letting them know that the fridge needs to be manually defrosted I should get a full refund. I contacted SMEG USA and they were very helpful, they representative I spoke with wonders why customers are not told that the fridge needs to manually defrosted. He said I would have to put a bowl with hot water in the freezer to defrost it. He also said that I should tell EnVive Home that the fridge's description was not accurate on their website and that I just want to return it because ENVive kept telling me that they have to contact SMEG and they decide on a return. I told them that I purchase the fridge from them and not SMEG and that I want to return it. I contacted Amazon for further help and they currently filed a claim on my behalf. Amazon is very helpful and I am hoping that the fees would be waived. for a $2000 fridge the service should be superior from EnVive but I am very disappointed in both EnVive Home  and the operation of the fridge. I would advice anyone who wishes to purchase this item to please check with  the manufacturer SMEG for specific details because  the appliance companies WILL NOT tell you the important descriptions and functions. I will continue to shop amazon because of their superb service, but I WILL NEVER order anything from EnVive. Home. The fridge is currently in my apartment awaiting a decision for return.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2415, "id": 509845, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 406, "len_tokens": 482, "text": "This was the largest item I have ever purchased on Amazon primarily because local stores did not stock induction stoves.  The stove arrived on time and in excellent condition I was very impressed!  It was also delivered with a lift-gate equipped truck which made it even more convenient.\n  Installation was quick and easy just install the power cord (transfer from old stove if not too old or purchase new) this stove uses either 3 or 4 wire cord.  Anti-tip bracket is included to mount to the floor.  A cool thing about this stove is the links that connect between the oven door and the bottom rack that pulls the rack out when you open the door and pushed the rack back in when you close the door, great for heavy roasting pans.\n  The downside is 99% of our cookware was aluminum and non-magnetic stainless steel so we only had one small nu-wave fry pan and a large kettle for boiling water that we could use.  I see all cookware being induction compatible in the future.  But to be safe take a small magnet with you when you shop for open stock cookware to insure it will work.\n  Operation:  The oven comes with 3 racks I replace two of the racks with ceramic racks that can be cleaned inside the oven during the clean cycle.  I put the chrome racks in the bottom drawer for storage (do not clean chrome racks in the oven with self-clean function)!\n  The 4 quart kettle we have was boiling in the time it took to make two slices of toast and butter them.  The heat instantly stops when you switch off the burner and displays \"HE\" for a couple of minutes while the cook-surface cools.  By the time two more pieces of toast were made the cook-surface was cool enough to touch without getting seriously burned.  If a cook surface is left on it will not activate unless there is a magnetic item on the surface, after a few seconds it turns off automatically.  The oven if left on will turn off automatically after 6 hours since we are guilty of leaving the stove or oven on these are excellent safety features.\n  This model is manufactured by Electrolux so I was even more impressed,  I have used Electrolux products since I was a teen and have always liked the qualty of their products.  You won't go wrong if you purchase this.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2416, "id": 434110, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 390, "len_tokens": 445, "text": "I was out West and in a new place and was just doing my clothes in the sink and hand ringing them out and said I need something to help cause this is a pain and I saw this washer in here and said eh why not, what can this little thing do anyway but it's better than this.. to my surprise when it came a couple days later I was completely stunned at how well this washer actually works!! I hooked it up in about 2 minutes with ease and did a load and it would up washing Better than a large washer!! It doesn't have a conventinal agitator, it uses it's pump to jet the water right then left and it's very powerful.. it got my clothes very clean, then I put them in the spin cylinder on the right and put it on 5 mins on the spin and again this motor is very powerful and it spin so good my clothes were almost dry just from the spin.. I started hanging them up in my bathroom with hangers on my shower rod with an electric heater and the overhead vent turned on and these clothes were now drying in about 20 minutes, 30 on the jeans.. that's it.. the washer kicks butt!! Then later I bought the same brand dryer and I was in heaven.. no more bringing my clothes to the laundromat no more bringing them and it takes up almost no space..  then I realized, wait I have a motorhome.. so I started using it in there and I'm on my 2nd one now.. at this cheap price you absolutely can't go wrong..  these are just unreal for camping, traveling, for an RV of any sort .. and the best part is you can throw it in your cars back seat because it's light enough for an average woman or a teanager to move around and pick up with it's 2 handles on it's sides .. it weighs about ten or 15 pounds at the most.. this is a must buy for anyone on the road or a camper with a tent or an RV, or a dorm student, or even if your just 1 person or just a couple.. I would have started buying these things years ago if I knew they existed..", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2417, "id": 87331, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2418, "id": 467042, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 357, "len_tokens": 461, "text": "Let me start by saying im really good at internet diagnosing things. Everybody texts me their problem and i text the fix or test procedure back to them. Cars, computers, appliances, hvac, electrical you name it i can google diagose it.\n\nI got lazy on this one. Kenmore 790 oven wouldnt fire up. I read \"igniter\" several times in my searching, most people had luck replacing theirs. Amazon prime for the win, 2 days later (today) i have an exact replacement installed in 5 minutes. Dope... Works? ...Nope...  Wat\n\nOven still won't light. Hmm. Igniter isn't glowing. Didnt even bother to check it before, google says if the igniter doesnt glow and you know its good its a power supply problem to the igniter. Ok.\n\nRecheck wires, all good. Found some switchy looking thing with two wires nearby the igniter, unplugged thingy and bypassed, no dice. Pulled oven out and take off panel on back. Check wires, etc. Looks fine. Google says check thermal fuse if it has one. Mine doesnt have one.\n\nThen the dreaded... \"its probably the control panel\" Gah. Checked the wires at the panel, seems fine. Smacked it around a little. Turned the oven on with the panel removed from the rear, heard the initial click, pause, and then a very faint/brief sizzle noise from the panel.\n\nI know the sizzle noise. Electrical arcing. Traced the igniter circuit wire to the corresponding pin on the panel connector so i could trace the circuit on the pcb, and after carefully removing the first of two boards from the panel, sure enough i found a broken solder joint on the back of the board where the relay sends power to that circuit.\n\nRe flowed the solder joint and reassembled the panel, put the oven back together and it works! Included some pics of my escapades so hopefully it will help somebody else with their kenmoore oven.\n\nSo ultimately this product was shipped fast, was correct and it worked. However even though it came with the slick ceramic wire nuts, i still had to break out my soldering iron to get my oven to work haha.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2419, "id": 192127, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 312, "len_tokens": 403, "text": "I read the seemingly equal bad and good reviews and almost shied away from this, but figured at half the cost of the OEM part it would be worth it to try it once.  I'm glad I did!  It has worked perfectly for the last week or so that we've had it installed.  Popped right in just like the OEM filter and my water pressure is great (maybe even a little better than my last filter).  I followed the instructions and ran about 3 gallons of water through it and can't notice any change in taste from the OEM filters.  My fridge model: RF4287HARS\n\nUPDATE 1/29/15: We moved about 7 months ago and bought another Samsung refrigerator (RF263BEAESR).  Both models use the same Samsung filter, so when it was time to replace the Samsung filter that came with the fridge, I didn't hesitate to order the WSS-2.  But when I put it in the fridge the water flow was incredibly slow (it would take maybe 90 seconds to fill a 14oz glass).  I popped the filter out and the water flow was great.  Popped the filter back in and it was agonizing slow again.  So, I assumed that I received a defective filter and initiated a return with Amazon. I ordered another WSS-2 and it behaved the exact same way (super low water flow).  I took the filters out a handful of times and double checked the compatibility numerous times.  So, I was about to call Samsung for warranty service on the fridge, but I figured the first question they would ask would be whether or not I was using an OEM filter.  So, I ordered a Samsung filter (Da29-00020b) and put it in.  BOOM - great water flow.  So, while the WSS-2 seemed to be okay for my original fridge, it did not work with the RF263BEAESR.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2420, "id": 107288, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 367, "len_tokens": 448, "text": "I read all of the reviews of this product before purchasing, and despite what I considered a pretty high price decided to give these vibration feet a try to quiet  the vibration of a chest freezer.  The freezer is fairly quiet as most models go, but we recently relocated it to a spot in the mud room where it seems to vibrate through the floor system more noticeably that the previous location on a concrete floor.\n\nThe item description didn't give much information about the actual size or profile of the feet, and the photos of a black blob didn't do much either.  I had envisioned something much different.  The base is about 2 1/2\" in diameter, angling up to about 2 1/4\" at the top. in a slight cone-shape.  The height is about one inch, but the center is recessed at the top, slightly dished in by about 1/4\".  So the actual foot of your machine cannot be larger than 1 3/4\" in diameter.  Your machine will be raised about 3/4\" higher that previously.\n\nThe bottom half of the product is a softer rubber material than the top half, and two of the feet have  a slightly sticky grip type bottom, while two have a slip-type fabric to allow you to place them at the rear and slide your machine back towards the wall before placing the gripping isolation feet at the front.  This is to keep a washer or dryer from \"walking\" across the floor.\n\nIn my case, the feet of my freezer are larger than the 1 \" recessed top, so I had to make a wood shim to bridge the difference and keep it from crushing the outer raised lip.\n\nInstalling them with the \"sliding rear feet\" method went well and once in place the product seems to have nearly eliminated in the vibration through the floor.  The additional raised area now makes it possible to clean under the appliance and doesn't affect the ability to access or operate it.\n\nWorth the money??  Maybe, but for the price I would have expected a flawless product with no tweaking needed.  If I had known the design, I may have experimented with other methods first.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2421, "id": 359683, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 356, "len_tokens": 400, "text": "First let me start out by saying I was going to give this filter a 4 star rating until I received a email from the manufacturer asking me to rate the filter and if I was not satisfied with it and was not going to rate it 5 stars please contact them and let them know of the problem I had, well I did just that.\nI told them it took about 15 gallons to flush the new filter that it seemed to have what I called cooked \"Asian glass noodles\" in it at first, ugh.  After the long flushing they were gone.  To me this wasn't typical, maybe some dark discoloration from carbon was all I was use too.\nI received a email back and this is what I was told:\n\"Thank you for the order and I appreciate your feedback on the filter. Let me address the issue you experienced with the filter, as I have seen this before. Often times if a filter has not been changed for a long period of time, or if the tap water just happens to have a lot of contaminants, these white little strands will appear at first. The pieces are usually actually there and in the line when you take your previous filter off, and many shake loose with the change of filters, and these should not be happening from the new filter. Next time you change your filter you can see if you notice this by unscrewing and then re screwing the filter in place and pour some water.\"\nWell I hate to admit it but I didn't realize that it had been over a year since I had changed the filter, my bad, so this now makes sense to me and was happy with the explanation that I was given!\nI now happily give the Refresh Filter a 5 star rating as it works perfect and fit my GE refrigerator like a glove!  No leaks, no problems, so why spend almost twice as much for a filter when you can get a quality filter like the Refresh for less.\nI hope this review helps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2422, "id": 210182, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 423, "len_tokens": 486, "text": "My story is the same as that of others that have reviewed here. We saw water on the floor around our LG front-loading washer. We'd just washed a large comforter, and sometimes those things soak up a lot of water and get heavy and throw things off a bit so I figured it was just a temporary thing. But as water continued to leak I figured it was time to take a look inside the machine.\n\nGetting into the machine is pretty easy:\n- use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the screws from the washer's lid (two screws at the upper back)\n- slide the washer lid back a bit and then you'll be able to pull it up and off the washer\n\nVerify the water leak is coming from the valve. The valve should be wet. You might see water filling up at the hole at the top depending on how the valve broke. That's what was happening in my washer. Did a little searching and found this baby on Amazon for cheap.\n\nThe repair will take you all of 15 minutes, if that. Here's what I did (apologies for the mansplaining, but maybe it'll help the uninitiated):\n- unplug the washer from electricity\n- turn off the water to the machine\n- unscrew the hot water hose from faulty valve's connector at the back of the washer\n- use the Phillips screwdriver to unfasten the faulty valve's screws from the rear of the washer\n- pull the electric connector off the faulty valve\n- use pliers to open the interior hot water line clamp and slide it down the hose a bit away from the faulty valve\n- pull the hot water line off the faulty valve\n- the faulty valve should now be free of any connection to the washer and you can remove and dispose of it\n- reverse the steps to install the new valve (connect the interior water line and its hose clamp, affix the electric connector on the new valve, screw the new valve onto the back of the washer, put the washer lid back on, reconnect the exterior hot water hose, turn the water back on, plug the washer back in)\n\nYou can also probably find videos on valve replacement that will help.\n\nI have no idea what a plumber or appliance repair person would charge for this but if you can do it yourself it's a cheap and easy fix. I wish they were all this way! Thanks to LG and Amazon.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2423, "id": 102547, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 375, "len_tokens": 431, "text": "Ok, So I purchased the Danby Beverage Center during a Lightning deal on prime day. I figured $152 was a good price and could use some extra room in the refrigerator. I liked the look of the design and the way the blue Led lights illuminated the unit. I received the first unit damaged on the side corner. It was all dented in, packaging was good must of happened during it's time with UPS. Anyhow I called amazon and a new one was delivered three days later.\n\nFast Forward, three days later I open my second Danby, this one looks great! I had to adjust the door just a little bit to line it up better. Now I got it plugged in a running. Let it run for about an hour and put in around 35 cans and some water. Coldest it would get was 45.x degrees. I knew this wasn't cold enough for my beer and other beverages so I made the adjustment. I see everyone saying it doesn't get cold enough but the specs state it goes to 43 which I still wanted colder than that. I took off the four screws and adjusted the thermostat. I had to turn mine clockwise for some reason as turning it counter clockwise made it shoot up to 48 degrees as its coldest setting. I was able to get the unit to hit 32.5 on a digital refrigerator thermometer. It was still running at the time and I'm sure it would have gone even lower. I keep adjusting the screw and settled with three full clockwise turns from where the screw was originally.\n\nSo now the cooler kicks on around 42 degrees and cools to 36-38 which seems perfect to me. It doesn't have to run very long to get it colder and will stay off for a while before it has to kick on again. All in all i like the beverage cooler for the price I picked it up at. Was able to get it 8 - 10 degrees colder over the stock setting. It runs quiet and gets warm on the sides of unit but not hot to the touch. I think this is a great looking piece to my condo i'm remodeling.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2424, "id": 59876, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 382, "len_tokens": 454, "text": "I bought these dishwashers and had them set up on each side of my sink to have to keep from bending due to back problems.  THAT is the only benefit to these dishwashers.  I was doing an updated kitchen and though they would look sharp.  Well, that is the ONLY good thing I can say about them.\n\nCleaning my kitchen is now a nightmare as you can hardly fit anything in these.  The racks seem to be set up strangely as often the plates lie right against one another making it a common practice to have to rewash items.  I have taken to doing a rinse cycle for any dishes that I am not going to wash immediately.  Forget the normal cycle or the light cycle...they are worthless.  I have to wash everything on heavy duty or nothing comes clean.  Even then I often find soap residue on dishes and have to rewash them. And the cycles last forever...I think the heavy duty cycle must last about 3 hours.  Fortunately they are extremely quiet.\n\nUnlike some of the others reviews I have had no maintenance problems with these, except that every now and then you cannot get it function as far as selecting modes to wash on.  I have to open the drawer as many as 10 or 15 times to be able to get the lights to come on so you can choose a setting.  The service people can find nothing wrong with it, but I have noticed that keeping that part of the machine wiped down well seems to help.\n\nThese dishwashers have made my life a nightmare.  They are pretty, and they do keep you from bending over...with a bad back I thought they were the perfect solution...NOT\n\nThey cost a small fortune and the truth is the cheapest dishwashers on the market (I have one in my 2nd home) cleans better than these.\n\nRUN DO NOT WALK from anyone who tries to sell you this piece of junk.  Nearly $2000 out the window, and the way mine are configured on each side of the sink, with drawers below mean I cannot take them out a replace them with a decent dishwasher.\n\nI bought these about 5 years ago...and not a day goes by that I don't curse them.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2425, "id": 51528, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 418, "len_tokens": 476, "text": "This is a good product while is working. I purchased this dryer on November 2009 looking ahead for my future baby's clothes, I did not used this until Dec. 25th when my baby was born. It dried the clothes only when I selected the \"heavy\" cycle and took about an hour to finish, sometimes I had to repeat the process for blankets but regardless the long time it took to dry I would say I still was comfortable with the product (I could happily installed it in my bathroom), let's say I did another activities while it was working. Finally 2 months after starting using it about 4 to 6 times a week it broke down. I then tried to contact Amazon but they send me with the seller, the seller send me with the manufacturer, the manufacturer has a very bad web page, with few information for contacting customer support, I had to contact again the seller in order to get their telephone number. Once I could talk to hair America, they have a very bad customer service ( some of the representative do not know their own products) and they just transferred me every time with a different department and nobody solved my problem. Finally, I could talk to a representative who knew how to do his job and send me with \"Sears\" which is the company who gives the technical support to fix \"haier\" appliances. They also have a very bad service, they scheduled an appointment a week after I called, then the day they said, the technician never showed up, I called again and rescheduled an appointment for the next week, then the next week came and the technician opened up my dryer and turned out a \"belt\" was broken so he had to order the piece because is not a piece that is easy to find. They told us to wait until the piece arrived, and when it happened we would have to call them back so they could rescheduled again a visit to replace the piece. It happen that the piece did not arrive and we had to call again \"Sears\" and they told us that they had to backorder the piece and the process would take another two weeks. An now 3 months later I am still waiting for the piece with my dryer broken and my department full of clothes line for my baby's clothes. In general I could say is a very bad product and the customer service is worst.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2426, "id": 88243, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2427, "id": 144790, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 348, "len_tokens": 428, "text": "Update, Dec 2014: Someone just asked me if this machine locks when in operation. As i understand, newer machines are now required by law to lock. I'm not sure though, so phone the company if you need to know.\n\nI don't have this exact model, I have the sister one, awn412s. (My review is there, but I was referred to these reviews and noticed people talking about water levels. I agree with the favorable reviews here. Myself, I visited a friend who was using an expensive front loading machine and was appalled at how dirty the clothes coming OUT of the machine were. I decided then and there I would never buy one.)\n\nI love my machine, but found I couldn't put clothes all the way to the top without them coming out seriously twisted and wrinkled. I adjusted the water level using info from a repair web site. You have to unplug the machine of course, and remove the back of the top panel box. Takes one minute. You'll find a white Teflon-like disk; mine was about 3/4 inches in diameter and about 1/4 inch thick. It has a screw going through the center. THAT's the thing that sets the water level- turning that screw. It takes time to correlate the number of turns and the direction to turn it. Truthfully, it's been a while, so I forget the details, but I believe clockwise raised the level and I think maybe ! 2 to 4 turns was about right. I had marked the water level in the machine before I started. After turning the screw, I replaced the panel and turned the machine back on to see where the water got to. By trial and error, I was able to get it exactly where I wanted it, about 1  inch from the top. It's more than worth it!!! Takes maybe a half hour in all, but you'll find you can add twice as many clothes to the washer WITHOUT MANGLING THEM. I wonder if those ripped jeans were due to an over-crowded washer that had too little water.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2428, "id": 221352, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 376, "len_tokens": 444, "text": "This product works great!  I was skeptical about purchasing this item but the majority of the reviews were favorable.  Of course there were some negative comments about the product but this product is performing very well for me so far.  My dryer would not heat and my wife was on me to get it fixed or buy another one.  I checked all of the fuses and everything was fine except for the heating element.  I was hesitant about changing this element because a repairman just replaced the heating element about 4 months ago. It also took the repairman 2 weeks to replace  the heating element.  Get this, he said he didn't have the part and would have to order it. I have an American Whirlpool dryer the company should have plenty of those items in stock or at least a source to get the part in less than 24 hours.  This was my first time using the Home Warranty Service and I was kind of shocked that the company they sent to do the repair would take so long to actually repair the dryer.  I paid the Home Warranty charge of $100 and after doing some research it was evident that the cost for replacement part should be less than $50 at most places. So I felt hosed that I paid $100 and had to go to a laundromat to dry my clothes.  Now once again, my dryer would not heat.  I didn't want to wait another 2 weeks for the company to install something as simple as a heating element AND I didn't want to pay another $100.  So I ordered this item from Amazon Prime for less than $40.00 and it arrived in two days as promised!  When I pulled out the broken element and compared it to this new heating element, I could actually see the difference in the quality of the product.  The broken heating element was definitely a cheap version of the original heating element.  The original heating element lasted over 8 years and the replacement heating element that the repairman installed worked for about 4 months.  Hopefully this heating element purchased from Amazon will last a few years and not a few months.  So far so good.  Thank you Amazon!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2429, "id": 365743, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 354, "len_tokens": 433, "text": "Don't get me wrong, I love my washer. I love it enough to give it five stars for bringing out the 50's housewife in me, despite the fact that, when draining the water, it occasionally slows down to the speed of a urinating rodent.\n\nBut! Don't let that deter you! Because, if your washer stops draining, there's something you can do.\n\nFirst you'll want to remove the back panel. This'll be hard, and require a lot of sliding it up and down and wiggling it. Yes, getting it back on is going to be equally difficult. Best not to think about that. Set the two screws aside in a safe place and stare apprehensively into the tangle of wires and PVC. Make sure your hands are dry.\n\nNow, you see that blue thing in the picture, with my finger behind it? That cord runs all the way up to the middle knob, the one you twist to drain the water. If you give it a little pull, you'll be able to see the shadow of a valve opening inside the pipe. That's the thing that lets the water out. Make sure your drainage hose is pointing towards an actual drain, and that you have water in your machine, and that your knob is set to drain, and then yank that blue cord as high as it'll go. And watch as a clump of thread/lint/accidentally laundered kleenex comes flying out of the hose.\n\nNow you get to put the panel back on. You'll want to slide the middle clips under the plastic edge first, then push it up and down to get the top and bottom ones under. Yes, this part sucks. Yes, it's okay to cry. I'm fairly certain they didn't intend for the consumer to perform any maintenance on the machine.\n\nI love this machine. I love it enough to haul it down off the kitchen counter and start unscrewing bits of it experimentally when the internet can't tell me how to fix it. I love it enough to tell the internet how to fix it, so you can keep loving your machine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2430, "id": 484654, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 364, "len_tokens": 461, "text": "I needed a small fridge for a \"granny\" apartment, and I always try to buy Energy Star. In a rare fit of supporting the local independent mom-and-pop store, I bought one of these in July. It took them over a month to get one from Frigidaire.\n\nWhen first plugged in, it would run for maybe 15 minutes and then stop for at least that long. Took it over a day to get the fridge section down to 50F. With normal food inside, it won't go below 39F even on the very coldest setting. The off-to-on hysteresis is 10F, so at the coldest setting it cycles between 40F and 50F. The freezer will go to -18F if you turn its knob cold, but the refrigerator averages around 45F. If you take out all the liquids and heavy stuff, the fridge will freeze your lettuce to death before shutting off, while still waiting for about 50F to come back on.\n\nIt also makes a wide repertory of amazing noises, loud enough to be heard all over the house. Sometimes it is a \"boink-boink-boink\" sound from the compressor or the gas bubbling. Way louder than the normal soft boiling sound refrigeration sometimes makes. Other times it is a loud buzz from the air circulation fan - you can tell because it stops when you open the fridge door. And sometimes it is normally quiet, but totally unpredictable.\n\nThe local repair guy keeps replacing fans and sensors, and the behavior changes a bit each time, but there doesn't seem to be a real fix. I'd love to hear from anyone else who has one of these, working well or not! Frigidaire, if you're listening, I'm not very hopeful about hauling this back to the store on my dime and waiting another month to see if a replacement would be any better. I'm thinking serious design flaw...\n\n---\n\nAlmost to the end of the warranty, and no solution yet. Every relevant part has been replaced. Still have to choose, dairy or salad. I can't imagine how anyone signed off on this design! Plus it makes noises uncannily like someone unclicking your door lock in the middle of the night...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2431, "id": 87411, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2432, "id": 346426, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 363, "len_tokens": 488, "text": "The Wonder Washer seems only good for small articles of clothing such as undergarments and blouses. For $60 I was not expecting anymore than being able to occasionally wash a pair of jeans and T-shirts when I needed them. But the washer is built cheaply with a transparent plastic bucket that just sits on the motorized plastic base. The lid has drain holes but is not sturdy so you must be careful not to break it while draining a load of laundry. The two knobs on the base were difficult to turn. One knob lets you select either a regular cycle or a gentle cycle. The other knob is a timer which gives 3,5,9,12, and 15 minute wash cycles. Unfortunately, only the 6 or 9 minute selections worked, while setting the timer on any other time would cause it to jump down to 9 or 6 minutes. Once the timer reached the 3 minute mark the timer would jump to off, but the washer would continue to run when it should have turned off completely.\nThe washer looks like a large blender, but would work better if it was not curved like an hourglass and instead like a small cylinder. Also, if the bucket would snap onto the base then it would not have been so stressful when I had to keep it from tipping over, even though the water level was not passed the maximum limit line of 10 liters. I really wanted this washer to work, and would have made fixes for what I could fix, but the timer malfunction and the lid and hourglass shape were breaking points.\nI have returned the washer for a full refund, and have since bought a Panda 5.5 lb. washer for $100.<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Panda-Small-Mini-Portable-Compact-Washer-Washing-Machine-5-5lbs-Capacity/dp/B005GM942C/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Panda Small Mini Portable Compact Washer Washing Machine 5.5lbs Capacity</a>. I am very happy with it so far, and would recommend it over the Wonder Washer. Even if you only need occasional undergarments washed, I would suggest ignoring the Wonder Washer and looking elsewhere. I would honestly consider using a plunger washer with a 5 gallon bucket for about $30 if there was no other options.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2433, "id": 493822, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 358, "len_tokens": 426, "text": "This is the soap dispenser door/lid only, not the spring or white/blue plastic locking cam or any other parts or instructions on installation, FYI, so just be aware. You can 'You Tube' the installation video and it is very quick and easy. You do have to 'slightly' bend the plastic with a common screwdriver. This lid is dark gray and seems like it is built well; time will tell as the original lid had a small plastic projection in each corner to keep it in the track and one broke off about 5 years ago which made the lid come off often. The original soap dispenser has not worked since new so many times we just added soap to the first cycle. This lid seems much sturdier than the original. It is all plastic so may be adversly affected by heat and detergent over time. I will update as needed. Be also aware that there is a minimal 20% restocking fee and postage cost to return it so if you get it you might as well keep it as a spare. It is not uncommon for these things to go bad. I recommend this, would buy again, and I hope this helps someone.\n\nUpdate 9-27-14: I was not able to use this as my spring latch (white piece, not included) seemed to be damged so I ended up calling for service and replacing the whole dispenser, which has changed in design due to problems with venting, as well as the lower rubber door seal. I DO recommend Bosch Dishwashers and ours has been hastle free for 15+ years, otherwise. The lid is good to have on hand for a Bosch soap dispenser so I still recommend, BUT it does just sit in a drawer and I may not find it if and when I need it, which happens to a lot of things I have saved 'just in case'. You do not need to use the soap/spot remover dispenser, but it needs to stay in place to prevent leaks, place spot-remover gel on the seal to reseat it if you do need to remove the whole dispenser unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2434, "id": 52531, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 368, "len_tokens": 414, "text": "I searched for a couple of months looking for the right stove for our newly remodeled kitchen and we decided on the GE Cafe gas range.  This stove is the flagship appliance for GE's Cafe line and they did not hold anything back with it.  We have owned the stove for 3 weeks now and have used virtually every feature on it and it has passed with flying colors.\n\nThe materials of the stove are top notch.  I have read some reviews about melting and overheated knobs, but the ones that came on my April 2010 stove are metal with no overheating issues.\n\nThe griddle that comes with it is very cool, although you would not want to use it to cook anything that can splash like bacon as it is very messy.  Stick with pancakes.\n\nThe electronic control panel for the stove is very intuitive and user friendly.  Most people will be able to start using it right away without needing to read the manual as everything works the way you think it would.\n\nA couple of other features that are impressive is the meat probe that allows you to cook to internal temp on meats which works VERY well and the light for the over.  I know this sounds stupid, but you can see inside the stove very well without having to open the door.  This is very different from the GE Profile stove I replace.\n\nMy only frustration with the stove is you have to convert it to LP if natural gas is not available in your area and they make it such that you pretty much have to have the gas company do it.  That added another $100 to my costs but it was still worth it.  (It would be nice if appliance manufacturers made this easy enough so Joe Homeowner could do it, but on the other hand they probably don't want Joe Homeowner messing with gas!) The gas company will also adjust the burners to make sure they are properly regulated, which could resolve some issues other users were having.\n\nIf you are looking for a very functional stove that is sure to catch people's eye this is the stove for you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2435, "id": 101613, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 366, "len_tokens": 454, "text": "My husband had been wanting his own private beer fridge with a glass front and an internal light for a long time, and after doing a lot of research I decided to go with this particular fridge.  Mine came well packed, and without any dents or cosmetic damage from shipping (I ordered it here from amazon).\n\nIt really gets cold, and does a good chilling drinks.  If you set it to continuous, it can start to freeze your drinks.  I didn't realize this at first and I had a bottle of sparkling water explode into a slushy mess inside, but it was easy to clean up.  It has 8 settings, the dial has 1 through 7 and continuous, and I find that setting it to a 5 or 6 is good to keep drinks cold but not too cold.  The only downsides are  that when it rotates on and off, it can make a little bit of noise, but it's not very loud and I don't really notice it anymore, and the shelves are a little bit flimsy.  If you pack it full, the shelves start to bend and sag in the middle.\n\nOther than that though it does a good job storing different sizes.  The bottom can hold full sized champagne bottles, and the middle can store glass beer bottles, while the top can store cans.  It works perfect for us, since we like to stock all three types.\n\nOverall for the price, it does a good job.  We are definitely pleased.  My husband loves it!\n\n[edit] - The fridge died on 12/1/12, just 11 months after purchase.  It was making a loud snapping noise every few minutes but the compressor wouldn't turn on.  Since it was within warranty, the manufacturer sent a technician who replaced the part that starts the compressor.  He said these fridges are equipped with a super cheap part that will almost guaranteed break down, but it's an easy fix if you can get a repairman in the door.  Once he got the part from his car it took him less than 10 minutes to have it working again and out the door.  As of 5/1/13, it's still working fine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2436, "id": 41795, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 402, "len_tokens": 464, "text": "This unit replaces a Samsung microwave that failed because it's circuit board failed after two years; I swore I would go back to a range hood instead of another MW unit. I spent two months researching many models here, rejecting those with halogen lights (I find these too hot in general, let alone over my cooking range), and wanting something that vented out through the attic space as the MW did. I chose Air King because of the reviews here and elsewhere and took the chance. So far, after a week, I'm glad I did so.\n\nThe installation was quite straight forward, BUT there was no packet of screws anywhere (we looked in the box, every part of the fan, etc.). The contractor used screws he had and they worked but when we turned it on, the fan hit the side slightly; he needed to bend the fan unit and side a bit. It seems both these issues have been reported by others, so I'm hoping that their good experience with this unit will also be true for me.\n\nI cook a lot of aromatic dishes, and the real test of this unit was a curry. I had to put the fan on mid-high, which meant it was loud, louder than the MW fan on high but also more powerful. I could not smell curry cooking as I had with the MW. The unit sits higher than the MW too, which is probably why I needed to use a higher setting.\n\nWe used fluorescent blubs for lighting; bought the wrong kind so it doesn't vary with the two setting switch, but that's Okay as I rarely use a low setting. I really like how the light and fan are switches you turn on and off, and for the fan, rotate to the desired level, as opposed to push button settings to raise the power. With that, you'd have to cycle through if you wanted to change to a lower power or setting; with the switch, you just turn it. Nice and efficient.\n\nThe unit seems strong and not flimsy at all. It is a nice fit with the other stainless steel appliances, and I know how to clean SS properly as with the other appliances.\n\nSo in short, a good unit so far; it's been only a week, so I'll update this in a month, and if there are any issues.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2437, "id": 169241, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 343, "len_tokens": 404, "text": "I have a Maytag MTB2156BE refrigerator which recently stopped working. I decided to see if I could repair it. I plugged it in with the rear cardboard panel removed, and I heard the compressor start and run for a couple of seconds then quit. I could also hear  sizzling noise coming from the relay mounted on the compressor. A little smoke came from the area of the relay.\n\nWhen I looked online for a replacement relay, I figured I would replace the overload at the same time. However, the overload for my model is no longer available, so I came across a site the indicated this part would work and other sites that said it did not fit. Amazon indicated it would fit, so I gave it a try.\n\nWhen I received this new start device, I removed the original run capacitor from its mount to the left of the compressor by simply removing the screw holding it in place. I then plugged the run capacitor into the W10189190 start device, and it fit perfectly.\n\nThe one issue I encountered was the size of the connectors. The original connectors were .250\" (1/4 inch), and the connectors on the new start device were .110\"  I didn't want to make any wiring modifications in case I need to revert back to using the original style relay/overload. So, I made up two small wiring adapters. I used two short pieces of appropriate gauge stranded copper wire with a .250 insulated male connector on one end and a .110 female connector on the other end. I did need to use some electrical tape to cover the back side of the .250 male connector that was inserted into the insulated female connector. I also taped over the end of the orange wire connector that originally went to the run capacitor.\n\nThe refrigerator is running well now.\n\nAs an additional note, I ordered this from Amazon Warehouse deals, so my total cost to fix the refrigerator was around $25 which includes the W10189190, 1 day shipping, and the connectors.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2438, "id": 185325, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 353, "len_tokens": 419, "text": "I'm not a HVAC professional, but I am a scientifically-minded home owner. I've been curious as to how different actions affect the humidity in our pool room, among other things. I have no idea if this meter is correctly calibrated or not, and the manual doesn't talk about how to check this or calibrate it. However, I strongly suspect this is more accurate than anything I currently have. I mainly used the meter to check how an action changed the humidity or temperature in a room, which it appeared to do just fine.\n\n\"The meter displays three different temperature points of the air surrounding the meter's sensor: ambient, wet bulb, and dew point.\" The meter has buttons that allow you to hold, save, and/or recall data. It also has a MIN MAX AVG function. The directions are brief but I was able to use all these functions without a problem. The meter is powered by 4 AAA batteries. There is a power on/off button, but the meter will also automatically turn off after 20 minutes. There is a button to turn on and off a display backlight. The meter has a belt clip.\n\nThe display was large enough to read easily. It quickly arrived at the reading (about 3-5 seconds to stabilize unless in an area of air movement). The meter is for indoor use only. The manual warns \"To extend sensor life, keep the sensor's protective shutter closed whenever the meter is not in use.\" There are no further directions about this shutter, but I can't find one despite the picture. It's possible I'm overlooking the obvious, but perhaps the obvious is that there isn't one.\n\nI'd recommend reading the reviews by professionals. From the description I read to decide to review this or not, I'd assumed it was around $75 and \"of professional quality\" rather than an actual professional meter. I'd normally have left this to in-that-profession reviewers as I have no way to compare this to similar meters on the market nor can I comment on if the pricing is reasonable. I apologize for that lack in my review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2439, "id": 497454, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 363, "len_tokens": 427, "text": "The LDG3037ST is an update of the range I bought this Spring so I can't really review it, but the only difference between this range and mine is the buttons are slightly different.  However, I believe enough is similar I can make a qualified review.\n\nMy subjective point view says this is one of the best looking ranges out there for under $2,000, by far.  On the objective side I've had my range for about 6 months now and it has worked perfectly.  The burners put out a lot of heat.  In fact, it is so much better than my last range I have to watch my arm when reaching for a pot on the back burner because the super burner will singe you arm hair when on high.\n\nBy favorite part of the stove is the fifth burner and the griddle.  I told myself I didn't need a fifth burner and it wouldn't be worth the extra money because I never use more than four.  Then I saw it came with a griddle and thought that is perfect.  I make pancakes on the griddle all the time.  I love it.\n\nThe double oven is nice.  I used to use a toaster oven because I didn't want to bother heating a whole oven to cook something like fish sticks.  Now I use the top oven for stuff like that.  The bottom oven is great for baking or roasting.\n\nThe only downside about this unit is probably the same for any double oven.  The rack in the top oven is against the bottom of the oven so the bottom of a pan gets a lot of heat.  If you move the rack up one notch nothing really fits.  You also have to bend over more than you are use to to get items out of the bottom oven, but I seen no way around this.\n\nI saw a couple reviews complain about the knobs being plastic.  Well, they are plastic, but they look nice and so far they have been durable.  I really like the shape of them because they look like knobs on a higher end range.\n\nNo regrets at this point.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2440, "id": 88475, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2441, "id": 62738, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 360, "len_tokens": 423, "text": "My $1400 Kitchen Aid range came with plastic knobs wrapped in a foil laminate which lasted about 30 days and then wrinkled and separated from the plastic, just from the heat of the oven. Indicates a fundamental design problems with Kitchen Aid products, I thought.\n\nSo, I called Sears warranty and parts department and was promised steel knobs and instead received more plastic knobs which also delaminated in about 30 days. Next, I went to the Sears store and talked with the salesman who gave me a part number and said my problems would be solved if I called Sears parts again. Instead, I was coldly told my warranty was up.  When I explained that my warranty wasn't fulfilled by the shipment of bad replacement knobs I was told: too bad.  I then wound up with only one option, buying a set of five steel knobs for $140. Only problem was the part number was wrong and Sears sold me the wrong parts.  Indicates fundamental fulfillment problems common with Sears these days, don't you think?\n\nThe knobs Sears shipped were for another range. You won't believe what happened next. When my wife installed the knobs onto the range as aligned by the parts themselves, they were upside down in position beyond the electric igniter, freely releasing natural gas into the kitchen.  I was home, and watched as it took her an uncomfortable amount of time to determine that she needed to turn the knob upside down to turn it off.  Close call.\n\nI lament the whole experience because we are worse off as consumers if we lose a retailing giant like Sears.  But we are worse off still, if we are subjected to bad business practices while a retail giant slowly slips out of existence.\n\nFor Kitchen Aid, obviously, they sacrifice product quality in order to fit with retail price-points at the expense of the consumer. I can only imagine where Kitchen Aid products are made, and why the cheap plastic parts. We are now shopping for a new range, 2 years four months after buying Kitchen Aid's $1400 gas range. Thanks a lot, Sears and Kitchen Aid, and goodbye.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2442, "id": 304106, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 232, "len_tokens": 456, "text": "What you may not know is that LG made quite a few clothes dryers for GE.\nGE is notorious for 'gouging' for parts.  They change the part number of this wheel and charge from $31 ~ $38 each roller, often without the shaft included.\nI did some research and found that these wheels/rollers (whether genuine oem, 'approved oem', or just plain generic (I think all from Korea) will fit the following dryer model #ers:\nDPGT650EH0MG,DPGT650EH0WW,DPGT650GH0MG,DPGT650GH0WW,DPGT750EC0PL,DPGT750EC0WW,DPGT750EC1PL,DPGT750EC1WW,DPGT750EC2PL,DPGT750EC2WW,DPGT750GC0PL,DPGT750GC0WW,DPGT750GC1PL,DPGT750GC1WW,DPGT750GC2PL,DPGT750GC2WW,PTDN800EM0WW,PTDN800GM0WW,PTDN805EM0MS,PTDN805GM0MS,PTDN850GM0WW,PTDS850EM0WW,PTDS850GM0WW,PTDS855EM0MS.\n\nThey've also been updated by this number that has a decidedly more narrow rubber edge:\nLG Dryer Roller Assembly DE2002A  - REPLACES 4581EL2002C 4581EL2002A 4581EL2002B\n\nFour stars for now until some time is put on them.  You don't have to always buy 4 but however many you are replacing you should get a new shaft included (these come with the new shaft - you reuse the old nut and washers).\n\nThere seems to be a very, very light oil on the shaft.  People refer to these erroneously as having bearings (lol) it's just a shaft and a 'bushing' spins on it.  I don't believe you should add lubricant to them, just install as they are. (unsticking an old frozen shaft & bushing with some spray teflon dry film is a different story though)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2443, "id": 388580, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 375, "len_tokens": 426, "text": "We don't have a water line installed to hook up to our refrigerator so if we wanted ice we either filled ice trays or we bought bagged ice at the store. During the hot summer months the ice would already be melting by the time you got the bag out to the car, then after you got the bag of ice home and put it into the freezer it would refreeze into one big block of ice.\n\nHaving a portable ice maker is great! No more buying bagged ice or filling trays. This machine is small enough to set on the counter or even go with you in the RV.  In about 6 minutes you'll have a scoop of ice to drop into your glass. All you do is pour water to the fill line and press the button on the front to choose the cube size and you're good to go.\n\nI dump the filled ice bin into containers in our freezer until they are filled then just let the machine stay on so I can grab ice during the day as needed. If you want a harder ice for the blender make sure you store it in your freezer. The ice I store in the freezer gets used for smoothies, adding to our ice shaver,  and  for margaritas while the ice straight from the machine is great for ice water, soda, tea, and chomping!.\n\nWe have hard water so I use bottled water to keep the machine from gunking up, and for a better tasting ice without those icky ice cube floating things. There are 3 cube sizes you can choose, medium is the default size. If you leave the ice in the machine it will slowly melt back into the bin,  the water will constantly recycle itself and continue to make ice until either the bin is full or you turn off the power.\n\n  The front control panel looks nice and is very easy to navigate. There is a small plug  for draining the water out for easy rinsing and cleaning.  This is a really nice ice machine, with ice tea season right around the corner a portable ice maker will come in handy.\n\nFree product sample received for review purposes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2444, "id": 396471, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 348, "len_tokens": 422, "text": "***Update July 12, 2017 (see BELOW original review***\nI let this sit in the upright position for a couple days before cleaning it and turning it on. Bingo! Just like clockwork, I filled the tank with water and whamo, it started dropping ice cubes into the tub on top of the reservoir - wooohooooo! I don't have to walk this body clear across the house to the kitchen freezer which barely makes any ice cubes or they jam up on the way out then spill all over the floor. This one is in our bedroom on a counter and color me happy! As you can see, the cubes are not clear but I don't care. I have a PUR filter water pitcher next to it, so after this water runs down I'll try to fill it with the filtered water and see if they come out clear. I was just too excited to think of doing that lol. I have severe chronic fatigue, like severe, so walking across the house just wears me plum out as well as out of breath. Plus I have agonizing pain from a bad back. Living in Hawai'i is hot year round and now, ooo la la! I have ice. Now let's hope this baby doesn't break down so I don't have to add an update to this review  Did you color me happy? Make it pink with glitter cause that's what having ice close by makes me feel like.\n***Update July 12, 2017*** It's broken. .Sigh. I wish this had not been too good to be true, but I think it is. I ALMOST got NINE months of ice cubes from this unit. Now I will begin the process of contacting the company to see what is covered, what isn't and how much this is going to cost me. I am no longer happy and covered in pink glitter. ***Update July 20, 2017 Company's customer service is fabulous. Easy to work with and made everything all better. If you have any problems, be sure to ask for help directly from the company***", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2445, "id": 188293, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 336, "len_tokens": 422, "text": "We bought this dishwasher to replace an aging Kitchenaid (that one lasted over 20 years).  Our old dishwasher quit suddenly just before Thanksgiving and I scrambled to find a dishwasher I could pick up and install that day.  I soon discovered that stores don't stock many dishwashers.  This model was in stock at our local Bestbuy store for right at $300, we like our other Whirlpool products, so I went with it.\n\n  Likes:  the tall tub, energy star rating, it is very quiet, and it has done an excellent job of cleaning the dishes.  We use the \"normal\" cycle, not the quick wash.  I am ashamed to say that our dishes were noticeably cleaner and the glassware clearer after being run in this washer, apparently our old one wasn't doing a good job anymore.  I like the controls and the options, it is easy to use.\n\nDislikes: predominately the silverware basket hanging on the door.  I haven't read the instructions yet, so I'm glad another reviewer remarked that there are other options mentioned, I'll check that out.  The tub is plastic, but I'm not sure that is a big disadvantage, and I wouldn't expect stainless at this price point.  Non adjustable racks- we don't miss the height adjustment of our old upper rack, but we have had trouble loading the dishes as efficiently as before.  That may be a matter of time to discover the best way to use it.\n\nBasically I am very happy with the way it looks and the way it works, and for this price I think we did very well.  Over $500 like some reviewers mentioned?  That seems a bit much for this dishwasher.  We had a Bosch in another house that we paid around $550 for and the build quality and features were much better than this.  Even now I see this model on sale for about $360 at Bestbuys.  If you can find it under $400 okay, not a bad dishwasher- get one, if you can't- keep looking.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2446, "id": 219961, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 375, "len_tokens": 469, "text": "Given that buying the official Kenmore replacement wick in a store can cost $25 and the Kenmore branded wicks can cost $17 on the net, I just had to give these a try.  Comparing to the Kenmore branded wick, this one produces the same water use rate for the humidifier given the same conditions and you can get four of them for the price of buying one Kenmore branded wick in a store.  I can't see any significant quality difference, comparing a new Kenmore branded wick to this one.  Humidifier wicks calcify more quickly than you might want, this is due to the hardness of the water that you fill the humidifier with.  The harder your water the shorter the life of the wick.  If you want the wick to last longer, you can install a reverse osmosis unit to get softer water to fill your humidifier with.  It is a tradeoff between the cost of the wicks and the cost of the reverse osmosis unit.  If you are paying for the Kenmore branded filters a reverse osmosis unit could make good sense.  The filter fits nicely in the humidifier and I am happy with it.  The humidifier has no way of knowing the condition of the filter, it uses a timer that is supposed to reset if you unplug the humidifier.  The best way to judge when to replace the filter is to just look at it with a flashlight through the plastic grill.  The calcification has a color that is easily seen and works its way down the wick from the top.  The calcification hampers the wicking of water, so once it works its way down the wick the performance of the humidifier tapers off and you need to replace the wick.  I bought four of these to spread the shipping cost over more than one filter.  The filters are individually wrapped in plastic and four fit in the shipping box nicely without being crushed.  Using a bacteriostatic treatment that is designed for wick type humidifiers will keep undesired biology from growing in your humidifier and it is a good idea to put some in once in a while.  I will certainly be buying more wicks from this source when the time comes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2447, "id": 281904, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 407, "len_tokens": 474, "text": "Purchased in February and it was great. However, in July something broke and it will no longer switch between crushed and cubed ice. Since this was not a big deal I procrastinated and didn't contact Samsung support. That has now become a three week nightmare. Still have not had a service person scheduled to even come out and determine what is wrong. Samsung customer support is probably the worst support I have ever dealt with. They originally assigned the ticket to one local company that I was never able to get in contact with. Then a week ago Samsung called me, I explained the situation and was told they would assign to another company. Called Samsung yesterday as I still have not heard from anyone and the ticket was never transferred. The person with \"Executive Customer Relations\" told me she transferred the ticket, called the Authorized Service Center herself, and that I would be contacted within 24 hours to schedule the service call. Plus she would call me back to follow-up. Well, here it is over 72 hours later and zero calls.\n\nI just want people to be aware of what they may be getting into.\n\nFollow-up: Well, after all the issues getting someone to look at the refrigerator, I finally had a service technician out to look at it on Nov 26th.  Turns out that the \"ice box\" which houses the motor for the auger and the mechanism that opens the door for cubed ice had ice built up inside of it.  No indication of this on the outside of the assembly.  The ice build up was preventing the solenoid from being able to work correctly to open the door, and caused the solenoid to burn out.  The technician at first thought that the heater inside the assembly that is to prevent the ice build up was not working. After testing he determined that the electrical connection was probably not properly connected at the factory which prevented the heater from working.  He ordered a new assembly unit and on Dec 4th it was installed.  Ice maker has been working properly since.  Of course I have no way of verifying if the heater is working or not, just hoping that it is.\n\nAnd, although Samsung told me they would follow-up, I have heard nothing from them since the repair.  Just another example of poor customer service from them and the lack of quality control at their factories.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2448, "id": 536417, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 335, "len_tokens": 412, "text": "I have a vintage double General Electric oven that is original to my 1966 home. The oven still had an original element made in the USA by G.E. that finally melted/broke in one corner and needed replacement. Years ago I had borrowed it from the lower oven as a replacement for the top oven and haven't had a lower operating oven in years. So, I took the model number off the worn-out original heating element and found the correct replacement on-line. I had ordered a replacement from another Amazon seller (different brand) but after 5 days of waiting it still had not shipped. So I cancelled that order and chose 2 replacement elements from THINK FAST to put both upper/lower ovens back into like-new service. THINK FAST shipped the order quickly (I chose free shipping for my order over $35).\n\nWhile the oven was out-of-commission, I took the time to give the ovens a thorough cleaning from top to bottom with EASY OFF oven cleaner and rinsed off the chemical several times and waited delivery of the replacements.\n\nThe elements arrived quickly (5 days) and in great shape. Each was heavily wrapped several times in small bubble wrap. Installation was a breeze with 4 screws (2 to connect the wire leads to the oven's flexible wire leads, and 2 to attach the rectangular mounting bracket to the oven's interior wall). I used the old screws since they were hex head and are easier to put in with the appropriate hex screw driver. (BTW, the element came with 2 Phillips head screws which I did not use.)\n\nAfter installation the ovens fired up perfectly. I am very happy with the product. The Exact Replacements heated efficiently like the original element. These old G.E. ovens are built like a tank. Rather than spend $2,000-3,000 for a top-of-the-line new fancy-state-of-the-art double oven, I spent less than $40 for TWO elements to keep my vintage oven working perfectly for many more years. I'm smiling today! ", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2449, "id": 362990, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 405, "len_tokens": 471, "text": "FIRST REVISION\n\nI have had the unit for a few weeks and went through our first power outage which revealed an major flaw: POWER OUTAGES REQUIRE MANUAL INTERVENTION.\n\nI have now had the device for a few weeks and went through our first power outage. When the power came back on the unit came up with the right hand blue light flashing. The only cure is to power the unit off, press the reset button on the bottom (I held it for a few seconds seconds), and then re-apply the power. We want the unit to monitor our home while we travel over the winter. I am going to put it on a UPS system and hope that the unit will stay powered up.\n\na) SETUP:\n  1: you have to enable at least one sensor to get the hub recognized by the web application. Literally spent hours waiting for the lights to stop blinking. After searching on the web a user stated that the you had to install batteries in a sensor before the web site application will recognize your hub. The installation sheet does not tell you that. It said that the lights would stop blinking and then you could complete the setup. After six hours of a blinking light, I installed batteries in one sensor and seconds later the lights on the hub went solid and the web application allowed me to setup the system and add the other two sensors.\n  2: sensors have to be upright or range is significantly reduced. When I was trouble shooting a bad sensor (see below) I set the second sensor horizontal and got no connectivity.\nb) SENSORS:\n  1: as other users have stated, the sensors are not very well calibrated. This is not a fifty cent sensor, they should read +/- 1 degree IMO.\n  2: one sensor that read 70 degrees inside went to -40 degrees when I put it outside when it was appox 50 degrees. brought sensor back inside and  it returned to 70 degrees. I will test it again tonight. If it is bad I will have to find out if the vendor will want to send a replacement sensor or if I have to return the whole unit.\n\nAssuming that I get a good sensor I would recommend this unit since it seems to work, I can add sensors and can even buy a range extender so I can monitor my barn.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2450, "id": 484973, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 342, "len_tokens": 436, "text": "We had this refrigerator delivered on 6/9/15.  Within the first 10 days, the freezer got so warm it defrosted the ice and food. We called Whirlpool customer service and they sent out a technician a week later. The technician said he couldn't find anything wrong and we should make sure the door was shut and the freezer kept full.  He also advised to get a surge protector made for appliances.  Everything done as recommended.  A couple of days later freezer temperature soared, we purchased a temperature probe and temperature in freezer would go above freezing and remain there long enough to melt ice and food.  We called Whirlpool customer service. The Technician came out. He called Whirlpool and on Technical Support's recommendation, he ordered a thermister, main controller board and wiring harness.  He replaced the items replaced 2 weeks later when the parts came in.  A couple of days later, freezer temperature rose long enough to defrost ice and food. Called Whirlpool again, they said they would need to send a technician out again. They said they had no record of the technician calling customer service, when in fact he called from our home in front of my husband.  A week later, the same technician came out.  He said he did everything he could.  He called Whirlpool Technical Support and this time was told to order a customer interface board.  A week later the part came in and the technician came out to install it.  He said if this didn't work, there was nothing more he could do.  A day later, temperature rose again, defrosted the ice and food.  We called Whirlpool customer service again and demanded a replacement.  We were told yet again, that they needed to send a technician out.  We will be waiting another week just for the technician to say nothing else can be done.  Do not buy this refrigerator or a Whirlpool appliance.  Their customer service is the worst!  We have had this appliance for almost 3 months and cannot rely on the freezer.  Cash outlay $1598.00", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2451, "id": 314290, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 353, "len_tokens": 447, "text": "We had a load of desperately-needed socks half washed when the tub stopped spinning in our 20-year old Kenmore Series 90 washing machine.  It's never given a bit of trouble or even been moved in the past 20 years, as the clutter of lint, boxes and debris around its base would attest to.  Grinding sounds would emanate from below whenever the cycle was recommenced.  We discussed immediate plans to use the laundromat, take our dirty linens to a relative/neighbors house or the dreaded purchase of a new machine!  Fortunately, being an avid tinkerer, I did a little research on-line and thought this repair was a fair bet, would be easily accomplished albeit messy.\n\nIn a few days the $6 part arrived and I found the repair was actually easier than described on numerous Youtube videos.  I didn't even have to remove the water or load of old socks that had been soaking for a few days.  All I did was tip the machine to the left (as looking from the front) enough to gain access underneath.  And messy?  Not at all.  The underside is pretty sparse of components: only a hose, the pump/motor combination and the transmission...that's it!  I could see easily that the connector was obviously broken by trying to shift it with a screwdriver.  All I removed were two screws and the retaining straps they held in place.  This allows the motor/pump to be pulled away and dropped to remove the offending pieces and install the new ones.  Put the motor back in place while aligning the coupler pieces, re-secure the straps and you're done.  It would have taken only 20 minutes if I hadn't babied everything out of concern.  I set the washer down, restarted the cycle and my socks were done as if uninterrupted by a week's wait.  The washer even seemed quieter than before, leading me to believe it had slowly been dying for some time.\n\nIf your washing machine is broken, don't even inspect it!  Just order this part and try it.  If it fixes it, great! if not, the cost in time and money is minimal.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2452, "id": 87371, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2453, "id": 88411, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2454, "id": 218746, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 367, "len_tokens": 438, "text": "For seltzer lovers, the added feature on this fridge is awesome. I love not having cans of seltzer around the house and having to bring them back. We just received the fridge so I'm not sure how well the SodaSteam will hold up but hopefully if we take care of it, there shouldn't be any problems. The fridge has plenty of storage space. The snack drawer is great for things like deli meats or snacks for my toddler. The freezer space is a bit small but should serve its purpose for a family of three.\n\nI highly recommend purchasing this through a local retailer. My sister warned against purchasing something like this online, but I love Amazon and rarely have any problems. The seller that we purchased this through was HcCost. We ordered this in early Feb, with a delivery date of Feb 18 - 21st. After many attempts to coordinate delivery, with my husband taking time off from work to wait for delivery, it never happened. While customer service at HcCost was quick to get back to us, they did not know themselves where the fridge was once it was on route. The typical response was, \"give it another 24 hours.\" It was a very frustrating process as we were charged full price, paid off the credit card only to not have the final product. That being said, I still love Amazon. They worked fast at getting us a refund but I definitely won't be buying large applicances online. We went to Best Buy--the price was only $50 more and we got the fridge right away with free delivery and set up. They even helped us move our old fridge into the garage.\n\nUpdate 2/6: We have this fridge for almost a yr and it still works great! The SodaStream suddenly stopped working but after contacting SamSung, we found out SodaStream started making their cartridge different so they sent us a valve (?) to fix the problem. It works great now. My only complaint is that the fridge only makes 2 liters of seltzer at a time then it needs to refill which takes about 10 mins. If you have a party, fill up first and refrigerate.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2455, "id": 175418, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 490, "text": "Works perfect as a replacement to a similar looking stove switch on my smooth top stove. I didn't need one of the connections. Basically if your current switch has H1, H2, L1, L2, P, connections and the wattage reads 2100-2600w or 8.9-11.0A (amps) then this is the one for you. I had the large burner and there was a LOW connection (L1 I think) that I did not need to hook to. I suspect you may be able to use the same switch for a small burner and would likely not use one the of the HIGH connections. BUT if you have the large burner DON'T buy one that says 1250-1560W (watts) or 4.4-7.4A (amps). That is lower power than you will need. When hooking up the new one don't worry about the wire color, order or location since they vary in front vs. rear burner and brand to brand. Just copy the wire locations of your old switch to the new one: H1 to H1, L1 to L1, P to P, etc.. the spade locations and look of the switch were a bit different from stock but it works perfect and temperature is the same as the other large burner I measured with my digital thermometer. It is also possible the screw threads that hold it to the metal panel could also vary from what you have and it does not come with screws, I don't think any others do either. I lost my original switch screws anyway and I have a large screw jar so this was no biggie for me. If you need to replace the screws just use ones barely long enough to grab the front of the switch and not go deep in or you may ruin the switch or touch a contact. I hope this helps someone. I was overly worried about wire colors and switch shape, etc. It's ALL about wattage, connections (H1, L1) and the shaft that your knob slides onto. Match those and your good. FORGET brand loyalty. Frigidaire, Kenmore, Hotpoint, GE, Whirlpool, Amana, Electrolux, etc are all in bed together. Chances are your $2,000 GE 6 burner Profile stove has the same switch as the $449 Whirlpool apartment grade one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2456, "id": 468705, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 393, "len_tokens": 462, "text": "We made the mistake of purchasing matching Samsung appliances after obtaining a great Samsung refrigerator. We have a few minor issues with some of their other appliances, however this dishwasher was by far the most disappointing appliance purchase of any kind that we have ever made. We purchased this dishwasher from Lowe's and did a self-install in June of 2013. Everything worked perfectly. The only qualms we had with the design was the buttons were hard to access under our countertop (we chocked it up to the self install) and the fact that we couldn't tell if a button had registered as being pressed or not. There is a very low volumed beep that sounds when pressed, which isn't very helpful in a noisy kitchen/house.\nThe real trouble started this past May 2014, when the dishwasher started but no water sprayed in the machine through the cycle. We called customer service since it was still under warranty and they came out to fix it. When the technician finally got here and I told him it was a self-install he smirked and started looking at our plumbing under the sink. After a quick review, he decided we didn't screw it up. He ended up replacing the circuit board on the system, and voila! We have a working dishwasher again. As a family of two, we put very little pressure on this machine and even followed \"extra\" directions the service tech gave us like wiping the grime under a poorly designed seal on the bottom of the door and avoiding the acidic \"lemon\" detergents. Well, this past weekend (September 2014) our dishwasher broke down again with the same problem. We called tech support who informed us that our drain was probably clogged. (Seriously???) After several attempts to explain that the appliance was not spraying any water, she finally got the point and informed us our warranty ran out and there was nothing she could do. This is a clear design/quality flaw with the circuit board in the appliance or some other electrical issue that causes the circuit board to short. Based on this product alone and the poor customer service, I will not be buying another kitchen Samsung appliance again.\n\nThe sad thing is, this is the 3rd online review I have written on this product since being placed on hold with the service center.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2457, "id": 87155, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2458, "id": 112235, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 340, "len_tokens": 411, "text": "First, DON'T BUY SAMSUNG PRODUCTS, PERIOD!! We upgraded our Kitchen in 2011 and decided to buy all new kitchen appliances, Electric stove, Dishwasher, and Refrigerator. We shopped around and every salesman we spoke to kept telling us that Samsung was the Best. So, we finally bought from Sears and got them to through in an extended 3 year protection plan in the deal. Little did we know how much we would need it. All were top of the line Stainless Steel and Black appliances. The stove was retured and replaced with a new stove in the first two weeks because the ceramic top scratched when we tried to clean it per the owners manual. We had a Whirlpool ceramic top stove before and never had this issue after 15 years of use. The new stove still scratch a little but not as bad as the first. The refrigerator had the dooor gasket fail and the ice maker door control fail. The dishwasher never worked well. Didn't clean well, the cycle was too long, and food would get stuck between the door and the lower basket. We were told that the racks wouldn't rust but they did. We had them replaced under the protection paln. Then the protection plan ended in April of 2014. the Dishwasher started leaking. It was clear tha the spot welds had broken on the gasket holding frame.  I called Samsung and tried to tell them it couldn't be fixed, but they insisted I call a service Tech and they recommended one. Long story short, it couldn't be fixed I had to pay $95 for the service call, Samsung would not reimburse me, they did agree to buy back the dishwasher for a depreciated value of ~ $256. the dishwasher cost me $509 and that was a sale price. They also paid me for the damage to my hardwood floor that was caused by the leaking dishwasher. Samsung was dificult to deal with through the entir process. I would never buy another Samsung product, NONE, not Ever!!!!!!!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2459, "id": 53628, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 386, "len_tokens": 465, "text": "Washer is great!\n\nWe got ours in April 2009, so we have had it over six months now.\n- Water bill has been cut by approximately 1/3 ($720 down to $480 per year).\n- Water savings alone mean it will pay for itself in less than four years.\n- Machine uses about half the amount of laundry detergent per load than our old machine.\n- Capacity is enormous.  We do about half the loads we used to.  You will be surprised how much you can fit in one load.\n- I'm sure the hot water bill is less also, but I can't quantify those savings since we got a new furnace around the same time.\n- Clothes take much less time to dry because they are so much drier when they come out of the washer.\n- Quiet.  Quality machine, no problems.\n\nThe new high-efficiency washers are very different from your old top loader.  Most of the complaints that you will read about are caused by improper installation or use.\n- The washer *must* be adjusted to be level in order to work properly. The clothes will not be spun properly if it's not level.\n- Don't use too much soap - if you do, you will have electrical and other problems\n- You *must* use high efficiency laundry detergent\n- If you leave the door closed all the time, you will get mold.  You have to leave the door ajar when not in use.\n- The wash cycle does take longer than a traditional top loader, but you make up for it in the dry cycle.\n- It will look like there is almost no water in the machine when it is running.  It is designed to work this way.  The clothes do get clean!\n\nIt's true that the clothes are often twisted when you pull them out.  I give each item a quick shake to straighten them out, then toss them in the dryer.\n\nUnless your dryer is broken, don't bother getting a new one.  You won't need it.\n\nThe only negative: you can't do small, heavy loads very well.  When I need to wash the bath rug, I have to wash it with other items (like old towels) or the washer won't run properly (because of how it needs to spin).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2460, "id": 67079, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 389, "len_tokens": 452, "text": "I've only had this unit for a day, and I like it so far, but I have one issue with it (which I was wondering if anyone else who purchased this has this issue).  When first powered on (and every time the unit stops and restarts), there is a loud noise coming from the back of the unit, like possibly the sound of water boiling, but much louder, and then it stops after a minute and doesn't happen again unless the unit quits making ice and then restarts.  Has anyone else had this issue? I wasn't sure if a replacement unit was going to be any different.\n\nTo answer questions from other users...\n\nThe water is filled from the front of the unit.  You must open the lid and remove the ice tray to fill the unit with water.  The ice tray rests above the water.  As the ice on the bottom of the tray slowly melts, there are openings in the ice tray to allow it to be reused to make more ice.\n\nI wasn't sure how the ice maker was going to work after the unit makes a full container of ice (in my case, it takes about 3 hours to make a full tray of ice before it gives me the 'full' light).  When the light is illuminated, the ice machine shuts completely off, with nothing to keep the ice cool.  It's my guess that it acts somewhat like a thermos to keep the ice from melting very fast, because the unit is shut off at this point.  However, if it's full and you leave it on all night without it making ice, the ice will melt enough for the unit to start again to make more.  If you take the ice tray out, it's going to drip water from the ice on the bottom of the bin, so be careful if you don't want it to drip on anything.\n\nI have not had this ice maker long enough to tell you how long it would last, but so far, I am happy with the purchase.  I did dock it one star though due to the loud noise that happens when the unit first turns on (the box DID say the unit was quiet, right?)  It is quiet, but only after the first minute.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2461, "id": 223603, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 362, "len_tokens": 458, "text": "Our Amana AGS760WW range (from the early 80s) starting becoming slow to light and eventually just reeked of unlit gas.  Some online research revealed that the igniter heats up by was of resistance and the flow of current then triggers the gas valve to open.  A complete, but poorly performing ingniter would display my symptoms, so I sought out the right part.\n\nWhen shopping on some appliance part website, my handy Amazon Google Chrome plug in displayed a message saying that Amazon had it, and sure enough they did (and at 40% of the price) and it was available with Prime shipping!  I never knew to look at Amazon.  The first igniter arrived on a sub zero day, well packed but was broke.  Having read other reviews I understood these to be highly brittle, and sure enough it was.  As noted it was very well packed, but the conditions were less than ideal.  A prompt replacement was dispatched, and it arrived intact.\n\nI skooted the oven out, unplugged the power (left the gas line connected), and removed the door and racks.  The metal guard that shrouds the ignited was held in place by three easy to remove sheet metal screws, and the I pulled the old igniter out.  At first glance, it seems much bigger than what's in my oven, but much get's hidden behind the back wall.  It's an identical part.  I fished the wire nuts out via the smallish hole to unscrew the old unit.  I replaced the plastic ones with new ceramic wire nuts (rate for high temps, but the old ones should work).  Note these were not included with the replacement part, but likely weren't needed. Then I put everything back into place.  The hardest part was removing the metal guard from the old igniter and installing on the new one, especially while being fearful of it's brittle nature.  All in all, it took 20 minutes, including putting the door back on (which can be tricky).\n\nEverything worked great, and the oven heats much faster than I've ever seen.  It must have been going bad these last few years.  I'm so glad I fixed this myself.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2462, "id": 339948, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 341, "len_tokens": 402, "text": "Years ago, we bought a home that came with a 30-year-old Kitchenaid dishwasher. The rest of the kitchen had been remodeled but the old Kitchenaid remained. We used that thing for another 5 years before we did a complete remodel of the kitchen, and purchased a new Kitchenaid dishwasher, thinking these machines were the best of the best and would last another 30 years. Boy, were we wrong! Despite purchasing the best Kitchenaid option at the home store, the new Kitchenaid machines are simply not built to last. In the 7 years we have owned this machine, we've had to have it serviced at least twice, and have had to replace different parts on the upper rack and the silverware basket. Each time, the replacement products have been more plastic and more headache.\n\nThis metal replacement part set really is much better quality than the parts that came with my Kitchenaid as well as the parts I've purchased to replace the same issue. I am now much more optimistic that this dishwasher will not need any replacement parts for years to come.\n\nA perk, too, is that you get parts to replace both sides of the upper rack hardware, and the cost is the same as the old plastic parts which only replaced one side.\n\nThis was very easy to install. There's a great video on YouTube (in your search engine, type the product number with the word 'installation' and the video pops right up) and this makes installation a breeze. The only complaint I have is in regards to the odd screw system included in the set. I don't know the name of the part, but it's like a screw that fits into the top of another screw (think piggyback style), and then you use a screwdriver on that in order to tighten the part. I don't know why it is done this way-- it really isn't user-friendly and it would seem that a simpler option would be available-- but it works and the product is still simple to install.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2463, "id": 522830, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 394, "len_tokens": 449, "text": "This small coupling made the absolute easiest fix of an appliance ( or anything else) I have ever attempted. My refrigerator stopped dispensing ice more than a year ago, and when I researched the problem online, I was overwhelmed by all the things that can go wrong with an ice dispenser--and I just let it go and satisfied myself with opening the freezer door and shoveling the ice out manually. Then I began to get curious and test out things and decided that I either needed an auger motor or this coupling--or both. The motor actually was working but it was making an odd noise, so I ordered both ( I found the auger motor for my refrigerator model much cheaper online somewhere else). As it turns out, all that was wrong with my ice dispenser assembly was the coupler which was stripped out and simply slipped around on the threaded shaft that the motor uses to turn the auger in the ice bucket which moves the ice to the dispenser. Most of the help videos showed that I would have to remove the auger motor and perform some kind of mcgyver to get the darn coupler off since it was stripped out. But lo and behold I learned on one of the forums discussing ice dispenser problems and fixes that if your coupler was not jammed on, if it was stripped out like mine and would not move backward or forward in order to be removed from the shaft--all you have to do is install a new one right in front of it (unplug fridge, remove ice container and by hand screw this left-handed coupler on, replace ice container, plug in refrigerator and you are good to go, if the coupler is the problem. It has been two weeks since I did this \"fix\", and my dispenser is working just fine with both cubed or crushed ice. My refrigerator has the old style plastic auger instead of the metal one, and so I probably will have to be careful from now on and make sure nothing gets jammed or the same problem will occur. I didn't need the motor but I have it if I need it, and I know how to change it out if I have to. It is not often I get an easy fix, and I certainly appreciated this one!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2464, "id": 62441, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 356, "len_tokens": 461, "text": "Unless you love the taste of burnt food, and want to spend a good portion of your evening scraping burnt, boiled over food off the burners, avoid KitchenAid Electric cooktops like the plague.  I call ours the 'electronic abortion'.  As the previous reviewer said, bump the control knobs and the burner lights up, and burns you!  These stoves are pure evil, not meant for any sane person to use.  The burners have some kind of thermostat that turns them hot sporadically, then shuts off just when you think your food might start to cook.  So you turn up the heat; big mistake.  Of a sudden the heat comes on and instantly boils over whatever's in the pot cooking.  It's simply impossible to cook a decent meal on these things.\n\nThe oven seems to work ok, but we've already burned out the oven lights once, and a pair of new ones costs like $50.00.  Holy Moly!  For oven lights?\n\nWe were lucky, we had a repairmen tell us not to use the self-cleaning function, which will burn out the electronics (most of his repair work was to replace these).\nHowever, we've had to dismantle the entire oven door to clean the glass.  Apparently, the boiled over food from the top somehow leaked down the edge of the cooktop into the door vents right on to the glass, and is then baked on solidly when the oven is used.  Great design Whirlpool (they own Kitchen-Aids)(yes, Kitchen-Aids, that's the only good name for these bogus appliance manufacturers).  May you go bankrupt, and soon.\n\nP.S. I thought the idea of cooktops was to make it easy to clean the burners.  Wrong, wrong, wrong.  Apparently the idea is to make you buy special cooktop cleaner, which doesn't clean the burned on food off worth a damn, so you end up buying razor blades to scrape the crap off.  Never had to to that with the old stove.  And, as an engineer who has worked with computers for many years, I simply cannot believe sensitive electronics would purposely be mounted directly above a 500F heat source.  That's really insane.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2465, "id": 478370, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 363, "len_tokens": 433, "text": "I have had this dishwasher for about a month. My old one was soooo bad...left food and debris all over the dishwasher. I decided to go with a Bosch because all 3 of the service men we had out for our old one, told us Bosch are the best. After reading various reviews on various Bosch models, I decided that a simple model would be best. One thing mentioned is the smaller interior compared to what Americans are used to. I decided a smaller interior would be a small sacrifice for CLEAN DISHES!!! What a concept, right?\n\nSo here are my objective opinions...and for what it is worth, we are a family of 6, we home school and my hubby works from home. Which translates into 6 people home all the time...which means this dishwasher runs at least once per day...sometimes twice...\n\nIt is only a tiny bit smaller inside.\nIt uses less soap.\nIt has a longer run time.\nYou have to turn the unit 'off' after it runs its cycle. It doesn't turn off automatically...kind of like your dvr staying on unless you turn it off. Different, but not a problem.\nYou can also turn off the sound that will beep to let you know when the cycle is over. Some have complained about that, but I guess they did not read the users manual that clearly tells you how to turn it down, or off completely.\n\nAll minor adjustments to 'normal' American engineering.\n\nOther reviews state that plastics don't dry. I have not had a problem with plastics drying...and really what is the big wooo? Open the door and let them air dry...not rocket science, right?\n\nThis review is really rooted in whether or not the appliance will CLEAN the dishes! And so far it does that magnificently! Love this machine so far. It is super quiet and everything comes out so clean and bright. I could not be happier.\n\nI installed it myself, with a bit of help from friend on the electrical part. It was pretty straight forward.\n\nIf I have left out anything you want to know, leave a comment and I will get back to you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2466, "id": 488994, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 370, "len_tokens": 412, "text": "I purchased this appliance about a year ago and have regretted it every day. It looks great but the 2 freezer drawers are so poorly designed it completely overrides any good qualities with the refrigerator. The top freezer drawer is so small you can fit a pound of bacon or possibly 2 but not much else. The bottom drawer is where the real frustration is. It has an ice maker with a slide out compartment which holds the cubes. Every single time you pull the tray forward to get to the ice the ice hangs up on the upper tray and several pieces fall out onto the floor or worse underneath the bottom drawer where you can't get to it. The bottom drawer is deceiving in its looks. It has the slide out upper tray which is where the ice is leaving a very small bottom portion which is not very deep. If you put an ice cream container (less than half gallon size)in there it snags the top and bunches it up and the drawer won't close. The freezer is almost half of the volume of the appliance and yet it holds such a ridiculously small amount.\nThe refrigerator door hinges had to be replaced because one of the doors didn't close correctly and of course that happened as we left for the weekend. Unlike any other fridge I have ever owed, you really have to make an effort to close the doors. They do not seal if you just swing them shut. You have to push the door all the way until it comes in contact with the body of the fridge. It usually beeps when the doors aren't closed correctly which happens often, but not that time. When we came back on Sunday the inerior temperature was 64 degrees. Yep, everything in the fridge had to be thrown out. The hinges were covered under warranty but not the food or the 10 bottles of insulin which were in there.  In fairness I think that the refrigerator has really good lighting but that just isn't enough when it comes to spending this type of money. This headache of a refrigerator will probably last me 30 long years.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2467, "id": 60383, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 359, "len_tokens": 430, "text": "Update: The company has just emailed me and advise me that I would have to ship the unit back to them to receive the warranty service, which is easily the cost of the unit. Essentially, there is no real warranty with this item. A terrible investment.\n\nI bought this freezer last December.  I had no complaints with it until it stopped working, defrosting all of the food inside.  After rescuing as much as I could I set out trying to get someone to repair the unit, as it comes with a one year warranty.  The first thing I discovered was the warranty information here on Amazon is not correct.  This item is not warrantied by GE, but rather by a third party corporation known as Curtis International which warranties all of Igloo's products.\n\nCurtis International's website:[...] States that they have 24/7 product support.  This isn't true because the first six times I called the phone tree dumped me into a queue and then I was disconnected with a message to call later at a time convenient to me. Um, I'm calling now because THIS is a time convenient to me. When I finally got through the person on the other end was difficult to understand, and after much repeating he asked me questions like \"Is the lid closed securely\" and then told me to reset the system \"By turning it to lo and then high 6-7 seven times\" I followed all of his supposed reset instructions (which, by the way, aren't in my user manual and felt like a delaying tactic) and surprise! I still have a puddle of water in the bottom of my freezer that doesn't work.\n\nSo now I have to try to figure out the sweet spot in Curtis' supposed 24/7 support time when they really do answer the phone to see if they'll actually fix my freezer. All in all, I've spent nearly a week trying to even get a response and my frustration level is pretty high.  $260 for a freezer that only works for nine months is a terrible investment, if you ask me.  Save your money and buy a different model.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2468, "id": 98498, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 414, "len_tokens": 491, "text": "This is the worst consumer product I have ever bought. Worse than any bad dell laptop or any other appliance. The sad thing is, that it does a great job washing dishes and is pretty quiet while doing it. Frigidaire seems to think that their solution to a ventless design is to let steam escape during drying from out the sides and top of the door. Within 6 months, my cabinets and doors were ruined by the constant steam. The finish peeled and cracked. was covered under warranty by maker of cabinets but clearly wasn't their fault. Then a few months later, the thing started blinking and would only sporadically respond to button presses and would only do random things not necessarily what I pressed. Service came out and replaced buttons and circuit board (under warranty). That circuit board started to cause my dishwasher to randomly make crazy noises at random times of day regardless of whether or not the dishwasher was actually run that day. Came out again and said they could not duplicate the problem, I asked them to stay until it did it again, and of course it started doing it again at 2am so they had left. Well, now I can get a new circuit board because it died again. lights blinking, then nothing. oh wait, nothing but then 5 minutes later burning smell and smoke. unplugged unit, thankfully I was home and prevented a bigger fire or explosion. Now it is past warranty and repair is $200 for the same crappy circuit board. if you ever get a chance to look at the circuit board, it resembles the technology of your old atari 2600 but actually costs more, does less and is extremely prone to failure. Over the years, frigidaire has made small changes to the design from an aesthetic point, but not from a functional point, the newer 2010 model still has the same lousy design. do a search on frigidaire circuit board failiure or frigidaire fire or frigidaire cabinet steam and see the many complaints. some have even gone so far as to make their own site dedicated to the problems with dishwasher. i am hoping to get a few more months out of this piece of garbage and find something else on sale. a complete waste of hundreds of dollars. so 1 year, 2 replaced circuit boards, should have been 3, replaced cabinet doors and have had a total of 3 weeks of no dishwasher.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2469, "id": 137471, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 370, "len_tokens": 476, "text": "My 5-year old GE PSC25NSWA fridge would periodically have water leak and/or icicles trailing from the ice cube compartment in the freezer section.  I suspected a hole in the ice tray, but further inspection and online research led me to this main control board as the culprit.  Supposedly, the older versions of this control board had issues properly regulating the freezer temperature, periodically causing the freezer contents--including the ice cubes--to melt.  No wonder some food in the freezer ended up bad!\n\nSince the fridge is out of warranty, a service call for parts & labor would be ~$700.  $85 for the part on Amazon (free s/h & cheaper than GE.com)?  No brainer, especially if you have experience installing PC add-on boards.\n\nSteps:\n\n1. Consult the online fridge manual diagram for the physical location of the control board (for mine, looking at the back, it's at the bottom right) and confirm it's easily accessible (~4 screws, but may have been hex; be sure to check yourself first).\n\n2.  Since you'll need to pull out the fridge to access the back, Remove any fragile or open containers from the fridge.\n\n3.  Unplug the fridge or turn off the power to the fridge at the circuit breaker.\n\n4.  After removing the control board cover, you may want to label the cables and take some pictures.  However, the Molex connectors are uniquely shaped to prevent you from replugging in wrong direction or socket.  Gently tug them from the board sockets at the plastic connectors and keep count of the plugs.\n\n5.  Unscrew the control board, remove, then screw in the new board.  Replug the cables (do not force anything, they should fit smoothly; obviously the count should be the same as from unplugging!).  Be careful not to drop the screw inside the fridge back when putting in the upper cover screws (hassle to dig out).\n\n6.  Plug the fridge back in or flip the circuit breaker back on to confirm fridge is operational (fridge light and temperature sensor should be on).\n\nIt's been 2 months, and 0 freezer issues since for me.  Good luck!\n\n* Update Jan 2016:\nIt's been over 2 years, and no problems with the fridge since.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2470, "id": 313639, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 375, "len_tokens": 419, "text": "I rarely give five star reviews but this right here hands down is the best thing I have bought here in Amazon. I'll give you guys that short version, I left on a trip and came home and my fianc told me that the dryer was acting weird it'll take 4-5 times just to dry clothes and she advised that it was ice cold when she took it out. Me thinking maybe the vent for the lint was full and so I crawled under neath my dryer and undid the vent tube and checked it but it was clear. After several YouTube videos and reading a lot of people said the dryer element might've been broken. I quickly undid the cover and tried to look in but I can only see the top of the element and not the bottom the top was fine. So I called around and to see how much it would cost to replace since you know I'm not s dryer technician. I was quoted from 250 all the way to 400 this included parts plus labor. Me being the super cheap person I was said acres that I found the part number on samsungs website and went to find it, thank god Amazon carried the item I rushed deliveried it to the casa.\n\nNow while I was waiting for the part to come via snail mail, I YouTube all the videos on how to take apart this thing called a dryer. The day came and it finally the part came, I drank a beer for courage of course because I was home by myself and knew that I had to drag this dryer out myself. I took it part per the you tube video and replaced the element and put everything back together. I fired it up while the cover was not on and that element lit up bright red and I was like heck yes! Mission accomplished I drank another celebratory beer and put it all back together.\n\nPros: great price and is the exact part\nDon't pay 300+ to get it repaired\nIf you can use a screw driver you can do this\n\nCons:\nIt didn't get to me fast enough\nI ran out of beer installing it", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2471, "id": 56289, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 315, "len_tokens": 400, "text": "I am so glad I bought this device.  After about 20 minutes of use, which included assembly and experimentation, I had succeeded in pulling out an ugly glob of wet, compacted lint from my dryer vent pipe.  That huge pile of yuck on the ground represented about 13 years of accumulation.  It also represented a fire hazard and drain on my electrical bill.  So, I'm glad I bought this device.  My vent pipe was about 20 feet or so long so I had to get some additional rods to make up the difference.  It is easy to assemble, the process being screwing fiber glass rods together.  [Think they're fiber glass].  Then attach a brush to one end and a drill to the other.  It's normal to be concerned about the rods disconnecting so I covered each joint with  electrical tape.  Actually, no realistic chance of a joint unscrewing unless you reverse your drill.  And I judge the rods to be unbreakable.  Then insert the brush and joints into the vent pipe until you encounter resistence.  Then activate your drill in a clockwise fashion and exert gentle pressure forward.  Periodically, pull the glob out until you're all the way through.  My vent was previously blowing an almost indiscernible wisp of air through the vent when the dryer was on.  Now it's a nice, solid, warm breeze as nothing stands in the way.  Clothes dry in FAR less time.  Even though the device is intuitive and easy to assemble and use, there are clearly written instructions that also give some advice on dryer connections.  And if you were to disconnect or break a rod inside the vent, the company has a toll-free number for a device to fix that.  [I suspect it is a magnetized rod].  Anyway, now that I'm unclogged, I plan to use the device periodically for PM to prevent this problem in the future.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2472, "id": 301083, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 367, "len_tokens": 429, "text": "Like flooding your home? This appliance is for you! You have to drain the tube at the bottom of the machine after pretty much every use or it's motor dies and you have to replace it yourself. If you forget to screw the stopper back in place or it's not put in perfectly, the next load of washing machine water ends up on your floor. I've had to deal with 5 floods this year all because of this horrible feature. This machine is described as being smart and technological, however it has ZERO ability to tell you that the stopper is not in place or that it's flooding your house. A SMART machine should not flood your house. I can't believe I paid this much for the worst machine I've ever dealt with. And since you need to use this ridiculous feature every time you wash, you pretty much have to keep that ugly flap open on the bottom left of the machine, and have an ugly tube sticking out permanently...or risk having someone forget to drain and clear the thing, and then deal with another motor breaking. Each time someone does the laundry you're risking a flood or burnt out engine. This is not attractive, not smart, and a horrible design. Major fail, LG. And what genius thought up the lint trap feature?? It literally cakes lint onto the rim of the washing machine, so you have to drag your freshly cleaned items across all of the pet hair and lint it has collected. There are no devices or anything provided to remove the hair, you're expected to scratch at it like a wild animal to remove whatever hair you can. Huge, huge, HUGE oversights made when designing this machine. LG, TEST YOUR PRODUCTS before selling them on the market. A washing machine should NOT destroy your home, it should make life easier. LG makes life impossibly hard. I would have been better off with a used $200 machine. I'm never buying LG anything again. I've included a photo of after I've squeegee'd half an inch of soapy laundry water off my floor, and the worthless ugly tube that makes all of that 5am misery possible.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2473, "id": 172633, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 356, "len_tokens": 414, "text": "Dishes were not getting cleaned and coming out with food baked to the porcelain.  I thought it was caused by the kids not pre-washing the dishes clean before going into the dishwasher.  After some investigation, running the dishwasher and opening the door minutes into the cycle, I realized that the water pressure was low (or non-existent).\n\nI figured since there are so few moving parts in the dishwasher, the pump was the problem.  I ordered this pump from Amazon and it came quickly.  Actually, they sent an icemaker by accident but the retailer worked quickly to get me the right item so I won't ding them on that mistake.\n\nI spent a few minutes watching a video on YouTube on how to replace the unit then tackled it on Saturday.  I didn't have to remove the dishwasher from the wall which was nice.  I just removed the kick plate to get access to the underside of the unit then the white clips (these weren't explained in the video but easily figured out) and finally the electric harness... viola!  Out comes the old pump.\n\nInstalling the pump was easy, required a bit of contortion to replace the clips but easy enough.  Make sure to watch the videos online because they help you get a sense of where things are while you're using your fingers without visually seeing some places you're working.\n\nI did this by myself and it took maybe 60 minutes from start to finish (first thing I did was cut power to the dishwasher at the electric panel).  Yes, I put some vege oil on the seal based on the advice of others.  No problem getting it clipped into place.\n\nAnother tip, be careful removing and replacing the washing arm (the 4 armed unit that spins under the dish tray).  It is made of plastic and the threads will damage if you apply too much pressure.  I had to perfectly align the threads then use a needle nose plier to pull up the mail threaded screw piece while pressing firmly on the washing arm unit.  It was a bit of a task.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2474, "id": 225995, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 273, "len_tokens": 402, "text": "I had to give this 4 out of 5 because although this was listed as the correct part for my washer, perhaps because my washer is a Kenmore 110.9227411 or because it's so old, the wire harness connector on this part was all wrong.  It was bigger, too big for the cut-out on my washer and the internal contacts were sort of a blade versus the round pin-and-socket variety on mine.  But the mechanical end mated to my lid mount point just fine.  So it was a quick job to cut and splice my connector onto the new part.  Incidentally, the part number printed onto the part I removed part is 3352630.\n\nAnd this Youtube video was essential:  Search on \"Lid Switch Replacement (part #3949238) - Whirlpool/Kenmore Washer Repair\"\n\nUpdate 1/18/2016\nThe washer stopped draining this week.  The two possibilities were the drain pump or the lid switch.  I was figuring it was the pump since I had already replaced the switch.  I didn't initially believe the continuity test showing the switch had failed.  But jumpering the switch at the connector verified this diagnosis.  The original switch lasted 10+ years.  This one failed in 1 year 3 months.  Evidently, they don't make these things like they used to ... but it looks like I'll have to buy another one.\n\nUpdate: 1/23/2016\nSince my part failed, I purchased the GARP compatible version of this switch http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MGMWOW2?redirect=true&ref_=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0  The GARP part could have been manufactured/assembled in the same place.  Side by side it was identical except for the font for the switch voltage specifications molded into the plastic switch body.  Hopefully it will last longer.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2475, "id": 218238, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 410, "len_tokens": 483, "text": "After much researching I decided to buy the Nina Dyer and the Extreme Power  portable washing machine at the same time.  They both work great.  The Nina spins spo much water out of the clothes that I am able to hang my clothes in my closet to dry and never have to worry about dripping on the floor.  There is NO dripping ---just fast drying .  It is bigger than I thought but sits in the corner of my bathroom just fine while not in use.  When empty is not too heavy to move in and out of place.  I have a pink plastic Easter bucket  that collects all the water while spinning and then sits on top of the Nina when not is use.\n\nSuggestions for use:\n\n1. After washing item squeeze out extra water (so it isn't too drippy)  before loading item into dryer.  This means less weight for the dryer to spin around and less water in your bucket.\n\n2.  Load one item at a time in the dryer in a circular shape trying hug the inner wall of the dryer and keeping the center as open as possible. Don't have the ends of each garment meet all in the same place but rotate those meeting places all around the inside of the dryer.\n\n 3.. Load your heavy items first then your lighter ones last.  Use the empty center part of the dryer for your underwear, socks etc.\n\n4..When starting the dryer hold on to the unit until it gets up to speed just to make sure that things are in balance.\n\n5.  When stopping the unit instead of lifting the lid which will throw it into a extreme braking/stopping movement  I choose to unplug the unit itself.  This will allow the unit to slow down naturally and save wear and tear on the braking mechanisim..\n\nUsing the above suggestions have resulted in excellent results for our family with this unit.  I would highly recommend this dryer to others.\n\nP.S.---This is NOT a traditional dryer as it has no heater or blower.  It merely removes so much water from the clothes by centrifigual force that the clothes are left DAMP dry.  These DAMP clothes then need to be hung up to AIR dry quickly the rest of the way.  Using this unit will result in less fading and wear and tear on your clothes--meaning your clothes will look nicer , last longer and thus will save you money.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2476, "id": 245282, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 339, "len_tokens": 412, "text": "If you are an ice snob like me - you learn how to make this machine work.......\n\nThat being said, apparently I am not using it correctly but it's the only way I can get it to make ice.  The manual says \"Do not fill front reservoir with water\" but if I don't, my machine acts like there's no water in it!!!!!  My ice maker will not pull water from the back tank.  If the front tank empties, my machine gets super loud and makes white ice that has to be thrown out.\n\nOh... and cleaning.... hahahahaha!!!!  I have a water softener installed in my home and I use filtered water from my refrigerator but the gunk this thing gets built up is pretty bad!!!!  Today I finally took the back off, the top off and removed all the water lines to really clean it.  The amount of gunk removed and to see the mold spots on areas where water flows was really pretty scary when thinking I drink this stuff every day!!!\n\nI've purchased a different, less expensive counter top ice maker because when I get ice from my Luma, I LOVE it!!!!  Best ice ever (even though I know what's in those pipes).  This makes far superior ice and actually has less problems than the igloo ice maker I purchased.  If you are looking for a counter top ice maker that makes clean ice - this is it.  Otherwise the next option is an installed under counter ice maker.  I haven't found another product that makes ice this good..... you just have to learn the trickery of making it work.\n\nOh.... and the auto shut off valve.... man come on, there's not enough ice in that bin yet.... it barely fills my 30oz Rambler with that little basket!!!!  I'm tempted to take that lever off!!!\n\nYes it makes great ice, but it's not going to be a fill it and forget it deal.  You are going to have to work for your ice with this machine!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2477, "id": 76388, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 362, "len_tokens": 455, "text": "Well, I just bought a new model, the 00611A3-ex and am very disappointed.\n\nI asked the co. if the unit would read from my old sensor, as I didn't want two different sensors on the table on the porch.\n\nTook them two weeks to answer, yes it would.\n\nSo I bought it (not from Amazon) and found out, no it won't.\n\nNot only that, although this unit cost more than my old units, it's functions have been downgraded.  The old units included on the display the high and low temps for the day.  The new one doesn't, you have to push tiny little buttons on the back to temporarily display each separately.\n\nFurther, the new one is, indeed inaccurate compared to the older ones, and to a pretty good thermometer I used to check all of them.\n\nLastly, the outside relative humidity reading is stuck on 99%.  It won't move.\n\nI'm returning it.\n\nInitially:  I have had two of these for several years, and previous models also, and have always found they work well, subject to two caveats:\n\nKeep the sensor out of the sun.  It will definitely read inaccurately if the sun is heating it up directly, it's to measure air temp. and humidity, not heat from the sun.\n\nMicro-climates - the climate at your house is virtually never going to be what they report from the airport, even if you live by the airport, or from other weather bureau stations or even satellite measurements unless they are measuring from where you have the sensor.  With these you can discover what your micro-climate is.  For instance, my shaded screened porch is usually about 2 degrees more in the winter, and 2 degrees less in the summer than what the weather service is reporting for our area.\n\nWhy?  We are completely surrounded, 360 degrees, by trees.  We're in the middle of a 200 ft diameter circle.  Not only do the trees (and the meadow inside the circle, we don't have a lawn) greatly affect the temperature, they also break the wind.\n\nOur humidity in the summer is a few points higher than the weather service reports, about the same in the winter.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2478, "id": 508077, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 381, "len_tokens": 445, "text": "I bought this range around 10/14 and have been using it a couple months. I planned on going induction for a long time and have been collecting a set of All-Clad cookware for years. I can't say how cheap cookware works but induction is amazing with the all-Clad.\n\nI picked this particular range for 2 reasons. Induction requires a lot of power tech and I thought who better than GE. Second, this range's control panel is touch sensitive glass. The others I saw had wavy soft plastic touch panels, unattractive and more prone to damage. This panel works flawlessly and the controls are fairly simple.\n\nI haven't noticed any noises while cooking. The burner settings start with L then go up 1 to 9 with half stops and H for a total of 19 heat settings which switch in under a second. You get an almost instant change in temp which is obvious in the pot or pan. Since there's no heat element to retain heat or to heat up, the change in temp in what you are cooking is almost instant.  The small burner has a warm setting, the two medium burners have a simmer setting and the large burner has a power boil setting. There is a small warmer burner that is not induction but it doesn't get very hot. The largest burner with a very large pot of water will boil it very fast, faster even than the medium burner with a much smaller pot.\n\nThe oven is convection which is nice. Much nicer is that the bottom heat element is hidden, nothing but a flat metal bottom with a recess for water for the steam clean feature. It also has a regular self-clean cycle.\n\nAll I can say is induction is everything I expected and I love this range. I've had gas and electric and this technology beats them both. Cooking is a pleasure, the digital heat settings make it easy to do whatever you want, from warm to simmer to boil.\n\nI didn't even find this range here when I was buying. I would expect this model to disappear soon but if a replacement has similar features as I've described it will probably be as good or better. I will update this review in the future.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2479, "id": 297694, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 337, "len_tokens": 404, "text": "My dryer was pumping out freezing cold air all the time due to the cheap plastic flapper always getting stuck.  This thing has made a huge difference!  I can't believe people are paying 2x as much for the Heartland version.  I'm sure the plastic is better, but at twice the price it can't be worth it.\n\nInstall was simple except for using spray foam.  I was concerned about it not having the pipe, but it's actually better that way.  Most people are ordering this to replace their failing one which already has the pipe.  My cover just crumbled apart leaving the perfectly flush pipe.  Perhaps just as important is that I found there was a large square hole in my wall which wasn't insulated at all, so it was like having a 4\" square hole piping cold air into my building.  A can of great stuff (which is horribly messy and won't spray upright, but \"horrible stuff\" probably wouldn't sell as well) sealed that up tight as a drum.  I waited an hour for the foam to expand then installed this temporarily.  I came back another hour later and it had gushed into the pipe area, so if you use foam plan on coming back the next day to trim and do the final install.  It is a pain that it needs to be painted, but I can understand that would raise the price a lot.  The four holes almost lined up exactly so no carpentry required.\n\nI'm mildly concerned that the plastic floating cap that blocks the vent may get some lint trapped and not seal completely.  I don't see a better way of doing it since there's always a chance lint will attach itself.  I only just installed it so I'll have to update it after a few months to see if it gets lint caught there.  I would plan to check it each winter.  The good news is the top is separate from the 90 pipe so you can easily access & clean everything.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2480, "id": 188877, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 405, "len_tokens": 481, "text": "Use Case:  I recently redesigned / cleaned out my basement to turn it into a \"man cave\" for my young boys.  The setup is now less toys and more around football decor and TV/XBox for more older kids enjoyment.  We quickly realized now that friends  come over and hang in our basement that it's annoying to have them keep coming upstairs for drinks so a fridge was the obvious choice.  I wanted one that had a glass front to make it more modern and nice to go with the decor and something small profile because I wouldn't need one for lots of things.\n\nShipping:  Item came very fast and very well packaged.  No issues at all.\n\nSetup:  All I had to do it take out of packaging materials, remove a few pieces of tape securing the door and shelves and then just plug it in.\n\nUsage:  The fridge is set to 3 which is medium level cooling - just enough to keep the drinks cool but not as cold as fridge, slightly less cold.  There are 2 stronger (colder) settings that I have not used but I'm sure work fine.  The operation of the fridge is very quiet- we really don't hear it at all and the couch is very near the fridge.  Granted, it's not super quiet most times down there but overall it's quiet.  It's so quiet I even wondered if it was working so I took to the manual to double check I didn't miss something in setup.  The manual did say that this isn't like a typical fridge because it's a beverage cooler so the sounds may differ than what we are used to hearing or come to expect.\n\nThe inside shelves are as you would expect and hold Gatorade bottles, soda cans, water bottles no problem.  However, unless you remove the one shelf you really can't get in like a liter of a drink.  The other thing to point out is the bottom shelf back doesn't go all the way to the back it only goes back half the distance of the top.\n\nCons:  None really that I can think of!\n\nOverall, I'd certainly recommend if you are in the market for a small / dorm size fridge.  The glass front adds a very nice touch for decor (only if you plan to have it nice inside).  the price was good and hope it lasts for years to come!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2481, "id": 38952, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 345, "len_tokens": 417, "text": "I was hesitant about purchasing this kegerator because of some of the reviews but decided to buy it anyway.  The unit came in scratch and dent free which I was very pleased about.  I spent the extra bucks and got the stainless model which looks nice in the man cave.  I was a little surprised how small the unit was when I was unpacking it.  In the pictures they all look the same but this is not a full size kegerator it is basically a mini-fridge with an over sized door to accomodate a full size keg.  This was not an issue for me because I am limited on space and the overall cosmetic appearance of the unit is very nice.  I installed the casters to give it more height.  The kegerator assembled easily and came with alot of spare gaskets, parts and wrenches which I thought was cool.  Do pay attention to the gasket that belongs beneath the tower like the other reviews say because it is not mentioned in the instructions.  It comes with a 2.5 pound Co2 tank which is adequate but I will probaly upgrade to a 5 pound.  It also came with a nice dual gauge Co2 regulator unlike some reviews said.  Some of the reviews said the unit would not get cold enough.  Mine seems to stay around 34-36 degrees on the max setting. That seems perfect to me!  Some of the reviews talk about the noise.  I can say it is a little noisy but just a little more than a regular refrigerator. You get what you pay for in life and this unit has some cheaply made parts here and there but at the end of the day what do you expect from a kegerator?  Cold draft beer when you want it and this unit will deliver!  Why pay hundreds more?  I am very pleased so far.  I've only had it for three days and am half way through my first keg of blue moon but no issues so far.  I will update if any issues arrive!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2482, "id": 63903, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 328, "len_tokens": 402, "text": "I am a big fan of Broan products. We even call ourselves Broanies, we've purchased so many fans from them.  I've purchased four bathroom fans and two range hoods so far. That said, this range hood has some things that are great and some things that are not great. I purchased it because I love the big, easy-to-clean, zero-button outer surface. That was always the ONE thing I didn't like about my older range hood was getting the dirt and grease out of the button areas and around their logos. Plus, with a duel blower this thing REALLY draws air very well, has a built-in damper so if you are using one on the outside vent exit, the combination assures better prevention of outside air infiltration through the system.  (Note: I always put window screen over the exits to keep any bugs out as well.)\n\nThe smaller problems are:\n\n1. The size is a bit off. This is about a quarter of an inch smaller than 30 inches. Doesn't seem like a big deal until you start installing it and find that the width will need some filler because it isn't the same size as a 30 inch cabinet. They need to fix this because cabinets don't flex and bend and it's a pain to try and make filler match cabinets perfectly.\n\n2. The steel is not that thick. It's OK, but I've noticed that more and more manufacturers are skimping on the thickness of steel these days. Easy to ding, easy to bend.\n\n3. The paint coating is a little rough in places. I'm going to have to sand this one and re-paint it with a good gloss enamel to match the kitchen anyway, but this would bother me if I was going to stick with this color.\n\nAll in all, a great range hood, but some drawbacks.  Lots of air movement (seriously, 7 cubic feet of air per second???) and a nice clean look.  Four stars!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2483, "id": 82885, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 360, "len_tokens": 499, "text": "Ok,  shipping was fast enough, quality of product good, and new wire/spring fasteners are included.  The remaining review is a 'how I spent my afternoon' story.\n\nDon't try this if you get frustrated easily.  I have a BOSCH NEXXT 500 Series Washer, circa about 2009.\n\n1) Take top off - 4 screws torx style, smaller size\n2) Take hinge cover off,  4 screws torx style, smaller size\n3) holding door at 90 degrees from washer pull off hinges\n4) take off hinge mount, 2 screws torx style, larger size\n5) take out latch screws, 2 screws torx style, smaller size\n6) remove door opening surround\n7) Pull off outside gasket, pulling up at wire spring\n8) Pull off inside gasket, pulling up at wire spring on top where tab shows in picture\n9) Fasten inner gasket.  Pull tab as shown in picture,  three holes at bottom.  Be sure to push edge in tight - as shown in picture - seem has to be tight.  This is a pain,  I worked top to bottom, both sides at a time.  I used the covered wrench handle to press on seam.  Once on it stays nice.\n10) Replace new wire w/spring -- it's the larger circumference one.\n11)  Cuss some, take some rest, and eat lunch.\n12) Reinstall door opening surround,  attach hinge mount, latch mount, door, hinge cover\n13)  Fasten outer gasket,  this is much easier than the inner one,  but wait....\n14) The outer wire w/spring is very hard to fit.  Every time it pops off it pulls the gasket off\n15)  I positioned the spring at the bottom.  From the top I hand fed the wire down both sides,  but stopped the right side at 3 oclock.  Once the spring was in position I held it tight with massive screw driver tip.  I held the wire with the funky pliers shown so that I could stretch the string and pull the wire about.  My third hand followed behind to keep the right side wire from pulling back out.\n16) Insert miracle.  While waiting for miracle get third hand to open a beer.\n17)  Test washer, get repair shop number ready.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2484, "id": 170335, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 350, "len_tokens": 423, "text": "This is the standard replacement for several major brands of refrigerators.  Don't let the picture fool or worry you.  The picture is reversed/upsided down mirror image of how the unit goes in your freezer.  To take your old unit out, there are two sbrews on the top above the ice cube tray & optional on most one screw below with a small plastic wedge. Take them out, unplug the power cord and it comes right out.\n\nThe new ice maker comes with a short (about 5 inch) wiring harness which you can see one end of it in the picture.  My Maytag did NOT need this part becasue my wires come right out of the freezer wall and are long enough to strech to the front on the unit where they plug in.  On some brands the wires do not come out of the wall but have a plug in the wall.  For these they are suppling a new cord.\n\nYou will need two things from your old ice maker.  There is a platic cover that pops on/off the front of the ice maker that covers the moter/grears.  The other is the thin metal rod that goes from the front to the back of the ice cube tray.  It it the one you push all the way up to stop the maker from making ice.  To remove, the back just pops out, the front has to be twisted out.  Just go slow and don't force it, one way will give the other way won't.  Repeat to install the metal rod on the new ice maker.\n\nJust plug it and screw it in & your good to go.  It make take some time for the first batch of ice to fall.  I suggest letting several batches fall and pitching them in case of any residual stuff left on the maker from production.\n\nSears and other appliance stores and sites charge upward of $100 for this.  At less than $50 this is a great deal.  I scrolled down and used the \"Buy Used and Save\" and got a returned unit for $31!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2485, "id": 87107, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2486, "id": 87115, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2487, "id": 347488, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 406, "len_tokens": 495, "text": "I received a free item to review.\n\nThree of them, actually (they make great gifts for people without refrigerator built-ins, or who entertain a lot).\n\nThe difference between the three models of Ivation portable mini-icemaker comes down to the number of ice cube sizes each can produce (1, 2, or 3), the relative size of the compartment lid, the control panel and its orientation (top or front-facing), and the overall size/style of the unit.\nThe compressor, capacity, and operation of the three models are essentially the same.\n\n I went into more detail in my review of the 3-sizes-of-cubes model so Im just going to recap here:\n\nThis particular model produces only one size of ice cube. My fridge built-in only makes one-size and I've never thought it a problem. The size corresponds to the 'large' size of the two-size model and the 'medium' size of the three-size model.\n\nThe ice cubes are shaped like hollowed-out rounded cones, not the semi-circular solids many refrigerator built-ins produce nor the classic cube shape you get with freezer trays.\n\nIt takes just over a 6-cup Brita pitcher-full of water to fill the icemaker to the max indicator. The compartment lid stays open by itself so pouring is comfortable.\n\nIt takes about two hours to make cubes using just about all of the water. All three units will simply detect and go into standby when the basket is full so theres no worry about overflow. I emptied the basket twice, the first time at about the one hour mark.\n\nAll three icemaker models are very easy to operate and don't produce excessive noise. The three-cube model has a somewhat more complex control panel with a standby/pause function and auto on/off timer. It also provides a bit more feedback in the form of troubleshooting icons.\n\nThis one-sized cube models is probably the simplest to operate and I think the appearance of the control panels is more attractive than the one on the three size model.\n\nAll three models use the same drain plug mechanism and are easy to position over a sink.\n\nBottom Line: All three icemaker models are well-made and attractive  although all are too large to keep permanently on our countertop. The hollow cone-shaped cubes are an acquired taste but if you entertain a lot and need to crank out more ice than the fridge can handle (or you don't have a built-in), its a handy and easy-to-use addition.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2488, "id": 185332, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 392, "len_tokens": 465, "text": "Let me say that I do like FLUKE products, I always trust FLUKE when it comes for all my digital multimeter or a multitester needs. I have been using my Digital multimeter at work & home for years and has never failed me. When I was offered to review this handy industrial grade FLUKE 971 Temperature and Humidity sensor I gladly accepted it trusting that it will be accurate and will provide years of service.\n\nThe unit came with four AAA batteries installed and the temperature setting to degrees Fahrenheit. You can change the switch to read degrees centigrade if you wish also you can disable the auto shutoff feature. These buttons are accessible inside and adjacent to the battery compartment. This meter also has back-lit LCD display and the readings were easy to read. Pushing the power button automatically starts the humidity and temperature reading instantly.\n\nNow, I am not a licensed contractor nor I repair HVAC epuipments but I do see the need for accuracy where the industry demands it. From my observations right out of the box the unit was very accurate but there is always a chance for these meters to go out of calibration as some of the reviewers have mentioned here. The accuracy of 'RH' is the key, yes these meters can get off calibration especially when subjected to extreme changes in temperatures and humidity you need to give the meter few mins for it to acclimatize to the environment you are trying to get reading from.\n\nThis is not your grandma's temperature probe. This is a very capable sensitive instrument which built to last. This is an industrial grade unit, built to take a beating! IMHO much quicker than a sling psychrometer and Yes, it does respond slowly which is the nature of thermo-hygrometers so before you say it is slow to respond thing again what you are using it for and you will see that it will provide faithful readings.\n\nAlso, if you do not use the instrument for a long period, the meter can 'dry-out' causing the inconsistent readings that some reviewers have mentioned here. Cycling in a humidity chamber for few days at 90%+ humidity and 20C/68F to 30C/86F can often bring a dried-out meter back into factory calibrated specifications without having to spend a tons of money on factory calibration cost.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2489, "id": 38820, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 346, "len_tokens": 417, "text": "I read up on this model prior to buying in March and have now had it for 6 weeks or so. I am now on my 4th 1/6th barrel as more \"friends\" seem to be stopping by.\n\n I found this model a bit intimidating at first to put together as I assumed the bag with all the \"spare parts\" would need to be used in the assembly (the directions are not great). This was not the case. Once I got going the directions made more sense and I was pouring perfect pints in no time.  Note: the tower washer that holds it in place was connected to the hole plug (provided to allow you to use a a mini fridge). Once I figured that out (not in instructions) I was all set.\n\nI have since bought a cleaning kit and have completely disassembled the tap and put it back together without any problem. I also bought the tap covers to keep the lines from getting any contamination and picked up a cool Lowenbrau tap handle.\n\nI read other reviews regarding the thermostat and the regulator. The thermostat works fine on mine. I have it set at about 75% of the max and my beer is consistently about 34 degrees. The regulator is sufficient at this point but I will upgrade. You really have to tweak it to get the proper pressure (I keep it at about 10 psi) after cleaning the beer lines.\nMy kegerator came with a 2 lb co2 tank. I brought it down and swapped it out for a 2.5 lb. I was told when that needs to be refilled I can swap it for a 5lb although the 2.5 is fine as there are several places to fill or swap in my area.\n\nThis thing fits 2 1/6th barrels no problem so at some point I'm going to to upgrade to the double tap tower and set up the pin lock connection for the Corny keg.\n\nOverall I'm loving this thing. You can't beat the price or the prime shipping.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2490, "id": 59813, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 397, "len_tokens": 459, "text": "Living in a small apartment in NYC this product is a godsend. However, we wish Danby's design department think things through.\nThis is our third generation of Danby dishwashers. The first one had problems with the window leaking after a year, and the soap dispenser and door broke.\nThe second generation Danby improved the soap dispenser problem and created a well for the soap to be placed in, plus, the spray arm was built beefier and worked nicely. But the rack was a disaster. Less material made in the rack produced too many wide spaces for small things to fall through. This dishwasher was sensitive to the amount of soap you used and tend to foam up quite often. This window did eventually come out on us as well and we glued it back in and all was fine until the timer went and our dishwasher was prone to flood from the feed water not stopping.\nAlas it was time for the third generation.\n1. The delivery was flawless, the packaging perfect.\n2. The spray arm is terrific.\n3. The rack, still much to be desired. I think Danby should go back to the old one, customers will approve of this one. (We kept the rack from the first one)\n4. The mechanical timer has been replaced with an electronic one which is great except the programs are many, P1,P2,P3,P4,P5. Which is complicated enough but the dishwasher does not let us know how much time we have left, what the cycles mean, go to your manual folks and make a copy, take a magnet and viola! With all the digital wonders out there another read out would be nice because the length of time on the programs has been extended and we find ourselves waiting for that final beep. The most annoying thing about this is the space of time between the final wash cycle and the when the water drains out of the basin. This is a concern for us as we like to open the door to air-dry the dishes and shut off the power.\nWhat we like is that the dishes do come out nice and clean.\nAnd on a small note this dishwasher is not the silent type, yet nothing we can't handle.\nDanby, this is great product for people with limited space and small sinks, and busy lives.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2491, "id": 540553, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 345, "len_tokens": 405, "text": "UPDATE- BUYER BEWARE THIS COMPANY IS A SCAM! THEY REFUSE TO HONOR THEIR WARRANTY! My washer broke and was still covered under warranty (the company even admited this) and two months later I am still waiting for someone to come and actually fix it. They will not return my phone calls or get back to me. The first \"repair technician\" they tried to send to me was over 5 hours away. The second company they found that was willing to come out was a local company that they then refused to send information to for the repair guys to fix it! So my washer is still not working, and they are still refusing to return my calls. BIGGEST WASTE OF MONEY YOU COULD EVER SPEND! Also, Amazon refused to help me! So much for an A to Z customer satisfaction gurantee! They basically said \"too bad for you\"! Absolute crap all around! Shame on Amazon for letting this company sell anything on their site! And shame again for leaving loyal customers out in the cold to deal with such a horrible company.\n\n love this washer/dryer. I've had it for about a month now and it is perfect! The set up was easy, though if you are planning on hooking it up to a kitchen sink like I have you will need a Y hose from a hardware store, and wheels if you need to move it around. Both of those were very easy things to add, and it really is a wonderful product. It is pretty quiet as well, I would say probably about as loud as my hair dryer when it is installed correctly and balanced as well. If it is not balanced it will be much louder, however a few minutes with a leveler and you should be good to go. I needed help getting everything set up the first time with the wheels and connecting hoses but after that I've been fine without any help. Would absolutely recommend this machine to anyone who hates using the laundromat and is limited on space.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2492, "id": 397621, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 371, "len_tokens": 431, "text": "I was hesitant to buy something like this for years for fear it'd steam up the whole apartment.  It does generate some humidity but the forced air does as much of the work and it only raises the indoor temperature by a degree or two when the central air is running.  Setup is a breeze.  Heater unit seems to be a ceramic element and something like a large PC case fan so it's probably pretty safe but not necessarily childproof.  Things are now drying in a couple hours instead of sitting on my drying rack getting mildewed.\n\nAs both positive and negative it's pretty compact so space is limited - my Haier apartment washer is 2.3 cubic feet and when packed it ends up being two dryer loads in this thing.  Certainly makes it portable-ish for balcony or patio use.\n\nIt'd be nice to have one more hanging bar and additional racks for up top for hanging socks etc but all that is surely hackable.  I really want to try using the heater with a larger Origami closet I already own (once vents are added) and Ikea should really look into using something like this for a combination sauna/closet/clothes-dryer if the fire hazards of that brilliant an idea could be mitigated.\n\nNote that during assembly you need to slip the cover over the bottom rods and the heater sits under it with the cone poking through.  I was expecting an open bottom or something like a solid board making it easier to replace the outer cover without taking it all apart.  Performance does seem optimized as-is though, just be prepared to sweep lint and hairs out of the bottom of the cover every once in a while.  Also remember to open the zipper after the cycle so the latent heat in the clothes can finish the drying process for you.\n\nThe other minor but very easily addressed gripe is the mechanical timer feels sturdy but the sloped knob is fiddly to grip with damp fingers - it'll probably loosen up and get easier once I've used it more than a dozen times.\n\nThis will save your life if you've gotten used to waiting 3 days for dry musty jeans in summer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2493, "id": 222727, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 385, "len_tokens": 477, "text": "Received Genuine Whirlpool Factory Certified 3392519 Thermal Fuse. Since thermal fuses fail due to excessive heat load (versus an electrical fuse which senses excessive current), rather than simply replace the fuse, be sure to investigate and fix the cause of the failure. This specific thermal fuse typically gets too hot due to restricted air flow.  Restricted air flow is either a blockage in the ducting, or debris accumulation in the actual exhaust fan (or both).  Consequently, please don't just replace your thermal fuse without a complete system cleaning. Aside from constant fuse failures, these can be major life and property saving safety devices.\n\nMy particular dryer exhaust system is under the slab, and runs about 20 feet. Using my handy-dandy duct cleaning system and shop-vac, I proceeded to clean the in-home exhaust ventilation system. Between myself, the wife and three daughters, there is a significant amount of washing and drying taking place. Most folks do not realize the sheer volume of moisture being pumped during the drying process. Naturally, this moisture condenses along the interior surface of the exhaust ducting; then, that same wet surface area slowly but surely accumulates dryer lint, along with general dust and debris being pulled through what is basically an expensive air pump (your dryer exhaust fan). Over time, this constant coating process effectively reduces the inside diameter of the system, reducing air flow and placing a greater load on the dryer fan. In addition, extended dryer run time means higher energy bills.\n\n20 minutes of clean time resulted in approximately a cubic foot of debris from the exhaust system alone.  Next proceed to the dryer cleaning process (after all, you already have the back cover off). This baby was full of dust, hair, spiders (I hate spiders...), etc.  Another 6 screws and the fan cover is removed (Whirlpool LER8648LW0). There I discovered toothpicks, hair pins, safety pins, small pebbles, sand, pieces of pens and pencils, along with a variety of other items that left me scratching my head. Anyway, the fuse failure forced the issue, and a couple of well spent hours resulted in a completely cleaned dryer, and exhaust duct system.\n\nInstalled my genuine Whirlpool thermal fuse, and the dryer is back up and running even more efficiently than before.\n\nI hope this helps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2494, "id": 175134, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 345, "len_tokens": 471, "text": "Wow, I Fixed it myself and it was Fairly Easy to do... Saved me over $300 In Repair Cost!!!\n\nSo My Frigidaire Refrigerator was about 10 years old... One day I open the Lower Refrigerator part and the Refrigerator is WARM... Hmmm Something is not right... I open the Freezer and I notice ICE on the Back Wall... Upon Inspection with a Flashlight I see the ENTIRE BACK of the FReezer is ICED UP Completely.\n\nThankfully Today in 2016 we have The Internet!!!! I can Learn how to do any Repair by watching a YouTube Video!!!\n\nSo I go to YouTube and find several videos explaining how to fix this icing problem...\n\nFirst I undo 2 Screws and Remove the Back of my Freezer... Sure enough the Coils are COMPLETELY FROZEN... Wow... I take a Hairdrier and MELT ALL THE ICE... Plug the Fridge back in and WOW... PERFECT.... Working like a Champ again... For about 2 days before the Freezer Iced up again.. ;(\n\nSo I do Internet Research and Find out that there are ONLY 2 Real Reasons the Freezer Coils Ice Up...\n\n1. The Defrost Thermostat has Failed....\n\n2. The Defrost Timer has Failed...\n\nI undid 4 screws and Took a look at the defrost timer and Saw parts MOVING inside of it's Clear Housing!!! (Thank You to however designed the Frigidaire Defrost Timer for making it CLEAR so I can SEE the Moving Parts.\n\nSo It's Probably NOT the Timer...\n\nThat means It must be the Defrost Thermostat... I order this part HERE on Amazon for a Whopping... $12.51 with Prime FREE SHIPPING!!!!! What a Deal!!\n\nThe Part arrives and after watching a YouTube Video on How to Cut the Wires and Install this Baby I proceed to FIX MY OWN REFRIGERATOR!!!!\n\nI Pulled it off... Plugged it back in and PRESTO!!!!!!!!!! BRAND NEW FRIDGE AGAIN WORKING LIKE A CHAMP!!!!\n\nFixed for $12.51!!! I hear the REPAIR COST for this Repair is Upwards of $300-$400!!!!!\n\nTrust me YOU CAN DO THIS... Go to YouTube and Look Up Fridge Defrost Thermostat Replacement!!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2495, "id": 511948, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 340, "len_tokens": 403, "text": "We purchased this unit and were pretty happy with it overall, it was competitively priced. However, it broke 2 months out of warranty. That's when I found out how terrible LG customer support is. When you email them, you cannot follow your thread, but have to start all over again each time. The phone people cannot help much, and when I asked to speak to a manager, was disconnected, and never got a call back. I did my own problem determination, using the paper guide on the back of the unit, and this indicated the board was bad - one of the most expensive items!!\n\nCome to find out this is a common problem with many LG electric stoves! Service plan costs $400 - about the cost of the  board, so after trying to get LG to replace for free or partial, we give up as it's close to Thanksgiving and have company arriving. LG contracts with a local company, who in turn subcontracts with another company. They guy arrives and fixes it in 15 minutes ... the connector to the board was bad from the factory (his assessment), he snips wire and puts on a new connector. So I just paid $400 for a .10 part!! Technician says LG have a lot of board problems.\n\nWe tried to get LG to compensate us, but customer support refers us to warranty, who refer us back to customer support. After about ten phone calls I gave up - maybe that was their intent all along. LG used to be a good brand, but based on this product, and my interactions with them, we could not recommend any LG brand.\n\nUpdate 4/2018 - broke again w F9 error, this time a main wire into the connector block (where main power comes into unit) melted and broke off! Looks like it got hot enough to melt some plastic - see photos!  LG should recall these ranges! I'm concerned it could catch fire! Shouldn't there be a fuse that should protect this from occurring?", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2496, "id": 189772, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 389, "len_tokens": 486, "text": "So... there's some good and bad with this device. I will end up returning it because of the bad, but it still may be for some people. Over all, however, I would recommend looking for a different product.\n\nThe good: I love the size. It's small and compact, perfect to lay down in a humidor corner (actually fit perfectly above some of my sticks and the box). Temperature is also accurate to 1 degree. Large numbers are easy to read. There is no back light, but since I do not check it in the dark this is also not an issue. Build seems decent, should hold up over time if used for what it is made for.\n\nThe bad: The hygrometer is off, way off. They say it will be within +-5 % of indoor humidity (which is common) but this is not even close. Using a Boveda calibration packet (sets an airtight container to a perfect humidity within .5 of what the bag says it will) and also placing another calibrated hygrometer in the same container I left it over night. After 24 hours I checked, my calibrated hygrometer read 74% (one off), this one read a shocking 60.8, so over 14% off. The next 24 hours my calibrated hygrometer would move between 74/75, this one ranged from 61 and at one point momentarily reached 63. This is considerably greater than what the box says.\n\nIt gets worse. Because it fluctuates even at a constant humidity, you can not just subtract a certain amount to get the correct amount (for example, if it read 70 for what should be 75, I could always subtract 5 and have an accurate reading). There is also no calibration option on this device.\n\nOverall: It gets two stars because it will tell you the temperature. For the price, however, you can find a cheaper thermometer. It WILL NOT accurately assess humidity in a controlled setting, so if you need it for a humidor (like me) or something that also requires accurate readings (musical equipment, I hear hatching eggs is also like this?) you are better off spending another $5 to get something you can at least calibrate. If you're just monitoring a room in your house for fun it may be worth it, as you don't have much to lose.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2497, "id": 261180, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 403, "len_tokens": 480, "text": "Ok.  The good and not so good:\n\nGood:\nGood price to performance - the fan is strong enough for me and it looks better then the price would lead you to believe.\n\nInstall - I had a somewhat difficult install because I had to make a new outlet, but in general this is an easy install.  If you have an existing power source, this thing can probably be installed in under an hour.  The mounting bracket and bracket for the exhaust are super easy to mount, and the hood mounts very easily to them.\n\nQuality - a little on the light side, but I like that because it makes it easier to mount.. some may think it's a little on the flimsy side.  I think it seems ok.\n\nBad:\n\nbeeping - the hood beeps loudly whenever you press a button,\n\nweirdness - the power button doesn't turn it on - it just turns it off.  You press the light button or one of the fan speed buttons to turn it on.. I thought this was kinda weird.\n\nThe vent cover - there are 2 sections to the vent cover  (that covers the actual vent).  It connects to the hood at the bottom and the top, not in the middle.  This doesn't look great as it can bulge a bit at the middle - it also doesn't connect to the wall other than the aforementioned points so there is a bit of a gap between the vent and the wall.\n\npower - this is more my mistake, so a word of caution to others.  I installed my new outlet centered, about 8 inches above the hood.  This is not a great position.  If you want to use the ducting, the plug will extend too much out and hit the ducting.  You can bend the ducting inward to accommodate - I just went without the ducting as I'm not venting externally - so I think the stainless steel enclosure with the filters will do what I need..  Alternatively, you can just cut the plug off and connect the wire in the wall and avoid the problem with the plug sticking out.  I might do that in the future.\n\nSo basically, this is a really good range hood for the price.  I'm happy with how it looks and functions.  I do wish there was a way to disable the beeping, but otherwise it's quite good.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2498, "id": 108224, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 398, "len_tokens": 465, "text": "This is a must have for every garage. I had a extra fridge in the garage that was just being used to store a stock pile of sodas. I felt it was time to start building a man cave, so the first order of business was to get a keg in there. I order this from amazon for about 150 bucks. I got it on Monday rather than the Friday that I had planed for. So the keg tapping party had to be put on hold till Monday. Getting c02 was a little harder than I thought; I couldn't find any where around here that was open that did c02, finally I just went down to my bosses bar and asked him for one. He was cool enough to provide me with a free keg and a c02 charge.\n\nInstallation was easy just a hold in the fridge, for this you have to have the right drill bit or you'll make a big mess. We went down to Ace hardware and picked up a 1 7/8 bit. Measured, marked and drilled. We magically managed to leave enough room for the tap handle to freely go under the freezer door when opened. This could of been a big problem. So remember to check the height of your tap and handle to make sure the freeze door clears. We stored cold glasses in the freezer so it was going to be opened and closed from time to time.\n\nAt first the beer was coming out with a lot of head. Then we found out that the regulator works backwards, so we were putting 60lbs into the keg at first. The lines held up and there was no leak. After figuring out how it works we set the pressure to 12 psi, still to much head. We called our bar up and asked them for the pressure and they told us 10. After that the beer was coming out pretty good.\n\nHere is one thing to note, the first beer is going to have the most head, this is because the tap has to be cooled. The next beer you pour is done right afterwards is going to be amazing. You want to get a thermometer and keep your keg around 36-42 degrees F.\n\nHere is a YouTube video of our keg before we figured out the pressure thing.\n/watch?v=nQyrpAnmu18", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2499, "id": 461828, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 331, "len_tokens": 407, "text": "I wish I'd seen these comments before I too - got cheated on the (NON) PERFORMANCE of this appliance. I had an old Thermador really superior downdraft vent at the time - that worked perfectly for 26 years. It raised to 12\" it had an EMPTY space between the top cap and front plates (not the stuppid little holes ) that perfectly accommodated the suction of smoke, smells and steam. I could not find anybody to dismantle it so that I can clean the bottom part of the unit (the inaccessible place where the vent detracted downward) which so many years later accumulated fat and was a fire hazard. I (WRONGLY) assumed that Thermador new downdrafts were even better. But no, this is the biggest piece of trash! It takes no smells or smoke or steam away. It makes such noise that you would think you are working next to the airplane engine. I also say SHAME ON YOU Thermador! Next time you make a new design of downdraft vent - get people that ACTUALLY COOK to help you with the design.\nAnother shameful thing Thermador does is that they sell you EXTERNAL BLOWER type of downdraft but force you to buy an extra piece at $150.00 in order to have that vent connected to the pipe taking smells to the external blower. Without it, no installation is possible. And if your sales person forgets to order that one extra piece AND YOU HAVE NO IDEA that you are missing a piece - then you get the blower, you get your cook top - you get a special installation crew - and then they discover you are missing a piece. No installation that day BUT you are charged for empty trip of the installation crew just the same. WHY ON EARTH IS THAT PIECE NOT A PART OF EXTERNAL DOWNDRAFT VENT????? Why? Because the big, classy Thermador wants to get more money on top of incredibly expensive and useless downdraft vent! Digusting!!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2500, "id": 97882, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 343, "len_tokens": 450, "text": "Updated November 2015\nAnother 6 month cycle of emptying morning and night; continues to work flawlessly.  Defrost every two months and it simply churns out ice. Very pleased with the machine.\n\nUpdated October 2014\n\nThis is the second spring/summer where the unit has run for ~6 months / 24x7 as we keep the ice bucket emptied.  To date, the unit simply churns out ice and we are very satisfied with the purchase.\n\nJuly 2013\n\nThis small profile, quiet machine has been in my utility room running 24x7 now for almost 30 days.  It easily fills it's ice bucket full twice in 24 hours with nice size crescent sized cubes.  The unit is meeting all my expectations.\n\nIn my utility room, I have a washer, dryer, large side/side fridge, large wine cellar and this ice maker.  The icemaker and wine cellar are front venting and do exhaust warm air. Don't be surprised by the temp in a small room going up a degree or so when this unit is installed.\n\nThe only unknown today is how reliable the little guy will be over the next few months / years.  I did purchase the Amazon/Assurant 3 Year / 360 Plan as I never buy appliance maintenance so this type of policy is a first for me.  I'll update as time goes on.\n\nI installed this unit myself and used professional grade water hose, brass connectors and attached an inline water filter.  The water we have here in the DFW area has high mineral content so I'm trying to take as much of that sediment out as possible.  The installation is simple and easy; just go to your local hardware (Lowes/Home Depot/TruValue) and buy the appropriate hose/connectors for an ice maker installation.  Use Teflon tape or plumbers putty and snug up the connectors.  No leaks, now or in the future!\n\nAs always, Amazon service was excellent and the unit was shipped by CompactAppliance.  The unit arrived ontime and in good condition.  Compact Appliance had double boxed the unit to assure safe delivery, a very nice touch.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2501, "id": 120907, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 392, "len_tokens": 475, "text": "We added the Whirlpool washer/dryer package when we bought our house in September 2011 and by the time December 2012 rolled around the 4950xw stopped working.  Just before it stopped working, in the middle of a wash cycle, it started making odd sounds like grinding gears and slipping belts.  Luckily the builder and Whirlpool gave us a two year warranty so we emailed and we waited.  Whirlpool contacted us first and instructed us to unplug the machine for about two minutes because it might just need to be reset and the operator also asked if we tried other troubleshooting.  It was only after being on the phone with Whirlpool for fifteen minutes that the operator made the service request when the blinking lid locked light did not reset.  A&E Factory Service contacted us and we again had to explain the problem and what was done to try to troubleshoot the problem.  The service technician came and upon examination of the washer he concluded the nut at the bottom of the machine that keeps the pulley in place was loose.  He also noted the belt had rubbed on the plastic shield which was the source of the slipping belt sounds.  So, he replaced the belt, tightened the nut and says he applied some Loctite on the nut to prevent this from happening again.\n\nLong story a little shorter, the sounds are back, the loads are taking longer and we're thinking about hauling this POC to the local dump and buy a new washer with an agitator and it won't be a Whirlpool!  While we decide we're going to email Whirlpool and set-up a service call because we have until Sep 2013 before the extended warranty expires.  From our experience with this machine if the loads are taking a long time to finish and it starts making grinding or squealing noises you might want to check the nut underneath the washing machine for tightness.  The pulley it keeps in place has gears that mesh with the gearcase so if the nut is loose the pulley isn't meshing with gearcase and the washer will not work correctly.  When it was working correctly for the past two months it seemed like a decent washer but now that we're having the same problem again, we're ready to dump it for something else.  Hope this review is helpful.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2502, "id": 402617, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 324, "len_tokens": 406, "text": "I am revising my previous review on this one. I purchased this 2/16/2017 and am only now realizing the full benefit it affords. Originally, I thought that this unit did not live up to expectations but after giving up on it I decided to give it another try. I'm glad I did.\n\nYou have to come up with a way to streamline the process using this machine.\n\nImportant factors to consider\n\nWhere will you put it?\nHow will you fill it?\nHow will you drain it?\nWhere will hang clothes to dry after spin?\n\nI keep mine in my bathtub and fill it from the tub's spout. It drains down the tub's drain.\nI have a drying rack that can be used indoors or out.\n\nDon't overfill the dryer. Put the heavier items on the bottom of the spinner.\n\nAfter draining water, clothes are still soapy. I keep unit set to \"drain\" and add more water to \"rinse\". I also will run clothes under tub's spout sometimes (if needed) to further rinse.\n\nDon't put delicate items in here. No knit sweaters etc.! Best for socks, underwear, etc. Caution putting items you can't live without or spent a fortune on in here.\n\nBetter to do small loads frequently than big loads occasionally.\n\nIt took me a while to figure out the nuances of the machine and to come up with a way to make it effective for me. Once I put a system in place and realized the machine's limits/benefits I found it to be much more helpful.\n\n\n\nOld review:\n\nHard to rinse soap out of clothes. Have to run several times with just water to try to remove soap. Still seems like soap still present in clothes. Spinner very aggressive. Stretches clothing out. Not good for anything delicate. Gave up. Back to laundromat. By the time you do several loads and hang up to dry laundromat quicker. Wanted to love but is just bleh.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2503, "id": 297226, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 342, "len_tokens": 429, "text": "Get ready to start washing dishes!  Except you will be doing it by hand.  Yes, we purchased one of these machines and it worked perfectly for all of 5 days.  Then an error code (LE) meaning water leak detected.  Ah, the fun begins.  Samsung customer rep asks me if I checked the water valve.  I reminded her the manual said to turn the circuit breaker off and call tech support.  Anyway, about 5 days later a service rep shows up who knows nothing about the machine.  But I did see the water valve.  You have to pull it out, dismantle a metal sheet and see something that you haven't a clue why you would want to look at it.  Folks, this is a bad machine and you will probably regret it immensely if you  buy it.  It might work for a day or a week or even a year, but when it stops working, you are out of luck.  Fortunately we are taking this one back to the store and getting something that routinely works.  But for those of you that can't help yourself, here are some answers to some questions you might have?\n\nQ: Does it have a heated drying system?  A: Not like we're used to.  You can sanitize and dry which gets the water up to 160 degrees and this works well for drying.\n\nQ:  Is it quiet? A:  Very quiet, that is until the repairman comes who doesn't know anything about the machine, then it will be a lot noisier except it still probably wont' work (go through a full cycle) so the noise won't last too long.\n\nQ:  Does it clean well? A: If you own this dishwasher, your dishes will probably be very clean because you'll be doing them by hand and since it has probably been a long time since you have done that, you won't mind spending the extra hours doing it while you are waiting for your machine to get fixed.\n\nDon't buy it, folks.  Seriously.  Don't buy it.  Get something that works.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2504, "id": 301167, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 430, "len_tokens": 491, "text": "So only 3 days in and we are in love with this machine. Before we purchased this washer we did alot of research and read tons of reviews. We were hesitant on buying this due to the amount of people saying it left there clothing damp or just plain wet. During our research we had stumbled upon people saying if our drain pipe was at the floor setting worked great. So before purchasing we added a new drain coming 2 inches you've the floor in the center of our cubby space for our washer. We also poured 3 1/2 inches of concrete to help level and support this unit. So far all clothing are coming out completely dry on just the normal settings, no extra spun out high spin, no extra dryer settings such as more dry, we do stay slightly below the max fill line that's indicated on the drum. Just the normal settings across the board. The real test came with washing and drying out super thick and heavy duty queen sized comforter. Again all settings on normal, came out clean and dry. We have two kids plus a child that's not ours living with my wife and I. And for these last 3 days this unit has had absolutely no problems with our demands. Total wash and dry times are roughly 2 1/2 hours long. The fact that we can throw in a load and folks then and put our clothing away as soon as the cycle is done is just amazing. Also the clothing is coming out alot cleaner than with the Frigidaire gallery series stand alone units we previously owned. Quality is fantastic, even down to the door hinge. Home is heavy duty steel. All in all we love this unit and would purchase again. Works like a dream with the way we set up the area where it sits, don't know how it works with the drain that was in the wall 2 1\\2 feet off the ground. It is important to note that spreading like clothing definitely helps with the drying process, shirts separate from jeans, towels separate and so on........ But yea so far absolutely dry clothing, nice and clean.. No complaints.. The only issue we have that we knew about is the point build up on rubber gasket and door. All we do is write it down with a damp paper towel before pulling out clothing. I really hope this reviews helps some one, just cause we almost passed this unit up based on the amount of iffy or bad reviews", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2505, "id": 54654, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 341, "len_tokens": 477, "text": "F.Y.I. Having had a problem with the door lock on my washer, I thought I'd post the fix here.\n\n*** NOTES ***\nA. When assembled, there is a \"white plastic tab\" at the bottom of the door latch assembly. This is evidently/presumably to get the door open if it is in the \"locked\"/door shut position. This did not apply/work as a fix for mine, since the was in the open position, so I am guessing at this. Give it a try if your door will not come open.\nB. The Model & Serial numbers are on a decal BEHIND the door. Bad news if you can't get it open, huh? College graduate decided where to put it. D-U-H! Record it someplace else for future reference.\n\nOn to the \"FIX\"!\n\nFIRST of all, It's probably NOT broken/bad.\n\nMy locking mechanism \"tripped\" shut WITH THE DOOR OPEN (unknown how it happened). This made the task a little bit easier to fix, door was open. No \"repair/replacement\" is needed.\n\n1. Unplug washer from outlet.\n2. Remove the two (2) screws in the rear/top corners from the top cover. Pull toward the rear and up to remove it. No need to even move the washer!\n3. Remove the two (2) screws from the front panel securing the door latch (behind the door).\n4. Remove the one (1) screw from the front panel securing the safety switch (behind the door).\n5. Disconnect the three (3) wiring disconnects from the switch.\n6. Remove entire assembly.\n7. CAREFULLY remove the black cover from the white body, so you do not positionally disturb anything inside.\n8. There is a metal \"teter-totter\" mechanism on the opposite end from the solenoid. To \"trip\" the lock back to the OPEN position, so the door can be closed: Push down on the furtherest end of the \"teter-totter\" mechanism from the solenoid. The lock will snap open. FIXED !\n9. I re-greased it where there was evidence of grease applied at the factory\n10. Re-assemble.\n\nHope this helps. Good Luck\nAny ???, dwright@insight.rr.com", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2506, "id": 228090, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 388, "len_tokens": 463, "text": "My husband does not enjoy it when I emasculate him, but sometimes I have no choice. Replacing the agitator dogs in the washer is one of those times. I'd noticed the washer wasn't cleaning as well, and I noticed the agitator wasn't moving the clothes around as well, put 2 and 2 together which sadly took longer than it should have, and I realized there was an agitator issue. I went to Google to research this and sure enough already on youtube were atleast 100 videos of men (always men for some reason) explaining what to look for when your washer isn't agitating correctly and how to fix it. After watching a few I realized not all washers are the same, one video showed how the washer has to be turned on it's back and a motor removed just to fix this issue, but perhaps those are fancy high priced rich people washers. I own a used top load washer like most poor people who proclaim they will refuse to buy a washer that requires a technician to install and can wash 3 king sized comforters. I then decided to narrow my search to my specific washer model which must be very common because I found a video that showed my model and how to fix it. It looked so easy, the video had step by step instructions, I had a screw driver, this was going to be easy as cake. Then it came to finding the $5 part, the agitator dogs which I will call \"dawgs\" it just sounds better that way. Don't go to Lowe's or Home Depot, they sell the washers that use the dawgs, but they don't actually sell the parts that they know will break eventually and are easy peasey to replace, nope. You may be able to find them at a super hardware store, they kind that employs really old men who know how to fix everything, but the one near me burned to the ground and has yet to reopen. So I went to Amazon and found exactly what I needed. While my husband played a video game I went out in the garage to the washer and removed the broken dawgs and replaced them with the new ones, it took less than 10  minutes. Now my husband's underwear gets clean.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2507, "id": 296598, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 300, "len_tokens": 421, "text": "Let me start of with \"WOW\"!  Our family of 5 - (Three of us full time and two more on weekends) has been apartment living without a dishwasher now for 5 years.  We do not have cupboard room in our current apartment for a built-in unit.  About 4 years ago, we considered a portable dishwasher on wheels but determined that we really didn't have the space for the large wheel-a-round.\n\nWhile looking for a portable clothes washer, I stumbled onto Countertop Dishwashers.  My husband and I did a lot of research before we decided on the SPT brand.  The unit arrived a few days ago and I am so AMAZED.  I've put the washer through every test I can think of from delicate barware to saucepans and it has washed everything perfectly.  We are using the Cascade Platinum gel pacs and have found they work very well.\n\nWe are very conscious about electricity usage and I was unsure what this would cost.  I plugged it into our \"Kill-A-Watt\" usage meter to track actual use.  Our Edison rate is .25 per Kwh.\n\nOur Per Load Power Cost\nHeavy -  $0.10\nNormal - $0.09\nLight - $0.07\nGlass - $0.07\nSpeed - $0.06\nSoak - $0.01\n\nThe manufacturer states the water usage is:\n\nHeavy -  3.83 gal\nNormal - 3.17 gal\nLight - 3.17 gal\nGlass - 2.56 gal\nSpeed - 3.17 gal\nSoak -  .66 gal\n\nAgain - I have to say I'm AMAZED at this dishwasher.  Not only does it do a wonderful job, it is going to save me money because the electricity costs are low and the water usage considerably less than hand washing and rinsing.\n\nUpdate:  I have found that with our family of four kids,  Our cost per month is calculated at $5.05 for the dishwasher.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2508, "id": 463011, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 337, "len_tokens": 405, "text": "I bought this device to clean the vent duct from our clothes dryer, which had not been cleaned since its installation several years ago. My ductwork is 16 feet long and 4 inches diameter with several bends. It's stiff aluminum with accordion corner pieces, all held together with aluminum duct tape. The duct cleaning system has no breakable plastic parts - only the reel cover and crank handle are plastic, and those are not likely to break. I have written a complete report on my website (A Journey through the Kingdom of Lint,[...]/) but here are a few key points: (1) I first cleaned with a smaller brush, then finished with a larger brush; (2) if you crank as you push the brush in, the cable will kink - it's better to push it in, then crank as you pull it back out, to scrub lint from the walls; (3) I was able to push the brush past the 45 degree bends but not a 90 degree bend - I wound up removing the tape at the 90 degree corner and cleaning the parts on either side separately; (4) I had to buy a roll of aluminum duct tape (required by code - it's fireproof) from the hardware store to re-assemble the ducting - it was not expensive; (5) there is no point in using a power drill to spin the brush - you have more control turning it manually; (6) it's helpful to have another person's hands at some points - the reel housing is light weight and wants to walk around while you are trying to maneuver the brush and the cable; (7) I got an IMMENSE amount of lint out of the duct, really surprising since there was no evident blockage and since we clean the lint filter after every use; (8) this is a sturdy, well designed product with a box that holds it well between uses and with all necessary tools provided.\nI hope this review helps your own do-it-yourself project!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2509, "id": 88107, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2510, "id": 108292, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 356, "len_tokens": 410, "text": "I am very impressed with this product. If your dryer airflow needs a boost, this is for you. Install it and forget about it.\n\nMy exhaust ducting is about 24' with several 90 degree turns, making it effectively almost 50'. My poor dryer didn't stand a chance and would keep tripping the over-temperature thermostat. I tried brushing out the entire duct with no luck. Adding this booster makes my dryer complete a cycle in half the time with clothes that are actually dry!\n\nI decided to mount this upside-down at a slight angle, removing the feet. This allowed me to connect the output directly into the wall port and aim the input toward my dryer. I used a 90 degree sheet metal elbow and a flexible aluminum duct to connect the dryer to the booster. Since the booster was not quite perpendicular to the floor, I removed the pressure sensor box and mounted it to the wall. The pressure sensor hose just sits in the high pressure input of the pressure sensor box and was looser than I wanted. I put some gas thread tape on it to get it to be a little snugger.\n\nI had terrific responses from my pre-purchase e-mail query and my during-installation phone call. The owner is friendly and sharp.\n\nOne possible design improvement would be to have the AC input box sit on the side so that installations like mine would be able to have the dryer sit back a couple more inches.\n\nAfter installation and adjusting the pressure sensitivity, the booster comes on whenever the dryer is on and shuts off right when the dryer does. It is louder than without it, but not annoyingly so. It is enough to know when it is on or off. I ran my dryer without heat and used my duct brush to remove the lint that was built up. It \"snowed\" during much of the process.\n\nIn addition to drying clothes better and faster, I think this product will pay for itself by reducing wear on my dryer. I highly recommend it if your exhaust duct is more than 10' or so.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2511, "id": 50857, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 333, "len_tokens": 407, "text": "We purchased Bosh SHX98M09UC a little over a year ago.  Advantages: it is indeed extremely quiet. Disadvantages: everything else, starting with the quality of its main job. In our view, dishwashers are made to wash dishes. Almost by definition, the dishes we put in are dirty. When we take them out and they are still dirty, something is very wrong. When we called the technician the first time, he found a piece of a bone in the engine. Shouldn't the filter block any pieces of food large enough to damage the engine? The second time there was no damage, just the nozzles got clogged with food particles. He advised us to rinse thoroughly all the dishes before putting them in. We do, and so far the dishwasher still works, even if the results are mediocre. But what good is the dishwasher if we have to wash the dishes manually before putting them in?\nThe dishwasher is praised by Consumer Reports for its water conservation. As the salesman explained to us, it uses less water because it alternates between upper and lower racks. Which may explain why the wash times are so long. I doubt however, if we do conserve any water overall when the dish pre-rinsing is included. And less water means it gets dirtier, which often leave smudges on the dishes. Poor drying was mentioned elsewhere, but at least it does not \"bake\" the smudges in. It may require another manual rinsing though. I think we would be much better off - also from ecological point of view - if the dishwasher uses more water and does the job right.\nThere is also a number of other little irritating glitches. Touch controls are inconveniently located and not very reliable. Racks are too tightly spaced for bowls. Rack fasteners are small plastic pieces that can easily fall out and get lost (beware if you have small children!). I would forget these issue if the dishes are washed right. But they are not!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2512, "id": 54686, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 329, "len_tokens": 499, "text": "HOW MANY\nYou probably need more than you think.  My dishwaster took about 120 tine caps.\n\nWHAT FOR\nThe most important reason to use the tine caps is to protect your dishes from scratches.  Sure, they also protect the tines from rust--but the ends of the tines are not where the important rust happens.\n\nINSTALLING\n> If you don't use glue, then soaking the caps in hot water makes it easier.\n> Even better, apply a little Household Goop&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Amazing-Goop-All-Purpose-Household-Goop-3-7-Ounce-Tube-130012/dp/B0000A605I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Amazing Goop All-Purpose Household Goop, 3.7-Ounce Tube #130012</a>&nbsp;to the tip of the tine, then slide the cap on---the fresh goop acts a lubricant and makes the caps easier to install; when it hardens, it holds the tips securely in place.\n\nGLUEING THEM ON\nIf you don't glue them in place when you install them, the first several times you run the dishwasher, you'll find one or two loose caps on the filter screen.  Check to see if any are half-off, if so push them back down. After about a week, they will tighten up on their own.\n\nOTHER RUST PREVENTION\nExamine your dishwasher basket frequently for signs of rust.  Apply dabs of Household Goop on the smallest rust spots as soon as you see them.\n\nCAUTION\nThere is a product called \"Uber GOOP\" which is optionally sold in kits with rack-tines.  I've purchased it (but not used it), and as far as I can tell, it's just enamel paint in a small container---it probably works fairly well if are very fastidious at getting at the very first signs of rust and/or prepare the surface  well---but I don't think that it is as effective as Household Goop, because a thin layer of paint it would not be as effective as a thick layer of cushioning glue in resisting the impact or rubbing of plates rattling around.\n\n> Click on Stoney just below the product title to see my other reviews, or leave a comment to ask a question.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2513, "id": 56968, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2514, "id": 187873, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 371, "len_tokens": 480, "text": "Our 23 year old Kenmore gas dryer stopped working three days ago.  The dryer was made by Whirlpool.\n\nUnplug the dryer first before testing the components...\n\nI checked the fuse in the back after removing the back panel.  That was fine.  I pulled off the dryer bottom panel and removed the one screw holding the Flame Sensor.  I removed the Flame Sensor and tested the continuity with a multimeter.  No reading.  That indicated the Flame Sensor was shot as it should show a reading when cold.\n\nYou can test the dryer while the Flame Sensor is removed.  First separate the two flame sensor wires a few inches.  Plug the dryer back in and close the door.  If you press the start button, nothing will happen with the removed Flame Sensor.  Touch the two wires that go to the flame sensor together.  The ignitor will glow red hot within seconds.  When it is red, remove the wires a few inches from each other.  The gas will turn on and the dryer will heat like it works.  DON'T RUN THE DRYER LIKE THIS.  It's not safe to have two exposed wires in an appliance that vibrates.  This is just to check it to see if it the ignitor is ok. the gas turns on and ignites in the burner tube.  Basically we are confirming all the other parts are aok.  Shut the dryer off and unplug it until you replace the flame sensor.\n\nI got this part in two days with Amazon prime and it took 5 minutes to replace.  My dryer is good as new for $15.\n\nFix old gas dryers...don't get rid of them because you are dazzled by electronic read outs or anti-wrinkle features.  The new dryers with more elaborate electronics/circuit boards all fail in 1/2 the time.  My Jenn-aire range that is 15 years old I have replaced the clock 2x and the main circuit board/controller due to leaking capacitors, etc.  Old gas dryers are simple and built to last.  A time dial, start button, and a buzzer when it's done.  Not many parts to break down!\n\nUPDATE: February 2016-  Our gas dryer is now over 25 years old and has worked perfectly since I replaced the Flame Sensor.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2515, "id": 260802, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 413, "len_tokens": 481, "text": "I am not one to write reviews, but seeing as I read them when researching products, I felt strongly enough about this vent to write one! We completely remodeled our kitchen about 6 months ago, and were shocked to see the ridiculous price tags on hood vents, which are basically just a small electric fan. Not to mention the fact that the big box stores didn't even carry hood vents that would provide enough air flow to remove odors and moisture from your kitchen on even the highest setting! I had my heart set on a nice wall mounted stainless vent with chimney, but was not about to pay over $1000 for something that barely vented. I am an avid cook and purchased a pretty high powered gas range, and needed something to really move air/moisture/heat out of our kitchen. Read the reviews on this one and thought for the money it was worth a shot. Probably one of my favorite appliances in the kitchen besides the new gas range! This vent looks really great, but better yet, will absolutely remove all the cooking odors and moisture out! I loved one review I read about this hood vent \"sucking the hat off your head if you walked by\"! It is true! I rarely use any setting other than low-even when boiling huge pots of water with tons of steam! Love that the baffles are removed easily and dishwasher safe. The lights get a bit hotter than I would like, but they light up the back of my stove really nicely for cooking. Some reviewers complained about lighting, but if you do your homework and are remodeling, the key to any kitchen is adding tons of lighting. A hood vent is not designed to light up your kitchen, but this one is perfect for lighting up the back of our stove as that area can be shadowy even with well placed overhead lighting. I would recommend ths vent highly to anyone who does lots of cooking, and wants a great product that will protect their home by actually removing moisture and odors. I do believe you can use this as a recirculating fan, but if you know anything about home building or maintenance, you would never install a recirculating vent that only moves the odors and moisture around your kitchen! Love this product! Looks great, moves tons of air. Didn't really come with instructions, but if you're somewhat handy, you'll figure it out quickly!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2516, "id": 87883, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2517, "id": 498746, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 385, "len_tokens": 445, "text": "Purchased this item to fix my late 90's Maytag Neptune MAH3000AWW washer.\n\nThe problem I was having was the motor after 15 years had begun to \"Growl\" and would not spin the washer tub. I guess from reading on the internet it is a miracle that the original motor and control board lasted as long as they did as there apparently were design issues with one or both.\n\nThis installation was straight forward and easy. I am not the Maytag repairman but I am handy with tools when I need to be. I had this removal and installation done in under an hour. Though I have had this machine apart a couple of times for replacing tub bearings, the pump and I also replaced preemptively the wax motor, so my knowledge of how it is taken apart probably speed-ed up the process.\n\nThe instructions for the install are okay, not the best and not the worst. In my kit there is a \"jumper\" 2 white connectors and 2 wires (black and white) between them. Neither end was connected. The instructions say to connect the blue connector from the main harness (the one not being replaced) to the white connector on the new Control board which does not fit, but one end does fit that mysterious jumper, and the other end of that jumper does fit the control board and the picture given does try to depict that as well just not in the most clear manner.\n\nSo if you are having motor growling and the tub isn't spinning and the washer just quits with out finishing the cycle (mine would be toward the end of the cycle initially but it slowly got earlier as it worsened), take the back panel off, slide off the belt and see if your motor growls (try and run it through a cycle), it should not. If you spin the motor by hand there shouldn't be any rattle to the motor, if it does this will fix the problem.\n\nIt is common for the motor to cause the control board to burn out as well (mine did not). But this is a new motor design and it comes with a new control board for that new design. So you replace them as a set.\n\nHope this helps you out!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2518, "id": 87939, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2519, "id": 88643, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2520, "id": 49271, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 330, "len_tokens": 424, "text": "I replaced a 1970's fan that just blew in my face with this unit, and ducted it outside.  Installation was mostly easy if you're replacing a similar size unit and handy with basic tools.\n\nLights are fantastic. I used 50w PAR20 halogens I think, and while they are hot, the 2 light setting is enough, and 3 is like sunshine (used when I use the stovetop for a prep area).  When they burn out, I plan to replace with LEDs at about $20 a pop (halogens were $4-5 each).  I've had these halogens in for 2 years, using them daily almost, and they're still kicking.\n\nBuild quality is good.  Easy to clean.  First speed is unnoticable, noise wise. 2nd speed you can hear it if you don't have anything else going on in the kitchen.. 3rd speed is noticeably loud - like I wouldnt leave it on while watching our small TV in the kitchen.\nThat said, I use the 3rd speed to clear out smoke, cooking bacon, and stiryfry'in.  That's it.  #2 speed is plenty for a has range and most uses.\n\nOnly complaint that I barely think is a complaint is the automatic turn-on to high speed fan when it detects high temperature.  Some folks seem to find this annoying and think it comes on way too much, I've only ever, ever, ever, had it come on when I forgot about something on the range and it started smoking and got hot, or I leave a burner on without a pot atop it. The 4 or 5 times this has happened in the last 2 years I am happy it came on - because it reminded me to go turn something off.  Maybe the sensor is quirky for some folks or mine is quirky - but I can't imagine cooking as much as I do at super hot gas temps (woks, heating salt block, etc) I wouldnt have been annoyed if it was really too eager.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2521, "id": 220571, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 408, "len_tokens": 478, "text": "In a moment urgency I needed a frig that would fit in the 5th wheel trailer and would be of good looks and lasting quality within hours of the frig that went out. The frig that went out ran on electricity and ammonia or propane gas which is the standard for motorhomes and trailers. They are super expensive for their size and short on endurance. I wanted to replace it with a good old fashion electric frig. To even repair the broken frig it have cost close to a $1,000 which had a ammonia leak causing me to have to move my tenant out immediately and leaving me the task of cutting up the frig to even get it out of the trailer door. (they built the trailer around the frig...??)\nI looked at a lot of apartment size frigs' which would have cost about $1,500 and weren't narrow enough to fit through the door or fit in the existing space.\nI went to Amazon and saw this frig for $379.00 on sale from $699.00. Dimensions were exactly the right size\nand had free shipping.\nOrdered it right away.\nIt showed up 3 days ahead of schedule! Before I even unpacked I knew I had a good quality product...How? This thing was packaged to withstand being dropped from an aircraft. Wow, By the time I got through 2 layers of box containers and 2 layers of foam and plastic protection I finally got to see what I purchased. Any company that would spend this much money and time on a  shipping container and other protection for the product must be proud of what they built.\nThe frig looked great, modern looking and inside had a lot more space than I ever imagined.\nFit through the door, a truly memorable moment and then installed it, plugged it in and was up to operating temperature in about an half hour.\nTime will tell on operating quality but I suspect I got a pretty good product.\nAnd as always Amazon was top notch in the ease of ordering, the shipping and and followup on the order.\nThe tenant was really pleased on the looks and room inside the frig also. He was amazed how fast I got the frig also, I didn't tell them how much I paid. The packing container and shipping were worth the entire purchase but those 2 things were FREE!\nThanks for being here Amazon,", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2522, "id": 560450, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 318, "len_tokens": 409, "text": "I will never...I repeat, NEVER buy any LG appliance again. The top-loading HE washer I bought 2 years ago (Model WT4870C) has been nothing but a disappointment.  To call it a piece of junk would be an insult to junk.  And LG customer service is terrible!  Don't think you will get any sympathy or help from the company. They've got your money, and that's all they care about.  Apparently, quality means nothing to them.  First of all, the area around the bleach dispenser rusted.  Do you want rust on your clothes? Me either.  That's why I called customer service.  Instead of agreement that rust in a washing machine is not acceptable, I was told, \"If liquid gets on the metal, it can rust.\"  Really? Then why does it say to put liquid bleach there (in the dispenser!) if no liquid is supposed to touch it? And besides, in their opinion, the rust \"is a cosmetic issue.\"  When I complained that rust can ruin clothes, they told me that I could send them my damaged clothes, and they would review them, and \"possibly\" issue some compensation FOR THE CLOTHES!  Now, only 2 years in to owning this washer, it breaks!  I cannot use it at all!  It was running when suddenly a terrible noise was heard coming from it (not the normal terrible noises it usually makes), and the tub could not stop.  Natural frictional force caused it to finally come to a stop. But now it cannot spin at all.  Even though the washer displays proudly on the front a \"10-year warranty,\" that only covers the motor.  And guess what:  You have to pay for a technician to come out to determine whether it is the motor or not.  So you are out a service charge no matter what!  (Oh, and even if it is the motor, you still have to pay labor charges out of pocket.)", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2523, "id": 185029, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 361, "len_tokens": 445, "text": "I purchased Speed Queen model AWN542s and it was installed today. I've been doing loads and loads of laundry all day. I am so impressed with this machine. I've owned a lot of washers by various companies over the years but this washer in just 1 day of operation, shines in it's performance and I'm not easily won over by things.\n\nThe stainless steel tub is beautiful and there's lots of room to hold heavy quilts which I own and wash every now and then. The washer itself looks small from the outside but when you look inside...the tub is large.\n\nI love the no-nonsense knobs on top and how Speed Queen has been designed and constructed (in America!)past owners say they last aprox 20+ years*. This machine does NOT use electronic motherboards which have been failing in numbers with other brands. The warranty is 5 years motor,etc. and then 10 years on transmission...which seems rare today. Most of the brands I researched had 1 yr warranties.\n\nThere is a lot of info on the specs, mechanics,etc. on Speed Queen's official website for anyone wanting to research a new washer or dryer.\n*\n[...]\n\nTestimonials of Speed Queen appliances are significantly positive all over the web and even here on Amazon.\n\nI have used all cycles today putting them thru the paces and all have operated beautifully. The 710 rpm's wrings everything out so well...the drying time is shorter. I am including heavy towels, which are the hardest to get all the water out in the spin cycle. I believe that Speed Queen has the highest RPM's of all brands.\n\nI don't think you can buy a better washer for the money. I spent aprox 5 hrs. researching all the brands, complaints, compliments, etc. and the clear choice for me, came down to Speed Queen. It's the Mercedes of washers but priced reasonably imo thanks to the built-to-last mission of Speed Queen.\n\nI'm happy to find a product that finally lives up to it's reputation and is worth every penny which is rare today with the; paltry 1 yr warranties,products too expensive to repair so, throw-it-away society.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2524, "id": 38299, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 396, "len_tokens": 475, "text": "1 year and still going strong. Love having beer on tap and this unit fit right behind my bar. Friends love it too. If you get 1/6 or 1/4 kegs (this unit takes up to 1/2 keg) you still have room for mixers and sodas as well. So far I've only had to have my CO2 tank refilled once, and that was probably because I inadvertently had the output turned too high at first. I get a new 1/6 keg about once every couple months (of course this depends on your drinking habits). Keeps things cold but does require the occasional defrost depending on how cold you keep it.\n\nOn side note and per the manufacturer directions, you need to let this sit for a couple day before plugging it in and using it. If its been put on it;s side at anytime during shipping or storage (which is a very good chance it has) it needs to sit an allow the compressor oil to drain back down into the reservoir. Failure to do so could result in your compressor prematurely burning out.\n\nUpdate: Going on two years now and still going strong. I also notice a lot of people commenting of foam issues. I have figured out how get a perfect draft every time.\n\nThe trick is to only open the co2 tank valve literally like 1/4 turn, no more. Turn the PSI adjust almost all the way down, drain off excess co2 by pulling the release valve. Then draft a little beer in a glass. If the foam is too much, then wait a day or two. It should subside, and in fact not be enough to adequately draft a glass of beer (no pressure). Now start turning up the PSI adjust. Only like half a turn to start. Check your draft, turn up a little more, check again, repeat as necessary. Once you get the pressure up to start dispensing beer but with not that much head, you should be good. Give it another day (after the pressure has built up) and adjust again as necessary. I've used this method since I've had my kegerator (going on two years now) and get a perfect draft every time. Also keep in mind the type of beer also makes a difference in what pressure is needed and the kind of head you'll get.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2525, "id": 404451, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 337, "len_tokens": 406, "text": "When this ice maker first arrived, it looked great, was very quiet, and did an excellent job of making ice cubes. However, soon after, it started getting louder, and louder, and louder, and then at 5 months, it failed. Died. Well, one of the features that made me purchase this one over many other similar ones, was that it had a 1 year manufacturer warranty. I also purchased an extended warranty, for beyond that. The manufacturer warranty has a phone number to contact for warranty service. When I called the number, it was the seller's number. They said that I needed to contact the manufacturer, who is in China, and the only method is by email. So I went to the manufacturer's website and used their contact email to send them the information of the product early failure and how to get warranty service. I waited. Two weeks, still no reply. I tried to call back the distributor, but no one answered the phone, and so I emailed them asking for their help since their phone number was the number to contact on the written warranty. They replied promptly, but all they said was that I needed to email the manufacturer. So, clearly, the one year manufacturer warranty is no good if they refuse to reply. I don't know what to do, but I'm very angry with this lack of response for warranty service from both the manufacturer, Della USA, and the seller. My recommendation? DO NOT BUY THIS PRODUCT! I'm telling you this so that you won't have to get \"stuck\" like I did. Unfortunately, all of these ice makers are made in China, and they work great at first, but don't expect them to last. My first one did last a little over a year before it failed (different brand), but to me, I don't purchase this product to be replacing it every year! I will not buy another one. Too bad, because I really liked the convenience of this chewable ice, when it worked.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2526, "id": 485057, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 350, "len_tokens": 424, "text": "My apartment was being renovated and one of the perks was supposed to be BRAND NEW appliances! Well, they picked the absolute worst of the worst in all of them. And not even the cheapest.\n\nThe oven exhaust is in the top left burner and gets hotter than any other exhaust I've ever encountered. I've burnt my fingers and completely melted a Tupperware by simply touching this burner while the oven was at 350F. Let me be clear: the burner itself was NOT on.\n\nThe storage bin beneath the oven seems like it was made from soda-can-thickness tin. It's SO flimsy. It's not even on proper tracks, it's got 2 little plastic \"guides\" that don't guide anything. It's constantly coming off the \"track\" and it takes quite a bit of wrestling to push it back in or pull it out. And while you're wrestling with it, all your pans will fall out the back, under the oven, because the wall at the back is about half the height of the front of the drawer.\n\nThe control panel at the back (let me just say that almost all the ovens I've previously owned have had backsplash control panels, so I'm familiar) is strangely positioned. It's too close to the back burners and the lip overhangs enough that if you have a pot or pan on the back burner you're likely to either have to wedge the lid under the lip of the control panel or have the whole pot/pan slightly off the burner to accommodate the pan/pot and lid.\n\nThe controls are not intuitively lined up with what burner they control, so you have to check and double-check that you've turned on the correct burner.\n\nThere's no volume control for the oven signal. Small thing, but other models with similar set-ups have this feature. The microwave that goes with this range has almost the same control systems and it DOES have a volume control.\n\nI guess this oven is OK if you're just occasionally heating up a frozen pizza, but for daily use it will drive you MAD.\n\nI HATE it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2527, "id": 471976, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 336, "len_tokens": 440, "text": "Not only is the Energy Star Qualified (equiv to CEE Tier 1), this washer is CEE Tier 3.  These standards cover both durability and efficiency so I expect a long life >15years. There are more efficient residential washing machines, that may clean better (one steam cleans), but residential washers generally don't endure heavy use for 15 years.  From all the hype about how well this machine cleans,\n\nLab tests \"performed in an approved testing facility to the American Home Appliance Manufacturers (AHAM) HLW1-2006 laundry industry standard, concluded that the washer achieves superior cleaning performance, while  providing outstanding energy savings. No other commercial single-load high-efficiency machine cleans better.\"\n\nI hoped everyone in my boarding house would see the difference achieving clean results that had required hot water while washing with only cold.  This is NOT the case.  I would say it cleans slightly better than our 25 year old top loader machines, using only 12.4gal of water and 0.054kWh rather than 39gal and 1.4kWh.  I have yet to run a hot wash load. Even using hot water this costs us 11/load at most, rather than 44 to 49/load with our old machine.  The biggest advantage is less wear and tear on our clothes.  The cleaning to damaging ratio is much better.\n\nProgram options: One can charge extra for supercycle, OR set separate prices for hot warm and cold.  One apparently can't choose to offer supercycle while charging more for hot wash loads according to the directions provided.\n\nLost socks, necklaces and such all seem to be found conveniently in the folds of the front gasket just inside the machines front door.  Get used to checking there.\n\nAlso get used to reminding people to LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN between uses so the water tight 3.2 cubic foot washing chamber can dry rather than growing smelly bacteria.  If one washes cloth soaked in solvents like gasoline, that tends to damage the rubber-like gasket of front load washing machines. There is no other reason to use a top loading machine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2528, "id": 232037, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 397, "len_tokens": 485, "text": "If you fridge door won't close all the way or on a side-by-side freezer/fridge this is the item to buy.\nSearch using the words \"door closer kit.\"\nI spent a lot of time searching door cams, gaskets and about a half dozen other words until giving up and calling customer service.\nThe beauty of this item is that it contains 2 different styles of upper and lower door cams that in my estimation, one of them will fit every fridge made regardless of brand. I have a Whirlpoool model ED5KVEXVQ00 and they fit and the door now shuts on it's own.\nAlso, buying the kit is a helluva lot cheaper than buying the cams individually.\nI installed it myself.\nCouple of tips from my experience: lubricate the cams with dielectric grease. The cams have teeth that fit into each other and grease allows for better movement and prevents quicker deterioration.\nSecond: take the salad dressing and grape jelly out of the shelves of the fridge if you do, like I had to, take both doors completely off. Less weight to move and less mess to clean up when one of the shelf items falls to the tile and breaks...and it will, no matter how careful you are.\n\nCommon tools are required: flathead screw driver , 5/16 socket and ratchet & that's about it.\nAnother tip: while you're at it, push that fridge away from the wall. In the back, take off the 5 or 6 screws that hold the flimsy piece of cardboard (in my case) that protect the motor and fan. Take the long wand of your vacuum cleaner and vacuum all the dust/grime/pet hair that had built up on the coils, motor, fan, everything back under there. You'll be shocked how dirty and disgusting it is.\nThis will prevent early motor/fan failure or that horrible noise that comes from the fan/motor when the dust has accumulated for years and prevents them from operating properly (in my case).\nThere are plenty of YouTube videos that will walk you through the repair step by step. I'm not a handyman by any means and it took me about 45 minutes and I saved a dollar by not having to call someone out to do it.\nMakes you feel like a man too, to complete a repair that before seemed way out of your league. (In my case).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2529, "id": 508358, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 231, "len_tokens": 403, "text": "We had a subzero built-in refrigerator that needed to be replaced.  The replacement 30\" from subzero was quoted at over $8.5k by a local big-box appliance store, and their \"less\" expensive options in the 30\" category from bosh, thermador, and GE Monogram were roughly $6.5k.  Exasperated at spending at least $6.5k on what is truly a tiny galley fridge, we were fortunate to find the Liebherr CS1660 at a local builders outlet&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Liebherr-15-5-Cu-Ft-Panel-Ready-Freestanding-Counter-Depth-Bottom-Freezer-Refrigerator-CS1660/dp/B003CV4SG6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Liebherr 15.5 Cu. Ft. Panel Ready Freestanding Counter Depth Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - CS1660</a>&nbsp;for $4.5k new and ended up purchasing a roughly 1 year old floor model for $2.5k.  We've now had the Liebherr for a couple of years with no problems.  Attractive stainless steel exterior and well lit interior, extremely quiet (far quieter than our subzero), easily fit into narrow / shallow space of built-in cabinetry in a galley style kitchen, and of course much cheaper than all other options.  Only minor complaint is that relative to our former subzero which had all the compressor parts on top (with usable interior space below it) the Liebherr has the compressor at the bottom in the back (with interior space extending above it) - thus, the usable interior storage space extends much higher on the Liebherr than it did on our Subzero with the top shelf in the Liebherr being difficult for a short person to reach.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2530, "id": 345616, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 387, "len_tokens": 434, "text": "There seem to be a lot of negative reviews that have strangely different complaints but one thing in common: They wanted a \"PUR\" filter. I wonder if this may be a purely psychological issue; those who expected a PUR filter were disappointed in what they received and looked for something wrong with it. The truth is that this is still a PUR filter. In fact, if you check out the picture of the item right here on the Amazon product page, you will see that on the right side of the box near the bottom is the PUR logo. If you \"need\" a PUR filter, this is it.\n\nI've had no problems with this filter at all after using it for about 4 weeks now. I will mention that I am careful to follow the instructions and flush enough water through the filter initially. If you haven't flushed enough water then any taste issues may be due to that, so perhaps try flushing more water through. The water from my filter tastes exactly the same as it did with the previous version of this filter. I drink several glasses every day and it tastes exactly the same. No one else in my household even noticed that we used a different filter than before. We had several visitors for 4th of July weekend and since we live in the scorching hot desert, we went through at least a few gallons of water through their stay and we actually got comments about how nice and clean it tastes.\n\nI will agree with those who complain that the price is getting outrageous. I am bothered that the price has gotten so high. Currently it is about $7 per month to use this filter, and I would definitely spend more than that buying bottled water. I'm not claiming that the price is great, just trying to be pragmatic about something that is as confusingly controversial as a water filter!\n\nOverall I would recommend this as an \"upgrade\" of the previous version since it removes a significantly higher number of contaminants compared to the last version. Seeing as how there's not an option to buy the previous version, the water still tastes great, and the price is still practical compared to the alternative, purchasing this is a good choice in my opinion.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2531, "id": 399488, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 417, "len_tokens": 482, "text": "Ok so ill do my best here. Got it today, came home opened it up. So started with a load of 28 xl boxers, 8 pairs of my underwear boy short type, and 4 bras, and 3 pairs of my socks and 1 pair of mens socks. That did good and only filled half way. Wanted to make sure it worked and didn't leak. Hung that up and noticed in our apartment that it may spin water out very well will take a full day to dry inside. Then, did 2 pairs of jeans with 2 leggin pants and 2 leggin capris and the spin side takes 1 pair of jeans of mens and then took my 4 pairs of leggings fine no issues. Drain pump is awesome. Very short wish it was way longer but itll work. Plug in chord not even long enough ill go get an extension chord. Quater size detergent is plenty then for me working in a smokers home i do nurse stuff so i used a little extra softner due to smell otherwise not much is needed. Then the last load i did was 8 extra large tshirts and 4 fit perfect in spinner.  Like the machine so far. The only thing i dislike is the length of chords and tubes. Also the water inlet is fine however the hose it comes with must not fit tight and leaks water all over so i have to put the hose directly into machine which is fine.  But so far love it. I did order a dryer because i don't want clothes hanging around just don't have it yet. So i guess random things now, if you have pets hair will not come out so know that because human hair does no issue but pet hair nope my pants are covered with it. Also i noticed for me needing to get smoke smell out i use more softner you will need to drain and fill again just to do a clean rinse that can be a quick 5 min cycle. So no biggy for me. Other then that i ordered a dolly to push it around and love that idea a lot. So if things happen ill update but i don't know how to make videos that can explain the use without it being probably 30 mins long so ill try to if i can.  Well its worth it and the pump drain is awesome feature.  Just make tubes and chords longer please.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2532, "id": 88147, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2533, "id": 12080, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 401, "len_tokens": 476, "text": "If you're looking for a 6 burner gas range that's well designed, good looking and reasonably priced, this is it!  I purchased one of these Premier Pro stainless steel ranges 5 months ago for a newly renovated kitchen at our retreat center where we use it occasionally to prepare large meals for groups.  Ours is running on LP gas and I had it shipped cross country and installed it myself.  It arrived with some minor shipping damage that I failed to notice before signing for the range (the frame was slightly bent but luckily I was able to bend it back into position so that everything fit together properly).  The instillation took a couple of hours but it all went pretty smoothly.\n\nIf you're located in an area where electric power could be unreliable or if you're using SOLAR ELECTRIC POWER, THIS IS THE RANGE FOR YOU!  Both the oven and the cooktop can be operated without electricity (lit with a match and there's no power wasting \"glowbar\" in the oven), so if you have gas, it will cook.  The oven is particularly nice, plenty of space, even temperature distribution, and it has a pretty accurate temperature control.  The top burners have a somewhat limited range of heat output; even when set on their lowest setting they tend to put out too much heat to simmer something in a small pan or too little heat to bring a large pot of water to a boil when you're in a hurry.\n\nThis range looks great and I am very happy that I enlarged my kitchen opening to 36 inches to accommodate it.  I would suggest that you buy a set of burner protector pans at a hardware store to make it easier to clean drips from pots.  About the only thing that's a little annoying about using the range is that the electric \"clicker\" ignition sometimes doesn't light the burners right away (I've had this problem on other gas stoves too) but the oven ignition always works fine.\n\nAll in all, this is a fine range and it has received many compliments from the amateur cooks who use it.  It certainly makes you wonder how other brands can charge 3 to 5 times as much for a 6 burner gas range.  Let's hope they continue to make this model; I don't think that there's anything else on the market that's comparable.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2534, "id": 474043, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 381, "len_tokens": 455, "text": "I bought this washer & the matching dryer. In about 30 days the washer broke down. I spent two hours on the phone trying to contact someone about doing a return and all I got was passed around and given one phone number, then another, then another....\nI was finally able to speak to a regional manager, John Sanders, and he immediately jumped on the defensive and was extremely rude. First, he told me they don't do returns, then he retracted and stated they only do returns if the customer is really dissatisfied and then they charge a 25% restocking fee, plus freight charges. WOW! You send me a defective item and then charge me when I want to return it. How do you like that for customer service?!\n\nThe washer filled up with water and then just quit working. It's only been used a few times. When you try to start a cycle, it just beeps and turns off. Also, it put holes in some of my clothes. The strange thing is, when I do an Internet search for consumer reviews on this item there are only a few and the majority of them are bad. All the other manufacturers have hundreds of reviews on their washers (all positive) and rate about a 4.5 out of 5 stars. It looks like no one is purchasing this washer. I also noticed that the few positive reviews on this GE washer have comments like, \"Great washer and it didn't rip my clothes....\" \"This washer cleans my clothes really well and didn't damage them...\" \"My clothes don't get holes in them when I wash them.\" What odd comments. It sounds to me like all the positive reviews were written by GE employees and they're totally aware that the washer rips your clothes. Well, my cothes DID get damaged during the wash and they've arranged it to cost a fortune to return the appliance so the consumer will be better off just keeping it. I already paid over $2,000 for the set.\n\nI think it's despicable to sell such a crappy product in the first place, but then to make it unaffordable for your customers to return the item is criminal! Go with LG or Maytag. They have AWESOME reviews for their products!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2535, "id": 185853, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 359, "len_tokens": 432, "text": "I love this set! I've had mine for 3 years now.  Washing time may be longer but I can really do much more laundry in 1 load so in all reality, I'm doing 2 loads at one time. The spin cycle really gets A LOT of the moisture out so that drying time is significantly less (have the dryer that has a \"moisture\" sensing feature, so it cuts down on drying time if the items in the dryer are dry before the timed cycle, then it shuts off instead of continuing to run).  When I first bought it, I was concerned about it not getting my clothes clean enough. This washer exceeded my expectations and gets everything superclean.  I use less water, less detergent (definitely get HE, I made the beginner's mistake of using regular Tide...waaay too sudsy, had to do a second rinse!), and savings on both water bill and electric bill. My unit is very quiet, I kept checking on it when I first got it because I thought it stopped. My only complaint is that I didn't get the version with a soak feature, which I like to use with whites. I've found that I really don't need to soak as long as I use the Whitest Whites cycle with a little bleach or Mule Team.\n\nAs far as the complaints of mold....that's because those people didn't read their instruction manual which specifically states to leave the door open so that the inside can dry out to PREVENT the moldy smell since the drum is absolutely sealed with the door closed.  The manual also states that you should run a Clean Washer cycle once a month which keeps it clean and mold/germ free.  The manuals aren't just fluff...they're actually there for a reason, people!\n\nI wish I could have gotten the bigger set but my laundry room is small and this fit perfectly into the space. I also recommend getting the pedestals. At $100 a piece you may think to skip them but you really should get them.  Saves the back plus you get nice little compartments to keep the detergent and other things handy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2536, "id": 75670, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 333, "len_tokens": 472, "text": "I purchased the AcuRite wireless 00611A3 to measure the temps and humidity of our attic here in Louisiana. We have a Ranch style home 2,000+ and a low pitched roof. The unit was up in 2 places for months while we monitored summer heat and humidity. It worked perfect, measuring over 160 (f) and reporting attic humidity. We moved the outdoor sensor behind a column to block the setting sun and under our eves not touching any part of the house 8\" (inches) from any material and not in direct wind, rain or sun. With one new Li battery it has been going strong for over a year. We have used 4 other types of outdoor temp / humidity sensors to date and this one by far is the best.\nI haven't checked the max range of the wireless but separated by two brick walls, wood wall and a really large fireplace we have it at 35' (ft) working fine. While in the attic we had at the longest 65' (ft). The signal indicator shows great signal. I'm sure it will work great at longer ranges but couldn't tell you right now.\n\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/AcuRite-00611A3-Wireless-Indoor-Outdoor-Thermometer-and-Humidity-Sensor/dp/B001B35APA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">AcuRite 00611A3 Wireless Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer and Humidity Sensor</a>\n\nUpdate: 3-22-2017 : The Remote fails to connect 100% of the time. From the looks of the battery compartment and knowing our humidity runs high here in Louisiana it's no wonder the contacts became corrupted. I have to say this unit has really done a great job and lasted longer than others we have owned in the same price range. We have the indoor united mounted on the wall and use it know for internal temps.\nWell we be ordering another? Yes, what we paid was less than others that lasted only one summer. Still a 5 star product in my book. Just wish I had sealed everything but the sensor before placing it outside. I'll show how to seal it when we have our new one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2537, "id": 536915, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 329, "len_tokens": 403, "text": "I was completely disgusted by this product, but not because of Amazon.  I'm fairly handy, got an E68 code, spent hours figuring out how to run diagnostics from the Internet and blah, blah, blah. Dismantled and put back together this component, just to see if it was suffering from an improperly seated cable connection, or something else minor that would be causing the E68 code, but no luck.  When I found the replacement control unit on Amazon my wife had me cancel an order for a new dryer to \"save money\" ... big mistake and waste of time, plus we were now bypassing advice from an appliance shop to dump the Frigidaire and to never buy an appliance with electronic controls ever again.  Put in replacement PC board after transferring several  components from old assembly to new assembly, and the new assembly wouldn't even allow selection of the dryer cycles. This is several days into trying to \"fix\" the dryer ... I returned the part with an RMA via Amazon rep by phone.  Amazon's service rep was absolutely AWESOME ... thought I might get an argument, but I didn't and I verified the credit on by statement within days. This is just one more reason to love Amazon. We ended up buying a brand new commercial duty Maytag dryer for $240 from a gal who accidentally bought electric instead of gas and put it on craigslist ... the new dryer works beautifully, has simple non-electronic controls, and dries loads about 1/3rd faster. The dryer we ended up buying was all of about 10$ more than this part with tax and 2-day shipping.  I normally rate products highly if they simply meet my needs without much hassle.  I don't knock down products just because I screwed up and the item isn't quite what I wanted ... that's my fault.  But for $220 bucks, this product really blows and doesn't really provide much advantage in terms of your time and money.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2538, "id": 180951, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 371, "len_tokens": 469, "text": "Very Handy for small items of clothing!  We received our Panda MIni Portable Washing Machine a few days ago and began the getting acquainted process this morning.  We have 3 children in the house under 7, lots of small-sized underwear, socks, shirts, and face towels for drying tushies after using the bidet: each child has his own color.  We set the Panda on a small table inside the tub, which has both an overhead and handheld shower fixture, plugged in the machine after giving it a quick warm water rinse, and began filling it, a little less than half full, with three hearty squirts of liquid detergent, 5 briefs, 6 face cloths, and a shirt.  Yes, the timer knob is next to useless; we'll just have to learn how it works using a watch and marking the machine at 5 minute intervals.  The machine came on, started juggling for a couple of minutes and then stopped . And then started again.  And then stopped.  And then started again and then...well, you get the picture.  None of the reviews I read mentioned this starting/stopping action.  Is that normal?  We checked that nothing was tangled, that the machine was level and stable...I will have to call the company about it.  After 10 minutes of agitated washing, we stopped it, put the run-off hose attached on the right side face down, and let most of the water run out right into the tub..  We rinsed the clothes twice using the hand-held shower attachment, hooking up and then letting down the run-off hose in-between rinses.  When the water was clear we let the clothes spin around a minute or so, and yes, they had to be wrung out, but that wasn't too hard, and yes, everything was very clean.  A successful first attempt!  We will try washing some small gym shoes next.  We need to find out about the intermittent starting and also about a bit of unusual strained engine noise.  The machine is energetic but not too noisy and seems to do a very decent washing job. I purchased the Amazon warranty for under $10 just in case something goes wrong, but I think the machine has a 3 year manufacturing warranty as well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2539, "id": 554001, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 370, "len_tokens": 481, "text": "So, shortly prior to the purchase of our 1930 Colonial, the previors owner completely remodeled the kitchen, using solely Fisher Paykel/DCS appliances.  The dish drawer fronts are classy stainless steel, easily cleaned with white vinegar.  The upper drawer is taller than the lower, providing for excellent cleaning of larger items.  That being said, one must take care to not place items in it taller than the top edge so the lid can completely seal.  Apparently, that causes water leaks, which generates an error code. We wash our coffee pot, filter basket and holder, mugs, juicer and blender jar daily, along with the accumulated dishes and utensils that comes with the morning's fare.  The lower drawer holds all other manner of kitchen ware, without difficulty. it just can't be too tall.  We initially used the short cycle with eco setting, for obvious reasons.  Saving water and air drying is what we all should be doing, right?  Well, I discovered that the kidney-shaped filter screen in the bottom under the utensil basket gets really scummy, plugged and gross.  It's easy to clean, though.  A veggie brush and dish soap tackles the job easily.  I now use the normal cycle on eco and the screen stays clean much longer.  And the dishes never emerge dirty or with soap scum on them.  Dishwasher powder is called for here, you can't use tablets of any type.  I clean the interior monthly by placing a measuring cup of white vinegar on the bottom rack and a half cup of baking soda on the top one, run it on the longest cycle with eco (no dryer) and the interior is sparkling clean.  Those are the pros.  Not to say I haven't had issues.  I got the dreaded disco lights on the control panels, which meant a service call.  I luckily found a company who specalizes in FP/DCS.  He found the issue in no time, replaced a part (worn wheel or dilithium crystal or something) and have not had an issue since. This guy has a truck full of parts for it.  I'm not sure what that says about the quality, durability and life expectance, but ours are at least 6 or 7 years old.  10/10 would purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2540, "id": 45397, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 379, "len_tokens": 464, "text": "Received the machine today, in its original box set in a larger box with corner bumpers. No box damage at all. I wiped it out, washed the tray & scoop, filled it and within 15 minutes it dropped two makings with no noticeable smell. The cubes are not as large as hoped, but just fine as is. I don't think it is very noisy, but my ears are old! The color is like the cinnamon color of our counter mixer; both units compliment each other and sure brighten the kitchen.\nWith 2 day shipping from Prime and the great price, buy it, you will enjoy!\n\nUpdate 12/21/2012: Well, as with some other reviews here, I am sorry to say the machine has died. It will still make ice; however, the gearing that moves the water tray has frozen and will not move. Sad that it is only several months out of warranty. I will call NewAir and see if they will make this right. If not, we will not buy any of their makers, but go with a more expensive one. We had hoped this little unit would last at least 4-5 years.\nMaybe I will attempt to remove the casing and see if I can get the gearing apparatus to release.\n\nUPDATE: 01/15/2013: I removed the back and top covers finding the drive motor had a rusted/frozen shaft. There was no grommet/o-ring sealing the shaft from moisture exposure. Therefore, nature took its course and moisture did its job. Sad reflection on the maker of these units that they could not better protect the motor and shaft. Guaranteed shaft freeze down the road. The next saddest thing is I called New Air and tried to order a replacement motor; I was told that they had to check if they could get one and would email me with info. After 24 hours and no reply, I searched and found the part on Magic Chef's parts order site and then verified the motor type with Magic Chef: [...]. Seems that many different ice makers are made by the same company and under many different brands.\nThe part w/shipping was $35.90.\nWe will no longer purchase from New Air; they may have good prices, but not having immediate access to parts? Sad...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2541, "id": 52692, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 354, "len_tokens": 414, "text": "Installed for a week and so far very happy with the performance.  This was a replacement for a very high end Whirlpool fresh ice maker which died after 7 years.  It would cost more to repair that unit than the price of this one.  Completely different units of course so you cannot compare but we no longer needed quite as much ice production once the kids where out of the house and the weekend sporting events were over.\n\nI recommend throwing away the connection tubing that came with the unit and get a good steel braided hose with compression fittings already on both ends.  If you have ever had an appliance leak, you know where I am coming from.  Minimize the number of connectors, possibility to kink and you will be much happier.  I already had mine in place so the water hookup took minutes but even a new one would only take minutes to install.  Pickup at any hardware or home improvement store. No teflon tape needed.\n\nOne point I will make is the unit is a little short for us to sit directly on the floor.  I built a little 16\"x16\" square table that is 9\" high to put the unit on.  Nothing fancy just very solid for the weight and stability, scrap wood from the garage.  Made all the difference for us.\n\nOne question I have posted and would like some help answering is what is the threaded hole for in the bottom of the compartment under the ice bucket?  It looks to be about 1\" in diameter. It is covered when the ice bucket is in place and there is not reference to it any where I can find and it does not look like a drain to me.\n\nEDIT:  I got an immediate answer to my question and it turns out it is a drain for defrost.  I noticed a little black cover on the outside but never went back to investigate after install.  The cover unscrews would allow water from defrost or cleaning to drain out to a tray or bucket.  Thank you very much for the information!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2542, "id": 211442, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 382, "len_tokens": 449, "text": "Great idea, needs improvement...a lot of improvement\n\nThe 2nd use, our tube that connects from the faucet to the machine split, causing water to leak everywhere. A roll of plumbers tape fixed the issue, but the tube shouldn't have broken to start with.\n\nThe lint catcher is totally useless. On our first wash, it popped off. It continues to pop off. By the end of the first week, I got so frustrated with it, that I threw it away, because the plastic just doesn't hold up to staying connected to the machine. Now I have a lint problem. There are 3rd party lint catchers, according to other reviews I've read, that you can get online - but the point is that I shouldn't HAVE to buy something else to take care of it.\n\nThe machine leaks. I have a video of it leaking around the top of the unit down the sides. I would have assumed this was because it wasn't draining, but I'm watching steady streams of water come out the exit tube into our toilet, which is level with the machine.\n\nThe timer on the spinner doesn't always engage spin when the two doors are closed. I've had to unplug/replug the machine back in to get it to \"reset\" to get it to work.\n\nThe spin bucket top (the ring around the bucket) comes loose often and causes it to rub on the machine, which has caused the plastic to shred around the top. This causes an unbalanced bucket, and a heck of a lot of noise sounding like the machine is going to take off like an airplane.\n\nThe machine overall does a good job with washing though once you get the hang of it. Most items tend to ball up in the center, so you have to keep an eye on it. I just wish it didn't have these other issues. I have used it less than a month - I shouldn't have to pay to send it back to Panda to have it repaired. I haven't even contacted them because I'm sure that is what they will tell me to do. I am searching for a replacement that will work in place of our Panda. I should get a working machine, without issues - from the start.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2543, "id": 89255, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 378, "len_tokens": 493, "text": "First impression is excellent. All measurements are displayed very clear, manual shows how to operate very clearly.  As for accuracy, close enough for my non-professional usage.\n\nNow for a short story..\n\nI've recently been on a mission to figure out why my sleep quality is so bad. I thought I liked to sleep in, but lately I really want to wake up early, but when I do, I just end up falling back to sleep for another couple hours.\n\nMy room doesn't have a ventilation system, just door and window. I usually sleep with both closed. But after seeing the readings this morning, I will be changing that!\n\nAccording to the unit, good air is less than 700 ppm; normal air less than 1000ppm; poor air above 1000 ppm.\n\nCO2 readings before sleeping (closed door/window) were around 600-700ppm @ ~11PM\nCO2 readings this morning around 8am-9am.. 1500ppm!!!\nCO2 readings as I write this review with the window closed and door wide open and fan circulating air in the room, 537 ppm.\n\nContradicting my findings, I did wake up feeling fairly well rested. I think due to the Germ Guardian air purifier running all night on low which I recently started doing to keep particulate matter low (only because my newly acquired Dylos air quality monitor displayed high readings ).\n\nReasons for keeping window closed is dust and external sounds (cars/trains). As a possible solution for dust, I might look into a special window screen that blocks dust and other particulate matter.\n\nIncluded is a photo of my first reading in the morning waking up with closed door/window (CO2 reading showing ~1500ppm). Dylos air monitor shown with excellent air quality reading (HEPA air purifier was running all night on low).\n\nUPDATE #1: Night Two\nWhen the room is empty with closed door and window, the CO2 levels drop into the 400 ppm range.\nWith one person sleeping in the room, CO2 increased to 1000ppm in about 3 hours. Opening a window slightly allowed the CO2 level to drop to around 850ppm. To reduce dust, I placed a Cut-to-Fit Carbon Pad for Air Purifiers in the window opening. This has slowed down the dust particles significantly. Will have to see how effective it is during the day.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2544, "id": 503875, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 391, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "The unit came with a small dent on the front right side where you can see it. See photo. I would have given it a one star, but my wife didn't notice it after the installation, so I gave it two stars. It wasn't enough damage compared to the hassle of returning something that weighs over fifty pounds. The outside of the box didn't have any visible damage, so I didn't find the damage until I took everything apart.\n\nPros:\n1. Looks good.\n2. Good suction. I didn't find the fan noise much different than other hoods.\n\nCons:\n1. No installation instructions in the box. I found lousy installation instructions on their website. Their website has a place for a video, but there is no video.\n\n2. One of the fans didn't work on low. Then it worked on high, but made a noise. Found out it was rubbing the plastic cover. I had to use a longer sheet metal screw to fix it. Its possible I warped it holding it up during installation, because I thought I tested everything before installation. Be careful not to touch the covers when trying to hold it up.\n\n3. You have to drill holes for installation in preset locations (mentioned by others too), but the locations don't give you enough tolerance. I had one screw almost on my front cabinet. Other manufacturers making units one sixth the price have a slot where you put up screws and slide the unit on them. I had to use nuts and bolts, so I have holes in the inside of my upper cabinet. One person had to hold the unit up while another put in the bolts. The manufacturer should have several pre-drilled spots with the wider holes to slide on to screws to easily solve this.\n\n3. Theres a metal box near one of the screw locations making it difficult to work with with almost no room for your hand.\n\n4. I have no idea why they have handles on the upper grease screens. Its a waste of time to install them and they are not necessary. You should have a magnetic screwdriver to put on the handles.\n\n5. The spacers above are painted and do not match the brushed stainless of the other parts. Unless you are short you would not see this or care.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2545, "id": 496399, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 388, "len_tokens": 461, "text": "A week or two after I took delivery of the LFX29927ST/01, the freezer door, supposedly stainless steel, began to develop what I can only call rust spots (strike 1). They would mostly rub off with a lot of elbow grease, but would always return, getting worse and worse each time, until virtually the entire freezer door was discolored. I called LG and they sent a technician. He admitted that he had never seen anything like that before, took pictures, wrote a report, and told me to follow up with LG after about a week, as LG would NOT be calling me (strike 2). He also recommended that I ask for executive customer service if I wanted quicker results. I followed his recommendation and ended up speaking with one Sherry Thompson. After trying to blame me for causing the rust stains (strike 3) by not following the owner's manual (untrue), Sherry said she would refer the matter to her supervisor and get back to me. I even emailed her the photos taken by the technician, which she claimed not to have. I waited for 2 months (strike 4) before calling back. The new executive customer service agent looked up my file and told me that all Sherry had written there was that she had told me to read the owner's manual. That was it. No indication that any follow up was ever intended (strike 5). The new agent, who was quite sympathetic, then talked to her manager and reported back to me that I would not be given a new freezer door because the rust was not affecting the functioning of the refrigerator (strike 6). She then offered to send me paint to \"cover\" the rust spots. When I questioned why I would be painting stainless steel, she admitted that this probably wouldn't work, but that it was all she could offer me and that if it didn't work I should complain again and again until LG took notice. So I said \"fine, send me the paint.\" Well, it never arrived (strike 7), so all I can think to do is write this review and post it wherever I can. Needless to say, when I went to buy a new dishwasher and microwave for my new kitchen, I avoided the LG brand. What a disappointment.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2546, "id": 301200, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 332, "len_tokens": 431, "text": "My partner and I LOVE this appliance.  I wanted something to streamline the laundry issue because I really, really, really, really hate doing laundry.  I hate it.  So, when I saw this unit as a viable option as an eco-friendly, money-saving, and time-saving alternative, I knew it had to be mine.  There was a bit of a learning curve, but it wasn't the machine's fault as much as it was my limited knowledge for using it properly.\n\n-Clean the door gaskets once a week.  I just use a kitchen towel and my finger to really get up in there and remove lint build-up.\n-Check your filter at the bottom twice a month, especially if you have pets.  Keeping this clean will ensure the water is draining and your clothes are drying.\n-Use the proper settings.  If you're washing a comforter (Yes, it's that big!), make sure you have your washer set for the correct load capacity, and the dryer option set for \"More Dry\".  By doing this, your unit will run super efficiently.\n-If your clothes feel slightly damp after taking them out of the dry, flick them in the air once or twice and, voila, the thin layer of moisture just evaporated.  Done.  Dry.\n-Don't overload it.  In fact, don't overload any washer or dryer.  Your clothes will come out wrinkly, wet, and not as clean as you'd expect.\n-Accept that it's going to take an extra hour for a load of laundry to be done.  You're not using a vented heating element.  The trade-off is, your laundry won't go all mildew and funk on you because you're a human being and you forget things like laundry sitting in the wash from 4 days ago.\n\nA little maintenance with the lint trap and rubber door gasket (I'd say about 10 minutes a month) is asking so little to have more space, a lower energy bill, 1-step laundry completion, and a unit that literally sings to you when your laundry is done.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2547, "id": 432983, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 325, "len_tokens": 407, "text": "I waited to write this review because I honestly had low expectations for such a cheap machine, but I was pleasantly surprised.  As others stated it's more work than a regular washer, but so much better than a laundromat. The instructions are horrible,  but heres what works for me and it's truly simple.\n  I put the whole washer  inside my tub on top of a 6\" high  rectangular plastic container i purchased to keep the washer dry when I drain the water into the tub. I also saved  the Styrofoam base the machine came in and use that between the washer and the plastic container to prevent loud rattling when spinning the water out of the clothes.\n  The plastic fill line is a joke,  so I bought an extendable shower sprayer, drop it in the washer and fill it.\n  I only fill the washer half way with clothing and fully with water or it won't spin well, I use half a cap of detergent and wash for 10 minutes,  then drain the water.\n  Then I refill the washer add a half cap of fabric softener,  wash for 5 minutes,  but DON'T drain the water. You need the weight to balance out the spin cycle or your little washer will sound and bounce like a freight train.\n  To spin dry. Remember, don't drain the water, just move half the clothes to the spinner and spin for 30 seconds, remove it and spin the other half.....now you can drain the water.\n  I hope this helps, i had a lot of trial and error in the beginning! I tried other peoples suggestions to spin between washes, but it's such a waste of time and adds unnecessary stress on the machine.\n  The biggest thing to watch for is don't overload it and don't overdo the detergent.\n  I just purchased the panda 2.6 ' dryer, I'll review that in a couple of months, but so far, I'm loving that too.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2548, "id": 504105, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 321, "len_tokens": 426, "text": "I purchased the Kegco K309SS-3 kegerator so I could use it for my home brew and commercial beer.  I had been using a converted refrigerator/kegerator for 5+ years and this is an excellent upgrade.  I have had this since May 2015 and waited before writing the review until I had some time using it.  The ordering process was simple and its worth noting that its shipped by a trucking company not UPS/FedEx.  It was shipped on a pallet and moved easily through my doorways on a dolly.  It arrived with no damage.  I let it sit overnight before starting assembly.\n\nIt was easy to assemble and I had a Cornelius keg ready to go from my now old kegerator.  So within a couple of hours I was drinking out of this new kegerator.  What might have made it easy for me to build was having converted a fridge to one before, and having read the instructions while I was waiting for it in transit.  A few weeks later I bought a 1/4 slim keg and put it in with the Cornelius keg, and they fit just fine.\n\nIts in my basement and looks nice, and runs quiet.  The controls are nice and easy to use.  When filling a growler I spilled into the drip tray.  The drip tray and the top of the kegerator are easy to clean.  If not used for a few days the tap does stick a little, causing you to either drink more frequently or just work a little harder for the first beer.  I am impressed with this and would recommend it for any home brewer or beer fan.\n\nRundown of purchase for$ 702.99 + $125 shipping from Beverage Factory\nKC K3309SS-3\nPolished Stainless Steel Tower\nNo couplers on original order\nDouble Gauge Regulator with 3 Way Air Distributor\nI used my existing ball lock coupler and later bought a Kegco Stainless Steel D Coupler (KTS97D-W)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2549, "id": 564747, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 353, "len_tokens": 420, "text": "UPDATE: Since the item did not include warranty info, or even so much as a customer service number to call, I tried to contact the seller to get the info. My message was sent Jan 15th and I have not received a response to date.  I was forced to contact Amazon customer support THREE SEPARATE TIMES to get my point across.  Apparently, no one else can get a hold of the seller or find manufacturer info on this product, either.  Do not waste your time with this seller or this product.\n\n--------------------------\n\nPurchased this range hood as part of a kitchen remodel project.  Due to several delays, we were unable to have the range hood installed until about 4 months after purchase.  The professional installers just unboxed and installed the hood today, and only one side of the hood's controls function -- intermittently at best, and only by pressing the full pad of the finger onto the button and holding it there, rather than being able to be operated with a press of a fingertip.  Most of the time, even when we press firmly and with the full pad of the finger, nothing happens.\n\nThe unit itself looks nice, it's sleek and trendy.  The lights are bright enough for my purposes and the fan is not too loud -- when we can get it to turn on.  But the unit SHOULD function perfectly straight out of the box, and does not do so.  It is still under warranty, so we'll be contacting the seller in the hopes of getting this issue resolved.  But now I'm going to have to have the installers come back for (and be charged more money for) the installation of a replacement unit.\n\nAdditionally, the instructions for the unit were vague, written in very poor English, and seemed to include details for many different models rather than for this model specifically.  The installers managed to set everything up nicely, but it was more due to their experience with kitchen remodels than because the instruction paper gave adequate information.\n\nAll in all, I do not recommend ordering from this brand.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2550, "id": 457248, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 375, "len_tokens": 486, "text": "The four stars is for the fridge, but NOT for the delivery/customer service.  This is the quietest fridge I've ever owned.  I have to keep checking to see if it's running!  The only thing that makes noise is the ice maker, and that is brief.\n\nI needed a true counter-depth fridge, and this one delivers.  It fits perfectly in my small galley kitchen, where the counters on one side are only 24\" deep.  It is tall, though, so make sure you measure.  I knew ahead of time I had to remove the cabinets above the unit before it came.\n\nThe refrigerator section is huge.  Plenty of room for everything I need.  Some neat features.  The freezer is small, though, and buyers may want to consider just how badly they want an ice maker, because it does take up considerable space (there is a model without one).  Still, I like the freezer on the bottom, and it suits my needs.  If you buy freezable foods in bulk, though, this won't work for you.\n\nNow, all that said: I would strongly recommend finding a local appliance dealer from which to buy this fridge.  Amazon sells it through a second party, who then contracts to a THIRD party trucking/delivery/installation service...and these guys were absolute jerks.  Horrible experience with them, from scheduling to delivery to installation.  The coup de gras was their assertion that I needed to keep the box and packing material, in case I needed to return the fridge.  Right.  The box was utterly destroyed, and the packing materials demolished and scattered, all left in my condo community courtyard for me to clean up.  No way I could use that stuff even if I did want to return it.  They just didn't want to deal with it, and left it for me.  Oh, and there was suddenly an $80 upcharge (which they wanted IN CASH) for delivering it to my second floor condo unit.  Riiiiighhtttt.\n\nBottom line: if you really want this fridge, find a local appliance dealer that sells them and will deliver it.  Love you, Amazon, but this experience left a bad taste in my mouth, and I'll be very careful in the future about buying big-ticket items that are peddled through your \"marketplace.\"", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2551, "id": 7079, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 366, "len_tokens": 447, "text": "Ladies, if your man is a home brewer and stuck fermenting without one of these ... this is your chance to make a very happy man.\nGentleman, if you are considering this little beauty, allow me to confirm, this is in fact what you want.\n\nYes sir, for right at around $50, you to can own this handy dandy device that will make your man's lagering dreams come true, yes that's right, it will make dreams come true folks.  Now before you say \"you have gone to far\" allow me to explain.  Without this wonderful device you have a choice about how you are going to ferment your beer, yes you have a choice - you can ferment your beer in a closet, or build a chiller.  Unfortunately, neither of your choices work very well for lagering, that is unless you only brew seasonally and are lucky enough to live in an area that stays at a nice even temperature of between 49 and 56 degrees Fahrenheit for over 30 days, and let me tell you friends, that doesn't happen very often in Texas.  Now this device can not be used alone, let me repeat this device cannot be used alone, you will require either a refrigerator, or a freezer with which to be controlled by this miracle of modern science.  Let me tell you my story folks.\n\nI had an extra refrigerator that was only storing sodas (which I don't drink) and water, when my wife rolls out this beautifully wrapped package, inside of which was this amazing little device.  I already had a batch fermenting, unfortunately this was over 10 degrees warmer than it should have been, which was causing me some consternation.  I plugged this handy dandy device right up to that refrigerator dialed in the temperature I wanted, and inserted a thermometer to ensure that it reached and maintained the temperature that I desired.  With very minor tweaking this is now at the perfect temperature of a very even 53 degrees.\n\nI am very excited to taste my beer, it will be the first time I will have been able to reach the proper lagering temperatures.  I am a very happy man.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2552, "id": 172986, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 366, "len_tokens": 437, "text": "These are OEM parts and are identical to the originals.  They fit perfectly.  The problem for people unfamiliar with these type of seals is that the rubber is stiff and must be relaxed to make a good seal.  As other reviewers mention, this is easily done with heat, either by leaving them outside, using a heat gun or what I did, just use a hair dryer on high.\n\nSimple instructions are to push the seal into the channel.  This is straightforward although it can be tricky at the corners.  Skip about 2 or 3 inches at a time then come back and push in the spaces between your first push.  This insures that the seal is centered along the door and that you are not accidently stretching the seal toward the bottom of the door (if you are working down) which will leave the seal too long when you get to the bottom.\n\nOnce pushed in, it will be compressed and will not seal at all, unless you presoftened them with heat.  I didn't bother.  Then use your fingers and pull the face of the seal out, the back will stay in the channel until you pull pretty hard.  Pull out the face of the seal to fluff it up a bit.  This is where heat helps.  I used a hair dryer to soften it up.  Then shut the door, and you will find many spots not sealing.  Use your fingers to push the magnetic surface to the fridge body.  Once it looks like it is sticking, use the hair dryer and slowly work around the seal softening it up.  It will take the permanent shape and flatten out against the fridge body.  Sides, top, bottom, between the doors and after a few minutes it will seal.\n\nOpen the freezer and check the bottom of the door seals too, if you do these steps, they will seal.  You can use a flashlight aimed at the door edges to double check the seal as you will not really feel cold air flying out or anything if it doesn't seal.\n\nTake your time, it isn't car door weatherstrip, these take some finesse to get installed but work great.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2553, "id": 135427, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 378, "len_tokens": 459, "text": "I've now had this dryer for over two years and can safely say that it's the worst dryer I've ever owned. I've had Asko, then LG, now Samsung per the recommendation of the sales guy (based on his customer reviews). Not only does this thing have a terrible sensor for when things are dry (dry means very damp on most cycles), it manages to tie all of my sheets or large blankets into Celtic knots, requiring me to monitor the situation constantly. When I hear the inevitable thump thump thump of the created wad of fabric, I go shake it out again only to hear it wad up again. Woe to me if I am not right there to monitor. I found a mega wad of several items of clothing yesterday, wound so tightly that I could barely get them unwound. And to add insult to injury, the lint trap had managed to catch a strap of a tank top and snap it, along with some other damage. This after the inevitable wad of sheets that I didn't have the time to monitor because, I don't know, I have a life with kids and dogs?? I wish I had thought to look up these issues when the thing was new--others are reporting the same exact thing. I'm not in any way overloading the machine--ONE set of California king sheets, or ONE king sized blanket, folks. Not a log jam. Small loads in the machine that has the largest capacity--yes, I've even tried large loads. I think I made a replica of Saturn on those days... I've tried all kinds of things--balls in with the sheets (yeah, they get swallowed up quickly and then I get the wad). The reports from other customers having these issues were dismaying at best--Samsung will not acknowledge the issue. Here I thought it was ME, only to find out there is some sort of design flaw. I've NEVER had this wadding up issue before, and I feel like a prized idiot for putting up with it for so long; I figured it had to be me, not this marvelous machine. I give up. It's the machine. The washer is great--no issues at all. The dryer--you'd be better off getting the LG.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2554, "id": 244476, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 326, "len_tokens": 410, "text": "I was very hesitant to buy an off-brand controller (especially a $7 one) because I hear they don't work as well, but since the official nintendo wii controllers are SO EFFING EXPENSIVE I took a chance on this Nyko one. After all, we just needed a spare in case we happen to have a 3rd player around, which isn't often.\n\nI was pleasantly surprised! It actually works just as well as the official wii remote! Also, it came with batteries, a silicone case and wrist strap to match it, which was a nice surprise since it didn't say in the description that it came with anything. That's a lot for $7!!!!\n\nKey differences between this and the actual nintendo brand wii remote: The Nyko is slightly clunkier and a little heavier, and the buttons are a little bigger. It makes no change in gameplay, though. If anything, the bigger buttons make it a little more user-friendly for certain games. As a side note, some of the sleeves and skins that are designed for the \"real\" nintendo wii conrollers won't fit on this due to the difference in button size. (But no worries since it comes with a skin and wrist strap already!)\n\nPeople have said that they had a hard time syncing the remote to the wii, but I haven't had any trouble.\n\nBE ADVISED! THIS DOES NOT INCLUDE BUILT IN MOTION PLUS! But it is compatible with the motion plus adapters.\n\nI really like the bright color, and as far as off brands go, I definitely recommend this one! We've had it for several months now and so far no complaints!\n\n***************\nUPDATE 10/14/14:\nI still have my two yellow Nyko controllers over a year later. They are still alive and well even with pretty regular use on both the Wii and Wii U. As a whole, I'm pretty impressed with Nyko products. I've purchased other Nyko products as well and have had no issue.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2555, "id": 88459, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2556, "id": 383525, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 377, "len_tokens": 443, "text": "I've been using this drier for a few months now and for the most part I like it, but wanted to share a few pros and cons in my opinion.\n\nPros:\nIt's relatively quiet\n  When disassembled it takes up very little space\n  It can hold a decent amount\n  It will take items from spun dry to bone dry in just a couple hours when full. The fewer items, the faster it dries.\n\nCons:\nPersonally, I HATE the way the center column attaches. It's very finely and deeply threaded. I find it frustratingly difficult to set it perfectly straight and maintain that position as I turn and turn and turn AND TURN and turn and turn some more until it's fully set. I dread setting it up and I'm sure my neighbors are either entertained or horrified by my fluency in American vulgarity.  Detaching it isn't any easier and I just cut the hell out of my finger doing so because the threads are so close together it very easily gets stuck. In attempting to free it it came out suddenly and now my right pointer finger is bleeding all over the place. I wish to god it had a twist and lock attachment.\n\nThere are 2 levels of bars to hang items on. The upper bars are sturdy and have end caps that help keep items from sliding off. The lower bars for some odd reason are very thin and because of their design, the ends are turned downward which means items easily slide off if you're not careful. I wish they just had the same sturdy bar design on both levels.\n\nFinally, and this might sound silly but trust me, it is a pain in the tush, the zipper on the plastic cover is really weird. The part with the tab that you pull up and down is really loose and wobbly, making it difficult to work with. It's like they used one meant for a larger, heavier zipper.\n\nAgain, in general this is a handy little appliance and it still beats slogging to the laundromat when it's too cool and damp here in San Francisco to just air dry my stuff after I pull it out of my little Panda washing machine which I LOOOOVE.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2557, "id": 61400, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 375, "len_tokens": 435, "text": "We have owned this all-gas range for a little over a year and all in all we are very happy with the way it cooks. I cook 5-6 nights a week for my wife and I so it gets used quite a bit. It does have some quirks that GE could do a better job engineering though.\n\nPros:\n- The front burners are large and can handle big pots with no problem.\n\n- The oven is large and the controls are straighforward. I love the temp controlled cooking which shuts off the oven when the meat gets to the correct temp. No overdone roasts!\n\n- The closed door gas broiler feature is nice. The broiler works well.\n\n- The griddle is convenient and makes grilled cheese and pancakes etc. convenient. Warm up is a little slow with the burner though.\n\n- The bottom oven is OK if you have a casserole in a pyrex dish or something else to cook/keep warm when the top oven is in use. It is slow to come up to temp. Be patient.\n\n- The cook top design is nice with the area around the burners sunken. This makes spills easy to catch. I don't find cleaning a problem. I did scratch the front edge though with the heavy cast iron grates. Be careful. I think you'd find this with any stainless appliance that has cast iron around it. The cast iron will win every time.\n\nCons:\n- The burner controls are not linear. I have to visually see what the flame height is to adjust properly.\n\n- The fan in the back top of the range comes on when the oven temp gets to 375 deg. It's loud and blows directly into the flame on the back burner. I have to put a piece of metal in front of the outlet to divert the air when I am using all the burners and the fan comes on. Otherwise it makes the back burner almost useless. The fan really heats the kitchen up in the summer.\n\nOverall I would buy this range again but only the dual fuel model. The electric oven will work just as well as the gas without the noisy fan that can affect the back burner.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2558, "id": 166436, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 370, "len_tokens": 438, "text": "I was able to wire up and try out this controller recently to use with a stand-up freezer for homebrewing.  It allows great temperature control with the dual-stage output (which can be set for any combination of heating and cooling) and ability to set down to 1 degree of differential, a short cycle delay (great for devices with compressors), and more.  The programming of the device is very straight forward and the instruction manual explains the various options well.  However, one area that wasn't clear from the instructions was how the unit was intended to be wired.\n\nThe company web site provides a much better diagram.  The key things to note are:\n\n- You are expected to bridge the hot wire to each relay terminal.  I am not an electrical engineer and perhaps this is standard practice, but I had assumed originally that the hot side would have been connected to the relays as part of the PCB design and that all I had to do was connect the hot and common wires from my output plugs to the two terminals for each stage and be done with it.  However, this is not the case.  See the diagram on their site, and also consider the change noted below:\n\n- The diagram on the company's site shows the COMMON (white) wire being bridged to the relays, not the hot wire.  I believe this is less safe and probably not proper and things should be reversed.  The hot (black) wire should be the one going to each relay so that the outputs don't always have a hot wire even when they're turned off, increasing the possibility of an accidental short to ground.\n\nFinally, one other thing I should note is that the lead for the temperature probe is relatively short, only about 2 feet or so.  However, I was told by the company that it can be extended with 18-26AWG wire up to 100 feet without any impact on the calibration of the probe.\n\nOnce properly wired and running, the device worked great for me.  It has been holding my set temperature to within a degree and I have not had any problems .  Overall I am very happy with the purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2559, "id": 402650, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 425, "len_tokens": 492, "text": "Edit 2: I tried to get a replacement part but no one responded to my calls or emails. Luckily I bought a warranty but I just got a gift certificate. I won't be buying another one. The laundromat costs the same as the large water bill I got by using this machine.\n\nEdit: The machine still works, but the spinner has provided many problems. Sometimes itd take forever to get to a high speed. My fianc would have to take off the back and tighten a loose bolt. Recently the rim of the spin became horribly torn up. I had to take it off. It still spins but it cant be filled fully or else the clothes fly out. I posted a pic of the spinner without the cover\n\nThis is a pretty good machine! I had a towel stained with old tomato sauce and it got rid of majority of them without stain remover. I give it 4 stars because it took some rigging to do. Like everyone else, the water hose didn't fit my faucet. I wanted to keep the drain hose by my tub so I got a funnel to put in the water hose so I could hold it up to my shower. The power cord isn't that long either (maybe 4ft). The instruction manual was missing the installation page and was worded weirdly. I had to look it up online. Otherwise I have no issues! The rest of this review is just FYI stuff.\n\nOne thing I didn't know about this before I bought it was that you need to switch the clothes from the washing tub to the spin tub and back. A wash will take about 10min then you need to put it to spin for 2min, put it back in the wash tub to rinse after changing the water, put it back to spin, and so forth. It's not hard work but you can't just put the laundry in and go watch TV. (EDIT: I found a tip online that said to rinse right after the wash so you only have to spin once)\n\nI bought this thinking the spin tub was a dryer for some reason, but that's my fault. It actually dries really well though. I was in doubt about how something so small can dry so fast but it does. It can't fit many towels but when it comes to shirts there's plenty room. The spinner is smaller than the wash tub. It can only hold the same amount as a low load", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2560, "id": 223588, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 367, "len_tokens": 454, "text": "The motor in my Whirlpool dryer (model LGV7858AW0 purchased in 1993) stopped working.  It was taking longer to start the drum turning, especially with heavy loads, and eventually would just hum loudly then shut off.  There seemed to be a lot of negative comments on almost any source of a new motor, but I finally decided on this one, although there are cheaper prices elsewhere, because I trust Amazon to stand behind products sold on their site.  The new motor looked virtually identical to the old one, and appears to be of equal quality.\n\n I had a little trouble unscrewing the blower fan, but this procedure worked well:\n1) leave motor mounts attached\n2) use a large adjustable wrench tightened on the flat of the motor shaft in front of the motor (~7/16\") and turn the motor CCW so the end of the wrench is resting against the bottom of the dryer.\n3) put a 13/16\" open end wrench on the blower fan nut making sure it is fully seated, and position the end of the wrench to the left of the motor.\n4) rap down hard on the open end wrench and it should pop loose.  Note that a sharp impact on the end of the wrench works much better than just pushing against the wrench, and that the blower fan is a left-handed thread.\n\nI had to rewire things because the new motor was slightly different, but directions were included, although they were a poor copy and a little hard to read.  I needed to change the crimp on terminals on two wires; the new terminals were included, but you also need a crimping tool, which would be annoying if you don't have one.  It would have been nice if they just included some adapters, which is what I made in case I ever need to put in an old-style motor.\n\nI put in a new belt along with the new motor and it works great.  I do not notice any difference at all in performance or noise, but I will post an update if things change.\n\nUpdate 7/22/17 - 6 months later still working perfectly.\nUpdate 4/27/18 - 15 months - still running perfectly", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2561, "id": 243932, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 391, "len_tokens": 452, "text": "Not sure I have much to add considering what has already been touched on, but I will share my own experience with these unique skates. First, there is definitely a learning curve and plenty of practice seems necessary to get the most out of these. I still consider myself a bit of a beginner with these even after testing them out a dozen or more times. What I have finally learned through my own trial and error rather than seeking any real tutorials or lessons is that you really must learn to propel yourself with your full body, with special focus on your core. If you twist your torso you can really whip the rest of your body (legs) into getting acceleration.\n\nFor the longest time, I tried to create momentum with mostly my legs doing the twisting and S motions but this wore me out and made my legs sore. Using your torso makes it so much more effortless. So, I think it is the combination of the two techniques that really makes the skates go fast and accelerate quickly.\n\nBut having said this, you still have to learn to balance and do the proper leg motions if you are just starting out. The rest will come along the more time you spend with them I believe. Also, be sure to use quality skate bearings (bones reds anyone?)\n\n*Update/Addition*>>>\n\n1/2016:\n\nI just wanted to mention that I just purchased a pair of Xgliders caster skates and find them to be a breeze to use and seemingly much easier than freelines, at least for cruising around on in general. The Xgliders don't seem to require the leg rotations specific to freelines which makes sense as the wheels already rotate. It seems that simply shuffling your feet alternating the left and right forward and backward (in and out) gets you going with minimal effort. The faster you do the shuffling motion the faster you go and all of a sudden your going crazy fast while just on flats. Turning is also very easy and traveling at slow speeds is still very stable. So, if you think freelines may be too much of a challenge and just want to get moving around well enough, I would suggest the Xgliders. They can accommodate up to 90mm inline wheels which is also a plus.\n\nCheers", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2562, "id": 101671, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 360, "len_tokens": 441, "text": "At first, I loved this item. It worked well, assuming it's actually loaded evenly (which takes practice... I actually discovered that the fuller it is, the better). After a few weeks of use, the plastic knob for the dryer broke. No big deal.. I just used pliers to turn it.\n\nNow, however, after just over 2 months of using it once a week, the lid won't close at all. Whatever mechanism they use to make sure the dryer stops when it's opened broke, and now it won't close at all. I flipped it over to see if I could unscrew it, and the screws are completely rusted.\n\nI am going to contact the manufacture to see if they'll quickly and easily replace it. I'll report back with my results.\n\n-------------\n\nUpdate: After posting my review, I went to their website and filled out the contact form asking for a replacement. Within an hour, I got a response saying:\n\n\"I'm sorry to learn about your MCSD not working.\n\nPlease don't worry, it comes with a full 3-year warranty and we will ship you a brand new unit.\n\nIn order to activate the warranty, we just need you to inform us the original order number (Amazon) and a shipping address, so we can send you a brand new unit ASAP.\n\nIf you have questions or comments, please let us know. We're always glad to assist you!\nHave an excellent day! \"\n\nSo far so good. I'll continue to update.\n\n-------------------\n\nUpdate 3\n\nCustomer service was fantastic. They sent me out a new device and I had it in 3 business days with basically no hassle. They emailed me a prepaid fedex label, and I shipped back the broken unit in the box the new unit came in.\n\nWith that said, this new device is next to impossible to make the load even. Pretty much no matter what I do, the unit vibrate violently. It does work, but it is beyond frustrating, and I'm doubting it will last longer than the last one.\n\nIf this review was based on customer service, it would be 5 stars, but it's based on the product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2563, "id": 516923, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 386, "len_tokens": 419, "text": "We purchased this refrigerator but a larger cubic foot two years ago from Sears. It has a nice look, the exterior and interior design is sleek and well built. Previously we had a bottom freezer model Kenmore Elite. Not a french door but the refer on top and freezer on bottom. I liked the space of the top but the freezer portion was small and hard to organize since it was one big drawer. Plus the freezer door was always getting left open and we had water draining issues and no ice and water in the door. I decided get a side by side to gain the ice and water in the door and it was cheaper than the french door models with ice and water in the door. Consumer reports also rated the Samsung refrigerators as a good buy so I went with it.\nI haven't had a single issue with the refrigerator since we purchased it. The ice maker works fine - there was one time that it wasn't making ice and I read the manual and it said the freezer may be too cold and sure enough, I increased the temp 2 degrees and it made ice fine - So I consider that my issue since we had the freezer temp down to low.\nSince we have a larger cubic foot refer, ours sticks out from our counter quite a bit but they had to make up the space somewhere and we wanted a larger capacity.\nThe shelves are glass and easy to clean and move around. The storage in the refrigerator is nice and the temperature is maintained perfectly. no more frozen lettuce. The frame of the shelves is plastic and we did have one crack. We aren't sure what happened but it is in the back and doesn't effect the look or structure of the shelf. I have not looked into replacing it.\nThe drawers are roomy and fit a lot of produce and what not. I also like the amount of door storage.\nThe freezers in side by sides do not offer the greatest amount of space but we can fit a frozen pizza box in there and I think it works fine for us but we also have a deep freeze.\nOverall I am really happy with the product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2564, "id": 419622, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 427, "len_tokens": 471, "text": "The filter is working well so far in my LG refrigerator. Seems to be doing the job. Nice to know I can order it so easily from Amazon and get it so quickly with Prime. I recommend it highly.\nDisclaimer - I did receive this product at a discounted price in exchange for an unbiased, fair and honest review. I take my reviews serious and will only provide accurate and honest feedback. I am not connected to this company or any of the companies of products that I review in any way. I do so because I want others to be able to make an informed decision on the products that I test and review and it make a mistake if something is not as it should be or they think that it is.\nI hope you found this review helpful and informative because I like to share my experiences with products I have used. I rely heavily on other peoples comments and experiences before I purchase a product. If this review has been helpful, please click YES, or if I've left anything out, feel free to ask. I rely heavily on reviews, photos and experiences when I make my decision to buy a product online and I will only leave a fair, HONEST and unbiased review of each product. Please note I am not compensated in any way for this review; however, your positive feedback definitely helps me learn what shoppers find as helpful. I will not deceive anyone or mislead about any product. I would also love to know if I'm meeting those needs and answering any questions you may have in this review or if I need to add anything. Also, your feedback will help me to continue providing quality and helpful reviews.\nIf you found this helpful, please select the yes or helpful radio button below. If not, please feel free to comment and/or make suggestions.\nI was fortunate enough to buy this product at a discount or for free in exchange for my honest and unbiased review either good or bad (and I would buy it again at full price). The discount I get does not influence my feedback or review. I only leave 5 star reviews when they meet my expectations and I would refer to my closest loved ones and strangers. This is my personal experience, feedback and honest opinion of this product, whether it be good or bad.\nNo one influenced my opinion and all the above statements are my own personal experiences.\n*** Thank you for reading!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2565, "id": 274253, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 391, "len_tokens": 484, "text": "I just purchased this drier and it works extremely well! Now there are a few things that I think everyone should know when purchasing this unit.\n\n1. If you don't spin dry your clothes it will take MUCH longer for them to dry. Very lightweight fabrics probably do not take a long time to dry, but heavier fabrics will if you don't have them spun dry.\n\n2. Lightweight items, like silks, rayons, thin cotton, etc will dry very quickly. Items that are somewhat bulkier like sweatshirts and sweaters will take longer, especially like around the cuffs and hemlines just because the fabric is usually thicker.\n\n3. Don't over pack it. The unit has a fan/heater at the bottom that circulates air around the unit. If you pack it, it will take longer for your items to dry. In fact, the rod that you hang your hangers on only has notches for 4 hangers. I suppose you can overpack it, but I would not recommend it.\n\n4. Close it and forget it. Stop peeking! When the unit is drying it slightly inflates from the air being circulated around inside. Once you open it, you can see the warm air escapes and the unit deflates, thereby increasing the drying time.\n\n5. If you don't want your clothes 'crispy' use fabric softener in the wash.\n\nSome of my favs:\n\n1. The heater fan is really warm. It's not as warm as say a blow drier, but warm enough that some items will dry in a few minutes, and it definitely takes less time than air drying.\n\n2. Your clothes are not strung out all over the house drying. I used to hate air drying my expensive Victoria Secret bras because it takes FOREVER, and of course ladies, your favorite bra is the one you want to wear immediate after washing.\n\n3. You do have the option of fan only, or low or high heat/fan with timer. Yes you can set it and forget it! Love it!\n\n4. The fact that it packs down is wonderful. I am intending on using this on my boat, and I needed something that was not too huge. We are on our boat for sometimes as much as a week at a time, and using the Laundromat is expensive and dreadful, and sometimes we are not even near one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2566, "id": 125673, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 352, "len_tokens": 433, "text": "I have now had the product for several months and feel I can safely rate the the Infiniti at 4 stars.  My Hair is past the shoulders, thick, with medium curl,  and slightly course. It is highly processed.  I have a full keratin treatment every six months and roots dyed every three weeks with highlights every other or third month.  My greatest concern is damage from heated appliances.  I am pleased to say this product shortened my dry time from full 40 minutes with couple 5 minute breaks to 15-20 minutes with no breaks. Normally, I straighten with flat iron after as well. Using the Infiniti Pro makes that process super easy as well - because I am able to get such a smooth straight finish just from drying. Be warned - there is a big learning curve.  It takes a couple times to get the forward and reverse down - and practice is needed to get the best style.\n  I have found 2 negatives: (1) It is heavier than expected.  That being said - it is still easier than trying to hold a dryer and brush. Especially - makes getting back of head more efficient with much better outcome. (2) I get a fuller root than I care for.  The hair, in general, is fuller as well.  This would probably good for someone looking for body - I have plenty to begin with.\n  Just a couple tips.  Make sure hair is well conditioned. This makes the hair glide easier through the bristles. Also, slowly and intermittently, advance the brush from root to end - so the hair doesn't wrap around the brush completely.\n  The only thing(s) I would change? I would prefer a different bristle - maybe slightly firmer. I think it would smooth the hair more effectively. And I wouldn't mind more heat. Fix these issues and I would give 5 starts.\n  Just as a sidebar I have tried the Conair Ionic Styler (with brush and comb attachments).  In comparison - this product is much more effective. The attachments came off the Styler and broke in no time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2567, "id": 20418, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 348, "len_tokens": 444, "text": "Beware, you might not be getting the product you expect. For years, GE sold the MWF filter. Now they offer two similar-sounding products, the MWF filter and the MWFA filter. Even though I have purchased the MWF filter from Amazon since 2010, this time they shipped me model MWFA (I ordered the MWF \"three-pack\" from a related product page). There is a very significant difference. See the manufacturer's link (shown in the photograph). The old MWF filter is being sold as \"Pharmaceutical Filtration\" while the new MWFA filter is being sold as \"Standard Filtration.\" The implication is that the only difference is the MWF filter also reduces certain listed pharmaceutical compounds, while the MWFA filter removes everything that the MWF does except for the pharmaceutical compounds. This is NOT the case. The MWF filters that Amazon shipped to me did little or nothing to improve the taste of my water. I was not convinced that I could actually get the old MWF filter from this website, so I went to Home Depot and found the old MWF filter (sold as the \"Pharmaceutical Filtration\" model) at a price higher than from Amazon. I installed the MWF filter and once again my system supplied water with good taste.\n\nIf you want the best tasting water, and likely the highest contamination removal, be sure to use the MWF \"Pharmaceutical Filtration\" model and avoid the MWFA filter. Unfortunately, I don't know if the MWF filter is available from Amazon, and which filter will be shipped if you order from this product page). If Amazon ships you the MWFA filter and you've ordered the MWF filter, be sure to return it for a refund within 30 days.\n\nUnfortunately, GE jacked up the price of the MWF significantly, so if you've used the MWF filter in the past, expect to pay a lot more for it now.\n\nIf you recently ordered this product from this link, let us all know (by commenting to this review) if you got the MWF or the MWFA, as this will be helpful to others. Thanks.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2568, "id": 322398, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 359, "len_tokens": 436, "text": "I've been using my WM-3 for a few weeks now and I've been quite impressed with the accuracy of this meter.  The readings were nearly spot on with my full sized calibrated weather station.\n\nThe unit itself is compact and very lightweight, it almost seems too light, I weighed it at a mere 51 grams, but it doesn't come across as cheap feeling in the slightest.  It's constructed out of a sturdy plastic, nothing bends or creaks and the buttons have a nice positive click to them.  This thing is solidly put together.\n\nIts small size allows it to fit easily in a pocket or tossed in a bag, it also comes with a nice protective case and lanyard, and the light weight allows it to basically be forgotten about until needed.\n\nActual operation of the unit could not be easier.  One button and it's alive and taking measurements.  A backlight automatically illuminates for 10 seconds, so even in the dark, it's really easy to operate.  Switching between the various modes and units of measurements is easily accomplished with two other buttons.\n\nI'm not a professional by any means, but I do consider myself to be a weather buff.  The unit allows for calibration, but honestly, unless you have a calibrated reference source to adjust it again or have some need for extremely precise measurements, it's best left alone and is going to be more than accurate enough right out of the box.  Remember, this is a $29 instrument, but even still, I was very impressed with its accuracy.\n\nThis is a great gadget and especially so for anyone that spends a lot of time outdoors such as hikers or hunters or boaters, pilots, professional weather spotters or just general weather nerds, or just people who like gadgets.\n\nI suppose if I had one gripe, I would have loved to see this unit do pressure too, but at this price point, that's asking a bit much, and Ambient Weather has an excellent range of higher end handheld weather stations that can perform all sorts of neat additional functions.  For the asking price though, the WM-3 is a fantastic value.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2569, "id": 87619, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2570, "id": 30847, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 342, "len_tokens": 442, "text": "I really loved this ice maker--until the bottom of the water bin filled with a thick layer of black sludge.  I cleaned it out with paper towel, etc., and the unit still makes ice, but I'm not inclined to ingest anything that might have come in contact with whatever the oily, greasy substance is.  But--good warranty, so no problem, right?  Not so right.\n\nFirst, I was unable to register the unit online because I could find no \"submit\" button on the registration web page.  So I wrote an e-mail about that, as well as about the black sludge.  Though promised a 24-hr-turnaround on e-mail, no response within 48 hours.  Then I tried a call, leaving the details of the problem and a callback number.  Website also a claimed 24-hr-turnaround on calls, but no response yet to that, either.\n\nFinally I talked to a service rep.  Though I told him that the ice-making process still works, he asked me to run another test batch.  I did so, and called back the next day.  Talked to two different service reps.  The story: because they have never heard of this problem, and I cannot replicate it, they cannot service it.  What a marvel of logic I found *that* to be!!\n\nI can take it to someone in my town, and if this person figures out what the unit needs, they will send me the parts for free.  But I'm beyond the 90-day limit on warranty labor, so I pay the labor.  Or I can send the unit to them and pay $75 for them to look at it.  Truly, I would have thought that the manufacturer would have more curiosity about their own product.\n\nI then called the backup third-party warranty I had purchased.  Since the manufacturer was still offering me parts they could do nothing.  But if I wait out the next six months, they can help me.\n\nSo here we are.  I've ordered another brand of ice maker and will now enjoy taking this one apart.  Maybe I can figure it out!\n\n~CC", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2571, "id": 215706, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 332, "len_tokens": 417, "text": "UPDATE:\nI'm updating this review since this piece of junk is even worse than I'd thought.\n\nFirst, the hot water dispenser was broken the day it was delivered. It just never worked properly. After 6 service calls, GE finally decided to replace the damn thing after they basically replaced all the electronics in the fridge, to no avail.\n\nThe new fridge is just as loud as the first one, but sometimes, it's much louder. It's like having a Harley running in your kitchen. It measured it with a decibel meter and the sound level came in at about 75 dB.\n\nWorse, the fridge doesn't keep the temperature. I have all the temperatures set at the \"recommended\" settings, but the actual temperatures are WAY OFF. In short, EVERYTHING is FROZEN in the fridge. The water line doesn't work because the WATER IS FROZEN. All our vegetables have freezer burn and we had to throw them all away.\n\nORIGINAL REVIEW:\nA lot of people complained about the noise... I didn't think much of it when reading the reviews, but now I regret that I should have. Others have said this already: that it's normal, that it sounds different because of the variable-speed compressor. However, there's no excuse for it to be so loud.\n\nAlso worth mentioning is that the hot water dispenser is flaky at best. I've tried to make hot water 3 times, and 2 out of the 3 times, the fridge comes back with the dreaded \"Hot Water Disabled\" error message. Google this; others have had this problem. So I have to go to the panel and cycle the circuit breaker to get hot water to work.\n\nThe stainless steel is also quite cheap for a Cafe--it's something I'd expect on the mainline GE. It's the thin, shiny, with lots of coarse grain, nothing like more polished SS found in higher-end appliances.\n\nAnd, just after one day, the cover on the touch panel for the temperature-drawer bin has already started peeling off.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2572, "id": 87339, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2573, "id": 38867, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 343, "len_tokens": 402, "text": "To elaborate on my title, I am on here speaking in behalf of my girlfriend who ordered this product for me as a Christmas gift, and is too sweet to call and complain about the experiences shes had with this process. She ordered the Nostalgia Kegorator the Thursday before Christmas and opted for the one-day delivery ($60.00) to ensure the arrival was before Christmas. After calling Amazon a few times she was finally told that the package would arrive two days AFTER Christmas and that her extra delivery fees were to be returned for the late delivery plus she would be awarded a $10 gift card... Upon opening the box there was a large dent in the top back corner from what appeared to be it jamming on a rack or metal beam. The Nostalgia sticker was barely hanging on with a large scratch on the door under it on the front.  I examined everything and there doesn't seem to be any structural damage so due to their lack of punctuality the first time I figured Id hide the blemishes and stick with what I had. So I get my CO2 tank filled and drive to my keg store an hour away to pick up a craft keg then drive back to set it all up.  I get all of the fittings tight and open the valve. Next thing I know my CO2 is rapidly flowing into the air and no beer out the tap.  I fiddled with it for about 2 hours after calling many fellow keg owners but to no avail. I called tech support the next day Jan 4 and after troubleshooting they said it was a faulty dual-regulator and that they would have one to me as soon as their shipping re-opened for the year Jan 14th or 15th.  Needless to say this product would be nice if things worked properly and arrived in due-time. Save yourself the time and money and find a store close to you that sells kegorators and that you can pick up on site.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2574, "id": 297084, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 251, "len_tokens": 441, "text": "ABSOLUTELY LOVE THIS LITTLE WASHER!  I RECENTLY MOVED AND LEFT MY OLD WASHER BEHIND AS IT WAS OVER TEN YEARS OLD.\nAM RETIRED AND LIVING ALONE, SO DON'T REQUIRE A LOT OF LAUNDRY THESE DAYS.  BUT WHEN I DO, I AM NO LONGER ABLE TO GO TO A LAUNDROMAT.\nAND THIS LITTLE GUY FILLS THE NEED PERFECTLY.  WOULD DEFINITELY RECOMMEND FOR ANYONE LIVING ALONE WITH NO OTHER WASHER AVAILABLE, WOULD RECOMMEND FOR SINGLE RETIREES, AND DEFINITELY RECOMMEND TO ANYONE HATING LAUDROMATS AS MUCH AS MYSELF.  WASHED THE CLOTHES UNBELEIVABLY CLEAN, SPINNED DRIED MARVELOUSLY SO THAT LITTLE HANG TIME REQUIRED, AND WAS EASY TO SET UP ALONE (AM 73 YRS OLD, DID ALL BY MYSELF). ON TILE FLOORS IS EASY TO MOVE, EVEN WITH A FULL LOAD OF CLOTHES AND WATER.  NOT LIFT, JUST PUSH ALONG.  I FILL MINE AT THE BATHROOM SINK AND EMPTY INTO THE TUB.  THE WORST PART OF UNPACKING IT AND SETTING IT UP, WAS THE PEELING OFF THE CLEAR PROTECTIVE SHEETS ON BOTH LID DOORS.  WOW, THEY DO NEED TO PUT ANOTHER BRAND OF PROTECTIVE COATING ON THE LIDS.  HINTS TO AVOID LEAKAGE:  MAKE SURE DRAIN HOSE IS IN THE BOTTOM OF THE WASHER TIGHT; DO NOT OVER FILL THE TUB WITH WATER, WITH CLOTHES, OR WITH BOTH AS THIS LITTLE GUY SLOSHES THE WATER AND CLOTHES AROUND VIGOROUSLY IN AN EFFORT TO GET THE CLOTHES CLEAN; MAKE SURE BOTH HOSES ARE EMPTY BEFORE MOVING MACHINE.  DELIVERY TIME WAS SO QUICK WAS UNPREPARED FOR ITS ARRIVAL.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2575, "id": 50132, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 420, "len_tokens": 481, "text": "I purchased this to replace an inline filter installed by my plumber two years ago.  In order to replace the filter he had installed I would have to go down into the crawl space under my condo which is a long trip through three fire doors which starts in a full basement and ends under my place which is a dark crawl space about five feet high where the shut off is.  Then I would have to go back upstairs dissassemble the filter, unscrew the compression fittings and then go back down under to turn the water on and hope nothing was leaking when I went back upstairs.  Needless to say I didn't change the filter until it clogged and the icemaker stopped working.  This gem took less than 10 minutes to install start to finish, including mounting, and I never have to make that trip again to change a filter.  I have copper tubing that comes up about 10 inches out of the floor and from there plastic tubing is joined which ran about two feet to the existing filter and then there was about three feet of plastic tubing running from the filter to the fridge.  I took a chance and did not turn off the water.  Using my garbage can to catch any water I cut the fridge side of the tubing from the existing filter and a bit of water drained out.  I inserted this cut end into fridge side of the new filter housing.  I then (holding it over the garbage can) cut the water source side of the tubing from the existing filter and quickly inserted the tubing into the new filter casing.  The cut wasn't clean, water sprayed out and the tube was not secure, so I removed it made a clean cut and reinserted - perfect.  About a gallon of water ended up in the garbage can between cuts.  I mounted the casing with two self drilling drywall anchors and secured the tubing into a foot diameter circular return with a twisty tie.  It's working perfectly, no leaks, and the icemaker is once again making ice.  I'm thinking of replacing my undersink filter with one of these when I use up my filters, it's a good filter but the housing has to be cleaned with bleach and it takes about a half hour to clean the houseing and change the filters and this is just so much easier, just unscrew the filter and swap it out.  For the price this is terrific!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2576, "id": 300017, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 320, "len_tokens": 402, "text": "It is hard to believe the price on this thing from is a bargain - from Amazon, that is.  Our original was decomposing after only a few years.  I am pretty sure the reason for the thing falling apart is that the part of the basket going to the back of the dishwasher is directly over part of the heat coil, close enough to cause damage over time.  I contacted the manufacturer for a goodwill replacement - no dice.  They offered to sell me one - for $55!\n\nEDIT 3/31/17 - I want to spread the word about my experience with KitchenAid (Whirlpool Corp) on this silverware basket.  Before ordering here, I called their contact center to ask for a goodwill replacement (dishwasher is out of warranty),  They said no.  While shopping for the best price, I saw a boatload of posts by people experiencing the same problems with warping and disintegration of the basket.  I am convinced the basket problem is caused by a design defect in all of their dishwashers where the basket goes on the side.  The rear of the basket sits directly over the heat coil.  I believe that proximity to the heat coil causes degradation of the basket over time.  I again contacted KitchenAid with this information and asked for a goodwill reimbursement for the basket I bought here.  They said no - again.  This is very different from my experience with an out of warranty problem on a GE refrigerator.  GE took care of the problem, although they were not obligated to do anything.  KitchenAid's approach is that once out of warranty, the problems belong to the customers.  Consider that when you next shop for major appliances.\nEDIT 6/11/17 - I must have caused Whirlpool some embarrassment.  They came thru with a reimbursement check and apology.  Still, my experience with out of warranty situations has been outstanding with GE, not so much with Whirlpool.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2577, "id": 131333, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 367, "len_tokens": 432, "text": "Great filters. These are legitimate Samsung filters, so there's no reason they shouldn't be good. Especially for the price! Installation is kind of annoying, took me about 15 minutes from start to finish. I had to use a pair of pliers to grip the old filter and twist to get it unlocked. There was obviously so much gunk built up in there that I couldn't get it untwisted by hand. Then I tried installing the new filter, but the water pressure made it impossible, so I went ahead and shut off the water supply to the house. With the water supply off, installing the new filter was easy. It just popped right in and locked in place. I turned the water supply back on and emptied out about 3 gallons of water as instructed. That part was very boring, I just kept filling and dumping jugs.\n\nI haven't conducted a water quality test of the tap water vs the filtered water, but just from the taste alone, it seems like the filter is working. Or maybe it's a placebo effect, who knows haha. Depending on how often you use your water dispenser, they last up to 6 months. I drink A LOT of water every day, and I let the last filter go the full 6 months before changing. That's probably why it was so hard to remove, because they were totally filled with pollutants at that point. You can also tell when they need to be changed because the water comes out a lot slower.\n\nI've had this fridge for years and we've been through tons of these filters. I took off a star because I honestly think they cost way too much. It's just a water filter! Why does it need to cost almost $50? There was one time these were $35 on Amazon, and I thought that was a great deal...but of course now the price has gone back up. Anyway, these are good and they work, so go ahead and get them if you need new filters. I've read horror stories from people buying the off-brand water filters and it breaking and flooding the house, so I'm gonna stick to the Samsung brand.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2578, "id": 73650, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 404, "len_tokens": 456, "text": "I had to replace the fan and insert in my over the range fan setup recently due mice falling into it and dying. I can get into why that was happening here but it isn't really relevant to the review. Lets just say whoever installed the original really half assed it and I'm still living with some of the consequences as a result. I decided to replace everything since the old one had some rust and obviously was gross.\n\nAnyway, I had a really hard time finding any power packs or liners that seemed to fit the hole. I actually passed this one over several times because its listed as 30\" and the hole I have is 28.5\". I don't understand what nominal means in this context still as my total cabinet width is still less than 30\" but regardless, this measures 28 and 7/16 inches wide. I found this out from the spec sheet on Broan website, which actually isn't super easy to find. The depth measurement is 17 1/4 inches from this same spec sheet. Additional information is available on this spec sheet which can be found by searching just for the part number.\n\nThe width was perfect for my cabinet but the depth was a tiny bit to short for mine. I solved this by buying a piece of metal plywood edge guard and attaching it to the wall to fill the resulting gap. It isn't perfect but it looks reasonably nice compared to a void or a piece of wood.\n\nThe metal looks quite nice and smooth and while its overpriced for what it is at least it isn't also poorly made. And compared to the few other possible options I had it is sadly very affordable. I used it with the cheaper power module of the two that fits. One thing to note is that these modules install flush to the face of this insert. The module I was replacing hung down entirely beneath this with none of the fan or light assembly actually inserting into the liner. I mention this because I had to modify my cabinet with a sawsall, hacksaw and lots of swearing because the power module hit into a useless cross piece of wood inside the cabinet hood facade and I had not anticipated it. Check the measurements on the power pack you use and use the spec sheet to determine whether you have clearance.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2579, "id": 466515, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 377, "len_tokens": 448, "text": "I am writing this review to help spare others what we are going through right now.  We bought a DCS grill seven years ago and the customer service was amazing.  We love the grill and the customer service experiences we had during that purchase led us to purchase the DCS 48in gas cooktop with grill and griddle.  I wish we had realized they have been bought by another company!  Our NEW cooktop we paid around $3800.00 for came to use with missing parts and a drip try that was installed so poorly it would not open.  The tray alignment is off and it bent the frame.  We called DCS immediately expecting the same amazing customer service we had gotten several years ago and were stunned at their reaction which was basically \"too bad\".  They refused to replace the cooktop and were of no help at all.  We went as far up the chain as possible with nothing but the same run around.  They insisted that we get it serviced - OUR BRAND NEW $3800.00 COOKTOP - serviced!  They would not even consider helping us until we had a service company come out and try to fix our new appliance.  They said that the service company would have to deem it irreparable before they would \"try to resolve it\" - not replace it.  The servicemen worked on the drip tray and although it now pulls out, it has to be forced.  They are ordering the missing parts from DCS and those should be in sometime after Christmas.  When you purchase an appliance that costs that much and claims to be a high-end product, you expect the customer service to match their claims.  This cooktop should have been replaced immediately and we cannot believe the hoops we are having to go through.  Furthermore, we are afraid of the issues we may have to face in the future.  What else is wrong with this thing - how did it get damaged - is the quality control so poor that they marked parts as included yet they weren't?  Did they actually inspect this cooktop before it left their warehouse?  We are so angry and are trying to work through the process but I am strongly urging you to choose something else!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2580, "id": 485906, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 408, "len_tokens": 492, "text": "A neighbor discarded one of these - brand-new, never been plugged in. It is cute, but the design seemed a bit off. It is not a very good design. Each of the four indents that hold a \"pizza\" is quite small - about three fairly small bites.\n\nI download the owner's manual online and followed the instruction as best I could. The dough recipe has no leavening and lots of butter. The instructions were a bit vague, but it seems you sort of spread the rolled out dough discs into the indents while the machine is cold(ish). Once the filling is added, you plug it in. There are two lights that aren't particularly useful - power and \"ready\" (which lights up long before the \"pizza\" is actually cooked or \"ready\").\n\nThe resulting \"pizza\" is really more of a topless tart. Even rolling out thin, the crust is doughy inside with the outside a bit crispy. The filling is still quite wet, since it is almost as deep as it is wide and can't get hot enough throughout to cook completely.\n\nMaking these \"pizzas\" is a bit tedious, spraying with oil,  spreading in the dough, spooning in a small bit of filling, plugging in the machine, waiting a few minutes, trying to decide if the dough is crispy on the outside, unplugging the machine, getting each out of its hot indent without scratching the non-stick coating or burning yourself, letting it cool a bit, and then repeating for the next scant serving (actually, I could easily eat eight of these at those times when I would normally chow down on pizza...!).\n\nCleaning is a bit difficult, as it does not disassemble, so you have to wash the cooking surfaces without getting water inside. The only solution I could find is to prop it up sideways on the edge of the sink and use a brush and sprayer. Too awkward.\n\nIt's a cute idea. It is reasonably well built, but flawed design. It was fun doing these with my 4-year-old son (we cook together a lot, he's getting to be a good cook). But it was too much work for mediocre results. They were edible mainly because I seasoned to my taste, but the maker needs to return to the drawing table and design something actually practical.\n\nI'm glad I didn't pay anything for this, and will probably pass it on to a thrift store.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2581, "id": 484643, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 416, "len_tokens": 496, "text": "BUYER BEWARE:  We purchased this island hood 3 years ago from the manufacturer on Amazon. It was marked 'new'. We should have known that the price was too good to be true. It arrived with cosmetic damage (specifically, there was a large dent on one side). By the time this was realized, our contractor had already spent time assembling it, so either I was going to send it back for another (and wait additional time and pay for the contractor to come out again) or put up with the dent. We chose the latter. And Amazon actually issued us a partial refund.\n\nFast forward 3 years and the vent stopped working. At first, it seemed to have a mind of its own. If I selected the 3rd speed (highest), it might randomly go down to the 2nd or 1st before stopping altogether. After some months of this not knowing when it might decide to turn off, it would not work at all at any speed. And the lights also ceased working. The manual that the hood came with was good for nothing- almost comically so. Does not contain a shred of real troubleshooting. Doesn't even seem to contain much information about this product at all aside from a single picture.\n\nSo I did what anyone would do: I contacted AKDY, the supplier/manufacturer. They asked for my Amazon order # as well as the model # which I supplied them with promptly. Then, much to my surprise, they sent out a new circuit board and control panel free of charge. But unfortunately, they had their own problems. The control panel was not the same one in our hood (in fact, it appeared much cheaper with actual mechanical buttons that appear like they belong on a child's toy) and the connector was in fact not the correct fit. See my photo of the control panel that was sent and compare it to the sleek digital display control panel which belongs to our vent.\n\nI contacted AKDY's product support via email three times more and never received an answer. Then I placed 2 calls to their California area code that I found on my prior email correspondence, but was not able to reach anyone.\n\nIf anyone is considering this unit, STAY AWAY. Yes, it looks like a $2000 hood vent. But sadly, it's not. Now we're stuck having to purchase a brand new vent from a reputable manufacturer and pay once again to have it installed. Terribly disappointed.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2582, "id": 270450, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 386, "len_tokens": 457, "text": "I couldn't be happier with this Freezer!  I am disabled have dealt with chronic pain constantly since a child.  Because of this condition I am always looking for ice packs to help ease the pain.  When you are in my situation and this has been going on for decades you find yourself at the mercy of others to help you with many of your daily duties. Pain has no schedule and comes when you least expect it.  My issue is when the pain comes on in the middle of the night that I would find it hard to ask someone to grab me an ice pack from the freezer downstairs.  I never wanted to be a bother and would then just deal with the pain.\nNow since my daughter convinced me that a bit more independence would be good for my soul, we searched and found this Whynter CUF-210SS Energy Star Upright Freezer.  Now I was sceptical of the high ratings since I was raised on \"if its too good to be true, it usually is\".\nI ordered it anyway... Best decision ever!\nI now have a freezer that sits in my room just a few feet away and it is QUIET as can be.  I had to check it a few times to make sure it was on...and yes it was!  Large inside too.  It holds my 3 ice packs almost perfectly.  The ice pack size I use is..(8\"x15\").  It curls up on the edges a little but I am greatful it fits like it does. I recommend if you use it for this purpose, keep the ice pack as flat as can be on the very bottom shelf and it will freeze the fastest.  I tend to rotate mine as I use them putting the already firm one from the bottom to the middle shelf and placing the used one on the very bottom.  Having this indepence to care for myself in this way is so liberating.  As much as my family wants to care for me, I am able to do this for myself.\nI love this item and would recommend it to all who need ice packs at a moments notice.\nPS.  It holds a large box of Popsicles too..and I still have a whole shelf not even used yet.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2583, "id": 329232, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 348, "len_tokens": 443, "text": "Right so I've had this machine for quite a while.  First let me say, yes it does make ice, in three different sizes.  That's the good bit.  Now come the not so good bits.\n\n1) The instruction manual seems as if it was written first in another language and then pasted into Google Translate and voila! Non, c'est ne pas bien!  The manual gives the most vague and generalised instructions, not just for operation, but for care and maintenance as well.\n\n2) In spite of my best efforts (i.e. setting the time, not setting the time, setting the timed on/off feature, not setting the timed on/off feature, etc.), the thing beeps at really inconvenient times, say in the  middle of the night.\n\n3) The clock is in 24-hour display only with no option to change to a 12-hour a.m. / p.m. display.\n\n4) CLEANING - This is why I rated it two stars.  I've been wiping out the ice maker receptacle as per the instructions (as useful as they are - not!) regularly. Taking the whole thing (it is heavy for my standard) over to the sink to flush and drain out the back, etc...well recently, and for the first time, (was wearing my reading glasses) I saw the inside to the back, behind the evaporator, and to my absolute horror there was black mold everywhere.  I tried a variety of brushes, different sizes and shapes to get to the area, no joy.  I had to get my tool kit out, find the bit small enough for the screws and take the bloody top off!  Even after all that, it took three more times to get it all out.  There were more screws holding things down in places but I was dubious of going full throttle with dismantling of the machine.\n\nI absolutely DO NOT recommend this machine.  There have got to be much simpler models, much, much easier to clean, with a much better instruction manual.  (For the record, I'm a Technical Writer and writing manuals for the end user is my work for 15 years now.)", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2584, "id": 348277, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 354, "len_tokens": 405, "text": "I received this unit as a review sample. First, I did make a few test batches of cubes and can confirm that it will  produce the claimed twenty-seven (give or take a few ounces) pounds of ice in a twenty-four hour period. Do note that it will not do so all at once. Each batch cycle will produce a little less than two pounds.\n\nA cycle takes up to twenty plus minutes, depending on the ice size that you select. The smaller ice is made a little faster than the largest of the three different 'cube' sizes. Moreover, this will only store a single cycle's worth of cubes, so if you are using it at a party it will require some management of the completed cubes as well as refilling the maker. Still, it will efficiently product ice on a nearly continuous basis as long as you manually transfer the finished ice to insulated coolers as well as keep the reservoir filled between cycles. In that respect the performance is very impressive, and each load of ice is substantial.\n\nIn my title I mentioned that this is economical. It is. The entire unit draws about two hundred Watts (two old style light bulbs), so the refrigeration system inside is pretty efficient. There are some operating requirements that you need to heed. Foremost is ensuring that the side vents are not blocked. Also, it is not designed for outdoors use, so factor that in if you are purchasing this for a pool party or BBQ.\n\nThe manual cited that high ambient temperature can also hamper operation, so I am extrapolating that this unit cannot be placed in direct sunlight or in overly hot spaces. I have  not tested those environments, but do need to warn about potential limitations. I do not view this as a design flaw since many appliances have the same restrictions, but, again, want to set expectations.\n\nThis unit can can easily keep a party of twenty supplied in ice for drinks. Plus, when you factor in the low energy consumption that I cited above this makes an excellent personal ice maker.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2585, "id": 166635, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 370, "len_tokens": 454, "text": "Bought from a local retailer, but love it enough to share a review:\n\nOur house is designed with the kitchen right out in the open, right in the middle. We like it. What we didn't like is the noise our former dishwasher made, a \"quiet series\" dishwasher. Or the noise from the one before that, also billed as being very quiet. This Bosch? It really is quiet, except for the barest announcement when the cycle changes. Thanks to the light at the base, you know it's on. But you wouldn't know from listening unless you press your ear against the door.\n\nEven though this dishwasher and our previous models shared the same interior size, this one does hold more on two racks thanks to a better layout of the tines.\n\nOur former machines utilized the age old heating element on the floor of the interior to heat the water. And over time, that heating element became calcified or coated with dishwashing soap or something -- who knows. I know that over time, our machine did a poor job of heating the water, ergo, a poor job of washing the dishes. In this machine the water heats at the entry, instant-heat hot water. It seems more efficient. It's hot.\n\nNo matter which settings we chose, our former machines ran for ages, only to present barely clean dishes. We scrape the dishes, load this washer and set for \"auto clean\" and \"sanitize,\" and while I haven't tested with a timer, it seems to operate in about half the time of the other dishwashers we owned. That's efficiency.\n\nThe only thing it doesn't have (although some Bosch models do) is a delayed timer. I made good use of that in our other machines so that we weren't disturbed by the noise. It operated in the middle of the night, away from our bedroom, away from us. This machine doesn't have the timer, but it's a moot point since it doesn't make any noise. I turn it on, then we have a conversation, watch television, listen to music, all undisturbed.\n\nGreat price for a quality product. Now. If someone would just explain to me why dishwashers need to be cleaned, I'd be happy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2586, "id": 53909, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 259, "len_tokens": 428, "text": "I love this unit.\nEasy to use.\nSuper quiet.\nIt gets my clothes clean.\nI always fill the softener to the max line and my clothes smell awesome.\nSometimes my pants get really wrinkled.\nSome users have rated this with only one star simply for that reason. You just have to iron them.\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Smartek-Steam-Iron-ST1200G/dp/B000VNM30Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Smartek Steam Iron ST1200G</a>&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Polder-1232-82-Deluxe-Tabletop-Ironing-Board-Natural/dp/B0000TQGZO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Polder 1232-82 Deluxe Tabletop Ironing Board, Natural</a>\nClothes \"seem\" damp if I pull them out as soon as they are done but I just set them out for a good 30 seconds and they are in fact dry.\nRuns for about three and a half to four hours for a full load on normal settings.\n\nI live in a small guesthouse about the size of a one bedroom apartment. For whatever reason, I had a dishwasher but no washer and dryer. I replaced the dishwasher with this washer dryer.\n\nI ordered this from an external website and that Sunday they were running a 10% everything sale so I paid less. (great start) I figured it would take like a week or two to deliver but it was here on Tuesday at 9am! The delivery guys even helped bring it into the room where it was to live, the kitchen. (very European) After a quick trip to the hardware store and about $30 for two braided hoses and a splitter valve, the installation was simple.\n\nIf you're considering buying a washer/dryer combo, this is the one to get. It's the best one available in the U.S.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2587, "id": 87211, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2588, "id": 284970, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 429, "len_tokens": 494, "text": "We bought this after our last washer of 20 years broke down on us.\nI did a lot of research on washing machines because I did not want to spend all this money on something that I would end up hating or having to replace any time soon. It's odd that this particular machine gets bad reviews on Amazon. This washer is nearly 5 stars everywhere else I look with hundreds of reviews.\n\nThis washer does take longer to wash my clothes than my 20 year old machine did. I guess I expected that, as I am using approx. 10 gallons in lieu of the 50-60 gallons I used to use. That's considerable! I went from a 40 minute wash cycle to almost an hour. That's not a deal breaker for me, as there is a short cycle if I was in a hurry for my clothes. Besides, they clothes get spun so dry in the spin cycle that they're barely damp when they come out of the wash saving a SIGNIFICANT amount of drying time. From wash to dry, I spend less time with this than I did with the older top loader, even though the wash cycles are a bit longer.\n\nThis machine does a fantastic job of washing clothes. My clothes that used to come out dingy come out remarkably clean now. And like I previously mentioned, they get spun so dry the dryer barely takes any time at all. You only need about 2 TB of soap with the washer too, so you will save a lot of money on detergent.\n\nThis washer comes with a pull-out dispenser for your soap (powder or liquid), liquid fabric softener and bleach. It's so convenient. I also really like and really use all of the different settings. I like that if I have a load of towels, I can set it to towels and not have to think about anything else. The washer also automatically senses how big your load is, so no more guessing as to whether it's a small or medium load.\n\nI love how my clothes, and especially my towels and sheets don't come out all twisted up anymore. I used to hate untwisting my sheets before putting them in the dryer. And kiss wrinkles goodbye. Unless you pack this washer completely full (which would be VERY difficult as it holds a LOT of clothes), your clothes have ample room to move which decreases wrinkles.\n\nI love this washing machine and would highly recommend it to anyone in the market for a new washing machine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2589, "id": 36853, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 358, "len_tokens": 440, "text": "Who knew you were supposed to change the splash guard in your sink every few months? Well, I didn't, but when I read it on the web (thank you, Buzzfeed newsletter for grownups) and then pulled mine out - for the first time, after living in my house for six years - I thought I must have had llamas living in my disposal. The upper side was so-so - ok, maybe a little grey-ish - the bottom side had clearly been used by the evil underworld to spit on and never, ever wipe clean. Ever. My house was permanently contaminated by seeing this. That toxic waste splash guard had to go, go, go.\n\nAnd, who knew you had to make sure you had the right model splash guard? Well, I didn't know that either, so I bought the generic one-size-fits-most at the hardware store to replace the toxic one. The generic one didn't \"really\" fit. That's a big mistake. Don't do it, you'll never be happy (because your husband will point out daily how the splash guard doesn't guard and the stopper doesn't stop and why did you pull out the old one and what is all this about llamas and toxic waste and make you feel like an idiot. You will end up fishing the toxic one out of the trash with a coat hanger and shoving it in your husband's face. Then no one is happy and you still have a problem).\n\nYou MUST match the guard/stopper to the disposal brand. And you MUST replace it regularly (or just NEVER EVER LOOK at the sink stopper, because you'll be so sorry when you see what your disposal spits backatcha, it's SO GROSS). THIS replacement FITS for this disposal. Sign up for buying it again every six months or so, because otherwise, your disposal will spit like a llama.\n\nI should note that it is so sturdy, water is slow to pass through - it's a bit damming, so to speak. Whatever - I'm just happy the damn thing (sorry about the pun) is clean, and fits my disposal's drain, without calling in a professional.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2590, "id": 149357, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 362, "len_tokens": 435, "text": "This machine (Not the Black Ascenta, BTW) and Bosch service have been disappointing. It cleans very sparkly as long as the dishes are basically clean before they're put in. Otherwise, not so good.\n  I hooked it up as instructed to existing plumbing. Frequently, but not always, it did not drain. I contacted Bosch who provided the names of local service people. The first guy said there was a piece of something stuck in the drain tube. There had never been a problem with several previous makes. A week later, it again failed to drain. After hand-draining several times, I called for service again. This guy rerouted the drain tube under the sink, saying it needed to be higher. It was as high as install instructions required and as high as previously functional. The next day it failed again. This went on for quite a while, working, then failing, then working. I told Bosch I wanted a replacement. The service person I talked to said the hose needed to be rerouted behind the unit. I did this, with justified doubts. It failed again. I again told them I wanted it replaced and they insisted I had to have another service call to begin the process.\n I tried a different service provider. This guy finally came up with an answer. To meet energy saving requirements, newer machines (including Bosch) were using smaller motors. He said the connection where the hose tied into the plumbing was now too small and needed to be larger for new machines. I would have to do that myself. He charged me $75 for a solution that should have been included in the instructions, and certainly shouldn't have taken nearly 10 months of frustration to uncover. The larger connection cost me about $3 and took a half hour. Had Bosch provided this information initially, they would have saved me a lot of time, frustration and $75.\nThe machine now drains, but remains underpowered. It does not remove food particles that have set., and does a random job at removing oily (salad or cooking) residue and small grains. In short, it does OK if the dishes are basically hand-cleaned before use.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2591, "id": 94862, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 241, "len_tokens": 423, "text": "This is a great looking, no, incredibly gorgeous appliance. If you are setting up the house for display, no other dishwasher comes close.\n\nUnfortunately, it has a minor shortcoming. Namely, it does not wash dishes well. Large items such as pots simply do not fit into the drawers. The duplicate sets of water jets are also not as powerful as their counterparts in similarly priced competitors of the traditional single-door design.\n\nAdditionally, according to Consumer Report, Fisher & Paykel dishwashers suffer from extreme quality issues, with a 25% rate of major repairs, which is more than twice of the nearest competitor. The unit that I have personal knowledge of got both motors burnt out shortly after the one-year warranty expired. Although they cost only $50 each, the labor can be expensive. Waiting for them to be shipped from Australia is also no fun.\n\nAs of April 2009, there are only three vendors selling double-drawer dishwashers in the US. Other than this Fisher & Paykel DD24, KitchenAid re-badge the same thing as&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/KitchenAid-Stainless-Steel-Double-Drawer-Dishwasher/dp/B0016GTAWQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">KitchenAid Stainless Steel Double Drawer Dishwasher</a>. Sears sells a double-drawer Kenmore Elite unit that also looks suspiciously similar. They all garner miserable quality ratings from users of a year or more. So, unless you are a real-estate agent setting up the house for sale or a lucky housewife who never cooks, buy the Kenmore Pro or&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Bosch-Evolution-800-Series-Stainless-Steel-Undercounter-Dishwasher/dp/B000UVYTOC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Bosch Evolution 800 Series Stainless Steel Undercounter Dishwasher</a>&nbsp;instead.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2592, "id": 264770, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 332, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "First, to their credit, after trying the filters and not being happy, the seller sent a prepaid label and issued a prompt refund, so five stars to the seller, zero stars to the actual filter.\n\nI ordered the three-pack, thinking they were a great deal since the GE brand filters are absurdly expensive.  Not only did it not work, but I think it actually damaged our refrigerator.\n\nHad trouble even getting the first one installed, finally did and I successfully got water out of the access point on the door.for about 10 seconds.  I was going to run a couple gallons through as normal to clear out any carbon dust, but after about 10 seconds the water started intermittently spitting and spurting out of the dispenser, accompanied by a loud jackhammer-like sound coming from the back of the refrigerator (seriously).  Looking down the crack beside the fridge, I could see the icemaker hose jumping back-and-forth in time with the noise.  Lovely.\n\nWIth much hesitation, I let it run for a few seconds, thinking perhaps it was just air in the line.  It did let up and I got water normallyfor about another 30 seconds, then more sputtering and jackhammering.  I removed the filter, re-installed it, and water flowed normally.for about 30 seconds, sputter/jackhammer. lather, rinse and repeat.\n\nContacted the seller, who said \"try a second one, if it does the same thing we'll give a refund.\"  Tried another one, and it was even worse.  With this one, removing and re-installing it didn't buy me 30 seconds of water flow.\n\nSo, I sent them back and reinstalled the old \"officlal GE\" filter.  For a few days, it seemed OK (wasn't using it much, though), but now it's doing the sputter/jackhammer thing even with the \"official\" filter.  I'm now going to order a new \"genuine GE\" filter and HOPE that resolves the problem.\n\nIn closing, if you're looking for equivalent GE MSWF filters, AVOID THESE \"Swift Green\" filters or risk needing refrigerator repairs.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2593, "id": 177934, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 351, "len_tokens": 447, "text": "\"The dryer's not working\"\n\nAnd with those four words, visions of money evaporating into thin air waltzed through my head as I contemplated having to buy another dryer.  We've had our Maytag Performa (model PYE2300AYW) for about 12 years.  It's been a great dryer and I wasn't really ready to part with it - or at least, part with the cash needed to replace it.\n\nAfter poking around under the dryer's hood, I turned to my trusty handyman reference, Google.  I quickly found out that more than likely the problem was the thermal fuse.  Oookay, so what and where is the thermal fuse and can I replace it?  To make a long story short, the answers were another quick Google search away.  I found a great set of videos where the guy who just happened to have the exact same model dryer as me did a video walkthrough of how to find, test and replace the fuse.  I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post YouTube videos in this review, but if anyone is interested in watching them, leave a comment and I'll post it.  Believe me, the guy who made the videos is a lifesaver.\n\nArmed with the know-how, that just left me needing to find the part.  But this was just as easy since the guy in the above-mentioned video says exactly what fuse kit is needed - the LA-1053.  Because I needed the part that day, I purchased it from a local supply shop ($30), but if you can afford to wait a couple of days, it is much, MUCH cheaper getting it from Amazon.  The kit has three parts, including two fuses.  Since I have an electric dryer, I used the fuse with a pink dot on it (the other one is for gas dryers).\n\nReplacing this thing was a breeze.  After giving the venting system a thorough cleaning, I put everything back in place, plugged it in, turned it on and \"voila!\" my dryer worked!  Thanks to Google, the guy who made the videos, and this small fuse, my wife thinks I'm a genius!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2594, "id": 222286, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 412, "len_tokens": 487, "text": "I purchased this in early 2015. I lived in the 2nd floor of an apartment building with no laundry/washer in it. I was also getting very large at 6 months pregnant. I needed something ready for when the baby came, and I could not leave the apartment (single parent). I also was specifically not allowed to use a washer in this building, but  took a gamble that this would go unseen.\n\nIf you are a renter, sneaking this into your apartment, this review is for you. Unfortunately, this does come delivered in a box describing what is in the box. It was in Spanish, so my Super would've been able to easily read it. There was no photo, however, and I was able to get the delivery in the door without anyone noticing it. This was easily nestled in my kitchen next to shelving and refrigerator. It is nice and small (not too small) and I was able to slide it across to the kitchen sink ( 2 feet) pretty easily even when 9 months pregnant. I kept the piece of cardboard from the box it came in, so it would slide across the tiles effortlessly. In my current apartment, I keep this washer in a utility closet. I purchased casters to roll it across the room. I highly recommend getting the casters because it also eliminates some of the noise on the floor.\n\nThe next challenge was the noise factor. I started this machine and couldn't believe it. There was very little sound, and I successfully drowned it out completely by keeping my stove top fan running.\n\nSome tips on noise:\nThe more water there is to swoosh around freely, the more noise this will make. I like to pack the clothes enough so that the water does not make so much noise.\n\nFor some reason, hot water makes the spin cycle bang loudly. This is the only reason I gave this a 4 instead of 5 star. Regardless of how much or how little water there is, or clothing there is, the spin cycle gets loud when hot water is involved. Other wise, warm and cold are almost silent on spin.\n\nThis machine spins clothes almost dry and find it spins better than the pro Laundromat washers. I hang my wash up for a few hours and its ready.\n\nI highly recommend this washer. It is now almost 2 years later, and I have not had any problems with it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2595, "id": 189067, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 322, "len_tokens": 415, "text": "I'm guessing I can't be the only person with an older Kenmore/Whirlpool refrigerator.  After 16 years, the icemaker stopped making ice.  And after narrowing it down to the water valve inlet I found that the part (part #2206123, model# 106.59212990) isn't sold anywhere.  I was about to give up when I found another review here for someone who had the same problem and fixed it with this generic replacement.  I'm only writing this here because it finally fixed my issue after a lot of time spent trying to fix it.  The Kenmore we have uses a triple circuit and this one is only two, but if it's one of the two in back that has the problem this will work.\nYou can test the existing solonoids with a multi meter to see which one is bad - go to youtube and search for how to test refrigerator solonoid with a multimeter.  Then basically I took out the entire assembly and replaced both solonoids that are together with the new ones.  You have to do a little bit of screwing/unscrewing to get the old ones off, but it's pretty straight-forwad.  The main piece of advice, which I didn't heed myself, is to use your cell phone to take pictures as you take out, and take apart the old water valve - if you're like me and have never done this before, the pictures are a big help when you're trying to remember where certain things go.\nAlso, check the part numbers - although mine is a Kenmore, it's made by Whirlpool, and it's in several other brands which may have different part numbers even though they're all identical.  So, if you have one of these older triple circuit refrigerators and really want ice made again, this may do the trick.  Oh yeah the other thing is that even if I found the original part, it sold for about $75....this was about $13...big difference.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2596, "id": 166731, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 330, "len_tokens": 406, "text": "I have an old Miele dishwasher G851 SCI.  I also use silver as my everyday flatware.  I know some of you are thinking why but I always have and always will use all my \"good\" stuff.  My family has never thought twice about eating off of silver.  A few years ago I noticed a black sort of tarnish developing on all my silver after I ran it through the dishwasher.  Bear in mind I had always used silver so I thought it was something wrong with the dishwasher.  Miele is great about servicing its machines so they came out and repaired everything from the gaskets to the door seals,and hoses, etc.  They admitted they had no idea but thought maybe the rubber was breaking down and only depositing this darkness on the silver.  Everything else was fine, no dark spots on glasses, plates or pans, etc.  Miele also recommended I use their dishwasher detergent which is specifically formulated for Miele and costs 5 times as much as dishwasher tabs from Costco.  I used the Miele detergent for some time and it was better but not perfect.  I would polish the silver and then run it through and it would have this dark finish on it.  I called Miele several times and they blamed it on the new formulations for dishwasher detergents.  They said there was nothing wrong with the dishwasher.\nOne day, my son decided he wanted to change his usual breakfast meal.  He no longer wanted nutella and bananas.  Guess what happened?  NO dark film on my silver.  So the culprit is NUTELLA.  There must have been enough Nutella on the knife and on the plate to leave this film and for some reason the silver metal interacted with the hazelnut spread to cause a dark film to occur only on the silver.\nMoral to the story...rinse your NUTELLA if you eat with a silver spoon.\nI hope this helps others who may have experienced the same problems.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2597, "id": 291254, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 398, "len_tokens": 470, "text": "I would not hesitate to purchase this machine again, even though I've only been using it two weeks; however, I've been using it about 4 time daily. Since I'm using it in my apartment I needed to hook it up to a faucet.  The machine is shipped with two inlet hoses and a single quick release female faucet adapter, so I went to Home Depot and bought Y-hose adapter to bring both hoses into one feed (I bought one that uses lengths of hose as part of the adapter, thereby lengthening the hookup distance), two female-female garden hose adapters, a universal faucet adapter for the quick release, and two more adapters to join the Y-hose adapter to the quick release.  Add a little silicon tape to the adapter threads and this setup has been leak proof ever since.  The rate of flow from the discharge hose is also slow enough that my small bathroom sink can handle it easily, even with large loads.  The volume of discharge in the sink never rises above the bottom third.\n\nPros: not as heavy as I expected, has two wheels that help move the washer when tipped to the rear about 45 degrees, standard hot and cold water hookups on the top rear of machine - centered; drain hose on the left rear and extends at least 5 feet; drain hose must reach 34-40 inches in height to work properly; the heavy, jeans, and quick wash programs are convenient; extremely easy to turn on and start; nice window on top of machine so you can watch the machine in operation and judge whether you added enough soap; fail-safe on lid stops the machine immediately if opened (can quickly toss in a shirt if need though); attractive; quiet; good speed on spin cycle (can air dry on a clothes line without any worries about dripping); feels and sounds well-built; extremely fast shipping via FedEx; the 10 minute quick wash is very convenient when time is short\n\nCons: arrived dented because the anchor holding the wash tub in place broke during shipment, but I kept the machine because the dents were very minor and the machine works flawlessly; on the highest water setting will wash only about 2 pair of jeans and 2 T-shirts; will wash a full-size synthetic blanket, however or 4 bath towels at once or a set of sheets.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2598, "id": 87075, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2599, "id": 554989, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 382, "len_tokens": 450, "text": "We bought this refrigerator after researching Kitchen Aid, and LG units. All of the products reviewed had serious issues that we were concerned about, The Kitchen Aid with its Ice Maker issues, <this unit replaced a whirlpool side by side unit with an ice maker that insisted on missing the bucket, and throwing ice into and under the bottom basket. The LG with the compressor  complaints steered us away from it. We already own a Samsung washer and dryer set, and stove. Both have done well over the life. Washer 6+ years. Prior to professional delivery from a large box store, I downloaded and looked at the specifications. I found that the unit would not fit through the doors with its doors on. After the very reluctant installers removed the doors, <stating that they had issues with getting them to seal again> got the unit inside and the doors reinstalled, the unit has performed as we had hoped. We found the freezer failed to hold what came out of the old 24 + c/f side by side. We thought at first that it was noisy, but I seldom hear it even in our quiet open floor plan house. I seldom hear hear ice dropping since its held near the maker. I have learned to hold a cup up near the top of the ice and water dispenser in order to keep the product in the cup. No issues. It is well lit, and I am starting to enjoy the food showcase feature. It is very handy for a bottled drink, or milk for the morning cereal. The Flex drawer works well. We store dairy products, yogurt, and a bottle of wine in it. All seems to be perfect. I am very pleased with my decision, and have not buyers remorse. On the upside, the dark stainless steel looks fantastic in our kitchen, as the stove has more black than stainless. Side note, I did have to readjust the doors after the installers left with a #2 phillips screwdriver. I was able to get them aligned perfectly. I also double and triple checked the unit to ensure that it is totally 100% level. <front to back, and side to side> At this point after 2 weeks of ownership, I would buy it again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2600, "id": 105600, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 385, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "UPDATE:\n\nIt's still a great washer but here are some tips:\n1. Make sure you regularly hand-tighten the cables in the back or you will spend a lot of time trying to figure out why it leaks. (You can kinda get your hand in the crevace in back.\n2. It will take forever to was dishes or not to as great a job unless it's on the cup/single wineglass setting. Anything further to the right = a good few hours a load.\n3. The red light in the middle means you need to a add dish drying agent (the blue stuff)--without this it starts washing and drying poorly. Pour in enough so the light goes out. Apparently it's the compartment underneath the compartment visible that your are filling (when you do that rather than the upper compartment it will last a month like it says it will in the manual.)\n4. I no longer bother to close the soap tray since it won't open anymore on it's own, and there is no real need to close it anyway.\n\nThat's about as far as I got out of the manual and the good news is it still exists online (for those of us that can never find the manual in the sea of manuals).\n\nI still love my machine and it does a super job. I don't always pre-wash or presoak and it does a great job, with the occasional re-wash of a second cycle required. Also, getting the right fitting on your sink faucet is crucial for avoiding leaks. When you get it right you probably should never remove the attachment nose again (meaning it's a real pain if you want to hook up a water filter or portable clothes washer to the same sink with a different size fitting.--If you insist on doing this your solo socks will come in handy to tie of the sink leaks.)\n\n****************************\nMy Danby started leaking out the side so I bout this one.  It is much quieter, more energy efficient and looks better.  I can even run it at night.  The only thing I'd change is make the outlet valves metal instead of plastic.  The directions tell you which spoon to put where which is a bit OCD.  Forks only go in certain holes.  Why?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2601, "id": 394864, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 352, "len_tokens": 436, "text": "Note: This review specifically applies to model AWN542. Some of the features noted in my review may not be available on the other washers in the AWN series.\n\nI had a Speed Queen washer that lasted for years and years.  Loved it.  When it finally needed to be replaced I bought a cheap brand.  What a HUGE mistake.  That Roper washer was so rough it tore up my laundry. It could not balance itself.  I could go on and on.  It was horrible.  Do not ever think that Roper is the same as Whirlpool.  It is not even close.  The Roper was only 2 to 3 years old and working but I decided to get rid of that mistake.\n\nI researched the front loading machines and the top loaders that do not have agitators.  Lots of complaints about those machines as well as many people who love them.  I did not feel confident that I would be happy with any of these washers.\n\nSo I went back to what I know is a great product and that is Speed Queen.  I now have the top loader AWN542S.\nI am so happy.\nGentle thorough cleaning.\nI like NOT having digital controls.  They just are not needed on a washer and why have something that will likely not last as long as the mechanics of the washer?\nI can use HOT water.\nLots of water level choices makes it easy to conserve water on any size load.\nSelf balancing so I don't have to worry about a load becoming unbalanced and walking across the laundry room.\nDelicate is delicate, unlike my former washer.\nThis is a relatively quiet machine.\nMany choices regarding size of load, amount of water, type of fabric, type of cycle.  Plus an extra rinse button.\n\nDid I say I could not be happier?  Easy to use, great washing results, quiet and extremely well made.  I am confident it will last a long, long time.\n\nMy Speed Queen dryer of 17 to 18 years is still going strong.  But when it is time to replace it, I want another Speed Queen.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2602, "id": 87235, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2603, "id": 182224, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 375, "len_tokens": 442, "text": "I bought this stove after doing a lot of research and some of the reviews were lackluster. Some complained that the oven didn't heat to the proper temperature or it was a different temperature than what the thermostat reads. One reviewer wrote that she spilled liquid on the top, enough so that it ran down through the top and made its way into the glass doors..........all I can say it must have been a lot of liquid because the burners are sealed and it would take a flood in order for enough liquid to get through the burners. Anyway, I suppose some could destroy an iron ball. Now, for my review. I ordered this during a labor day sale. I was actually going to buy the Samsung FX510 but since I was going to have to order it as well, I went with the nicer model that includes the griddle. All I can say is wow! The stainless steel has a nice thickness to it vs the traditional brands that are now made in places like Mexico and are flimsy. With my oven thermometer in hand, I tossed it into the oven and set the temp for 350*, then tried it at 425* and guess what, it is spot on so the oven on mine at least reflects what the temperature on the thermostat says. The plumber I had to install the gas line told me it's possible others experienced irregular heating problems from not having an adequate gas source. In other words, this isn't grandmas old gas stove. It's a high output range, 87,500 btu, and thus requires a comparable gas line. I had 3/4\" installed to the stove as a 20' run of 1/2\" doesn't supply enough cfh of gas to operate this stove at max capacity. The oven cooks precisely and evenly. The burners are outstanding and will bring water to a boil quicker than anything that I have used, ever! The power burner also has a smaller burner in the center of it so that the flame covers the entire bottom of the pot or pan being used. All I can say is if you are wanting a new gas range, this is the one. I couldn't be more satisfied.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2604, "id": 6160, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 315, "len_tokens": 433, "text": "I have used this product now for about three weeks in my wicking dehumidifier. It doesn't work well. I put in a capful per gallon, just as the instructions say. When it wasn't working, I added even more. No dice.\n\nMy wife said, \"what's that smell. Like a rotten sock.\" It's the dehumidifier. A new, two month old dehumidifier. This BestAir stuff is expensive and simply not the best for treating the sitting water in devices that involve water reservoirs.\n\nWhat does work? Bleach. I got a one dollar bottle of plain household bleach at a dollar store, and keep it in the cabinet underneath the utility room sink where I refill the bucket (and carry it to the dehumidifier). I put in a teensy amount of bleach... less than a capful for three gallons of water (I was adding three capfuls of BestAir!). Barely enough to smell it (not enough to make my dehumidifier smell like a swimming pool, not enough to degrade the wick in the machine), and--Voila!--smell completely gone. Instantly. The dehumidifier smells clean and new again. Slightly pool-watery, but only if I use too much. Honestly, the one dollar, gallon bottle of bleach will likely last me a year or more.\n\nI;m very familiar with the detrimental effects of bleach on wicks,, cloth, even plastic, over time (swimming pool owner). The key is to use very little (a few drops) and to replace the wick in the machine every six months or so, regardless. It'll be keen. And I'm not \"breathing bleach\" anywhere near as much as someone doing laundry or swimming in a pool all summer. Again, add just so much that you can't even smell it. It takes, literally, drops.\n\nObviously, don;t spill bleach on the carpet. But, by same token, I wouldn't spill BestAir, either.\n\nSo, I found a better, vintage \"mousetrap\": household bleach.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2605, "id": 98461, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 313, "len_tokens": 406, "text": "We bought this refrigerator in January - Loved it except that the ice maker was not making any ice.  No biggee, right?  Just get it fixed under warranty, right?  They sent someone out with a new freezer drawer (???).  The ice maker did start working after that.  For a minute, then no ice again.  Called the repair guy back.  Lo and behold there was ice in the drawer on the day he arrived.  He went back to his company and said I had no problem.  Of course the unit only worked for a few days.\n\nI have been on the phone with Electrolux, Mr. Appliance, 2 Guys From Frigelandia, you name it...so much now, that I seriously wonder what I am doing with this refrigerator.\n\nToday, repair person number x came out.  He looked the unit over and announced to me that this refrigerator was never going to perform the way I want it to.  Several things:\n1.  All Electolux's fixes and upgrades have already been applied (circuit boards, seals, ...)\n2.  The fridge does not make a lot of ice under the best of circumstances.\n3.  It always stops ice production when you least expect it (like an old Fiat carburator - \"I think I'll just have an air lock today\")\n4.  The sure fire way to get it to start making ice is to turn the ice maker off and turn it back on after waiting at least one day.\n5.  The only way to insure you will have enough ice for football season is to buy it.\n\nJudging from what you all say, I will never get this fixed.\n\nTHERE SHOULD BE A RECALL OF THIS REFRIGERATOR.  It is a colossal lemon, and I do not recommend it to anyone.\n\nIt is now May.\n\nMay 13....Electrolux has informed me that I will get a new refrigerator...have not seen it yet.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2606, "id": 307352, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 351, "len_tokens": 417, "text": "First off, it should be said that in two separate places on the dryer, it says that it should only be used with outside venting for risk of fire, and since this was a big question I had, I feel it's important to start with that.  It's also important to check your lease agreement if you rent because you might be spending money only to have a maintenance guy tell you that it's not allowed when they come through and check the smoke alarms and they just happen to see it...\n\nThat being said, this little dryer works perfectly.  I use it in combination with a portable washer, and I find that if I keep the loads down to the size of the spin drum in the washer, the dryer will finish them off in under an hour.  Not bad at all for 110V.  It is a smaller dryer, so if you try to overload it, you risk damaging it, not to mention wasting energy because it will take much longer to dry.  I'm not really comfortable using the high heat setting with indoor venting in an apartment, but the medium and low settings dry everything just fine.  Solid construction, very sturdy.  I highly recommend!\n\nNote: You may want to sit with the unit the first few loads just to make sure there wasn't a defect in manufacturing or unseen damage during shipping.  There is potential for a fire to start and very quickly get out of hand.  At about 20 minutes or so before the end of the cycle, the heating element should turn off and the exhaust should be room temperature.  If the dryer is still blowing hot air and the cycle finishes, unplug the unit immediately, take out your clothes if you don't already see a fire, keep an extinguisher close-by, and if possible, take the unit outside.  Do not try to use the dryer again and send it back.  This didn't happen to me, but I've read other reviews about the heating element malfunctioning and though there were only one or two, that's enough to be cautious.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2607, "id": 305287, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 195, "len_tokens": 401, "text": "I bought this for my Maytag, bottom freezer, refrigerator.  I noticed that some of the things in the refrigerator section were starting to freeze.  I looked at the digital temp controls and the refrigerator setting had jumped up to 7 (coldest setting) and it wouldn't let me change it or enter diagnostics mode.\n\nUpon buying this item, it arrived a week before the estimated delivery date in a box that was way to big for the board.  The board was just sloppily wrapped in some bubble wrap.  As far as shipping container is concerned I would give it a 1 out of 5 stars.  At the same time it arrived unharmed so I can't complain to much I guess... Installation was a breeze when using the instructions found here: http://partsdr.com/blog/w10503278-control-board-service-replacement-info/ .  It took no more than 5 minutes to change out.  It works perfectly now!\n\nCross Reference Information:\nPart Number W10503278 (AP5656409) replaces 12784415, 12868513, W10165748, 67006740, 12002567, 12002339, 12002445, 12002449, 12002508, 12002509, 12002706, 12784415V, 12868502, 12868510, 2684578, 67003867, 67004453, 67004496, 67004907, 67005043, 67005280, 67005281, 67006034, 67006209, 67006214, 67006216, 67006226, 67006712, 8208187, PS5573854.\n\nOr simply go to http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-cntrl-elec-w10503278-ap5656409.html and enter your model number to check!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2608, "id": 190913, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 400, "len_tokens": 474, "text": "DO NOT BUY!\nI am a regular Amazon shopper and I think this is the 3rd time I've ever written a review because this particular product and the customer service is terrible.\nI bought in January 2014 for a remodel and installed in April 2014 (I needed to buy early for dimensions for cabinet maker).  The cooler started getting warmer and warmer three months ago.  I tried everything on their website, reducing items in cooler, thawing, etc.\nIf you read the reviews, it is true. This cooler will die sometime between 18 and 24 months.\nAnd if you contact customer service, they will give you three options, all of which is up to you and on your dime/time UNLESS you buy an Extended Warranty which is what they tell you.  Your options will be: (copy and pasted from my exchange with them)\n1.) Contact a local service provider that is willing to repair the unit. You will incur any diagnostic fees, and labor charges to repair the unit. You will also be responsible for purchasing parts.\n2.) Contact EdgeStar Support to obtain a Return Authorization to send the unit to the EdgeStar Authorized Repair facility, and you would incur all costs of shipping to and from the repair facility, cost of packaging the item properly, and the cost of parts and labor.\n3.) Purchase replacement parts for the product and find a local service provider to repair the unit. You would pay the service provider any installation fees.\n\nWhen I asked for help diagnosing problem and for parts, their actual quote was\n\"I'm not going to waste my time reading your complaints when you are responsible for your choices and actions.\" - since I did not buy an extended warranty.\nThey kept insinuating I was asking for a free replacement which I NEVER did. (I have whole email transcript if you'd like me to send to you).\nFor $699, I would expect this product to last longer than 24 months!  And felt they should at least help me with parts or tech support.  NOPE!\nI am a reasonable person and get that products can fail but it was the amazing (NOT!) customer service at the end that prompted me to post this review.\nLooking for a new cooler now....\nAmazon, please pay attention to the quality of the products and the customer service we get from this manufacturer.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2609, "id": 236739, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 391, "len_tokens": 466, "text": "I got this item because the tab in the freezer door broke.  After a bunch of surfing, the other option seemed to be a new door (which is the price of a new fridge).  I am a bit disappointed that he tab broke after 3 years, but that is not this items problem.\nIt arrived on time, and was packaged in a small box.  It had a bag full of parts, and instructions.  The instructions were 3 pages in English and 3 pages in another language (I assume Spanish).  They were a little hard to follow, because I did not know the names of the items they were talking about.  Like the \"Ice lever spring\" or the \"damper\" or the \"CMDA\".  However, with my half brain, I was able to figure it out - just took me longer than a professional.  The hardest part was removing the front face of the in door feature.  The web came in handy here.  The pictures on the instructions were in black and white, not diagrams, what looked like small JPEG pictures turned to black and white.  Again, they were helpful after studying them and then looking at the fridge, and back at the picture.  The details were not very clear, but I took my time, and if this half wit can do it - anyone I am sure can.\n\nThe parts bag contains a new door not seen in the picture.\n\nInstallation took about 40 minutes.  But like I said - I took my time, looked at stuff several times, and test fit stuff, to make sure I was understanding the directions.  Upon completion of the installation - all works probably as good as when we bought it.  The ice door clamps closed quickly after use, probably due to the new dash pot (mine broke into 2 upon removal).  At first I thought the full bag of parts was a waste, since only my bracket broke.  After installation, I did notice my old door and chute level had some issues with them as well.  (The instructions comment that the parts may have been broken during the failure of the original hinge).\n\nI would buy this product again if I had another fridge with the same issue.  Being metal - I hope I will not need another one for this fridge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2610, "id": 35066, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 381, "len_tokens": 454, "text": "After studying in California where the weather is relatively constant, I moved to Germany where one's reeds are exposed to the humidity, temperature, and air pressure changes that come with the gamut of weather in a years' cycle. Most frustrating for me was having the heater dry out my house in winter so that each morning all of my reeds would be bone-dry and warped wide-open. I'd have to pinch the wires shut to be able to play on them, but after about 20 minutes of warm-up, I would have to pinch the wires open again and constantly adjust while I played. A reed that had great response and flexibility one day would break my heart the next. I also found that reeds which treated me great in Germany weren't nearly as playable in California. Tired of having my practicing marred by the inconsistency of my reeds from day to day, I bought this reed case. I assumed it was a gimmick, but seeing as it was so inexpensive I figured I'd give it a try. So far I am very happy with it. A reed left in the case overnight will have the same qualities the next morning.\n  I am still somewhat apprehensive about leaving my reeds in any airtight environment, but I think the humidity packet must be doing its job of absorption because even after having played on all 5 reeds in the case before putting them away for the night, there does not seem to be excess moisture built up inside the case or on the reeds. Still, I make sure brush my teeth before I play and to clean my reeds out with pipe cleaners and dry them off after I play on them to avoid any sort of gnarly bacteria situation.\n  Last weekend I traveled abroad for an audition. When I arrived, all 5 of the reeds in the case had the same tone and response that they did at my house in Germany. (Not that I brought any reeds in a different case in order to compare... I was a little more preoccupied with the audition than with the scientific process.) Unfortunately, the case did nothing for my double-tonguing or finger technique and I ended up totally screwing up the Beethoven 4 excerpt (crap!)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2611, "id": 457831, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 357, "len_tokens": 419, "text": "++++++++++++++++\nUpdate: After 3 years of use the Water/Ice dispenser arm broke in the *flow* position and partially flooded my kitchen. Luckily my wife caught it in time before it did major damage. The arm broke because it was under tension by the return spring and the plastic just gave way and fractured after 3 years of use.\n\nAlso the only way to repair is to buy the whole Dispenser module for around $90 plus shipping. You cannot just buy the broken piece.\n\nFYI: The front control console will cost close to $500 to replace. So purchasing additional warratny is advisable. I wish I did!!!\n++++++++++++++++\n\nI actually have the EW26SS65GS which only differs slightly with the touch controls.\n\nThe high point of this refrigerator that makes it stand out from the crowd is that it is fully constructed in stainless steel while the others just have stainless steel cladding in the front but not on the sides.\n\nThis makes for a handsome refrigerator since this is not a counter depth model so the sides show.\n\nBoth freezer and refrigerator interior has ample storage. The interior lights have a nice effect of being initally dim at first and then fully brightens up.\n\nA good point is the vacation mode you can set that saves electricity  by not turning on the defrosting cycle when you are away.\n\nMy only grievance is the the design of the ice dispenser which delivers the ice (both cubes and crushed) which such force and intensity that the ice is spilled all over the floor and a clean up is always necessary. My 4 year old kid is so afraid to use it.\n\nThe delivery men do not install the water dispenser hose so I had to do it myself and it was somewhat of an effort threading it properly. I mis-threaded the first hose and had to buy an aftermarket replacement at $7. It seems that the original hose is hard to find item.\n\nFor the $2,500 we paid for it, we expected that the Ice dispenser flaw would have been discoverd and remedied before production.\n\nFYI: unit made in Mexico.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2612, "id": 310554, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 349, "len_tokens": 418, "text": "After my parents told me that they watched a youtube video on how to fix their washing machine and fixed it... that was when I figured if they could do that I don't have an excuse not to!\nDon't waste your time with attempts at diagnostics. If you see the dreaded \"OE\" error and during drain cycle the noise is a little louder than usual and the machine just gets stuck there: Drain the water using the little hose (open the front door below the main door) it's on the left (you won't miss it)- the little hose is there. You might need a large vessel.  Once drained remove the filter- if there's no clog: - order this part quick, and you'll get it in 24 to 48 hours. Most you tube techs show full pain in the a** disassembly way starting with the top, after getting a hand from a friend dropping the 200lb 2007 dark red LG TROMM on it's side, then I popped the bottom open like I saw in a non-pro video...\nUse old school screw driver when tightening new pump into place (else you'll kill the thread and will need to use spare holes with existing screws or go with a slightly larger screw.)  Feel challenged? Take pictures of everything as you disassemble one step at a time. And don't mix up which motor wire goes where!\n\nIf you got that pedestal aka storage base under the washer, you'll have to pop the stickers on all 4 plates connecting the base to the washer. Due to vibration and failure of the double sided adhesive tape (hey it was industrial strength a decade ago, but a decade later it's a joke) on the 4 connecting plates, used self tapping small screws to connect the upper part of each plate to the washer's body.\n\nBelieve in yourself! You are only 2 hours away from a working washer once you pop the pump parcel open. Ancient people knew how to make their shoes, clothing, dwellings, you name it! This is just a stupid washing machine :)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2613, "id": 87355, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2614, "id": 211506, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 349, "len_tokens": 443, "text": "The good:\n*  It's compact and works in a condo development like mine where you're not allowed to have a washer or dryer\n*  It fits into a closet\n*  It doesn't use much water at all\n*  It saves you hiking all the way to the laundromat\n*  It really chugs away and gets clothes nice and clean\n*  The spinner is excellent, and gets clothes a lot dryer than most machines\n*  The price is right\n*  You can set the water temperature exactly how you want it (because you're filling it yourself and can adjust the water from the sink\n\nThe not-so-good (?):\n*  THIS IS NOT AN AUTOMATIC MACHINE.  If you're a first-world person and you're used to things happening all by themselves when you push a button, then this is NOT for you.  You have to pour in the water, set the wash cycle, pump out the water, pour in new water for the rinse, tell the machine to pump out the water again, move the clothes to the spinner on the right, etc.\n*  The machine is very powerful, so it's not really good for super-delicate things.  I tried to put delicates in a mesh bag, like somebody else suggested, but the machine just tore up the mesh bag.  So perhaps do delicates separately, and then only run the cycle for 2 minutes or so.\n*  Be careful not to add too much detergent.  It's kind of hard to get all of the bubbles out at the end if you use what you'd think is a regular amount.\n*  You can't do a bunch of loads all at once, like you can at the laundromat, or do a super-big load.  That said, I am able to wash a complete set of queen sized sheets, plus a towel, and it works just fine.\n\nBottom line:  I was moving back to the US from the Third World, and therefore thought this thing was pretty nifty.  My family, who has never lived outside the US, thinks it's quirky and funny, and wonders why I use it...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2615, "id": 285767, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 388, "len_tokens": 467, "text": "This dishwasher was purchased last October from the Brick.  The first service call was in May of this year.  It was purchased with an extended warranty!!! To date this dishwasher officially has been looked at six different times to my account.  According to TransGlobal there has only been 4 service calls on it.  What I have learned that many of this companies (Sears, The brick, Homedepot) will use different service providers at different times in order to get around their \"3 major service\" protocol before we replace or  credit you the cost of the dishwasher.\nBack to the washer>>MAJOR DESIGN FLAW that keeps on giving the repair man a run for their money!!  It has to do with the bubble on the upper right hand of the tub.  Essentially it draws out the steam when drying (steam)!! Rather then venting out towards the counter, the side vent, this one runs from the  top right side of the tub down the side and onto a \"drain reservoir\"  Now remember steam is supposed to come out and there should not be no trouble the repair man said!!!!Instead the float comes into contact with the water \"steam\" and the drain sensor is SET OFF\nI have read the I30 message on the board countless times.  I have tried to reset the dishwasher, both by manual instructions and flipping the power switch on and off!!!!  Until the water has been completely removed and the float no longer makes contact with the water, the dishwasher will not resume it's normal function.  So, I have come to the end of the road with this dishwasher!!!  I now wait for a decision to be made on a replacement or credit from The Brick.  This appliance uses a ton of water and I mean a ton!!  Never really had a problem with clean dishes.  Drying cycle is super long too, but I guess we can't change that either.  So you know I had to ask the repair man what his choice would be if he had to replace it!!\nBosch or Kitchen Aid he says.  Bosch will be my choice moving forward I hope.  I have learned a lot of things throughout this long painful process, but yet the most important one is to always spend the extra bucks and buy yourself an Extended Warranty!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2616, "id": 116388, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 370, "len_tokens": 416, "text": "Water leaks from the bottom of the door and runs onto the floor frequently. I have managed to keep this somewhat under control by cleaning the rubber door seal and the glass around the door after each load of clothes. Which is time consuming. But something unexpected happened to me while I was washing a load of clothes that I want to warn everybody about. A button got trapped between the rubber door seal and the clear glass in the door. The shirt with the button quickly twisted into a large knot around the other clothes in the load. Since it was trapped so tightly it pulled the entire rubber seal from the front, along with a metal ring and spring. All of this was tangled with each other and hanging at the top with water when I opened the door to the machine. Thankfully I was home to hear the strange noises coming from the machine to stop it. After untangling everything the door seal is stretched beyond repair where the button was trapped. I lost my favorite shirt since it made a hole where the button was. I also spend an hour cleaning up water from the floor and untangling the clothes from the spring and rubber gasket. I had to order a new seal from Whirlpool for a whopping charge of 117.00. I'm  experienced at washing clothes for my 50ish age and have not experienced or seen anything like this. And when loading the washer I have always under loaded the clothes even though it says high capacity. With my grown children saying good grief mom you can fill it up. Also, I always glance back before closing the door to make sure nothing is blocking the door. When it came time to order the rubber door gasket from Whirlpool I asked if anyone else has this problem with their washer  I got the expected answer. Don't know I'm not a repair tech specialist. Oh, they did ask if I wanted to buy some Affresh at a special price. So to wrap things up I wouldn't recommend using the washer unless you are going to be located close to it. I'm really afraid to use it again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2617, "id": 192294, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 281, "len_tokens": 438, "text": "Recently I noticed a slight chlorine odor and taste after 8 months on the original filter. I purchased the water sentinel with high hopes given the positive reviews. The lower price was also attractive. I received the single filter 48 hours later. Unfortunately, after running a 4 gallon flush (water was a little cloudy during first gallon), the chlorine odor and taste were very strong. I was pretty surprised as the odor was was far stronger with this new filter compared to the old one I just replaced. I reseated the filter and flushed again, no change. I then purchased a Samsung filter locally, installed and flushed and there was not hint of chlorine. Closer review of the what each filter will remove shows significantly more stuff is removed by the Samsung filter compared to the Water Sentinel:\n\nSamsung Part Number DA29-00020B\nFilter Life 6 months\nCapacity 300 gallons\nFlow Rate 0.5 gallons per minute\nOperating Pressure 30 - 125 psi\nOperating Temperature 34 - 100 degrees Fahrenheit\nMicron Rating 0.5 microns\nActual Size 8 7/8 inches (length) x 2 inches (diameter)\nRemoves 97.4% of Chlorine\n98% of Particulates (Class I)\n99.3% of Lead at pH 6.5\n99.3% of Lead at pH 8.5\n94.6% of Atrazine\n96.7% of Benzene\n99% of Asbestos\n99.99% of Cysts\n99% of Lindane\n99.1% of Turbidity\n*The DA29-00020B does not remove fluoride.\n\nWater Sentinel Part Number WSS-2\nFilter Life 6 months\nCapacity 300 gallons\nFlow Rate 0.5 gallons per minute\nOperating Pressure 30 - 100 psi\nOperating Temperature 33 - 100 degrees Fahrenheit\nActual Size 8 7/8 inches (length) x 2 inches (diameter)\nRemoves Chlorine\nBad Taste and Odor\nSediment\n*The WSS-2 does not remove fluoride", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2618, "id": 87659, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2619, "id": 482656, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 330, "len_tokens": 409, "text": "I believe that this is one of the better consumer-grade ranges. I like its looks, it is easy to clean around the burners, and it has decent performance. Over the past year, I've been using the it mostly for the stovetop, but occasionally baking. The 18kBTU burner performs well, though for wok-style cooking, I'd rather have even more power. The large burner isn't able to provide a low flame, but that's OK since I can use the other burners (though it's a hassle to ask my housemates to not use the big burner with small pots.... they flame is just too wide for that).\n\nThe oven temperature seems pretty true. I've noticed that when the oven is first turned on, it preheats to about 50 degrees above the setpoint, but it evens out after that. Once it's stable, in 410 degree F convection bake mode, the temperature stays between 401 and 417 degrees. That being said, I believe that an electric oven would have been a better choice.\n\nI've had small cracks develop in the gas burner knobs where they attach to the valves. I was able to repair them with duct tape, but the design could have been better. Also, I feel like a huge amount of heat is vented from the oven under the control panel, so the \"convection\" electric element cannot keep the oven hot by itself (so the gas burner turns on fairly often during convection bake, at least at 410 F). I'd highly recommend a range hood that vents to the outside over this unit.\n\nThe proofing mode of the oven is nice, as it keeps it at about 100 F (perfect for bacterial growth). I've never used the warming tray (i store cookie sheets in it).\n\nPerhaps some of the Kenmore ranges might be a better buy when compared to this one, but the FX710 is a solid performer. (and the pasture is always greener on the other side).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2620, "id": 57008, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 351, "len_tokens": 430, "text": "Bought this device a few months back and finally got around to using it (my wife made me).  We have flexible aluminum venting attached to our dryer running about 8 feet in length.  It was a long way from being plugged, but the dust bunnies were a tad bigger than I thought they would be.  Mostly, I wanted to clean it to reduce the potential fire hazard.  There was definitely enough lint in the vent to create a fire that would move all the way through the vent.\n\nWe have those louvered vinyl vents outside that refuse to come off, so running the auger brush from the outside was not possible.  It wouldn't fit through the louvers.  The long brush would fit through the louvers but it wouldn't make the 90 degree turn down to the basement.  So, we just disconnected the vent from both ends and laid it out on the floor.  We hooked the shop vac up to the adapter and twisted the auger brush through by hand several times while suctioning.  That didn't cut it in that a lot of lint was left inside.  I used the provided drill adapter and ran it in and out twice with my cordless drill.  Big difference.  That hummer was pretty dang clean and the filter on our shop vac was completely covered with lint.\n\nWe vacuumed out the vent at the back of the dryer.  I then used the long brush by hand and shoved it in and out of the lint trap while running the shop vac.  The brush went in quite a distance and pulled out some good size wads of lint.  Obviously, the lint trap doesn't \"trap\" very well.  Some caution is in order when doing this.  I had to keep twisting the flexible rod clockwise while working in the lint trap.  The brush kept trying to work itself loose, and I didn't feel like disassembling the dryer to get the brush out.\n\nSeveral minutes later (along with some mumbled cursing), I got the vent reattached and we were good to go.  Glad I bought this device.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2621, "id": 86902, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 362, "len_tokens": 469, "text": "Wow - If I had read some of these reviews ahead of time. We would have spent a bit more money for a better unit,(we spent $500) or at least a better product.  Thought we had done our homework.  No one goes in thinking...oh I'm going out and buying a Bad Product today.  We purchased this 15\" EdgeStar 94 Can Silver Trim Built In  Locking Beverage Cooler unit, May 19 2012.  From the beginning the thing is louder than our dishwasher.  Seriously.  We couldn't believe all that was coming from such a small unit.  Our refrigerator when making ice cubes is quieter.  Then there's the mysterious increase in our electric bill.  I know its advertised that there will be a modest increase.  But that's not what we're seeing.  So to the real problem.  Two weeks ago the unit started icing up.  Not a small amount, but chunks of ice on the grates, in the back of the unit.  I tried reducing the temperature.  I tried removing items from the refrigerator, until there was nothing left inside.  Everyday I've had to empty it out and remove the ice.  Googled information states: Ice build up will only make the problem worse and must be removed.  So we contacted Ideal Wine Coolers who were more than happy to give us the service number to Edgestar.  I talked with Michael in the customer service dept.  He said Ice build up is normal.  He really wasn't much help and offered two words.  Yes and No.  When pressed he added it could be from the temperature in the room or in the unit.  That the unit does not self defrost.  When pressed further he said factory warranty is 90 days and 1 year for parts.  Obviously they are aware of this ice build up.  I haven't found any place where they state this is a normal function of the product.  Who wants to bend over and get on their knee's daily to clean out a tiny refrigerator.  So pretty much I'm to just shut up and put up.  Since buying it we notice Edgestar now calls it a 80can unit.  But uses the same Model number hmmmm.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2622, "id": 103808, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 347, "len_tokens": 432, "text": "I have owned 3 Bosch dishwashers over the years (also own a Bosch washer and a Bosch dryer) and used to think they were fantastic but not any more.  My last one has been nothing but trouble and Bosch support is (as always) non-existent.  This one worked fine (not great) for the first year and just after the warranty ran out began to malfunction.  About 16 months into my ownership, this Bosch dishwasher started immediately skipping to \"clean\" as follows:  the pump would run for about 10 seconds, then there was a weak sound of water for another 20 seconds, then the pump would cycle again for 15 seconds and then the \"clean\" light would illuminate.  In reality nothing had happened.  I could 'fool' the machine by turning it off and on during the second pump cycle (described above) after which the machine seems to proceed normally through its cycle.  But even that is hard to know because Bosch dishwashers are completely uninformative to the user about what they are doing.  A very helpful independent authorized Bosch serviceman replaced the dishwasher's circuit board (the part but not labor were under warranty) but the situation continues unchanged.  So after 18 months of ownership I am now in the market for a new dishwasher and it certainly (never again) will NOT be a Bosch.  Too bad that such a traditionally great brand has been allowed to deteriorate so much.\n==============\nUpdate:  In \"fairness\" to Bosch, my primitive work-around described above of turning off and on the machine continues to work four years later but this brute-force remedy remains annoying to say the least.  And, of course, I will need to replace the unit when I sell my house because what buyer would want to deal with this \"solution\".  Bosch service (most recently for our Bosch dryer) without doubt remains the worst in the industry with a \"customer last\" attitude that is breath taking and factory techs who are either lazy (first one) or incompetent (second one).  Truly very sad to see a formerly great brand sink so low.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2623, "id": 464527, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 346, "len_tokens": 439, "text": "I purchased this unit from a local store about four years ago when I purchased a Thermador duel fuel stove.  The finish was alright, but the engineering was very poor.  Although it is not the top of the line hood, for 700.00, I expect it to work properly.  Within the first year, some of the buttons, there are four, started to pop off when I turned it up or down.  The fan speed and lights are controlled by metal (Chrome, not stainless steel) push buttons.  Unfortunately, the push button subassembly (plastic prongs) that receive the metal buttons are a different shape than the inside of the buttons.  So essentially, and quite literally, you have a square peg going into a round hole.  Over time, they loosen and no longer grip the buttons.  I know this, because I kept the subassembly, after I had the appliance repairman, put in a new assembly for close to 300.00.  Now, after another two years, the second unit is failing.  Another poor design element is the lights.  To replace them, you need to use a star key bit and hope that you do not loose the screws as you are taking them out of what feels like flimsy sheet metal.  So, you always need a tool to change the lights.  I have fat fingers and fitting the bulb into the socket feels like playing a game of operation.  I do not plan to throw good money after bad again.  I failed to mention that when this happened the first time, just out of the one year warranty, Thermador offered to sell me the replacement part at a 10% discount.  A very generous offer indeed.  Did I mention the stove (4500.00),  I had a circuit board go out on it the first six months.  The repair was 600.00, but the factory warranty covered it.  I also had a burner issue that required a repair the first month and have had a couple other small issues.  It cooks fine and looks great, but I expect more for an appliance that costs this much.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2624, "id": 461220, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 411, "len_tokens": 483, "text": "I was looking for a good replacement for my 11-year-old GE gas dryer.  I didn't want a lot of fancy computers, knobs, lights, and other things that break.  I found this dryer on a major home improvement store website but it was not available in the store, only in their web store.  I had no idea that Amazon carried major appliances so I was surprised when I found the very same model for less money.  I took what I thought was a big risk and ordered it.  I wasn't sure how the delivery for such a large item would work with Amazon but I have had some recent experiences returning items and Amazon has been great to work with.  They actually have a phone number and will call you within minutes when you need to talk to a real person...eat your heart out Apple!  Well the dryer was delivered today by the JB Hunt trucking company, the best delivery company I have ever worked with...leave it to Amazon.  They called two days ahead to schedule the delivery, and again the night before to confirm.  The Driver called 30 minutes prior to delivery and confirmed yet again.  The truck arrived on time and the dryer was unloaded, uncrated, presented for my inspection, and moved into the garage.\nI had to make a couple of trips to the hardware store to get new gas fittings because the fittings on the new dryer were different than the GE and I wanted to replace the exhaust vent.  After I hooked everything up I dried my first load.  This is where the really good news begins! I used the recommended energy saver setting and to my surprise I could hear the end of cycle signal in my family room.  It's plenty loud.  I decided to not pay attention and test the dryer's ability to keep the clothes tumbling after the heat shuts off.  I waited for two additional signals then went out to the garage and unloaded.  As I folded the clothes I couldn't help but notice how evenly they were dried and how much softer they were than clothes dried in my old dryer.  The machine is also a lot quieter.\nI have now dried three loads, all with the same results.  Assuming the machine keeps working this well it would be very difficult to justify paying more.  For me this is what true value is all about.  Thank you Amazon and JB Hunt trucking.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2625, "id": 68742, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 382, "len_tokens": 454, "text": "I bought these dishwashers and had them set up on each side of my sink to have to keep from bending due to back problems.  THAT is the only benefit to these dishwashers.  I was doing an updated kitchen and though they would look sharp.  Well, that is the ONLY good thing I can say about them.\n\nCleaning my kitchen is now a nightmare as you can hardly fit anything in these.  The racks seem to be set up strangely as often the plates lie right against one another making it a common practice to have to rewash items.  I have taken to doing a rinse cycle for any dishes that I am not going to wash immediately.  Forget the normal cycle or the light cycle...they are worthless.  I have to wash everything on heavy duty or nothing comes clean.  Even then I often find soap residue on dishes and have to rewash them. And the cycles last forever...I think the heavy duty cycle must last about 3 hours.  Fortunately they are extremely quiet.\n\nUnlike some of the others reviews I have had no maintenance problems with these, except that every now and then you cannot get it function as far as selecting modes to wash on.  I have to open the drawer as many as 10 or 15 times to be able to get the lights to come on so you can choose a setting.  The service people can find nothing wrong with it, but I have noticed that keeping that part of the machine wiped down well seems to help.\n\nThese dishwashers have made my life a nightmare.  They are pretty, and they do keep you from bending over...with a bad back I thought they were the perfect solution...NOT\n\nThey cost a small fortune and the truth is the cheapest dishwashers on the market (I have one in my 2nd home) cleans better than these.\n\nRUN DO NOT WALK from anyone who tries to sell you this piece of junk.  Nearly $2000 out the window, and the way mine are configured on each side of the sink, with drawers below mean I cannot take them out a replace them with a decent dishwasher.\n\nI bought these about 5 years ago...and not a day goes by that I don't curse them.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2626, "id": 446260, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 346, "len_tokens": 434, "text": "After searching high and low for the perfect built in beverage center I came accros this sucka!  I've never heard of this brand... who the heck is Avallon?  it sounds like it came out of a sci-fi movie.  I didn't know much about beverage centers, actually, come to think of it, I don't know much about anything, but one thing I did know for sure, and that is that I like my beverages really cold.  Nothing like a can of coca cola with ice flakes on it.  especially after being mowing 3 acres in the hot weather here in Texas.  The other thing I did know as well was that it needed to fit under my kitchen island and it needed to look sexy, but being the frugal person that I am ( some people might call me a tightwad) I didn't want to spend a million dollars.  This is the only fridge that fit the bill.  At $900 it isn't exactly what I would call cheap, but it's the lowest priced fridge I could find that promised to deliver cold drinks.  So I sold my dog and put out all the money on this guy.  I actually bought it from a different site as an open box item (told ya I was cheap).  I paid like $650 delivered.  I've had it for about 2 weeks and love this thing.  It's very quiet when running, blue lights are awesome, it's very sexy looking and cold as a mother.  took my first zip out of that really cold coca cola and tears were running down my cheek.  Not because I'm a very sensitive guy, but because those ice crystals were hard on my throat.  After having it down to 34, all my water bottles were frozen solid, so I've moved it up to 35 and see what happens.  I was skeptical at first, but I'm a believer now.  If you are like me, stop messing around and wasting time researching.  get this thing and you will not look back.  I'll upload a pic one of these days.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2627, "id": 335083, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 217, "len_tokens": 404, "text": "I purchased a Clasico Rosa Desktop Humidor from Cuban Crafters from Amazon, which also came with an analog hygrometer, but I wanted to ensure the analog hygrometer was accurately reporting relative humidity (RH), I purchased this Qooltek Mini Digital Hygrometer Thermometer. I also purchased Boveda 84% RH and 69% RH 2-way humidity control packets. I calibrated both the analog hygrometer and this digital hygrometer following the humidor company's instructions. When the RH reached 75%, I added the 4-pack of Boveda 84% RH 2-way humidity control packets to the humidor along with the analog and digital hygrometers. As outlined by Boveda, I allowed the packets to season the humidor for 14 days. At the end of 14 days I checked the analog and digital hygrometers, and the digital hygrometer show the RH to be 69% and the analog hygrometer showed RH to be 70%. After another 24 hour period both the analog and digital hygrometers read the same RH 69%. I am pleased with the Qooltek Mini Digital Hygrometer Thermometer. It does exactly what Qooltek states the digital hygrometer Thermometer will do. I would buy it again and recommend this product to others.<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Qooltek-Mini-Digital-Hygrometer-Thermometer-Indoor-Humidity-Monitor-with-Temperature-Humidity-Gauge-Meter-for-Cars-Incubators-and-Brooders-Climb-Pet-Fahrenheit/dp/B00PQ4RM7O/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Qooltek Mini Digital Hygrometer Thermometer Indoor Humidity Monitor with Temperature Humidity Gauge Meter for Cars Incubators and Brooders Climb Pet (Fahrenheit)</a>", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2628, "id": 456938, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 365, "len_tokens": 445, "text": "This refrigerator looks amazing and seems to have all the features you'd want, but once you own it like we do, all the flaws come out.  It's a *terrible* refrigerator.\n\nFirst, the icemaker.  It jams - a LOT. The paddle that detects if ice is in the bin sticks and it thinks it's full when it's not.  So when you NEED ice, you find an almost-empty bin.  Then when it IS working, if you open the drawer with the ice bin, and leave it open too long (1 min?) it will think the bin is empty (because it's pulled out) and dump the waiting ice in the tray all over the inside of the freezer OUTSIDE the drawers.  TERRIBLE design.\n\nThe second drawer that's inside the bottom drawer has a finish plate that is plastic and lasted less than a month before it broke, and about 4 months before it broke off completely and couldn't be replaced so it would stay on.  Also the track it it set on came ajar in about 6 months.\n\nThe door alarm is not sensitive enough.  We had a situation where ice that was dumped into the freezer casing (as described above) prevented the bottom door from closing 100%.  There was about 1mm of space between the seal and the refrigerator housing, but it was enough to heat up the freezer.  We didn't realize what was happening until we went to get ice cream and it was soft.  The freezer had warmed up to about 28 degrees from 0.  The door alarm never sounded, and there's no freezer alarm (a MAJOR oversight with this refrigerator's design flaws).  We could have lost all the food in the freezer had it gone on overnight.\n\nThe water dispenser has no light, so at night you need to turn on a light to get water accurately in a bottle or something with a small neck.  Another stupid oversight.\n\nWe would NEVER buy nor recommend buying this kind of design again.  We're going back to straight up side by side on our next freezer, and this one will be going down the road long before it should because we hate it so much.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2629, "id": 276152, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 319, "len_tokens": 404, "text": "These are good for the price.\n\nThe product can be made great with modification.  The included (and pre-applied) tape is high-strength, but its just not going to cut it for this purpose.  No sticky tape will.  I wish they would have no pre-applied it, so that I could have used it for some other purpose.  Not a big deal, I still sort of used it.\n\nFirst thing I did was cut out and remove most of the tape.  I only left a half inch or so border.  I then scored the bare plastic (where the tape is now removed) with a knife.  Mark and tape the rectangle where you will be attaching this.  Score or scuff it and clean with alcohol pads.  Get yourself some 30 minute or longer cure epoxy.  Mix it. Fill in the the de-taped and scored space on the pads with epoxy.  Peel off the tape label.  Press and hold the pad to the surface of the fridge or whatever that you previously marked and taped off.  The sticky tape ends up helping because it will hold it in place well while the epoxy dries, and will also prevent it from leaking.  Wait the recommend time for cure of epoxy.  When cured, these will now (truly) be permanently attached and secure.  For the stuff I used, that was 24 hours.\n\nUsing this method, these are, ugh, never coming off...ever.  You can lift the whole mini fridge full of stuff using this product and there is no way these are coming off.  The beauty with this product is that if I ever decide to repurpose the fridge and not need to lock it anymore, its not a big deal.  The cable part is removable, and only the bases will remain.  You can hang a bottle opener or whatever from it.  Basically, you really cant go wrong by (truly) permanently installing these.\n\nI would buy this again", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2630, "id": 296993, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 370, "len_tokens": 468, "text": "If you live in an apartment and lack a washing machine, and are willing to do some labour to get clean clothes, this machine will do it for you.  You will need a drying rack of some kind, right off the bat.  You must do small loads, and use very little soap.  And frankly, it's easier to fill the wash tub with a bucket from the bathtub spigot than trying to hook the tiny plastic hose to the sink (and then stand there to hold it because it won't stay on by itself).  But this thing really does get clothes clean.  It's a few steps up from Victorian technology with dollys and mangles, but the principle is the same.  The spin cycle is efficient and most clothes are dry by the next day.  (Denims can take longer, as can any heavy fabric.)  It can handle a set of queen sheets, and it can handle full-sized bath towels.  The trick really is in load size.  This isn't a fancy HE front-loader that you can dump a week's worth of washing into and let it go.  We generally stick with a pair of denims, a handful of shirts, and a handful of socks/underwear/etc for each load.  That keeps it balanced, and a wash cycle of 9-12 minutes gets things properly clean.  Sometimes, lint is an issue, but a good shake-out of dry clothes and keeping a lint roller about solves that issue.  It uses less resources than a regular washing machine, and when we're done, we hang our clothes on a drying rack and push the Panda back into our bathroom linen closet.  It's not perfect, but it's far better than going to a laundromat or hiking up and down stairs to our apartment complex basement to pay $2.00 for a wash and $3.00 for a dry, and in the summertime, I appreciate not having to run a dryer in my apartment.  Frankly, I think this thing is more environmentally friendly as well.  Like I said, it's not perfect and you do have to do some labour with it yourself -- it isn't a hands-off process.  But it gets the job done efficiently, and our clothes come out clean every time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2631, "id": 81281, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 415, "len_tokens": 476, "text": "So after months of manually turning the drum to get the clutch to engage and spin the durn clothes, I checked out Amazon and found this kit. It's a fraction of the cost of the factory OEM kit that I priced locally. I figured I'd roll the dice and buy this one instead and if it failed, I'd run up the street and get the factory one.\n\nBest money I have spent in some time. This kit is outstanding. It comes well finished and all the parts seem to be as well built as the old one I replaced. It even comes with the extra spring for compact washers.\n\nSo I set out replacing the clutch by watching a great video how to on Youtube. I had all the tools required (1/2 inch socket, 1/4 inch socket, flat standard screwdriver, needle nose pliers, etc) and got started. All the parts in this kit fit great and there were no issues nor modifications made to get them installed.\n\nIf you can move a washing machine outside like I did it will make the job that much easier. I hate doing jobs like this in cramped quarters and don't have a garage to work in. The hardest part of the job was removing the motor/transmission assembly from the cabinet and drum. Everything else is easy and requires little strength.\n\nShipping was lightning quick. I don't think it took but two or three days tops to find it in the mailbox.\n\nI am on my second load of towels now. I ran a light load to test it and then a heavy load to test it even more. Shes spinning away on the final spin cycle right now.\n\nI haven't had this machine that long and I can already tell that the clothes are coming out drier than before...even when the machine was relatively new. That will probably cut down on my drying time and it won't take long to save the low price of the part in electricity and pay for itself.\n\nGreat product. Five stars. I took the money that I saved on hiring a repairman and went to a local big box store and dropped 85 bucks on a set of hand trucks. I am tired of renting them and always seem to be needing a set. So the trucks and the part and I am right at the 100 dollar mark....about what a repair person would charge just to drive out and diagnose it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2632, "id": 467669, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 351, "len_tokens": 426, "text": "Replaced an aging and very noisy GE dryer rear bearing assembly. Removal and installation of the bearing set is easy, if you follow the online instructions in Youtube. The accompanying instructions provided, looked just like my GE electric dryer from the front, but once inside, it is a different picture. Knowing how to disassemble the dryer, and removing the drive belt and drum assembly, it came down to the bearing two pieces to replace. Starting with the dryer drum, removal and installation is fairly straight forward. The heater coil pan assembly is a little bit more involved. STOP here. Let me point out, that you should have a SHOP Vacuum handy and are using it along the tear down and assembly process. Dust and dryer lint is everywhere you can't see it, so remember to vacuum everything and everywhere while inside the unit. Removing three of the mounting screws on the heater pan will not give you enough clearance to gain access to get the pilot bearing out when it drops behind the pan. Loosen the top left pan screw, without removing it and retrieve the pilot bearing assembly. And, vacuum the area with extreme prejudice. Install the new pilot bearing assembly to the heater cil pan, mount heater coil pan and check for more loose DUST bunnies anywhere in there, because you and I both know, you have no plans to do this again, or anytime soon! SUGGESTION: Replace old or worn components, i.e. drive belt, Idler pulley, Idler pulley sensor/switch, etc before reassembling your refurbished dryer. My handiwork lasted two weeks before the drive belt shredded because of a seized Idler pulley and due to the snap-back of the idler pulley rod, it broke the Idler pulley safety switch, thus rendering the dryer, DEAD! All failed parts replaced, New parts on order thru Amazon.com for next time and the house is very happy home for all to live here to have the electric dryer up and running. Very satisfied with both the product and Amazon.com price and look forward to making future purchase, again, and again, and again, ....", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2633, "id": 464863, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 335, "len_tokens": 411, "text": "I've been cooking and baking for over 40 years, in all sorts of apartments and old homes and I would have to say that this is absolutely the worst stove I have ever used.  Yes, I agree with all who say that the timer is strange, that the glass stove top developed scratches after 4 months of use and is difficult to clean.  But, the worst is baking.\n\nI love to bake and I was excited to have an electric oven, which in my experience are more reliable than gas ovens.  Now, I know this isn't true.  We have roasted chickens, baked pies and bread, rhubarb crisp -- all sorts of good stuff that turned out terribly because it is impossible to brown anything in this oven.  We purchased an expensive oven thermostat to check the temperature and discovered that when the bell rings signalling that the oven is heated at, say, 375 it actually has only reached 225 at best.  So, we learned to wait.  It takes over half an hour to heat the oven up to 375. Then it takes 50% longer -- at least -- to cook an item through, but the top or exterior remains pale and pasty: roast chickens look boiled, top pie crusts melt rather than brown, last weekend the rhubarb crisp I made melted into a sticky mass b/c I had to cook it so long.  Calls to Amana have told us that's how this oven is supposed to work -- the top burner is only for broiling and the oven should brown by \"convection\".  However this isn't a convection oven and it doesn't work like one.\n\nI am known for being a great baker and our guests expect to have wonderful desserts fresh from the oven.  Well, that's over now. The only thing I can produce out of the oven is a great flan because I can steam it at low temps -- no browning.  Someday we'll get a new stove, but it won't be an Amana!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2634, "id": 386788, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 404, "len_tokens": 476, "text": "If you have a whirlpool French door refrigerator that's leaking water onto the floor every couple weeks you will want to install this kit.  The problem is that the factory drain kit gets gunked up and cannot drain the water created when the unit automatically goes through its defrost cycle.  This kit eliminates the self closing valve and replaces it with an open \"P-trap\" style drain (the kind used in every sink and toilet drain in your house).\n\nIt's simple to install and doesn't require any specialized tools, just a flat screwdriver and a 1/4\" socket or nut driver.  You do have to keep in mind that if you're installing this kit because of the ice buildup issue you will have to clear out all the existing ice in order for the freezer to begin draining properly. Follow the included instructions or watch a YouTube how-to video to replace the drain kit before moving on to the next step.\n\nAfter the drain is replaced you need to remove all the existing ice buildup, this is a simple process but you will have to disassemble the freezer to accomplish it.  Don't let that intimidate you, if you're not the most mechanically savvy person there are plenty of how-to videos on YouTube that can walk you through step by step. The disassembly involves removing the freezer door, drawer and rack system, followed by the rear cover panel so you can access the drain hole.  USE CAUTION WHEN WORKING AROUND THE FREEZER TUBE (Be aware that all the metal parts are razor sharp as well) if you puncture/damage the tubes you're looking at either a very expensive repair or a new unit all together. Simply take your time and employ a hair drier on the hottest setting to melt the ice build up.  You can speed the process up by carefully chipping out the big stuff with the flat screwdriver (only under the metal tray where the main drain hole is located). Otherwise just plan on getting comfortable while you melt the ice.  After all the ice is melted, use a turkey baster with hot water to ensure the drain is completely clear of ice and that the water flows through freely. This will also fill the P-trap with water so warm air can't flow back into the freezer.\n\nAfter all the ice is melted you can reassemble the freezer and load it back up!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2635, "id": 379615, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 331, "len_tokens": 414, "text": "Ok, so I have a tiny 1950's kitchen and have had to use these portable type dishwashers for years.  They are great little units--but need a little reasonable care to work at their best--here's what I've learned to make them last a good long time:\n\nWhen you load the dishes, reach under and spin the aerator arm to make sure it rotates freely and nothing hangs down to block it.\n\nRapid Eco setting is the shortest and does a fine job.\n\nOnly needs about 1 Tablespoon of detergent, gel works best.\n\nDoes a good job, but doesn't handle too much loose or caked on food on dishes. I trap the previous load's water in one side of the sink and use it to presoak anything that is extra tough--lazy but effective.\n\nSweep food off trap screen after every load.\n\nAfter about 3 or 4 years, if your unit (& this can happen to ANY dishwasher!) suddenly pours water out the door when filling, don't despair! Don't throw it in the landfill, don't waste time replacing the door gasket.  Just shut it off, shut off the water, turn on the unit so it will pump out the water and UNPLUG it so you can't shock yourself working on it. Then look up online how to clean out the FLOAT MECHANISM. It gets gunked up after awhile and just a little vinegar and a toothbrush and you're good to go for another 3 or 4 years.\n\nTake off the front lower panel and lift the side panel closest to the hoses.  Look for a little box with a removable lid and a lever coming out of it (this shuts off the water when it reaches the correct level). CAREFULLY open it and gently clean out the gunk so the float can freely move up and down.  Fill it halfway with vinegar once clean and replace the lid. Tightly close the box with a ziptie so it is airtight. Done!\n\nHope this helps!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2636, "id": 53919, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 359, "len_tokens": 429, "text": "I've been wanting one of these for some time, and it was well worth the wait.  This machine is perfect for me since I have limited space for it, and no outside vent for a conventional dryer.  It is relatively straightforward to operate, turn it on, set the appropriate settings, and let it go.  As the owner's manual suggests, I ran an empty load first to be sure all the operations worked as they should, and wash out the inside. (I suggest doing so, I could smell lubricants and such inside from the manufacturing process)  Because the machine uses a direct drive system to turn the drum, it is surprisingly quiet.  As most reviews state, the machine is not designed for a large family or extra heavy use.  The first real load I ran consisted of a few towels.  The second of a larger load of regular clothes.  The towels took a total of about 3 hours from start to finish, which isn't that much longer than it would take with a conventional setup.\n\nIn all, I love this machine so far, it suits my space constraints well.  The low noise means I can run it at night and it shouldn't wake me up in the middle of the night.  The drum does spin very fast when it is washing and in the spin cycle, so there is a little vibration noise you can hear, but this shouldn't be a problem if it is on a level and sturdy surface.  I will say that the vibration is less noticable than with my old regular washer.  When drying, the top sides of the machine become hot, but not enough to burn, but be careful what you might put near it.  Also because of the high spin speeds, I wouldn't recommend leaving anything on top of the unit.  In all, I think it is a great value for the money.  The higher price is justified by the convenience.  I can't seem to find a matching pedistal which would raise it up a bit.  Being a taller guy it is a bit of a stretch to get the clothing in and out.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2637, "id": 44873, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 357, "len_tokens": 421, "text": "Great product.\n\nI got this thing as an x-mas gift in 2012 and it's still alive and kicking.\n\nI worked in a movie theater and gained a taste for having lots of ice in my drinks as a result. Having only a minifridge required me to drastic measures -- I decided to enslave a robot to make me three different sizes of ice cubes.\n\nIC-D2 makes three different ice cube sizes that are shaped like really thick thimbles due to the way it creates the cubes. Nine ice cubes are made at a time and the only drawback is that the timing is really unfortunate. Usually what happens for me is, IC will start up and make a quick, flimsy batch of see-through cubes and then sit there humming for a long while...as if it is angry at me for enslaving it, or, as I look at it: giving it a home to safely solidify water all day if I accidentally leave it on.\n\nThat's another thing, IC-D2 is pretty durable and I have left it on all day without it malfunctioning, though I felt pretty dumb for doing so and ended up with a pissy little red robot on my counter daring me to make eye contact with it. However, I wouldn't be surprised if this is what caused a slight squeak when one of the mechanisms moves water up from its tummy to its brain cavity to create more ice cubes.\n\nI think another thing leading to it's almost continuous use (without malfunctioning) for over a year is the cleaning job I do about once a month. You're supposed to do more though, but cleaning is a bit annoying and I haven't found the Asimov book out there that deals with crossing small robot personal boundaries just yet.\n\nRight now IC is asleep but when he wakes up it will probably think it is still dreaming after seeing that I have given it a 5-star rating on Amazon (which if you read the instructions you'll see that this doesn't emancipate your robot like with older models...though it might turn it into a real boy).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2638, "id": 61494, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 395, "len_tokens": 493, "text": "The Graco Humidifier filters as advertised by the Buy-It-Now-Store indicated they were for the Graco 4 gallon Humidifier.  The humidifier filters that I received were packaged as Hamilton Beach for a Hamilton Beach (HB) Humidifier.  As I later learned, the picture that the Seller shows herein is even a picture of a Hamilton Beach Blue Filter which is supposed to be a higher grade filter than the \"Standard\" HB Filter and is a few cents more than the Graco Filter - but this it is not a Graco Filter.  When I contacted the Seller for a Return Authorization, they responded with an authorization for the filters and a \"NON-Pre-Paid\" shipping label with the instructions that I had to pay the postage for the return.  Since when do I have to pay postage for an error on their part??  After some back and forth correspondence, they agreed that they would reimburse me for the postage I would have to pay, but they would only refund me a $12.00 partial refund on my total purchase of $46.38.  After a couple of hours searching around the internet, I learned that the 4 gallon Graco model humidifier that I have is no longer produced and it seems that Graco is also no longer producing the filters either.  In addition, I did also find on the internet that the Graco filter and HB Filters are interchangeable in addition to another brand but I don't know if this Store even knows that.  It would behoove the Seller to advertise the filters he is offering as an HB filter (not a Graco Filter) but also add a note citing that they are physically interchangeable with the Graco filters. Although, the HB filters appears to be of a lesser quality in construction and materials, for now I intend to keep the filters received and use them as I do not want to lose the $34.38 difference between the refund and the initial cost - and they are usable.  However, my lesson learned, dealing with a the \"Real\" Amazon has always worked fine for me with no problems, but this is the last time I will buy from one of the posted \"Buy-It-Now-Stores\" as they don't seem to stand behind their products.  I may come back at a later date to review this Hamilton Beach Filter with use in the Graco 4 Gallon Humidifier.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2639, "id": 456312, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 366, "len_tokens": 449, "text": "GE Profile Spacemaker Series JVM1790SK INTERIOR LIGHT\n\nPurchased in 2008, and my family loves it.  Because of the many features it has, we use it more than any other microwave we've owned. We've had no problems with it - except the light bulbs.  Both are easily replaced without removing the unit from the wall - if so mounted.  UNPLUG THE POWER CORD before proceeding with installing either bulb.\n\nThe INTERIOR LIGHT is accessed by removing the top vent cover - the one above the door.  Remove the 3-screws - 2-on the top, and one on the left side, and located about  in from the front edge of the metal housing surrounding the microwave.  NOTE: If the microwave is in a cabinet which covers the top and side screws, you can CHOSE to 'break' the plastic tabs which secure the top vent cover at those points - it will allow you access to the interior bulb without removing the unit.  The bottom of the vent cover has three offset plastic spring tabs that allow you to pull the vent cover off - toward you as you face the microwave.  My top and side tabs were previously broken by someone trying to get the cover off without removing the screws...\n\nOnce you have removed the top vent cover, look for a phillip-head screw just above the center of the doorframe - at the entrance of the duct going to the exhaust fan.  This screw secures the interior light bulb bracket. Remove the screw, and lift the bracket out - the light bulb and wires will be attached.  Pull the little bulb straight out of the socket  it has two round pins that make the electrical connection in the bulb socket.\n\nMy unit came with a 20-W Halogen bulb - I bought a replacement from Home Depot for about $5.00.  Insert the new bulb, but don't touch bulb with your bare fingers - I used a paper towel to keep the oils on my skin from attaching to the bulb's surface - oils concentrate heat and therefore shorten the life of the bulb.  Reinstall the light bulb bracket, vent cover, plug-in the power cord, and reset the clock, etc...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2640, "id": 69249, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 359, "len_tokens": 430, "text": "Update: The company has just emailed me and advise me that I would have to ship the unit back to them to receive the warranty service, which is easily the cost of the unit. Essentially, there is no real warranty with this item. A terrible investment.\n\nI bought this freezer last December.  I had no complaints with it until it stopped working, defrosting all of the food inside.  After rescuing as much as I could I set out trying to get someone to repair the unit, as it comes with a one year warranty.  The first thing I discovered was the warranty information here on Amazon is not correct.  This item is not warrantied by GE, but rather by a third party corporation known as Curtis International which warranties all of Igloo's products.\n\nCurtis International's website:[...] States that they have 24/7 product support.  This isn't true because the first six times I called the phone tree dumped me into a queue and then I was disconnected with a message to call later at a time convenient to me. Um, I'm calling now because THIS is a time convenient to me. When I finally got through the person on the other end was difficult to understand, and after much repeating he asked me questions like \"Is the lid closed securely\" and then told me to reset the system \"By turning it to lo and then high 6-7 seven times\" I followed all of his supposed reset instructions (which, by the way, aren't in my user manual and felt like a delaying tactic) and surprise! I still have a puddle of water in the bottom of my freezer that doesn't work.\n\nSo now I have to try to figure out the sweet spot in Curtis' supposed 24/7 support time when they really do answer the phone to see if they'll actually fix my freezer. All in all, I've spent nearly a week trying to even get a response and my frustration level is pretty high.  $260 for a freezer that only works for nine months is a terrible investment, if you ask me.  Save your money and buy a different model.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2641, "id": 13963, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 325, "len_tokens": 433, "text": "Danby Portable 1805W\nPros:  Sturdy/well-built, roomy interior, excellent cleaning, well-priced.\nCons:  Very long \"normal\" wash cycle; no end-of-cycle signal.\nRecommend:  Definitely!!\n\nMy kitchen floor space, cabinet and storage space are extremely limited and a portable dishwasher my only option.  I tried the Haier 18\" portable but this dishwasher is riddled with problems and within two weeks I returned it.  I considered the Sears Kenmore 18\" portable but it is over priced. I read the positiwe online reviews for this Danby but couldn't find it locally. A few weeks later, I found this Danby online at what I consider a bargain price and free ship-to-store for pick-up. Once I got it home and unpacked, my goodness, it is almost identical to the pricey Kenmore (or is the Kenmore almost identical to the Danby?).\n\nAfter my experience with the Haier, I was skeptical, but the Danby 1805W is more than I expected. It is attractive, sturdy, and easily moves about on the large casters. Unpack it and the dishwasher is ready to be attached to the faucet (with the provided adaptor), plugged in, loaded, and started. The stainless steel interior is also attractive and well put together. It is roomy, easy to load and unload. No problem with normal-size plates and platters. It holds quite a load of dishes, and there is a nice size flatware tray which holds plenty. I found the \"normal\" cycle to be quite long (90 minutes) but the dishes were spotlessly clean and dry when removed. It operates fairly quietly. There is storage for the cord and hoses. The manual could be better written and the control dial and buttons labeled better but after a couple of reads and use, it's easy to get the hang of it. Did I mention that the cleaning was thorough, spotless, and the dishes dry when finished? All-in-all, it's not perfect but it is a remarkably good machine and I am thrilled to have it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2642, "id": 125143, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 352, "len_tokens": 419, "text": "I purchased the Infiniti Pro because the Art Naturals I owned and used for no more than a few weeks stopped blowing hot air and I didn't see the point of buying it twice.  My review is for the Infiniti Pro but also I put in some comparisons to the Art Naturals brush.  If you are looking at both this might be helpful.  My opinion is that you should not waste your money on the Art Naturals spin brush, buy the Infiniti Pro instead.  The quality is better in every way.  Infiniti Pro is performing really well and it's working reliably.  I really like the two wide brushes and find them to be gentler on my hair than the Art Naturals spin brush.  Both do a good job, the difference is in the quality.  We love our hair tools, there is nothing worse than liking a specific tool, getting used to it then having it die while your hair is still wet.  My hair is long, down to the middle of my back and both brushes were effective at drying my hair from the crown all the way to the ends.\n\nInfiniti Pro - It is lighter weight than the Art Natural and the brushes are softer so they are easier on my hair.  Because it is a lighter weight I find it is much easier to use and maneuver.  I also notice that the softer spin brush isn't pulling out so much of my hair.  The heat settings are good, without getting too hot plus there is a cool setting if you prefer cooler air.  The only complaint I have about this one is the cord could be longer, another 12\" would have made this perfect in every way.\n\nArt Naturals - The heat settings are good, and they get nice and hot, plus there is a cool setting. The brushes are stiff, they do a good job they are just noticeably stiffer bristles. I can now say after using both that the Art Naturals was pulling out more of my hair (more left in the brush than the Infiniti).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2643, "id": 47356, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 386, "len_tokens": 447, "text": "This washer was highly rated before we went out and bought it and unfortunately it did not measure up to it's rating. It does not clean the clothes as well as the previously owned top loader.\n\nWe suspect that this washer does not use enough water to do the job properly. So, we tried to use the setting with extra water without success. We now pre-wash everything which requires two kinds of detergent, a HE dry powder and HE liquid with semi-success. We now add bleach to all of our white's which does work somewhat. We've tried to reduce the amount of detergent and increase the amount of detergent. Heavily soiled, clothes just do not get clean.\n\nAnother problem with this washer is the length of time it takes to complete a wash. It can take 4 times longer than the top loader we used to have. The problems do not end here. This washer was sold to us promising that it would be able to wash a queen size comforter. It does, but it often does not go into the spin cycle, especially if you add a few extra pieces of laundry to it.\n\nThis machine is way too sensitive to unbalanced loads. It simply refuses to go into the spin cycle. It takes removing any additional clothes added and sometimes repeated unloading and re-arranging of the comforter to get it going.\n\nThink about this; you've got to take out and re-arrange a sloppy wet comforter just to get it to start the spin cycle. You might think this would be the end of the problem. NO!!!! To get it back into the spin cycle you have to reset the washing machine to a rinse cycle. Therefore it is wasting water just to get it back to spin dry the comforter. -----\n\nWe wish we had never bought this machine and kept the old \"water wasting\" top loader. We have not had any of the smelling problems though because we keep the door always wide open to air dry the washer after it has been used.\n\nDon't buy this washer and don't let anyone tell you it's your water. Our water is extremely soft and should work with any washer. I hope I was able to warn some people with this true and unbiased assessment.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2644, "id": 48566, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 338, "len_tokens": 409, "text": "I purchased our Emerson MoistAIR humidifier from our local Home Depot store in 2009.  I was extremely pleased with my purchase and pretty impressed with the quality of the product for the money.  I have to admit however, I was very displeased with the availability of the replacement filters.  After about a year of owning the humidifier I thought I'd browse the humidifier/filter aisle at Home Depot to quickly find a replacement filter, but sadly they don't carry them or at ANY Home Depot.  I guess you could say this was a tad frustrating when time is money!!  After also searching a few local hardware stores, who also did not carry the humidifier or filter, I started my search online.  I am willing to admit I'm not an avid online shopper, mainly because I'm skeptical of the seller or the poorly designed/secure site, so hopefully this review builds your confidence in purchasing the filter through Amazon.  Amazon has been one of my top web sites I to turn to when comparison shopping because of all of the great reviews and reliable customer base.\nSince replacing the filter in my Emerson humidifier, I have had zero problems.  The filter was very easy to install and wasn't damaged or used.  After growing up in the midwest for most of my life I've learned cold, dry winters wreck havoc on the air quality in your home.  I am very happy with my purchase of this filter on Amazon.  I also read the few customer reviews that recommended the water treatment product you add to the humidifiers water before running the humidifier.  The air quality of our home is important to me so I also added the Bacteriostatic Treatment product on to my order at the very last minute.  Overall I'm pleased with the filter and treatment additive.  I'm not 100% confident the treatment is doing anything, but I notice the air is less dry in our home!  I'll be replacing the filter once every year and most likely return to Amazon!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2645, "id": 483618, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 440, "len_tokens": 496, "text": "I've had this appliance for several years now, and it turned out to be a great little freezer - perfect dimensions for a bachelor in a small apartment. It really helped take the pressure off of my storage requirements. This thing fit perfectly between my refrigerator and my kitchen table and left room to spare! I was a little hesitant to buy any appliance like this that did not have automatic defrost, but surprisingly excessive frosting has not been a problem. I've only defrosted once in four years, and I only did that because I was doing major inventory of my stocks and had them all out to begin with.\n\nThe unit came with a handy dandy insert cage, so you can pile stuff in the cage while rearranging your stores in the compartment. This unit did not even make a blip on my over all electric bill, so no matter what the energy star rating is on this unit it still saves a lot on power. I hardly ever hear it kick on, and it is so quiet, I probably don't notice most of the time!\n\nIt has a spring loaded lid that helps hold it up once you go over top dead center, so that can make it easy to open up while digging around in your food storage. I just couldn't believe they made such a good unit that is exactly the right size for my needs. I sure hope they never discontinue such a design, but mine will probably never wear out.\n\nAs you can see in the present photo of the appliance - the vents are on the right, so that is where I keep the most distance from adjacent objects/furniture, although I have the left side almost 1\" from the refrigerator. I made sure and didn't put the back side totally up against the wall so there would be enough air movement to keep the cooling system going without a hitch. The manual is clear on how much standoff is needed, but in my crowded little corner it didn't need much room, believe me. It also has adjustable legs to level the box, but I had such a huge difference between the height of my kitchen rug and the linoleum of the cook area, that I ended up using an old telephone book to level the box properly. Your mileage may vary. This was more a negative for the construction of my apartment than a ding on the Avanti design. The unit keeps on ticking without a hiccup - a very reliable appliance! I can't say enough good things about this badly needed device!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2646, "id": 394429, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 349, "len_tokens": 443, "text": "I purchased this unit ~2 months ago. Overall, I am very pleased. I previously had the Danby Kegerator and the quality of this machine from Edgestart is far superior. I especially like the heavy duty casters, overall fit/finish, and 'good' quality gauges, hoses and faucets. The gauge could be better but is very serviceable as is for a 'no name' pressure gauge. Assembly was cave-man easy, and you should be ashamed if you find it difficult.\n\nI did make a few modifications to enhance this unit to my preferences at a very low cost. The unit comes with a 'T' splitter for the air hoses to split the gas to two lines from one. I didn't like this, as it sends CO2 to both units all the time, so I added a manifold for ~$25, much better as you can throw a lever to cut gas for each keg separately. I also added a $5 CO2 pressure gauge to monitor tank pressure for a warning when it needs changing. The gauge the unit comes with fortunately is threaded for this reason, A digital external thermometer ($~10) easily allows you to monitor the fridge temp without having to open the door, preserving the cold interior. The final item was a blower fan far to cool the tower. You can buy these for $50, but I was able to whip one up from an old computer fan, a 2\" tube from an old vacuum cleaner and some old power cords. My 'macguyver' version cost me nothing and keeps the tower so cold it 'sweats'! There is minimal insulation included in the tower, which likely is a step in the right direction. Conviently, the cap on the tower is removable, so you can confirm your new airflow if you choose to cool the tower.\n\nAltogether, I am thrilled with this kegerator, and would not hesitate to buy again. I was on the fence about buying a 'higher end' model for double the price, but I'm glad I bought this unit. After a few 'cheap tweaks' I have the perfect (for me) kegerator!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2647, "id": 180687, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 345, "len_tokens": 404, "text": "My previous dryer vent became useless after many years of use and the springs just gave up.  So I ordered this with the hope that a simpler design would mean a better implementation.\n\nPROS\n- Simple design\n- Easy to clean\n\nCONS\n- Could be hard to install\n- No mounting hardware included (!)\n\nThe biggest issue with this product is that it can be hard to install especially if you're replacing another vent.  In my case, I was concerned that the screw holes from the previous vent could interfere and prevent this vent from being secure on the house.  I got lucky but if things were shifted just 1/2 inch, I would have been in trouble.\n\nOn the installation, I'd recommend having some Good Stuff spray insulation and outdoor silicone caulk on hand.  When you take off the old dryer vent you will inevitable find that the original person who installed that vent did a poor job and there are large openings between the pipe and the house.  Make sure you fill in those voids since that can cause air leakage or allow insects to enter the house.\n\nWhen you line up the product to install it, use a generous amount of caulk the surfaces mating with the house.  That will help make sure no water migrates into the house or the dryer pipe.  Also, make sure you have some mounting screws because inexplicably there are none included with the product (!).\n\nThe vent operates when air is being pushed out by the dryer.  When that happens, the plastic cover floats up and air is pushed out of the bottom of the vent.  Although I haven't used this long enough to clean it, it's pretty clear that this will be a cinch to clean.  There is a latch on the top that you have to unsnap and then the whole this is open to inspect and clean.\n\nThis one is a clear winner even if the installation is a little challenging.  But I'm sure other dryer vents would be a challenge to install as well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2648, "id": 2459, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 475, "text": "You need the optional extension piece. (See HEARTLAND's website (heartlandnatural.com)). This piece is for outside your house only and will not adapt to a 4\" PVC pipe w/out the (optional) extension that is listed as an accessory (it's a necessity).\nThat said, I don't know why they call it an optional accessory or an extension, you need it, or you can't connect to this vent and pipe it through your wall. They should just charge more and sell you everything that is needed. I would have given them 5 Starts if I didn't have to order the necessary extension separately.\nI'll list my complete setup and you decide what is right for you... This worked for me, but you have to make sure you have all the info and all the right parts before  you start your project... So here they are...\n\nParts\n1. HEARTLAND 21000 Dryer Vent Closure\n2. HEARTLAND Extension accessory (Can be used as a 'through the wall' extension on the dryer vent.\n7\" in length.)\n3. 4\" Long 4\" dia PVC\n4. Dryer Dock Vent Hose Quick Connect\n5. PVC Pipe Cement\n\nInstall\n1. Pipe Cement the Dryer Vent to the Extension and allow the appropriate time to dry (do this in a well vented place)\n2. Have someone hold the vent in place through the wall.\n3. Slide the Quick connect into the PVC and slide the PVC over the 7\" extension. You will have to cut down the 7\" Extension so it will slide into the 4\" PVC Pipe (coupler) without hitting the quick connect. you can decide these exact measurements during this retro fit. For me it was cut 2 \" off of the 7\" extension and cut \" off of the 4\" PVC\n4. Screw in the Dryer vent\n5. Slide on the 4\"PVC with the quick connect\n6. Screw in the quick connect\n\nDone.\n\nLuckily I had everything on hand because I bought the 4\" PVC thinking it would connect to the vent and I figured I would need the PVC pipe cement (and I did). I had to cement the vent to the extension other than that everything else slid together tightly and screwed in nicely.\nHope this helps!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2649, "id": 38253, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 365, "len_tokens": 450, "text": "I bought this at Fry's Electronics. It was on sale at the end of the summer, and was an impulse buy... A complete piece of garbage, this company should be embarassed! The regulator is cheap, and does not work at all. There is no way to control the flow with it.\n\nThe C02 tank is held in with a big rubber band (Actually, an O-ring) that broke the first time I took the tank out. I took it out because 1/3 of the way thru the first keg, the tank was empty... That's how bad it leaked... It came with a whole bag of \"extra\" seals and gaskets, and half of them do not exist in this product... I have no idea what they are for...\n\nA real kegerator will have a C02 shutoff... This one does not. A real regulator will have two gauges, one for tank pressure and the other for line pressure... This \"Toy\" has only one, and it's the cheapest gauge I think I have ever seen...\n\nThe first beer out of the keg was fun... Until we realized that even turned to max cold, the beer was way too warm... There are some discussions of this thing on the internet where people have modified it so that it will get colder... I had not gotten around to trying it yet, since the summer was over and it wasn't a real priority any more...\n\nThen the thing quit working entirely. Completely dead. I have it installed in our guest/pool house, and I had been out there a few times but never realized it wasn't running any more. (It's pretty cold out there in the fall and winter, so the thing wasn't working real hard)\n\nTake my advice... Spend $50 more than this and buy at least a Haier... I have a friend with one of those and it's been working great for 6 or seven years... He keeps it outside in his barbecue island, (In the 110 degree heat) and it keeps his beer frosty cold!\n\nThis is the worst waste of time and money I have ever experienced... It lasted 2/3 of the way thru 1 pony keg! Absolute garbage.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2650, "id": 482737, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 341, "len_tokens": 429, "text": "Have owned this stove 2.4 years. Paid almost $3000 for it. Used the bottom oven only 8-10 times and as noted with other consumers the Igniter switch design is way  too close to the heat pan on the bottom oven,causing it to spark/smoke and burn a hole it the metal pan. I was making cookies and I heard loud \"popping and saw sparks\" the smoke-(scared the heck outta me!) flying out of my bottom (convection) oven, this happened of course 2 weeks before Christmas. I contacted the place I purchased the unit, of course the warranty is void after 1 year ONLY, on such an expensive oven. They advised I contact G.E.  - who told me to wait until  first or second week of January 2018 ( 1 MONTH without a stove) and they would send a repair person out from 1 1/2 hrs away from me. Meanwhile I have no way to cook anything, as they told me NOT to use the oven or stove top, as it could be a FIRE HAZARD.I went ahead and contacted a local repair person, who has 40+ years experience with all types of ovens and he took apart the igniter and heat pan ( 12/19/17) told me that this design was \"goofey\" and even if he replaced the igniter this would surely happen again as this is a DESIGN flaw. He went ahead and ordered the part and of course G.E. has since replaced the design flaw with another part as they KNOW this is a major problem, but somehow did NOT inform me of that., and my repair ordered  the wrong part because of this. Now I have been without a stove for 6 weeks!. My repair guy says this is going to cost me around $700 to repair THEIR FLAW. I would NEVER purchase a G.E. again of you paid me! This is unacceptable and G.E. needs to address this major problem and make it right for their customers. This is not only bad customer relations but dangerous as well.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2651, "id": 100654, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 449, "text": "I love this little washer. It does the job, saves me over $300.00 a year in quarters, is less stressful and safer.  I no longer use the laundry room in my apartment building. I no longer have to drag laundry outside and go down dangerous brick steps. Nor do I have to get up super early to beat the other tenants to the laundry room. I still work full time as a florist and my clothes do get dirty. But now I love being able to wash a few pieces at a time, so it doesn't \"pile up\".\nGranted, it does take a little longer, but I still feel it is worth every penny.\nI set it up on my kitchen counter, next to the sink. The suction cups hold perfectly well, and the drain works like a charm. The lid did take a few tries, to get used to, but now I have the hang of it. I use very little detergent,  a little washing soda, and during the rinse a little fabric softener. Sometimes I do rinse twice, always using cold water (never use hot water to rinse with, the cold water disperses the oxygen in the soap bubbles, eliminating  soap more quickly). My only problem is my arthritis. So I take it easy on turning the handle...I turn for about a minute, stop for a few minutes, letting things soak, then go back and turn for another minute. I did buy the spin dryer by Laundry Alternatives, to eliminate the water in my clothes, because I do not have the strength in my hands anymore to \"wring\"..it works perfectly in conjunction with the Wonder Washer. I hang the damp clothes up on racks and they are dry within a few hours. I do not find any fault with the washer, you simply have to devote a little more time to get your end results. For me, it is totally worth the extra time....I no longer have to use the apartment laundry room ( 3 washers and 3 dryers for over 25 apartments in each building) no more using disgusting, dirty,  expensive, ill-kept, machines. If it were to break, I would immediately buy another one. It is perfect for me.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2652, "id": 88347, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2653, "id": 88499, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2654, "id": 242257, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 351, "len_tokens": 433, "text": "After doing some research online as to why our oven wasn't working, we determined that it was the ignitor.  We were shocked to see that this part cost about $100-120 to order from parts stores.  We were just as surprised to find this generic one here on Amazon for about $20.  We have a Kenmore 790-78782406 Range, and I wondered if this ignitor would work on it.  I posted the question and got a very quick response from the seller.  We ordered this ignitor on a Wednesday and it was delivered on Saturday, which was a pleasant surprise since I thought it would take about a week to get (we live in California).  My husband installed it and it works great!  Some things to keep in mind are:  The ignitor itself is inside the metal holder.  That was something that confused me because this ignitor looks different than the one that we took out of my oven.  But actually, the ignitor that is inside the metal holder is exactly the same as the one we took out of our oven. It's just the metal holder that's different.  We took the ignitor out of this metal holder and put it in the metal holder that came out of our oven, then we installed it back into our oven.  Another thing is, our original ignitor had a clip plug on the end that plugged into a socket in our oven.  This new ignitor just has open wires.  So we had to cut off the clip plug from our original ignitor and splice it to the wires on this new ignitor using the wire nuts that were included.  The only other concern that I had was about the quality of this ignitor.  My oven is 12 years old, so the original ignitor has lasted for 12 years.  I wondered if this new generic ignitor would last just as long.  I saw on another post that said that this generic ignitor lasted about 5 years.  Time will tell how long it lasts and how well it performs.  But as for now, it's working great!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2655, "id": 322410, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 332, "len_tokens": 411, "text": "This is an update of my previous review of the Ambient WM-3.\n\nThe Ambient WM-3 is an excellent handheld portable metering device that not only provides temperature readings, but also provides wind speed, and relative humidity, all at an attractive price point that fits the average persons pocketbook, but it doesn't end there, let me explain:\n\nI would especially recommend the WM-3 for for those involved with the NWS (National Weather Service) Skywarn program, this handy handheld weather device allows one to observe and record any sudden changes in temperature, velocity, and humidity and to report these changes back to a weather spotter  emergency weather control station. Amateur radio operators across the United States are involved with the National Weather Service Skywarn program as I was, and the WM-3 would certainly be an asset if involved in this type of activity. Sudden changes in atmospheric conditions can be an indicator of severe weather approaching.\n\nThe Ambient WM-3 is simple to use, fits in the palm of your hand, has a display that's more than adequate for viewing with LCD backlight, auto powers off, provides temperature readings in both Fahrenheit and Celsius, air velocity in m/s, ft/min, knots, km/h, & mph. The Wm-3 also allows one to calibrate the device to a known standard, provides maximum, minimum, and average readings, and it's CE Certified & RoHS Compliant.\n\nAccuracy, given the price point for this weather meter, it performs within reasonable tolerances for the average user, for those that require highly critical measurements in a scientific lab setting, or a more critical setting, then you might consider one of the other Ambient weather instruments like the Ambient WM-5 for more precise measurements, but for the average earth bound user this is a great little weather meter.\n\nAnyway, it's a whole lot of bang for the buck.\n\nLastly, I own numerous Ambient Weather devices and I have been well please with all of them, my experience is that are real performers and affordably priced.\n\nRWK", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2656, "id": 88946, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 366, "len_tokens": 470, "text": "To future buyers, this post details my experience as well as a legitimate manufacturing issue with this Whirlpool product:\n\nI purchased a Whirlpool Cabrio Washing Machine in June 2011. In November 2011, I had to have it serviced. Fortunately, Whirlpool covered the repair because it was under warranty. In, February 2013, the exact same problem broke our washer yet again and I paid $138 to have it serviced yet again. This was only 6 months after our 1-yr warranty expired. Same problem, same repair, 2 times in 20 months.\n\nTwo different Whirlpool certified repairmen looked at our washer. Both concluded a \"pulley nut\" becomes loose with the vibration of the washer. When this nut becomes loose, the \"gear case\" can break (very expensive replacement part).\nWhy is this a manufacturing issue? The gear case and associated parts (belts, etc) are usually placed together downward (using gravity+nut to hold them together). The Cabrio places these parts together upward, so when the natural vibration of the washer works the nut at the bottom loose, the parts are no longer connecting. This first causes a slight grinding noise, but can eventually damage the gear case entirely.\n\nThe repairman showed me his diagrams, and I've found a similar manufacturer's diagram to illustrate my point with a simple Google search: \"Whirlpool Cabrio gear case diagram\". Notice the single nut (item 19) holding parts 8-15 and 20 together. That is the single issue that causes this major flaw in design. The nut is BELOW all components and simply gets loose and falls off, causing the components to be misplaced. The repairman said often when the washer is lifted up, the nut is just sitting there on the floor beneath it.\n\nI contacted Whirlpool customer service both live chat online and on the phone. They essentially said \"Please accept our apologies and I have recorded your complaint.\"\n\nI urge you to consider other washing machines because of this design flaw. My repairman mentioned LG and Samsung washers are far superior in design quality now. He said their customer service may be lacking, but said, \"...if the washer works correctly, you won't have to call customer service.\"\n\nDuly noted repairman, duly noted.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2657, "id": 531031, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 342, "len_tokens": 418, "text": "Good product, but be VERY careful about how you want to handle issues. While LG supposed makes better quality products from their competitors however I've been warned by many about their terrible services. I figured that if I had a the best product I wouldn't need service and worst case likely it'll happen during warranty.\n\nThe product works great, we're very happy with it. The dryer however had a busted bulb since the day we bought it. I called LG service and gave them the details, serial number, date of purchase (it was less than 75 days old). I was categorically told that the bulb was a \"consumable\" item and not covered by warranty. I called back and chatted about 6 times after being hung up on 3 times, denied warranty coverage 3 times and finally had to give up. I'll be filing a complaint with the BBB.\nHow can a defective bulb be a \"consumable\"? The get to the bulb I need to remove the door and unscrew some parts. Really a consumable?\n\nThat $1700 I'll never spend with LG again for a 50c bulb.\n\nSummarze:\nProduct works great - no complaints\nAssume the warranty doesn't exist (either buy extended or buy some other product).\n\nWhich now makes me think, after doing a month of research, Samsung, Whirlpool, LG, Kenmore etc etc, going through consumer reports, websites, amazon reviews, home depot reviews and scouring the web, everyone said LG quality was the best (barring those few who had bad pieces) but unanimously LG service was the worst. I just it's just my luck to have to call in LG service and hit the infamous \"service\". But really I was trying to get the best product and longer product life so I don't have to buy another one soon. Was it worth it? Now I think I should have gone with Samsung, pretty sure the product would work just as well, maybe it has as shorter life but alteast if something goes wrong I know Samsung will stand by it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2658, "id": 88163, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2659, "id": 53854, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 356, "len_tokens": 487, "text": "First of all, it is extremely stupid to have a convection oven that you cannot set to a temperature and expect it to stay at that temperature, right?  That's just intuitive.  Well, the idiots at Kitchenaid must think we're all idiots since you have to set the \"original recipe\" temperature and the recipe time in order for the convection oven to work at all--then if you find you need more time, guess what, you have to do it all again!!\n\nSecond, the convection microwave oven is impossible to clean.  Any baked on grease must be SCRUBBED off because the convection microwave cannot be used with a lot of heat (burns out the electronics (I guess Kichenaid hasn't heard of insulation)), so it is not SELF CLEANING.\n\nThird, the heating element that comes on with the \"crisp\" feature cannot be turned on except when using the \"crisp\" feature.  The crisp feature is the only way you can use both microwave and convection together--so you have ZERO control over both the heating element and microwave power...Again, VERY POOR design especially if you WANT TO COOK.\n\nFourth, none of the \"programmed\" features work very well with the microwave.  Potatoes are undercooked, reheated plates of food are BLASTED into mush, Popcorn is underpopped with a lot of partially popped or non popped kernels.\n\nFifth, in this century, can you imaging a microwave power of only 900 watts?\n\nWhat is nice about it?  Well, the combination did save us space in the kitchen and we could choose other appliances that \"went with it\" when we remodeled (that is, the handles all look alike).  IMO, that's not enough reason to get this poorly designed and horribly engineered cooking appliance that is nothing more than a larger \"easy bake oven\".  SHAME ON YOU KITCHENAID.  NO WONDER AMERICAN APPLIANCE COMPANIES ARE GOING BANKRUPT--YOU ARE THE REASON PEOPLE DON'T BUY AMERICAN MADE PRODUCTS.\n\nJust to be clear, we had kitchenaid products for 19 years prior to the remodel.  THOSE products actually worked well.  This new \"Kitchenaid\" generation, however, is NOT WELL DESIGNED NOR WELL BUILT.  Highly recommend that you \"Stay Away\" from this product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2660, "id": 374762, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 405, "len_tokens": 490, "text": "These Gap Covers definitely keep crumbs or spills or anything else from falling and getting into the cracks between the counter and stove...food, pot holders, towels, utensils....I love this aspect and am very happy about that! My only issue with them is, they are always spotted or smeared unless I clean them carefully by hand and hand dry them thoroughly.  If I toss them into the dishwasher, they come out spotted all over...and the spots don't want to wipe off and I must hand wash them anyway. If I wipe them off while wiping the counter...spots.  I can wash them by hand and dry them with a very good lint free kitchen towel and I must take great pains to dry without leaving spots. Quite a bit of time spent on keeping them looking nice. I have a beautiful new kitchen with shiny new black appliances including a glass top stove...which I keep spotless and sanitized when I'm not cooking/baking....the entire kitchen come clean with ease except for these covers...I have to work with them a lot to keep their spots and streaks from taking away from the neat clean look of the kitchen when it's not in use.  I don't mind the covers getting dirty...I bought 2 sets to compensate with their getting dirty often. But they get dirty so easily, and then don't clean up so well. I love to cook & bake for  family/friends.  I have plenty of items to clean, which is fine...they can all go in the dishwasher  and come out 1 hour later looking great...except for these little covers. I love the purpose they serve very much, however, I would really love it if they cleaned up as well and easily as the rest of the kitchen. Once I am ready to clean up...I want it to be a smooth job....there is more to life. I run the dishwasher twice a day at least due to all the cooking/baking I do...Like I said, I bought two sets of these gap covers for quick changing so I could toss dirty ones in the dishwasher  and sure do love having them. I'm just disappointed that a quick clean up of the kitchen is snagged by these little covers that demand \"hands on\" care.  I would not give them up....but would love to see improvements. Would be 5 star if they cleaned up as well as the rest of the kitchen.\n .", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2661, "id": 52503, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 356, "len_tokens": 435, "text": "The only thing I love about this range is its appearance.  I purchased it back in 2008 and have been putting up with, and cooking around many, many issues.  Within the first six months I began the service calls, but our service technician was unable to repair our beginning issue with the stove and after spending several hundred dollars for a 'no fix' situation, I had to live with the problem.  (That has pretty much been my stance since then as I did not want to be nickeled and dimed on this range.)  The first issue was when the oven fan comes on, it changes the front right burner flame and makes it unusable for stovetop cooking while the oven fan is on.  The knobs also crinkled due to heat (I can't image how this passed GE inspection, and is not worth replacing at over $50 a knob which will then crinkle again due to heat--what a money maker for them!) Another issue was the front left burner flame was too highly set and was eating away the burner disk and all my pots and pans (that was corrected, thank goodness).  The oven temperature was always off by about 25 degrees. My next issue was the center burner will not ignite all the way around.  The next issue is that the convection stopped working.  Then the top broiler stopped working.  Now the oven takes 15 plus minutes to heat up.  The bottom oven cooks great, but the drawer latch never really latched all the way.  Perhaps I have a lemon, but I just can't keep going with this.  Like I said, I really love the way it looks, but I cook every single day for my family and need an working range.  Unfortunately, it's not going to be easy finding a new one as it sounds from many other reviews you either get lucky, or not.  I would even pay for a Viking, Wolff or Verona because I love the professional look so much, but it doesn't sound like you get away from lemons there either, and pay even more for service and parts.  Uh!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2662, "id": 503664, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 319, "len_tokens": 405, "text": "This washer basin is huge - 4.7 holds everything and we have a family of 5.  We almost bought the Kenmore Elite HE5T with steam but found out the regular units are 4.4 but the sale unit only available in \"barolo red\" was only 4.0 - big enough for most but size was our major factor in a new washer.  So we gave up the steam and went with Electrolux.  Electrolux does not make a steam washer, the steam dryer is in the wave touch model ($300 more apiece than the IQ touch).  The main reason to me for steam is stain removal; not so much wrinkle removal, so IQ touch was fine.  Apparently Electrolux and Bosch don't think steam in a washer is necessary; neither offer it.  This washer/dryer is fantastic.  I was concerned about the doors (as many are) but they are incredibly sturdy and you should have no trouble with them, I got used to the 'push' feature immediately.  The tops of the units do scratch - we lined them with the rubber foam liners so we can use the surface area (you can get the wide at Lowe's in the tool section).  Both are very quiet - washer spins so fast you won't believe it.  I was also concerned about the extended wash time with front loaders but with the size of the bin I can almost double my loads.  Also, Electrolux offers an 18 minute fast wash cycle.  Dryer time is incredibly fast because clothes are almost dry when they come out of the washer - 20 minutes for drying in most cases.\n\nUPDATE 6/3/11 - I checked back and saw the comments and Electrolux began offering a steam washer shortly after our purchase.  Our Electrolux IQ Touch Washer and Dryer are still going strong and we love them.  No issues whatsoever, and my teenagers do their own laundry all the time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2663, "id": 9274, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 307, "len_tokens": 408, "text": "From the bottle's label:\n\nHolmes\nHumidifier Water Treatment\nModel S1705\n\n* Prolongs the life of wick filters and warm mist heating systems\n* Helps prevent lime and scale build-up\n* Provides easier cleaning\n\nMy motivation for buying the Treatment was to increase the lifespan of the wick.  I was only getting a few months life from a wick, using about two per winter.  Using the Treatment, one wick is lasting more than one winter.\n\nAnd the bottle lasts more than a winter, so it's worth it.\n\nI hate to recommend W*lmart, but I bought my last bottle there for less than $2.  That was still during the end of the humidifying season.  Guess I should have bought two.  I also bought their last half-dozen HM3600 humidifier wicks for $2 each (in July), when you couldn't find them for less than $12 anywhere on eBay.\n\nI'll need another year to determine just how much longer the wicks are lasting, now that I'm on the Treatment.  I just checked my wick.  I think I used it for almost all last winter.  It's just a little soft all over, but no serious deterioration.  And no smell, just in case you're counting.\n\nThe instructions recommend adding a capful with every 3 gallons of water -- as a start -- and then after a while, you're supposed to determine whether your water needs more or less.  I used a little less, and it still did the trick for my wick, apparently.  My water is very soft.  The instructions say harder water will require more Treatment.  Granted, that's not a lot of guidance.\n\nI didn't know if it's allowed to combine bactericide with the Treatment, so I didn't.  Between the Treatment and being careful not to allow the humidifier to sit with water if it was turned off, the water never got smelly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2664, "id": 182395, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 330, "len_tokens": 401, "text": "This is a great range with all of the features you want including a griddle for the center burner.  I use this a lot.  The burner controls are also precise and I love the right front burner.  The range on it is from power boil to the gentlest simmer.  The two ovens also give you a lot of versatility when preparing a meal.\n\nWhile the range is great, the journey getting it here was quite an ordeal.  The company processed the order and then turned the stove over to the shipper.  Over the course of a month, the stove was shipped, lost, found and continued on its journey, but the delivery time was a full month from the order date.\n\nEdit 7/19/2015\n\nWe are replacing the range, sad to say.  While we like it a lot, we have had to replace the ignitor for the lower oven twice in the last year.  This isn't one of those little cheapies and the tech told me that the ignitor is part of a series so that when it goes out, it's more complicated and expensive.  We paid about $300 for the first replacement and when it came time to do it a second time, I decided to cut my losses.  GE shouldn't put their customers in a position where when a simple part fails, it is so expensive to replace.  Lesson learned.\n\nWe had an issue with the electronics on the range and GE promptly replaced the range.  I can't say enough good things about the GE customer service we received.\n\nUpdate:  We've had this range almost a year now and we are just as happy with it as we were when we bought it.  Great looking appliance and all of the bells and whistles you are looking for.\n\nWe did have an issue with an ignitor going out.  It was originally diagnosed as a failed oven board by an incompetent repairman, but the second repairman got it fixed with no problem.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2665, "id": 457095, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 375, "len_tokens": 482, "text": "Purchased this oven as a $2500 builder option, and part of a GE Profile wall oven tandem.  The oven's microwave/heatlamp with convection cooked food fast, and was especially useful for baked potatoes or small dishes such as appetizers that one would normally only use a regular oven for.  The cooking sensor also worked well, cooking vegetables perfectly.\n\nThe honeymoon lasted for 6 months.\n\nThe oven displayed an \"F3\" light accompanied by a constant beeping.  This is apparently a control panel fault, common to recent GE microwaves.  This completely disabled the oven from operation.  The only way to stop the beeping was to either physically remove the oven or trip the Circuit Breaker (which also shut off our conventional, working oven).  Rumor has it that the cause of the fault is a $0.14 thermal resistor made in Korea that GE doesn't stock.  This part is apparently failing beyond specification.  Have heard of some owners removing this resistor from the circuit (connecting the wires), but this removes a safety mechanism.\n\nAfter 6 weeks of tring to get GE to live up to their warranty, we are at wits end.  GE does not perform its own warranty service, but contracts out to local appliance service companies.  Each time GE processed a waranty service referral, it took 5 days, at the end of which the referral company REFUSED TO PERFORM GE WARRANTY WORK!  Apparently GE has a bad habit of not paying these service companies in a timely manner.  After 5 REFERRALS no one will do the work.  The warranty is essentially useless.\n\nOur neighbors have the same oven with the same problem, which has remained unresolved after 4 MONTHS.  Finally GE agreed to cut them a check for $1600 (note that the GE website price is $2200 and we paid the builder $2500).  I bet GE finds a way to come out and pick up the oven after they send a check.\n\nIf offered replacement money, our choices are to buy another Advantium (the Edsel of microwaves) and risk the same nightmare, or buy another brand which won't fit our cabinetry cutout and won't match the adjacent GE profile appliances.\n\nThanks GE.  You have encouraged me to buy foreign.  Or look for a class action suit.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2666, "id": 483586, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 377, "len_tokens": 464, "text": "This was a terrible purchase.  I actually admired it in the showroom for a year before I purchased it.  Boy do I regret it.\nI replaced a Kitchen-Aid Superba that just had problem after problem.  When the computer finally went out I purchased this one.\n\nWhat a disaster from the start.\n\nMy first (baked) meal was prepared on a cold Chicago November evening.  And to think... I was actually cooked out of my kitchen (that has  an open floor plan and vaulted ceilings).  After much research, the issue is how the range is designed.\n\nThere's a gap in the front of the range above the door and below the controls.  Also, there is a fan that starts on the oven to blow hot air to prevent the controls from melting.  I called Electrolux and they told me that this is how the range is engineered and they know that it will heat up your kitchen 7-10 degrees.\n\nAll I could think of was being cooked out in the winter, I will never be able to use my oven as soon as Spring hits.\n\nI complained to my sales guy and he agreed to take it back from me and I purchased GE Cafe 30\" Stainless Steel Slide-In Gas Range With Baking Drawer - CGS985SETSS  This one doesn't leak heat.\n\nOther notes: the oven did cook beautifully.... but I can't tolerate the heat loss\nWhen I open the oven door too fast its like it blows out the flames and suddenly I get a whiff of gas until it re-ignights.\nThe oven drawer only goes up to 170 degrees, which your food can cool off pretty quick if you try to use it for very long.  I have more luck storing things in my microwave turned off than using the bottom drawer \"warming\" oven.\nThe details on the stovetop dials rubbed off within a month.\n\nAs another reviewer noted, the large burner is difficult to regulate.... especially for simmer which supposedly it excels at.\n\nI have no idea what test market actually approved this product to be built and sold, but I'd be surprised if you found anyone who is an avid cook that actually  LIKES this thing.  Congratulations team--I will never purchase another Electrolux appliance again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2667, "id": 303553, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 337, "len_tokens": 437, "text": "I have a Maytag Model MEP5775BAF Oven that needed a new Bake Element (this is the lower element) and this fit perfect and took less than 3 minutes to replace. Even though I have a Maytag this Whirlpool part is made for several models. Here is the different part numbers this Heating Element is knows as: W10310274 (AP4567080) replaces 74010883, 1863288, AH3407743, EA3407743, PS3407743. Whirlpool brands include Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and others.\nBefore you start make sure you shut off the power to the Stove/Oven from the Service (Breaker) Panel - just flip the switch to off. You'll need a Philips screwdriver to remove the 2 each screws on the back oven wall. Once the screws are removed slowly pull the heating element out from the wall to disconnect the 2 wire connections.\nNote: The hardest part of this whole task is getting the old element out from the backside of the oven without the electric terminals coming loose and stuck behind the oven wall. If that happens youll have to remove the stove back panel to get to this area, which means youll have to remove the stove away from the kitchen wall to get to it. A big pain!\nI find moving the heating element side to side will allow the interior wall insulation to unwrap itself from the terminal leads at the tips of the elements. If everything goes right you should have about 3 or 4 inches of wire exposed though the cavity. Now just disconnect the electrical lead on each end of the heating element and swap them out to the new heating element. Reinstall the 2 screws and wipe off the new heating element with a damp towel to remove fingers prints, debris, etc. Oils from your hands could cause a hot spot and burn the new element at that area. Now turn the Breaker back on and turn the oven to bake. Wait 3 - 5 seconds and you should sense heat. Good luck!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2668, "id": 101899, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 385, "len_tokens": 461, "text": "I have never been so happy to do my laundry!\n\nI live in the city. I am on a fixed income and disabled. Like most buildings on my area, there are no on-site laundry facilities, and my apartment does not have washer hookups. Laundromats are expensive (!!!), and my clothing is frequently damaged by machines. Plus, hauling heavy laundry in all weather is difficult with my health issues.\n\nWringing out the excess water is the hardest part of laundry. I don't mind washing out small batches of clothing by hand in a utility bucket, but I could never wring our the clothes well enough to get them to dry on a rack before a sour or moldy smell set in. Wringing hurts my hands and is bad for my arthritis. This drier is just what I needed!\n\nThis spin drier wrings clothing drier than a commercial washing machine does! I do a load it in small batches (less than 5 minutes each), and use the final rinse water to start my next bucket of wash (or water the plants, or mop the floor etc). The clothing comes out damp and dries in just hours where it used to take a whole day! I still have to take jeans, blankets and towels to the laundromat, but I will save so much time and money that I do not mind.\n\nThe motor is quiet, and the device runs for less than 5 minutes and uses little energy. I recommend leaving the top open after use to make sure it dries completely, and giving it an occasional spray of something antibacterial to keep it fresh.\n\nThis would be handy for families with small kids, especially those transitioning from diapers to underwear who may need to rinse out lots of wet undies. Good for wringing out wet bathing suits, delicate laundry, use in RVs, college dorms, and in apartments like mine.\n\nNote: there are two set screws on the bottom of this drier as it comes out of the package. You will need a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove it. Do not run the machine until you remove both screws. I almost made that mistake! It is marked on the top of the machine, so it you are in an excited hurry like I was, you might overlook the label.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2669, "id": 401353, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 373, "len_tokens": 418, "text": "I will be posting a video to accompany my review. This machine is quite the little helper. My currant situation requires me to hand wash clothes since I am now living in a two room apartment in a city. I never had to hand wash before and was always use to a washer. This machine isn't a set-and-go so much as a full size washer. It only helps with hand washing small garments and items of the sorts. The less you put in the machine, the better the results. I am quite happy with the results of the wash and the clothing really does come out cleaner than a large size washer. Perfect for the clothing of two people and I do produce allot of laundry for one person. Just takes a moment to get use to the machine and to know its limits. Once a routine is established, you are good to go. The only complaint I would have is that first of all you have to know where the max fill is. Since there is no markings, I had to fill it up till the water didn't drop from the top securement when running (about 1/4 of the way from the top of the machine or 3/4 full of water including garments) and also, the bottom of the unit gets hot from the spin cycle of its ran too long. Put a fan pointed at it and it will be okay. Can't handle too much weight in the spin basket but can wash a bit more than 6 lbs. just have it close to the water source and close to a drain. I have it on the kitchen counter, next to the sink and it just fits. If it wobbles from the spin just even out the clothing or put less in the basket. I do recommend this product to those who even just want a small washer to take on small tasks. Example, it can wash your work uniform and under garments for the following day if you are in a pinch. All the positive reviews on here are very helpful and I will be contributing a video to help you get an idea of how to use this machine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2670, "id": 59826, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 437, "len_tokens": 494, "text": "The little dishwasher does a great job at washing dishes. I purposely left a plate overnight to let the food dry on to see how well this little dishwasher did and it did a great job at cleaning the stuck on food(for the cycle duration I would expect it to[more on this later]). I know you are supposed to do a pre-wash before loading the dishwasher but had to try this to see how well it did.\nI do have two complaints about this compact counter top dishwasher though and the reason for not giving it 5 stars:\nFIRST COMPLAINT: The dish rack is built all wrong. I have a difficult time loading the rack to get the maximum amount of dishes in the dishwasher. If you have large dishes the gap in the rack is still to big to keep them from hanging down on the rear right side of the rack and will allow the spray arm to get hung up. To compensate though I just put my glasses or similar objects in this area.\nSECOND COMPLAINT: The duration of wash cycles, the dishwasher has 5 settings. besides the 12 minute pre-wash cycle the next shortest time is 70 minutes long and the longest according to the instruction booklet is 125 minutes long. My old counter top dishwasher this was bought to replace did a great job in a lot less time(45 minutes for the heavy cycle and 25 for the economy cycle).\n\nMy previous counter top dishwasher was a Haier HDT18PA and lasted for almost 3 years. I loved it but wanted to try something I was hoping to be better and last maybe even longer. If I could trade this Danby in for a Haier HDT18PA I would do that though. What upset me about Haier was the fact I was not able to get any customer support, after trying to call them numerous times I never did get through to get any actual help.\nI hope if I come across any problems with this Danby dishwasher their customer support proves to be reliable.\n\nUPDATE:\nI have had this dishwasher now for awhile and the more I use it the less I like it. The main reason for not liking it now is the length of time it takes to wash dishes. I have come to find myself hand washing the dishes so i can get them dried and put away quicker then this dishwasher can. I can usually hand wash the dishes I have in about 10 minutes, dry them and have them put away in 15 minutes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2671, "id": 513848, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 344, "len_tokens": 419, "text": "Unlike some of the other negative reviewers, I actually own THIS model of the dryer, which I got at Sears Outlet.  I have been blown away by it from the moment I got it. It's HUGE... and I had an overflowing basket of wet clothes, some of them very thick towels and jeans... and this thing dried them to ridiculously dry in 40 MINUTES.  Between this and my slightly smaller but still huge LG WM3570HVA Washer (basically the same, but with a circular front and a tad bit smaller than the matching washer for this dryer,) I am getting huge loads of laundry done in less than an hour and a half.  It's just crazy.  And it dries all types of huge items pretty quick too... 60 minutes tops and everything is as dry as can be, towels, comforters, etc...  With my family of 12 in the house, I can keep up with ALL the laundry for 10 kids and 2 adults easily with these two.  I bought these on the recommendation of another huge family friend... who also has 10 kids. Her TWO sets of LG washer and dryers (different models) are still going strong after 12 years and her repair man said they are the best washers out there and rarely run into issues!\n\nOne of the main reasons I wanted LG as opposed to other brands is their DirectDrive Motors... I do a ton of comforters, sleeping bags, etc... (as you can imagine with my large family) and it's impractical to have my washer get out of balance by these heavy loads. I needed a washer and dryer that could handle these; and these LGs are definitely doing the trick!\n\nThe steam feature needs filtered water; but it works great and I use it particularly for freshening up clothes; or to disinfect my pillows without soaking them in the washer.  Great for killing off dust mites.  I am not disappointed in anything... my kids only wish it lit up inside while running so they could watch the clothes go around. LOL", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2672, "id": 29774, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 369, "len_tokens": 431, "text": "I purchased this item to clean the inside of my car and generally avoid those expensive vacuum station at car washes. It performs this job pretty well. Yes, you may have to manually dislodge things that are trapped by fibers, but you pretty much have to do that with any vacuum. This vacuum comes with a variety of miniature attachments similar to what comes with a household vacuum cleaner. These attachments are made of black plastic with a rectangular shaft which fits into a rectangular hole in the clear front section of the vacuum.\n\nThis vacuum operates by collecting dirt and debris inside the conical clear section which detaches from the blue base unit which contains the motor and a filter. The dust catcher is detached from the base by pushing a mechanical release button. The dust catcher is fitted with a flexible black ring which forms a seal between the two halves of the vacuum while it is in use.\n\nThe vacuum does collect both solid and liquid waste. However, I do not recommend trying to use it to collect liquid hydrocarbons such as kerosene. While there is no significant danger of fire, the kerosene or other \"light\" hydrocarbon will react with the black plastic seal so that it eventually stretches. If this seal stretches too much, the unit can not be reassembled. However, this does not appear to be a problem with water.\n\nThis unit really is a surprisingly powerful wet/dry vacuum which operates off the 12V utility outlet in your motor vehicle. It picks up typical passenger compartment debris from dead leaves to small rocks and water based liquid spills. But, do not expect to have a cyclone in your hand. As already mentioned by others, it does not have an adapter for 115V AC. Fortunately, its power cable is rather long and you should have little trouble reaching the various parts of your passenger compartment.\n\nFinally, I know about the kerosene problem from experience. This little vacuum was effective at collecting kerosene out of interior carpet. However, the seal ring did eventually stretch so badly that I could not reassemble the unit. However, I am still quite satisfied with it and am ordering a replacement.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2673, "id": 193186, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 351, "len_tokens": 417, "text": "My house was built in 1928. The laundry room was designed to fit a washer only, no room for a dryer. I had seen the Solaris but no one had reviewed it. It looked a lot like another dryer that blew hot air and all reviews were bad. Finally, thought that I could try it and return it if I didn't like it.\n\nI installed it myself. The directions could be a bit clearer and photographs with steps would make it easier to hang. I was able to hang the dryer alone. Important detail to hanging the dryer is to screw mounting pins in before trying to hang. They rest on the mounting brackets. They are not screwed into the bracket. Screw directly into dryer. Then hang. One person can do set up. No need for more people.\n\nDried a full load of heavy sweatpants and sweatshirts. Set timer for normal dry, 60 minutes, hot air. Watched water mist the vinyl as hot air blew. After an hour, the clothes were slightly damp. Turned dryer on for another 30 minutes. Completely dry in 90 minutes. Before drying, I did use my spin dryer to remove extra water from my clothes. I dried a total of 13 garments. The last time, I line dried sweatpants in the house, it took 24 hours.\n\nI recommend this dryer if you are unable use a standard dryer. It takes a little longer than a conventional dryer but is dramatically faster than line drying. Maximum load capacity is 14 clothing items, using drying rods in machine and hangers provided. I also recommend a spin dryer to remove excess water from your clothes before using Solaris. The price is reasonable. Not silent to operate but is quiet. Can install in any room. Mine is in my bedroom. Easy to put clothes away. After being without a dryer for a year, am happy to have a dryer. Will keep line drying clothes in good weather but now am able to do laundry when it is rainy or foggy. Even thinking about buying another to get laundry done faster!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2674, "id": 392891, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 355, "len_tokens": 434, "text": "This ice make stopped working after about 10 months of daily use, far too short a life for such an expensive appliance, hence the 1-star review.  Unfortunately nearly all the competing models of this capacity seem to be of near-identical design.\n\nUntil it died, I overall liked this ice maker.  Some other comments about it:\n- It makes ice quickly, but can only hold a moderate amount (2.3 lbs?), which is fine if you are emptying it regularly, but filling a large bag or cooler would take constant emptying all day.\n- The cubes come out frozen but melt as they sit in the collection basket and so are are cold but a bit \"melty\".overall.  They're not nearly as cold or hard as the cubes from my freezer's icemaker.\n- This means they melt and dilute your drinks quicker, if that matters to you. It also means if you put them in a freezer to refreeze them, them tend to stick together..\n- The ice maker itself can be quite noisy at times.  Not just the clatter of ice as it is dumped but occasional assorted whines, groans, wheezes and whirs as it makes the ice, sometimes load enough to be heard at the far end of my house from the ice maker.\n- We like to use filtered water for the ice maker.  The PUR 18-cup dispenser/filter matches the capacity of the ice maker and works well for us.\n- The temperature range the ice maker allows is quite limited, IIRC, about 50-86 degrees.\n- This sucker is pretty big.  It barely fits under the upper cabinets on our counter, and when under there you can't lift the lid, so you have to have it sit on the edge of the counter to lift the lid.\n- Huge pet peeve: The stainless steel body comes lined in a thick blue plastic wrap that goes UNDER assorted screws and fixtures attached to the body.  So as you pull the wrap off, the blue wrap stretches and frays around the edges of the screws and fixtures looking horrible and being a huge pain to pick out.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2675, "id": 57839, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 332, "len_tokens": 400, "text": "I live on the 3rd floor of a apartment style condo building, the builders of this building in their infinite wisdom ran my dryer vent under the concrete floor, so my dryer vent line is a big \"L\" shape that is a run of 55 feet long..I know \"why right?\", and I can't access the outside vent because the thing is 25 feet off the ground.\nI had a duct cleaning company come out and give me a price on cleaning my dryer vent...they wanted $500 to rent a hydraulic lift + labor blah blah...I was like \"no fricking way\" so I turned to the internet which pointed me to this product, after watching countless youtube videos of this thing in action, I gave it a shot. Note to user read the directions, each rod has to be tightened with wrenches and taped, I didn't have a problem doing this but the piece of mind of it being totally secured, I had to use 18 rods..I would of hated loosing one 50ft deep in the vent. also your suppose to use it from the outside vent to the inside and while doing this have the dryer on, I had no choice but to go from the inside to the outside with no dryer vent air blowing...but I'll tell you what.... the 1st run down 55ft and then backing it out with the vacuum attachment the 4\" vent hole I pulled a basketball size bag of lint out of my shop vacuum. the 2nd run down 55ft up came another basketball size pile of lint...I'm like \"Ive got a lint beach ball now\" Now I'm the only one in the building that has steam coming out of their vent in the middle of winter in Wisconsin. this thing slayed the dryer vent beast, I highly recommend this product. the rods are flexable the design is average, but it works. plus i used a leaf blower to make sure the job was complete.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2676, "id": 205228, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 353, "len_tokens": 415, "text": "I installed this unit about 36 hours ago, so things could still swirl down the tubes, but there is a lot of reason for optimism.\n\nWe've had the Kenmore Elite version of the LG refrigerator for almost six years now.  Within the past two, the ice maker began giving us problems.  The major problem was it would often not stop making ice when the bin was full.  The result was the ice would pile up on top of the ice maker, eventually physically stopping it from dumping the cubes. Eventually, the water outlet would also freeze, which meant getting rid of some ice and getting out the wife's hair dryer.  The problem was the arm that is supposed to signal the bin is full. This unit has a different design for that arm that solves the problem.\n\nThe original unit stored the arm in the up position and would attempt to drop it to detect when the ice bin is full.  Ours would get trapped under the newly dumped ice, which for whatever reason did not put the brakes on the ice making process.  The new design starts with the arm in the down position, tucked under the ice maker.  It attempts to raise the arm when it is ready to dump and refill.  If it can not, the process stops until the ice level gets low enough to allow the arm to swing up.  The arm returns to the down position before the cubes get dumped, so there is no chance the arm can get trapped in the up position.  Problem solved!\n\nThe housing around the water outlet also has changed.  This is smaller and looks better protected.\n\nInstallation is easy: two mounting screws, a plug for the wires and a grounding wire that gets screwed into the ice maker.\n\nIce makers have always been problematic. I expect 5-7 years before I have to replace them. At least from the design change, I don't think I'll be replacing this one for the same reason as its predecessor.\n\nThe vendor, Quickshipparts, got the unit to us in three days, which is very quick.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2677, "id": 52539, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 394, "len_tokens": 470, "text": "In January of 2009 we purchased a Whirlpool Duet washer and dryer set from East Coast Appliance in Newport News, Virginia.\n\nIn October 2010 the washer started to make a significant noise when the drum was spinning.  We had a service technician check the washer and he advised us the drum and rear tub shell needed to be replaced.\n\nI called your customer service personnel and was advised that the only remedy they could provide was a 50% discount on parts.\n\nOn Dec 1st I talked to Tasha at Whirlpool and ordered the two parts.  I asked for email confirmation on the order and Tasha stated she would do that.  I also left several phone numbers as contacts.  All of the phones have either an answering machine for voice mail.  I have not received that email conformation.\n\nA Whirlpool box arrived on 6 December and I arranged for the technician to make the repairs on December 11.  When the technician arrived and opened the box, only one of the two parts had been delivered.  There had been no communication from Whirlpool advising me that one of the parts had been backordered and there was no invoice on the box.\n\nOn December 12th I submitted a customer comment on your website and asked that I be called.\n\nOn December 13th I called twice and both times was disconnected both times.\n\nOn December 14th I talked to Danielle.  At first she advised that the order had been completed.  Then, on further checking she noted that the rear tub shell had been back ordered.  She could not give an estimated time when it would arrive.  When I asked why no one had contacted me to advise me that one of the parts was back ordered, she stated that that was not Whirlpool policy.  When I asked if someone could call me when the part arrived she stated that could not do that.\n\nWhile I understand that an extended warranty is available and would have protected me, I believe that what is supposed to be a top of the line washer should not have major problems within two years of purchase.  As there are only two of us at home, it is not that the washer is getting heavy use.\n\nBut, what is more discouraging to me is what I perceive as an unacceptable level of customer service.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2678, "id": 570939, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 382, "len_tokens": 417, "text": "The worst thing about this machine was that it broke down in less than a year with no more than 10 uses. The best thing about this machine is that a broke down in less than a year and that led me to buying a different portable washing machine that I am in love with. But I'm not here to talk about my new machine that I replaced this machine with. After this machine broke down I called Amazon and they refunded all of my money and send me a shipping label to return the broken machine to them. Thank you Amazon! So, I added a bit more money to it and bought a new machine from Amazon that I love!!! However, the machine that I'm giving the review on leaked from day one so I only used it outside on the covered deck which wasn't that big of a deal being outside. It was a bit of a pain having to take the clothes from the washer and put them into the rinse and spin dryer side of the machine. Then I would have to switch the water hose from the washing machine portion side of it over to the rinse and spin dry side of it each time I did a load. So, I guess you can say that it was a bit of a pain in the you-know-what  however the fact that I hate going to laundromat made this extra step worth all the extra work for me. I say this because if you expect to just throw your clothes in the washer, walk away and think that when you're coming back all you have to do is throw them in the a dryer or hang them on your clothes line......well, expect a little bit more work. I do not recommend this machine. There are other portable machines that will wash, rinse and spin all in the same drum just like a regular wash machine but portable and smaller like the one I replaced this machine with. Oh yes one more thing that I forgot to mention is that you are only supposed to use cold water with this machine. I give only one start for this washing machine but I do give Amazon five stars for their service.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2679, "id": 360997, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 386, "len_tokens": 462, "text": "I wanted one of these (sleek flat stoves) forever.  I thought it would be the solution to all my problems as far as keeping my stove clean.  But boy was I wrong!\n\nThis thing gets food \"seasoned\" onto it like it's nobody's business.  It does it in seconds, before it has time to cool so you can wipe it off.  It does it with anything and everything.  Like, If you are boiling potatoes, god forbid they should boil over (which seems to be a ritual practice for my family), the water will instantly evaporate and what you are left with is caramelized on potatoes starch.\n\nIf you get hot sugar on it or leave an empty pot heating, it is possible to warp the glass.  I use cast iron which I used to season right on the stove - can't do that anymore.  I am actually afraid to use cast iron at all, since I could potentially drop it and crack the glass.\n\nIt is impossible le to regulate temperatures since the burner stays blistering hot once it is hot because, well, it is glass and that does not cool as rapidly as metal.  So if you bring something to a boil and then want to lower it to a simmer, it will continue to boil for longer than you'd expect.\n\nSomeone in a comment had said that this is not for someone who cooks a lot and my first thought was \"psh, they just don't know what they're doing!\"  But now I know what they meant.  If you want to run your kitchen like a restaurant chef, then this is not for you.  If you are a fast cook, this is probably not for you.  This is for patient people who take a lot of care not to spill or shake their pans on the stove.\n\nBut now I'm stuck with this, so I will deal.\n\nI still love the flat surface, though.  I wish there was a way to incorporate that and the sturdiness of an electric or gas stove.  That would be perfect.\n\nAll that said, this works just as good as other glass cooktop and it looks pretty when it is kept clean (may the force be with you).  I also love that it is not digital but has knobs.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2680, "id": 66228, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 404, "len_tokens": 464, "text": "When we had our second floor master bedroom and upstairs laundry room added to our home, built mostly over our garage, the contractor used a flexible type dryer vent hose and ran it between the new floor and the ceiling of the existing garage.  It's approx. 20 ft. long, mostly a straight run but with a curve to come up thru the laundry room floor to connect to the dryer.  It vents to the outside on a side wall over the garage.  I was very concerned about trying to use this cleaning system to clean out that length of hose and in an area that, if it failed in anyway, would require either pulling up a part of the floor or pulling down a part of the ceiling in the garage in order to remove the brush.  To clean this length of vent hose, I decided to start from the outside and finish from the inside.  I took off the vent outlet and disconnected the hose from the dryer.  Hooked up my shop vac at the dryer end using the adapter supplied and then started running the brush in from the outside using my cordless drill.  I followed the instructions to the letter when connecting rod sections, taping the joints securely with black electric tape.  It worked perfectly!  There were places that I could tell that the hose wasn't exactly straight and the rotating brush just cruised along without any binding or slowing down.  I ran the full length of rods back and forth several times to free up as much of the lint as possible.  Then I switched to the inside, again using the adapter, I first inserted the brush with one rod connected, thru the adapter and into the vent.  Then I secured the adapter again to the vent hose using the hose clamp from the dryer so that I was vacuuming and brushing from the same end.  This is the end that also had the sharper bent where the hose went into the floor turning 90 deg. under the floor.  Again it worked perfectly, navigating the curve(s) with ease.  I had to clean the vac filter canister several times to keep it from clogging too much and I was very careful not to reverse the drill.  This system saved me money big time as a vent cleaning of this type in our area would be at least $100 each time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2681, "id": 62494, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 386, "len_tokens": 465, "text": "Washer is great!\n\nWe got ours in April 2009, so we have had it over six months now.\n- Water bill has been cut by approximately 1/3 ($720 down to $480 per year).\n- Water savings alone mean it will pay for itself in less than four years.\n- Machine uses about half the amount of laundry detergent per load than our old machine.\n- Capacity is enormous.  We do about half the loads we used to.  You will be surprised how much you can fit in one load.\n- I'm sure the hot water bill is less also, but I can't quantify those savings since we got a new furnace around the same time.\n- Clothes take much less time to dry because they are so much drier when they come out of the washer.\n- Quiet.  Quality machine, no problems.\n\nThe new high-efficiency washers are very different from your old top loader.  Most of the complaints that you will read about are caused by improper installation or use.\n- The washer *must* be adjusted to be level in order to work properly. The clothes will not be spun properly if it's not level.\n- Don't use too much soap - if you do, you will have electrical and other problems\n- You *must* use high efficiency laundry detergent\n- If you leave the door closed all the time, you will get mold.  You have to leave the door ajar when not in use.\n- The wash cycle does take longer than a traditional top loader, but you make up for it in the dry cycle.\n- It will look like there is almost no water in the machine when it is running.  It is designed to work this way.  The clothes do get clean!\n\nIt's true that the clothes are often twisted when you pull them out.  I give each item a quick shake to straighten them out, then toss them in the dryer.\n\nUnless your dryer is broken, don't bother getting a new one.  You won't need it.\n\nThe only negative: you can't do small, heavy loads very well.  When I need to wash the bath rug, I have to wash it with other items (like old towels) or the washer won't run properly (because of how it needs to spin).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2682, "id": 185804, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 375, "len_tokens": 473, "text": "DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY!  I purchased this washer in June of 2009.  Within the first few weeks of ownership, it broke.  Serviceman came to the house and apparently fixed the machine. (It would not go into a high speed revolution to drain the water so the clothes were dripping at the end of the cycle.)  Later that day I tried another load of wash and discovered the problem was still not fixed and another service call was required.  This second guy said I needed a new \"motherboard\" but the part needed to be ordered.  No machine for a week and still another service call to install the part.  Finally got everything up and running and after complaining, Whirlpool extended my service contract for another 2 years for my inconvenience making it a total of 3 years.\n\nSince the initial repair dating back to when I first purchased the unit, I have required service two more times with the latest one today.  Was on the phone with Whirlpool for 48 minutes to schedule service appt..  (My extended warranty is about to expire in 7 days)  This machine is exactly three years old and it's just me using the machine.  I average about two loads of laundry a week so it's not like it's overworked.  This time the machine is dead in the middle of the cycle- filled with water and won't spin- just hums.  I asked Whirlpool to make an additional concession going forward since I don't trust this machine but they aren't willing to do anything.  If you only expect a washer to last 3 years with numerous repairs- this is your baby.  I discovered Whirlpool has numerous sister companies- KitchenAid, Jenn-Air and Amana- so I would suggest staying away from those front load washers as well.\n\nOne final thought- this particular machine loves to harbor mold.  Once the machine is finished with it's washing cycle, you have to get the clothes out within a few hours or they will begin to smell.  I've washed the machine periodicaly with bleach but the problem still occurs. Seems to be a common problem with many front loaders.  Once my machine breaks again- because you know it will- I'll be replacing it with an old school top loader.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2683, "id": 458425, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 350, "len_tokens": 418, "text": "What does this fridge have in common with the Kardashians? They're all worthless and I won't be a bit sad when they die. You too, Bruce. Ok, sorry about that.\n\nWithin the first year, a fuse blew on the main board. Do you think that the fuse can just be removed and replaced? Yes, as long as you're handy with a soldering iron. That was the first indicator that this thing was meant to generate service calls. I am handy, so I did replace the glass in-line fuse with a fuse holder, so now I can easily replace the fuse next time it blows, but 95% of the suckers that buy this POS will not do that-and shouldn't have to!\n\nAnd more happy news: most of the plastic bins, as well as the plastic framework that holds the shelves and drawers are broken. There are missing pieces of plastic everywhere. The right door currently has no bins, because they've all snapped off. By looking at it, you would think that this thing was 10 years old and owned by a bunch of drunken frat boys, but no, just me, wife and kids.\n\nThe main reason I bought this was for the energy savings, which is ok, but the thing seems to run constantly, so I doubt I'm saving as much as I should be.\n\nThe good thing is that LG helped me in two ways:\n1. Educational - I've learned that LG sells crap and is not a company that will ever see another dime of my $.\n2. Exercise - Got plenty of that when dodging all the broken glass that used to be my food jars/bottles that fell when the bins snapped off. Also, all the cleaning and mopping afterward got a good sweat going.\n\nI am so disgusted with this thing that I can't even bring myself to buy an LG television (or ANY LG product), even though those reviews are mostly good. LG (short for Lousy Goods?), you are killing yourself by selling crap like this. Either do it right or don't do it at all!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2684, "id": 492760, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 320, "len_tokens": 442, "text": "I have been using this stove top for only a few weeks.  Here are the highlights.  1.  It looks gorgeous.  2.  It is incredibly easy to clean, and takes about 2 minutes, using stove top polish, a paper towel and a soft cloth.  3.  It is easy to use.  Using gas for 50 years, this is a totally new experience.  Controls are responsive.  The hi and low settings are incredible.  Love the timer too.  4.  It cooks fast, and is accurate.  When you want to get something up to a boil, you use a high setting, then when you want to take it down to a simmer, you just push the dial, and it immediately becomes a simmer.  It is frankly, amazing to cook on this stove.  And, also fun.  I love to show my guests how fast it is.  Boiling water is super fast.  1 quart for tea in about 2 minutes.\nPeople worry about having to replace their cookware.  Most of my favorite pieces were clad and ready for induction.  I have bought a few pieces, and that was also fun.\n\nIf you love cooking, you will love it even more with this cooktop.  Regarding it breaking, I purchased the extended warranty, and will cross that bridge when I come to it.\nWell, the cooktop blew out on Nov. 18th, 2018, the Saturday before Thanksgiving.  Electrolux rep was unavailable, and today, Jan. 5, 2018, I am still without a cooktop.  My 5 year extended warranty, finally, last night, issued me a buy out.\nBecause of the large opening in my granite to install this unit, I may be forced to buy it again.  If I have to I will, but would prefer to try another brand.  Electrolux, which is owned by Frigidare, has been unhelpful, and caused me to go thru Thanksgiving, my husbands birthday, Christmas and New Years without a cooking appliance.  Very disappointed in the company.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2685, "id": 362948, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 338, "len_tokens": 432, "text": "I will start by saying, the customer service from the manufacture was exceptional.  Quick responses, very courteous and very willing to help.  Now for the bad.  I have wanted an ice maker for years.  After full kitchen renovation and a custome space built in for an ice maker, we pulled the trigger.  I did a considerable amount of research and price shopped for months.  I purchased this unit online from the manufacturer at a sale price with the pump and a 5 year warranty.  I figured with the warranty, we could put up with it breaking occasionally as long as we could get it fixed with no additional expense.  I was wrong.\n\nThe product makes great cubes.  They come out in sheets that you need to break up.  Not a big deal.  We upgraded from the plastic scoop to a metal scoop.  This was a must.  It's pretty quiet event when making ice.  Produces a lot of ice in a short period time.  We entertain a lot and it could always keep up.  After the first 6 weeks, it stopped moving water to make ice.  The water pump failed.  After some back and fourth and two weeks, it was fixed at no cost.  About 2 months later, we noticed water all over the floor.  This time the drain sensors failed.  The unit was completely exchanged for a new unit.  A pain considering the size and packaging.  We just switched boxes, but a pain non the less.  This unit ran perfectly for about 4.5 months.  Again, water on the floor.  The drain sensors are not consistent on theses units.  A tap or a kick usually activates/loosens the sensor to drain the water.  This was the last straw for me.  The unit was returned for a full refund to include the warranty refund, with really no questions asked.  I have ordered the Manitowac under counter machine for more $.  Let's see what happens.  Under no circumstances purchase a machine like this without a reputable extended warranty.  You will regret it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2686, "id": 339413, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 388, "len_tokens": 432, "text": "We have hard water in our area and as a result we have a lot of mineral build-up on just about every faucet and appliance that uses water. It is bad enough that we have pots and pans that have been ruined by the build-up of mineral deposits after a couple of boils. I was a little skeptical that these pill-shaped drop-ins for my humidifier would help much with those deposits, and so far they have worked as advertised and kept my humidifier clean.\n\nThese are simple and straightforward to use - fill the humidifier tank with water, drop one of these tabs into the water and run the humidifier as normal. It does not get much easier. It does not seem to interfere with operation or with the flow and it does not add a chemical smell to the vapor.\n\nI use a cool-mist humidifier in my home office and I decided to try these tabs with it. After normal use it is not unusual to see a little bit of mineral deposits around the spout after a couple of days. With the tab in the humidifier I noticed that the build-up is significantly less. I also noticed that the vapor that comes out does not smell the same as before but it does not smell of chemical either - it smells somewhat cleaner and fresher, though it is not a huge difference. I noticed this because I looked for it.\n\nAccording to the instructions on the packaging, these tabs contain no chemicals and the ball inside them does not dissolve. So, it must instead absorb the stuff in the water that otherwise would build up. I am very interested to see what the tab looks like when it comes out of the tank.\n\nI am not completely sure how these tabs work, but they definitely do work and they make my humidifier run cleaner. Considering that these things are cutting down on residue and the need for constant cleaning, they are worth their asking price to me and I will be buying more.\n\nDisclaimer: I was provided a sample of this product in exchange for a fair, honest and thorough review. Even though I received this product at no cost I have rated and reviewed this product without bias, based solely on my experience with it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2687, "id": 468505, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 316, "len_tokens": 401, "text": "I purchased this fridge because I had a tiny kitchen.  On a cu ft basis it is one of the most expensive fridges you can buy.  I have redone 3 kitchens in the past 5 years, and have spent about $30,000 on appliances.  I have never seen such poor quality.  The MAIN problem is that the refrigerator slopes--the bottom is 2\" further away from the wall than the top even after I adjust the legs as far into the cavity as possible--it looks like a s___ show.  I called Mark Goldman (Summit customer service) to help solving the problem. First he claimed this was how the fridge was designed--the door should close slowly.  I said it doesn't--it SLAMS shut.  Then clearly demonstrating the design story was invalid, Mark told me I could build up my floor with shims!  I said that was ridiculous for $1000 fridge (it's $300 extra for the icemaker).  He said I needed proof there was a problem, so I sent an email with a photo of the slanted fridge and a photo of a 36\" level on the floor to show it was level (i tried to paste photos here, but can't).  Under pressure from the retailer, Summit sent a service rep.  The service rep agreed the floor was level and the legs were into the cavity, so there was nothing he could do to fix the problem--that there was clearly a manufacturing or design flaw.  When Summit received this information, they said since it wasn't a MANUFACTURING flaw (it was the design flaw--so ALL fridges will have the same problem), they weren't required to do anything about it.  So I'm living with the problem.\nAs an aside, the rest of the quality is no better.  the produce drawer is plastic and doesn't slide on the guides well, so soon it will break no matter how careful I am.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2688, "id": 463329, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 377, "len_tokens": 448, "text": "I am writing this review to help spare others what we are going through right now.  We bought a DCS grill seven years ago and the customer service was amazing.  We love the grill and the customer service experiences we had during that purchase led us to purchase the DCS 48in gas cooktop with grill and griddle.  I wish we had realized they have been bought by another company!  Our NEW cooktop we paid around $3800.00 for came to use with missing parts and a drip try that was installed so poorly it would not open.  The tray alignment is off and it bent the frame.  We called DCS immediately expecting the same amazing customer service we had gotten several years ago and were stunned at their reaction which was basically \"too bad\".  They refused to replace the cooktop and were of no help at all.  We went as far up the chain as possible with nothing but the same run around.  They insisted that we get it serviced - OUR BRAND NEW $3800.00 COOKTOP - serviced!  They would not even consider helping us until we had a service company come out and try to fix our new appliance.  They said that the service company would have to deem it irreparable before they would \"try to resolve it\" - not replace it.  The servicemen worked on the drip tray and although it now pulls out, it has to be forced.  They are ordering the missing parts from DCS and those should be in sometime after Christmas.  When you purchase an appliance that costs that much and claims to be a high-end product, you expect the customer service to match their claims.  This cooktop should have been replaced immediately and we cannot believe the hoops we are having to go through.  Furthermore, we are afraid of the issues we may have to face in the future.  What else is wrong with this thing - how did it get damaged - is the quality control so poor that they marked parts as included yet they weren't?  Did they actually inspect this cooktop before it left their warehouse?  We are so angry and are trying to work through the process but I am strongly urging you to choose something else!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2689, "id": 70839, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 401, "len_tokens": 496, "text": "My husband & I just recently got this dishwasher and based on other reviews, we will keep our fingers crossed that it performs the same months from now.  Currently, we love it!  It cleans dishes so much better than our previous dishwasher...but probably because it's an upgrade from what we had before.  We have yet to re-wash a dish & no spots on anything.  Our previous dishwasher left so much food residue on the dishes that I was constantly re-washing in the machine (don't know why) or hand washing.  We don't mind that the cycles take a bit longer either because it's not like we are going to use the dishes right away.  I LOVE that it's quiet, which is another upgrade from our last machine.  That thing was so noisy!  I think it has plenty of room for all kinds of dishes, and we put everything in it.  One reviewer mentioned something about bowls, but we've put bowls of every size in it.  I have no bad things to say about this appliance yet.\n\nUpdate:  As of 10/11/11 we pretty much don't like this dishwasher anymore.  We were SO hopeful too!  At this point I wouldn't say it's the worst dishwasher ever, but you definitely can't overpack it (that's probably for any dishwasher though, right?  maybe?).  Anyway, there must be something up with the detergent dispenser because soap went all over a Pyrex dish that we had in there and hand washing that dish wouldn't even get the soap off!  It's like it doesn't come out right anymore and just leaves a detergent trail down the inside door of the washer.  Most of the dishes do come clean, but now (even with Jet Dry or something similar) some of the glasses come out looking really cloudy.  I have had to re-wash some dishes before or just hand wash them which is highly disappointing.  I guess the only good things I can say about it still is how quiet it is and I like the child lock, which our previous washer didn't have.  *The only thing about the child lock is...it doesn't prevent your child from turning the washer on.  Our son has hit a cycle button before and as long as the dishwasher is completely shut the cycle will start after a few seconds.  So, we have to make sure he turns it off if he turns it on.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2690, "id": 401175, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 296, "len_tokens": 442, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-RFCMJ7GPDL41F\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/F1BcqSZzh3S.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/01gsNrxQtUS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;I received this product at a discount for my honest and unbiased review. I was not influenced by anyone in anyway.\n\nThis is really going to be handy when we get our RV next year and start traveling. It's also handy for those that might live in a place that don't have laundry rooms and or they need something washed quickly. Besides most laundry rooms close down at a certain time, so having this will really help it it's late, the laundry room is closed and you need something washed a.s.a.p.\nAlso great for college dorm students.\n\nThis mini portable counter top washing machine fits perfect on a kitchen counter top. It did not move during washing or spinning. It stayed right in place. The spinning works really well. My clothing items, rung out really well from the spin cycle.. I really love the way this mini portable washing machine handles itself. I was actually quite surprised to see it work so well. This will definitely be going in our RV, (just need to get the RV and we'll be good to go)\n\nPROS:\nsmall, compact\nnot heavy\ndoesn't move at all during wash/spin cycles.\n\nCONS:\nthe hose is situated for one side so I have to turn it around if my sink is on the other side, like it is. wish the hose was in the back center.\nmoves around a little while on.\n\nRemember, don't put anything over 5.5 pounds. This is not for \"let's see how much we can put in it\" type of washer. So you need to be careful, even if you have to get a kitchen scale to weigh out your items, I would and I have.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2691, "id": 87531, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2692, "id": 405024, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 430, "len_tokens": 484, "text": "As our freezer ice maker could not keep up with demand for my family, we started looking at small ice makers. Amazon offers so many but they all kind of look the same until you read each review and look elsewhere for more details.\n\nThe DELLA is awesome! Ours arrived well packaged and protected. Took it out of the box and let it sit for the hour it suggests in the manual. After cleaning the inside and items as suggested, we began making ice. It's fast and consistent during this process. You can set two sizes and I suppose if you used one of those water bottles, the small would be great for this. For us, the large was the way to go.\n\nAfter tossing the first cubs made just to avoid the plastic taste, we just let it run all day long. For us we learned it drops new cubes about every 7-8 minutes like clock work. The only issue we have found is that the cubes are a little wet and if you juts tossed them in the freezer, they will clump together. A simple fix for this, we place new cubes on a cookie sheet in the freezer and wait for the next batch before dropping them into our ice bucket. This seems to work out well for us.\n\nYes, it's a little more work but worth it as this little gizmo makes ice like crazy unlike our freezer ice maker. They are wet I assume by the process and speed it makes ice. Our freezer ice maker does the same thing just quite as bad as it's in the freezer. If you leave the cubs in the bin until the process stops on it's own... You may have a big chunk of ice instead of cubes. With this in mind, we let it drop 4 or 5 times and then pull them to cookie sheet.\n\nThe cubes are just right for us made in a good size for glasses with a round shape with a hole in the top of each one. Oddly, this shape and size appears to melt slower in the glass. Much easier to grab and get into the glass without dropping any on the floor.\n\nAll in all and for the price, we feel this was a great buy and is proving to be a great ice maker. A couple of small adjustments to habit and we see this being a trusty ice maker that will help us get through the summer months here in Arizona without ever buying bag of ice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2693, "id": 554311, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 348, "len_tokens": 408, "text": "Received my CTDW on Friday and I couldn't wait to see what it had to offer seeing as how there are some mixed reviews online.  First off it came in a massive box  that I literally had to drag inside, I cut into the box and it was beautifully packeged in another box with foam blocks on all the corners to protect it from travel.\n\nWhen I opened the second box I was a little nervous because there was water on the outside of the unit, but dry inside, which confused my brain because it was sealed tightly in 2 huge boxes.\n\nI did have a little trouble hooking the unit up I have a Koehler faucet. I ended up popping out both black rubber stoppers to make the unit compatible with my faucet. When I turned on the faucet there was some leaking, eeeeek! So I unscrewed the adapter and wrapped my faucet in some white plumbing tape wala! Problem solved. Granted this is only a temporary solution.  I'll need to buy an adapter.\n\nSo far I've done about 6 loads of dishes and I recommend running your sink till the water is as hot as it can get then attaching the unit before starting your wash cycle. My dishes have been coming out clean and shiny and free of spots with no soap residue. It uses minimal water which pleasantly surprised me!  Way less than when I was my dishes by hand. I use a generic brand dish soap from the local dollar General store, it seems to be as good as any name brand.\n\nAs a single mom that works 2 jobs this is huge for us, my kids like it, I love it, It's so easy to use. No leaks oh my gosh and it's SO QUIET. I kept asking my daughter is it running? Is it running? And as a bonus my daughter is using the boxes to make a box fort castle she's 13 and over 5 get tall. Will keep updated on this unit, but do it, Its a god send!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2694, "id": 391242, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 393, "len_tokens": 480, "text": "It was packaged very carefully and arrived in great condition.\n\nUpon opening the lid, the ice maker had a strong, plastic smell that had me really concerned that the ice would taste bad. I'm pretty picky about my ice, so even a slight \"off\" taste would have been a deal breaker. However, per the instructions, I wiped it thoroughly (I chose white vinegar and warm water) and I dried it carefully before using. The ice tastes great!!\n\nThe machine is very easy to use.\n\nInitially, it made a REALLY loud noise, but that seems to only happen when the cycle first starts. It lasted a few seconds. Afterwards, the sound was like a fridge or quiet dishwasher running (unless dumping ice, of course).\n\nI set mine to \"large\" cubes. The first cubes it made were NOT large. But, as the machine ran longer, the ice became a good size. Unless I just became used to it, the time between dumping ice seemed to decrease the longer the machine ran. I filled up a large mixing bowl of ice in a couple of hours. I used a half gallon of water to accomplish that. At first, I ran to dump the ice each time I heard it hit the basket. Later, I waited up to an hour to dump the filled basket all at once. It didn't melt much at all. There was enough water upon dumping the ice to cause the ice to stick together some when re-frozen. But, it wasn't bad, didn't noticeably affect the size of the cubes, and was easily fixed by gently tapping with a butter knife.\n\nThe ice has a great taste (no plastic smell or flavor) and the texture is awesome. Also, the ice lasts a long time, while in the glass. I was concerned that the hollow center would mean quickly melting ice. Not at all!! It's wonderful!\n\nAs long as this product continues to perform like this, I couldn't be happier. And, at this point, I can't see life without it. I would definitely order it again and I highly recommend it!\n\n*****update*****\nMay 16, 2016\n\nThe unit has stopped working. Continually says \"tray full\" when it's empty. I wiped the sensors and that worked initially, but now it won't do anything. Very disappointed with the product not working anymore. Amazon issued a refund.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2695, "id": 468685, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 322, "len_tokens": 428, "text": "Men from appliance store delivered and set it up 6/19/11. I washed 4 loads that day - choosing \"Normal\" cycle and \"HOT/COLD\" setting each time. I paused the machine and opened door to check the temp. of water. It WASN'T HOT at all - just cool! I checked it numerous times throughout, and it was NEVER hot. We even re-checked hoses and hook-up - all were correct. \"Sanitize\" cycle was warmer, but not really hot. What a disappointment that an expensive \"Rolls Royce\" of a washer can't wash your laundry in HOT water. Why even have a temp. setting option if it won't work. I REALLY want to like this machine - just give me the hot water for my towels and bedding! A service tech is coming on Thurs - after only having it 4 days - NOT a good first impression!\n\nPros: huge capacity!, nice looking machine, quiet\n\nCons: Did not meet expectations, doesn't wash in hot water, door can't be reversed, don't care for tune to signal end of wash, expensive!!\n\nOn 6/23/11, a service tech came out.  He had never seen this problem before and ordered a new heater for it.  I am NOT happy that a brand new machine - less than a week old - should have to have any replacement parts already.  I contacted my salesman at H H Gregg and they will be switching the machine out.  I chose a model below this one - I'm scared to try this one again and have the same issue.  I sure hope that the WF431ABW works out.\n\n****** MY MACHINE \"WAS\" THE WHITE MODEL Samsung WF520ABW/XAA 27\" Front Load Steam Washer with 4.3.  My mistake for putting the review on this page for the Platinum washer, however, like another reviewer wrote: same machine - only a different color.  Regardless:  buyer beware! ******\n\nUPDATE:  I LOVE the new model that I opted for - WF431ABW by Samsung!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2696, "id": 517149, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 359, "len_tokens": 449, "text": "My 30-year-old Kenmore dryer (wow!) was on its last legs, so I researched on line reviews and Consumer Reports. The Samsung DV56H9100GG was well-regarded, but CR listed it as #1 which sealed the deal for me. I bought mine at Home Depot and they delivered it within the week.\n\nI've been using my new dryer for several months and it is quite a step up over the old Kenmore. It is very quiet and energy efficient. Plus there are a variety of spiffy drying options that weren't there in the old days: a \"Wrinkle Prevent\" to keep clothes looking good if you can't get back to the dryer in time; \"Wrinkle Away\" for clean stuff that just needs a spritzing and tumble dry; a variety of settings for anything from light blouses to heavy towels and bedding, and an illuminated drum so you can see what you are doing. They even include a drying rack for tennis shoes, toys, etc., though I usually just stick stuff like that out on the back porch to dry.\n\nThe Samsung dryer is several inches taller than my old Kenmore, which makes me glad I didn't buy the pedestal that raises it off the floor; I don't think it would have fit in my available space and I certainly couldn't fold stuff on the top surface. In any case, check the dimensions of your laundry area before buying.\n\nThis Samsung dryer looks O.K. (shrug, it IS basically a big box) and appears well made. It sounds cute soft musical tones and tunes to signal different features. The \"load finished\" tune is rather long and resembles (to me) an 8-bit version of a \"Pirates of the Caribbean\" drinking song. ;) The lint trap is tucked on the door edge for easy access. Unfortunately, my new dryer door opens to the right and it appears to be a tremendous hassle--possibly impossible--to change the hinge direction.\n\nThis is a pricey critter and if I ever have a problem I'll post an update immediately. I doubt I'll get 30 years like I did with my old Kenmore, but this is a really nice clothes dryer. Five stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2697, "id": 548761, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 379, "len_tokens": 447, "text": "The package was received quickly.  Packaged well.  This product does not come with directions on how to replace the hose on your dishwasher.  I wouldnt expect it to include directions but I thought I would add that just in case another person was wondering.\nSo you are wondering if you can replace your hose unicouple thingy?  Are you willing to risk the $$??\nMy honest answer is YES!!  You can replace it.  I am a single mom, working full time with no family around. If I can figure it out so can you.  Your best bet (IMO) is to youtube a video that walks you through how to change this.  The you tube video was found by searching \"How to change the hose thingy on a GE washer yourself\".  Ha This product is the cheapest I have found to purchase\n\nPROs:\n* Cheaper than hiring a repair man and worth the risk of the price.\n*Cheaper than ordering directly from the manufacturer.\n*Worth the risk of the price because a new portable dishwasher is almost $500 dollars and I cant afford that or the time to hand was all the dishes. Aint nobody got time for that. lol\n*Was able to quickly fix it under an hour.\n* Quality of the product was the same or better that the factory part on the dishwasher.\n*The hose does look cheap or ghetto\n*The couple fits tight and does not leak.\n\nCons:\nYou do need some tools to change the part and you cannot replace it without the tools\n*I believe taking apart the back of the dishwasher and replacing it was a pain more than changing the actual hose.\n* You should have most of the tools that you need since they are somewhat common but be safe and google it or youtube it.\n\nThis was my first review of a product.  No, I did NOT get it for a discount.  I just want to help others out especially to encourage single moms, women, and for people who need a nudge that they CAN do this and feel comfortable buying a product because there are honest reviews.\n\nLet me know if I should add anything else or if you want pictures. :)\nNow order this and get it done! :)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2698, "id": 112514, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 337, "len_tokens": 424, "text": "I'm not happy with this one nor Maytag's service.\n\nI live alone and don't need to do many loads of wash so this Maytag seemed like a good cost/service compromise.  Bought it new in January; after 5 months of very light service it's control system started going brainless at the end of the wash cycle.  Would shut down completely, never would go to rinse or spin.\n\nCalled Maytag service - took 2 hours; person on the other end said she couldn't schedule a warranty repair without the serial number, which I didn't have handy.  Called back 2 days later and got an airhead who said she needed neither model number nor serial number to schedule a warranty service.  First day they could get a serviceman out was about a week away.  Made appointment.\n\nFortunately the service company called a day ahead and I learned they were scheduled to come fix a 6 year old, out of service Whirlpool!!  Got that straighten out.  Told the guy the problem was most likely in the control system and the serviceman should bring a new control module and any known troublesome sensors with him.\n\nOF COURSE, next day he arrives with no parts.  Diagnoses problem as the control module.  Will have to order it and it should arrive in a week or less.  Schedule for him to come out a week later.\n\nNext week -- after 2+ weeks without a functioning washer -- service man arrives, installs parts.  Runs diagnostic program on a tablet computer but does not actually try running the washing machine.  Pronounces the problem fixed.  Leaves.\n\n30 minutes later I try washing one of the many loads of clothes I've accumulated in 2 weeks.  No workee.  Exactly the same problem as before.  Call service company, try to get them to send the guy back.  Sorry, no can do.  Next date we can have a serviceman come is 5 days from now.\n\nI'll give them one more chance to fix it and then I start demanding my money back.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2699, "id": 442841, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 406, "len_tokens": 473, "text": "I am in love with this counter top ice machine.  My refrigerator is 20 years old and the ice machine broke.  So I got this just in time. I hate having to fill and empty ice cube trays.\n\nThe ice machine is a little bigger than a bread baking machine and weighs 25 pounds. It has a modern stainless steel body and a black top with a see thru window.\n\nIt's so easy to use and came with an instruction manual.  You just plug-in and add water. The machines works on its on.  There is an electronic control panel on the front with LED light indicators.  There are metal rods looks like 9 that create the ice.  The basket holds 2.2 pounds of ice.  The machine let's you know when the water is low or the basket is full with the LED lights.\n\nIt is very quiet and the only noise I heard was ice falling in the basket.\n\nWhen I first started it took about 15 minutes to make about 9 medium pieces of ice.  To be honest I though of my gosh it's gonna take a couple days to fill this ice basket at this rate.  After the first batch of ice it started making ice about every 9 minutes.  I noticed after about 2 hours that the basket was almost full.  We made several baskets of ice that day and have been making lots of ice ever since.\n\nI prefer the larger size ice cubes which are not as big as ice cubes in an ice tray but work good in my diet soda and ice tea glasses.  The small size would be great for slushes in the blender.\n\nI like having the window on top so you can see the ice.  Should I get busy and forget to empty the basket,  the ice just melts back into water in the reservoir.\n\nTo change the size of the ice just requires a push of a button for small, medium or large.  There is also a power button to turn on and off.\n\nIt has a drain plug to empty unused water since it says to use fresh water every 24 hrs.\n\nThis is definitely one of my favorite new kitchen gadgets.  My daughter has already asked to borrow it.\n\nIt also has a 12 month warranty which is great.\n\nI did receive this product free in exchange for an honest and unbiased opinion.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2700, "id": 125775, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 390, "len_tokens": 463, "text": "I've had this thing for a few months now and it's definitely easier and more convenient than traditional blowout technique. You can use your free hand to hold the segment of hair you're working on, allowing you to use the brush on your roots without over-drying the more delicate ends. There are lots of great youtube tutorials on the use of this device or similar ones that show various techniques. People complaining about how this thing is hard to use or complicated or confusing seem to be confused by objects that rotate in mirrors. Ce la vie I guess.\n\nPros:\n- Frees up one hand to help with styling\n- Buttons and switches are easy and intuitive to use\n- Seems fairly sturdy; I've dropped mine several times with no breakage\n- Good value for the price. I don't regret buying this and think it was probably worth what I spent on it.\n\nCons:\n- Cool air setting DOES NOT rotate. If you want cool air, you cannot use it while the brush rotates. This is a problem for anyone concerned with heat damage, which I am.\n- Speed and power of rotation is related to heat/power of air. Hotter air = faster rotation. There is no way to control heat independently of rotation speed.\n- Brush size is too small for my personal taste. Since I have 3a curly hair, I use blowouts for straightening, and my blowout curls experience some shrinkage, so the bigger my round brush, the better. I would prefer this brush to be wider than it is.\n- Breakage. My ends are bleached, and heat styling is ALWAYS murder on processed hair. I don't think this brush in particular can be blamed for that; I believe any heat styling will exacerbate damage. I'm trying to grow my hair out and the old, bleached ends are breaking away continually. That's pretty much how it goes. However, the design of this brush means the heat and dryness come from the inside-out, meaning the ends of the hair are getting the worst of it. In traditional blowouts, the ends are wrapped up under the middle of the hair, and the hot air comes from above, meaning the delicate ends are somewhat protected during styling. Take this into consideration and be protective of your ends while using this brush.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2701, "id": 483122, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 415, "len_tokens": 472, "text": "I bought this range with real excitement and in some respects my expectations were rewarded with good performance. I do quite appreciate the smooth cooktop, the double oven concept, the appearance, and the controls. However, this range has been plagued with several significant problems that now two years later make me feel that my money was totally wasted.\n1) The internal enamel of the lower oven door came with a large scratch such that I would not want to cook with it. The store where I bought it gave me a replacement door from the unit they had in stock. I think the scratch was caused by the sliding rack, which if not connected properly is designed such that closing the door will almost inevitably cause it to gauge out enamel from the door when you close the door.\n2) After a year of using the device (so it was outside of the warranty period, I hosted my first thanksgiving. Midway through roasting the turkey we heard a strange load bang. I looked in the oven and found that the rack supporting the turkey had fallen to the bottom of the oven. I optimistically thought it was a one time thing, but later when roasting a chicken the rack also fell. Taking a closer look, I realized the lower over rack support mechanism is totally flawed. The racks do not fit in tightly enough. if you simply push lightly down on a rack when it is in the correct position for cooking, the oven's interior side walls push out enough that the rack passes them and it falls out of place. So I bought an expensive range in which it is impossible to roast even chickens - infuriating. When I contacted Fridgidaire Support, they simply said they had never heard anything like this. They refused to let me speak with anyone other than the phone support person, and she said the best they could do was sell me a new rack for ~$70, thinking maybe the rack itself was faulty. I foolishly bought it and now I have an extra rack that is identical to the ones that came with the stove and Fridgidaire got even more of my money.\n3) Now, the lower oven cannot heat higher than ~200F. The stove is only two years old.\n\nThis range has wasted a significant amount of my money and I am deeply disappointed in this company. I would never by a major product from them again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2702, "id": 301168, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 302, "len_tokens": 400, "text": "The critical installation tip is the outflow pipe should not be any higher than 22 inches, 56 cm, above the bottom of the appliance for the drying function to work. I tried heights ranging from 15 to 50 inches, 38 to 121 cm, above the bottom of the appliance. The drying performance starts to drop off at about 20 inches, 51 cm. Above 30 inches, 76 cm, 2 or more full dry cycles were required to get the clothes close to dry. Above 40 inches, 102 cm, the clothes never dried.\n\nWith the outflow pipe 22 inches above the bottom of the appliance, a queen sized heavy flannel sheet set, 1 flat sheet, 1 fitted sheet, and 4 pillowcases, take 3.25 hours to wash and dry, including pre-wash and extra rinse.\n\nI routinely load the washer to 70% full with clothing, and my typical pre-wash, wash, extra-rinse, and dry cycle time is about 3 hours.\n\nUnless you very carefully clean the door glass and seal after and before every use, about 1/8 cup, 30ml, of water will leak due to the lint, dust, and pet hair left on the door glass and/or seal.\n\nThe cleanable lint filter basket filters out coarse items, but I still get about 1/2-1 tablespoon, 8-15ml, of lint from the outflow pipe. I have the outflow pipe going into my utility sink and through a fine strainer to reduce the load on my septic tank.\n\nI would give this appliance 5 stars if the outflow pipe height constraint was documented or fixed, the internal lint filter filtered finer lint, and the door seal did not need such careful cleaning.\n\nI love the convenience of putting in a load of laundry, setting the delay so that when I get home I have clean and dry laundry to put away.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2703, "id": 181406, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 403, "len_tokens": 470, "text": "There are three parts to this review and I will try to keep this short and precise.\n\nQuality of the product itself:\n1) It is quite unbelievable how this product is worth $99. When I first opened the box, I thought I received a 5 lb toy. The plastic is thin and flimsy, not to mention that it is not even spinning, just like what the other reviewer had stated in his/her one star review. Having lived in Asia for many years, I can venture a guess how much this product REALLY is worth... sadly, I have to say, this thing is WAY overpriced. The margins are HIGH!!!\n2) As shown in the pictures, there were cracks and \"fractures\" all over the machine, possibly due to damage during delivery. There are also leakages everywhere, which I honestly believe that it could be a safety hazard if the water goes into the motor and electric wires, and apparently was evident after we unscrewed the thing.\n3) As an attempt to reconstruct this damaged product since it's already broken anyway, we took it apart and played with it. We ended up using the glue gun to repair the leakages and fix the motor belt so that it is aligned with the spinning wheel - right now we are giving it a test run as I am typing this. Will see if it works without flooding the bathroom.\n\nPackaging:\n1) There is no bubble wrap or any kind of protective layers of packaging other than a thin paper box which is what it comes in with. I am positive that this contributes to the several areas of damage to the machine, and that's truly a pity. I have initially posted several pictures demonstrating the cracks and damages, but was later contacted by the seller, asking me to remove them. Taking into the consideration that the majority of the buyers seemed to have a great experience with this machine, I honored her request and took the pictures off. Email me privately if you are interested in seeing those pictures.\n\nSeller:\n1) The seller is certainly worth complimenting. A representative, Christine emailed me back almost 5 minutes later when I first asked for a replacement. Prompt feedback, good customer service, and agreed to give me a full refund for the damaged product. At least the seller is willing to work with the customers and provide the help needed.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2704, "id": 552374, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 383, "len_tokens": 497, "text": "Not worth it.  I followed the suggestion to turn the filter to keep it from drying out.  Good idea and worked well with original filter.  HOWEVER, the replacement filters, after less than a week, lost the rigidity of the side wall and caused the wicking tower to collapse.  RESULT:  the fan could not circulate the air around and throught the filter and the humidifier's efficacy was cut to about 25% of what the originals could do based upon the frequency which I needed to fill the water reservior.  Three of the original filters, by turning them, rinsing them and occasionally zapping them with a vinegar soak, lasted all of last year's humidifying system and did not collapse. They got calcified over time which I would expect from the high limestone content in my water.  These 'after factory' filters are poor subsititues and frustrating.  I'm going to bite the bullet and get the origninals.  Dang, and I still have one of the fakes left--just enough to get me through till my original shipment!\nUPDATE: I really, really love my humidifier but original and knock off paper filters are for the birds.  I am trying to keep them alive and functioning.  Two things:  I have cut the poorly glued seam away from a damp wick and herring bone stitched it back together with a heavy duty thread or dental floss, my real go-to.  A quick round of slip stitch top and bottom will help keep the edges from fraying out.  I will make a wire support using a thin coat hanger to keep the wick from collapsing in on itself.  My idea is based on the plastic tripods that hold up the lids of hot delivery pizza.  I roll my damp wick and place it upright in a tumbler and fill it with vinegar, trying to keep the paper from becoming too encrusted with lime or brown deposits.  Then a swish in the sink in clear water. Is it a hassle? OF COURSE! but I can't see spending oodles to keep this thing going.  And BTW, after this second season, I will remove the fan unit to clean it and put a drop of oil on it.  That's what kills fans--accumulated dust and dander.  Gotta treat all investments like a car---periodic maintenance is a must.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2705, "id": 3165, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 361, "len_tokens": 427, "text": "I only use the machine once a week for my baby's laudry. The machine leaked from the bottom, and finally I realized it's because I had too much in it. Then it started leaking from where the machine connected to the pipe. Anyway, those are minor issues. After about 15 usage, it started stoping in the middle of the spin (not the spin cycle, it is the spin in the middle of the wash cycle so it can get the water out before the rinse). It did not just stop, but it would rock the machine like crazy and made very loud noise, as if something from inside is going to explode. Seems like the cylinder inside is lose and hitting the inner wall of the machine. I'm not exaggerating, it's scary. If I open the lid and close it, the machine would start, but stop again in 5 seconds. I tried this open and close technique for 5 times and still it won't continue the cycle. Anyway, I returned it to Haier which was a hassle. First of all, it costed $14.99 for s&h. Their staff was not well trained either. The first rep told me the main office will call me to charge my credit card. Then I called back after couple days since no one called me, and they said I should mail the check to the office. Then after I mailed the check, they said I should mailed 2 checks instead of 1 (I paid them $14.99 for s&H and the a deposit equal to the cost of my machine so they can send me one before I return mine). Anyway, finally I got my new machine after 3 weeks of communications, and the same problem happen with this machine (rock and stop in the middle), just that it happened after my 3rd load! Then I read others reviews and learned that the only way to deal with it is to turn the cycle knob clockwise a bit so the machine would skip that spin process. But this is bad, since that means the clothes is not being washed as clean as it should be.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2706, "id": 70808, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 342, "len_tokens": 456, "text": "Most of this is fact but I have included some opinions.\n\nI purchased a General Electric Profile refrigerator on 7/27/08 from Best Buy for $2281.23.  It had been working acceptably until about the middle of April of 2012.  We called GE repair and GE sent out a technician on 5/2/12, but he didn't have the part so he couldn't fix it the first time he came out.  On 5/4/12 he came back out and did a few things including replacing parts WR55X10956, WR55X10490, and something called a REFER MAINBOARD Pkg.  He said at first that he was sure it was the mainboard.  The charges for the parts and labor was $324.91.  Then when it wasn't acting the way he expected, he said he thought it might be the compressor but that we could wait to see if what he'd done fixed it.  He ordered a compressor just in case and scheduled an appointment for 5/14/12 and told me if I got the compressor he'd come get it..  The refrigerator allows the consumer to set the freezer and refrigerator temperatures.  We set them for the temperatures that GE recommends.  The next day the refrigerator was maintaining the freezer and refrigerator temperatures so we canceled the 5/14/12 appointment.  When canceling, we told the GE support person on the phone that he'd ordered a compressor to be delivered to my house.  The support person said he'd canceled that too.  Several days later we received the compressor that had been theoretically canceled.  We never heard from the GE repair man about coming to pick up the compressor.\n\nOn 6/30/12 we noticed that the refrigerator was not maintaining the set temperatures so we called GE again.\nThey gave me an appointment for 7/6/12.  Today he came out again but told me that they had not allowed him enough time to replace the compressor so he'd have to reschedule.  The first available time for installing a compressor is 7/16/12.\n\nI think GE is responsible for manufacturing a lousy product and having awful support of the garbage they manufacture.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2707, "id": 181065, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 348, "len_tokens": 420, "text": "Maybe my title should rather be \"Does what it says on the cardboard box / eBay ad\".  ;)\n\nI've worked from home for almost five years now and share a floor of a large house with a roommate.  For us, this thing is perfect.  It may not be as nice or have as large a capacity as the Haier 21N(?) portable washer that had broken down on us, but it does just what it is sold to do and we certainly have no complaints.  ^_^\n\nAs far as the capacity goes, i tend to do two or three medium-ish towels for one load or maybe a load of \"one pair of jean\" as the ad puts it, right along with a pair or two of thick, wooly socks.  Other than not overloading it, I've found the worst thing one could do is use too much detergent as it'll take many, many rinse cycles to get it all back out of the clothes.  (I just eyeball it myself, hence the mistake i guess.)\n\nOne thing of particular note:  When i first un-boxed the washer i had a real time of trying to figure out where to put it -- i was really perplexed, lol -- even going so far as to build a quick little stand for it where we had been using our previous portable clothes washer so it'd be near to a drain but eventually i realized the absolute best place was in one of the two tubs in our kitchen's stainless steel sink(s).  Fortunately the sink seems sturdy and well-built.  This thing rattles around a bit and when i run it on a real quiet afternoon it almost feels like it's shaking the house a little.  So i never really run it past 9 or 10pm, myself.\n\nOh, and i bought mine off of eBay, not Amazon.  Truth be told, i paid almost exactly the same -- so i should've done it through Amazon 'cause then i'd have been tempted to throw in some items from my Wish List along with the washer.  ;-)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2708, "id": 62775, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 259, "len_tokens": 428, "text": "I love this unit.\nEasy to use.\nSuper quiet.\nIt gets my clothes clean.\nI always fill the softener to the max line and my clothes smell awesome.\nSometimes my pants get really wrinkled.\nSome users have rated this with only one star simply for that reason. You just have to iron them.\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Smartek-Steam-Iron-ST1200G/dp/B000VNM30Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Smartek Steam Iron ST1200G</a>&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Polder-1232-82-Deluxe-Tabletop-Ironing-Board-Natural/dp/B0000TQGZO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Polder 1232-82 Deluxe Tabletop Ironing Board, Natural</a>\nClothes \"seem\" damp if I pull them out as soon as they are done but I just set them out for a good 30 seconds and they are in fact dry.\nRuns for about three and a half to four hours for a full load on normal settings.\n\nI live in a small guesthouse about the size of a one bedroom apartment. For whatever reason, I had a dishwasher but no washer and dryer. I replaced the dishwasher with this washer dryer.\n\nI ordered this from an external website and that Sunday they were running a 10% everything sale so I paid less. (great start) I figured it would take like a week or two to deliver but it was here on Tuesday at 9am! The delivery guys even helped bring it into the room where it was to live, the kitchen. (very European) After a quick trip to the hardware store and about $30 for two braided hoses and a splitter valve, the installation was simple.\n\nIf you're considering buying a washer/dryer combo, this is the one to get. It's the best one available in the U.S.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2709, "id": 205440, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 350, "len_tokens": 440, "text": "Awesome - looking for a replacement ice maker, the one that came with the Kenmore Elite fridge started giving out maybe last year, in cycles.  Some days it would work like champ, some days nothing.  Finally decided to look into a new ice maker.  Again, I searched the brand mfr. website and found the replacement part and decided to give Amazon a try.  I know in the past when i have asked, most retailers don't carry parts for Kenmore appliances - so you're kind of stuck buying from the manufacturer.\n\nWelp, i found this one, and it was an exact match to the part number, looks like LG produced the ice makers for my Kenmore Fridge, so I was able to get a decent savings almost $40 compared to brand new from the mfr. site.\n\nIce maker arrived today, and installation was very easy. First turn off your water supply, unplug the fridge, then you remove two screws at the top (they hold the unit in place), and one screw at the bottom (for grounding), and then you have a connector at the back of the unit, simply un-clip it.  Installation is reverse of removal.  I pushed in the connector, screwed in the ground wire (tip: i found that if you plug in the connector and put the top two screws in, you won't have enough wiggle room for the ground screw), once you get the ground screw set, move the unit into position, install the two screws on top and bam - done.  Altogether took like 10 minutes.\n\nI plugged the fridge back in, turned the water back, and the unit was powered on.  I let it be, but then after about 20 minutes I didn't hear anything.  Read some of the other reviews, and did the self-test (hold down the round ice size button for 3 seconds or thereabouts) the test will start.  It rotated the assembly, moved the lever arm, and then filled the tray.  So looks like everything it good to go!\n\n10 minutes, $40 dollars saved, no repairmen, no service calls - can't beat that.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2710, "id": 271872, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 370, "len_tokens": 428, "text": "I wanted something that covered the narrow gap between my stovetop and the countertop. This Gap Cap did the trick. Although I would have been happy to purchase the product at some local store in my area, I could not find it available. Wal-Mart sells them, but it was not in stock in Nashville.\n\nThe length is just right to go from the edge of my counter to the back panel of my range. Although made of aluminum, it has a magnetic strip that clings to the stove top.\n\nWhen I installed the strip, I had to lower the stove height by about 1/8 inch, so that the strip was at counter level. Also, I discovered that my countertop is not perfectly level from front to back. Because I wanted the gap cap parallel to the countertop from front to back, I adjusted the stove accordingly and now my rangetop is no longer level. This situation is not the fault of the Gap Cap, however.\n\nThe Gap Cap offers the protection against spills that I wanted, and it is easily removed for cleaning, such as when a liquid gets spilled on the counter. The Gap Cap does not offer a waterproof seal when it rests on the countertop. This lack of seal is why I knocked a star off my rating. I thought about putting a strip of thin rubber under that edge, but have not acted on this thought, since the strip is so easily removed and replaced.\n\nI looked for alternative products to achieve the desired result, and the Miles Kimball Gap Cap seems to be the best and almost the only solution.\n\nTwo photos show what the Gap Cap looks like on my stove/counter. Note that the edge view makes the Gap Cap appear to not fit well. I have almost no gap between my stove and the counter. If I had even a small space, I think the Gap Cap would actually touch the countertop properly, like in the product photos provided in the Amazon description. From the top view, you don't see the edge lifting up, and it has not been a problem for me. Spills are still controlled as I wanted.\n\nI highly recommend", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2711, "id": 301133, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 301, "len_tokens": 421, "text": "A great product with one HUGE CAVEAT - in a moment.  The good:  it holds a fair amount of clothing, does steam washing and cleans clothes well, and eliminates the pain in the gluteus having to move wet clothes from the washer to a dryer. It's a major space saver.  It's quiet.  It's solidly built.\n\nThe CAVEAT:  If you have a standpipe drain above the level of the unit, it WILL NOT DRY YOUR CLOTHES UNLESS YOU ALSO PURCHASE THE PEDESTAL DESIGNED FOR IT.  It won't.  Not small loads, not with repeated drying.  The pump or whatever drains it is underpowered and will not get rid of the wash water UNLESS IT'S ON THE PEDESTAL.  If you have a floor drain you're golden.  If you're in a condo with a wall standpipe, YOU MUST PURCHASE THE PEDESTAL.  Then it dries well.  Smaller quibbles might be that it takes a long time to go through a wash dry cycle, sometimes 4-5 hours.  Who cares?  Set it overnight, or in the morning before you leave.  You have to get a lint brush to remove lint from the front door gasket.  Annoying but not much.  So this would be a groundbreaking machine and reason why American Manufacturing is getting its posterior kicked. . .except for THE DESIGN FLAW IN THE DRAIN MECHANISM THAT REQUIRES THE PEDESTAL IF YOU HAVE A WALL STANDPIPE.  Make no mistake, this is not a deal breaker but it is a serious design flaw.  I'm really surprised it's being marketed without offering a retrofit.  You shouldn't have to pay several hundred dollars for a pedestal as a hidden cost.  Do I like the machine?  Very much.  Am I kind of angry that I had to BUY THE PEDESTAL.  Yes.  I would rate this as a buy, but know this caveat.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2712, "id": 87675, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2713, "id": 67021, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 315, "len_tokens": 458, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-RWGXEYLZBH3N2\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D1yz2yKb6oS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/7108JGdtsxS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">The Emerson Portable Ice Maker nearly met our needs. About a year ago the ice maker on our refrigerator died, and since we still enjoy the rest of its functionality we weren't keen on replacing it. The Emerson Portable Ice Machine seemed to have the ice making capability to fully compliment our otherwise lovable refrigerator. In truth, it works almost perfectly except for two (unforgivable) flaws.... but first here is a run down of the ice maker.\n\nThe Positives\n- It make ice quickly - less than 10 minutes - and will continue to make ice until you turn it off, it runs out of water, or becomes full.\n- Some people have complained about it being loud - but that was never an issue for us\n- You can select the size of the ice cubes.... small freeze quicker, but the larger ice cubes are.... well... larger\n\nThe Not-So-Positives\n- The first unit we purchased was dead on arrival\n- The Portable Ice Maker is large.... about the size of a microwave\n- The unit does NOT have a separate refrigeration unit, so the ice cubes immediately begin to melt. This would not be too big of a deal if you are going to use the ice immediately, but if you stick them in your freezer all of the ice cubes will freeze into a solid wad.\n\nFinal Verdict\n The Emerson Portable ice Maker is perfect for someone who is having a party and needs a constant supply of ice. However, like of us if you are looking for something to make ice so that you can store for future use.... it leaves a bit to be desired. We are also concerned with the products overall quality since the first unit we purchased would not work at all.\n\n2 1/2 Stars", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2714, "id": 481153, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 340, "len_tokens": 422, "text": "This plastic washboard/bucket combo is very nice and the price is right.\n\nBut. . . DO NOT use the photo as an example of how to wash clothes by hand. Ridiculous! As well as unhealthy for one's fingers. The only healthy and comfortable (yes, there is such a method) of washing clothes by hand is to scrub the fabric with the pads of one's fingertips ONLY. Do not scrub with the complete underside of your fingers; not enough padding around the knuckles to prevent blisters. And use only the index, middle and ring finger pads with which to scrub the clothes.\n\nAlso, scrub only a few thicknesses of medium-weight fabric at one time. That way, the clothes come cleaner faster and threads last longer. There are many ways to washing clothes by hand that are now lost to recent generations. I'm happy to respond to specific questions if you want to ask any of me. Too many tips, tricks, techniques, whatnot, to list here.\n\nBut I will say this. . . I was raised by my great-grandparents, who were born in the 1870s, and they taught me the ways of their parents, who were born in the 1830s. I am also a retired professional historian; however, one doesn't have to be to wash clothes well by hand. Long story short, I've been around at least 150 years and know a thing or two on this subject. *** And when my husband was transferred to Greece while in the US Navy, I had to wash the family clothes under an olive tree with a #10 galvanized steel washtub which I set atop two dinette chairs facing each other, and using cold water from a garden hose I scrubbed cloth diapers for three toddlers. Ain't lying, folks, it's the honest truth. No base housing, we lived among the Greek Nationals and went with them to market on Wednesdays and learned to speak Greek. We lived in Nea Makri, on the eastern coast of Greece. There's a US Naval Station there. Google it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2715, "id": 426685, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 373, "len_tokens": 438, "text": "Seems to replace Samsung filter pretty seamlessly so far.  I had an issue installing it where I managed to flood my snack drawer but that is because I lazily didn't follow instructions (and common sense) by not shutting off the water main before inserting filter.  This has worked before when I've had to replace a filter but isn't advised (certainly not by me).  Even with the water main being on, the filter snapped in without causing any issue but I was concerned it wasn't properly inserted (for reasons I will detail in a second) and kept removing it and reinserting it which somehow triggered the gush of water into my fridge.  It isn't the filter's fault but just worth noting.  This is why I was doubtful about the filter being correctly snapped in: the knob, I guess you would call it, that you twist to align and lock the filter did not end up perfectly aligning in lock position.  It was off-kilter a bit even though the filter was locked in.  This made me concerned that the filter wasn't properly locked even though I could not turn the knob to align no matter how hard I tried.  I think it was just manufactured slightly off.  I did not have this problem with my last Samsung replacement filter though I have experienced this issue with an off-brand model before.  Otherwise, the filter seems to function perfectly well and the water tastes fine.  I would know if it weren't working because the local water here tastes terrible.  The company was courteous in its requests for reviews, which is always important for me as a customer.  I really detest being harassed for feedback and this company did it the right way.  In fact, it has taken me especially long to review this filter because life got in the way and I also wanted to wait a while to see if there were any issues that arose with the product after some time had passed.  It always stuck in my head the this company had been polite in their request for a review and I am happy to finally give one.  I'd recommend their filters and I also recommend you try not to flood your refrigerator.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2716, "id": 479623, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 357, "len_tokens": 429, "text": "This part and 15 minutes of work repaired my 2010 Kenmore Elite Ultra Wash dishwasher (model 665.1312*).  For those of you who are not confident about repairing a dishwasher, read along because I wasn't either but this part was easy to replace.\n\nAfter two years of stellar cleaning, our dishes suddenly starting being consistently dirty after the wash ended.  Since the problem occurred spontaneously and we had previously had great performance, we knew something was wrong.  Some online research suggested that the problem could be that we didn't have enough water running through the cycle, and sure enough if we opened the dishwasher 10 minutes into the cycle, there was only a little water at the bottom of the washer.  Normally the water should be about 1/4\" below the heating element.  Online forums said that problem is usually fixed by replacing the inlet valve.\n\nI'm not terribly mechanical but I figured I could at least take a look at my washer.  I unplugged my washer and turned off the water to it.  I removed the screws on the access plate at the bottom of the washer, and I opened the door and removed the two screws at the top of the washer that attached it to my counter.  Then I pulled out the washer and was able to see the inlet valve on the front left side of my washer.  I unscrewed the hose coupling, unscrewed the hex screw that held the inlet valve to the washer frame, and slide off the washer.  Finally I gently pulled off the electrical plug to the valve and took off the rubber hose.\n\nThe part number on the inlet valve was this Whirlpool inlet valve model, so I order this from Amazon and replaced mine.  I hooked everything back up and my water level is now correct and my dishes are clean again.\n\nI ordered second day air and placed my order at 10 am CST, and my package arrived the next day!  My local plumbing supply didn't have it in stock and were more expensive anyway (even including Amazon's 2nd day shipping and sales tax.)  Gotta love Amazon.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2717, "id": 363222, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 389, "len_tokens": 432, "text": "I have been using induction for at least 20 years. I had it when I lived in Japan and when I moved back to the states I was able to replace my oven range with an induction oven range. Using a typical electric glass cooktop was torture after being spoiled by induction. We recently moved and the house we bought had a 36 inch Jenn Air. It was original to the house so about 12 years old. Trying to adjust with the control knobs on this was  a major frustration and I had enough when a week ago I prepared a big Sunday meal with 4 burners going at the same time. I got on-line and found a good deal on this and purchased it straight away. It arrived last night and my husband who is a big breakfast person and everyday complained how he missed the induction we had installed it straight away. He is pretty handy but he did have some trouble installing since there is no plug in as it is wired. The wires from the old one did not match up perfectly. The controls are amazing(a huge plus from any induction I have used) and it is so quiet you will not even know it is on unless you turn it up to high. It also has a timer which is great if you are busy like us. The only reason I did not give it 5 star is because the hole for the old 36 inch is a bit bigger and I am having trouble finding a GE Trim Kit for the 36\" size. We did find the 30/32 inch kit on-line. It is available in black and white for about $100. It would be nice if they had it available in stainless steel as well.  Also it has a vent hood you have to attach under it and it has made the drawer where I keep all my flatware not useable. This is major since I really don't have anywhere else to put my flatware which I have a lot of. Since this was just installed and we have only used it a day I will update has need be. I am hoping after I post this that GE reaches out to me with some solutions for the issues we are having.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2718, "id": 209758, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 420, "len_tokens": 491, "text": "I am going to enjoy writing this review because I have water and ice cubes again. I am unsure if I would buy this brand LG refrigerator again because either the price for repair was outrageous or the parts were a pain. My ice maker broke and I decided instead of paying a few hundred dollars for repair I would \"DIY.\"  As I am not particularly handy around the house this was an enormous job for me. I looked up the repair on Youtube and decided to do it myself. It took me several hours but I installed it and it was producing my beloved ice cubes. The following week we noticed water on the floor by the fridge and the ice making was very slow, investigating this I found the water valve was leaking. This was poor on my part because I had it out previously when repairing the icemaker and debated on changing it then. Since I had it all apart this was the correct thing to do. I didn't.\n\nNow for your information and to get to the point I have an LG model LFX 25960ST. I ORDER THE ORIGINAL PART Water Inlet Valve ONLINE AT AMAZON. Clearly I was confused because the water valve I removed looked completely different than the replacement I ordered. Every thing I read directed me to the upgraded water valve. I am here to say DON'T BE Afraid, THE NEWER REPLACEMENT FITS IN THE AREA AND WORKS CORRECTLY. One thing, there is and extra wire on this valve, just leave it hanging, it do not have a plug on this refrigerator. It really had me going. In the end I hooked it all up and in twelve hours the fridge was and is producing ice cubes. As a previous review said, the part did not match the one it was to replace, contacted the seller and was advised that LG had service notes on removing the wiring harness and connecting directly to the refrigerator. Followed the recommendation and installed the part, works fine. Would have been helpful if service instructions had been included. AND I AGREE.\n\nPoints to remember:\ngo to Youtube and look at the video repairs\nUnplug first\nturn off water\nhave plenty of room\nbag all screws\ntake pictures of everything\nyou will find this very important days later\nAND REMEMBER THERE IS A SPECIFIC WAY TO REMOVE THE HOSE FROM THE WATER VALVE. JUST DON'T PULL IT OUT.\n\nI did, darn it, I cause my own problem.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2719, "id": 310721, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 366, "len_tokens": 482, "text": "LG washer opened during wash and did thousands of dollars in water damage. LG refused to take responsibility for their product.\nAs of this time LG has still not compensated us for the water damage to our home caused when their washer door opened and flooded us.\nBeware of LG!  Do your research first and save yourself some trouble.\nWe purchased an LG Front loading washing machine that opened up during a wash cycle and LG is refusing to cover any of the damages to our home.  This is particularly egregious because LG is aware that if their front loading machines over fill with water that the door will pop open.  LG is knowingly selling front loading washers that will open if, for whatever reason, they get too full of water.  We thought the washer was great before it just opened up.\n\nMODEL NAME: WM2650HRA  SERIAL NUMBER: 306PNAJ6G432\nPURCHASE DATE: 4/20/2014 Retail price $1,099.00\n\nIt worked perfectly until 5/10/2014 when during a sanitation wash cycle the front door opened and poured water out causing over $3000 (supported by estimates from licensed contractors) of damage to our living space by ruining wall to wall carpet and some of the sub floor.\n\nOn 5/10/14 LG service representative admitted that too much water would open the door.\nOn 5/19/14 Mr. Blake also stated that too much water would cause the door to open.\nThis proves that LG was well aware of this feature of their front loading washing machines.\n\n5-20-2014 LG Call CNM140520553488 Representative Katie refused to provide smart diagnosis report from 5/10 incident and refused to provide her last name but transferred me to a supervisor.\n\n5-20-2014 Adrian ID7008 seemed surprised that two people at LG had admitted the defect regarding the door opening.\n\nOn 6/16/2014 our claim was denied by LG\n\nWe have filed a formal complaint against LG with the North Carolina Dept of Justice Consumer protection dept. which has been assigned file number 1408167  LG replied with a frivolous reply claming there was nothing wrong with the washing machine.\n\nComplaint case # 31032574 has now been filed with the Better Business Bureau. LG replied with a frivolous reply referring us back to\nMr. Blake.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2720, "id": 70793, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 336, "len_tokens": 431, "text": "I purchased my GE refridgerator approximately 8 months ago.  It was, on my part, a bad decision to make a 2K investment without doing research.  It was more of an impulse purchase as my old fridge was slowing fading.  I was impressed with the available storage and had never had an icemaker or water dispenser.  But, I figured it was time to move up.  About 2 months ago, I started experiencing issues with the water dispenser.  It was no longer filling my cup in a timely fashion but it became an hour event.  Or there was no water. I still have the manufacturers warranty (and even bought an additional 2 years on top of that) so I called the 888 number.  I got registered and waited for the repairman/service department to call for an appointment.  After 4 days, I called again.  Another two days later, I called again.  They set me up with a different service company.  Today, after taking vacation time from work, the serviceman arrives only to tell me that no one really has much experience with a newer model until on the market for a year or two.  He went on to say that the problem MAY be because the ice dispenser/maker/storage is actually in the refridgerator section instead of the freezer section.  Therefore, the manufacturer recommends that the temp be at 38.  My water could actually be \"frozen\" and that is why I get no water or a dribble.  So, the advice I received was to turn my fridge up to 42 and watch it for a few days as IF it is frozen, it may take several days to thaw as he wasn't sure how many coils were in the back.  It has been 5 hours since he was here and still I have a dribble of water.  After \"googling\" recommended temperatures for refriderators, I found a site that stated not higher than 41...funny how the repairman set it a 42.  Anyone have any suggestions or ideas, short of selling it?", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2721, "id": 148457, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 440, "len_tokens": 495, "text": "I bought this a few months back and I wanted to wait to write my review of the item so I could give a good review and not just a \"Yay it got here\" kind of review. I've used it many times over the past few months.\n\nThe piece that replaces the tap on your faucet is a little hard to attach, you need a strong wrench and strong hands to do it, but otherwise, once attached it was fine. I've actually left it attached and when not hooked up to the dishwasher the faucet still works just fine.\n\nI've used the dishwasher several times now and I love it. It's been a major lifesaver. Instructions are simple to follow and it's very easy to use. I have it fixed on a counter top and just plug it in and hook it up when I need to use it. It does have both a detergent area and a rinse aid area, so I was able to purchase some Jet Dry for the dishes which makes me happy since I know the dishes will not only come out clean, but sparkling without spots.\n\nI live alone so it takes some time to create enough dishes to use the washer, but I never worry when I use it. I know now the dishes will come out clean and wonderful. The program run takes a bit of time, but it does have a loud 8 beep noise to indicate the run is over so I don't worry about it.\n\nI was a bit nervous purchasing this one when it had no reviews, but it was one of the cheaper countertop dishwashers out there so I wanted to take the chance. I'm very happy that I did.\n\nIt was very well packaged without a single ding or scratch upon arrival. It was a very large box, but not terribly heavy, I'm a single woman who doesn't go to the gym and while it was hard to do I was able to get the box into my car and out of my car, up the stairs to my apartment, out of the box, and onto the counter without any issues. Again, this was hard for me to do, but if you have help, or a stronger person around it should be almost no issue at all. It's more bulky than it is heavy. I live in a small apartment with very little counter space, but this takes up the space I used to have the dish drying rack on while fitting underneath my cabinets and next to my sink. It was perfect for my needs.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2722, "id": 144715, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 418, "len_tokens": 491, "text": "I have been blessed with this Kitchenaid double oven. While I did not purchase thru my Amazon account, I did purchase it over a year ago in a nearby city.  We live in the country so my husband picked it up and we had someone install it for us. The lock on the burners for kid control is used all the time, great! The top oven is used more than the bottom, but both work wonderfully. I preset both ovens for different temperatures and times to cook while I am at church so we come home to a hot meal- both work GREAT! Love those features! All my burners work, even though the middle burner is low flame, I turn it on while getting supplies out and can use my griddle for pancakes, grilled sandwiches, bacon... and since we have a large family, I use another burner with a cast iron skillet or griddle to expedite the cooking process - great idea! Once heated the griddle cooks just as fast as the pan next to it! My cast iron pans are too large to use together on this stove top, so I purchased a set of Cuisinart Multi clad pro cookware from Amazon and they all fit just fine and cook well on it, so I guess before the new cookware last fall, I wished I had gotten a 36\" stove top, now though, it works well. I still use my cast iron daily, but only a couple at a time on the stove top.  While there is an electric start on the gas burners, I really appreciate the way you can turn the knob back - almost off- to get even a lower flame to simmer (my daughters gas stove shuts off automatically if you try to turn back past the \"clicking').  I make ghee and it requires a low heat which the oval middle burner provides with my largest Cuisinart pot. The timers are both excellent, I cannot say enough about the fun I have still experimenting with my stove, even though I have had it and used it continuously for over a year!\n\nDEC- 2012 UPDATE:\nStill loving my KitchenAid double gas oven.  Find myself using the warmer quite a bit with larger meals during the holidays. Have had no rusting, or other user problems I have read about from other reviews. Everyone who comes over loves the controls and the versatility of the cooking it provides. Still looks great and works even better.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2723, "id": 469325, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 353, "len_tokens": 424, "text": "We've had it for 2 weeks.\n\nDoor is soooo hard to open that the handle is loose now. I can see that in weeks it will break apart. We called the store back and they are to come check it. I tried vaseline as recommended by a tech (not from store) on the rubber seal, and did nothing to ease the opening.\n\nAlso it is verrry noisy. I can hear it from another room.  It also start on/off very often. I'd be surprised if the compressor lasts 5 years at the rate is is going on/off and it is not even set as super cold. And it meets all Frigidaire's recommendations for installation.\n\nWould I recommend? No\nWould I have bought it knowing this? No\n\nBut we're stuck with it.\n\nEdited to update:\nFinally found a way to make the door easier to open after trying multiple things. A regular straw that cut the size (height) needed and just put it inside top door (on seal), taped with a tiny piece scotchtape. The hole in the straw prevents the air to be sucked in causing the door to be almost unable to opened. The straw is squeezed when closed but the \"vaccum\" effect no longer exists and door opens normally.\n\nAlso called a technician who told us how to open the door knob plastic cover to tighten the screws. Now all is working perfectly.\n\nAnother thing that is annoying is the fruit/veggie basket. Only one huge compartment. No way to separate fruits and veggies. And it has large spaces between rods so everything tends to fall out the fridge. Not practical. All baskets (fruit and top ones) are all grids. So we used plastic cardboard (found in any home improvement store) cut to the size of the drawer to act as a bottom. Otherwise it was impossible to have anything stable. I think engineers must not cook/use fridge a lot to design such poor drawers!\n\nBut it still remains a noisy fridge. I would not buy it again but it does the job it is supposed to do: keep food at decent temperature.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2724, "id": 453302, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 378, "len_tokens": 479, "text": "I have the dishwasher running right now and just wanted to take a moment to write a little ode to my trusty Danby dishwasher, who has changed my life in so many ways through the years.  You see, when I first moved into my apartment and discovered that there was no dishwasher I almost decided not to sign the lease.  My helpful landlady suggested I search for a countertop option (which I never even knew existed), I did my research, and this is what I bought.  Thank goodness because I love my place and I despise doing dishes by hand.  If it hadn't been for this trusty, mighty little dishwasher I never would've scored this amazing rent-controlled little jewel.\n\nNow, I bought this 5 years ago, so it was about half the price -- and I still think it's crazy cheap given how phenomenal it is.  At the time, reviewers cautioned that it would likely only last about 2 years, maximum.  Considering the price and my aversion to washing dishes by hand, there was no way I could resist.  I almost feel like I'm jinxing myself.. but it still works as well as it did on day 1 and I've never had to repair anything.  I cook every night and run my little dishwasher almost everyday.\n\nEasily the best thing I've ever bought.  Ever.\n\nUPDATE\nSo of course, 1 year later my beloved dishwasher began to leak.  My first instinct was to freak out, naturally.  After I gathered myself together I poked around on the unit and realized that the decorative window was coming loose.  After doing some research I went to my local hardware store and purchased silicon glue for about $3.  And then I glued every single component of that window, placed a heavy planter on the open door, and let it dry for a day and a half.  And I am delighted to report... HOORAY!  It's up and running at 100%.  Phew.\n\n(Someone gently suggested that I might actually want to, you know, wash my dishes by hand.  To which I replied, puhleaze.)\n\nBut, even if my very favorite purchase of all time had in fact died on me (which it DID NOT, 6 years later) I wouldn't have hesitated to buy a new one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2725, "id": 87963, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2726, "id": 361770, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 377, "len_tokens": 425, "text": "I bought this washer in January 2017. In febuary I began to have problems with the spin cycle. It would not spin then it gave me the error code Ld which is not in the manual. I called the Haier customer service and was told how to reset the washer that the safety switch had been tripped because the washer was off balance. So I reset the washer and the problems increased. Almost every load tripped the safety switch regardless of how much laundry I had in the load. I would only be able to reset the washer after I emptied it completely. Then it began to fill too full and flooded my kitchen. I called Haier again and they made a work order and for repair. It sat at the repair shop for more than 3 weeks because the part that was ordered was defective and another one had to be ordered and installed. I finally got my washer back on 6/7/17 and was able to wash one load without incident. After that It began to act the way it did before they picked it up for repair but with more problems. It also would not fill up all the way and when it got full displayed error code LF and began to drain. If I lifted the lid and put it back down it filled back up and then over filled and would not complete the wash stopping at the spin cycle with error code Ld. I complained to Haier again and ended up getting a refund and the washer is disposed of like the piece of junk it is.\nAdditionally, Haier customer service told me I could have it repaired as many times as I needed on the warranty, but i told them if it is always broken and in the shop, what is the point in having it? I will not put up with constant repairs for an entire year only to have to pay out of pocket when the warranty runs out. I hurt and can't haul laundry to the laundromat all the time. I need a washer that works. I also am a single mom. This is unacceptable. I will be buying a different washer and will never use haier again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2727, "id": 519226, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 375, "len_tokens": 473, "text": "UPDATE: I bought a pair of these about a week ago and installed one of them. Water now shoots with as much pressure as when we first got the fridge and it tastes just as good. The peace of mind of having plenty of safe drinking water without the severe waste of water bottles as my family had in the past is indescribable. Remember to change these every six months or when the indicator light turns on. Not much else to say except to remember to reset the water filter indicator. To do this, after removing the old water filter and installing the new one, reset the indicator light by pressing and holding the \"Alarm / Hold for 3 sec For Filter Reset\" button for 3 seconds. For models with interior controls press and hold the Fridge and Power Cool buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds.\n\nOld review:\nLike many of you I have been looking at all the cheap aftermarket filters on Amazon for my Samsung fridge. All of them are NSF42 certified, but none have been NSF53 certified. This is the ONLY non OEM filter I've been able to find that is both NSF-42 and NSF-53 certified (the latter of which is the most important aspect of any filter). Furthermore, these cost half of what the Samsung OEM go for. NSF42 is unimportant with regards to filtration so don't be deceived by filters which only have this one certified.\n\nAll this said, please do not buy these here. You can get these at the Home Depot for 50 bucks for the value pack (2-pac). At 90 dollars you might as well just buy the OEM Samsung filters.\n\nFor those who are unaware, here is an excerpt on the nsf.org website about NSF53 certification.\n\n\"NSF/ANSI 53: Drinking Water Treatment Units - Health Effects\n\nNSF/ANSI 53 establishes the minimum requirements for the certification of POU/POE filtration systems designed to reduce specific health-related contaminants, such as Cryptosporidium, Giardia, lead, volatile organic chemicals (VOCs) and MTBE (methyl tertiary-butyl ether), that may be present in public or private drinking water.\n\nThe scope of NSF/ANSI 53 includes material safety, structural integrity and health-related contaminant reduction performance claims. The most common technology addressed by this standard is carbon filtration.\"", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2728, "id": 457901, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 338, "len_tokens": 420, "text": "My son bought me this Washer and Dryer for Mother's Day and I love them.  They do everything they claim in their advertisement.\n\nThe steam function on the dryer is awesome for freshening up clothes as well as non-washable items like drapes.  The \"Whitest Whites\" cycle really does get the white wash clean with or without the use of any bleach.  Also, this Washer uses very little detergent and only \"He\" Type detergent which is available at most grocery stores.  It is amazing how clean the laundry gets with such a small amount of detergent.  The dryer has a wrinkle shield function that keeps the laundry from getting wrinkled in case you forget or can't get to it as soon as it's dry.  The washer has a sanitizing function that deep cleans and sanitizes the wash and there's a \"Drain/Spin\" function in case you want to spin the laundry drier (but it does an excellent job even on heavy loads).  They handled a king-size comforter load and a load of my son's dirty, heavy work pants and hooded-sweatshirts with no trouble at all.\n\nThey can be stacked for space saving or they can sit side-by-side.  If you do want to stack them, you'll need to buy a stacking kit but they are readily available and inexpensive and a door reversal kit for the dryer (the washer door is not reversible) is also available for purchase which is suggested when they are being stacked.  There is also a Work Surface that can be purchased separately that makes the tops' a convenient place to fold and sort laundry.  And there is a pedestal available too, which raises the height of the appliance.\n\nThis Washer and Dryer costs more than my previous washers and dryers but in the long run the amount that is being saved in electric, water, and detergent costs far outweighs the initial cost.  I just can't say enough about how wonderful they work and the new brown \"Tuscan Chestnut\" color is a beautiful metallic brown color.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2729, "id": 542501, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 331, "len_tokens": 408, "text": "I purchased the freezer SideKick March 2013.  It looks very nice and has plenty of room for a family of four, plus a little extra when you have impromptu gatherings and you need to make appetizers and munchies.  Much like the other consumer, my freezer unit froze up (or should I say heated up) twice and we had to place repair calls to get it back to proper cooling.  This occurred twice in a matter of 4 year, which is more than I have had to call on for my other non-Whirlpool appliances (only placed 2 calls for my 15-year old refrigerator).  My family and I recently took a 5-day vacation, and while we were gone we had two house sitters.  On the day we returned we were notified by the house sitter that the house was beginning to have a faint smell. By the time we arrived that evening, the freezer unit was confirmed malfunctioning and was actually circulating warm air (like an Easybake oven).  We lost everything. It smelled so bad that I actually vomited twice attempting to clean it out.  We have tried everything to remove the stench, but no luck.  I spent over $1,800 for a piece junk.  I contacted Whirlpool tonight and they have not heard or reported of any complaints.  The service rep, Lauren T said, \"This model is not noted with any known issues in our system and it is not under any recalls,\" but then proceeded to inform me that she noted a complaint from me.  I was instructed to contact an 800 number to schedule a service and that I may qualify for the \"Repair + 1\".  Truthfully, I do not want this thing because I can't get the smell out of it, and I don't want to invest any more than I already have knowing that it is only a matter of time before it breaks down again.  Buyer beware! Consider another freezer before buying this one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2730, "id": 528039, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 371, "len_tokens": 441, "text": "I would like to share my experience with the new 2014 combo steam/convection oven DGC6800 from Miele. It is a very expensive appliance ($6,000), so I would expect exceptional performance and outstanding customer service. But I understand that not all units can be perfect, and things can sometimes break. I received it in October. It had been working great until November. I made a delicious pork roast, a lot of pizza, German Christmas cake and fantastic bread. Since it stopped working, my experience with Miele has been a huge disappointment: something inside the unit broke in November (either the temperature sensors or the main board) and I kept getting error codes on the display. The service technician that came at the beginning of December was not able to determine the exact cause of these error messages, so he ordered parts from Germany, which arrived on December 29. On December 30, two technicians were supposed to come out and repair the oven, but in the morning I received a call that one technician is sick and cannot come. Now, the repair is tentatively rescheduled for January 6. I already had to cancel a Christmas dinner, because I was not able to use my oven to cook a meal. Now, I have to cancel a scheduled New Year's party for tomorrow, because I still don't have an oven that I can cook a meal in.\n\nI am very disappointed in the Miele service, considering that I paid $6,000 (!) for this appliance. I would expect better and faster service for this money. Is there only one Miele technician in the entire city of Calgary? What about the second guy that was supposed to come out as well? Apple, for example, gives customers loaner units if the repair of an expensive item takes longer than a few days. Nespresso provides people with loaner coffee makers when a machine needs to be repaired. I understand that it is not easy to get a loaner steam oven, but just a plain apology for the inconvenience and an additional 8 months of free warranty is just not enough for the price that I paid.\n\nUnfortunately, I am now forced to leave negative reviews on the internet.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2731, "id": 353943, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 380, "len_tokens": 482, "text": "I was wondering how long the upper rack adjusters would last on my Whirlpool-made, Kenmore dishwasher after comparing them to my mom's older Kenmore DW, which was also made by Whirlpool.  I got my answer last month:  3 years for me.  A littler research online revealed that the breakage of this part is a huge problem.  The Achilles heel of the original part's design is the dainty wheel axles that are part of the plastic mold of the adjuster's bracket.  Over time in the harsh DW environment, these pieces, which have to bear the weight of the dishes in the upper rack, become brittle and eventually break.  It's not a matter of \"If it will break\" but rather \"When\".  Shame on Whirlpool for putting such garbage on consumers.\n\nLuckily, I happened upon a video that showed this \"upgraded\" adjuster kit, which really is very similar if not the same as the adjuster used prior to the one that came in the machine.  There were a few helpful videos that show how to remove the old adjusters and put on the new ones.  It's a rather easy, low-cost fix and anyone can do it without incurring the costs of a repairman.  There is absolutely no reason to buy the original adjusters, which are virtually the same price as this one.  They really need to stop selling the old one so that unwary consumers don't waste money on them.\n\nThe dishwasher is back to working as normal.  Actually, it's better than when new, as the upper rack used to squeal like an oiled pig at a county fair from when it was practically new.  The wheels of the new adjuster roll much more smoothly in the tracks without all the racket.  The parts of this adjuster are notably heavier than the original ones, as the brackets are constructed of heavy gauge metal.  My mom's machine is 11 years old and never had any issues, so I believe this new adjuster will last the life of the machine without further complaint.  If I were to have anything negative to say, it's that this adjuster intrudes slightly more into the rack.  So, I have to place smaller glasses next to it than before.  Obviously, this is a minor nit but something I immediately noticed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2732, "id": 94861, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 396, "len_tokens": 472, "text": "I have been in the upscale appliance retail and wholesale business over 20 years. I was there when Fisher & Paykel first came to the US with their top load washer; such a well designed machine that is is still available (albeit with some cosmetic upgrades) at an affordable price. I owned one of their washers for eight years and only ever had one problem with it which was self imposed - I put 2 bath mats in the washer and the machine freaked out and shut down in the spin cycle. I called F&P and we were able to fix the machine by phone.\n\nWhen the dishdrawer hit our shores some 12-14 years ago, it was a mess. There was almost a 50% failure rate on the machines. You would think that this would have sunk the concept and the brand in the US, but I believe the consumer did respond positively and Fisher & Paykel soldiered on, improving the product, reducing failures and gaining market share. As each new version hit the market, the product steadily improved and so did our sales. I believe the last generation (version 7) was glitch free.\n\nRecently, I did a major remodel of my house and decided to install a double dishdrawer. I must say that is does a great job washing the dishes (I don't rinse), it's quiet ( I have a large open floor plan w/vaulted ceilings and tile floor and I can't hear it running).\n\nSo, like many companies whose product is viable, F&P finally got it right. The blogosphere is ubiquitous and everlasting, so this gets a bad rap. But kudos to F&P for sticking with it and getting it right. I believe many of the negatives out there are installation related and F&P takes the blame. So be it. But, this is a marvel of a product whose time has come; I am very happy and confidently promote this dishwasher to my customers.\n\nThe newest version is the best yet; they increased the overall height of the top drawer so it fits a 13\" tall item and improved the racks. It just keeps getting better and better.......\n\nI felt it was necessary to comment from a different angle; I both sell and own this product. I hear all of our customer's and my wife's feedback; I say this product has hit it's stride.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2733, "id": 50853, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 394, "len_tokens": 465, "text": "Bosch use to be good, now cheaply made. Do not expect your dishes to be dry since they do not have a dryer, this is why they get energy ratings. There is always water on the dishes, even if you use delay and let it sit overnight. So much water that it will track on your floors as you are putting the dishes away. Don't be fooled by their DBA claims, it is not accurate. If you measure the sound during the pulsating noises it is no longer quiet. Loud enough that if you are standing in the kitchen you and your guests will hear it. There are times during the cycle that you wonder if it is on, it can be that quite- that is the decibel they state. Too bad they don't state the actual sound when it is really working.\nThe doors are no longer the heavy stainless they use to be. They now paint parts of the plastic fascia. They no longer have a latch so it is a direct pull, another way to cut down on production costs. The new silverware baskets have ledges in them for the purpose of making sure each piece gets clean. However you will not be able to put in as many place settings of silverware in the basket as stated due to the various levels. The fold over plastic that comes with the basket is so thin, it will easily cut with scissors. The 800 has a cutlery 3rd rack. You will not be able to fit the described piece place settings and any large cookware in the same load.\n\nThe one thing that is correct about their claims is they do clean with food left on. It is also next to impossible to clog a Bosch. THAT'S IT!\n\nUnless you buy a 800 series all the above is true. The 800 series is the only one that is still made in Germany. The 800 also has a cutlery 3rd rack.\n\nBottom line- this is an extremely overrated dishwasher! I am a caterer- I get to work on all brands of dishwashers in high end homes. unless it is the expensive 800 series, I will no longer recommend a Bosch to my customers.\n\nWhen a product is only warranted by the manufacture for one year- that should tell you something about the quality!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2734, "id": 43979, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 386, "len_tokens": 441, "text": "The Ice maker arrived very well packed (at least I thought it did anyways).  I wasn't too keen on whatever they put on the steel (some blue plastic cover thing that you have to pull off though it was a minor issue), but it was fairly easy to take it off though there were certain areas that I could not pull it off the Ice maker so not really a big deal just annoying.  I ran the machine for a couple of times and threw out the ice just so that it gets broken in and if any tastes or smells linger they would go away though I noticed neither.  The Ice maker is very quiet all you hear is the ice dropping; the fan occasionally, and the pump as it draws water into the machine from the water well (or whatever you want to call it).  I've only had the ice maker for less than a month or so and so far have not noticed any problems, so only time will tell how it holds up (and any updates that I add later on down the road).  It looks like a well put together product even for one coming out of China which nowadays seems like just about everything else although I did wipe down the inside of the product as there was some kind of stain (dirt or something else I don't know that got past the quality control point) in it that wiped up fairly easy enough.  The ice doesn't have any weird taste that I can detect and everything seems to be in working order so far.  I would recommend this product to others.\n\nUpdate December 27th 2012\n\nThe ice maker now automatically switches to the smallest type of ice tube/cube (whatever you want to call it) size.  The clean function doesn't even work.  When it worked; it worked great, now that it has started to act up it's a pain in the proverbial rear end.  When I purchase another ice maker machine I won't be buying it from this company.  I've only had this one for under a year and a half though I was hoping to have it in good working order for at least 5 years.  If you are thinking of purchasing this product look elsewhere.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2735, "id": 121109, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 366, "len_tokens": 410, "text": "To be completely honest... I hate our washer. Yes, it is pretty to look at, but it does a terrible job washing clothes and sheets. First, I have to wash ALL my clothes on the bulky cycle just to actually get them wet... and trust me, I do not over fill my washer. I have washed every different size load possible; large, medium and small, and they still would come out with PHYSICAL dirt on them. Using the bulky cycle for everything is the only way I can get everything clean, and I hate it because that cycle is harder on your clothes. On top of the clothes, washing sheets in this thing is absolutely horrible. One sheet always gets caught and gets stretched across the entire top of the load, so it looks like the top of a drum when you look down on it. The same thing happens when I wash rugs or anything, and it makes me wonder how clean things actually get when it is just floating on top of the load...\n\nI am usually not one to complain, because I take responsibility for my purchases, it was my choice, but I just wanted to cry when I noticed what a bad job the washer does. It was the first washer and dryer set I have ever purchased for our first home, and it sucks, and now I am stuck with it - wasting water and energy with every load.\n\nI should have stuck with the a front load washer. They are way more gentle on your clothes, and you have so much more room than you do with a top load washer.\n\nI hate to say it, but I will not be buying another Maytag product in my life. I was completely disappointed and upset that I let someone at the store talk me into this washer. I have tried every different water, cycle, and speed combination and I just can't get this thing to get my clothes really clean.\nI am replacing my washer as soon as I have money to do so, and it will not be with another Maytag product.\n\n-- Love, Very Sad Consumer with Dirty Clothes", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2736, "id": 88227, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2737, "id": 88611, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2738, "id": 108305, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 378, "len_tokens": 497, "text": "I purchased this from Sears with good discount. I was happy with the cost. It was scheduled for delivery after 20 days. I was nervous investing that much on a refrigerator. But when Sears folks delivered and installed it well, and I was not disappointed.\n\nPROS:\n\n1-Looks, it makes your kitchen a lot more sellable. Ready for HGTV?\n2-Inside is roomy\n3-Well lit\n4-Ice and water outlet is flat and looks very modern. It is touch sensitive, not push sensitive. Just touch onto the buttons, they come off.\n5-Water coming out of the dispenser is filtered and has very pleasant taste. Filter is inside the frig easy to access. It is very small, won't take space.\n6-Flexible interior adjustment: you can move few thing around, and fit a Heineken keg easily.\n7-temperature separated sections: Upper part has 3 temperature separated sections.a-Regular larger section b)vegetables section which keep veggies moist and cooler c) deli section, which keeps meat coolest.\n8-Freezer is roomy with one large bottom section, and one drawer to put boxy stuff in orderly manner.\n9-External light is pleasantly lit and ambient: yet to find a way to keep it lit nonstop, but blue water-ice outlet light is very nice in dark.\n10-The Ice maker does not take the entire inside section of the right door where ice dispense is located outside. It is so well designed that you can still use the inside shelf located in front of the dispenser part of the fridge. most of the other brands use the dedicate that section for ice machine.\n11-Best buy for a luxury frig under $2,500.\n\nCONS:\n\nIf any..\n1- Due to nature of french-doors, the doors do not self close, Therefore, you have to give a light push to ensure that the doors close, which outlines the alarm issue many users are complaining about. But, if you close the doors properly, alarm will not sound, period. So, close the doors.:)\n2-A bit pricier than average regular frig, but this is not an average frig. This is a Bosch and this model cost twice as much in Europe.\n3- Stainless steel stains, but this is the nature of the stainless steel. If this is a concern for you, avoid stainless steel fridges.\n\nVERDICT:\n\nBUY IT !!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2739, "id": 186151, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 337, "len_tokens": 400, "text": "Just a couple weeks before I purchased this Eco-egg washing machine, I brought a hand-cranked Wonderwash from the Laundry Althernative. It came with missing hand-cranked handle and cap and drain host (Really!?). I was disappointed and upset that because of their careless mistakes, I had to spend time dealing with the return while I should be doing laundry at home. I thought I would give the Laundry Alternative a chance to earn my trust back and place an order for this Eco-egg machine and a Nina Soft spinner. I was so excited to get the washing machine and the spinner in about a week. However, after spending all the time to get the washing machine setup done - finding the right adapter to fit the faucet and the host, adjusting the knob, so the water wouldn't leak. I was SO DISAPPOINTED to find out the machine would not work!!! It was not moving at all after the power was on, On/Off button was on, the cycle selected, and the Start button pressed. I tried the \"Full Cycle\" several times and it did not work; tried the \"Wash Only\" several times and it did not work either. Yes, it could Rinse/Drain the water without a problem. BUT WHAT IS THE POINT to have an automatic washing machine IF IT CANNOT WASH the clothing I needed it to!!! Oh, and I also found out the model does not have \"Disinfection Only\" from the user manual and the box although the label on the machine itself said it has such function. I am really disappointed at the Laundry Alternative. And now I have to deal with the return process once again but with a different washing machine. I would give the company and the product a ZERO star if I could. I have not gotten a chance to test the spinner out. I will update this review if the Laundry Alternative make it hard for the customer to return the item or if the spinner is also a lemon.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2740, "id": 72697, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 432, "len_tokens": 476, "text": "I just got this installed today and have run a few cycles through so far. My installation required me to do some sheet metal trimming on the vent that goes through the wall (Not this Whirlpool part) in order to minimize the distance between the wall and dryer. I also had to cut several slots in the existing vent tube (Part through the wall) in order to expand around the the Whirlpool part. Instructions state to make a slit. I had to make a few in order to get it to fit which was not a big issue. The hardest part for installation for me was getting my dryer to slide on the floor while keeping both ends of the tube in while I was test fitting. I recommend test fitting everything and then marking where the upper and lower halves meet with a permanent marker and then remove the tube and tape the seam with foil tape.\nThe Good:\n- Reduced the distance that the dryer sat out away from the wall by about two inches which makes a big difference in my small utility room.\n- Having the ability to spin the round tubes separately from the box part of the periscope was VERY helpful during fitting and installation.\n- I have also noted that since I don't have a long length of corrugated tubing between the dryer and external vent the ambient temperature of the room remains much cooler.\nThe Not So Good:\n- I did have to do some sheet metal trimming and a bit of handling even when pulling the upper and lower pieces apart to swap them around. The edges are SHARP and I recommend either leather work or mechanics type of gloves while handling it.\n- Both the upper and lower periscope parts are constructed with two pieces of sheet metal sandwiched together with crimps on the outside edge. When I received the box from Amazon on of the halves had separated and I had to fit it back together and re-crimp it.\n- While it is not mandatory I highly recommend using foil tape to seal where the upper and lower halves fit together. It would be nice if a small strip of foil tape were included in the package with the ducting. I would think that material cost for Whirlpool would be very minimal in quantity.\nSo far I am happy with the purchase as I have regained a few usable inches back in my utility room and maybe keep the area cooler during the summer. I am glad I purchased this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2741, "id": 455906, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 355, "len_tokens": 476, "text": "What a hunk of miserable crap.\n\nAnd Since WHEN is 50lbs portable?\n\nDoes the ad mention it makes only 1 cup of ice at a time? No.\n\nDoes the description mention that you would have to be sitting their removing refreezing and refilling the machine 24/7 to get 33 lbs of ice (heaven forbid it worked that long).\n\nI get things break but Kalorik and their resellers (this is not coming from Amazon direct) are shameful.\n\nThe UNIT DID NOT WORK FROM THE BEGINING.  KALORIK SAID THEY HAVE NOT MADE THIS UNIT SINCE 2007 AND HAVE NO TECHNICAL SUPPORT.\n\nWHATS WORSE IS RETURNING A BADLY PACKED 50LB UNIT.\n\nMy story:\n\nThe market is flooded with these units all from LARGE third party sellers, which makes the return policy horrid.\n\nThey were made in 2007, and the factory has one and only one expert there who 'was on vacation'.\n\nProblems with the unit:\n\n1) it came in scratched and chipped while packaging was perfect.  means it was damaged prepacking and a refurb unit.\n\n2) Unit made one batch of ice, which promptly melted.\n\n3) Factory responce: It makes the ICE it just doesnt keep it cold, so of course you have to use your freezer.  (ask for the email).\n\n  This made no sense, so I unplugged it over nighht and it made great ice cubes this time that staid frozen.  So I took the ice out, added more water, and made more cubes.\n\n  When the second batch of ice came out, the lid closed and the unit stopped dead.  Everything melted, no more cubes, dead. no annoying noise.\n\nNow here is the problem, and maybe amazon is better with returns.\n\nThird party wouldnt pay for return shipping.  This 50lb beaast that was baddly packed, needed 80$ of shipping material.\n\nCalled Kalorik several times during this experience and they have school children answering the phone.  They laughed and giggled and said 'we haven't made that unit for a long time no one here knows about it'.\n\nWill NEVER buy from Kalorik again, and NEVER buy a large object on line.\n\nReferbed unit. Shame on them.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2742, "id": 398125, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 333, "len_tokens": 405, "text": "I bought this as 2nd compact dryer to supplement the 8 lb. capacity dryer I already have, so that it wouldn't take me literally all day (9 a.m. to midnight) to wash and dry what equals approx. 2 regular sized loads of clothes (if I were to use a full size washer/dryer).  Towels especially would take over two hours to dry just 2 or 3 of them!  I have only used it for one laundry day so far, but I am very pleased and impressed.  It was able to dry a full sized (big & tall man's) terry cloth bath robe in about 40 minutes, and other loads of regular clothes (between 4 to 7 pieces depending on size) in between 30 and 40 minutes per load.  A big improvement over my other dryer.\n\nThe controls are simple and easy to use.  However, the only issue I have is that the filter housing (which is on the inside back of the drum) is very hard to pull out - although it goes back on easy enough, and I'm hoping that perhaps it is only because the Panda is brand new, and with repeated removal for cleaning out lint, it will \"ease up\" over time.  I always clean the filters on both dryers after every load in order to keep them running at maximum efficiency.  I was able to stack my old dryer on top of this one which I have sitting on a metal water heater stand and there were no movement or vibration issues.  Using both dryers I was able to finish my laundry in 8 hours as opposed to 15 hours!\n\nAll in all, I am very pleased with this little workhorse so far and I would recommend.  I can't comment on it's longevity yet - but I feel confident that with proper care it will last for a long time.  If I should run into any issues I will edit this review - but I'm not anticipating any problems!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2743, "id": 87947, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2744, "id": 159538, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 326, "len_tokens": 403, "text": "Whirlpool 22003834 Water Valve Thermistor: Using this on our 10 year old Maytag Neptune front loading wash machine. Our water pressure in our home is about 94 Psi. The power went off the other day and I heard water dripping into the washer. If power is removed and the solenoid operated input water valve is questionable then it may leak. The high water pressure didn't help. This has happened before but this time it was bad. In order to get the accumulated water out of the machine I ran a spin cycle and walked away. 30 minutes later I returned, the floor in the laundry room and kitchen were covered with water (thank goodness for a shop-vac and a spin mop). The input water valve must have failed completely and the machine filled with water, when the door unlocked itself it opened from the large amount of water and it poured out.  I replaced the water valve Whirlpool 22003834 Water Valve Thermistor (thank goodness for Amazon Prime 2 day shipping). To be safe I installed two of these Valterra A01-1120VP 40-50 PSI Lead Free Water Regulators (Amazon Prime again). I had to remove the orange plastic hand tightening ring (interfered with the valve handle) and reverse the strainer/seal (as another reviewer mentioned). I measured the pressure from the regulator and it was 40 Psi hot & cold I have run about 10 loads of laundry using warm/cold setting and so far everything works very well. There is a nylon or similar material part in the brass Valterra reducer but I don't think it will melt or deform with hot water. The stainless steel unit Valterra A01-1114VP High Flow Stainless Steel Water Regulator (from Amazon) does not seem to have any similar nylon/plastic parts in it so I have one of these on hand just in case. The machine is actually working much better with the lower water pressure. I included some pictures.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2745, "id": 180318, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 339, "len_tokens": 462, "text": "Be wary you must know if your washing machine is \"low flow\" or \"high flow\".  If you don't match the correct pureWash model to your machine, you're gonna have a bad time.  So please do go beyond knowing if your machine is HE or not.  Some HE machines fill faster than others and therefore will need a \"high flow\" model.\n\nI have two pureWash units.  One for my home and one for a home I rent out.  The tenants of my rental property are thrilled at how their laundry becomes clean in only cold water with no use of detergent, thus saving them money.  I'm thrilled because the rent they pay me isn't being spent on excessive hot water sucking up my profits.\n\nYou must pre-treat certain stains.  Food coloring and ink stains need to be pre-treated.  I have not found a food stain which needs pre-treating.  I have not found any stains from hunting (blood, mud, etc.) which need pre-treating.  The pureWash system is a boon for hunters who want to remove scents from hunting garb.\n\nI also attached a \"Y\" splitter with valves so I can have \"pureWash water on demand\".  I use this to clean surfaces and....though I am not advising one do this....I swish it in my mouth as a rinse.  It tastes and reacts a lot like diluted hydrogen peroxide and studies have shown it to have many benefits.  NEVER SWALLOW IT.\n\nI am hoping the pureWash system may someday be integrated into a \"cold water only\" machine.  With a pureWash system, all the extra 'bells & whistles' are no longer necessary.  No more need for \"Steam Washing\" or \"Sanitizing Cycles\".  I just want a very basic machine with about five wash options (Delicate, Normal, Bulky, Heavy Duty and Rinse/Spin), three spin speeds and large capacity.  No more heaters, no more \"Intelligent Laundry Aid Dispersal Units\" and all that garbage we didn't have back in the 70s.  I say a simple solution like pureWash demands the elegance of a simple, yet highly effective, machine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2746, "id": 128627, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 368, "len_tokens": 454, "text": "To understand this review you must know a simple thing about injection molded plastic parts.  Virgin plastic pellets are always the best source material, they are heated up to melting then a plunger squirts a needed volume into a mold through a channel while forcing the air out a hole at the back.\n\nKnock off the piece of plastic that was the input channel and the whole for air to escape and you have your part.\n\nThose wasted pieces go via a vacuum tube off to the regrind system and are chipped up into, well, chips that resemble the virgin pelets used to make the part.  Only these chips are not virgin, they have been melted once. Good mfgrs make the best parts from all virgin material, but that is not cost effective.  NON-OEM (aftermarket) mfrgs take the regrind chips and mix in some percentage of regrind with virgin pelets to make a lower grade of plastic.  In the end it all works, but customers of those products may notice an off-taste to the water through the plastic filter?  Why?  Every time the plastic is melted oils come out to the surface, and eventually they make it into the water - after 20 gallons of washwater the aftermarket will taste the same as the OEM filter does with virgin plastic and just 1/2  - 1 gallon of washwater.\n\nSome people can not even detect the taste, so for them aftermarket filters can lead to 40% savings.  Others can taste the difference (even the appearance is visually different from the regrind in plastics)\n\nBuying a 2 pack saves some money - not 40% by any means, but since my dad and I use the same filter, and at about the same rate, we buy the factory OEM filters by the 2 pack for savings and good taste.\n\nThere are many more factors in doing injection molding I've left out - oils, release agents, FDA approved material being chosen overseas, etc - but it all plays into the part price and overall quality in the end.  It's a personal choice one must make.  I hope this helps - google \"injection molding\" regrind for more information about strength and other factors.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2747, "id": 107186, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 367, "len_tokens": 427, "text": "We inherited some fancy-looking but awful LG front-loading machines when we purchased our house. The washing machine in particular would vibrate violently, walk itself across the laundry room floor and crash itself into the dryer on one side and the slop sink on the other side (all of which have battle scars). We put the washing machine on the lowest possible setting for the spin cycle, but it still sounded like it was about to tear the house down.\n\nEnter the Silent Feet. Easy to install, and our problem washing machine is probably 75% better -- not perfect. It is bearable now. We still have to leave it on the lowest possible setting for spin cycle, but with the Silent Feet, it has stopped traveling around the laundry room and damaging everything that it comes into contact with. Every once in while, we noticed that the machine had migrated ever so slightly (half an inch maybe), and it was very easy to push it back into place -- it would then stay put for another month or two.\n\nThe only reason I'm giving this four stars is that the Silent Feet appeared to wear out after slightly over one year of use. We did have to slide the machine in and out quite a few times to vacuum out the dryer vent, clean/repair, etc., so the Silent Feet got a fair amount of use/abuse beyond the normal vibration of the washing machine. Recently, we were unable to properly slide the washing machine back into place. The Silent Feet in the back kept slipping off. I realized that the rubber had started to degrade, and the pad was starting to split/peel horizontally. While it's annoying that the Silent Feet didn't last longer, we did really put them to the test this year, and they performed beautifully. I did not hesitate to order another set of Silent Feet as a replacement, and we'll see how long this next set lasts. They work well enough, that I would begrudgingly buy replacements from time to time, as they're still much cheaper than replacing our washing machine (although I can't wait until the day we get rid of that monstrosity).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2748, "id": 88195, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2749, "id": 560718, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 367, "len_tokens": 428, "text": "My current FP washer is very similar to this one. It is the Ecosmart with agitator. I have had it 8 years with family of 5. The thing has run practically non stop. My wife beats the tar out of it day in a day out--she is a clean-clothes junkie.\n\nWe got a paper clip stuck in the divert valve once. I was able to remove it without even needing a tool! Just my fingers. It took only a few minutes.\nI was able to diagnose the problem using the self diagnostic feature on the front panel.\n\nOur unit recently had the water pump fail after 8 years of heavy use. It took literally 10 seconds to remove the old pump and 10 seconds to insert the new one! Again I used the diagnostics on the front panel to determine that the pump had failed--super easy. The parts are extremely easy to replace in this machine. I can not stress how important this is because it literally allows you to keep it in service far longer than other manufactures units.\n\nThe FP washer is quite advanced, it does not have a typical transmission to fail. Far fewer parts to break. Instead it deploys a single direct drive armature assembly, similar to a giant stepper motor. This allows it to be programmatically driven with software and also allows far more torque and wash cycle motions. It senses the resistance of clothing against the agitator to determine how much to fill the tub.\n\nIt does an exceptional job at cleaning clothes--actually quite amazing. You have to see it to believe it.\nThe spin speed is one of the most prominent features. It spins the load so ***fast***, they come out mostly dry. This results in far less time in the dryer where clothes get beat up the most. The result is far less water usage and far better drying times--less energy and less wear and tear on clothes.\n\nHighly recommend this. I would get another FP washer in a heartbeat if our current unit ever broke and became too expensive to repair. But since it is so easy to repair it may be some time yet before that occurs!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2750, "id": 182097, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 384, "len_tokens": 474, "text": "I rated this 5 stars, even though the first freezer I was sent had to be returned.  I wish I had read this in the reviews, but here is what happened.  The Freezer was shipped with no markings saying \"This End Up\" or \"Fridge Enclosed - do not Tip\".  It arrived via UPS, we plugged it in, and instantly it began to make this horribly loud grinding noise.  We were horrified, as this was going in my niece's dorm room and would wake up half the floor if it continued to make that noise.  20 min later, a contractor friend of mine told me that it must have been tipped over during shipping, and it needed to sit for 24 hrs so the Freon or whatever fluid he said had seeped into the compressor because it had been tipped over or sideways, could drain out.  We tried that - unplugging it for 36hrs, but the moment we plugged it back in...  the noise was back.  We left it plugged in for 12 hours, but the noise didn't stop.\n\nAs frustrating as this was, I had read previous reviews where people said this was a very quiet freezer that made only a trickling noise, so I was determined to give it another chance.  We returned the freezer and had a new one shipped out.  Again, no markings on the box, but we made sure at least from the UPS driver to her dorm, that the box didn't get tipped. (He noted that the box should have been labeled as I suggested above, otherwise UPS guys probably would not know to keep it upright). We also let the freezer sit (before plugging it in) for 24 hrs.  Finally - we plugged it in and... whala!  There was the soft trickling noise we were hoping for, and no loud Compressor!  She has used it for 2 weeks and loves it.\n\nTwo things that could have saves us a TON of trouble:  if The Box had been labeled properly (DO NOT TIP, etc.).  and if the instruction manual had said not to turn it on for 24 hrs after if has possibly been tipped.  Luckily for me, my contractor friend knew what was happening, but all in all it shouldn't have had to be that difficult.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2751, "id": 528239, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 392, "len_tokens": 483, "text": "When your 10 year old Frigidaire freezer goes berserk, this was the fix.  It started when I noticed the front panel said 10 degrees.  But I know I had set it to 0 degrees.  It's been that way for a long time.  So I set it back to 0 degrees.  The next day, it was at 10 degrees again.  Then a few weeks later the light started acting funny.  It would take a while to fully turn on.  The more I opened and closed the freezer door, the weirder it acted until finally the display went crazy.  It would show partial number segments, or a \"1\", etc.  Then the freezer shut off.  So I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it started running.  But it wasn't long before it acted all crazy again.  Finally even unplugging it didn't help.  I thought maybe there was a short somewhere.  But everything looked good underneath and at the back.  I disconnected connectors and plugged back together.  All sorts of things.  Then I saw the diagram on the back.  It shows the light switch and the light bulb are inputs to a control module.  An Internet search and reading comments on Amazon convinced me the module had gone bad.  We put the food in another freezer we had access to and ordered this module (it an updated part number).  Two days later I had the module and replaced it and the freezer works perfectly as if brand new again.  It was also a good chance to clean the inside of the freezer really well and it defrosted really well as there was quite a bit of water that ran out from underneath and from the door too.  Very happy!  In the pictures, you can see what the face of the module looks like, the one with the yellow label is the original, the white label is the one I received, and the last picture is the empty socket where the module fits.  There are 6 places where the module snaps in (3 on top and 3 on bottom).  I pretty much broke the tabs on the old module as I didn't know the exact placement of the tabs.  The replacement will snap in all the way with some patience.  The biggest electrolytic cap on the old module was bulging on the top.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2752, "id": 318350, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 410, "len_tokens": 470, "text": "First of all, this item is for a GE side by side refrigerator with a water and ice dispenser in the door.  It may very well fit other brands as well. I must say first of all, the part is the exact same GE factory part that came in a sealed GE factory box identical to the old one down to the length of the tubing which was the perfect length and required no cutting. Not some knock-off from china.  The box was inside of a nicely packed larger shipping box. This part shows available on many other internet appliance parts sites, but most do not indicate whether it actually is GE oem parts or some cheap knockoff with possibly the wrong size tubes. One of the reasons I wrote this is because the description here on Amazon says very little and really only mentions the part number.\n\n This is the water tank that is located on the inside of the refrigerator on the back wall behind the produce draw. The small tank allows the water a chance to cool down before it is dispensed through the door. The tank is fastened to the back wall with two philips head screws. Two polyethelene tubes come fixed on the tank.  The shorter is the tank entry tube which litterally slide fits snug (without the need of any tools) into the soleniod valve at the back of the refrigerator.  The longer exit tube goes underneath the refrig to the front slide fitting below the door with the water and ice dispenser.  The reason I replaced this part is that the polyethelene tubing had developed tiny cracks that allow very subtle water leak and allowed air into the tubing.  The cracks developed in two seperate areas where the tubing had bends in it. First I began to notice that the water dispenser had a slight water dispensing delay.  At first I though it maybe a failing water valve soleniod. Low and behold the culprit was the fine cracks in the bends of the tubing at the back near the solenoid valve.\n\nIt took me about 40 minutes to remove the old tank and tubing and install and run the new tubes in the exact same manner. After it was installed, I thoroughly tested the dispenser to make sure there were no leaks at the tube fittings. Remember to always unplug the electrical cord when inspecting the water features of the refrigerator.  Good luck.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2753, "id": 122043, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 348, "len_tokens": 423, "text": "Absolutely horrible dishwasher.  We replaced it with a new LG unit after 1 1/2 years of usage.  After spending $1400 for the KitchenAid dishwasher, I was surprised as to how low quality it (and probably all other KitchenAid dishwashers) was built.  The first part that went bad, around a year into using the dishwasher was the upper rack posts that support the rolling wheels started breaking 1 by 1.  I looked at it and the post itself was made from cheap plastic, whereas all other dishwashers I looked at when got the replacement dishwasher had a metal post there, hence no breakage.  Once it breaks, Sears and all other suppliers I found on the net charge at lease $30 for the part.  Having 4 roller posts on the upper rack, be prepared to spend $120 to replace the parts (this is if you are a handyman and actually know how to replace the part).  I'm pretty handy but I could not figure out how to remove the broken post contraction from the rack, so I just used my own screws and washers to build a new support contraption for the upper rack.  It did not roll, but at lease we can wash dishes once again.  Then right after this happened, the computer circuit board went bad and the wash cycles did not drain at all.  We ended up having to do 2 cycles per load, the first load washes with soap, then manually called the drain cycle, and run a second wash cycle with no soap to rinse the dishes.  Maybe this is a lemon unit per for circuit board, but the construction of the rack posts and the price they charge for replacement gives me every indication there is no quality built into in these dishwashers at all.  They probably count on these parts breaking so people will have to pay an arm and a leg for replacements for profitability.  Before you buy these and any other KitchenAid units, make sure to take a close look at how they are built and compare to other dishwashers.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2754, "id": 108314, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 401, "len_tokens": 478, "text": "I've had Bosch appliances for years, and used to have a very strong belief in their product line.  If you purchased Bosch goods 10 or so years back, then you probably own a true, German made item.  From my understanding, Bosch has since created a manufacturing plant here in the States, where there just isn't the same commitment to excellence in standards. It also seems that the tolerance of mediocrity is greater here in the US, as consumers seem to have been conditioned to accept/expect less and less over time.\n\nThis unit does boast tremendous capacity/storage, and is exceptionally well lit. It really does seem to keep foods, such as fruits and vegetables, more viable over time. The freezer is also commodious, though not quite so as the refrigerator itself.\n\nI've owned this model for 3 years now, as of this writing.\nSome problems are/were:\n-After delivery, it became evident that the gasket around the freezer door was not properly attached and had to be serviced, albeit easily, though there was a great deal of condensation for a while along the freezer door, before the repair.\n-The ice maker seems to make ice only when it is good and ready, and sometimes days will elapse before ice is available.\n-The option of crushed ice vs regular cubes - it seems impossible to distinguish between the two, though no big deal.\n-The water dispenser is super-slow and takes a while to fill even small glasses.\n-A few months ago, there was a loud, vibrating sound that came on and off again, as if one of the fans were off kilter. I was going to call for service, but the sound stopped. I can't detect any difference in operation since the sound stopped, but fear that the fan, or its motor, just eventually blew out.\n-The quality of the stainless steel is not the utmost, though decent enough, but just not for the money.\n\nI would proceed with some caution when considering making this purchase, and keep your fingers crossed (which is really no way to go forward).\nIt may just be that there are some good and bad units of its type out there. I had looked at so many refrigerators prior to the purchase of this one and found that (possibly) for the money, it was about the best. It has the name, but unfortunately, that somehow means less nowadays...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2755, "id": 27377, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 375, "len_tokens": 467, "text": "As for function, I would hate to see what my humidifier would look like without having a demineralization pad in it. They are always disgusting and cruddy when I throw them out (about every 2 weeks) and that's using filtered water. My scale buildup in the heating element/resevoir is manageable and comes right off after a 20 minute vinegar soak. So I think they're doing their job.\n\nYes, they are \"too big\" for the Vicks humidifier. I am, however, quite sure that everyone on this site owns a pair of scissors. Just cut them down, it's really not a big deal. They are literally twice as much as you get of the official Vicks/Kaz brand product for the same price. So if you value your money, buy these and trim them. If you have more money than time (as in 30 seconds to cut a rough cirle) buy the brand name and you will obviously not have to deal with trimming. For what it's worth, my Vicks humidifier came with the original pad just stuffed into the heating element/resevoir all willy nilly, which didn't hurt it at all as far as I can tell, and when I change them, even using the \"right\" ones from Vicks, usually by the time I take it out it's all scrunched up and not a perfect little circle of pad. It's really not going to matter if you can't get it cut into a perfect circle that is exactly the right size.\n\nPS: These can't  \"melt\" like some reviews have mentioned. What happens is that if you have very hard water and you DON'T change your mineral pad or clean out the unit enough, the minerals in the pad bond to the minerals building up on your heating element, and create a big mess. If this happens, you can usually do vinegar soaks for a few days (soaking for 8 hours or overnight and then changing it, for about 3 or 4 soaks worth) and get all of the buildup and the remains of the pad out. Clean the unit once a week like the instructions state and inspect your pads and you'll bypass this headache - you'll know when it's time to replace from the looks of it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2756, "id": 219175, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 346, "len_tokens": 400, "text": "I received the cooler in perfect condition and have been using it for a week. It is freestanding in a room that is typically 73-77 degrees. There is 6 inches or more of space behind and on both sides of the unit.\n\nI keep one side at 55 degrees and the other at 60 degrees. Since it is thermoelectric, the cooler will not go more than 25 degrees below ambient, and I have observed that it will only go down to 53 degrees. The top of each side stays about 5-7 degrees warmer than the bottom.\n\nWhen first turned on, the fans will spin faster until the set temperature is reached. The fans will be exhausting maximum heat while it cools down, so leaving extra space around the unit helps it cool faster. After that, the fans slow down and the unit becomes very quiet. If the door is opened for more than a few seconds, the fans will speed up again for a little while until it cools off. If you put in many bottles at room temperature, it can take a few hours or more to reach the set temperature and the quiet fan speed. Also note that if you set the temperature lower than the unit can achieve, the fans will continuously run at high speed.\n\nI find it useful to put thermometers in the bottom half of each side. If you find that it can't maintain at least 20 degrees below ambient, there may not be enough space around the unit. If it is cooling properly, but the fans are still running fast, try raising the temperature one degree at a time until they slow down.\n\nI gave it four stars because it could be a little better at keeping the temperature uniform from top to bottom and it could benefit from another few degrees of cooling.\n\nAll in all, I am very happy with the wine cooler. I can keep both sides close to 55 degrees for storage or raise one to 60-65 degrees for red wine serving temperatures when desired.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2757, "id": 182648, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 337, "len_tokens": 405, "text": "My husband and I purchased a Whirlpool Cabria washer and dryer brand new four years ago.  The dryer continually had problems with the rear felt belt because the drum was out of round and would wear the felt thin until it broke altogether.  First time it was repaired under warranty, then two additional times it happen and the company we purchased it from was kind enough to replace it with the same type of dryer.  However, at the time. I was  not told the front of the dryer had been replaced with the front of the first dryer.  (The second dryer was damaged cosmetically.)  Now for the third time the same issue has occurred.  Same scenerio, covered under the warranty the first time.  So I contacted Whirlpool because it does no good to repair the product.  It took three days before I could talk to anyone that would say anything besides \"we can't help you\".  So I finally get through to a \"customer service\" person, have no clue who the other people were!  He begins by telling me I have had the same dryer for four years.  I explain how I came about the second dryer...switching the front of the dryer had consequently keep the model and serial number of the first dryer!\nHe tells me I need to contact the store I bought it from and get a copy of the \"purchase receipt showing the date\".  I asked why he couldn't contact them directly and he said no.  He eventually discovers he can not pull up all the repair receipts and will HAVE TO CONTACT THE STORE FOR THE INFORMATION!  Long story short he calls them, then returns my call and says because the dryer has a \"used part\" on it there is nothing they can do.  That I need to go back to the store and have them call?????  I have gotten NOWHERE as of yet, but plan to take this further, just not sure where yet!  Would never buy another one of their products!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2758, "id": 457843, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 333, "len_tokens": 426, "text": "Had this oven only since Sept 09.  Bought because of supposed good quality; willing to pay a little more than standard.  We don't use it that often but do bake at least 1-2 month.  From the very beginning, I thought it baked items too quickly, often drying them out when they should have had several minutes more before being done.  Didn't matter if I used convection or not; same issue.  I simply adjusted cooking times down and that helped a bit.  Last few times, I noticed muffins that had burnt bottoms but only on one side of the tin; that shouldn't be.  I inspected the oven and saw what looked like an \"S\" shaped puddle on the bottom left hand side of my oven lining.  Made a mental note to clean it up when it cooled down but it disappeared.  So I turned the oven on empty and saw that it reappeared. Disappeared when it was cool.  Called repair/service to come out.  The lining is practically burnt through and warped because the element shorted out and is malfunctioning.  It was probably something that occurred during manufacturing.  Electrolux will not offer me more than 10% discount on a new liner.  I still have to pay for the new element which costs about the same as the liner.  With 2.5 estimated hours of labor, it will total $800.  So this was a waste of money; we paid over $2100 with tax and installation 3 years ago and now another $800. So it cost us $706 per year for the life of the oven.  The worst part is how Electrolux positions itself as a quality oven and it's cheaply made and won't last even 5 years.  If you HAVE to buy it, get the extended warranty and make sure it covers the element and liner.  The repair man told me that not only was this issue a fire hazard, it was an electrocution hazard as well. Kelly Ripa owes me a refund. Bad product, stay away.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2759, "id": 87651, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2760, "id": 476979, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 402, "len_tokens": 488, "text": "Mine is having loud and long squeaking noises weeks before, especially at the beginning of spinning cycle, and also has some short-duration noises during the washing cycle as well. I always like to do preventive works so tried to tackle it before anything fails. After taking the front panel off, during the operation, I can hear the loud noise but can't pinpoint exactly where the noise coming from. Pump? Belt? Tub bearing, or even the transmission? The normal noises of the machine running make it that much difficult to tell where the squeaks come from. Replaced the pump first, no that's not it. Replace the belt second, no that's not it. Was just thinking about replacing the tub bearing next which would take a lot more work (Washer hub and seal kit, parts# W10219156), then suddenly the washer stop spinning; but can still agitate. Thank goodness this happened (ironically I know) which helps rule out the tub bearing as if bearing is bad nothing would move; and allow me to pinpoint to this Thrust Bearing issue. Take out the old parts and found the wheel's narrow end was grind down and damaged. Ordered from Amazon (not 3rd parties) and used same day shipping on this Memorial day and it shipped around 12p and arrived at 5:30p! I'm really impressed by this speed even during the Memorial holiday, Amazing Amazon!\n\nOne thing to note is there are a lot of reviews reporting having problem installing the C-clip. The thrust bearing has slopping edges so you need to rotate the wheel and make sure the thrust bearing is at its highest point (toward the upper side) and fully engaged to the wheel so you have enough room cleared at lower end to be able to put on the C-clip. If you pay attention to that you won't have problem to put the C-clip on. I used the thinner washer and it is tight, it's supposed to be tight but but it can still be put on. After install you can test it by turning it and make sure it starts engage between the marks, which is exactly what it does on mine.\n\nSuper happy this turns out to be an easy fix. Was surprised by how this parts can make such loud noises, and more metal-sound-like, rather than plastic-sound-like noises too. Share my stories hopefully helps anyone experiencing the loud noise issue like mine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2761, "id": 88379, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2762, "id": 100115, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 358, "len_tokens": 483, "text": "It took me 96 hours to do one load of laundry.\n\nI was trying to do a simple, medium sized load of underwear and socks (this is equal to about 1/4 of what one standard, industrial washer could handle at a laundromat). The wash cycle takes 2-2:30 of tumbling by hand, and the water ran dirty as was expected. Then comes the rinse cycle, another 1:30 of tumbling with only water. The water is supposed to run clean at this point, but it ran dirty. No big deal, I thought. Underwear should be dirtier than shirts. So I run the rinse cycle again, another 1:30 of tumbling by hand. Still the water runs dirty. One more try. Still the water runs dirty. One more try....still dirty!!!! It took five rinse cycles of 1:30 each, and one tumble cycle of 2:30, for it to finally run clean. That's 10:00 total just spent spinning the handcrank. Draining the water takes another minute each time, so add six minutes to that for 16:00. Then you have to wring out the clothes, or they're too wet to dry and risk becoming moldy. Add another 3:00 for that. With a 1-minute setup to the machine, that means 20:00 for one medium sized load of underwear, all done with a hand crank.\n\nThen came the drying. These clothes come out *very* wet -- much more than your standard washing machine. Regular, fruit-of-the-loom underwear and hanes socks took 4 days to air dry in a fully ventilated apartment. Four days!! I air dry my clothes, even when using a washing machine, and I've never seen anything come out so wet it takes that long to dry.\n\nSo, all in all, it took 96 hours to do one minuscule load of laundry. If I had tried to do one full load of underwear, what a regular washer could handle at a laundromat, it would have required doing that about 4 times, or an hour and twenty minutes just spent cranking and draining and wringing out clothes.\n\nNOT WORTH IT!!! One star, only because it technically does get the clothes clean, albeit after a herculean effort.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2763, "id": 456152, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 399, "len_tokens": 460, "text": "This unit looks great and works very well. The doors work smoothly and quietly. The control panel is easy to use and we were able to use it right away with no problems in using the basic functions. More advanced functions really are also easy to use after reading the owners manual. We just use the features that we need. The oven came with 3 racks upper and 2 lower. There is an optional alf rack that ships with some ovens but not ours.\n\nWe opted for the stainless unit and it has its usual stainless fingerprint issues. The convection on top automatically converts the temp or time for baking and you can bake 3 racks at once. This is the first oven we owned that the broil worked as it features a 6 pass broil element. No more burned spots on the french bread. The unit will shut itself off automatically after 12 hours. And there are many other features on the control panel.\n\nOne suprise was when a small cooling fan kicked on during oven operation. This is normal and is mentioned in the owners manual. It helps keep the control panel and cabinet cool. I had wondered how Maytag was keeping a double oven livable in a standard wall oven cabinet without the \"this thing can get your cabinet fairly warm warning\". This cooling fan is a PLUS and should have been mentioned as a feature and not as an afterthought.\n\nThe unit was packed very well and quite frankly I was suprised to see how well it was protected. It really is reassuring to see that Maytag did not skimp in this area as this gives a good first impression. The oven requires a 220V 40A circuit. Maytag recommended dimensions for the cabinet are spot on and the unit fits very well into the wall cabinet.\n\nInstallation is fairly easy. Maytag recommends removing the doors for installation. This is not a bad idea as the unit weighs over 200 lb. I left the doors on as I had a platform for the oven to slide into the cabinet.  Pull the oven back out about 2 inches and install the lower trim piece. Push the oven back in, open one oven door and then install the trim screws in the sides (2 each side). Don't overtighten these screws. Do the same for the other door.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2764, "id": 365854, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 411, "len_tokens": 484, "text": "It turned out to be larger than I had pictured. I measured the interior dimensions top to bottom and of\ncourse width on both sides and I came up with a measured cubic foot area of 0.92 cu ft. Thought that might be\nhelpful to some. On my last load the motor seemed to strain a little getting up to the normal swirling motion speed nearly\nevery time the agitator changed direction. I was washing an aged pair of blue jean shorts, 3 t-shirts,\n1 tank top, 1 pair of socks,& 1 wash cloth. When I removed one of the t-shirts the motor returned to its normal agitator\naction and with out strain. The clothes came very clean. Pretty pleased there. The Spin-Dry cycle of this thing is a whole\ndifferent story. The spin basket is rather small and it performs mediocre at best in terms of removing moisture from the\ncentrifugal action. For one thing it doesn't spin fast enough IMO to be effective at spin drying and it is difficult near impossible to get the load balanced adequately. It will remove some of the moisture almost comparable to one wringing them out by hand. Guess some of that is dependent on how strong your hands and wrists are.. :-)\nI also purchased the Laundry Alternative's entry spin dryer that has the < $90 price currently and its a Prime item on\nAmazon. I did a comparative test and I will say the Laundry Alternatives spin cycle removed more than 2x's the amount of\nmoisture from the same load after I had already used the spin-dry cycle of the Arksen Washer.\n\nOne last thing for now: First time I operated the washer was in my kitchen which is rather small and it ran fine but gave off a offensive odor which seemed to be giving me a mild head-ache. It seems to have dissipated. I did move the unit to\nmy basement where I use the cold water fill and hot water fill hoses from my old large capacity whirlpool washer that broke 2 wks ago to fill the portable washer. I set the Arksen unit on a shower chair and set it next to the toilet that is also close by to the washer and is where I drain the wash water and the water from the spin dry cycles. Will update more later if something significant comes about. Thanks for reading my review. Hope it was helpful.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2765, "id": 402264, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 368, "len_tokens": 465, "text": "I recived my mini wash on 2/20/18 have done easy over 10 loads in this machine.\n1. I make sure not to over load it and fill the water (at or below the \"M\" located inside the wash tub)\n2. I add my soap no more than 2tbs( i use arm and hammer santitive) . I use cold water for all my washes so alway put 2tbs.for most loads\n3. I turn on the mechine and let the soap mix in and add  cloths( your cloths should be fully submerged in the water) you can add a little more water if you need to at this point but sure to keep our loads small)\n4) when i us the spinner i ususally do a total of 4 spinns( sliting each load)\n5. First spin, you need to connect the intack hose to the spinner side and turn on your tap while the spinner is on( this step get all the soap out of cloths)\n6. I leave what in the wash tub while i spin to keep the machine balanced while the spinner is on.\n7. After i am done spinng i emtpy the water and fill the tub up again with water to the M line again\nNote: make sure you don't forget about the water being on(  time the amount of time it takes for your tub to fill to the \"M\" inside machine to ensure you don't leave the water running\n8. Add no more than a 1tbs and a half of fabric conditioner( i use snuggles). I set the timer for no langer than 6mins or so\n9. For the last spin you do not turn on the water but also, split your conditioned loads,for 2 spinnes. I set the time for 5mins and stop it half way through and arrange the cloths, bring the bottom garments to the top to get the best results ( your cloths will be still damp when you take them out of the spinner)\nI love this machine, it has changed the way i look at laundry. I will Deffinently recommend every one to have one of these in your home.\nP.s. And its fun to use.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2766, "id": 561734, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 360, "len_tokens": 441, "text": "DO NOT TRUST SAMSUNG. I AM KOREAN AND I DO NOT TRUST THIS BRAND. WILL NEVER EVER PURCHASE A SAMSUNG PRODUCT AGAIN. If I could give it 0 stars, I would. After 2 years, conveniently after the warranty has expired, the refrigerator stopped working. We called Samsung to have someone come out to look. The first technicians were unreachable. The 2nd technicians said they were not accepting new requests. So then Samsung asked us to hire a local company to diagnose and fix the problem. If it was covered under the limited warranty, such as a compressor, then they would reimburse us. So the local guys come out and diagnose it as a compressor issue. We pay a non-refundable $200 deposit, have them order the part, and then they come out to replace it. Once they open it up, they say its not fixable because the freon has leaked out somewhere. To be able to find and fix it would cost us $1000+ and void the compressor warranty without a guarantee that it is fixable. So we call Samsung again and they want to sent their people out again to make sure this is the case. So then we pay another $100 for these guys to come out and they say it is a motor board or inverter issue. They order the part and come back to replace them and of course it doesn't fix it. Now it's a compressor issue again. Except these guys won't be able to fix a compression until July 1, putting us at 4+ weeks without a fridge. So we call Samsung again and tell them the issue and they want us to hire a local company to fix the compressor. Back to square one. Now we are $300 out of pocket plus another $200+ for the minifridge and freezer we had to buy to hold us over. They refuse to reimburse us for the cost of having all these people come to our home to diagnose a problem that they can't fix. DO NOT TRUST SAMSUNG. I AM KOREAN AND I DO NOT TRUST THIS BRAND. WILL NEVER EVER PURCHASE A SAMSUNG PRODUCT AGAIN.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2767, "id": 88315, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2768, "id": 554967, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 275, "len_tokens": 403, "text": "<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/LG-LDE4415ST-30-34-Freestanding-Double-Oven-Electric-Range-with-5-Cooking-Elements-in-Stainless-Steel/dp/B016AR39L8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">LG LDE4415ST 30\" Freestanding Double Oven Electric Range with 5 Cooking Elements in Stainless Steel</a>I purchased this stove about 1 year ago - Fall 2015.  I did a lot of research to select it and I love most of its features, but it has a dangerous design flaw that makes it a potential fire hazard.  The knobs that turn on the burners are positioned at the front of the stove are exceedingly easy to turn on.  You need to depress the knobs less than 1/8 of an inch to turn them on and I can easily do so just with the very tip of my little finger!  This makes it very easy to accidentally turn on the burners and even easier to turn the burner inadvertently on high once it's already on.  This has happened to me several times -- both while cooking and while just passing the stove.  I consider it an accident waiting to happen.  Fortunately for me, it was just a plastic object that melted when the stove was accidentally turned on.  We discovered it when we smelled the burning and no fire resulted.  I called customer service and the rep noted that the knobs were \"very sensitive\" and this was a dangerous design flaw, but could offer nothing beyond \"purchase plastic knob covers\" that I'd need to keep on all the time, including when cooking, or sending a repairman, at my cost, to see if the knobs could be repaired.  He did say hed notify the design team, but also said that no one would contact me about my concern.  Please beware of this dangerous design flaw!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2769, "id": 87899, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2770, "id": 67363, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 384, "len_tokens": 498, "text": "Apparently Broan has 2 filters that has exact same size: B29 for ducted and 41F for non-ducted. They are in the same size, just different thickness and different level of filtering. For obvious reasons, I'm guessing buyers would be looking for 41F for non-ducted, since the item description says so.\n\nI've read a lot of speculations as to what the filter they had received, which was thinner and more loose. I don't know if it's the case of \"knock-off\" or not, but at any rate, I was told it would be 41F with 1/2 inch thickness. However, one that I received had the thickness of 2/3 of its description. As you can see in the picture, (from the product description), it should have thick cloth-like blue material at the other end as well, so that it could filter as many as possible. One that I received was definitely not meant to be used for non-ducted.\n\n-- update 10/20/15\n\nI returned what I received, and ordered through Amazon this time. And I have to say, it was 3 dollars well spent. It is generic; it is not a filter from Broan, but it fits Broan range hood, and the paper slip (as a manual) does mention Broan non-ducted range hood. That being said, now I find the returned filter highly suspect. That had nothing but a plastic package around it, and it was clearly meant to be used for ducted-model. I would advise you to check, if you have bought one of these, the density of the filter. If it is missing thick cloth-like filter at the end, I doubt it's meant to be used for non-ducted range hood. Besides, the item you had received does NOT have blue cloth-like filter, then you may request return/replacement, because that is clearly not what the description photo is showing.\n\nAnother thing I noticed from the proper filter was that it is meant to be used up to 12 months, while Broan customer support FAQ says up to 6 months. I don't know what caused that difference, but as always, the sign is the discoloration in filters, so check one in awhile (like every other month) to see if it worn down.\n\nAll in all, be careful not to go for the cheapest. That's all I can say.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2771, "id": 402380, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 393, "len_tokens": 486, "text": "I bought one of these for my apartment and now I'm stuck with it, so I thought I reveiw it. I've used it about 4 times, but finally got frustrated and just go to the coin laundry now because I'm in and out in 45-50 min vs the 3-4 hours it takes to do laundry with this thing and an in-home clothes dryer thing (you've seen those too I'm sure!). First off, you need to put this thing in your shower or bathtub to use it, so you have to lug it around the apartment in order to use it (a hassle). Second, you have to get a special hose to get it to connect to the shower or bathtub spout, so get ready to have to buy a \"Washing Machine Drain Hose Extension\" in addition to this unit in order to even be able to use it properly (the flimsy thin tube they provide with the packaging is totally useless, believe me!!!). Third, when using it, you have \"babysit\" the entire procedure. You can't just throw a bunch of clothes in it and expect it to work on it's own like a normal washing machine. TO WIT: By \"babysit\" I mean you have to continually lift the top of the washer reservoir to move the clothes around in the hot water (yep, actually get your hands down in that hot laundry soapy water!) so that the clothes don't get tangled into an impossible spiders web, something you can't untangle (which they WILL if you leave it alone). Then, after you drain the hot soapy water, you have to re-fill it with cold water, and get your hands down in there AGAIN during the rinse. It's a total pain!  Then, for the Spin Dry side, you have to go 3-5 articles of clothing per spin, which is a huge time waster. All in all, 1 single load of a weeks worth of shorts and t-shirst would take me about 2 hours to totally complete and have ready to dry in the dryer machine (another waste of money item that I bought! Hahaha!). Anyways, hope this helps. I'd only buy this thing if I had no other way to wash clothes. At the coin laundry my clothes come out cleaner, softer, and everything gets done faster.  Thanks for reading!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2772, "id": 65256, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 378, "len_tokens": 471, "text": "So glad I bought this.  A few days ago, I washed and dried some white sheets.  When I took them out of the drier to put back on the bed, I saw something that looked like dried mud on the sheets.  Weird, I thought.  Rinsed them out, dried them again, went to put them back on the bed, and MORE \"mud\".  Did a quick Google search and read that my drier vents were probably clogged and were a fire hazard.\n\nI was about to call a repairman to come \"fix\" my drier, but after looking on Amazon, I found this product and decided to purchase it.  (Yay for Prime 2-day shipping.)  It arrived on Sunday, and I put it together and inserted into the outside vent opening.  I didn't actually use the drill, because the battery was dead.  After getting some lint out (not a huge amount), I went inside and tried the same thing from where the vent goes through the floor and under the house.  I felt like it got stuck on one of the bends, so I went outside and tried it from the outside again.  Same result.  At that point I went in and turned on the drier, but this time there was no air coming out the vent.\n\nI figured I had somehow disconnect the vent under the house, so my husband (lucky guy) got to crawl under the house and see what I had done.  I had, in fact, disconnected a joint in the vent, so he fixed that, but when he crawled out, he brought a HUGE pile of lint.  I think I had jammed it into an elbow of the vent.  Maybe if I had used the drill it wouldn't have done that, but, oh well - no real harm done.\n\nI then cleaned out the back of the drier and got a good amount of lint and used the long brush to clean out the slot where the filter goes.\n\nTurned the drier back on and YAY  - it works!  Bottom line, is that towels that used to take over an hour to dry now take about 40 minutes, and I don't have to worry about burning down my 100 year old plus house down.\n\nHIGHLY recommend this product.!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2773, "id": 470238, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 408, "len_tokens": 475, "text": "We bought this dishwasher because our other one had a fork drop in the basin and the process of heating the dishes heated the fork enough to put a hole in the tub.  We decided we would need a sturdier tub so we bought a stainless steel one.  I initially liked the idea of the adjustable rack and the pro scrub action but when I arrived home found that I never needed either of those features.\n\nWe had the dishwasher home 3 months and it started running when the door was open, if a button was accidentally pushed.  We had a couple of water on the floor incidents until I realized what was happening.  We learned to get around it then a month later the top rack broke.  The dishwasher was still under warranty so we called out a technician.  He repaired the rack, fixed the problem of running with door open (replaced latch), and I forgot it just wasn't cleaning well.  He ended up having to replace the broken disposal.\n\nSince then, we've had no problems with the latch or the disposal, but the shelves are horrible.  My bottom shelf has slowly lost all of the wheels but we still guide it out.  (It's 2 years old now, by the way.)  But the worst problem is the top shelf.  We have learned to fix it ourselves, but it occurs on alternate sides about every 3 months.\n\nWe paid more money thinking we were getting a quality dishwasher.  The plastic parts on this are awful!  I almost feel like it was done on purpose so they could continue making money on customers.  One of the clips that is about 1 by 1 inch commonly breaks and if you don't notice in time the whole side ends up breaking.  The clip is $20 plus and the other part is about $15 and both parts needed for repair are commonly on back order.  Luckily we have a store that sells the parts and my husband has learned right where they are kept.\n\nOur latest fix which I'm sure will be more permanent than the parts themselves includes numerous zip ties holding the top rack on.\n\nDO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON THIS MACHINE!!!!  This is not a quality dishwasher and just this one appliance and having to deal with Kitchenaid customer service on a regular basis has led me to the conclusion that I will not buy Kitchenaid ever again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2774, "id": 492499, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 390, "len_tokens": 456, "text": "I just got the NuWave PIC2 (and extra one for shipping and handling) offer and I got mislead by the TV advertisement and NuWave website reviews (which are all 5 stars and a few 4 stars). This NuWave PIC2 can't even heat up more than 3 quarts of water in a large pan. I did a side by side comparison of this PIC2 and the electric stove element and no comparison. It is the total opposite of what the TV Advertisement shows.\nIf you want on more than 2 quarts of water in a large pan to heat up, good luck. The pan might be damaged first before because of the time it might take (the 2 PIC2's that I tested never did get to 212 degrees). It only heats up in the center of the pan so anything larger that a 6\" pan will not heat at the same temperature on the outer sides of the pan surface as the center. This means you will not be cooking at the same temperature for whatever you are cooking. Also, forget what temperature the PIC2 says, it is not the actual temperature that it is cooking at. The 2 PICs that I tested on cooked at least 7-10 plus degrees higher than what was showing on the PIC2, and the temperature continued to climb when cooking at temperatures between 100 warm and 375 high. I tried to keep macaroni and cheese warm after I cooked it on the stovetop and it would not even keep it warm at low. The inner part of the pan was warm, but once again the outer part of the pan was cold because the heating element of the PIC2 only gets hot in the middle 6 inches. What a bust.\nI am going to post a YouTube video showing the comparison of cooking with the PIC2 and an electric stove top so people can see how much it really doesn't work.\nThis product and the advertising practices of this product is so misleading and so awful that I am reporting this to the BBB and telling everyone I know to not trust another TV Advertising again. The bad thing is they charged $89.85 for shipping and handling which I will not get back, and probably charge me similar to send these 2 back.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2775, "id": 124290, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 345, "len_tokens": 421, "text": "I bought this mode shifter assembly to repair my 7-year-old GE Profile washing machine.  The part  was a genuine GE replacement part in the original GE packaging.  The cost was substantially lower than my local appliance parts store and the cheapest I could find on the Internet.  I saved at least $50 by ordering this part online from Amazon.\n\nThe mode shifter is an expensive part that requires nearly complete washer disassembly to replace.  If you are going to bother replacing the mode shifter, you should consider replacing all the parts along the drive train that might be worn out or corroded.  I was able to order the tub nut, split ring, and drive belt on Amazon.  A new tub seal is included with the mode shifter assembly (although this is not mentioned in the description).\n\nThere are several YouTube videos that clearly demonstrate how to disassemble and replace the mode shifter assembly.  It took me about 4 hours to do the repair, but I was stopping regularly to take pictures and videos to help me with the re-assembly.  None of the repair steps are really advanced, you just need to be methodical to not forget anything.\n\nThe one thing I recommend highly is that you buy the TB123A spanner wrench to help remove the tub nut.  This was a $12 part on Amazon, and it helps you cleanly remove the nut that holds the inner tub to the mode shifter assembly.  I used penetrating oil on the threads, and with a couple of very hard whacks on the spanner wrench, my hub nut was loose in about 1 minute.  The TB123A wrench so cleanly removed the hub nut, it allowed me to re-use the original nut and save $8 on a replacement.  This was totally worth the cost of the wrench.\n\nI was skeptical that I could buy appliance parts on Amazon, but this turned out to be a great experience.  I got everything I needed to fix my washer, and saved at least $300 on my repair.  Thank you Amazon and QuickShipParts.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2776, "id": 54644, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 405, "len_tokens": 484, "text": "This washer is pretty good for the price; I got mine at Home Depot for under $500.  Both it and the matching dryer are quirky, though, and you won't see that reflected in the carefully culled reviews posted on Home Depot's web site.  I'm accustomed to setting my washer and dryer to operate at bedtime and then waking up the next morning and folding the dry clothes and moving the washed clothes to the dryer.  However, in these appliances, they stay on until you manually turn them off, so they are still on in the morning--not a very energy-saving feature for an Energy Star appliance.  I didn't pay much attention to the fact that there is no console on top of these, but now that I have them installed in my very narrow little laundry room, that is a problem.  Every time you walk past them, they turn on because you're brushing the knobs.  If you lean down to put in or take out clothes, you inadvertently hit the knobs as well.  In addition, although there is a place in the pull-out detergent drawer for powdered or liquid detergent, fabric softener, and bleach, if you pour a granular product into the drawer from a box, it will be all over your floor because the drawer is narrow.  Instead, you need to carefully scoop it in.  I finally resorted to just throwing the powder into the machine, which I'm sure is not the best way to do it, but the powder never dissolves completely in the drawer anyway.\n\nI would say that the washer does a pretty good job of getting the clothes clean, but I'm not in love with it.  For the money, it will do until I can get a better one.  If you can afford a nicer machine without all the quirks, I would say get it.  The delivery men that brought my washer said they don't sell too many of these (I can see why); they told me that most customers are buying LGs.  My sister has an LG and loves it, but of course, her dryer alone cost more than both my washer and dryer together.\n\nIf all you want is a machine to wash things in and you really don't care about the convenience of using it, you'll probably like it.  I like it a lot better than I like the matching dryer, which has a lot of issues.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2777, "id": 148649, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 340, "len_tokens": 434, "text": "I spent hours researching my laundry options when I had to move to an apartment with no washer/dryer.  I finally decided on the Avanti W757 and after having it for 3 months feel I can give it an honest review.  I am very happy with my purchase.  We are a family of 3 that includes a 3 year old so dirty clothes pile up quickly.  Yes the washer is small but that's not a secret!  It IS a 12 lb capacity machine after all.\n\nPros:  It gets clothes very clean.  I would say it cleans as well or even better than traditional machines.  It has several programmable cycles including a default 2 rinse cycle (love that).  You can choose how much water to fill in the machine.  It's fairly quiet even without the noise suppressor thing on.  This machine is a little workhorse.  I use it probably every other day and it just rocks.\n\nCons:  If hooking up to a sink, it's hard to get a non leaky fit.  Not to worry though, it's easily remedied.  When attached to my faucet, there is a very thin spray of water that shoots out, very tiny.  I just throw a paper towel over the faucet and it contains it.  No biggie.\nThe wheels don't roll so well.  I wanted to be able to roll this across my kitchen floor but the wheels really stick so I end up just lifting the machine.  Luckily I'm pretty strong for a chick and the washer isn't too heavy.\nThe gentle cycle isn't so gentle.  I think the \"gentle\" cycle could be much gentler.  I won't put a lot of my delicates in there because it just sgitates too much for me.\n\nOkay, that about sums it up.  I will come back and edit if anything changes but if you are in a small place and need a washer I highly recommend this.  I took one star off for the stuff in my cons section but I'd probably give it 4.5 stars if I could.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2778, "id": 183138, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 363, "len_tokens": 423, "text": "Wow! I just cooked up some chicken the way I've dreamed of making it: small bite size pieces fried/steamed/ and crustied in a mix of oils: I used coconut, sesame and olive; and then a little bit of honey; and the juice of one lime.... This mixture never would fly in my electric fry pan - because of the many different heat levels I use.\n\nI put the chicken in the oils and cook until it turns white and I put the lid on the pan so it steams through.\n\nThen I add the honey and lime and throw in the lime skins for extra flavor, but then I turn up the heat really high to brown it; and then, here's the trick: I turn the heat off so it doesn't burn.\n\nWith the way induction heating goes, its really instant. Press the button and the heat goes up and down that quickly and it doesn't stay on the burner, just in the pan the food its being cooked in.\n\nNo more chopping and preparing while the meal is cooking--this is a quick way of cooking and everything needs to be ready to go, go, go!\n\nI thought the cooktop would be intimidating. But I just turn it on, go to power and click the plus and minus thing. I haven't had a need to use the timer yet. I noticed when I click -- actually its just a very light touch -- like on a smart phone -- I noticed the temperature scrolled through the various settings from warm to stir fry.\n\nIt cooks quick or slow, depending on what number you put it on. This morning I fried eggs. I like the centers firm and no wiggly white stuff. I put them on a high heat to get them going, and a lower heat to cook it the way I like... and they were perfect.\n\nThis is the best cooking investment I have made. I'm going to get a ''magnetic'' saucepan and possibly retired the microwave, if I find a sauce pan with a pour spout. With all the fuss going on today about microwave food, I think its about time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2779, "id": 111815, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 341, "len_tokens": 446, "text": "We brought a Maytag 4.5 cubic foot performance series front loader in September 2010 for just under $700.00  (MHWE400WW).  Family of 6.  By June 19, 2011, the machine was leaking and on June 22nd we were informed that it needed a major overall (retail parts $1,700) and 2 man 3 hour labor costs  (all for a machine that retailed for $700). [A&E Factor service man - told me that these front loaders all tend to fail between 1 and 2 years, and that we were lucky it failed during the warranty period - the bearings are defective on the machines and as they fail the machine falls apart with each spinning cycle.  He said he would not buy a front loader because of all of the problems he was fixed with these machines.]\n While its still under warranty, as of July 18th, we are still waiting for parts (5 weeks now).  The 2 $600.00 parts we have been waiting for are made in Germany and have been on container ships somewhere in the Atlantic Ocean).  While the last of the 8 parts is supposedly due to arrive at my house tomorrow by 4:30 p.m. (a full five weeks after been requested), A&E Factory service can't service it until a week from now.  Maytag's stance is repair only. There is no warranty for a timely repair, adjustment to the warranty time period for downtime, or reimbursement for laundromat cost.  Maytag and A&E do not coordinate.  While Maytag will supposedly forward a request for a performance review (i.e., get a replacement machine if no parts available within 10 days of their decision to expediate a parts request); they didn't abide by this 'policy' even though I was told by two Maytage supervisors that our claim had been forwarded to Maytag's Performance Review office. I will never buy another front loader or a machine from Maytag. I doubt this machine will last as long as my prior machines which had an average life of 7+ years.  Good Riddance.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2780, "id": 88275, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2781, "id": 88083, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2782, "id": 296814, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 326, "len_tokens": 407, "text": "I'm rating the older model XPB45. I've had it for 6 months and it still runs fine.\n\nMy family of 4 will soil a dozen towels during the week, so I take those to the laundromat. This machine does not do well with towels. I might fit 3 and they are heavy when they are soaking wet.\n\nMy large hamper holds 2 loads for this machine. When I have 3 hampers full of stuff that's gathered up for the week, I take it to the laundromat and get it done in an hour.\n\nThis spin-dryer causes a low rumble and intense vibration in the floor as it spins. I have this sitting on a foam work-mat and a nicer looking memory-foam mat as well, which I highly recommend.\n\nThe washer will start to smell after awhile, which I've finally figured out how to fix. The drain for the water is underneath the spin-dryer tub. It is easily nudged to the side so that I can pour some vinegar into the bottom of the machine. I do this after I'm done with the washer and the vinegar kills everything. Works great.\n\nThe drain hose split on me after a dozen loads or so, as I move the washer between the kitchen sink and an adjoining room. It is repairable with some laundry hose parts at the hardware store, but I had to get creative. I adapted a short garden hose to my kitchen sink as well with a quick-adapter. The short fill hose that comes with the machine slips off when I turn my back on it. All the extra hardware amounted to another $40 maybe.\n\nSo really it's a 3-star solution. If you love it, it's a 5-star machine. If you're not impressed and the hose splits on you, it's a 2-star machine. I live with someone who really soils laundry, which I would have to wash by hand. This machine is perfect for those loads.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2783, "id": 181846, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 357, "len_tokens": 424, "text": "I wouldn't suggest this to anyone, unless if you guys want to waste GAS. There is a design issue. The unit by itself looks very attractive with LED lights on the knobs, looks decent for the money. Writing this review after a month of use. I'm coming from an electric cooktop to GAS and we all know what to expect on which one cooks faster. Cooking on this one is really really slow when compared to electric.\n\nMy first issue with this one is having 5 burners in 30\". Wife wanted one, I knew already that 5 on 30\" is not going to help, having 5 burners on 36\" makes lot of sense. Space is damn packed and if you cook on the central one then you can't use the side due to space issue. So, if you guys are buying...just because you or your wife wanted 5 on 30\" then please drop the idea. Stick to 4 burners on  30\" and you can use more than one burner at a time.\n\nMy second issue which is a stupid design issue, I see a lot of gap between the bottom of the vessel and the flame and so its taking a lot of time to heat the stuff. On the side burners its taking more than 15 mts to get small pot of water to boiling temperature, worst than electric. The grates are heavy which is a good thing, but they are elevated high and so giving more space between the bottom of the vessel and to the flame and there by wasting more gas to heat the vessel and the food. I use to cook pasta for my kids in 20+ mts and now for the same amount of pasta this one is taking 35+ mts.\n\nI wouldn't recommend this to anyone after using it for one month. GE should fire the person who designed burner GRATES and the quality check team.\n\nUPDATE: Uploading the pics...Save your $$$ and invest in a nice product with good design. Look at the gap between the flame and the vessel and think of how much gas is getting wasted.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2784, "id": 449510, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 364, "len_tokens": 425, "text": "I bought an LG all-in-one combo unit because my residence has a venting problem and I needed a no-vent dryer.  I run 5 loads a week, and I can say it cleans well, but it has cost me well over $1500 in repairs over the past 11 years.  The water valve had to be replaced when it was 4 years old. The drain pump has failed 5 times (at the 3,6,8,10 and 11 year mark). I am careful to clean out pockets before clothes go into the wash, so this is not due to foreign object damage; this is simply a weak plastic part.  Each time it costs $250 to have a tech replace it.  I have tried to talk to LG about this but have been told they won't cover it.  Now the circuit board is failing and it is so expensive it is not worth replacing the part, so I will be replacing the entire machine with something else, not an LG.\n\nThere are also a couple of design flaws.  The detergent drawer builds up condensation that leaks down the front of the washer from the vent holes in the drawer.  Also, it leaks from the door seal, even though the tech said there is nothing wrong with the seal itself.  Both of these would be a problem for people who have wood floors in their laundry area.  You also need to clean the lint trap in the front of the machine at least monthly, but to open the trap door, you need to use a screwdriver to pry it open, which is more work than is really necessary and draining the water out of it is a messy job since it is so close to the floor.  Finally, water and lint build up in the folds of the rubber door seal and need to be cleaned out and dried after each use, otherwise you get mold growth.  This is hard to do because of the way the heavy rubber seal is designed and would be impossible for someone who had a physical disability in their hands.  They recently had a class action lawsuit on the mold issue.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2785, "id": 88091, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2786, "id": 126055, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 361, "len_tokens": 422, "text": "Yes- it has been only 3 days since I received this product but I already know how much I LOVE IT!  I have long lower back length, fine hair which has seen better days after years of bleaching and color treating my hair- I get a lot of knots and tangles. I'm the take a shower in the morning towel dry and head out the door kinda of person, so doing your hair in the morning is not something that is not part of my morning routine.  This is spin style has changed my ways this weekend.  It's super easy to use even for a novice- its like having your own personal stylist at your house giving you a blowout every morning!  The biggest learning curve was how to manage large quantity of long hair with coordination of the rotation brush but after 10 minutes right out the box it was using it like a pro.  I do recommend that for longer hair it is easier if your hair is damp to dry before you start using it.  I did try to use it right after towel drying (my normal M-F work routine) but it does take a bit longer.  And I also realized that even though the \"high\" setting on the styler is strong for damp to dry hair, it's not strong enough for wet to towel dry hair.  Half way through I had to stop to dry my hair first with my regular blow dryer before I continued on with the spin styler.  If you give yourself enough time in the morning and have the patience to just use the spin styler GREAT!  But I always prefer to hit the snooze button few times before I start getting ready.  Over this past weekend I had more downtime to play around with the spin styler, blow dry then spin styler.  All weekend long I got compliments on how great my hair looks.  It does had lots of volume (which I need), straightens out the hair, and add a slight curl on the bottom.  If you are a novice - or love salon blowouts I think this is a great alternative.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2787, "id": 88531, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2788, "id": 459107, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 345, "len_tokens": 451, "text": "I have a kitchen full of Miele products (induction stove, oven, steam oven and dishwasher)...all great except the induction stove (KM5773).  Since installation we have had the issue of the stove shutting off during operation.  At first it happened only occasionally (every month or so) and was of course inconvenient when cooking dinner.\nHowever, the frequency of this issue has increased dramatically; happening every few days a few months back and now happening every day.  \"Resetting the touch controls\" as outlined on page 18 of the User Guide usually worked (~70%) with a trip to the basement to flip the breaker usually working the rest of the time, so this was more of a nuisance than anything.  And my general thoughts at the time were that it's embarrassing for Miele to have designed such a high end stove top that costs $3000 be prone to a ridiculous DESIGN AND ENGINEERING FLAW.\nHowever, over the past several months we have had instances in which we could not even reset the stove...ruining meals, plans, experiences, etc. The capper was when my wife hired some chefs to come and cook for eight of us for a birthday celebration.  A night half ruined when only some of the dishes were already finished.\nI'm appalled by the reliability of this unit.  From the posts online, I'm of the mind that this is NOT isolated to just me and that Miele should consider a product recall...or at least a solution.\nI'm at wit's end with more ruinous experiences when I should be enjoying the not inexpensive equipment.\n\nNote -- Miele has a website with very positive reviews of their products...all suspiciously submitted on either September 5th or 6th of 2012.  I've submitted the above review twice to no avail.\n\nYou've been warned...caveat emptor\n\nUpdate 8/21/13 -- Miele wants ~$1100 for the replacement part.  Two things to note if you buy a KM5773...\nFirst, don't assume that you'll always be able to cook your meals...you may have the power control board fail mid-meal prep.\nSecond, definitely get an extended warranty.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2789, "id": 211494, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 348, "len_tokens": 434, "text": "I have to say I adore this lil guy. I haven't been this in love with something I've purchased in ages. Let me say I may be biased. I don't have a washer or dryer in my apartment, nor do I have a car. Doing laundry, for me , meant rolling a suitcase (thats right...a suitcase) half a mile to the laundromat, nothing close to a picnic so having this washer is a godsend. I'm not saying its a good fit for everyone. Some people may find the small load capacity irritating, but for me it works perfect.\n\n***UPDATE***\nWhile I will say that I far from hate this product, I will say that after 6 months or so of using it I'm not quite as enamored with it. For one thing, it's not very handy with linens/bedding. Sheets and throw blankets it can handle (mind you, you will only be able to wash ONE sheet or blanket at a time) but anything larger is a no. So no full size blankets regardless of weight and certainly not a comforter. Also, it seems to have trouble with heavier items of clothing i.e. hoodies, sweaters or jeans. Hoodies and sweaters usually need to be washed solo and jeans no more than 2 pairs at a time, otherwise I've noticed the load gets too heavy for the water to agitate properly and actually clean the clothing.  My biggest issue, which is probably going to effect a lot of people,  I have pets. The hair issue can be a nightmare. It's just something I really didn't think about when I bought it and something a fellow pet owner may not think of either. Standard washers and dryers (particularly dryers) will remove a great deal of pet hair...this will not. I'm not saying this is any fault of the product, it is after all a portable washer and can only do so much, just saying it's something to consider. Currently I shake out my clothes (outside) prior to washing and then lint roll them after they are finished air drying.  Not much fun.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2790, "id": 310751, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 394, "len_tokens": 483, "text": "I live in a small condo that does not have hookups for a washer.  I couldn't be happier with it.  If I had a bigger place with hookups I would defiantly get the conventional washer drier setup, but in their absence this a great solution.\n\nWashing: Does a great job of cleaning our clothes, does just as well as a typical washer.\n\nDrying:  If you keep in mind that it is smaller than a normal washer and size your loads accordingly, you will have no problems.  If you try to fill it to the brim, it probably will leave your clothes damp.  The one major flaw to this is it leaves you clothes WRINKLED.  I would suggest pulling your clothes out right when it finishes if you are worried about wrinkling.\n\nLoad Size: I would estimate that it can handle 2/3 what a normal washer can.\n\nCycle time:  It takes a little longer than a normal washer to wash the closes; it take 3-4 hours to dry them.  This is not a big deal for me since I just run it overnight and wake up to clean clothes.\n\nNoise:  Moderate noise, the spin is particularly loud.  However, it is no louder than a normal washer, and in general is about the same noise level as my dish washer.\n\nInterface:  Very slick and easy to use.  Has a little song to indicate it is finished, which beats the buzzer that is typical in a lot of other units.\n\nPlumbing:  It has the connections for a normal washer drier which I thought was weird, since it is sold to fit in small places that don't have hookups.  I expected to find an adapter kit so you could plumb it to your sink, but I couldn't find one.  I ended up getting some tee connections to split off the for the hot and cold connections under my kitchen sink and ran some long dishwasher hoses to it, picked up some adapters from the local hardware store that converted the dishwasher hose to the washer hose.  For the drain, I bought an extension hose and a  double air gap and ran it to my sink.  I have been using this set up for more than 6 months with no problems.  It runs on 120V so I plugged it right into my wall.\n\nDefinitely recommend this for small places.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2791, "id": 453762, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 326, "len_tokens": 411, "text": "Two services issues in 3 months.\n\nWe purchased this LG refrigerator at an undisclosed major retailer - not Amazon.  The first issue arose within a week of purchase.  The unit would not close properly.  The \"major retailer\" was pleasant but generally pointed to the LG 800# for assistance. Once we called the LG customer service number - they pointed us to a service center for assistance.  Once the service center tech reviewed the unit, we found out it needed a part that was back-ordered. In all, it was 2-3 weeks before it was resolved.  At this point, LG should have just issued us a new refrigerator.  LG didn't - such is life right?  Four weeks or so later....\n\nIssue #2.  The refrigerator stopped working.  Yep - no cooling or freezing at all.  Several freezer items thawed.  We called LG - again.  They sent us back to an authorized service center.  LG was not accountable for the inconvenience (lost time, spoiled food, etc). This being our second issue in three months, I would have expected some type of amends other than \"We're sorry\".  I am sure they were...Not as much as us.\n\nThis experience should make anyone question the value of an LG refrigerator - especially one that costs more than $1,500.\n\nOther LG products may be good, but the service that sits behind them is (based on this experience) poor. For the price of this refrigerator, I would expect a better level of service.\n\nNote:  LG has a policy that they will not give you a new refrigerator unless:\n\n1) A support tech considers the unit permanently flawed OR\n\n2) The unit has been repaired three times.\n\nWe're on our second repair now (again - in three months) - so perhaps we'll get lucky and it will fail for the 3rd time. At this rate, I expect to have a new unit eventually. Too bad LG couldn't have made things right at the start.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2792, "id": 504362, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 382, "len_tokens": 435, "text": "The 620 Washer-Dryer Combo is a great machine for those who are looking to save space on a very thigh home environment (apartment), who live or frequently use an RV, boat or mobile home. The machine is amazingly quiet, sturdy(which may become a problem- I'll explain) and very simple to use.\nLike most Equator Appliance units this machines has a knack for being dubbed the BMW of washer/dryers and that is for one particular reason and that is the fact that the machine really performs when maintained properly which can be a problem for those without a guide. The machine is really sturdy which in fact acts like a double edge sword both making it a better product and also a pain. The machine uses twenty to thirty pound weights to counterbalance loads inside to avoid unwanted vibrations and to keep the unit in place but this makes it incredibly difficult to move around, even with a dolly so have extra caution when placing this machine upstairs. The unit does have one major downside, its size, which is why I like to call it a \"Work Pony\". Now don't get me wrong the machine is not a flimsy tin box and has a very sturdy, flat, laminated particle board surface as a top cover which I like to use to fold, iron or just stack rather heavy items every now and then.\nOne thing to keep in mind is that the door handle has a timed lock which does not like to open while on cycle and will be released when the cycle is done or three minutes after you pressed the power button off otherwise you run the risk of jbreaking the door handle off.\n\nOverall the machine is great and will perform like a champ if a regular maintenance is kept.\nVery sturdy, means very heavy, the unit is heavier than cheaper machines twice its size, but its weight helps it keep it in place and reduce some unwanted vibrations.\nThe machine has a rather small load size capacity and will often take longer to dry because its a combo.\nIf you like the whole washer-dryer combo but are not a fan of the 620's size than I'd suggest you wait for the speculated Larger combo also from Equator.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2793, "id": 469966, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 356, "len_tokens": 422, "text": "Ye is it unfortunate that Amazon does not have a negative rating system.\n\nIt is fascinating that like all the other reviewers I too went and looked for a slightly higher end DW in 2011. We reviewed DW of every brand and the price we saw here along with the rating is what sold us.\n\nWe ran the DW for about 6 months when other circumstances caused it to not be utilized other than a drying rack for nearly 2 years. (No fault of the dishwasher).\n\nWhen we moved, we took the DW with us because I felt that I did not want to lose out on this unit after dumping over $600 on it in 2011. And it was an advertised special! (Now I know why.)\n\nLike everyone else, after I plugged in this unit into the new place, it worked ok at first.\n\nThen a leak.\n\nThen it didn't wash correctly.\n\nThen it started taking over 5 hours to do one load. Yes 5 HOURS!\n\nThen the upper rack wheel broke.\n\nThen the water pressure to the upper rack went down and the top dishes and cups were not getting washed.\n\nThen the detergent door failed to work properly. (At first we blamed the little detergent cubes we were buying.)  But liquid detergent didn't work either.\n\nThen it made a hideous noise like plastic flaps clinking inside.\n\nThen the smell hit. Not even like a burning plastic, but more like burning oil saturated sand.\n\nThen it worked only intermittently.\n\nThen it stopped all together.\n\nJust like everyone else, it stopped well after its warrantee expired. I am upset and disappointed that the Brandname Kitchenaid is associated with this junk. This unit is now headed to the trash yard. It is also sad that they charge $600 for something worth perhaps only $50. But most striking is the time frame, like everyone else I thought this thing would last years. But sadly were sold junk that dies after only two. I don't have the money to willy-nilly replace appliances whenever I wish.  Its back to hand washing and probably going to stay that way.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2794, "id": 313120, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 366, "len_tokens": 482, "text": "LG washer opened during wash and did thousands of dollars in water damage. LG refused to take responsibility for their product.\nAs of this time LG has still not compensated us for the water damage to our home caused when their washer door opened and flooded us.\nBeware of LG!  Do your research first and save yourself some trouble.\nWe purchased an LG Front loading washing machine that opened up during a wash cycle and LG is refusing to cover any of the damages to our home.  This is particularly egregious because LG is aware that if their front loading machines over fill with water that the door will pop open.  LG is knowingly selling front loading washers that will open if, for whatever reason, they get too full of water.  We thought the washer was great before it just opened up.\n\nMODEL NAME: WM2650HRA  SERIAL NUMBER: 306PNAJ6G432\nPURCHASE DATE: 4/20/2014 Retail price $1,099.00\n\nIt worked perfectly until 5/10/2014 when during a sanitation wash cycle the front door opened and poured water out causing over $3000 (supported by estimates from licensed contractors) of damage to our living space by ruining wall to wall carpet and some of the sub floor.\n\nOn 5/10/14 LG service representative admitted that too much water would open the door.\nOn 5/19/14 Mr. Blake also stated that too much water would cause the door to open.\nThis proves that LG was well aware of this feature of their front loading washing machines.\n\n5-20-2014 LG Call CNM140520553488 Representative Katie refused to provide smart diagnosis report from 5/10 incident and refused to provide her last name but transferred me to a supervisor.\n\n5-20-2014 Adrian ID7008 seemed surprised that two people at LG had admitted the defect regarding the door opening.\n\nOn 6/16/2014 our claim was denied by LG\n\nWe have filed a formal complaint against LG with the North Carolina Dept of Justice Consumer protection dept. which has been assigned file number 1408167  LG replied with a frivolous reply claming there was nothing wrong with the washing machine.\n\nComplaint case # 31032574 has now been filed with the Better Business Bureau. LG replied with a frivolous reply referring us back to\nMr. Blake.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2795, "id": 126663, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 345, "len_tokens": 435, "text": "After reading these reviews, I had to try this styling brush.  I have medium length, curly (in areas), over processed, fragile hair.  Let me first say, I bought a new curling iron about 2 months ago( to try to get the 'beachy' curls'.  This iron got hotter than my previous irons and was not ceramic coated and it SCORCHED the ends of my hair.  So after a trim and repeated massive conditioning, it's beginning to recover.  I saw this styling brush and thought if I could cut out curling irons and flat irons, it would be great for my hair.  After I got this styling tool, I couldn't wait to try it out.  The first time I used it, I did as suggested in the reviews and dried my hair about 90% with my regular blow dryer.  Then I finished it with the Infinity Pro.  Just as the previous reviews stated, it took some getting use to.  I'm fairly good with hair, but I hit the wrong direction repeatedly, got it tangled a few times, but I could see that with some practice, this could be the drying tool that could just what I needed and it was DEFINITELY easier than using the traditional blow dryer and round brush and less tiring on your arms.  I've used it about four times now and each time I use it, it gets easier and the results get better.  Everyone's hair is different, but I've found that my hair needs to be much more damp (than the recommended  90  % dry) in order to get the curls blown  from the roots out.  I'm very glad I purchased this item and would recommend to a friend.  Just be patient and work with it until you get used to the correct procedure for your hair type.  The brush is very large (2 full inches) and I don't see that it could work on short hair or very long hair.  If you are totally uncoordinated, this may not be the styling tool for you.  I'm very pleased with the Infinity Pro.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2796, "id": 245469, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 378, "len_tokens": 461, "text": "Before I bought this ice maker the process of getting clear, quality ice in my house was this...buy bottled water, then freeze to an almost solid state, then knead the bottles till the half frozen chunks were crushed, then empty the ice into a glass- usually having to cut the plastic tops off to get the ice out. Holy smokes, Batman...are you kidding me? Now after buying this ice maker I am enjoying the best quality clear ice with virtually no labor whatsoever...I still buy bottled water, yeah...to pour into this ice maker...turn it on and the work is done. I come back after an hour or so and empty the ice basket inside the unit into my refrigerator ice holder (I have a switch on our fridge that disables its ice making ability) which then gives me a convenient ice storage unit for my fresh clear ice and also lets me dispense the ice (cubed or crushed) through the ice dispenser on my fridge. Awesome, after about 3 hours of ice making I fill up the fridge and I am good to go for about 2-3 days under normal use. This unit is magic. The only complaint I have is the chrome unit is covered with a protective plastic sheeting when it arrived out of the box. This was a bit hard to remove as it was even applied UNDER the screws but after a casual 30 minutes of steady work I was able to remove the sheeting sufficiently. TIPS...let the unit get acclimated to your room temperature before plugging it up (normal procedure for any refrigerated device)...only use clear, clean water in the unit (what you put in is what you get out)...I buy 3-liter bottles at the grocery store for about $1.29 a bottle, Zephyrhills brand Spring water. 1 bottle yields about 20 or more trays of ice (I am estimating on this as I have not actually measured)....read the short user manual for additional tips and you will be enjoying clear, soft, slow-melting, delicious ice in no time. Some may wonder why I bought this since I have an ice maker in my refrigerator...short answer...while the fridges water dispenser is filtered the ice maker is not. Thanks for reading my review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2797, "id": 71144, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 326, "len_tokens": 411, "text": "We were surprised that when we purchased our new dryer our store (Lowe's) didn't offer this cord. We were also told that if we didn't purchase \"their\" new cord, at almost $25, that we would not get a warranty & we couldn't purchase an extended warranty (that is 100% illegal). So we purchased the only cord that they had, a Utilimaster made in china. Our new dryer suffered a catastrophic short that destroyed, melted, charred, the circuit panel. They \"warrantied\" everything (lie-they took it back), & brought the same exact dryer and the same exact cord. We returned everything for a full refund including the extended warranty. We then ordered this cord from Amazon and purchased another Whirlpool dryer from Menard's. I installed everything myself in about 15 minutes. This cord features a REAL WORKING anti vibration bracket with 2 fingers not 1. 1 finger doesn't do anything. Stores sell inferior cheaper cords as a huge % profit point. Please don't fall for it. I DO believe that purchasing a new cord with a new dryer is a good valid idea ! But never purchase or be forced to purchase an imported inferior cord from anybody. This could \"shorting\" could have grown into a fire and worse if I hadn't been standing there & able to unplug the dryer. Dryers only use a slow blow fuse in your panel so dryer fires can happen very easy. The fuse did not blow. By the way it is 100% illegal for any store to force ANY purchase to offer any warranty that is included or extended. This cord was actually priced LESS than the new power cords available at the stores. The Menard's, Lowe's, Sear's that I checked here locally in the Indy metro area only offered cheap imported inferior cords at a MUCH higher price. I checked Amazon, purchased this cord. It does not vibrate loosely at all ! ! Always purchase name brands! Thank you Whirlpool & Amazon ! !", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2798, "id": 88323, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2799, "id": 452313, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 327, "len_tokens": 403, "text": "For years, I've had the formula for long lasting humidifier filters without discoloration, mold, mildew, etc.  Ever since developing the routine I describe below, my filters have lasted a long time, even a whole season at times, and while stiffening after a long while, rarely discolor until after months of use, and only slightly.\n\nI use fresh water every night with a silver Protec drop in I change every month, empty the water vessel every morning and allow the fan to completely dry the filter and its well all day long before refilling at night.  I always bleach both the filter tray and container weekly before refilling.\n\nThis routine has kept all my filters clean, fresh and not discolored for years now.  Until I bought these. The first time I put one in, there was a horrid fish smell that lasted hours.  That should have been my first hint that these are not like all the non fish scented filters I've used before.\n\nNow, after only about a week of actual use (we've had some mild winter nights, so no humidification needed)I took the unit apart for its second cleaning since putting in the new filter and the whole bottom of it is deeply rust colored.  I don't have rusty water in my home, and nothing here ever gets rust stained, not sinks, tubs, clothing, etc.\n\nFurther, the way I know there's mold buildup is how itchy my eyes get and it goes away as soon as I bleach the unit out.  With the old filters, that has never happened before a week's time, but I've had to bleach the unit twice as often due to severe allergic reactions since using this filter.  Not only is it not anti microbial, it's apparently extremely efficient at growing mold.  Cleaning it stops the allergy symptoms.  These filters not only don't last long, they appear to be a very efficient medium for growing stuff that's harmful to your health.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2800, "id": 144732, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 371, "len_tokens": 412, "text": "I have lived in my house for over 12 years and never even thought about having this maintenance done. A house a few doors down from me had a dryer fire causing thousands of dollars of damage so of course it got me thinking. All of the houses on this row of my subdivision were all roughly built around the same time so chances are that I could use this done to my place. This kit worked wonders!\n\nI also wondered if the brand of my clothes dryer would relate to how much lint I would have in the vent line. I had a nice Maytag and then a nice Samsung so I should be in good shape, right? Nope...\n\nThe location of my dryer was about 6 feet from where it vents out of the house. I first tried just using a long stick to poke and scrape out the lint in the line. This did produce some results as I removed a handful or so of lint. Once I got this in the mail, I read the instructions and started using it. I did use a cordless drill and it had more than enough power. I did not use tape or anything on rods as I fed them in the wall. The instructions say to only set the drill to clockwise so that the rods don't come undone. I fed the tool into the wall a little at a time moving it back and forth a lot. Some drills that have a break might be causing the problem that some reviewers are having with the brush coming off the end. I have a DeWalt 18v cordless and I did not have this problem.\n\nAfter using this method and taking my time, I dislodged an entire regular sized plastic shopping bag of lint. It was ridiculous! Not only was this dangerous but I cannot imagine how much harder this was making my dryer work. I highly recommend using this and if you buy it, lend it to friends and family! I made it a mission that a simply prevented disaster doesn't befall any of the people that I know. At least the friends and family that can work a drill...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2801, "id": 88123, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2802, "id": 388032, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 357, "len_tokens": 452, "text": "I am a very good customer of Amazon Prime. My product reviews are positive and honest. In purchasing the Proline Range Hood, I read the reviews and considered the product to be worthy of the upper end price level for kitchen range fans. I considered the following sellers statements as truthful:\n1) \"ULTRA QUIET MOTOR OPERATION: Do not let the Four-Speed blower fool you - Despite its power, this is one of the quietest blowers in the industry for its size\".\n- WRONG...This fan is quite loud at all levels. The lowest \"Q\" stage is louder than the what we experienced with the multiple fan levels of Jenn Air range that we replaced. We are not happy at all with this feature. I admit the fan is powerful, but we need to turn the fan off (at any level) to relax and carry on a conversation.\n2) SUPER SLIM CONTOUR SAVES YOU SPACE; \"The PLJW 185 is one of the slimmest under cabinet range hoods available, offering a height of just 5 inches. This level of combined style and performance is simply unrivaled in the range hood industry\".\n- CORRECT...The unit is 5 inches high, but I do not consider that \"SLIM\" comparably to other units.\n3) COOL LIGHT CASCADES FROM THESE LED BULBS: \"You will love the light that is cast from these new 1.5 W GU10 LED. They are energy efficient, and bright enough to cover your whole range top\".\n- MISLEADING...The lights are not \"Bright\" and do not cover the complete cooking area. I wish they had a light control so they could be turned up at times.\n4) The filters are constructed well, but do not fit snuggly in the body of the fan and causes a rattling noise at times. I used some duck tape to secure them. One fell out on to our new glass range scratching the surface, but fortunately did not crack the glass.\nWe thought seriously about returning the item, but these problems did not surface until the unit was installed...So, the decision was to live with them.\nI would not place this item on my recommended list.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2803, "id": 71965, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 382, "len_tokens": 459, "text": "As others have attested to, this is a great product that will extend the life of your dishwasher racks - highly recommended.  Here are a some tips to add to what has already been suggested:\n\n-  Examine your racks carefully before starting and mark each spot that needs fixing.  I wrapped strips cut from Post-It Notes around those areas.  Don't bother if you have a large number of spots as some reported, but in my case I had only about fifteen.  I didn't want to miss any or forget to do them and have to go back a second time.  You'll probably discover more problem areas as you go, so fix them as you go.\n\n-  The instructions say to wipe off excess touch-up compound after pushing a tip over a rack tine.  Whatever for?!  That stuff is basically the same compound that they dip the racks in during manufacturing.  I had repaired my dishwasher racks with a similar kit (not the same one) about 5 or 6 years ago.  Two tips from that repair had failed and fallen off, and another looked like it was beginning to show signs of rust on its edge.  This time I applied extra compound around the edge of all the tips to ensure good seals.\n\n-  Because the compound dries extremely fast and the brush clogs up, just use the brush as an applicator of drops.  Brushing doesn't work well.  You can use the tip of the brush to help the compound flow a little while applying.  Some have reported that it likes to flow too fast initially.  I found that blowing on the touch-up compound immediately after applying it halted any flow.\n\n-  Also because of fast drying, I pressed a little plastic cup upside down on the top of the bottle as I worked.  I used one similar to those little cups found in fast food restaurants for dispensing ketchup or salsa.  The whole time I worked on my racks the bottle was covered except to get a drop of touch-up compound.  Only the very tip of the brush went into the bottle until I was all done.  After finishing I cleaned off the top of the bottle and screwed the cap down TIGHT.  I'm hoping it lasts for the next time! :)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2804, "id": 166337, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 327, "len_tokens": 429, "text": "If this is the part you need to get your ice maker or water dispenser up and running again, it's a cheap, quick and painless replacement, even if you've never worked on an appliane before.  I wish I had done a few basic tests before I took the time to replace mine; I'd have found the existing solenoid was working just fine.\n\nIn my case, I'd first installed a water hammer arrestor.  That installation got the ice maker up and running properly, but I still had problems with the water dispenser; it would dispense about an ounce of water before going dry.  I decided to replace this part second, as it was the least expensive to try.  I should have done the following instead:\n\n1. Remove the front kick plate and disconnect the water line from the quick connect that leads to the freezer door.  Plop that line into a bucket and activate the water dispenser.  How's the water flow?  If it's good and fast at that point, you probably have a frozen line in your freezer door.  Mine was still real bad at that point.  Reconnect everything.\n\n2. Disconnect the line from the solenoid and insert that line into a bucket.  Turn the water back on.  Fast?  Great, replace the solenoid.  Slow?  Keep looking!\n\n3. Remove the water filter from inside of the refrigerator and install the bypass plug.  Turn the water back on.  Fast?  Okay, replace the water filter.  Slow?  Keep at it!\n\n4. Disconnect the inlet line, put THAT line in a bucket, and turn the water on.  Slow? Replace the line running to the refrigerator, or you may have a larger plumbing issue.  Sorry to hear that.  Fast?  Great!  Replace the water filter assembly.\n\nUltimately, I had to replace my water filter assembly.  Had I done these tests before, instead of after, I replace the solenoid, I'd have saved the ten minutes I spent replacing it, plus the ten I just spent typing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2805, "id": 88579, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2806, "id": 166633, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 376, "len_tokens": 450, "text": "Thirteen years ago, our new house came with a decent but no-frills dishwasher - AKA - Builder quality. It worked for all those years but eventually, when we decided to go with all stainless steel appliances in the kitchen, we searched hard for a top quality replacement. Using several sources and with the assistance of an outstanding sales rep at our local Sears (Bob in Rockaway, NJ) we settled on this Bosch unit. While it is not the top Bosch model, it has many more features than our original and all we really need.\n\nThe two we are loving after a few months of hard use are the stainless steel tub and the whisper quiet operation. Seeing the gleaming stainless \"tub\" after a wash tells me that the dishes are really clean and sanitized. Also very important - Our old unit was so loud that you had to go into another room to use the phone. How quiet is the Bosch? So quiet that they have to provide a small red light projected on the floor (our cat loves it) to remind you that it's doing its thing. How cool is that?\n\nAs has been mentioned by another reviewer, the detergent used makes a significant difference. Bosch provided a sample of their recommended detergent (Finish tablets) and we have to agree - using our regular \"Cascade\" powder, there was a residue on the dishes. I suspect that I am using too much and will experiment to find the sweet spot because we have a near full box in the pantry.\n\nThis unit does a good job on pots and pans too. My wife doesn't mind scrubbing the pots but I hate that job and sneak them in whenever I can to get them done and put away. So far, every pot, pan, strainer, etc., has come out clean and caked-on-food free. Shhh! don't tell my wife.\n\nSummary - dishes come out clean every time - 2 stars. Pots and pans come out spotless - 1 star. As quiet as a churchyard at midnight - 2 stars. Total 5 stars...\n\nFor overall quality, value and performance, you will have to go a long way (and a pay a higher price) to beat this Bosch unit.\n\nHighly recommended.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2807, "id": 233745, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 355, "len_tokens": 418, "text": "I ordered this kit to repair my Maytag Neptune front load washer's bearings, which had recently gone bad and made a loud winding screechy noise.\nIt was somehow damaged by the outer-tub which had a crack. The leak allowed water escape and damage the bearings.\nI was able to take everything apart and patch the crack in the outer tub, replace the bearings(front and back), which I purchase through another vendor who had amazing price compared to the OEM parts. With a little force, it fit just fine. From what I've read, people installing the OEM parts would have had to do the same. Now the washer purrs like it should.\n\nMore on this package:\nThis seal goes inside the outer-tub, right after you install the front bearing(the bearing toward the front of the washer).\nPlease note, that both rear and front bearings used in my applications were two different size, check with what is compatible with yours..\nThis kit came with two large seals, as indicated in the picture, and a replacement nut & washers for your inner-tub and a small grease pack.(which you should apply to all the contact points to the bearings).\nAfter finishing the job, there were a few \"left over parts\", in my case it were the parts that were not compatible with my machine. So expect to have left parts from this kit. Instructions were very vague, definitely not a job for a novice like me, as I did spent hours trying to figure things out and A LOT of \"elbow grease\"(pun). lol Which is why I gave it minus one start for lack of details in the instructions. Make no mistake, this product did everything I needed to get the job done.\n\nFrom what I've read, seems a lot of Maytag & Whirlpool machine shares the same parts, so don't be mislead by the package description as this will fit certain Maytag Neptune washers, as it did for me. Check with your vendor if you aren't sure. I was able to find the parts I needed through Googling my model number.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2808, "id": 482089, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 339, "len_tokens": 411, "text": "This is a nice looking fridge....\n\nThe right side fridge compartment PROS:\n-has shelves that slide out for easier reach of back items\n-has one is retractable which is easy to slide back to make room for tall items\n-has all gallon size door bins\n-well lit interior\n-2 lower bins, 1 for fruit, 1 for veggies\n-shelves have clear fronts so you can see what's in there\n\nThe left side freezer compartment PROS:\n-large ice maker\n-two lower bins to help reduce things getting lost in the black holes\n-some door storage\n\nThe fridge CONS:\n-because there are gallon size bins in the door, the shelves are set back farther making it so you have to step in closer to reach the things on the interior shelves and because of the narrowness of the compartment, it feels somewhat like you hug the door. They seem to be something of an obstacle.\n-the depth without the width can make it more difficult to get to the things on the back of the shelves though the couple sliding ones help a little with that\n-the sides where there are grooves for the adjustable height shelving can be tedious to clean\n-not wide enough for some things, though 9x13 dishes will fit\n-the bins and shelves have clear fronts so you can see what's in them....(double-edge sword). If you have crumbs or a slight spillage, you'll see it.\n\nThe freezer CONS:\n-not wide enough for some items....pizza boxes would have to stood upright to fit with shelves adjusted right unless they are the smaller types\n-the shelves and bins are wire\n-much space given for the ice maker\n-difficult to get to items in the back and know what's in there without moving things on shelves, almost like a black hole\n\nAll-in-all, it's a great fridge for a side-by-side, but I much prefer the french door models over this style. I thought it would be nicer to organize....that is somewhat true in the fridge, but not in the freezer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2809, "id": 63552, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 329, "len_tokens": 499, "text": "HOW MANY\nYou probably need more than you think.  My dishwaster took about 120 tine caps.\n\nWHAT FOR\nThe most important reason to use the tine caps is to protect your dishes from scratches.  Sure, they also protect the tines from rust--but the ends of the tines are not where the important rust happens.\n\nINSTALLING\n> If you don't use glue, then soaking the caps in hot water makes it easier.\n> Even better, apply a little Household Goop&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Amazing-Goop-All-Purpose-Household-Goop-3-7-Ounce-Tube-130012/dp/B0000A605I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Amazing Goop All-Purpose Household Goop, 3.7-Ounce Tube #130012</a>&nbsp;to the tip of the tine, then slide the cap on---the fresh goop acts a lubricant and makes the caps easier to install; when it hardens, it holds the tips securely in place.\n\nGLUEING THEM ON\nIf you don't glue them in place when you install them, the first several times you run the dishwasher, you'll find one or two loose caps on the filter screen.  Check to see if any are half-off, if so push them back down. After about a week, they will tighten up on their own.\n\nOTHER RUST PREVENTION\nExamine your dishwasher basket frequently for signs of rust.  Apply dabs of Household Goop on the smallest rust spots as soon as you see them.\n\nCAUTION\nThere is a product called \"Uber GOOP\" which is optionally sold in kits with rack-tines.  I've purchased it (but not used it), and as far as I can tell, it's just enamel paint in a small container---it probably works fairly well if are very fastidious at getting at the very first signs of rust and/or prepare the surface  well---but I don't think that it is as effective as Household Goop, because a thin layer of paint it would not be as effective as a thick layer of cushioning glue in resisting the impact or rubbing of plates rattling around.\n\n> Click on Stoney just below the product title to see my other reviews, or leave a comment to ask a question.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2810, "id": 545972, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 391, "len_tokens": 475, "text": "I'm an older guy who always left handyman repairs up to whomever specialized in various areas.  Now that I'm retired I find myself interested in \"do it yourself\" projects.  Each one is learning by doing but I find it satisfying to figure out each problem and then solving it.  Whenever I face a new situation I always tell myself that thousands of other people have already accomplished the same task.  If they can do it so can I.\n\nWhen my wife complained about the combination light/fan in the guest bathroom being loud I had to 'snap to' and go take a look.  After all, many of my chores are \"honey do's\" and if I don't try to keep up the list just keeps growing.  So I went back to the \"loud\" fan and turned it on.  Kind of sounded like a damaged airplane taking off.  I took apart the apparatus, laying the various parts in order on the counter to make it easier to put it back together.  Everything appeared to be in good shape with the exception of the 20 year old fan motor.  After cross-referencing the motor on the internet I ordered the replacement from Amazon.\n\nThe new motor appeared to be an exact replacement for what I had taken down.  It also appeared well-made, alleviating my concern about some of the reviews written.  It fit into the support perfectly, plugged into the old electrical connection, and the outside shroud slid over the whole apparatus perfectly.  One flick of the switch turned on the fan and the other switch controlled the light.  Why they didn't incorporate both into one switch 20 years ago surprises me but I'm sure that they had a reason.\n\nSo another project is successfully completed to the satisfaction of my wife.  The fan is a bit loud but considering how old the technology is I was also satisfied.  I'm not to the point yet of modifying/updating anything that I repair but that will probably come along.  Right now I'm making my bones just trying to diagnose and repair the existing problem.  The internet is a huge help, there are good videos on YouTube, and calling the company is a great way to confirm your research.  Being able to do these simple projects is somehow very satisfying to me.  It's never as hard as it looks.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2811, "id": 88283, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2812, "id": 172752, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 335, "len_tokens": 418, "text": "I am normally one that just calls someone to repair my appliances, or I go out and purchases a new appliance when one fails.  My Whirlpool Cabrio HE washing machine that was a little over 4 years old died on me.  With 3 kids, this washing machine is used daily.  My first reaction was to rush out an buy another one.  However, some logic seeped into my thoughts, and I wondered why I was so quick to go and dump another $1K on a washer that lasted 4 years.  Was $250 a year for a washing machine worth it?  I decided to go and read the product forums on the manufacturer site and found that water pump was the culprit with my problems.  A friend of mine asked why I didn't just fix it myself?  I can remodel a room, run electrical, and fix plumbing, but I have never been comfortable with the concept of appliance repair.\n\nI got the part number from the manufacture's website, and came to my trusty website - Amazon.  The king of all online consumer shopping.  I had no expectation of finding what I needed, but since I go to Amazon several times a day, I thought I would try.  Not only did they have it, but they had it 50% cheaper than buying it from the manufacturer.  I ordered it, and had it in my hand the next day (awesome Amazon shipping!!!).  I even went to YouTube and found a video tutorial on how exactly to replace the pump.  I grabbed my 3 needed hand-tools, drug the washer onto the porch, and had the pump replaced in less than 20 minutes.  It worked like a champ!\n\nAll in all, I spent about $50 on the pump and 1 hour of my time total.  Had I called a local repair man, I would have spent substantially more.  This replacement pump has been running hard and solid for 2-1/2 months.  I can't brag anymore on how good this experience was!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2813, "id": 65874, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 351, "len_tokens": 430, "text": "Bought this device a few months back and finally got around to using it (my wife made me).  We have flexible aluminum venting attached to our dryer running about 8 feet in length.  It was a long way from being plugged, but the dust bunnies were a tad bigger than I thought they would be.  Mostly, I wanted to clean it to reduce the potential fire hazard.  There was definitely enough lint in the vent to create a fire that would move all the way through the vent.\n\nWe have those louvered vinyl vents outside that refuse to come off, so running the auger brush from the outside was not possible.  It wouldn't fit through the louvers.  The long brush would fit through the louvers but it wouldn't make the 90 degree turn down to the basement.  So, we just disconnected the vent from both ends and laid it out on the floor.  We hooked the shop vac up to the adapter and twisted the auger brush through by hand several times while suctioning.  That didn't cut it in that a lot of lint was left inside.  I used the provided drill adapter and ran it in and out twice with my cordless drill.  Big difference.  That hummer was pretty dang clean and the filter on our shop vac was completely covered with lint.\n\nWe vacuumed out the vent at the back of the dryer.  I then used the long brush by hand and shoved it in and out of the lint trap while running the shop vac.  The brush went in quite a distance and pulled out some good size wads of lint.  Obviously, the lint trap doesn't \"trap\" very well.  Some caution is in order when doing this.  I had to keep twisting the flexible rod clockwise while working in the lint trap.  The brush kept trying to work itself loose, and I didn't feel like disassembling the dryer to get the brush out.\n\nSeveral minutes later (along with some mumbled cursing), I got the vent reattached and we were good to go.  Glad I bought this device.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2814, "id": 485121, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 422, "len_tokens": 481, "text": "I love this refridgerator. I really wanted to give it 5 stars, but some minor issues forced me to give it 4 stars.\n\nIt looks beautiful and was very easy to install. Like most stainless steel(SS) refridgerators, only the front is SS. The sides are gray. Have you ever noticed most people don't have magnets on their SS appliances? I learned the hard way that magnets easily scratch the surface.\n\nMy favorite part of the fridge is the filtered water. The water and ice cubes taste great! Ice cubes in my last fridge had a funny taste. I have replaced the filter once, when the built in indicator told me to, and it was very easy to access inside the top right of the fridge. This brings me to my first complaint. After replacing the filter, the water dispenser started making a slight screaching noise when dispensing water. Fortunately, it went away after about a month. Perhaps it was a little air in the line.\n\nMy second complaint is a bigger deal. The handle on the bottom freezer has come off into my hand at least 5 times. I tried firmly clicking it into place with a good amount of force when replacing it, but it still came off. I took the handle locking mechanisms apart and switched it with the mechanisms from one of the french door handles. The french door handle is secured by pushing down, so I figured this door would be hard to pull off, even if the locking system was not working perfectly. I have had no problems with either door since making the switch.\n\nMy last fridge had one big door and was located in a high traffic area. The french drawers of this fridge do not block the passage from my kitchen to my family room like my previous fridge. Also, I wasn't sure if I would like the middle drawer, but have found vegetables in this drawer last longer then my previous fridge's vegetable containers. My previous fridge did not have the water and ice dispenser. I find myself drinking a lot more water since the dispenser is so easy to use and the water tastes so good.\n\nI highly recommend this fridge and really wanted to give it 5 stars. The handle flying off in my hand and the minor problems with the water dispenser forced me to mark it down. If I didn't have to come up with my own fix for the handle, I would of given it 5 stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2815, "id": 531003, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 351, "len_tokens": 420, "text": "Three drain pumps later, and a horrible knocking/screeching sound everytime it spins or turns the basket, along with 5 service visits in the four months I've owned this washer, and I'm stuck with a \"brand new\" washer that sounds like it's about to tear itself apart, along with scratches to my tile floor, dings in my walls, and scrapes and broken plastic tabs and a broken cabinet spacer from the negligence of the technicians Whirlpool decides to contract. I've been on the phone numerous times, begging for the machine to just be replaced as it's not been at all just right since having it, and with my experience with Oasis/Cabrio/Bravos machines I know that the things this machine has been doing are NOT at all normal, yet they still refuse to come to an agreement with me. I'm not asking for a refund or anything of the sort. I love the way the washer performs, and if not for this experience, my rating would be five stars. All I want is for the good money I spent on this machine to not be wasted on something that I had such faith in as a Whirlpool product, that in four months has become the worst nightmare I've ever experienced. The parts ordered by the tech today have absolutely nothing to do with the sound it's making, as he took them all off and the sound was still in the driveshaft, and yet the parts won't be in for at least a few weeks, up to a couple of months. In the meantime, I was told that there is nothing they can do, that I just have to deal with a defective machine, and that an exchange \"just isn't possible\". Every appliance installed in my house when built two years ago is made by Whirlpool under either their own name or the Maytag or KitchenAid name, and because of the line of work I'm in, every appliance I recommend to my friends and family and customers is a Whirlpool product, but after this experience, my faith in this company has been entirely destroyed.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2816, "id": 285758, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 423, "len_tokens": 487, "text": "Had a Dishwasher and Microwave go out on me over the holidays. I seem to be burning out dishwashers at an alarming rate, the computer goes bad or motor goes out, leaks, not having good luck. So getting away from Kitchen Aid and Whirlpool and seeing the problems the new Samsung was having (people pushing chairs up against the door to keep it closed) I decided to go with this dishwasher as it was rated number one on some testing something on another site. They glorified the thing as god's gift to the dishwasher community, so okay. Ordered from Lowes, took it home and installed it. The inside is a little smaller than my last Kitchen Aid so that takes some getting used to as I like to stick car size things inside, huge pots for making spaghetti for 20 people like five gallon stuff, doesn't fit. Regular home, will not have a problem with this dishwasher, I over do it. It cleans better than any of the dishwashers I have had in the past. zed Glasses come out cleaner or more clear, well everything you can see it, I am surprised. Drying kinda sucks. I had turned off my water softener to fill fish tanks and if you use hard water, it does not dry the dishes very well. Turned on the softener, use Jet Dry and it does okay sometimes I got to shake a few things to get them dry when I take it out. The controls is something else I don't like. Press the start button and nothing indicates you made it happen. However if you put your ear to it, it makes a little beep beep sound, very faint. Then you close it and does a little faint song as to say its going and you know its going. For the amount of money I paid for this dishwasher and how well it cleans, I am willing to overlook the small things and I don't mind drying one or two things by hand, but others might see it differently. I like it and its doing good, so 5 stars. One more thing, I do BBQ and no other dishwasher can get some of the meat pans clean. I usually wash them in the dishwasher just to make it easier to do it by hand. This dishwasher actually cleans the pans first time out. Makes me wonder how long my dishes are going to last getting blasted clean like that, but I like the less work that is involved.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2817, "id": 260521, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 320, "len_tokens": 400, "text": "I searched EVERYWHERE for a beautiful, well made range hood that didn't cost a fortune. Let's be honest, I'm not a professional chef. I'm a person who loves to cook and is redoing my kitchen. Do I really need a super-expensive hood? No. So when I found this one I was astonished at the price, sure it had to be a joke. But research showed great reviews for Z Line's hoods so I decided it was The One. Plus, when I emailed Z Line asking about a chimney extension, the customer services was incredible. Fast and they even gave me a deal because the extension for the hood I initially wanted wasn't in stock. I knew that if there was a problem with the hood, Z Line would make it right. So I ordered.\n\nA few days ago, my husband and our contract mounted the hood. Our contractor supported it behind the dry wall (after which we tiled) with a 2x6 because it is HEAVY. I wouldn't say it was \"easy\" to hang because it ended up taking a while, but the end result is fantastic. Our contractor, who used to work for a reputable kitchen and bath company, said it is the nicest (moderately priced) hood he's ever seen. We had to cut down the chimney extension a bit because it was too tall, which required a special saw blade, but that will always be an issue when you have 10 foot ceilings. We did not vent the hood outside, we are just using the recirculating option. It can be converted down the road, but we'll probably never go to the trouble.\n\nWe LOVE the lighting and the noise level is just what I'd expect. I haven't really tested it's capabilities as I don't typically cook high-smoking or smelly food, but since it's mostly for looks, I'm 100% happy with it already. It's the perfect touch our kitchen needed!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2818, "id": 12073, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 347, "len_tokens": 400, "text": "This dishwasher has been amazing!  I haven't had my own dishwasher for about 5 years and this one seems to work just as well as the full size ones I remember.  It gets my dishes cleaner than I ever did washing by hand.  It doesn't have a true drying cycle but it gets dishes hot enough that I'll leave it open when it's done and the dishes dry themselves.\n\nThe biggest problem I ran into had more to do with the age of my kitchen sink than the dishwasher itself and it was something I never considered before buying.  When I went to screw the adapter onto my kitchen faucet I discovered the adapter was too large and wouldn't fit on the faucet at all.  I figured its time to get a new faucet anyway.  Once I discovered I need a 2 hole faucet with 6\" centers, meaning the sink has 2 holes that are 6 inches apart for the hot and cold water pipes to hook up to, I made my way to Home Depot.  At Home Depot I could not find one 2 hole faucet with 6\" centers so I tried a few other 1 and 2 hole faucets and either they wouldn't fit the sink, or if they fit the sink, the adapter wouldn't fit.  Then I started to look online.  Finally, I found ACE Hardware carried just one faucet that would fit my sink AND the adapter fits.\n\nIt does take up a lot of space and it needs to be close to the sink so that should be a consideration before buying.  I thought I would try putting it on a cart but the dishwasher it pretty heavy when its empty and the carts I looked at that I felt would hold the weight when full cost about as much as the dishwasher.  If you need a mobile dishwasher get one with wheels.  You'll probably save money and get a bigger device.\n\nI am very pleased with this purchase and it is worth the small price for all the work it does.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2819, "id": 125949, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 386, "len_tokens": 430, "text": "This is the first and only rotating brush I've owned. I love what it does for my hair, makes it less frizzy and gives a nice big soft curl (I have fairly long hair, between my shoulders and waist), and it's perfect for me since I have a really hard time using a brush and a blow dryer at the same time with any kind of skill. You have to dry your hair pretty much all the way before using this, so I use a blow dryer to get it as dry as possible and then I go through in chunks with this and work around my head. It ends up completely de-frizzing my hair and making it look much smoother than it does with just the blow dryer, it makes it look pretty great. I only have two complaints. First is that the rotating function after about half a year started going on the fritz. I think I figured out the cause, which is that hair gets caught in the gap between the spinning barrel and handle and makes it rotate slower and almost stop. I tried to get all the hair off and make sure there was no hair in the space under the barrel and it seems to be working fine again. I'm not sure if that's why, it was weird because it would slow way down to almost stopping and then if I pulled my hair with it it would start going faster again, it would basically change speeds almost randomly, but it hasn't done it at all in at least a few months (I've owned it for over a year at this point). Hopefully the spin function keeps going for a few years at least if I keep the brush and barrel clean. My only other drawback is just that I wish it had one more higher setting for the air to blow out a little faster, only because I'm impatient and have really thick hair. Overall I'm very happy with it, I just can't compare with any other rotating brush dryers since it's the only one I've used, but I would definitely still recommend it, it was a great investment and if it lasts a few more years I'd definitely buy another one if it gives out at all.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2820, "id": 63589, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 350, "len_tokens": 422, "text": "This is the second time I've used this product on our Maytag dishwasher.  With vinyl-coated steel racks it is inevitable that they will rust.  That means you have two options: wait until they disintegrate and buy new racks or a whole new dishwasher (both are $$$), or do something about it.  Two years ago I used this product and it worked well.  At that time I didn't go crazy doing prep and that's one reason why I had to revisit some of the same areas again this time.  In the current application, I spent a good amount of time (probably too much) prepping the racks.  I cut back the original coating to expose all the rust, sanded the rust off where I could, and used a rust inhibitor on the metal.  I let the racks thoroughly dry (24 hours) from the inhibitor so there was no moisture trapped.  Finally, I applied two-plus coats of this liquid vinyl to the affected areas working hard to make sure they were completely sealed and thick enough to protect.  I had the \"caps\" from one of this vendor's other kits left over from last time.  When appropriate I cut the end off the cap and slide it over the raw metal post to give some extra protection (then coat it with the liquid).  I purchased two bottles of the vinyl and had plenty to give a good coating to about 10 spots (some small some large).  I definitely recommend buying an extra bottle for the small incremental cost because you don't want to skimp on your coverage.  My experience is that this stuff also remains viable for a couple of years if you make sure the bottle is closed well and keep it at room temperature.  The two year old \"left over\" stuff I had was not as fluid as the new, but it does the job over time for any \"touch ups\".  Note: Make sure you wear gloves because this stuff sticks to your hands (and everything else) and work in a WELL VENTILATED AREA because of the fumes.  Have fun!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2821, "id": 352529, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 409, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "I was purchasing at least three 20 lb bags of ice from the supermarket a week at $3.50 each. i was finding foreign matter in the ice that was very concerning to me. Several bags contained pieces of the plastic which appeared to have been cut up from other bags and ended up in with the ice. I called the company to complain and was told someone would call me back. That never happened. the last straw was finding some sort of mysterious pink stuff embedded into the ice. this was clearly a question of health concerns now. i realize buying ice from a place i could not see was a big gamble.\n\nnow my review - my wife bought me one of these and it changed my life. I use filtered water and the ice is always nice and soft. i consume ice like mad. i love chewing on the ice which can hurt your teeth. Now I'm in ice heaven. Nice and soft ice which cannot possibly hurt the teeth like store bought ice. I thank my wife every day as this gift turned out to be the best gift I was ever given. the ice is made so fast I can't keep up!! i bought a perfect container to fill up and i run it for one day and it gives me enough ice for two to three day. If you cant get to the catch bin to empty it, the ice starts to melt and simply recycles. the sensor stops the machine when ever the bin gets to the top. This ice machine has already saved me from buying over 20 bags so far. If your situation sounds like mine, you have never spent money on anything better. For the price, it will pay for itself in just a few months. Not to mention having to carry those heavy bags up some long steps into the house. I don't miss that one bit!! The ice gets rock hard in the freezer but after you pour water into the glass, and it sits for a few minutes, the ice becomes pleasingly soft and acceptable.\n\nCons - Really nothing negative to say. Some folks think the catch bin should be cold to keep the ice from melting but that is solved if you tend to it while it is running. It's really no big deal for me to just collect and freeze as production is taking place.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2822, "id": 194406, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 415, "len_tokens": 484, "text": "I am concerned about the \"improved\" metal bushings on this part. I had a hard time getting the old all plastic coupling off of the transmission. Unlike some of the other models. my machine (an older Kitchenaid) had very little access to the sides and back of the old coupler - there is no way in my machine to get behind it with a screwdriver or hammer claw because the coupler is mostly surrounded by the cast iron housing of the transmission.  Even removing the faceplate of the transmission would not have helped.  Finally I hit upon the idea of slipping a piece of string behind the coupler and pulling it off the shaft - this worked great for the old all plastic part. But in order to get the new part down flush with the end of the shaft I had to (as the online videos suggest) drive it down by tapping it with the back of a screwdriver being hit by a hammer.  So now it is on the shaft very snug metal on metal.  I hope it doesn't break again because I have no idea how I could ever pull this off the shaft again - I doubt the string trick will work for something that was driven on with a hammer.  Ironically the old part in my machine failed by breaking off the prongs (all but 1) and not at the center.  It would have actually made it easier to remove from the shaft if the old part had failed at the center hole but in fact the connection to the shaft remained perfectly intact , so the bushing was not a failure point (in my machine) to begin with.  I understand that there are still all plastic couplers available - you may want to look for those so that your machine remains fixable in the future.\n\nYou can argue that the metal bushings may make the part less likely to NEED a repair again but every part (even the new improved version with bushing)  is going to fail eventually and you want something that is fixable when it fails.  This part is MADE to break.  It's made out of soft plastic not because Whirlpool is cheap (though they are) but in order to function as a sacrificial part - better to shred a $5 coupler than burn out a $100+ motor.  If your machine breaks again shortly after installing this part, you need to investigate what is causing the excessive load.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2823, "id": 458105, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 376, "len_tokens": 465, "text": "We bought this washer and dryer about one month ago; my husband and I both work full time and we have a 15 month old - so I've done A LOT of laundry.  They both work great and I'm very happy with the purchase!  First of all they look fantastic, I know who cares what they look like they stay in the utility room and it's not like we invite company down there but they are just so lovely it actually motivates you to keep the whole room looking good.  In addition, the pedestals (which are optional) give you room to store the detergent, fabric softener, bleach and more it's nice to have them put away and out of sight.\nThe washer has several automatic cycles: Delicate, Normal/Casual, Bulky itmes, Whitest Whites (those are the ones I've used) the whitest whites cycle is amazing, really.  I've done most of my wash on Normal and it takes about 40 minutes for a large load to be done.  And then, there's the dryer...completely dry in about 30.  What a time saver!\nSome reviewers complained about vibration in the spin cycle, but during install we made sure everything was level and haven't had a problem.  We almost didn't buy the front loader because of the \"moldy smell\" problem some reviewers complained about...i've not experienced any of that and in an effort to negate any problem I've been running the clean washer cycle once a week - just a cap of bleach.\nThe steam option is wonderful - my son had been sick with the stomach flu and not to be graphic but we had a lot of vomity clothes; I ran everything through with the sanitize option didn't have a single stain, not even the red gatorade.\nI've used the steam on the dryer to take the wrinkles out of a sweater and it worked beautifully in 15 minutes. The dryer has a damp dry signal that is helpful with bulky items...you can just toss them around and they dry a bit quicker.\nAs an aside, the Tuscan Chestnut color is being discontinued - if you can find a set they are being deeply discounted.  In short, I really love both the washer and dryer.  Hope this is helpful!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2824, "id": 282882, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 356, "len_tokens": 440, "text": "This lasted through 1-1/2 years of steady, frequent use before it died.  While it worked, I loved it!  I like to chew ice and don't want to damage my teeth.  This ice maker has two sizes - Medium and Large.  It calls the two sizes Small and Large, but there's not much difference between them and the \"small\" is too big.  When this died, I replaced this model - ICE101 - with the larger Igloo ICE103.  The ICE103 has three sizes, so I hoped that the 'small' would be smaller, but I learned that those three sizes are really Large, X-Large and XX-Large.  What it calls \"small\" is the size of the Large for ICE101.  In other words, if you pay more, you get more sizes yet even less choice than before!  The ICE103 is larger, which would help if you want more capacity, but it takes more space, and I regret buying it.  I wish I had simply bought another ICE101 as a replacement.\n\nWhat broke after a year and a half was apparently the electronics - no matter how many times I reset it, it kept flashing first that it was out of water and then that it was full of ice.  Neither of those was true, but it kept going back and forth.\n\nEarlier, I had thought it was broken because it said that it was full of ice even when it wasn't, but I checked other reviews here and learned that this sometimes happens if the ice basket isn't down all the way.  This was a pain - it sometimes decided this even though I had not moved the ice basket. since the day before.  I eventually learned that it helped to splash some water around the edges of the basket.  I don't know if the water helped the basket slip down further, or if it just got the sensors wet, but it helped.\n\nOverall, I would buy this again, and wish I had repurchased it rather than replacing it with the larger ICE103.  The cubes were great for chewing - I just wish that the small setting was a bit smaller.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2825, "id": 177652, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 392, "len_tokens": 481, "text": "After attempting to research dishwashers to replace our broken one - I was more confused than ever, if that is even possible!  Each web site contradicted the previous one.  I realized that most happy people do not bother to write reviews, so thought I would write to share our happy review of this one.\n\nI would describe our decision process as a crap shoot.  We did not want to spend $900 on a dishwasher, but did not want a piece of junk either.  Don't get me wrong, I would love to have one of those elegant designer dishwashers, but not at the cost of my first born. (maybe I should reconsider that - ha ha).  Anyway, based on a Consumer Reports rating, we were looking at a few dishwashers, Whirlpool Gold being one of them.  This is not the exact model they were rating (not avail at our location), but close enough for us. Over all, we felt this was a safe bet because our last dishwasher was a Whirlpool and it lasted 17 years before it finally bit it and went to dishwasher heaven.  This one was in stock at our local home store and we could install right away. Others we would have to order and wait 7-28 days depending on machine.\n\nOne of our requirements was that the machine was quiet.  This one is advertised at 55 db.  I can safely tell you, as I sit 5 feet from the running machine, that it is pretty quiet!  I can hear it but it is a low hum.  Not completely silent, but very quiet.  Absolutely acceptable in our open living area.\n\nIt seems to clean very very well.  It was 4 days between the old one breaking and the new installation and those dishes were ick.  Dried on egg, cheese, and cake mix among other things.  They came out beautifully.  I could not ask for better in the cleaning department. I do not rinse the dishes before they get washed, just scrape off the scraps and throw them in, they were pretty dirty.\n\nInstallation went pretty well, took a couple of hours to get out the old and have the new completely hooked up.\n\nOverall, we are happy with this machine so far. Clean dishes and pretty quiet, our 2 big requirements. If anything pops up, I will update.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2826, "id": 478005, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 340, "len_tokens": 404, "text": "I didn't purchase this dishwasher on Amazon; I bought it elsewhere. Hopefully that doesn't discount my review at all.\n\nThat said, we're really happy with our dishwasher. We did all of the research on Consumer Reports and read all of the consumer reviews from retail places like Amazon and Best Buy. The best thing to do is to just find one with the features you want and hope for the best. That's what we did and it worked out nicely. The consumer reviews are pretty polarizing: \"1 star this thing is terrible and noisy!\" or \"5 star awesome unit!\" Rarely do people actually go into good detail with it (except with KitchenAid's and their broken racks).\n\nThat said, here's why we bought ours. It has a self cleaning food grinder. We plan on renting our place out rather than selling after we leave, so things like a food disposal are more tenant friendly. None of the Euro brands have a food disposal so keep that in mind when your friends brag about how quiet their unit is. It means that they have to clean a waste filter by hand. No thanks.\n\nThis dishwasher also has nice features like steam clean, heated water, sanitizing confirmation, etc. Our water is already pretty hot so the only one we use on a regular basis is sanitize. I'd say it works really well, but honestly I have no idea if it's working. Steam clean works, but we rarely use it unless we're lazy (or tipsy) when doing the dishes. Overall it's quiet so that's a nice plus. The water pump in this unit is really good and that's honestly the loudest thing in the cycle. Not the pump itself, but the sound of the water dumping into your disposal or p-trap. Nothing GE can do about that though.\n\nThe blower for the top rack is nice and gets all the glasses completely dry. The only exception is plastic cups. Nothing gets plastic cups dry.\n\nOverall, a nice dishwasher that we'd recommend.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2827, "id": 346488, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 351, "len_tokens": 402, "text": "I bought this washer to wash items that I could not get clean in my front load washer. The problem with front load washers is that you can not soak clothes that need extra cleaning.  I was able to get four tee shirts in the washer for my first load.  I tried the normal wash setting and found that the washer really whipped the shirts around.  With the four shirts, the washer splashed a lot of water, but once the water got down a bit more it stopped splashing.  I put fewer items in the washer with a lower water level for the next load.  This resulted in a lot less splashing.  I would recommend setting the washer somewhere where this splashed water would not cause a problem.  I used the gentle cycle on the second load but found that even on this setting the clothes really moved around a lot.  This washer really does have a strong motor. The handle on the removable washing tub is not too sturdy, so I would recommend putting your hand under the tub when removing the tub from the washer base.  I just used the handle to keep the tub from tipping over while I was moving it.  A tub with both clothes and water in it can get heavier than a lot of plastic handles can take.  I was quite happy with how clean the washer got my clothes.  It is somewhat of a pain to have to hand wring out the clothes after washing, but I wanted the washer to get out stains and that I accomplished.  The combination of soaking (with stain removers in the water) and the heavy duty washing really did the job.\n\nI would not recommend this unit for use with delicate fabrics as the motor is probably too strong for items like that.  I do not know how long the washer tub will last with this strong motor, but so far I am happy with this washer. If, like me, you want to show some stubborn dirty clothes who's the boss, this is the washer for you!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2828, "id": 61658, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 358, "len_tokens": 434, "text": "VERY SENSITIVE\nThis is a nice little device and is very sensitive, to any variation in temperature and humidity. In fact moving it from one spot to the other, it will show the variation.  Picking up and holding it will show variation.\nWe tested it against our other devices and to be honest, I would rely on this gauges information over the other.\n\nHIGHS AND LOWS RECORDED\nI like the fact that it records high and low of both temperature and humidity, so you can see if your HVAC system is up to snuff.  I have a whole house humidifier that this device helps me know if it is working well or not.  In the winter it can get really dry and this gauge reminded me to turn the system on for the season.\n\nCANT SWITCH MEASUREMENTS, TO SHOW TEMP LARGER\nWhat I thought was odd for a digital device was that you could not switch which measurement was emphasized.  This gauge shows Humidity in a larger font than Temperature.  I thought it would be nice to be able to swap which one was larger.\n\nNEVER USED THE ALARMS\nIve never used the alarms, as I did not have a reason to. Did not want to accidentally have them go off when I was not here and drive my cats nuts just to test them.\n\nMAGNETS ARE NICE AND STRONG\nThe magnets on the back are powerful and easily hold on a textured refrigerator, so a nice flat metal surface would be even better (tried it on my dishwasher and it snapped right to it).  The magnet on the bottom also holds it to the plastic base.\n\nDISPLAY VISIBILITY\nRegarding visibility of the display, it is not as bright as the photos unless your room is well lit. It relies on ambient light for visibility and does not have a backlight.\n\nUSES REGULAR BATTERIES\nThis uses 2 AAA batteries so you can easily get them.\nPut these batteries in, in November and still going strong 4 months later.  But I would expect that, these should last at least a year with this type of low power display.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2829, "id": 40646, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 403, "len_tokens": 492, "text": "I purchased this unit to replace an older Broan range hood that is ducted vertically to my roof.  I contacted Broan customer service a few times via email with some questions.  They were responsive and very helpful.  This unit comes with installation instructions, but I found a few more helpful tips in customer reviews and other install instructions for similar range hoods.  Here they are: 1) Inspect the range hood carefully when it is delivered to find any dents or weld breaks that might have been made to the hood during shipping.  Mine was in excellent condition, but youll want to contact the seller right away if yours is not.  2) All parts were included in the box (even a round adapter for a round duct) except for one item.  You will need to purchase a wire clamp to install in the knockout for the AC power cable.  These are available at hardware stores and cost less than a dollar.  You could reuse an existing one, but better to install a new one.  3) The metal duct cutout needs to be removed from the range hood.  However, its easy to bend and damage the surrounding sheet metal.  So I used a rotary drill with a metal cutting wheel to cut through the metal tabs holding the cutout in place.  Then it was easy to pull off the cutout with minimal pressure to the surrounding metal.  Wear heavy gloves or be careful not to cut yourself on the sharp edges of the sheet metal.  4)  When the fan is on at high speed, the damper can remain in a vertical open position and not fall back down to a horizontal closed position.  To fix this, extend the plastic tab stop which is behind the damper so it cannot move back enough to get stuck open.  I reinforced the plastic tab with a small nylon wire cable fastened around the mounting tab.  5) The damper must be installed with the hinge facing up and towards the back wall (for a vertical duct).  This correct orientation isn't clearly indicated in the instructions.  6) The light cover can vibrate and create noise when the fan is running.  Just place a couple layers of clear tape over the cover tabs to make a tighter fit.  I bought two clear 40w appliance bulbs since the light cover is frosted and mutes the bright clear light.  And thats it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2830, "id": 297152, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 378, "len_tokens": 418, "text": "I've only had my panda XBP45 for less than 6 hours and already it has successfully done 6 loads of washing. Do not let this systems size put you off as it can easily hold 4 towels, couple pairs of jeans and other garments in the same wash. Couple of things I have noticed...\n\n1. Do NOT over fill the spin section. I washed a full set of queen sheets and placed them both in the spin. The Panda spun them well but I noticed a table spoon of water under the machine. Upon closer inspection I noticed what appear to be drainage holes under the machine. The second time I spun those sheets I did them one at a time and no further leaks have appeared.\n\n2. If you are someone living in an apartment that does not allow washers I can assure you the packaging for this machine has the word Panda stamped on the front of the box. Unless your landlord is aware what that could mean you should have no problems.\n\n3. While this machine is fairly quiet the spin cycle is a little on the noisy side. I would imagine living in a ground floor apartment you would get away with running this machine without upsetting your neighbors. However on other levels of an apartment you will almost certainly alert the neighbors to the fact that you have a washing machine going.\n\nIn my own situation I live in a small property with my hubby and this machine is just perfect for the two of us. It cleans my clothes in under 10 mins  and with the spin dry Is fantastic! 20 mins in the sunlight is all it took for my clothes to be perfectly dry after the wash and spin.\n\nMy only criticism is that it took 10 days from payment until I actually received the machine. In fairness to the seller and Amazon I was informed of the delivery dates etc before I purchased but when you consider I ordered and paid for the item on Friday 13th and received it on the 23rd I find that in this day and age a little disappointing.\n\nThe Panda however is worth its weight in gold! 5 stars to my new washer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2831, "id": 509609, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 383, "len_tokens": 483, "text": "Just installed this in my kitchen.  I did not use their ducts.  I installed a smooth metal duct that runs to the exterior wall and ventilates to the outside.  The installation was pretty simple.  I can see that some people may find the instructions lacking, but if you have a feel for installing a hood, this one is simple.  Now for the product:\nThe Good:  The design is clean, and the touchscreen face works well.  The fan seems to do a good job, and I did not find the fan any noisier than any other fan I've used in the past.  It seemed an average amount of noise for an exhaust fan.  It may be noisier if you recirculate the air back into the room, but I exhausted the air outside.  The fan has three speeds, and the lights have their own switch.  The grease filters are easily accessible and can be removed for cleaning in the dishwasher.\nThe Bad:  The grease filters are a little bit lightweight (easily bent) and loose fitting.  It's not that bad, but you can tell those parts are not premium quality.  The lights are 2 LEDs that are very blue tinted (they are probably 5-6000k LEDs).  The hood would be much better with warmer lights and 4 lights instead of 2.  The fan seems to draw air well, but I expected more pronounced audible suction from a 600CFM fan.  I have not checked the actual cfm, so it may just be that I expected it to be louder.  I'll know more after I check some of the surrounding cabinet surfaces over the coming months for any grease that didn't make it up the hood.  The clock and digital functions are odd, and the instructions are minimal.  For using the fan and lights it's pretty simple.  Supposedly you can set the fan to automatically turn off after a certain amount of time, but I couldn't figure it out.  All it did for me was screw up the clock (which by the way is only working in 24 hour mode - I can't figure out how to change to 12 hour mode.).\nSo far so good for this hood.  I couldn't beat the discount price from the Amazon Warehouse, so in that sense it's a real bargain.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2832, "id": 496132, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 263, "len_tokens": 440, "text": "LAST YEAR THERE WERE OLDER MODELS RECALLED FOR SPIN SPEED NOT PERFORMING ACCURATELY AND DANGEROUS THUMPING PRODUCED BY THE WASHERS... A FIRMWARE UPDATE WAS MADE!!\nTHIS MODELS IS NOT INCLUDED IN THE RECALL AND THEY ARE STILL HAVING THE SAME ISSUES!!\nIMAGINE MY SURPRISE WHEN AFTER 4 WEEKS OF OWNING THIS WASHER IT BEGINS TO SPIN ON AN EXTRA HIGH SPEED ON A LOW SPEED SETTING. I TRIED RESETTING IT. IT BOUNCES SO BADLY THAT THE EXTERIOR PART OF THE WASHER BEGINS TO BOW, WHAT A JOKE. I USE LOW SPIN FOR ALL MY LOADS, I ALSO ONLY FILL THE DRUM UP 2/3 TO 3/4, NO HIGHER. I HAVE HAD TO RE LEVEL MY WASHER 3 TIMES IN 2 WEEKS BECAUSE OF ITS ERRATIC BEHAVIOR. IT REPEATEDLY SAYS 1 HOUR WASH, THEN AN HOUR LATER THERE IS STILL 30 MINUTES TO GO. THE LG MANUAL RECOMMENDS THAT YOU WASH SIMILAR ITEMS. ONE OF MY LOADS HAD 2 PAIRS OF JEANS AND THE REST SHIRTS AND UNDERWEAR, IT GOT UE ERRORS 3 TIMES, THEN I TOOK THE JEANS OUT. THE DRUM STILL FLOPPED AROUND AND WOULDN'T OPERATE PROPERLY. I HAD TO REMOVE EVERYTHING AND WASH 1/3 OF MY LOAD AT A TIME. WHAT A JOKE. I PUT IN 1 COMFORTER AND IT GOT UE CODES THE ENTIRE TIME. THE WASHER NEVER BEHAVED THAT WAY THE FIRST 4 WEEKS... VERY VERY STRANGE!! I RECOMMEND SAMSUNG. I OWN AN ELECTRONIC REPAIR COMPANY, I AM NOT SORRY TO SAY THIS LG, THIS NEED A FIX AND A RECALL IMMEDIATELY. IT COULD KILL SOMEONE WITH ITS ERRATIC BEHAVIOR.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2833, "id": 299203, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 356, "len_tokens": 431, "text": "I have an older Whirlpool ED25TEXHW02 Side by Side Refrigerator with ice maker and separate in door ice / water dispensers. At first I noticed water freezing in the ice maker water supply tupe, then \"hollow ice cubes\". Researched how it all works online and came to the right conclusion is was the valve / solenoid assembly (after first coming the wrong conclusion is was the ice maker and replacing it) and found an excellent price plus FREE SHIPPING here. Whoppee ! It works. Took about 30 minutes to replace old assembly - and about 20 minutes to run 3 gallons of water through after the work (to get the air out of the lines).\n\nMy original assembly used all compression fittings. This unit use all but 2 \"push a plug\" connectors for the water lines. I was worried if I had to cut the compression fitting off the line would be too short - so the ones that slid right off I took off and left the other compression fittings on the line (it's better than cutting the line too short). Piece of cake - no cutting any plastic lines, they all fit fine. I was worried about the main water inlet - my supply line is copper with a brass compression washer and nut. Not a problem - the main water inlet on the new assembly is metal.\n\nNOTE: BEFORE disconnecting the wire connectors on the original assembly - note which terminal on the solenoids the colored wire goes to. Each solenoid has a tab marked with an alpha / numeric indicator (A1 or B4) and an alpha indicator (L or M). All the white wires should go to the same label indicator on all the solenoids. So it's simple - for example only: Just remember - \"white to A1 (or B4)\" and your have it licked. You shouldn't have a problem reassembling and putting the wrong connector the the wrong solenoid - the tabs on the two solenoids are different sizes. The main water inlet solenoid connector is almost always colored Red.\n\nHave fun, and best of luck to all!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2834, "id": 405221, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 402, "len_tokens": 444, "text": "A few years ago our ice machine in the freezer broke down because it was leaking water like crazy and destroying my hardwood floor. We had to disable it as the refrigerator is not worth the cost of repairing. Because of this we have been without ice for drinks, ice packs, etc until now. I have a decently sized kitchen with a lot of counter space so finding a counter top ice maker, which I had no idea existed, has been pretty awesome.\n\nPutting the ice machine together was fairly easy. I had to wipe it out with a cloth, soap and water. I then filled the basin with water and in less than an hour I had ice! It is fairly quiet. My dog used to startle and bark every time the ice maker went off. The dog barely notices when this one creates ice. The ice maker allows you to create different sizes of ice. I prefer the medium sized cubes (which are actually teeny tiny igloos) but they can melt if left in there too long without a new creation of cubes.\n\nI prefer to use a pitcher with water filter before pouring the water in my machine. The ice is clear and tastes great. My only problem with this ice machine is that it stops creating ice when the sensor is covered. This can happen when the ice bin is less than half full so it is important to use the scoop to move the ice around when you think about it. Overall, this machine has been awesome. It's nice to have access to this again.\n\nI purchased this della 48 pound daily counter top ice maker at a deep discount so I could offer my review of it. All opinions are truly my own and it is my pleasure to be able to offer others my thoughts so they might be able to make informed decisions as to whether products are appropriate for them. I am not a paid reviewer and I am in no way required by the seller to leave positive remarks about their product. I gain nothing by giving this item a positve, negative or neutral review. If at any time in the future with prolonged use of any product my opinion changes, I will leave an update to my review of the product (as you can see by past reviews, that happens).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2835, "id": 88307, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2836, "id": 164874, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 368, "len_tokens": 473, "text": "Two years after purchasing Bosch's \"stainless\" steel \"rust-free\" dishwasher with a \"lifetime warranty\" against rust, we discovered... rust. It was in a very specific area, where the metal filter attaches to the interior tub. We called Bosch and were told that it was our fault, that it was our water, our dishwasher soap, our flatware--anything but the dishwasher. We persisted, explaining that we use a water softener and a reverse-osmosis system and that our water is no worse, and probably a bit better, than average. Furthermore, if it was merely our water, then we would expect to see rust everywhere. As for our dishwasher soap--well--it comes from Costco, and I'm sure they'd take exception to Bosch's claim that it promotes rust.\n\nWe offered our own theory, which is that the metal used in the filter is dissimilar to the metal in the tub, resulting in a galvanic reaction and corrosion to the metals. Basically, the two different metals, pressed together in an aqueous environment, results in a battery. But for Bosch to admit this would be to admit a design flaw--the sort of admission that leads to a class-action lawsuit. We already know Bosch uses a variety of \"stainless\" metals. For example, the metal used on the door is a very inferior grade of stainless steel that is easily streaked and spotted. And the way you can tell is to use a magnet. If the magnet sticks then it's ferrous metal and more prone to staining.\n\nBosch advertises a \"lifetime rust-free warranty\" on many of their dishwashers. This section is taken right out of the manual: \"Stainless Steel TallTub: A rust-free, hygienic interior surface with a lifetime warranty.\"\n\nYet if you attempt to exercise your warranty, Bosch will tell you that they don't actually guarantee their metals against rust; they only warrant against \"rust-through\", meaning you will have to live with the rust until it eats a hole through the metal--until water starts pouring into some part of the dishwasher where it doesn't belong (hopefully not endangering you, your family, or your home, in the process). It is fraudulent of Bosch to advertise a \"lifetime rust-free warranty\" if they have no intentions of honoring what they advertise.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2837, "id": 503521, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 328, "len_tokens": 432, "text": "Before you buy an Avanti gas oven, read this:\n\nI Received this Avanti Range a week ago.  Accurate oven temperatures are important so I put 1 analog thermometer inside, plus 2 digital thermometers as well.  I set the over to 300F and waited 20 minutes.  All 3 thermometers read 350F.  I set the over to 350F, waited 20 minutes,  and all 3 thermometers read 375F.  I did this a second time, setting the oven to 300F and my thermometers read 375F! I had all 3 thermometers toward the back upper section of the oven, same place the factory thermocouple is located.\n\nBefore I read the owners manual for the problem and it said for: Oven temperature is\ninaccurate-  Oven capillary bulb not positioned properly - Verify that capillary bulb is snapped in clips straight and not touching sides or coated with oven cleaner or food.  The oven is brand new.  So, I checked its mounting.  Its perfect.\n\nThe owners manual says An Avanti Products authorized service center will provide expert repair service, scheduled at a time that is convenient for you. Our trained servicers\nknow your appliance inside and out.\n\nSo I called Avanti at 9:00am in the morning..  They took down my information and said they would email the service company and I would hear something back in 2 to 3 business days!  They also gave me the a case number, the name of the service company, and their phone number.\nLater in the day I call the service company Avanti told me would be handling the issue.\nThe person whom answered the phone said Its gonna be a while.  I asked how long is a while?.  She said, Probably a long time.  I asked Why a long time?  She said Well ,we don't have anyone in your area that knows how to fix an Avanti gas oven so you better find someone else.\n\nNeed I say more?\n\nPS: The owners manual says PRINTED IN CHINA.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2838, "id": 537435, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 300, "len_tokens": 400, "text": "I saw the other review and felt i should post.  I bought this...I think from Lowes...or HD last summer....I needed a narrow fridge for our kitchen and this worked.  It is a different way of doing things.  Only two drawers....which I like.  It changes the way you hoard food!  We have a second small freezer...so the little freezer on this isn't a problem either.  And it has worked fine for us and our tiny house.  Stays cool.  HOWEVER:  I read any review I could find before I bought it and none mentioned (though it is cropping up now)....it is really loud when revs into its running (I don't know is it the deep freeze?) mode.  It takes a while to get used to the noise.  Here is the reality: we have been renovating for 7 years.  We had to buy all of our appliances new 7 years ago. Every stinking one.  The sales people at all the stores warned us that most appliances last 5-7 years.  Our last refrigerator died after 6.  Our dishwasher just died (and I was looking at the artistry line reviews of those dishwashers which is how i found this review of the fridge). It is appalling, wasteful for the environment and I wish some politician cared enough to motivate manufacturers not to be such goblins.  Activism aside, I am replacing all appliances in the best way that I can....are there warranties?  are there rebates? is it energy star? does it work for our space?  (and kids?) and how much...because there is no sense in buying a $2000 fridge that last 6 years.  Oh beauty details: it holds magnets....you can change the orientation of the door and handle....but it shows grubbing little handprints quickly.  It still looks nice buried under alphabet magnets and calendars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2839, "id": 485732, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 361, "len_tokens": 436, "text": "Wow.... OK, for starters you would think, \"ok $40 is about half as much as some of the 'nicer' pH testers\" Yeah... Until you spend it and realize that what you got was complete garbage. For starters it's horribly manufactured. It's made of very very very cheap plastic, I chipped the battery cover just sliding it open. That should have been the second I packed it back up and returned it. I opened it and the the readings where way off... Ok, not out of the norm considering it needs to be calibrated... So i pick up some pH test fluid. I calibrate it. Awesome! I use it, and it works. Great. Calibration was kinda ridiculous because the instructions must have been written by a high school kid or someone fluent in Engrish. The instruction manual has illustrations of parts that aren't included, pretty confusing IMO. The thermometer and humidity meter are pretty worthless for what I need it for. The water I use is left to sit open at room temp for an hour. Whatever. So after using it I put it away and two days later I opened it up and it was reading WAY WAY WAY higher than when I had calibrated it. I opened another calibration packet, calibrated, used it again, and noted the pH level. I put it away and a few hours later decided to test my water again because I know that the pH changes after a few hours, long story, it usually goes up a little. I open it, test again, and it's WAYYYYYYYYY off again, it's claiming water that I also tested using a liquid test kit was almost 2points higher than what my liquid kit was saying.  The storage container is cheap plastic, the plastic part that it sits in is paper thin plastic crap. Spend your money on a better meter.\n\nBottom line, I should have spent the extra $40 for a decent pH meter that I don't have to calibrate EVERY SINGLE TIME. That's gonna cost $1.50-$2 to calibrate every time I go to use it. I'm over it. Cant return it now that the battery cover is broken.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2840, "id": 109441, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 87, "len_tokens": 486, "text": "Once installed all my ice making problems went away. And it is very easy to install, I had it installed and working in no time\n\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/GE-WR30X10093-Refrigerator-Icemaker-Kit/dp/B003BIGDJ0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">GE WR30X10093 Refrigerator Icemaker Kit</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/GE-WR30X10093-Fridge-Icemaker/dp/B0156NI36I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">GE WR30X10093 Fridge Icemaker</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/GE-GE-WR30X10061-GE-Replacement-Refrigerator-Icemaker-Kit/dp/B00DUW3EQW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">GE GE-WR30X10061 GE Replacement Refrigerator Icemaker Kit</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/General-Electric-Refrigerator-IM6D-Icemaker-Kit-White/dp/B00OMR0KWA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">General Electric Refrigerator IM6D Icemaker Kit, White</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/GE-WR30X10061-Electronic-Icemaker-for-Refrigerator/dp/B004H3XW60/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">GE WR30X10061 Electronic Icemaker for Refrigerator</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/GE-WR30X10093-Refrigerator-Icemaker-Kit-Model-WR30X10093-Hardware-Store/dp/B01G77PZ5Y/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">GE WR30X10093 Refrigerator Icemaker Kit, Model: WR30X10093, Hardware Store</a>", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2841, "id": 16685, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 373, "len_tokens": 419, "text": "For the money, i guess it is unfair to expect a whisper quit unit, so you get what you pay for with this.\nI was replacing a very old Broan hood, so i got this mainly because i had hopes that it would fit the space i had with minimal fuss and this did hold true and thereby accomplished my primary goal.\n\nI was a bit amazed that being 30 years newer, the filter arrangement was so flimsy compared to the one i was replacing. I'll just have to live with that. This unit is also noticeably noisier than the original as well.\n\nOne thing that also surprised me was that if you vent the unit out through the wall, there is a vent in the front that must be covered up with a cheesy looking black plastic cover. I didn't notice it in the pictures on the amazon web site, but it is very noticeable in my kitchen. This is the result of having chosen a 'convertible' unit. I could not discern  what the term actually meant and assumed it meant venting through the back or the top. In the end, i think it means you can use it vented through the wall or just recycle the air indoors.\n\nMy experience is a reminder that buying this type of product online is fraught with decisions that are costly to recover from, if made without understanding exactly what is being selected. This is made all the more difficult because Broan offers many, many units to pick from and their description of what makes the units unique are amazingly vague and difficult to understand, even after going to their web site and downloading the instructions beforehand. Additionally, i found it impossible to find any local stores who carry these in stock, so it is impossible to do that type of legwork first.\n\nIn the end, it might be unfair to give only two stars for this product, since you basically are getting about the cheapest hood you can buy, so the rating really reflects the frustration of not being presented with enough intelligible information that i might have been able to pick a unit that more closely matches what i was attempting to get.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2842, "id": 88443, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2843, "id": 229346, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 354, "len_tokens": 427, "text": "A Jenn-Air downdraft range came with my home 30 years ago. A couple of years ago, I replaced it with a new Jenn-Air range. It worked ok until last year, when my smoke alarm went off while grilling a steak. The downdraft was barely moving any air. I put a request in on Service Magic for someone to come and make the downdraft work better. An appliance repair person came and determined that the outside wall cap was clogged up, and was the wrong type for a Jenn-Air. It was a metal wall cap with a metal wire screen on the inside. He didn't work on the vent system, so I went back to Service Magic for someone who could replace the wall cap. That turned out to be somewhat difficult because vent contractors work on dryer vents or HVAC, but not kitchen exhaust vents. One HVAC company agreed to come and look at installing a Jenn-Air wall cap that I would order online.\n\nThe Jenn-Air A406 Wall Cap is made of plastic, with a spring that keeps the damper closed when not in use. Obviously, this thing isn't going to last 30 years like the old wall cap did. The A406 was installed, and the ventilation was improved considerably. However, the test with the flow card that came with the range still fails. The flow test card is supposed to be sucked into the air vent, but it doesn't move at all. However, most of the smoke and steam does get sucked down that vent, so that's what I need.\n\nI got a little paranoid that rats and mice could enter via the damper, so I followed up with a handyman contractor to install a critter screen over the wall cap.\n\nThis little project cost about $500 to install the $18 wall cap and critter screen. When this one wears out, I now know to call a handyman to come put in a new wall cap and critter screen. If the handyman installs the wall cap and critter screen in the same call, it should cost about $150 to get the job done.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2844, "id": 398379, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 376, "len_tokens": 464, "text": "This the winner. After receiving 2 other brand of freezers this unit is the clear winner in both design/quality and delivery  Design/quality - the door face is one single, seamless item. There are no miter corner joints in the aluminum door face.  Score a big one for me - makes the unit at least look in par with Kitchenaid and higher priced brand. The blue/white light option is cool.  The thermostat drops down to 35? (Ok well flow other brands) to keep the drinks cold.  Also the holes in the shelves is a good touch to keep cold air circulating.\n\nAbout the dim - whey they say its that size it is that size.  My contractor had to shave 1/4 off the plastic feet (which is screwed and used for leveling) to fit under the 34 opening.  We have cabinets-to-go lower base cabinets with quartz counter top - no overhang or other obstructions.\n\nSound - wa a big consideration before the purchase.  So its not super quiet and I don't notice it running fridge.  But its not loud or that noticeable.  We have in the butlers area and it does its work and I don't notice the sound.  Score.\n\nDelivery.  This was another big factor. So much that we purchased another brand from Abt - local brick and mortar store to avoid damages during shipping.  At least we could inspect the item at the site before pick up.  But Im glad we changed our minds and ordered this unit.  We ordered 3 ( 1 from Amazon 1 from Costco and then theres the Abt) different brands and the 2 that did arrive to our house were damaged.  Both were on the corners.  As for this unit the delivery wa via Estes logistics and arrived on a pallet with a do not place other object hat on top of the box.  If they had placed an item of some weight then the little hat would have been deformed and you could refuse delivery in the spot.\n\nBottom line - this a great design and build quality unit with a different delivery method to ensure you get to enjoy the freezer without transit damage.\n\nCouple hundred bucks more than similar fridges in the 700-1000 range but well worth it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2845, "id": 121687, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 312, "len_tokens": 475, "text": "These are pretty much required if you are stuck with a non-vented range hood.  Because of the inside wall placement of our cook top, the only way to vent a hood would require major work and cost. Maybe when I win Powerball, I can renovate the kitchen.  Ha, forget that, I will walk away from the house when that happens, shouting so long suckers...  But since I'm too cheap to buy a ticket, and an overeducated, lowly paid chimp to boot, no way that's happening.  Anyway, these work well to capture the splatters better than the aluminum mesh panels alone (these are installed on top of the aluminum mesh, so I may be stretching here).  As for odor removal, they probably do not contain enough activated carbon to completely remove odors, but do seem to help some.  Cooking is about the smells, too, so why hide them.  If it smells as bad as Durian fruit, you better cook and eat it outside.  I figure they may help keep grease out of the hood interior, too.  The cost is much less than the big box stores, so a no brainer purchase from Amazon.  Recommended for tightwads like myself.  Probably need to replace on a six month basis.\n\nFollowup from January 2014.  I have not replaced these on a six months basis (too cheap).  Still works fine, so my review stands.  If you happen to have the same Broan hood that takes four halogen bulbs, I also suggest the following LED bulbs as a substitute for the hot and less efficient halogen bulbs,&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Lighting-EVER-5W-GU10-LED-Bulbs-50W-Equivalent-Warm-White-Recessed-Lighting-Track-Lighting/dp/B008OCAST4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Lighting EVER 5W GU10 LED Bulbs, 50W Equivalent, Warm White, Recessed Lighting, Track Lighting</a>.  These bulbs fit with a little adjusting of the fixture (there are screws holding each bulb socket in place).  I have had these in place for six moths without issue.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2846, "id": 450738, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 355, "len_tokens": 430, "text": "I ordered these to replace the knobs on my 28 year old Kenmore Gas Range, made by Roper.  Buying the brand replacements would have cost over $26.00 PER KNOB!  That's far more than the range is worth.  I looked at a LOT of knob reviews for different brands online before purchasing.  Most of them claimed that the knobs in question did not fit their range or did not fit well.  Guess what, these did not fit on my range \"out of the box\" either.  HOWEVER, with ingenuity and trial and error, I found a work around.  Now the knobs are doing their job well.  All you need to do is select the plastic sleeve that fits your stem (the stem that protrudes from the range).  When I did this, and slid the knob onto the stem, it would not turn, since my knob must be pushed in, THEN turned to the left to ignite the burner.  If yours operates like this, do what I did.  I took tiny portions of a paper towel (although any similar material will do) and stuffed it into the knob shaft.  I filled about half of it and then slid it back on the stem.  Success.  The problem is that the stem is much shorter than the shaft, so the knob slides too close to the stove to be able to push it in before turning it.  Hope that description makes sense and helps someone else.  The only other problem is that the knobs feel like they could be slightly tighter on the stem.  If that continues, I plan to wrap the stem with a piece of electrical tape.\n\nSome people had trouble with the circular overlays that you peel the backing from and place on the knob.  Its only been a couple of days, but so far they are sticking.  I am sure if they come loose, a dose of contact cement will remedy that situation.  They look nice and are functioning for a small fracdtion of what the brand knobs would have cost.  I couldn't bear the thought of the knobs being worth more than the range!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2847, "id": 87363, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2848, "id": 70823, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 364, "len_tokens": 442, "text": "We paid almost $2K for this thing. We also purchased the extended warrenty for 3 years. The repairman was out every 6 months. The cheap plastic inside breaks and cracks continually and after the first 2 years, the plastic parts are NOT covered by warranty any more. The rubber seal on the door came off and that required replacement of the entire door - twice -- which they put on crooked so when you look at the front of the fridge, one door is higher than the other. It also required a special order so we had to take 2 days off, one for the diagnosis and another for the actual repair. The humidity control on the cheese drawer broke. The pulls on the veg drawers cracked. The veg drawers fall out of the track if you put anything heavy in them like onions, tomatoes, carrots, or lemons. My drawers are just resting on the bottom of the fridge.\n\nAfter 3 1/2 years the motherboard went - $600 (out of pocket).\n\nWhen the doors are closed, the \"Open Door\" alarm starts beeping. Somtimes if you pull out and push back in the basket and the drawers in the freezer, it will stop beeping. Sometimes I have to open the fridge doors and press the two door buttons to get it to stop. Still haven't figured out what that is.\n\nHaving the water dispenser inside the fridge is not a good idea. The water pressure is too low and it takes too long. You have to stand there for a whole minute filling a water bottle with the door open. And if you fill two, the door alarm beeps. The ater filters are $30 each. You can get them as cheap as $26 - if you buy a case of 6!\n\nOne repairman said he spends 80% of his time fixing just GE Profiles. The model is poorly designed, poorly made, with inexpensive parts that wear quickly. I cannot reccommend this appliance at all. I know now, almost 4 years later, that it was a fad, something shiney, new, and novel, but not worth the box it came in -- like a pet rock.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2849, "id": 50846, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 355, "len_tokens": 411, "text": "We remodeled our kitchen and purchased this particular Bosch because it seemed like a great machine and there were some good reviews - I decided to ignore the bad reviews thinking the complainers were just unhappy people. Well, now it is 3 months later and my dishes are not drying, the door is not functioning (it's floppy), and it is leaking all over my hardwood floors! (sorry complainers, i should have listened) I suspect all of these problems are related to each other, because it makes sense logically, but getting someone to come out and fix it has been awful - and I live in the Metro DC area where you would think there'd be a lot of companies who would service Bosch when they are under warranty. Apparently many of the companies don't like to take warranty work (i'm sure the fee schedule is not very good for them) so its been a challenge. Only one company has been somewhat polite to me while I seek repair, and I'm going with them.  In addition, and not related to the fact that it is broken, I think I underestimated how small this dishwasher actually is inside.  It's very small, I can't fit nearly as much, and I am very good at loading so as to maximize use of the entire space. Nobody had this model on the floor, and since it was so expensive, I figured it would be larger inside than the others I did see.  I'm not a fan of the silverware basket either, its awkward to use and fits very little. There was also this tray thing at the top that I can't figure out what it is for, and it is annoying. Maybe I need to read about what it is in the book. I will say that it is definitely quiet - you can barely hear it - that is rather amazing.  I also think the red light is nice. Overall, I think I could have done better and spent far less and next time I will do a better job researching.  Now, if I can just get this fixed!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2850, "id": 158642, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 325, "len_tokens": 418, "text": "My Maytag MGR5755ADW developed an issue where it would take a long time for the oven to start heating, then it would cycle every 20 seconds or so, relighting the gas.  Replacing the igniter with this unit fixed the problem.\n\nThe power necessary to open the gas valve in the oven runs through this igniter.  If the igniter develops a fault, it'll prevent the gas valve from opening.  The igniter doesn't need to physically break for this safety feature to be tripped...a change in the igniter's electrical resistance is enough.  I measured the electrical resistance of this part to be half that of the original igniter, which indicated that the original was likely faulty.\n\nThe replacement igniter included no instructions but is marked as being a genuine Whirlpool (who owns Maytag now) replacement part made in the US.  It cost about half of what some appliance part websites ask for it.\n\nReplacing the igniter was very easy.  First, unplug the power cord and shut off the gas supply to the stove. Then open the oven door to its first detent and pull it straight up off the hinges.  Remove the racks inside the oven, then remove the lower panel in the oven by lifting the rear edge first.  Once done, you'll see the igniter at the back of the oven.  Put some water (NOT oil or grease) on the two screws securing the igniter to the burner...it'll help make them easier to remove.  Undo the two screws holding it to the burner, then pull the igniter forwards.  The igniter's power cord passes through some white insulation at the back...pull it out far enough for the electrical connector to be exposed, then simply unclip the connector.  Reverse this process to complete the installation.\n\nThis took me all of 10 minutes to do...anybody can realistically do this themselves.  Could not be happier with the product (quality and price) or the final outcome...my oven now works properly again!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2851, "id": 464848, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 324, "len_tokens": 412, "text": "I've owned this model since mid-2005, buying it from the Army Air Force Exchange Service (AAFES) (a.k.a., PX) on Kadena Air Base, Okinawa, Japan. As with most major appliances purchased through AAFES, I had my choice of ONE in the side-by-side refrigerator category (only one make, and only one model of that make), so I purchased this puppy with more than just a little hesitation.\n\nA little background... I needed an EXTRA refrigerator, beyond the one that the military assigns to families in housing. This one NEVER fit in the little space that is accorded to refrigerators in the little kitchens of military family housing, so the \"rental\" fridge always got that spot. As a result, I must confess to abusing the ever loving daylights out of this fridge. It has been parked a covered carport, shoved into the corner of a 2nd story patio, and now it sits in an outdoor storage shed in the backyard with an extension cord running out to it. It was obviously shipped first to Japan from the U.S., I then shipped it to Germany, and then I shipped it back to mainland Japan. I've had it running almost continuously on a temperature controller in order to maintain a specific temperature (I'm a home brewer, so I've used it mostly for fermenting and cold-conditioning lagers), so it has been forced to cycle on and off far more often than any refrigerator should ever be made to do.\n\nToday? Well, it STILL works just as well as it did the day I bought it and brought it home. I couldn't be more happier with it. It still makes ice, it dispenses water, it chills, it freezes, it just plain RUNS, and RUNS, and RUNS!! A GREAT refrigerator!!\n\nImagine, having a choice of ONE model at the time of purchase, shipped through 4 international moves, installed outdoors, and yet it still works like a charm more than 9 years later!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2852, "id": 409820, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 433, "len_tokens": 488, "text": "This filter is good. It's very easy to set it up (make sure you soak it first for about 15 minutes to get rid of any of the little black pieces that might come out).\nWhen I got this filter I was able to take out my old filter and put this one in and use it within just a matter of seconds (after the initial soaking of course).  Don't be surprised if you hear a loud popping sound when you take out your old filter.  I love the instructions that come with it too - believe me I have replaced the filter before and not known what to do because I just received an unmarked padded envelop with a filter inside!\nThe instructions did not tell me to do this, but when I change my filter I always run and discard the first two glasses of water.  I honestly am not sure where or when I picked up that habit - but, I always do it.\n\nThe only reason I gave this four stars instead of five is that I am not big on the taste of the water that comes out after using the filter.\n\nI trust the quality of this product 100% but the taste to me makes it seem like a glass of water I got at a restaurant.  I used it solidly for about a week and still I'm getting the restaurant water taste.  I asked my husband and he said he didn't notice it, but my best friend was over and I asked her to try it and she mentioned the same thing.  My husband drinks so much soda and I almost exclusively drink water - so, I feel like I may be a little more sensitive to the taste of water than he is.  My favorite water is Aquafina, if that helps. The previous filter I used tasted more like Aquafina but was about 3 times the cost.\n\nI will continue to use this filter and see if the water taste changes at all.  I know that when I first put the filter in it was sort of loud - but that went away pretty quickly.  I did receive this filter at a discounted price in exchange for my honest review. I have well water and there is a very high iron level in the water (so much so that my white shirts get orange collars when I wash them) so drinking unfiltered water is not an option (have you ever smelled the \"egg water\" smell from well water?  That's what I have!).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2853, "id": 212207, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 295, "len_tokens": 437, "text": "My LG washer model WM0642HW/01 had been making some odd noises for some time. Eventually the tub quit spinning altogether. I could hear some sound from the motor as though it was trying to spin the tub, but it was not moving. I watched a youtube video where this guy had the same problem, and it was very funny because this guy was verbally reproducing the exact sound my washing machine was making. When I watched the video, I knew instantly this was my problem, since my machine was making the same sound. The problem is caused by the plastic teeth on the rotor being stripped out. So when the motor turns, there are no teeth on the rotor for it to grab.  Eventually when it gets bad enough, your washer will quit spinning altogether.\nThis new rotor has metal teeth that shouldn't strip out like the old one did. The part was very well packaged.\n\nThe repair is really simple, quick and easy. There are some good videos on youtube that show how to do the repair.  Search for \"lg rotor replacement\".  You remove a few screws from the back panel of your washer and the back panel will come off. Then there is only one bolt which holds the rotor onto the washer. When I took mine apart, the single bolt holding the rotor on was really loose.\n\nBefore you bolt on the new rotor, be sure and apply some medium strength thread locking compound to the bolt. This will help prevent the bolt from coming lose over time. There are a number of different brands of thread locking compound, below are links to a couple on Amazon:\n\nPermatex Medium Strength Thread Locking Compound:\nhttps://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24200-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0002UEMZ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506279413&sr=8-1&keywords=thread+locking+compound\n\nLocktite Medium Strength Thread Locking Compound:\nhttps://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37418-Strength-Threadlocker-6-milliliter/dp/B000FIXQXK/ref=dp_ob_image_hi", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2854, "id": 116121, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 427, "len_tokens": 489, "text": "We had to exchange this ice maker too many times.  We are on our third one.  Our kids were in tennis and taking ice water every day to school and to tennis so we used a lot of ice.  We couldn't get the first two to work right so we had someone come out to see if they could get the second one working to be sure it wasn't our refrigerator.  They were able to at least get it to make ice and fill with water.  We went through the ice so fast that we didn't realize that the metal lever to stop it from making it when the bucket was full didn't work.  After the tennis season, we found out that the lever wasn't working so we contacted the company and they said they would warranty the product but we would have to pay for the shipping because it had been over 6 weeks.  We had them send another one, paid the price of shipping for the new one to be sent and the old one to be sent back to them and that was expensive.  It would have been nice if they had sent us a shipping label and charged us for it as we couldn't get the same rate they did to ship them so had to pay more.  Found out from our repair man that he would have ordered us one at his cost and he doesn't have to pay shipping and he would have just had us pay for the ice maker at his cost.  It would have been a whole lot cheaper and no hassle.  We will know better for next time as we don't expect this one to last.  Had to turn the water down as it was making huge ice cubes and they won't fit in our kids water bottles I send for their lunches at school.  Now that the water has been adjusted, we have some very large ice cubes and some very small ones.  Don't understand why it won't just fill at a level amount for all ice cubes and be right.  We have used a level on it and tried numerous things.  Have never had this kind of trouble before.  Don't like the ice maker and don't like the experience we have had with this company.  This ice maker has cost us way too much trouble and money.  If we didn't have so much tied up into this, I'd just throw it away and start over.  This is why I don't like to purchase things online.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2855, "id": 481970, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 351, "len_tokens": 446, "text": "So I'm usually smarter than this. I was one of the many poor sods who purchased a Maytag Neptune washer before it put Maytag out of business due to all of its little moldy quirks and problems (If you don't know, Whirlpool purchased Maytag-for a song, I'm guessing). Well, I limped my Neptune along for 12 years, which was quite impressive for a lemon, really. Then, when my moldy, stinky, Neptune finally blew its $400 circuit board, what did I do?? Buy another Maytag, of course. I must have watched too many Maytag commercials when I was growing up. OK, enough rambling. Here's the scoop on the Bravo washer:\n\nCons:\n\n1. It grinds up your clothes. The \"non\" agitator has to grab your clothes to circulate them through the stingy water levels. The cool part is that you get to watch the damage happening through the nifty glass top.\n2. It has stingy water levels. Did I already mention that? I usually run every load on the \"bulky\" setting to even come close to getting my clothes exposed to enough water. That giant drum you see through the cool, glass lid? Not sure what it's for since you can't fill it up with clothes. I've literally pulled clothes out of a complete cycle that still had dry spots on them. Now I make sure not to fill the machine more than 1/3 full so that the clothes actually get exposed to water. A hose in the backyard would work better.\n\nPros:\n\n1. Did I mention the cool, glass lid?\n\nSo, here I am, 6 months later, wishing I'd read a few reviews, because it turns out that I'm not the only one who objects to having my clothes put through a grinder, and who also thinks a washing machine should actually get your clothes wet. But, hey, the repair guy who diagnosed my dead Neptune was the one who recommended the Bravo, so with my luck, it will run forever, and I'll just have to replace all of my clothes every year. But that glass lid, you gotta love it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2856, "id": 211580, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 398, "len_tokens": 478, "text": "I live in a small (like really, really small) studio with my BF. We live about 8 blocks away from the nearest laundromat (which is crap and smells awful), since hurricane Sandy had really destroyed all the ones right near us. That being said it is like torture trying to get us to do laundry, since we don't have a car. We had to wait for 2-3 weeks of no washing to go to the laundromat, because  we had to wait for a lift from my mother or father to one.\n\nNow we don't! This is awesome. I am able to get both his and my clothes done for the week in about 45 minutes, which is the regular wash cycle on a regular dryer, except in this situation i'm at home! SO GOOD!\n\nNow before I bought this I did a lot of searching and was really trying to find the best deal and which machine was the best. I likes this one the most because you can really control the water amount and not have to worry.\n\nYou don't have to use a lot of detergent either, just a tablespoon of detergent, which is also going to run you not as much money. For me this doesn't make a big difference, since I make my own laundry detergent anyways.\n\nNow one of the things I was looking into when researching was exactly how big of a load can you put in at one time. Well in one load I was able to put:\n\n-1 pair of jeans\n-2 tshirts\n-2 pairs of underwear\n-4 pairs of sox\n-light sweater.\n\nNow I was able to wash all that and they were all in laundry mesh bags (which I highly recommend getting if your are going to buy this machine). The whole entire process took about 15-20 minutes for just that, and then repeat for my BF's clothes. The agitator on this machine is very powerful too and honestly my clothes haven't been this clean in a long long time!\n\n***edit**\n\nI fogot to Note why I gave it 4 stars and not 5. The machine was cracked on the bottom when I received it,it hasn't really made a difference in the quality of work, but it is some food for thought! Had I not receive'd  it with a crack it would've been a solid 5!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2857, "id": 87787, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2858, "id": 112494, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 315, "len_tokens": 401, "text": "hello to all searching for WF2 replacement filters for Kaz humidifiers.\ni have come from afar to find your needs. do not fret , but have faith\nand YOU shall find. you can buy them directly from Kaz for $8.00 each .\nim sure you are aware , but just in case , dump out water in the humidifier when it gets low. put in fresh water and swish it around then\nfill it again. when u install a new filter check it once a week and see\nhow it looks. the bottom part of the filter will slowly begin to discolor\ninto a brownish tan color and the top of the filter will become almost rock hard. that's okay !! change the water , wipe out inside w/ a cleaner\n(bleach can be used, just rinse really good ). DO NOT FILL WITH WATER YET\nput the filter back in with the clean part first and the discolored end\nfacing up. NO WATER !! put the cover on and put the unit on and it will\ndry the whole filter. about an hr. or less. when thats done fill the\ncontainer w/ water and the clean part of the filter up. ( so your going to\nput the discolored half of the filter in first. put on cover and turn on\nand your set. it's a good idea to always have an extra. they can be ordered over the net directly from kaz. TYPE IN YOUR SEARCH BOX \" KAZ WF2\nFILTERS. \" i read some reviews that their hard to find. i get mine thru the net, but previously at walmart , kmart , target and where humidifiers\nare sold. hope this helps some of you to find them when you need them.\nps: when the whole filter is discolored throw it out. DO NOT TRY TO USE\nIT AGAIN.  DON BARAJAS, SOMEWHERE IN ARIZONA. CAN I PUT HI MOM IN HERE ?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2859, "id": 99703, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 377, "len_tokens": 466, "text": "There is no reason to knock off any stars for this product if you set your expectations correctly.  There are thousands of different ovens out there made by dozens of different manufacturers, so you have to expect that a \"universal\" part such as this is not going to be a 100% match to the part you're replacing.  But, it will almost certainly work, and work exactly as your previous one.\n\nThe heating element itself was identical to the ones my Maytag uses for both broiler and oven.  However, as the picture plainly demonstrates, the bracket holding the heating element is the one designed to attach to the broiler.  No biggie, simply remove the dead ignitor from the old bracket, and place this new element back in it, screw it back in, and voila.\n\nNow, the trickiest part for most DIYers is going to be the wiring.  Lucky for you, it's actually really simple, thanks to this kit.  It includes wire connectors for the current generation of Maytag parts, but it's almost 99% likely that it's the wrong connector for you.  How do you solve this?  By simply cutting off your old wire connectors and using the twist-on ceramic (read heat-resistant) wire nuts.  To apply, cut off the old connectors on the wires in the back of your oven, the connectors included on the new ignitor, twist the two wires together with the two in the oven, and screw the wire nuts on to secure the wires together.  Super easy.  And if your old wires are too short, this kit includes two additional spare wires you can splice in to double the length of the wire running into the back of the oven.  And the best part, since this is essentially just a resistor, you can't plug it in backwards.  Power flows through either way.\n\nThis kit really does take into account all possibilities. It even has spare insulation that you can use to patch up any holes you might've created while pushing your cable slack and connectors back through the rear of the oven.\n\nI highly recommend this kit for anyone wanting to save a couple hundred bucks they'd be charged by a repairman for such an easy repair.  ~$35 or ~$200... I wonder what you'll pick.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2860, "id": 456562, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 386, "len_tokens": 474, "text": "We have owned our Bosch Nexxt 500 Series Washer for about a year.  It was an adjustment from being used to a top-loading machine, but, for the most part, we have been happy with it.  There are both pros and cons.\n\nThe pros:\n\nLarge capacity.  I've washed a king-sized quilt with no problem.\n\nLarge door opening for easy loading and unloading.\n\nNearly silent wash cycle.  You don't hear it filling with water and you don't hear it washing.\n\nThe spin cycle is like a jet engine, but still remains fairly quiet.  Clothes come out almost dry.\n\nAll manner of settings for various types of clothes.\n\nAn end-of-cycle beep to let you know when the wash cycle is complete.\n\nNeeds very little water, and automatically determines the water level, depending on the amount of clothes.\n\nAlthough the high efficiency detergent is more expensive, the washer uses very little.  You can even put in less than the recommended amount and have clothes come out perfectly clean.\n\nLess wear and tear on clothes, as there is no agitator.  It cleans the clothes by rotation alone.\n\nThe cons:\n\nVery long wash cycles.  (At least you know the clothes are clean.)  This is typical of any Bosch machine.\n\nIt can be fussy about what it spins.  In most cases, if you have a balanced load, the clothes will come out of the spin cycle nearly dry.  However, I have one blanket that is like fur and gets very heavy when wet.  Nothing I can do, nothing I can add to balance it, will make it spin this blanket.  Also, in the beginning, I had a lot of trouble getting it to spin things, but have since learned how to balance the loads.\n\nUnlike top-loading machines, when you have forgotten an item, you cannot open the door and add it without draining the whole machine, as the door is locked (for obvious reasons).\n\nIt is an adjustment from a top-loading machine.  As you can see, there are a small but significant amount of annoyances.  However, I will say that this washer cleans clothes better than any other I have owned, and I would recommend it.  I would also recommend you read the manual carefully, in the hope you do not have the trouble spinning that I did for the first month.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2861, "id": 65889, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 319, "len_tokens": 467, "text": "No one should operate a dryer in their home without using this kit at least once a year. I (embarrassed to say) removed 10 years of lint from my vent and it was disgusting. My vent is approximately 40 feet in length and so I had to purchase a 12 foot extension kit and work from both end to clean my system. This first time I used a ShopVac to blow air from inside my home to the outside. But now that I'm confident in the performance of the LintEater, I'm going to use the dryer exhaust for air flow and work with the LintEater from the outside, while the dryer is running.\n\nI then purchased a 45 foot USB video camera:&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/ZHOL-45ft-USB-Cable-Waterproof-Drain-Pipe-Pipeline-Plumb-Inspection-Snake-LED-Video-Color-Camera-15m/dp/B004ADETZ0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">ZHOL 45ft USB Cable Waterproof Drain Pipe Pipeline Plumb Inspection Snake LED Video Color Camera (15m)</a>&nbsp;to inspect the vent and found that 95% of the lint was removed on my first attempt, which was to be expected because I could only get the LintEater to go 20 - 22 feet in from either direction, so I'm going to purchase a second 12 foot extension kit, which will allow me to almost clean the entire line from one end.\n\nNote, because the USB video camera is a very flexible cable, I had to tape the camera to the LintEater extension rods to get the camera to go all the way into my vent, and I also used a flattened tennis ball to keep the camera lens in the central portion of the vent and not just to one side. Without the video inspection, I would never have known that the LintEater was doing an effective job. And I'm very happy to report on it 5-Star performance.\n\nFinal note, the captured lint is highly flammable and has useful applications is starting campfires, so if you're the outdoor type, you might just want to save some.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2862, "id": 206581, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 367, "len_tokens": 432, "text": "Great filters. These are legitimate Samsung filters, so there's no reason they shouldn't be good. Especially for the price! Installation is kind of annoying, took me about 15 minutes from start to finish. I had to use a pair of pliers to grip the old filter and twist to get it unlocked. There was obviously so much gunk built up in there that I couldn't get it untwisted by hand. Then I tried installing the new filter, but the water pressure made it impossible, so I went ahead and shut off the water supply to the house. With the water supply off, installing the new filter was easy. It just popped right in and locked in place. I turned the water supply back on and emptied out about 3 gallons of water as instructed. That part was very boring, I just kept filling and dumping jugs.\n\nI haven't conducted a water quality test of the tap water vs the filtered water, but just from the taste alone, it seems like the filter is working. Or maybe it's a placebo effect, who knows haha. Depending on how often you use your water dispenser, they last up to 6 months. I drink A LOT of water every day, and I let the last filter go the full 6 months before changing. That's probably why it was so hard to remove, because they were totally filled with pollutants at that point. You can also tell when they need to be changed because the water comes out a lot slower.\n\nI've had this fridge for years and we've been through tons of these filters. I took off a star because I honestly think they cost way too much. It's just a water filter! Why does it need to cost almost $50? There was one time these were $35 on Amazon, and I thought that was a great deal...but of course now the price has gone back up. Anyway, these are good and they work, so go ahead and get them if you need new filters. I've read horror stories from people buying the off-brand water filters and it breaking and flooding the house, so I'm gonna stick to the Samsung brand.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2863, "id": 3168, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 405, "len_tokens": 469, "text": "I am very satisfied with this little washing machine. The clothes come out great! I was a little nervous about buying this particular washing machine after reading some of the reviews. There are a few people who have said they have to constantly rebalance the load when it is in the spin cycle, so I was very nervous about that. But my machine runs just fine. I think maybe her machine is not level. I have very uneven floors here and I had to adjust the machine to make it level but the spin cycle works great. It stays balanced even when I wash heavy towels. The only thing I don't like about the machine is that you have to empty the lint filter after every load of laundry. It's no big deal though and it is very quick to clean but still it would be nice if it didn't need to be cleaned EVERY time. Oh! I also have not had any problems with leaks, as I took one person's advice from her review, which she said not to use too much laundry detergent, and so I made sure even for my very first load (I figured I would trust the person instead of finding out for myself) and I just use a half of a thing of detergent, instead of a whole one.\n\nOne more thing, which I find mildly disturbing and I don't know if it is just my machine or if they are all like this, hopefully someone will email me or something and let me know. BUt I read in the manual that the machine signals a sound when the cycle is finished, and so I was expecting a beep or something like that. But that is not what I heard, I heard the music from \"Jingle Bells\"!! No kidding. I thought one of my kids toys must have been in the machine or something but no!! It was in fact the washing machine that was playing the tune to \"Jingle Bells\".... is it just my machine or do they all have the same tune? And is there any way to change it because I really am not a big fan of that song particularly, and since Christmas has come and gone, I don't really want to be listening to \"Jingle Bells\" every time I do the laundry!! If anyone knows anything about this please email me at:  wiccanwotton@yahoo.com  THANKS!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2864, "id": 266145, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 329, "len_tokens": 412, "text": "Purchased through Amazon Marketplace Home Care Company,  The company is out of Brooklyn New York if you are wondering.  They contacted me via email immediately and the new range was ready for freight pick-up a couple days later.  HCC uses LTL shipping to save the customer money.  LTL shipping basically hooks up a truck that isn't full with a shipper that has something that will fit in the extra space.  In my case a J.B. Hunt truck that makes scheduled weekly run from New York to California got the message to pick up the load.  It took a week to get to California and another week for the local delivery company to call and arrange final shipment to my door.  The box was in perfect shape; extremely well packed by G.E.  The appliance inside was perfect.  Took me about 90 mins to convert from natural gas to propane; kit/instructions screwed to back of range.  I didn't have to make any adjustments beyond those listed in instructions.  Range fit like a glove in my existing 30 inch opening.  The flange extensions on sides fit on top my granite counters perfectly.  For the few people complaining about HCC, my inquiry emails were answered within 24 hrs.  Tracking info was sent as soon as it was in J.B. Hunt's system.  Again, LTL shipping  is why you get such a great price and \"free\" shipping (obviously, not really free).  Occasionally there may be a bad apple freight company, but the way the system works they don't last long and HCC fully insures the appliance prior to shipment to cover the rare bad apple.  Well worth it in my mind.  For the few complaints about gas leaks; gas ranges aren't rocket science.  I suspect a bad fitting or incorrectly installed fitting from home supply to the pressure regulator...that's the customer side of the hook-up.  Everything inside the range is pretty much what has been used for decades except for the cool electronic ignitions.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2865, "id": 467920, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 424, "len_tokens": 499, "text": "Coming from Europe, I was relieved to see that American washing machine manufacturers have finally come around to face European competition of the likes of Miele and Bosch in producing high efficiency, space saving front loading washing machines. In addition, our trusted salesman assured us of the high quality standards of the Maytag Company (remember the commercial with the idle repair guy?). Nevertheless, and now I question the reason for that, our salesman recommended the purchase of an additional 3 year warranty.\n\nWe are empty-nesters, so our machine has not been constantly challenged with heavy loads of highly soiled clothes. Otherwise the problems we are facing now would have occurred much earlier. We also should have taken the time and read some of these revealing reviews about the machine.\n\n- From the beginning, we never felt like our clothes were clean. Many stains did not disappear and clothes often smelled musty.\n- Numerous expensive clothes, particularly some very expensive athletic clothes were severely torn.\n- Even though we always leave the door open, the machine always smells musty and the rubber seal shows areas of mold; I repeatedly run the \"self-cleaning cycle\" but not to much avail (until now, I have actually never seen a \"washing\" machine with a \"self-cleaning\" cycle).\n\nWe never thought to pursue these concerns with the manufacturer, because we thought we were at fault - we should have read all these reviews.\nFor the last few weeks, the drum seemed to be squealing, to which we did not pay much attention, since the machine makes all kind of peculiar noises, anyway. However, today, suddenly, a full load of clothes was covered with grey sand. After removing the clothes, we thought it might have been something in a pocket. So I run the \"self cleaning\" cycle during which water comes gushing out of the front door. Finally, when I open the door, there is more of the grey residue and after inspecting the door I notice that the bellow is torn; so were some of the clothes, by the way. We hope, the 3 year warranty provider will honor the repair, but after reading all the negative reviews, we know, this is only the beginning of horrible things to come.\n\nThis machine should have never entered and stayed on the market. I cannot believe a reputable manufacturer such as Maytag would continue to put their label on such a dysfunctional product. This is definitely a case for a recall. And I will fight for it and so should you!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2866, "id": 461871, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 346, "len_tokens": 447, "text": "I am a mother of four and wife to a filthy (and I mean that lovingly) farmer/rancher.  I do a WHOLE LOT of laundry.  I bought this washer over a year ago based on positive reviews by well-meaning people who only owned it for a week.\n\nAt first, this washer was okay.  We were replacing a Whirpool front-loader after the control board went out after only two years.  It was comparable to the much cheaper Whirpool.  The large capacity was nice, as was the quick-wash cycle (though that was ONLY for very small loads).  Yes, there are a lot of fancy cycle options and a neat dial and all kinds of gizmos, but the washer itself was just okay.  I didn't notice it getting anything more or less clean than any other washer we've owned.  I was never gaga over it, but it did the job.\n\nFast-forward a year.  We came home from our vacation, and the washer wouldn't spin.  My husband ran diagnostics, and either the control board (which costs half or more the price of a new washer) or a pressure sensor are out.  NOBODY will come work on this machine.  We have heard multiple excuses, but what it boils down to is, nobody will come out and touch an Electrolux.  I called Electrolux myself and was told, respectfully, that since it was a couple of months out of warranty, I was on my own.  My husband even offered to load the washer up and take it to someone, but nobody would even work on it that way!\n\nSo, now, I am doing laundry for six with a 1970s-model \"spare\" from the in-laws, researching new washers yet again while my pricey Electrolux sits in the garage strapped to a dolly.  I would not recommend this brand, or this washer.\n\nWe also bought the matching dryer, and it is now taking an hour and a half to dry a load of jeans, so I expect we'll also be buying a new dryer soon.  Lots of bells and whistles on this washer, just no durability.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2867, "id": 335613, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 391, "len_tokens": 471, "text": "I didn't purchase this on Amazon but I do own it (for a week and half). It washes amazingly well! First please remember you are buying (or looking to buy) a small portable machine. This is not a standard washing machine so some things will be different.\nA few things to help decide:\n1 - I changed the hoses. The hose that it came with (2 hoses for hot/cold hook up) had plastic ends but the (male) part to connected to the sink was metal. If you are going to use the hose it came with, use plumbers tape around the sink to avoid stripping. (I didn't, hence replacing the hose). Also, they are not very long.\n2 - Make sure it is placed on a flat, even, hard surface (as indicated in the instructions). If not, you will hear a lot of rattling. If you do, the machine is not any louder than a regular washer.\n3- the spin cycle gets clothes super dry (which is important if you plan to hang the clothes and not use a dryer)\n4- I haven't used a \"large\" load but it does hold a considerable amount.  Although I won't recommend over packing it.\n5 - If you choose to use liquid detergent, I recommend just pouring it straight into the drum as the container for it doesn't hold the liquid very well. If you use powdered detergent, you can still pour it into the drum but it will definitely hold better in the dispenser. Also note, there is no place to put fabric softener but it's a portable (small) machine!\n6 - Easy to move, however the wheels are very tiny and in the back so you would probably have to tilt it to use the wheels. I just simply slide mine across the tile floor. And no it hasn't scratched the tiles.\n7- (probably should've started with this) - make sure you put in the noise plate at the bottom (screwdriver needed). I read a few comments complaining about the noise. If it's not on an even hard surface, then yes it will be loud. Also, if the noise plate isn't connected, yes it will be loud.\n8- It recommends using a wrench but if you are connecting to a kitchen/bathroom sink, then hand tightening will be enough.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2868, "id": 220287, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 354, "len_tokens": 418, "text": "Hate It!! This is my first experience with an Electrolux product and I was looking forward to owning one. I purchased the 4.3 Cu. Ft. Front Load Washer with IQ-Touch Controls featuring Perfect Steam in March and had it installed on the 23rd (2015). It is now April 25 and I hate this washing machine. I wish I had chosen a different brand. The technician has already been out once because I had a slow water leak coming down the front of the washer. The tech discovered there was a defect in the door, which created a gap large enough for water to pool inside the door. A new door is on order but it took two weeks for it to come in. I was approximately one week away from the new door arriving and the washer started having other issues. The washer developed a knocking sound when it went into the spin cycle and rocked more than it did when first installed. The spin cycle is so loud it is not conducive to a hold a normal conversation if near the washer or trying to watch television in the next room. In fact, the shaking and noise levels are so much louder and disruptive on this Electrolux then what I experienced with the 10-year-old washer I replaced. Even when on its \"last leg\", my old washer never sounded or behaved as my new one does. This is horrible; I cannot believe I paid for a product that is already having numerous problems within the first month.\n\nUpdate:  Horrible Product -1st Review No longer on Electrolux Website\nDO NOT BUY THIS PRODUCT! Interestingly, my first review (above) of this washer was removed from the Electrolux website; it was in no way inappropriate and 100% true. I am on my 2nd new washer in 6 months and the new one is now broken down with the same problem as the first one. I was told the pulley system slipped, causing a hole in the wash tub, which means I am once again without a washer for weeks at a time while waiting for repairs.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2869, "id": 518395, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 392, "len_tokens": 450, "text": "We moved in to our newly renovated house several weeks ago and love our new fridge.\n\nIt is shallow -- counter depth.  We had some concern about whether there would be enough space.  But what we have come to realize is that all that happened in the back of our old fridge was that stuff got lost -- leftovers, less frequently used items, and so on -- every month we would reach all the way back and dispose of stuff.  The shallower design is awesome -- you can easily see everything and even our kids are eating leftovers now.\n\nI really like the flat drawer that pulls out near the bottom of the fridge section. We store butter, deli meats, cheese and fresh meat in this space.  It's easy to see into, even when closed, remarkably large but not so deep that things get buried and lost and opens easily and cleverly.\n\nThe drawers all all on ball bearings so they pull out smoothly.  This is one of those things you really appreciate -- compared to plastic on plastic in basic refrigerators, things just work great.\n\nI am a fan of simplicity. There's drinking water inside the door, without all the space eaten up by the ice maker-water dispensers on typical fridges. It just works. There's nothing fancy for keeping water cool -- just a bundle of the water tubing in back. Ice maker is also simple. Having fixed all of this stuff on our last fridge over and over I know simple is better.\n\nThe freezer and French door arrangement works nicely. A couple of times the first week we found the doors not completely closed -- it has an alarm for this that starts a few minutes after doors being unclosed. But mostly it seems like it was a matter of getting used to it. We all really like the arrangement now.\n\nOverall the fridge is perfect for our family of four (well, really more like 6 since we have a 17 year old son). We highly recommend it.\n\nOne other note: we bought the fridge online via Amazon from HCost.  I was a little nervous about this, but worked out -- the shipping company called and emailed to let us arrange for delivery.  And the savings over the local store were we're going to buy from were huge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2870, "id": 468331, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 350, "len_tokens": 431, "text": "Although this washer is now listed is \"no longer available\" on Amazon, I am writing this review in support of those folks who will happen upon it from other sources.  I am pretty easy to please and actually don't think I've ever written a 1 star review on Amazon, so that's saying something about this piece of junk.\n\nI bought this washer in Nov 2012, at first I was happy with it.  I didn't have any issues with it not getting our clothes clean (like previous reviewers have mentioned), although when washing big loads I sometimes used the Bulk Load to allow more water into the bin.  I do hate the lid lock feature, the main reason I didn't purchase a front load is because I often find things after I've started the load and want to add in.  Waiting for the lid to unlock is annoying.\n\nThe main reason for my 1 star review, is that this POS quit working after 18 months.  Of course it only carries a 12 month warranty, and of course I didn't purchase extended (nor is it covered by our current home warranty).  At first I thought it was something simple like a clog from a small sock so my husband tore it apart and found no clogs.  We spiraled from there; probably should have called a repairman from the beginning but we didn't.  We talked online with a service tech and got a diagnosis of \"bad control board\", which, after researching, is a REALLY common problem with the Cabrio.  After purchasing two control boards, a motor, a lid lock and an attenuator this junk still is not working.  The local company that we bought the control board from told us their techs are always complaining about the Cabrios.  So, we are actually going to buy a used washer.  Lesson learned, just because it has more lights and buttons and fancy things like \"Affresh\", doesn't make it better.  I'm going back to an old school washer that just has turn dials and no electronic control board.  Don't care if it's not HE, either.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2871, "id": 459336, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 336, "len_tokens": 435, "text": "GE 24 in. Gas Range # JGAS02SENSS - GE has refused to repair my brand new range.\n I got this stove from Home Depot 12/10/13. The stove is 30 degrees hotter than it should be and the electronic ignition keeps clicking. I called to have this fixed and got sent to GE to schedule a repair.\n\nI had to wait until 12/27/13 for a repair appointment, and I had to take a day off of work to wait for the repairman. He came and ordered 2 parts, saying they would be delivered to me and a Saturday appointment would be made for the following Saturday between 8-noon. On Saturday shortly before noon they called to cancel my appointment and said they didn't have Saturday appointments; and that I would need to take another (unpaid) day off of work to wait for repair of a brand new product.\n\nAfter many calls to GE and Home Depot on 1/4/13 , Home depot booked a 3rd repair appointment for repair on 1/20/14 (holiday) (despite my being told by GE this wasn't available). And to days later GE sent me an email which changed the date to Thursday 1/9/14 without even talkng to me. \"Service requested for: GENERAL ELECTRIC RANGE - GAS Desired Date: Thursday, January 9 Afternoon, 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm. I had to go through Home Depot again to change it back to 1/20/14.\n\nGE has failed to repair my brand new range. Today was my 3rd repair appointment in a month and the repairman refused to replace the faulty left side electronic ignition with the parts ordered by the guy from the 1st visit. He falsely claimed the problem was a reversed polarity in my outlet. I know its false because my licensed contractor checked that and said there was no issue.  Please be aware that Home Depot cannot repair/fix anything; you must go through GE repair and they won't repair their defective product. Just check the thousands of complaints about GE appliances on the internet.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2872, "id": 144696, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 367, "len_tokens": 434, "text": "I did not purchase this range hood through amazon (I ordered it from another vendor online), but it is the exact same range hood.  I wanted a nice under the cabinet range hood, so that I would not have to have a lot of cabinet modifications done.  It was replacing a non functional whirlpool gold range hood.\n\nI had it installed by a general contractor, and one issue with the installation was matching it up to my existing ductwork.  The hood comes with both round and rectangular connections for ductwork, however only the rectangular one has a louvre (flap that prevents air back flow from outside into your home).\n\nMy contractor had to go to a specialty store to get ducting to connect to the louvered connector that came with the fan.  He also had to modify my existing ductwork in the cabinet to get everything to fit.  With all of that being said, the hood works GREAT in operation.  I read some online complaints about the nightlight settings, or that the fan was difficult to operate.\n\nI do not feel it is difficult at all to operate, but it does have more features than simply \"on and off\".  It has nice lighting, and also an ambient light sensor so that, at night, the range hood will have lights on in the kitchen if no other lights are on.  This feature is easy to turn off (but comes defaulted to on, so you have to turn it off if you do not want it).  It has 4 fan speeds, and even at the highest speed is still reasonable on the sound (sones at high are 4.5 I believe).  At the low setting you almost can not hear it at all.  At a normal \"medium\" setting, something you would use when cooking, it is completely acceptable noise wise.\n\nIt does a good job of removing the smells as well, and comes with washable metal filters.\n\nIf you are looking for a range hood that is fairly understated in appearance, but great on functions, and will fit in most places you currently have an under the cabinet range hood, this should be on your short list.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2873, "id": 120391, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 339, "len_tokens": 427, "text": "After having an ancient Maytag work-horse finally die after more than 30 years of loyal trouble-free service, I assumed that a new eco-friendly Maytag would be fantastic.  How wrong I was! This is the worst washing machine I have ever experienced.  It is a piece of junk!  I can't imagine that Maytag is not ashamed to put its name on a machine that is so bad.  It is unbelievably noisy, downright scary, making very loud sawing, creaking, metallic grinding, clicking, alien noises when it is \"sensing\" and \"locking the lid\" and for every other cycle. Although the bin is very large, you can't put much laundry in it since it has to be evenly \"placed\" around the imaginary non-existent agitator in the center.  It supposedly is eco-friendly and does not need much water, but it sadly does not get the clothes clean. It tangles and can rip the clothes.  It does not spin at all if it has a normal size load as the clothes get wet and become too heavy for it to spin at all. Then you can try to use a special \"drain and spin\" cycle, but that also does not work and it still does not spin. If you put in anything like a quilt, dog beds, small cushion, etc. it does not spin at all or starts banging the tub inside against the sides of the washing machine making the loudest, scariest sounds you have ever heard. I am returning it immediately and now will never buy a Maytag again, since they obviously do not care what garbage they are making and selling. This is truly a sad story of a formerly quality brand name of appliances that is \"Made in America\", but is now just awful quality. Calling it a \"WASHING MACHINE\" is not accurate, since it does not wash or spin clothes. Is it really so hard to design a product that actually works?  PLEASE DO NOT BUY THIS TERRIBLE PRODUCT!  I was duped by the brand name.....don't make the same mistake.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2874, "id": 182767, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 339, "len_tokens": 419, "text": "I purchased my GE PHS9252STSS 30\" slide in Induction Range from Pacific Sales after reading Consumer Reports, Gardenweb forums and other reviews.\nI installed it and wired a 4 ft x 4 prong wire so that it could easily fit behind the range (match the colors, black to black, white to white, green to green and pink to red). Also installed the anti-tip bracket to the floor tile.\nI went out and purchased a new 13 piece 18/10 Stainless Steel cookware set from Costco for around $180. The induction burners are great, they heat up very quickly. You can boil water in like 90seconds. Very precise and quick heat control, when you turn it down, within seconds, you can see heat change. Since the new cookware is magnetic, once you lift the pan, the burner will turn off after 20 seconds or so (initially it will blink). This way you can never leave them on accidentally as long as no pan remains on top.\n\nClean up is a snap with Cerama Bryte glass cooktop cleaner once a week, otherwise mild soap and water is enough.\nThe oven does take time to heat up, if you set it for 325C, temperature starts at 100C, changes 1 degree every 10 seconds or so, so expect to wait 8-10minutes. Then it can maintain the temperature easily. It has an electronic beeping sound when your timer is complete or your bake temperature is reached. I wish it was a little louder. Otherwise the oven works great.\n\nYou have to run the self clean cycle the first time for over 3 hours as there is a strange odor from the oven when you use it each time.\n\nI have had the range for a week and both the wife and I love it. The switch from electric to induction was the right move. I did purchase a 5 year extended warranty as the technology is new and did not want to take any chances.\nHighly recommended, paid around $2200 for my range.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2875, "id": 87435, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2876, "id": 124664, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 430, "text": "The drain pump on mom's ol' 1998 GE Signature washer was shot, so I found this vendor on ebay soliciting a new pump at less than half the price of other e-vendors. The subject part wasn't exactly like the old part it replaced, but it was in some ways, better. It had a case enclosing all moving parts where the other didnt. It fit well, without making alterations to anything, or dramatics in trying to fit it in place. It may have been a blem, which explains the bargain basement price, as it didn't appear to have been used at all but the outside of the outlet neck seemed to have been mis-molded as it seemed scuffed or rough on a couple square inch area. Not a problem, the hose fit on it fine and it doesnt leak. the inlet neck sticks out a bit further than the part it replaced; I had to put the hose back on it before I positioned it back in place and bolted it down. A minor inconvenience. The only real issue is that the mounting bracket was not attached and the two screws supplied with the part were too big for the holes drilled into the part. Rather than risking cracking the unit by forcing these too-large screws in place, I went to the spare screw jar and found a couple that were narrower gauged and would screw into the holes pre-drilled in the unit; and long enough to make me feel confident then would hold the bracket on without vibrating loose. If not for the obviously incorrect screws supplied with this product, I would have given a 5-star rating. So far the part seems to be functioning well, mom's happy!! This part was not the exact replacement part but the book said that subject part was a viable alternative and could be used instead. I don't know what the real differences are except subject part has all inner parts encased. the inlet neck is horizontally positioned rather than at a 45 degree angle as with the OEM part. If you have a GE washer made in the past 15 yrs or so, this pump will probably work fine in it as a replacement part.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2877, "id": 335435, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 305, "len_tokens": 401, "text": "First I must comment on the Seller and Shipper\nSeller:  1 Stop Camera and Appliances\nShipper:  Carrier: A and M Trucking 718-272-5900\n\n1 Stop is in NY and I am in AZ.  All the way across the country.  So, of course I am a bit nervous about shipping to my home.  But, A and M did a FANTASTIC job of getting the refrigerator to me.  They notified us of when they where coming and where right in the window of time stated.  They where also very helpful in getting the unit inspected and off the truck.  Much better than most shippers I have worked with.  5 Stars to them!\n\nOn to the refrigerator:\nLikes:  Its big, but does not seem too much deeper in size than my older 25 foot LG that was replaced.  Its about 2-3 inches deeper.  Same width of course.  It was unbelievably well packaged.  Easy to see that LG does not want returns due to shipping issues.\n\nWhat I like:  Very large freezer.  Love the dual ice makers.  In AZ this is always a plus.  Selection board on the front is easy to handle.  Door space inside is great.  Filter is small and out of the way.  In door Ice and Water work very well...\n\nWhat could be better:  Not much, but a few noted items:  Stainless shows finger prints to easy.  Crisper trays for fruits and veggies are odd.. and seem like they could be bigger.  I personally would prefer a larger frig area and smaller freezer, but I have a stand alone freezer already, so freezer space is not a priority in our home.\n\nIn general, the setup was very simple.  Hooking in the water, the filter and getting it all working was minutes.\n\nVery happy with this unit so far and the shipper was great as stated above.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2878, "id": 327924, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 321, "len_tokens": 408, "text": "Danby Bottom Mount Refrigerator\n\nWe bought one of these refrigerator/freezers for our basement bar area.\n\nPros:\n\n- attractive.  Its enameled gloss black steel on the outside with stainless steel [look] doors; inside is white.  Danbys web site says this about the door material: Spotless steel finish - looks identical to real stainless steel but without the smudging\n\n- Energy Star rated (uses 20% less electricity than most units)\n\n- The two thermostatic controls are in the refrigerator section against the back wall, out of the way.\n\n- Frost free.\n\n- Set to 3/4 of maximum cold, the freezer gets down to -20 degrees Fahrenheit.  We couldn't test how cold it would get on maximum since none of our thermometers read lower than 20 below.  We leave it at about 5 below.\n\n- These units work by directly cooling the freezer at the thermostat setting, and then circulating just enough freezer air through the refrigerator section to maintain its thermostatic setting.\n\n- Reasonably designed storage areas.  Milk, orange juice, soda cans, etc., all seem to have their place.  Gallon jugs even fit in the refrigerator door.\n\n- One of the very few small unit designs with the refrigerator section on top.  That was important to us.\n\n- We bought ours with an extended warranty from the Sears web site and picked it up in our SUV (to avoid a delivery charge) from the local Sears store.  Locally purchased refrigerators are MUCH easer to return if they arrive defective or damaged.\n\nCons:\n\n- The two plastic slide-in vegetable crispers in the refrigerator section are cheaply constructed and should have been larger to fully use their allotted space.\n\n- Needed a major repair after two years; three stars off for that.  See Comments for details.\n\nSummary:\n\nWhen new and after the recent repair, this unit is fine.  Due to needing a repair so soon, Id recommend buying an extended warranty or a different brand.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2879, "id": 322365, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 323, "len_tokens": 405, "text": "The price of this Thor Kitchen range was attractive enough that we decided to save money on the purchase of a professional style range.  We quickly regretted the purchase of this range as it had all of the following problems:\n\n  Excessive smoke and a burning smell upon start up.  With the oven set to 450 degrees, a repair man sent by Thor Kitchens documented external temperatures at the back of the stovetop as high as 192 degrees Fahrenheit.  At the front of the unit, temperatures reached 152 degrees F (on the bullnose) and 120 degrees F (by the oven door).  Thor Kitchens says these external temperatures are within specifications.  Will your children or pets be safe from burns with this stove in your house?  You decide.\n  Two failed stovetop burners  one of which was worse after the repair.  The flawed design prevents oxygen from reaching the burner so the flame goes out.  This, in turn, causes the igniters to click incessantly.  After the repair, flame started leaking out from under one of the burners.\n  The igniter for the oven failed and had to be replaced.  Until the igniter was replaced, the oven did not work at all but after it was replaced we ran into the following problem with the oven\n  The oven thermostat would not maintain a consistent temperature.  We kept burning food so we bought an oven thermometer and discovered that the temperature was running about 50-75 degrees F too high and, sometimes, too low.  There is no way to cook successfully with such poor temperature control.\n  We noticed that the shelves inside the oven were not level and, upon inspection, found that one of the brackets was bent thus making it impossible to level the oven shelves.\n\nFar too many features on this unit failed.  So much so that it essentially became a non-functioning 400-pound paper weight that had to be returned.\n\nBuy this unit at your own peril.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2880, "id": 87635, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2881, "id": 461824, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 385, "len_tokens": 498, "text": "I purchased this dryer along with a Maytag washer in May 2010.  Since that time I have had 4 service calls due to dryer malfunctions with a 5th scheduled for this Thursday.  All components of the dryer (thermostat, thermal fuse, etc.) which control drying operations have been replaced at least 1 time, yet it continues to break down.  The only part left is the computer control module.  I've never been one to purchase extended warranties, but with the problems incurred during the 1st year of operation, I'm glad I did.....\n\nObviously, this machine is a lemon - I know it, the repairmen know it, yet Maytag informs me that the machine MAY be replaced after the 3rd service call (under my extended warranty), if that is what THEY chose to do.  I am left with a machine which functions for a month or 2, then breaks down, and then takes a week or 2 for repairs.  In retrospect, I wish that I had bought a top of the line LG dryer instead.  My daughter has been using hers constantly for a large family for 2+ years without any mechanical problems whatsoever.\n\nFollow up:  Finally, after a total of 7 service calls over 15 months, Maytag agreed that this machine (model) was a lemon!  So under the extended warranty, I had 2 options: 1) Replacement with a machine of compatible features, or 2) a cash buy out.  They searched around for a replacement and came up with the same machine that has caused me so many headaches.  On top of that, the \"new\" Maytag would be shipped from the manufacturer directly - I would be responsible for the shipping & haul away charge ($150).  I went for option 2, a $588 buyout.  My $1100 original purchase price was now worth only half!  But I can assure you I will stay far away from replacing my old dryer with a Maytag - it's NOT been a fun experience in any way, shape or form!  In closing, just remember the old Maytag commercial ads on TV - the one where the Maytag repairman is sitting around with nothing to do.  When was the last time you saw that ad??  It was before Maytag was bought out by Whirlpool.  Maytag, as we once knew it, no longer exists!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2882, "id": 193278, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 382, "len_tokens": 484, "text": "I installed this unit a couple of weeks ago and am very pleased with the look and performance.  It looks great and performs even better.  The halogen lights are positioned perfectly for cooking, the 4 speeds and \"automatic\" function work great.  I'm not sure why one would need a remote for a range hood like this, but it's a cool option.  I don't know the grade and gauge of stainless, but it's right up there.  This thing is built like a tank and you'll need another pair of hands to mount it!  Shipping was fast and when I contacted the GV store about a missing remote, they put one in the mail right away.  Some installation tips:\n*I asked in the Q&A section about online installation instructions and there were none.  However, the directions that came with the unit are identical to the ones for Caveliere Hoods found at this link: [...] .... so I'd imagine this hood is branded by more than one company.\n*It does come pre-wired, so all you need is a 120v outlet in the upper cabinet.\n*It is *not* quite 30\" wide, so you'll need to center it prior to mounting and there will be small gaps on both sides.\n*Just like any non-domestic product, you may need to get some better mounting hardware than what is provided.  Take the time to set it up, figure out what you need and spend $8 on the local hardware store.  I picked up some larger stainless bolts, washers and nuts for the 4 mounting locations under the cabinet, then used the 2 bottom holes in the back with heavy-duty wall anchors - probably overkill on the back, but I did it for piece of mind.  They provide a wall-mount bracket, but it won't work if you're mounting this under an existing cabinet.\n*Some people ask about reducing the 8\" exhaust to 6\" or even smaller.  If you're going to do that, why bother spending the $$ on a 900cfm hood if you're only going to get 400cfm out of it.  Save your $ and get something smaller.  They do provide you with an 8\" flex duct, but I tossed that - best to stick with hard pipe to reduce friction and make it easier to clean in the future.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2883, "id": 423993, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 393, "len_tokens": 452, "text": "***EDITED REVIEW***\n\nAfter a successful year of using these two filters I bought another replacement. Remembering the issues I had before (see original review below) I grabbed an old gallon jug and measured TWO gallons of water to absolutely ensure I had cleared out any gunk remaining in the filter from the manufacturing process. After a day or two I filled my water cup and started drinking (first thing in the morning). The water tasted a lot like plastic again. This time it was bad enough that my wife noticed it as well when I had her check it. Refund requested. We'll try a more expensive option and see if we have the same problem.\n\nSeller \"Certified Battery\" requires me to pay for return shipping and will only refund 80% because the item is damaged. Do not buy from them!\n\n***Original Review Below***\nI checked the model number on my refrigerator and searched Amazon for a water filter that would replace it. The description on this filter said it would fit my fridge and the price was way better than the official product replacement. Good shipping, came quick, great price, five stars. One thing to add... I didn't read the directions before installing the filter. It is VERY straight forward, pop the old one out and pop the new one in. There's a little turn involved but that is clearly marked on the bottle. One thing I forgot: you have to clear out or purge the new filter prior to using it. I noticed soon after installation there was a moderately strong plastic-like taste to the water. It didn't get any better the second or third day. Suddenly, I remembered when the guys from the store installed my fridge they ran a bunch of water into a bucket before telling me the water was ready to use. As soon as I remembered that I grabbed a bucket and ran at least 1 gallon out of the system. Plastic taste: gone. Oops. I doubt there were any health repercussions, but I would have preferred not to be drinking weird tasting water for a couple days. By the way, my family did not report noticing the taste, that's how mild it was. So today the water tastes great and I've got a second filter on standby when this one expires in a few months.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2884, "id": 210933, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 318, "len_tokens": 412, "text": "I only give a 4 star rating because the spin dryer is incredibly small, but the washer appears larger than advertised. However this leads to spending quite a long time spin drying your wash-load piece by piece. Thus, I'm considering purchasing the Laundry Alternative spin-dryer which seems like it can hold a larger load to spin dry.\n\nI've only used both aspects of the unit once, but the washer seems incredibly powerful and washes clothing really well. I like that it lacks a center pin to tear your clothing or get trapped/ wrapped around. This unit seems much better than their previous model with clear, blue, plastic siding. The previous model looks incredibly flimsy, this newer unit looks and feels very sturdy. I worry about the hosing on the new model, which might need to eventually be replaced. The hosing seems so soft and flimsy.\n\nWarning: The unit gives off a powerful, acrid, plastic, chemical smell. It is incredibly pungent. Hopefully whatever it is will off-gas soon. My apartment smells pretty bad.\n\nUPDATED REVIEW:\nMarch 10, 2013\nI have used the machine consistently for the past few months. No complaints, besides the speed of the spin dryer seems to have decreased. I'll probably have to purchase The Laundry Alternative spin dryer which is 2-3x as fast and will leave my clothes pretty dry. I don't use a tumble dryer, just a bamboo folding clothes rack. My clothes dry really well overnight.\n\nThings I have been able to wash:\nSeparately: Mattress cover (Queen Sized Mattress), Fitted Sheet (Queen Sized Mattress), Non-fitted Sheet (Queen Sized Mattress).\nI have also washed 2-3 sweaters at a time (considered a full load). This depends on their thickness and how much water they absorb. As for jeans/ pants, I've been able to wash 2-3 in a load. It all depends on how thick the fabric is and how much water it'll absorb.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2885, "id": 453772, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 351, "len_tokens": 465, "text": "How this company stays in business is beyond me, far beyond. Our never-very-reliable-they-came-with-the-house washer and dryer finally collapsed under the weight of our laundry, it was time for a new set. My wife researched every option on the net, from Kenmore to a washboard and tub, before deciding on the Duet series by Whirlpool. We waited 2 weeks for delivery (we were quoted 1). The washer arrived without its better half, the dryer. No one at Whirlpool knew why. Washer is not much use without its sidekick, dryer. Two weeks later Whirlpool delivered a dryer with a shattered door and a dent. Oops. Backorder, 2 more weeks and the glorious dryer sans broken door arrives! We installed it according to Whirlpools specs, admired how beautiful the pair looked side by side, and triumphantly shoved our first batch of accumulating dirty clothes in for a ride. And then, nothing. The dryer switched on, buzzed, whirred, the lights blinked on and off several times and, nothing. After my wife and I spent several hours bickering about the manual and 'you must of done something wrong' I called Whirlpool. The service tech agreed that something was indeed wrong, and dispatched service. Two weeks later service arrives and detirmines that we need 3 new parts for the never-been-used new Duet dryer. \"I'll order these parts and be back on Tuesday\". Did I mention the pile of dirty clothes threatening to crush my wife and I? This morning we received a call from service, one of the new parts we need for the never-been-used new dryer is on backorder until mid-August. Does anyone even sell clothespins anymore? The neighbors will be thrilled to see that hillbillies have moved into our yard when the clothesline goes up. Don't do it, don't drown in the Whirlpool, save yourself, save your money. If you purchase a Whirlpool dryer, don't forget to stop at the bank on your way home and pick up some rolls of quarters. Your going to need them for the local laundrymat. Bring a book to read and avoid eye contact with strangers. Thanks Whirlpool.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2886, "id": 87763, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2887, "id": 87891, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2888, "id": 471270, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 383, "len_tokens": 480, "text": "This washing machine is a great example of penny-wise, pound-foolish.  You might purchase it because you want to save a few bucks, or because you cannot afford anything else.  You might think you're getting a great deal, and you don't need one of those new-fangled, fancy, expensive washing machine.  Let me ask you two questions:\n\n1.  Do you want a washing machine that washes clothes?\n2.  Do you want a washing machine that destroys your laundry?\n\nIf you answered YES to 1 and NO to 2, then the Estate is not the machine for you.  (If however you answered the other way, I just might have a wonderful deal to offer you....)\n\nThis washing machine is a hunk of junk.  It goes through the motions of washing (loudly) but doesn't actually clean anything.  I'm not certain how it manages to do that.  Our repairman bypassed the water sensor that used to keep the washer from getting more than its preferred few inches of water, which helped at least rinse off obvious hunks of grit and grime.  (Before that, everything came out actually dirtier than when it went in -- wow.)  So now the clothes at least do get sort of rinsed off, and our detergent has a chance to work, but somehow, nothing gets clean.  It's not the detergent, as we're still using the same brand we had before with our old washer (which died after many years of good service).\n\nThe latest problem is that every few loads, things come out with small holes in them.  The problem is not bleach, an obvious culprit in laundry holes, or a sharp object lodged inside the washing machine (we checked).  Next, large chunks started ripping out of various laundry items.  It's time to get a new washer -- only four months after wasting money on this one.\n\nI strongly urge anyone contemplating a purchase of the Estate washing machine to wait until another, better model goes on sale.  Don't try to save money by buying this -- you won't.  We have wasted countless dollars on our water bill by having to wash loads multiple times, not to mention the linens and clothing we now need to replace.  Do yourself a favor and bypass the Estate.  It is a time and money pit.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2889, "id": 394842, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 346, "len_tokens": 435, "text": "I like the Large Stainless Steel Basin.  I read reviews where it was greasy, but just read directions when you install it and it wipes out really easy.  No stains on my clothes.  The basin is deep so if you are shorter than me at 5'2\" then it might be hard to reach the bottom. I can wash much bigger loads than before, even 9 to 10 towels in one load.  It gets my clothes clean.  The reason I gave 4 stars is because it is a little noisy.  That isn't a big deal for me since my washer is in the basement, but I wouldn't want it near my kitchen.  It is still quieter than my previous washer that this is replacing.  Also a plus,  MADE IN USA.  Great quality for great price!\n\n7/21/14- I had to edit my previous review.  I would drop it one star because of the delicate cycle.  I wash lots of delicates and this washer does NOT drain out all of the water on the delicate cycle.  I would try 3 times in a row spinning it on delicate cycle with no luck.  If I do delicates in this washer, then I have to spin it again with a different cycle.\n\nFall 2014-January 2015- I again had to edit previous review and lower this to 2 stars now.  WHY YOU ASK?  Because, it started squeaking and then had a burning rubber smell.  I called the company and it was still under the 2 year warranty. They had me call a local certified service agent.  The technician came to my house about 4 times to try to fix it.  At first he put on a new belt and then tried other things.  He ended up replacing everything except the motor itself.  It works now and I am lucky it was under warranty still. I don't know if others have this problem also or if I got a lemon.  I like it for regular and permanent press cycles and it still leaves less lint on clothes than my other washer.  GOOD LUCK!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2890, "id": 217832, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 378, "len_tokens": 443, "text": "I was worried that this wouldn't perform as well as that other model they discontinued. I'm glad other people reviewed it because I finally bit the bullet and ordered a mini washer and spin dryer (this one). I washed a pair of boxers and wrung them as much as humanly possible... and then put them in this thing.\n\nFirst thing to note: this thing is really really quiet, aside from the initial startup which is 100% fine, coming from a picky person like myself. Once it starts you just have to stand with it for 5 seconds until it stabilizes.\n\nSecondly, I was worried about the RPM but they address on their site that this is as efficient as the one no longer in stock, even with lower RPM. And not that I've ever tried the other one, but I'm totally satisfied with this... after wringing my boxers out, the Spin dryer still got out like the equivalent of the top of a peanut butter jar filled with water, which is pretty good for how well I wrung that thing out. I can imagine it would get out more with general usage, more clothes, etc. I was able to put those boxers on within an hour or 2.\n\nSo, yeah. Portable, quiet, efficient. The electric cord is pretty small... I don't know how safe it is to be using extension cords with things like these, but make sure wherever you want to operate this has a cord near it (or if you can safely use an extension cord, not sure but if you can then do that). The handle is very nice and makes moving it very easy. Drainage with this one IMO is better than the previous model... instead of having some cheap pipe, you can just put a larger bowl or container in front of the unit and it will catch the water, then you can just dump it out in the sink (or just run it in the sink, or run it next to the sink and have it drain out directly in there.\n\nI'm satisfied with my purchase. No more trips to the laundromat, and I think spin drying your clothes is more gentle on them, which is a plus for me.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2891, "id": 482883, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 345, "len_tokens": 429, "text": "We bought this washer 15 months ago thinking we were getting a quality product as it was a \"Whirlpool\".  I admit we should have done more research but our 15 year old Kenmore had finally died so we were in a bind and bought quickly.  The washer has never been abused (it still looks brand new) and has been used in a normal fashion.  Two months ago it became very loud while spinning.  We called service and the bad news is it needs new bearings and a new tub assembly - price $364! We called Whirlpool hoping they would help us out but they told us there was \"nothing they could do for us\" - thanks for nothing Whirlpool.\n  There is no way this washer should need these repairs after only 15 months of normal usage.  This thing is a piece of crap - I so wish I could go back in time and NOT buy it.  Lesson learned - do your research before buying!\n  Too further compound this sad affair, we have been waiting for the parts to be successfully delivered.  The tub assembly is shipped in a thin cardboard box with NO packing material.  We have had two assemblies delivered (UPS) and both have arrived damaged and unusable.  We are patiently waiting for the third to arrive this coming week.  I realize that it is mostly UPS's fault but really Whirlpool, no packing material, just a thin box???  Gee, what could go wrong while being shipped across country?\n  If the tub assembly again arrives damaged, I'm ready to chuck this piece of crap out.  It infuriates me that a practically new machine is built so poorly that it can't make it past 15 months without a major repair.  This time I'll do a ton of research - started looking around already and Speed Queen seems like a good option.\n  In conclusion, don't buy this product - you WILL be sorry.  I will NEVER buy another Whirlpool product again.  My old Kenmore lasted 15 years - Whirlpool couldn't even make 2 years.  Complete garbage.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2892, "id": 326292, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 385, "len_tokens": 482, "text": "The Caribbean Appliance Frigidaire Door Latch & Switch Assembly (for Front Loading washers) is 100% as good as advertised. It completely fixed our Frigidaire Affinity washing machine and saved us from a $90 service call + $75 part.\n\nPros:\nThis product is advertised at a substantially better price point (here) than most other retailers, appliance shops, or from the manufacturer.  We purchased the product to resolve \"Error Code 41\" or \"E41\" service code and it did exactly that.  The washing machine originally stopped functioning during its spin cycle -- initial troubleshooting revealed the E41 code on the display.\n\nSteps I followed to replace the original unit:\nStep 1 - Unplug the washing machine (also remove any access water that might splash)\nStep 2 - Open the washer door and use needle-nose pliers to remove the thin, metal wire clamp & spring from the boot seal\nStep 3 - Peel back the boot seal near the latch assembly area\nStep 4 - Remove the two (2) screws holding the door latch in place\nStep 5 - Insert hand behind the boot seal area, grab the door latch assembly, pull it out, and disconnect the wires (3 sets)\nStep 6 - Insert your new latch assembly (might be a slightly different color than the original -- this is OK) and reattach the wires\nStep 7 - Insert the original two (2) screws to hold the new latch in place, replace boot seal, replace wire clamp & spring\nStep 8 - Plug washer back-in and test it out on Spin Cycle\n\nCons:\nNone -- keep in mind that this replacement product might be colored a little different than the original manufacturer's latch kit. This is completely OK and does not affect the functionality of the product.\n\nOverall:\nThe E41 error is often caused by corrosive build-up on the internal soldering joints of the original Door Latch & Switch Assembly mechanism. You can absolutely remove the unit, open it up, and use small wire brushes or picks to scrape off the joints in an attempt to repair it without purchasing this product.  That being said, this price point is to good to pass up for a guaranteed long-lasting fix that comes with an optional extended warranty -- I highly recommend it. Do-it-yourself fix. No Service Call required. 5 Stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2893, "id": 98525, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 364, "len_tokens": 433, "text": "I have nothing new to offer in this review, because other reviewers have already said it all. My goal is to further drive down the rating for the Frigidaire Gallery dishwasher which I will be replacing after 11 months because it fails to clean my dishes. When I say it fails, I mean it fails in every possible way. The cycle runs forever, it makes loud LOUD noises while it runs, and almost invariably my glasses are filled with scuzzy detritus that is caked on to the inside of them after the cycle.\n\nAs a general word of warning to other potential Frigidaire buyers... I bought the entire \"Gallery\" set (fridge, dishwasher, oven ,and built in microwave). They are gorgeous to look at, but I have complaints with the entire line. As these are midrange appliances, I was really expecting for general engineering problems (that should have been solved since the 1960's) to not exist. But as I said before, the dishwasher fails to function in even the most basic ways (actually making the dishes dirtier). The ice and water dispenser on the fridge is either too slow  in the case of the water) or too fast (in the case of the ice) which means that if anyone uses it there ends up being water dripped and splashed all around.\n\nThe oven has a gap and vent in the door that allows in drips or spills to end up INSIDE the oven window in an uncleanable location. After the kids cookie baking led to a drip inside the oven window I had to disassemble the entire oven door to clean it. The oven also takes an incredibly long time to heat up to its target temperature.\n\nThe microwave is (like the rest of the set) beautiful, but from an engineering standpoint there are just poorly considered design elements. It should not take going through three menu options to reach the clock set function. A minor thing granted, but my overall disappointment has driven me to scrutinizing why the whole set fails.\n\nThis was my first complete matching set of appliances and I am hugely disappointed. I will avoid Frigidaire on principle forever.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2894, "id": 405044, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 377, "len_tokens": 428, "text": "So, I looked at a bunch of other ice makers. I really wanted one that made clear ice because the aerated ice in most makers melts too quickly and I don't like the texture. Since I didn't like what I was seeing in many of the other reviews, I took a shot on this one with no reviews and figured I would return it if I didn't like it. Luckily that was not the case. This one really did the job, the ice is perfect in little cubes with rounded indents (like many hotel ice makers). I liked is so much I ordered a second one.\n\nThree things to be aware of:\n1. When you first plug it in and turn the power button on, if you hold the power button down for 5 seconds it will allow the water to run longer making thicker cubes that melt slower. It takes about 3 minutes more per tray, but worth it in my opinion.\n\n2. The reason I did not give it 5 stars - Occasionally the ice will fail to fallout of the freezing tray and make one giant block of ice. It happens more than I would like, but it is easy to fix. Hold the power button for 5 seconds and it will heat the freezing tray so the blocks will start to melt and slide out. This would probably happen less if I wasn't making the more solid ice, but I prefer the trade off.\n\n3. It is fairly loud (as are all of these ice makers). Good news is, once the tray is full it maybe only runs for 10 minutes every two hours to replenish the ice that has melted. Just don't put it anywhere that the whirring fan for that time will be a problem.\n\nTwo other things you might find interesting, I have been using 12 oz plastic bottles of spring water to fill it. It took about 6 bottles to fill the reservoir the first time and few more bottles after it started making ice.\n\nIt comes with a little white, plastic ice scooper that is fine for the job but feels kind of cheap so I ordered an aluminum one from amazon for about 4 bucks.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2895, "id": 57963, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 397, "len_tokens": 470, "text": "So I bought this with mixed expectations, even with all of the positive reviews. Little did I know what a HUGE difference it would make. First, I watched the video and looked over the manual (realistically its simple enough you almost don't need to, but I'm not to big on home repair so it was a good thing I checked it out). Simple process explained - attach cleaning thing to end, keep feeding in rods connected to drill and having it rotate clockwise (I'm guessing so those rods don't unscrew halfway to your dryer). Now I have the hard dryer vent duct stuff or whatever you call it (although the last 2 feet to the dryer is aluminum - used to be vinyl - big hazard) so I didn't worry too much about being a little rough. Also, I don't have any short run from the outside to the dryer, it's about 30 feet or more of snaking tube going from the back of my house to the front of the basement. So, I did buy the extra extension kit thing for a total of 8 rods. I don't own a shop vac, so I had to go with the plan that ends with the dryer blowing the lint out of the back of my house. Messy, but my fault for not planning, whatever, should have gotten the lint trap bag thing they sell (actually I did get it, but forgot). Well anyways, as I started lint just started SHOOTING out of the exhaust in clumps. I had no idea, the lady who owned the place before me must have never cleaned it. Piles and piles of clumped up lint. Finished from the outside, disconnected the dryer, went downstairs and did it from the basement, reconnected the dryer, way more lint comes flying out.\n\nAs a test I did a load of sheets. Now these were taking 3+ hours to dry before and still coming out a little damp. I watched how long they took to dry... 1 hour, 15 minutes!!!! I was so surprised. I didn't expect a difference like that. Needless to say - this thing is AWESOME. I have no idea how much money that will save me in gas, but the time savings alone is amazing.\n\nSo my recommendation - if you're dryer is taking too long - BUY THIS!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2896, "id": 211512, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 384, "len_tokens": 470, "text": "I purchased this to avoid having to go the laundromat and have been very pleased.\n\nGood Things\n-It's small and convenient\n-It's light enough to move alone when empty\n-It's surprisingly effective\n\nBad Things\n-The \"Lint Trap\" isn't great. If you want to launder an item that has a large amount of lint and don't intend to run it through a dryer with a good lint filter then you should prepare to find another way to remove lint.\n\nOther things\n-A buzzer would be a nice addition to this unit.\n\nTips\n-Find out how long it takes to fill your device with hot cold and warm water (yes, test each one individually. Odds are your flow rate is dependent on temperature of water). Use those times as a guidline for filling times so you do not have to watch it patiently.\n-Weight matters more than size. Heavy items can weigh the agitator at the bottom down and if the clothes aren't spinning somewhat aggressively they won't get clean. If you are unsure of how much to load, fill the tub and add your soap and start the wash cycle. Keeping the lid open begin slowly feeding in clothing items one at a time allowing for the agitator to reverse directions and assuring that the clothes are still moving aggressively before each new addition. If the movement slows and doesn't return after 2 or 3 agitator reversals then you have put in too much and should take something out (you can pop it into the spin dryer tub while it waits)\n-When the spin dryer is on the unit wobble a bit and can be noisy depending on the surface the unit is on. I have this unit on a metal shelf and have taken to keeping a folded towel underneath it to lessen noise and help prevent the unit from wandering when it wobbles.\n-For people concerned about the size of the unit, some loads I wash often look like: My sheets (both fitted and flat) and pillowcases in one load; 3-4 pairs of khakis at once; 1-2 pairs of jeans at once ; 4-6 button down shirts at a time; 2-4 polos at once(weight dependent); 1-2 bath towels at once (if washing a bath sheet it can only handle one)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2897, "id": 41619, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 370, "len_tokens": 436, "text": "Update to below: [I can now attest to the longevity of the dishwasher. I ended up buying that extra dishwasher for my cousins. They used it more than myself, and soon their window began to leak, and completely soaked their countertop and floor. So, they called in to the manufacturer and let's just say they totally gave them the run around. They bought a regular portable dishwasher, and tried to hide it from me because it was a gift. Just several months after theirs leaked, ours did also. They recommended we give up on it, and not try to fix it. I kept it and put it away, I might buy some epoxy sealant to fix it later. I think it's a cool machine. I was surprised at how well it cleaned, but these things are just ridiculous to leak so soon and consistantly. If I could I would change the star to a 1, because this money could have been spent on a good dishwasher from the get-go.]\n\nI cannot attest to the longevity of this dishwasher, but I have had one for almost a month. It makes my life easier, I didn't have to fool with anything major. I needed something quick, easy, convenient, and something that was small. I didn't want to be wasteful and have a full sized dishwasher, because I really only need a small one. This has worked perfectly. I basically use the \"Rapid\" cycle which is the shortest wash cycle available. I haven't had any problems with the dishes being unclean. I also believe it does not use much power if you use rapid cycle. It doesn't really heat the water up much until you select a more intense cycle. I did however put in a cast iron skillet and used the ultra-hot intense wash cycle, and that sucker came clean! I have a family member wanting one, so I am about to order a second one for them.\n\nIt seems like some dude in China built a million of these things, and then put them into circulation and closed up. I mean, they put out this crap item, EVERYONE has experienced problems with, then there is no customer support. Such a shame.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2898, "id": 12013, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 354, "len_tokens": 430, "text": "I had a non-working switch in my newly purchased condo.  It was terribly annoying to walk into the room, hit the switch and have nothing happen.  And before you think of telling me to check the outlets - I did.  No outlets worked with the switch either.  It simply was there for show only - no wires were connected.  After asking some home repair people, I learned that adding wiring after the fact was a large project.  This switch solved the problem very inexpensively and with no workmen - only a screwdriver, a wire cutter and about 10 minutes of my time.  I did get a friend with a voltage-tester to make sure there was nothing live in the wires.  Then I removed the old switch by unscrewing the switch plate and cutting the dead wires.  This little switch fit right where the bad one was.\n\nA note to GE: 5 minutes of the 10 was spent opening the very hard plastic these products were packaged in.  Whoever invented that stronger-than-steel, environmentally unfriendly plastic should be taken out to the woodshed and SHOT!\n\nThe second part of this was even easier.  I plugged the receptor into an open outlet, plugged a lamp into that and made sure the numbers agreed on the two devices (so they could talk).  And Voila!  It worked the very first time!  I also found the directions easy to follow, which is rare these days.\n\nThis was so much fun, I started getting ideas.  I now have a switch upstairs that turns on a light in the kitchen, so I can turn it on at night if I decide to go down for a snack and don't want to turn on the hall light.  I have a list of other things I want to switch from unusual places.  It works even if there is a chair in the way - totally cool!!!\n\nI'm always showing it off, because I feel so smart for solving the problem myself for practically no money.  I can't think of anything (other than the package) I didn't absolutely love! It was the perfect solution!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2899, "id": 282580, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 368, "len_tokens": 426, "text": "Purchased this item and 8 months later it is useless.\n\nWas very excited to get this and hopeful that the days of buying ice would be over!  For the first week it was so neat - a little noisy, and the ice cubes melted incredibly fast - but then, what do expect when they all have holes in them...  So there are these rods, and they get super cold, enough to freeze the water around them - so you have these little playing dice sized cubes with a hole in the middle, where the rod was.\n\nMelted REALLY fast, and always kind of watery - the bin wasn't cold enough to keep them frozen for long at all, but it was okay for what we needed... for a bit...\n\nThe bin and all the parts inside started getting moldy SUPER fast.  We figured with constant use we could go maybe a week without shutting it down and doing a thorough cleaning - but no, we ended up just using the ice to keep the sodas cold.  I wouldn't put ice from this machine inside my drink now for anything - there are too many tiny areas that are too difficult to get to and I could never get it completely clean.\n\nBut still - it kept our drinks cold, we were okay.\n\nThen today - the red light indicating the bin was full went on, and the bin wasn't full.  We've tried everything, gone online and researched it, and basically what we're being told is to just call it dead.  While we might be able to get the manufacturer to repair/replace, we would have to pay the shipping and some kind of co-pay that would make it much more worthwhile to put the money towards a better one and call the bit we paid for this one - a valuable learning experience.\n\nLearn from our mistakes. :)  Also, I encourage everyone to wait a year before reviewing appliance-type purchases.  Lots of things that work great for the first while end up as doorstops, and I think a year is a fair trial to see if the item you bought possesses true quality or not.  Just a thought. :)", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2900, "id": 88555, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2901, "id": 219264, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 329, "len_tokens": 454, "text": "Finding a good/adequate wine cooler/fridge is so frustrating. This is the 2nd product I've tried. I first tried the Danby wine cooler and it could not cool down far enough for proper storage of wine. So then I elected to try this AKDY. I have tried to turn it ALL the way down to \"46\" which is its lowest setting, however, after 5 days it still just shows \"49\" on the controls, despite the fact I have selected \"46\" several times now.\n\nAs far as what temperature it ACTUALLY cools down to, that's disappointing as well. I have 3 thermometers inside the fridge - at top, middle, and bottom. The coolest it's gotten is at the bottom where it's measured at 54 degrees, which is actually an acceptable temperature. However, the middle of the fridge comes in at 59 degrees and the top of the fridge cannot cool beyond 61 degrees. Not only is that high of a temp unacceptable for my wine storage (storing both whites and reds), but one would expect that *such* a small fridge could maintain a reasonably similar temperature throughout the fridge, right? Well, it cannot. There is always a 6-7 degree in temperature variance from the top to the bottom of the fridge. Really disappointing.\n\nIf anyone knows of a wine fridge/cooler that can actually maintain around 49-54 degrees throughout, please let me know! I've ordered a 3rd unit to try and will see how it goes - the next one I'm trying is a thermo-electric unit by Titan: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U0XBN5I?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00\n\nThe only pros to this item is that it has a small footprint, is clean-looking / attractive / simple, is quiet, and uses thermo-electric cooling (which is good for cooling wines bc it doesn't cause the vibrations that normal compressor-cooled fridges cause, which can ruin your wine!).\n\nSo if you do try this unit - be *sure* to get some fridge thermometers so you can see where actual temps are reading!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2902, "id": 56983, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 362, "len_tokens": 478, "text": "We've been buying from Amazon for years: our first review, a rave. Definite buy.\n  We live and work in an old New England farmhouse. My wife's acupuncture practice is on the first floor, our apartment on the second. Our second-floor dryer is vented through the ceiling into the attic, then along joists, and finally out the side wall. It's a run of 19 feet! Too long by far, but this 1850's house wasn't designed for a dryer on any floor.\n  When we got the LintEater we also bought the 12' extension kit, so we have 24' of rods. The LintEater and extensions worked well together. If you have a long run, buy the extensions at the outset.\n  We last had our piping cleaned by a chimney sweep company in summer 2012. That cost $159. We paid a little less than $50 for both. We were way overdue for cleaning, so we figure we saved almost $320 (minus their cost).\n  User notes: The printed instructions are clear. There is video instruction too. Our piping is all PVC. The rotary brush and rods had to turn two 90 degree corners; they did so without a hitch.  Note: make sure to ONLY spin the rods clockwise even when withdrawing them, otherwise they'll decouple and you'll have rods in your piping.  (For non-instruction followers, they also sell a rod extraction tool. ;-)\n  Also, we used a slightly different method. We fed the rotary cleaner in and out, then put our narrow vac wand into the pipe opening, vacuumed what we could, then withdrew the wand, added the next rod, connected the drill and fed the whole thing back in. Repeated. Using this sort of back-and-forth \"sawing\" system we gradually added enough rods to clear the entire 19 feet.\n  BTW, while we knew we had waited too long to do this, we were still amazed at the amount of slightly damp, condensed, lint goo we extracted. We just did a test wash and dry: drying time was almost half what it had been. Sweet!\n  As an amateur carpenter, I appreciate good tools. This is a good tool. Buy it, use it, take care of it...save money.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2903, "id": 469399, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 338, "len_tokens": 429, "text": "I looked at the reviews on Amazon; people either love or hate this washer, and now I think I know why. If you load it according to the instructions, it works beautifully. It's just as I suspected: The people who hate it, are, I think, loading it wrong or overloading it. Even when I load it properly--which doesn't SEEM to be as many clothes as my old washer would take--I find that I'm actually getting more clothes into it than I got into my old \"super-capacity\" washer. It's just that you have to load it so that there's some room left down the center.\n\nAlso, the other reviews talk about clothes getting all twisted together, ripping buttons off, etc. Same thing: they must be loading it wrong/overloading. Not a single problem here.\n\nIt sounds different, but I got used to that in a day. And my Arm&Hammer detergent is good for it. The heavy settings take a little longer to wash than my old one, but the light settings are actually quicker. Which is all meaningless to me. I don't sit around and wait for it to finish anyway.\n\nOh, yes: it's very important that it be leveled properly: not just sit without rocking, level. But I've always done that with washers anyway. It has a hyper-speed spin setting that needs a level washer; but for most wash modes you can turn the hyper-speed down to regular speed anyway, and it doesn't seem to make much difference in how well it spins out the water.\n\nDrawbacks are that it still shakes a little at the hyper-speed spin setting, though it doesn't \"walk\" at all; and the \"your load's done\" beeps at the end can't be turned off. The annoying beeps when you press the setting-buttons can be turned off, but the beeps at the end can't. (The saving grace is that they're not very loud. I just don't like being nagged.) Also you have to load a little more carefully and evenly; you can't just dump stuff in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2904, "id": 66932, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 399, "len_tokens": 476, "text": "My wife had been complaining (and probably running up our electric bill significantly) for the last few months about it taking 3 cycles to dry towels.\n\nWe've got the most bizarre dryer vent around.  It goes down in the laundry room floor for 3 feet, then under the slab foundation for 18 feet, then back up in the exterior wall for 4 feet where it exits in the brick outside.  She called around and was quoted $150-200 for a duct company to come out and clean our dryer vent.  I immediately started searching for a better way and discovered this product and ordered it, along with the extensions.\n\nFollowing the instructions, I hooked up my vacuum inside while trying to go outside with the brush, extension and drill.  The unit made the first 90degree turn easily to go down 4 feet, but unfortunately, could not make the second 90degree turn to continue under the slab.  I actually twisted up my second rod and ruined one segment.  Regrouping, I instead took my leaf blower/vac and duct taped the vacuum side of it to the vent outside.  Going inside, I inserted the rod and brush and stretched down with my arm to make the first 90degree turn below the laundry room with my arm.  From there I continued adding segments cleaning towards the outside until I reached that last 90 turn in the exterior wall.  I knew I could go no further so accepted it as done.  I also used the thinner brush to clean inside the dryer itself as far as it would reach and pulled out a lot...a lot of lint.\n\nMy shop vac did not have the same hose size as the attachment that came with the unit so I had to re-engineer the connection using duct tape to get a tight fit, but then found that my leaf vac had much more suction power and opted to use it instead, in my own configuration, not exactly matching anything they suggested in their book or DVD.  The DVD accompanying the product is actually very clear with recommended alternatives.\n\nIrregardless of my difficulties due to the insane duct design, my wife did a huge load of towels and wow, it made all the difference.  One cycle and dry!  And you wouldn't believe what was sucked out of the duct!!!\n\nIt's amazing what can make a wife happy these days!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2905, "id": 458197, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 351, "len_tokens": 401, "text": "Hood looks beautiful and the double lights are great.  The black plastic on the sides looks good and makes this a lot easier to clean than a hood that's all stainless steel surface.  Having the underside fully enclosed by the filters is also a great feature - very little surface that has to be cleaned underneath.  It's also extremely nice having the extra several inches of space since the hood is so slim.\n\nThe fan is barely audible on the normal setting.  It's loud on the high setting, but nothing like the old one we replaced so no an issue.  Normal usually is enough keep the steam and any smoke clear so I've only used the highest setting once.  There doesn't seem to be much difference between the two light settings.  The two lights are bright enough that I don't have to use my overhead lighting when these are on.\n\nIt is a heavy unit - you'll probably need two people to install it.  We had a hard time getting a piece of the fan to fit in correctly, but eventually figured it out.  One of the light bulbs was shattered and we couldn't tell if the other one worked because both have to be installed in order for the light to function.  Amazon refunded the replacement cost immediately (you can find the bulbs on Amazon for a great price and the replacements arrived in perfect condition).  There are little metal rings in the filters that you put your finger in and push to pop the filter in and out.  One of the rings came out but my husband was able to flatten the little tabs out and get it back in place and working.\n\nIf you're replacing an old hood that is taller, make sure your backsplash will still cover the exposed area.  Mine is about an inch short after removing an old 6 inch tall hood (but the whole thing is being replaced so I didn't care).\n\nI'm giving it four because it wasn't perfect out of the box, but I would definitely buy this on again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2906, "id": 133686, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 425, "len_tokens": 493, "text": "Seems to be fine. Our old one that came with the fridge didn't seem to be slow when the water was coming out so I never thought it needed changing after the change water sign came out on the control panel. Apparently, it's a timer that measures 6 months time I believe.  Whether you use a lot of water and ice or don't, everyone's change filter alert cones out at The same time. Mine is a Samsung fridge. So I took the filter out to look at it and figure out which to order here online.  I must've not put it back correctly because there was leakage that I thought was just table spoons and contained to the under the crisper area. That was until I noticed my new wood floors getting warped.  After much investigation I found The water had made its way down and then trickled over each one of the front rolling wheels.  I thought the leaking was due to the filter being more than 6 months old but it wasn't. When I replaced it with one of these new ones and followed the directions carefully there was a suction sound I hadn't heard before and that's how I knew I had put it in wrong the first time. Confirmed by the fact that there was no more pools of water. So both my old filter and this new one fit fine. Make sure you insert and lock it correctly. What I'm still baffled about is why both filters had the same water flow speed if one is \"too old\". I'm ok with the speed but at one point during the cleaning flushing the filter that they recommend it did at one point pour water forecefully.  It may have been that the filter was still filling with water.  I would've preferred if the water continue to flow that way but that's okay, it's not as if it's too slow now, it still fills a small glass in less than 15 seconds.  The only thing that gets me is the different codes on these filters. I made sure, although the labels don't look identical, that they do have the same filtering specs.  Be careful as other filters being offered for less (may have different brand or incorrect spelling) may not be cleaning the same things off the water as the filter that came with your fridge.  I'm going to leave mine in for a year as we don't use it as much as a bigger family would . I still have two left.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2907, "id": 90005, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 361, "len_tokens": 417, "text": "I can do a direct comparison with the Cigar Oasis and Hydra LG since I just bought both recently. I initially bought the Cigar Oasis plus and then this.\n\nThe Cigar Oasis: No way to run extra fans on the new models as the ribbon cable and power ports have changed and no longer compatible with Hydra fan kits. No audible alarm. Otherwise works well and constructed well (both at China made so not super quality but both comparable)\n\nHydra-LG: I wanted the Hydra small but it was not available from Amazon directly and I like buying directly from amazon so I bought the large. Glad I did. Its pretty big so I have to take out a bottom shelf. You need minimum 5\" height. I bought the Hydra as I wanted to run two extra fans to circulate the air, humidity rises and I had quite a difference from top to bottom. I love the fact that you have a choice to run the fans continuously or only when the Hydra Humi fans come on. I opted for the second option for now. I love the remote with display also the fact that there is a on/off button which Cigar Oasis does not. Its very sensitive and comes on quickly and silently. I did have to calibrate it a little it was showing 3% higher humidity and it was easy to calibrate. I just put it next to my Extect Calibrated Pshycrometer and adjusted after a while.\nI placed the two extra fans on the second top shelf in the back at an 45deg angle one pushing air down and other up for now. They are working well. I will adjust things as needed. So my vote is for the Hydra and don't waste your money on Cigar Oasis for a large Humidor, lets hope it lasts.\n\nLastly the cigar oasis build quality seems slightly better than Hydra and the sensor is easily recognized on the CO, on the Hydra no idea where the sensor is. I called support and they didn't know either. At least Hydra has a support number to call CO has no support number to call.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2908, "id": 182679, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 393, "len_tokens": 489, "text": "This product was supposed to take advantage of using less water and at the same time be a top-loading washer. Front loading washers use gravity to assist in washing and circulating the water through the clothing. The engineers of this product \"hoped\" that their use of a small center \"agitator\" would \"swish\" the soapy water through the clothing, and also allow the clothes basket to \"wobble\" thereby assisting in water movement.\n\nNice try.\n\nIt didn't work. No even close. The water is engineered not to even cover the clothes. The clothing sits in a basket of barely moving water, and only the bottom of the clothing gets wet. They tried to mask this defect by an extreme spin cycle, which squeezed every last bit of water out of the clothing. Most of the very long process is spinning.\n\nIt is true that the clothing comes out very well spun, but still dirty. According to Whirlpool, you are not supposed to wash sheets at the same time as other clothing. That is correct. If you try, the sheets gather up the clothing into a snug cocoon, and the agitator  batters the cocoon on the side of the agitator for 50 minutes. When it starts to spin, as you guessed, it is an unbalanced load, and must be dissected apart.\n\nIf you try to wash a comforter or blanket, they will sit, not even covered with water, almost unmoving in the tub. You might just as well put your laundry into a large tub in the back yard and just let it sit. Oh yes, and don't cover it with water, either. On the plus side, it uses very little water. But it doesn't wash your clothes either.\n\nObviously I don't like this machine. I kept it a week and paid a restocking fee of 90 dollars (gladly) to get rid of it. I am still buying a Whirlpool front loader. I guess I am crazy, but it is labeled a \"Maytag.\"\n\nI guess you could say that this was a disaster. I wish I had read more reviews before I bought it. Don't buy this machine, unless you just want to soak your unmoving clothes in a tub of water that doesn't even cover a half of it. If it were possible to not give this even one star, I would do it.\n\nGarbage.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2909, "id": 103815, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 406, "len_tokens": 474, "text": "I bought this model to replace a prior bosch dishwasher that lasted 13 years of everyday use. This model does everything my last model did and more. I rarely do any pre-wash on the dishes and I have yet to have one come out dirty (same with my last bosch). To say this is quiet is an understatement. If there is any other noise in the room like a refrigerator or talking you will not hear this unit run (be sure to install the two bottom covers along with the noise insulation thats provided). Its very quiet. Lots of adjustments in the rack as well as height and many wash options. The front controls are a big plus and something I was looking for rather than the hidden. Most of the time I use the quick wash (approx 30 mins) and that is all thats needed. Plastics don't dry but that was the case with my old unit as well, everything else dries fine though. This was also the #1 ranked unit in CR beating out some much more expensive models. I am quite shocked by the poor reviews here as virtually every review on other sites are excellent. Not sure whats up with that but mine has performed exactly as I expected. If something changes I always update reviews and will answer any questions if someone adds a comment that needs a response.\n\nOne of the other reviewers stated the bottom rack will not hold heavy dishes. Makes me wonder if they have their models mixed up. The bottom rack actually does not have rails but rides atop molded runners pressed into the stainless steel sides. I am not sure what kind of weight it would take to have the rack come off but surely the rack would bend before the sides give out. I can push down on it will a lot of force and its solid. I would think you could safely load 50 pounds of weight in the lower rack without any issues at all.\n\nUpdate 5/23/2012\n\nI am close to a year owning this and have had no issues. Still quiet and cleans like it did on the first wash. Use it 3 to 4 times a week. I use the powerball tablets as suggested in the manual. No negatives to report.\n\nUpdate 3/16/2013\n\nStill running like new. No issues !\n\nUpdate 12/5/2013\n\nStill going strong. No problems or issues.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2910, "id": 42069, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 269, "len_tokens": 489, "text": "We have used this in our 2 Air-O-Swiss humidifiers, models 7147&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Air-O-Swiss-AOS-7147-Ultrasonic-Humidifier-Warm-and-Cool-Mist/dp/B004FO9P8U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Air-O-Swiss AOS 7147 Ultrasonic Humidifier - Warm and Cool Mist</a>&nbsp;& 7145&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Air-O-Swiss-AOS-7145-Ultrasonic-Humidifier-Cool-Mist/dp/B001GSZBEA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Air-O-Swiss AOS 7145 Ultrasonic Humidifier - Cool Mist</a>&nbsp;for the past 1 and 2 years, respectively. Even though we have a water softening system, it doesn't remove all the hard mineral content from the water; these complete the task. Without these installed in the humidifiers, white mineral dust (including the sodium in softened water) ends up on and about the humidifiers, cleaning of the humidifiers is needed more often and it stands to reason that the life of the humidifier is shortened. These excellent units are expensive, so it makes sense to maintain them properly.\n\nIn a normal Wisconsin winter season, a single cartridge has done fine (although the AOS company, of course, recommends changing them more frequently). During a 120-day season, I run these in our bedrooms 70 to 80 days for 8-16 hrs/day. Frequency & runtime depends on outside humidity (or lack thereof) and how often our furnace runs. The only downside I find to using these (cost not considered) is that they reduce, by about a pint, the amount of water you can get into the reservoir, requiring more frequent filling. I just set a morning & evening fill schedule, and all is good.\n\nThere are refill packs available (one of which I have), but I haven't yet been able to open a cartridge by season's end. From the reviews I've read on the refill packs, it's worth it to just buy a whole new cartridge. Highly recommended!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2911, "id": 88355, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2912, "id": 463492, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 309, "len_tokens": 431, "text": "The Broan E6430SS is a good range hood, but not perfect. However, after quite a bit of tweaking, the installed hood works well and looks good. I've only used it a couple of weeks but so far I'd recommend it.\n\nPros:\n\n1. Low fan setting isn't loud and seems adequate for most cooking.\n2. This hoods baffle filters appear better than mesh filters; a previous Broan hoods mesh filters dripped grease, even when washed frequently.\n3. Clean and minimalist industrial design.\n4. Reasonable cost, but do comparison shopping.\n\nCons:\n\n1. Halogen lights are extremely hot; its very easy to get burned.\n2. Broan tech support is useless.\n3. Screwing in halogens or LEDs seems a no-brainer, but the GU10 bulb's base is a pain to screw in the hood upside down. Might have been better to install the bulbs before installing the hood.\n4. Hood mounting hole locations don't match spec sheet dimensions; measure actual hole locations on the hood.\n\nOther:\n\n1. Installation isn't as simple as it looks, although it can be done by a reasonably adept homeowner with the right tools. A power screwdriver and a stubby Phillips are helpful.\n2. I recommend not using halogens. Despite what Broan tech support says, LEDs appear to work OK although they may not last as long as halogens because the rated max operating temperature for LEDs is lower than halogens.\n3. LEDs I used: Philips 465054 LED GU10 Dimmable 35-Degree Spot Light Bulb; 400-Lumen, 3000-Kelvin, 6-Watt (50-Watt Equivalent), 3-Pack from Amazon. Dimming works (no guarantee these bulbs will dim when installed in other makes of hoods as their dimmer circuitry may be different.).\n4.  Hood is intended to be hard-wired; no power cable is supplied. I used a 3-wire cable from a previous Broan hood installation, plus a 3-wire plug to plug the unit into a wall socket.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2913, "id": 38640, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 370, "len_tokens": 458, "text": "I got this for my husband as a birthday present.  He was very excited to receive but started having doubts as he put it together.  The directions were less the awesome and took a bit of creativity to figure which of the pieces and parts were actually going to be used.  After assembly there is a bag of random o-rings in all sorts of shapes and sizes.\n\nOnce together, we plugged it in and seem to work just fine.  It was a bit louder than most mini-fridges, but not horrible.  We got the CO2 tank filled and our first keg just in time to have some friends over for a tall glass of foam.  At first we figured this was due to either the keg being a bit shaken up and the need to dial in the CO2 pressure just right.  After a couple weeks of fiddling, it did not get much better.  In order to not foam up, we had to set the pressure so low that it barely trickled out. Then the tap started sticking... The entire tap tower was always a bit wobbly, but now with the faucet itself was sticking and the instability was more noticeable.  We tried to keep the faucet clean, but it was a losing battle and the tap kept sticking.  At one point it became stuck on...we filled up several large mugs, wasting beer, before we were able to force back to the off position.  Unfortunately, it forcing it off, it sheared the tap right off.  This was the final straw.\n\nWe contacted Amazon to return the kegerator.  Not exchange, just return.  We didn't feel the unit was defective, it was just very poor craftsmanship and a new unit would have the same flaws.  In order to make it any good, we would need to change out all of the lines, the regulator, the connections, etc... basically everything but the CO2 tank... At that point you should just build your own from a mini-fridge.  Since this was a birthday present, we were past the return window when the kegerator failed.  Fortunately Amazon was very helpful and let us return for a full refund.  Thank you Amazon and no thank you to Nostalgia.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2914, "id": 562991, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 405, "len_tokens": 458, "text": "My Crumb Stop has arrived! Delivered on time... It feels and looks just as expected, a medium hardness black rubbery material that is strong enough to solidly keep the barrier in place inside the gap, but soft enough to allow you to squeeze it into the gap without much effort. It took a second of head-scratching to figure how to do it, but eventually I got it: you start at one end by squeezing and inserting that end into the gap, then continue to squeeze/push in progressively toward the other end, making sure not to push it too deep. Best to leave a bit of it out until you inserted all the way to the other end, then gently push the rest of it in until level with the edge of your counter top. Make sure it's in an upright W position, so it can catch anything that might fall in there...\nI love that it is black and it goes completely inside the gap, so you barely notice it. Additionally, you can wipe the counter and the stove tops without fear that stuff will fall inside (well, it may but it will be caught by the crumb stopper), and without any interference from the device, like it is the case with other ones I saw.\n\nWhile I didn't need to do this, the rubber is soft enough that you can trim it using a pair of scissors, in case it is too long, or if you want to reduce its height (e.g. if you have a very thin counter top edge).\n\nAll in all, I like the product and would recommend to anyone who likes to keep things clean around the kitchen.\n\nUpdate: we just made dinner (we like to cook most of our meals) and I can already see tiny bits of salt and a few drops of oil that jumped out of the pan that were caught by my Crumb Stop! Normally they would have fallen inside the gap and in time would have made a mess in there that would have had to wait weeks or months before the next clean! We have a stove which is very difficult to remove to allow cleaning of that hard to scrape caked mess that forms in there in time. I am thinking to buy another one to cover the vertical gap between the stove and the lower part of the counter, too.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2915, "id": 52628, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 395, "len_tokens": 493, "text": "The Graco Humidifier filters as advertised by the Buy-It-Now-Store indicated they were for the Graco 4 gallon Humidifier.  The humidifier filters that I received were packaged as Hamilton Beach for a Hamilton Beach (HB) Humidifier.  As I later learned, the picture that the Seller shows herein is even a picture of a Hamilton Beach Blue Filter which is supposed to be a higher grade filter than the \"Standard\" HB Filter and is a few cents more than the Graco Filter - but this it is not a Graco Filter.  When I contacted the Seller for a Return Authorization, they responded with an authorization for the filters and a \"NON-Pre-Paid\" shipping label with the instructions that I had to pay the postage for the return.  Since when do I have to pay postage for an error on their part??  After some back and forth correspondence, they agreed that they would reimburse me for the postage I would have to pay, but they would only refund me a $12.00 partial refund on my total purchase of $46.38.  After a couple of hours searching around the internet, I learned that the 4 gallon Graco model humidifier that I have is no longer produced and it seems that Graco is also no longer producing the filters either.  In addition, I did also find on the internet that the Graco filter and HB Filters are interchangeable in addition to another brand but I don't know if this Store even knows that.  It would behoove the Seller to advertise the filters he is offering as an HB filter (not a Graco Filter) but also add a note citing that they are physically interchangeable with the Graco filters. Although, the HB filters appears to be of a lesser quality in construction and materials, for now I intend to keep the filters received and use them as I do not want to lose the $34.38 difference between the refund and the initial cost - and they are usable.  However, my lesson learned, dealing with a the \"Real\" Amazon has always worked fine for me with no problems, but this is the last time I will buy from one of the posted \"Buy-It-Now-Stores\" as they don't seem to stand behind their products.  I may come back at a later date to review this Hamilton Beach Filter with use in the Graco 4 Gallon Humidifier.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2916, "id": 482922, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 324, "len_tokens": 406, "text": "I've lived in five different countries in the last ten years in government-provided housing.  Since I love to cook, I've spent an awful lot of time fighting with poor quality stoves that couldn't keep a 6-quart pot of water at a full boil but without a simmer plate, scorched every sauce, and with ovens that heated unevenly, or refused to stay lit.  Out of desperation, I bought a portable induction burner and fell in love with the technology.  Even thought the house we bought had a shiny new gas oven, I splurged on this oven, and am over the moon.\n\nI will be the first to admit the oven controls can be kind of fiddly, and the oven really does take a seriously long time to come up to a full, even temperature and the beep announcing the oven was preheated is never correct.\n\nDespite that irritant, it's still a terrific range.  The slide in model overlaps the counter slightly on each side, which just adds to the ease of cleaning the glass top.  The regular heating elements boil water almost as rapidly as the large one with the 'power boil' feature.  All heat pans extremely evenly.  The slide out oven rack is also a seriously good innovation -- no more wrestling blazing hot oven racks in an out -- even with a 20-pound baking steel resting on it.  The broiler heats rapidly and works extremely well, even at a distance of 6 - 8 inches.  The warming drawer gets constant use.  Haven't used the self-cleaning feature yet, but I'm guessing it operates as effectively as the rest of the oven.\n\nI really wanted to like the oven, so my boyfriend was a lot more objective.  He has a limited repertoire in the kitchen, but has perfected the few things he does make.  He crows with delight at every pan of perfectly baked chocolate chip cookies and ultra-crispy pizza crusts.  That's seriously high praise.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2917, "id": 61369, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 356, "len_tokens": 435, "text": "The only thing I love about this range is its appearance.  I purchased it back in 2008 and have been putting up with, and cooking around many, many issues.  Within the first six months I began the service calls, but our service technician was unable to repair our beginning issue with the stove and after spending several hundred dollars for a 'no fix' situation, I had to live with the problem.  (That has pretty much been my stance since then as I did not want to be nickeled and dimed on this range.)  The first issue was when the oven fan comes on, it changes the front right burner flame and makes it unusable for stovetop cooking while the oven fan is on.  The knobs also crinkled due to heat (I can't image how this passed GE inspection, and is not worth replacing at over $50 a knob which will then crinkle again due to heat--what a money maker for them!) Another issue was the front left burner flame was too highly set and was eating away the burner disk and all my pots and pans (that was corrected, thank goodness).  The oven temperature was always off by about 25 degrees. My next issue was the center burner will not ignite all the way around.  The next issue is that the convection stopped working.  Then the top broiler stopped working.  Now the oven takes 15 plus minutes to heat up.  The bottom oven cooks great, but the drawer latch never really latched all the way.  Perhaps I have a lemon, but I just can't keep going with this.  Like I said, I really love the way it looks, but I cook every single day for my family and need an working range.  Unfortunately, it's not going to be easy finding a new one as it sounds from many other reviews you either get lucky, or not.  I would even pay for a Viking, Wolff or Verona because I love the professional look so much, but it doesn't sound like you get away from lemons there either, and pay even more for service and parts.  Uh!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2918, "id": 485312, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 257, "len_tokens": 412, "text": "We have Carrier Humidifier model HUMCCLBP 2417 (Large ByPass series 24 at 17 gal per day) This is equivalent to the Aprilaire 600 model, just re-branded for Carrier. Our restrictor orifice seemed to be partially clogged, with only a slow drip of water entering the humidifier. I tried to clean it out with a tiny drill bit, but I made the opening too large and then a slow stream of water was pouring out. Time for a new orifice. I ordered this one after checking the specs to determine that my unit requires the 3 gal/hr orifice, which is the yellow one. This fit the 1/4 inch tube perfectly and my humidifier water flow rate is back to where it should be. This is a two-pack, so I now have a spare orifice handy.\n\nQuoting from the Aprilaire Humidifier Service Manual:\n\"To clean orifice, gently insert a fine needle through the small opening. As an alternative, use a drill to clean out the opening: use a #77 drill (0.018 dia.) for Models 110, 220, 400, 550, 550A, 558, 560, 560A, 568 & 600; use a #73 drill (0.024 dia.) for Models 112, 224, 330, 350, 360, 440, 760, 760A, 768 & 700. If the opening cannot be cleaned out or is enlarged, replace with new orifice (white for the 110, 220; red for the 112, 224, 330; blue for the 350, 360, 440, 760, 760A, 768, 700; yellow for the 400,550, 550A, 558, 560, 560A, 568, 600). Models 445, 445A & 448 have no orifice.\"", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2919, "id": 462080, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 387, "len_tokens": 487, "text": "\"After deciding to replace a 20 year old Maytag w&d set with a new Maytag Bravos set, the effect of Whirlpool's aquisition of Maytag became evident quickly. Here is our \"Laundry List\" of problems with the washer: 1) (MOST IMPORTANT), The electronic circuit board went bad after just 3 weeks. It flashed an F54 code and the cycle would just stop. Upon calling service, I was informed that problems with the Bravos circuit were quite common, 2) loads in it become unbalanced very easily. Even on a textured tile surface, I needed to push the unit back about 1\"-2\" after just a few loads. When the unit goes unbalanced it really shakes. It senses the unbalanced load then shuts the cycle down and tries to fix it by refilling the drum with water and slowly agitaging the clothes into more balanced positions. This seems to work, but in three short weeks, the shaking of the washer wore off the paint on my dryer (to it's left) and my refrigerator (to it's right). The paint was worn to the bare metal about 1/2\" high and about 2-3 inches long. And this was after only 3 weeks. I noticed this when I pulled the units out so I could return them to the store 3) It stinks. It literaly stinks. And Maytag knows it is GOING to stink. That is why they have a sensor (with a light on the panel) to tell you to use a cleaning agent (Affresh) to clean the unit. There is even a special cycle for cleaning the unit with the Affresh logo on the control panel. In 30 years of doing laundry, I have never had a washer just start to stink on its own, nor have I owned a unit that had a need to be flushed out regularly to avoid stinking, 4) you have to put the detergent directly into a small drain (very similar to where chlorine bleach used to go on the old-style units). This means if you have a shelf or cabinet above the washer to hold the liquid detergent (with a spout), you can't just squirt the detergent directly onto the clothes. You need to use the measuring cup and pour it into the little drain (no big deal, but it takes more time).\"", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2920, "id": 211981, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 230, "len_tokens": 403, "text": "THIS DOES NOT WORK THE SAME AS THE MHY62044106 OEM!!!  This is supposed to be the correct part number for my model LFX31925SW. This doesn't work without modification.  When installed as is, the door flap will not lay back flat against the door. It will lay 3/4 of the way and the spring will then bind and keep the flap ajar about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. Unless the flap sits completely against the door, you will drag against the opposite door frame, or catch the flap on the channel guide at the top of the door.  If that happens, the flap can be damaged beyond repair.  Dont get me wrong, the spring looks like it will fit. It has the same number of winds, but the leg bends are not correct. They are not bent in the correct spot and the bends are not sharp enough.  The legs are also too long. They will have to be trimmed and rebent. If you are not handy, do not order this.  Find the OEM part for the extra $3. This item is nonreturnable according to amazon.\n\nUPDATE 10/15/2017: The item is nonreturnable, not nonrefundable.  Amazon C.S. took care of it immediately.  Thanks\n\nThese are the models MHY62044106 is supposed to fit\nLFX25991ST\nLFX31925SB\nLMX25986ST\nLFX31925ST\nLFX31925SW\nLMX31985ST\nLFX21976ST\nLFX25973ST\nLFX28968SB\nLFX25974ST\nLFX28968ST\nLFXS24566S\nLFX28978ST\nLFX28979SW\nLMX28988ST/06\nLMXS27626S\nLFXS27566S\nLFX28968SW\nLFX28978WH", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2921, "id": 402340, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 364, "len_tokens": 428, "text": "Honestly one of the best purchases I've ever made. It works 1000x better than coin laundry and it will save you a bundle. You need to keep a few things in mind and I've included my favorite hacks here for super clean clothes:\n\n1. If you are looking for a set it and forget it kind of thing don't buy this. It needs babysitting. This machine is somewhere between hand washing and automatic. It does the work, but you have to do some work too.\n\n2. Use only a tablespoon or two of soap. I suggest Persil or Tide.\n\n3. Load and do not over-stuff. But it will do a lot. I can do a pair of jeans, 2 or 3 t-shirts, some underware and socks all in just one load. Don't overfill the water. Fill about 3/4 of the way up the lint filter inside. I set my wash time for 6 -9 minutes and that's all it really needs.\n\n4. Drain and then refill again with cold water and run it for 3 - 4 minutes. Drain.\n\n5. Now here is the step that really gets it all clean and all of the soap out of the clothes: Put about half of the load into the spin dryer. I have attached a funnel to the intake right next to the spin dryer and I use a hose from the sink to run water into the spin dryer for about one minute while it spins. This way when the water runs clear out of the hose and into the sink or tub you will know the soap is gone. Turn off the water. Let it finish spin drying completely.\n\nSometimes the machine will require that you hang on or support it while it spins. No big deal. I have mine up on the kitchen counter and just lean against it to keep it from walking.\n\nYour clothes can then be line dried or check out the \"Manatee\" standing dryer here on Amazon for quicker hang drying. Clothes will be soap-free and not stiff if you follow these steps using the water intake for part of the spin dry to completely remove all soap.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2922, "id": 456247, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 337, "len_tokens": 420, "text": "Do not buy this machine.  First of all,  it takes an hour and a half to do one load.  Because of the \"high efficiency\" rating, cycles are much longer - it takes an hour and a half for one load in the washer.  This is partly due to the new law effective April, 2015 so all machines will take longer and use less water.  This sucks!  The guys who passed this law probably don't do their own laundry.  Clothes come out stinking like mildew.  I wiped a bunch of really gross thick brown sludge from inside the crevices of the large grey rubber gasket and the machine still stinks really bad.  The inside of this rubber gasket  If I use the Tide branch washing machine cleaner, my clothes stink like the Tide cleaner for the first 4 loads.  I have tried running an empty load with just bleach to clean it, and also white vinegar to no avail.  It still smells bad.  It has ruined lots of clothes because when the detergent and water drips into the washer, some of my clothes have bled onto others - even bath towels.  Some clothes do not get cleaned at all and every load after they have been washed stinks like mildew really bad.  I wish I never listened to the repairman when I decided not to repair my old washer and just looked for another repair man.  Now with the new law, all machines have a water sensor, so none of them are like what you used to have.  I am going to buy a 24\" GE laundry center, which is very similar to what I used to have.  The GE looks like the old fashioned stack unit but it has a larger drum and smaller agitator than the Whirlpool or Frigidaire 24\" laundry center and it's a top loader.  This front loader stuff is for the birds.  Run from them and run from this machine.  DO NOT BUY IT or your clothes will stink bad and get ruined.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2923, "id": 511455, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 375, "len_tokens": 434, "text": "We purchased this online after trying in vain to find a refrigerator at a reasonable price locally. We have had this refrigerator for almost four months and have been very happy with it.\n\nIt has two icemakers, one in the door and another in the freezer compartment. I haven't figured out how the freezer compartment icemaker knows the container is full, since there is no wire or anything, but it does. The icemaker in the door has smaller cubes and really doesn't have a ton of ice, but it has always been enough for our needs. It did jam up once with compacted ice, but this was quickly remedied.\n\nThe refrigerator portion has plenty of room, and for anyone who has never had a \"French Fridge\" with the freezer on the bottom, all I can say is get one. It is so nice to open the door and have everything at face level rather than having to bend down to get something.\n\nThis refrigerator has a little door on the right side that opens up to allow access to several items without having to open the door. We thought this was one of the stupidest features we had ever seen and thought we would never use it. Well, it's turned out that we use it all the time, primarily for our milk, cream, butter, etc. Obviously there are some energy savings involved, but we don't care about that. We just like the convenience of it.\n\nOne other feature that we really haven't used much is that the right half of the top shelf has a panel that will slide back, thus allowing very tall items to be placed on the second shelf. Even though this isn't something we've used, at some point it will come in very handy.\n\nWe purchased this through a third-party seller rather than Amazon. Shipping took substantially longer than it was supposed to, as in two full weeks. It was delivered in perfect condition, though, at about $1,000 less than it would have cost at any of the local stores. For those savings we were happy to wait a couple of weeks. There is a fear factor in ordering something like this online, but we are very glad we did.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2924, "id": 563912, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 373, "len_tokens": 467, "text": "My LMX28988ST /04 broke down (purchased Oct 2012).  According to the owners manual parts are covered for seven years and the compressor for ten but not the labor.  At first, I called several local repair shops, and all declined to work on it because they were not authorized LG repair shops.  I then decided to call LG's 1-800 number.  The lady at LG told me to contact Sears Repair for service.  Sears were booked solid and I had to wait around 10 days for an appointment.  Finally, the day came, and I was told by the Sears repairman that they are not authorized to do LG warranty work.  In any case he did the diagnosis and said my compressor, condenser and dryer were bad.  The estimate came out to over a thousand dollars and Sears would need to contact LG before any work could be done or I could pay the full amount and try to get reimbursed for the parts than came under warranty.  The repairman charged me $99 plus tax for the house call.  He gave me a 10% coupon and told me I could recover my house call bill by buying a new refrigerator from Sears that cost a $1000 and up.\n\nI contacted LG again and Nick at LG told me Air Tech Hawaii does the warranty work in Hawaii.  Why wasn't I told about that in the first place.  Being the frig initially cost me over $2,500 on sale from the NEX (Navy Exchange), I decided to pay the flat rate of $535 plus $25.21 tax to have it fix.  According to Air Tech Hawaii, Sears took a swag (scientific wild ass guess) and diagnose that both the compressor and condenser were at fault.  Air Tech Hawaii added a valve to attach test gauges to determine the problem.  Turns out the condenser was still working.  Unless it was leaking, it would not be covered.\n\nNo matter how much I presented my case, LG would not reimburse me for their misdirected service call.  I own a couple large LG TV and an electric range but never again.  Buyer Beware a large corporation like LG would be stingy about 100 bucks.  My beef was all about the principal.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2925, "id": 207912, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 352, "len_tokens": 407, "text": "My family just recently moved to a new house. After drying our first load of clothes, we found them to still be almost soaking wet. We noticed that the ventilation from the dryer to the outside of the house was very long and traveled up through the attic and out the roof. Our first attempt at a remedy involved pulling apart the vent pipes and cleaning out what had to be at least a decade of old lint. After seeing how much lint was trapped in the pipes, we figured that would surely fix the issue. Clothes were still damp after running the cycle again. The new step was to buy a new washer and dryer (something we had been planning on anyway) to see if the new dryer would have a better fan to push the hot air out. After running a cycle on the new Maytag Bravos XL dryer, we got a \"check vent\" notification and any drying cycle other than the Timed Dry would shut off after about a minute. This is when we finally decided to buy the Tjernlund M-49504351. I had a friend, who happens to be an electrician, help me wire the current sensing switch. I, on the other hand, am NOT an electrician so this may or may not make sense - he ran a wire from an outlet we already had in the attic to form a circuit with the current sensing switch and a new outlet box he mounted below the original. We plugged the Tjernlund into the new box. Whenever the dryer comes on, the circuit is completed and the new outlet box provides power to the fan. The test run was a success. Once the dryer came on, the fan came on, and as soon as we turned the dryer off, the fan turned off. After running my first cycle with the fan in place, we now have a \"good airflow\" notification and our clothes dry in one cycle. Hallelujah! This thing is amazing and I would recommend it to anyone with drying issues due to an excessively long dryer vent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2926, "id": 171117, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 333, "len_tokens": 419, "text": "Bought and installed this in my mom's washer.  We did several loads now, and it works great.  If you follow a youtube video, it's easy to replace, took me about 15 minutes.  You need a pair of pliers (to move 2 fastening clamps), a wrench (not sure of the size though) to remove the front, bottom cover, and a flathead screwdriver (to pry the rubber loose on the base to the left).  We were lucky to save some money on this part, and considerably on the labor costs (it would have been near 200, apparently).\n\nAs a suggestion to anyone with this washer, try once or twice a year to take off the bottom washer cover, and loosen the front opening of this unit (it's tight because of a rubber seal) to clean out any debris once in a while, so the pump doesn't jam over time.  This keeps the plastic on the pump wheel from wear-and-tear.\n\nTry to also avoid washing stuff that will shed anything, like larger fibers (some pillows do this, with loose strings on the edge as a design), so it doesn't clog the outlet.  If string wraps around the pump wheel (inside this unit, actually), it causes it to wear faster.  Long hair can do this too, so if you feel motivated, you can loosen the pump part on this unit as it's aging (that's the beige-colored part, careful not to break the lock on the plastic, look carefully on the inner edge, you'll find where it locks, before you attempt to twist off the pump).  If you can clean this once in a while too, you'll find it'll last longer.  This is obviously more info than I needed to share, but I thought maybe someone out there in the same predicament with this pump (as we had with the old one) might find the info useful.  I'll be sure to check and clean this new one often to make sure it lasts.  :)\n\nBlessings.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2927, "id": 88051, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2928, "id": 235414, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 313, "len_tokens": 417, "text": "My machine had started acting up, sometimes wouldn't spin, or wouldn't execute a \"drain and Spin\"  or 'Rinse and Spin\".  I got it limping along after I checked error codes (who knew a machine without a digital readout had a diagnostic mode?!)  but I think my limited success was just coincidence.  The part was simply failing over time.  It could've been the wiring harness, which costs a lot more.  But this part fixed so many other machines, I decided to cross my fingers for $30 and hope this was the culprit.  Super-easy to install (notice the tabs on the backside of the wiring plug when you go to remove it from the bad actuator).  Word of caution:  right after I hooked up the machine I tried to start a cycle, and all I got was clicks and whirrs again- ugh!!  I thought I'd guessed wrong on the part.  I decided to run thru another diagnostic mode (which takes you all of 20 seconds)  and that must have reset it somehow.  It worked first shot after that.  Can't have the washing machine out of commission!  This part was identical to the original, and nearly half the price of other sites.  At the rate that I've seen them go bad (online)  maybe you should keep an extra on hand!  My machine was only 3 years old.\nUPDATE 13 months later:  It appears that this part has failed-again!  One would think that the manufacturer would redesign a part that is famous for failing and bringing misery to so many.  I'm ordering it one last time;  when this one goes, you can bet the farm that my next washer won't be a Whirlpool/Maytag!! Had to revise my 5-star rating for a part that only lasted 13 months in a dry, clean environment (second floor laundry room) with typical use in a 'family of 4' household.  TOBAL!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2929, "id": 241234, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 408, "len_tokens": 478, "text": "If you have a top loading washing machine and those bearings are starting to make noise, this is the kit for you. Well thought out, this kits contains everything you need down to the grease and sealant. You could save some money if you want to carefully remove everything without damaging the seal or shaft as the bearings can be purchased at an auto parts dealer. However, with this kit you can literally take a big hammer and beat everything out without worrying about damaging one of the parts. Plenty of videos on youtube with instructions on how to disassemble and reassemble the washing machine. My only problem was delivery. I was supposed to receive the package USPS on Friday. Well on Friday my package was out for delivery in a city about 25 miles from me. If I didn't get the parts by Saturday it would be at least Monday. Back to work so that option wasn't appealing. I called the national help number and the friendly lady took my complaint and then told me they would be in touch within 48 hours. Seriously, I'm in day 3 of a 2 day delivery and they are going to take another 2 days to find my package. I waited until Saturday, as my package showed in transit, and went to the post office at 11:45, they close at 12:00. Unfortunately, i got one of those lazy postal workers, not generalizing as most of them work hard and are professional. I asked her if she could try to help me locate my 2 day package that I assumed was probably already sitting in the post office. She informed me that there was nothing she could do, everything was shipped to another city first, then back to my town. The \"elbow\" story. Also it would arrive in a giant container and could never be located. I left so upset, I didn't realize she hadn't even asked for the tracking number. When I arrived home I checked the USPS site one more time and there it was, changed to \"Out for delivery\". Received the parts and completed the repairs Saturday. The parts kit was awesome and made the job simple and fast. My wife was thrilled. As the delivery problem was a USPS issue, I'm giving this kit a solid 5 Stars. BTW, USPS did call me back either Monday or Tuesday. I really didn't care what they had to say.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2930, "id": 185828, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 354, "len_tokens": 423, "text": "I purchased this washer in Jan and it was delivered 22 Jan 10.  On 19 Feb 10 gallons of water came rushing out from the front of the machine into my washroom, kitchen and into my finished basement. Luckily I was home. Dealer indicated they had some issues with small leaks but had never seen water coming out at this rate.  They replaced the front panel -  I wanted a new washer - that did not happen.  On 10 Apr 10 I could not get washer to work - kept flashing codes.  Dealer replaced a control -  I asked for a new machine  -  but was denied.  19 Jun 10  water  came out of the front of the machine again - luckily I was home.  Dealer wants to fix it and Whirlpool indicated the same.  Dealer repairman came out and ran a cycle and it did not leak for him - I guess they think I am making this up. But I did take a picture of the front of the machine and floor to show the water.  I paid $700 for this piece of crap and neither the dealer nor Whirlpool will agree to replace it.  You buy a new applicant and your expectation is that you will not have problems with it for several years. My problems started in less than 30 days.  This experience does not give me a warm and fuzzy about the next 10 year life span of the washer.  Whirlpool svc said as long as the machine is working they will not replace it.  I asked the customer rep if he would like to have it in his house so he can clean up the water and have his home soaked.  I am afraid to use the delay wash feature in fear I will have a flood again. All Whirlpool wants to do is extend my warranty another 6 months.  Bull!  I am so upset I do not know where to turn.  I feel I got a lemon and the dealer nor Whirlpool will do what I believe is the rightful thing to do and replace the machine.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2931, "id": 176099, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 375, "len_tokens": 461, "text": "I could've taken the lazy way out and just dumped the old dryer (2001) for a new one.  Sometimes appliance repair can be daunting when you don't know what you are doing.  I'm glad I didn't.  I did a little bit of internet research, probably Googled 'dryer doesnt turn under load' and 'dryer squeaks' and found a great site with videos explaining the insides of the dryer and what may cause this issue.  For the cost of this part and 90 minutes, my problem was solved.  The Bearing Kit, which is more or less the big metal plate in the image with a ball on the end is attached to the drum. The plastic hanger, which attaches to the back of the dryer's rear combine to allow the dryer drum to rotate as the belt drives it.  On my old dryer, the bearing was so worn down that it looked more like a cylinder vs a ball - like someone took a lathe to it.  The plastic hanger was so worn down that the part that holds the bearing was completely worn away - no plastic.  This is about 3/8\" of plastic,just gone.\n\nPart came in 2 days thanks to Prime, and armed iwth the videos I took the top, front and drum out of the unit - detaching the belt.  3 screws later the old bearing plate was off and with a mini-power screw driver I was able to power through the three new screws, self-tapping the new new bearing onto the drum.\n\nPlastic plate was two screws and the little ball was held in place with a dab of the lube.  Lube everything up, put the unit back together, and the dryer was back to its regular form.  I also did the felt kit since the unit was open.\n\nThe only pain I had with reassembly was the dryer vent which is probably the least well engineered part on this unit - it always detaches.  but that has nothing to do with this part of the repair.\n\nLast comment, I have a Kenmore dryer - Frididaire sourced - but the itnernet led me to this part and it was correct. There are many options so make sure you get the right one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2932, "id": 60073, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 425, "len_tokens": 495, "text": "About The Unit:\nI bought this unit on 8/31/16 it arrived unlike a lot of customers undamaged. I did all the recommendations according to the user manual before adding anything to it. Seemed to be a perfect buy. However on 8/20/17 I noticed that the unit was making a clicking noise every 5 minutes or so, FYI ( I kept this unit inside my kitchen from day one so no outside heat or humidity could effect it ). I went over to the unit and saw both lights where illuminated which I found odd since the compressor wasn't kicking on. Unfortunately I did not catch this in time apparently because slot of the product I had in it was already defrosting.\n\nWarranty Process:\nI checked user manual and found out it had a 12 month warranty. Luckily I was right under the 12 months by 11 days. I called the number for warranty support didn't get through for two days. When I finally got someone on the phone which I took almost an hour to get through they had me do what other customers had mentioned to try and reset the unit. But what they didn't mention is that they wanted you to wait 6 hours or more before you called back to see if the unit would kick on and start freezing. After all that still didn't  work. So I had to call them back took forever then to my disbelief they told me that I had to email them with the work order #, repair #, proof of purchase, serial #,  model #, address, date of purchase and a description of what the unit was doing. ( I'm thinking to myself what's the f***ing point of the support center then. ) I emailed them the info and a auto reply sends back saying it will take 5 to 10  days for a reply. Exactly 10 days later I received a email asking for the exact info I already had sent. So I sent back a email saying I already sent all the information you are asking for in my first email. It took another 2 days for them to respond they are having me cut the cord and take of the serial # plate and send that in by mail with a tracking number ( which I have to pay for ) for them to refund the money.\n\nAll in all I don't recommend you buy this unit I personally think Amazon should steer away from even selling it considering it's a lemon and the manufacturer knows it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2933, "id": 466416, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 335, "len_tokens": 419, "text": "Let me start by stating that I am a chemical engineer and can usually figure out mechanical problems. I do my own car work and fix most of my own electronics.\n\nI recently bought a house and inherited a Maytag MFF2558VEM French door refrigerator.  It is less than 3 years old and to this day looks great!\n\nAfter two weeks of ownership the problems started.\n\nIncident #1: The freezer frosted over.  No big deal.  I defrosted the fridge, cleaned the lint out the cooling coils, and good to go.\n\nIncident #2: Two weeks later the freezer frosted over again.  This time I defrosted the entire fridge, cleaned the drain plug out which collects water from the condenser coils, and tested the thermometer or thermister as the manual calls it and the heating coil.  All was functioning properly according to the service book.  Good to go right?\n\nIncident #3: Two days later and over $200 dollars of food lost and I am now experiencing the same issue.  I purchased a replacement main control board since I didn't have the fridge on a surge protector and we had a power outage in the timeframe.  Maytag's apparently are notorious for burning up control chips during power surges and the heater coil is on a relay known to fail in this way.  A day later I installed a surge protector, installed the new main control board, and programmed the new chip for $160.  Good to go!\n\nIncident #4: One day later snow in the fridge again!  Now maybe I haven't identified the root cause of the issue.  However, my argument is that a 3 year old fridge should not have this level of significant issues.\n\nI would rather spend hundreds more for a new fridge than spend hundreds to fix one that I fully expect to have repeat issues.  For this reason, I gave up. I bought a new fridge today and hopefully I'll have better luck.  All Maytag appliance may not be bad but I'd avoid this one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2934, "id": 401190, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 276, "len_tokens": 414, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R2HQO8E9ENDG9I\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71Q7ppYUW5S.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91EMjtiKp9S.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;I really like this little washer. Its a great size for my bathroom counter top to make draining the water out easy. It washes a good amount of clothes per wash. Clothes get pretty clean as well. You can see all the dirty and junk in the water as it drains. I use a bucket to fill the tub its faster then the little hose attached. Ive been washing the clothes for about 3-5 min and rinse for about 3. This method has been working well for me. Ive done about 6 Loads now. The only complaint I have is the spin cycle. Its a joke. If your plus size and have larger/heaver clothing only one article at a time will fit and sometimes just barely. My bf is a larger man with big, thick work pants. I really have to squeeze them down in the little basket and the unit shakes so bad due to the weight no matter how I load the basket. This has been happening with not just heavy items as well. Most times I have to hold the unit down while it spins or the unit will dance around my counter. Besides that its a good buy. You can definitely get away with hand wringing it out or can hold down the unit while it spin drys. Definitely beats the hassle of doing my laundry in the apartment complex. 3rd floor lugging of clothes plus the machines don't work most the time. This has been a convience. I got a nice 3 year warranty with it as well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2935, "id": 318913, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 371, "len_tokens": 457, "text": "I see a lot of people saying these do not fit their fridge and I finally figured out why.  After trying and trying to install this filter, it just wouldn't sit in there properly and make the quarter turn that it needs to lock in place.  It seemed to be identical in shape to the old one, but it just wouldn't go in.  After repeated attempts I took it out and examined the old and new filter carefully side by side.  I noticed that the plastic the \"U\" shaped lip that is intended to keep it in was getting smushed from my repeated attempts to install.  Then I noticed that my old original filter had a much thinner \"U\" than the new filter.\n\nOut of sheer curiosity, I grabbed my Dremel and shaved down the edge of the \"U\" shaped part just where it was catching and voila!  It fit perfectly!  So this means the manufacturer of this product just isn't reproducing the original design quite right.\n\nI ran water through it and it seemed fine, but as I was sitting in my living room I heard something awful .  Water gushing!!!  I ran into the kitchen to see the bottom of the fridge spraying water all over the floor.  I quickly shut off the water valve, but man did I have a mess to cleanup.  IT FLOODED MY KITCHEN AND DINING ROOM.  Soaked my wood floors and made me soooo MAD!!!!\n\nWhen I took out the the filter to examine what had happened, I saw that the rubber gasket that is designed to be tight and keep the water in the fridge and NOT all over my floor had come half way off.  Just to confirm this was the problem I reseated it back on there and screwed in the filter again and it didn't leak.\n\nLook people, I fell victim to the save a few bucks and buy the cheap knock-off but you don't have to make the same mistake I did.\n\n1.  It didn't fit until I modified their design (which you shouldn't have to do)\n2.  The loose gasket came off and flooded my house\n3.  DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME AND JEOPARDIZE YOUR HOUSE!\n\nOk, rant over.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2936, "id": 87459, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2937, "id": 99919, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 359, "len_tokens": 422, "text": "All I can add to the other reviews is that I like being able to check my clothes, individually, before they're done. Our laundry room is pretty nice, but, like most, it doesn't have great lighting. Today I noticed a spot on my jeans and stopped, treated it again with Spray and Wash and some Borax, and got it almost completely out. Others have said their clothes are getting progressively cleaner, so I'll see.\nI also got the Ninja Soft spinner, and they work well together.  You see the water coming out of your clothes as they spin dry, so you know how much soap is still in them, and if the water is clean yet or not.  And it gets them almost dry.\nBut you can see how much dirt you're getting out with the WW, by looking at the water, too.\nI use Tide, and have found I need about half as much soap, or less, than they suggest.  And enough water to cover the clothes seems to work best.\nI put a dot of bright nail polish on the top of the drain pipe.  I'd get distracted and start putting in rinse water while it was still attached, since its white like the bathtub. That worked for me.\nIt was great to read in the laundry room, (except that my glasses fogged up) or make new friends, but when I got too interested in that, I wound up with one very short tee shirt. I think I like this better. My jeans look brighter than when I bought them.\nPersonally, I think this little machine is beautifully engineered. Its light weight because its just plastic, but its also easy to pick up with one hand. I keep it in the bathtub and move it out when I shower.\nI also got a very comfortable quart-sized sturdy plastic water pitcher at Target.  It was somewhat expensive,  but the soft handle and gauge you can read from above made it worth the extra cost for me. The last thing I wanted was a heavy glass one.\nI like this machine. It does what it was made to do.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2938, "id": 545249, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 385, "len_tokens": 475, "text": "This has yet to be installed, but I researched many stoves prior to purchasing this one. I looked for one without all the LED electronic gadgetry on it, because they tend to malfunction after years of use, I am just as happy to set a wind-up kitchen timer. Also wanted a more classic look in my rustic/industrial decor. I just received it and unpackaged it to check to make sure there was no damage; it is even more stunning in person than in the pictures, at a much more reasonable price than any other \"professional-grade\" stove. Not one thing about it feels \"cheap,\" down to the REAL metal knobs. The best you will get for this price, and I'm sure I'm going to be happy with this stove for years to come. Highly recommend.\n\nUpdate: February 2017\nMoved in July of 2016 and began using the stove. I stand by the five stars, as I really enjoy cooking with this stove. There are a few things worth noting, as another reviewer mentioned:\n1) When the oven is regulating temperature, the \"whoosh\" sound of the burner shutting off may sound disconcerting at first.\n2) I wish they had made the grate insert in the middle of the stovetop to fit OVER the burner grates, not under. I would think the weight itself would have kept it in place. It's nothing I'd subtract from the rating for, it just makes it slightly more of a pain to clean the stainless in the middle.\n3) Be aware that this is a commercial-grade stove. My propane guy was sure they had sent the wrong version because the burner orifices were bigger than he was used to seeing. The heavy grates hold pans well above the flame, which is generous, that's why the orifices may be larger than a regular, \"residential\" type propane stove or conversion.\n4) In relation to #3, I wouldn't recommend using cheap cookware on this stove. I already owned a nice set of stainless cookware I've had for years, and it does great. I did find that I had to be more careful at first about which burner I used and the height of the flame, in comparison to a \"regular\" stove.\n\nOverall, VERY happy with my choice and looks as good as it cooks.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2939, "id": 88299, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2940, "id": 181210, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 365, "len_tokens": 411, "text": "I love this washing machine! I'm so happy I found it. Any one can have one because It is good for a single person but it is great help for a family too. Especially for that last minute request. My daughters always tell me on the last minutes \"mom I need my school uniform clean for tomorrow\" or i don't have my gym clothes ready for the next day, etc... it is a huge help!\n\nI leave in an apartment with washing and drying machine on the ground floor. Hate to go there up and down so I send all husband, kids clothes and bed sheets to the laundromat and now I wash delicates and underwear in this machine. I have also washed bed sheets when I need it immediately when I  don't have any clean. This product is great for a mom with little kids or babies as they use so much clothes and if you buy this one buy the mini Panda dryer machine which is great companion with this washer. The machine is small, compact and easy to storage for small apartments, but it is surprising powerful and you can fit enough into it.\n\nI put mine to work on the kitchen counter and use the water connector to fill up the machine with water. I also put a wine cork lid on the drain whose so I can fill up enough water and it won't spill water while it's in function. Other reviewers fill up the machine manually with a bucket which I don't think it's smart if you can use the water whose. It is so much work like that so try to use it on your kitchen counter next to the sink and you will find this machine more practical and fun. Just put some drops of detergent not too much. Then run the 15 minutes cycle, drain the water when it finishes and fill up again with water 2 or 3 more times to rinse your clothes. See...that is why I strongly suggest to use it next to the kitchen sink.\n\nOverall great purchase and if you are readying this review, go for it. You will love it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2941, "id": 371118, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 407, "len_tokens": 484, "text": "I've given this range 8 months of solid use, so I figured it was time to write a review. I would say I use the stove range at least 4 to 5 times a week if not more, and I use the oven portion at least twice a week. I often do soups and stews, so I tend to do a lot of simmering over long periods of time.\n\nAesthetically, this stove is a real crowd-pleaser. I would say that I get more compliments on the stove than anything that I have ever put inside my home. It is stainless steel, the oven is blue inside, and the cast iron stove top looks very well put together and polished.\n\nCooking wise, I have very few issues and everything has turned out very well. The one thing I can say is that if you have never used the stove like this before, which I had not previously, you are in for higher temperatures with a commercial gas range than you're used to, and that can result in some burning at the bottom of a pot until you get it under control. I've had to adjust the temperature a bit to accommodate for this in everything that I make.\n\nThe convection part of the oven works very well. I was told that gas stoves aren't ideal for things like baking because the temperature can't be regulated as well. R this oven, that is simply not the case. I made macarons using the convection fan on the oven, and they turned out perfectly. The recipe even accommodated for using a conventional gas oven, which involved taking the macarons out and switching the pan. That step was not necessary because the oven is well-insulated, and the convection fan circulated effectively.\n\nI only have one small gripe, but this has been true of every oven I've ever owned that is gas, so I'm not even sure if it's singular to this particular model, but I can say that when you light one burner some of the other ones snap and pop like they are attempting to ignite. It's a bit alarming when it happens rapid fire and you aren't even moving the knob.\n\nThat said, I feel like this oven is totally solid and I would recommend it to anyone. It's simplistic in its controls, you aren't overwhelmed with a ton of options, and you can focus on what's important - cooking!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2942, "id": 228134, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 360, "len_tokens": 434, "text": "I purchased the w10381562 to replace a torn bellow for a Maytag 2000 series whwe200xw00 model front load washer.  The part fit perfect and had the washer up and running again within an hour.  The new bellow seems to feel slightly thinner on the section that wiggles around between the basket and door.  This may be the case or it could be that the old one had swollen and got brittle after it got mildew.  I would have liked better pictures of the front, back and drain holes at the bottom to make me more comfortable about purchasing the right one.  The new bellow had a waxy substance on it from the manufacture process.  I would suggest running running it on the hot cycle with rags or work pants as that worked for me to remove the wax.\n  I think that main  thing that caused the holes to develop was leaving change and other objects in pockets and finding them in the bellow part.  I tended to overload the washer causing it to vibrate more than usual during the spin cycle possibly making objects in the bellow wear it prematurely.  My original bellow had large rips at the top and only the tiniest hole develop at the bottom before it started leaking.  While you have the bottom panel open remember the clean out needs to be checked for clogs.  I had to replace the pump assembly previously due to bobby pins and paperclips making their way into the pump impeller.  I now check the clean out at least every 3 months so you do not get the e-9 f1 error code and it will not drain on the final rinse .  If you use a large casserole dish with a low lip under the clean out when checking you will not end up with a water mess.  Washer has been saved from replacement twice with decent priced parts and YouTube videos.  By the way if you need to replace the pump just buy the motor and clean out assembly together.  It is not worth fiddling with putting the new motor on the old clean out for only a $5 savings.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2943, "id": 455580, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 363, "len_tokens": 440, "text": "I bought this range almost a year ago, but this is the first that I am giving a review.  I just need to get this out of my system. I should have given my  review earlier in case I could have saved someone from purchasing this 20\" range without knowing much in detail about it.\nKnow that the range measures less than 20\"!!!!!  It is smaller in width an depth than the usual 20\" stove.  I do not know why they did not give the accurate measurement. I refer to it as my 'Barbie' stove.  If you enjoy cooking and usually cook a multi pot/pan meal, do not buy this.  There is no room for larger pans on the stove top.  And, I cannot fit my usual cookie tray or pans with long handles in my oven. This is such a bummer.  I think you can forget about cooking a healthy sized turkey!! PLEASE - CAUTION, take this into consideration if you like to cook and have a family to cook for.\nThe range looks nice and cleans easily, sort of (keep in mind, it's stainless and can be more difficult to clean, especially when cooking dishes using grease).\nThe oven takes a while to pre-heat and I have to set the oven about 25-50 degrees higher to get the temperature I need. The burners aren't MUCH in the way of being adjustable, so you will be cooking at a higher flame than you need most of the time.\nI was sold on this stove basically because it was a 'closed' top meaning no food can drop into the stovetop. And, the bottom tray offered storage. Hey, I live in an old Manhattan apartment, space saving is life saving - lol.\nIt's not always easy to light the oven and it sometimes shut itself (be sure you do not have much in the tray below which causes this automatic shut off because air cannot circulate).It took a service call to have this explained to us.\nGlad I was able to get this off my mind. If I hadn't spent close to $600 on this, I'd be out shopping for another.\n\nThanks!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2944, "id": 478041, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 347, "len_tokens": 412, "text": "I've had my washer/dryer combo 8 months. There are a lot of bad reviews but I'm pretty satisfied with mine. I use it in my camper. It's definitely a space saver. I have not had a single problem with it not functioning properly. It's worked great since day one!\nThis is NOT a normal washer/dryer. This was designed for places that are not meant for standard washers. It is 110v. Which means its not going to have the power of a normal washer. That is stated in the description BEFORE you buy it. A little common sense will tell you that as well. The description also states the capacity is 13 lbs. That is clearly not an average size load. What do you expect from a space saving machine. compact means compact! So again, you know this before you buy it.\nThe only thing I have a problem with not getting dry all the way with a normal wash is jeans and towels. They are heavier items. I usually have to dry those loads an extra hour. I usually put about 4-5 pair of my husbands jeans in one load. That may be another reason they need an extra hour to dry. Washing cottons, I can get quite a bit in the wash and it dries just on a normal cycle.\nThe thing I DO NOT like is when my clothes come out of the machine, they are extremely wrinkled. So you have to iron just about everything.\nWe are living in our 34 ft camper while having our house built so I've used this a lot. It's been awesome having it and saves trips to the laundromat. It's ventless so it can go in just about any space with a drain nearby.\nA lot of people are leaving bad reviews. But a lot are complaining about things they knew before they bought it.\nI recommend buying vibration pads for the machine because it is light weight and will vibrate more then a standard washer. Could be because I have mine in a camper but not sure.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2945, "id": 494211, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 341, "len_tokens": 410, "text": "This review is for the 3.75 cu. ft. dryer. I strongly suggest that if you're in the market for a small dryer that runs on normal 110 current, don't get anything smaller.\n\nFour stars is a very good grade for this. Note that I say this in regards to grade-inflation that tends to plague everything from movie reviews to product reviews. This is a good product, but its overall light construction (to put it mildly) means that its never going to be in a 5-star category.\n\nBut I didn't deduct for the fact that the dryer didn't work upon first plugging it in. I called their customer service number, spoke to a very friendly lady who barely spoke English, and she told me that perhaps the belt had slipped off during shipment. After spending a couple minutes repeating letter-by-letter my email address so that she could send me instructions for fixing the belt, she still got the address wrong because I never heard from her.\n\nBut removing the back of the dryer was easy enough and after a little thought, I fixed it. Not only had the belt come off but the tension spring had come off as well.\n\nThe dryer works well. As far as capacity (which I suppose would be most peoples question), you can take a medium-to-large load of washing and dry it all by splitting it into two loads. Each load takes about 90 minutes to dry. And it does a good job of it. Im very happy with it so far.\n\nI purchased the Dundas Jafine ProFlex Indoor Dryer Vent Kit and that works well as well. But, again, I wouldnt even think of messing with the smaller version of this  Sonya dryer. Although the 3.75 cu. ft. works fine for my needs (one person), anything smaller would be somewhat pointless and probably near useless.\n\nBut as it is, although I don't expect this dryer to last forever because of its basic construction, it so far does a very good job and I can recommend it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2946, "id": 88019, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2947, "id": 518379, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 355, "len_tokens": 403, "text": "Let me start by saying the hood is definitely a 5 star, so far. I rated it 4 stars because of the way it was packaged. When it arrived on my porch, the box was a generic shipping box and was beat up and ripped in a couple of places. Thats on the shipping company. I opened that box to inspect the hood and found the original box the manufacturer had packed the unit in. The manufacturers box was also heavily damaged, and it was obvious that the damage had occurred before it had been placed inside the generic box and shipped to me. I almost sent it back without even looking at the hood, but after a day, I opened it the rest of the way and the hood actually looked unhurt. I pulled it to an outlet and everything worked great, so I decided to keep it. The hardware pack was missing, but Im thinking it got lost because of the damaged boxes. After contacting the company, they promptly sent me replacement hardware. The installation was pretty straight forward for my purpose. I had to reduce it to 6 inch because of space in the wall, but I seldom have to go above the low setting to exhaust my stove. Its definitely heavy duty and is quieter than the Broan unvented it replaced. There are only 2 lights, located at the front, but it lights my stove nicely. They are the white LED, and it took me a couple of days to get used to them. But I like them now. Ive seen some reviews that complained of them being dim, but mine are good. I was amazed at how much air came out the outside wall hood, even on low speed. I love the washable filters and the lines of the hood are clean and stylish. I love it so far. Im glad I looked past the packaging issues, because this really is a great range hood. Ive used it for a couple of months. Ill come back and update after some time has passed, but Im impressed after a nervous start.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2948, "id": 515933, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 341, "len_tokens": 408, "text": "I have had nothing but problems with this dryer.  Do not buy!!  In addition, Maytag customer support is the worst trained group of people I have ever had to deal with.  Sounded like that were just reading anything they could pull up on the computer as an answer.  A whole lot of:  let me see if I can get that answer.  I recieved the model with the 24\" door and attempted to follow the instruction manual to change the door from the right side to the left side door mount.  The light switch on the upper left side of door hits the door and will not allow you to shut the door.  First instructed it could be removed.  This is also the switch that allows the machine to run when the door is shut.  Next instructed that the light switch could not possibly be in the way because it was on the top of the door in the middle.  Supervisor Page next told me I could schedule a Maytag repairman to come out and change the door over and that I would have to pay the cost due to not a manufacturer error.  TC estimate 130. for service call.  Unbelievable on this 1 week old washer.  Owners manuel for the 27 inch dryer instructs the owner to remove hinges and all screws and rotate the inside door within the outside door.  This looks like it may work but because it did not separate easily andmy model is the 24 \" door I did not want to disassemble and void warranty.  Final instruction is to follow the manuel for the procedure.  That would be fine if I had a owners manuel for the correct model and it addressed the light switch in the left upper corner.  So, Merry Christmas.  I have a working washer and dryer but can not replace the doors to the laundry room due to the door placement.  Clear advertisement:  Door can be left or right swing adjusted.  Do not expect to get any resolve or compassion from Maytag!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2949, "id": 520340, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 417, "len_tokens": 471, "text": "I admit it - I love Bosch products. So, when I purchased my new home in the negotiations I saw a horrible stove and told the owner in the negotiations that I didn't want that one and would purchase a new one. Initially, I found this stove for $3800.00 and my husband told me in so many 'not so kind words' that this stove was never going to make it into our new home. However, I found it much less expensive and he consented and said go for it. Bravo to this company for being reasonably priced!!!!\n\nI purchased it and the company confirmed delivery and stayed in touch with us. Due to issues with power lines, the driver had to call us and navigate another way into our development and we helped him through it. He was super nice and highly recommended. We couldn't ask for a more polite driver. Unlike AJ Madison who was a nightmare with our Bosch washer and dryer I purchased at the same time, communication was excellent and follow up was excellent.\n\nWe had so many issues with our washer and dryer through AJ Madison that I wish I paid more and just went through this seller and purchased everything through them. They are the very best. I still have to buy a refrigerator and will definitely be purchasing through this company. They are top of the line.\n\nThe stove works amazingly well. Heating up in induction is nice. Yes, you will hear it but I do not find it annoying at all. Regular heating is the same way. The console is easy to read and to understand. The book makes everything very clear for you understand.\n\nThe top of the stove is awesome to say the least. Induction uses less energy and heating food or water is amazingly fast. Buttons are easy to push. Speed heating allows one to heat fast, and the second that you go down on the numbers (1-9) you'll see your water or whatever you are cooking reduce in bubbling or whatever it is doing. I love that because you have better control over the quality of the food that you make.\n\nWhen installing we did not have to hire an electrician though Bosch does recommend it. If you have basic electric skills you can do it. I did it myself, and yes - I am a woman.\n\nI would buy this stove again in a heartbeat and would use this seller again without any hesitation.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2950, "id": 224960, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 353, "len_tokens": 490, "text": "Our dryer went and, after much research, discovered we needed a new motor.  After having great luck with Amazon and finding awesome deals, I figured I'd order it here.  When it arrived, one major telltale sign (that it wasn't the right one) didn't stick out right away so, in my excitement of having a working dryer, I ran downstairs to put it in.  It didn't set right so it made it really hard to get the spring clamps back on.  Then once I got it all back together and turned it on, there was an awful scraping sound.  Upon investigation, the blower fan was now rubbing on the housing of the dryer vent.  Ripped it apart again and compared it to the bad motor.  Stood them on their ends and the new motor was a half-inch shorter pulley end to blower fan end of the shaft.  On a repair forum, someone suggested maybe it was another motor and posted a pic and that's when everything clicked.\n\nOn the blower fan end of the motor shaft, the collar around the bearings is BLUE.  The new one I received was ORANGE.  That was the major difference!!  And, nowhere on the new motor, did it say the model number 279787.  The model I needed was 279827 as shown in the above pic. So, now being shafted out a return shipping fee of $10.50 (but was promised a 20% discount on my next order...yeah like I'm going to chance dealing with THEM AGAIN!!), I wanted to make sure everyone knows what they're truly looking for.\n\nThis motor is for pre-1996 dryers so that gets you a head start.\n\n279827...Can also be referenced as 3395652 (old Whirlpool motor order number), 695925, 8066207\n\n279787...Can also be references as 8539556, 3395654, model S58NXMZS-6968\n\nThere's many other parts numbers that can be cross-referenced with the 279827, but the big difference is the color of the bearing collar.\n\nAs far as the motor itself is concerned...it's a good motor.  Like others have posted, it's not as quiet as the original, but not much louder and hey, if it works, who cares?!?  :-)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2951, "id": 111564, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 370, "len_tokens": 497, "text": "A great 5-star range hood, but a 3-star challenge to install.  It's heavier, deeper and taller than most hoods.\n\nIf you have to install it with duct fittings attached you may find (as I did) the mounting instructions are void: the slip mount slots may need more travel space than your last hood left you.\n\nThe electrical connections must be squeezed into a tiny black cube at the top right back corner--in a cavern of empty space.\n\nThe rear mounting screws slots are barely accessible or visible from below.  Tightening them is even iffier as they are buried 7\" deep and parts below push your driver roughly 7 degrees out of plumb, causing the phillips bit to chew the screw.\n\nHere's how I recommend installing it.\n\nPull the stove.  Trying to work over it will triple your work time and exhaust your vocabulary of expletives. Affix any necessary ducting fittings and put a plastic grommet in the electrical knockout hole. (No room for romex or cord clamps.) Drill 2 new 3/16\" mounting holes about 1\" inboard of the rear mounting slots to allow your mounting screws a straight drive.  Pre-strip the insulation from your connecting wires.\n\nTo mount: Lay a 2X6 across your countertops and from it raise the hood with spreader clamps or 2X posts with stepping wedges.  Insert the power cord and position the hood flush to cabinet & back wall.  Drive in the front mount screws in the factory slots.  Drive the back mounting screws into your custom holes using a cordless and 2 stacked driver shafts.  You'll need to illuminate these dark corners to find the holes, and to connect the power wires.  It's mostly black in there.\n\nLighting advisory: The 6-watt LED lights recommended by EricinGA work great and are much easier to install/remove than the halogens because they're 1/4\" longer.  But if you're fastidious about styling you may resent the protrusion in an otherwise smooth surface.  Finding a shorter LED won't help: The suction cup for installing the (flush) halogens slips off LEDs.\n\nAll caveats aside, I love this hood.  Enormous suction, great lighting & controls, makes less noise on high than the old hood did on low.  I'd buy it--and even install it--again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2952, "id": 339489, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 404, "len_tokens": 462, "text": "February 5, 2015: I just replaced the broken upper rack parts of my Kitchen Aid dishwasher with this kit (purchased from another website before it was available from Amazon). This new rack roller design uses steel components and appears to be a more robust design. The installation is relatively simple although the included instructions could be improved by using better pictures.\n\nA little background: My dishwasher had stopped working altogether.  A repairman determined I needed a new pump and noted that the upper rack was out of position. His repair estimate rivaled the cost of buying a new machine (which is what I decided to do). So after spending $60 for the service call, I was looking things over and saw why the rack was out of position. A roller on the rack was out of it's track. Upon removing the rack and looking closer, I saw how the rollers are attached and observed that some small plastic roller support pieces were broken off and missing.  Some easy Google research found this to be a common problem. Since I had planned to buy a new machine anyway, I figured it wouldn't hurt to start taking things apart. Minor disassembly led me straight to the reason my dishwasher had stopped functioning. Broken pieces of the roller supports had found their way into the food chopper mechanism and caused the blade to jam. I removed the broken pieces, reassembled the parts  and the machine ran like new! This $33 repair kit fixed the rack positioning problem and ultimately saved me the several hundred $dollars I would have spent on a new dishwasher. While shopping for this kit, I noticed that some websites still sell the original design (all plastic) rack parts which are prone to failing in the same manner I (and many others) experienced. This kit uses steel components that should be more durable and is actually cheaper than the all plastic design at some websites.\n\nIn retrospect: I suspect that the repairman knew what was causing the problem all along and simply didn't want to be bothered with an inexpensive repair. I have to wonder how many perfectly good dishwashers have been replaced due to tiny pieces of plastic broken. As I stated, I have just completed the repair. I will provide an update on the longevity of this repair kit after some time has passed but I am expecting positive results.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2953, "id": 26437, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 360, "len_tokens": 479, "text": "These replacement filters are used on a double-reservoir Vornado humidifier.  Minimum fan speed setting.  Maximum humidity setting.  New York City one bedroom apt, used in the living room.  Dry air.  Please pass the hand lotion.  (Ugh.)  After a few days of usage (without letting the humidifier accidentally go dry), these filters seem to be doing the job fine.\n\nSome things to note.  Upon receiving the item, I compared these replacement filters with a previous set of Vornado filters.  The dimensions are the same.  Same LxWxThickness.  Two things that caught my eye.  (1) Between each filter is a stiff metal mesh layer.  Imagine a white bread sandwhich with a thin smear of silver in the middle.  That's what each of these things look like.  At first, I couldn't figure out what these internal meshworks would be for, but after I soaked each one in the shower, it became evident.  The wet filters are flimsier than the originals, and without the wire mesh, the wet filters would fold and flop everywhere.  The mesh seems to give it some backbone.  (2) The mesh weave is looser than the Vornado filters.  Like comparing the grids on graph paper with a chain-linked fence.  Well, not that extreme, but noticeable.  The Vornado filter is thinner stripped and more tightly woven.  These replacement filters are broader stripped and more openly woven.\n\nPerformance-wise, given the conditions listed above, I don't notice any problems.  In fact, it would seem that these replacement filters are holding up.  The base water is able to wick up and stay up to the very top of the filters.  The top outside edge of the filters are a little dry and cracky, but most of the filter remains moist and white.  This is different from my experience with the Vornado tight-weave filters, which would often dry well out at the tops of each filter.  The living room doesn't seem to suffer from any problems associated with dry air.  We are not getting static shocked in our own apartment, so that's good.  Lastly, there are no overt odors associated with these filters.\n\nOverall, we are happy with the price, shipping, and function of these filters.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2954, "id": 98507, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 376, "len_tokens": 475, "text": "Four years later and this dishwasher is still an absolute piece of garbage! I bought it in Nov. 2009 from Lowe's along with all the other Gallery appliances, and have struggled with it ever since. In the first year I had two motor's replaced, and have dealt with intermittent whining and dirty dishes ever since. I bought the extended warranty which covered the motors but nothing else. Frigidaire didn't care that the dishes don't come out clean, there's no coverage for that! Countless times I have to run two cycles, two 90 MINUTE cycles! On the hottest and longest setting! And the dishes come out dirtier than they went in. So then I have to hand wash them anyway. And I always rinsed my dishes before putting them in. I have tried five detergent brands at the recommendation of Lowe's, the repairman, and Frigidaire, all of which usually wouldn't dissolve all the way because the detergent door wouldn't open properly. Frigidaire made it clear that it was the hard water that caused the machine not to clean as well and dumping vinegar in regularly would help. Well that would work for one washing then back to usual. Here I am four years later after cursing this machine all along..and I came home to a flooded kitchen just like other reviewers! I determined I was finally getting rid of it! Went and bought a new one (Whirlpool), and after removing the Frigidaire I discovered that there had been a slow leak from the front corner of the door probably for years because under my floormat and all under the machine my wood floors are warped! And the side of the cabinet is flaking apart! I'm glad I decided to get the new one or I wouldn't have realized how bad my floors were, and I just can't believe what a piece of crap $500 will get you! You can't trust this machine and you won't have clean dishes!! I don't care if they \"updated\" it, here's your warning--I wouldn't buy any Frigidaire dishwashers. I have forgotten how a dishwasher is actually supposed to work. Lowe's just arrived and took the Frigidaire away, I didn't even want to try and sell it to someone...Looking forward to my Whirlpool!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2955, "id": 9931, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 341, "len_tokens": 407, "text": "Nice basic replacement for the broken range hood that came with our house. The old NuTone was completely dead, so, we purchased this as a replacement. The product came packaged relatively okay. There was a small dent in the upper fold on the back of the unit, but since it would be barely noticeable, we didn't bother replacing it. The NuTone I took out was recessed in the top, and the electrical supply from the wall was near the top of the unit about 3 inches over from the corner. This unit is completely flush topped and has two knockouts, one on the top, and one in the rear about 7 inches in from the corner. I had to cut a swath of the drywall behind the hood to get the power supply to line with the knockout. Not a huge issue, but slightly annoying.\n\nThere are instructions for a recessed cabinet install as well. The unit out of the box is fine for a flush bottom cabinet. Figures I have recessed bottoms. Instead of installing filler wood to make flush for the mounting holes, I opted to use longer wood screws with washers and tie right into the bottom shelf in the rear, and use smaller holes on the front lip of the range hood to bite into the front fascia of the cabinet. Make sure you drill pilots for the screws. 1/8\" drill bit works beautifully. Once hung, make your electrical connections. There are no wire nuts supplied, so, make sure you have some handy. Everything else went beautifully, the unit is solidly in place, and everything works perfectly. Switches are substantial and we put a 75 watt equivalent LED bulb in there, so we can actually see what we are cooking now!\n\nI would have rated 4.5 due to the dent in the unit. The box was not damaged, so, it came from the factory with that issue. Since unit works as desired and it wasn't a huge problem with the dent, it retained a 5 star review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2956, "id": 120361, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 382, "len_tokens": 494, "text": "Forgive me as I have seemingly misplaced the manual.  I have arrived at the Amazon.com site to research which washer I have.  My washer is a non agitator Maytag Centennial and I think it is a MVWC400 as there is no agitator.  I admit the unit uses very little water and demands HE laundry soap.  This Maytag requires longer wash cycles.  But, I like this machine very much.  The cost was a bit more than my last washer, circa 2002 by about 40% greater cost.  I did get a great deal for my prior washer, but I had an arrangement in a rental and I had to leave it behind after 10 years use.\n\nThis Maytag Centennial has been used by me for 33 loads.  The tub is huge and once I have filled it.  I usually fill it about as much as the washer I owned previously, mentioned above.  Once, I washed major bedding, filling the washer as only a laundry mat machine would usually suffice.  It worked, and my intent is to stay away from washing loads of such loads.\n\nTwice to three times a week, I wash three shirts, socks, underwear, three pairs of jeans, a bath towel, and numerous hand towels.  I believe this is a full load.  I always wash on the 'Heavy' Soil Level; 'Tap Cold' Wash Temp; 'Normal' Wash; 'Extra Rinse' On; 'Off' Fabric Softener setting.  I have used no other settings.  My wash is always clean and dryer than other washers I have owned.  I have used washers for forty and more years, too!\n\nAs the price is 40% higher than my previous washer, I am hesitant to relay positives for purchasing this washer.  The unit functions flawlessly and the clothes are dryer than previous experiences.  The soap demand is lower in quantity and the unit requires more time.  Ask me in five to ten years if I recommend this unit as this agitator-less and HE soap demanding unit, as is it continuing to satisfy my consumer demands.\n\nI thought I would just relay these thoughts as my search for a replacement manual led me into users who are dissatisfied with their Maytag Centennial clothes washer.  The manual describes how to clean the washer after thirty washings.\n\nElse,\nB Al Gore's Leer Jet:\nDon", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2957, "id": 296641, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 418, "len_tokens": 472, "text": "You need two things to install this, a good wrench and plumbers tape which oddly enough was not included.\n\nHaving said that, this was extremely easy to assemble I began using it within 15 minutes of unboxing it.\n\nI had just washed my dishes when the delivery man came, so I just ran around the house looking for random stuff to wash because I was excited and wanted to use it. I grab some old nasty ashtrays from the backyard and some old dusty knickknacks and went to town.\n\nIt did a fantastic job. And it was so quiet I had to keep checking to make sure that everything was working well. At first I was nervous to leave it unattended I was scared there would be a leak somewhere but no leaks.\n\nThe next day I used it for all my dirty dishes. I was still a bit nervous to leave it unattended wondering what would happen if I had fallen asleep and left the water running all night long. I was relieved to know that it automatically controls the water so that's not a problem.\n\nThe dishes come out clean and sparkling. It doesn't dry dishes so it is recommended that you open the dishwasher and pull the rack out and let those dishes air-dry which only takes me a few minutes.\n\nIt looks nice on the counter and having it has improved my quality of life. Now I can get my nails done because before my nails were wrecked by washing dishes 3 times a day. I also have more time to do things I'd rather do.\n\nThe thing I like best, is that there are two removable racks. So you can reconfigure the tray to hold your dishes pots and pans and whatever. I have to laugh because well my dishes are large, my bowls are deep, and my coffee cups are huge. So loading my big American dishes into this tiny dishwasher requires a bit of strategy haha. But I got the hang of it.\n\nI like the way it was packaged. The appliance box was delivered inside an anonymous plain box which I like. The appliance box itself was very easy to open you simply snip the ties and lift the Box off and there's your washing machine.\n\nThere isn't anything about this item that would make me hesitant to recommend it to someone. If you have a small kitchen or you just don't have a dishwasher get it it's worth it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2958, "id": 458037, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 389, "len_tokens": 482, "text": "I have the previous version of Danby dishwasher, 496, but I want to comment on how great a machine it has been for me.  I bought the DDW496W almost 4 years ago, while living in small apartment, expecting my 4th child.  I knew I would never be able to keep up with the hand-washing any more.  I have never regretted the decision.  After getting used to the size of the machine and getting into the groove of what I could fit into it, I was very satisfied.\n\nThe only trouble I have ever had with the machine is that the hoses have loosened a bit over time, and water has leaked under the machine.  Once I realized the problem, and tightened the hoses back up, the leaking stopped.  There was also a time when I noticed a black scum building up around the heating element, but it turned out to be a by-product of my natural dishwasher detergent and had nothing to do with the machine itself.  Another time, the machine sudsed all over the place, but that was because I had tried out a new detergent and added rinse guard all at once.  Too much detergent.  Now I use the basic store brand gels, about 1T per load, and never have any trouble with over-sudsing.\n\nWe have a lot of dirty dishes, and I run my machine at least 3 times a day.  When a load is done, I either leave it in the Danby with the door all the way open to air dry, or unload it into a dish-drying rack and put in the next load (depending on how quickly I need to wash the next dishes).  It's worth it to me to run it 3 times a day, and only wash pots, pans, and other big items at the end of the day ... as opposed to washing every thing by hand every day.\n\nI also love the water-heating element.  It gets the water super-hot and cleans/sanitizes my dishes very well.\n\nWith very little TLC, and running the machine so often, I am surprised at long it has lasted.  I still use it every day, now with six kids in a 3-bedroom apartment.\n\nI love this machine and I recommend it to anyone who is looking for an alternative to hand-washing all those dishes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2959, "id": 88451, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2960, "id": 53283, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 389, "len_tokens": 496, "text": "I bought this dryer to go along with my Haier HLP23E portable washing machine. I have currently owned it for only about a week, but it has performed well. Admittedly, I did not purchase it from Amazon, but I bought it used from Rent-A-Center for $150. The only problem with it so far is a constant clicking sound while it is running, but that may be because it is used. I haven't tried to open the case yet to see if it may be something in the baffles. The dryer has a place to hook up an exhaust hose, but I do not use it, and have had no problems not doing so. It makes the room only a little more warm, but not too noticeable. Below is a list of pros and cons about the dryer:\n\nCONS -\n\nMore of warnings, they do not take away from rating\n\n* HEAVY - It's not something you can just pick up and carry in the house, or up the steps to apartment in my case.\n* SMELL - Again, probably because mine was used, but may have been sitting in the store for a while. There was a burning rubber smell for the first few days of using it, but that has now dissipated.\n\nPROS -\n\n* LOAD SIZE OF 3.4 CUBIC FEET - Has a larger capacity than my Haier HLP23E, which has 1.46 cu. ft. so basically it can easily take any load I throw in it.\n* ACCU-DRY SENSOR - It can detect when the clothes are dry, so it runs until it dries. In my case, and as long as you don't overload it, a load should get done drying in one to two hours. Not bad for a portable/compact unit.\n* LINT TRAP - The lint trap is pretty good, and catches a lot of lint. You just have to be sure to check it after each load, or possibly every two loads.\n\nCONCLUSION -\n\n* It's a very good dryer, but pretty expensive online.\n* It's pretty heavy, so be sure to have a dolly to load it on.\n* Putting casters (ones with brakes) on it are a good idea if you will be needing to move it within the house/apartment.\n\nTo see it in action, here is a video I made: http://youtu.be/UkFNZCiJ1Lw", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2961, "id": 34454, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 260, "len_tokens": 402, "text": "Not long after moving into our home, the clear supply line to our ice maker broke and started flooding the kitchen.  Fortunately my wife was home, and we have the tools necessary to shut off all the water to our house (the shutoff valve for just the fridge is pretty hard to get to).\n\nKnowing how costly that could have been, I upgraded to this pex line.\n\nIn order to get it through some small holes, and improve our filter situation, I cut the hose about 5 feet from one end, and then cut another 1 foot long piece.  I attached the long piece to the source pipe, then fed its cut end (smaller now, without a connector) through the holes in the floor and walls.  I attached it to a push-in quick connect shut-off valve (&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/John-Guest-PPSV040808WP-Single-Straight-Shut-Off-Valve-1-4-34-Tube-OD-x-1-4-34/dp/B003YKF2E2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">John Guest PPSV040808WP Single Straight Shut-Off Valve, 1/4\" Tube OD x 1/4\"</a>&nbsp;).  I then attached the 1 ft section of this hose, then an in-line filter that also has push-in quick connections, then the 5 ft end piece of this hose, and connected that to the fridge.\n\nSo, I was able to feed it through holes smaller than the end compression fittings, didn't have to deal with putting a new compression fitting on, and I have a filter that lasts much longer and is cheaper than the ones that go inside the fridge.  And, when I do need to change the filter, I can shut off the inline valve that I installed right next to it.  Pretty cool.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2962, "id": 151627, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 325, "len_tokens": 404, "text": "Works great. Not a review but might help someone as I was helped reading the notes made by others, so won't go over them here except the point out not the touch the black part of the unit.\n\nMy dryer is maytag model DG8000.\n\n1. These do burn out. Some websites suggested these burn out like light bulbs and it's common, others label this a non common occurrence, I checked continuity on everything suspecting something else burnt it out, it was the only thing that went bad. Replaced it now back in business.\n\n2. When this unit goes bad you won't smell any gas as continuity is broken so electricity isn't getting to the solenoids to release any gas. Also I didn't hear any clicking either, again since no electricity was getting to the solenoids. Now my dryer still turned on, tumbled, just wasn't getting heat, so the igniter along with the solenoids complete one circuit to release the gas. After I replaced this part the gas released and about 10 seconds after the glow, which gave out a nice flame.\n\n3. I used a cheap harbor freight free multimeter to check continuity. Another website said to use the lowest ohm setting, which didn't work on mine,  I found out another ohm setting did work. Whatever ohm setting that reads greater than 1 when you connect the black and red leads to complete a circuit, thus you have continuity, is what you can use to check your dryer parts. My ohm setting that worked gave a reading of 10.5 when the leads touched, and 1 when not touching. Everything I touched with the leads read greater than 1, except the igniter, which gave a reading of 1 and visual inspection showed a burnout out area.\n\n4. Thanks to repairclinic.com for all their helpful info and tips even though Amazon had it cheaper. Youtube is also very helpful for a visual aid in disassembling and reassembling.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2963, "id": 220416, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 387, "len_tokens": 487, "text": "UPDATE - On June 3, 2017, I wrote to Avanti through their website for customer assistance.  Telling them I had a refrigerator that was freezing my food.  I received an email response today June 27, 2017 from \"Customer Service\" saying if the problem hasn't been resolved to call a their number.  Wow, what TERRIBLE CUSTOMER SERVICE.  To think someone could wait for over 3 weeks with a bad refrigerator is outrageous.  I spent over $400 for the refrigerator and only had it for less than 3 months - and this is the way they treated me.  I had to buy a new refrigerator to keep my food from freezing! SHAME ON AVANTI!\n\n***\n\nI bought this refrigerator on March 15th and had a quick delivery.  Initially I gave it 4 stars because it is a perfect size and quantity for my studio apartment.\n\nUnfortunately, I have had a terrible time keeping the refrigerator temperature between 37 - 39 degrees and freezer at 0.  And even with these temperatures, my lettuce, fruit and vegetables tend to freeze - especially the lettuce. Also, anything that is in the back of the refrigerator next to the wall will freeze at these temperatures.  The refrigerator comes with a dial temperature inside of 1-7, with 7 being the coldest.  I keep the dial bet 4-5 and bought individual temperature gauges for the refrigerator and freezer so it would be easy to read the 37-39 for refrigerator and 0 for freezer.  The freezer does get shavings of ice and I scrap off, and have defrosted it once already.  I just noticed my ice tea pitcher was leaking so pulled out the trays, and the pictures below show the ice build up.  The ice was so full the drainage hole was cover with it.  One picture shows the ice in the refrigerator, the other picture shows the ice a bit clearer in the sink.\n\nI have written Avanti who has the 1 year warranty and will update my review upon hearing what they advise.  I know I have spent too much money replacing frozen lettuce and vegetables - this is terrible.\n\nThe refrigerator was very expense $406 for a 7.4 cuft but was willing to pay for a perfect refrigerator for my size needed., now it's just frustrating.  Perhaps I have a lemon?.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2964, "id": 87795, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2965, "id": 2723, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 357, "len_tokens": 418, "text": "I have lap siding (Hardi Plank cement boards) with a 5 inch reveal.  To mount the base of the dryer I put down a thick bead of silicon caulk on the siding where the square base would be positioned and then fastened the base with the enclosed screws at the four corners of the base.  I pre-drilled the holes into the cement siding.  I used the caulk to make sure I had an air tight seal.  I let the base and caulk set for 24 hours and then placed the vent top with the floating valve into the base, removed the cap, and turned on the dryer to check the seal.  The floating valve shot right up out of the base almost 2 feet into the air, so I felt confident that the seal around the base was air tight and all the exhaust air from the dryer was coming out of the vent.  I fastened the top of the vent to the siding with the enclosed screw, again pre-drilling the hole in the the cement siding.  When the cap is in place the cap directs the exhaust air downward and that keeps the floating valve from shooting out of the top of the vent.  The vent works just as advertised, sealing up nicely when the dryer is off.  I noted that some lint tends to accumulate between the lip of the vent top and the cap, so when I check the insides of the vent for cleaning by removing the cap, I will be careful to scrape around the lip of the vent where the cap fits and keep that area lint-free.  Overall a great product, fairly easy installation (especially if you don't have lap siding to contend with), and a lot better design than the normal dryer vent with the plastic hinged vanes that open when the dryer is on and close (somewhat) when it is off.  We had a mouse get inside the normal dryer vent and it died there, so that was not a good thing.  The Heartland vent will prevent that from happening and provide a positive seal against the outside air.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2966, "id": 87171, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2967, "id": 87379, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2968, "id": 87491, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2969, "id": 87179, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2970, "id": 95209, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 369, "len_tokens": 459, "text": "Although I did not have any previous issues with the standard samsung filter (Aqua-Pure), I decided I'd try this one to save a little money. I did not buy the WSS-1 filter from Amazon, but because of what occurred when I used it, I decided it was the best way to post my experience.\nAfter an issue-less Water Sentinel WSS-1 filter install and water cycling, we were gone for a couple hours. Upon returning, there was a pool of water at the base of our refrigerator. Opening up the refrigerator door, there were drops coming from the top of the filter. I have never had a leak using the Aqua-Pure filter.  I removed the Water Sentinel filter, cleaned up the mess, and decided I'd not buy this filter again, but would revert back to the Aqua-Pure filter. After a couple days, I attempted to install a new Aqua-Pure filter. It now wouldn't fit into the filter assembly opening. Something was keeping it from engaging into the fitting as it always did before. I thought maybe there was something possibly left over from the Water Sentinel filter, but I couldn't see or feel anything that might be in the way. I subsiquently took apart the water filter assembly, and found out why the Aqua-Pure filter would no longer fit.  There is a plastic filter engagement coupler that is not fixed- it can rotate.  It appears that the Water Sentinel filter has a different locking pattern than the Aqua-Pure filter.  When I installed the Water Sentinel filter (to the full counter-clockwise hard stop), it rotated that engagement collar to a position where the Aqua-Pure filter could no longer be installed.  Having taken the filter engagement assembly apart,  I found I could take a straight slot screwdriver and rotate the plastic collar back to it's original position.  The Aqua-Pure filter could then be re-installed.\nTaking apart the filter engagement assembly took some handyman type experience (as it's not very easy to reach to the back of the refrigerator with wrenches and screwdrivers), but it was doable.  I don't know if others have had this problem, but to me it was serious enough of an issue that I thought I should share it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2971, "id": 317955, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 455, "text": "We have a relatively new GE refrigerator:  we moved into our current home in August 2012, and our refrigerator was new at that time, so it is less than three years old.  We had a GE model in our old home as well, and although that one was over 12 years old, the drip tray was in perfect condition.  Unfortunately, the drip tray on our current model (GSCS3PGXSS) was much more poorly made, being cheap plastic that was coated to appear a faux stainless to match the refrigerator.  In the brief time we have owned this new refrigerator, the coating has chipped away, exposing black plastic underneath.  Even worse, this problem has allowed bacteria to form, as we have been unable to adequately clean and sanitize the tray.\n\nMy husband began searching for a replacement.  On the manufacturer's web site, they were charging over SIXTY dollars for this replacement part (not including shipping).  As much as this problem was an issue for us, there was NO WAY we were going to pay that amount.  Luckily, after further research, my husband found that this replacement part appeared to be the right size for our refrigerator.  This was somewhat difficult to determine for several reasons.  First, plugging our model number into Amazon search feature at the top of the item listing did not work; it just said \"model not found.\"  Second, Amazon lists the WRONG dimensions for this item.  The dimensions Amazon has listed are the SHIPPING dimensions; the actual item dimensions are approximately 7.5\" wide and 4\" deep.\n\nA final concern was that this drip tray was black, not faux stainless steel like the original that came with our refrigerator as well as the refrigerator itself.  We thought that this would probably be fine, and you can see from the photo that I included that we were absolutely right!  The black tray actually looks BETTER than the original, as it provides a nice contrast with the refrigerator and matches the digital display.  This drip tray also seems better made, and we feel confident that it will last longer than the other.  And finally, we paid less than ten dollars!  We are only sorry we waited this long to replace the old tray.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2972, "id": 54723, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 350, "len_tokens": 422, "text": "This is the second time I've used this product on our Maytag dishwasher.  With vinyl-coated steel racks it is inevitable that they will rust.  That means you have two options: wait until they disintegrate and buy new racks or a whole new dishwasher (both are $$$), or do something about it.  Two years ago I used this product and it worked well.  At that time I didn't go crazy doing prep and that's one reason why I had to revisit some of the same areas again this time.  In the current application, I spent a good amount of time (probably too much) prepping the racks.  I cut back the original coating to expose all the rust, sanded the rust off where I could, and used a rust inhibitor on the metal.  I let the racks thoroughly dry (24 hours) from the inhibitor so there was no moisture trapped.  Finally, I applied two-plus coats of this liquid vinyl to the affected areas working hard to make sure they were completely sealed and thick enough to protect.  I had the \"caps\" from one of this vendor's other kits left over from last time.  When appropriate I cut the end off the cap and slide it over the raw metal post to give some extra protection (then coat it with the liquid).  I purchased two bottles of the vinyl and had plenty to give a good coating to about 10 spots (some small some large).  I definitely recommend buying an extra bottle for the small incremental cost because you don't want to skimp on your coverage.  My experience is that this stuff also remains viable for a couple of years if you make sure the bottle is closed well and keep it at room temperature.  The two year old \"left over\" stuff I had was not as fluid as the new, but it does the job over time for any \"touch ups\".  Note: Make sure you wear gloves because this stuff sticks to your hands (and everything else) and work in a WELL VENTILATED AREA because of the fumes.  Have fun!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2973, "id": 519108, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 361, "len_tokens": 441, "text": "UDPATE: Interestingly when I tried to post the same review feedback below to LG's website, they rejected it :)\n\nGood product, but be VERY careful about how you want to handle issues. While LG supposed makes better quality products from their competitors however I've been warned by many about their terrible services. I figured that if I had a the best product I wouldn't need service and worst case likely it'll happen during warranty.\n\nThe product works great, we're very happy with it. The dryer however had a busted bulb since the day we bought it. I called LG service and gave them the details, serial number, date of purchase (it was less than 75 days old). I was categorically told that the bulb was a \"consumable\" item and not covered by warranty. I called back and chatted about 6 times after being hung up on 3 times, denied warranty coverage 3 times and finally had to give up. I'll be filing a complaint with the BBB.\nHow can a defective bulb be a \"consumable\"? The get to the bulb I need to remove the door and unscrew some parts. Really a consumable?\n\nThat $1700 I'll never spend with LG again for a 50c bulb.\n\nSummarze:\nProduct works great - no complaints\nAssume the warranty doesn't exist (either buy extended or buy some other product).\n\nWhich now makes me think, after doing a month of research, Samsung, Whirlpool, LG, Kenmore etc etc, going through consumer reports, websites, amazon reviews, home depot reviews and scouring the web, everyone said LG quality was the best (barring those few who had bad pieces) but unanimously LG service was the worst. I just it's just my luck to have to call in LG service and hit the infamous \"service\". But really I was trying to get the best product and longer product life so I don't have to buy another one soon. Was it worth it? Now I think I should have gone with Samsung, pretty sure the product would work just as well, maybe it has as shorter life but alteast if something goes wrong I know Samsung will stand by it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2974, "id": 45013, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 351, "len_tokens": 430, "text": "I wanted to wait a while before giving a review. I had a different model before this one--a cheap gray thing that I got from Target--and two of them broke within 6 months. Although the mechanism on this machine is the same as that one, this thing is a battle veteran that won't quit.\n\nI applaud NewAir for making a machine built to last. I recommend it heartily to anyone looking for an ice machine that doesn't require a plumbing hookup. I wouldn't call this \"portable\"--it's pretty heavy--but it will go anywhere you put it. I prefer it over those things built into freezers where your ice always tastes like freezer.\n\nA couple tips:\n\n1. Unless you regularly empty/change the water, the water will stagnate and the ice will start to taste funny and you may even get algae build-up. To solve this I started putting 1-2 drops of nascent iodine into the water when I fill it up. You can find nascent iodine here on Amazon. This doesn't affect the taste of the ice *at all* and may even be good for your health. Emptying the tank is somewhat unpleasant given where we have this thing situated in our kitchen, so anything to prevent that weekly ritual is worth it. I've been doing this for 3 months--haven't completely cycled the water since then--and the problem is solved for me.\n\n2. I recommend keeping the ice setting on small ice-cubes. There is a size selector for small/medium/large cubes. The small cubes seem to optimize the recycle rate of ice/water. When the machine spits out the ice one will occasionally fall right on top of its little sensor that it uses to determine if the ice basket is empty (this is a simple temperature sensor). So the machine thinks the basket is full but it's really just one cube confusing it while the basket is mostly full of small/melted bits. Changing the setting to small reduces this for me; I think because the small ones melt faster so if one does end up on top of the sensor it melts quickly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2975, "id": 105107, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 345, "len_tokens": 422, "text": "This is an amazing product. It was a bit scary to buy something big from amazon, but it arrived safe and sound.\n\n1. It's bigger than I thought it would be and can hold more clothes than I imagined.\n\n2. It is efficient. Doesn't need much soap, doesn't use much water, doesn't use much power, and leaves things impressively clean.\n\n3. It is easy. I wheel it into the bathroom, hook it up, and let it run. I still watch it out of curiosity and because I'm getting to know the machine, but I can just walk away.\n\n4. Clothes doesn't tangle anywhere near as often or as bad as I expected based on reviews.\n\n5. Lint is nowhere near as bad of a problem on my clothes as I expected based on reviews.\n\n6. Definitely get a lint trap for the end of the drain hose. Don't bother with the flower-type lint traps in the tub... they don't do anything and are probably intended for the twin tub washers, not this one.\n\n7. It's fast. Quick cycle is good enough.\n\n8. Spin cycle dries things pretty well. hang to dry overnight.\n\n10. Connection options are a tough decision. I was hoping to keep it in place and not move it around but that didn't work out. But moving it isn't too bad and I'm used to it. I hooked it up to the sink temporarily, but I want an aerator on my bathroom sink, not the quick attach piece which shoots water out like a garden hose. So I went on a long search for pieces that would help me hook it up somewhere else. I decided on my shower. I got a t-valve for the shower, but I needed an adapter that goes from shower threading to standard sink aerator threading, so I could put the quick release adapter it came with in the shower.\n\n11. I do 2-3 loads a week, twice a week, for me and my wife. Everything we own fits, except a full size duvet and a large blanket.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2976, "id": 513192, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 336, "len_tokens": 409, "text": "This is our second set of LG front load washer and dryer in this model (or the model just prior to this one); had to leave the first set with the condo we sold.  This is a wonderful set, no operational problems and easy to use.  We had the first set for 5 years and loved them so much, we bought this model again for the new residence.  I do want to mention something we learned on this install.  After we installed the washer and did the test run, it banged and shook and hopped across the floor like it was horribly off balance and was going to shake the house down.  We mentioned this to a friend, and he advised us there are several bolts on the back side of the machine that hold the drum in place so it won't get damaged in shipment.  You need to remove these bolts before installing the machine.  We did this and the washer performs perfectly.  Later we found this information in the owner's manual; it wasn't in the install instructions.  Who knew?  Wanted to mention this so you can avoid this problem.  UPDATE:  After we fixed the drum bolt problem and machine working perfectly, I noticed that when the water \"shots' release into the tub while it's filling/calculating the load, there is a very loud BAM that sounds like a sledgehammer is hitting the wall.  I didn't recall our first set doing that, but hubby found this neat gizmo called a MINI-RESTER, a water hammer arrester made by a company called Sioux Chief.  It costs about $6 and you install it on the back of the machine where the water hose comes in; you can also install it at the faucet source where the water hose connects.  PRESTO! It totally eliminated the noise!  Now it runs whisper quiet.  This is such a simple solution it makes you wonder why the manufacturer doesn't either engineer that feature into the machine, or at least supply that extra part.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2977, "id": 87283, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2978, "id": 273682, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 391, "len_tokens": 462, "text": "I received one Rosewill 1800 Watt Induction Cooker system and was surprised by the quality of the cooking unit and the included metal pot with glass lid. My wife and I found the packing material to be of good quality, which kept the three pieces of the system from damage during shipping and handling.\nThe instruction pamphlet was clear and well written. We cleaned all three pieces with a sponge and mild dish soap, rinsed the pieces (pan, lid, and top surface of cooking unit) and tested the system with the metal pan 1/2 filled with tap water. It was the first time we had seen an induction cooker in operation - and it took a few minutes for us to grasp what was happening, watching the water in the pan begin to boil in a short time when compared with our installed home propane stove.\nI checked my wife's professional cooking pans (many sizes) with a strong magnet to be sure they would operate correctly, and all were found to attract the magnet.\nMy wife tested her largest pan the next day, simmering spices in coconut oil until they were a light brown, added pork chops and the glass lid, and\nfiddled with the power until she had the perfect temperature to cook the chops. Some 8 minuets later she added sliced mixed vegetables into the same pan and cooked them as the chops finished. She estimated that it took 12 minuets or so less than using the gas stovetop to cook the same meal.\nThe glass cooktop remains hot for awhile after you remove your pan or pot. The cooktop surface is easy to wipe clean when cool, after each use.\nSome safety notes: 1. Make sure that all of the power cord stays behind the cooktop so it will not get tangled in your cooking implements, which might unexpectedly move the cooktop and pan. 2. Do not use the cooktop on top of a propane or natural gas stove. 3. Do not leave the cooktop unattended while cooking until you are confident that you understand how quickly the unit can cook; the various power levels and your cooking style will need to be experienced for you to become efficient. Just like you must gain experience if you switch from a gas stove to an electric stove, and visa-versa.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2979, "id": 23976, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 361, "len_tokens": 454, "text": "SLOW WATER MYSTERY SOLVED!!\n\nIf you're looking at the reviews, you'll see many that hate this filter complain about slow water flow.  Googling the issue with this filter you'll see it's really common on many other sites.  After many years of dealing with this, GE has finally rolled out a newer design.  Not sure when this happened, but Home Depot in the Chicago area started to carry the newer ones summer of 2014.  I waited until my 2nd filter to now leave a review here (deleted my old review since I couldn't figure out how to add image while updating an old review).\n\nAnyways, the new filter is GOOD with EXCELLENT water flow.  Just like when fridge was new.  I recommend you buy it in person at Home Depot so that you know you're buying the new design.  How do you tell the difference, please see the images in this review.  First, the box will look different.  Box design has MWF in bold black print and \"splash of water\" in bottom right.  The old packaging was green and blue.  Second, to confirm the new design see the comparison image I added.  Notice the new design has 2 tabs that protrude from what was the flat area of the old filter.  This is consistent with an old hack for the filter (that worked for me) of cutting out a plastic \"washer\" that assisted in pushing in the pointed button where the filter connects to.  You can see this \"pointed button\" when you take out the filter and look at the filter head.  If you push that in, you'll see that is where all the water supply enters the filter.  It was suspected the old design either did not depress that fully or the filter being flush just blocked the water supply some.  If you're wondering why the fridge wasn't like that when you bought it, it's like it was using the even older design made by Culligan.  You can google the info on that, but basic Culligan made the filters and there was a dispute between the 2 companies.\n\nAnyways, I hope this helps clear up the mystery for some folks.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2980, "id": 102693, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 352, "len_tokens": 449, "text": "The refrigerator came well-packed. I took an hour to cut it out of the box and reverse the door to open on the correct side. As I stood it up, it was wobbly. I went to adjust the two balance feet on the bottom front corners of the fridge and one was missing. I contacted Amazon to see if it was possible to just ship me the part, rather than wasting the time, money, effort and fuel on me repackaging the double-boxed unit and them paying the cost to return a 70+ pound unit. The answer to that would be: No.\n\nThe unit itself seemed nice, it started up when I plugged it in, but I've only had it for two hours, so I can't comment on it's long-term use. However, Amazon's wastefulness in not being able to get a simple screw-in foot to offset the wasted effort to return this unit is baffling to me.\n\nUPDATE (7/29/17) I've had the replacement for 5 months now and I'm upping the review from two to four stars. It does its job well, looks great, no problems so far.  Be aware, because of the glass front this is not going to make your beverages super cold. Using my Etekcity IR Thermometer, the temperature of the door glass is 63 degrees, meaning that a high-humidity day that raises the dew point above 63 will start condensation forming on the glass. It's not the fault of the unit, it's how dew point works. On humid summer days, I put a bar towel on the floor below the door because you will get condensation run-off. That's the issue with glass-front doors; there's a trade-off for the good looks. Using the same IR thermometer, it says the temp of the cans and bottles in the fridge are 50-52 degrees. That seems to read high, because the beer is cold. Just not 'edge of frost cold'. For reference though, the bottles and cans in my steel-front bar fridge read 50-52, maybe a 2 degree difference. I'd buy it again for the combination of price, looks and how it works.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2981, "id": 558735, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 405, "len_tokens": 473, "text": "Overall this range hood is an outstanding value, which makes it worthy of four stars. While it comes up short in a few areas, we were thrilled to find such an attractive, functional island range hood for less than $375 -- most of these hoods easily cost three or four times as much. For that price, you should be expect a few issues:\n\nFirst, we were very fortunate that this item was not damaged in shipping. Some of the parts were packaged so that they were actually sitting on top of the inner box lids, where they could have been bent or lost altogether.\n\nSecond, the instruction manual is a joke. It doesn't seem to be the right manual for this unit; even the schematic shown here on Amazon is missing from the book. No template is provided either. It provides no detail on mounting or supporting the hood. Inexplicably, the supplied hardware includes four whimpy drywall anchors -- if you tried to hang a 65-pound range hood from your ceiling with these, better call your insurance company now! Fortunately there are lots of YouTube videos that can help you figure it out. I ended up going into the attic and installing two 2x4 blocks between my rafters, and used those to attach the mounting bracket from below. Easy.\n\nMy last complaint concerns the lights -- the LEDs are dim and quite blue, while the control panel lights seem to be lasers that will blind anyone standing in front of the hood. We're going to add additional lights to our kitchen as part of our remodel, so not the end of the world.\n\nDespite these issues, there is a lot to love about this range hood. First, it is solidly built -- it feels much more solid than I expected for such an affordable unit.\n\nSecond, it moves a lot of air. I can't vouch for the CFM's, but it blasts air out of the vent on high. As nice as it looks, we got this hood to move air and it definitely does this well. It's also very quiet on low and medium; even on high you won't have any trouble carrying on a normal conversation.\n\nFinally, it looks great. We were worried that an island hood would draw too much attention in our small house. The design of this hood means you really won't notice it, but when you do it looks great!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2982, "id": 190890, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 326, "len_tokens": 417, "text": "After my 12 yr old 6 cu ft dryer finally gasped it's last breath needed a new one.  (had already  repaired old one 3 times, and thought it a fire hazard to attempt a 4th repair after seeing melted wires leading to thermostats)\n\nFirst, I attempted to purchase a dryer locally within 30-40 miles of my residence.  The earliest they could deliver was nearly 3 weeks out, and one outlet  gave me 6 weeks as the earliest they could deliver an appliance 30 miles.  Unwilling to wait that long, I took a chance and ordered a dryer from Amazon.\n\n5 business days between the date I ordered to the dryer being hand-carted through my back door by a polite young man (Cameron in Minnesota, you ROCK!).\n\nThe Amana NED4700 is everything I wanted at a very reasonable price.  Wrinkle guard, loud end of cycle buzzer, eco cycle, control over temp (independent of cycle temps) and an amazing amount of real estate on the inside.  I'm 5'6\", and I could probably easily fit inside this dryer.  It has more than enough room to fit king size down comforters I like to fluff weekly....with room to spare.  Actually leaves things more wrinkle-free than the old one, though I don't know if that's just due to the larger capacity of this dryer.\n\nWhat puzzles me is this:  how is it local retailers don't seem to want my money, nor care about any sort of timely delivery from a half hour drive away, and Amazon with billions in sales, who most assuredly doesn't need  or depend on the sale of an inexpensive clothes dryer was able to ship the dryer from Missouri to my doorstep in the middle of nowhere Minnesota in a couple of days?  Impressed with Amazon, not so much with local Minnesota merchants.\n\nOver all, very pleased with the dryer and the merchant.  If something happens to change that in the future, will update this post.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2983, "id": 405504, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 356, "len_tokens": 401, "text": "I purchased the 24\" unit to replace another beverage cooler. It can be free standing or built in. It's a quiet unit but rarely the fan is a bit noisy for a short period. It may be settling or needs adjustment on its feet.  The light is nice but is not automatic when you open the door and you have to manually control it. It only lights up the top two shelves well when the cooler is full but the blue neon is nice for effect. The door is light smoked glass but see through. It has great capacity and you can remove shelves if you want to stand up cans or bottles. The shelves are not adjustable. They are sturdy but rubber coated and not stainless steel. If you are using it for beer, it cools to a temperature that you usually get in a bar or restaurant. It is advertised to cool to 38 degrees and does. If you like your beer close to freezing, you have to go high end and spend $1500 or so. I would strongly recommend that you buy the protection plan from Square Trade that is offered at the time of purchase. They will come on site if there is a problem they can't diagnose over the phone (but read details). I only say this because of a previous cooler I had and the fact that this is a \"value\" purchase and things may go wrong as other reviews claim. You don't want to pay to ship this back to the manufacturer which some plans require or they don't have a service center in your area. I have not had any problems in the month that I owned it but The Plan is well worth the $57.00 for shipping costs alone plus you get an extra 3 years of protection. I gave this 5 stars because it's the best for the price. I am not a paid reviewer and received no discount or consideration to write a review.\n\nUpdate: the periodic noisy fan issue went away within a few days as the Manual suggested. Great product. No complaints.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2984, "id": 218358, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 341, "len_tokens": 413, "text": "This spin dryer is the best buy I've ever made.  I bought a mini panda washer too because I'm tired of lugging everything to the Laundromat every week and spending on average $10-15 a week on laundry.  After using the mini washer on the counter by my kitchen sink, I weakly wring out the clothes (don't waste too much effort on it like I used to, just enough to make it across the floor without dripping everywhere).  A few minutes in the spin dryer and the clothes come out almost dry.  I hang them up and usually within a couple hours they are dry.\n\nVery easy, very simple and it does an amazing job!\n\nIt even spins the excess soap out of the clothes.\n\nI have to say that the first few times I used the little washer and this dryer I was disgusted at the amount of soap residue that had been left in my clothes from the Laundromat.  I've gone over a week without using any detergent at all because of the soap residue still in my clothes.  The mini washer allows me to put 2-3 full size items of clothes in at a time (a couple of shirts or soft pants and shirts).  I fill halfway with water, turn the dial and it goes.  The water immediately was cloudy and sudsy as if I had put detergent in it.  Drain, refill with the clear water and go again... 3 and 4 cycles and more it took to get my clothes free of residual gunk.  There's no way to see this at the Laundromat as you can't just set it on extra rinse cycles.  I was horrified.\n\nMy clothes now come out super clean, aren't stiff or falsely soft... have little to no residue in them... and the spin dryer spins out any residue that may be left and it doesn't shrink the clothes up like regular dryers.  Very little lint... we keep a lint roller handy for any small threads and such.  This dryer is amazing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2985, "id": 541370, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 336, "len_tokens": 422, "text": "So far . . . . so good?\nTechnically, replacing this temp probe shouldn't solve the problems people are claiming, nor should it have solved ours? But one feels compelled to try the cheapest fix first . . . eh?\nAfter reading many follow up repair jobs by folks, you begin to realize, many of them are replacing this in the hopes of not needing the high dollar control board - as we did, only to find out, it wasn't the problem. Then, they get the price on the control board and realize, they can get the whole oven - NEW - for 450-600 bucks, about twice the cost of the control board. However, if, by the time they've done all the \"recommended\" repair/replacements options first and go ahead and buy a control board too, they already blew the cost of a whole new oven? Which is of course, by design of our one world disordered world of a throwaway society.\nNonetheless, \"partshousesupply\" - via Amazon Marketplace speedily got this Supco RA1986 Oven Sensor in our hands and, unlike other reviewers who must have ordered the wrong part, it DEFINITELY fits right into the oven, the wires are the exact length and connector is EXACTLY as the old assembly, hence,  it fits right in, clips right on to the harness and in our case, it worked just as it was supposed to! . . .. so far. . . . given what our stove was doing, like I said, \"technically\" this shouldn't have solved its problem? The oven element quit, the broiler element wouldn't shut off, the ovens' overheat alarm went off, and it spit out an error code. Had we not intentionally tripped the breaker, I believe the oven (or something) would have started on fire because it was nearly ready to self-combust by the time we arrived to a house full of smoke? Consequently, until this repair is thoroughly tested, we won't be walking away from any baking projects for a while. . .", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2986, "id": 468382, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 355, "len_tokens": 402, "text": "This is a nice looking stove and works like it should for cooking ang baking. Installation was easy and the gas line hooks up at the very bottom on the back. This makes it easier to pull out farther from the wall for future cleaning behind it. Just remember you must have a 110 volt electrical outlet either behind the stove or within 12\" on the countertop. I had to use an extension cord for my hookup.\n\nThe negative things about this stove are as follows. The stamping process used on the stove top is not good. There are several areas of waviness and bad corners.\n\nAlso every gas stove I have ever seen you have to push in the stove burner knob and then turn on the gas. It is like they tried to do this but really it only works about 10 % of the time. The gas burner valves are very cheap and loose. I thought it was just my stove but when I went back to the appliance store I saw that all the Frigidaire stoves did this. If you are worried about little kids playing with the knobs this could be a problem.\n\nAlso the atom smasher engineers at Frigidaire have the control panel set to where you only see the oven set temp on the display when you are baking in the timer mode. You can push a button to see how much time is left but it disappears in a few seconds. Here is a hint Frigidaire... You set the temp for 350...it is now no longer needed information. Time is needed information when baking and also it changes unlike the set oven temp. So needless to say you'll have your timer on the countertop as usual.\n\nNow that I own this and have been using it for a while I now know I would have bought something different. All of the metal on this stove is very thin and as cheap as all of the gas valves are I would bet this will have a 5 - 10 year life unlike the 25 year stove it replaced.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2987, "id": 87067, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2988, "id": 335529, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 392, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "Read so many before buying this unit. However the description or manuals were not clear on the below three, which was important to me and thought this had based on reviews. My bad too so have given a 4 star and nothing wrong with the product.\n*** There is no sensor to auto switch on the unit**\n** This does not have the oil drip tray**\n** Also my unit does not have the suction as shown in video. Not even in Fan speed of 4 which is the max. Video shows the box being glued up to the unit even at fan speed of 1***\nAtleast mine has turned on so far.\n\nOrder and shipping.\nNo hassels and Got this pretty fast way ahead of what shipping said.\nInstallation\nUnit is heavy so you need 2 people to fit it.\nEasy instructions and the installers fitted it in couple of hours hooked to tubes and opened the ceiling and were done.\n(Not the handy man but professional installers).\nOperation\nThe timer and fan switch on was easy.\nThe auto timer off for fan is also a nice feature.\nThe light is nicely illuminating and was sufficient for us. Not like many users have complained.\nThis model the fan does not switch on automatically nor a oil drip tray.\nThe cleaning of filters are a jiffy.\nThe noise at F1 to F2 are not a botheration but F3 and F4 are noticeable. Well you want some suction right....\n\nIndian cooking\nFor Indian cooking the masala smell is removed to a great extent. It also sucks all the smoke and vapor.\nDeep frying leaves some smell inside the house\n\nTo test how good the unit is When we cook we go to the side of the house where the chimey goes to the roof top (not side). If the wind is blwoing the direction we can smeel it for a good 50 to 100 ft. Very powerful Indian masala smell is taken out and sent out. That is how noticeable it is. My neighbours have stopped by to say and ask what is cooking. So you may not want to take the pipes to the side if you are Indian or chinese cooking where the spices and condiments smell a lot and you are better off if taken to the ceiling.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2989, "id": 475407, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 414, "len_tokens": 487, "text": "As other reviewers have mentioned, this refrigerator is riddled with problems. For starters, the ice maker:\n\nICE MAKER ISSUES:\nThe ice maker takes up a lot of space but I knew that when I bought it and was okay with that. What I was not okay with was the ice maker randomly stopping when the mechanical controls in the maker got ice on them. Seems ridiculous but sadly true. There's a little arm that controls when the unit makes ice cubes--not sure if it's some sort of sensor or what but whatever it is, it gets some frost or something on it and freezes in place which tells the ice maker it doesn't need to make cubes. So, instead of replacing the ice cubes you use, it just stays off until you realize it's out of ice cubes. By then you have to open it up, play around with the little arm to unfreeze it, and several hours later after 5 or 6 cycles of it making cubes, it's ready to go again. This happens at least once per month.\n\nRANDOM FROST ISSUE:\nCame home one day, opened the freezer to get food out to make for dinner and noticed all of the boxes and bags of food were completely covered in frost. Not just a thin layer either... a pretty decent amount of it actually. Also, the freezer light wouldn't come on. Completely frosted over. The power dd NOT go out in the home that day and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. We still haven't figured out what it was and just the other day, the freezer light randomly started working again. We think it MIGHT have been related to the ice maker problems. Perhaps some sort of water leak that drained into the freezer and caused all of that frost? Who knows.\n\nWe're not happy with this fridge. Luckily, we bought this as part of an appliance package deal from Home Depot during one of their big 4th of July sales so we only paid about $1,100 for it. Still unacceptable but it could be worse. After doing a bunch of research after we started having these problems, we noticed others were having similar problems. In the future, we're going to stick to the Samsung fridges which we've heard are the best. In this case, we really just wanted everything to match (which it does) but I'm not going to sacrifice quality in the future just to have matching appliances.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2990, "id": 88171, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2991, "id": 88291, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 372, "len_tokens": 453, "text": "We have 24 foot of solid dryer vent pipe ending in 3 right-angles before going through the floor into the flexible dryer-vent hose coming from the dryer.  I can't get behind the dryer without moving both the washer and dryer and they are HEAVY.  So being lazy I decided to clean the vent from the outside of the house inward.  I didn't use a vacuum cleaner or a blower or suction of any kind.  I did tighten each section of tubing with pliers and taped them.  I threaded all 24 foot of tubing with the brush on the end into the outside vent and then backed it out.  I got a good amount of lint clods out.  Then I turned on the dryer to blow everything out.  I got no air coming out at all.  My fear had come true, I had forced gobs of lint into the right-angles at the end of the run.  I still didn't want to move that washer and dryer so I figured I'd try one other thing, use the clodbuster attachment.  Now I'm really getting lazy so I tightened each tubing section by hand (no pliers) and didn't use tape.  I pushed all 24 foot of tubing into the vent until I hit some resistance and then turned the tubing by hand (too lazy to hook the drill up).  Then I pulled it all out and there wasn't any lint at all that came out. So now I'm resigned to having to move the washer and dryer, but before I do I figured I might as well turn the dryer on and see what happens.  Lots of lint clods blew out and kept coming out for about 20 seconds.  I've attached pictures of it.  I'm really happy with this product and if it worked for me with all the shortcuts I took it will probably work great for you.  As a point of reference we built this house five years ago and this is the first time I ever cleaned the vent.  A load of ten bath towels used to take 45 minutes to dry, lately it's been taking 3 to 4 hours, so I knew I couldn't put cleaning the pipe off any longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2992, "id": 137253, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 401, "len_tokens": 465, "text": "I ordered this to replace the cheap knobs on my GE Profile stove. I concor with all the reviews that say the GE knobs are mostly cheap, the ones that came with my stove are cheap plastic and fell apart which is a huge problem as they render the stove partly useless, and make me unsure if the various gas ranges are on or off (nerve-racking).\n\nI ordered five of these to replace all knobs, received them within one day (almost less than 15 hours!), so for delivery, I am very pleased. One of the items was a little dirty, but a little water cleaned it right up. I was a little worried about it fitting, but I believe that this will fit nearly any GE stove, just a few adjustments might be necessary to make it work.\n\nFirst, as shown in picture 2, some of the stoves have two semi circular (removable) metallic pieces that hold the old knobs, the pieces fit over the extrusion for the knobs and render it larger than the semi-circular holes on the back of these knobs, which makes it seems incompatible at first, but simply removing one of the semi circular pieces will allow this to slide right in.\n\nSecond, some ranges have the semi circular extrusions pointing upward or downward, i.e., the flat side of the knob is on the top or bottom. These come in a naturally bottom position, so when you place it on the stove, the red arrow points at on rather than off. This is a simple fix, simply remove the screws on the back of the knob, turn the plate around and viola, the red arrow points to off. You can see both positions in picture 3.\n\nAfter figuring these two points out, I was able to painlessly and quickly install these to have a nice clean knob system. Each knob is a little over $12, which is a little on the expensive side, but they look great on a stainless steel range and I'm very pleased with them. I am also have to have a quick way to give my stove a little refresher and well as a good option should these break. I will update again about durability after I have had them for longer. Hope this helps anyone installing this, if you need more instructions, just let me know and I'll add a video.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2993, "id": 52765, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 397, "len_tokens": 484, "text": "The people I work for are ice freaks. From the time they hired me, they began hounding me to arrange for them to be able to make ice in the office, because at that time they were they forced to get their fix by making periodic visits to the cafe on the next block to buy large beverages loaded with ice.\n\nAt first, because of our office set-up, it just wasn't possible, but in the winter of 2009 we moved to new offices on campus, and I was able to select a refrigerator with an ice maker for the pantry at our new space. Unfortunately, the ice-making capacity of the refrigerator was not sufficient to meet the demand, and eventually we decided to supplement it with an under-counter dedicated ice maker. The SPT IM-150US seemed as though it would meet our needs. We purchased this in July 2010, and it worked very well for us initially. It began making ice quickly, in sufficient quantities to keep the cold-beverage-lovers happy throughout the day and to provide the hot-yoga-goers with ice for their multiple Camelbaks for after-work classes.\n\nHowever, after just about a year of service (around the time the warranty ran out - what are the odds?) the unit developed serious frosting issues, and leaks. There's a water leak somewhere in the ice-making mechanism that was making icebergs of the cubes that landed in one corner of the bin. For a while we were able to contain this problem by placing a plastic cup under the leak to catch the dripping, but lately the rate of the leak has accelerated to the point where the cup overflows if we don't empty it daily.\n\nGiven that the ice maker cost ~$350, it doesn't make a lot of financial sense to get the thing repaired, so we're looking at replacing it after owning it for all of 19 months. I'm writing this review as I mull over whether to just get another SPT 150US (knowing that this will be, for all intents and purposes, a \"throwaway\" appliance) or shopping around for something that's higher-quality and will meet our needs form-factor-wise. Honestly, I don't feel that this ice maker has been a good value overall. I would only recommend it for someone who knows they're not going to be using it for a long time and who has money to waste.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2994, "id": 69883, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 376, "len_tokens": 433, "text": "I purchased this beverage cooler with doubts in the begining, but once I received it I was pleased with how this unit was well protected. For those of you stating this unit will not cool lower then 39 degrees, I hate to inform you, but it actually will. I say this because I have manually adjusted the thermostat down to 33 degrees, I can go lower but I rather drink my beer then chew it. I will explain this process shortly, but to give you another example I called the support line regarding this cooler and just as I expected I was also informed it would not cool lower then 39 degrees. From previous post that I have read I saw a number of people stating it is adjustable...YES... it can be adjusted, and just in case you missed these posts, you have mine to read. This is how. 1st once you receive this unit please allow at least 12 hrs for it to run within the middle setting. After the 12 hrs locate a small flat head screwdriver and place it under the turn dial of the thermostat. With just a little force pull the knob with the help of the screwdriver and this dial should pull off completely. 2nd notice the small Phillips screw to the left of this dial, this is what you will be adjusting until you reach your desired temp. To give you an example, I set mine to start cooling when it reaches 39 degrees and to stop cooling at 33.5 degrees.  (It can be done, just patience Daniel son)...The small Phillips screw will need to be turned clock wise a few rotations. Its best to turn 1 full rotation and allow the beverage cooler time to set the new adjustment. Continue this process until you have your desired temp, than place the turn dial back on and this is what you will be using to tweak your adjustments from now on. I hope this helps and the reason I didn't rate this as a 5 is because the wire racks are crap! Go to a glass shop and have your shelf's cut. Besides its a classier look. The blue light reflects nice with the glass.\nThanks and Cheers!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2995, "id": 402613, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 368, "len_tokens": 422, "text": "Being a single parent and on a budget, going to the local laundromat to wash clothes was not cost efficient at all. Spending over ten dollars to wash and dry, a few loads of colthes and blankets was quickly adding up! Not to mention finding the time to get to there.\n\nI bought this unit not looking for a miracle, but a solution to my problem... washing the clothing that my family of four had and trying to save money. This product thus far is doing just that!\n\nI wash at least three loads of clothes ( jeans, shirts, socks, delicates, shorts and dresses) and small basic house goods ( towels, sheets, pillow cases, small throw blankets) twice a week. Using a bucket I fill my washer; always making sure to check my load size and the appropriate fill line in the machine. I use less liquid detergent than in a full sized washer and am sure not to use hot water. Depending on the load, I set it to wash for a minimum of 9 minutes to the full 15 minutes. I drain all the water out at the end of the cycle, and then fill the unit with fresh water to rinse for at least 5 minutes. * Always be sure to set the unit back to 'Normal ' or 'Soft' after you finish drain and before you start refilling with fresh water!!! If not the unit will spray water out from the drain hose when you start the machine!\n\nOne of the best aspects of the unit is the spinner! I usually only place a few items in at a time and spin for 2 minutes. The full 5 minutes is great for heavy items such as jeans or towels. Be sure they are leveled correctly, so that the unit does not start becoming off balance ( you will hear the sound difference when this occurs). When the items come out of the spinner they are almost completely dry. This makes hang drying easier or in my case placing them into my small Panda dryer a quick dry!!!\n\nI love my portable washer! It hopefully will last for some time to come, with proper use and care.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2996, "id": 551402, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 385, "len_tokens": 437, "text": "This product failed on me after three years and probably one year of operation. I called EdgeStar support and described the clicking sound when the thermostat was turned on but compressor would no longer run. The technical support team said this was due to the compressor relay based on my description. When I was attempting to install the part, I saw that the white wire to the compressor relay had shorted and burnt up, which I was told should never happen. I sent a picture to support and was told the wire would have to be replaced and all sales are final on replacement parts. Given my predicament, I was offered a 10% discount on a replacement unit, which I thought was fair at the time given the discount more or less offset the cost of the compressor relay. Unfortunately, the discount could only be redeemed directly through EdgeStar. After calling several times and waiting on hold for quite a while, I was finally able to get through to process my replacement kegerator order. I specifically asked if there would be any tax or shipping charges since Amazon and the other distributors do not charge these fees on this product and was told there would not be. Lo and behold my credit card was charged $23 in tax. Since I now paid more than going through Amazon (i.e. I have an Amazon Store card) and I was told that there would not be tax, I called back for a refund. They initially told me that they would gladly refund me the tax and it would be 7-10 business days. I called back after three weeks and was told they must not have entered the refund but they would make sure it would be processed this time. Another 2-3 weeks have passed and I still haven't received the credit. I have had to resort to disputing the tax portion of my charge with my credit card company since this was not the total I verbally agreed to on the phone. Don't waste your time dealing with EdgeStar. At this point, I question their ethics since it seems they are intentionally telling me one thing and doing the opposite. Also, the technical support department should be walking through more diagnostics and troubleshooting before prescribing nonrefundable replacement parts.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2997, "id": 478940, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 355, "len_tokens": 449, "text": "This unit uses the same buttons as the unit below.\n\n purchased this unit from a local store about four years ago when I purchased a Thermador duel fuel stove.  The finish was alright, but the engineering was very poor.  Although it is not the top of the line hood, for 700.00, I expect it to work properly.  Within the first year, some of the buttons, there are four, started to pop off when I turned it up or down.  The fan speed and lights are controlled by metal (Chrome, not stainless steel) push buttons.  Unfortunately, the push button subassembly (plastic prongs) that receive the metal buttons are a different shape than the inside of the buttons.  So essentially, and quite literally, you have a square peg going into a round hole.  Over time, they loosen and no longer grip the buttons.  I know this, because I kept the subassembly, after I had the appliance repairman, put in a new assembly for close to 300.00.  Now, after another two years, the second unit is failing.  Another poor design element is the lights.  To replace them, you need to use a star key bit and hope that you do not loose the screws as you are taking them out of what feels like flimsy sheet metal.  So, you always need a tool to change the lights.  I have fat fingers and fitting the bulb into the socket feels like playing a game of operation.  I do not plan to throw good money after bad again.  I failed to mention that when this happened the first time, just out of the one year warranty, Thermador offered to sell me the replacement part at a 10% discount.  A very generous offer indeed.  Did I mention the stove (4500.00),  I had a circuit board go out on it the first six months.  The repair was 600.00, but the factory warranty covered it.  I also had a burner issue that required a repair the first month and have had a couple other small issues.  It cooks fine and looks great, but I expect more for an appliance that costs this much.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 2998, "id": 181211, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 351, "len_tokens": 432, "text": "UPDATE: I ordered the newer 10lb capacity one and the motor is so strong, it's tearing up all my clothes. Thinking of returning it and getting the order small one again.\n\nUPDATE: after 4yrs of constant use, this guy just died on me. I used it once/twice a week. Usually 3 loads per use. It started smoking from the back of the machine so I immediately unplugged it. I was washing a very heavy terry cloth bath robe at the time and I think when I drained the water in the tub, the motor might have gotten wet from underneath. That's just my guess. I loved this thing and it served me well. RIP Panda.\n\nI've had this thing for a year and a half now. I use it every week to wash all my clothes. When not in use, I stow it away next to my vanity. I live in NYC in a tiny apt in a 3rd floor walk up. Schlepping everything to the laundromat and waiting around sucks. I bought this with the centrifugal clothes spinner by \"The Laundry Alternative\". I set both up in my tub once a week and wash all my clothes. This washer successfully washes an average of 8 garments at a time. I believe the directions recommend a 15min wash cycle, draining the tub, refilling it with clean water and then another 15 min rinse cycle. I do two initial wash cycles (a total of 30mins) then drain and refill, then one rinse cycle. It comes with a hose that you're supposed to attach to a sink to fill the tub with, but I found that to be too messy, so I put the washer in my tub and fill it with a detachable shower head massager. Life changer! Money saver! Now I just visit the laundromat every other week and can afford to drop off just my sheets and towels and pay to have them done for me! Minus one star because the drain hose develops some sort of mold/mildew grossness that I have to soak out with bleach every few months.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 2999, "id": 458383, "interval": [400, 500], "len_words": 337, "len_tokens": 484, "text": "The GE Profile Stainless Refrigerator looks and works great, although buyers who have never before owned a full side-by-side should be aware of issues inherent in the design.\n\nFirst, the good:  the door shelves are deep and adjustable, so you can make sure you have at least one area where liter bottles of soda or wine bottles with corks sticking up fit. Both the meat/cheese and the vegetable/fruit drawers are ample size, with the lower Turbo Cool drawer having less depth but still offering additional space.  The tempered glass shelves are sturdy and easily removed for cleaning and height adjustment.  I've had an incredibly full refrigerator, with dishes stacked on top of each other, without any problem with the weight on the glass.  Separate temperature adjustments for the freezer and refrigerator are accurate.\n\nThe freezer has some rubber-coated wire shelves and pull-out drawers.  The water dispenser/ice maker feeds through the top of the freezer, so the top shelf has limited room.\n\nThe drawbacks?  Well, a side-by-side has a narrow freezer, which means you cannot fit, say, frozen pizza boxes inside unless you remove a shelf and stick it on its side.  The same is true for the refrigerator side -- anything wide is not going to fit.\n\nOn a different note, the dispensed water is never cold, even though it technically feeds up through the freezer door; I guess this means that the freezer itself is extremely well-insulated.  Still, I'd like cooler water.  Of course, the cube and crushed ice dispensers can cool the glass of water instantly.\n\nThe brushed steel exterior shows fingerprints, although not as readily as a mirrored finish will.  I recommend getting&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Magic-Complete-Stainless-Steel-Cleaner-14-Ounce-Pack-of-6/dp/B001FA1O8Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Magic Complete Stainless Steel Cleaner, 14-Ounce (Pack of 6)</a>&nbsp;or something similar to clean the surface.\n\nIf you are in love with a complete side-by-side design, this refrigerator is a great choice.  If you want additional freezer width but still want side-by-side refrigerator doors, check out French door models with a lower, pull-out freezer.\n\n-- Debbie Lee Wesselmann", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3000, "id": 87423, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3001, "id": 122053, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 405, "len_tokens": 504, "text": "We actually intended to purchase the KUDE50FXSS because it is cheaper but our 9.5 yr old Fisher Paykel died at Thanksgiving and, by Monday, I was anxious to get a replacement installed. The appliance store was out of the KUDE50FXSS because it is such a popular model, but they had a floor model of the KUDE70FXSS on sale for less than the one we wanted, so I took it. I didn't really want the very top (third) rack that one reviewer raved about and after about three uses, we removed it. The top (second rack) has two positions. In the 'down' position, it interferred with some of our dishes in the bottom rack, and in the 'up' position it interferred with the very top rack. Fortunately the very top rack is very easy to remove.\n\nThis DW has more features than we need and I don't like heated dry because it is so hot. Frankly, the final rinse water is hot enough that dishes dry on their own in the dishwasher. I have tried washing glassware along with a couple of greasy microwave bacon cookers and have tried washing some really dirty pots (in pot scrubber mode) along with glassware, and everything came out very clean both times. The filter needs to be rinsed infrequently and all the rack adjustment options make it really easy to load. Some customers may like all of the wash options and those who don't can just ignore them. For the majority of people, I suspect that the KUDE50FXSS would be just fine.\n\nThere are some plastic parts that are too delicate. We had to order replacements for several of them because numbskulls had broken them while playing with the unit at the appliance store. Also, the utensil rack has several plastic inserts with slots designed to keep your flatware separated so it won't \"spoon\". Our flatware doesn't fit in the slots so we removed them also. We have washed with cascade powder and Finish Powerballs. Both seem to work well and we mostly use the powerballs now. We also use JetDry in the dispenser.\n.\nThis unit is so quiet, you actually have to listen very carefully to detect that it is on. The loudest sound is heard through the disposal when it empties. We highly recommend this unit, or the next one or two down, which most customers will likely find just as acceptable at a lower price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3002, "id": 281361, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 420, "len_tokens": 522, "text": "This is a great product!  Did the job very easily and no problems.\n\nThe good:\n- price - at $21, it's totally worth it, even if you only use it once.\n- soft bristles so it's pretty much impossible to damage any part of the ductwork.\n- rods are very flexible so can bend around corners\n- 12' is long enough for most ducts\n\nThe bad:\n- nothing\n\nConsiderations:\n- if you need more than 12', you have to buy another 12'.  I wish they would sell extensions in 6' kits, or maybe an 18' brush kit option.\n- This is not \"industrial-grade\" so you have to be a little careful when using it.  This is NOT a complaint - a heavy-duty version would cost $100 or more, and I'm happy to only pay $21 and get what I need.\n- you have to turn it ONLY CLOCKWISE.  It's designed for use in a drill while spinning in the standard right-turning, clockwise direction.  If you turn it backwards, it will unscrew the rod sections and the brush will be stuck in the duct.\n- use a cordless drill with a clutch and set the clutch low.  Then if you encounter resistance, you won't risk breaking the rods or brush.  It should turn very easily if you're doing it right.\n- clean a 2' section of duct at a time.  Start with one section of rod hooked to the drill, run it, pull the brush out, and let all the loose lint blow out of the pipe.  Then screw on one more section of rod on and repeat until you have reached the end of the duct.  As it scrapes lint off the duct walls, it will build up in front of the brush, which is why you have to keep pulling it out and feeding it back in.  This is not a design flaw, just the nature of the beast.\n- you can work this by hand, but it won't get as clean, and you will need to use more of a in/out motion while turning slowly clockwise.\n- I have seen several negative reviews saying things came off stuck in the duct or it wouldn't work by hand.  I am pretty convinced that all of these people are clearly not thinking nor reading instructions before use, or have improper expectations of how such a device should perform.  An indestructible rod/brush would end up tearing the duct loose, which would be far worse than buying a new $20 brush kit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3003, "id": 211144, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 414, "len_tokens": 506, "text": "I've lived in a few apartments without laundry hookups before, and tried not to let my weekly laundromat trips bother me as I didn't see any alternative. Many times, the apartments themselves (for the price, location, or other perks alone) were worthwhile to me and I didn't think it a big deal to head to a laundromat to wash clothes. I still don't necessarily hate those trips, but they do get exhausting, expensive, and are never something I look forward to doing. It takes hours, a lot of physical effort to carry laundry down stairs and to my car... let alone, when I lived in a city, I'd have to carry laundry baskets down busy, bustling blocks sans a car, and pay around $20 a trip.\n\nThis machine, then, pays for itself in just a few months' time for me. It takes much smaller loads than the commercial-sized units in laundromats, so that's a change I had to get used to. I can wash maybe 10 t-shirts at a time, or 5 t-shirts and a couple of pairs of pants. To me, this isn't a big deal because the fact that this is in my house makes it easy for me to do multiple loads a week.\n\nThe washer section has a higher capacity than the dryer section, as is easy to see in the photos. I find that doing very small loads in the dryer does help them dry more thoroughly, but you can rest assured that you will likely never have a bone dry piece of laundry out of this spin dryer. It gets pretty close to dry, and if you hang it out (outside or on a dryer rack) for a couple of hours, you're good to go.\n\nSome things it washes better than others. I've had no problem with intimates, light-weight shirts, cotton pants, etc. But it does have some issues with heavy sweaters, jeans, and towels. Nothing too bad, just that it doesn't fit very many at once and that they can come out of the dryer rather stiff sometimes.\n\nThis thing, overall, has been such a lifesaver to me. At the price, I can't see rating it anything less than five stars. The instructions are clear. It requires maybe five minutes more \"work\" out of a person doing laundry than a regular machine, but I can't tell you how nice it is to be able to do laundry at home in a home I couldn't have before Panda.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3004, "id": 51530, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 452, "len_tokens": 542, "text": "I bought this drier to go with my compact Haier 23E washer. I am mostly happy with it, although the product description is somewhat misleading.\n\n1) Venting. On pictures, it looks like this dryer needs no venting. It claims you can place it anywhere. It has three (!) lint filters, so lint should not be a problem. But the user manual says that this dryer *must* be vented outside or else drying performance will suffer. I found this to be true. I made myself a window vent kit & the dryer performance increased dramatically. This dryer does not move a lot of air, so the moist air expelled from it will stick around the dryer, only to be sucked back in, leading to long drying times (and according to the user manual, voiding your warranty). Note that ducting cannot exceed 6ft. The dryer ships with a standard 4\" duct adapter. Once vented outside, this dryer does an excellent job. It dries most things in 90 minutes or less. Light fabrics seem to dry in 45 minutes. Vented indoors, I was about to return this thing. You might be able to vent it indoors if you place it in an area where there is enough air movement - but this dryer is meant for small spaces where it chokes on its own moisture if not vented outdoors.\n\n2) Capacity. This dryer has a fairly low capacity. You can dry one queen sized sheet and pillowcases, or two bath towels along with some socks/underwear. If you put too much stuff in the dryer, it will not dry things AT ALL. This is because the heat is coming from a little vent in the front the dryer which will get blocked if the dryer is too full. I once attempted to dry a queen sized sheet and duvet at once and thought the dryer was broken since after one hour, the sheets were still soaking vet and cold to the touch. I then removed the duvet and dried the sheet by itself and it was done in 45 minutes.\n\n3) Watch your fingers. This dryer can burn your fingers. The heating element is located inconspicuously in the front, just to the lower left of the opening. The dryer normally runs a cool down cycle, but if you interrupt the dry cycle, do not touch the front inside wall of the dryer near the vent. It gets very hot. This dryer is different in that the heating element is in the front and the exhaust in the back.\n\nOverall, I am very happy I don't need to go to the laundromat. This dryer does a great job if you don't overload it and vent it outside.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3005, "id": 70887, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 431, "len_tokens": 536, "text": "After reading so many negative reviews about this dishwasher, I had to double check mine to make sure they were talking about the same dishwasher.  I am not sure what the problem is.\n\nFirst of all, the dishwasher's appearance is beautiful and matches my other stainless appliances very well.  It cleans very well, uses less water and detergent, and my dishes come out spotless!!!\n\nSome negative reviews had mentioned that the dishes came out wet since there is no heating element.  My dishes come out \"piping\" hot and dry just as if there is a heating element in the bottom of the dishwasher, but without the worry of melting plastic items that might fall through the racks.\n\nThis dishwasher is so quiet, I hardly notice that it is running.  I only notice it when I first turn it on when the water is running, even then it is very silent.\n\nThis dishwasher is full of options yet very simple to operate. I am so pleased with this dishwasher, I would definitely buy it again and recommend it to anybody looking for a good deal.\n\nUPDATE 5/26/2010:\nI have used this dishwasher now for a few months and it is still working for us great!! My family runs at least one load per day and the dishes still come out spotless.  I have noticed that when it runs out of rinse aid, that the dishes tend to come out spotty.  RECOMMENDATION:  Keep your rinse aid topped off!!!  There is a handy sensor\non the display that lets you know when it is running low.\n\nA previous reviewer said that the built in garbage disposal is misleading since you have a lesser chance of getting clean dishes if you leave food on them.  Wrong.  There is also a built-in soil sensor that detects this and adjusts the wash accordingly.  Still loving this product from LG!!!\n\nUPDATE 11/4/2012:\nNow it broke.  I am getting an E0 error, which I looked up.  LG says it is a clogged or kinked hose, and I also read that it could be a bad pump.  I checked the hose and seems to be fine, so I will be having a technician come out to fix it.  Now that its out of warranty, this should be fun.\n\nUPDATE 11/6/2012\nThe service technician just finished, and my final bill came to $230.  Turns out it was a bad pump.  The service guy said to use \"Dishwasher Magic\" once per month to help prevent this from happening again.  He said that it may have happened from hardwater deposits or grease build-up.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3006, "id": 501352, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 482, "len_tokens": 554, "text": "After viewing an endless number of Island Range Hoods, we decided to go with this one after my wife contacted the company that distributes them. They were very helpful and courteous, and were able to answer questions to our satisfaction. In the meantime, the price on Amazon dropped $90 and with free shipping, it was a sale.\n The installation was not complicated, and the directions were easy to follow. I reinforced between the ceiling joists with angle iron which supported plywood that I laminated together to a thickness of almost 3\". I mounted the range hood supports with 3\" lag bolts. I didn't use the Philips head screws that came with the hood. I have trust issues when it comes to suspending 80+ pounds of sheet metal and motor over my head.\n The angle iron framework that the hood hangs from is not heavy duty, but appears it will do the job. The screws and nuts (the nuts are brass and affixed to the angle iron) are of poor quality and easily stripped. Some of the nuts would turn in place and there was no way to hold them so you could tighten them. Do yourself a favor, get some good stainless fasteners at the local hardware store with locknuts. Grind or pull out the brass nuts that are there so you won't have to work around them. I also ended up drilling holes in different locations on the hood where the same brass nuts are used and just bolted through. The results are a good rigid mount.\n The other issue I faced was I had to shorten the angle iron mounts so I could get the range hood up high enough to avoid hitting my head. The hood ended up sitting 31\" above the stove top, and I moved it back about 3\" from dead center over the stove. We also went for a 42\" wide range hood over our 30\" cook top. I ended up cutting the upper stainless steel square cover that goes up against the ceiling. The lower cover has to be able to be lifted up to access the mounting screws that hang the hood and the motor as well. Because I had shortened the angle iron mounts in order to get the hood higher off the stove, the cover needed to be shortened. We have 8 foot ceilings.\n We love the range hood! I have no idea if it sucks at the advertised rate, but on high, it is quiet and nothing escapes the range top. The LED lights are more for a night light than actual working lights. There are no interior baffles to clean: the smoke and steam are sucked through the visible slots on the underside. The stainless doors drop down and you wipe off what ever residue is there. The range hood has been installed about 2 months, so far, so good!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3007, "id": 87775, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3008, "id": 275841, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 423, "len_tokens": 564, "text": "Okay, I have a ULINE BI2015S undercounter ice maker. I am typing this for the poor, hapless soul that I was and who might be me out there. So. Your icemaker stopped working?  Got it.  Not sure why?  Well, neither is any ULINE technician. So, I am going to help you.  First, this piece MUST BE working properly for your icemaker to successfully call for water. Your icemaker calls for water when the icemaker assembly plastic prongs (inside the icemaker) are in the 10 o'clock position!  The MOST COMMON reason your ULINE icemaker is not calling water is because of this little solenoid. If your icemaker cycles and at the 10 o'clock position, pauses, does NOT call water and then proceeds to the 12 o'clock position and gets stuck...you probably have a bad solenoid.  You may also have a bad icemaker assembly, but it's cheaper and easier to replace the solenoid first, if you aren't good with a voltage meter. However, if you, or someone who owes you a favor, can test your solenoid with a voltage meter, then you will know for sure. Now, this is VERY important....you will not get any voltage in that brown return wire or in the solenoid, EXCEPT when it is calling for water, at the 10 o'clock position. So if you are looking for voltage when it's stuck at the 12 o'clock position, you won't find any. SOOO, you will need to take off that little white plastic piece of your icemaker assembly, ever so carefully use a screwdriver or something to move the gears so that the icemaker assembly white prongs move counterclockwise (LEFT) to the 9 o'clock position. Oh, do this with the machine off and not plugged in...just in case. Then turn it back on...be ready with your voltage meter.....and you should see the surge of voltage within 60 seconds or less and if you don't and it has already reached the 12 o'clock position, then your solenoid is likely your problem. Whew. I hope that helps someone somewhere and it makes any sense. It took us four repairman who didn't help, and me and my brother on the internet and one new icemaker assembly (not actually needed, but glad we did it since the old one was peeling a bit inside that you couldn't see) and about 40 hours on the internet and a lot of guesswork before we finally pieced everything together to figure out how it worked.  Anyway, I have ice now!!!!! The solenoid replacement itself takes about 15 minutes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3009, "id": 468687, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 345, "len_tokens": 593, "text": "This is Samsung's new line of high-end front-loading laundry machine. Other than the new&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Electrolux-EWFLS70JIW-27-5-1-cu-Ft-Front-Load-Washer-Island-White/dp/B003T4HMWS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Electrolux EWFLS70JIW 27 5.1 cu. Ft. Front-Load Washer - Island White</a>, it has the largest capacity among consumer-oriented washers. Yet, its external dimension is similar to other front-loaders, thus fitting easily into standard laundry room space.\n\nI bought this model to replace a 7-year-old&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-WFW9400SZ-27-Front-Load-Washer-with-4-0-cu-ft-Capacity-White-Sapphire-Blue/dp/B00132MLCO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool : WFW9400SZ 27 Front Load Washer with 4.0 cu. ft. Capacity White/Sapphire Blue</a>, which went kaput when the plastic ring holding the front side of the steel drum in place decayed away under normal usage. Understandably, I chose not to go with Whirlpool again, since many of the Duet's plastic parts have not lasted the 10-15 years I expected from a major appliance. I am not sure how well this Samsung will compare, but I feel it is worth a try even at a relatively high price because Consumer Reports likes this model.\n\nFunctionally, it is almost identical to the Duet. The major exceptions are:\n1. A substantially larger capacity;\n2. The ability to sense the load and adjust water usage automatically;\n3. The availability of steam wash.\nThe first two features are very nice. The last one is questionable, as I consider high temperature a killer to most fabric, but steam seems the new trend in washers.\n\nI bought it from BestBuy. The installers rushed through the job and failed to apply Teflon tape when connecting the hose, leading to a leak that ruined the wall, the hard-wood floor and the basement ceiling tiles. I should have supervised the installation personally. Nowadays, it is unwise to assume professionalism in people one does not know well.\n\nThe follow-up with BestBuy's customer service has been hellish. The corporate consumer relation people are nice and polite, but every time they try to hand me off to the local installation department I get a total disconnect, literally, as in being hanged up on. So, after more than a dozen phone calls and several hours on the phone, resolution is still in the air.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3010, "id": 270315, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 451, "len_tokens": 543, "text": "The ice cubes are not completely hollow, but partially hollow, bullet shaped.  If you make about 1/4 to 1/3 gallon of ice (by volume) the basket where the ice is kept fills up and it stops making more ice until either you take some out, or until some of the cubes melt.  When the level of the ice in the holding basket gets low then the ice maker starts making ice again, automatically.\n\nThe ice in the basket is held in a small refrigerated area, but its not completely cold enough to keep the ice from melting, so the ice melts slowly if you don't use it.  The water from the melting ice  goes right back into the water reservoir to make new ice.  I guess if you never took the ice out of the basket, it would all melt back into the water, then be made into cubes, and melt, forever (wasting a lot of electricity along the way).  By the way, this does not run on batteries, and not on a 12 volt car outlet, it needs a 110 volt wall plug.\n\nBecause the freezer area where the ice is held in a basket is not terribly cold, the ice is a bit watery, and soft.  I happen to like softer ice, so thats not an issue for me, but it melts faster in a beverage that way too.\n\nThree issues to be aware of \n\n1. This thing is a bit loud in more ways than one.  Its a small refrigerator, with a small compressor, a fan, and ice making stuff inside it, and its not all that insulated.  When ice falls into the plastic basket, you hear this and it gets annoying.  We have a real ice maker in our upright freezer, and you hear the ice in there too, but its more insulated.\n2. The instructions say to NOT pour the water out of this.  But rather drain it out of a little drain in the bottom.  So, if you use it, and then want to put it away, your instinct tells you to pour the un-used water out, after all its not that big, so you want to just tip it over a sink, right?, but NO, they say NOT to do that (I don't know why) but to drain the water out the bottom, and that little drain is a bit of a pain.\n3. This thing has a lot of plastic, and smells like plastic, and at first, the ice smells and tastes like plastic.  You will need to make a few (they say a few, I say a weeks or more) of ice through this thing to get that smell mostly away.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3011, "id": 88511, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3012, "id": 61424, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 482, "len_tokens": 557, "text": "This range is wonderful. It is very sharp looking with a nice quality appliance feel to it. I have had mine for about 13 months and I do a lot of cooking on it. The oven works very well and cooks accurately. It is quite large inside compared to most of the 30\" ranges due to the narrow compartment walls. The lower warming oven is very useful and we use it constantly.\nThe cooktop burners have excellent range of heat and the flame adjusts very accurately on each of them.\nThe cooktop however is where the flaws come in. The burner caps are coated with a heat resistant coating which is charcoal gray in color. It matches the color of the grating. Foods/oil/fat will stain these surfaces. You can clean off the bulk, but it will leave behind a stain. If you use anything heavier than a plastic scrub pad, it will scratch and remove the coating. I have had two spill overs of boiling water that landed on first the left rear burner and later it happened on left front burner. Both of the burner caps lost large chunks of the coating when the water contacted them. The burners would still function just fine, but they look terrible. Burner caps on a range of this quality and cost should be able to withstand some hot water.\nAlso when you are cleaning the Stainless steel surfaces, don't use anything but soft cloth are a sponge. Good stainless steel is soft by nature and will easily scratch.\nWith the exception of the middle elongated burner, all of the burners produce a lot of very controllable heat. When you use the included griddle on the middle burner, it takes several minutes before it heats up properly.\nThe digital controls are very intuitive and easy to see and use. All of the range top components remove easily for cleaning.\nI have found a product called \"Sprayway Stainless Steel Cleaner and Polisher\" that works excellent for this range. (got it a Sam's Club)\n\nMy sister in-law bought one of these ranges and she has had the same problem with the burner caps chipping off.\nWhen it first happened to mine, it was still under warranty and GE promptly shipped a replacement. The second incident happened just a month after my warranty expired. I contacted GE and they are shipping me another one and they said they would have their product specialist contact me. Hopefully for a product this expensive, they will come up with a satisfactory re-designed fix.\n\nOverall I am very satisfied with the looks and performance of the range, but something needs to be done about the burner cap coating issue.\nIf it were not for the burner cap problem, I would have heartily given this range a 5 star rating.\nBe sure to find some of the Spraway Stainless cleaner, it works great.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3013, "id": 54890, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 436, "len_tokens": 542, "text": "Good points:\nMy previous disposal froze up, and couldn't be broken loose again.  When you turned it on, it just made a quiet humming noise.  This KitchenAid disposal makes the same amount of noise as that when it is working.  Very quiet.  They have a 1HP model that is supposed to be even quieter, but I think that is unnecessary.  Even when chewing on two cups of ice, the amount of noise is just slightly louder than the running water from the sink.  3/4 horsepower is plenty for a residential kitchen as well.  The only possible reason for going with the larger 1HP model is that it supposedly has an extra grinding stage (3 versus 2 in this one) that grinds up things smaller.  If you had a septic tank instead of sewer service, that might be worth considering.\n\nOtherwise, this monster is such an upgrade over the standard builder grade disposals and the common Insinkerator \"Badger\" models that you'll almost certainly be happy if you're coming from one of those.  The internals of this model are made by Insinkerator, and are the same as the Evolution Essential.  I bought it because the Kitchen Aid version wound up being cheaper.\n\nAlso nice is that the rubber guard that fills the drain hole is easily removable,  That is very nice, and not something that is common.  You can just pull it out, clean it without having to worry about sticking your hand down in the disposal, and put it back.\n\nBad points:\nThis unit does not include the pieces you need to connect it electrically.  So be sure to save the power cord off your old disposal.  The necessary parts (strain relief, wire nuts, power cable) can be had pretty easily/inexpensively at the hardware store of your choice, but be aware that you'll need to purchase them.\n\nThings to consider:\nThis disposal is physically big,  There is a good chance you'll wind up with less space under your sink than you had before, so keep that in mind.  The extra size may mean you have to cut some of your existing plumbing because it would be too long.  Big grinding chambers, noise insulation and 3/4 horsepower motors need a big package.\n\nThe dishwasher inlet hole is optional and sealed.  If you're using it, be sure you don't forget to punch out the plastic piece sealing it.  Its in the manual, but you might overlook it.\n\nThe install was pretty easy.  The sum total of my previous similar experience was replacing the drain in the kitchen sink (not all the plumbing, just the piece in the sink).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3014, "id": 244064, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 412, "len_tokens": 513, "text": "I'd say the quality of the board/case is average to good. About what you'd expect for the price. It's a pretty good find at this level of board. It is straight and not warped and the magnetic closure is cool. The wood is slightly rough in places, a little thin, and walnut is the trim elements -- points and front and back the case -- not the majority the case. Again, about the quality you'd expect for the price. Not wonderful, but above average for the price.\n\nThe pieces, dice, doubling cube, and dice cups, are below average. This is the second time I've bought a board at this level and both times I've ended up replacing elements. But with this board I will be replacing everything except, possibly, the doubling cube. This takes off a star.\n\nPieces: All 15 pieces, brown and white were present, so good. But basically it looks like they sliced up a wood dowl and stained it. Rudimentary. Rough. I changed these out immediately.\n\nDice: The dice included were 2 different sizes: 15 and 16mm. Both sizes are too large to fit into the storage area. And they are too large to use with the dice cups. They are so large in the cup that they don't jumble around and the pips remain stationary. I would be concerned about unfair rolls. So, I'll be changing them out for 14mm dice. This is the size of dice usually included with a board of this size (15\"). Also 15-16mm is a lot of dice to be rolling in between pieces. Using these I'd see lots of cocked die calls in my future, LOL.\n\nDice cups: the description said vinyl cups, but these are wood. Which would be nice, but they are small and don't have an interior lip to flip the dice as the dice come out. Again, I'd be concerned about unfair rolls with these, so I'll be playing with another set that I have.\n\nDoubling cube: the doubling cube is 16mm which is a nice size for a 15\" board. It's a nice creamy white and the numbers are clear and are in a font that looks hand drawn. Who knows, maybe they are hand drawn, LOL. I'll probably keep this part of the set.\n\nAll and all a nice, rugged but presentable board to use for messy pizza lunches at work, with some fun loud dice rolls. Lots of detractors, but still a good find.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3015, "id": 38904, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 441, "len_tokens": 584, "text": "I received this in March, in good condition.  As the earlier reviews note, the documentation is OK nowadays.  Set up worked fine, with the same problems with getting the tap in that others note.  But ultimately it was fine.\n\nThat said, after four weeks or so, and less than a half-keg (1/6 barrel), the CO2 tank mysteriously emptied entirely.  After re-filling, checking all connections, soapy water, etc.--it did the same thing.  So I sent an email through their cumbersome online system, which is designed to discourage support questions.\n\nI received a non-helpful message back, saying to check my connections.\n\nI was out of town for the next few months, so I just shut the system off.  A few weeks ago I read up on line, and checked the system by pressurizing it, then cutting off the tank pressure and closing the output valved to the keg.  Over a week or so, all the pressure in the regulator bled off.  So I concluded that the regulator was to blame.\n\nI sent another email through the cumbersome online system.  I received an email back, inviting me to call them.  So I did.  Their response?  \"It's over ninety days since you bought it, so you have to buy a new regulator.\"  When I pointed out that I had raised this problem within the ninety days, they demanded I prove it.  Of course, their online system doesn't copy you, so it's hard to prove.\n\nAnyway, maybe for the price it's worth taking a risk on the obviously bargain-basement parts they use.  Your mileage may vary.\n\nUpdate 8/8/2013:\n\nThis unit is now entirely broken.  It was unable to keep pressure, as noted above.  I replaced the regulator and tubing with third-party products, which fixed that problem.  However, the tap kept getting stuck in the closed position.  It just broke (admittedly, I was pushing pretty hard--but I shouldn't have to disassemble the unit to pour beer).  So pretty much nothing about this unit worked--though it did keep it cold enough, unlike some of the other reviews.\n\nBy the way, I have also discovered an unrelated problem with all these consumer units.  The tower itself is not cooled.  That means that the first glass of beer you pour after more than ten minutes or so is considerably warmer than the keg.  That means it is very foamy.  The next glass is fine, but this is apparently a well known problem.  Commercial and higher-end kegerators cool the tower up to the tap, avoiding this problem.  There are workarounds on the web (running a small fan to blow cold air into the tower, etc.), but they are pretty complicated.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3016, "id": 516688, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 431, "len_tokens": 531, "text": "Correct part for my FTQ387LWGX, works for the top or bottom fan the middle fan is the DG31-00005A.  The original part numbers taken from the side of the motors are SMCU386B (top or bottom), SMCU386A middle fan.\n\nNo real concerns with the replacement, 2 screws hold the cover (for the fans) on inside the stove oven, 7 (I think it was) to remove the panel on the back of the stove, 3 screws to remove the motor and bracket (after the back cover panel of the stove is removed), and 3 more to remove the motor from the bracket. No soldering, a pre-wired plug in clip is included as part of the replacement motor. Do note which way the color of the wires are attached to the connector, it didn't look directional. The fan would still work but it might spin the opposite direction if the wire connector was attached backwards which might be important in a 3 fan set up (push air or pull air).\n\nBefore removing the motor, the fan blade has to be taken off from inside the oven, as mentioned above 2 Phillips screws to remove the cover over the fan blades. I didn't note the size but 1/4\" drive socket set will do the trick to remove the nut on the end of the shaft holding the blade, Righty Tighty, Lefty loosey for this fan, hold the fan blade (glove advised) when loosening the holding nut, The blade is shaped to fit the shaft for orientation  and there is a spacer that goes between the motor and the blade, motor, spacer, blade, holding (cap style) nut, this might be specific to my model number.\nThere is also a little cup (kind of a washer that goes on the motor shaft, you will see it when you take stuff apart, just move it to the new motor.\n\nThis is not a difficult job and no reason to spend money for a service call. Do unplug the stove from AC before disassembly and if you have any doubt about which motor is making noise, remove the back cover panel on the stove, run the stove (bake mode seem to be the best) and listen to each motor by placing one end of long handled wooden spoon on the back of the fan motor and one end against your ear. The top fan was the problem in mine but the middle fan is a little noisy, looks like I'll be ordering a 5A motor soon.\n\nAll in all time is 20-30 minutes depending on access to the stove.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3017, "id": 332930, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 492, "len_tokens": 585, "text": "We have one of these in our offices, and it's generally a great little fridge. The size fit our under-counter space perfectly, and so far we're very happy with it. We've used other Avanti products before, and for the most part they've held up well to the needs of our small office.\n\nThe construction quality is good for the price - it's solid enough that it seems like it will last, but still small and light enough that one person can move it around if needs be. The temperature control works well and it gets more than cold enough (35 degrees) to keep food cold and fresh. The interior doesn't waste any space, and we like that there's no freezer section. Most fridges this size don't really have effective freezers anyway, so we appreciate being able to use 100% of the space for refrigeration. The glass shelves are also nice as they support irregular size items better than wire shelving. As an added bonus, it's very quiet in operation.\n\nThis unit replaces an older Sanyo product that had stopped working after many years. Although they are roughly the same physical size (the Sanyo is about half an inch taller, and about an inch less in depth), the Avanti seems to hold quite a bit more thanks to its lack of a freezer section and better shelving options. We also like that the rear of the Avanti is flat and easy to keep clean - made for a better fit than the Sanyo.\n\nA few small gripes:\n\n1. The design of the adjustable shelves requires that you be able to open the door well beyond 90 degrees to get the shelves out. In our case,  we have a tight fit against a side wall that limits the door opening, and we needed to remove the fridge in order to get the shelves out.\n\n2. It comes with a key lock for the door...not sure we have any use for this.\n\n3. The instructions advise against installing it in an enclosed space, as heat is dissipated from the back of the unit. Still, this is exactly how we need to use the product - would be nice if it vented to the front somehow, as a few competing products do.\n\n4. There seems to be quite a temperature difference between different areas of the fridge. Items stored at the top of the door section seem warmest, and items stored at the bottom rear are quite a bit colder.\n\n5. The unit comes encased in a plastic film that protects the finish. While it certainly did its job, it was quite an ordeal to peel this film off the fridge - it's easily a 30 minute task...about as far from \"frustration free packaging\" as you can get.\n\nOtherwise, this is definitely a reasonable product for the price, and if you need a compact fridge for your home or office, this one is worth a look.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3018, "id": 149351, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 464, "len_tokens": 551, "text": "I purchased this dishwasher 2 months ago.  I was so excited for this dishwasher.  I have always wanted a Bosch and no way will I ever get one again.  It doesn't wash dishes.  80% of the time the detergent tab is still in the detergent tray.  I rinse my dishes before putting them into a dishwasher but when I pull them out what little was left after I rinse is still there.  I put my holiday dishes in that had dust on them.  I pull them out after the load was done the dust is still on each plate and cup, but now baked in.  I called Bosch and they said they sold it to the appliance person I bought it from and to take it up with them.  The customer service person was no help and didn't want to help.  He did however inform me that it sounded like I didn't have strong water pressure in my home and that the dishwasher was never going to work for me.  The spray handles are not mechanical but move by water and  you need strong water pressure to move the handles.  Where is that written on any brochure for Bosch?????  That should be the first thing they tell you.  That was some of the worst customer service.  I am disgusted and never can I recommend a company that doesn't tell you what you need to know up front prior to purchasing and installation.  Do they care how much you had to pay someone to have it installed?\n\n11/03/2014 - UPDATE - I am changing my review to 4 stars from one star.  I had a plumber come out and fix my water pressure issues.  So now the dishwasher works great and I do love it.  Though, if anyone is in the shower I do not run dishes.  And while it is running no one is allowed to take a shower.  I am not going to go with 5 stars because Bosch does not advertise this (that you need to have strong water pressure for this dishwasher to work).  I didn't purchase this dishwasher from Amazon, I purchased it from Best Buy.  No one at Best Buy knew this was a issue.  I had originally looked at it at Sears (I had a coupon for Best Buy then it went on sale), and no one at Sears had told me that either.  This all being said, if you have good strong water pressure, this is the best dishwasher.  It is silent, and uses little water.  As said I really do love it.  If you have medium or low water pressure, I wouldn't go this route.  Find a dishwasher with spray handles that are mechanical or see if you can get your water pressure issues fixed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3019, "id": 185237, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 455, "len_tokens": 525, "text": "Yes this review is about the D110 compact dryer also known as the Avanti compact Dryer\n\nBut, FIRST OFF: I had the Haier Compact Washer and Dryer for a long time. Even though I went through 3 washers, the Haier dryer lasted through all those for about 3 years. For the price I was happy with that. NOW I had to replace it finally because the bearings must have went bad and started grinding.\n\nSO what do I see? Oh look it has a little window and for some reason the appeal of the dial on this Avanti Dryer drew me to it. I found it from a seller fulfilled by Amazon and bought ti for within a few dollars of what it would have costs to buy another Haier... After all I had no problems with the Haier dryer before but that could have been a fluke because I wore the washers out. And other people had problems with the Haier dryers so I wasn't brand loyal or anything. (A penny will kill a Haier compact washing machine left in a pocket)\n\nAnyway long story short. I really liked the appearance of this one this here Avanti compared to the Haier and as for the reviews who talks about the smell of hot plastic I didn't smell that at all.\n\nI did notice it was harder to mount and the vent coming out of the back is smaller then standard so my dryer exhaust hose was too big and had to be rigged up to work. To those of you not venting these dryers, your doing it wrong. This and the haier have to be vented.... Period.\n\nAnyway finally I get it up and turn it on awful squeak and grind loud as the one I just set o the curb the day before this one arrived. God why.. I wanted it to work so bad.. But it didn't and I read the reviews about taking the back off and finding belts and pulleys loose but you know what, I shouldn't have to do that or look for that in a new A BRAND NEW APPLIANCE. I boxed it up and sent it back and am about to buy another Haier if nothing else to hide the big hole in my appliance wall where I threw the old one away and now returning this one.. Again, I wanted it to work so bad. It is really attractive but it is cheap junk prettied up on the outside junk and plastic on the inside. ...\n\nI returned it with ease to Amazon and got a refund fast so now I can buy the next one.\n\nHappy with Amazon, BUT Sad about the fools gold product....", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3020, "id": 101944, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 470, "len_tokens": 562, "text": "After getting the Wonder Wash from The Laundry Alternative and dragging the wet clothes from my sink to my large front-loader to only spin the water out, I decided to try this small spin dryer to remove the excess water instead of using the big machine.  My first one did not work properly so I informed the Laundry Alternative and they sent me a new one.  This little machine is awesome!  It's true that it doesn't hold a huge amount of clothes (1 pair of jeans or a couple of shirts), but the benefits far outweigh that one shortcoming.  Since I try to use the WonderWash daily, I don't have a huge amount to put into this dryer anyways.  Several have explained how to use it so I won't repeat that, but I do have a couple of things I've noticed about the cost of using this dryer.\n\nThis machine is very lightweight and easy for me to lift to the counter to use.  I recently had back surgery so the weight of it was very important to me.  But my main reason for the purchase came down to the cost to use.  It takes 12 minutes to drain and spin clothes in my front loader, which spins at between 800-1000 rpm and also uses 1000 watts of electricity (yikes!).  This spin dryer goes 1600 rpm and uses only 83 watts of electricity.  I'm finding that enough water comes out during only 1 minute of spinning time for me to be happy with the results.  I do sometimes use 1 1/2 to 2 minutes for jeans, but so little extra water comes out during that extra time that it's not always necessary to run it that long.  I then hang things for the day to finish drying.  So it would take a very long time to use up the same amount of electricity that a front loader uses, even if you only use it (a regular washing machine) for the drain/spin cycle.\n\nBy using this spin dryer in combination with the WonderWash for most of my laundry, my electric bill dropped $10 per week.  I phrased it by the week since I had only used this combination for a couple of weeks during the last electric billing cycle, so I'm expecting for the total electric bill to be reduced by around $40 next month.  So even when purchased along with the WonderWash, the combination will pay for itself very quickly.\n\nI'm very happy I made this purchase.  :-)\n\nThis product was a personal purchase for myself at the normal retail price. I am reviewing it solely because I want to share my experience with other potential customers. I have received no compensation for my review nor do I have any relationship with the seller or manufacturer of this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3021, "id": 365685, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 466, "len_tokens": 545, "text": "Price was the key since I am on a limited fixed income. I bought this with the hopes that it would perform well enough to \"do the Job\" with as few issues as possible. Outside of a poorly designed drain system (I have a work around that works well) this washer has done very well. It cleans better than the local laundromat and removed some old stains. Cloths dry within 4 hours of spinning and do not damage fabric like the dryer at the  laundromat. I love being in full control of water temperature and wash times. I find a double rinse helps protect my skin from soap residue or excess fabric softener.\n\nWash cycle 9 min.: hot for whites and almost whites - with very little bleach / cold for everything else\nDrain and spin for 1 min.\n1st rinse 6 min.: Fabric softener added,  Warm for whites and almost whites - cold for everything else\nDrain and spin for 1 min.\n2nd rinse 3min: just cold water\nDrain and spin for 5 min.\nHad to experiment with water level and found a little less is better. Cloths should almost be covered by water not submerged totally. If nothing moves add more water or remove cloths.\n\nDraining issue: The tank under the spinner is also the overflow tank for the washer and is always connected to the drain. The wash tank has a drain valve that is closed during wash and open to drain. Since it is a common drain for both tanks the spin tank drains faster than the wash tank and air gets into the pump slowing down the drain process. What I found was to unplug the machine and set the control to drain until the water level stops falling (both tanks now have about the same amount of water. Put the control back to normal, plug back in and turn control back to drain. The pump has enough power to put out a strong stream  to a decent height. Eventually the air will get back into the system and you can repeat the process or just wait it out.\n\nYes this machine is more work, but I am impressed how much laundry I can do and how clean it comes out. As a disabled retired man time is not the issue, cost, and the ability to do laundry in a small apartment are much more important.\n\nSmall enough to set up on a packing case (so I don't have to bend over), connected to the sink facet  and drained into the toilet I have a small laundry that can be put into a closet out of the way when not in use. Come winter in northern NH I know I will be glad I don't have to go to the Laundromat.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3022, "id": 148990, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 414, "len_tokens": 551, "text": "I bought this today when it went on sale, after months of dithering and arguing with myself, thinking, why does one person need a dishwasher.  Answer?  I HATE DOING DISHES.  And I hate the clutter of a sink full of dirty dishes and cups and silverware.  See, I'm a shift-worker.  And let's face it, I hate housework. The last thing I want to do on a day off is the darned dishes.  Also my kitchenette is tiny - 7 feet square.  With a full sized stove and fridge, my counter-space is pretty much limited to a 2 foot square area to the right of the sink.  The left side is where the dish rack used to live.  Well, no more.  Now the dishwasher sits there and hums along quietly.  I love this thing.  It holds a week's worth of stuff for one person, it cleans them just fine on the 45 minute speed cycle, it only uses a reported 12 litres/3 gallons of hot water per full cycle, so I assume it's less on the speed cycle, and everything comes out shiny and clean.  It's about 1/2 the size of an 18\" dishwasher, it has one rack with a little side top rack that folds down for mugs, the cutlery tray is partitioned and can be removed easily if you want to throw in some pots, it's quiet, and dead easy to put together and hook up to the sink.  Just keep in mind, it's NOT small - it's 17 and 1/4 inches tall by 21 inches wide by 19 inches deep.  It does have a certain looming presence. But I don't care.  It does the darned dishes! And the new reduced height means it fits under my cupboards.\n\nThis is the newer model without the viewing window, which means lesser chance of seal failure.  I used teflon tape when I attached the hoses and so far so good.  I will report back in a couple months when I get the electric bill, but I bet it's about the same as handwashing.  Well ok, it's electric, so maybe not, but I DON'T CARE, it's a dishwasher and I feel like a real grownup now.\n\nFor just under 200 bucks, you can't go wrong.  And I got a full one-year warranty with purchase, for free.  I love it. I guess that's a bit ridiculous to say, but it's the next best thing to a live-in butler!  If only it loaded itself..... ah well one day.....", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3023, "id": 88383, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3024, "id": 346438, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 428, "len_tokens": 521, "text": "My husband was a skeptic about this purchase, but now he really appreciates it!  We live in a small apartment  built in the 1800's and we have no connections for a larger washer.  We despise the laundromat, and often use a full-size washer in a friend's location, but wanted something to wash a \"change of clothes\" or stained items that can't wait, or baby wipes (we use cloth ones) or baby clothes.  I do a lot of line drying in the summer, and had been washing by hand in the sink.  However, this restricts the usage of the sink by my husband, which is frustrating to him!  So, I saw this and thought I'd give it a try for $50, and I am so happy that I did!\n\nIt is compact and stores easily out of the way.  It is extremely easy to use, although I recommend using as little detergent as you can get away with until you are accustomed to the unit.  Since it is a simple agitating unit, you will need to do a first cycle to wash, then drain your clothes into the sink (holding the lid to keep the clothes inside) and then a second cycle to rinse (or add fabric softener as well.)\n\nFor the price, and for our needs with small children, this is a bargain.  It helps me from ruining stained baby and children's clothes while I'm waiting to amass a load large enough to take to the laundromat or friend's full-size washer.  If you had to, I would imagine it's great for emergency washing of cloth baby diapers. It is also good for soaking several items of adult clothing that may be stained, but it will not hold very many adult sized items at one time.  I find that if I overload it with larger items, the water leaks out of the top of the tub and onto the base, which is undesirable because the base is electric.\n\nOverall, however, I am very impressed as its agitation is plenty to remove stains and dirt just as well as a larger washer, and using hot water from the tap is enough to facilitate the stain removal as well.  Since it will not spin to remove any of the rinse water from the clothing, we are planning to buy a centrifugal portable dryer from Amazon in the winter months, as it will be impossible to continue to line dry where we live.\n\nI would recommend this to any apartment dweller, traveler, mom of small children or infants or disgruntled laundromat user!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3025, "id": 88631, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3026, "id": 87223, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3027, "id": 88359, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3028, "id": 506093, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 418, "len_tokens": 532, "text": "I wish there was a zero for the review process.  Absolutely horrid.  Purchased in a pack of 2 when the last of my latest 'extra' filters needed to be changed out.  I've become a fan of Amazon Prime.  A quick search turned this product up as a good replacement.  While not always thrilled with the quality of Amazon products, they've always met minimal expectations.  These filters fell below the bottom rung for me.  The first attempt at replacement was a mucky mess.  The silicone used as a lubricant covered both the inside and outside of the filter.  Replacement left me with a leak at the junction of the fridge and the new filter.  Removal and resetting of the added rubber compression ring provided no relief.  Everyone gets a bum product once in a while.  I decided to give the second of the pair a try.  I had noticed that the packaging of the first filter seemed like it had received a bit of bad treatment but overlooked it.  The second box had clearly been opened.  The plastic wrapping (that was NOT present on the first) had been opened and stuffed back into the box.  The silicone was not quite as plentiful as the first but required some care to avoid slippery hands.  Soaking the filter (as suggested in the instructions that were not present in the second box) was as successful as the first.  Soaking is error proof.  Inserting the filter produced a larger leak and a bigger mess than the first.  Removal stopped the leaking.  Cleaning, drying and re-seating the black rubber seat left me ready to try yet again.  I will admit.  The leaks are consistent but certainly not desirable.  It was time to remove the second replacement and dry the floors.  I figured that at this point there must be a failure in the O-ring at the point of attachment in the fridge.  It couldn't be the filters.  They were both new!  So, I tried inserting the \"no filter plug\" that came with the Bosch fridge.  It went on easily and didn't leak.  Odd.  I removed it and installed the original spent filter.  Sealed like a champ.  The replacements were, simply, losers.\n\nI've had products I could have reviewed as a '6' (if allowed.)  I've now seen the other end of the spectrum.  I've definitely used the reviews of others.  I find that my lack of objective comments in the past may have provided other potential purchasers with useful comments (he typed vainly.)  Lesson learned.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3029, "id": 394833, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 410, "len_tokens": 504, "text": "I placed my Amazon order for my Speed Queen washer on September 14th.  It arrived on October 10.  This was not because of any real snafus in the process  -  it is simply how long it takes.  Unfortunately  you would not anticipate such a length of time, from the Amazon ad, which says that it \"usually ships within 4-5 days.\"  Well, maybe it does, but then it takes forever to travel to its destination.  I am located in Silicon Valley; not on a gravel road in the wilds of Tennessee or suchlike, so maybe it would take even longer for someone else.\n\nI emailed HCost several times in the course of waiting (and waiting, and waiting).  They responded to my emails almost instantly, and as helpfully as they could (considering that they couldn't speed things up).\nJB Hunt, which did the last leg, spent a couple of days phoning me, using some weird incorrect number that I had never heard of (they had my actual phone number too, but didn't use it), but when I called them to ask where my washer was, they quickly fixed the error (this added at most two days to the wait, however if I had not been proactive I could have waited a LOT longer)\n\nSo, if you decide to order one of these things, you must understand that this is not like ordering a washer from Sears or Costco.  It is a specialty item from a source that does not have a great distribution system.  It won't arrive quickly, and the delivery service will not install it for you (however it is very easy to install yourself, if you have someone to help who is physically strong).\n\nFor all that, I am THRILLED  with this thing, and in two ways it is BETTER than the Amazon ad suggests.  Its capacity is greater than my old Kenmore, and according to the print on the appliance, it is commercial quality.  The ad did not suggest extra size or commercial strength.\n\nMy last machine was a Sears Kenmore 80 series that needed two clutches in its first five years, and then needed a third (finally I got rid of it).  My neighbor first got a Fisher and Paykel which broke constantly, and then a Maytag which rips her laundry to shreds.  And so on, and so on.  This machine gives every indication of being very well made.  It is worth waiting for.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3030, "id": 101579, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 423, "len_tokens": 563, "text": "I replaced my 14 year old dead quiet white Maytag with a stainless steel Bosch.  It has a nice, sleek look, but problems and more problems.  The first Bosch refrigerator was different from the showroom model in Lowes (stay away!).  The showroom model did NOT have two large vent holes on the top surface of the unit, and the refrigerator I received did--covered with stainless steel tape. I was told by the deliveryperson to keep on---a real pretty site, right? That was the first thing.  Second is the constant-- I repeat, constant--and penetrating alarm sound/shrill beep that goes on 15-20 seconds (not one minute) after the door is open, and there is NO way to permanently shut it off.  It can drive you CRAZY.  Next is when you get water from the dispenser. No matter how careful you are, it leaks and drips onto the surface of the door, then drips AFTER you take away the drinking glass. In addition, the freezer shelves fill with frost VERY quickly.  However, I noticed a crack in the interior of this unit, so back it went to Lowe's, and I received the same model as a replacement. Why I just didn't select another/different brand, well, I was naive.  I have a space problem and need a counter depth refrigerator.\nAnyway, the second Bosch refrigerator arrived, complete with the holes on top and all its other sundry faults I mentioned above. Now, the difference is that this second unit was so noisy, so loud, that I heard the noise from my bedroom, which is quite far away fron the kitchen. The noise was that loud and constant.  Let me repeat: constant.  I absolutely could not and cannot take it. I could not get a restful night's sleep.  Mind you, the first refrigerator was quiet.  This second replacement, as loud as can be, and extremely intolerable and unrelenting. Obviously, there was something wrong with it.  I called Lowe's and they are picking it up tomorrow, and that is the end of my buying a Bosch refrigerator. I will have my money refunded.  I am thinking about an LG.  I hear that brand is the quietest.  Any suggestions?  Bottom line:  please stay away, far, far away, from Bosch refrigerators.  The absolute worst.  Oh, one more thing:  I have a Dacor range and microwave.  The stainless steel on Dacor appliances seems superior in shine and durability to the much more duller Bosch finish.  Don't buy Bosch.  Ever.\nUpdate:  I finally found a refrigerator--a KitchenAid.  See my review of this.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3031, "id": 488846, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 411, "len_tokens": 514, "text": "SHORT STORY:  It worked, and solved the Dryer Problem.\nWARNING:  If you think you can chuck up the rods & turn on the drill, then this product will fail, and it will not clear the vent for you.  IT MUST BE USED GENTLY / PATIENTLY!  I can only recommend this, if you understand how fragile the rods really are.\nLONG STORY:  My Aunt's Dryer Quit Drying, & she wanted me to buy her another Dryer.  When I checked the Dryer out, I found that it was heating, tumbling, & blowing air.  I checked the vent, and found that it went up inside the wall, and vented through the roof.  After using a 'Leaf Blower' to see if I could blow a handful of dirt out the vent, my wife said she saw nothing when she watched the vent.  (There was a small piece of lint visible in the vent, and it never moved during this test.)  The roof was ceramic tile, and I didn't want to climb up on the roof, unless I absolutely had to.  I didn't know what I was going to do, and assured my Aunt that if I was right, even a new Dryer would not work until this vent was cleared.  I found this at the BOX STORE and being mechanically inclined, I could tell that the Concept of this device was Brilliant, but the quality, to make it reasonable to buy, was much less than I would have liked.  I had to be very careful, I used the drill to very slowly turn the rods, and stop immediately after 1-revolution, to allow the Rods to unwind, in case they had twisted while I was operating the drill (which it did throughout the process).  I had to very carefully gently apply the tools & drill twist force, and eventually cleared the plugged vent.  The Vacuum cleaner attachment cleared the vent as I extremely slowly cleared the plug.  I packed up the kit, and intend to clean the vent on an annual basis.  I used my iphone / camera in the vent opening, and could see up the pipe before (no visible light) & after (sunlight shone inside vent).\nDISCLAIMER:  I needed this ASAP, and actually bought it at one of the \"BOX STORE\" or I would no doubt have gotten it from Amazon, as I usually do... (I buy from Amazon almost exclusively by product reviews, and wanted to write one for this product.)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3032, "id": 224298, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 422, "len_tokens": 534, "text": "I've just ran my first load of laundry through the old whirlpool with this new motor; I notice it's quite a bit peppier, throwing the wet laundry around like a rented mule. That's what it's all about. I was surprised at how quickly it shipped and arrived; two thumbs up. I will note the following: mine was about twenty dollars cheaper a couple of days ago. ? I looked closely, and note that my motor was made in CHINA, not MEXICO. The old motor was made in the USA. I'm hoping that this is actually an official \"whirlpool part\" and not some cheap knock-off that burns my house down.\n\nA word of advice concerning the motor swap: this is a very simple process. I spent more time cleaning the lint from the inside of my machine than I did actual \"work\". Here comes the important part: (professional appliance repairmen, disregard.) Do not try to turn the motor shaft off of the blower fan housing with a wrench. It's made of soft plastic, and you'll likely accomplish nothing more than round off the edges of that portion (it calls for a 13/16th wrench) and end up having to destroy your blower fan in order to take the old motor out. Instead, use a set of vise-grips on the plastic, and wrench it down GOOD. I mean, GOOOOOD. You know what I'm talkin' about. Then, while holding the other end of the motor shaft with a 7/16th wrench (if I remember correctly), strike the vise-grip handle with a DEAD BLOW HAMMER. I know what you're thinking; \"Hey man, I'm not naturally powerful like you, how on Earth will I strike the opposite end of a motor shaft with a six lb dead blow hammer and hold it tightly with a tiny wrench in my hand?!\"  You won't. Because you're not like me. So do this: before positioning the vise-grips on the plastic portion, you'll slip the small wrench on the shaft flats and then position the other end of that wrench solid against the floor of the dryer cabinet, so that it and not you is taking all of the punishment (and more importantly, solid enough to transmit the energy of those blows into the wretched mating of plastic and metal). It took me about five solid blows before it came loose. No mess, no fuss, and marginal loss of temper. And more importantly, mama has a dryer again NOW, and isn't waiting for me to order another part to replace. You're welcome!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3033, "id": 274763, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 457, "len_tokens": 539, "text": "Edit: July 2017 -- (this is in the comments, but I wanted to put it here in case no one saw) Still love it, almost 3 years in! It's used daily, absolutely zero issues. Lights still turn on and are bright, I rarely use the strongest fan setting as the low and medium work really well. Its super easy to clean, I toss everything in the dishwasher a few times a month, wipe the top and sides clean and am good to go. I would 100% purchase this again.\n\nEdit: Feb. 23, 16 -- still loving this vent hood. After 14 months of almost daily use, I can honestly say I have zero complaints. I still only really use the lowest setting, and it works great, I've never even had to use it on high & only occasionally turn it up to medium. It is super easy to clean, we just toss the grates into the dishwasher, and its good to go. Very very happy with this purchase.\n\nOriginal review: Installed this when we remodeled the kitchen. Looks gorgeous with our other stainless appliances. We took out a dumb microwave to put this in. We had to run the ducting ourselves in order for it to vent outside, but that was a simple DIY project for us. After that was done, it only took us about 10 minutes to hang it. If you have a hood in place and are just swapping it out, it will take you no time at all to install this one. You'll need two people, or a way to keep it in place while you screw it in, but otherwise its simple.\n\nWe looked at a few range hoods, but ultimately went with this one because we wanted a higher-quality hood without having to spend a bazillion dollars, and this one fit the bill. It was a little more than I originally wanted to spend, but now that we have it I am glad this is the one we purchased. It just looks lovely, works perfectly and is easy-peasy to clean! I also really like that it is designed, engineered and assembled in the US!\n\nI am really impressed with how quiet it is, yet how much air it pulls even on the lowest setting. I use the lowest setting most of the time and its perfect. If you've got mad kitchen skills and are making fancy meals, you will probably more appreciate the mid and high settings. The lighting is nice too, seems to light up the entire stove top evenly. I have no complaints.\n\nOverall, I would give this more than 5 stars if I could. Its one of those things that truly seems to be worth what it costs.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3034, "id": 88047, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3035, "id": 457938, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 416, "len_tokens": 528, "text": "I don't even know you, but I'm trying to do you a really big favor...\n\nWe bought this dishwasher about 5 years ago (plus or minus a year) at Lowe's when many of the very helpful reviews on this site had yet to be written. In my many years on this planet, this may be the worst purchase I have ever made. As an aside, I CANNOT believe this product is still being sold!!! It would have been much easier to withdraw $1,000+ from the ATM, put it in a pile in the driveway, and set it on fire. As it is, we not only spent $1,000+ to purchase this product, we have spent about another thousand dollars on service calls. The first problem occurred when the arm that spins water near the top of the washer quit spinning. How did we notice this? The dishes weren't getting clean. Another consequence of this failure was that the dish washing detergent, which wasn't fully washing off of the glasses stored on the top rack, significantly etched all of our glasses (an additional cost to replace our glassware). The second service call resulted from a failed water sensor, which means the dishwasher ceased to operate. Now, about six months later, another failed water sensor, and the dishwasher is not operating. So, for now we have an inoperable dishwasher on which we have spent over $2,000.\nTo be fair:\n1. This dishwasher is very quiet (44db). It's even quieter now that it doesn't work (0db)!\n2. It has considerably more room than many other brands at a similar price point. Since it no longer washes dishes, perhaps I can use it as a toybox to store my sons' toys?! Hmmm...\n\n- So, you're still going to go to the Electrolux web site and you're going to be wooed by the pictures of the shiny stainless steel of this model, aren't you? Don't do it!\n- It's an Electrolux! My grandmother had an awesome Electrolux vacuum! it's got to be good, right? No, it doesn't!\n- It's over $1,000, it's high end, and you get what you pay for, right? No, not always!\n\nThe average rating of this dishwasher on Amazon is 1.1 stars! Do you know what that means? Because we reviewers are required to give products at least 1 star, it means the TRUE average rating for this product is .1 stars!? That may be the funniest thing I've heard all day!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3036, "id": 271259, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 447, "len_tokens": 534, "text": "Once you get past the mounting task, it's worth it!  But first, it has to be mounted.  There are many flaws with the product as received:\n\n1. A sizable dent in one corner of the sheet metal housing cover which doesn't affect the final appearance, function, or assembly process.  I was able to get Amazon to issue a small discount for the defect.  The dent looked obvious that it had come from handling in packaging.\n\n2. Two of the four vertical hanging brackets are a completely different design as what's in the instruction booklet.  They are actually beefier and provide better side load support for the unit once hung but the product description or instruction booklet failed to list the design changes.\n\n3. Imperfection in the two sheet metal outer covers did not allow them to slide into each other smooth.  But I overcame the problem with some candle wax and persistence.\n\n3. The instruction booklet is a joke and I literally ignored it for the process.  Since my ceiling is rather low (less than 8 feet), I had to improvise in the assembly/installation process to make it all work:  First, assembly the vertical hanging brackets to the housing.  Then attach the included flexible vent duct to the outlet in the housing using screw and duct tape.  Then assemble both outer walls into the unit, leaving the inner one positioned almost at the top leaving only enough access room to install and tighten the side screws to the ceiling plate.  Then, place the entire unit in location underneath where it will be mounted.  At this time, I already had the ceiling hole cut, ceiling plate mounted.  Then, stretch out the duct and feed it through the ceiling hole and secure it so that it doesn't fall down during installation.  Two other persons helped raise the unit closer to the ceiling, then feed the cord through the ceiling hole, then raise the unit up further to engage the four vertical legs with the ceiling plate.  Install all screws.  Last, push up the inner cover toward the ceiling and screw it in place.\n\nThe final appearance is very pleasing:  stainless steel cover, smoke clear glass top, and black control panel are very appealing.  The fan speed at high is very commendable and I could see vapor getting sucked into it.  The preset fan speed for the variety situation can be useful.  The 4 LED lights are white light and can be brighter as they are a bit weak.\n\nThere is a one minute delay once you turn the fan off with the fan continuing to run.  It's probably good for the electrical controls of the unit.  It's no bother.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3037, "id": 132995, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 434, "len_tokens": 505, "text": "This is a revised review on re-ordering this from Amazon to replace the earlier one. THIS FILTER IS NOW DIFFERENT:\n\nThis new replacement filter is visually different. It is no longer made in Korea, but says made in Mexico by 3M. If I do an online search on this, the results are not good. In fact there was litigation by State Farm Insurance on a filter that leaked in a home from a Samsung refrigerator from by a OEM replacement Samsung labeled filter made by 3M from what seems to be this same plant.\n\nMy problem is that this seems bait and switch. Suddenly this is a different filter. First thing you notice is that the label no longer has a serialized production number on it like the one from Korea. The label even was of less quality, thinner and was bubbled. You also notice that the filter itself has little nubs and shaved on the plastic outside housing that reveal a less than the same product finishing. If you peer down the hole, this new 3M labeled Samsung filter has a different sub-opening, it has a smaller plastic \"gate\" inside.\n\nSo I paid pretty much the same as last time here on Amazon, but received a different filter in actuality. They are making more money on better margins from me for this filter, but selling me a lesser built filter. I do not like that. Now I hope this doesn't leak, but it certainly from my research is at a higher risk of doing so. Moreover, I am not more concerned it can actually say as it says it can do as a filter and it's NSF rating. With this diminished quality on the outside, one has to wonder what corners were cut inside. DISAPPOINTING!\n\n-----------------------------------Old Review Below-----------------\nFirst time replacement on new refrigerator. Not sure what more I can add to what is a basic item; it either functions or it doesn't. However I will say that the order came in exactly as expected, shrink wrapped Samsung OEM replacement, exactly as the one installed. No problem installing. The only observation I can have is that the output is slightly less pressure than before. So no changes on my end except replacing the one that came with the fridge from the factory and this one, yet there is slightly less of a flow rate of water now. I see some people are seeing that too on these reviews, so I echo it. It's not a drastic drop, but it is a slight drop, which I hate to see from anything all brand new.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3038, "id": 87943, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3039, "id": 120393, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 430, "len_tokens": 513, "text": "Our Maytag MVWC400X is now 20 months old and out of order.  I had to unplug it in order for it to stop pumping out the washer as if it is on spin, but it isn't spinning, there is no water to pump, the lid is not locked and there are no lights on.  I tried plugging it back in after a few hours and it is still running.  Any other machine I would simply call service for, but I do not think I will bother.  We will be replacing this one.  This washer is quirky, but it did work. When I finally got used to it I LOVED it.  It washed huge loads with the tiniest amount of detergent and water and washed them well, although it seemed to take forever.  One of its quirks was getting out of balance more easily than a conventional washer.  No problem though, I just balanced out the soaking wet clothes and set the machine on \"Drain and Spin\" cycle.  After we had the washer close to 11 months, the drain and spin cycle stopped working.  It would start filling the washer instead of pumping out then spinning. Who knows what cycle it thought it was running. We called service a few weeks later and had no problem getting someone to come out and look at the machine.  The service hooked up his electronic scanner thing and \"checked the codes\".  (Not unlike the mechanics and the newer cars.)  The codes were OK.  He talked to Whirlpool and because the codes were OK they would not grant permission for him to repair the machine!  The representative on the phone had the nerve to tell him that it was supposed to work that way!  Kind of like my mechanic telling me my dead car does not need repairs because the scan is OK!  We have run the machine for almost a year wondering if the cycles really ran properly but the washer seemed to work.  We had decided the \"Drain and Spin\" cycle did that because it was stuck in extra rinse and we could live with it for then.  We also decided not to waste money extending a warranty that would not be honored anyway.  Now this.  No washer will be worth it if I have to repair it once a year for several hundred dollars every time. I still liked many of the features this washer had.  I may buy a similar machine but not one manufactured by Whirlpool and not without an extended warranty - from the store, not just the manufacturer!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3040, "id": 218460, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 381, "len_tokens": 506, "text": "LG washer opened during wash did thousands of dollars in water damage. LG refused to take responsibility for their product.\n\nBeware of LG!  Do your research first and save yourself some trouble.\nWe purchased an LG Front loading washing machine that opened up during a wash cycle and LG is refusing to cover any of the damages to our home.  This is particularly egregious because LG is aware that if their front loading machines over fill with water that the door will pop open.  LG is knowingly selling front loading washers that will open if, for whatever reason, they get too full of water.  We thought the washer was great before it just opened up.\n\nMODEL NAME: WM2650HRA  SERIAL NUMBER: 306PNAJ6G432\nPURCHASE DATE: 4/20/2014 Retail price $1,099.00\n\nIt worked perfectly until 5/10/2014 when during a sanitation wash cycle the front door opened and poured water out causing over $3000 (supported by estimates from licensed contractors) of damage to our living space by ruining wall to wall carpet and some of the sub floor.\n\nOn 5/10/14 LG service representative admitted that too much water would open the door.\nOn 5/19/14 Mr. Blake also stated that too much water would cause the door to open.\nThis proves that LG was well aware of this feature of their front loading washing machines.\n\n5-20-2014 LG Call CNM140520553488 Representative Katie refused to provide smart diagnosis report from 5/10 incident and refused to provide her last name but transferred me to a supervisor.\n\n5-20-2014 Adrian ID7008 seemed surprised that two people at LG had admitted the defect regarding the door opening.\n\nOn 6/16/2014 our claim was denied by LG\n\nWe have filed a formal complaint against LG with the North Carolina Dept of Justice Consumer protection dept. which has been assigned file number 1408167  LG replied with a frivolous reply claming there was nothing wrong with the washing machine.\n\nComplaint case # 31032574 has now been filed with the Better Business Bureau. LG replied with a frivolous reply referring us back to\nMr. Blake.\n\nBefore you buy any of their products you should be very aware that LG used to be Goldstar!  Would you buy a Goldstar appliance (remember the junky computer monitors)??  They changed their name for good reason but some things remain the same.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3041, "id": 88199, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3042, "id": 111414, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 431, "len_tokens": 545, "text": "I have bought Bosch appliances in the USA and have been pleased with their quality, especially the higher-end dishwashers. However, I wish I had bought a different washer and spent more time choosing it. I made a quick buy based on price and immediate availability, when moving into a new home that had no washer or dryer.\n\nI come from Europe and am used to, and expect, front-loader washers. I expect more features, better usability, and much better quality than I have with this washer.\n\nProblems:\n\n- Almost impossible to find, open, clean and replace the seal of (in a water-tight way) the lint trap. You have to pry the front-bnttom cover of the washer off with a screwdriver (through holes located on the sides, both sides, of the washer, so you first have to pull it out from wherever it's installed--you cannot remove the cover from the front only). The screw-on top to the trap is at an awkward angle inside the machine. Any grit that has accumulated within the lint trap gets trapped in the threads and makes it almost impossible to replace the top and make it fully water-tight. As it's a good practice to clean the lint trap regularly, this is REALLY poor design. All other washers that I have used have the trap cover in an easily-accessible place.\n\n- There's no way to program for an extra-heavily-soiled wash (i.e., no pre-wash program). Program choices are very limited.\n\n- THAT DARN PINGING that goes on, and on, and on when the wash is finished. Yes, you can turn it off but as it's a matter of pressing certain buttons in a certain order, it resets itself on a regular basis and PING PING PING PING PING darnit I know the wash has finished and I'll empty it in my own good time stop PINGING. Please.\n\n- And a note for anyone installing any washer and dryer. Make sure to ask the installers to put the washer on the left and the ddryer on the right, otherwise they WILL do it the other way around. And then when you go to wash somthing, you'll find the doors open towards each other. Then you'll either have to reinstall both the washer and dryer, or keep struggling to move the wet washing over the doors into the dryer. (NOTE TO SELF: remember this next time!)\n\nGood points:  it's a front-loader washing machine, it washes clothes well, it has an eco-friendly setting (lower temperature), and it does the job.\n\nIf I were buying again, I'd go (slightly) more upscale.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3043, "id": 181303, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 465, "len_tokens": 561, "text": "i bought this item on may 9,2013. fedex delivered it to the wrong apartment but, luckily, the person was honest & brought  it to me. i had contacted Sonya and Amazon (about not receiving the item) who promised it would be handled in my favor. however, Sonya did not require a signature for confirmation of delivery. i do not like that. if signature had been required, it would not have been delivered to someone else. that was FEDex fault tho, not Sonyas.\n\nnow for the panda washer--i used it for the first time ALL DAY yesterday and it worked well. it cleaned the clothes as a big washer would. i had lots of clothes to wash from my granddaughter who is 6 and can go thru clothes fast. i did not want to cram the washer too full so kept it going with small loads. i put the panda on a little table in my bathtub  (also put a small storage container in the tub for 1st rinse). when the panda had finished 9 min of washing,  i took the clothes out of the panda and put them in the container, filled it with water and rinsed them. but while i rinsed them, i put in another load to wash in that same sudsy water and washed them too. i used the same water to wash two loads before emptying it.  her clothes were not that dirty to begin with. saved some water plus detergent. after the rinse in the container put the clothes back in the panda and set time for 3 min to rinse them the second time. this worked for me. DO NOT BUY a large salad spinner to extract water- i did and it DOES NOT work. spent 100.00 and regret that b/c now i need to buy something to spin the water out. the clothes were still very wet when i had to take them to the laundromat to dry them rather than hanging them up.. but the panda did exactly what it is designed to do. now for how long it will last is anybodys guess. i hope it last at least a year or more b/c it will pay for itself 3-4 times over by then. i hate to go to laundromats- you never know whats been in the washers previously.  i'm happy so far with the panda. once you establish a routine, your wash does not take that long, depends on amount of clothes you have to do. machine was not really loud at all. oh yes, i do have the handheld shower attachment in my tub which is a \"must have\" if doing the wash in your tub-- makes it so much easier. only gave it 4 stars b/c don't know longevity of panda.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3044, "id": 351178, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 454, "len_tokens": 532, "text": "My machine arrived today. I was so excited! The excitement faded when I un- boxed the unit and the back panel fell off. All I could find was one short screw. When I tried to attach the panel, I couldn't because in addition to being warped, the interior holes where the screws needed to go had the tops missing (half holes) and they didn't match up to the holes on the panel. So I used clear packaging tape to secure the panel in place. I won't be showing the unit to anyone. Too embarrassed. It's brand new and looks like I bought it at a salvage store.\n\nThe drain hose.....it will drive you crazy. I watched a you tube video on  a similar unit. They set theirs up in the bathroom. I live in a 50 year old apartment. No bath tub, and just a 1\" lip on the walk in shower. When I placed the drain hose in the shower, it flipped around like it was alive. I soon had water all over the floor. So I moved the unit to in front of the kitchen sink. No go there either. The hose is flimsy and by stretching it to reach the sink, I worried it would soon split and there didn't seem to be a way to replace it with a longer one. The water comes out slow and steady, then sped up like it was a fire hose, then flops around. I then put the hose in a big plastic tote, but that was only a moderate success. Half full of water, the tote is extremely heavy to move and empty. So I elevated the unit by putting it on a kitchen chair. Better but not optimal. I used an elastic headband (cut in half), to secure the hose to the kitchen faucet. More flopping, more water on the floor. Since my dead full size washer is still here, I put the unit on top and replaced the old drain hose with the new one. Now the machine drains quickly and completely. I have to dump multiple pitchers of water into the unit, but as long as the machine is happy, that's all that matters.\n\nIt works well, and spins the clothes to perfection.\n\nIf you live in an older apartment, be aware that you're going to have a tough time finding the right spot to set up the unit. A better quality, heavier, longer hose without the hard plastic cover on it would be ideal. That hard collar or whatever it is you call it, gets in the way.\n\nPutting the hose in the shower would have been perfect, I just couldn't figure out how to secure it. Any ideas?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3045, "id": 38817, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 416, "len_tokens": 516, "text": "Purchased this item 2 weeks ago even though I had read some pretty harsh reviews. Item was delivered in about 4 days\nand came out of the box perfect. I let it set for 4 hours after installing the wheels and then plugged it in. The Compressor\nstarted instantly and was about as loud as every other small refrigerator. The instructions were pretty good. The only small problem was getting the black washer under the wing nut. The Tower installs in about 1 minute and is sturdy and looks\ngreat. N.E installs most of the washers at the factory and also gives you a bag of spare parts( clearly marked).I filled the\n2.5 LB CO2 Cylinder for $ 8.00 and the following day tapped a 1/6 Keg of Brooklyn Pennant. Yum! I am still trying to\nMaster the CO2 setting to avoid the foam, but after my first pour every other beer is great. I just take the first beer of 1/2\nfoam and put it in the fridge and instantly pour a few perfect pints. I love this thing. I never had to make a single thermostat adjustment. It came out of the box set at 35-36 degrees and has never deviated more than a degree or two.\nI have my regulator now set for 10 PSI but still get that first pint of 1/2 foam and then everything is perfect. I know that this is my fault because the regulator appears to be working fine. You could also pour your first beer into a pitcher and\nthat would solve the problem. I have only drank one keg out of this so far but Whats not to love. I paid $ 349.00 with\nFree shipping. It looks incredible,Works perfectly and I love coming home to a Cold Pint. Be advised that the Coupler will\nonly accept D Kegs ( American ) but will also work with Bass and a few other English beers. Not Newcastle though!\nMicro Matic has a great list of most beer kegs and what type of coupler you will need. the only American that I found that\nwill not work with this coupler is Anchor Steam. I have no idea why. Hope this review helps. So far so good. P.S I also\ncalled their tech support last week so see what temp I should be running at and the nice woman answered instantly and was very knowedgable. I give this Kegerator and Company 5 stars. Buy it and enjoy!  Bob V", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3046, "id": 88527, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3047, "id": 52516, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 478, "len_tokens": 580, "text": "We remodeled our kitchen and went from a wall oven and cooktop to this freestanding range (said it was slide in, but really, it didn't make a diffrence in our remodel) It's the range I wanted and we hunted and hunted and found a great deal as they are discontinuing this 30\" range, so Sears gave us the floor model for 1700.00 (added the 3 yr all inclusive warranty for 250.00 which I HIGHLY suggest you do if buying any appliances, its well worth it!!) So I have my dream range and love everything about it... My knobs are stainless steel so I don't have the melting issue that another reviewer had (stupid of GE to use plastic knobs when they are on the front of the range right above the oven, shame on you GE) The \"cooking oven\" under the large oven that another reviewer mentioned is really just a warming oven and I knew that going in (word of advice, if you want 2 ovens, get that model specifically, this bottom warming drawer is just that, a drawer, very small, perfect for warming plates of food, etc).  If you turn the \"warming drawer/oven\" to 450, its gets hot but I don't think it gets 450 hot, but I'm good with that because I stalked this model for months before I bought it, and the service lady that came out to make sure things were working great (its FREE once a year if you get the warranty)mentioned that was an issue that GE was working on and probably why they are discontinuing this model, to make it better).\n\nThe ONLY con on this range...the controls aren't lit up, not even a little bit which even with my kitchen lit up like a Christmas tree, I still need to really focus on what I am touching.  The controls are very easy to turn on with a touch, and the probe feature is great! I don't have to open my oven door, pull the food out,put my own probe in and wait.  I just stick the oven probe in before I close the door and hit the button and not worry about a thing knowing my food is baked/roasted to perfection! Being stainless steel is another minor issue, but as several others mentioned, keep it clean after each use and you won't have a problem ( I use pledge after I wipe down with soft sponge, it makes all the difference!). It does scratch easily but everyone should know this about stainless steel before buying it anyway, so just be a bit careful, and some scratches can be buffed out.  Also, the Service Agreement/Warranty covers knobs, front plate where the knobs are and anything else that goes wrong, other than normal wear and tear. So buy the range and the agreement, you won't be sorry!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3048, "id": 56257, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3049, "id": 244412, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 449, "len_tokens": 550, "text": "I have a Persian who, god bless her, she yaks one to several hairballs up on a daily basis. I have tried every single version of the hairball ointments and she absolutely hated them; some of them appeared to make her feel more nauseated. I tried all varieties of hairball control cat food and she either hated it or it just wouldn't work. It's also important to know that I am not someone who coddles their cat, I would wrap her in a towel and attempt to force-feed her that hairball ointment. I was that desperate and my own blood was shed in the wars.\n\nSeveral months ago, I saw some rave reviews for this product and held off from buying it given all my experience in \"hairball remedy\" claims. Finally, after being tired of scratches and evil glares, and after yet another night of hearing her hacking around 4am (right on cue!) I just gave in and ordered it.\n\nIt's now 2-3 months later that I'm writing this review. I have submitted an updated picture of the packaging since the current one that is advertised is not the current packaging.\n\nSTRAIGHT TO THE POINT: THESE THINGS WORK (and god bless my arms, she loves them!). Honestly I was baffled! As a human being, I was not aware I could be so ecstatic over a cat product.\n\nI gave my cat 6 treats daily, for two weeks, to start her out. I could swear that they worked immediately because I did not see a hairball for weeks (read on for why they came back). After the two weeks, as directed on the packaging, I started to cut back. I went to 2-4 treats daily. That lasted about a week or two and then I started hearing her hack again in the middle of the night. However, it's important to note that the only thing she did manage to yak up was the bile, there wasn't a hairball to be found. I've since then gone back to 6 treats/day and I have not heard her throwing up or encountered a hairball again.\n\nI DO NOT recommend just keeping your cat on 6 treats/day unless they have a very easily upset stomach as my cat does. Start them out strong and then find the balance. If your cat stays hairball free on less than 6 treats a day, it'll be easier on your wallet.\n\nI think at this point, it goes without saying, that I HIGHLY recommend this product. Even if one hairball occasionally gets by, it's nothing in comparison to the several per day that I was dealing with.\n\nSo help me god Friskies, if you discontinue this.....", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3050, "id": 297131, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 415, "len_tokens": 501, "text": "I live in a small two-bedroom apartment in a city and was so tired of having to go to the laundromat as I had done for over four years. Enter the Panda Small Compact Portable Washing Machine. There are some great videos of other Panda washers here on Amazon. I recommend taking a look at those, particularly the one of this model's smaller size.\n\nThis little unit is fantastic. I've now used it a couple dozen times and it works great. With the spin dryer, your clothes will come out significantly drier than they would out of a washer--there will be no dripping and you can place your clothes on a rack and they'll be more or less dry in 12-24 hours in the summer (I keep mine in the bathtub and luckily have a window right there). So it's a bit more work, takes a bit more involvement, but did I mention it will save you from trips to the laundromat?\n\nYou'll want to use less soap and a little fabric softener. Your clothes won't be as soft and fluffy as they would if you used a regular dryer, but again, it's a cost and benefit analysis here: more expensive, mind-numbing trips to the laundromat or clothes that are air dried? If you have space and can afford it, perhaps the Panda dryer or something similar would be a great option, but I haven't tried it. This works just fine for my needs.\n\nYou'll also want to clean that lint catcher after washing, particularly if you have a pet. Also, I put mine in my bathroom and just put the water outlet hose in the bathtub to drain. The drainer works great--pumps out all that dirty water in no time. I've found there's always a little water the pump can't get out after each wash, but no worries. I wash often enough I'm not concerned.\n\nI can fit at least three pairs of jeans, a couple of shorts, 4 t-shirts, and a few pairs of socks and underwear in the washer for each wash if I fill the water to high, and I might be underestimating just a tad.\n\nI see that this model is unavailable right now. I don't know if that's because they're just out of stock or because they've got a different product out now that does the same thing better, but I highly recommend Panda. They shipped fast, answered my one product question quickly, and this product is fantastic.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3051, "id": 430328, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 425, "len_tokens": 553, "text": "Was going to give it four stars since the only way I have to test filtering is anecdotally by tasting it and judging water flow to the GE OEM.  But, I tasted it against my tap water and it tasted noticeably better just like the OEM one.  And I don't recall the original filter tasting any better than this filter.  The filter's papers say \"material & components tested and certified by WQA Gold Seal against NSF/ANSI Standard 42 and Standard 53 for the reduction of substances listed below according to Standard 42 and Standard 53.\"  Cantamination Reduction for Chlorine Taste and Odor had average reduction of 97.1% (NSF Reduction Requirements say greater than or equal to 50%.  Nominal particulate Class I, greater than or equal to .5 to less than 1.0 micrometer average % reduction was 99.8%  with NSF reduction requirements of greater than 85%.  So if you believe their numbers, it passes no problem.  Anecdotally, my water flow seems to be about the same as the OEM when it was new.  My refrigerator is a GE Purifier Performance (older, \"Water by Culligan\") and water here in Indianapolis, IN is decent (comparatively).  I am wondering where the person who gave this filter bad marks for taste lives, as it definitely is fine for here.  I also wonder if the person who said the filter doesn't fit their refrigerator understands that the original filter was modified to work better (model changed) and required an adapter for some refrigerators (newer refrigerators don't need it).  It is easy to see if this is the case simply by unscrewing your original filter and  looking to see if the new filter's connection looks the same.  The filter was EASY to install, with absolutely no difference with the one I took off.  Didn't need to mark anything or make things complicated. But again, my refrigerator is a GE Purifier Performance, and perhaps other models are different.  The filter is also supposed to have water pressure between 30 and 80 (can be used at higher pressure with a pressure limit valve, if that's the only way you have to limit the pressure), so perhaps people have problems arising from that?  Water was also clear from the get-go with no black filter bits and clear water, so I dunno.  All I know is, I was a bit leery of buying a 'knock off', but having taken the chance, I am currently more than satisfied.  Barring any unforeseen problems/changes I will definitely purchase again, probably the three pack instead of just one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3052, "id": 343878, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 425, "len_tokens": 541, "text": "09/29/2017 UPDATE\nFinally got the top compartment fixed, problem with the sealed unit so fortunately still under warranty (5 years for sealed unit).  The repair time was about 6 weeks for the January 2017 failure.  On July 7, 2017 the top compartment again stopped cooling. It took two weeks to get a technician this time. It was the same tech as in January. He shook his head and said he was going to report it as defective.  It took until September 15, T E N (10) weeks before Samsung finally issued a refund for the purchase price. Those 10 weeks were pure ridiculousness, and all without a refrigerator.  Customer Service for defective units was only available M-F from 2PM-5PM, 3 hours, ET.  It generally took 10-12 redials just to get in the queue, then another hour MINIMUM, on hold, to get to a live person.  We had all of the paperwork turned in within two weeks of agreeing to a \"buy out\", but another 8 weeks for a refund. The only additional compensation was $200 for spoiled food. Nothing for the 10 weeks of almost daily grocery store trips, inability to keep/use leftovers, and \"fast food\".  All of the people I've dealt with have been very nice, but that did little mitigate the total customer service failure on Samsung's part. Call after call, for updates, with typical responses of \"the claim is being reviewed\". They offered me a buyout so what's to review? More weeks of \"well, everything is here, I'm not sure what the hold up is. I'll make sure you get a call\". And you guessed it, no call.  I really, really like the layout of this fridge. I have a ton of Samsung electronics in my home with no issues. I never could have imagined such a complete and total failure of an appliance from product to service. Until they get their act together, just don't.  Attached are the photos I was required to provide as part of the process-label removed from interior, and cord cut.\nUPDATE\nWe've had this refrigerator for a while now. About a month ago the top compartment stopped cooling. It still isn't fixed.  There is an issue with the sealed unit which is under a five year warranty. Unfortunately, Samsung has been unable to locate a certified technician to fix it. So I currently have a $4000 cabinet. I loved this refrigerator but am sorely disappointed in Samsung customer service.  Think twice before purchasing any Samsung product until they get their customer service back on track.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3053, "id": 552827, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 455, "len_tokens": 536, "text": "This is such a wonderful machine. I was replacing a Frigidaire that cleaned very well, but it had outdated styling, noisy, plastic interior and no upper spray arm.. The old Frigidaire had no casing and only a thin sheet of plastic enclosed fiberglass for insulation. It was actually a big pain to take out. Contrast to this new Bosch. The Bosch had an open top with insulation but all the sides were fully enclosed. If you put a top on it, it could stand alone and look beautiful. Most new appliances make you buy the electrical plug. The Bosch not only came with the electric plug, but it came with a junction box so that if you wanted to hardwire it, you'd just open the junction box and remove the short 110V plug and wire into the junction box. There were two very nicely housed hoses. One inlet and one outlet.. These were a breeze to connect. The Bosch came with an adaptor for different water connections. The only thing that was mildly difficult was the three piece kick panel. there is a rubber apron that hangs and goes between the kick plates. As I was installing this myself, the apron was hard to hold out of the way and also hold the screw driver and screw.. If you have someone to hold the apron, you're in great shape. (Tape doesn't stick by the way). You need to program your initial salt and rinse aid dispensing levels. The instructions are a tiny user unfriendly here.. They say Press the A button, and the C button at the same time, then press the B button. You need to refer to a pictogram to see that the A button is the NORMAL wash button, etc. But, after that's done, it's set. It comes with a small stick to dip in your tap water to tell you the hardness so you know your initial settings. Once I turned it on, I truly thought something was wrong. I couldn't hear anything. The first thing it does is turn on the drain, to pump out any remaining water. Completely silent. Then the water will start to fill. I only knew this was happening because I had the cabinet door open and saw the water hose jiggle tiny bit. After a short while, I finally could hear water swooshing around, but you really had to be there with your ear at the machine. You could watch TV sitting a foot away and not be disturbed. It's that quiet. So, the big test first load of dishes.. They came out awesome. Even better than the previous machine that I thought worked well. Load time took a bit more than two hours.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3054, "id": 87191, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3055, "id": 454536, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 390, "len_tokens": 507, "text": "I have had a Duet clothes washing unit for 4 years now (well before issues surfaced/where on the web, and with the price of this darn thing, who would have ever expected any issues to begin with.) The Duet was washing my delicates (expensive lingerie) in HOT (yes you read me right...can you say steam) H20 v. cold when just over a year old. The repairman came out and replaced the part that handles water temp. Now I've had the joy of experiencing mildew and funky smelling clothes. Likewise, as other posters mention, bleach doesnt work/get to the clothing intended. Went online, read about the issues, and much to my shagrin, I found my son's months old sock in the area between the bin and the door gasket (obviously the impetus and breeding ground for the mold all over my gasket.) Since not rinsing well, I have placed yet ANOTHER call into my repairman to see if perhaps another sock may be still be elsewhere in the unit blocking H20 flow for rinsing. Ultimately, I wish I had bought an LG or a Maytag. I will NEVER buy Whirlpool products again. Our 4 y/o Gold series dishwasher has been serviced 5 times since it was bought new with our house! The tech told me that Whirlpool KNEW the heating element was defective in our dishwasher and sold the units anyway (with the hopes that the part would last out the warranty period.) Additionally, our 4 y/o range has spillage down between the glass panels on the door which would indicate that it was not sealed properly. POOR quality control, POOR design. Lastly, don't waste your money on the optional base storage for this washer like I did...you see, Whirlpool's industrial designers apparently went to a two year online tech course school as they didn't bother to take into account standard sized laundry product containers when designing this base piece and thus, the unit is TOO SHORT to allow such containers to stand vertically/erect (which means you must lay things on their sides, risk spillage/fight to get things out). In short, expensive doesnt always equate into a better product. HEY WHIRLPOOL, MY SPOUSE IS AVAILABLE IF YOU WANT SOMEONE TO DESIGN A WELL THOUGHT OUT PRODUCT (he has a real I.D. and Masters degree) v. JUST AN AESTHECTICALLY PLEASING ONE!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3056, "id": 215708, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 459, "len_tokens": 566, "text": "Bought a house filled with GE Monogram appliances (Stove, Double Ovens, Dishwasher) but sans fridge. Did some investigating and the GE Cafe handles are almost identical to those of the Monogram (except the area the handle mounts in is slightly rounded as opposed to the Monogram's hard edges).\n\nBought it here on Amazon... and while Amazon will tell you one shipping date, it's wrong. You need to wait for HCCost to contact you with a window. While the delivery wasn't as fast as I would hope, it was getting frustrating with this fridge out of stock in Las Vegas, not to mention this Amazon deal was literally $300 cheaper than the nearest competitor.\n\nWhen it finally arrived, they unboxed it and slid it to the opening in my cabinets. I took it from there ($100 install fee for one stinkin' $8 tube? No thanks). Installation was self-explanatory.\n\nThe fridge I received was free from defects on the outside. The inside lip of the fridge seems to have some marks on it, but nothing I'm sure a magic eraser can't fix. They pack the fridge for the apocalypse so set aside about an hour to remove all the extra tape and plastic wrap they have in there.\n\nFor a counter-depth fridge, this sucker can fit a lot of food. First test was an entire Thanksgiving Dinner with a turkey and a ham and a ton of extras. All fit nicely. The bottom pull-out rack can have it's temperature changed (with some cool lighting effects) and is perfect for fitting cans of soda. (I have fit 30 cans. enough for 5 rows, 4+2 in each row)\n\nThe fridge is pretty quiet (I thought it was noisy for a second, but then I realized I literally had no fridge there for 3 weeks... anything is noisy.)\n\nThe screen on the front is pretty cook. I have seen some people saying the precise fill doesn't work, they are wrong. It does. When you pour water it will count out how many ounces you are dispensing (it is time-based and isn't an actual scientific measurement). That'll fill up all day long. \"Precise fill\", you choose how many ounces you need, and it will dispense it and auto-stop. The heated water, nice feature. Will we use it with a Keurig? Probably not. Haven't used the digital picture frame option yet but it is on my list.\n\nAll and all, it's a great fridge, at a great price, that takes a good deal of time to get to you with the Amazon option. And it is now fully manufactured in the USA... so if you had a bad experience with a GE product made elsewhere, give this one a shot. Totally different ballgame.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3057, "id": 62628, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 466, "len_tokens": 542, "text": "We purchased the FCM5SUWW based on a trip to a local store and found out when we unpackaged ours that GE has pulled a fast one.  The model in the store had the same model number but when you look at the actual freezer name plate on the back it has an extra letter in the model number.  The model we purchased is the FCM5SUCWW and the display was model FCM5SUBWW a previous revision with the same package model number.  GE has revised the model numbers and left the base order model number in the generic form so they can change production at any time.  The difference between the 'B' and the 'C' model revision is the small vertical divider that is used to keep items from falling off the internal step above the compressor.  This is listed in the parts diagram for previous models and was eliminated in the 'C' and newer revisions. We wish we had this information prior to putting it in service as we had another choice but food was thawing so we decided to keep it.\n\nAfter initial startup we noted the lid seal is not the greatest and leaks air so it tends to build up frost rapidly around the top couple inches of the freezer.  After several emails back and forth we found GE's customer service has no clue and they finally suggested a service call be made. If they offered a better magnetic seal like the upright freezers this would never happen and be a great product.  Customer service suggested to much humidity and to high of room temperature but it is in a 70 degree basement with 46% humidity it should have no problems whta so ever.  We can't wait until it really has some humidity in the spring or summer.\n\nFYI - don't count on replacing any parts on this model as most of them exceed the initial cost of the unit.  GE customer service made light of this fact but even the single wearable item like the lid seal requires the entire lid be replaced as the seal is not availible for purchase seperately a $141 cost.  We only paid $159 for the complete unit.\n\nFinal comment: at the end of the day; yes - it does keep frozen food frozen (quietly) and yes - it is a nice looking, small sized product.  But the lid seal is a real problem and parts are not an option due to excessive cost.  We only hope it will last a few years before the compressor fails due to the lid seal not sealing very well.  GE should at least offer an updated replacement seal instead of having to buy a complete lid.  We also wish they included the divider as previous revisions did.  Shame on you GE !!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3058, "id": 219602, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 413, "len_tokens": 509, "text": "I bought this because during the summer months 3 ice trays just doesn't cut it and I can't afford a new frig or ice maker.  If it doesn't break down, I probably won't return it but it's not what I would describe as an ice maker for the family.  Setup was easy if you follow the directions.  The problem is that it doesn't generate enough ice to be all that useful especially if there is more than 1 person.  First of all, the ice cubes are bullet shaped with a hollowed out core so they melt very fast and the holding bin only stores about 2-3 cups of ice.  1 cup of ice in a drink melts in about 10 minutes which is a little less time to produce and so to get any usefulness you have to run it all the time and bag frequently for the freezer.  In the short time I've had this it goes thru an extraordinary amount of ice.  Works for me for the summer but would be completely impractical for a family.  FYI, it looks to me like it takes about .08 to .10 kwh so I figure in my area it adds about $6-$8 to my electric bill.\n\nupdate:\n\nUpdate:\n\nThese are junk.  First one lLasted 10 months and then stopped working.  Magic chef told me to put salt in the water.  They said if if you use filtered water the sensors stop working so you're supposed to add salt to the water.  Huh?  I'm not adding salt so I asked if regular tap water would work.  So I did that and no go.  Then they told me to take it to this nightmare of repair shop downtown to have it fixed.  Bottom line: two weeks later, they never looked at it, but they told magic chef there wasn't anything wrong with it and magic chef refused to honor the warranty.  Okay, so I buy another one and that one lasted 3 months and quit working.  You might think I'm nuts for buying another one but I figure that if a company won't honor the warranty on their product then I'm going to stick it back to them any way I can.  Anyway, this time same thing happened; it lasted 3 months and then stopped working altogether.  I have another one on order so we'll see but so far I've never bought anything that was so unreliable.  Okay, well, except for the stupid dashcam I bought.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3059, "id": 571698, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 442, "len_tokens": 524, "text": "I have had 2 warranty claims on the LG WM 3488H unit within the 1st year of ownership!  The first one was a bad control panel that did not work the day I received the washer/dryer it took a full month for the LG warranty work to be repaired.  The second time was 1 month before the 1 year warranty ran out.  LG opened a case for the repair and first gave me a service authorization claim # for a company that no longer did warranty service for LG.  I called LG back 30 minutes later to inform them of this and LG said they would have to an outside authorization with a new repair service company and they would call me back with the company information.  I knew this could take some time from my last experience, but LG never called back.  So after 30 days I called LG back and LG said the machine is now out of warranty, even though it was called in before then, but they would still be authorizing a repair anyways paid for by LG (of course they should).  I'm still waiting to hear back from the repair company.\n\nBesides that, when it works this is a nice machine as long as you understand the limits of the condenser dryer.  I use it in my small business to do a single small load of bar towels every night.  It's nice having a compact machine that can wash and dry the towels so that they are ready to go the next morning.  The condenser dryer usually does not fully dry the towels like a hot air dryer.  There will be a small amount of dampness when you pull your clothes out, but that dries very quickly.  It's like a regular dryer set to \"less dry.\"  It also takes considerably longer than a traditional washer & dryer combo to finish a load, I figure it is usually 2 1/2-3 hours per load.  Where as I can do a full load on my high efficiency 1200 rpm front loading machine at home in less than a hour, move it to the dryer and have my laundry dry in just about 30 minutes more, while also doing the next wash load.  So the bottom line is if you do not have space for 2 normal washer & dryer machines or only have 110 volt power or don't have external venting, then this is a nice solution.  I just wish LG warranty service didn't take a month or more each time, and I am concerned that I have already had 2 repairs within 1 year on an expensive machine.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3060, "id": 397915, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 487, "len_tokens": 557, "text": "This water filter couldn't have been easier to install.  After placing my order I received an email from the seller thanking me for my purchase and offering helpful information such as frequently asked questions with corresponding answers, product information, and their assurance that if you are not happy with the filter, or it does not fit, they will offer an exchange or refund on the product.  I have changed water filters before on my previous fridge (a Samsung), but since moving into a new home and buying new appliances (GE Slate series), this would be my first attempt at replacing this filter.  For anyone wondering we purchased this fridge in June, so we got about 8 months out of the factory installed filter even though they recommend replacing every 6 months.  I simply waited until my light sensor turned red to indicate it was time to replace the water filter.  I received my order in 2 days thanks to Amazon Prime, and was ready to install this filter.  There is a little pamphlet inside the box along with the filter that has very simple instructions on how to replace your filter.  I liked that it suggested filling the new filter with tap water before installing.  This took about 2 minutes since the filter was dry, it would fill up then slowly absorb the water to the point where I could fill it again.  Once I had the filter to the point where it was almost filled with fresh water, I simply unscrewed the old filter and screwed in the new one, being careful not to over tighten as the directions suggested.  I held my \"reset filter\" button on the fridge and the red light turned off.  Included in the box was a sticker for every month of the year so that you could place the sticker on the new filter to indicate when you replaced it.  I will be curious to see how long this filter goes before having to replace.  I ran about 3 glasses of water through the new filter to clear out all the air bubbles.  There was minimal gurgling and a few spurts of getting the air out of the line before the water ran smoothly.  I did do a taste test and speed of water flow check before and after replacement and I'm happy to say there was no change in speed.  I had a horrible experience with the last fridge where I bought a bargain filter and it was like watching paint dry waiting for the water to come out.  No problems at all with this Sunny Shine water filter.  I will gladly re order again when it comes time to replace.  I've included a picture of the replaced picture with the sticker I put on it indicating when I replaced it.  ** I received this product at a discounted price for using and providing an honest review of the product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3061, "id": 215690, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 439, "len_tokens": 511, "text": "We bought this refrigerator in August of 2014.  The water dispenser/computer board did not work properly from the beginning.  It is supposed to measure your water - the screen just said 0oz as it filled my cup.  The hot water dispenser did not work at all.  The ice maker made ice that did not freeze properly and therefore did not come out when you use the ice dispenser on the front door.  After several service calls it was determined that the computer board was the issue.  There were no boards available throughout the company so after pressing the issue, GE replaced our original refrigerator.\n\nThe GE delivery team refused to hook up our water to the new refrigerator so it was impossible to know if the problem we had with the first one was solved with this new refrigerator.  After a few days the new refrigerator made a loud noise.  More service appointments and a new fan for the deli drawer and the noise persisted.  Luckily the very nice service guy agreed to hook up our water (apparently company policy is not to touch copper pipes).  The water features worked great. Finally. But the refrigerator is now freezing in some areas. This refrigerator is supposed to prevent freezing in the upper part due to its advanced dual cooling system.  Not so. Frozen eggs, carrots, yogurt and juice.\n\nFollowing week the refrigerator stopped cooling on a Friday morning.  Temperature went to 57. Earliest appointment GE could offer was Wednesday of the following week.  After several long phone calls we were promised $125 to go buy a dorm sized refrigerator in the interim.  I have a 1 month old, $3000 refrigerator standing empty and am feeding a family of 5 from a dorm sized refrigerator. Not impossible but frustrating.\n\nMonday morning the refrigerator starts working again on its own. Tech comes out Wednesday and can see from the computer that it went to 57 for three days. He cannot tell for sure what is wrong because its working again. Orders a new fan thinking that may be the problem.\n\nFollowing Saturday the refrigerator again stops cooling and goes to 56 degrees. As I write this Monday afternoon the refrigerator is still not cooling.\n\nGE's warranty is repair or replace - so buyer beware. GE is refusing to refund my money for this appliance that is unreliable and costing me hours of time and $$$ in spoiled food.  After multiple phone calls and requesting to speak to a supervisor, they have now offered a replacement upgrade.  Not sure I can trust this company and will continue to press for a refund.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3062, "id": 87847, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3063, "id": 87071, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3064, "id": 128871, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 446, "len_tokens": 523, "text": "I just had to write a review for this dishwasher because it has made my life so much easier. We bought the dishwasher February 6, 2015- it is ow July of 2017 and we have never once had a problem. It was SO EASY for my husband to set up and I cannot believe I have not written a review til now. Its just an amazing thing for any one. Especially me as a mother of 3 and wife, you know-I cook a lot. And I also have a small business and it is hectic and this thing is like one of the most heavenly machines invented for busy people. You spend enough time and energy trying to cook decent meals for the family and then just trying to get your ids to even sit down at the table at dinner time... thats like a whole other job. Just to not have to spend nearly an hour doing the dishes after lunch and dinner-AMAZING. I am just so impressed with it and it was cheap- like really, where are you going to get something that saves you a headache, takes care of a burden and saves an hour and a half of your valuable time in life every single day for $200??? Thats like 1/20th of my life spent doing dishes-are you kidding me.\n\nIts just excellent. Really. It is doing dinner dishes right now. Does it fit the giant pots and pans-no... but all of the dishes, plates and glasses from dinner- the 20 cups a day each child uses because they 'lost' it, all of the silverware and medium sized food containers. Then every evening(every other sometimes :) ) I just wash the big pans after letting them sit and soak in soapy water for a few hours and it takes maybe 5 minutes-instead of an hour and a half. I did try to wash my Brand new-used once Wilton cake pans in there one time though-it totally ruined my pans, that it my fault for not reading the pan label though, I was bummed I did that though... Great deal.\n\nOn a side note: My little pod holder or whatever it is that holds the cubes and hangs on a rack inside of the dishwasher-  was broke on arrival which was not ideal of course but it is a tiny part that you cannot find a replacement for and isn't necessary so I am okay with it.  Still not enough to deduct a star by any means. I just use Cascade powder anyway because its cheap and does a great job at getting them clean- a big box lasts for like 2-3 months.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3065, "id": 467211, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 421, "len_tokens": 526, "text": "5 stars for the part itself (3 stars for the seller HomeAppliancePart). First, the seller HomeAppliancePart seems a bit shady to me only because I purchased this part from them for $138.87 + shipping and tax. Then immediately after I placed my order, the priced dropped to $109.95 + shipping. That's dropping the price almost $30 just minutes after an order is placed. If they can afford to sell it for $109, I'd have liked that price too. Maybe they thought I wouldn't like to save $30 on my purchase? Anyway, not happy about that.\nOn another note, my order gave me an ETA of about 1 week for the part to arrive and I actually received the part in 2 days. So I'm more than pleased with that!\nStill, $30?! Well, nobody's perfect.\n\nI have a KitchenAid model KUDI01ILBL4 dishwasher and this part is an EXACT replacement of the front panel. I had done a bit of troubleshooting on my dishwasher, read the manuals (printed free online), watched a few YouTube videos on it, etc.\nI checked the most common problem: Thermal fuse. Continuity was good.\nChecked the #2 most common problem: Heating element. Continuity was good.\n\nThe 3rd most common problem was the front panel buttons. I wanted to BE SURE that was my problem before taking steps so I actually called out an appliance tech to see what the problem was. I told him what lights were flashing and he didn't even look at the dishwasher. Told me he knew exactly what the problem was and that I'd have to replace the front panel and the control board (PCB board behind the front panel). Told me those parts could not be purchased separately so I'd have to buy them both.\nParts and labor for the repair: $408.85!!! (the parts alone came to over $240)\nI know what you're thinking and that's exactly what I told him, \"I can buy a new dishwasher for that!\" Long story short, I said thanks but no thanks and I didn't hire the repair. He still stuck me for $60 for the visit but I guess he has to eat too so...whatever.\nFound this part here on Amazon for a fraction of the price the technician wanted to charge me. JUST the front panel without the control board (Amazon sells the control board separately if you need it). I watched YouTube to learn the task and did the repair myself.\n\nDishwasher works like new and I saved roughly $260!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3066, "id": 468828, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 415, "len_tokens": 523, "text": "I can't tell you how many reviews on different brands of machines I read before I 'just did it!' Some of the reviews about this washer and its dryer mate weren't very pleasing.\n\nIt's nearly October and I've been using my W&D set since February. After having used front-load Whirlpool machines for 5+ years and the standard type of machine you'd find in a rental apartment for many years previous I knew what I like and don't like. I feel that if you're ready for a step up in your laundry machines then this is the set for you.\n\nAs an experienced user of front-load machines - The ability to dry a queen size bedspread and the storage drawer (available for an additional fee) was nice. It was 'fun' to be able to watch your clothes tumble dry, but it didn't get my clothes any drier.\n\nThe Maytag Bravos W&D set is wonderful. I am so glad I bought this set. I don't have really any complaints about the dryer. The dryer readily accepts a queen size blanket/comforter. I jest that two small children can fit into the tub for a good washin'! The dryer could dry two small children. (All in jest of course)\n\nI am quite fond of my Maytag Bravos dryer. It does its job efficiently. My complaints about this dryer would be that....the low setting really isn't that low.\n\nUPDATE:  After having had the dryer for over a year I do have three complaints.  1.  I wish I didn't have to push a button for all the lights to go off in the display.  If the cycle is over, all the lights should go out. The same goes for the washer.  2.  It gets very very hot!!  I make sure I only run the dryer for no more than 20-30 minutes at a time.  I never use the other settings.  I frequently check my exhaust tube and there is little if any debris in it.  I have a household of two adults and checking it every 6 months is alot.  I wonder what the inside of the machine is like.  3. No volume on the buzzer.  It REALLLLY does not want you to forget about it.  Seriously.\n\n- Last but not least...if I could have a found a less expensive comparable set of machines I would have bought them.  I don't ever recall complaining about my plain top load big washer and dryer I bought 15 yrs ago from JCP.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3067, "id": 347789, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 452, "len_tokens": 526, "text": "This product is short of having changed my life.  I don't say that lightly as someone who has lived in his apartment his entire adult life as a city guy.  I used to be that guy that would own so many pairs of socks and underwear and save piles and piles of laundry for that one dreaded day a month I would go down to the dungeon of sad terminally ill washing machines who still felt they deserved premium dollar for their sub-quality service.  No sir, this is no longer me.  Today I sport a lovely compact RCA portable washer next to my sink.  I wash freely and with ease and that pile of clothes in the corner of my bedroom -- poof.  In fact, my washer has doubled as a hamper.  This machine is powerful and albeit I considered other more pricier competitors I trusted the brand RCA as my old RCA CD player as a kid never did me wrong.\n\nThis little power-house will wash with great strength and spin dry it with a superior air-dry quality.  I cheated a little and I was able to fit a full-size bed comforter that wasn't too fat in it.  It was a bit too much for the little guy but it still washed it enough.  Also, I was nervous but I was able to trust it with leaving the faucet open and the little guy was able to fully control the water pressure when not using water.  Meaning you can technically leave the water running and leave and this little guy will not create a flood.  Anyway, the set up is super easy.\n\nADVICE: Do occasionally drain the hose by lowering it to the ground and letting it drain out in a pan or something so you don't develop mold.  On occasion run your whites last with bleach to help keep the pipes clean as well.  Don't forget to buy lint trappers.  Also, when washing with hot water I generally am cautious about not leaving the faucet on.  Some parts of this item are plastic and well the scalding water isn't the greatest thing for plastic so I'm just cautious of not letting hot water run through its pipes more than it has to.  If you are someone like me living the big city life but suffering with laundry issues.  This is the best roommate ever.  You can also buy little wheels and wheel it in and out of your used spot when you have company and want to make the place look less inhabitable.  Finally, if you dislike your landlord/super this is a great way to stick it to the company by not contributing your money to their laundry room monopoly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3068, "id": 402679, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 404, "len_tokens": 512, "text": "Life changer for me.  I bought this (from another retailer - wanted to be able to use PayPal 6 months no interest, no payments) because I wanted a lightweight portable washer with a gravity drain.  A pump (to me) was just another thing that could break and would just make the machine heavier.\n\nCons:\n1). The water intake pipe does not fit any faucet in my home.  I tried to find a turkey baster in 4 different stores in town, no luck.  I just use a funnel and hold it up to my shower head for ~5 mins to fill for large loads.\n\n2). The power cord is too short.  I have to use an outdoor extension cord for it to reach an outlet in my bathroom.\n\n3).  Lint trap does almost nothing. Even doing towels, it barely catches any hair or lint.\n\nPros:\n1).  Lightweight - very easy for me to lift in and out of my bathtub\n\n2).  Quiet - I live in a 2nd floor apartment.  To keep it quieter and prevent damage to my tub, I bought some no slip drawer liners and dense scrubby sponges from the Dollar Tree to cushion the \"feet\".  It also prevents the washer from \"walking\" when the spinner is unbalanced at first from just being loaded.  TIP:  if you use the water intake to rinse, start rinsing a few seconds BEFORE you turn on the spinner and continue rinsing until the drain water is clear - balances the load much quicker.\n\n3).  Cleans very well.  Haven't had an issue with clothes not being thoroughly clean after a 6 minute cycle. Uses much less detergent, bleach, and fabric softener too - about a tablespoon each (little less on softener) for full loads.\n\nOverall, no real complaints.  While it is not perfect,  I don't have to spend tons of quarters on laundry anymore.  A few household items or dollar store hacks help where the machine does fall short.  I now can't use the excuses of I don't have laundry money -or- It's too cold/hot/rainy to lug this stuff up to the laundromat.\n\nEdited to add:  For anyone with kids - this does fit and properly wash/spin a twin sized comforter.  I wouldn't put the sheets in at the same time because I think it wouldn't clean as well, but they would fit if you truly didn't want/have a second load.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3069, "id": 451139, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 477, "len_tokens": 570, "text": "I have one of these stone-topped grills, but I didn't get it from Amazon. None the less, I will review this product for the sake of others considering it.\n\nDoes it brown meat? Hell yes. If you try to brown meat and fail, it's because the stone wasn't hot enough when you put the meat on. The stone has a very high heat capacity and takes a while to get searing hot, but once it's hot, it will brown if not blacken meat easily. The stone takes a minute or two to pre-heat. Make sure you thoroughly oil the stone when you pre-heat the stone. Failure to oil the stone will make food stick to it. The stone may actually have to be seasoned before use. I don't know; mine came in a box covered in Japanese text, which I can't read.\n\nIs it easy to clean? Absolutely not. I used mine for korean barbecue. Korean marinades tend to contain sugar, fruit juices, or malt syrup. All of these ingredients will char and leave your grill topper caked with carbon. Do not wash the grill with soap; the stone is porous and is meant to be scraped clean. Soap will get into the pores and ruin the flavor of subsequent meals cooked on it. Repeated use will season the stone until it's blackened like an old cast iron pan. Rinse the cooking surface under hot water and scrub with a coarse stiff brush a few times to get the loose stuff off, then and scrape any charred junk off using either a razor blade topped scraper or a utility blade. The one biggest drawback of this thing is the difficulty of cleaning it.\n\nIf the difficulty of cleaning is not worth the extra heat retention of the stone, this product is not going to be worth it for you. If you absolutely must have convenience, get one of those nonstick coated grill toppers.\n\nNow, I must add that if you heat your stone too quickly, it might develop cracks, so pre-heat on medium or medium-low rather than blasting it on high. Mine still works, but it had visible cracks going through it after the first use, where I foolishly heated it on full blast. The outer metal portion holds it together such that the cracks aren't really a big deal, but I imagine that after repeated use, a cracked stone might fall apart eventually.\n\nOne more thing: this device is not meant to be used on the stove top. The stoves I've tried it on don't fit well; if it doesn't fit well, it can shift around. It fits best on one of those portable butane canister fueled burners commonly sold in Asian markets. The idea is that you have this thing going at the table, and you cook your meats at the table Korean Barbecue style.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3070, "id": 426098, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 416, "len_tokens": 528, "text": "I've now been the proud owner of my Panda (15 lbs) for about a year and i LOVE it. It is knows in my friend-circles as my \"Japanese boyfriend\".\n\nA few details: I live in NYC on a third floor walkup in a tiny 500 sq ft apartment.\n\nPROS:\n- It works. There are a few details to be aware of (see cons), but it gets the job DONE, and has significantly improved my life quality. Before the panda, I used to make bi-weekly 5-hour trips up/down six flights of stairs to a highly competitive/expensive laundromat. No more!\n- Its FAST but requires some work: The way it works is you fill up the laundry, add water/detergent and set the wash for 15 mins. After that, you flip a switch, and the panda automatically drains itself. You refill, and run a rinse cycle (also 15 mins). When it's done draining for the second time, you transfer the clothing into the centrifuge for 3- minute cycles (I do 2-3 centrifuges per load, depending on how much stuff you have in there). Is it a bit of a chore? Yes. But if you're looking into this you're not going to have a real machine, so this is absolutely as good as it gets.\n- It's basically a giant, sturdy piece of plastic. I'm borderline emotional about it, but it is absolutely high quality, and very much designed to be simple and with the end user in mind.\n- For what it does, it's surprisingly quiet (unless you load the spinner wrong - see cons).\n\nCONS/Things to be aware of:\n- Lint. There will be lint. I just bought a six-pack of lint remover and make sure to give things a check after they dry. I have also bought lint traps to put at the end of the hose to minimize issue.\n- It will clog your drain. High draino usage recommended\n- The spinner/centrifuge has a bit of magic to it. Make sure to fill it all the way up or it won't spin properly.\n- It's big. I went with the larger one (15lbs) because I'm lazy, but its never going to be a discrete piece of equipment. That being said, for a washing machine, it's not bad-looking.\n\nTo sum up: me & my panda are extremely happy customers, and want to give a big shout-out to the product designers for producing something that makes life so much easier for us tiny urban apartment-dwellers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3071, "id": 552479, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 419, "len_tokens": 503, "text": "These new bearings are so much quieter than the OEM bearing that were going out on our washer.  There is no way for me to be sure, but I think it spins faster now, too.  In all fairness, our washer is going on ten years old, so the old ones did last a while.  I expect these to last at least that long or until we replace this machine.  The order arrived quickly and all the contents were very well packaged.\n\nI watched a few vids on UToob to see how to take the machine apart. I really liked the one from Yellow Van Handyman.  He disassembled the exact model we have and offered a some great tips and tricks for taking the machine apart and removing the tub and drum assembly.\n\nThat being said,  Make sure you watch the Front Load Bearing(sellers) videos.  There are some great tips and trick on the actual bearing removal and installation.  On my first attempt, I did not get my seal seated all the way and when I reassembled the drum and tub, the drum did not spin freely.  This was my fault and if I had watched the sellers videos first, I would have avoided this mistake.  No harm done, just extra time and a few laughs at my expense.\n\nHINT -- When you are driving you bearings out, I found that a standard 5 gallon bucket ( like the one the sheetrock compound comes in), works very well as a cradle and support.  There are some tabs on the joining edge of the the rear section of the tub you must not damage. The 5 gallon bucket is wide enough and tall enough to hold the tub when working on both the inner and outer bearings.\n\nOverall the process was easy for the average DIY person.  You may want to get some help with removing the tub and drum, it is pretty heavy and bulky.  Get a jar to put all the screws in, there are alot.  I think the only tools I needed were a 7mm socket and driver, small flat head screwdriver, large crescent wrench or socket set, large screwdriver or bar (to lock pulley in place) and a rubber mallet( although you can use a regular hammer), a piece of 2x4 and some white lithium grease.\n\nJust take your time and pause the videos as you work.\n\nBTW have a few beer cold for when you finish, because you should reward yourself for a job well done.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3072, "id": 295957, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 360, "len_tokens": 526, "text": "Lets get this out of the way: This kegerator has its faults.  Mainly, the regulator is comes with is garbage.  You would expect a dual-tap kegerator to come with a dual regulator (so you can regulate the pressure for each keg) or at the very least a regulator and a splitter (less desirable way to go but can get the job done if the kegs both use the same pressure), but this only comes with a single gauge regulator.  And yes, it's just a single gauge regulator so you'll have to guess when you're running out of CO2 unless you add on another gauge.  I had someone modify my regulator to add on another regulator and a high pressure gauge and it took him WAY longer than it should have because all the parts were glued together and some of the threadings were backwards from what you'd expect and whatnot.  I'd recommend just replacing the whole regulator with a proper dual one if you get this kegerator.\n\nAnother minor grievance I had was that instructions were obviously very generic and not for my specific model of kegerator.  I had to guess which screws went where and how to do certain things simply because the instructions weren't for my specific unit.  And it certainly didn't help that the kit has a bunch of extra parts which makes you second guess yourself, or worse, use the wrong part in the wrong place.\n\nFinally, this kegerator advertises that you could fit 3 1/6 barrel kegs inside it.  Now while this kegerator is large and spacious and has plenty of room for a full keg or a couple 1/6th kegs plus tubing, regulator, CO2 bottle (which is mounted on the inside), etc, there's virtually no way you're fitting 3 1/6 kegs inside it.  It's just not happening.\n\nHowever, if you can get past all those faults, you'll find a very nice kegerator with a digital display, quiet operation, dual taps and all the parts you need (sans a decent regulator).  Seriously though, get this regulator instead and save yourself the headache:&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Taprite-T752HP-Two-Product-Dual-Pressure-Kegerator-CO2-Regulator/dp/B0060NOX40/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Taprite T752HP Two Product Dual Pressure Kegerator CO2 Regulator</a>", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3073, "id": 65893, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 411, "len_tokens": 551, "text": "It's not often I get excited about dryer lint. Well, ok, never really. But this thing was amazing. Our Samsung dryer has blown the heating element 3 times in six years because of badly clogged vents. Wish I had discovered that fact, and this product, sooner.\n\nI connected the shop vac to one end, and ran this thing from the other. About halfway through I noticed the shop vac making that high-pitched noise it makes when there is a clog. I removed it from the wall to find a plug of lint exactly 4\" in diameter, and about a foot long! It was disgusting, I was so happy. Hooked the vacuum back up and finished up the rest of the pipe.\n\nBe sure to follow the instructions and you shouldn't have any issues. Namely:\n\n1) Always make sure to rotate the drill CLOCKWISE, both going in and pulling back out. This is so that the connecting rods don't unscrew while in the vent. (The instructions suggest taping them together to further lessen the likelihood of them coming apart. I did not, and can't imagine that it would be necessary if you are doing it right.)\n\n2) Only attach one rod at a time. This makes it a little more of a pain in the rear, because you have to keep stopping, detach from the drill, connect the next rod, connect to the drill. Go. Then stop and repeat 30 seconds later. But if you try to do more than one rod at a time, it is nearly impossible to feed it correctly.\n\n3) Because you can only do one length at a time, you're really cleaning in 3' sections. For each 3', I recommend going back and forth multiple times to really get everything out. As it happened, I had removed a 4' section of duct about halfway through my run, because I'm also installing a booster fan (http://www.amazon.com/Fantech-DBF-Dryer-Booster-Duct/dp/B000GXF7KO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1441988913&sr=1-1&keywords=dbf110). This gave me the opportunity to \"practice\" on this removed section of pipe to see how it actually worked inside. What I found was that it doesn't necessarily clear everything in one pass.\n\n4) You also don't want to go too fast. Think of it kind of like a vacuum cleaner on carpet: you can run from one end of the room to the other, but the vacuum will be much more effective if you go slower and allow it to grab more dirt.\n\nLove this product. Happy lint hunting!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3074, "id": 497099, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 401, "len_tokens": 521, "text": "The humidity in my house was always about 20%...rarely 22%.  After this install we are at 38% and could go higher if I wanted to.  Honestly, there's a youtube video of how to install this...its way easier than reading the instructions.  The vacuum hose that goes to the little white switch was backwards of what they said.  I thought it was broke and swapped the black/clear hoses around and bam, it fired right up.\n\nThe solenoid will turn on and off to save water while running.  However, it will still drain A LOT of water while it is on.  The key here is to install a valve on the water supply hose and limit the amount of water that can flow in.  I have no doubt that I have cut about 80-90% of the water waste!!!!!  I have a 95% furnace with variable speed fan, and the water is adjusted to where it just BARELY drains any water when on full speed.  As long as it's draining water, it means the waffle pad (the thing that the air passes through to get water into the air) is fully saturated.  Even when on low fan, it drains drastically less than before.  I know it's still working fine because otherwise I wouldn't be near the humidity levels I see now.\n\nWear gloves when cutting the holes or you might get torn up...also be aware you'll have to find a way to drill a 3/4\" hole for a rubber grommet that the sensor needs.  I had a 1/2\" bit and...well...lets just say it was interesting getting it to 3/4...For the big rectangle hole, I actually cut a smaller size, then bent the edges back toward the inside to the actual size, so the edges of the hole are bent metal instead of sharp edges.  Probably took about 2 hours to install.  A metal cutting disk on a dremmel would have been way faster probably.\n\nThe reason for 4 stars is the instructions really aren't that clear...they don't even tell you to put the rubber piece in the \"saddle\" clamp when installing it to puncture a hole in the water line.  It would be quite the show without it.\n\nOverall it's a drastically better feeling house at around 40% humidity and has really stopped the \"dry nose\" morning...I'm sort of amazed at how different the house feels.  I didn't expect it to make much difference.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3075, "id": 87711, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3076, "id": 53762, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 466, "len_tokens": 542, "text": "We purchased the FCM5SUWW based on a trip to a local store and found out when we unpackaged ours that GE has pulled a fast one.  The model in the store had the same model number but when you look at the actual freezer name plate on the back it has an extra letter in the model number.  The model we purchased is the FCM5SUCWW and the display was model FCM5SUBWW a previous revision with the same package model number.  GE has revised the model numbers and left the base order model number in the generic form so they can change production at any time.  The difference between the 'B' and the 'C' model revision is the small vertical divider that is used to keep items from falling off the internal step above the compressor.  This is listed in the parts diagram for previous models and was eliminated in the 'C' and newer revisions. We wish we had this information prior to putting it in service as we had another choice but food was thawing so we decided to keep it.\n\nAfter initial startup we noted the lid seal is not the greatest and leaks air so it tends to build up frost rapidly around the top couple inches of the freezer.  After several emails back and forth we found GE's customer service has no clue and they finally suggested a service call be made. If they offered a better magnetic seal like the upright freezers this would never happen and be a great product.  Customer service suggested to much humidity and to high of room temperature but it is in a 70 degree basement with 46% humidity it should have no problems whta so ever.  We can't wait until it really has some humidity in the spring or summer.\n\nFYI - don't count on replacing any parts on this model as most of them exceed the initial cost of the unit.  GE customer service made light of this fact but even the single wearable item like the lid seal requires the entire lid be replaced as the seal is not availible for purchase seperately a $141 cost.  We only paid $159 for the complete unit.\n\nFinal comment: at the end of the day; yes - it does keep frozen food frozen (quietly) and yes - it is a nice looking, small sized product.  But the lid seal is a real problem and parts are not an option due to excessive cost.  We only hope it will last a few years before the compressor fails due to the lid seal not sealing very well.  GE should at least offer an updated replacement seal instead of having to buy a complete lid.  We also wish they included the divider as previous revisions did.  Shame on you GE !!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3077, "id": 87927, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3078, "id": 88351, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3079, "id": 78315, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 456, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "We have this stove for several months now. Purchased it based on Consumer Reports review and prior experience with Electrolux's OUTSTANDING commitment to customer service.  We do NOT do a lot of cooking, so this stove is overkill for our needs....but it looks pretty.\n\nLIKES:\nLot's of great features and great looks with the wave touch control panel that looks like it came out of a Star Trek episode.  MANY cooking options with multiple timers, fast pre-heat, perfect Turkey (going to try for Thanksgiving), multiple stage and convection.  More than I'll ever use for sure. Attractive front door design and solid quality cast iron grates.\n\nHaven't used it more than a few dozen times but seems to cook well and evenly.  Inside is well lit with theater lighting.  Luxury Racks extend all the way out for easy access to food.  3 Shelves in the main oven can really cook a feast. Doors stay put in whatever position you leave it.  I haven't used the bottom oven yet as I mostly use it for storing baking pans. Will likely load it up this coming holiday season.  Broiler works well als.\n\nDISLIKES:\nThe front-right \"Precise Simmer\" burner is difficult to light!  Every review of this stove indicates the same thing.  Remaining 4 burners light instantly. The special simmer burner clicks, clicks, clicks away while the gas fumes out of the burner.  After another start, the gas ignites in a puff of flames that blow out under whatever pot you may have there. Happens all the time, every time and for most users who have reviewed this oven online.  I've yet to figure out the magic way to light this burner on the first attempt.\n\nEasily Scratches.  The cast iron grates scratch the stainless steel stove top WAY too easily.  The slightest slide of a grate scratches!  You must carefully lift each grate to clean the top and carefully replace.  No sliding into place or you'll be sorry.\n\nBroiler smells.  Whatever coating Electrolux put on the broiler stinks and stays for some time.  You might think there is some plastic buried somewhere in the stove the first 5 times you use the broiler. I'm told by the service guy this is normal for Electrolux. He says its the coating they put on the broiler top to prevent rust.\n\nDoor glass hazy.  Something happened in the first few weeks that caused a hazy film to appear between the inside and outside glass. I'll be contacting Electrolux shortly to see what can be done.\n\nWhile we haven't used it to cook any major meals (Wife doesn't cook...lucky me) (just some pizzas and a few other things)I expect it will hold up quite well and serve us for years to come.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3080, "id": 396541, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 479, "len_tokens": 543, "text": "Bought this for the man for fathers day and a hit a home run. We never bought a freezer with an ice maker because everyone we know has a broken one! Why take up that space in your freezer for something that doesn't work?\n  It is a large machine,and I can see how some would say it's noisy. It does make a constant humming noise. but it is nothing crazy. You do hear it when it dumps the ice into the tray, but it's not bad. After the first couple of days I barely even notice it.\n  Put cold water in to start and it will work faster and better. if you don't it still works, but the first batch or two will be smaller than the rest.\n  We have it on in the evenings and transfer the ice to a plastic bag for the freezer. This has been able to keep up with the demands for ice. It tastes so much better using our good water.\n  We have used this tons the last 2 months and it has held up nicely. The boys are happy with all the ice and being able to use as much as they like without running out! This will pay for itself in less than a year with how much ice they like to use!\nI understand that the 1-5 star rating is to help both buyers and sellers. Here is a breakdown of how my 1-5 ratings are determined:\n 5-star rating that means that I truly love that product and it has features that put it above and beyond what would normally be expected, and it is something that wowed me and I am truly glad I purchased it and would purchase it again. Also I recommend it to everyone and anyone!\n\n4-star ratings are items that do exactly as would be expected of the item, is of very good quality, but does not stand out significantly in any way unless I specifically state why it stands out. But all in all, this item is a solid item and is still highly recommended. It just didn't have the wow factor that my 5 star ratings would have had.\n3-star ratings are given on items because my feeling about the product is neutral. I do not consider it a negative, but it just did not wow me, or there is nothing of great significance.\n1 or 2-star ratings are rarely given unless the item is completely worthless and not worth the money, and I am only giving that rating as a warning to others. Some items have received lower ratings because of the way they were made or put together, and it is getting that review because of the quality of the item, which is specifically described in my review. It has to be pretty bad to get these ratings from me!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3081, "id": 195789, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 466, "len_tokens": 564, "text": "Bought this as a replacement for my Haier HLP140E dryer which was making some horrific noises after 5+ years of use. I like the clear window in the Panda so you know your load is tossing as it should to dry evenly. You just have to watch how far you turn the timer knob, depending on what type of drying cycle you're selecting...it's easy to overshoot.\n\nRegarding the chemical smell some reviewers are concerned about...I experienced the exact same issue with the Haier model dryer at first. It's a common issue with a lot of new tumble dryers, even full-sized. Manufacturers typically coat the internal moving parts with a thin layer of oil so they don't oxidize while sitting in shipping containers and warehouses with no climate control. This accounts for the unfortunate \"skunkish\" smell infusing your clothes upon initial use.\n\nI just ran my first loads through the Panda and all of my clothes now have that familiar odor again. Febreezing all of them until the odor leaves the dryer is about all I know to do.\n\nThe only real solution is time and repeated use. With the Haier, the smell eventually disappeared after a few weeks of use. Perhaps if you have the inclination between your laundry days, you can run your dryer empty on the hottest cycle for several hours to help the odor wear off faster. Just make sure you're exhausting it to the outdoors.\n\nOverall, I like the Panda so far. As long as things like replacement belts and filters are easily available, it should prove to be well worth the investment. As far as I'm concerned, any minor inconveniences that go along with a small apartment dryer like this are nothing compared to the prospect of having to use a community laundry facility.\n\n3/12/2017 UPDATE: I cannot guarantee this will work for everyone, but I had some success in eliminating the chemical odor within a couple of days. First, I took a clean, dry dishcloth and doused it in distilled white vinegar, wrung it out damp, and tossed it alone in the dryer on the hottest part of the cycle (the red area of the dial between 120 and 200 minutes) for about 4 hours (resetting it every 80 minutes or so). The next day, I Febreezed the same dishcloth and tossed it on the hottest cycle for another 2-3 hours to help dissipate the vinegar smell. Then, when re-washing the clothes that had already absorbed the odor from the first use, I added some of those scent booster pellets you find in the laundry supply aisle to each washer load. After going through the dryer again, there was no trace of that putrid chemical odor in the clothes anymore. Just thought it was worth sharing. Good luck, everyone!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3082, "id": 301166, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 397, "len_tokens": 537, "text": "I purchased the LG WM3997 a couple of months ago for our new home, which is space-limited, we liked not having to use 220, and didn't want to install a vent. When we first installed the machine, we only had cold water, as the house is still under construction, and the hot water was not yet installed. During that time, I did notice that many things were not dry, particularly in loads of mixed types of laundry (i.e. the jeans would be dry but the t-shirts were still quite damp). We tried putting the drain lower, into a bucket, rather than near the top of the washer, as suggested in other posts. That helped, but did not solve the problem. After connecting the hot water and leaving it turned on, even during cold-water washing, things are much more consistently dry, even while keeping the drain at the height of the washer. For some reason, the hot water seems to be required.\n\nI really like being able to wash & dry without having to go switch things from the washer to the dryer! I often use the \"Fresh Care\" feature, which tumbles the clothes occasionally if you don't catch them just after they dry cycle completes. I do use liquid fabric softener, rather than dryer sheets, because I am not stopping it between cycles. In my dry climate, I really need the fabric softener, which keeps the static out of my laundry. In the summer, I will often put most of the clothes outside on the line, and the washer does allow me to stop without drying.\n\nI'm keeping this at four stars, because I don't like the problem of lint around the rubber gasket at the front of the machine. After almost every load, I need to wipe it out with a wet paper towel. I've not yet found a solution to this problem.\n\nI have this machine installed in combination with the&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/O3-Pure-Professional-Eco-Laundry-Ozone-Washer-System-Newest-Generation-and-the-Most-Powerful-on-the-market/dp/B00AUWTYN2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">O3 Pure Professional Eco Laundry Ozone Washer System - Newest Generation and the Most Powerful on the market</a>, which allows me to do all my washing with cold water and little or no detergent.\n\nThe machine arrived on time in our remote location, and the shippers communicated appropriately to let us know when to expect it. Purchased from Home Care Company. The water supply lines were included with this washer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3083, "id": 214748, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 426, "len_tokens": 528, "text": "Like another reviewer, I purchased this item for its looks and supposed 840 CFM fan, but besides not adequately fitting a 8ft ceiling without some modifications (unit can only be mounted at minimum recommended height), it does not work as expected.  It barely sucks up any smoke, except perhaps any coming from burners directly below the inlets.  Smoke from burners in the periphery mostly goes around the hood.  I don't think this unit is truly sucking air at the rated CFM, or if it is, it perhaps does so only without the charcoal filters (i.e., venting unit to outside).\n\nThe expanding drywall mounting hangers provided are practically useless since the screws provided for them are so large that when attempting to screw them into the hangers, the latter loosen their hold on the ceiling and then just spin.  I had to use 4 heavier duty anchor butterfly type hangers instead of the provided hardware.  Even then, I'm afraid that an inadvertent bump on the unit could send it crashing down (ergo: should really install wood braces between the ceiling joists and hang from those instead).\n\nAnother problem is the recommended height, which is listed as 650mm to 700mm off the cooktop.  That is roughly 25.5 to 27.5 inches.  Even at the higher limit, but, of course, more so at the lower height, the angled glass ends are just low enough to hit you on the head when approaching the cooktop if such is not far into the island (more than 4 or 5 inches), which ours is not.  Thus, until we raise the unit to a safer height, which we plan to do with much dreaded, needed adjustments, we need to be careful!\n\nAlthough the unit looks great, I'm very disappointed with its lack of practical performance, which is not any better than my old, cheap, over-the-stove vent fan. I will be contacting the vendor to inquire on what could be wrong or see if they offer to replace the fan, or what.  Stay tuned...\n\nOne final note.  The unit comes with a charcoal filter for inside venting, but not being completely sure of this (the description wasn't clear on it), I ordered one separately.  However, it seems like the vendor tried to pull a fast one on me by not initially shipping the additional filter purchased with the excuse that they \"some times put it inside the box,\" which seems like a lot of hogwash since the unit had a spot in the packaging for the filter and the box was sealed.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3084, "id": 404866, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 452, "len_tokens": 517, "text": "I got this to replace my Hamilton Beach Ice Maker that is now taking up space in my trash. I gather these things tend to fail and I will update my review accordingly if that happens within the next couple years. For now, here are my thoughts.\n\nThis is bigger than the ice maker that it was replacing and comes at the same price. You can see the attached images for size comparison. It appears to hold about twice as much ice, twice as much water, and makes much larger ice cubes in about the same amount of time. Obviously it takes up more counter space, also, but still fits quite comfortably on the counter.\n\nI like that it has a timer function. I'm a bit disappointed that it isn't a timer you set like you would a light timer. You can basically set it to delay for a certain amount of time. Instead you set it for a certain delay. So it appears you need to set it each night to turn on the next morning. I get up an hour before everyone else and try to remember to turn on our ice maker so there is plenty of ice ready and waiting when needed. My forgetter works really well though, so I will forget from time to time. I thought the timer function would be helpful, and it still might be, but I will probably prove just as adept at forgetting to set a timer each night as I am at forgetting to turn the thing on every morning.\n\nThis leaves the ice cube size as my favorite thing. It is a common complaint with the hollow-bullet-shaped ice cubes that they melt very quickly. These are also hollow-bullet-shaped, but would be bullets for a much larger gun, so they seem to last longer. There are three options for sizes on this unit. If you're like I used to be before I broke a tooth and you like chewing ice, use the small setting. If not, choose the large setting. I don't know who the medium setting is for.\n\nWhile longevity will be the key, I greatly prefer this unit, at least initially, to the last one. It's nearly the same price and we will spend a lot less time fetching ice and refilling the water reservoir.\n\nI didn't receive jack for this review. Even if I had, I'm too big of a fan of honesty to let some jerk manipulate my review by giving me free stuff. The review written above represents my honest, unfiltered opinion of the product.\n\nP.S. It's not blue. I just left the stainless steel protector film stuff on it until I got it in place.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3085, "id": 101542, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 418, "len_tokens": 501, "text": "I upgraded from the standard freezer on top and no water dispenser or ice maker and this review is coming from that perspective.\n\nWe bought this fridge because of the dimensions that fit our space.  We couldn't get the standard 35 3/4 in width fridge.  We looked at LG and the thing I like about this fridge is the internal water dispenser.  It means that you do not need to lose any interior space.  I'm glad I didn't get the LG because the loss of door space would have been a problem. The ice maker is in the freezer (no crushed ice) and works fast.  It makes 100 cubes a day.\n\nThe interior space seems to be the same actual space as the old fridge but there are many configuration options making better use of the space, possibly.  Not sure if it really makes a difference.\n\nThe thing I like the most is the fact that I do not need to bend down to see what's in the fridge.\n\nA few other things that I'd like to mention because I have seen them in other reviews:\nNoise: More than a fridge without an ice maker not really noticeable.\nEnergy efficiency: Seems OK.\nStainless steel: Get the stainless steel spray cleaner (not the wipes).  Does a great job keeping the prints off.\nIce maker: Cranks out the ice.  Once I think the there-is-enough-ice sensor didn't detect that the ice was full.  You can turn off the ice maker so no biggie.\nWater dispenser: It has an easy to change filter accessible inside the fridge.  Water tastes excellent.  The first gallon or so had a plastic taste (I also used a plastic water line) but it went away.  I hear this is common.\nFreezer drawers: There are three.  It seems ok.  Very different from the old top freezer.  I like it but it makes you pack more efficiently so you can slide the drawers.  This tends to force you to pay attention to what you have in the freezer rather than just tightly packing it in like in the old days.\n\nOverall I am very happy with the fridge and would recommend it to anyone.  I realized that after I bought the fridge that there was a model with an external water dispenser that doesn't take any space away from the interior (ice maker is still in the freezer). Had this been available when I bought it, I may have opted for it.  Still I have no regrets.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3086, "id": 166615, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 419, "len_tokens": 504, "text": "We bought this dishwasher to replace our ten-year-old Whirlpool, which never really cleaned well and which finally quit draining.  The most frustrating thing about it was the frequency with which it re-deposited food inside glasses.  My first choice was a Maytag with a hard food grinder, a filter, and steam, but it was not readily available in our area.  Having read the negative reviews about this less expensive dishwasher, we bought it with some trepidation.\n\nAfter using it for several weeks, I love it.  Our dishes come out not just clean but sparkling.  Because it has been years since I used a drying cycle, I do not miss heated drying at all.  I used to open the door of the Whirlpool at the end of the wash cycle, but this Bosch gets most of the dishes dry even with the door closed.  Although Bosch recommends using the auto cycle with the sanitize option to get the best drying, I have found that the auto cycle works well alone.  And even though I will follow Bosch's insistence that a rinse agent be used, I didn't notice any difference when I ran out of rinse agent.\n\nOne of the features I like is that the filter and the spray arms can be removed easily if they become clogged.  This was not the case with our Whirlpool, and I often had to poke long pipe cleaners into one of the spray arms to clean it.\n\nAlthough I do not find this machine too small for our household of four adults, I do agree that the loading is awkward.  The pictures in the manual assume that you are washing a number of complete place settings, but few people do that.  We are simply loading dishes where they fit.  However, if you have children who load for you, this machine might pose problems.\n\nI do not miss rinse and hold or a short cycle as I seldom used them with previous dishwashers.  Although the cycles are somewhat longer than those on our Whirlpool, I have not found them inconvenient.\n\nPeople seem to love this dishwasher or hate it, and even those people who like it report success with different cycles or amounts of detergent.  I suspect that variations in households, including water hardness, account for some of these differences.\n\nIn short, if you do not want or need the extra cycles or heated drying and you don't have children helping, I would not hesitate to recommend this Ascenta.  (And, yes, it is super quiet!)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3087, "id": 166346, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 494, "len_tokens": 584, "text": "The device was delivered quickly and then sat on my kitchen island for 3 weeks.  On the third Sunday I had grown weary of my lovely Wife threatening to turn off the tap to another beloved kitchen appliance, if you know what I mean.  So I was properly motivated.  It took longer to charge my battery drill than it took to take off the panels and install the solenoid valve and put it all back together.  And whalla!  still no water.\n\nSince my knees were sore and I had just opened a fresh beer I decided to sit on the sofa and do more research/watch the rest of the troubleshooting video.  After another round I came to the conclusion that it was a frozen water line inside the door.  Since there were no instruction for disassembling the door and knowing I was down to my last few beers I proceeded with a sense of urgent caution.  I removed the easy to get to screws and began removing the cowling on the inside of the door around the ice dispenser.  After balancing more baby ice packs than I knew could fit on bags of expired frozen peas and left over venison hamburger, I found the culprit!  A fist size ice burg hiding in the ice shoot cowling.  It must have survived by being hidden from view and reach of the knives and wooden spoons I use to clear out the numerous ice jams from my Wife's fetish for crushed ice in her drinks.\n\nI pitched the ice burg into the sink, quickly reassembled the cowling, stowed the baby ice packs, peas and venison in the trash.  With no time to waist, and the water line still frozen inside the door and I was down to my last adult malted beverage I had to work fast.\n\nI turned on the hot water in the kitchen sink and gave out a loud verbal warning to my Wife and two daughters who instinctively run there hands under any running water regardless of the amount of steam being generated.  Then using tongs, I took a kitchen towel placed it in the stream of super heated water for long enough for it to be used to melt granite.  I then placed the large Pyrex measuring bowl, which I have had for 10 years just waiting for any reason to use, in the water receiving area of the refrigerator door.\n\nI then jabbed the steaming hot towel into the ice shoot, turned on the ice dispenser light and shut the door.  After I finished my last and final beer I opened the door, took out the towel and tested the water dispenser.  Clear Cold water was flowing purer than a rivers in a Coor's beer commercial.  HAPPY DAYS!!  My two year old walked up gave me her 1 second look of approval and said, \"Daddy your my hero.\" Then she went back to watching Dora the Explorer.  Mission accomplished.  Daddy out!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3088, "id": 269746, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 493, "len_tokens": 586, "text": "My guess is the new metal reinforced arms is potentially a double edge sword.  They fit very snugly and you need to tap them on with a hammer. I found that a 3/8 inch ratchet extension turned backwards fits the diameter of the metal collar just fine. I was pretty cautious so it took me about a minute or so to slowly mount each of the arms separately to both the motor arm and the transmission drive arm under the clothes basket until they were flush with the drive arms .  I placed the rubber grommet/coupler on the drive arm under the clothes basket and then lined up the holes with the male pins of the coupler on the motor arm.  This is where it gets a little tricky/ frustrating because you have to keep the two sides of the coupler aligned as you try to push the motor/coupler half onto the other half of the coupler that is mounted on the transmission arm so that the pins from one half of the coupler (mounted on motor arm) align and slide into the holes of the other half of the coupler (mounted on the transmission arm).  It takes several attempts and some swearing and the motor is quite heavy to have to hold steady and keep aligned. Okay so finally all assembled and everything works great. Now my concern is any future replacement that is necessary.  The rubber grommet that comes with these couplers is not the reinforced kind which I prefer and had on previously. The rubber ones are pretty much worthless and will breakdown in  1 to 3 years. The reinforced one I had on has been on for years. And since the holes were a bit worn and I misplaced it I used the cheaper unreinforced rubber one that came with the kit. If the new metal reinforced arms last a long time, not so bad because then you only need to replace the rubber grommet,  But if the plastic coupler arms break its going to be a be-actch to get them off the drives arms cuz they are pretty snug and can't get a lot of leverage especially with the side mounted under the clothes basket.  At least the motor/side  can be removed for easier access. You might almost need like a gear puller.  I lubricated the drive arms with grease to avoid the complication of rust seizure later on. I guess my last, all-plastic coupler with the reinforced rubber grommet lasted a long time.  Therefore I think the ideal coupler would be the all plastic arms with the reinforced grommet. It will last a long time and be easy to replace compared to the metal reinforced coupler. I would say I got 10 or 15 years out of the reinforced grommetkit, maybe more.  Other wise this kit worked fine and you get 2 for the price of one.  Just good luck removing the first one that breaks.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3089, "id": 110636, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 455, "len_tokens": 542, "text": "Our 10-year-old GE Nautilus dishwasher recently got sluggish in starting -- no water coming in, motor not moving. An experienced maintenance guy suggested that we turn off the power, remove the kickplate, and manually spin the motor to get it\nstarted, and if that action no longer worked it was time to replace the dishwasher.\n\nIt worked for a few tries, then no more. I searched online, and read that these GE dishwashers are generally long-lasting, except for the pump-and-motor-assemblies, and our dishwasher's symptoms matched the descriptions for pump/motor assembly failure. We found this new replacement kit on Amazon for just under $90 (compared to $350+ for a new similar dishwasher), and decided to give it a try.\n\nInstalling the assembly was actually easy: two screws, four clamps, two electrical harness plugs -- just remove the old and insert the new. The instruction sheet is a diagram of the different configurations one might encounter in older dishwashers. Ours visually matched the \"A\" diagram on the sheet. Tools needed were a Phillips screwdriver and a regular flat screwdriver, a socket wrench for one small screw that did not have a screwdriver slot, and a pair of pliers for the two smaller hose clamps in the assembly. I also used an adjustable wrench to disconnect the water supply below the sink -- necessary in our installation in order to pull out the machine -- and to raise the front feet on the dishwasher before pulling it out from under the counter. (Some installations may not require either of those actions.)\n\nGetting the dishwasher in and out of its slot under the counter was far more difficult than the pump / motor assembly replacement. But even that was easier than installing a new dishwasher. Once the dishwasher was out in the floor, I turned it upside down for ease of access to the pump / motor assembly. I highly recommend doing that.\n\nWhen I removed the old pump/motor assembly, I discovered that the discharge end of its shaft was completely bound up in fine blonde hair and solidified detergent. Since none of our family have had blonde hair in the seven years we've owned this house and its dishwasher, we speculate that maybe the previous blonde owner washed her hairbrush in the dishwasher. I pulled all the gunk out of the assembly, and figure that it may actually be OK now. At least I won't throw it away immediately. But the new assembly is running just fine in the machine.\n\nI highly recommend this repair, since it costs so much less than a new machine, and can be accomplished by any person with basic skills using typical screwdrivers, pliers, and wrenches -- no specialist knowledge or tools needed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3090, "id": 537774, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 459, "len_tokens": 538, "text": "Ok everyone, let me first tell you that I'm not one who normally writes reviews, good or bad, but this is important and needs to be told. If you read the customer review from June 2018 on this very page, I have the SAME EXACT PROBLEM. I purchased this fridge in July of 2016 and this unit worked fine for the first 13 months of ownership. Now, after twelve months- yes, 1 year-of attempts to fix this unit with main PCB boards. sensors etc., it still will not go 1 week without the temperature in fridge compartment residing in the low to mid 40's for a day or two. Not good for your food storage needs. Do you want to be giving your kids spoiled milk, totally unaware you are doing so?\nThe fact that I read a review of this product with the same exact problem coupled with the fact that LG has been throwing money in parts and labor for so long without being able to correct the problem leads me to believe that it is a design flaw with the air circulation in this particular model and quite possibly other models of theirs.\nThis unit gets very good reviews from most places- especially Consumer Reports- which I am a long long time reader of and completely trust them. But, I'm sure that they don't test refrigerators for a year, and their initial findings were probably very good just like mine were. So, all you young families out there and those considering LG refrigerators for their kitchen remodel, unless you want to monitor temps constantly(or manually defrost it by shutting it down for a couple days which will yield good results for a few months, another \"tell\" of a design flaw since there has never been any ice build-up behind freezer back panel-this is something you should not have to do with a new fridge), I would STRONGLY advise looking at different brands.\nFace it, you read these reviews for a reason. Because of this ongoing problem, I periodically check posts and reviews. After reading the June 2018 persons review, I felt I had to share my experiences and insight. I have nothing against LG products, and this is not a knee-jerk reaction about this fridge. Its been ongoing since August 2017, and to LG's credit they have covered the cost of all labor and parts to this point( it was one month after their standard 1 year warranty expired). Plus, they are probably going to replace this unit with a new one. Unfortunately, after all this, I'm not all that excited about getting the same one. I wonder how many more are out there with this same problem.\nThanks for reading.\nTo be continued.....", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3091, "id": 283674, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 439, "len_tokens": 526, "text": "Have a vacation place where the fridge doesn't have an ice maker.  For years we lived with the pain of ice trays.  So figured we'd give this unit a try.  It is really simple to use - you lift out the basket which catches the ice, and fill the reservoir with water - up to the point where the plastic level changes.  Put the basket back it, and turn it on.\n\nYou have two choices of ice size - I chose large, which is about the size of a large finger tip.  It would take about 12 minutes to make a batch of ice, and will continue until the ice basket is full or it runs out of water.  If either of these occurs, it will light an indicator.\n\nThe ice is hollow in the center and damp when made.  This is because it works by creating a dam which it fills with water and then lowers the refrigerated \"fingers\" into the water which the ice forms on.  When the time is up, the remaining water goes back into the reservoir, and the cubes drop into the basket.\n\nThe unit itself is not refrigerated.  It is insulated and stays cool while making ice because of the refrigerated fingers.  But the ice will melt with the water going back into the reservoir if you don't take it out.\n\nBecause the cubes are damp, if you move them to your freezer, they will freeze to each other.  We would fill 1 gallon freezer ziplock bags with the ice.  When we wanted ice we would bang the bag onto the counter top to separate the cubes.\n\nHow well did this work?  We never ran out of ice while our place had 12 people with the outside temperatures in the 90s with 90% humidity.  It can make over 20lbs a day.  We would run as needed to keep about 4 of the gallon bags full (probably 10lbs)\n\nYou can hear the fan if you are near it.  You can hear the water pump and the dumping of the ice too.  So it is not silent.  We did not mind.  It became a running joke for someone to say - \"ice is ready\" when we would hear it dump another load.\n\nIt does come with a little plastic ice scoop which you can use to scoop the ice out the basket if you want to fill a glass directly.  Also, if you like to chew ice (sorry ADA) by being hollow in the middle they crunch pretty easily.\n\nNext to a new king size mattress, this was the best purchase for the vacation house.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3092, "id": 211292, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 441, "len_tokens": 514, "text": "I live in a very small studio apartment in the downtown area of a great historic town here in the US. I moved there from a typical apartment in a suburban setting and the one thing I really missed was being able to wash my clothes in my apartment (going to the laundromat once every week or two got a bit tiring after a while). A friend recommended getting a portable washer, so I chose this. Love it! Though I do agree with what everyone else seems to be saying. You WILL have to micromanage a few things, and though it cleans quickly, you still have to be patient with it.\n\nPros:\n1) Small, fits easily in a small apartment\n2) Quiet (I personally don't worry at all about neighbors below hearing it).\n3) Powerful, cleans clothes very quickly. Can come home, do a small load (generally every two days for a single guy, though you can re-use water for multiple loads if you want to be sustainable)\n4) Spin dryer takes soaking clothes and makes them dry enough to hang and be fully dry in a few hours (3-4, though I go ahead and just leave them up overnight if on a weekday).\n\nOne Thing to Note (not really a con for me):\nThe drain is a little finicky for me. It's actually the part of the process that takes the most time, I think. At first I thought it wasn't draining, because no water was coming consistently out of the pipe. What really seems to be happening is it'll appear to stop for a short while (a minute or so) to work the air out of the tank (you can see the bubbles in the tube). Once the air has been removed from the tank, the water shoots out at a fairly steady stream, until it has to stop again to remove air. Be patient and it should remove all water from the tank, just make sure the hose extends up (at least up to sink height in the bathroom or kitchen). Any lower (like below a foot) and you may have issues, because water won't back up to the tank, which I think you want in order to get it to force all the water out. Could be wrong though, this is just my experience. I'll continue monitoring it and report any further issues.\n\nI'll update this review as I gain more experience using it. I totally would recommend it, but only if you don't mind doing a little extra work. It still beats doing it by hand or driving to laundromat.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3093, "id": 260402, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 502, "len_tokens": 586, "text": "I purchased this product feeling I was taking a bit of a gamble since comparable performance in better known brands is about twice the price.\n\nWhen the unit arrived I quickly unpacked it and plugged it in to see how it worked since I didn't have a good idea of what Sones and CFM actually sounded and felt like.  I can tell you that 1200CFM is a lot of air movement, it cooled my whole house down after running for a couple of minutes.  The sound you hear is air too and not motor sound so the way I see that it is as quiet as can be.  The only thing that could make it quieter might be engineering the airflow differently.\n\nUnfortunately on the lowest speed settings I could here the fan rubbing against something internally.  I called the company and they noted the condition but asked me to poke around and see if there was something that was dented or came loose during shipping.  I said that there were some dents and a loose screw rattling around in the enclosure.  Most of the construction is riveted so not a lot can be taken apart and put back together.  I think each fan comes out as a unit but cannot be disassembled itself most likely (I didn't want to try and end up damaging anything myself).  They sent a fedex pickup to get the defective unit and shipped out a new one.  The new one has no rattle and works fine after a quick test.  the outside of the housing is still dented a bit in the same location but it is in an area that will be enclosed and not seen.  I think this is a design/tolerance issue with the manufacturer.  I was a little perturbed that I was asked to actually see if I could \"fix\" a defective product and wasn't offered a discount or anything, but it wasn't that big of a deal.\n\nThe unit seems like it is built cheap, but also strong.  The lady on the phone said that in all her years at the company they had only had one warrantied motor replacement and that it was probably the owners fault due to inadequate lightning protection or something.  The part of the unit that will be seen is very nice.  The lights are very bright as well.  I'm not sure how easy they will be to replace though.  I kinda wish there were different light settings since they are so bright.  I am slightly concerned with the amount of electronics inside the unit.  It's just more stuff that can potentially break, but only time will tell.  The time delay feature seems like it could be nice since we often like to leave the range on immediately after cooking, but don't need it on during the entire meal.\n\nHope my review was helpful.  I thought I would be as thorough as possible since there are no reviews on this product.  All in all, buy it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3094, "id": 296980, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 454, "len_tokens": 553, "text": "Excellent for my small apartment. I just set it up in the bathroom where I can hook the hose up to my sink. However, I used a bucket to draw water from the tube because it would take over an hour to fill just using the plastic hose.\n\nThe lint trap needs major improvement; it hardly catches any lint.\n\nTo keep the lint from adhering to my clothes and to keep it from catching in the machinery of the draining apparatus of the machine, I use an aquarium fish net to catch free floating lint.\n  At first, I purchased a small aquarium fish net. It wasn't big enough, so I bought the largest size.\n\nAs the load agitates, I hold the aquarium fish net against the side of the tub in the water and catch an amazingly large quantity of lint--cat hair, fabric pile, and fiber--for a 10 lb. load, sometimes up to a cup--I use the \"white water\" for cleaning the toilet and other household uses. I like conserving resources.\n\nI use a minuscule amount of detergent and ammonia to clean protein, blood, chocolate, coffee stains. If the suds get out of hand even with a small quantity of laundry soap, baking soda helps to 'tame the suds, acts as a softener and freshens the clean clothes.\n\nThe I rinse with a cup or two of cleaning vinegar, depending on the size of the load. Vinegar grabs the detergent from the clothes and zaps residue right out of the clothes.\n\nWhen done, my clothes smell like they been dried outside in the fresh air.\n\nNote: When washing, I always use the \"heavy setting\" since it's actually easier on the gears in the machine. The \"heavy setting\" just means it spins in one direction longer(--and, I figure, the fewer times it has to bring itself to a full stop and change directions, the longer the parts will last).\n\nThe drain pump does not push the last bit of water out of the basin of the machine. This worries me; I worry the parts will rust. However, I keep the lids open for at least 48 hrs after use hoping what moisture remains in the basin will dry. If condensation collects on the lids thereafter, I open the lids until no condensation collects.\n\nBecause I have so much control over the process, I wonder if I don't have cleaner clothes than one gets with a regular washer.\n\nI absolutely love not having to take my clothes to a laundry mat, and I don't mind air drying. I have a professional steamer (Jiffy) so I never have wrinkled clothes. My 'towels are stiff, but, it's good for exfoliation and blood stimulation of the skin.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3095, "id": 301090, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 505, "len_tokens": 575, "text": "I bought a washing machine (Model WT1101CW) in July of 2014. I bought the product new and it was used by one person during the length of that time. It recently gave me an LE error. I had the product looked at by a technician and he diagnosed the problem as being an electronic control board or wiring harness. Fixing these problems would have costed me $350, very closely resembling the cost of a brand-new washing machine.\nI called LG customer service to inquire about why the machine, only being 3-years old, would require such extensive repairs. I wondered if LG only expects their products to last 3 years for a single user, to which they did not have a good answer. I spoke with an agent who ensured me they would take care of the problem. The agent initiated and an extended warranty on my product stating, It will be no cost to you for the warranty and it will cover all the necessary repairs to your machine. He instructed me to wait to hear from a representative to complete the process. I never received a phone call but did, however receive an email stating, We apologized that you are having problem with you washer. After reviewing the case the washer is too far out of warranty for assistance. Not only was this a surprise to me but also the grammar was that of a grade school student. Simply not professional or adequate for such a large company.\nI called to follow up about this email thinking it was an auto-reply and that we could work together to resolve my issue. I spoke with Erica (ID: 10255) from the Extended Service Team and she instructed me that they would not be able to fix the product. She could not have been less empathetic to my plight. She was a cold stone wall that did not care about the customer at all. I have nothing good to say about their customer service. So, after a week of hassling with their customer service department, I have nothing to show for it but an appliance which lasted a single user only 3 years. I was told by an employee at LG that the problem would be fixed and they did not keep to their word. Do not trust anything they tell you.  They have no problem breaking promises to their customers.  The bottom line is the only thing that matters to them.\n I had planned on replacing all my kitchen appliances with LG products valued at over $3500. I know many individuals in General Contracting and will be advising them of my experience with LG and their customer service.  LG has lost life time of revenue from this customer and everyone I know; albeit over a service call which would have costed them less than $350.\nPlease let this serve as your warning for doing business with LG; a company which lacks empathy for their customers and has wrongly misplaced their core values in their bottom line.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3096, "id": 87263, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3097, "id": 88647, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3098, "id": 88183, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3099, "id": 478398, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 406, "len_tokens": 524, "text": "Two years after purchasing Bosch's \"stainless\" steel \"rust-free\" dishwasher with a \"lifetime warranty\" against rust, we discovered... rust. It was in a very specific area, where the metal filter attaches to the interior tub. We called Bosch and were told that it was our fault, that it was our water, our dishwasher soap, our flatware--anything but the dishwasher. We persisted, explaining that we use a water softener and a reverse-osmosis system and that our water is no worse, and probably a bit better, than average. Furthermore, if it was merely our water, then we would expect to see rust everywhere. As for our dishwasher soap--well--it comes from Costco, and I'm sure they'd take exception to Bosch's claim that it promotes rust. We offered our own theory, which is that the metal used in the filter is disimilar to the metal in the tub, resulting in a galvanic reaction and corrosion to the metals. Basically, the two different metals, pressed together in an aqueous environment, results in a battery. But for Bosch to admit this would be to admit a design flaw--the sort of admission that leads to a class-action lawsuit. We already know Bosch uses a variety of \"stainless\" metals. For example, the metal used on the door is a very inferior grade of stainless steel that is easily streaked and spotted. And the way you can tell is to use a magnet. If the magnet sticks then it's ferrous metal and more prone to staining.\n\nThis section is taken right out of the manual: \"Stainless Steel TallTub: A rust-free, hygienic interior surface with a lifetime warranty.\"\n\nYet Bosch claims they don't actually guarantee the tub to be rust-free; they only warrant against \"rust-through\", meaning you will have to live with the rust until it eats a hole through the metal--until water starts pouring into some part of the dishwasher where it doesn't belong (hopefully not endangering you, your family, or your home, in the process). When you consider that Bosch basically expects you to use their rusting appliance until there's a catastrophic failure, you realize that the advertisements, selling points, and sales pitches regarding \"rust-free\" and \"lifetime warranty\" are all fraudulent.\n\nBosch offered no remedies and suggested that the rust can be removed (on our dime, of course). The problem is that even if we use a rust-removing product, the rust will return in time, because the source of the rust--a design flaw--remains.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3100, "id": 9247, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 415, "len_tokens": 529, "text": "Why didn't I buy this sooner??  This washer spins so well that even towels I wash in the evening are dry before I go to bed (I hang them and have a fan on them).  The washer holds plenty and runs incredibly quietly.  Loads that do retain more water after draining--towels/sweaters--do tend to make the first spin cycle a little loud (medium hum sound).  However, the initial spin is less than 10 seconds, so about the time I notice that the washer is making more sound than normal, it's over.\n\nSome the reviews mentioning placing the bottom tray 'convex/concave' were confusing to me.  They may be clear to others, but I wasn't sure what the convex/concave was in reference to (me as I'm installing the tray with the washer on its side, or in reference to the washer when it's upright??), so here's what worked for me:  install the tray so that it sets like it should catch water (like the drip pan under your refrigerator) when the washer is upright.  Of course, with the holes in it, it isn't really a drip-pan, but hopefully this is easier to understand.\n\nI found the 'quick connect' thing that was included with my washer kept leaking at the sink connection (I really had to make the connection at the washer tight to stop leaks there).  I went to Home Depot and got a new connector for the sink for eight bucks & haven't had a problem since.  I also tied both the hose & drain hoses together with velcro ties so they hang together in the sink.  When I'm not using the hoses, I then use the velcro ties to hang the hoses on a hook on the wall.\n\nI do love my Downy ball, but I think it makes alot of noise in this washer as it floats & rubs against the steel washer basin, so I just add the softener directly to the final rinse (there are 2 rinse cycles).\n\nAs another reviewer said--- the lint filter is incredible.  I didn't think that little thing would catch much, but I really do have to empty it after every 1-3 washes.\n\nIf you're doing your laundry at a laundromat, save your money and time.  This little washer is fantastic.  I'm a laundry freak---I love doing laundry and I'm very picky about where/how it's done.  Not to mention the safety concern in public laundromats.  This washer is worth its weight in gold.  Really.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3101, "id": 340995, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 410, "len_tokens": 529, "text": "If you are looking through these reviews trying to find out if a Speed Queen is worth the money, in my family's case, we should have bought one years ago.  We tried an LG front load, and while it did okay, I repaired it a good bit, and the smell was an issue within months of using it new, even with leaving the door open.  When the motor finally died, we decided to try a top-load again.  We have a farm, and I handle all repairs in the evenings and weekends...vehicles, equipment, welding, plumbing, electrical, carpentry, etc.  My clothing reflects I am doing dirty work.  On the other hand, the wife and I have office jobs during the week, and need our work clothes clean.  So we bought a Whirlpool Cabrio since it was one of the few that offered a deep water option, and we started this year as our second year with it.  No matter what we did, soaps, settings, etc, the clothes smelled musty, anything heavy (canvas work pants, blanket, 1 pair overalls) made the machine throw an off-balance code, and the \"heavy-duty\" cycle was 78 minutes long...my wife was recently crying over her war with the laundry, so we took a SUV full to the laundromat and washed and dried EVERYTHING in 2 hours.  Watching those machines blow through a heavy duty cycle in 18 minutes (and my wife's tears) made me determined to \"fix it\", and research led to Speed Queen.  We are on our 2nd day of ownership, and its amazing...the heavy duty cycle is about 35 minutes.  With the quick wash, we did three loads in the time it took to do one in the Cabrio....we even re-washed damp loads that were done with the Cabrio, and the Speed Queen made the water dirty with the extra dirt it pulled out of just-washed, damp clothes from the Cabrio!  My wife is smiling over the fresh, clean smelling laundry, and that the Speed Queen just does not care if its washing heavy things...it's going to get them done.  Easily worth the price, considering the Cabrio barely a $100 less when we bought it new, and it gets the clothes done.  The smaller drum is not an issue, as it does the loads faster, and clean the first time.  If you are sick of the HE propaganda, and you actually do things that make you sweat or get dirty, this is the washer for you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3102, "id": 57800, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 450, "len_tokens": 533, "text": "My dryer vents are very long and were clogged all the way through. I figured I would have to replace the vent since it was so full of lint. I tried this product on a whim, just to see if I could save the time and money of replacing the vent. I'm glad to say that this was the best $26 (and change) that I've ever spent on ANYTHING. This product WORKS! But you must follow the directions TO THE LETTER otherwise it will not work and cause you a lot of grief and aggrevation.\n\nThe trick (as detailed in the directions) is to duct tape each of the extenders when you're adding them on. NEVER run your drill counter-clockwise, and go VERY slowly. If you think you can put all four extenders on and shove this in your vent and clean it in one shot - think again. Go SLOW and EASY. Take your time. The lint will come out. It's real simple to determine when you've reached a point of blockage. The extender will start to bend. Twist the brush for a couple of seconds, then pull it out (keep the drill on - let it do the work). Then put it back in, and repeat for as long as it takes.\n\nYou will need a 3/8\" or larger drill. A smaller drill won't work. I highly suggest a variable speed drill, as most of the time you want to go slow at first until you're certain the blockage has been removed, then you can go ahead and turn it on all the way.\n\nBut be VERY careful, especially if there is a bend in the vent pipe. The extenders can twist on you and it will break if you are not careful. But by following the directions, taking your time, and going slow and easy - this product does work, it will clean the vent and you'll save your self a lot of time and money by doing the work yourself and not hiring anybody to do the work or replacing clogged vent pipe.\n\nA suggestion is to have a second person help you steady the extenders while inserting and removing them from the vent, especially when the vent pipe has bends in it. But if the pipe is straight and short, a single person can do it by themselves. Start with one extender, then work up to two, then three, and if needed, all four. But like I said above - do NOT use all four at once to start with. It simply will NOT work.\n\nBottom line - Follow the directions, duct tape the extenders together when needed, and take your time. It works!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3103, "id": 111245, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 500, "len_tokens": 595, "text": "The Keggermeister Kegerator comes packaged in double \"double walled\" boxes with a lot of Styrofoam packaging materials and materials. All of the minor components are neatly organized in a separate box inside of the Kegerator fridge. After removing all the pieces and laying them out, I began to read the instruction manual. The manual content is very clear and concise with well illustrated pictures on the assembly of the unit and pieces.  The box was undamaged in shipping\nAssembly is fairly simple, anyone with basic knowledge of hand tools should have no problem.  It takes about 20-30 minutes to get it put together and running, the one thing I would advise any owner is to take your time and learn the pieces of the dispensing system while you assemble it. This is critical in understanding how everything works in order to be able to trouble shoot any issues should they arise.\nThe unit comes with a 2.5lb C02 tank that I was able to get filled up for less than ten bucks. I recommend a local paint ball shop since they are better equipped to fill this size of tanks up. Welding supply shops also work.\nOnce everything is assembled and it was plugged in it turned right on and gave a silent hum as if to let me know it was on. Even with the compressor cycling on and off it still maintains a very minimal noise level.\n\nAfter allowing the refrigerator to operate with no keg in it for 24 hours I decided to give it a test drive.  The first keg used was a Full Keg of Budlight. After letting the Keg sit and cool in the Kegerator for another 24 hours it was time for the first pour which resulted in nothing but foam.  After doing a bit of trouble shooting I realized I had opened the valve on the C02 tank all the way for max flow. This resulted in over pressurizing the keg. To fix this I closed the valve and adjusted the regulator to having it near closed. I then pulled the pressure release pin on the coupler releasing the built up C02 in the keg.  The next glass I poured came out perfectly - pure golden bliss with a decent layer of foam.\n\nAbout 40 minutes layer I tried to fill up a pitcher of beer and was presented with a near perfect pour.  This was more than enough of evidence that there was a consistent pressure and was at an optimal level for consistent pouring.\nThe exterior has a nice black matte finished that goes well with any dcor. The chrome guardrail and stainless steel spout add a nice touch to the overall exterior of the unit. Cleanup is easy and was simple with just a bit of standard surface cleaner.  I was also able to change out the tap handle with a standard Brewing Company handle.\n\nKeg's that have been run through this unit: Pyramid Hefeweizen, Budlight, Budweiser, Dos Equis", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3104, "id": 372442, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 454, "len_tokens": 592, "text": "Update - 10 months of use.  Awesome refrigerstor.  Works perfect in ny air conditioned garage.  Takes up very little room but holds alot of beverages.  It keeps beverages at 38 degrees easily.  I added 3 cases of sodas and within 8 hours were 38 degrees COLD.\n\nThe GOOD - The DAR110A2LDB appears to be awesome.  It was very easy to  switch the direction the door opens. It also is the perfect size and looks very kewl. Was surprised on solid glass shelving. Nice!  Looks roomy.  I am very impressed.\n\nAt 24 hours run time the refrigeretor was @ 52 degrees\n\nThe Bad - The refrigeretor has been running 48 hours in a 78 degree garage. Nothing has been put inside the refrigerator.  (I am am reluctant to load it with drinks if 52 degrees is as good as it gets) I have a thermometer that was in the old refrigerator. It was calibrated in my kitchen refrigerator. It reads 39 degrees in my kitchen refrigerator.\n.\nThe Ugly - The thermostats dial had been turned almost to max. Temperature had increased to 55 degrees last night around 700PM.\nThis morning the temperature is almost 70.  The accumulated ice on the back inside panel is melting and water is overflowing onto the garage floor. The fan is NOT currently running. The outside temp is 80 degrees with 78% humidity. Garage is 79 degrees.\nI am going to keep my old refrigerator that too big for my garage.\nBut it works, unlike the DANBY\n\n***** UPDATE  -  The refrigerator is now working.  Danby responded within hours and was very apologetic.  Offered replacement or refund.  Also suggest I unplug and plug to reset. (Not in instructions)\nRead that refrigerators needed to have stuff in it to cool properly. (Not in instructions)\nI swapped the door opening side as soon as I unpacked. Was very simple and easy.  The gasket seal seemed to by sealing properly.  But it wasn't.\nI put a flashlight inside and closed the door. Light was coming through the seal in 8--9 places. (This explained the excessive humidity).  I tried to adjust the door to frame but was unsuccessful.  It seems the the mounting holes in the left side are drilled maybe 1/8\" off. The nuts part of the bottom bracket.\nSo I swap the door hinges back to original configurations and the seal fits perfect.\nI filled the refrigerator with drinks last night and today at about 1:00PM the drinks were a cold 41 degrees.\n\nStill need to swapped the hinges to the  left to work in my garage space.  I think Danby will  resolve the problem with the door seal hopefully by an updated design or work around for the hinge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3105, "id": 542345, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 424, "len_tokens": 550, "text": "After 32 years, classic Maytags--made in Iowa--began to fail, and repairs proved expensive. I talked with appliance repair people and read online reviews of new machines. Over the last 30 years, once reliable U.S. makes have been taken over by marketers. Speed Queen is the only exception. Current European and East Asian makes offer little improvement, and some of those makes cost far more.\n\nSpeed Queen has not been a big part of U.S. consumer markets since the 1960s--instead focusing on commercial markets, mainly laundromats. Speed Queen seems to have overcome frequent failures of the early electronic appliance controls. Their electronic models are among the few laundry appliances continuing to carry 5-year, in-home, parts and labor guarantees. They are made in Wisconsin.\n\nA neighbor and I bought two each of model AWNE82SP clothes washers and model ADGE8RGS gas-fired dryers from Yale Appliance in Boston--a reliable company with a service organization. There are around 30 such large, locally oriented appliance firms left in the U.S. Without one nearby, an Amazon partner could be a good choice. In the fall of 2016, the \"82\" model washers came with discounts and rebates. They were apparently being remaindered in favor of newer \"92\" models with more extras, costing about another $100.\n\nControls on a Speed Queen washer and dryer are similar. Both have a power button, a start button, a dozen function buttons, about 20 indicator lights and a time-remaining display. The washer has options for pre-wash, second rinse, wash temperature, soil level (wash time) and load size (water level). The dryer operates by either timing or moisture sensing. It has options for temperature and for dryness when using sensing. A permanent-press wash cycle with mid-range settings and no extras takes just under 30 minutes.\n\nSpeed Queen appliances should be prepared by thoroughly scrubbing drums with a household cleaner, adding a gallon of water from a pail before operating a washer, plus a full cycle with detergent before a first load of wash. Otherwise grime from manufacturing may stain a wash, and the drain pump of a washer might overheat. Installation guides have directions and warnings.\n\nSpeed Queen appliances are noisier than classic Maytags but vibrate less. They clean and dry clothes about as well. The washer has a bleach dispenser, which our Maytag lacked. After a permanent-press cycle, the washer leaves clothes damper than the Maytag did; they take longer to dry. Speed Queen provides stainless steel drums instead of enamel fused over plain steel like a classic Maytag. We saw no advantage for normal uses.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3106, "id": 465103, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 465, "len_tokens": 555, "text": "We shopped around for a washer / dryer that would last...\n\nWe looked at all the major brands and even checked out Consumer Reports.  Most of the major brands seem to be made very cheaply, with all sorts of electronics that can only fail - over time.  Those major brands are 'glitzy' - but will they last?\n\nWe had a top loading Speed Queen that we sold after 22 years of use (with no problems except replacing a dryer belt \"once\").  We sold it because we moved and the new house came with a front loading set.  After 22 years, they were still going strong.\n\nWe've moved again, so we looked at the new Speed Queens.  We are now on a a low producing well - so water usage is a major issue.  This washer only uses about 13.9 gallons of water - maybe less\nfor smaller loads.\n\nAfter only 2 weeks use we think this machine is great.  I truly hope it is as good as Speed Queen has been in the past.  It costs more upfront, but in the long run should be cheaper \"and\" give us fewer headaches!\n\nOne thing I wish this machine had is a ringer to tell us that the washer is finished and a ringer to tell en the dryer is about finished, so we can remove the clothes while they are still hot with no wrinkles.  We have to set an additional timer to check the dryer.  An inconvenience but so far, we love this machine!\n\nI was impressed with the 3 year warranty, as all the other brands only offer a 1 year warranty.  To me, that said something about the quality.  Also, Speed Queen's customer service has been very good to answer all my numerous questions.  Setting up the machine was not difficult to do. Level front to back & side to side and be sure to LOCK the nuts on each leg.  Remember to remove the stabilizers under the washer, (the directions are clear and the phone support is good) and save the parts for future moves of the machine.\n\nUPDATE:\nIt is late July 2014 and we still love this washer & dryer...\nIt's easy to give a good review within the first few weeks, but 5 or 6 months later - after a lot of use - is a better review!\n\nOur only complaint is that there is no Buzzer for either the washer or dryer - that lets you know the cycle is over.  It is a hassle to remember to set the timer on my phone. Really Speed Queen?\n\nThe dryer is plenty big and plenty hot.\nThe washer is plenty big too.\n\nBoth are very quiet. We can hardly hear them and they are close to our livingroom!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3107, "id": 152312, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 494, "len_tokens": 543, "text": "Well like everyone else I too have experienced the floor flood. My washer machine is 7 years old and very heavily used. I developed a leak at the bottom of the seal, more like a sudden gush. I found a 1.5 ft long rip in the bottom part of the seal. So had to decide am I going to replace it or get a new washer and drier?? Well new seal and both upper drum springs, and clamp was under one hundred dollars so it was a no brainer. I fixed it and glad I did. I was a very easy repair and only took about 45 minutes. The only reason it received four star is the seal I received was not formed 100% perfect but still fit fine and works great. I spent more time cleaning the floor flood.  First slide washer out and turn off water supply. Probably already did that anyways to clean up the mess. Oh and a good idea to unplug it from the wall outlet too. Then all you have to do is remove the 3 top lid bolts from behind and slide upper cover to the back and it comes off. There are 3 pieces of plastic trim that surround the washer door opening. I removed all but only really needed to remove was the trim on the hinge side of the door and then the little plastic cover over the hinge. The trim covers just pull off as they are held on with clips. There will be several screws holding the washer door on. Also I removed the upper console that houses the push buttons and that only had 3 screws holding it on and a clip on the right side. Some screws at the bottom of the front panel then pull the large retaining spring that secures the seal to the front door frame and then you will be able to remove the entire front frame assembly and be careful with the switch wiring on the right side of the metal frame. I found it best to just remove the screws and let the switch hang loose. Next you will find second large clamp and this one is a screw clamp. So just loosen the clamp then the entire seal will be loose and pull off. Now it is time to install the new seal in reverse order and double check to make sure that the new seal is properly seated before clamping it down. Keep assembling in reverse order and then you will soon be ready to turn water valves back on and power it up. Sit back and realize how much money you just saved!!!I decided to replace the upper drum springs and the large screw clamp at same time but was not really needed. Just thought it was a good idea. Hope this helps some one save their washer machine and keep them from going to the landfills before their time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3108, "id": 485086, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 461, "len_tokens": 581, "text": "I bought the GE Unitized Spacemaker Model GTUN275GMWW six months ago to replace an older GE unitized model.  I was pleased with the previous model and used it for several years, so I didn't hesitate to buy the latest GE model when it broke.  Unfortunately, the new model is very different from my old model.  The new machine has been a clunker since the day it was installed!  Its extremely loud, it does not rinse properly, and now its leaking water and black soot from the bottom on the machine.\n\nIve been washing clothes for almost 30 years, and Ive used many different washing machines.  This is the only one I have any complaints about.  It is truly the worst home investment Ive ever made.\n\nI contacted GE Appliance Service and scheduled a service appointment.  When the repair technician removed the front of the machine, he immediately saw that the machine is leaking and is rusted out.  To fix it, he needs to fully disassemble and rebuild the washer, including the transmission, tub seal, bearings, tub assembly, tub ring, inner and outer basket, and probably other parts.  This is a new machine, only 6 months old!\n\nGiven my experience, I do not recommend this machine.  Following is a more detailed description of the problems:\n\n1) The washer leaks  Water and black residue (looks similar to black dirt when it dries on the floor) are leaking from the bottom of the washer on the left-hand side.\n\n2) The washer is extremely noisy  My neighbors can hear it spinning from outside of my condo unit, even when they are a full flight downstairs.  It sounds like a train roaring down the tracks!  The noise interferes with phone calls and TV, and it definitely doesn't make me popular with my neighbors!\n\n3) The washer does rinse properly  With just two regularly-sized bath towels in the washer, the washer will not rinse properly.  Even after running it through an extra 2 - 3 full wash/rinse cycles without soap (which takes a lot of time and wastes energy!) there are a lot of suds left in the water and there are suds on the sides of the tub after it spins.  To wash towels, I have to skim out the soapy water by hand.  I currently use high-efficiency (HE) laundry detergent, but the problem occurs with both HE and traditional laundry detergents.  As for the question of whether I'm using too much soap, Ive reduced the amount of soap and it didn't resolve the problem.  Also, I've been washing clothes for almost 30 years, and I've never had this problem with another washer, so I don't believe the problem is related to too much soap; the problem is with the machine and the way it rinses.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3109, "id": 542346, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 458, "len_tokens": 544, "text": "2 years ago we got a 5 cubic feet HE Samsung direct-drive top loader with what seemed like 462 presets. Very nice and very modern...at least we thought at the time. First year seemed to go OK, but the second year things started to (literally) fall apart. The first thing to go was the  top plastic door which rattled so much that the plastic shattered. Samsung was unwilling to cooperate or work with us so we had to fix it ourselves (Don't even get me started on how bad Samsung customer service is - that's a whole other post). Then we noticed that our laundry room was starting to smell like a fish hatchery - it was the disgusting Samsung. Even after we'd run a Pure Cycle our tub was left with little gummy bits of mildew and mold that stuck to our clothes. You could even see mold growing around the top end of the tub. My wife hated it, nothing got clean, and everything smelled like catfish. We eventually (luckily) got a Samsung notice that they were voluntarily recalling that washer because the tub could possibly spin out of the housing and cause severe structural damage or injury...lovely. We happily took the rebate option towards a new washer - the Speed Queen. It's been so nice being able to wash water-resistant items again, too (something you still can't do safely in a modern HE washer - heed my warning, moms, if your kids are still bed-wetting). Sure it uses water and it doesn't look nifty - but it works and works well. We kept the Samsung dryer as it seems to be fine (we actually had to exchange that too in the first 30 days).\n\nGet this washer and just forget about it. It begs to be taken for granted. We haven't missed the large tub at all even with 2 kids. We got ours for 800 even from a local dealer (the 6 preset electronic model). You won't find a lot of reviews because of the amount of water it uses - but read what the people are saying in forums. You don't see any hotels moving to HE machines do you? They all still use these old workhorses. I fear the government will eventually regulate them out of business for water usage, so I'd get in while the gettin's good.\n\n*edit* wanted to add that the new Eco mode is kind of...meh. Not really what Speed Queen is known for. It's fine for every day cleaning, but it's not that great for things like underwear. Use the Heavy Duty cycle for items like that as it is still an old-school wash-cycle and it only adds on 3 minutes or so.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3110, "id": 124953, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 479, "len_tokens": 586, "text": "Super Product and a Bargain at this Price!\n\nThis is the third Infiniti Pro I have purchased.  The first two I bought had a 1 1/2 inch brush that was permanently attached.  I wore out the brushes on both of these.  This version has TWO BRUSHES!!  The smaller one gives more curl.\n\nAfter I wore out the brushes on the first two, I was looking for another brand that might have a better, longer lasting brush.  I found the Hot Revolver by Martino Cartier.  This was a very poor product and extremely overpriced.  The brush would not glide through my hair and it was worthless for smoothing.  The brush started to \"click\" and would no longer spin while in my hair.  Terrible product.\n\nI bought this product because for the first time, I saw that it had TWO different sized brushes that were detachable.  I am part-Asian and I have very thick medium length hair with a moderate amount of body.  I do not recommend using this to dry hair from a completely wet state.  I usually partially dry my hair with a regular blow dryer (especially at the crown) and then finish the styling using this brush.  The brush heads turn in both directions and once you get used to it, you will be flipping from right to left with ease. I usually clip up the crown of my head and then start styling the \"underneath\" hair.  My hair has become a little unruly mainly because of the gray in my hair but this tool does an exceptional job of smoothing my hair.  I can do this with one arm.\n\nI have had bilateral shoulder surgeries and I have a hard time raising my arm over my head.  This brush allows me to dry and style my hair without raising my arm.  I think for folks who have a hard time keeping their arm raised by using a round brush and standard dryer will find this tool to be a DREAM!  This dryer also makes my hair very shiny.\n\nIn the cool setting, you cannot turn the brush.  I use the cool setting if I want to \"lock in\" curls.  In the final phase of styling, I roll hair onto the brush and then flip to the cool setting with one finger.  Once the hair is cool, (less than a minute), the curl will be locked in and I manually unroll from my hair.  However, I only use this setting when I want a lot more curl.\n\nThe key to getting the most out of this brush is not loading too much hair at once and only doing small sections at a time.  This brush is a definite time saver and I can get professional results without straining.  When this brush stops \"grabbing\" your hair, it's time for a new one.  My brushes have lasted about 3-4 years.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3111, "id": 451578, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 481, "len_tokens": 581, "text": "Jan's hubby speaking. We have this machine and we don't know what's behind all the  whining and gnashing of teeth in the other reviews. What are these people talking about? We have one of these in an apartment we've been renting TO COLLEGE STUDENTS for 6 years. Not exactly skilled appliance operators if you get my drift.\n\nToday the tenant called to say she thought the dryer cycle wasn't working. Went and checked it and yes, the machine doesnt heat when it goes into dry cycle. No biggie. The element is probably out. I'll check it tomorrow but I bet the it just wore out. It happens.\n\nAm I mad? Am I calling the machine and the company names? No. The fact is this is a mini machine designed to Euro standards where people don't expect to wash big loads then dry them to a crisp in an American style dryer. The thing has worked flawlessly in a rental situation for 6 years. I would expect something to go wrong with it by now. I have had worse luck with Maytag front loaders (that are supposed to be great...they're Maytags after all) with control boards and pumps failing in one and two year old machines. Not so with this little guy.\n\nIf I cant fix the dryer element (and I bet I can) then I will toss it because the way I figure it I saved a ton of dough by not having to run a 240 volt line to it  and venting it 6 years back when I installed it...in fact what I saved was easily the cost of a new machine today.\n\nAll the woes these people are complaining about seem self-inflicted. Yes, open the lint trap at the bottom of the machine with a full tub and you will get a flood; it's a wet lint trap, not a dry one like we Yanks are used to. Even without the tub full a little water comes out. Maybe a cup. Catch it in a cookie sheet and you'll be fine. Stuff it too full and it will not dry...at all. No room for air to circulate.\n\nI don't know what they're saying about noise. I personally watched ours run for 30 minutes today and you can barely hear it. Its certainly quieter than the Frigidaire front loaders we have in other units and in our house (that have not been without their issues too).\n\nBottom line: this is probably the best combo washer dryer unit on the market, and it appears reliable. Our experience with it proves it. We wouldnt hesitate to buy another.\n\nUPDATE 8/8/11: Checked the washer out and found dryer motor worn out (easy to do...take top cover off and it right there). Called Summit in NYC-area and they had one for $50 plus UPS. I'll be back in business in no time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3112, "id": 48071, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 419, "len_tokens": 526, "text": "So many people freak out when the zits arrive and give up when they start using this product because of it. This is my SECOND tube. I have combination skin prone to pimples and cysts on my cheeks and chin + the brown spots those things leave behind. Through the years I've used scrubs and various treatments including glycolic acid peels at the dermatologist's office. THIS will give you the benefits like a glycolic peel within a week IF you have the patience to use it for 7 days. The smooth, soft, clearer skin IS revealed AND people do notice you're doing something different!\n\nDepending on how clogged your pores are and how deep the pimply goop is, will determine IF your face will seem to be at it's all time WORST. The thermal properties and the massage \"wakes up\" and sprouts every zit you can imagine! It did for me, and so did dermatologist office treatments. So I'd initially start using this on a Friday night when you can be a hermit for the weekend in case you have a Zit-fest.\n\nAfter removing ALL makeup and REALLY cleaning the face and neck, use this product according to directions, adding water to reactivate the thermal properties a couple times (I do it 3 times). After rinsing, you'll feel as though there is a residue left on the skin after rinsing it off. DO NOT re-wash your face, leave it be. Don't even put on moisturizer, let your skin soak the residue in and adjust to the NEW SKIN SHERIFF in-town over the weekend.\n\nI used it twice a day and on weekdays apply all my usual moisturizer w/SPF and makeup. IF running late, I skipped the morning Mini-Peel treatment BUT as soon as I got home I took off my makeup, cleansed my face and whipped out the Thermal Mini-Peel and worked it! After the first 7 days, I used it only in the evenings on weekdays and twice a day on weekends. I really like to spend the time to get at least 3 thermal re-activations per treatment so rushed mornings usually aren't conducive to it.\n\nMy skin is smoother, softer, clearer with LESS whiteheads, blackheads, zits than it has been in years. Even the brown spots  slowly faded without other \"potions\". Going forward, I used this only a couple times a week rather than every day because my skin IS doing so well. Point being, I didn't see myself using this TWICE a day forever :)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3113, "id": 43885, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 488, "len_tokens": 590, "text": "Just completed the repair of my dishwasher racks. Here are some of my experiences and comments about the product and the process.\n\nFirst of all if you have a moderate amount repair work to do, set aside about 3 to 4 hours of time. Preparation is the key to long term sustainability of this kind of repair.  Directions provided with the product are very simplistic.  Mentioning scrape bubbled areas and sand.  Well, rust or corrosion is like cancer. The best way to insure longevity to the repair is to REMOVE the rust or as much as possible. Scrape and sand will be a purely cosmetic repair which will look better for a matter of months but will begin to deteriorate again.  If you access to a Dremel type motor tool, use it.  It will vastly improve the quality of the repair and the amount of time it will last.  I had bubbling tine ends that were rusting. Use the small cutoff wheels to trim the tine down to good wire.  Some of my tines on the rack have only 3/4 of the tine left, but not rust will be returning anytime soon.\n\nAny bubbling areas on the rack itself, I changed to the mini cylinder/grinder wheel on the Dremel to grind/sand off the rust. Take it all the way down to shiny metal. If it is too rusted, consider removing that small section of the wire rack and using the caps to terminate the cut off ends. Be careful not to grind off vinyl in surrounding areas. It will only create more work with the liquid vinyl later.\n\nIt is mentioned here that the liquid vinyl dries quickly while one is applying it. This is true. Work on painting all the rack repair areas first. Apply in quick even moderate brush strokes. To prevent gobby drying on the brush, stick the brush back in the bottle when moving from one repair area to the next. Do not shake the bottle during this time, it promotes globby buildup on the brush shaft.  Minimize the liquid vinyls exposure to the air on the brush. First coat should dry within an hour or less. Do another coat the same way. Maybe even a third coat on some areas.\n\nLastly, \"gluing\" the tine caps on. Use the method in the directions. I saved this for last because it doesn't take but a small drop to \"glue\" the tine end on and the brush will probably be a little globby from the rack repairs which is okay.\n\nI bought the 80 cap kit, only really needing to cap 50, but I put the rest on heavy used tine areas for preventative measures.  I bought an extra liquid vinyl bottle at the same time.  I used about a quarter of it. I ended up doing three solid coats on all the repair areas.\n\nNow let see how it holds up long term.\n\nGood luck!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3114, "id": 88159, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3115, "id": 16851, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 443, "len_tokens": 528, "text": "If you're on a budget and need a range hood fan, this is THE super easy, no frills, no thrills hood fan. It is one of the most versatile oven range hood fan youll find out there. Its not the prettiest, but it has one job and does it fairly well. Its quiet and just works. The ONLY thing it doesnt come with is the power cord.\n\nThe first unit was damaged to hell during shipping and Amazon quickly sent a replacement. With that said, the sheet metal that its made out of is very thin and can be bent in/out of shape fairly easy. The range hood can accommodate round and rectangle vents, or no vents. That was the main reason why I got this, because I didn't know if my current one even had a vent. Thankfully it did and fits.\n\nThe instructions are somewhat convoluted with technical jargon that will make you say, WTF did I get into!? Rest assured, its super easy and NOT complicated at all, except for power.\n\nFirst detach the silver vent attached to the hood. Depending on your venting, pop out the pre-punched holes for the correct venting style. Mock up your hood to the resting place and drill or (loosely) screw in the screws to hold it in place.\n\nTake the hood off, and get a 3-wire pig tail plug (not included) to connect your power to the hood. Luckily I hoard and have a bunch of computer power cords for this reason. Strip the power wires and you should have white, black, and green. Before attaching the plugs, punch out the correct hole on the hood for power cord placement, then stick the cable through the hole to continue. Green get grounded to the green dyed screw underneath the power box, the white goes with white, and black goes with black. I used wire nuts to secure them and then used black electrical tape to further secure them.\n\nPlace the hood back on, plug it in and make sure it works before securing the screws. At this point I noticed it wasn't that loud, even on the high setting. I can still have a conversation with it on high.\n\nNow for the duct work, remove the power, remove the hood, and attach the new venting duct attachment onto the hood. If you have an existing hood range, simply slide the old venting duct onto the new one. Once on, now secure it with duct tape along the exposed connecting points so that smoke doesnt seep through. Now you can say you used duct tape as intended.\n\nHopefully this has been helpful. Good luck!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3116, "id": 546502, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 453, "len_tokens": 536, "text": "Review of 36\" -- I did a lot, and I mean a LOT of research on range hoods before finally selecting this one. We wanted one with a flat base, wall-mounted design with a narrow chimney, in stainless, with fairly simple controls, and ideally the metal baffle filters. This ticked all the boxes, and was also a good value, at a much lower price than some competing products.\n\nWe have not had it long (a month or so), and haven't used it heavily, but so far it is performing as expected. The \"Quiet\" mode is indeed fairly quiet, and good for general use. But we also wanted a powerful fan for more intense cooking sessions, and on high, I think this will do the trick. It really draws some air, and yes it's loud, but doesn't rattle or anything.\n\nI kind of wish it had 4 lights, but the two do a good enough job of illuminating the stove, and they are a nice lower level light when no other lights are on in the kitchen.\n\nThe reason I'm not giving it 5 stars has to do with build quality - there are two key issues.\nFirst, the chimney had a slight dent in one of the front corners, almost not visible, but enough to make it difficult to slide the inner chimney up and down. I had to gently tap the dented areaso that the inner part would move easily during the install. You can't actually see this dent once it is installed, so the only issue was the install. The hood was very well packaged in a heavy box with considerable foam, so I doubt it was damaged in shipping.\nSecond, after putting a lot of time into leveling the back of the hood (it's hanging on a brick wall), the front of the hood sits at a slightly different angle, i.e. one corner dips lower than the other. In other words, the front and back edge aren't aligned. I can sort of get the front to align if I push it \"into place\". It is not really noticeable when looking at it, so I consider it minor. But if you put a level on the front, and then on the back, you can tell. I guess there is just not enough rigid structure in it to keep the two sides aligned.\n\nBut again, overall, I'm quite pleased, and do not regret the purchase. We just did a major renovation of our kitchen, and I was really excited about adding this hood - before we had this small built-in hood under a cabinet. This new one is a key new visual element in the room, and also seems to work well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3117, "id": 453678, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 481, "len_tokens": 577, "text": "While the all in one compact washer and dryer by Haier gets great reviews from a compact appliance website vs amazon's less than great reviews of it, this stand alone compact Haier washer received consistently positive reviews everywhere I searched.  The capacity is large enough for 2 people's wash and is about 75% capacity of a full sized washer. I did lots of research before finally picking this model.\n\nThe first one I received was extremely damaged- it looked as if it was squeezed from its sides and burped itself out the front.  The outside panel was bent out of shape with dings all around the container, not even an option to keep it.  Amazon was quick to exchange it and the next day fed ex picked it up.  A week later I received a new one in much better shape.  Like people said on previous reviews, an internal styrofoam packing around the inner drum could prevent all of the shipping damage problems, but for the most part everything else is packed well.\n\nMost people who use this machine will roll it out to their kitchen or bathroom sink when they are ready to use it;  I decided to put it in a small closet adjacent to the bathroom and hard plumb it to the water lines underneath the bathroom sink.  The awesome thing about this machine is that it has a hot water inlet and a cold water inlet, it doesn't just combine all the water into one inlet like other compact machines; it has the option for a hot water wash.  Hard plumbing requires picking up 2 qty, 6' length, 3/8 size connector *dishwasher* hoses at H.D. with adapters included in the bag to hook it to the back of this washer.  Just needed to buy the 3/8\" T connector to run one line to the washing machine, one to the sink coming off the water line.  The washer drain hose will still need to go down the sink, but I am looking into hard connecting that soon as well.\n\nOperation of the machine is straight forward, decent led display, easy to set your options and pause.  I used the kill-a-watt meter on it and the washer proved its energy efficiency through all cycles including spin, using only 2 - 2.25 amps and only 150 - 269 watts.  However, only during the beginning agitation cycle, it pulsed the bathroom lights slightly that were on that circuit, might be a slight interference on the line from the washer's electric motor.  Not a big deal after the agitation cycle is done.\n\nHave run about 5 loads so far, and yes the back \"legs\" are removable, there is a small wrench tool included in the bag to remove the pegs and put the included wheels on all the way around.\n\nYou cant beat the price and performance of this compact washer.\n\n-J", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3118, "id": 87215, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3119, "id": 341303, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 459, "len_tokens": 537, "text": "I wanted to love this washer after a bad experience with an HE top-loader, but I had to return it due to a back-up of soap bubbles pouring out of the washer hose where it meets the wall (the standpipe) every time I used the machine (see the pic below). Every time I did a load of laundry, a trail of bubbles would leak out of the standpipe and drip onto our wall and behind the machine, causing potential moisture/mold issues. Luckily the retailer agreed to take it back.\n\nI called Speed Queen's technical support numerous times and while they were polite and clearly familiar with the problem, they couldn't do anything to fix it. I tried reducing the amount of detergent, trying different types of HE detergent (though this is a traditional agitator-style machine it requires HE detergent), adding a standpipe adapter, but nothing worked. Speed Queen politely insisted the problem must be my plumbing or the location of the standpipe, but out of the 4 washers that have been installed in the exact same set-up in the past 4 months, only the Speed Queen had a bubble problem. Speed Queen said the problem is because their machines (especially the pump) are very powerful, but I don't think that's the case. It seemed to me that bubbles would get trapped in the hose during the rinse/spin cycle, agitate within the house due to some defect until they turned into a lather, and then discharge at the end of the spin cycle in a torrent.\n\nAlso, though this machine purports to have a best-in-the-business warranty, good luck using that warranty. When I called Speed Queen to see if we could set up a warranty call to see if there was something wrong with our pump or hose, Speed Queen told me to contact the retailer or to look up a local service provider directly. Speed Queen doesn't seem to provide any warranty services, so it is up to your retailer to handle any warranty claims.  In this case, our retailer was going to charge us a $129 service fee if they determined that there was nothing wrong with the machine so we passed on that.\n\nAnother quirk of this machine is that the Eco Normal cycle uses no hot water even if the machine is set to warm or hot. All Normal washes are cold water only. If you want a warm or hot wash, you have to use the Permanent Press, Delicate or Heavy Duty cycles. Eco Normal also provides no extra rinse option.\n\nLuckily our retailer took this back, or else we would have a big problem with the overflowing bubbles. We've had a replacement front-loader for a week now and no bubbles with this one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3120, "id": 410416, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 472, "len_tokens": 568, "text": "First of all, I've asked Amazon to send it in discrete packaging and that never happened, so I found out that this arrived because my landlord called at work to ask why I had a washer. Not the product's fault, but still frustrating.\n\nThere was a weird smell right out of the box. Not strong enough to be off-putting, but it was noticable. I'm usually a wimp when it comes to smells but it wasn't so bad.\n\nAs other reviewers pointed out, there's no way to connect to a faucet unless you go to the hardware store to buy a part to go onto your tap. A little annoying, but I use an old jug to fill up the tub. I'll probably be headed to the hardware store later today. The electrical cord is a bit short, so I have to awkwardly stage it in my bathroom, but if you have multiple outlets, that's probably not such a big deal for you.\n\nThe dryer basket is small, MUCH smaller than I anticipated, and three pairs of jeans and two shirts was a little bit much for it. I put two pairs of jeans and a shirt and it did great. The washer is larger than I expected and can handle larger loads fairly well, but the dryer can only handle a few items at a time. Also- pro tip, invest in a color-catcher. If you have dyes that run, it will stain the inside of your machine.\n\nNow, the drain.\nThe drain is badly designed. The pump isn't strong enough to get all of the water out if you use the drain hose to drain into something like a bathtub, so I need to lift the machine to get the last bits of water. If I don't, the second the hose touches the ground, it sprays all over. Like a full cup or two of water. Minor design flaw which is mostly gravity's fault, so I can deal with that.\n\nBut when you're spinning something in the basket (anything- oversized load, undersized, ANYTHING), the hose will discharge whatever water is left in it without the machine set to \"drain,\" even if the hose is flat and you have what you think is all of the water out.\nInvest in a good towel and/or a command hook/zip tie situation to keep the hose in place.\n\nWhy four stars then? Because this thing actually gets my clothes really,really clean. Much more than the community washer in my complex. It's a pain in the ass, but it's light, fairly inexpensive, and it does the job credibly.\n\nIf you're on the fence and don't mind minor hassle and a trip to the hardware store, it's 100% worth it. If you're looking for something you can just walk away from, invest in a full set.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3121, "id": 317315, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 423, "len_tokens": 504, "text": "If you ever bought a mini-fridge with a \"shelf freezer\" the expectation is pretty much the same.  They are horrible at being freezers.  The only ice you will get is around the freezer coils.  Thus this is a manual defrost unit.  I keep two medium sized desiccants in the freezer unit in hopes of preventing frost, and not deal with defrosting the unit.  Only time will tell if it works.\n\nThis unit includes a 10 cube mini-ice tray. I left it in the freezer compartment over the weekend only to have three ice cubes form.  Turning up the 'fridge dial from the recommended 4 to 5 (out of 7) yields about 5 cubes a day later. The rest is still liquid water - not even frost.  It does not keep anything frozen inside the box.  Items must keep direct contact with the freezer coils and plate.  It did not keep a frozen fruit bar intact even when in direct contact with the plate.  The other side shows signs of mush.  My frozen burger with bun only stays frozen on one side.\n\nOn the plus side it has a soda can rack which also holds my healthy and delicious coconut water.  You can keep quite a few things on the door and inside the fridge with the expectation of a proper chill.  I keep a small box on the bottom filled with oranges which remain nice and cold.  Never cover the racks with paper or otherwise block the flow of air to prevent warm spots in the unit.  This depends solely on the concept of cold air falling to refrigerate and has no fan. Thus why the freezer is a bust.\n\nThe instructions say when you first turn on the unit to set it to the max of 7 a few hours until it reaches the proper cooling temperature.  I only did so a couple of hours and wonder if I did not \"prime\" the freezer function as a result.  I gave up on it being a freezer and set the dial back to 4 to keep the compressor from overworking for little return.  The manual says the lowest temperature you can achieve is 27 degrees F.  But I am not willing to freeze my regular food for the sake of ice.\n\nI can not complain as it was bought for me in exchange for a big I.T. favor done for a work friend. All in all it runs very quite and is a great little 'fridge, just not very much of a freezer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3122, "id": 341276, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 447, "len_tokens": 570, "text": "Purchased this washer and matching dryer not from Amazon but from a local dealer.  This is the BEST washer and dryer I have ever owned!  Let me say it again---THIS IS THE BEST WASHER AND DRYER I HAVE EVER OWNED!\n\nBackstory:  Purchased a Kenmore washer and dryer 4 years ago after my previous Kenmore washer gave up the ghost.  Had that machine for many years.  Long story short, both the washer and dryer purchased 4 years repeatedly broken down at least every year.  The extended warranty covered all the repair which ended up costing more than the original machines.  But this was the last straw:  Once again the dryer honked out and the repair man was 3 weeks away.  Unwilling to continue hauling laundry to laundromat for drying, I thought there must be something better.  Let me also say, when the repairman was 3 weeks away, the dryer had just been fixed after waiting another 3 weeks so in total, I was without a dryer for around 6 weeks.  The bearing went out on the washer and the new bearing did not fit well so meant the washer made even more noise and would require yet another fix.\n\nDecided enough was enough,  Purchased the set of SpeedQueens and had the Kenmore hauled to the junk yard.\n\nThe SpeedQueen washes the clothes so much faster.  The Kenmore took an average of 1 hour and around 10 minutes to wash a load.  It would become unbalanced taking even longer.  The lid lock was annoying.  The SpeedQueen washes a load in 30 minutes.  Has no lid lock.  Allows me to adjust the water to whatever I prefer.  Is super quiet.  The dryer works very well.  Dries everything much faster than my Kenmore.\n\nThe problem is that SpeedQueen is not carried by chain stores but only sells to independent appliance dealers like mom and pop shops.  That is why it never came up when I was searching for a washer and dryer to replace the ones I had.  When I went to the store, I had a machine picked out but when I stumbled upon the SpeedQueen, I went with that.\n\nThe nice thing is that there is no extended warranty on SpeedQueen because the warranty that comes with the machine is so good.  The washer is expected to last something around 26,000 loads of laundry!  It works perfectly.\n\nWashing with my previous Kenmore was like the old days, washing took all day if there were multiple loads.  With the SpeedQueen, washing is a breeze.\n\nHad I thought about SpeedQueen 4 years ago, I would have purchased that.\n\nAs I said, this is the best machine I have ever owned.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3123, "id": 404303, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 316, "len_tokens": 540, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R1URT9FQKD87FD\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/E1wujgzZwPS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91dbQOJuxQS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;This makes ice really fast!\n\nYou can fit just over 1/2 gallon of water in the reservoir and you can have ice in as quick as 6 minutes.\n\nThe unit is very easy to operate.\n- Fill it with water\n- Plug it in\n- Choose either small or large ice\n\nDella sells another model&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/DELLA-Premium-Ice-Maker-Portable-Counter-Top-Daily-Ice-Making-Capacity-26-LBS-Silver/dp/B01AYRSCYO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">DELLA Premium Ice Maker Portable Counter-Top, Daily Ice Making Capacity: 26 LBS (Silver)</a>&nbsp;and I couldn't decide which one to get, so I got them both of them because in an emergency two is better than one and each one produces 26 lbs of ice per day.\n\nA 20 lb bag of ice at Walmart is $4 and once it melts it's gone. When your ice melts in your cooler now, you can cycle it back through this machine and make more ice. I'll let you do the math.\n\nAnyway, back to the machines themselves...\nThey are identical in every discernible way except for the lid.\n\nThey both hold the same amount of water and ice and can hold about 1.5 pounds of ice in the little bucket that is in there.\nThey both have small/large ice sizes to choose from.\nThe units themselves are pretty much the same dimensions.\n\n - This model has the buttons on the front and a smaller viewing window.\n\n - The premium model has a bigger viewing window, so you can actually see inside where the magic happens and how the machine makes the ice.\n\nAt least right now, the prices on each of these is the same, so it just comes down to aesthetics and what look you prefer.\n\nI did receive this product at a discount in exchange for my honest review.\n\nIf this review was helpful to you, please let me know by clicking yes/helpful.\n\nThanks,\nTravis", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3124, "id": 88415, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3125, "id": 542341, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 431, "len_tokens": 553, "text": "I have had this machine for 5 months now.  I purchased this brand/model because, like many people, I recall my grandparents having a washing machine for 30 years.  My last two machines lasted 6-10 years each.  Admittedly, they both cost less than this one - I paid $900 for this and around $600 for each of the last two.  But, for me, it's worth the extra money to get (hopefully) quite a bit more lifespan out of the thing.  So far it has worked perfectly.  (Admittedly, after only 5 months that's to be expected from any washing machine.)\n\nOne note:  this machine will not allow water to fill the tub while the door is open.  I don't like that because I put the detergent in the drum first, and I want water to dissolve it before/while I put the clothes in.  There is a simple way to bypass this door lockout - can be found on Youtube and elsewhere online.\n\nAnother point:  I never use Eco mode.  Clothes seem to come out cleaner using 'heavy duty' mode.\n\nI spoke with a washing machine repair man who told me that Speed Queen and Fischer&Paykel are the two brands he would recommend at this time.  He has been repairing washing machines for about 40 years.\n\nOnly time will tell whether this model lasts me as long as I would like (20+ years would be great).  I will update this review if any problems arise.\n\nA couple notes for other reviewers:\n1)  I also had a High Efficiency (Samsung) washer before this one.  Many people complain about the mold/musty smell from front-loading HE washers.  While I too had that problem at first, I realized it was because the drum wasn't drying out when the machine was not in use.  So I began leaving the door cracked open when the machine was not in use.  That allowed the water to evaporate and fixed the mold/musty smell.  (I read this on a forum somewhere...Europeans apparently have been doing this for some time.)\n\n2)  Some complain about the delivery process.  My total purchase price for this model was $899 - which is competitive for this model vs. purchasing at any brick-and-mortar store I looked at, and included free shipping.  Free shipping for a washing machine.  I live in Kansas, and this was sent (by third party seller) from New Jersey.  So yes, it did take something like a month for the machine to arrive at my house, but given I did not pay for shipping such a heavy object 1000 miles, I can't complain at all.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3126, "id": 87639, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3127, "id": 399135, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 291, "len_tokens": 506, "text": "D'Addario Acoustic Guitar Humidifier&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/D-Addario-Acoustic-Guitar-Humidifier/dp/B0002D0COE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">D'Addario Acoustic Guitar Humidifier</a>&nbsp;and&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/D-Addario-Humiditrak-Bluetooth-Humidity-and-Temperature-Sensor/dp/B019JD0XZ0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">D'Addario Humiditrak - Bluetooth Humidity and Temperature Sensor</a>&nbsp;are a must have accessory if you have valuable instruments that are exposed to varying humidly and temperature extremes. Failure to keep your high value instruments within the 45 - 55% Spec will result in not only warping  and checking of the finish, top, neck and bridge. Your playability and action will suffer as well. Over time your instrument will suffer tone loss resulting in either excessive repair by a Luthier, or your total frustration and eventual neglect of your guitar. I recently had my D28-12 Martin show signs of dryness after being left in the stand overnight in an AC controlled room showing 40% in the humidistat. There was a puckering look like mini washboard ripples on the top. Long story made short. If you are not checking your humidity and are not taking steps to protect your instruments you will eventually come to regret your mistake. 75% of the guitar repair shop's work is directly a result of low humidity induced damage.  Great tool, I highly recommend it! I included pictures of the twins, Martin D28 and a D28-12, and my 1969 Hummingbird she is as sweet today as it was the first night I brought it home 35 years ago..  HUMIDIFY\n---UPDATE--- The new update has fixed all problems with connectivity, battery life (now 6 months) These units pair as soon as I open the app and update the data right away. I do not know why anyone is having problems now. Just update to the new Version 1.15 and your units will function correctly.\n5 Stars A++ RECOMMENDED\nVOTE thumbs UP IF YOU FOUND THIS HELPFUL", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3128, "id": 105033, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 475, "len_tokens": 574, "text": "A remarkable little washer!  Living in an apartment with coin-op laundry facilities in a different building is just not at all convenient, so a small clothes washer seemed the way to go.  I read lots of reviews and watched youtube videos for research before buying, and this seemed to have very good comments.  It came very well boxed, no damage at all.  Easy to unpack, easy to install the few items (bottom plate, casters) that needed to be put on.  A screwdriver was all that was necessary.  It comes with a faucet adapter and hoses.  If the adapter doesn't fit your faucet, I think a local hardware store will have one, as that is what I had to do with my previous clothes washer.  The manual directs fastening the drain hose to the inlet hose with a cable tie, but though two of them came with the washer, they are too short to fit around both hoses.  The curved drain hose attachment does not fit the kitchen sink edge, and I have my doubts about it staying put while draining anyway, so I tied the hoses together just below the faucet with a shoelace, which works perfectly.\n\nI ran it through a cycle with just a little detergent and water to clean it, as instructions say to do, to verify it worked.  Then I washed a load of clothes, but made the mistake of putting in too many, and though it handled it fine on the \"heavy load\" setting, I will have to learn to do smaller loads more often.  (My previous machine was a pain to set up and use and I was used to waiting until I had a lot to wash.)  Everything went well and the clothes got clean, a little more damp than I would have expected, but I did load a lot into it.  It is VERY QUIET!  I'm amazed at how quiet it is!  It seems to rinse thoroughly, draining, spinning a bit, then adding water for more rinsing.  The times for each cycle are given in the manual...a nice touch.\n\nI did call the customer help number (it's right inside the washer tub permanently) to ask about lint filter, but this washer does not have one, and lint is expelled with the draining water.  (The service number was answered immediately by a human being without having to wait or push a lot of buttons.  Good service.)  I suppose if lint is a concern, a strainer could be used in the sink drain to catch it, especially for pet hair.  Anyway, I've only done a few loads of wash so far and it's far easier and more convenient than I could have hoped for, so I have no hesitation about recommending this washer for an apartment, or even as a second machine.  I'll post again in a few months.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3129, "id": 87239, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3130, "id": 87871, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3131, "id": 515381, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 443, "len_tokens": 579, "text": "First, let me say that I rarely write a review unless the purchase/product is exceptionally good or exceptionally bad.  Happily, this purchase falls in the \"exceptionally good\" category.  So, let me run down the reasons that I have been pleased so far with this purchase:\n\n1.  Shipping speed.  We ordered this set around noon on a Tuesday.  Within an hour or so, I received the shipping confirmation.  The next day, Wednesday, I received a call from the trucking company to set up a delivery time for the following day, Thursday.  The washer/dryer set was delivered before noon on Thursday.  That totally blew me away!\n\n2.  Packaging.  The washer, dryer and two pedestals were, as I expected, packaged separately.  What I didn't expect was the quality of the engineered packaging.  It was pretty amazing and, as a result, these heavy units came out of the packaging completely unscathed.\n\n3.  Installation instructions.  They were clear, fairly concise, and not cluttered up with pages and pages of \"lawyer speak\" safety instructions which often seem to be designed not to make the product installation safer but, rather, to limit the manufacturer's liability in case of an accident.\n\n4.  Energy efficiency.  Yes, I knew that these were HE appliances but when I read on the Energy Guide that the total cost to operate the washer for a year was only $12, I was in disbelief.  Honestly, I'm still somewhat skeptical but that's what it said.\n\n5.  Operation.  I would never have believed that a washer/dryer could be so quiet if I had not heard it (barely) with my own ears.  They are amazingly quiet.  Our  wash room contains the washer, dryer and a large upright freezer.  Honest to goodness, I can hear the freezer running over the washer and dryer.  I can't really tell if the clothes come out any cleaner but my wife says that the time to wash and dry is considerably less than our old set.  She also loves the ease of operation as well as the extra storage space provided by the pedestals.  If she's happy (and she is) then I'm tickled plumb to death.\n\n6.  Long term reliability.  This one I can't answer yet.  Only time will tell but, based on our overall experience so far, I'm expecting good things.\n\nOne caveat regarding installation is that these things are HEAVY.  I think that the washer and pedestal weigh in the neighborhood of 275 lbs.  So, this would be a good time to have some big strong friends to give you a hand.\n\nIf we experience reliability problems, I will post an update to this review but I'm really not expecting that to happen.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3132, "id": 553987, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 413, "len_tokens": 522, "text": "So far, Im impressed with this Max Burton 6515. It is rated at 1800W. I measured 1755W with my  Kill A Watt  meter. Thats close enough for me. I have received NO COMPENSATION OF ANY SORT for my review and I would be the first to tell you if a found a flaw in any product.\n.\nAreas that could be improved:\n1) Finer control in both power mode and temperature mode would be nice\n2) The dial control is a bit finicky. I left a message with customer service to ask about it. They did return my call within 1 hour but were of limited help. Still, I am impressed that they returned my call.\n3) It would be nice if the power level ( PL  mode ) went lower than 500W. Though  Temperature  mode can go lower, 500W is just not low enough for some types of cooking. PL 1 is perfect for quesadillas. To get lower heat than that, you have to switch to temperature mode.\n.\nThings Im impressed with:\n1) Its VERY powerful. It brought two cups of room temperature water at sea level in a coated cast iron pan to a simmer after 1 min, 15 sec and to a rapid boil after 2 min, 30 sec.\n2) Its nice to be able to get a low, constant and reliable temperature. You have to use  Temperature  mode for this but set to 100F ( non-probe ), it melted chocolate without burning. I let it run for two hours this way and the chocolate did not burn.\n3) The case feels very strong and the feet have adjustable height ( screw type ) for stability.\n4) The case is grounded. For safetys sake, ALL electrical appliances in wet locations should be grounded.\n.\nTips and tricks :\n.\nPlease, ALWAYS use a GFCI outlet for any electrical appliance in a wet location. The life you save may be your own !\n.\nThe plug is for a standard 120Vac 15 amp outlet, however, during testing I did see some current draws slightly higher than 15 amps. Even though it will function on a standard 15 amp outlet, I recommend using a dedicated 20 amp run with 10 awg minimum Romex right back to the main panel. Thats how mine is set up and I've had no heat or voltage drop problems with it. Note that my equipment is NOT NIST traceable and is subject to error. I recommend waiting for my final review before purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3133, "id": 337976, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 382, "len_tokens": 507, "text": "LG washer opened during wash and did thousands of dollars in water damage. LG refused to take responsibility for their product.\n\nBeware of LG!  Do your research first and save yourself some trouble.\nWe purchased an LG Front loading washing machine that opened up during a wash cycle and LG is refusing to cover any of the damages to our home.  This is particularly egregious because LG is aware that if their front loading machines over fill with water that the door will pop open.  LG is knowingly selling front loading washers that will open if, for whatever reason, they get too full of water.  We thought the washer was great before it just opened up.\n\nMODEL NAME: WM2650HRA  SERIAL NUMBER: 306PNAJ6G432\nPURCHASE DATE: 4/20/2014 Retail price $1,099.00\n\nIt worked perfectly until 5/10/2014 when during a sanitation wash cycle the front door opened and poured water out causing over $3000 (supported by estimates from licensed contractors) of damage to our living space by ruining wall to wall carpet and some of the sub floor.\n\nOn 5/10/14 LG service representative admitted that too much water would open the door.\nOn 5/19/14 Mr. Blake also stated that too much water would cause the door to open.\nThis proves that LG was well aware of this feature of their front loading washing machines.\n\n5-20-2014 LG Call CNM140520553488 Representative Katie refused to provide smart diagnosis report from 5/10 incident and refused to provide her last name but transferred me to a supervisor.\n\n5-20-2014 Adrian ID7008 seemed surprised that two people at LG had admitted the defect regarding the door opening.\n\nOn 6/16/2014 our claim was denied by LG\n\nWe have filed a formal complaint against LG with the North Carolina Dept of Justice Consumer protection dept. which has been assigned file number 1408167  LG replied with a frivolous reply claming there was nothing wrong with the washing machine.\n\nComplaint case # 31032574 has now been filed with the Better Business Bureau. LG replied with a frivolous reply referring us back to\nMr. Blake.\n\nBefore you buy any of their products you should be very aware that LG used to be Goldstar!  Would you buy a Goldstar appliance (remember the junky computer monitors)??  They changed their name for good reason but some things remain the same.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3134, "id": 560730, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 415, "len_tokens": 508, "text": "I bought this dishwasher and I love it. Many of the people that are giving this dishwasher low ratings are blaming the dishwasher for their bad results. Most low end basic dishwashers clean just as good as the high end dishwashers and faster too, if you follow some simple steps. (1) I set my Water Heater to 130 F. (2) I use Powder Industrial CASCADE with PHOSPHATE \"Yes you can still buy this stuff online\". (3) Fill both detergent compartments full. (4) Use Rinse Aid. (5) Before starting the dishwasher, turn the hot water on at the kitchen sink so the water line flushes out any cold water. (6) Learn how to load your pots, pans, dishes, and glasses correctly. Do not block the center wash tower or place tall object next to it. This will cause cleaning problems in the top rack. (7) Do not place pots or bowls in the bottom rack towards the front, because the water jets need to wash the detergent cups clean. Follow these simple steps and see how wonderful your dishes turn out with less time. Also, the hotter the water the better drying you will have because hotter dishes evaporate the water much faster. And by the way, the low end dishwashers, that are not Engery Star compliant, are louder than the high end dishwashers, because they use bigger water pump motors and use more water. This is why they get your dishes cleaned faster! The newer high end dishwashers, on the market today, have tiny motors and use very little water, so they can bragg about it being Energy Star compliant and it takes 3-1/2 hours to get you dishes clean. The bigger the water pump motor with lots of water, the stronger the water jets inside the dishwasher, and the machine will be able to clean your dishes faster. Unfortunately, most people today want quiet machines with fancy lights, use a cup of water to save Mother Earth, and take hours and hours to do the job our old, louder, & large water quantity machines could do in less than an hour.  It all comes down to two choices: do you want an ultra quiet high end machine that takes 3-1/2 hours to clean and makes you feel good about yourself, or a machine that you can hear the water from the jets inside and takes 2 hours or less to clean?  You can't have your cake and eat it too. I choose faster cleaning!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3135, "id": 95442, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 503, "len_tokens": 597, "text": "This is my first replacement filter for my fridge.  At this point it is hard to say if I'll be satisfied, but it looks like this is a good choice so far.  I ding it a star for not including enough information and taking way too long to clear.  I give it 4 stars because it seems to work as well as the original and it is 2/3 the price.\n\nI seem to remember the stock filter taking longer to fully clear than 5 minutes but I didn't time it.  This time I timed it (easy, because the fridge shuts off the flow after 1 minute).  It took 18 minutes to fully clear (I'm glad I turned off ice maker before I put it in).  Even after 15 minutes there were more tiny floating bits than tap water, and the taste was off.  I wouldn't describe it as plastic, but otherwise it sounds like what other reviewers noticed.\n\nAs far as other concerns brought up in other reviews:\n- No leaks, no drips.  The flow is about the same as the stock filter; 15 seconds for 1 pint.\n- The filter is a little bit taller (and slightly heavier) than the stock filter, but fit the space for it without issue.\n- The threads and how it fit were absolutely no problem.\n- There is a sticker in the box I got for when to change the filter (I hadn't noticed before I took one from the Samsung box).\n\nThere was a tiny tube of what I believe is silicone grease, there may be enough for the next filter, which will be the Samsung stock replacement I got at the same time.  I'll try to remember to followup but it will be about 3 years, based on our usage and its gallon rating.\n\nWe use about 26 cups of water per week (mostly for coffee, some ice) which means this 300 gallon filter should last about 3 1/2 years.  I don't see any reason to change it early, so I'll add 2015 after the July sticker with a Sharpie; this will give us about 2 gallons per week so I have a margin.\n\nOur usage may be lighter than some folks, we like to filter out the minerals from tap water that would get in the coffee maker, and of course our ice comes through the filter, but we cook with tap water.  Check your own usage, don't use my numbers!\n\nMy fridge has a light that comes on to indicate it is time to change the filter, but it comes several times before it is really time to change it.  I don't know how they determine when to light the light, so I ignore it and go by the date on the filter.\n\nGood news, my wife looked at what it filtered and figured out that the stock filter does not filter out fluoride, this one should be the same as they both are described as blocks of carbon.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3136, "id": 88583, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3137, "id": 31064, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 441, "len_tokens": 580, "text": "This little \"stinker\" is fantastic.  It performs as advertized, and cranks out ice \"bullets\" quickly.  You can adjust the size of the \"bullet\", Large, Medium and Small.  The ice compartment does NOT keep the ice cold, however, so it melts back into water and recycles through.  There is an easy-to-access drain plug so that you may drain away stale water and replenish (tip:  I just chuck the cubes in the sink until there is little water left in the bin, and then rinse the bin out and replenish with fresh water, rather than draining lots of old water.)\n\nI call this ice maker a \"stinker\", not because I am being cute or funny, but because it took a good two to three WEEKS before the smell of electrical components/manufacturing stink/plastic odors to dissipate from this machine.  Before purchasing this little guy I read many reviews on other makers, as well as this one, and all the reviews discussed the \"stink\" of this little guy, so I was aware I would have to deal with it, but was surprised when VINEGAR, DILUTED BAKING SODA and PURE/FRESH LEMON JUICE didn't cut it!  Other reviewers/posters said they ran lemon juice through once and they had perfect tasting ice -- yeah... they probably poured Coke over the ice and disguised the nasty taste!  Honestly, it took me almost three weeks of running alternating vinegar and lemon juice to get the taste and the SMELL out of this machine.  And I don't mean just the smell and TASTE of the ice -- this little STINKER stunk up the entire breakroom with that funky (warehouse/manufacturing) odor; it was noticeable.  That odoriferous stank is now gone completely. Thank you oh wonderful dissipating gasses.\n\nOh, regarding the manufacturer of this product:  When XYZ delivery company delivered this to the office, I actually watched the driver DROP the box in front of the door when he went to pull the handle of the door so he could open the door.  OOPS!  Well, very long story short, the box had, of course, a crushed corner.  Upon opening the box, right-hand side back corner of the lid was broken and pushed in.  Called the company right away and said, hey, this piece of equipment is damaged.  We determined that its ice-making function was not damaged, and the person I spoke to at the company asked me if I could \"Live with the blemish\" and I said yes, the company took a hefty credit OFF the price of the unit.  They were very easy to deal with on this issue and very accommodating.  I would purchase another product from them in the future.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3138, "id": 426633, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 407, "len_tokens": 522, "text": "So, I have always purchased SAMSUNG DA29-00020B filters for the refrigerator, and this is my first foray into using an off-brand.  I ordered it, and will update this review as time progresses.  It may take a while, as the filter probably won't need to be changed for about 6 weeks.\n\nUpdate (19 Feb 2017): Just installed this a few days ago.  No problem installing it at all. The instructions say to run 3-5 gallons through the filter. This is a bit difficult, since we can do about a quart at a time. We did run 12 quarts (3 gal) through. I'm not sure of the purpose of this; the instructions seem to indicate that it is to ensure that there are no air bubbles left -- they seemed to go away after about 6 quarts.\n\nAs to taste, I'd deduct about 0.3 star; somehow, the SAMSUNG filter made our water taste absolutely WONDERFUL for a few weeks after the new filter is installed. It was something I always looked forward to. This didn't happen with the Ecoblue, but the water does seem clean, and comparable to the SAMSUNG after the \"wow\" taste wears off. I'm willing to give this up for the savings.\n\nThe other thing I'd deduct 0.4-0.5 star for is the noise. This filter is NOTICEABLY louder in the refrigerator. This is something we can get used to, as long as the filter holds up for the six months it is supposed to.\n\nUpdate (25 Feb 2017): This company gets a gold star for customer support -- they sent me an email in December asking about my purchase (but I hadn't installed it yet). I finally replied to them with the same information in the review above. They responded that it shouldn't be loud; that the carbon core may have become loose.  The new filter arrived promptly on the 23rd; I installed it, and the new one is quiet, like the Samsung.  Excellent work on their part - I'm moving the review to 5 stars!\n\nUpdate (Oct 2017): One drawback of (at least) that we accidentally discovered is that the filter change light doesn't function with this brand. We realized that we had gone past the replace date by many weeks, so we swapped it out for our last Samsung filter.\n\nUpdate (Apr 2018): The filter change lights ARE working with the Samsung brand, so it was clearly that filter.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3139, "id": 51532, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 494, "len_tokens": 595, "text": "I purchased this dryer 6 months ago to fit in a small NYC city apartment that does not have a 220 volt line that you would need for a full size dryer.  Based on a couple other reviewer's recommendations, I purchased it along with a separate clothes spin dryer that cost $150 including delivery.  I use the spin dryer prior to putting the clothes in the Haier dryer -- 3 minutes of use and it removes a huge amount of water and allows me to dry a full load of heavy fabrics in the Haier in no more than 45 minutes.  Lighter loads take 30 minutes tops.  That's great performance out of a 110 volt dryer and I couldn't be happier with my purchase.\n\nA few caveats about this dryer following 6 months of use:\n\n1.  You MUST clean the two-piece lint filter after no more than two loads.  If you don't, it cuts the heat of the dryer by at least 50%, and given that this machine is only operating on 110volts, it will take far, far longer to dry if you don't.  I discovered this after I  used it a few times and found it wasn't exhausting anywhere as near as hot as when I first used it.  After some troubleshooting I realized the problem was due to only cleaning one of the filters.  There are two separate filters that are attached to each other by a plastic disk.  One of the filters is hard to clean and after a bit of frustration trying to clean it by hand and with a brush, I discovered that using a small hand vacuum very quickly cleans it.  Now it just takes me a second.\n\n2.  It isn't as large as a full size dryer so if you are thinking about using it for more than 2 people, I would check around with other reviewers who are using it for a family to make sure it's practical for your needs.\n\n3.  There's a big difference between using a 110 volt and 220 volt dryer and I would strongly recommend buying an additional clothes spinner dryer along with this unit. (no, I'm not a shill for the manufacturer.)  I would bet the savings on electricity will more than pay for the $150 cost in a short time, and the additional unit is small (@ 2' tall X 13\" in diameter) so I am able to tuck it away under my bed.  I haven't used this dryer without the clothes spinner, but based on a couple reviewers frustrations with long dry times, I'm guessing I wouldn't be as happy with this product without it.  (There is only one company in the US that sells it but I guess for whatever reason Amazon doesn't want us posting other product links. If you google \"clothes spin dryer\" this product will pop at the top of search results.)\n\nAll-in-all really happy with this product and works perfectly for my needs.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3140, "id": 87135, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3141, "id": 457094, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 456, "len_tokens": 557, "text": "Having had electric ranges for the 45 years we've been married, this was a first for us in many ways. Gas burners heat all things on the store much faster than we had experienced, and that takes some getting used to. First, be very careful about handling the grates after cooking on top. They are extremely hot. Second, get yourself some frying pan handle covers so that heat from another burner does scald you when you pick up a frying pan. Last, when something boils over, cleaning the cooktop surface can be a real chore.\n\nThose may sound like negatives. They're not. They're just warnings for those of us (you) who haven't used gas before. Since I'm only in charge of rice, spaghetti, and scrambling my own eggs for breakfast, I can only tell you that there's nothing like cooking with gas. Once you get used to hot hot things get and how fast, turn down the burners and you'll come out with perfect omeletes.\n\nWe haven't used the convection oven much yet, but we have done chocolate chip cookies (what else would you experiment on?) by the batch, and they've been out of this world! Again, watch your timer: this stuff gets done really fast. Cakes are also fantastic. We know have gained 20% body fat in just three months.\n\nWant really good pizza? Use a pizza stone in the oven. The oven, btw, doesn't preheat any faster than a conventional stove. That will come in the next two generations of home appliances.\n\nThe broiler works pretty much like any broiler, but here's a warning that GE never thought of: for those of you used to cooking with electric for as many years as we, we've always been told to open the oven a crack while doing so. (There's nothing about this in the manual.) Well, if you do this on this GE, you'll melt the knobs which are just above the oven door. The vents for the oven are one design flaw and the reason why I gave this 4.5 stars. On the other hand, give GE 5 stars for customer service. They sent out new knobs FedEx as soon as they heard about our problem.\n\nKnobs aside, this is a beautifully designed range, and a beautiful range looks-wise. The front panel is the best we've had, and everything is laid out very handily and logically. We're really going to miss GE when it sells off its appliance unit. I don't know if this is something to consider before you buy this range, but I wouldn't worry about it for a while. My guess is that GE will have customer service for current buyers long after the appliance division becomes part of ... whatever.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3142, "id": 62635, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 485, "len_tokens": 573, "text": "Cooking (mainly Italian) is my hobby. My 16 year old GE radiant still worked but the amount of time it took to heat up and, most importantly, the amount of time it took to cool down was frustrating. The heating time could be blamed on older burners but it is typical for radiant cooktops to take quite a while to cool down. When I had something that needed to be heated to boiling and then reduced to a simmer I had taken to turning on two burners -- one on medium or high and the other on low and moving the pan between them.\n\nI would have thought about a gas stove but my kitchen is not plumbed for gas. When I saw the induction concept I was somewhat sceptical at first and bought a single burner induction cooktop to try the concept. I quickly became a convert. The induction cooktop will bring water to a boil in less than half the time of my old radiant cooktop and, more importantly, the temperature can be reduced immediately. And when I say \"immediately\" I mean immediately. One can go from a rolling boil to no boiling within seconds (see video here - [...]).\n\nI had to have my electrical supply to the cooktop upgraded from 30 to 40 amps for the cost of about $800 and I can truly say that this cost and that of the cooktop has been well worth it.\n\nSince most of my cookware was not induction capable I did need to buy some more but that was a relatively minor cost. Besides, after 30 years of marriage my wife now has new things to give me for presents ;-)\n\nGE has a great product here. The large burner on the right will go to 3200 watts and will bring 4 - 6 quarts of water to a boil in 10 - 15 minutes. The cooktop looks great and functions even better. GE customer support was fantastic. The induction cooktop is supposed to fit right into a cutout for the Profile line but, prior to ordering, I emailed them to get the exact dimensions of the cutout necessary for my old cooktop. It took a few days but they did research it and emailed me the information.\n\nBoth GE and Thermador have very useful information and videos on their web sites for anyone interested.\n\nAddendum: 1-22-13\n\nI thought I would update this review after seeing reviews on some other items with comments asking for longer term evaluations. Gosh, has it been almost 5 years? Truly time flies. I still think that this cooktop is one of the best purchases I have ever made. It is still functioning perfectly (I hope that statement doesn't jinx me) and is still a joy to use. It looks as good as ever and I still smile when I use it. What more can I say?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3143, "id": 466314, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 412, "len_tokens": 503, "text": "This review is more for the shipping aspect of things than for the refrigerator itself.\n\nEdit:  I was looking back at details on the refrigerator and see that in its current form, it is being sold by a third-party seller at a price that is a good bit higher than I paid.  My following notes about shipping apply only to my experience, which was sold by and shipped from Amazon.com.  I can't vouch for how it works out with a different seller/shipper.\n\nI was nervous about buying something so large and expensive from Amazon, but it worked out well. It was shipped via freight, I had it delivered to my workplace where there is a loading dock, then brought it home from there.  That also allowed me to be there to check it out for any damage upon arrival...plus I'm sure you would have to be home to accept delivery anyway!  So...if you're wondering about buying such a thing from Amazon, you can order without fear.  I'm still amazed at the price, considering they included shipping for free!\n\nI bough it to replace a 25-year old RM2500 that finally sprung a leak in the cooling unit.  Works as well or better than the original, considering the original had developed a tendency to trip the GFCI breaker when running on electric and wouldn't cool as well on gas despite doing everything possible to get it working better.\n\nThere is only one con I can make note of...even though every single note indicates the dimensions are identical to the RM2500, it is just a little bit deeper, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.  When slid into place, if you line it up with the old holes for the rails at the back bottom, it is still sticking out into the trailer.  I ended putting strips around the outside to build it out enough to make it fit.  Then I had to work out all the sealant that was used to protect the gas line so it could slide back a little even then.  Of course that meant the gas line had to reach a little bit further, and that was a pain to stretch enough and get connected...then of course I had to protect the gas line where it came up through the floor again.  So...it was a bigger headache than expected, but it works great.  If you're replacing another RM2510, and probably even an RM2501, I wouldn't expect any problems such as I experienced.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3144, "id": 539686, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 408, "len_tokens": 512, "text": "Despite being serviced by the retailer twice since our 2015 purchase, we've never been able to get this Frigidaire Gallery 18.3 Cu. Ft. refrigerator/freezer to work right. Everything in the freezer compartment constantly gets iced over with frost.  The temperature is unstable, mostly way too cold.  No matter what temperature we set it at, our ice cream will be rock hard 80% of the time and super soft 20% of the time.  In fact, in order to attempt to adjust the freezer temperature, we've had to apply a hot air blow dryer to the emptied freezer, because the slider freezes solid in to place.  We keep it at the warmest setting, to no avail.\n\nItems placed on the top shelf rear of the refrigerator occasionally freeze and, if a full glass jar, that breaks the glass, eventually leading to pickle juice or whatever melting down on to the lower shelves. That's with the refrigerator set at medium or warmer temperatures.  Produce in the bottom drawers occasionally freezes as well; we've had to throw out at least a half-dozen frozen heads of lettuce in the year we've owned the piece of junk. On the other hand, I sometimes pull the carton of soy milk out of the fridge and find it barely cooler than room temperature.\n\nWe've tried making sure the vents in the back are clear and keeping the freezer less than 1/2 full.  It doesn't make any difference.\n\nThe bottom produce drawers are made of very flimsy plastic.  I'm sure they won't last long.\n\nWe installed the manufacturer's optional ice-maker.  The thing makes an incredible amount of noise.\n\nWhen the first service tech came out (an independent contractor of the retailer), he said that Frigidaire had been purchased a few years back by Electrolux, and within a couple of years after the purchase, the quality of Frigidaire refrigerators and freezers began to noticeably deteriorate.  He indicated that the freezer door on these Gallery models is known to pop open slightly when the refrigerator door is closed, causing leakage and the freezer motor to work overtime.  He adjusted the door and said it should work better; it did appear that the air pressure from closing the refrigerator door stopped causing the freezer door to pop open a crack, but that didn't stop the problem with excessively cold temperatures in the freezer and everything frosting over constantly, etc.\n\nSave yourself a headache and avoid Frigidaire Gallery refrigerators and freezers.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3145, "id": 98476, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 424, "len_tokens": 539, "text": "We've had this fridge for 5 months, purchased in April 2011.  The ice maker reservoir is too small.  We can only get about a cup and a half of ice cubes.  It makes ice fast (11 minutes) when it chooses to, but not necessarily right after I've emptied the reservoir and actually need more ice.  It spews crushed ice all over the floor, even when I have the cup/container shoved right up under the dispenser.  The ice partially thaws in the reservoir and then re-freezes, locking up inside the ice dispenser, so nothing comes out.  Thawed water leaks out of the dispenser into the overflow reservoir, which fills up, so water drips down the front of the fridge onto the hardwood floor.  Having ice/water available on the front door of the fridge is TOTALLY NOT WORTH IT.  The repair person has been here twice, is coming back to install the ice maker upgrade kit, which I'm pessimistic about.\n\nAdditional problems are:  the crisper drawers don't open very wide, so I can barely squeeze larger heads of lettuce or broccoli into the drawers.  The flap that seals the french doors close keeps flipping open, so I have to flip it back into place by hand before closing the door or else there's a loud 'clap' when I try to close the door.  I imagine this will eventually damage the front of the opposing door.  When swinging the right-side door closed (which everyone on earth with a fridge does multiple times a day), the door won't close all the way.  Just stops, sitting open 2 inches.  Needs a second shove to close all the way.  The trays inside have edges that flare up a bit, supposedly to contain spills.  These do, in fact, restrict the usable shelf space you have.  The salesman said, 'oh some of your containers may tilt a bit, but it's no big deal.'  Well, it is if you want to stack anything on top of said container, which you'll need to b/c the interior capacity is so small.  I've now taken one of the shelves out completely, just so I can stack things higher inside.  There is very little storage in the doors, especially b/c of the ice/water dispenser.\n\nThis is only the second time I've been compelled to write a review on Amazon about anything.  I just wish I'd stuck with a traditional fridge with one fridge door (not french door) with no ice or water dispenser and normal flat shelves.  But be warned, this fridge is JUST NOT WORTH IT.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3146, "id": 183990, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 493, "len_tokens": 597, "text": "UPDATE:  It's now November 2017 and my dishwasher is still going strong.  I have very hard water (well water with filter and softener to give you an idea) and the only thing I have replaced was the connection to the faucet.  Ordering this part was effortless and a breeze to install.  I plan on using this for another huge Christmas meal as I have every year.  The interior has held up remarkably well, one rack shows a little wear in the corner, but does not affect performance.  All in all, and outstanding little dishwasher that I have put through the paces and it has exceeded my expectations.\n\nI received this counter-top dishwasher for Christmas, on the same day I was to prepare a standing rib roast, 2 whole chickens, and country style ribs and all the fixings for  10 people.  Needless to say, I put this dishwasher through its paces that night.  Yes, I had to reload several times, but for once I could entertain while my dishes were being done. I also have to admit I shoved several dishes into the EdgeStar 6 which wasn't necessarily \"recommended\" by the manufacturer, but they came out sparkling.\n\nI had a little issue with cloudy residue on my dishes which was easily remedied by cutting down my detergent in half (which makes sense, considering the machine itself is half the size of a conventional dishwasher). I had purchased a tub of Cascade complete pacs and found that if I cut them in half and saved the other half for the next washing, the dishes turned out perfectly.\n\nOn one occasion, my dishwasher leaked from behind at the hose connection.  Now, before I do a load, I quickly check the hoses are securely tightened (super easy to do) and have not had a problem since.\n\nCleaning the interior, filters, and wash arm is effortless.  The stainless steel interior does not hold odors and cleans easily as well.\n\nThis dishwasher is easy to connect and disconnect from the faucet, just remember to turn off the water before disconnecting.  It is not as much a tragedy if this happens, but comedic...and you will probably never forget to turn off the water again.\n\nThe Edgestar 6 is not overly noisy.  The only time it may be noticeable is when water is discharged into the sink.  I take advantage of the water discharge by putting dirty dishes waiting for the next load that need to be rinsed under were the water discharges!  Can't do that with a regular dishwasher.\n\nThe pause function is very useful and I have been thankful for this feature SEVERAL times.\n\nI have been very pleased with my Edgestar 6 and highly recommend it for small families, empty nesters, or someone who does not want to spend the money for a built in dishwasher.  As far a compromised counter-space,  it's small enough to move it if you need to (or get a rolling cart).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3147, "id": 451899, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 504, "len_tokens": 572, "text": "I got one of these about 2 years ago and have used it nonstop in my office ever since.  I never had a problem and it is still going strong.\n\nIt takes almost a full day to get really cold when you first plug it in but then it keeps the cans cold, slightly above the 32 degrees freezing point as others have stated.  Any colder and your beverages might ice up when you open them so this is perfect for me.\n\nWhen you set it on a carpeted floor, beside a file cabinet, or under a desk the noise of the fan is barely audible, however when you set it on top of the desk it is noticeable and might bother some.  I prefer to keep it on top of my desk in the corner since I have the room and the noise is more like a soothing white noise that is relaxing and it feels odd if I ever turn it off.\n\nIn order to ensure cold beverages you should fill it up every day because it can take a full day to cool down the new cans.  The push buttons work pretty well but once in a while you have to hold them in or press a second time to get the can to drop.  If your desk is not level or the unit is sitting on top of something then the slope could be off which would make the cans drop a little slower, so it might help to elevate the front edge slightly.\n\nThe only minor issue is that our office air is somewhat humid so the moisture in the air condenses inside the refrigerator.  There isn't a drain tube of any kind so about once a week I wipe up the excess moisture from the bottom shelf with a small napkin.  If you forget to wipe it out then the moisture will eventually leak out of the front of the unit but it is only a small amount, roughly 1-2 oz. each week.\n\nAlso, the cans on the top shelf do fall fast and land with a clunk (like a real vending machine) so they can sometimes be a little fizzy when you first open them.  To soften the impact I cut a piece of sponge material (or handi-wipe or dish cloth) about 12\" wide and 4\" deep and placed this on the bottom shelf all the way in the back.  This softens the impact of the cans when they fall, absorbs some of the noise, and also soaks up the moisture so it is easy to remove and ring out once a week.  The sponge is also handy to wipe down the outside of the unit so I recommend it as an accessory.\n\nBest money I have ever spent on an office gadget.  Now I can have all the special diet sodas that the vending guy refuses to stock in our machines.  Almost every coworker that sees it will complement it and ask where to get one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3148, "id": 100303, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 431, "len_tokens": 500, "text": "This became a buy out of last resort a few days ago after we realized last Friday that the laundry room at our apartments caught fire in a freak accident, and so my mother and I spent the better part of 5 hours and 3 rolls of quarters at the laundry matt. We decided this was just not a good way to spend our days off or our money, especially since she and I both work full time. So among asking our friends for help, we decided it was time for an alternative for the smaller clothes, but we didn't want to run up our electric bill or eat into our budget in a big way by getting a washing machine that we could never fit in our apartment, nor afford (not to mention, the conventional washers wouldn't work in our place anyway because it doesn't have anywhere to hook it up to).\n\nSo far we've only done 2 loads in the thing, so a lot of what I say is based on first impressions. Like others have said, it doesn't really come with any detailed instructions to put it together, so I kind of had to figure it out. It isn't really that hard to figure out though, so as long as you have some basic common sense. That said, I followed someone else's advice on a previous review and did about 200 turns with detergent, and then another 200 with new water as a rinse cycle. This seemed to get my clothes almost perfectly clean (and I was washing underwear too). It's a little bit of a chore to run the Wonderwash with the handle, but I can fit about four shirts, plus some small items in without a problem, so when I consider the fact that it takes me 15-25 mins to wash my clothes with this (which is in my house and free), and much much longer to go to the laundry matt, it's worth it. I will say, I've only used this in the bathtub, but the suction cups work extremely well. They clamp on incredibly tight, but can be easily removed when you pull on the tabbed area on them. I will also say that the lid seal locks very tight as well. I haven't had any problems with water spilling on my machine. When I'm done washing, I just attach the hose, unseal the lid, and let it drain. Ring out your clothes a bit and give it about 8 - 12 hours to properly dry, but then you're good to go.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3149, "id": 464665, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 449, "len_tokens": 533, "text": "Had this about six months now and am satisfied thus far. Glasses and dishes look great. I purchased an extended five-year warranty in case I run into the troubles others have stated. Top rack \"rows\" seem a bit thin (having trouble getting those \"Friends\" sized coffee cups to sit right.) Also has trouble accommodating small bowls. It can't seem to cradle them like my old dishwasher could.\n\n- Great looking! (mesmerizing blue lights when it runs in the dark)\n- Stainless finish inside\n- Seems quiet enough for me\n\nIf installing yourself, you'll need ...\n* A five dollar 90 degree elbow fitting which is NOT supplied.\n* If you're plugging it into a socket, you'll need to buy the three prong appliance cable and romex connector to hold it in place. There's a hole in the back of the unit which I ran the cable through before connecting (at least, that's what I THINK it was for). I wrapped some extra electrical tape where the wire touches metal in case it gets hot.\n* I needed a star shaped (torx) screwdriver for something (sorry, I can't remember for what).\n* I also needed a three-inch rubber hose adaptor thing where it hooks to the bottom of the sink. The old one was dry and unusable.\n* Make sure the sound deadening blanket that covers the top and sides doesn't bunch up when you push it in.\n* You'll wish you had a stubby socket set to adjust the legs ... although you can use pliers if your knuckles can take it. There's a foam/cardboard z-shaped sound deadener that needs to be installed properly on the bottom. That's why you need to play with the height of the legs. It was tricky to get it right. There's adjustable wheels on the back too which I hadn't realized until after installation. Maybe that would have made things easier.\n* I used an air conditioner foam strip where the top meets the counter to fill in the gap and deaden more sound. I'm not saying you should ... and I hope it's fireproof!\n* I was able to reuse my dishwasher water supply line and of course, I broke some plumbing pipes under the sink ... so back and forth to the hardware store I went,\nI'm NOT a professional installer ... I'm just telling you what I did, so read the instruction manual carefully.\n\nGet in the habit of grabbing the bowed handle in the middle lest rings scratch the stainless surface when reaching for it.\n\nI'm giving it fours stars because my wife loves it ... but I wish the racks were designed to hold items better.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3150, "id": 276886, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 476, "len_tokens": 597, "text": "First off, I didn't choose this to save money.  I carefully chose this filter after reading the reviews of both the Samsung brand filter and the reviews of all of the \"generic\" or non-OEM filters.  Many of the reviewers who purchased the Samsung brand for years, indicated a recent design change that once installed damaged a part inside their refrigerator causing them to have to replace a part that ended up costing them $300.  Some contacted Samsung after experiencing leaks and were told that they needed to upgrade their units with parts that would make it compatible with the \"new and improved\" filters.  Others indicated that the Samsung fifty dollar filter only lasted two months before the \"change filter\" indicator light came on (wth? $600 a year for refrigerator filters? Not going to happen).  It was for those reasons that I chose this filter over the Samsung brand filter.\n\nINSTALLATION\n\nI didn't shut off the water, because the instructions indicated it wasn't necessary.  I turned the old filter one quarter turn counter clockwise.  I couldn't pull it out myself.  My husband had to help me and it even took him a few minutes to pull it out.  Remember to only turn it a quarter turn, turning it farther can damage parts inside your unit.  Once we got it out, we lined up the new filter by looking at the end and the inside of the fridge and sliding it straight in and giving it a quarter turn in the clockwise direction.  DO NOT OVERTURN, AS THIS CAN DAMAGE YOUR REFRIGERATOR.  Then we ran a couple of gallons of water thru the new filter.  This will flush out the new filter and get all of the air out of the lines.  Last, I held the ICE TYPE/WATER button for three seconds to reset the filter change indicator light.\n\nNOTE:\n\nOur water dispenser had ALWAYS DRIPPED from the day we bought our new refrigerator.  We owned it for a year before the \"change filter\" indicator light came on and we did this first filter change (I know, bad).  For the first time since buying our fridge, it doesn't leak!  It may be this new filter, or it may be my husbands suggestion that I move the dispenser button to the ice position after dispensing water and leave it there when not dispensing water.  Either way, the drip is gone!  So if you have a drip, give this a try.\n\nONE LAST (IMPORTANT) NOTE:\n\nThe water is clear and tastes clean.\n\nFOR REFERENCE:\n\nI have a Samsung 3 door unit, model #RF263TEAESG/AA\n\nNow to get rid of that dent in my door!  Ugh!  I ordered a Samsung metal logo (for $2.99 from Ebay as I couldn't find it on Amazon) to cover it.  Dent doctor didn't think he could fix it.  Anyone else have dent repair luck?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3151, "id": 68550, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 488, "len_tokens": 580, "text": "My husband, the chef in the family, wanted this particular model and no other. We purchased this product in mid September 2011 and it was delivered by the end of the month. Within one month, we were already having problems with it: error codes occurring during the middle of cooking and having to turn the breaker off and on in order to continue cooking. By early December, I was at Lowes trying to return it. I was told that there was only a 30-day return policy on appliances, however, luckily I had purchased the extended warranty. In January 2012, the entire control assembly for the stove had to be replaced. A couple months later, during cooking, suddenly water would pour out over the right side of the control panel from inside the top of the stove! I don't know if condensation was building up or what, but I started keeping a camera on the video mode at ready in the kitchen to prove to the repair tech's that I wasn't crazy and that yes, it was possible. They finally came out, tore the entire top off and I don't know if they sealed it better or what, but it hasn't done it since then. Then last week, while baking brownies in the oven, the display panel started flashing an error code that involved the stove--and I wasn't even using it at the time! If any one else has one of these ranges, they understand that when an error code is displayed, it is accompanied by an incessant beeping noise. Therefore, while I have now been waiting over a week now for the new control assembly to arrive (the second one in less than a year), I still cannot use the oven/range at all and I still have at least two more days to wait. Bear in mind, I take very good care of this range and even the repair tech told Electrolux rep's that after 8 months, it still looked brand new. Yes, they had inferred that I was mistreating this range. After three repairs for the same part, this range will be \"lemoned out\" and since I still have over 2 1/2 years to go on the warranty, I'm pretty sure that is going to happen. I'm only hoping that by then Electrolux has fixed the problems with this unit and I get one that I can actually rely on. Even then, I still wouldn't do without the extended warranty. I now consider these a must for any so-called \"smart appliance\". One more thing I never learned about till after I purchased this unit. This unit will constantly vent air from the front while the oven is in use. I assume this is to stop the glass top from breaking or possibly damaging circuitry. It is very annoying, especially when one is in front of it and trying to cook on the stove at the same time.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3152, "id": 94870, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 474, "len_tokens": 558, "text": "We purchased two of these for our new home and were more excited to get them than any other appliance in the kitchen.  We bought them in January but left them at the dealer until May when the kitchen was finally ready.  The units were installed by a professional plummer and after that the problems began.  Keep in mind that we installed 2 of them in May and it wasn't until August that factory service was able to get one of them working (one of them!) the other one is still not working and it is now October.  I believe we have about one and half months left on the warranty.  The repair service has been here somewhere around 10 times though I've lost count.  On the one that doesn't work they have replaced nearly every part but the case.  The repairman was supposed to be here yesterday and once again we made sure someone was here all day, but as usual we were at the end of the line and delays caused him to not make it.  They called to reschedule and guess what?  They can't schedule the next appointment for over 3 weeks!  Fisher/Paykel has tried fairly hard, even sending a regional factory technician out to fix them, but after two trip (800 miles round trip each-driving)he was unable to fix one of them.  I called the F/P service line and they were down right rude (well I should say the woman I talked to was as helpful as possible, and the guy I talked too was unbelievably rude  Apparently, at least if you can believe the service rep on the phone, he is as high up in the company as you can go.  I suggested that F/P might consider exchanging the dishwasher for a new one (though you could argue they have one piece at a time) but apparently that is not an option.  It's strange because the warranty so far has to have cost them at least double the cost of the dishwasher.  Just as an aside, we purchased the ones that you can add your own cabinet front too, and put expensive horizontal grain maple on them.  The dishwasher leaked over the top and ruined the wood veneer (which F/P is not doing anything about).  I was told by service that the dishwasher wouldn't do that so it must be something I did (they are always ready with a good suggestion it seems).  I am bitter, there's no question about it; we wanted to love this product but a combination of poor quality and bad service has caused us to wish we had never even considered them.  Hope they get the one fixed before the warranty runs out.  Oh!  By the way, the washing capabilities are only about as good as a really inexpensive ($250) dishwasher.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3153, "id": 478729, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 501, "len_tokens": 596, "text": "Please don't buy these Bosch dishwashers. After rave reviews by Consumer Reports, this seemed to be the best line.  After having this dishwasher for only 3 months, I want my 25 year old Maytag back in the worst way! Bosch needs to have people who USE these dishwashers design the interior.\n\nI am sorely disappointed in our new dishwasher. It is quiet. It cleans. End of compliments.  Bosch needs to take a lesson from MAYTAG! They knew / know how to build a dishwasher rack!\n\nThis dishwasher has the smallest and worst interior design I could ever imagine! We are real  people with every day glasses with rims of 2-3/4 inches and 3-1/4 inches,and they don't fit anywhere without falling over as you wait for your dishwasher to get full. These racks do not glide, they jar when pulled in and out. I have broken NUMEROUS glasses and coffee mugs. The glasses fall over hitting against each other. We have Corelle plates, medium plates, bowls, cups and ordinary silverware. One should be able to line up several of the same item without scattering the items all over the top and bottom rack trying to fit them in somewhere and make sure they will be secure. As an example, IF you put a couple of cereal bowls on the prongs in the upper rack toward the back left side, there is no way glasses will fit along the side.\n\nThe rack size is way too small & they feel cheap. The prongs are too short and placed in such weird places. The exterior sides and bottoms of the racks have HUGE gaps in that things fall through. The wine glass gizmo does not work for me and takes up precious space. Not everyone has wine glasses and those fold-down stem holders don't even work with my multi style wine glasses. IF you put wine glasses in the rack the 4-5 inches along the right side of the upper rack is wasted. When I put a wine glass in the front of the top shelf it protruded through the front of the rack and it broke when I closed the dishwasher door. IF you don't put wine glasses in the upper right side, ordinary glasses will not even fit on that skimpy ledge. The prongs next to that are short and the glasses won't stay standing up. I have found no good place for 16 oz. water glasses.\n\nThe thing beeps and beeps and beeps when it is done running. You have to manually press the off button for it to stop and the lights to go out.\n\nI think there should be a recall on these Bosch racks and that the company should replace every one of them.\n\nI don't know where Consumer Reports got their reviews. I like the idea of going to normal people who actually use and load a dishwasher every day. I would never purchase a Bosch dishwasher again and I feel 'stuck' with a $799 dishwasher.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3154, "id": 82093, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 327, "len_tokens": 519, "text": "Sadly, it only worked reliably for under 1-year, before it wouldn't always come on, and needed a smack when my refrigerator got warm...  I'm not unhappy with my purchase, as the appliance store wanted twice as much for the replacement part, I didn't know of any alternatives at the time, it single-handedly proved I didn't need to trash my whole refrigerator, and installation was drop-in simple and easy.\n\nLike everyone else, when I first installed this part, my refrigerator was freezing even on the highest setting, but taking off the plastic knob exposes a hole next to the shaft with a tiny set-screw inside.  Just turn the regular dial to the center, then turn the set screw either way until the refrigerator suddenly shuts off, and you're perfectly calibrated, no trouble at all!  Not sure why that's so difficult for everyone else here.\n\nWhen this replacement part failed, I already had a&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/20-digital-general-purpose-electronic-heating-cooling-thermostat/dp/B008KVCPH2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">$20 digital general-purpose electronic heating/cooling thermostat</a>&nbsp;from another project, so I figured out it would physically fit, and started installing it in my again-dying refrigerator.  NOTE: Amazon also has&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/a-nearly-as-good-and-Fahrenheit-version-now/dp/B00F05UI8O/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">a nearly-as-good and Fahrenheit version now</a>.\n\nNot having done it before, I spent a total of 3-hours testing, wiring, and lots of plastic cutting to get it installed.  It has worked for more than two years now, and gives me more useful information and precise control than this far more-expensive mechanical unit could. It even happens to give my 20 year-old refrigerator a super-high-tech look you can't get from any brand-new refrigerators.\n\nI highly recommend going for the cheaper, all-digital option.  The extra installation work is a significant downside, but once you do it, if the digital thermostat ever fails, a new one will be just a drop-in replacement.  The controls are more complicated, but unlike a mechanical unit, you only ever need to adjust it once, then you can forget about it entirely as it just silently does its job.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3155, "id": 88375, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3156, "id": 87863, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3157, "id": 56363, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 447, "len_tokens": 550, "text": "I purchased this kit and a 12' extension kit to clean the 21' from my dryer in the middle of my house to the outside vent. I had been avoiding using it, but the first day of fall begged for a project so yesterday I finally did it.  The results were as expected. The dryer vent system is now clean and the airflow from the dryer to the outside is at least 50% better.\n\nSome tips to using this product:\n\n Watch a couple of YouTube videos for 'LintEater' before you start.  It will give you a visual that the written directions just cannot.\n Read the written directions and then re-read them. You may have to make adjustments to the setup you use based upon your particular dryer and vent system.\n Use a leaf blower on the highest setting before you use the LintEater.  Blow from the pipe opening nearest the dryer to the outside by sticking the leaf blower inside the pipe and turning it on.  You'll be amazed by how much stuff flies out of the vent even before you use the LintEater product. Sort of a 'pre-clean' if you will.\n Gather the tools you'll need first.  For me that included a Phillips head screwdriver (to release the hose clamps on the dryer and vent pipe), leaf blower, two wrenches (to twist the two ends of the LintEater sticks together tightly), duct tape, a flashlight, and a shop vac.  Eye protection and a mask or bandana to cover your nose and mouth is also a good idea.\n Use small strips of duct tape around the connections between the sections of the LintEater. This will help prevent it from coming apart IN the pipe.\n Use your power drill on the lowest setting and go slowly, gently working it down the length of the pipe with short back n' forth motions.\n Always have your drill turning clockwise.  NEVER reverse it go to counterclockwise - even when pulling it out of the pipe.  This could cause the sections to come undone inside the pipe.\n Blow out the pipe with the leaf blower after using the LintEater to get fine particles out.\n When you are done, attach a clean dryer vent hose from your dryer to the outlet. Use your dryer's 'air' setting for a few minutes to continue to dislodge debris.\n\nNOTE: This product could also be used for the gutter downspout on your home.\n\nOverall, I'm very pleased with this product. If used properly it has the potential to be used for several years without the need for replacement. The product is high quality and easy to use.  Definitely a must-buy for home owners to prevent dryer fires.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3158, "id": 510643, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 482, "len_tokens": 571, "text": "Really disappointed in this product. I bought it in late 2014 after reading a few reviews. I couldn't find many details on the product online from the manufacturer, so I really only had the Amazon reviews to go from. I rarely take the time to write detailed reviews, but am in this case in hope that it helps someone not make the same mistake.\n\nYes, I know the product is very inexpensive and made in China. I knew I was in for a cheaper-than-usual vent hood, but this was far below my expectations based on the reviews and photos. I wish I'd forked over another $300 to buy a quality range.\n\nPreface: this was installed by two people - a skilled contractor and one of his crew members.\n\n1. The lights are LED, but they are BLUE. Not cool white that has a blue tint, they are full on electric blue. Absolutely hated it and I couldn't even stand to turn them on. Lights, after circulation of course, are the second main use for an over-range vent. The lights are actually built into the hood, so there is not an option swap them out. You could probably rewire it, and trust me, I considered this, but there are no screws that allow you to disassemble.\n\n2. The top part that slides up and down to allow you to customize the height from the ceiling. This piece is incredibly flimsy, the metal is thin and easily bent. There was a visible eyesore of 1/2\" gap between the top of the shroud and the ceiling. Our ceiling drywall is level so that wasn't the problem. There is not a way to screw or attach this sliding piece to the bottom shroud. You really have to be able to slide it up and down during the install, in order to attach the vent pipe from the ceiling. It\n\n3. It is not hardwired. Our contractor thought that was odd. Having to plug this in while installing and trying to simultaneously get the flexible vent pipe from the ceiling inserted into the hole, properly attached, was quite a feat. The plug kept falling out, and does not stay in. We had to take the entire thing down more than once just to plug it back in. Over a few months, the plug began to just lean out of the socket and worked its way out. The ground prong actually broke off!!! You don't want to install a non-grounded appliance that draws this amount of power, so we were going to have to change the plug.\n\nThis thing is more hassle than it's worth. Save your money until you can get a quality hood from a vendor that carries a warranty. It's vague as to how or if that was possible with this thing. I am not about to pay shipping to return this for another one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3159, "id": 87279, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3160, "id": 432013, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 174, "len_tokens": 531, "text": "I was very impressed when these filters arrived. The packaging was nice looking, the filters themselves appeared to be good quality and they worked great in my refrigerator as the description said. The product description was a little difficult to read through, so I have included it here sorted somewhat.\nProduct descriptions;\nThis is compatible can be used in refrigerator models from Maytag, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Amana, Jenn-Air, Viking, and more.\n\nReplaces Water Filters for:\n Amana: WF50, OWF50, WF51, OWF51, WF50-NI300, OWF50-NI300, WF50-KNI300, WF50-NI500, OWF50-WI500, WF50-WI500, WF50-KWI500, ASD2326HES, AFI2538AES;\n Sears/Kenmore: 46-9005, 4690005, 9005, 9005P, 46-9006, 469006, 9006, 9006P, 46-9992, 469992, 9992, 9992P, 469005750, 469005-750, 46-9005-750, 469006750, 469006-750, 46-9006-750, 04609005000, 04609006000;\n Puriclean II: 670032526, 67003527, 67003528\n Maytag (EveryDrop): PL-400 replaces UKF8001, UKF8001AXX, UKF8001-750, UKF8001P, UKF8001AXXP, 67002269, 67002671, 67003523, 67003526, 67003527, 67003528, 67003591, 67003727, 67006474, 67006637, 12589201, 12589203, 12589206, 12589208, 12589210;\n Whirlpool (EveryDrop): OWF51, WF50-NI500, WF50-WI500, 67003523, WF50-KWI500, WF50-NI300, WF50-KNI300, OWF50-WI500, OWF50-NI300, GI6FDRXXY07;\n Kitchenaid: 43966395, 8171032, 8171249, KBFS25ETSS01\n\nI received this product for free or at a reduced price for my honest and unbiased opinion.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3161, "id": 88247, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3162, "id": 182646, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 406, "len_tokens": 501, "text": "I can honestly say i have never hated an appliance before in my life, until now.  I have had some that were cheap, or didn't have certain functions or were noisy etc.  Generally speaking,  you get what you pay for in the appliance department.  Then, when my 18 year old maytag died, i splurged on this piece of crap.  From the very beginning there were issues with unbalanced loads.  I was horrified about how long and loud the loads were.  I had my poor husband on his hands and knees adjusting and readjusting to find the perfect balance.  after several months, a new digital level, and a degree in quantum physics to properly load clothes, we had a washer that was at least able to finish a cycle in under 2 hours.  Then i noticed that often times the clothes were just not clean.  I am a foster parent for a dog rescue and do a lot of dirty dog laundry.  There is nothing worse than taking a towel or blanket out of the dryer that still has dried dog poo or vomit on it. again after learning the astro physics of perfect water to poo ratio, i found that i had to wash all loads on \"bulky\" just to get enough water to clean off the dog mess.  Did i mention you have to rebalance the machine every few months?  yep......  anyhow back to this piece of crap.  my machine did not come with the fabric dispenser option so you have instructions on how to use the downy ball with the fabric softener option selected.  Don't bother.  it won't work.  your downy ball either won't open, or worse, it does but there is not enough water to dilute and half the clothes are covered in pretty blue blotches and will need to be rewashed.  FINALLY, after two long years of hating this machine, it looks like either the lid latch is going bad or the computer because now it won't do its final spin and you have to select 'drain and spin'  manually to finish the load which adds an additional 15 minutes to my wash time.  it was actually a relief because now i don't feel guilty about dragging this hunk of garbage to  the curb.  For now the dryer is working just fine but we are headed to Lowes to find a new machine.  I will never ever ever buy a whirlpool again!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3163, "id": 300514, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 386, "len_tokens": 504, "text": "For the smelly washing machine:  The hose is great quality btw  - replace the hose first and then you will need to buy a 115 VAC 120mmX120MMX25MM fan (eg AC Infinity AXIAL 1225, Cooling Fan, Low Speed) and buy an 120mmX92mmX80MM fan mounting adapter kit.  (eg. Akust Aluminum 80mm & 92mm to 120mm Case Fan Adapter Blue). both are available on Amazon. to add the fan:  Remove the top washing machine  cover (3 bolts on back and slide it fwd and lift off). Mount the smaller 80mm side of the adapter around the vent on back so it enclosed it.  There will be a small gap on one side and you can add a piece of rubber 3/4\" weather stripping ($4 dollars at lowes/Home D). After you add your weather stripping, line the holes up so you can catch metal on the washing machine.  pre drill the back of the washing machine (using slighter smaller holes thatn you mounting screws) by drilling through the 4 holes on the adapter.  Use some zinc hex screws and screw it in. Now mount the 120mm fan to the other end of the adapter.  It is a vent so you mount the motor so it exhausts and creates airflow out of the wash machine.  check arrow on fan for flow direction. (or plug it in before mounting to confirm flow direction).  Note - removal of the cover is so you can see where you are drilling so you do not drill into something you shouldn't.  This is the low speed fan that uses 8watts and they have a higher speed one with twice the CFM that use 18W and is an overkill in my opinion (too much energy usage).  Plug it into the wall and leave it on for years (do not unplug) you are leaving it on to dry out the passages to prevent mold from reoccurring. (so you want it to run 24/7).  The \"Washer Fan\" company has a patented magnet mount version that will be available in late 2016 for a $100 if you are not mechanically inclined and want to wait....  Additionally, some folks say washing with Borax with Tri Sodium Phosphate (TSP) in the HE front loaders will fix problem given the Phosphate's reaction properties with iron, sulfur,  etc", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3164, "id": 13958, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 419, "len_tokens": 507, "text": "Ok, no problem with the quality of cleaning the dishes what so ever.\nThe dishes are clean and allthough not completely dry, it does what it has to do. So this dish washer does its job well.\nWe are new with dishwashers so not much to compare with. But our machine leaks.\nWe have used it 8 times now. The first 3 times it was good, allthough again the dishes were not perfectly dry, but that not an issue for us.\nBut the 4th time it leaked a lot.\nSo we read the instructions one more time. It said we have to ad the RINSE AID. and indeed we have not used that. So I filled it with the rinse aid, and yes. The dishes were dry. Only thing. The bottle says to refill it once a month. There is a led (little light)to warn when the RINSE AID is low. The first 3 times ofcourse the led was shinning brightly. But after adding the RINSE AID the LED was off, after we started the dishwasher. But during that very first wash, the Led lighted up again. And the machine is still leaking.\nWe are happy with the machine, because with 3 kids it is an extra help for sure. We will call the support and ask them about the 2 issues. We can not replace the machine, because we live in Aruba. But maybe the seals can be replaced. I am a techncal guy and able to do it myself.\nI will let readers of this review know what the final conclusion will be.\nAgain, the machine works well; but the leaking is a problem. OK, with leaking we mean. We need to put towels around the machine to absorb the water. The towels do the job, but it is not the idea, I suppose.\n--------------------------------------------------------------------------\nIt is now April 2015, we are using this machine for years now .... It is by far one of the best buys we have done.\nAbout the leak....... We had it fixed by just a guy who does these kind of things... paid him $20 and it turned out that the door was not closed properly ... probably due to the shipping and the fact that it was up side down in the box(?)\nThe guy fixed it before I could count to 20..... just one screwdriver that was it. It has worked for us, almost everyday for years now ... never needed any repair. Very very very good machine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3165, "id": 382125, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 471, "len_tokens": 563, "text": "3 or 4 month update:  I'm still very happy with this hood and it sucks up nearly all heat, smoke, and steam, especially when using the back burners.  Cooking smells lingering upstairs have definitely been reduced compared to the microwave.  I am taking the rating down to 4 stars because I believe the lowest setting should be even lower while keeping high where it is.  75% of the time I use it on low, 20% on max, and 5% on 3.  IF low were even lower then I could utilize the speed control more.\n\nOriginal Review:\n\nI just installed this hood a few days ago so the rating is based on my initial impressions.  I am coming from a OTR microwave with a very loud and ineffective hood function even though it was ducted to outside.  The Typhoon is much quieter on its lowest setting and probably more effective than the microwave was on high at the lowest setting.  My duct work probably limits the highest settings on this hood but it seems to capture most steam and smoke.  The controls work well enough but it would be nice if the light didn't turn off when the vents were turned off.  The lighting itself is awesome.\n\nInstallation was not hard if you have moderate handyman skills.  If you are a novice at handyman work then you'll do some cussing, especially if you were alone like I was.  The biggest tip I have (stolen from other zephyr hood reviews) are to throw out the screws that came with the hood and get some hex head lag screws instead.  This will make it much easier to tighten them after the hood is in place.  The second tip is to make yourself a cardboard template of the hole location.  To do this flip the hood upside down without any duct adapters on and trace out the hood along with the holes.  Tape that to the installation location and you can drill right through the template.  Finally I had to modify the rear vent duct adapter because of issues with my own house so be prepared for that.  The hood also came setup for direct wiring so I had to install a chord.  There is a nice little junction box already there to do this but you'll need to buy the chord, screw on connector things, and a wire clamp.  Total installation time including changing out top vent for the included rear vent parts, rewiring, and mounting screw installation was about 2 hours.  Messing around with my ductwork added another hour but that's not the fault of the hood.\n\nLastly check for any whistling before putting the bottom cover back on.  Due to the duct modifications I had made there was an annoying high pitched whistle that was fixed with a piece of aluminum tape.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3166, "id": 88399, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3167, "id": 192609, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 434, "len_tokens": 505, "text": "I spent a silly amount of time making sure that I was ordering the correct replacement soap dispenser for our Kitchen Aid dishwasher. Whirlpool changed the part number so I had to chase that down a bit.  I had a terrible experience with Whirlpool Customer Service - terrible! I called and selected the phone tree choice for \"replacement parts\".  The fellow who answered the phone asked for the model number and then said that the part was in stock and would cost $110. I asked for the part number and he said, \"I am not allowed to give out the part numbers. When I pushed a little, he hung up on me. Instead, I used the online chat service on the Whirlpool website.  They were fast and sent me the schematic for the dishwasher complete with part numbers for all of the parts in the unit.\nI ordered the part from Amazon.com, it arrived within a couple of weeks via US Postal Service standard delivery.  It was not in a box, rather was packaged in a bag with the part placed in small bubble wrap. No instructions were included but if you go to youtube.com you can find some very nice videos if you search for \"replacing dishwasher soap dispenser\" and the model number. Apparently it must be something that wears out routinely because there were lots of videos available.  Beware: the inside door is made of stainless steel and once you remove the old dispenser the edges of the cutout are as sharp as the sharpest knife you have ever imagined. I was cleaning the gunk off of the edges where the old dispenser was located to assure a good gasket seal and my hand slipped and bumped the other side of the cutout.  The edge cut my middle finger knuckle down to the bone. A scalpel couldn't have done a better job. So just be super careful!\nPricing: Amazon.com did not offer the best best price but it was close and ordering from Amazon felt better than ordering from one of the other vendors I found while searching online for the part. It was only a few bucks more but I order from Amazon with more confidence.\nThe new soap dispenser looks a little different than the original part  the number of vents on the front is different  4 in the original and 2 in the replacement part.  It works perfectly!\nIf you are reasonably skilled this is an easy job to do yourself and save a service call expense. Total installation time: 20 minutes + 5 minutes of bleeding and bandaging.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3168, "id": 560723, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 377, "len_tokens": 550, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R3DWG15AKIM8LK\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D1aMHAZDMSS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/11htNCs0Z0S.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">I have been wanting to try an essential oil diffuser for quite some time.  I have been making my master bathroom more of a retreat and this little diffuser is just what I was looking for.  I am not sure why I am infatuated with my bathroom.  I will need to experiment on bedroom placement.\n\nWhats in the box?  The diffuser, measuring cup, power cord, and user guide.  I already had some oil ready and waiting.  We use a lot of different oils already for other things so I had plenty on hand.  You just need a few drops added to the water.  I put together a little video showing how to use the diffiuser  it is very simple.\n\nThis is a small diffuser, but its colors are quite vibrant.  There is basic white, red, green, and blue with all of the colors having a bright and dim version.  You do have to choose which color you desire as there is not a mode that changes the color automatically.\n\nSafety is a big concern for me so I am very pleased that it automatically shuts off when the water runs out.  You press and hold the mist button to turn it on and then choose how long you want the timer for.  You can choose between 60, 120, and 180 minutes.  It is not recommended to use it for more than three hours at a time which is understandable.  I found out the hard way not to just leave on small lamps.  I had a salt lamps bulb blow up on me a while back.\n\nAfter turning the diffuser on I was impressed at the level of mist output.  It is subtle and not overbearing.  I put in cinnamon right away.  I just love cinnamon.  I tested it downstairs and then I went upstairs for a while.  When I came back down, it smelled really nice.\n\nOverall, this diffuser works wonderful for a small space.  It is very pretty and I can use it anywhere in my home.  I did receive the essential oil diffuser discounted in exchange for my unbiased and honest review of the product.  My opinions are 100 percent my own.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3169, "id": 87255, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3170, "id": 88431, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3171, "id": 70792, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 484, "len_tokens": 592, "text": "Okay, let me start by saying that I've had a GE refrigerator (side-by-side, ice/water in the door, quick access door) for over 15 years before this one.  I always hated the side-by-side, but inherited it.  The french doors and freezer on the bottom is great.  I've got loads of space and can fit larger items into it very nicely.  The deli tray is very convenient as is the little shelf in the freezer door.  Also nice is the flip up shelf next to the ice maker and the slice back 1/2 shelf (had this on my s-b-s).  That all said, here we go...\n\nI don't mind the ice maker in the fridge at all, it is small enough not to take up much space and is a better option than Maytag offers on their models (where you lose the shelves completely from one of the doors.  I haven't had any issues taking out or putting the ice try back, and so far, no knocking (tho it hasn't been 8 months yet).\n\nOkay, now for the good, er bad stuff...\n\nNo egg container/storage provided.  Water access in the door works fine, but is a poor design.  You can't hold a glass upright as it will not sufficiently push the lever back to operate, and if you do push it back, your glass/container is tilted so you can't get an accurate read on how much water you have in your container.  The water catcher tray at the bottom of the area is too small and the tube the water comes out of is too short (can't conveniently refill water bottles, something that should have been considered in anything since the mid-90s).  There is no meat tray (I mean raw animal parts storage) in the fridge.  You have a fruit and a vegetable drawer (yeah you can pile them up and put the meat into the other one, but then you waste a lot of space as it is too big for fresh meat use.  The deli tray is also below it and for health reasons, the raw meat should be the lowest thing in the section.\n\nThe outside (of the Stainless Steel model at least) is NOT metal on the front, so there goes magnet space, be ready to use tape or something if you put kids pictures or schedules up there.  The sides are, so if they are not blocked, you may be able to use that area.  Me, I have a dented model and figured I'd put a magnet on the dented area to cover it, but had to resort to a sticker from the local hospital to cover the ding.\n\nAgain, functionally it is a good model, wish it had the quick access for milk and stuff, but that is a different model, so I'm overall happy.  GE service in my area has always been good when I've needed them.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3172, "id": 542126, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 434, "len_tokens": 519, "text": "I bought this Speed Queen ADG3SRGS gas dryer about eight months ago from a dealer who is located near where I live. One of the owners lives right across the lane from me.  The dryer is of such high quality, I cannot imagine it will ever test our neighborly relationship.\n\nA plumber ran the black iron pipe gas service to it and I had a vent put in the wall behind the machine---just up and slightly offset from the dryer vent outlet in order to make it easy to check the vent pipe.  I leveled the drier and connected the vent and gas connector to code requirements.\n\nThe dryer started right up and has been working flawlessly ever since. If I open the door soon after starting, I notice that the clothes are already WAY hotter than is the case with any other gas dryer I've ever run.  The unit seems to focus on getting more heat into the clothes drum---and less heat out the vent. It operates very efficiently.  Several months ago, I noted that the door latch was very stiff and required a heavy hand to close it. I gave it a tiny shot of Teflon spray---and its been perfect ever since.\n\nIts laundry partner is an older Maytag top loader----actually the very last of the good machines that Maytag was once famous for. If it ever needs to be replaced, there is no doubt in my mind that I'd get a Speed Queen washer to sit next to this dryer.  I am a bit of a \"laundry junkie\" and have two complete laundry setups installed in my house--upstairs and downstairs.  We all plan our lives around keeping ourselves from having to do the things we hate most.  Perhaps you take a cab because you dread the subway.  Perhaps you prefer vinyl siding because you hate painting.  I prefer collecting washing machines and dryers because I don't ever want to spend even five minutes of my time in a depressing laundromat.  I've even equipped myself with a manual clothes agitator and hand wringer in case of an extended power outage.\n\nI'm always checking out washing machines and dryers. I look at all the brands. I follow all sorts of discussions and ask people about the machines they own.  It's my conclusion that Speed Queen is simply the best equipment---by a hefty margin and for a very long time.  Speed Queen is not inexpensive, but it is worth every penny that you pay for it.  The pleasure of using good equipment will never leave you feeling like you paid too much for it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3173, "id": 57909, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 479, "len_tokens": 575, "text": "I recently had purchased an new Whirlpool High Efficiency washer and dryer.  The washer would wash the clothes and the dryer would dry the clothes just fine.  However, at random times the dryer would alarm for some unknown reason.  I had called my local dealer/installer and also stopped by his business and explained the alarm.  He didn't have any idea.  I really don't know if it was really an \"alarm\" or not since the control panel didn't show any alarm.  Whenever the alarm sounded (continuously a 1-2 second beep until the dryer was turned off or the door was opened for a few seconds and then closed again) I, or my wife, would go to the dryer and check it out by opening the door and checking the lint filter and insuring that the lint filter was not covered in lint (which it wasn't - we always ensured that the lint filter was clear of any remaining lint from the previous drying cycle).  Then closed the dryer door and it may or may not run a full drying cycle until the next random alarm sounded.\nI was searching on the Internet and stumbled across this item and thought that this may solve my problem.  It was relatively cheap ($25.45) and would not hurt to try.  My house is only 6 years old, so I wasn't sure that lint trapped in the exhaust pipe could be that bad.  While I was waiting on the item to arrive I decided to inspect the exhaust pipe from outside the house by shining a flash light inside.  However, I could not tell for sure that any of the pipe was clogged or obstructed.  My dryer exhaust pipe is made of thin wall 6\" PVC which leaves the wall in the laundry room and immediately enters a 90* turn downward the approximately 1-2' then to another 90* turn, then a straight run approximately 15 feet to the outside of the house.  HOWEVER, when the item arrived I proceeded to perform a cleaning.  First, I started from the outside with the dryer on air/fluff.  I could not believe the amount of lint that this system cleaned out (WARNING:  YOU SHOULD USE A FILTER MASK WHILE USING THIS ITEM).  Just cleaning from the outside to the inside as far as it could reach I was able to accumulate enough lint to fill a plastic grocery bag.  I then proceeded to clean from the inside out and another half plastic bag full came out.  WOW!  It's now been approximately two weeks since the cleaning and the dryer has not sounded a warning beep.  Yes, I would definitely recommend this product to keep around the house for use on a regular basis.  I am planning on using this at least twice a year from now on.  Thank you for taking the time to read my review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3174, "id": 240752, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 444, "len_tokens": 506, "text": "What a Money Saver!\n\nI had been dealing with dryer squeaking for a few months, thinking that it would just go away! Many people told me that I would have to replace my dryer. I knew there had to be a cheaper way to fix it. I attempted to lubricate the ball and socket in the back, but it didn't fix it. At that time, while I had my dryer apart, I noticed the belt was a little cracked, and that I needed to clean the rear heating element. I am SO GLAD I got an opportunity to clean that. I also cleaned out the vent really good and the internal compartment of the dryer.\n\nI decided to order this since it was way cheaper than replacing the dryer! I also figured it was a good thing to replace all the pieces that were wearing out. (My dryer is 13 years old.)\n\nEverything was packaged great and nothing was missing.\n\nIf you are not mechanically inclined, I would suggest finding someone to help you who is. I would also consider this a two person job. You might consider looking online to see if there are videos that can help you. This should take about an hour if you have a helper, and are mechanically inclined. I also cleaned the dryer enclosure the first time I had it apart.\n\nThe instructions that came with it were photocopies so they were a little hard to read. They did give a list of all the necessary tools and such. Here are a few helpful hints that I learned.:\n\nUse this time to clean out the enclosure. Be gentle with the heating element, but make sure to get all of the charred fibers.\n\nDont lose the little ball that goes in the back of the dryer! That bugger will roll to somewhere low and hide from you!\n\nMake sure you scrape the front felt off very good. The directions say that every last piece of adhesive should be removed, but it was hard to do without using harsh chemicals. I scraped as best I could, washed it well, let it dry, then used the adhesive in sections, laying the felt over it.\n\nThe new belt will be more snug than the old one. Dont pinch your fingers in the pulleys!\n\nPull the drum out the front of the dryer. (As seen in the picture.)\n\nMake sure someone is there to help you align the drum when reattaching it. Your arms will get sore fast while trying to hold it up with one hand and trying to dial the phone to call your partner to come and help you!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3175, "id": 368954, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 426, "len_tokens": 526, "text": "Honestly, reading the reviews I was expecting a hunk of junk but I really needed this item so I ordered anyways and hoped for the best. Here's my review: it has many different wash cycles to choose from and it's very customizable. The only thing that it doesn't have that I wish it did have is a \"plus water\" option. For heavily soiled clothes (or clothes that have a soured smell) that require more water to flush the undesireable smells out. The washing time seems very accurate which doesn't seem to be the case for many washers. If it estimates 45 minutes it usually takes right around that amount. The dry cycle is not accurate at all. It could say 1.5 hours and finally stop after 3 hours. It keeps going until the clothes are dried to a certain level so it could take 1 hour or 4 depending on load size and density. It is a condenser dryer. Meaning it heats the clothes up and instead of the moist, hot air leaving out of the dryer through a vent the steamy air is condensed into water and pumped out. It takes about 2-2.5 hours MINIMUM to get things about 90% dry. Your clothes will never be the 100% dry like using a conventional vented dryer so just expect that before you buy. Just a tip, when you first pull them out after a dry cycle they will feel really damp (maybe 60-70% dry) and if you don't know better you'll want to run them through again but if you just remove them from the dryer the remaining steam escapes from the clothes and after a minute or two they will feel about 90% dry. Because it doesn't dry them with dry heat, my clothes are all now luxuriously soft. Dry hest really makes clothes stiff. A couple downsides (in my opinion) the first 40-50 or so loades will have a slight rubbery smell from a rubber seal inside the unit. It will fade once you break it in. Another downside, it does not have a lint catch so you will have to pull soggy lint off the rubber seal often. It will take about 4 hours for a load. If you overfill, your clothes will come out of the dry cycle horrendously wrinkled. Jeans are the worst for wrinkling, 2-3 pairs per load tops. Still worth it for me to not have to go to the laundromat and it has a larger drum than my last combo! You can actually fit quite a lot in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3176, "id": 87839, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3177, "id": 88295, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3178, "id": 410363, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 420, "len_tokens": 507, "text": "I have no self-control when I go to the farmers market, so I often come home with way more stuff than I have room for in my fridge. Sometimes some bags get crammed in the back, and I forget they're there until it's too late. Enter this compact little refrigerator for the overflow.\n\nThe unit isn't especially heavy--I was able to move it into my garage alone, with the help of a dolly. I unpacked it and set it up alone as well. I'm a bit baffled by the optional little white foam \"foot\" that's supposed to prevent it from tipping over, but I installed it anyway, even though it doesn't reach the floor. I also had to shim up one of the legs, but since I don't know if that's because the slab in my garage is uneven or the legs are, I'm not docking a star for it.\n\nI had none of the problems some of the reviewers reported with dents, dings, failure to freeze, etc. The fridge started working as soon as I plugged it in, and I filled the ice cube tray and put it in the freezer to test it, and it froze solid within several hours. The unit is quiet and seems to work well. I haven't used a thermometer to check the temperature yet, however.\n\nIt's worth noting that the fridge was taller than I was expecting. I thought it was going to be the under-counter size, but it's considerably taller--more like a very small apartment refrigerator suitable for a studio or bachelor apartment. The shelves are lightweight, as someone noted--not the sort you'd want to test with something heavy--but they seem adequate for the kind of light duty I have in mind. There are also several positions for them so you can customize the spacing between them. The crisper unit seems a bit flimsy and doesn't seal all that well unless you pay close attention, but again, I don't plan to use it extensively. (It's large enough to hold maybe a head of lettuce and some veggies for a salad.) Ditto with the freezer--you have to make sure the door clicks shut to seal it.\n\nAccording to the accompanying Energy Star card, the unit is supposed to cost about $29 a year to run, which is peanuts. All in all, I'm very happy with it as an adjunct to my main fridge. I have no idea how long it will hold up, but fingers crossed. I think it's certainly worth the price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3179, "id": 330196, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 431, "len_tokens": 524, "text": "It is quiet and powerful. Much quieter than the old range hood or the built in fan in the Samsung over-range microwave it replaced (too little headroom). If anyone finds that it isn't moving enough air then it is possible they damaged the damper during installation or that they are using small diameter ducts. I had a 7\" duct straight through the roof, so I needed to fit an 8-7 reducer on top of the unit. To test the extractor fan I put a large frying pan with a small amount of water over the 18,000 BTU burner at the front of my range then got it boiling hard. With the fan at the highest setting (fans actually, there are two) the steam went straight up and vanished into the grates.\n\nMounting is a chore. This does not come with a template and getting the screw holes in the correct place is critical. I had a 3/4\" gap above the mounting plane, I used two 1x4x10 red oak blocks to fill that and provide a strong attachment point. Since this is America that 1x4 is really 3/4 x 3 1/2. The screw provided for mounting don't work under a cabinet. I now had 3/4\" oak then 3/4\" ply to mount to and the screws they supply would only really work in a brick wall. I used 1 1/4\" #12 wood screws started about half their length. Getting it lined up and hooked on then tightened in place was a two person job and quite frustrating. They should supply either pan head wood screws or some sort of toggle bolt to mount the unit. I am thinking of replacing the wood screws with bolts, tightening from below was a real pain in the back.\n\nThe grease collection design is pretty sweet. One review complains that the grills are hard to clean... they are designed to be run through the dishwasher, seams easy to me. The grills are designed to condense and drain airborne grease to a trough at the back of the unit which is easy to slide forward and out. The centrifugal fans also have grease drains which run down to the same troughs. From time to time you need to slide this forward and empty/clean it. At 30\" it won't be going in the dish washer.\n\nI bought this for the high airflow and the grease capturing design was a bonus.\n\nOn the down side the LED lights aren't very bright, they really need to spend a couple of extra bucks fixing that and provide better mounting hardware.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3180, "id": 181359, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 465, "len_tokens": 563, "text": "I think this is a great little machine. My apartment is too small for the Haier washer and dryer, which is what I'd originally wanted, so I decided to look into this plus a spin dryer. I read through most of the reviews before purchasing to make sure I was using it correctly. I filled it halfway with water, added a little detergent (about halfway up to the \"1\" line in most liquids seems right for my loads), spun for 2 minutes, then added the clothes, filled it the rest of the way, and spun for 15. Then I drain it, leave it draining to rinse the visible suds off, fill it completely, spin for 3 minutes, drain, fill again, and spin for 3, drain, wring, and dry.\n\nSeems tedious, and it is a little, but it's much easier than having to get dressed, carry my stuff down 4 flights of winding stairs, through several heavy locked doors, up a steep hill, wait an hour, then carry it back.\n\nFirst off, it will get your clothes very clean. Make sure you're using good detergent though. At first I thought it didn't work because my clothes came out smelling worse, but then I replaced my weird \"all natural\" detergent with Tide and my clothes come out cleaner than a regular washer. For size, this can fit way more than what I was expecting. I was able to wash a bath mat in in it last night, with room to spare. I could easily fit two pairs of pants and a few shirts, or a queen duvet cover plus two pillow cases in one load.\n\nWhen I first got it, I left it to run and came back to find water ALL over my kitchen counter. I thought it was a poorly made one and was leaking, however, it wasn't. For those of you having leaking problems, check to make sure you haven't overfilled it. The drain hose is a gravity one (you can see it on the right side in the photo, it has a little hook to the side) and the water pressure when it spins will push water out of the top. This seems to happen most often when the spin changes directions. If you're having \"leak\" problems, you're probably overfilling it. When it drips down the hose, it drips right under the machine so it often looks like it is coming from a leaking faulty machine. They could have fixed this issue with a cork or stopper in the hose.\n\nI bought a tiny little air dryer to go along with the machine, a Sunbeam from the 60's that is about the size of a small box fan, and that helps the clothes be fluffier when they dry, rather than rigid and stiff.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3181, "id": 103680, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 451, "len_tokens": 528, "text": "So far, I am very pleased with this beverage center refrigerator.  I think the company listened to some of the complaints and concerns of previous buyers and made some improvements to this model.  For instance, our unit does have leveling feet in the front.  The owner's manual does explain how to turn on the light so it stays on with the door closed.  (Unfortunately, the light bulb is still incandescent, not LED.  That would be a nice improvement but would probably add to the price.)\n\nThe wire shelves really aren't too bad.  After reading some of the reviews here, I was planning on putting some shelf liners in or cutting some pieces of plate glass to fit on them to keep the drink cans upright.  But again, I believe the company redesigned the shelves, adding more wires to them because we haven't had too many issues with cans tipping over.\n\nIn terms of performance, this unit is very quite and cools quickly.  No clicking sounds as others have reported.  I put a refrigerator thermometer in it so I could perfectly set the temperature.  Contrary to what others reported, you can make this unit quite cold.  I have it set to around 36 degrees F. according to the thermometer.  I have had no problems with the drinks freezing on the bottoms shelf.\n\nThe unit arrived well-packed, double boxed with no dents or cosmetic defects.\n\nOne thing that I think may be causing problems for other buyers: Be sure to let the unit stay in its normal, upright position for about 5 hours after unpacking it and before plugging it in and turning it on.  (This is not specified in the manual, except in one place that explains how to reverse the door so it opens the other way, and there it says to wait for one hour before turning the unit back on after tilting it backwards or laying it on its side.)  All refrigeration systems have oil in the compressor that can get into the coils when the unit is tilted out of the vertical position.  You need to let the unit sit for a few hours so all the oil can drain out of the coils and back into the compressor before turning it on.  Otherwise, you shorten the life of the compressor.  This may be why a few people complained that the unit was making loud clicking noises or not cooling very well.  We can barely hear the compressor when it turns on and the internal fan is nearly silent.\n\nI have only had this beverage center running for about a week, so if I run into any issues with it in the future, I will update this review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3182, "id": 88311, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3183, "id": 88087, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3184, "id": 183837, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 442, "len_tokens": 555, "text": "Oh little EdgeStar dishwasher, if it were possible to marry a household appliance we would already be Mr. and Mrs. EdgeStar at this very moment. We have been hand washing our dishes for nearly 5 years now and this odious chore was literally one of the only things that we fought about. I would rather clean the kitty box, paint the house, turn over the compost pile, scrub the floors or wash the windows than stick my hands in a sink full of tepid water and dirty dishes. I do all of the cooking, which I LOVE to do BTW and the BF is an appreciative audience, but after a hard day's work and a great meal and a couple of glasses of wine, neither one of us was thrilled about facing an hour's worth of hanging over a sink sweating through the washing, rinsing and drying of dishes, glasses, pots, pans, cutting boards, utensils, servingware, baking sheets, tupperwares, coffee cups, cereal bowls and assorted other crap. The BF gets up early so he goes to bed early. That means that I can't take an hour off and do the dishes at night. The bedroom shares a wall with the kitchen and the clanking of dishes in a metal sink wakes him up so we go to bed with a sink full of dirty dishes every night. Stuff gets crusty if it sits out all night. Putting the dishes in a dishpan and filling it with water results in dishes sitting in water that gets cold and slimy by the time one of us can get to washing them. Result? A sink full of dirty and or slimy dishes and an embarrassing MESS every single day!!! Enter the EdgeStar 6. Dirty dishes go in. Clean dishes come out. WHY DID I NOT GET THIS MAGICAL MACHINE 5 YEARS AGO!?! It takes me 10 minutes to clean up now. Our sinks are empty of dirty dishes. The entire kitchen looks and feels cleaner. It's tiny footprint is deceiving. Once you get the hang of loading this miraculous little machine, you will be shocked at the amount of dishes that you can fit inside. I made chilequilas tonight and I was able to fit my food processor bowl, lid and blade. 4 plates, 2 bowls, 2 wine glasses, 2 coffee cups, 2 large tupperwares, 2 small tupperwares (lids too),3 butcher knives, 2 spatulas, a cutting board, a cookie sheet, 2 serving spoons, a pair of tongs, a large salad bowl, a medium mixing bowl and an entire day's worth of knives, forks and spoons!!! This isn't just a dishwasher, it is a miracle!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3185, "id": 401931, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 479, "len_tokens": 579, "text": "OMG! I love this little washer. 11 years of going to the laundrymat and washing by hand in the tub in between trips. I am in love. I stayed up to 2am washing clothes yesterday, the day it came in. Dirty drawers never felt more like christmas. It holds a lot more than I expected. So far I have only used it up to the medium wash line, with the strength of the agitator I am afraid that filling it up to the high line might cause the water to spill out from under the lid. But (1) load washed 2 of my leggings size xl, 2 xl womens shirts, mens long johns, 2 boys school pants, 2 uniform shirts, 3 long footed fleece onsies for the baby, 5 t sirt onsies and about 8 pairs of socks... I probably could have fit a few more onsies in there, but I am still learning what works best as a full load. I even did a load with 1 pair of my husbands jeans (hes 6ft). 1 f his t shirts, a bunch of socks, about 4 onsies and some random socks. This I found since the jeans are heavy, you want to make a light load. I had to take a few onsies out because I felt it was too much strain on the agitator. The spin tub is small and you have to split the load up in 2 to spin dry... but the spin dry is fantastic. It gets so much water out. I swear I almost cried when I saw how clean the clothes came out and how dry they were left from the spin cycle.. NO MORE HAND WASHING AND HAND WRINGING!!! I set the washer on a bench and used the sprayer from my sink to fill up the water. This is a gravity drain tub, so the drain has to be lower than the machine. I use a 50 gallon sterilite storage tub to drain the water into, then dumped it in my bath tub. This is difficult, but I was so excited to use this thing, that I haven't really thought through the whole \"where am I going to put it\" scenario. I think it would work best to get a sturdy storage rack for my bathroom and store it next to the tub, and use my shower sprayer to fill the it. I found the hose to hook it up to your faucet to be useless, didn't fit and its so narrow that it looks like it would take a while to fill that way. The largest wash set to the highest water level says it takes 46L ... dude thats 23 - 2L pepsi bottles.. thats a lot of water.  But anyway.. awesome product. If you live in an apartment, I would highly recommend to buy this to anyone.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3186, "id": 310755, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 452, "len_tokens": 561, "text": "This machine is more headache than it's worth.  There are two people in the house and we live in an apartment/condo building built in the 50s/60's.  I thought having my own combo washer/dryer would be nice. I would no longer have to do my laundry downstairs and I would on longer worry about the timing of my loads or whose pulling my underwear out of washer or dryer because I was late coming back.  I've now owned this for 2.5 years and I regret purchasing it.  I've had the following problems: (1) I have to snake the drain about once a year.  The machine has a \"lint trap\" but it really doesn't work.  All the loose fiber washed out of your clothes, and there is a lot of it, goes down the drain (or gets stuck around the door opening - but 99% of it goes down the drain); (2) the rubber pad that you press to open the door split and ripped off.  You are only able to put your finger tips in the door.  Yet the pressure of my finger tips alone ripped off the door pad.  This happened within the first month of owning it.; (3) I recently had to call out a handyman to replace the pump.  That was a $340 expense;  (4) I now have to call out the handyman again because I'm getting a dE error  - the little research I did indicates that the door sensor is no longer working;  (5) The sensor for drying the clothes does not work.  NORMAL =  wet clothes coming out of a traditional washing machine.  I have to set the dry time for each load at 120 minutes (2 hours) and that doesn't dry my clothes.  I have to manually come back and set it again for another 120 minutes.  That's a 4 hour wash and dry time - don't be in a hurry for your clothes; (6) the machine drying at high speed makes a lot of noise - shaking.  In this old building with thin floors I'm worried that it's bothers my downstairs neighbor so I only run the machine during business hours while they are at work. This is a problem because the dryer has to be manually started for a second dry cycle.  So 4 hours machine time can turn into two days to get my laundry done;  (7) I find that I cannot wash and dry more than two pairs of jeans at a time.  I don't wash full loads because I'm trying to cut down on the wrinkles. I find that it's often better to hang my jeans over the shower rod.  Then they will be dry by morning with few wrinkles.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3187, "id": 33776, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 403, "len_tokens": 516, "text": "Like other satisfied reviewers, these drip pans fit my Frigidaire electric range well.  I'm not able to provide the model number of my range because I'm not keen on pulling the range out at the moment.  I will say, though, that my range is likely the cheapest model available and is fairly new (had it only a few months).  I always read reviewer comments before buying from Amazon, so I imagine my satisfaction is owing to the comments of reviewers who measured the stove top openings in which the pans rest (i.e., Sarah \"Sarah,\" and \"Frequent Amazon Shopper\") as well as the diameter of the oven vent (i.e., Louis J. Peca \"Lou's Pen,\" and \"Frequent Amazon Shopper\").  My suggestion for potential buyers is to measure in the same way before ordering.\n\nI replaced the original pans because they weren't high quality (a bit bent) and didn't provide a stable surface for the burner elements, something mentioned by Reviewer \"Frequent Amazon Shopper.\"  These pans provide a much more stable surface for three of my four burners.  I suspect the mismatch on the fourth has something to do with the shape of that particular stove top opening because swapping pans didn't fix the issue.\n\nI love the black finish.  I haven't had the pans long enough to determine if the finish is durable.  Reviewer Shannon Barry \"Shannon B\" mentions that this finish cracks and peels.  Time will tell.  If it turns out that Shannon's experience is consistent with my own, I'll likely replace them with these same pans because I like the look they create and they're not all that expensive.\n\nReviewer A. Cowper \"AsktheNursePRN\" mentions that they aren't easily cleaned.  My suggestion for cleaning greased stained/splattered pans (drip pans or otherwise) is to soak the pans for an hour or so in hot, almost boiling vinegar water (equal parts of distilled white vinegar and tap water) and then scrub with a nonstick-friendly scratch pad.  This is a method I use for cleaning almost everything that presents a cleaning challenge, baked on grease, hard water deposits, etc.  The vinegar water mix even works as a cold soak (just takes longer) when using an almost-boiling mix isn't feasible in relation to the nature of the item being cleaned (i.e., plastic that may melt or warp).\n\nI rate this product as a \"4\" simply because I've had it only a few days.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3188, "id": 149002, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 452, "len_tokens": 599, "text": "The directions for installing it are ridiculous.  There's no way you can get the glass part on unless you take the whole chimney part off and that includes the electrical wiring!  And my brother is very skilled at this type of thing and he's baffled as to the directions that don't make any sense!  And it looks a lot nicer in the picture than it does in reality.  I guess you get what you pay for but it's really aggravating....my brother will wait till after the holidays to install it as it will take a long time and I need my kitchen at this time of year!!!  I was hoping to have it installed before Christmas but there's no way with those horrible instructions and what is going to be involved....not happy.\nIt is now February and my brother (who is a master at installing, repairing, rebuilding anything and everything and also a skilled electrician)spent literally HOURS trying to install this range hood!  He got it in without the help of the unintelligible instructions (absolutely useless) and turned it on and nothing!  He had to uninstall the whole thing and after a very long time found that there was a blown fuse that was packed in the range hood...unbelievable!!  How they could send out the range hood with a blown fuse is completely unacceptable!!  After fixing that by&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Eureka-36-European-Style-Stainless-Steel-Island-Mount-Range-Vent-Hood/dp/B0052OZ0JK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Eureka 36\" European Style Stainless Steel Island Mount Range Vent Hood</a>having to buy a new fuse, he reinstalled it and then discovered that the curved tempered glass piece was the wrong size!!  The holes that were supposed to match up with the chimney section were completely off.\nSo I do not have the glass piece on the hood!!  I should receive a full refund for the whole mess.\nIt is infuriating to say the least.  My brother was exasperated and said he had never  seen such a conglomeration of wrong parts, blown fuse, nonsensicle instructions in all his years of working!\nI hope this review goes to the manufacturer...I am without a major piece of the hood and I should get a full refund for the whole thing as I had to pay my brother to do the work!!!\n\nThe range hood has finally been installed and I feel very strongly that I should get a refund for this product as I had to pay an exhorbitant amount for labor due to faulty parts and wrong sized\nparts which caused hours of extra labor. It would go a long way in your customer relations if you make this right. This whole experience has been a nightmare and extremely expensive through no fault of mine. The blame rests solely on Eureka.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3189, "id": 183937, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 429, "len_tokens": 518, "text": "I moved into an apartment two years ago because it cut my commute from 1+ hour to less than 10 minutes.  Convenience drove that decision, and it was the right one at the time.  But that apartment did not have a dishwasher. Over the last two years, it became very clear to me that I'm a very lazy person in my own home.  I don't know if I use all my mental energy during my day job, but the absolute LAST thing I want to do when I'm at home is clean dishes by hand. Especially the damn little utensils, like forks and spoons and narrow cups.  Imagine my self-disgust and regret on those occasions when I would cook something, be too lazy or tired or busy to wipe everything down as I go or immediately afterward, and have to put in solid man-hours scrubbing and hand-cleaning every utensil and dish that piled up in my kitchen sink.\n\nSuffice it to say, when I got a new job and moved again to a nicer place with a slightly longer commute and STILL no dishwasher, I spent some of my increased salary on this EdgeStar countertop dishwasher, and it may be the third smartest decision I've made in the process (the first being accepting the job with the higher salary & the second simply moving to a nicer place).  Maybe there's a lot of ambient noise in my new place, because I certainly think it's pretty quiet for an appliance that cleans all the things for me.  And it does clean! And dries without spots, as long as you're present to open the dishwasher slightly to release the steam that builds up after the wash cycle ends.  (If you're not there, some steam simply re-condenses and you'll have some moisture... definitely no big deal, in my opinion.)\n\nThe best place for it is on the countertop right next to the sink, since it requires hooking up to the faucet and draining into the sink.  It's heavy enough that you're mostly going to want to leave it where you put it, unless you have, like, a mobile microwave cart to and from the sink area.  (There's no digital programming or anything involved in the setup, just turn it on & press start -- so you could just plug & unplug as needed, if you're aiming for mobility or simply energy savings.)\n\nAfter having this machine for a few weeks now, I've VERY satisfied with my purchase and have recommended it to others in my life who also don't have dishwashers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3190, "id": 271252, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 487, "len_tokens": 588, "text": "Where to start....\n\nLove the look, horrible construction.\n\nI read the reviews about damaged/dented metal but took the chance. Came in OK in that regards, but had a scratch in the masking that left me worried. I then found that all the mounts were broken on the motor! The exterior packaging was immaculate, so this is poor handling and packaging at the factory.\n\nAKDY initially told me to contact Amazon, and Amazon told me to contact AKDY. After a few circular e-mails AKDY agreed to send me a new motor and stainless \"chimney\" no charge, but 1-2 weeks ground shipping. Amazon gave me a small refund for the trouble, so I thought I was happy.\n\nGot around to installing it today and I am no longer happy, due to the following:\n1. The new motor was missing the gasket, screws and grease cup clips. I scavenged what I could form the broken one and used zip ties for the rest.\n2. The instructions are horrible, and generic. they don't call out what parts should be used where, or even show accurate pictures (more on this later)\n3. The minimum ceiling height is listed as 8'. The recommended mounting height above the stove is 29-31\". My ceiling measures 95.5\" so I figured I might be a little lower then ideal but when I did the math their brackets were 3\" too long! Instead of cutting them down I spaced them down a few holes and added some self tapping screws for a little extra holding. Once I got it up to the ceiling, I found that the vertical supports would not line up with the mount. Turns out they were upside down, but nothing in the instructions indicated which way was up, or which set of brackets to use for the \"short\" ceiling install, as one set came pre-installed with a \"splice\" that I think is used to mount the 2 sections together. It also fits the motor housing and the ceiling plate really well, so I'm still not sure where it is supposed to go.\n4. Pretty much none of the holes line up, which is manageable on a bench and a nightmare when holding 50 pounds 5 feet in the air and trying to drive a screw a 1/2\" from the ceiling. The L supports aren't bent square, so you have to force it all into shape.\n5. And the proverbial nail in the coffin, after all the issues above, one of my clocks is missing the colon! this is also a repeat issue that you will see in other reviews.\n\nAt this point I want to take it back down and ship it back for Amazon to deal with, unfortunately I have already messed with it most of the day and really am not in the mood to reverse the process!\n\nSummary: Looks good, bad instructions, numerous major quality and shipping issues. Roll the dice?", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3191, "id": 218498, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 409, "len_tokens": 532, "text": "Delivered and performed as promised!\nThis replaced the Blue/GREY Lower Orbital spray arm which lasted less than 3 years, and was replaced by another NEW orbital washer arm the next year which I bought from Amazon for $35 and can u believe it? It DID NOT help (water sprayed through the orb, but the GREY arm which the blue orbital disc attaches to WOULD NOT rotate 360 degrees in any of the 3 water pressure modes) at all.  VERY FRUSTRATING!\n\nI also bought and replaced the washer pump motor ($75 purchased from Amazon) thinking maybe after 4 years it was maybe shot which would explain the lack of pressure to force the GREY Orbital arm 360 degrees which DID NOT help one bit either, are you kidding me Frigidaire?  I didn't have the heart to send the new motor back to Amazon and get my money back, so I swallowed my pride and just went ahead and replaced it...FYI, there were a couple of decent how-to videos on YouTube on how to replace the dishwasher pump.  IF you installed your dishwasher originally, it takes less than an hour to replace, otherwise I WOULD NOT attempt if don't have much electrical and plumbing installation experience...not worth getting zapped or flooding your house by accident.\n\nThis is the 3rd dishwasher weve purchased/replaced in the last 20 years.  The first 2 were high-end dishwashers (Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool each at around $1,200 at full retail), both of which sadly lasted about 8 years each with normal use!  Really?? 8 years??  Come on man...that is ALL we should expect in the life expectancy of a dishwasher?  Are u kidding me?  My father in-laws high performing dishwasher is from the mid 80s and works like a charm, except for the old-fashion looking push buttons to run it.  I figured why pay close to $1,000 for another high-end dishwasher when you could get a Fridgiaire dishwasher for about $600, ERR, MY BAD, PAID HALF THE MONEY AND GOT HALF THE LIFE...\nI guess this is how WE consumers drive the market: buying replacement parts every now and again, or by assuming the new normal is buying a new dishwasher every 4 to 8 years with normal wear and tear use.  I suppose I could wash all my dishes by hand, er, maybe not.\nSeriously, is ANYONE else experiencing similar problems/life expectancy with the Orbital spray arm on their Frigidaire dishwasher or other dishwashers?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3192, "id": 470977, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 448, "len_tokens": 527, "text": "I bought this unit less than a year ago and it works well. But there are some problems.\n\nHere are several tips for getting the best performance from it:\n\n1. Turn the unit on five or 10 minutes before you start cooking, to get the airflow started.\n\n2. install a \"make up air system\". This adds significantly to the cost of the downdraft installation, but is required where we live. The system serves to provide additional airflow into the downdraft  so that you have a good complete circuit of air into and  out of the house.\n\nThere also are a few negatives about the system:\n\n1. Having the remote blower in the basement does not reduce the noise at all. It is just as noisy as a system with the blower unit directly underneath the cooktop.\n\nHowever, one big advantage of having the blower in the basement is that you have all the space under the cooktop for storing pots and pants.\n\n2. There is a large overhang on each end of the top of the vent intake (the piece that goes up and down) which makes it easy for objects to be pushed under it unintentionally. Then when you push the button to lower the unit, the overhang pushes down on the object and continues to close. Pressing the up/down button has no effect, as the unit is designed to open completely and close completely before changing direction. If you are lucky, you can pull really hard to get the object out from the closed vent intake. But I would hate to see what would happen if it were somebody's finger.\n\nThe owners manual says that if an obstruction is interfering with the vent intake movement, you should \"immediately press the up/down switch, then disconnect the power plug. Remove the obstruction. Reconnect the vent power plug and press up/down switch to raise or lower intake.\" When I got an object stuck under the unit's overhang, it took me a while to find the owners manual and follow the instructions. However, the unit no longer moves up or down. A repair technician said that he probably needs to replace the motor  and the lifting arm.\n\nI wonder whether, if I had immediately pressed the up/down button and unplugged the power (which is in the basement and needs a ladder to reach), the unit would still be functioning. I guess I'll never know. It seems to me that this is a significant safety hazard and a design flaw that Dacor should fix immediately. If they modified the system so that the vent intake stops moving when you hit the up/down button, that would make it much safer to use.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3193, "id": 459000, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 407, "len_tokens": 574, "text": "I purchased a Samsung WF448W washing machine in 5/1/2010 from Best Buy, but I want to put my experience with this Samsung washer out there where it will be found.  Let me say, I loved this machine when it worked and for 5 years the machine performed has performed very well.  However, on 6/8/2015, just as the machine passed it's 5th year in our home, the machine would not complete the spin cycle.  I contacted several appliance repair services and none would even come out to look at the machine.  I contacted Samsung customer support to find a certified service partner in my area and contacted the first service provider Samsung recommended.  On 6/11/2015, the service tech explained that the support arm in these machines is corroded away and broken - per my my service ticket \"Found defective spinner advised customer to contact Samsung for possible coverage\".  So this explained the very small, greyish rocks I kept finding in the washer's filter!  Anyway, the repair estimate (parts & labor) was $800 - $1000.  And he's seen 40 of these already this year.  Ouch!  So... I contacted Samsung to see if there might be any additional coverage for this corrosion issue - because I hate the idea of throwing this otherwise perfectly good machine away over this defective part  - but I was told there is nothing Samsung can do to help with this issue.  According to the ECR (Executive Customer Support) representative, the extended warranty (called Samsung Protection Plus) does not even cover the drum or the spinner.  WOW!  So, buyer be sure to read your warranty and take time to check out these updated reviews.  My Samsung was a $1000 machine only 5 years ago, and now it's headed to the scrap yard.\n\nFor more information:\n1. Search for \"galvanic corrosion washing machine drum - this issue may not be isolated to Samsung only.\n2. If you need more info specific to Samsung, check out the following video - this is exactly what happened to me washer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crhk3KkeQi8.  Here is a thread with photos on partsdr.com: http://forum.partsdr.com/showthread.php?1234-samsung-silvercare-washer-very-odd-item-found-in-drain-pump-is-it-from-the-washer.\n\nOverall, I am very disappointed in the Samsung washer.  Not sure if Samsung has any remedy for this \"corrosion issue\" on the newer machines or not.  I'll give the machine two stars because I liked the machine for 5 years.  Still, I can't recommend a machine that has an effective life of on 5 - 6 years.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3194, "id": 481181, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 415, "len_tokens": 531, "text": "The dishwasher itself works OK, nothing special, good or bad.\n\nNow to the real problem with this model (apparently discontinued). The utensil (knives, forks, spoons, etc.) basket.\n\nI have used probably 10-12 different dishwasher utensil  baskets in my life, while living in different apartments, homes. I don't remember any of them. I will never forget this one.\n\nThe one that comes with this Whirlpool model (and maybe with other models) is in a class by itself; a BAD class.\n\nIt is hands down the worst utensil basket ever made in the history of dishwashers.\n\nHow much do I hate it? Let me count the ways (apologies to Elizabeth Barrett Browning) :\n\n--If you put it in the door mounted position there are many problems:\n.....It is basically impossible to load the utensils in this position, to try, you have to contort your wrist into non-human positions\n.....If you do manage to load it on the counter, and then mount it on the door, the weight will slam the door down barking your shins until  you know better\n...........To anticipate the person who says, 'well just adjust the door spring to compensate.' If you do that, then to bottom rack won't stay\n  down when you try to load it, the door spring is too strong and lifts the empty rack up.\n.....It is also very difficult to unload from the door mounted position\n.....Finally, the basket handle is bent to make it easier to place into the door, however the handle blocks the two of the slots make the loading process (already very difficult) even more difficult to accomplish for those slots.\n\nAnother MAJOR problem is that  teaspoons, salad forks, and occasionally a table spoon will fall down crossways and get hung somehow between the 'slots' . I have a teaspoon and a fork which, so far as I can see, would require power tools to get out. They are permanently hung in the basket. No amount of shaking or jostling will remove them.\n\nNow the weirdest problem of all. Uneven cleaning. One utensil will be shiny and sparkling, while another, right beside it (but not nested) will look as if it had never been washed. And I'm not talking about baked-on crud, rather, rice, peanut butter, mashed potatoes, etc. I don't even know how it's possible for it to do that!\n\nIf you are thinking about buying a Whirlpool, look very closely at the utensil rack before you do. I certainly wish I had.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3195, "id": 55070, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 388, "len_tokens": 510, "text": "I purchased this item, after going to the \"Orange\" and \"Blue\" brick and mortar stores, looking to replace my aging Panasonic 9.6V impact driver.  I looked at all the other Lithium-Ion based ones in the same voltage class, disliking the Bosch and Milwaukee due to grip size (width), the Skill for lack of an extra battery, the new 12V Ryobi (no clutch), and wasn't going to wait for the upcoming Makita.  One other factor I looked at in buying a new drill/driver, was the other tools available/upcoming and a heavy sway for me was their new Saw based on the 10.8V system.  It doesn't sound like much, but my job as a computer tech/network engineer, I only need a lighter duty reciprocating saw to cut holes in floor tiles and to cut down telco racks.\n\nSo far it has been quite useful in reconfiguring server cabinets, putting a car stereo in my Jeep, and for drilling 1/2\" lag bolt holes in some stairs.  It isn't a power house, but wasn't purchased to be one.  I was actually surprised by the quality of the product and have to say that the 1/4\" hex adapter has very little slop and what minor drilling I have used it with, was very little \"walk\" with the bit I used to for the stairs mentioned above.  The length of run time with the Li-Ion packs has been a real bonus.  Where removing and reinstalling the myriad amount of screws and bolt to install server gear,  I used only 1 charged pack for almost the whole day.  The LED ring is pretty useful as well.  Working under the dash of my Jeep, I didn't have to balance a flashlight on my chest or worry about ripping a headlamp off my head.  The hard case is really nice, yet I find that most situations,  I drop the drill, with an attached battery, and a Picquic bit pack, into my notebook case and have a go-to tool available wherever I am working.\n\nMy only non-issue really is the 21 torque settings, superfluous in practice, since I have only used 4 (3, 9, 15, and drill) and can't foresee using anymore.\n\nI hope their flashlight and impact driver become available soon (am about to pull the trigger on the saw) and I will have my \"whole\" set.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3196, "id": 88191, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3197, "id": 271075, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 482, "len_tokens": 595, "text": "Why I chose this:I was looking for a stainless fan with a nice design, without detracting from the kitchen design overall, and a good price. This fan complements, not overwhelms. It had good reviews by others as well. Because I wanted a kitchen with no upper cabinets, this adjustable fan fit the bill. About 36 inches wide, it centers well over a 36 inch drawer base and cooktop, or typical stove I would think. The telescoping parts will show a seam, not shown in the picture.\n\nDoes it work well? Has good vent power, and is quiet, we tested with smoke. Two blueish lights up front  are not super bright, but adequate.  An additional counter light source nearby would be a good idea. Simple buttons for lights and speeds on the front panel are logical. There may be up to a 1/4 inch gap between the fan and the wall, meant to be. It works for me personally, as I have made the home accessible for the future, and without a microwave and hot foods to lower down met my personal goal in the kitchen.\n\nIs it made well? First impressions, yes. The sturdy grate style grease trap below is easy to remove, and has screws if needed to disassemble it for deep cleaning. I'm sure many will have a dishwasher, and throw it in there.\nIt has a telescoping piece to adjust to ceiling heights, that the contractor cut to follow the slant in the ceiling, a flat ceiling would be no problem. Cutting this at the slant will cut through a small area of the vent holes located at the top on the sides however.\nThese pieces of sheet stainless are thin but sturdy and flexible.\nThe glass is sturdy, thick, the edge smooth, and shows the typical greenish edge of glass. The stainless is smooth and moderately shiny.\nWe hung it on a tile mosaic back splash that has a mix of marble,mother of pearl, gray glass and stainless tiles, over an Ikea gas stainless gas cook top, paired with Ikea sofielund cabinets, stainless pulls, and a white quartz  counter. Looks great!\n\n  What is needed for installation?\n1. For me, a contractor. Others have done it , see reviews. My contractor  found it a bit of a \"bear\" because of the slanted ceiling, the metal had to be cut, location of the electrical was close to the drill hole outside wall, drilling through metal siding, etc. Not a job for the inexperienced.\n2. Electrical plug\n3. A wall cap for finishing the the vent through side wall- 6 inch (not included- Braun makes them, and others.) The cap flap opens when fan is on, then shuts when fan is turned off.  My contractor found a 4 inch cap from Lowes, but it had a 6 inch total plate size, so  it worked after some rigging and caulk quite well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3198, "id": 103740, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 437, "len_tokens": 553, "text": "I picked this one for the size and design.  I considered a full size fridge, but there aren't a lot of options that don't include a freezer, and in those size/price ranges, none of them are frost free.  I didn't want to deal with that.\n\nI've had the Danby for a couple of months now.  I keep it in the basement, so it's in a cooler place, and doesn't have to work so hard.  I do like to keep my drinks ice cold, and even when fully loaded, it delivers.  And I do not have the temp setting at the coldest.\n\nUsing it primarily for bottles.  Almost all the smaller fridge and beverage coolers show with cans, so it's tough to judge how many bottles it will hold.  So I got the larger size.  Turns out that was a good idea, since the shelf mounting options are fairly limited, I ended up using only 2 shelves to maximize the placement of bottles.  And it holds a LOT of beer bottles.  I can fit about 20 lying down on the bottom, in front of the compressor hump, and each shelf is, I think about 7 bottles deep by 6 wide.  It's a LOT of room.\n\nGets everything cold pretty quickly and keeps it there.  In my random trips to the basement for beer or other things, it is rarely running the compressor, so it seems to be fairly efficient.\n\nI do have a couple of nitpicky complaints:\nThe wire shelves do not suit for balancing a full load of bottles, you end up with bottles leaning on other bottles because of the spacing of the wires.  It still works, but it could be better.\nWhat the heck is up with the top shelf with the hump in the middle?  Seems like it's a spacer for the light, but it doesn't seem to make any sense to me at all, I don't use it.\nIf you live in a humid area, like I do, you'll have a LOT of condensation on the glass.  When I first turned it on, the front glass was completely covered with a thick layer of water.  I wiped it clean/dry a couple of times after it was cooled down to the proper temp.  That helped a bit, but the bottom 1/2 to 1/3 is usually wet at all times.  Not bad enough that you can't see inside, but maybe it needs better dual-glass insulation or something?  Not sure.\n\nOverall, I'm very happy with it so far.  I can easily fit 10 different 6 packs and a 12 pack or 2 of bottles ice cold.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3199, "id": 88143, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3200, "id": 88575, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3201, "id": 87911, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3202, "id": 469799, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 438, "len_tokens": 534, "text": "We just replaced all of our kitchen appliances. Quite frankly, it was not a pleasant experience. To begin with a conclusion, if your appliances are working fine, think twice before replacing them.\n\nThis frig was purchased to replace a 16 year old Amana side by side that was quiet, cooled well but bore the marks of age.\n\nThis Electrolux Icon was already 20 months old when it was delivered. We had been told it was being built for us as there were several delays in receiving it. When I called the first time to get service, I was refused warranty due to the age of the product. When I told them I just bought it, I was put on hold for about a 1/2 hour.  Then a short return, put on hold again and another 1/2 hour wait. Finally I was able to register the product and begin the process of getting it repaired. Not a good start and the beginnings of my suspicions this frig had been owned, and registered to, someone else in the past.\n\nAs delivered:\n\nLarge dent in door running from the top of the door to the bottom.\n\nThe other door had a large swirl mark in it.\n\nIce maker was useless. Took about a week to fill the basket.\n\nCustom Temp drawer would alternate between freezing and too cold even at its lowest temperature setting.\n\nWater filter would pop out on it own.\n\nFood stains behind one of the shelves. Filthy (dirt/dust) seals around the doors.\n\nWe're European and not used to the super cold temperatures Americans use. The lowest this frig will go is 42. Perhaps ok for many but not at all what we are used to.  Trying to store cheeses or good cold cuts means they come out hard as a rock, impossible to separate slices of meats without a lengthy warm-up period and damaged cheeses when the Custom Temp drawer decides to freeze.\n\nDescribed by Electrolux as normal:  The doors do not close flush with each other. One sticks out more than the other. No way to adjust. Flimsy. The box flexes with simply opening a door. Then close the door and hope its aligned reasonably close to the other door.\n\nWe've had the repairman over twice so far. My guess is we will be seeing him again.\n\nPros:\n\nLots of bling and attractive.\n\nCons:\n\nFlimsy construction, poor quality, somewhat difficult company to deal with, though the repair people are excellent, noisy.\n\nCompared to the Amana, which cost a good bit less than half what the Electrolux cost, this frig is a major step in the wrong direction.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3203, "id": 201160, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 414, "len_tokens": 521, "text": "This Y303404 [Maytag number] element/housing assembly is not a Maytag/Whirlpool OEM part [it is an aftermarket]. But it worked out very well.\nWhat attracted me to it was Amazon's fantastic price [24.00]. The only initial snag was that it was not the part # listed for my Dryer but the dimensions were identical.  My dryer is a Maytag DE7500 model which calls for a Y303778 assembly. The dealers I called said they were not listed as interchangeable parts but did not know why. So I rolled the dice and ordered this one. The only visual difference is that the  Y303778 sheet metal tube is in two halves that are sheet metal screwed together. The Y303404 sheet metal tube is a one piece round duct, like a furnace duct. Diameter and length are exactly the same.\nThis replacement would have worked right out of the box, if not for this simple modification. One of the two sensors that have to be transferred from your old housing fastens to one of the two flanges where the halves screw together. This Y303404, being perfectly round of course, has no flange to fasten it to. Simply measure and mark the exact same location on the new tube and find or make a small, metal 90 degree angle piece and drill and fasten it to the spot marked with 2 sheet metal screws. This will create a flange similar to your original tube. I have many parts to choose from but do you know what worked out better that anything? The little universal, multi-holed sheet metal angle piece that came with one of my son's \"Erector\" sets. I cut it to 2 or 3 inches long and I was off to the races.\nI did find only one complaint on this part, in the reviews, that the tube came apart after a while where is was spot welded together. They  manufacturer must have read that, because the one I received had been drilled and a sheet metal screw installed at one end. I don't know why they just installed one screw, but I drilled & screwed two more holes at the center and at the other end to ensure no problems [total of 3]. Just don't drill right at the spot welds.\nSo that's it and I am very happy with this product. The price for this assembly is great [24.00]. My original Y303778 at Amazon was 99.00 and was 124.00 at the online dealer. Bargain, huh?\nT'care,\nMR", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3204, "id": 394491, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 418, "len_tokens": 523, "text": "I purchased the dual kegerator unit in May 2012 and waited until now to write a review. I've been through two 15.5 kegs and several 5 gal kegs. Once you get the right pressure dialed-in it's simple. I use 8-10ppi and seems to work well with the provided hose lengths. I do recommend getting a dual gauge regulator. I ordered one from another site (compactappliance) and forget why I got it from them instead of Amazon but their online customer service has been great. Like all things worth while, it does take a little practice to pour a proper beer (wet the glass), as well as, being comfortable changing out kegs. The biggest thing I can recommend to anyone, despite the product, is leave the keg alone once it's hooked up. It needs to settle down for a minimum of two hours before any beer can be pored with good results. The other thing is be ready to accept the keg in the fridge, don't dilly-dally trying to get it hooked-up while the fridge is getting warm with the door open.\n\nTemperature - I'm going to manually lower the thermostat while I'm in-between kegs. Right now it only gets beer to 40deg with factory settings. You can find the directions in beer forums or by calling the Edgestar hotline. I can see why they don't make it too low in temp since people can experience frozen lines and kegs. And after all, it is only a minifridge modified to a kegorator. Most refrigerators run at 40deg to keep food from freezing in cold spots. I'll probably get a mini fan (also found online) to help keep the air circulating inside to prevent extreme cold spots. It's basically just a computer/server fan with small power source. Heck, I might just build one.\n\nNoise - Yes, this does make some unusual noises from time to time (loud snap, crackle, pop) but I never really noticed it much until I took out the carpet (echo) in the room to redo with some tile or wood. I honestly don't notice it anymore and when the compressor is running it is no louder than my 55gal fish tank power filter and air pump in near-by hallway (or even my nice fridge in the kitchen). I wouldn't keep it in my bedroom (too convenient), but it's never been a distraction in our large dinning room / bar.\n\nI did a lot of research before committing and I am very pleased with my purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3205, "id": 88223, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3206, "id": 473831, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 466, "len_tokens": 550, "text": "I didn't purchase this through Amazon, but I own this model now for a year an a half. The crisper drawers are junk. They do not have rollers and they scrape plastic drawer on plastic track and there is a dusty coating of shredded plastic on the sides of the drawers. The long drawer cover is always getting stuck. It was replaced under warranty the first year.  This week the pin snapped off and the whole bracket needs to be replaced. Last week the freezer was leaking water on the floor. The drainage hose was clogged. I needed to remove all the freezer food, pack it up and defrost the rear of the freezer with a hair dryer. It seems to have worked. It is no longer under full warranty so a service call for an estimate is $90. If they find the repair is a covered expense, I still pay the 90, they pay parts and labor. If it isn't covered I pay it all. The drawers and plastic parts are no longer covered. It isn't even 2 years old and it is falling apart little by little. Do not buy, keep looking.\nEvery previous refrigerator I owned lasted between 10 and 20 years. This unit is a cheap piece of junk, with a good looking exterior.\n\nUpdate: My hair dryer defrost kept the freezer dry for a week. Then the leaking issue was back. I am assuming I removed enough ice from the tubes and rear that it took a week to refill and freeze.  I had to call in a service repair person. He told us there is a small rubber fitting for drainage that ALWAYS clogs and causes this issue due to poor design. He had to completely disassemble and remove the freezer door, drawer etc to defrost the tubes, then he had to open the back of the fridge to access the rubber nipple on the drainage hose. The opening is so narrow, they continually clog. He cut the end off the original fitting to widen it and reassembled the fridge. $135.00 total, 79.99 was the house call.\n\nUpdate 10/24/13\nThe seal around the freezer door is cracked. The freezer is full of frost due to the faulty seal. Of course this part is no longer covered, it is an additional $50 for the part and we will install it ourselves. Customer service is terrible. They do not care one iota that we have had so many issues in such a short timeframe. They did try to sell me a 1 year extended warranty for over $300.\n\nFor anyone still considering this brand, please think again! It is absurd that this fridge is only 2 years old and we have had so many issues ( none of them covered under warranty).", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3207, "id": 44071, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 449, "len_tokens": 533, "text": "I purchased this product online 10/19/2016 - the product was $194.99 with my coupon I paid $155.99. A complete WASTE of money. I was really excited because I don't make unnecessary purchases often - this was a gift to myself to have ice available for my guests at parties and the holidays. The product arrived 5 business days later - I read the directions - set it up and started to make ice. Very exciting!\n\nBy the third week of ownership the unit died. It would not pump water and the fan was not working. I went back to Bed Bath and Beyond 11/18/2016 - they wouldn't provide a replacement in store but reordered a replacement from the company to ship directly to my home. Another 10 business days later I had a replacement. Past Thanksgiving Holiday... but in time for Christmas. I set it up - made ice - Very exciting. I had a few gathering over the summer which I used the ice maker but it was primarily for holidays. After use the product was drained and unplug until the next event. I did not have Thanksgiving this year but went to families so my next ice making event was this Christmas - set it up, turned it on - NO Ice - NO Fan - NO Pump!!\n\nI Contacted Newair customer service after the holiday (Bed Bath and Beyond wouldn't touch it) - they sent me a trouble shooting video:\nPlease take a look at this troubleshooting video to see if you can determine what is causing the ice maker to malfunction:.\n\n- I AM NOT A SMALL APPLIANCE MECHANIC - this video has the guts exposed on the appliance - I am NOT equipped to do that. I emailed back and explained that nicely and the next response?!? Warranty is expired you can buy replacement parts: (see email)\n\nSince you are no longer under warranty for this ice maker, we can only recommend parts for you to purchase. We are sorry for the inconvenience, but these are the terms of the manufacturer warranty. If you are certain the problem is with the fan and/or pump, then you may purchase those parts by calling our customer service line\nRegards,\nCustomer Care\nNew Air | Luma Comfort Inc. | Air & Water\n\nBUY PARTS? - this item is poorly made - used a handful of times - 2 units BOTH DEAD in less than 14 MONTHS!!!\nCOMPLETE WASTE OF MONEY - the ice this made for my 4-5 parties cost me $31 per event + time getting the replacement + time now writing emails and reviews - SAVE YOURSELF THE SAME - DO NOT BUY THIS PRODUCT!!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3208, "id": 310753, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 455, "len_tokens": 542, "text": "Although, I purchased from another source, I wanted to let others know of my great find!\n\nI live in an apartment complex where management doesn't fix problems too well. My dryer vent coming into my laundry room fell out of the top of the ceiling; and with it, a pile of compacted lint. This was on the inside, not the outside of my apartment. The dryer vent outside access is about 12 feet in the air and obviously, the height and the way it funneled through my ceiling, prevented me from cleaning it. I knew management didn't care, but I did because another apartment burned down with a fire that started in the laundry room. Besides, my appliances were old and I knew sooner or later, one or both would die.\nI have always wanted a front loader, and when I learned it was a combination washer/dryer, which was ventless, I was elated!\nI am fascinated by this machine and how convenient it is. I have had no problem whatsoever with the clothes being completely dry upon removal. My laundry looks clean and smells fresh. The only thing I miss is being able to smell laundry being done and the fabric softener smell after the wash. I am using Downy April Fresh and have always been able to smell it.\nThe convenience is great not having to transfer laundry from one machine to another. The only feature lacking is that on some cycle selections, the dry feature is not continuos after washing. You have to use the Drain/Spin cycle after the washer stops to engage the drying option. According to the instructions, it does state that drying is not included in some cycles to protect certain types of fabrics.\nThe machine does spin at an extremely high rate of speed. I bought rubber feet pad for appliances, $6.99 at a Bed, Bath and Beyond store instead of buying right from LG. One consumer stated the non-slip package cost him $100 from LG. I recommend that the machine be stabilized, it will move during the high-spin cycle.\nSome people complained, about the time factor, but for me, this is not a problem, it's a learning curve from a regular washer/dryer. High efficiency products take longer to wash, and the drying method is condensation drying, which is a new concept to me.\nOverall, I am very satisfied and would recommend this machine. The only thing that bothered me is that it was an expensive purchase, but remember it is two in one.\nI really love it! I've been washing everyday and sitting and watching it like a cat, I'm sure that novelty will wear off. It's so cool, like a spaceship with all the lights and controls.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3209, "id": 481805, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 418, "len_tokens": 536, "text": "I should have known better!  My old Kenmore died and I bought this noxious import because it  a) fit in a 32\" nook; b) I didn't want an ice maker; and  c) it looked great.  (\"Sleek European styling\")  I didn't know that it has a DC compressor and emits a constant whine (or bass hum, buzz or hum, depending on the cycle).  At its worst it is like having a truck idling in your kitchen.  But you always hear it.  The noise kicks in even if you haven't opened the door in an hour, and cycles last from 30 minutes to what seems like hours.  The sales rep I finally reached via the escalation dept. confirmed that it's not a question of decibels, but of frequency.  As for noise complaints I found after it was too late, he reluctantly admitted that, yes, there are some people who find the noise really disturbing.  Or as the repairman told me, \"I know it's loud, but that's normal for this thing.  That's just the way they make them these days,\" he said, and showed me how the high speed compressor was attached to the back of the machine with a few screws and with absolutely nothing to soften the sharp whine it makes most of the time.  My Kenmore rumbled a bit but it never, ever made that awful shrill piercing relentless whine.  I can hear it in my office or bathroom adjacent to the kitchen but not upstairs or in the shower.  I can't even imagine what this thing would be like in an apartment!\n\nThese new compressors are a known issue, which is something I wish I'd found out before I bought this thing from Albert Lee appliances in Seattle.  You'll find complaints about GE, Frigidaire, Kenmore and others.  But at 17.3 cf, most of them are half the price of this sleek European mediocrity.\n\nNot everyone is sensitive to noise.  If you're oblivious to tv test patterns, dentists drills, high tension wires or a speaker when you leave the stereo on, you might think it was pricey but okay.  At least it's prettier than the white molded plastic you usually see.\n\nBut if you think that hearing your fridge when you're in another room at twice the price, either buy a mid-priced fridge with the same or more features, or get a Sub Zero for $3,000, and steer clear of Fisher & Paykel products.  This is by far the worst appliance I have ever owned.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3210, "id": 160445, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 465, "len_tokens": 535, "text": "I want to write a fair review so that others searching for replacement bins for their Frigidaire may have better luck than I did. Let me start by stating that I have no issue with the seller. They informed me that they get these replacement bins directly from the Frigidaire manufacturer. I have no reason to doubt them. So this review is strictly about the bins themselves. I was in search of the largest bins that my model fridge has on it's door. These are the bottom-most bins. The originals lasted for a few years, but eventually they broke. The weak point was always the part that attached to the door. So I lived without the bins for 3 years and just dealt with a crowded fridge for a family of 4. So finally I got around to ordering new bins. I'm sure all of you with young children knows how it goes. One day you just have enough time to dedicate to take down the manufacturer's number for your fridge, look up what bins it needs, place the order and cross your fingers that you ordered the correct parts. Well, I did! I was so happy to have these bins back in place. It freed up a lot of space. However, within 2 days, the first bin broke. One of my sons tried to close the door but had not closed the veggie crisper all of the way. And even though he closed the door slowly, the door bin broke ( right where the old ones did- where the bin latches on to the door). I considered gluing it but knowing that didn't help the old ones I got angry and just threw the bin away. A week after that, the second bin broke while putting a half gallon of milk into it. That's all it took. And this one broke where the bin latches to the door as well. I was so angry and frustrated that I recycled it and vowed to buy a new fridge. But I didn't. I reached out to the seller, but since I had thrown the bins away I had nothing to return or even send in the form of a photograph. That was the price I paid for letting my frustration get the best of me. Long story short- these bins break very easily.  The part that latches them to the door is a weak spot and poorly designed. I am loathe to purchase more for I believe new ones will just break as these did. So, I'm not sure what someone who needs these style bins can do- I think we are stuck with these, but if you can deal without that might serve you better than having to keep replacing the same poorly designed bins.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3211, "id": 502945, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 477, "len_tokens": 539, "text": "I like this washer. It is super quiet and loaded with features. You can wash clothes any way you want to and at any temperature. The washer mixes cold and hot automatically to give you the right temperature. It definitely sounds weird (it says it will on the lid) but it cleans very well. VERY quiet. The spin cycle is always perfect and is so quiet you can hardly hear it run from another room and there is no floor vibration. The indicator lights are a good feature. It saves water and your clothes always smell fresh and clean. The controls are well marked and they are quiet type rotation switches. I doubt I will use half of the features but it is good to know they are there. I purchased my washer from a locally owned long time appliance store. The appliance store sells and repairs most fo the top washer brands and when I asked which brand was the most dependable, they said Whirlpool. They brought it out, installed it, made sure it was level, etc. tested it, and it is working fine. I have heard that ALL new washers don't last so I will see. I bought Whirlpool because it still has a good reputation and makes most washers including many other brands. You can tell this machine was well engineered in the design stage. I would definitely buy this washer again. I looked at many under $500.00 washers and this one is by far the best in my opinion. I have read other reviews and it is critical that people read the manual which is included and pretty much explains everything and will prevent many of the issues in the low ratings. One person blamed the hot water inlet melting on the washer when the only POSSIBLE cause was overheated hot water exceeding the maximum allowed temperature due to failure in the water heater thermostat. I am sure that person has figured that out by now. I have had no problems at all with this washer and it seems to be high quality and best of all it is made in the USA. The only reason I did not give this washer 5 stars it that it replaced a 31 year old Hotpoint that was still working, the motor was weak, but the thing still worked but you could only do small loads. I would have bought another Hotpoint but apparently they are not good any more. If this washer lasts 10 years or more without problems, it will get 5 stars from me. Based on my calculations, the energy and water saving of this washer over the old one I replaced should pay for the new washer in 8 months so anything after 8 months is profit and doesn't matter and the washer will still be under warranty for another 4 months.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3212, "id": 396817, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 435, "len_tokens": 562, "text": "Simply put, this thermometer/hygrometer is a great value!  I was looking for an inexpensive hygrometer to monitor the humidity in multiple dry-food storage containers.  I first purchased a Caliber III and a Caliber IV humidor hygrometers due to their reputation for accuracy.  However, they are expensive, so I wanted to find a less expensive hygrometer to keep a hygrometer in each food container.\n\nI purchased five units to test, and to compare to the more expensive Caliber hygrometers.  I was impressed with the five Amir Digital Thermometer/Hygrometers, and while the Caliber units seem to be superior, at approximately 1/3 the cost, I decided that the less expensive units satisfied my needs.\n\nI purchased 15 additional units, but found five of them were defective.  One had a defective display, the other four failed to \"turn on\" after inserting the battery.  I managed to get three of the four to work after inserting a cardboard spacer on top of the battery, so the battery would be pushed slightly further into the battery compartment.  When Amir was informed of my experience, they offered to refund the cost of all five units!  I ordered five replacement units, and all five worked as intended.  I am very impressed with Amir's customer service!!!\n\nAs an indication of their accuracy, I tested 22 units standing together on a table.  All 22 show the same temperature, +/- 1 degree F.  As expected, the humidity readings aren't as consistent, but acceptable.  20 of the units show the same humidity, +/- 2 %.  The fact they read very close to one another does not prove accuracy, but it is a good sign of consistency.  As for the other two units, they are \"outliers\".  One unit shows a relative humidity 4% outside of the band of the 20, the second unit shows a relative humidity 7% outside the band of the 20.\n\nTips for getting the most accurate humidity readings.  The ambient air enters the back of the unit to reach the humidity sensor, so the back must be kept clear.  That means it shouldn't be hanging on a wall, nor laid flat on a surface.  It also takes much longer for the relative humidity to stabilize than for the temperature, so allow plenty of time for it to stabilize after moving it to a new location.  That is why I chose to keep a hygrometer in every storage container, so it remains in a stable state.\n\nIn summary, the Amir Digital Thermometer/Hygrometer is a great value!  If you happen to receive a defective unit, customer service will take care of it.  Customer Service is GREAT!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3213, "id": 217950, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 438, "len_tokens": 564, "text": "Overall Score: 4.5/5.0 Stars\n\nPros:\n*Removes ~90% of water from clothes: Nylons, polyesters, and mixed blends come out almost bone-dry. Cottons, towels, and jeans still feel damp but air dry in only a few hours.\n*Whisper quiet: unit is extremely quiet when operating. I stood right next to it when taking the video and my microphone couldn't even pic up the noise :)\n*Minimal vibration/walking of unit: Rubber/silicone tri-legs eliminates vibrations and walking/shaking of unit. I live on the 3rd floor of my apartment and never had any angry neighbors come after me. Roommate didn't even know when I was running it.\n\nCons:\n*Leaks even when not spinning due to gravity: As soon as you place wet clothes in the dryer, water will start leaking from the outlet even before the unit is turned on or a bucket is placed below it. Would have been nice to see a better design to prevent accidental floods and potential floor damage\n*No timer: Would have liked to see a timer (clothes dry anywhere from 1-5 minutes. Had to set a timer on my iphone to remind myself. Forgot once)\n*No on/off switch: As soon as you close the lid, the unit begins spinning and will remain spinning until lid is opened or unplugged from wall. Potential safety hazard if you forget.\n*Unclear operations for stopping spin: Not sure how long the brake will last for, but only way to stop unit is to open lid (while its spinning) to engage the emergency brake or unplug from wall and allow to free-spin. Instructions were unclear on this and it is not intuitive\n*No pump: Would have liked to see a pump or internal storage reservoir for water that is spun out. Spigot design is inconvenient to empty without making a mess on the floor, as there is a small air draft created when the unit is spinning, which sends small droplets of water flying everywhere\n\nOverall: Clothes get more dry than a traditional spin cycle on a classical washer, but as newer HE washers and front loaders are reaching RPM speeds of 700-1200 RPM, the differences will begin to become unnoticeable. At the current price tag of around $120, it can compliment a classical washer or a twin tub/single tub washer to aid in reducing drying times (which will save money in energy costs for your dryer), but if you have a newer modern washer (topload or front load) with a spin of 700+ RPM, you will notice minimal differences in drying amounts.\n\nI have made unboxing, demonstration, and final review videos of this product:\nYouTube Channel: matthewschneider123\n\nRegards,\n\nMatthew Schneider", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3214, "id": 49304, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 408, "len_tokens": 504, "text": "The wall my stove is located on an internal wall that is 25 ft to the nearest external wall, so a real vented system would be too costly ($6-8k) to install.  I was very surprised this unit does well with odors and heat.  Installation was straight forward - I recommend two people.  The vent on high is fairly quiet - not to bothersome to have a conversation while it is on.  It is super quiet on low and mid speed.  The lights (50w) halogen) is really nice.  My only concern is a small amount of flickering when the light is on high and the fan is on high.  It is not enough to not to use it in the highest setting.  I notice it but my wife does not :)!  (BTW, we also ordered a custom cut thick stainless steel \"backsplash\" for less than $95 and it is super nice!)  It helps to illuminate the stove-top that much more!  Broan charges $350 for theirs (although it is nicer and offers a shelf).  I cannot say how long the charcoal filters will last...  we ordered three sets with this unit.  The filters are EZ to install!  How well does this unit work to control odors?  My wife cooked bacon under it and I didn't notice until I was in the kitchen (we have a semi-open home architecture).  While this unit does not compare to a real vented system, it may be one of the best re-circ vents around.  It does have the option to direct vent as well - both vertically and horizontally - if your cooking surface is located against an external wall.\n\nUpdate after over half a year of use:\nI have purchased a total of 5 sets of filters from here on Amazon... (my wife loves to \"pan sear\"- which to me its more like pan deep frying). We replace these about every 3-4 months when the indicators say so. Clips are included with every set and like others have mentioned, for under $18 for the set of two. Since it has been more than half a year since I've installed this unit, I am thinking of posting a video for this item. I would have really liked to see and HEAR what people are saying about the sound issues. What in the world is a SONE? (Just kidding, after a lot of online research I learned a lot about these kitchen vents/systems.)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3215, "id": 156062, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 486, "len_tokens": 573, "text": "We have a Maytag Neptune front-loader, model no. MAH8700AWW, that we bought in mid-2006. About a year ago, I must have been hurrying while putting things in the washer and caught something on the door switch, snapping it off. (What I refer to as the door switch is that little thing that pushes in to let the washer know the door is closed so that it can lock.) At that time I was able to use a little Krazy Glue to fix it, but last Saturday it broke off again and wouldn't go back on with Krazy Glue. I figured it would be this little piece that would cost an arm and a leg to replace, making me question whether, with all the little issues we've had with this washer over the past 8+ years, we should just buy a new washer, especially with Black Friday approaching. Thankfully I was able to do some online research to discover that the part would cost less than a hundred bucks. However I was still concerned about how much it would cost to have someone come replace the part. With a little more research I was able to find a great video that showed me how to replace the part myself. Additionally I found the part here on Amazon for less than fifty bucks, plus I got 2-day shipping with Prime, and I was able to replace the old switch in about 10 minutes while I had two kids under four distracting me. All I needed was a screwdriver and a pair of pliers. The video I watched is on YouTube, posted by Appliance Parts Pros dot com (though they sell the part considerably more expensively than Amazon does). You'll have to search for the video because I don't think I'm allowed to post it here.\n\nMy research led me to the original part number, Whirlpool AP3837611, which I was able to confirm through the multiple reputable sites as having been replaced by Whirlpool 8182634. Putting the metal ring back on to secure the boot was a bit of a task, but with a pair of pliers and a little bit of elbow grease (the video has a couple of helpful tips for that), I got it on there and completed the repair myself.\n\nThe part I received, however, was white in front and black on the back, so that the locking mechanism and door switch, which poke out of the body of the washer, are white. I actually prefer this to the original black one because our washer is white, and the latch on the door itself is white - so now everything matches nicely.\n\nWith two young kids, I run laundry at least once a day; since I installed the replacement part I have probably run about 15 loads of laundry and haven't had any issues with it. It is a perfect fit for our washer!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3216, "id": 134003, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 455, "len_tokens": 519, "text": "I hated to pay the price for this filter. $33 for a water filter you can buy for $17. I mean come on. But sadly, i have purchased a few of the off brand replacements. I was so frustrated with my fridge, I was contemplating calling a repairman. The water was just so slow to come out. I do not know why the cheap filters would slow the water down, but they did. Even a brand new off brand filter was slow. I finally thought I would replace my filter with the Samsung brand. If that did not work, I would call the repairman.\nWell, two notable things. It fits the socket properly. the off brand filters fit, but they did not fit perfectly. There was a large gap around the filter. This filter looked just like the one that came with the fridge. Probably because it was the same filter.\nSecond, and most importantly, the water came out of the fridge so fast you could fill cups easily. The old filters had made this process so annoying that we dreaded filling water cups. I actually think we were drinking less water, just to avoid the hassle.\nThis problem is solved.\nBefore you say, well you just needed to replace your filter with a new generic filter and you would have seen the same results. Well, I replaced the first filter when the fridge told me to. I immediately noticed a reduced flow with the new replacement generic filter, form the old  Samsung filter (that the fridge just told me to replace). I bought a multi-pack, so I figured I would use them. I also questioned if the reduced flow was just my imagination. But it got more annoying as time went on. It even became a point of contention with other family members.\nThis problem has been fully solved with the Samsung filter. The few dollar saving s is not worth the hassle of the generic filters. I did only try one brand, so maybe you can find a generic brand that will work for you.\nMy plan is to use the Samsung filters, and ignore the filter change light. I will replace the Samsung filter whit a new filter when the water flow actually slows down. I would guess they could go a year or more in my area. One of my neighbors has a 2 year old fridge. I noticed how fast their water came out. I asked what kind of filter they had. They said, \"these have filters?\"\nSO my assessment is buy good filters. Replace them when they need it, not when the calendar tells you. that way you can spend a little extra for a good one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3217, "id": 43949, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 480, "len_tokens": 562, "text": "I have owned my washer for 8 months. First the water level never fills to a proper level. It is always too low and you have to manually add water. Secondly the first rinse cycle is not long enough. It does not remove enough soap. Thirdly the spin cycle is not very strong. The result is that I have to frequently run a rinse cycle after the machine has finished. I can see the soap in the water. This means that you have to spend a lot more time monitoring the machine and washing clothes than it is worth. It is really a hassle. Danby does not care about how much time you spend, they designed a cheap machine to make money. That's the bottom line.\n\nBeware of the damage this machine can cause. The wheels of the washing machine are extremely hard and mark floors. The only floor this machine will not hurt is concrete. Beware of your hardwood, tile or linoleum. Danby does not care about your floors.\n\nThe inside design is also extremely poor. Incredibly there is no screen to prevent items from going down into the pump like in a portable dishwasher or other washing machines. If you have kids you know that something can sneak past you into the wash. It is inevitable. I had a paper clip jam the pump and the water did not drain. I called Danby directly, got no help, was directed to call a service company for warranty work. They came over, found a clip had jammed the pump and I was charged $95 for a service call and labor. It took four minutes. Service man told me to call Danby to complain about the design. Danby was totally unsympathetic. The Danby customer service person blamed me for the problem. I pointed out that the manual does not list the possibility of the pump jamming because there is no safeguard screen. I also pointed out that when I called I gave the symptom but received no help nor instructions on troubleshooting the problem. The Danby representative said I should have directly asked how to fix it.  I said that help should have been offered when I described the problem. I don't know what else to do! That's why I called in the first place. Danby does not care about you once the sale is made.\n\nConclusion: Danby does not design good products and Danby does not help or care if there is a problem with your washer.\n\nTo my disgust I also own a Danby apartment dryer and can't wait for something to go wrong with it. Thankfully I almost purchased a Danby air conditioner but stopped at the last moment. You sure get what you pay for with Danby. A terrible product with matching terrible service. If you purchase a Danby washer don't complain that you were not warned!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3218, "id": 45060, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 431, "len_tokens": 540, "text": "I got this after reading multiple reviews of multiple ice makers.  We have a built-in refrigerator at home that takes a GE MWF water filter, and one time in the middle of the night, that filter blew out, leaving us with a big flood.  Since then, I've shut off that water, and in so doing, we didn't have our built-in fridge's ice maker.\n\nThis one arrived nicely packaged.  The only flaw I found in the initial unboxing was that the drain valve's plastic nut was not tightened properly against the body of the unit, so I just tightened that by hand.\n\nWe've now made lots and lots of batches of ice.  It's pretty quiet, other than the occasional noises when dropping the ice.  It's actually kind of fun to watch when it does that part.\n\nThe ice does come out a little wet.  As such, I've found if you dump the ice into a normal freezer bin, you end up with a big clump later on.  Instead, I usually run a few batches, transfer those to a Ziploc bag, and put that in the freezer.  Later, I can bang that bag on a hard surface to loosen the cubes, and then put those into the ice bin.\n\nFinally, from a cleaning standpoint, I first drain the water to the sink when done.  To do that right, I unplug the unit first, and move it to a nearby sink.  I do an initial draining (open plug, let water run out).  Then, I plug the unit in again, and start it.  This causes the water pump to run, which moves any remaining water out of the lines.  Then, I do another draining, and tip the unit over to one side so that more water comes out.  It's a bit involved, but I don't like the idea of leaving water in it.\n\nA few things I'd add that would be nice-to-haves:\n- The instructions also don't make it totally clear -- like they could provide a \"do this before you make any ice\" sheet -- but because of other reviews, I knew to run several batches through with either water+vinegar or water+lemon juice.  (I chose lemon juice.)\n- Initial runs made the room smell a little like plastic.\n- The drain plug has a little silicone/rubber plug thing that looks like it'll wear out pretty quickly.  It'd be nice if they could package a few spares.\n- The lid has a smooth exterior.  It'd be nice if they could just mold on a few grippy lines so you could lift it more easily.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3219, "id": 13324, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 431, "len_tokens": 529, "text": "This thing is beautiful.  Over the last couple years, we have been replacing our \"builders grade\" white appliances with stainless.  We debated on whether to go with an \"over the stove\" microwave or a range hood.\n\nWe finally opted for the range hood and eventually landed on this one.\n\nIt looks great!\n\nWith the way it is constructed, this shown ALOT of steel from the front.  That's great!  It makes the whole stove area look modern and really frames things out as the focal point of the kitchen.\n\nA couple words of warning.  First, I LOVE the look of the halogen bulbs but order them from amazon.  I had to replace one already and at the local Sears store, they were asking $22 for just one halogen bulb!!!!\n\nThe next word of warning is buy a pair of work gloves.  Sheet metal will shred your hands if not careful.\n\nFor us, our non-ducted installation was a breeze (or would have been if not for the shoddy construction practices of our builder).\n\nDucted installation seemed a bit more involved but for us, it was really mostly a matter of removing the parts we DIDNT need!\n\nThe wiring that fed our old range hood worked great!  I reused the old strain relief grommet and - something my dad would have frowned upon - reused the old wire nuts too!  From there it was just connecting white to white and black to black with the wire nuts and attaching the bare ground wire with a screw!\n\nJust physically Mounting the hood proved the more challenging part.  For us, the holes they provided for mounting didn't line up with anything to screw it to.  So, after fussing with it for a while, I finally gave up and decided to do it the right way!  A couple scrap 1x3's screwed to the underside if the cabinetry gave plenty of mounting surface.  From then on it was easy.\n\nFinally - and embarrassingly- (I'm putting this last so hopefully no one reads it)\n\nRemove the knobs from your stove.  Can't tell you how many times I accidentally turned on the gas just by leaning over the knobs.\n\nAnd finally - and heartbreakingly - as you are mounting the new hood, lay a piece of cardboard or something over the stove.\n\nThey tell you to do this in the instructions, but I thought it was to protect the STOVE.  Turns out, stove grates can scratch up Stainless Steel pretty well.\n\nNow, although the hood still looks great(!) all I'm going to see are the scratches we left.  :-(", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3220, "id": 87679, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3221, "id": 214558, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 470, "len_tokens": 556, "text": "It's great for places where you cannot vent your dryer outside.\n\nI moved into an apartment that was washer/dryer friendly if you brought your own. But they told me you had to buy an indoor vent. I did quite a bit of research and landed on this because based on MANY reviews I read, this model was easier, cleaner, and more \"friendly\" than the other canisters you can buy. In the other kinds, apparently lint flies all over the place unless you use a nylon to catch it. And then I can see it being annoying because you'd have to keep bending down, stripping the nylon out, cleaning the whole thing, and then reassembling it. I don't care who you are - going through that process every time you need to clean the filter is a pain in the royal rumpus and no one should have to do that.\n\nThis indoor filter can sit on the floor OR be mounted to a wall. (I prefer mounted because the space on the floor is so tight). It's self contained with a lint trap already built in. All someone needs to do is turn that handle a few cranks. It cleans all the lint off the screen and drops it into the removable drawer below. After every few dryer usages, you pull the drawer out, refill with no less than 1 inch of water, and you're good to go!\n\nIt literally can't be any more simple than that. It is definitely worth the extra money I dropped on this one. Bonus! I live in Michigan and I saw it shipped from California. I thought to myself that it was a bummer because it would take well over a week to get here. As it so happens, it got here in LESS than a week! Awesome seller!\n\nSome things to be aware of:\n\n Any time you vent indoors, the area it's in will become extremely warm and moist. This can be nice in the winter time when it's cold and the air becomes dry. In the summer, though, be prepared to turn on your air conditioning to disperse some of that heat if you run it often. If you have a huge aversion to the dampness, invest in a dehumidifier. For me, the dampness hasn't been an issue whatsoever (and my laundry room is pretty small.)\n\n Indoor venting is probably not as friendly to people with breathing issues. For example my sister has asthma and I wouldn't really recommend ANY sort of indoor trap for her. I won't pretend to assume ZERO lint escapes from the trap.\n\n Don't worry if you've never hooked up a washer before. My boyfriend hasn't ever done anything remotely close to this and he managed it easily enough. The set comes with instructions for how it's assembled.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3222, "id": 88367, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3223, "id": 38727, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 435, "len_tokens": 525, "text": "I bought this kegerator with some reservations based on the older reviews. However, I've been very please with it based on 8 months and at least 10 kegs. We entertain a lot and this kegerator had been a great purchase for us.\n\nFirst, with Amazon's price and free shipping, it is a great value and arrived much faster than I expected. Set up was not complicated, but it did take a very deliberate effort based on all of the small parts. The bag of extra parts is disconcerting because you get some that don't look like any of the \"non extra\" parts. Once set up, I've had no problems with it at all.\n\nHere is what I like about this kegerator over others. It looks pretty nice. My favorite feature is that the CO2 tank fits inside. Most others have a large bottle on the outside of the kegerator which increases the distance you have to keep it from the wall. This one just has a very clean look, which I prefer. I acknowledge that the tank is smaller than usual, but it still lasts for several kegs, so I don't see it as a big deal like some of the other reviewers.\n\nI like the curved front because it actually makes it easier to get a 1/4 keg in and I like the way the space is used. I typically use 5 gallon kegs in mine and easily fit 2 in there, just as advertised. The only problem with the tank being on the inside is that it is inconvenient when initially tweaking the CO2 pressure. However, once you get it set, this is a non-issue.\n\nI like mine so much that I just bought a dual tap setup from another company and installed it. That required a little drilling, but was a simple and straight forward process. Now I can enjoy a selection of fine beers from the same kegerator.\n\nOne thing that I did learn in this installation is that some of the parts that come with this kegerator are not standard parts. Specifically, the fittings between the regulator and the keg coupler are different than normal. All of these parts are easily replaced, but I do think this is worth noting. If you just use this kegerator as shipped, then you will have no problems.  If you decide to go with a dual tap setup, just get one with all of the parts included - which is what I did.\n\nAnyway, if you're looking for a reliable, dependable, upgradable kegerator at a great price, this is probably the one for you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3224, "id": 297094, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 407, "len_tokens": 545, "text": "Works as advertised. I benefited from the comments in the reviews here, so I thought I would do the same.\n\n1. It does not make a ton of noise. The noisiest it gets is at the very beginning and at the very end of the spin cycle when the weight of the clothes is not evenly distributed.\n\n2. The lint catcher does not work that well. So when I wash whites with colors, the whites end up with a lot of dark lint. You can purchase floating lint catchers on Amazon for $8, but you can get the same cheapo lint catchers on e-Bay for $2. They don't work well at all, unfortunately.\nhttp://www.amazon.com/Kittymouse-Floating-Washing-Machine-Filter/dp/B00NR295FY\n\n3. The machine is fairly light enough to push around on a hardwood floor. But you can put it on a furniture dolly if you need even more mobility. This works well for me. I can store the machine off to the side when not in use, and the wheel it over to the sink when needed. The machine shakes more than usual at the beginning of cycles (whether wash, rinse or spin).\nhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052PLYXA\n\n4. The drain hose is cheap/flimsy and too short, and the hook does not work that well in keeping the drain hose in the sink. On several occasions it has fallen out and basically water gets everywhere. To solve this, I tried to wheel the machine next to the sink so that the drain hose is wedged in securely. That helped a little, but because the machine gets shifted around a lot in use, I usually experience at least one incident a month where the drain hose gets dislodged and water goes everywhere. I finally figured out a solution: a child safety lock. I taped one of these child safety locks to the side of the kitchen sink counter, and I use it to keep the drain hose firmly in the sink. Problem solved.\nhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y01D6F6\n\n5. The inlet hose is cheap/flimsy. Easier to just fill the machine with a bucket, as many other reviewers have already noted.\n\n6. The drain hose spits out a *lot* of lint. I learned this the hard way -- after a month of use my kitchen sink got clogged and needed to be snaked. To solve that problem, I tie a mesh lint trap to the drain hose. That seems to have caught a lot of the lint from the drain hose.\nhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00COFAY78", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3225, "id": 66454, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 473, "len_tokens": 564, "text": "I religiously clean out my dryer's lint trap between loads, but a few weeks ago my old Kenmore dryer suddenly decided to take a leisurely approach to clothes drying, taking almost 3 hours for one load. I took apart my machine and suctioned out every lint ball I could find with my vacuum, then cleaned out the hose and vent as far as my vacuum could reach, but it still refused to cooperate. I figured there had to be a blockage somewhere in the vent and decided to get the LintEater based on the reviews. And I'm so glad I did.\n\nMy vent is probably around 15-18 feet from dryer to the outside of my house, but I opted not to buy the extension kit because a) I was hoping that the blockage was within the LintEater's 12-foot reach, and b) I didn't want to spend the extra money if this thing didn't work.\n\nOn my first attempt, I attached the brush to one rod and secured it with electrical tape (I read other reviews about the rods breaking or disconnecting in the vent, so I made sure to take precautions). After snaking it through the vent, I pulled it back and couldn't believe how much lint came out - almost a pillowcase full. I added two more rods (secured with more electrical tape), went back in, and felt a little resistance. When I pulled back again, tons of lint and pieces of a birds nest fell out - thank god there were no birds or eggs inside. Still no air flow though. I wound up working the vent from both sides, with all four rods, then connected my dryer again, but still no air flow. So, with the dryer running, I went back outside and tried again. This time when I pulled all four rods out, I was blasted with an explosion of lint confetti. And even though I was cloaked in a dust cloud, I couldn't have been happier. My dryer is now back to its 30-45 minute drying speed.\n\nTIPS:\n- Electrical tape works wonders in ensuring that things don't detach inside your vent\n- Don't attach more than two rods together BEFORE snaking them into the vent - attach additional rods to ones that are already in the vent\n- If you have a longer vent but are on the fence about the extenders, try working the LintEater through both sides of your vent - it might take a little longer, but it worked for me\n- If you have a cordless drill with a lower torque rating (like mine), your drill may struggle a bit when cleaning with four rods attached, ultimately leading to the battery draining and you having to pick up where you left off the next day (like me - it's all good though!)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3226, "id": 461815, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 421, "len_tokens": 513, "text": "When my old, trusty electric stove (that I bought used and then used it for 8 years) finally gave out, I bought this model of Whirlpool stove. There's only one thing wrong with it but, to me, it's a big deal. The burners. Until I bought this stove, my old stove and every electric stove I've EVER had would work according to the dial. (I'm only using 3 settings to keep my description simple). If you set it on Low, it would act as a warming burner. If you set it on Medium it would keep food at medium by heating up to Medium and staying there. If you set it on High, it would go to High and stay there.\n\nWith this stove, burners set to High stay on High, but this is what it does with all the other settings from Low to Med: The burners literally heat all the way up to HIGH, then turn OFF (no heat/no red) then spike all the way back on HIGH until they reach the set temp and the cycle repeats until your food BURNS. Your burners are rarely at the temp you set them to and it's very difficult to cook this way. Now when you're cooking on High or Med-High you should stay at the stove top stirring and watching that burner like a hawk, but you shouldn't have to do that with the lower temps. With this stove, I can't turn my back on it to microwave, clean as I go, empty the dishwasher, etc. I promise you that this includes the very lowest setting.\n\nI had bought a 5-year protection warranty on it and actually called a serviceman out and he swore to me that this is how the stove was designed to act! According to the serviceman, the burners are supposed to act this way (thus burning your food). How is this an improvement over older standard burner stoves? Now this is the first cooktop stove I've owned, but I've cooked on other ones (my mother's and my daughter's) and didn't have this problem. So unless the serviceman lied to me (a distinct possibility), the technology for this stove was regressed to the very first electric stoves ever made and they probably worked better than this. Plus you get to pay today's fancy dancy prices for this piece of crap. I wish I had done more research before I made my choice, but at least you are warned...crappy burners and/or crappy service...RUN THE OTHER WAY!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3227, "id": 87047, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3228, "id": 87951, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3229, "id": 87335, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3230, "id": 306892, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 505, "len_tokens": 578, "text": "I went through so much to search and locate this dryer after the UPS driver had difficulties delivering, but it was worth it.... Kinda. There is such a horrible smell. I'm going to have to call Magic Chef tomorrow and figure out what can be done about that smell. I had to move it to the spare bedroom. There is nothing worse than going through all of this just to find my dryer, just to get it and it smell so bad! It was great, but then it started to smell. It's coming from the exhaust! (2 stars)\n\nUpdate: Amazon has the best customer service! I tried to call Magic Chef myself to see what should be done and the call ended, it didn't even ring. Almost like the line was discontinued or something. Gave Amazon a ring and they sent a replacement dryer and arranged for a pickup with UPS. I went through so many issues with getting my dryer just to have it not work/smell properly. Magic Chefs portable washer is amazing though so I give them credit for that! Maybe I just got unlucky so hopefully the new dryer sent works properly.\n\nUpdate: I still have my old dryer, new one will be here in a few days. I just wanted to let others know updates so hopefully if they have the same issues they will get to know what their possibilities are.\n\nAfter fighting with the dryer I finally realized to not even put it on HOT. For the love of God, DO NOT PUT IT ON HOT (if you have that skunk smell)!! I went a few rounds of not putting it on hot and it works amazing and there is no smell! Warm gets plenty hot! So what I was smelling must have been the dryer burning! Now that I have resolved my issue I'll wait until the new dryer gets here and see if I have the same issue with the new one. If I do they I will just give them the replacement back, if not I will give them my old one. Right now the old one sometimes keeps going and doesn't turn off.\n\nMy current settings are: Warm (full aloted time), then I have normal pushed and I don't have the dry detector on.\n\nUpdate after getting replacement dryer:\nI can tell that this one is definitely different! Even down to the packaging and smell. This one just looks and smells so new and untouched. My husband and I wonder if the first dryer sent to me was even new because this just isn't the same at all (In a good way).\n\nSending back the first one sent to me. It's garbage. we are also military. I was on base and I walked around smelling like weed. It was embarrassing. I'll have to rewash everything over again.\n\nIf you have any issues just call Amazon. Just save yourself the frustration and call them. They have amazing customer support and will take care of it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3231, "id": 211502, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 431, "len_tokens": 517, "text": "For those thinking about buying this washer just remember it not an auto washer. You have to do about half the work. Comparing between hand washing and an auto washer (regular washer). To explain: I fill the washer with water and add detergent (and bleach if I have whites), place the clothes in, wash for 9 minutes, spin dry the clothes for 3 minutes, fill the washer again with plain water (and add fabric softner if hang drying), add the spun dried clothes again to the washing tub, wash again for another 9 minutes, spin dry again for 3 minutes, then finally hang dry them. Seems like a lot of work compared to an auto washer but it beats dragging everything to the laundry mat and all the hassles with that. If you wash every other day (two or three loads) it does not take long to do. Also I wait on my whites until it's full load.\n\nA tip on how much detergent, bleach and fabric softner to use: I add one tablespoon (15ml) of detergent, 1/8 cup (30ml) of bleach and 1/8 cup (30ml) of fabric softner. I know this does not sound like much but if you add too much detergent the water will just \"sud up\" and when you drain the washing tub it will be full of suds. If you add too much bleach you clothes will smell all \"bleachy\". For the fabric softner you could add more but I feel it is enough and would be a waste if you use more. Last tip get a lint brush, the lint trap traps little lint and that is if it stays in place.\n\nNow of the excellent customer service. The first washer sent to me had a bad motor in the washing tub. I made a complaint through Amazon and was contacted the same day by johnsoncorp. We exchanged email a few times that day (to explain how it was not working) and the next day johnsoncorp sent me a fedex order slip to sent it back. When the broken washer was returned they sent out a new machine right away (return of the old and shipping of the new washer was paid by johnsoncorp). The new washer has work flawlessly for the last two months doing loads every other day. I totally recommend this washer and even more to johnsoncorp on their excellent service.\n\nOn a not to self: I am considering buying the Panda dryer. This should help with the lint and I won't have to hang dry.\n\nHope this review helps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3232, "id": 322113, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 429, "len_tokens": 551, "text": "And so it begins....As others have stated, we bought this LG fridge due to it's storage capacity, convenient features, and highly rated reviews.  Not sure who they paid to write those positive reviews but I am now doubting their validity.  We purchased this fridge at Home Depot as part of the black Friday sale in 2015.  Had it delivered to our new residential construction about 6 months after purchase.  Started using it in August 2016 and have loved it.  It's now the 3rd week in February 2017 and the freezer just failed.  Thawed our food and now I can't get the temp to go below 20 degrees even though the digital readout shows -1.  Ice makers quit also.  Contacted LG customer service who advised 3-5 days just to have a tech come look at it.  While I may be jumping to conclusions on how this will all pan out I am not feeling real good at the moment.  After the failure I searched online for information and discovered a boat load of negative reviews over the past 12 months for this LG fridge.  Many of the reviews start off the same way as my story here and end up costing people a chunk of money.  If, after tech support comes out, I find that there is a simple explanation for the freezer failure I will certainly update my review.  For now, I just want to caution others that this fridge with the glowing reviews may not be all it's cracked up to be.\n\nEDIT:  2/22/17 Well the fridge is now dying.  Won't cool below 45 degrees even though it's set at 33.  Rude account executive out of Alabama didn't care at all and just said 3-5 days to contact a repair facility.  Won't give us her supervisors information for followup either.  Spoke to a couple repair facilities in our area and they advised that they don't do LG warranty repairs because LG fails to reimburse them.  Family of 6 with no cold food in the house and no repair timeline....This should go well.\n\nEDIT: 3/17/17.  Repair man finally came out the 1st week in March.  All the freon leaked out of the sealed system into our fridge.  His recommendation was a replacement fridge.  He said that since it's a sealed system it is irreparable.  LG refused.  They want to send another service tech out to fill the system with new freon and a dye so they can see where the leak is at.  We are still waiting for that guy and any parts.  Worst experience ever with an appliance!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3233, "id": 454280, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 439, "len_tokens": 535, "text": "Our last Broan Range Hood was in place for about 45 years.  I go crazy looking for a replacement until I found (duh) the same model Broan range hood. Proof Broan has made this range hood for decades. The last model was a dual exhaust fan and we much prefer this single exhaust.  Very quite and beautiful.  While the stainless steel is a fingerprint magnet it should only be a problem around the knobs. I prefer if more blue tape covered the beveled vent for the installation. Greasy prints still got on the hood during installation.\n\nIt is versatile in that it has removable plates for top or rear exhaust. If you have no external vent this model users charcoal filters (sold separately) to vent inside the house through the forward black vent.  If you vent externally, be sure to keep the baffle -the rectangular black plastic strip.  It drops down the top of the forward vent to help air push out the other vent.  The forward vent is only for internal venting with the charcoal filter. Otherwise the aluminum mesh filter is dishwasher safe.\n\nI screw in the two suggested 40 Watt bulbs and can not put on the white diffuser without it touching the bulbs.  It is a very tight fit and heat from the bulbs could melt and burn the diffuser over time.  I realize it needs smaller bulbs.  The next day, a quick trip to Rite Aid yields two GE 40 Watt ceiling fan bulbs.  (A15).  The smaller bulbs fit perfectly and are vibration resistant, which is perfect as they are mounted in front of the venting fan.  While only 355 Lumens each, they both provide more light than the single 40 Watt bulb prior.  Would be nice if the instructions say something about the bulb size up front.\n\nThe fan starts with a louder hum before it settles in and blows relatively quiet at 4.5 Sones.  But at 200 CFPM air flow this is technically underpowered.  A 36 inch wide hood should be 300 CFM, or 100 CFM per foot. Not a problem as the fan creates great draw.\n\nI love it because our former Broan was old, broken and just disgusting. The fan had not worked in years.  My father replaced the motor in that thing twice over the decades. The beveled front leaves room to open the cabinet door to the right of it.  All the small details which made finding the right hood a big deal was an even bigger deal to find the same replacement model.  It is amazing to find the same model which fits. Good job Broan.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3234, "id": 553875, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 476, "len_tokens": 560, "text": "I got this range vent within 4 days of ordering it online.  It was packed securely and in pristine condition.  I like that this model has a plug instead of direct wired connection because I think it is safer in the long run.  It was easy to put up by following an online youtube video (which was similar but not the exact glass/stainless steel model I purchased), easily grabs and holds a paper towel when on high (as a test of the the 760CFM) and is very good at getting the smoke above our 5 burner gas range oven.  It is not super-quiet but I can still carry on a conversation in the kitchen in normal tones.\n\nI installed it 30 inches above the stove for easy access to the range top. It was straightforward following the video - the instructions are EXTREMELY basic (to put it kindly) and will not be useful if you, like me, haven't done this before.\n\nI did move the cleat down and drilled holes on both sides of the stainless chimney since we mounted it into a wall with existing crown moulding (measured and removed the exact section needed to mount the chimney between the crown moulding)\n\nI also drilled an additional hole where on the motor and glass part attaches to the wall so I could mount it onto a stud.  It comes with two screws that can be used with drywall.  Given the weight of the actual galls/motor part, I wanted to anchor it to the wall as securely as possible.\n\nI finished the top with Alex Plus white silicone around the top to give it a professional look and fill the small gap between the chimney and crown moulding.\n\nI thought that the bright front-mounted fixed lights would be an eye-searing distraction to shorter chefs in our house, but they have not caused any problems when cooking with the light primarily focused on the cooktop.  It would be nice if the direction of the lights was adjustable, allowing for the light to be pointed on a particular burner when cooking.\n\nThe stainless steel chimney will show fingerprints easily, so do yourself a favor and get a stainless steel cleaner and have it on hand to use once the installation is complete.  I used the one that came with the new gas range oven we bought (at Sears).\n\nAttaching before and after pics of the kitchen mini-remodel and the steps I used to install this ventahood.\n\nIn all, I looked at Sears and Lowes for this kind of range vent but they were $$$$ and had few in stock to look at, so I decided that if I could not see the model selections in person anyway, buying it online through Amazon made the best sense financially.\n\nYouTube video:\nWall Mount Range Hood Installation\nby XtremeAirUsa\n[...]", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3235, "id": 59821, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 479, "len_tokens": 588, "text": "We had a Danby portable (rolling) dishwasher for 5 years.  We liked the job it did, but it was a pain to roll around the kitchen, and when it needed repair after 5 years, we couldn't find anyone in the area who serviced Danby products.  After 2 years of hand washing, we recently bought a used Danby countertop dishwasher - which was a life saver until it died two weeks later.  So when we finally decided to buy a new Danby countertop model, we went in knowing that 1) these things don't last forever and 2) there is no one in our area who will service them when they fail.  We purchased a 4-year service warranty (through a third party) so that when it does fail, there will be some support.\n\nAll that said, we have so far been happy with this new one.  The wash cycles are long, but we have been using the rapid cycle (70 minutes) for everything, and the dishes have come out clean.\n\nThe manual gives a hilariously long list of things that you can supposedly fit in the dishwasher in a single load.  Realistically, for my family of 3, we can fit one meal's worth of dishes plus a few extras in each load (excluding pans, which we hand wash separately).  You will need to measure your space before buying, but for us, it takes up about the same amount of counter space as the dish rack, which we now put on top of the dishwasher, so we don't really have any less counter space than we had before.\n\nWith all of the Danby dishwasher models we have now been through, rinse aid is essential.  With traditional set-in dishwashers, rinse aid may be optional, but with the portable ones, the dishes just don't come out clean without plenty of rise aid.  It's not that expensive, and if you forget to fill up the pan, you'll see right away that it's not cleaning as well.\n\nFinally, the dishwasher is packaged by Danby in a way that I'm sure is fine for sitting on the shelf of a store - but then I don't know of any stores that sell these off the shelf.  The packaging is really not padded enough for this kind of retail shipping.  The first one shipped was badly dented, and the replacement was also (less severely) dented.  We kept the second one with a price adjustment from the seller, and it's not so bad.  I hope that the packaging folks at Danby will consider this; otherwise, the vendors could add some extra padding and save themselves some damage returns.\n\nAll in all, we are happy with our purchase, and would recommend it - especially with the assurance of the extended warranty.  Check to see if there is anyone who will service Danby products in your area before you buy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3236, "id": 401322, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 480, "len_tokens": 591, "text": "I really love this Panda washer, I own the XPB27 (the light blue model with spin basket). One of the primary reasons I chose this washer over the rest, is that I can see inside of it. Not only is it cool to watch your clothes spin around, but I can have peace of mind in knowing that my washer isn't growing nasties or sediment inside. It's much easier to clean thoroughly, over something with a drum. I'm very picky about mold, so when I'm done using the washer, I put a mini fan inside to help ensure the machine airs all the way out.\n\nI have the washer set on my bathroom counter, and point the drain hose into the sink when it's time to empty. The drain hose empties very fast, but not fast enough to overflow your sink.. it's very well engineered. I use 5-gallon buckets to fill about 2-3 gallons of water, the buckets also double as a tote for my laundry when I need to move them to the dryer.\n\nI fill the washer a little over halfway with clothes inside. If you fill it too high, water will start to gush out of the drain hose. I wish the drain hose was a little longer so that it could retain slightly more water, but the motor may not like this idea. The top edges are not completely sealed, you will see small drips here and there, but this is not a big deal.\n\nThe spin basket is too small for serious use. Only holds about 1 item at best. Sometimes you can get two to fit, but the washer will usually walk after that. I spin for about 20 seconds and then move on to the next clothing.\n\nThe washer may be a hassle to use, it's semi-automatic meaning the water has to be filled and emptied by you, but this is not a dealbreaker for me and I'll explain why. Many of the automatic 250$ washers are missing a second rinse cycle, a very important feature to me. With this portable washer, I can do as many rinses as I want.\n\nAnother reason I chose this washer, is that it's much easier on the wallet to replace if it goes out. I also bought a 3-year Assurant Solutions warranty for only $8.. not bad!\n\nIf this washer was made 50-75% larger, with a MUCH larger spin basket, extra powerful motor, and was made automatic with at least 2 rinse cycles, this product could be a formidable beast in the portable washer scene. For 2016 though, I am very content with the XPB27 :D\n\nEDIT 4/9/2017: It leaked and stopped working altogether. Lasted about 6 months. Not sure if hot water got to it or what. From 4 stars to 1. Now to figure out how to get this thing returned, yay me.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3237, "id": 314226, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 401, "len_tokens": 509, "text": "UPDATE Oct. 2014\nDefinitely find a genuine FSP coupler and avoid these cheap knock-offs - the FSP part I found over a year ago has been flawless.  The cheaper polymer in the knock-off brands failed several times where the FSP has not failed once!  I got them for about $5 a piece and was well worth it not to tear apart my washer again.  If my FSP ever breaks, I'll come back and post here to hopefully help you guys/gals out.\n\nUPDATE Sept. 2013\nAnother broken coupler - I found many posts that suggest buying an genuine FSP replacement part and not the generic, cheaper parts...probably made in China.  I found a 3-pack of FSP couplers on eBay for $15 so will give them a try (FSP is the OEM brand of parts inside the washer now - take a look if you doubt me).  I checked my transmission, pump, agitator, and motor - all spin freely and are not locked up.  Bottom line, go with genuine parts when quality of plastic matters, this part transfers all the motor force and thus needs a properly engineered polymer to carry the load.  I am also going with the newer metal insert OEM FSP part too - the 3 tiny plastic tabs/teeth will break off WAAAAY before the metal insert strips/rounds the motor shaft...think about it.  I'll update this review if the metal FSP part fails...and quietly eat my words!\n\nUPDATE May 2013\nCoupler has broken - seems that a more brittle plastic polymer (i.e. cheaper) was used in this coupler and it failed along the center hole.  The washer transmission is smooth and non-binding and is used with very small, light loads. The rubber used in the black isolator also had several tears and stress cracking as it was much stiffer than the OEM part.  It only lasted a few months of very light use (however, it was only 3-4 dollars).\n\nProbably worth it to buy an OEM part for a bit more and save the time of a second tear-down and fix.\n\nOriginal Review:\nLooks like an exact replacement and fits nicely.  Should provide years of use (the OEM was over 6 yrs old) and will fail properly as designed instead of destroying the washer transmission or motor shaft.  I like this better than the metal reinforced design - again, a cheap fail safe that protects more expensive parts.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3238, "id": 464872, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 420, "len_tokens": 526, "text": "I am a fan of this stove (the Amana AER5830VAW).  First off, the measurements  were spot on, and the 30\" width was exactly right for the snug space it was fitted into between two cabinets, which is always a concern.\n\nThe glass cooking surface heats up VERY quickly, especially compared to my old Kenmore unit, which is pretty great.  I've also found the surface  very easy to clean all the way to the raised edges, and I haven't had any problem or concerns around chipping or scratching yet, and find the dark surface (i) contrasts nicely with the white body, and (ii) makes little splashes of spaghetti sauce or whatever much less noticeable than on some white surfaces.  Plus, the surface really does look good.\n\nWhile I haven't done this yet, the oven space itself is spacious enough to put a roasting pan with a turkey into it without feer that it is too tight.  It has (possibly standard?!) 5 tray racks for raising/lowering the racks, so nothing too unusual there.  It came with 2 racks.  I like the big'ish window to be able to see your food cooking, which is vastly better than my old unit's, which would always force me to open the door (thus letting the heat out) to see how things were progressing.\n\nThe controls are fairly straightforward, with digital controls for some features like oven temperature and times, and the digital clock, and old-school knobs to control the burners.  All of these seem to work without any real hassle, as they should.  One minor grips is that I find the white knobs a little cheap looking compared to the rest of the unit - but not enough to warrant a big strike against this stove; I just thought this was a little place where Amana could improve upon the product.\n\nBelow the oven is a small-medium sized drawer where you can store pots, pans, or whatever.  I wasn't too impressed by this, as it seemed a bit light / flimsy compared to the rest of the unit.  I'll be using it to store some flat pans and similar items which I don't use often, as I don't want to have to open/close the thing every time I want to get at any of my regular-use items.\n\nOverall, I am very pleased with this product.  It has performed very well, is stylish but not gaudy,has a good cooktop (which is what I use the most), and fairly straightforward functionality.  I would recommend this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3239, "id": 99785, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 441, "len_tokens": 507, "text": "I love this washer! My boyfriend and I have been living on our beautiful boat for the past year, it has given us great joy to live a life of such peace and relaxation!!! The only convenience I have missed on this boat is having a washer and dryer. We have been hauling our clothes every week to the laundromat around the corner from our marina - which isn't awful, but rather a larger activity than it could be. So to I recently started searching for alternatives that would be feasible on a boat, meaning it can't take up large space and be very heavy for weight distribution. This more than fits the bill! For $40 this washer has already paid for itself in a month! Now I wash everything but the bedding and towels, those I still take to the laundromat, but now only twice a month and spend 1/3 the amount I would be otherwise. Water is included in our slip fee, so I utilize what we already have. I also invested in a garment rack to hang dry the clothes on our back deck and have figured out how to really wring out all that water to have clothes dried within a day or two (with the cold winter and rain it generally takes a day longer, but on a sunny warm day it goes very quick!)\nWith limited counter space, it fits perfectly next to the sink. I fill up with water about half way with a tablespoon of detergent and can get so much washed and hung in the time it would other wise take me to pack up, haul over, load and unload - it's very convenient for me! I generally spin it for 1-2 minutes then let clothes sit for 5 minutes and spin again for another 5 minutes before rinsing and I typically rinse everything twice to get clean.\nIf you live in a small space, looking to conserve money, want to be in better control of the chemicals your clothes are in contact with, etc this is definitely a great option! Even though it is plastic, it's actually sturdy and we'll designed - if we had more space I would build a place to permanently mount it like other reviews had done. Works on tough and gentle clothes. For my delicates that don't take up much space but need a good tumble, I pop in a wash ball to help shake it up and get it even more clean.\nOverall I am very happy with this purchase - it saves me money, time and worry about other dtergents used at the laundromat!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3240, "id": 67086, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 432, "len_tokens": 516, "text": "I desperately needed to get one of these portable ice makers, since I live in an apartment where the fridge does not have an ice maker and getting one is not an option. I waited until I found a unit for a price I was willing to pay and this Emerson unit fit the bill.\n\nYes, the unit is big and heavy. But it is so great to be able to have as much ice as you want whenever you want. The unit makes ice beautifully, in three different sizes. The cubes are a bit smaller than I expected, but that's OK. You can always select the large setting for bigger cubes. (I usually use medium.) The unit makes 9 cubes at a time, and it takes maybe 20 minutes to make the first batch of ice, maybe 10-15 minutes for consecutive batches.\n\nThe cubes are tubular in shape, with holes in the middle. The design makes them easy to put in Ziploc bags and store in your freezer until needed. (No need to run the machine every single day!) If they stick together, a little whack should separate the cubes.\n\nA couple of things to keep in mind:\n\nBefore using the unit for the first time, add a little vinegar to the water and let the machine run. Dump the ice and and drain the water. Then, do a run with some lemon juice in the water. Again, dump the ice and drain. Then do a few runs with clean water. If you don't do this, the ice will have a bit of a chemical taste, even after several runs. (I thought several runs of plain water would clear up the taste, but it didn't. The vinegar and lemon juice, however, did the trick beautifully.) Also, you should probably use filtered water for a cleaner taste. (I use water from my sink that has gone through my Pur facuet filter.)\n\nThe plug for the water drainage is VERY small. Be careful with it. Also, because the plug is so small, draining the water takes a while. Gently tilting the unit (carefully!) will help to slightly speed up the process.\n\nSo yes, the machine has a few minor flaws, but the convenience more than makes up for it. It is great to have ice whenever needed, and it is so cool to watch the machine in action, when the built-in \"spatula\" scoops up the ice and tilts it into the basket! This is one of the best kitchen appliances I have ever bought, and I'm hopeful it will last for many years!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3241, "id": 49943, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 428, "len_tokens": 507, "text": "We ordered this fridge online and, while it was kind of a gamble buying such a large appliance from an online seller, it paid off in the end.  The fridge itself is really great - looks and feels really well put together and fits our shallow 50s-era countertops so much better than a traditional fridge that would stick out a foot or more.  It's taller than your average American fridge because it's so shallow, but we really like the way that changes the functionality: shallower shelves means no \"losing\" half-empty jars of tomatoes or unfinished hummus containers until they start growing mold ecosystems.  It also, of course, means less storage than some folks might want, particularly in the freezer where you get one shelf, one full-size drawer, and one mini, half-size drawer.  We knew this, but since our freezer generally contains only ice, a few random bags of frozen peas and blueberries, and maybe some ice cream or frozen baby food, we figured we'd be fine.  If you like to buy in bulk or you want to store large frozen pizzas or something, this is probably not the fridge/freezer for you.\nRe: purchase and delivery, we didn't really hear much from the sellers once we purchased the fridge and I did a bit of calling/tracking to try to figure out when it was going to be delivered (obviously, the freight company they use requires you to be at home to accept the delivery), but in the end it was mostly an easy and stress-free process.  I think the biggest take-away was the question mark of not really knowing where it was or when it would arrive for a few weeks until the local delivery company had received it from the long-distance shippers.  All in all, it took about a month or more to get this puppy, though that included the December holidays so things might have been extra slow.\nSet up was a cinch and the thing is on wheels so it was easy to roll into our kitchen and plug in!  There are instructions for switching the swing of the door which we plan to do sometime soon, but it doesn't look like a quick process (you need to unload the fridge, tip it back, and mess with the wheels and feet as well as taking the doors and handles off).\nLast: I remember reading some stuff about noise problems with this or similar fridges, and for the record, I don't notice a noise problem at all.  Really, I love everything about this fridge so far!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3242, "id": 456650, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 540, "len_tokens": 593, "text": "We recently had to replace a dryer that was 9 years old. The motor on it finally burned up. After doing hours of internet research we decided on this Maytag. We are so happy with our choice. We got a great deal via price matching and rebates. There are plenty of features and options for getting all your laundry dried just the way you want.\n\nThe first thing I love is how big it is. I can now dry two full loads of laundry from my washer at the same time saving me energy and time. It handles large bulky items with ease. We have a king size bed so all our blankets and comforters are huge. Even my sheets take up tons of space in the wash. This can handle all that without any issues.\n\nThe sensor dry cycles took some figuring, but after just a few weeks I have it down. Bulkier items like jeans and towels need the heavy duty and more dry sensor settings. If you pile a lot of laundry in you may want to check the load halfway through and fluff it around to make sure that all pieces of laundry are exposed to the heat. Clothes always get wrapped up with each other as they tumble so the more you put in the more wrapped they get. I get dry clothes every time. Most shirts and slacks will dry fine on the normal settings in the sensor cycle. You might also want to try Dryer Balls, which you can buy at various places. You toss them in with the load and they help keep items from getting all wrapped up together and also help fluff and soften the clothing without having to add dryer sheets. I love them.\n\nThe wrinkle prevent option is great for when you are not able to get to the clothes right when the dryer shuts off. It keeps tumbling about every five minutes with or without heat depending on your settings.\n\nThe lint trap is huge and I am finding that this dryer is much gentler on my clothes as there is not even half as much as there was in my old dryer per load. It is not cheaply made as some others we looked at.\n\nAll the buttons and dials seem sturdy and well made. The door closes solidly and tight. Best of all this dryer is made is the USA!\n\nI love that the drum light can be turned on during a drying cycle while the clothes are drying and you can also shut it off if you need to leave the door open.\n\nThe end of cycle signal is loud enough to hear all over my house. You can also adjust it to a softer sound or even turn it off. A bonus is being able to have it beep when clothes are still damp so if there are items you want to remove before they fully dry you do not forget.\n\nThis dryer is all I wanted and more. It is plenty large enough for when I finally upgrade my washer. We got an excellent service plan on it and are extremely pleased with our purchase. Laundry is less of a chore now.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3243, "id": 98485, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 441, "len_tokens": 554, "text": "I've never written a review on Amazon before, and after reading the reviews for this refrigerator, I was seriously doubting our decision to purchase an Electrolux unit.  But we already had an Electrolux range, wanted things to match, and needed a counter depth unit.  So we held our breath, and found this unit at the Sears Outlet for $2,100.  To date, I've had none of the issues others have made mention of here.  The top unit stays plenty cold, the ice maker makes plenty of ice, doesn't spit it all over the floor, it's not mushy, etc... etc.  The unit does seem to run most if not all of the time, but it honestly just sounds like a small fan running.  It's not loud or very noticeable at all.  All interior lighting is through inset LED's that dim on when you open the door and drawer... a nice feature.  I think there's nine LED's in the refrigerator alone... some inside the drawers so you can easily view their contents.\n\n The glass shelves have a slight concave edge to them that keeps in spills and are very stylish.  The only small problem we had initially was hat the seal on the freezer drawer wasn't sealing completely.  We'd get some patches of frost in the freezer where air seeped in.  Turns out the seal just needed to be massaged a bit to be a bit more flexible, and the problem has gone away. (it most likely got compressed sitting in the outlet warehouse)  One gripe is that if you open the right fridge door, the water and ice maker stops until you close it.  Open it while you're getting ice or water, and an alarm goes off after a few seconds.\n\nFWIW, the ice maker makes ice in a \"drink friendly\" shape (Electrolux's term, not mine)  The ice looks a bit more like store bought ice, in a bullet shape with a hole in the middle.  Initially it just seemed like marketing fluff, but I have to admit, they do cool drinks rapidly, fit a bit better in bottles, and seem to also freeze faster.  Set to \"fast freeze\" this unit makes a tray of ice almost twice an hour.\n\nNow, as I said, we got our unit for a pretty steep discount at an outlet center, and at the price we paid, I'd call this a 5-star unit.  I have to admit though, at a list price of $3,500 I could see some having a bit of buyer's remorse.  If you can find a unit marked down a bit, or are comfortable with the price, this is an excellent refrigerator.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3244, "id": 88623, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3245, "id": 85735, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 381, "len_tokens": 593, "text": "After 10 years of never any issues with our SS model DV209AEW dryer...Sandy tells me...our dryer isn't drying clothes...thoughts are...call a service fella....but a recording...leave a message...I look at the dryer...crammed into our laundry room..5 inches left to spare each side...so search about U Tube....checking the assorted methods & hints..choose replacement via the front method. A 1/2 hr.... use a 10 mm socket,a 1/4 Drive ratchet to remove 2 hex/ Philip heads securing top cover...no need to move dryer away from rear wall...slide top cover rearward...slide front cover rearward..remove. Remove front trim with controls..no need to unplug. Remove small Philips screws..a few more as in details on YTube...remove ft panel along with door..un fasten plug. Hint..mark a circle around screw heads with felt tip pen.reason being..many holes not used..to quicken reassembly.\n Remove brace that secures heater housing..3 screws.slide out heater housing...remove from dryer through front opening..remove two thermostats...4 screws. Seperate top of housing..7 screws...looking closely ..notice break in coil resistance curly wire..or Use ohm meter..not required. If break in Curley resistance wire...this is the cause of..no heat.!\nOrdered this nifty replacement..Prime..replace heater assembly...carefully not to allow coils ,leads to touch covers.\nWhile was waiting for parts delivery, clean all inner cabinets,housing of lint residue, I also cleaned fan blades..remove 4 screws, a metal stamping...I also removed filter holder assemblys..two sections,wash..reinstalled. Clean moisture sensor...roughing sensor metal bars with fine finger nail Emory  board softly. Reattach brackets to heater housing sides..with  thermostats,,two screws each thermostat plate.. attach red/ blue wires to insulated block tabs..slide in housing, slide in metal frame..attach 3 screws.\n The rest all reversed as when dissembling. Did. I mention..the first most important step....trip house Electrical 240..breakers..OFF..,!\nThe most problematic problems I occurred...getting myself,up,down, moving about to service the dryer...suggest faithful wife or companion to assist.\nDid notic no country of origin stamped on shipping box, or heater bracket... did notice resistance coil of heater diameter coils..seems a bit beefed...larger wire diameter than original...no issue to be concerned about. Possibly coils will last longer than original.\nThe first time to replace heater coils...if again..easy, quickly. Time will tell of quality part ...but if heater coils opens again...would be able to do as fast and efficiently.\nAmazon... a most effective and method to obtain parts .!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3246, "id": 222321, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 432, "len_tokens": 564, "text": "First of all, the \"Instruction\" booklet is TOTALLY useless! Glance at it, if you must, but don't expect to find out how to actually use machine....\nSIZE: this is small enough to tuck in corner or even closet. We live in small NYC apt & I keep in next to small bakers trolley we've used to divide the \"kitchen\" area from living room.\nMOVING IT isn't as easy as hoped...the wheels seem a bit useless; we'll probably get the stand w 4 wheels eventually.\nHOOK-UP: have to remove water filter faucet attachment, then washing machine adaptor goes straight on. Make sure to tightly screw metal adaptor on first (w/o hose), then attach hose w collar to machine & faucet. VERY TIGHTLY! The 1st couple times I got soaked from spray b/c I didn't follow my own instructions! We still could not stop a certain amt of leakage from faucet into sink so we'll get some silicon tape to rap around leaky piece. Lastly don't forget to hook drainage pipe over sink. This seemed a little flimsy, like it might flip out of sink so I used an elastic band to attach it to intake hose. Then, plug it in!\nYOU'RE NOW READY TO DO A LOAD OF LAUNDRY!\nI put in my clothes, added detergent and turned it on, leaving it on reg wash. I did hit water level to increase from 5 to 6...a small but useful adjustment for a full load. B/c I was doing \"whites\" I paused after it had started to add bleach solution; you could do same w softener.(Remember to hit pause if you're opening lid.)\nHOW MUCH IT WILL HOLD? You can fill it, but I wouldn't pack it down. Also bare in mind the WEIGHT of the items when they're wet & don't fill as much.\nI washed: 2 men's long sleeved cotton shirts, 5 women's T-shirts, 1 long sleeved cotton sweater, 2 pairs of cotton underwear and a pair of socks. Everything can came out beautifully clean & almost dry...\nOne word about spin cycle: if it starts making thumping noise, etc, it means the load is unbalanced so Pause machine and rearrange clothes. This wasn't a very balanced load, the sweater was much heavier...when I washed towels I put two in so they were better balanced.\nNOISE LEVEL: it's as close to silent as possible! No worries about neighbors, you can talk or watch tv a few feet away.... only time you'll here noise is if spin cycle gets unbalanced.\nLOVE THIS LITTLE MACHINE -- IT'S CHANGED OUR LIVES! NO MORE LAUNDROMAT!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3247, "id": 348187, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 501, "len_tokens": 536, "text": "This is a great little counter top Ice Maker! Makes enough ice for average home use and if you get started a day or two ahead you can make enough ice to fill your cooler and use for parties for clean tasting ice.\nThe photos I'm adding are an example of how much ice you should have in under 15 minutes after starting your machine.\nIt does not take up much space and can easily be put away and taken out only when needed or you can just leave it out if you have the space and intend to use it often.\n\nI washed it out before use with dawn dish soap and warm water and in doing this never got a plastic taste to my ice as I had read on another review. I also used bottled water as recommended for clean great tasting ice.\nI used the machine for about 6 hours straight the first time I used it and ended up with a little more than 8 full 1 gallon ziplock bags of ice.\nThis machine is not for storing ice meaning it is not a freezer.\nI use it while doing chores, crafting or cooking that way when I hear a new batch dropping I can bag it up and freeze it without forgetting about it. You can let several batches fall into the tray without it melting however if you don't empty the basket it will eventually melt back into the water reservoir and just make a new batch.  If the machine runs out of water it will beep then just shut itself down.\n\nI don't notice much difference in the cube size though there are 3 sizes Sm Med and Large.\n\nOther than just needing a good washing as any new appliance should have the machine came completely ready to use mine came with an extra plug that goes in the back of the unit to drain the water reservoir and was just an extra piece that I didn't see in the manual so I did look for a minute to figure out it was just a spare, the manual didn't explain much about the very basics of using the unit but more the what not to do's and how to use the control panel. So I think the manual could use a little update like specifying the fill line or at least the amount of water to add but realistically it was very self explanatory just looking at the unit there is a fill line which are the notches under the basket that hold it up you don't want water going above those but just below them or your ice will just melt in it.\nVery very pleased with this Ice maker!\n\nI did receive this unit at a discount during a special promotion for my true unbiased review. This in no way sways my views about this product and I hope to help others in making the right decision when making a purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3248, "id": 66828, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 417, "len_tokens": 511, "text": "This has got to be the best 23 bucks I've spent in a long time.  Our dryer had been taking forever to dry large loads.  90-120 mins on average.  It didn't used to take this long so I thought I would attempt to clean the vent and see if it helped any.  I didn't have high expectations but figured it would help a little.  I had never cleaned the vent before and I bought the house over four years ago.  I had never seen anyone clean one before so it never really occured to me that this is something I should be doing.  The kit came in two days thanks to Amazon prime.  Directions were very easy to follow.  There was also a DVD in the kit but I didn't look at that.  I didn't know how long my vent was so I just ordered the regular kit.  After starting the process I realized my vent was longer then the rods included.  However I worked from the outside then the inside and it worked out just fine.  I did about 80% of the cleaning without my husband.  I was a little leary since I'm not handy with repairs but decided to give it a try.  At one point during cleaning the vent was totally clogged.  Using the clog remover and the leaf blower (its in the directions) I got it unclogged.  Here is where the second person is handy.  If one person is inside cleaning and using blower then its nice to have a second person outside saying if the debris is still coming out etc.  I could not even imagine how much stuff came out.  The lint didn't really surprise me.  The twigs, wood chips, straw and feathers did!  Luckily I didn't find a bird or any other animals.  It was pretty scary removing the debris from end of vent outside not knowing what I might find.  How there was not a fire I still can't believe.  I had chills seeing how much came out of there.  The whole process took a couple hours because of the amount of debris and some learning on my part.  Hint leaf blower works better then shop vac.  I am so relieved I bought this kit.  Now the best part is I feel safer.  Also our drying time is down to 40 mins for a large load of sheets and towels!!!  This has cut the dryer time by more then half!!!!  I am excited for the energy and time savings.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3249, "id": 65123, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3250, "id": 140027, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 426, "len_tokens": 517, "text": "Too bad I didn't learn about this a few years ago.  This part was the reason my KitchenAid/Whirlpool refrigerator's water dispenser leaked constantly.  The problem started several years ago.  We'd get a glass of water & instead of cutting off the flow of water promptly, the water dispenser would keep dripping.  At first it was just a drop or two, but gradually the problem got so bad I finally turned the ice maker off and turned off the water supply at the wall.\nThankfully, our appliances have been very good.  We've had about 5 appliance service calls in the past 20 years. The only down-side of that is that I don't have a repair service I know I can trust.  So each time I try someone out, I swing a dead cat around my head 3 times after soaking it in stump water.\nThis time I went to the Whirlpool web site, downloaded the parts manual for my fridge and started checking into the cost of buying parts.  That way at least I'd know whether the repair man's price was reasonable.  I scheduled a service call.  But I kept looking into this parts situation online, and somehow got a brain-wave: try Amazon!  Sure enough, as I looked at the various water system parts, I found that this sucker was probably the cause of my water dispenser leak.\nI canceled the service call, bought the part, looked at \"Steve's\" video on how to replace it on YouTube (find it by part number), and did the job myself for less than the price of a basic service call (To be fair, the service technician would've applied the service call fee to the repair).  It took me about 40 minutes to complete the job.  One of the supply hoses was too short to bring the part out from under the fridge.  I traced that hose to the back of the fridge and saw a place where I could unscrew it by hand (a plastic fitting with ridges).  I replaced the part, hooked the hose back up, then started running a bunch of water through the dispenser to get all the air bubbles out.  As I did that, I noticed the sound of water squirting out of one of the connections I had just made, so I pushed the hose in a little harder; that did the trick.  After clearing all the air bubbles out (takes several gallons of water), the job was done.  Just 1 or 2 air bubbles in the line will make the dispenser drip.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3251, "id": 466444, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 391, "len_tokens": 502, "text": "My 2 1/2 year old dual fuel convection range with steam assist (48 in) caught fire and was non-repairable.  I was baking in the smaller oven when I heard a pop.  Black smoke started pouring from the front  of both ovens.  Upon opening the smaller oven door, I saw flames up around the broil elements (I was NOT broiling at the time).  My husband commented that it smelled like an electrical fire.  We proceeded to cut off the power to the range.  Smoke still poured out.  We then heard the sound of gas burning off inside the oven (I was NOT using our gas stove top at the time).  The stainless steel outside top and sides of the oven were burning hot to the touch.  The control knobs were so hot they had become gummy/tacky to the touch.  With no end in sight to the black smoke pouring out and the extreme heat OUTSIDE of the oven, we called the fire department.  They cut the gas off to the house.  The firemans hand-held temperature reading gun (Bullard Thermal Camera) measured over 250 degrees atop the range and along the back wall behind the range.  Firemen said had we not been home, the back wall would have caught fire and this would have become a rescue call.\n Kitchenaid sent a repair person to look at the oven.  Deemed not safe enough to repair, the spark ignitor box inside was melted, wires crystallized, touch screen displays melted, wall plug charred and melted.  After many lengthy calls and emailed pictures, we were given 2 options: get a replacement unit only by paying a participation fee of $2500 or get a prorated refunded due to age of unit (2 1/2 years old).\n We opted for the partial refund, as this unit is a FIRE HAZARD.  To get a different brand, we still were out several thousand dollars, since we were not offered a full refund on a faultily designed range.  Funny, because 8 WEEKS later when I finally had a different brand installed, the installer noticed my old unit had steam assist.  He said he had replaced 3-4 other Kitchenaid models that had burned up-all with steam assist.  No one at Kitchenaid could tell me anything.  There has been no recall.  BEWARE: this unit is poorly designed and is a fire hazard!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3252, "id": 297090, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 498, "len_tokens": 584, "text": "I ordered this on a Friday morning and got it Saturday night. Turn around was excellent. I only recently learned that portable washers existed! So I had to get one. Ok now about the machine.\n\nWhen I got it, I was excited to use it. And use it I did. I did many loads of laundry that night, and even the extra work of filling the tub manually didn't really bother me. I felt accomplished.\n\nI watched many videos of use for this unit (as well as others in the Panda line) and I knew that I should take it easy on loading the tub up. I keep loads small and I don't overload the spin dry side. You must treat this unit with care. Don't slam the lids down, especially the spin dry side. There is a clamp attached to a spring that will act as a break for the spin dry tub, and slamming the lid down could cause damage to that spring and clamp.\n\nAs for the spin dry side, I did encounter a problem that worried me. I heard an odd noise and I stopped the spin. I took the clothes out and then... The spin dry tub didn't spin anymore. Panic ensued. I've had this for one night, it can't be broken! Luckily, it wasn't broken. I had simply spin dried multiple clothes for too long and the motor overheated. I let it cool down and it works again. So, please do not use the spin dry side longer than is necessary! The spin tub is efficient and a couple minutes is fine. This was the only negative part about this machine, and why I decided on a four star rating\n\nIf the agitator fails to agitate, you've put too much in. Take clothes out until it works. I could easily see that part failing quite easily. Again, keep loads small. Don't fill the tub past the H mark, keep it to the L or M mark.\n\nFilling the tub is kind of a pain in the butt. It comes with this hose that you can connect to a faucet, but in my case the post doesn't really fit over the faucet, so instead I use a 13 gallon wastebin that I just fill up for the bathroom tub and pour in the washing tub. It's infinitely faster, but very heavy. It's not really an issue for me however.\n\nThe lint trap in the washing tub is a joke. It does nothing. If you hang dry, I would suggest looking into a sort of in tub lint filter (there are items like this on Amazon), otherwise, dryer sheets and a traditional dryer will be fine for lint removal. That's how I dry.\n\nIn closing, it's a great machine for apartments or small living quarters. Treat it gently because it's nothing like a traditional washer, and the bit of extra work that goes into doing a load of laundry is even kind of satisfying", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3253, "id": 88495, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3254, "id": 112312, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 455, "len_tokens": 578, "text": "Low fan is very quiet, just loud enough to be heard (which is actually good, so you won't accidentally leave it on forever).  High fan is fairly noisy, as I believe all fans are when they move lots of air.  Perfect -- I use the low setting when cooking smelly food, high if I really need to move a lot of air.  The four lights are veeeery slightly angled inward, so this doesn't quite work to illuminate the counter on either side as well as I might have hoped, even if you pick lights that are \"floods\" not \"spots\".  The cabinet's slope in front seems to minimize the possibility of bashing your head as you cook... mine is installed just above my eye level, and I have not hit my head. (A friend has a different hood, is always hitting his head...)  (specifically, top of hood is at 5'10\", I am a bit taller than that, never banged my head!) The rocker switches are fine, I like them. The \"off\" positions are with the rockers pushed in at left, not the \"even\" rocker position; thus it is easy to turn them off with a single finger jab e.g. when holding a hot pot in your other hand.  Pushed in at right, the rockers are high-fan or high-light.  Pretty easy to take down the screens for cleaning (dishwasher safe)\n\nI called the company to ask about LED options for the four lights (which are GU10 format, btw., you must buy the specific halogen types called for, not hard to find at Lowes or Home Dep)  Cust Srvice seemed very competent and on the ball, not someone reading a script from overseas. They explained that as of yet they know of no LED whose ballast portion can survive the heat of a typical stovetop for long, and therefore they do not use electronics that will support LED GU10 bulbs.  So with this hood, you are stuck with halogen bulbs (I bought 50w ones rather than 35w ones, find low setting fine. High setting quite bright but not too bright).  Broan said they are actively searching for LEDs that are designed to withstand stovetop heat for extended periods, but they know of none.\n\nMy contractor said it was an easy install.\n\nI've updated this review -- had the hood for about a year now with no problems.  Stylistically it's great, matches any kitchen I could think of, does not have a cheap look at all.  Greatly appreciate that I have a cupboard over this hood rather than the ridiculous hoods that preclude cupboards.  Glad I spent the time looking at every hood in the big stores, didn't like any, and took a chance on this one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3255, "id": 88447, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3256, "id": 88255, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3257, "id": 88031, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3258, "id": 542311, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 422, "len_tokens": 500, "text": "Update:\n\nSo I have owned the Kucht for over a year now. Overall I'd say you get what you pay for with this unit. It has some issues, mostly with build quality. For example, my knobs did melt from heat and had to be replaced. I had to contact Kucht support by phone 6 or 7 times before they finally sent replacements. The knob markings on the front panel have faded away with cleaning. The grates are rusting. The oven racks stick, they are not easy glide. I burned myself once thanks to the sticking oven rack and they are so bad I don't even bother pulling on them anymore. The stainless steel shell is thin. It pops as the oven heats and cools. It's not a terrible range but for the price I expected better build quality. I doubt I'll keep it much longer. If you are willing to spend 2500 for this I'd maybe consider spending another 1 or 2K and buy a BlueStar.\n\nI have owned the stove about a month. Overall, I'm pleased. I think the range is a good value for the money. The range looks amazing w/o the cost associated with a professional style range. No electronics. It's a barebones unit that just cooks, exactly what I wanted. Good cooking performance. I really like the dual simmer burner and I've had no issues with baking. My biggest gripe is the range is not well insulated. It gets hot when using the oven and that's a definite concern. I also have some minor quality concerns. To produce a professional style range at such a low cost I have no doubt they had to cut some corners. Another reviewer noted the finish on his knobs melted from all the radiant heat put off by this range. My knobs are on the front away from where the heat is vented so I don't expect to have that problem, but I had some black paint wear off the cap of the dual simmer burner after only 3 weeks. I contacted Kucht and they sent me a replacement at no cost and asked me for a picture so they could investigate if they have a quality issue in their manufacturing process. All these issues are cosmetic and don't impact performance of the range. I can't speak to reliability yet, I've only had the range a short time. Appliances fail, that's a fact of life, but I'm hopeful with such a simple unit, it will hold up well. Only time will tell.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3259, "id": 87519, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3260, "id": 3107, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 386, "len_tokens": 507, "text": "I spent over two years debating this machine.  Based on previous customer reviews and the sad state of my building's \"laundry facilities\", I became nearly forced into the purchase & what a wonderful outcome!  My only regret is not having enough confidence to spend the money for a larger model.\n\nDespite what other less-than-favorable reviews say, this machine *IS* a gem.  It takes longer to go over the manual than it does to hook it up.  What has to be done?  Put a panel on the bottom of the machine, make sure the machine is level (no rocking), screw in the water inlet hose.  Wow.  That was tough.  NOT.\n\nMy biggest concern was that my sink faucet seemed larger than the connector.  Guess what?  I unscrewed the hose's connector, removed one of the washers (leaving one remaining) and the connector screwed to the outside of my kitchen sink faucet.\n\nI haven't experienced *any* leaks.  My thoughts are that it's from overloading the washer & putting in too much soap.  People who have a tendancy to stuff commercial washers most likely have a tendency to add too much soap to make up for their \"habits\".  This machine has done about 25 loads of laundry within 3 days.  I pushed this thing to the max.  Stuffing clothes in like it's a commercial front loader will not do the job.  However, an adult washing their daily \"outfit\" will find this machine not only capable, but a real money saver.\n\nDon't freak out when you put the machine on \"Heavy\" or \"Normal\" and it seems to do nothing.  These are pre-washes that include long soaks each as well as filling the washer repeatedly.  The most common was would be the \"Light\" wash, which is your 21 minute start-to-finish cycle.\n\n*IF* you have an overload of suds, add a liquid fabric softener to the water and it will nullify the soap.  Even though one ought to put no more than one ounce of soap into a load, fabric softener will not effect your wash (other than to make it softer), so you needn't worry about that.\n\nAnyone who's considering this machine should feel confident in making the purchase.  When and if this machine dies on me, I will replace it with another Haier.  Except next time, I'll get a bigger one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3261, "id": 561387, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 441, "len_tokens": 525, "text": "The packaging is a joke, it was 6 flat pieces of cardboard taped together to make a box. I picked it up at a FedEx location and it was already falling apart. Opened up the packaging and the product was damaged in multiple areas but not enough to go through the return/exchange process, but was still upsetting. The product is made of high quality stainless steel. I'd call description of this product false advertising, the interior sticker of the product clearly states maximum air moved by this unit to be 1000 CFM, not the advertised 1800 CFM. The unit came with 2 IR heat lamps, however the advertised LED lighting is also false, they are 3 G9 based halogen bulbs, which is another disappointment. The unit does a decent job venting as a 1000 CFM hood. Baffles are stainless like in the restaurant kitchen hoods. The control panel is touch sensitive which controls the lighting, fan speed, kitchen timer, and timed shut off of the fan. The panel displays a clock with is comical to see when you set it, an hour later it goes 5 hours forward, this did not effect the kitchen timer however, that beeps for a minute after going off. On the right side of the unit are two manual switches that operate the heat lamps, which work good if you have a shelf on the back-splash of the range like in a professional kitchen, keeping pans and dishes warm. The heat-lamp switch placement seems like it was an after-though and should have been integrated into the touch panel.\n\nI emailed and messaged (through Amazon site) the company multiple times with out a reply. I called in to speak to a rep (the Amazon \"guy\") who knew nothing about the product and he said he would provide me with a manual that came with the product. No reply thereafter, and got no information. I should have gone with my gut and got another highly reviewed and rated product instead of taking a chance on a product with no reviews and no customer service by Web Direct Brands. Fail. I should have returned the product when it was returnable due to product damage and  the false information in the description. I still own the product, and it works for what its worth (not much and definitely not at this price), since we were in a rush to get a working kitchen. I feel like we have compromised our quality and standards by owning this product.\n\nI do not recommend this product, it is not as advertised, company has no customer service and knowledge of this product. Caveat emptor.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3262, "id": 87783, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3263, "id": 87543, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3264, "id": 513734, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 392, "len_tokens": 593, "text": "This repair kit fits a Kenmore 90 series Dryer, Model # 110.66902691  PROBLEM:  Dryer started to squeal (high pitch)...like a little piggy!\n\nWhen I took apart dryer I noted the following:\n\nORIGINAL PART NUMBERS and their corresponding REPLACEMENT PART NUMBERS:\n1) Dryer Idler Pulley > stamped on original pulley> FSP WM 697 691\n Replaced with P/N 279640 came with tri-ring retainer clip and flat washer\n2) Dryer Drum Support Rollers (front green in color) > stamped on original roller > FSP GRN 3396801\n Replaced with P/N 8536974 came with (4) tri-ring retainer clips and (2) rear rollers\n3) Dryer Drum Support Rollers (rear red in color) > stamped on original roller > FSP 8536973\n Replaced with P/N 8536974 came with (4) tri-ring retainer clips and (2) front rollers\n4) Dryer Belt > stamped on original belt > 3387610 EB made in USA > (size 93.5, 1/4W, 4ribs, 3grooves)\n Replaced with 40111201 (size 93 3/8, 3/8W, 5ribs, 4 grooves)\n\nThis kit came with instructions and all parts needed to replace (4) support rollers, Idler pulley and belt.  GREAT PRICE TOO!  Did an extensive search, this was the best price!  Even if you only have to replace one drum support roller. The price for 1 drum support roller almost cost as much as this kit. Might as well replace all the support rollers, idler pulley and belt too!  In addition, Express Parts Direct shipped these parts to me in (3) days!\n\nGo to online video Dryer Repair - Replacing the Multi Rib Belt (Whirpool Part # 661570) for instructions for dissembling your dryer (110.66902691)\nInstall takes about (1) hour start to finish, time is needed to vacuum out bottom of dryer once drum is removed.  Great time to grab the kids to help.  Had my 13 year old son follow in my footsteps, I did one side, he copied me and did other side.  Had him install the belt over the idler pulley too.\n\nGreat time to clean out the lint trap, vacuum the inside of unit, vacuum under the dryer and wipe down top panel, bottom panel and remove and clean all knobs.\n\nMy dryer runs like a charm and no more piggy squeals!  I am a mom, if I can do it, so can you, grab the kids so they can help too!\n\nHope this helps!  Behappy doing your next repair!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3265, "id": 42220, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 456, "len_tokens": 567, "text": "Overview:\nCon(?): Ever so slightly teenier dimensions than listed here (which benefited me)\nPro: Keeps things that should stay out of the disposal, out of the disposal - like rings, spoons, and cats.  Kitty's lack of opposable thumbs render him unable to out-muscle and out-smart the tool!\n\nIn order to keep our cat (sigh) from having his two front legs perpetually damp and covered with whoknowswhat kind of bacteria or microbes or invisible food bits (not to mention, keeping him away from the dangers of a disposal anyhow), I researched all the options for disposal stoppers.  Honestly, there was one different company's that I wanted more (better reviews, in my opinion), but after measuring our disposal opening and reading the measurements on my options, this is the only one that *might* fit.\n\nActually, according to the dimensions here, even it might not fit, but hoping that the rubber rings would be flexible enough, I figured it was worth the few dollars to give it a shot.\n\nWell, this disposer tool is ever so slightly teenier in diameter than it mentions here, and in fact, it's slightly too tiny to be a snug fit for our sink.  The only downside of that is that it cannot ever work as a stopper, which is referenced here in the description and in some reviews.  It fits in perfectly, without slipping down past the rubber flanking in my own disposal, but even if I push it down \"snug\" - as far down as it will go - water still passes right on through.  I'm OK with that though - it is a better \"problem\" than what I was afraid would be the case.\n\nSo, I can keep it in the sink most of the time, including to run the disposal itself.  Yay!  Kitty is safe and my rings or forks or whatever will not fall into the depths of yikes.  I take it out when I am washing dishes to put a stopper in that actually works to hold water (a flat one that the cat has no problem removing, which is why I needed an item like this), or when I'm washing stuff down the drain.  Otherwise, food bits lay all over this, and that is just gnarly.  No one wants to have that.\n\nI knocked a star off, not even so much for the size being ever so slightly off, but because I feel like surely another design would be even better.  The Stuffer, for instance, looks more right and less likely to get gross to me (I'm concerned with stuff growing around and in the rubber rings if not religiously washed and cared for), but, hey, even The Stuffer had some reviews indicating some design flaws.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3266, "id": 87791, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3267, "id": 220227, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 362, "len_tokens": 521, "text": "This Whirlpool Portable Air Conditioner is great for small to midsized rooms and has some very nice features that separate this from other comparable units. Like another review, I also have a Whynter, but a different model (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whynter-12-000-BTU-Dual-Hose-Portable-Air-Conditioner-Frost-White-ARC-12SD/dp/B003MQBYYU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whynter 12,000 BTU Dual Hose Portable Air Conditioner, Frost White (ARC-12SD)</a>), that will be used for comparison. We have an older Victorian house that does not have central air and we had been cooling with standard in window units but, with the rough winters we get, we were getting tired of moving them in and out twice a year. The portable units do a great job and generally more than meet my needs. Here are my observations:\n\nPros -\n+ Cooling Ability; this unit easily chills my 15' x 20' (300 square feet) family room\n+ Features; Rapid Cool (lets you quickly bring the room temp down), Dehumidifying ability, Programmable Timer\n+ Compressor Noise; this is surprisingly quite, even at the highest setting\n+ Size; not too intrusively large, about the size of the old upright radio we have it setting near\n+ Portable; unit is fairly heavy but it is on wheels (note that the window vent needs to move with the unit)\n+ Remote Control; a handy addition with a digital display that lets you change the temperature, fan speed, and timer from across the room\n+ Easy Setup; my son and I had this unboxed and running within 15 minutes of opening the box\n\nCons -\n- Ugly Vent Hoses; while it can't be helped as they are needed, the hoses (look like dryer vent hoses) are an eyesore when extended out and totally incongruous with any decor (we keep ours retracted as much as possible except when needing to aim the Air Conditioning output to a different room)\n- One vent hose on this unit but, while adding some additional bulk, I prefer the Whynter's dual hose\n\nMisc -\n*Fan Noise; this can move a lot of air and makes the expected amount of fan noise when on the highest settings\n\nThis portable unit is a very good solution for my needs.\n\nHighly Recommended!\n\nCFH", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3268, "id": 516562, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 467, "len_tokens": 571, "text": "Becareful with this product's review on GE's website and Home Depot - they are very biased. Twice They've failed to publish my review. What's the point of publishing reviews?? Bought this dishwasher from my local Home Depot back in December 2014. Our decision to purchase this product was mainly based on quietness (based on reviews) and quality attributes (that GE is known for) - but so far disappointed! Loved everything about it until some black pliable material started falling from it after every use within 90days. It's truely quiet and dishes really gets clean and dry. Apparently, the broken material is part of the sound proof system that makes it quiet. It is now very noisy and feels like it's raining in my house when in use. It's been a frustrating experience trying to have it fixed. I'm going to have my 5th technician visit to diagnose the issue this Monday 3/16. Will share more updates and provide more details on what the 4 technicians thought the problem was.\n\nUPDATE: 04/01/2015\nGE's technician never showed up as they promised. In all honesty, I don't know why anyone will buy a GE product. They have the worst Customer Service in the industry. Their consumer advocate is a joke seriously. I still have 4 different parts they shipped into my house that they don't want them anymore (see pictures). What kind of company spends money on parts for nothing? These 4 different parts are based on the different assessment their technicians made on their low quality product. I took the issue to my local HD and they decided to replace the dish washer. I'm gave them the benefit of the doubt and thought maybe I was unlucky and got a bad one so I agreed to a replacement. I was supposed to get the new dishwasher yesterday but no one called or showed up. I called GE delivery today and they told me the found product damage while they were loading the product for delivery. As a result, they ordered a new one and it will arrive on 04/07. I just laughed and said bye. You will think they will have the decency to call to let me know. Nope! Geniuses... they didn't. They don't care about the customer waiting. Like I said GE Customer Service is point blank USELESS!! I was never surprised! I'm sure they will have another lousy excuse on 04/07. I feel sorry for HD for being the middle-guy here. Next is to take them to national/Fed consumer complaints. Don't waste your hard earned money on GE products. As a veteran, the last thing I want to do is to play these stupid games with companies. I feel like I'm dealing with a Mom n Pop type of company. Stay tuned for more updates.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3269, "id": 88175, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3270, "id": 345971, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 469, "len_tokens": 558, "text": "Ok I have this and a laundry alternative spin dryer. I can wash a pair of pants, 2 workshirts, some under wear and socks in 1 load. Washes in about 15 mins- tho you can set it for less time. The spin dryer goes for 5 minutes  I and boom your done,, just hang stuff up and it's  a dry in a couple hours :) synthetic dries faster, like just  under an hour. I find that my clothes are still kinda dirty after laundry mat wash and this lil machine frankly gets stuff cleaner...like, here's a great example:\nI had a white t-shirt with graphics on it that I washed at laundry mat. All I did was sleep in it, so didn't really get it dirty. But I had some white socks and underwear to wash, too, so I threw them in with just this shirt...was just 2 pairs of socks and 1 pair of under wear...again, all stuff I slept in only once. When I washed them, all this gross grey colored water came out of these clothes...has not used any soap, just a touch of oxiclean in the wonder washer. I rinsed my clothes 3 times, cuz apparently the oxi clean broke loose laundry soap dinge and build up. Stuff came out noticeably whiter once the water ran clear, and I am a believer in this lil machine!\nI constantly use it now to stay ahead of the laundry piling up,and save laundry mat trips now for doing towels and bigger things at won't fit.\nA good note is to not overfill this machine, cuz it rinses clothes better if you don't. I run it on a wash cycle, then put my shower head in and rinse a couple times til the water runs clear :) I love that I'm done in 20 mins between a wash and a spin dryer and only have to hang things up. It's a lot faster than waiting an hour and plus for the washer at the laundry mat. No line no waiting no quarters. I figure this and the spin dryer paid for themselves in under 6 months with just 2 of us :)\nI did crack the lid near where the handle is on the bucket, but it doesn't seem to be a big deal, everything is still working great and not leaking :)\nIf you over fill it, it will splash a little on the floor so don't over fill past the line. Also, I put mine in a corner to make sure it doesn't tip or spill, cuz if you get it out of balance a little, it splashes a little bit too.i run mine in the bathroom of our RV and if the one breaks I'm buying another one cuz it's such a great help!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3271, "id": 57996, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 439, "len_tokens": 514, "text": "Ok.....I have a single story house (six years old) with the laundry room in the center of the house. The dryer vents straight up about 9 to 10 feet, then a 45 degree turn, then another 5 to 6 feet to an elbow which exits through the exhaust cap out the roof. About twice per year I have always used an electric leaf blower to blow it out. It worked decently but lint would always catch on the exhaust cap and my roof pitch is so steep that I will not go up there again. (tried once, not again)..What I do is get on a ladder to the edge of the roof and use a long pole with a brush attached to the end of it and work it around the roof cap until the lint is broken free. That being said, I never knew how much lint was remaining in the 16 to 18 foot vent run..Today I received this, read instructions. Used a cordless drill (but going from the laundry room out the top (I had no other choice) Nothing came loose at all (not even close to lose) thanks to the items screwing on clockwise and running the drill clockwise made everything stay on tight.\n\nAfter using six of the eight extension wands I finally couldn't get it to go any further.....I stopped/went out to see if I could see the brush attachment in the roof cap at all (I didn't) but it must have been very close because lint was being pushed out of the cap (with no airflow because nothing was on other than the brush itself). I went back in, ran the brush a little more then started pulling it back out and a bunch of lint came with it (a plastic shopping bag full).....I then got a leaf blower to blow out what additional lint I had loosened...(OH MY G**) the amount of lint that came out onto the roof was staggering! I ran it up through the roof once more and got zero lint out! It's all clean now.......So for those of you who think a leaf blower works (it does) but you're not getting all the lint with a leaf blower (like I thought I was).....I had to purchase this item but I had to purchase the extensions from another seller which I thought was odd. I had to get 2 different packages shipped instead of buying everything from one seller..But it's worth it in the end. This thing can be reused over and over and it took NO TIME to do the job. Thanks", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3272, "id": 64081, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 431, "len_tokens": 526, "text": "Searching for a range hood is a frustrating process. None of them seem to be built as well as their high price would suggest.  Features are bundled together, so that it is difficult to get, for example, a strong, high capacity hood without a lot of bells and whistles that you might not want.  One of the features that I wanted to avoid was an electronic circuit board in the hood.  I have unreliable power where I live and have had to replace circuit boards in other appliances.  The price of replacement circuit boards seems outrageous given that they are sensitive components prone to failure, particularly in a high heat environment.  Like the auto industry, the range hood industry makes a lot of profit on replacement parts.  As an exercise, I added up the cost of purchasing separately all of the components of a common $400 range hood.  The cost of replacing all components was over $1700.\n\nAfter much frustrating searching I called Broan technical service to ask if they could suggest a minimum 450 cfm hood without a circuit board.  A knowledgeable gentleman directed me to several hoods, one of which was the model 893004. This stainless, 30 inch under cabinet hood is old school in character, with only two on/off switches for the fan and light, and a rheostat (slider) to control fan speed.  On high speed it will completely exhaust smoke from pans on the front burner.  My unit is vented directly through the wall.  I removed the internal damper and rely solely on the wall vent external damper as the internal damper catches more grease and can eventually begin to stick.  In a cold climate you might want to retain the internal damper.  It will accommodate two 75 watt bulbs and illuminates the cook surface very well.  The noise is acceptable, and the design, while not modern, is attractive.\n\nWhen initially installed I noticed that the blower unit wobbled slightly and created vibration in the hood.  I called Broan service  and they quickly sent me a replacement blower- five stars for customer service.  Minus one star because this range hood, and I suspect all range hoods, could be built better for a couple nickels more.  For example, one part of the metal blower unit simply rests on a metal ledge in the hood- no screws.  This seems like a likely source of vibration so I cut a small strip of rubber and placed in on the ledge between the two metal surfaces.  In a perfect world, where quality was paramount, this would be done at the factory.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3273, "id": 228957, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 467, "len_tokens": 537, "text": "First, this video is your friend: [...]\n\nWatch it before you follow my directions below, and watch it all the way through before starting. That was all I needed to do the removal and install, though here are a couple points which apply to replacing IceMagic Plus units.\n\nIceMagic Plus is just a fan, a switch, some wiring, and some plastic, which connects as a module in place of the normal white cover on the front of the icemaker. Do yourself a favor and use a long large flatblade screwdriver to release the two black metal clips which hold the IceMagic Plus module to the rest of the icemaker *before* you remove the old icemaker from your freezer, but after unplugging power and turning off water, of course. You have to get this module off in order to remove the plug on the wiring harness from the icemaker during removal, and you may find the other end of the harness is permanently attached to inside of freezer, unlike what you see in the above video. You'll also need to remove these clips from the old unit after it is out (pivot to one side then use needlenose pliers to pull clips out) and reinstall these clips before installing the new icemaker *without* front cover installed. Once it is in place, with the clips installed, just push the whole IceMagic Plus unit onto the front of the icemaker module you installed (without the front cover) and you should be good to go. Of course you can leave the IceMagic Plus module off and just use the cover, but why give up the bonus functionality which makes ice faster when you might need it later?\n\nUnit can take up to several hours before it does anything while it waits for thermostat to detect the whole unit is cold enough. I didn't have to level my unit (it uses the stock slide-on mounts and not the ones in the plastic bag) or adjust water level. I did move the white plastic mounting bracket from the bottom of my failed original icemaker instead of using the one provided with the new unit. Also, it is a little tricky to cut out the rear water opening with a razor knife, but can be done if you are patient and BE VERY CAREFUL. If anyone has a better way to remove it, please add a comment to my review.\n\nIf this was helpful to you, please click that it was useful to help it be higher in review listings, so others can save big money on this fairly easy DIY repair. I am sure the labor would have been more than $75 to have someone come out, and even then they'd probably insist on selling me a much more expensive unit as well!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3274, "id": 87487, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3275, "id": 431099, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 443, "len_tokens": 521, "text": "I wanted to wait and use the ice maker for a while before writing a review, as quite often things that start out great end up disappointing. I can now give a pretty solid endorsement. Aside from a couple of small quibbles (which I will get to) I am suitably impressed.\nOur last countertop ice maker died peacefully in its' sleep after a long and chilling life.  It was a manual fill, manual empty model, and we had just gotten used to all of its faults (slow, poorly insulated; we manually emptied the ice into a bin in the freezer and kept an ice pick handy to break it all up...) After a couple of months buying bags of ice we decided it was time to look into a replacement.\nTo answer a few of the questions/complaints I have seen in other reviews:\n*A user manual was included with  mine, but the instructions could have been better. I didn't have any trouble at all though.\n*DO follow the advice to leave it on the counter with all the doors open for a couple of hours before using it\n*DO plan on tossing out most of the ice made the first day you have it. (allow lots of fresh clean water to cycle through)\n*I do wish it had a slightly larger capacity ice storage bin.\n*I have not had any trouble with the dispenser being unable to dispense the ice because of it freezing together. It isn't the fastest dispenser I've seen, but it works fine\n*The water supply line you need is \"standard\" for ice makers and many water filters: 1/4-inch OD, and uses a quick-fit (push in type) connector on the back of the machine. I also ran an inline water filter I picked up at home depot for a few bucks. (be sure to pre-flush the filter if you add one, the first bit of water run through new filters is usually black as it washes the carbon dust off...)\n*The water is dispensed from the reservoir. For the occasional glass this is nice because it means the water is probably well chilled already (runoff from the ice making process and melt from the ice storage bin both go into the water reservoir) But this does mean it might be a bit slow to fill more than one or two glasses back to back.\n*I do wish there were a way to adjust the volume, or mute the ding tones, but I haven't found them obnoxious and they don't wake me at night.\n\nOverall, this ice machine does what I expect from it, and it does it without any trouble.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3276, "id": 504038, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 451, "len_tokens": 591, "text": "This is truly one of the most horrific products I have ever used.\n\nThis washer and dryer combo is so incredible slow to wash and dry your clothes that you will be spitting mad. The intelligent washer wastes more time analyzing your load than washing your load.\n\nWhen it does finally get around to washing your clothes, the agitation is anemic and whimpy and you will wonder if it does anything at all. This is a horrendous washer. The \"timer\" that tells you how much time remains actually ADDS time....so if you think it will be 59 minutes to wash your clothes and then you look 10 minutes later...it will say 56 minutes.\n\nThis thing is such an amazing piece of junk that LG should get out of the appliance business.\n\nI don't write many reviews, but I wrote this to warn others.\n\nDO NOT BUY this.\n\nThe electronics and smart features slow your wash down to a crawl...it is just junk.\n\nStink to a tried and true brand like Kenmore or Whirlpool -- and skip the ridiculous electronics.\n\nI literally despise this product. IF YOU WASH YOUR CLOTHES WITH this even once, you will be full of anger.\n\nIt truly stinks that bad.\n\n...and they dryer can't handle the load that you might put in the dryer....and the dryer is as slow as molasses.\n\nThese LG products absolutely stink.\n\nThey LOOK cool...and the nice bells and whistles are fun and interesting for about 1 day....and then when you are left with a slow as molasses washer that does a horrendous job -- a \"load\" balance system that takes forever and forever to analyze, re-analyze, analyze again....before it does a half-a**ed job of attempting to wash your clothes....OH MY GOD.\n\nYOU WILL DEEPLY REGRET THIS PURCHASE.\n\nWhat you want in a washer is speed, capacity, vigorous washing and not endless whirring about doing nothing.\n\n...and a dryer needs at least as large a capacity as the wash....a large enough tumble space to aerate the clothes (so they don't just end up in a damp heap) and speed.\n\nTHESE PRODUCTS ARE TRULY HORRENDOUS.\n\nStick to simple, powerful, heavy duty and fast....\n\nThe electronic locking lid on the Washer will drive you absolutely insane.\n\nIf you think this experience is a unique one, be sure to do you own research.\n\nhttp://www.consumeraffairs.com/homeowners/lg_washing_machine.html\n\nThere are even videos describing how bad these machines are.\n\nI have no axe to grind with LG, but these products are truly terrible.\n\nI grew up with Kenmore, Maytag and Whirlpool. They were built like tanks, were fast and got out all the dirt without fuss or muss....\n\nThese \"modern\" applicances are so aggravating, I'd rather a stone and a puddle.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3277, "id": 62632, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 342, "len_tokens": 504, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R1Y4ZGEZ9LV2NK\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D1IW1ktmhNS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81MeA1A-2kS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;All I can say is ....WOW!! I wish I had done this sooner. After exhausting but fun research, scouring the internet learning about induction, I finally pulled the trigger. I cannot tell you how pleased I am, ESPECIALLY with the clean up. My old gas cook top was black and was such a chore to clean up. My new induction top wipes off effortlessly because the top itself does not get hot, therefore spill overs do not bake on. The top does get hot eventually directly under the pan because it has a hot pan sitting on it.\nNow for something different than the other reviews. My home was wired with a 30 amp circuit to the cook top and research will say that you will need 40 amps. This particular top will only let you have two burners on \"Boost\" at the same time. To max out the rated amperage you must have all the burners on high at the same time. When you see how hot and fast that really is... I SERIOUSLY doubt you will ever need that. Induction is so efficient, that most of our cooking is done on #3 to #5. The scale is 1-10. The higher settings are for frying and boiling. I don't have the need to have 4 skillets frying or 4 pots of water boiling at the same time and I don't think I ever will. Anyway.... before considering calling the electrician, I decided to try it awhile first and see if we trip the breaker. If we do, and it becomes a problem, then we can deal with increasing the wire size and changing the breaker to a 40 amp. So far we have NEVER tripped any breakers and the top works absolutely flawless. DO NOT let the fact that you have a 30 amp service steer you away from considering an induction top. I suggest trying it first, THEN see if you need to increase your breaker size.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3278, "id": 244289, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 440, "len_tokens": 581, "text": "The Spektrum DX8 Radio (8 Channel) was my first real RC radio.  I am still quite new to this hobby and some items are expensive such as radios, so I can only compare the DX8 with my DX4e which is not really a comparison.  It was a bit intimidating stepping up to this radio from the DX4e.  There are way more switches and settings, settings, and settings.  Overall I LOVE THIS RADIO!  Take some time and read the manual.  Take your time learning it, you will not be able to just go as soon as you pull it out of the box if this is your first real radio.  Go here and watch Finless Bobs Videos.  This radio introduces you to how complicated this hobby is, so my biggest piece of advice is to take your time learning it.  Despite all of the negative feedback when the radio was first introduced, Spektrum did fix all of the kinks and this radio is a beauty to use.  I am glad this was my first.  I will compare all of my future radios to this one.  I am truly grateful for everything that this radio as taught me and how it still operates like a dream.\n\nI was skeptical at the price of this radio, but new that I was hooked on this hobby and that I am here to stay so I went all in.  It was a good investment and I have yet to regret this purchase.  It works with all my helis:  Blade MSR, Blade mCP X, Blade mCP X BL, Blade Nano CP X, Blade Nano QX, Blade 130 X, Align Trex 250, and even my Parkzone F-27Q Stryker 180 airplane.  The radio even works flawlessly with my flight simulator Phoenix RC.  There is not much else to say other than this radio is AWESOME!  It completely ROCKS!  It is all that I hoped it would be and then some, so if you are on the fence about it don't worry.  The Spektrum DX8 is worth the dough and will keep you flying time and time again.  My only complaint so far is the stock battery that comes with it.  I will get into that below and what you will need to take care of the issue, which really isn't an issue.  Just a bit of BS.  Ive put off this page due to the amount of information.  There is a lot so keep coming back for updates.  If you would like to request specific information feel free to email me and I will get it up here as soon as I can.\n\nMore detailed information at:  diysoup.com/do-it-yourself/hobby/remote-control-helicopters/spektrum-dx8-radio-8-channel/", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3279, "id": 89211, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 512, "len_tokens": 599, "text": "In terms of doing its basic job of displaying information about CO2 level, humidity and temperature of the air in the immediate area, it seems to do its job.  I must, of course, add the caveat that I don't have another device around that I can compare its readings to, but I can say that the CO2 level, humidity and temperature indications on this device do seem to track with actions in a room that you would expect to raise or lower these numbers in the way that it indicates.\n\nHowever, its user interface was crafted with no care or concern for making it easy or even remotely understandable to operate.  It was clearly created by people who were afraid of spending a few more pennies to put a few more buttons with labels that make sense or to put the kind of all-points-addressible LCD display on this thing that would allow it to spell out its menu options and various air quality conditions with REAL WORDS.\n\nInstead, it displays codes like \"E02\" to indicate that the humidity is too low for it to measure, and menus are organized in a weird nested system numbered \"P10\" through \"P30\" with submenus numbered even more weirdly -- you wouldn't believe what you have to do just to set the time or adjust it for daylight savings time!  What fool came up this?  This is actually worse than setting the clock on even the most inconsiderately designed VCR!\n\nAlso, returning to the buttons, although the positioning of the buttons along the bottom edge may add a certain bit to its \"cuteness\" in terms of how it looks, the visual appeal quickly fades when you realize how all-too-easy it is to pick this silly thing up in a way that causes one of those buttons to accidentally be pressed.  When you do that, things start changing on the display, and unless you're someone who regularly works with the controls so that you have the crazy array of options memorized so that you understand what the weird not-real-words indications are telling you, you have to pull out the manual to figure out how to undo whatever you accidentally did by accidentally pressing one of the very poorly placed buttons.\n\nTo top all of this off, and almost as if to confirm that someone went out of their way to design this thing to be especially annoying to use, they printed the user manual in tiny print on tiny pages (pages roughly about 1/3 the size of standard letter-sized pages) making it especially annoying to find the operating instructions you're looking for to do something like set the time (of course, it's under menu P30, submenu P33 -- naturally! -- I should have known!).\n\nTo sum this up, it seems to actually do its job -- that's a good thing.  But it's so horrible to interact with that I will happily part with it for a different CO2 meter with a user interface that someone actually tried to make user friendly, or at least not user hostile!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3280, "id": 408913, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 433, "len_tokens": 527, "text": "I purchased this fridge because if was finally time to give up my dorm fridge\nwhich has lasted well over 30 years since graduating college.  I have been\nusing it all this time as a beer fridge at various places and although it still\nworks, I was concerned that it was using up way too much electricity.  I was\nlooking for a replacement that would be more energy efficient and was\nglad to find this one.\n\nThe unit came well packaged in a big box for the fridge and then placed\ninside a shipping box.  It was held together by fiberglass (i think, or maybe\nnylon) packing bands / straps that were easy to remove, and once the straps\nwere cut the box lifted right over the top of the fridge.  The fridge didn't need\nto be lifted out.\n\nI read the directions but didn't really follow them.  It says to plug it in and\nwait 24 hours before loading and not to fill it up too much. Well... I already\nhad a fridge full of cold beer and wasn't going to let it get warm, so I just\nplugged it in and loaded in the beer.  I also use it to keep bait in for\nfishing (worms) so I put those in as well.  I set it for a little under Max\nTemp then checked it 2 hours later and everything was cold / nothing\nwas frozen.  I checked it the next morning and results were the same...\nlot's of cold drinks.\n\nThere is a lot of room in this fridge as you can see from the pictures I've\nincluded.  I was able to fit plenty of beer (both bottles and cans), 2 bottles\nof wine on the door some water and some worms.  There is also a useful\nrack on the door to hold cans.\n\nI really like the size of the freezer.  It is great to keep dry ice in so I can\neasily load a cooler.  I keep this in a downstairs hallway right near the front\ndoor and my main fridge is upstairs, so with this freezer I never have to bring\nthe ice upstairs. There is plenty of room for ice cube trays, a bag of ice or\neven some frozen food.\n\nThis is a really nice fridge.  Roomy, convenient and I hope more energy\nefficient than my old dorm one (-:\n\nI've included some pics so you can see how packed it really is.  The great\npart is that everything is cold!!\n\nI received this product at a discounted price in exchange for my honest review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3281, "id": 117077, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 395, "len_tokens": 575, "text": "<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/SHP1700W-Refrigerator/dp/B003EG4J7C/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">SHP1700W Refrigerator</a>\nMay 16, 2011\n\nI have had this mini refrig. for approx. 2 months.  I was looking for a lightweight mini refrig, that cooled well and would hold a bottle of wine (upright) and soft drinks.  This is it!  I like my drinks to be very cold so I keep this on the coolest setting.  According to my refrig. thermometer, the temp stays between 34 & 38 degrees F.  I have noticed no discernable difference in my electric bill.  The 2 shelves are adjustable or removable as needed.  The door has the usual built in shelf for holding the upright, large wine or 3 liter soft drink bottle.  There is a bar which holds the items on the shelf.  Only one upright bottle fits here.  Smaller items (cans, condiment bottles such as mustard, ketsup, pickles, etc) can fit next to the upright bottle on this shelf.  There is a smaller built in shelf which fits above the condiments which might hold butter or other small items.  It also has a bar across it.  I place 12 oz. cans, in a row of 5 on top and 5 on bottom, on each shelf in the main body of the refrig. (that's a total of 3 shelves counting the bottom of the refrig.).  I will try to remember to update this again around the 1 year mark.  I am very pleased with this so far.\n\nUPDATE:\nMAY 9, 2012\n\nI have owned this mine refrig. for 1 year and 2 months.  The fan is now making the most gawd-awful noise ever!  It will wake me for a sound sleep it is so loud.  For the time being, I can turn the unit off for 1 hour and then restart it and it runs silently for awhile.  I can see that I will, soon, have to get rid of this.  I will have a shop look at it but suspect that the Labor charges will end up making it almost as cheap to replace & how long will it run before it goes again?  It cost approx. $117.00 (with shipping) last year.  I am not happy about the probability of replacing it so soon.  I will not buy this brand again.  Hope others are faring better with theirs.  I will say that it cooled very well before this problem with the fan.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3282, "id": 100611, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 390, "len_tokens": 511, "text": "So at first, this thing was very difficult to understand how to REALLY work it. The instructions are vague at best so here's what I found out about it:\n\n  1)  Pounds per load is based on WET clothes... now that I say it, I'm thinking \"Duh!\"\n\n  2)  If you don't make sure the lid actually LOCKED, chances are you're going to get a waterfall (found that out the hard way). The screw thinger holding the lid in place can actually get in the way of turning it to the locked position so make sure you loosen it a bit more then just to take the lid off.\n\n  3)  Put water amount in first with detergent and then add your WET clothes and its perfect. You'll hear the swish swash swish swash of a normal wash instead of fwop flop fwop flop... if you hear the secondary, you need more water. I would hear the flop fwop all the time until I realized, \"Hey, soggy clothes are better.\" lol\n\n  4)  When the instructions say \"2 minute load\" its literally 160 revolutions at a second a piece. Count it out and do it slower then you think and you'll get better results.\n\n  5)  Use WARM water, please... WAAAAAY better results.\n\n  6)  Remove the lid BEFORE attaching the drain... I've annoyed myself pretty bad by forgetting that lol\n\n  7)  I've heard of people complaining about rinsing. \"I had to rinse 3-4 times before the water came out clear!!!\" Honestly, a normally washer doesn't rinse out ALL of the detergent or color bleed, so get over it. What I do is start off with the 2 minute wash, once drained I'll add more water and do a 30 second rinse. After draining that, I'll add more water (each time I'll replace the water with the recommended amount per instructions...) and a little of my fabric softener and do another 30 revolutions/seconds. Drain and VIOLA! Done and clean!\n\n  All in all, I love this machine. It can get messy at times, but so can the dishes so I am totally okay with it. I'm so glad I bought it considering buying cost me about half of what it costs me a month to do my household of 4's laundry. I would recommend this to anyone and everyone.\n\nI hope all that helps!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3283, "id": 462413, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 450, "len_tokens": 552, "text": "I cant believe how easy it was to do this repair!! My old tray had snapped, and we were tired of using manual ice trays so decided to go for it. Im SO glad we did!!\n\nIt actually took longer to figure out how to replace the tray than actually replace it  literally only about 1 minute to complete the actual repair.\n\nHere are the steps I used for my RF265 model.\n\n1) Check Ytb for a video about replacing the tray  NOTE  you do NOT have to remove the unit from the freezer like he does in the video. Its great that he does so you can see the parts, but it is NOT necessary. I literally just snapped the front motor housing piece out (starting at minute 6:01), put the new tray in, and snapped it back in place.\n\nNote  External links are not allowed in reviews, but if you search for How to Fix the Ice cube Tray in the Ice Maker in a Samsung RF 266 Refrigerator by Tony Veroeven, you will have exactly what you need.\n\n2) Also by Tony Veroeven, watch the video about replacing the sensor so you know how to put it back together.\n\nNote  Search for How to Fix a Samsung Refrigerator Ice Maker - Large ice chunks not breaking apart (Read description) to find what you need.\n\n3) Take everything out of your freezer, and squeeze down in the empty drawer space. (Note  this part is easier if the refrigerator doors above you are open.)\n\n4) If you have a cover on the front of your ice maker, remove it. (The cover just snaps on and off.) See pictures below for reference if you aren't sure.\n\nNote  Search the Samsung dot com site for a PDF called How_To_Reset_The_Ice_Makers_In_Samsung_Fench_Door_Refrigerators and you will have the reference you need.\n\n5) Snap the front motor housing piece out (starting at minute 6:01 in video 1), put the new ice tray in, and snap the front motor housing piece back in place.\n\n6) Reinstall the temperature sensor in the foam piece, and snap it back in place.\n\n7) Put everything back in the freezer, and then turn the ice maker back on (using the button on the front control display panel in the top of the refrigerator).\n\n8) Press and hold the reset button on the bottom of the front motor housing piece for a few seconds until you hear the ice maker start to move. The safe pdf from item 4 above has the instructions for this.\n\n9) If you have a cover for your ice maker, put it back on.\n\n10) In a few hours, you should start seeing ice again. Enjoy!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3284, "id": 312339, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 438, "len_tokens": 560, "text": "Update (11-24-2015)  I have returned to upgrade my earlier review of these filters after having used my Wemo Humidifier for over a year now. Here's what I've discovered.  If you keep the filters moist they will indeed last 3 to 4 months.  And Holmes is now offering the filters here on Amazon for six or seven dollars less than they had been priced ($24.99 or 95 I forget which now down to $17.99 as of this writing) and with 4 months service that is a reasonable price for a set of whole house filters.  I also recommend bacteriotstat to keep contamination out of the water itself and you're good to go.\n\nI love the programmable aspect of the humidifier and the Wemo app works great on my smart phone and on my tablet.  It keeps me informed of water levels and the 7 day timer works great.  So I am here to eat crow and recommend these filters now.  Hope this helps you decide.\n\nOriginal Review:\n\nTwo filters you need for the new Wemo WiFi humidifier, about every sixty days.  Way...Way...Way...Overpriced.  Figure on around $150.00 a year.\n\nNice game.  The humidifier itself is amazing but of course you're tied to these expensive cheaply made paper/plastic filters for life.\n\nUpdate:  03-04-2015  Have now experienced the drying out problem others have written about and it's true.  Once the filters are dry they never give 100% output again.  About 70 to 75% output after the first drying and exponentially decreasing thereafter.  I soaked them for thirty minutes as Holmes suggests and they were literally falling apart.  The black plastic grid was just breaking into little pieces.  What a mess!\n\nI whole heartedly agree that a machine that works as effortlessly as this should have filters that work and function just as effortlessly.  That would be worth the $24.95 or whatever replacement cost, but since the drying problem is inevitable unless your obsessive compulsive they are not worth the outlay...and that means that this wonderful piece of technology becomes frustrating to use and useless in the long run.\n\nMy recommendation is not to buy until Holmes has addressed the filter issue and offers much better filters at reasonable prices.  I am putting my old humidifier back in because it works and the filters last and don't cost an arm and a leg. (this i didn't wind up doing because I had two filter sets to use up in the Wemo Humidifier and during the process of using them and because the unit would warn me when water was low I discovered that the trick is not to let them dry out).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3285, "id": 87959, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3286, "id": 88599, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3287, "id": 215056, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 478, "len_tokens": 574, "text": "Update: Almost another year, and it's still working great. Maybe I got lucky, but I have had no problems with it.\n\n1) While the refrigerator is noisier than my old one, the manual does state that it will be a little louder. The only time I hear it is in the morning or late evening when it's quiet in the house, otherwise, I don't even notice it.\n\n2) I still very rarely use the hot water.\n\n3) I still think it's great with lots of room and have had no cooling issues.\n\n4) I still think filters are way over priced :-)\n\n------------\nUpdate: After about 1 year later, I'm still loving the fridge. It's been working great and I've had no problems since the initial repair for the USB. (Maybe it's time I updated the pictures on it again). The filter cost is way outrageous (but so is every other filter for refrigerators, it's kind of like ink for printers).\n\n----------------\nI love the fridge. It's roomy, bright and easy to get to everything. I've had it for two months so far.\n\nPros:\nEasy access to most everything.\nWell lit\nNice gadgety front touch screen\nGE service was easy to contact and easy to get a repairman out there. (see below about the repair)\nThe water/ice taste great (my old refrigerator never had good tasting water or ice)\nAll around, it's a great product and keeps a stable temperature.\n\nCons:\nCan't see the temperature in freezer and fridge unless you act like you're going to change the temperature on the display panel, then it will show the current temperature. I guess they figured it will be at what you set it.\n\nI had a repairman out within two days of getting the fridge because the USB port did not work. (I'm a gadget freak and that's the first thing I tried). It took about a week for the both the parts and the repairman to come out, but I was in no hurry as it wasn't like the fridge was ruining food.\n\nHot water is kind of a waste. I use it every now and then, but having to wait 5 minutes for hot water is kind of long. Especially for the few ounces that you get each time. I have a full time hot water dispenser next to it, so I guess I'm spoiled.\n\nWater dispenser stops if the door is opened (either side)... not sure why it would stop if the right side is opened, but it does.\n\nIt does run somewhat louder than my old fridge, but not enough to complain about. (Maybe a better term is that it has a different sound than my old fridge... not sure if it's louder)\n\nSummary:\nI would buy it again. The price I got was incredible so I couldn't refuse ;-)...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3288, "id": 87311, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3289, "id": 86208, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 431, "len_tokens": 598, "text": "I have a Samsung RF267 series French door fridge with two different issues.  It had the common problem in the top compartment where ice blocked the drain hole so water pooled in the bottom of the Cool Select Pantry.  Additionally, the freezer temperature was set to -2 degrees F and the display showed -2 degrees F.  However, two different mercury thermometers showed the freezer temperature to be colder than -10 degrees F.\n\nAbundant videos online show the fix to the ice drain plug problem.  A DA61-06796A Clip Drain Evaporator attached to the heater element keeps the drain hole from freezing.  The older/short Clip Drain Evaporator is held in place by an aluminum pop rivet.  A small flat head screwdriver can be used to remove the old component.  The root cause of the drain hole freeze problem is the defroster thermocouple.\n\nA thermocouple changes resistance as temperature varies and is the component allowing the computer to tell the temperature.  Two thermocouples were bad, one for the defroster and the other for the freezer compartment.\n\nPer other online sites and Amazon's parts checker, there are three different thermocouples for my model: DA32-10105B, DA32-00006S, and DA32-10105X.  Nowhere does anyone mention which thermocouple goes with which function.  Note that the connectors and wire lengths are different for different models.  DA32-00006S is the defroster thermocouple.  A failure in this component causes the coils to ice up.\n\nDA32-10105X is the refrigerator compartment thermocouple.  It is on the plastic cover that must be removed to access the coils from inside the fridge.\n\nDA32-10105B is the freezer compartment thermocouple.  Again, there is no mention online of where this thermocouple is located.  On the roof the freezer compartment, look past the light fixture towards the back of the freezer.  There is a small vented grill.  This grill holds the freezer thermocouple.  Gently pry it out with a small flathead screwdriver.  You might break a few plastic tabs on the grill.  Only a few intact tabs are needed to keep the thermocouple from falling down.\n\nUnless you're very flexible or are willing to work by feel, it might be advisable to remove the freezer door.  First, remove the Sliding Drawer, the Tilting Basket, and the Main Basket.  Next, take off the freezer door by removing the four hex head screws from the sliding brackets using a 10mm socket and ratchet.  With the door out of the way, it is easy to sit on the floor and access the freezer thermocouple grill.\n\nOnce you have your fridge defrosted to replace one thermocouple, you might as well go ahead and replace all three.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3290, "id": 66519, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 492, "len_tokens": 558, "text": "We were the first owners of the house and had never cleaned the vent in 7 years. We were buying a new dryer so I thought I'd give this a shot since I was going to detach the dryer anyways.\n\nI tried to use my new Bosch cordless drill but the chuck was too small and no adapter was included. My old craftsman drill fit but the battery didn't last long. I figured it was cheaper to buy a corded drill instead since I didn't own one.\n\nThere is a reason they recommend cordless drill. The process is very easy and safe with a cordless drill. However, the torque applied by the corded drill caused the cable to whip round and round since the trigger wasn't very sensitive (I got the best drill I could find for ~60$). This caused the metal end of the cable to break and smack me on the arm missing my eye. Did I mention I'm not even close to being handyman?\n\nSo here are the steps (follow at your own risk) :\n\n1) You should wear eye protection and mask before you begin. Remove the flap or whichever type of vent cover you have outside. Detach the aluminium tube connecting the dryer to the vent duct at the dryer end. Attached the shop vac attachment to the vacuum and attach it to the tube in the house. Make sure the vac is set to blow the air outside. Turn your vacuum on and go outside to check whether the air is blowing in the right direction. Attach the vent brush (not the lint trap brush) at the end of one rod and make sure you screw in the tiny screw in to the brush. Connect the other end of the brush to the drill and ALWAYS make sure the drill is rotating clockwise even when pulling the rod out. Insert the rod in to the vent outlet outside the house. Once the rod is 2/3 way in attach another one. Repeat for each rod segment. When done pull the rod out and dissemble each section.\n\n2) Turn off and detach the shop vac from inside of the house and move it near the vent outlet outside. Vacuum the lint pieces that were blown out from the vent.\n\n3) Connect the shop vac with the included adapter to the outside vent outlet. Change the setting to suck the air in. Turn the vac on. Repeat the steps mentioned in step one the only change being that you will be inserting the rod in to the vent duct from inside the house.\n\n4) I didn't need to clean the lint trap using the included brush but you may want to.\n\nThe amount of lint removed was substantial and the drying time was cut in half. Mission accomplished.\n\nI took 1 star away since the rod doesn't fit smaller chucks and they don't include an adapter with it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3291, "id": 468007, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 481, "len_tokens": 565, "text": "The cooktop arrived in a very timely manner, but we didn't open it until we were just about to finish remodeling our kitchen.  On the day that we scheduled installation of the new countertops and the new cooktop we had purchased from The Price Pros, I opened, and attempted to pull the cooktop from, the box and immediately noticed that the cooktop was damaged in two areas and the color had come of in those two places.  Because of the damaged areas on their cooktop, I cut my fingers in two places while attempting to remove it from its box.\n\nI contacted Amazon (by phone) and they told me to contact The Price Pros by email directly, which I did.  I contacted Amazon and then this company on Wednesday, December 14th and received no response from them, until almost two weeks later, on Monday, December 26th. I don't know why it took so long for someone to respond to me.  I really can not understand the neglect in The Price Pros' customer service procedures.  We really had an emergency situation as we were preparing to host our annual family Christmas dinner in our home.\n\nSince we did not hear back from them in a timely manner, we went on and had the damaged cooktop installed along with the new countertop (otherwise, we would not have had anything to cook on for the dinner).  The installer straightened out the dented areas as much as possible and then my wife attempted to cover it with black paint, all so that we could enjoy a wonderful Christmas.\n\nWhen The Price Pros finally responded, all they wrote in their email was that they would send us another cooktop AFTER they received the damaged one back.  How ridiculous is that?  This would mean that we will be without a stove for the time that it takes for us to send the damaged one back, for them to receive it, and then for them to send us a replacement.\n\nThe Price Pros should be able to stand by their product and do everything in their power to rectify this situation to the satisfaction of the customer.  I had confidence in Amazon enough to purchase from The Price Pros' company and send my money to them trusting that they would send me a working product without flaws or blemishes.  They have not done that, and I feel that some type of consideration should be made on their part.  They should send me a new cooktop and then allow me to send them the damaged one back.  This would assure that we will not be without a way to cook for our family.  Nevertheless, The Price Pros are being VERY inconsiderate!!!\n\nThis has really been a disturbing experience and I will NEVER order from The Price Pros again, or even recommend them to anyone either.\n\nSo, \"Buyer Beware\"!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3292, "id": 88487, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3293, "id": 361089, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 471, "len_tokens": 568, "text": "This was a perfect transaction.  I looked at all of the models of 18 inch dishwashers and all of them had their pluses and minuses;  even the most expensive models.  The SPT was truly no worse in its reviews and it was a LOT less expensive.\nIt arrived on time.  It had excellent packaging.  The delivery was up six steps to our front porch by UPS and that was perfect.\n\nI was replacing a GE 18 inch washer because it was 10 years old and the pump was failing.  It was a very tight space and the specifications for the SPT were exact so it fit in perfectly into the slot.  I originally  installed the GE by myself and had to replace a few parts along the way so I am probably considered experienced in doing my own work.  But, I learned how to do my own work by reading the manual, asking a few questions at the local hardware store and just taking my time.  Thus, while i would not say that installing this is easy for an inexperienced person,  I am saying that it is possible to do on your own.  In contrast to some other reviews, the installation guide was very good, readable, and thorough.\nOne of the reasons we liked this and probably one of the reasons it is cheaper is that it does not have the heating phase to quickly dry the dishes when the cycle is over.  We actually found this to be a negative aspect of the GE because, well, really hot stuff is somewhat scary.  We turned that feature off on the GE and the dishes were always dry when we finally took them out of the washer.\n\nNow to the interesting part.  In comparing the SPT  to our old model of GE (which looks remarkably like the current model of the 18 inch GE),  there are differences in the front panel and the interior  BUT, having installed, fixed, and ripped out the GE,  it looks an awful lot like, to my somewhat experienced eyes,  the guts of the GE machine (motor, pump, wiring, etc) are exactly the same as the SPT.  I would actually bet money that, whoever makes the current $899 GE  also makes the innards of the $300 SPT.  There are some differences - most notably the heating phase - but not that many differences.\nThe washer is working fine, it comes in at 55 decibels,  it takes a bit longer to cycle than the GE (the last fifteen minutes of the timer truly don't seem to do anything other than let the dishes dry of their own accord so subtract 15 minutes off the estimated times to get the actual wash time)\nGreat little machine.  I expect it to last 10 years and then I'll go buy another one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3294, "id": 466780, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 410, "len_tokens": 513, "text": "..with this washer ! I've had the machine for about 2 months, now, and I would never own another. It's so quiet, I have to use the musical feature, to know, when it's done, and that's just sitting it in the laundry closet, without even seeing, if it was leveled. I read a lot of reviews and I'm glad I did not listen to most of them.\n1. It uses plenty of water, you want your clothes washed, not sloshed around in dirty water. I think people think it's not enough, cause they are used to their laundry getting swooshed in a \"bucket\" of water, in top loaders.\n2. I have had no problems at all, with smells or wearing of clothes, my whites come out snow white, not grey like some say.\n3. To the ones that complain, that you have to leave the door open on this model, after use, newsflash, that's ALL front loaders, that's just the way it is.\nI'm European and moved to the states 16 years, ago, I always hated the top loaders, that were popular, here and was glad, when mine finally broke, so I could get a front loader, again, which is what we use over seas. ( always have)\nWhen I fist got it, I washed our towels and then got one from the linen closet, that had been cleaned with my old washer a few days back, had my husband sniff them both and he said the \"old\" towel smelled dirty compared to the \"new\" towel.\nLaundry even feels cleaner, coming out of the wash, also the drying time is cut in half, cause the spin cycle in this gets stuff nearly dry.\nI even wash our King sized comforters and the huge papasan pillow in this washer, never had any problems with the perfect balance or it not spinning, correctly.\nI have no complaints, so far at all. I love this washer and everything about it.\nThe wave touch is a bit more expensive, and you can really go with the IQ touch and save a lot of money, I got lucky and found this one at a sears outlet for 899, cause it had a scratch on it...\n\nUpdate: Just thought it was worth mentioning, that our water bill went from an average of around 50 bucks, down to 23 :)\n\nUpdate: 12/21.2012.... I still have my washer and I still love it ! No problems whatsoever, only super clean laundry.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3295, "id": 101914, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 441, "len_tokens": 528, "text": "this little spin dryer turned out to be way above & beyond anything i expected. it's small. it's light weight...about 7 or 8 pounds. & it's SO easy to use. i've been using it about a month, now, (along with the washer) & have developed a bit of knowledge & a routine with them. my very first load was a nightmare because i put too many items in the spindry & it nearly hopped & bopped right off the counter because the items didn't settle in to a level load. if it had been taped, i could have ended up on AFV. i've learned that putting just 1 item in, turning it on, waiting a few moments for it to settle level & THEN pushing the \"open lid\" button to stop the spinner to add 1 or 2 more small items works best. for bath  towels & bath sheets, 1 at a time is best. because i'm a fanatic about rinsing all the soap out of my stuff, i return my spin dried items to the washer filled with fresh cold water + maybe a tiny bit of softener, let them swish around for 3 or so minutes, drain, transfer them back to the spindryer, & repeat that process as many times as i think is necessary. i REALLY want the soap out and absolutely believe that 3 rinses with spindrying between each rinse is a MUST to get the ''old'' water & soap out. my clothes are SO close to dry when they finish spinning, i am ALWAYS amazed. & the longer they spin, the dryer they get. definitely use the full 5 minutes. i like to use the professional dryer downstairs in the dreaded laundry room to finish off the process because my clothes end up softer. i always use ''warm'' or ''gentle'' for drying &, now, it does not take more than 30 minutes to dry everything. keeping a bath towel folded in half under the spin dryer is a good idea because it makes it even quieter & stabler & absorbs the small bit of water that can escape from the lid & run down the dryer onto the counter. i'm going to remove the top & re-caulk with silicone because a few little leaks have appeared & water trickles down the outside of the container. no big deal. i like the Panda spin dryer & washer so much that i bought another set for a friend & she has reported back to me that she LOVES them both & having them has made her life incredibly easier which is also true for me. thank you, Panda!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3296, "id": 87407, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3297, "id": 88127, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3298, "id": 297023, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 481, "len_tokens": 553, "text": "This little washing machine is one of the best purchases I've ever made. I was skeptical at first, but I did go ahead and order one because I wanted to save many treks up and down my weird stairs (I live in a 3rd story apartment). I have washed clothes with this machine at least once a day since it was delivered last week, and it has been doing a wonderful job.\n\nIt is a bit labor-intensive, more so than just throwing clothes, detergent, and some coins in a machine and then sitting back and waiting until they are done. I do have to hook the water inlet hose up to a faucet, and if it doesn't hook up to a faucet well, and mine doesn't, I have to stand holding the inlet hose to my bathroom sink faucet until the water is where I want it. Once that is done, I have to push it back over into the corner so it is close to the tub for draining, and the electrical outlet so I can plug it in. But after those things are done, I have around 15 minutes to go do some other things. After the wash cycle finishes I have to make sure the drain hose is properly situated, and then I drain it into the bathtub. It drains really, really well though.\n\nRather than fill the wash side up for a rinse cycle to rinse the laundry detergent out, I have learned that I can actually rinse the clothes out while they are spinning. This the other labor-intensive part, but it is also super satisfying. So I pull the machine back over to the bathroom sink, hook the hose up to the spin dryer water inlet side, hook the drain hose up so it's draining into the toilet (drain hose is not too terribly long, so it doesn't reach my tub for this task), turn my spin dryer on, and then hold the fill hose up to the sink. I usually spin for 3 minutes gradually rinsing the clothes, and then 2 minutes just spin drying the clothes.\n\nOverall, I really love this Panda washer. The whole thing, if I am not doing other things, takes about half an hour or so. My biggest complaint: The hoses are too short--both the fill hose and the drain hose. My bathroom isn't tiny, but it's not huge so this washer does take up some much needed room that I was planning on using for a couple of shelves to store my getting-ready-in-the-morning supplies. I would rather use this in my kitchen, but I would have to figure out a whole new drainage system because the drain hose will not reach my kitchen sink. Other than that I am gladly taking on being more vigilant with my laundry, than having to go up and down my weird stairs.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3299, "id": 12821, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 459, "len_tokens": 545, "text": "I found this based on how many people mentioned this brand for quietness, even on other product reviews. Then I saw that Broan is the same company as Nutone, the brand of the 30 year old unit I was replacing, so that sealed the deal.  This unit fit perfectly into the under-cabinet space and the mounting holes lined up.  My only problems with the installation were due to the previous one, where bolts were used for the front mounts, so screws would not fit because of the hole through bottom of the cabinet, and the funky 10x3 homemade sheet metal fitting in the old duct work, which was easily replaced with a $5 fitting from Home Depot.  As others have mentioned, the 1/2 inch wood screws for mounting this looked rather inadequate, and considering my cabinetry has a 1 inch lip around the bottom, I ended up having to get much longer bolts and screws to complete the installation. Other than that, there were no issues setting up the unit itself, though some of the directions could have been a bit more clear.  For instance, it took a while to figure out how to assemble the block for the recirculation vents, Just a few words about slipping part A through the slot in part B to align and click into place would have been useful.\n\nThe fan is extremely quiet on low operation.  On high, it is strong enough to pull the flame from the burner towards the center of the stove, even with a large skillet on top.  That said, I wish the design had the fan, or at least the screens, further forward, as I could see smoke getting sucked in through the light fixtures towards the front when frying fish. Perhaps a design with a lip that trapped more of the smoke rather than spilling it up into the room would do the trick.  As it is, there is still some smoke that escapes the draw of the fan, though certainly far less than the old unit, even before its fan died.\n\nFinally, the other thing I'd like different would be separate switches for the lights.  Even on low setting, those 50 watt halogens are very bright and they run hot.  I don't need both on when just cooking on one side of the stove or leaving on as a night light.  I may just use one bulb instead of two, though given how much smoke I saw drawn through the light fixture opening, I'm concerned about greasing up the light socket if it's empty. It's too bad that LED's are not recommended for this unit. For the price, however, and ease of installation, this is a good unit and I'm pleased with it so far.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3300, "id": 398126, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 473, "len_tokens": 578, "text": "Get the PAN60SF its 3.75 cubic feet. Pretty decent size for this being a 110v model. Clothes do take longer to dry being its half the power of a standard 220v dryer. But a longer dry time sure beats going to a laundromat or my building's gross laundry facility down in a dungeness setting in the basement. Yuuck! This dryer is perfect if you live in an apartment with no special venting or electric. Just a standard 110 outlet. I plugged my dryer into an outlet that doesnt have too many other appliances or tvs connected to the same circut. My PAN60SF arrived in a plain box over the original which made my delivery discreet. Which I appreciate alot. Thank you amazon\nIn my opinion this dryer goes best with the Danby DWM17WDB  1.7 cubic foot portable washing maching. I prefer this washer over any other portable washer because it replicates the  old school agitator found in the middle of the washer which moves and thoroughly washes the clothes. This technology has been around for decades and still is very effective. The new pulsator washers which basically is disk that swishes arround clothes often tangles everything up and doesn't clean very well. Im pleased  that Danby still offers this old type of machine with modern controls.\nBoth appliances are reasonably priced. Compared to big brands costing nearly double the price. I am very pleased that I took a risk and purchased 2 wonderful appliances. I just received my dryer and im putting it to work. So far so good about an hour for 4 tanks 4 tshirts bunch of socks and boxers 1 hooded sweat shirt. I have been using the Danby washer for over a year and still runs strong. I am just an average person on a moderate income. expressing my opinion about these appliances. I would recommend these products. Danby and Panda very pleased over here. No more walking in the rain and cold outside to the laundry room. I myself used these reviews to make my decision on my appliance purchases. Check out the Danby washer too. I snapped some pics to show what im talking about when I mentioned I like the fact this machine uses an agitator to wash. Which makes all the different in clean clothes.\nI just wanted to add to my review. Being Pandas controls are on the bottom which is perfect if mount on a wall or have a stand. But i don't have dryer stand kind of money so i improvised.  Go to ikea and purchase the \"Lack\" side table it costs $9.99 and raises the dryer off the floor enough to comfortably get clothes out dryer and reach controls with out crawling on the floor. Its super easy to put together i did mine in 10 mins. Check out the photo.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3301, "id": 445236, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 449, "len_tokens": 527, "text": "I like this little unit so far. I've done a lot of loads in the past week that I've had it and so far so good. I'll update it again if anything changes.\n\nA few things others haven't mentioned that I learned from experience or saw on some YouTube videos that I found to be helpful:\n1) Don't fill the wash tub more than about half way up with water and that should cover the clothes with water, otherwise your load is too big. This is for two reasons. First, too much water and it will splash out the top seams which are not sealed. Second, the load will be too heavy and the agitator will have trouble moving the clothes. For example, three bath towels is the max (but I spin each separately!)\n2) You can do a load of whites! I wasn't sure about this because I wasn't 100% sure how it all worked at first. For the whites I would fill the tube with water first, add your detergent and bleach first, start your timer and then add your clothes.\n3) I still don't get the point of the rinse port on the spin side. I tried it before spinning. Makes no sense. I tried it while spinning, bad idea. So I drain the wash tub squeeze the clothes out and add fresh water to run a rinse cycle with some fabric softener.\n4) Most things only need to be set for 2 minutes on spin. I spin heavy duty things like towels or sheets for longer, especially if they are going in my compact dryer. Delicates or fabrics that will stretch I do for only a minute.\n\nEdit: two years (almost exactly) to the day and the pump on the wash tub broke - as did the middle knob to turn the pump on. However, I still think this was 100% worth the money for lasting that long. After taxes I paid $172 so for a little more than $7 a month I had laundry in my big bathroom. I have a 5 year old who takes baths so I hooked the hose to the shower head and used that to fill, easy peasy.\n\nWashing got easier over time. I filled the tub higher, spun everything on 5 mins and dried in my portable dryer on the patio.\n\nThis time Im looking at the automatic portable so I don't have to babysit loads so much between fill to wash, fill to rinse, change to spin, etc. I think the price difference will be worth it (I hope.).\n\nAnyway, for me, decent little machine totally worth the investment even tho it only lasted two years.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3302, "id": 88167, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3303, "id": 100362, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 478, "len_tokens": 580, "text": "Before I begin, let me just say that its a 60 mile round trip to visit the laundry mat, at a cost of $40 each time (including gas to make the trip. So I was desperate when I ordered my Wonderwash, even though I have to collect rain water or haul it in to wash clothes. Okay, here goes; Few products have such varying reviews as this one. You have to conform to the machine, not the other way around. There are no written assembly instructions, just a few drawings at the bottom of the paper that comes with it. However, its not at all complicated to figure out and assembles in 5 minutes. Use steaming hot water but not boiling hot. Add water first, then detergent, then clothes, in that order! There is a learning curve to the cranking speed and it varies from load to load. If you crank too slow, it won't agitate the clothes properly. If you crank too fast, it won't agitate the clothes at all. Vary your cranking speed until you hear and feel that distinctive \"plop\" with each rotation, then continue for 2 minutes. Longer cranking time does NOT get the clothes any more clean. Its's better to wash the clothes twice at 2 minutes each than to crank the washer for 4 minutes. I have only done full loads. I fill the unit to the half way mark, then add 1-2 tablespoons of detergent, then add 5 lbs of clothes (yes I do weigh the dirty clothes before putting them in the washer). And 4.8 to 5.0 lbs is a full load, you can fit more but they won't get as clean. After washing, I attach the drain spout first, then remove the lid to let it drain faster. After clothes are removed and wrung out by hand, I rinse the washer with a cup of water before filling half way with new rinse water and adding clothes. Only 1 minute of cranking is necessary to rinse. Then drain as before, wring out the clothes and hang on the line to dry. The instructions say 1.5 gallon of water to wash a full load, I just fill it to the center mark which is just about 2 gallons, use the same amount of water to rinse. Five lbs of clothes is more than you might think. After washing and wringing them out, they will fill a metal dishpan level to the top. You can wash 2 pair of jeans no problem. One last bit of advice here, this thing is made of plastic, so you have to treat it fairly easy. The tub itself is pretty strong but the frame and crank handle won't take much abuse. I may even build my own base out of plywood to strengthen this thing up some because the base is really flimsy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3304, "id": 466456, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 466, "len_tokens": 562, "text": "I've been using Jon-e handwarmers for over 15 years. The handwarmer never fails to do it's job either, and I normally get about 16 hours out of each fill-up.\n\nHere's how it works: You take the removable main (flameless) wick top off of the handwarmer and fill the unit with fluid. Do not overfill! Place the flameless wick back on warmer and let it sit for a few minutes so that the fluid distributes itself evenly. Make sure there is no fluid on the outside of the warmer, if there is, simply wipe it off thoroughly. Light the \"lighting wick\" of the warmer, which is the small wick at the base of the flameless wick. Allow this wick to burn for a minute or two so that the flameless wick gets a chance to start glowing. Once the flameless wick is glowing, extinguish the lighting wick and place the top back on the warmer. Let the warmer sit upright for a few minutes to warm up before placing it in the flannel pouch. Now you are ready to keep those hands toasty warm.\n\nIt sounds like a lot of steps to use, but really it isn't. It's easy and simple, and actually takes less time to get going than the 20-30 minutes it takes for a chemical-pouch warmer to reach full operating temperature.\n\nYou have to remember that this warmer uses a glowing wick to burn fuel to create warmth, so you have to let it breathe every so often to keep it burning. This requires oxygen to keep it going, so if the warmer starts losing too much warmth, which normally will happen when it's kept in your pocket for a while, simply take the warmer out of your pocket, slide the top out of the felt pouch and set it upright in the open air for 5 or 10 minutes. This will allow the warmer to get more oxygen and start burning good again. Then all you do is pull the flannel pouch back over it and it's good to go for quite a while longer.\n\nAs for the odor it produces, it is no stronger nor any different from that of a Zippo lighter. If you overfill it and it leaks fluid then the smell will be stronger, but if used properly and not overfilled, the odor is not bad at all, and is easy to get used to. I find this type of warmer much more comforting to use than the little plastic chemical packs, because with these you can grab them tight with hands to get warm quick, without fear of them breaking, bursting, or the chemical contents leaking out all over the place. The metal housing is very sturdy and the flannel pouch is nice and soft to the touch.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3305, "id": 159870, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 428, "len_tokens": 552, "text": "Two years after purchasing Bosch's \"stainless\" steel \"rust-free\" dishwasher with a \"lifetime warranty\" against rust, we discovered... rust. It was in a very specific area, where the metal filter attaches to the interior tub. We called Bosch and were told that it was our fault, that it was our water, our dishwasher soap, our flatware--anything but the dishwasher. We persisted, explaining that we use a water softener and a reverse-osmosis system and that our water is no worse, and probably a bit better, than average. Furthermore, if it was merely our water, then we would expect to see rust everywhere. As for our dishwasher soap--well--it comes from Costco, and I'm sure they'd take exception to Bosch's claim that it promotes rust. We offered our own theory, which is that the metal used in the filter is dissimilar to the metal in the tub, resulting in a galvanic reaction and corrosion to the metals. Basically, the two different metals, pressed together in an aqueous environment, results in a battery. But for Bosch to admit this would be to admit a design flaw--the sort of admission that leads to a class-action lawsuit. We already know Bosch uses a variety of \"stainless\" metals. For example, the metal used on the door is a very inferior grade of stainless steel that is easily streaked and spotted. And the way you can tell is to use a magnet. If the magnet sticks then it's ferrous metal and more prone to staining.\n\nThis section is taken right out of the manual: \"Stainless Steel TallTub: A rust-free, hygienic interior surface with a lifetime warranty.\" Bosch routinely advertises a \"lifetime rust-free warranty\". The sales reps will tell you that the unit comes with a lifetime rust-free warranty.\n\nYet Bosch claims they don't actually guarantee the tub to be rust-free; they only warrant against \"rust-through\", meaning you will have to live with the rust until it eats a hole through the metal--until water starts pouring into some part of the dishwasher where it doesn't belong (hopefully not endangering you, your family, or your home, in the process). When you consider that Bosch basically expects you to use their rusting appliance until there's a catastrophic failure, you realize that the advertisements, selling points, and sales pitches regarding \"rust-free\" and \"lifetime warranty\" are all fraudulent.\n\nBosch offered no remedies and suggested that the rust can be removed (on our dime, of course). The problem is that even if we use a rust-removing product, the rust will return in time, because the source of the rust--a design flaw--remains.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3306, "id": 361309, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 433, "len_tokens": 507, "text": "I don't normally write a lot of reviews on products unless I feel that they are outstanding in some way. I have been using this product for a couple of weeks now and the more I use it, the happier I become.\nI just recently discovered silicone lids on Amazon. All I could say after receiving them was, \"WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN ALL MY LIFE?\" LOL.\nI purchased a set of round ones to fit on my pyrex dishes and round pots/pans and then I purchased this rectangular lid from CMS Trade Group for my 13x9\"  bakeware all at the same time. The silicone lids are all that they are cracked up to be. Because they are silicone and can withstand high temperatures, you can use them in the oven, on top of your pots and pans while cooking, and just put them on top of your dishes when you have left-overs and put them in the fridge!. The pictures they have on the description, where it seals so well that you can actually lift the dish up by the silicone lid is actually true. It won't withstand you holding it like that for a great length of time or anything, but it gives you the point that if you are using it to put away some left-overs, you are getting a good seal so your food doesn't dry out!!\nSomething that sets this particular lid apart from some of the rest on Amazon is #1..the price!! This product was definitely the most reasonably priced one on Amazon!! and  #2,  I really liked that it has the ability to be hung on a hook (which some of the silicone lids DO NOT. After receiving my lids, that particular feature became very important to me (Esp when you see my pictures!)\nIn my kitchen, I have one large cabinet that was just for pots and pans with their lids. I have another large cabinet that was for my Pyrex dishes and their lids. For my pots and pans, the lids for those took up half my drawer space. Since receiving my silicone lids, I have taken all of those lids out to the garage and just have the silicone hanging on a hook in the cabinet. IT HAS COMPLETELY GIVEN ME SO MUCH MORE SPACE IT IS UNBELIEVABLE!! The silicone lids are SO versatile because not only will they fit and seal on a 9x13\" rectangular pan, but also smaller. I have also used it to seal a Pyrex dish that was 8x12\".I recommended this product to all my friends and family.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3307, "id": 518736, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 472, "len_tokens": 584, "text": "After a significant amount of research and toiling over the seemingly excessive prices for dryers (it seems like they've doubled in the last 10 years), I landed on this model, primarily due to a high Consumer Reports rating, an extremely big discount from Best Buy, and because it looks very similar to a Kenmore Elite I replaced. In fact, it fits the Kenmore base perfectly and, at a glance, is a very close match to my old washer that it sits next to. I have had it for 3 months now, and I'm at a point where I can say I definitely don't like it.\n\nThere are several significant irritants with this dryer. First, it balls-up almost all large items like no other dryer I have ever used. Sheets, towels, and even jeans are ALWAYS wound in a tight mess of a knot, along with everything else that gets caught in the wrath. This happens within a few minutes into the cycle. In particular, drying sheets requires at least 3 complete removals and unwindings during the 1+ hour of drying time. If you forget to do this, you'll easily triple the dry time, having to unravel and restart the load--they'll be wound so tight that nothing will dry. I don't know if it is the speed of the drum, the odd paddles (they're shaped like none other I've seen before), or what.\n\nSecond, it developed an annoying rattle inside, toward the back, after a few months of use. I read another review that mentioned a \"scraping\" noise, which may be the same thing I'm experiencing. It sounds more like a rattle, in my opinion--probably some metal object that has become loose inside. This isn't a huge deal for me, as my laundry room is in the basement, but it is extremely annoying.\n\nThose aside, there are a few other minor annoyances, like when checking clothes mid-cycle (or unraveling, per my earlier comment), there is a chime to indicate that the door is open, just like on a car when you leave the keys in the ignition. This is a completely unnecessary and annoying feature. Also, the unit has to be turned off and on between loads. It takes several seconds to turn on (very much like a Samsung TV, in fact). Why can't I make my selections and push \"start\" like every other dryer I've ever owned? I mentioned the dry time for sheets--it seems long, but judging from my last dryer, it takes about the same length of time.\n\nThe plusses? It looks nice and has very good capacity for the size. It does dry thoroughly if you use the \"more dry\" setting and don't overload it. However, the benefits do not outweigh the problems. In hindsight, I would have gladly paid another $200 for a dryer without these issues.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3308, "id": 88007, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3309, "id": 191, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 440, "len_tokens": 521, "text": "My laundry room gets cold, it literally has no insulation. We even had frost on the linoleum a couple times. It draws a lot of hot air into it from the rest of the house so I've taken to putting a towel under the door to stop the cold air blasting through. Also, the air is very dry as is normal in winter.\n\nThis dryer heat diverter made a huge difference almost immediately. I say \"almost\" because i installed it backwords first (lol). The first load I tried to dry with it took 2 and 1/2 cycles to dry before i figured it out. It heated up the room incredibly fast once I reinstalled it correctly. I am able to keep the door open and have all that heat and humidity roll in through the kitchen and living room. It's great!!!\n\nIt's not without its flaws, though.\n\n1. It feels pretty flimsy. I think they could have molded this thing into one solid piece. The 2 zip ties that it comes with WILL hold it together well if you can get them tight enough. Also, the zip-ties have little release tabs so you can reuse them if you need to take the thing apart for anything. You could also just get some 4\" hose clamps if you wanted to spend the extra cash.\n\n2. The screen that comes on the little round part is a little too wide and some dust does blow out. THIS IS YOUR CHANCE TO BE CREATIVE! I took a used dryer sheet, popped off the screen cap, placed the used dryer sheet behind it, and put the screen cap back on the diverter. It fits a little more tight this way, too. I see in other reviews the some people used pantyhose, but the dryer sheet gives off a nice smell so I went with that.\n\n3. There is no mount to hang this thing or attach it to the wall behind the dryer. I ended up just setting it on top of the control panel for my dryer and against the wall. The diverter kind of aims up over my head if I were standing in front of the dryer.\n\nFor those 3 reasons, I can only give this 4 stars and that ONLY because it would be made better. The idea is great, execution... Could be improved.\n\nIn conclusion, If you are looking to potentially save some money, why not get one of these things? I had enough stuff in my cart for free shipping so for around $6, it seemed like an idea I couldn't pass on. I'm glad i didn't!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3310, "id": 567214, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 447, "len_tokens": 534, "text": "I bought this so I wouldn't have to deal with the hassle of cutting and splicing wires.  This was supposedly compatible with my stove model, so I paid extra for the snap supply connector.  But be advised as shown in my photos: The snap assembly has an extra requirement for compatibility as shown on the tag reading, \"WARNING: Use only with the EATON 4100 Series Automatic Valves,\" and the plastic pin guards/guides don't fit with my connector. The ones on this new one are shaped to prevent snapping into the wrong supply assembly--see how they're both flat on one side? My oven has one round pin guard and one flat.  Don't know if this means I *also* shouldn't simply cut and splice this, but I'll never know because the new igniter flipped off the table while I was finagling the pin guard into the light in the kitchen to try to photograph this so you can actually see it.  The igniter bar shattered on the floor (also pictured) because my hand came down on the very stiff wires and flipped it right over as I tried to focus on the pins.\n\nExtra joke on me: I had bought ceramic nuts also, in case the assembly didn't work, because I couldn't tell from the photo or any details in the product description that this would *really* fit in the first place.  But guess what? There are ceramic wire nuts included with this, even though they aren't in the photo and aren't mentioned. The cynic in me is pretty sure both the manufacturer and the seller know darn well you're almost certainly going to have to cut off the snap assembly anyway, and that extra inclusion of the photo, and/or mention of the ceramic nuts being included, might tip you off to that high probability.\n\nSo, for those of you who bought this more expensive igniter for that snap assembly, like me?  Just drive to a hardware store and buy one, or get same-day Amazon shipping on the cheaper version that is up front about requiring a splice and shows the required, included ceramic nuts in the product photo.  It's not hard to make that extra effort to splice.\n\nThough this was frustrating and cash down the drain for me yesterday, it's worth it if this helps any of you before you make the same mistakes I did....not just buying this bum deal, but also breaking it, because I just haaaad to stop to photograph it so you can see pictures in addition to comments.  Pictures are worth way more than my words here, and this should have included better photos and complete information in the first place.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3311, "id": 52821, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 470, "len_tokens": 529, "text": "This AcuRite 01080 Pro is one of the better designs in humidity monitors that are available on the market right now IMO.\nIt not only has a great set of features but it is also easy to learn to use. It also looks nice and I don't mind it being displayed in the house.\n\nWhen it comes to deciding where you want to place it you have options. You can magnetically attach the included base for tabletop use, hang it on a wall using the nail hole in the back or magnetically attach it to your refrigerator or similar metal object. It is nice to have options and they have been tastefully implemented into the design. I do appreciate the easy to attach base as well as the magnetic capabilities.\n\nThe round puck style is both functional and aesthetically unobtrusive. It measures approximately 3.75\" in diameter and I find that to be just the right size for the information that needs to be displayed on its screen to be both legible and decipherable. All the information needed is right on the display. There are no submenus nor dual purpose lines of text. What you see is what there is.\n\nThe simplicity of the design is another reason I find this one to be much more likable than other designs. There are only 4 buttons and a switch on the back of the unit. The switch is for selecting between F or C. The UP and DOWN arrow buttons are for setting the alarm high and low points as well as calibration. The ALARM button cycles it on or off. The RECORDS button cycles thru previous readings. You do need to hold the unit in your hand to be able to press the buttons as they are on the rear of the unit. That is why I prefer the base or to magnetically mount it as it allows for easy manipulation of the buttons.\n\nThis is a monitor that you will need to hold in your hand and manipulate to use it fully.\n\nIt requires 2 AAA batteries that are not included.\n\nI find it to be well constructed and made from quality components.\n\nThe LCD screen is highly visible. You can see it completely from side to side. It is only from an up and down angle that it begins to fade and eventually not be visible. I find the screen to be easily read even in lower light conditions. The background behind the LCD screen is reflective and even just a little bit of light in the room will allow you to read it. This is one of the best displays on a small humidity monitor that I have seen.\n\nI would recommend this monitor as you get a lot for the inexpensive price. It is a quality unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3312, "id": 467203, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 435, "len_tokens": 567, "text": "On Norcold model N300 fridge, the thermocouple wouldn't keep the pilot lit. First suspect, as always, was the thermocouple. Looked at the thermocouple through the back of the unit and noticed it was not correctly threaded into the interrupter. The threaded inlet on the interruptor wasn't deep enough to fully engage the threads of the thermocouple fitting. I purchased the new thermocouple and attempted to install and wound up with same problem - fitting wouldn't thread properly into the interrupter. I could only just barely catch the first thread of the thermocouple fitting with the threads in the interrupter. Fitting was inserted as far as it would go down into the interrupter inlet. Needless to say, problem not solved by new thermocouple. Began to suspect someone had used the wrong interrupter at install or previous repair time (I bought the trailer used). OK. More research. Ahhhh...apparently there were several fridges manufactured by Norcold using connectors made of material with with too high resistance factor to be able efficiently carry the few milliamperes generated by the thermocouple through the valve control system. To fix this Norcold created a replacement wiring harness that consists of just two wires (red and blue) and their connectors.\n\nFor details see Norcold Service Bulletin N300 LP Mode Troubleshooting TNCSTP 081804\nHere: http://comet.ak.planet.gen.nz/~matelec/PDF/n300_lp_bulletin_081804.pdf\n\nI ordered these wires with their connectors along with a new interruptor (Norcold Inc. Refrigerators 621737 Thermocouple Interrupter) and it all installed easily, the previously purchased thermocouple threaded right into the new interrupter, and the fridge now works fine. By the way - depending on your particular circumstances, you may not have to take the whole fridge out of the cabinet to replace the wires. I was able to get my arms past the cooling fins on the backside and work it from the outside access on the trailer. It helped me to wear long sleeves as I pushed my arms up and over the cooling fins - the corners were scratchy. Be careful when you pull off the connector going to the flame meter when you replace the interrupter, that wire is tiny gauge and you don't want to give the connector too hard of a pull and end up yanking the wire out of the meter when it finally lets go. I think I came close on mine,\n\nIn the end I can't know if it was the thermocouple or the interrupter or the wires and connectors, but replacing all three components has, so far, solved the problem. We took it on a three day jaunt right after installation and it worked fine the whole time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3313, "id": 51243, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 477, "len_tokens": 597, "text": "In 2002, I bought a Whirlpool Duet washer (GHW9200LQ) and dryer (GEW9200LQ0) set after return from overseas assignment in Germany.  They stayed in Texas for 11 years during my tours in Virginia, Iraq, Kuwait, Japan and Kansas. We moved into our forever home Jan 2015, and because we now also have a freezer and our old side-by-side in the laundry room, I researched stacking to make space for everything.\nI was concerned because of the age of my set, that any kits I would find would be for much newer models.  Was able to find the kit for the dryer, but the product description was silent about the type of washer it would work with.  But hey, I had a 50/50 chance.\nOrdered the kit, it arrived in 2 days as promised.  Instructions were straight forward.  We already had the dryer on top of the washer.  We simply tilted it back, my husband held on to it, I installed the glue-on strips, then slid the dryer back about an inch past the washer, installed the plastic clips, then the steel brackets.  Perfect fit!  Key: The dryer cannot sit on top of the washer aligned at the back.  It has to be offset by an inch otherwise the brackets will not fit properly, nor hold the dryer in place.  This is on purpose, so access to the detergent/bleach/softener drawer is not hindered.  Also, if you do not have it offset, or don't have it offset enough, the brackets will not fit properly.  After I initially installed the brackets, I nudged the dryer back a hair to ensure the brackets were seated snugly, then tightened the screws completely.\n\nI am running my first load now.  Standing in front of the stack during the spin cycle.  Since the washer is no longer on the pedestal, it makes so much less noise during the spin.  The dryer shifted about 1/16th of an inch at the right front corner.  I will just have to remember to check after each load and nudge it to back into position.  Small price to pay for the extra space.\n\nSo now I had two pedestals taking up space...i stacked them on top of each other and we put our upright freezer on top of them.  I still have the drawer storage space and now no longer have to bend over to get to the bottom shelves in the freezer.\nWe will close off the outside vent pipe for the dryer and purchase an indoor vent-less dryer kit.  The climate in Southwest Texas is very dry and could do with some moisture and in the winter it will generate some extra heat as the laundry room is pretty far from the furnace.\nI took some photos, but have to post them from my tablet or laptop as it does not give me the option from my cell.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3314, "id": 347489, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 445, "len_tokens": 507, "text": "*I received this free in exchange for an unbiased honest review.\n\nMakes ice cubes in six minutes\nThis is the newest ice maker from Ivation, the leader in portable ice makers.  I don't run out of ice cubes ever since I got this.  I just pour some water into the container and turn it on and wait six minutes, and have a new batch of ice cubes, perfectly frozen and shaped.\nThere are several things I love about this ice maker, starting with its small compact size.  My counter space is at a premium in my kitchen but this can sit out on the counter and look cute without taking up much room.  It is also reasonably lightweight at 24 pounds.\nI usually just make a new batch of ice with this every day but when I have guests coming I let this run for twenty four hours so that I have twenty six pounds of ice which I put into my own large plastic bags to store in the freezer to make sure I don't run out, or sometimes I make double that amount to have on hand in case I have a party.\nThis is so simple I didn't even need to read the instructions before I first used it.  I poured water into the bucket and turned it on.  The ice cubes came out perfectly and I could see them being made through the window in the top of the lid.  What amazed me was that they didn't stick together.  Each one was perfectly formed and separate from the rest.\nWhen I left some ice in the machine, it melted back into the reservoir and then was turned back into ice the next day when I made more ice.  There is a drain on the bottom to let out water that is unused or the machine can be tilted to pour it out\nEven though this is so compact and easy to use, it has alerts to let you know when the water level is too low, and also lets you know when the ice bucket is full.  It shut itself off when it was  finished making a bucket of ice.\nPros:\nLED buttons to turn it on and off\nAlerts for when it needs water and when it is finished making ice\nMakes 26.5 pounds of ice in 24 hours\nOnly about 14 X 13 X 10 inches\nSee through window to watch the ice being made\nComes with a removable water tank, ice scoop and user manual\n\nI love this ice maker and will never again run out of ice, nor will I have to buy ice at the store.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3315, "id": 405264, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 447, "len_tokens": 548, "text": "UPDATE: August 29, 2016 -- bumped my rating back up from 3-stars to 5 after Kalamera sent me a replacement control board that fixes the problem where the temp would reset to factory default (62 degrees) after a power interruption.  Changing out the board was simple and took less than 10 minutes. I haven't experienced an actual power outage with the new board, but tested it by unplugging the power cord, then plugging it back in.  When unit came back on, temp setting was the same as before, so it seems to have fixed the problem.\n\nAlso, after 4-months of use, I've found that beverages stay more evenly cold if I don't try to pack the fridge to capacity.  I've removed several of the shelves so that all of the cans stand upright, and I make sure that the interior fans in the back are not blocked.  Plus, I keep a little space between each can to help with the cold air circulation.  I've given up some capacity (60 beers will have to do!), but all of this has helped performance.\n\nUPDATE: June 4, 2016 -- took off 2-stars after discovering that after a power outage, the thermostat resets to its default setting, which is 62 degrees.  We had a very brief power interruption (just a second or 2) overnight and discovered later the next evening when we were having a party that everything in the fridge had become warm.  I contacted Kalamera support and confirmed that this is normal, i.e., the way it was engineered.\n\nWe received this item a week ago but just got it up and running. So far so good. Arrived well-packaged and protected, so no issues with damage. Installation was a little tricky because of the close tolerances of our space.  The power cord plug is straight and needed about 3\" of clearance from the back wall to allow for the part of the plug that extended from the wall outlet + the space needed to allow for the cord to make a bend.  I think they should make this with a flat, offset plug to allow for tight installations. The compressor itself is very quiet but we're getting some minor rattling noise - probably vibration between the cans and metal shelving.  The temperature controls are accurate and do get the beverages cold, which is why we bought this model. Shelves can easily be removed to allow for room to stand up taller cans or bottles. The bottom shelf is shorter than the rest; we are using it to hold 16 (.5 liter) bottles of water.  This is a heavy duty machine that we expect (and hope!) will last for many years.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3316, "id": 13105, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 425, "len_tokens": 524, "text": "First off, only a four star review due to the hood coming with a couple of small dents in it.  Not enough to return, I was able to straighten them out, but it looks like they happened at the Broan factory, since the dents were only evident after the hood was removed from the shipping box.\n\nNow to the review.  This was a replacement hood for another Broan hood, that had decided to no longer illuminate.  This hood's mounting holes were in the exact same spot as the old hood, that older hood being 15 years old or so.  This meant that mounting the hood was easy as could be.\n\nI followed the directions, including shutting off the power at the breaker box.  The entire installation took less than 30 minutes, and only that long because I kept going back to the instructions believing it was too easy and I must have missed a step.  Nope, it was just that easy to install.\n\nNow I must mention that I mounted this as ductless, since I don't have a duct running to the outside, so that may have contributed to the ease of installation.  However the instruction look comprehensive enough so that you'll have all the information you need.\n\nAs far as the lights, while the instructions say a PAR20, max 50W halogen bulb is usable, I put in 2 35 watt bulbs.  The light is still extremely bright.  When I use the low setting on the lights, there is an initial flickering effect which ceases after just a very few seconds, and does not seem to be an issue.\n\nThe fan is extremely quiet, even on the high speed setting.  It seems to do the job, so no complaints there.  Installing the two carbon inserts (required for ductless use) was easy.  I bought the inserts available here on Amazon.\n\nThe hood does seem to extend out about 2 inches or so further than the old hood it replaced, but that is not a problem.  My wife likes the curved look of the thing, and is pleased with the hood.  That's the most important thing.  Personally I could not care less, but if Mama's happy, everybody's happy.\n\nAs far as the price, I found the same exact range hood for sale at a home center for $80 more.  And all of those available at my local Lowes either had open boxes or severely smashed boxes.\n\nBottom line:  Good value, good price, easy installation.  Go ahead, make the purchase and stop driving yourself crazy researching the things.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3317, "id": 458248, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 459, "len_tokens": 524, "text": "I consider this fridge a glorified hotel bar fridge. It is poorly designed, inefficient, poor quality, noisey and extremely overpriced.\nIn this day and age you would expect all fridges to be frost free, but this one is not. Being a \"semi-frost free\" fridge, ice and frost will form on the back of the fridge. A water trap/drain on the back wall takes up valuable space in this already tiny and shallow fridge. This also contributes to the inconsistant temperture inside the fridge which you can really tell with highly perishable foods -- foods in the back is more humid (often wet) and cold or frozen while the space in the front is not cold enough, you can never find a perfect temperture setting for this fridge.\n\nFor being such a small fridge you would think that the interior would be smartly and efficiently designed to maximize space, but it is obvious that no thought was put into its design. I threw away the wine rack as it took up a good chunk of interior space.\n\nOther faults of this fridge:\n- The egg tray holds only 10 eggs, not a dozen! It must be designed by an idiot.\n- The fridge is noisey and makes really weird sounds.\n- There is no separate temperture setting for the freezer.\n- There is no light in the freezer.\n- The plastic drawers are not on a track, so you could easily pull it too far and have a drawer of fruits or vegetables fall out of the fridge.\n- The ice tray is built into a shelf in the fridge and could not be replaced with an ice tray that makes proper sized ice cubes.\n- The fridge often generates an odd suction or back-pressure, so opening the door requires a lot of effort to open it sometimes to the point it will rock the fridge and the contents inside.\n- This is not a European appliance which I was led to believe. My model was made in Turkey.\n- There is only three height adjustments for the two shelves in the door, the middle one is useless (creates very little room for the lower shelf), so essentially you have no choice on positioning the shelves in the door.\n\nI would recommend any name brand fridge over Blomberg, even the popular American brands are much better built and designed for much less. I have wasted a lot of fresh food from using this fridge and will continue to do so simply because of its poor design and refrigeration. I looked up the reviews on Blomberg fridges on Consumer Reports and not surprisingly it came in last over the other brands and I experienced all of the problems that they mentioned.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3318, "id": 87447, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3319, "id": 9172, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 397, "len_tokens": 522, "text": "The only bad thing I have to say about this washer is that I wish I had bought the next size up.  You can only fit 2 pairs of adult-size jeans -OR- 2 large, heavy bath-towels and have the machine operate optimally.  I tried 3 pairs of jeans as a test, and the washing action was too impeded to clean them effectively.  However, for socks, undergarments, light blouses, light towels, etc, it's FANTASTIC.  It gets them cleaner than the agitator washers I'm used to using, especially if you use the \"Heavy\" wash cycle.  Another plus is that it's gentle enough to wash some of my \"hand-wash only\" clothing.\nI am extremely happy that I purchased it.  I live in a mobile home, and it fit easily through my doorways, hooked up flawlessly, and doesn't thrash or bounce around as it washes (which was a big concern given my uneven floors and the small size.)  For the most part, it handles my weekly needs, though I will still need to use the laundromat for large loads.  (Blankets, for example.)  For me, that's only every other month or so.\nIt came with nearly everything needed to connect it.  However, if you are hooking it up to traditional laundry-room outlets, where hot-water and cold-water are seperate lines, you will need to buy a \"Y\" adapter.  I found one easy enough at a local hardware store.  This allowed me to hook the washer up permanently, although I need to manually open the lines to get the desired water temperature.  I experimented a bit with the faucets and marked the handles so I know how far to turn them to get \"cold\", \"warm\" or \"hot\".  Also, since I don't expect to disconnect the lines anytime soon, I bought plumbing tape to use around the threads to help seal the connection.\nAs for the \"assembly,\" some people have posted that they put the convex end of the plate toward the floor (bulging side closest to the floor.)  I used to write technical manuals, and the directions on the plate seem to suggest that it be installed with the concave side facing the floor, though the wording is slightly ambiguous.  However, I installed it concave side facing the floor, and it works just fine.  I am unsure as to why they don't ship it with the plate already installed, it would prevent confusion.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3320, "id": 57924, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 494, "len_tokens": 553, "text": "Just got this in yesterday, haven't got to use the cleaning system as of yet, but it looks like it will do a bang up job. product is exactly as advertised.\n\nI live in an home built in the 40's, When they decided to put the washer and dryer in they put them in the center of the house. They put the vent in the wall at floor level put and 90ed it down and then immediately 90ed it to run half the width of the house (about 12 feet).The vent was plugged when I moved in the house, so I just put Pantie hose on the end of the hose. Last year I tried to clean it out with a homemade tool, I thought I had it clean and run the dryer through the summer (and burned up my dryer). When I hooked up my dryer this year It just pressured up. I tried and tried to clean it out with my home made equipment, but had only minimal success. I saw this tool on Amazon and grabbed it. I have used and abused this tool, I used it in ways that the instructions clearly state not to. I did do some damage to the tool (not beyond repair or usefulness). When the damage occurred I was clearly abusing the tool. I had brought out about a plastic grocery bag of trashy lint when the brush quit working. the lint had been wet and compressed to almost a cardboard consistency. I put the obstruction remover on and connected it to the drill (against manufactures instructions) I ran it until it hung up, removed it and run the brush again. I would get about three passes with the brush and start all over again. This tool removed all of the crap in that galvanised steel vent tube.\n\na few other tricks if you have a stubborn plug like mine. The instructions state that you should run in and out one rod at a time. If you try to pull this out with the drill running and without dismantling the rod you will have a twisted pretzel on your hands. This did not damage the rod though. also putting to much pressure on the rod will disfigure the rod. I did put a twist in one link of rod, however it did not slow down its performance. If you need to run the tool in and out do so without the drill, slide the tool in to the clog and run it turn the drill off and pull out by hand. This worked great for me. I also bent the obstruction remover, not beyond repair and it still took more abuse.\n\nIf you have a dryer vent that is plugged with regular old soft lint it would be no match for this tool. If used as recommended it should last for many years.\n\nI would definitely recommend this tool to any one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3321, "id": 329982, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 454, "len_tokens": 564, "text": "Okay, I'm calling these ice cubes, but they aren't really cubes. The ice is formed over rods & take the form of a cylinder with a round base & a center hole. A small cube measures about 1\" x 1\" x 1\". The 'walls of the cylinder are about 1/4\" thick. I haven't made the large size yet.\n\nVery easy to use!\nBe sure to clean it before first use.\nTo clean inside use water only, do not use any cleaning product.  I threw away the first 4 or 5 batches of ice too.  I figured I wasn't able to clean any of the tubing (if there is tubing) so decided that the first few batches of ice cleaned it for me.\n\nPour water to the MAX line which is a little hard to see so don't overfill it.  The ice maker holds a maximum of 80 oz water.  Tap water is fine.\nChoose small or large ice, press start.\n\nI chose small cubes the first time because I thought the process would be faster. It seemed to take forever to make the first group, but actually it was around 8 - 10 minutes. The first few groups of cubes were thin, but after a while everything must've gotten colder & the walls of the cubes were much thicker & the whole ice making process went a little faster.\n\nThe ice maker makes 9 cubes at a time.\nIt does not keep the ice cold. When the cubes melt, the water is used to make more.\nIt's recommended to empty old water & use fresh  every 24 hours to prevent bacteria, etc. The unit has a drain plug on the bottom.\n\nThe process isn't as quick as I thought it would be. It took about an hour to get enough cubes to turn hot tea into a glass of ice tea.  (Just remembered I threw a few of the first batches away so it might not have taken an hour if those weren't tossed)\n\nWhen the ice basket gets full, the ice maker automatically stops making ice & the 'Ice Box Full Indicator'  lights up. Many times the ice box/basket isn't full, but the ice cubes need to be moved out of the way so another group can be pushed into the basket.\n\nControl Panel Indicators:\nStart/Standby\nLarge Cube Button\nSmall Cube Button\nWater Low Indicator\nIce Box Full Indicator\n\nThe ice maker comes with a Scoop & User Manual.\n\nIt's simple to use & quick to set-up. About the size of a breadmaker, it measures approximately 9.5 \" wide x 14\" long x 13\" high.\n\nIt's working great. Our family likes it.  I'll update my review if my opinion changes.\n\nReview Sample Provided", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3322, "id": 45418, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 398, "len_tokens": 530, "text": "The product arrived timely - actually before I expected it. That's a PLUS. As shared in previous reveiws, I was expecting the first few batches of ice to have a plastic taste but that diminished after 5-6 batches. The large ice cubes are perfect size for drinks and I use about 2 Britta pitcher fills for 2 gallon bags of ice to store in the freezer. This unit is NOT a freezer, as indicated in previous posts. The only downside to this machine is when the water is filling for the next freeze, the unit makes a screeching noise which lasts for 2-3 minutes then stops. I banged it on the side and it stopped temporarily but that's not the solution! LOL It's tolerable but annoying since I work from home and the ice maker is within earshot. This unit looks good on my cabinet and is about the size I expected even though dimensions aren't available on Amazon. You have to look it up elsewhere. It's about 12\" wide, 14\" deep and 14\" tall. It weighs in around 20 lbs or so. Except for the screeching noise, I would highly recommend this unit.\n*UPDATE* It's now March 4th,2011, and the little ice maker is truckin' along. I am very happy with my purchase. The screeching is not as loud - maybe with time it will stop? ~SMILE~\n*UPDATE* July 1,2011. Last week, it made one LOUD pathetic SQUAWK, but kept working and the screeching has stopped! YAY! Makes you scratch your head and go \"hmmmmm\". I make ice about once a week and store in gallon baggies for the week - quite convenient. So far, so good.\n*****I updated from a 4 to a 5 star after the screech stopped.\n*UPDATE* Well, it's December 23, 2012 and we are still plugging along! The screeching never returned and this product continues to perform very well. It if went \"belly-up\" tomorrow, I would buy another of the same brand as I give it a pretty good workout on a regular basis and am pleased that it's still working.\n*UPDATE* November 22, 2014. Unfortunately, my unit went \"belly up\" in July, so I purchased another on sale @ local retailer, deciding to go less expensive and see if this one lasts as long. I was very happy while this one was working, and still highly recommend this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3323, "id": 88279, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3324, "id": 88543, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3325, "id": 379210, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 451, "len_tokens": 522, "text": "Our over the range Microwave died and we decided to replace with a powerful range hood as we do a lot of stir fry cooking and large amount of smoke is generated.  Having read the reviews both positive and negative here, I was in 2 minds to buy this product.  After thinking it over for a long time, I finally made the purchase.  The price was right and the product was promptly shipped.  I inspected the box soon as it arrived and I did not see any significant damage to the box.  I proceeded to open the box carefully.  As I started taking the parts out, I noticed that the bag of fasteners was open and all the screws were scattered at the bottom.  There are lots of screws provided with this range hood and you end up with lots of extras.  I assume it is for different ways to mount this product.  I went to Home Depot to look for the metal clamp to secure the flexible duct which comes with the unit to the range hood outlet.  The clamps are not provided with the unit.  Alternatively you could use 3M Metal tape to secure them. The outlet is 8\" which at Home Depot I was told was unusual for homes and I was not able to find the clamps.  I first plugged the range hood in and ran it at different settings to make sure there was no issue.  It ran fine at all the settings and so I proceeded with the installation.  I drew a template using cardboard so I could mark the corresponding mounting locations on the bottom of my cabinet and pre-drilled all the screw mounting holes.  The 30\" range hood is heavy.  Installation is definitely a 2 person or 3 person job though depending on the mounting location and how much space you get around it to get a good hold.  You may also need to employ a cabinet lift jack or a vehicle floor jack.  We had to go through and try different ways to get it in there but finally we have been able to mount it.  Some of the videos on Youtube will help.  The manual which comes with the unit is woefully inadequate.  It needs clearer pictures and a complete rewrite.  The access to the screw holes is tricky.  Also if space permits, it would be best to put the screws in first and then lining up the screw head with the large holes, lift the hood in and slide it back in place and then tighten the screws.  If your home is not setup to vent outside and you are not too handy, you may need to use professional help.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3326, "id": 68545, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 457, "len_tokens": 572, "text": "When looking to replace my washing machine, I started out looking at the traditional top loaders.  The cheap ones were around $300 and more standard quality ones around $400, and I saw some that were another $100 or more beyond that.  When the salesman asked me about front load washers, I didn't give it much thought because they tend to be more pricey and out of my range.  In fact, the first one he showed me was about $700.  When I asked him what the cheaper ones cost, he showed me the Frigidaire FTF2140FS for $550, and seeing as they had $100 off deal, it was only slightly more than the standard top loader.  So I took him up on the deal, ultimately paying $475 after tax, and so far I'm very happy with its performance.\n\nI usually have two or three people who rent rooms in my house.  The old washer took 40 gallons of water per load.  The Frigidaire takes just 15 gallons!  So right off the bat I'm going to be saving a lot on my water bill, as well as a few bucks on electricity as this washer takes less of that to operate, too.\n\nThe controls are pretty simple to figure out.  Ten cycles, four temperature settings, you can set how fast you want the basket to spin, and there's a few extra options, too.  Shut the door, hit start, and let it go.  Just be sure to remember that you must use HE (High Efficiency) detergent.\n\nThe wash is very quiet and the spin dry sucks the water right out of the clothes.  I can dry my stuff in half the time!\n\nI did encounter one problem twice.  When washing my bed sheets and blankets, I heard a beeping noise.  The washer was stopped and I thought it was done, but it turns out my sheets were still soaked.  I looked at the manual and apparently if the load in the washer basket becomes uneven, it won't spin (that's why it was beeping).  So I just pushed the blankets a few times, shut the door, and on the cycle dial there's an option for Final Spin, which is just that, the final spin dry.  So I selected that, hit start, and it worked both times.  I haven't had that problem with any other load of laundry before or after that.\n\nThis was my first foray into the world of front load washers and so far I'm very pleased with the results!  It's quiet, efficient, my clothes are clean and smell fresh, and most important of all to me, it isn't tearing my clothes like my old washer was.  And for the price I got it at, it's a great value!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3327, "id": 473903, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 418, "len_tokens": 536, "text": "I've only had this unit (WRT359SFYW) for a few days, so I can't comment with much experience on how it works in day-to-day use.  So far it's keeping my frozen stuff frozen and my cold stuff cold, so two stars for that.  And it's not expensive.\n\nThe biggest drawback is that this fridge is quite loud.  I know that excessive noise is a common complaint with modern refrigerators, and I have no way to directly compare the noise from this model from others.  But this model is noticeably louder than the cheap 2002 Frigidaire it replaced, which was not exactly quiet in it's own right.  With my open floorplan house (kitchen/dining area open to the living room) the noise from this fridge is very noticeable in the living room, 30 feet away.  In the dining area, the noise dominates the room.  The manufacturers have got to figure out ways to muffle these things.  I'd return it in a second if I had a reliable way to find a quiet model, but I'm afraid they will just tell me \"they're all like that\".\n\nIn the refrigeration section, the shelves are too close together to hold tall items, even at maximum spacing.  This is also a common issue with many top freezer refrigerators I look at--the whole refrigeration section is just too short in height.  It would be better if this fridge was taller or wider and was not as deep, as space way in the back is hard to use, but more height is always welcome.  This unit is so deep it doesn't fit too well in the standard-size fridge bay in my home.\n\nI'll also note that many models in this price range include an icemaker as standard, where this one does not.  Also, this model does not have separate temperature controls for the freezer section and the refrigeration section.  And a one-year warranty?  These are supposed to be \"durable goods\".  It seems like many manufacturers have cut production cost and quality on refrigerators to the absolute bare minimum.\n\nEdit/Update: I've had this unit for three months now.  When it was delivered, it was not quite centered in my kitchen's refrigerator nook, but I didn't care enough to try to reposition it until now.  Tonight I gently pulled the unit out and moved it back so it would be centered.  As I'm rolling it back into position I hear a \"snap\" and the fridge lurches to one side.  One of the rear wheels has broken or collapsed.  Seriously?", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3328, "id": 105781, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 481, "len_tokens": 565, "text": "We bought this samsung refrigerator which had been nothing but trouble. We have owned it 4 years maybe, and this is the 2nd motor we have had to buy. The first, we tried to get Samsung to fix (it was within a few months of buying it new from Lowes). They said it would take weeks and be a $50 service call, minimum...what??? First, we need cold food, second, we just paid for the fridge, now you want to charge us more?? Needless to say, this will be our last Samsung anything, but we set about fixing it ourselves. My husband researched and YouTubed. We bought this motor, let it defrost a few days (this pushes the cold air around the fridge portion. The freezer still worked perfect, and the fridge wasn't NOT working, it just wasn't very cold because the cold air wasn't circulating). He took off the back panel, and replaced the motor with this one. I believe the first time, he had to replace the fan too, as it was glued to the motor. This time (this was our SECOND motor...in FOUR years), since we didn't glue our motor to the fan, we didn't need to replace the fan. I'm not sure if all fans are glued or we were just lucky... anyway, motor replacement is pretty straightforward once you have the back panel of the fridge side off. Motor works great, the problem is not with the motor. I highly recommend this motor. The problem is with the fridge itself. We learned after the second motor that the unit needs can NOT be level. It has to be leaning forward. For us, we couldn't even get the back legs long enough to solve our problem. We had to jam small pieces of wood under the back legs to make it lean forward just enough to keep ANY moisture from getting to the back of the fridge, which will collect on the motor and freeze, killing the motor over time. This will happen if it is level, or even leaning slightly forward. We had to make the angle great enough that force is needed to close the fridge because it is leaning forward (not enough to notice with the eye or move items in the fridge, but the door will not close because of the angle unless it is purposeful. And this couldn't be achieved with just the legs it came with. We also had to shave down our cabinets as this fridge already is so tall and barely fit). Anyway, great motor, if you are having problems with the RS265TDRS (or possibly other models, since they seem to not know how to build a refrigerator or admit mistakes and recall/fix these mistakes), this motor will get your refrigerator circulating air again and get your food cold again at a great price with quick delivery.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3329, "id": 47359, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 500, "len_tokens": 586, "text": "First I just want to say that we've had our washer & dryer(LG DLE2516W) for over a year and have never had 1 single problem.\n\nOnce my husband and I knew we were having twins we decided it would be best to get a new washer/dryer since the one we had did not hold many clothes to wash & drying normally took at least 2 hours! It was one of the connected over/unders, our \"laundry room\" is tiny and side by side would not fit.\n\nThe search began for an affordable but good quality washer/dryer. After reading many reviews about tons of different washer/dryers I found this one had the best reviews for the affordable price range we were looking at. Do an online search and you will find more positive reviews.\n\nWe bought ours locally on sale and the delivery men set it up in no time. They did NOT take the time to make sure it was level so it did make a lot of noise & shake at first(we have ours stacked) but my husband was able to easily level it and no more shaking or noise.\n\nSince I had read that this washer(as well as many other front loaders) begin to stink after a while we decided to always leave the door open when we are not using it. This does NOT create any sort of problem or get in the way at all. We have NEVER had any stinky washer or clothes!! Even the times when I have forgotten to take the clothes out and they get stinky, one normal wash and everything is smelling clean again.\n\nThis says you have to use special detergent and I can tell you that we have NEVER used special detergent and have NEVER had any problems, no stink, no over suds, nothing. We've used a bunch of different brands as well, Era, All, Dreft, etc.\n\nAs you can imagine with twins sometimes we have a TON of laundry. I can have a big basket overflowing with clothes and all of it fits and then some. It doesn't look like the washer would be that big but it fits a ton of clothes. Takes what normally would be several loads of laundry and combines them into 1. I use Dreft(or generic Dreft) and fabric softener and the clothes come out smelling SO good always. Even if my girls have gotten their clothes exceptionally messy with food, even if I forget to put on the 'stain' cycle or forget to spray on stain remover, all of their clothes normally come out completely clean-no stains. Not always because some things tend to stain no matter what if you don't immediatly wash them but even if there is a stain, their clothes are still always clean.\n\nWe LOVE it. It does a great job!! And as someone who does a TON of laundry & used to work at a Laundry Mat, I am a good judge of washers!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3330, "id": 88111, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3331, "id": 310050, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 431, "len_tokens": 524, "text": "Remove two screws from the rear of top cover.\nSlide top back about an inch and lift up, set aside. Remove one control panel screw left side as viewed from back. Phillips\nRemove soap drawer by pushing down release tab.\nRemove control panel by easing it out if plastic clips, being nice to it is not required as it's pretty sturdy.\nRemove drum seal retaining ring. Thin plastic putty knife.\nRemove drain door and inside plastic housing. Phillips\nRemove front panel screw that is behind the plastic housing. Phillips\nRemove the screws from the top of the front panel. 1/4\" nut driver or Phillips\nTilt forward about a quarter and disconnect the door switch jack\nTilt panel past 45 degrees and lift off.\nRemove the hoses. Spring clip pliers.\nYou might get some water here.\nRemove the wires from each of the pumps, take a picture if your memory sucks.\nThere are now 3 10mm bolts holding the pump assembly bracket down. Two front one back. Feel around for them, you can't see them.\nPull the assembly out, loosen assembly from bracket, no need to completely remove it.\nReplace one or both pump motors, tighten to bracket, reinstall, put the wires and tubes back on.\nSet front panel back in at an angle, start to close it up and plug your door switch back in.\nPull the washer boot out and inside the panel.\nReplace all the screws, the plastic housing and the drain cover.\nFit the tub gasket onto the door panel and seat it uniformly.\nPut the retaining spring ring around the gasket.\nThis part is tricky. I bought a cheap pair of brake spring pliers, heated up one end and bent the tip backwards then ground both prongs to the spring end sizes. Hey, worked for me. Work the ring up both sides as far as you can and put your pliers on, expand the spring and let it snap back.\nI'm sure there are lots of other ways to do this including buying the 150.00 special* tool but watch you don't tear the drum gasket. (goes without saying) replace the control panel, put that screw back in it, slide the top on, replace the two screws, and marvel at how you got through this without ever unplugging or closing the water valves. Or...you could remember to unplug and valve off and save your free pass at life for another day.\nSo yeah, the parts fit and the whole repair will take you 20 minutes or so if you don't go making custom tools.\nHope this helps someone.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3332, "id": 513811, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 487, "len_tokens": 586, "text": "Overall Review:\n\nI've had this EdgeStar washer/dryer combo for a year and decided it was time to write a review about it that hopefully answers some of the questions/concerns others have had about this product.\n\nThe first thing you have to remember is this solution is a niche solution and not a direct replacement for a stand alone full-size washer and dryer.  This runs of 120v, doesn't require a dryer vent, fits under a cabinet, and is both a washer and dryer in one unit.  The quote I had for plumbing my condo for a full-size washer and dryer was about $5,000 compared to the cost of one of these units.  So if plumbing, electric, space, or a dryer vent are issues then this might be a good solution for you.\n\nYes, it takes longer to dry because its 120v. Yes the capacity is smaller than a normal unit but again see the last paragraph.\n\nA full cotton/normal wash cycle and dry is about 3 hours. It isn't that big of a deal with a little planning.  I can kick a cycle off before I leave for work and get 1-2 cycles in at night.\n\nIn terms of clothes being wet after a cycle all I can say is that hasn't been my experience.  Yes if I pre-soak a towel or two and then throw them in wet it will take a few dry cycles.  However, if I load the machine up about 3/4 full and let it run then everything comes out almost completely dry.  If there is a little moisture left it dissipates quickly.\n\nEven if you don't add a dry cycle (you have to specify otherwise it just washes) the clothes are a little damp but not soaking wet.  You could hang them and they would dry quickly.\n\nI will say that for 1-2 people in a household this is probably adequate but if you have a family you'd have to be running this unit 24/7 to keep up if you're washing and drying with it.\n\nThe big draw to me was the cost savings over plumbing/buying full size units, I can wash almost everything, and I don't have to constantly run back and forth to the laundry center on the property.\n\nInstall Notes:\n\nBe aware that many plumbers I found were not familiar with this style of unit and were very apprehensive about installing it so I ended up doing most of the install work myself.\n\nFor my install I did a tee off my sink's hot and cold water line and ran them into a traditional washing machine outlet box.\n\nThe output hose is the same as a dishwasher hose.  My dishwasher ran into the disposal so I added what is called a tailpiece pipe for this to drain into.\n\nOnce the plumbing install is done everything else is easy.  The electrical cord is a standard 120v so no issues there.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3333, "id": 517339, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 460, "len_tokens": 527, "text": "Update: 2 weeks later. Still not resolved by samsung.\n\nI bought this 4 months ago. My wife and I really like it for the most part. We have them stacked with the dryer on top.  It has good features, but that is where it stops. I now regret purchasing it.\n\nIt died on us after only 4 months. I hit the power button and it lit up and then the lights went off and never came back on again. Dead. Turns out the main and secondary control board is broken. This is not even a wear item!\n\n 2 chat sessions and 3 phone calls. Honestly, I will never buy a Samsung appliance again. They customer service is awful. They are really bad at training their employees, every time I called I received a different answer.\n\nAfter the first phone call they said they were going to file a repair claim. Then they called an hour later, which I missed and they sent me an email. The email had a link to check to make sure it was plugged in and it had power. At the bottom of the email it said the claim was being closed. Are you serious! They were going to close the claim without even knowing if it fixed.\n\nEvery time I called I gave them the claim number, and they never read any of the notes from the previous discussions. I had to repeat myself every time. I have spent about 2 hours on the phone with them. At the end of the last phone call the had written down the wrong issue, the wrote that it wouldn't turn off.\n\nFinally I got a service company to contact me, and they were rude. They told me I would have to unstack the washer and dryer or they wouldn't come out. So they expect me to lift a dryer off the washer and do their job. When they installed it they stacked it.  I was then told to hire a moving company to do it. WOW.\n\nSo as of right now I am waiting for different repair company to call me to schedule a repair and we are running out of cloths and having to line dry everything.  I will try to update if it gets repaired.\n\nThe first company that was going to perform the repairs was a D rated company by the BBB. The 2nd company has 14 reviews and 75% of them are terrible.\n\nI am a contractor and I am telling all my clients and friends to avoid Samsung appliances. They should stick to TVs and phones. We are renovating our kitchen soon and will not be buying and Samsung appliances and my friend is now canceling his order for his new kitchen.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3334, "id": 87287, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3335, "id": 249435, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 450, "len_tokens": 537, "text": "These were a perfect fit for my Jenn-Air dual fuel, five-burner range / oven. I could have given them a five star rating because they are exactly like the original knobs. I could have have given them a -3 star rating (had that been a possibility) for the exact same reason. These knobs, as are the original, are junk. I agree with every reviewer who has said the same thing and asked the same burning question: Oh why oh why on such an otherwise fine stove did you have to make the burner knobs out of cheap (insert expletive of choice) plastic? And like many other reviewers, I searched in vain for a metal equivalent. You would think some entrepreneur with a 3D printer making metal parts for the automobile industry who had some down time would step up and make a few dollars on the side. But no. Oh well....\n\nThese knobs arrived promptly in pristine condition and were the exact replacement I needed. I can't in good conscience fault the seller for providing the only available (to the best of my knowledge) replacement part. So... four stars, leaving off one star in meaningless protest.\n\nNow for some USEFUL information... Some reviewers mentioned that the knobs didn't fit because of a metal insert that prevented insertion onto the shaft on the stove top. It is quite possible that the metal insert from the broken original knob is still on the shaft on the stove top. When the plastic breaks, that metal \"D\" shaped insert almost always stays on the shaft as it is a snug fit. This piece is easily remove using common pliers, pulling gently, straight up. Also, I have discovered a way to fix the broken plastic shaft on the knob. I first make sure that the metal \"D\" shaped insert isn't still in the knob (it's ALWAYS remained on the shaft on the stove top) and then I simply superglue the broken bits together. Not having a clamp small enough to hold the parts together firmly, I use needle nosed pliers to hold the parts together for a precise amount of time, measured by whistling my alma mater's fight song 17 times. Finally, I reinforce the plastic shaft with a very small cable tie (aka zip tie). Viola! I've done this to the four out of five knobs that have broken, thank you very much Jenn-Air. (I am an unfathomable abyss of self righteous sarcasm. Please forgive me.) I plan on holding all five replacement knobs in reserve for when my jury rigged repairs inevitably fail, though it has been well over two years since the first knob broke. I hope this has been helpful.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3336, "id": 185238, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 455, "len_tokens": 539, "text": "Yes this review is about the D110 compact dryer also known as the Avanti compact Dryer\n\nBut, FIRST OFF: I had the Haier Compact Washer and Dryer for a long time. Even though I went through 3 washers, the Haier dryer lasted through all those for about 3 years. For the price I was happy with that. NOW I had to replace it finally because the bearings must have went bad and started grinding.\n\nSO what do I see? Oh look it has a little window and for some reason the appeal of the dial on this Avanti Dryer  drew me to it. I found it from a seller fulfilled by Amazon and bought ti for within a few dollars of what it would have costs to buy another Haier...  After all I had no problems with the Haier dryer before but that could have been a fluke because I wore the washers out. And other people had problems with the Haier dryers so  I wasn't brand loyal or anything. (A penny will kill a Haier compact washing machine left in a pocket)\n\nAnyway long story short. I really liked the appearance of this one this here Avanti compared to the Haier  and as for the reviews who talks about the smell of hot plastic I didn't smell that at all.\n\nI did notice it was harder to mount and the vent coming out of the back is smaller then standard so my dryer exhaust hose was too big and had to be rigged up to work. To those of you not venting these dryers,  your doing it wrong. This and the haier have to be vented....  Period.\n\nAnyway finally I get it up and turn it on awful squeak and grind loud as the one I just set o the curb the day before this one arrived.  God why.. I wanted it to work so bad.. But it didn't and I read the reviews about taking the back off and finding belts and pulleys loose but you know what, I shouldn't have to do that or look for that in a new  A BRAND NEW APPLIANCE. I boxed it up and sent it back and am about to buy  another Haier if nothing else to hide the big hole in my appliance wall where I threw the old one away and now returning this one..  Again, I wanted it to work so bad. It is really attractive  but it is cheap junk  prettied up on the outside junk and plastic on the inside. ...\n\nI returned it with ease to Amazon and got a refund fast so now I can buy the next one.\n\nHapppy with Amazon, BUT Sad about the fools gold product....", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3337, "id": 215707, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 449, "len_tokens": 512, "text": "Since it was delivered and set up it makes extremely loud fan noises from the Ice bin Compartment. Right away I called GE cares and they DID NOT Care at all, at first the wanted to debate with me that the new eco-efficient fridges like this one are noisier so they are better on the environment. First of all I do not believe in AL GORES pseudo-Science, second of all I will gladly pay a higher energy bill for a quiet fridge! After debating with the lady on the phone she agreed to send a tech 10 days later.\n\n9 days later the Tech calls me on the phone and asks what the problems are. I repeated to him what I repeated to the GE Cares lady. He says ok I have to order fans for that and hangs up without any further communication. The next day I waited around all day and no Tech, so I called the GE Cares # again, and am told that the tech has to reschedule because he doesn't have the parts for the fridge.... Now I'm thinking to myself, how does the Tech know for sure what parts he needs if he hasn't even come out to look at the fridge yet? So I get a rescheduling of one week later.\n\nOne week later, The tech finally comes out and the parts are available. He quickly looks at the fridge and realizes he has the wrong fan part, he needs a different fan part... Something he would have known if he simply came out the first time as scheduled. So now he rescheduled me for one more week away and orders a different fan. One week later \"which is today... The Tech just left my house\"  he shows up and the part is available, he proceeds to uninstall the fan he believes is making the noise, and after unplugging it I have to bring to his attention that the noise is still happening. He is stumped \"like a deer in headlights\"  Then he opens his computer and out comes a cord that he plugs into the top of the fridge.... Where was this computer last time I wonder to myself? After turning all the fans off and on, he comes to the conclusion it is a different Fan that is bad... The Ice Cabinet Fan.... which is what I told the Tech and the GE Cares lady the first times I talked to them. So now I have an appointment scheduled for one more week from today and the noise is still happening and GE is horrible! I will now do a search on the internet to research LEMON LAWS of Fridges!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3338, "id": 539158, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 385, "len_tokens": 500, "text": "This is a very poor quality stove.\n\nIt \"looks\" nice.  But it has shoddy workmanship.  Here's the details:  My 'handyman' did a lot of sanding of drywall AFTER he installed the cabinets, counter top, and appliances (don't get me started).  So when I moved in, and before I could use the stove for the first time, I needed to fully clean the stove to get up all the sheet-rock dust so I didn't burn it when I turned the burner on, and then inhale the burn particles.  After vacuuming up the dust, I then took a wet paper towel to get up the last of it, after first removing the burner coil, and the collector pan, and promptly sliced my finger off.  Okay, that's an exaggeration, but seriously, the sheet metal edge for the burner coil hole was razor sharp.  By the time I finished cleaning it, I had cut my fingers 4 times, 3 on the thumb and 1 on the pinky.  Seriously razor sharp.  I am nearly 60 years old and have cleaned a lot of stove tops in my life by taking the burners out and cleaning burnt debris, and I have never once sliced a finger cleaning.\n\nGetting the burners out to clean underneath was extremely difficult.  On all 4 burners, the two prongs seemed to snag on something inside the slot they go into.  All 4 burners.  You really have to yank and jerk to get them out.  I am thinking to myself WTH?  And then when you put them back in, they do not go back in smoothly, and the burners will not lay flat.  Again, I am nearly 60 yo and have cleaned a lot of stove tops over the years, and I have never had trouble getting burners out or getting them back in.\n\nI have not used the oven yet, but when you open the over door, the oven shelf is sauntered crooked.  The saunter seam is right in front.  Seriously?  I will add a photo later of this crooked saunter.\n\nI am reporting this finger slicing stove top to the FDA.  I would return it if I could.  I will talk to Amazon and see if I can.  I don't want to penalize the seller.  But this stove is a piece of junk unfortunately.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3339, "id": 63527, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 464, "len_tokens": 531, "text": "DO NOT BUY. Customer support for this unit is non existent!! We have had our washer since January of 2008. Last week the washer failed to drain and the door would not unlock. Finally after playing with the control panel repeatedly and unplugging the unit and then plugging it in, the door unlocked but the clothes were sitting in a pool of dirty water which stained our white shirts and the remaining dirty water would not drain. We noticed that the only time it seemed to lock up and display a \"nd\" code on the display for no drain was if the washer had a couple pieces of clothes in it. Our home consist of two adults and a teenager so it is not overworked! Sometimes with one or two articles of clothes in the drum it will run all the way through completing the entire wash but NEVER with a regular load. Everytime a medium or normal load of wash is put in, it locks during the spin cycle, displays a \"nd\" on the electronic display, We explained this thoroughly over the phone to Amana's customer service dept and to the tech that came for the repar visit. The Service repair man came and said pump was bad and replaced it for $280, checking it by running an empty cycle through spin even though we told him it only does it when loaded. That same evening we tried to wash a load of clothes and the exact same problem occurred. We called Amana back and they said that depending on what the tech finds wrong on the repair visit Oct 10, they might charge us again for more parts!! Unbelievaable lack of service for a barely over 3 and a half year old product!! Amana's customer service department took the approach that it was out of warranty, we did not purchase an extended warranty and therefore there was nothing they would/could do. Working in Customer service myself for 28 years, I know that is not the truth as every major company that I know of has the ability to assist their customers with out of warranty repairs on a customer goodwill basis. In addition, when my GE Profile Fridge (came with the house we bought)had issues, GE agreed to pay for half the parts and labor for the repairs and they even sent a $100 check for loss of the food that spoiled DESPITE being out of warranty and that unit is older than my Amana washer. Amana simply chose to not assist a customer that has purchased a new Amana Fridge, washer and dryer in recent years.\nProduct is one thing, service after the sale and making an attempt to assist your loyal customers is equally important. Amana failed at both.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3340, "id": 87319, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3341, "id": 219332, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 532, "len_tokens": 596, "text": "At 1/3 the cost of some of the name brands that we found through Sears or Best Buy this unit looks just as nice and works very well.  The fan is a bit louder on level 3 than I would expect (almost impossible to converse with someone standing near it) but the suction is very powerful.  The LED lights were a concern for me originally but they are actually much brighter than what other reviewers led me to believe.  They are certainly more than adequate to cook by and much brighter than my previous late 90's hood light that had the frosted and grease covered plastic over it.  The unit is fairly easy to clean with just a damp cloth but we have not tried cleaning the vents yet as we do not do a lot of greasy cooking under, usually just steam.  The steel of the exhaust port is easy to simply wipe down with a mild cleaner but the glass does collect a lot of dust.  You should expect to wipe the glass down at least once per week especially if you have any pets (I am not sure how it is possible but my husky finds a way to have some of his hair settle on top of the glass).\n\nOverall this unit performs very well and meets our expectations and needs but there a few changes I would like to have in it.  The clock is 24 hour style only and cannot be changed to 12 hour.  For most people this is ok but might be bothersome to others.  We wish the lights had a dim setting that could be used as night lights perhaps but instead they are either on or off. We wish the highest suction setting was a little quieter.\n\nIn response to all the people that said the instructions were terrible or not adequate, I am not sure what they were looking at.  The wording on the instructions does seem to suggest that they were put through multiple levels of a translator website but that doesnt matter much.  Just looking at the pictures and looking at the parts it is rather simple to figure out the only way that it is possible to put the thing together.  While some screws may be difficult to reach or the unit may need to be flipped over once or twice it was not overly difficult to assemble.  The hardest part is definitely getting the thing hung on the ceiling once the bracket is attached.  I suggest you have at least two strong helpers as the thing is heavy and will need to be held up long enough for someone to attache 4 screws around it at least.  I would not trust the screws that they sent to hang it on the sheetrock ceiling and would suggest that you do what I did and reinforce the mounting plate by adding wooden braces in the ceiling. I was replacing a cabinet mounted unit so I already had my ceiling open and didn't want to trust sheetrock to hold up this units heft.\n\nOverall a good product at a great price compared to the $1000.00+ units I saw elsewhere", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3342, "id": 103844, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 444, "len_tokens": 545, "text": "After much research I bought this range 2 years ago, and overall I'm very pleased with it. Here's how I rate my Bertazzoni from good to bad:\n\nFirst the best part: It's strikingly beautiful, and the cooktop is amazingly versatile in its heat range. This is also my first time using convection, and I LOVE it, I had no idea roast chicken could be so good! The price point is also fantastic.\n\nNow the pretty good:I also really like the electric ignition feature. It took\na bit to get used to, it can be tricky to get the oven properly lit. You have to keep the door ajar untill its fully lit (takes around 60 seconds)and if you close the door too soon the flame goes out. So a little fussy, but no big deal.\n\nNow the kinda bad: The oven is HUGE, probably overkill for my family of four.\nI feel like a huge energy waster getting it all fired up to bake a simple casserole. Also you MUST use two oven thermometers if you are doing something delicate like a souffle. (Which I have done, and it turned out beautifully.) One side gets hotter than the other and the oven temp NEVER matches what the setting on the dial says. Using the convection feature and two thermometers corrects for this problem completly. I get extremly even and uniform browning while baking 4 trays of cookies at once and my pizza is perfectly crispy. In retrospect I might have gone with the 30\" model, but I REALLY wanted 5 burners. Anyways...\n\nThe worst part: It has a truly uncool (uncool, get it? Sorry, bad pun) cooling feature that vents hot air into your kitchen. The first page of the manual explains that you will need to double the exhaust in your kitchen to compensate. Which I am in no position to do at this point. It's fine in the winter, actually cuts back on our furnace usage, but in the summer it makes my house an inferno. So, light summertime baking is no longer an option. Not that I love baking in the summertime anyway, so I am learning to deal with it. I do wish I had known this ahead of time, I can imagine it would be a deal breaker if you lived in New Mexico (I live in Portland, Oregon by the way.)\n\nI do love my Bertazzoni, and I would recommend it to someone who loves to putz around the kitchen, and has time and patience to deal with the quirks. If you are busy and highly value precision in an oven, this might not be for you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3343, "id": 558991, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 415, "len_tokens": 513, "text": "We recently bought an older home where we really needed a 36\" range that could make a statement in the kitchen. I've had a few friends/coworkers who spent the money on Viking ranges and have had nothing but trouble with them. We looked at Thor, Jen-Air, Thermador and Wolf and I just could not justify the cost while we needed an entire houseful of appliances. I was able to track down the Verona ranges at a local appliance retailer and was pleasantly surprised. We took a chance, its been 2 months and so far I'm quite pleased. My husband and I both cook a lot (I would have loved to get a gas range...but that wasn't an option for us in this house)...Looks, its a stunner! The oven while not as high as what I'm used to, I like the width, I can easily place pans side by side--which is something I couldn't do in our 30\" oven. So I don't feel we're missing out on the space in the oven. It bakes evenly and the convection option is a great feature, the warming function is also great. I read other reviews where people complained about the lack of features...I haven't noted anything. It heats up well and has cooked lasagna, cookies and cheesecake very nicely. The cooktop is easy to clean, the middle element is great for big soup pots and the side elements handle our cast iron griddle nicely too! Where I think improvements can be made, the dials...it would be nice to have them easier to read, the first few weeks I kept bending down to read the dials! A self cleaning feature could be nice...not a deal breaker for me as I prefer to manually clean the oven...but it would be nice to have the option. Otherwise, for the a 36\" pro-style range, the Verona comes in at a reasonable price point, has style and (so far) functions really well!\n\nA follow-up: Thanksgiving was a couple of days ago and this oven performed beautifully! This was the first year in years...that we didn't have a double oven and I was nervous that we wouldn't have enough oven space to get dinner on the table hot. Well, the width of the oven was a lifesaver! 18lb Turkey was on one side, with a casserole dish on the other side and other sides heating above on the upper rack. Dinner was served hot and there was plenty of room in the oven!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3344, "id": 301125, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 447, "len_tokens": 519, "text": "Myself and my fiance moved into our new home where there was a washroom that measured exactly 54\" wide, 32\" deep, JUST enough room to squeeze two units side by side. The alternative was stacking the units on one side of the room. The issue with that was we would have to open the wall and reroute the dryer vent to higher up on the wall and across from where it currently sat. As new homeowners, not particularly handy with drywall and having enough expenses as it was, this wasn't much of an option for us but it seemed that it would be what we'd have to do. We began looking for dual units that would just cut it depth wise, but now the issue became the depth of the dryer vent pushing the would-be dryer out of the wall too far, and the doors of the units not all being reversible. As such, they wouldn't clear the door frame.\n\nOne day in my search, I came across this type of all-in-one machine. Many people complained that the unit didn't dry their clothes properly, or enough, whereas others said that theirs dried perfectly. We were hesitant, but trusted that this was likely either user error (like not choosing the correct drying mode) or having the drain hose having to pump too high up to efficiently drain the machine. We decided to pull the trigger and give it a try, since now only having one unit allowed us to put it in the middle of the washroom and still have storage on either side, being ventless meant that it would fit depth wise and didn't require any work on the wall or vent behind it (or replacing the junky flammable tubing that came with the house to the external vent), and the timer allowed us to set the wash to go off overnight and be ready for us by morning. Problems solved!\n\nWe've had it for almost a month now, and it works perfectly. The drain house is about 4 feet off of the ground, and we set the dryer to \"more\" when we put in a particularly large load. Just treat the machine like it's not an industrial washer and your clothes will come out fine. When they start to fill the whole drum, we run a load. The machine will spin a few times to determine the weight of the load, and then will estimate how long it needs to run for. For us, it's usually a 3-4 hour run, which again is fine when you can set the timer the night before and/or start a load in the morning, or afternoon. Hope this review helps!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3345, "id": 87159, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3346, "id": 548459, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 410, "len_tokens": 506, "text": "I did a ton of research on my specific AC needs before landing on this unit. This was purchased for use in a nursery and installed through the wall. Ive been using this unit for 2 moths now in peak season and have zero complaints. Let me break down why this unit is so awesome\n\nTHROUGH-THE-WALL OR WINDOW\nThe biggest benefit, not listed in Amazons description, is this unit has a SLIDE-OUT CHASIS - making it ideal for a through-the-wall installation (up to 8 thick). After removing the grille, the entire guts of the A/C slide out on a tray, leaving you with a metal sleeve to install. Once the sleeve is installed, just slide the tray back in and re-assemble. This unit can also be mounted in a window with some additional assembly, all necessary parts are included. Either way you install it, its much easier installing a light metal shell and re-assembling than trying to install an entire unit at full weight.\n\nQUIET\nReviews on other sites praised how quiet this unit is, and its true! This was a huge concern and I would have returned it in a second if I wast happy with the volume. It has three fan settings. I keep it on low and it quietly cools the room without waking the baby.\n\nEFFECTIVE\nIt works fast! I have this unit installed in a 200 sq. ft. room and Ive seen it drop the temperature 10 degrees in about 20 minutes.\n\nEFFICIENT\nThis unit is also energy efficient. Like most modern A/Cs it turns to fan mode when your ideal temperature is met. It also has an energy saver modes which cools to 74, and completely shuts off for a while until it needs to turn itself back on. Its a nice feature although a little startling to a baby, I just leave it on.\n\nOTHER\nAesthetically, its fine. Its not as modern or sleek as other A/Cs Ive seen, but this was the least of my concerns. It also comes with a magnetic remote, pretty cool. I just leave it stuck to the side of the unit.\n\nSUMMARY\nId highly recommend this unit, especially if you plan on doing a through-the-wall install. It was far cheaper, and more efficient, than any other true through-the-wall units I researched. Remember you cannot block the intake vents on the side, so if your walls are thicker than 8 this unit may not be for you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3347, "id": 527232, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 395, "len_tokens": 508, "text": "The product worked, but this was not an easy repair for me to make.  I have a Kenmore front-load washer from 2009 (model number 417.48102701).  The controls started \"acting crazy\" (LEDs were randomly blinking, settings changing by themselves, etc.) and a quick Google search helped me identify the problem as being caused by a bad control board.  I found a forum that linked to the service manual for the washer, so I bought this board and replaced the bad board.  The good news is that the washer works again. The bad news is that it was a long, frustrating repair job which took something like 2 1/2 hours total.  I went through three iterations of disassembling-and-reassembling the machine.\n\nThe service manual was written for people who already know what they're doing, whereas I had essentially no experience fixing appliances.  The biggest problem was that after i re-assembled the washing machine, the program knob was badly misaligned, in the sense that the pointer on the knob didn't point to the correct program listed on the console.  So I had to partially disassemble the machine, and then troubleshoot the issue with the control board hanging down by its wires, while the machine was plugged in (possible electrical risk here).  I more-or-less figured out how to align the knob, but then re-assembly was surprisingly difficult (the shaft didn't seem to want to go into the knob properly, and I had to fiddle with the thing).  When I finally reassembled, the pointer was off by one click.  So I disassembled again, tried to fix it, and reassembled (again, with difficulty).  Still off by one click.  At this point, I gave up, and I now run the machine while keeping in mind that the pointer points one click to the right of the actual setting.\n\nIn addition to the above difficulty, I experienced several other, smaller issues, such as problems getting parts to snap in place properly (or unsnap when disassembling).  I'm sure that if I were more handy, I wouldn't have had these same frustrations.  Or, at least, I'd solve them quicker.\n\nAnyway, the point I'm trying to make here is that if you want to fix your own washer, you should probably be more experienced than I was.  Or maybe you can find a friend, relative, or neighbor to do it for you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3348, "id": 88607, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3349, "id": 494978, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 471, "len_tokens": 547, "text": "- I am an architect with 45 yrs in the high end house biz - in this case, I am talking about a first hand experience, as we bought it for our new house and learned several very important lessons.\nFYI - I am not a paid in anyway to put this review out there... and we did not buy ours thru amazon.\n\nBE WARNED - THE COOLING FAN IS EXTREMELY LOUD AND DISTURBING. (as i have now learned, many products have the same issue of late as they have gone to similar cooling solutions... for glass as electronics - they say)\nFEW FOLKS are ABLE TO RUN THEM IN THE STORE TO SEE HOW THEY SOUND OR really WORK... and are left relying on a sales person or reviews like this one - please do your homework. Push them on details...\n- it took some work but we are now finding out, after the fact, that we are not alone in our concerns.\n- Try to find a show room that lets you run it - if you can\n- push them for very specific details...\n- find out the return policy\n\nMajor Issue:\nNOISE from the cooling fan is SO intrusive as to make it unusable in our house (it is equal to our BIG exhaust hood at mid setting). Other kitchen layouts that use a staff might be fine... But it runs all the time and blows hot air 30\"s off the ground directly at you and your kitchen.\n- since learned, trying to replace it, there are many ranges at this price point that have switched to this cooling method.\n- some have a subtle difference in the way the fan cools the door and the electronics ( which are limited in most of them...) we are going with the SMEG and will report accordingly.\n\nBertazzoni did not even feel we had a problem ( and does not have decibel rating for it nor do many others).\n\non a positive note, the cook top seemed to work well for the 1 month we owned it. we did not use the oven but once so we have no experience.\nFYI - you need to use a thermostat inside to know what the temp is as there are no gauges...\n\n- this range is graciously being taken back by our vendor as we do a great deal of business with them, but you don't want to count on that  and it is certainly not the practice of Bertazzoni as they and other mfg's of similar product do not see it is a problem.\nAfter much research we intend to replace it with SMEG of similar spec... and do intend to buy it thru Amazon  as our vendor does not yet carry it - we shall see how it goes.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3350, "id": 100706, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 485, "len_tokens": 595, "text": "I use my wonderwash about four times a week, mostly for small items like cloth diapers (pre-rinsed by hand first), baby clothes, socks and underwear.\n\nFor me, it does what I wanted it to do, which is save the vast amounts of money we were previously spending using the $4 washers and dryers in our apartment building. I'm glad I got it and would buy it again.\n\nThe pros:\n* Clothes really do come out clean. Even diapers. No problems.\n* It doesn't take too long. Not as super-speedy as you might expect given that washing takes only two minutes of handle-turning and rinsing takes one minute, but still, it's about 10 minutes a load even with the poor water pressure in our taps. (The time-consuming part, for me, is filling up the washer with 6 quarts of water, once for washing and once for drying, and also waiting for the water to drain out again after each part of the cycle.) I used it in the bathtub once, where we have much better water pressure. The filling took only a few seconds, but the turning was much more awkward. So now I do it on the kitchen countertop and drain into the kitchen sink.)\n\nThe cons:\n* It's not horrible to turn, but it's not just a quick twiddling of your fingers either. There is a moderate amount of actual effort involved.\n* DON'T FORGET THAT THINGS WILL COME OUT SOPPING WET. The machine doesn't spin at all, so you have to get the water out yourself by wringing things manually. This takes a while, especially if your load consists of a billion small items, and all the wringing is more effort than turning the machine. If you did this to a no-iron shirt, you'd get horrible wrinkles that would be tough to get out even with an iron. And also, no matter how well I wring the clothes, they still end up considerably wetter than they would be if they'd been through a regular washing machine with a spin cycle. Since I hang clothes to dry in our apartment, that means I wait about 12 hours for them to be completely dry, rather than about four. This means that our apartment is almost never free from \"decorations\" of socks draped over the chairs. I think it is probably worth getting one of those mini-spinners too, to take care of this problem.\n\nTips:\n* As I saw in someone else's review before I bought it, it really is easier to turn the handle if you have the full six quarts of water in it, even if you're not washing a \"full\" load of clothes.\n* Don't use much detergent, or you'll have to do more than one rinse to get rid of it all. The clothes really do come out clean even with only a teaspoon or so. Less if it's the HE stuff.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3351, "id": 88591, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3352, "id": 408907, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 444, "len_tokens": 515, "text": "This is a super nice mini refrigerator / freezer combo.  For now, I'm giving it 5 stars because I love it.  Hopefully, it will hold up through time.  I took a chance on a little known brand because the price was right.  My daughter is heading off to college in the fall and I bought this for her to reduce food costs and give her more options for meals in her room if she's hungry.  I have to tell you that I have a smaller mini fridge in my office at work that doesn't have a freezer section and when this arrived and I unpacked it, I wanted to trade with her!  It arrived in perfect condition and I immediately set it up, adjusted the temperature control and plugged it in.  The next day, I loaded it up with drinks and popped several microwave dinners into the freezer compartment.  The next day we cooked up one of the frozen dinners and tried out a drink.  The dinner was properly frozen and the drink was perfectly cold.  I love that the fridge has a separate basket section for fresh produce as my daughter always likes to have fresh fruit on hand to eat.  The door section has a designated area for cans and another for liter bottles which would also work for juice or milk.  The only thing I wish this refrigerator had was optional ledges for adjusting the height of the racks.  As it currently is, if she has something tall to put in the fridge, she can remove one rack and place it on top of the other giving her 1 large/tall section but this will reduce her storage space since this would make 2 sections become 1.  If there were additional rack ledges, she could possibly still make a taller section and retain a 2\"-3\" section for smaller items like yogurts etc.  However, all in all, this is a wonderful mini refrigerator that appears to be working perfectly.  I did purchase a 2 year warranty in case issues develop in the future since this isn't a well known brand.\n\nI received a discount for this product in exchange for my honest and unbiased opinion.  I know many potential buyers get concerned when they see someone has received a discount in exchange for a review as they worry that the review may be inflated.  I myself pay attention to this when reading reviews on products I'm considering purchasing.  Please be assured that receiving a discount in no way influences my reviews as I am committed to providing accurate information based solely on my experiences with products for the benefit of all other buyers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3353, "id": 87855, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3354, "id": 178132, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 444, "len_tokens": 538, "text": "This part arrived FAST thanks to Prime and was a perfect replacement for the failed oven ignitor on my KitchenAid convection oven.  I had searched the regular Whirlpool repair products and saw 2 different ignitors for my oven.  The customer rep for them was worthless as she had no clue either as to which was the correct igniter so I ordered both.  The one I didn't need arrived first after 5 days so I had to call them to find out where the right one was in their system... not wanting to take ca chance, I searched for the part on good old Amazon!  It was less expensive and arrived in 2 days (other part from the Whirlpool place arrived three days later than the Amazon part's arrival.\n\nFor others who need an ignitor for this model of oven, the more expensive one (about $110) is for the top burner of the upper oven.  The lower burner of the top oven and the convection oven is the less expensive part (about $50).  Replacement is fairly easy - first turn off the gas AND unplug the range's power cord!, pull the oven out and unscrew about 8 hex screws (a cordless screwdriver recommended), then remove the back metal panel - there is a gas shutoff rod that you will need to carefully remove as you remove the panel.  Locate the connector to the ignitor you need to replace (you may need to go to the next step to determine which wire set to remove).\n\nNext, inside the oven, remove the oven racks, slide the enamel burner cover to the right and remove it.  Then remove the thumb screw holding the cover plate and then 2 hex screws holding down the burner manifold.  Unscrew the 2 screws holding the old ignitor on the gas manifold and gently remove the gas manifold, leaving the ignitor in the oven - push its wires through to the back to help identify the proper connector.\n\nThen from the back, unplug the ignitor, then from the front remove it.\n\nAttach the new ignitor to the manifold with the 2 screws removed from it.  Be VERY gentle with the ignitor and do NOT touch the element!  from the oven front, position the manifold in place and thread the wires through to the back of the oven.  Neatly position the wires being careful to not damage or pinch them - replace the manifold and tighten, then the rest of the components.  From the oven rear, plug the new ignitor into its connection you unplugged earlier.  Replace the back of the range and the gas shutoff arm, and reverse the removal steps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3355, "id": 182675, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 458, "len_tokens": 555, "text": "We had an agitator washer for a long time. The Dog Agits wore out and I replaced them so it worked ok. However my wife wanted a new one. We did some research and bought a WTW7300X about 2 1/2 years ago. BIG mistake. It's been SO frustrating that if there was such a thing as a time machine, we'd use it to go back in time and buy something else. Two weeks after we got it, the computer board failed. The first tech blamed it on the water feed hoses being clogged. He had NO clue what was wrong and left. Second tech replaced the computer board which solved the problem. We've had CONTINUAL \"unbalanced load\" issues so we can't run it at night because you never know if it's going to complete a cycle. I estimate 30% of the time we get a \"UL\" regardless of how it's loaded or what's in it. 30 days short of two years the tub bearing failed. Fortunately we'd bought it with a CC that extended the warranty for a year so the repair was ok'd by the warranty company. The repair tech said that bearing failure was a common problem but was supposed to have been fixed. Guess not. Shortly after that when we lifted the lid there was a loud \"clunking\" noise near the lid hinge. I determined that the lid spring assembly had come loose and had to retighten it on both sides. When I opened it up to fix the springs, the underside of the top was filled with rust. Water splashes up under the top and stays there, eventually rusting the top. Now clothes are coming out with dark stains on them. It looks like oil and I suspect that the bearing is failing again. And it's also torn some of our son's clothes. So PLEASE save yourselves a LOT of pain and frustration. Don't buy a Cabrio. April 10, 2014 Update. Last night there was rusty water on the floor under the washer. The problem I mentioned about water splashing up under the top at the bleach dispenser apparently happens continuously. There's another review here that addresses the same problem. You just don't notice it until enough water runs down the inside of the washer over time and then overflows from the frame at the bottom. Now the top left side is rusted almost all the way from front to back. There should ba a gasket on the top of the tub funnel tp prevent this from happening. Now, the paints bubbling and all the hose clamps are rusty. So you have this to look forward to if you have one of these. Whoever designed it should be FIRED. What a piece of crap.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3356, "id": 265711, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 582, "text": "We've had this dishwasher for just over six months. Summary: it does not work as expected for this class of appliance. GE service is not as expected.\n\nPros:\n- very quiet\n- lots of settings\n- lots of space\n- matches the rest of the appliances in our new kitchen\n\nCons:\n- detergent left in the door after cycle is complete. We've had a GE tech come out three times. Tried to run hot water in the sink before turning on the dishwasher, we use the recommended detergent, and we made sure nothing's blocking the detergent from coming out. Tech said nothing's really wrong, just a 'piece of crap' dishwasher. GE won't replace it, just keeps sending more techs.\n- if you have to run hot water in the sink for 5 minutes because the dishwasher doesn't heat up the water enough, then we're really not that energy and water efficient.\n- dishes do not dry, even with the temperature boost. We open the door to let things air dry, and have a dishtowel section on our kitchen counter where we put things out to dry. And it's not just the normal ridges, everything's wet.\n- the rinse aid seems like a scam, but we've been using it. Not sure what it does.\n\nWe are trying to get it replaced with same model, will post update if the new one works as designed.\n\nUPDATE November 2014: we're on the third unit now, and within one week had the same problem of detergent not dissolving. As an added bonus this unit leaves marks on the bottom of our pans. It looks like the sprayers stay in one place and just pressure wash the bottom of the pans in one place, leaving a nice pattern of round marks where the coating is blown off the pan. When this unit is gone, we'll need to buy new pans. This has been going on for 13 months. We've had to run so many loads two or more times to clear out the detergent, I think we've wasted all the water and energy we can ever save over the life-time of this product.\nUPDATE September 2014: the new dishwasher, same model, has the same problem. Every few loads, there's one that has detergent all over the door, and we have to run the cycle one or two more times to clear the junk out. Or wipe it with a paper towel, and then run it again without detergent just to rinse the dishes.\nWe also learned that a neighbor with the same model dishwasher has the same issue. We are going to see if we can replace with a different model. We'd like to keep our appliances in our kitchen with matching style, but it's so frustrating to deal with this dishwasher that we're willing to make a change. We'll get a Whirlpool or other brand and start moving our appliances away from GE.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3357, "id": 88103, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3358, "id": 145846, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 433, "len_tokens": 539, "text": "Here is my original review, but please see the updates, below:\n\nSo my circa 1991 Viking Pro oven was taking forever to get hot, and then it didn't really get hot enough. After internet research, I determined the common cause was ignitor failure. Ordered from Home Appliance Parts and paid less than $50. Arrived in about 2 weeks. Extremely well packaged ... original Viking box triple wrapped in bubblewrap, then placed in a sturdy and size appropriate box for shipping. Kudos for wrapping.\n\nInstallation was mostly easy. (I always worry about \"fits all ranges,\" and usually fits nothing I have.) Remove oven racks. Remove side shelves that hold oven racks. Remove bottom tray from oven. All the above simply lift out without tools. Old ignitor right there in front of me and removed with a phillips head screwdriver (two screws). Old unit and new unit, physically look 100% the same, except ... New unit has two male electrical connectors, old unit has one male and one female, as does oven. Old unit had male/female connectors spliced onto unit to adapt it to the oven, so I removed the female spliced connector from the old unit and spliced it onto the new unit. Now, new unit has one male, one female connector. Connectors slide into place. Assemble in reverse. Oven lights off instantly and immediately heats, just like it should. Took less than 15 minutes, start to finish, even with the wire splicing.\n\nTip: I assume that some ovens are set up to accept an ignitor with two male ends (as the ignitor was shipped), and some are probably like mine with alternate connections. Consider purchasing separately (in advance), crimp style or ceramic connectors so that when everything is torn apart, you don't have to put it back together again while you go and search out correct wire connectors for the electrical side.\n\nUPDATE:  Amazon prices have gone way up! Although I paid less than $40 on Amazon last year, as of this writing Amazon is over $100.\n\nUPDATE: 2/9/17. The OEM failed after less than 4 years. In the meantime, OEM prices have gone over $100, while aftermarket prices are about $17 on the big auction website, so I have replaced the OEM with aftermarket. If you choose to go with aftermarket, I have found there are two styles. One is a round, barber pole style of ignitor and the other is a flat style. When I previously bought the barber style, they were so fragile that two were broken in shipment, so I only buy the flat aftermarket style now.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3359, "id": 404791, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 322, "len_tokens": 542, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R3GZW9MHZBYCY0\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/E1R4YrWSemS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91dbQOJuxQS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;This makes ice really fast!\n\nYou can fit just over 1/2 gallon of water in the reservoir and you can have ice in as quick as 6 minutes.\n\nThe unit is very easy to operate.\n- Fill it with water\n- Plug it in\n- Choose either small or large ice\n\nDella sells another model&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/DELLA-Portable-Electric-Ice-Maker-Machine-Yield-Up-To-26-Pounds-of-Ice-Daily-Silver/dp/B01AYKYE4I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">DELLA Portable Electric Ice Maker Machine Yield Up To 26 Pounds of Ice Daily - Silver</a>&nbsp;and I couldn't decide which one to get, so I got them both of them because in an emergency two is better than one and each one produces 26 lbs of ice per day.\n\nA 20 lb bag of ice at Walmart is $4 and once it melts it's gone. When your ice melts in your cooler now you can cycle it back through this machine and make more ice. I'll let you do the math.\n\nAnyway, back to the machines themselves...\nThey are identical in every discernible way except for the lid and the controls.\n\nThey both hold the same amount of water and ice and can hold about 1.5 pounds of ice in the little bucket that is in there.\nThey both have small/large ice sizes to choose from.\nThe units themselves are pretty much the same dimensions.\n\n - The standard model has the buttons on the front and a smaller viewing window.\n\n - This premium model has a bigger viewing window, so you can actually see inside where the magic happens and how the machine makes the ice.\n\nAt least right now, the prices on each of these is the same, so it just comes down to aesthetics and what look you prefer.\n\nI did receive this product at a discount in exchange for my honest review.\n\nIf this review was helpful to you, please let me know by clicking yes/helpful.\n\nThanks,\nTravis", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3360, "id": 88063, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3361, "id": 66723, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 274, "len_tokens": 563, "text": "I have a long dryer vent run through a finished ceiling space, so keeping it clean is a better option than having to open up the vent pipe.  I used this&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Gardus-RLE202-LintEater-10-Piece-Rotary-Dryer-Vent-Cleaning-System/dp/B0014CN8Y8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System</a>&nbsp;with the&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Gardus-R3203612-LintEater-12-Foot-Extension-Kit/dp/B001652LO6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Gardus R3203612 LintEater 12-Foot Extension Kit</a>.  I used about 18' of the tubing to reach through my dryer vent run.\n\nIn the end I pushed out a giant lump of lint that was choking the vent and slowing my drying times.\n\nThe pieces of tubing connected together really easily.  I tightened them together with pliers and tape to make sure they stayed connected the first time.  In the future I probably won't bother with the tape.  Running the tubing and auger in clockwise direction should keep the tubing together all of the time anyway.\n\nThe ends of the tubing is about 3/8\" in diameter.  If your drill chuck is exactly 3/8\", it might be tricky to fit in the end.  I did my work with a&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Milwaukee-2410-22-M12-12-Volt-3-8-Inch-Drill-Driver/dp/B002EEP4VK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Milwaukee 2410-22 M12 12-Volt 3/8-Inch Drill/Driver</a>&nbsp;and it fits easily.  On its lowest power and speed settings, the Linteater was just fine augering out 18' of dryer vent.\n\nThe tubing slid in and out of the vent without a problem.\n\nThe kit comes with adapters to attach a shop vac or leaf blower to create airflow in the vent while your auger brush is loosening up the lint.  I didn't try those out at all, but it seems like a good idea.\n\nIt did the job, and I didn't have any problems with it.  I'd recommend it to others.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3362, "id": 108745, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 443, "len_tokens": 544, "text": "Finding a small 2.5 cubic foot compact refrigerator is not as easy as it sounds.  And finding one with a stainless steel-style door is even harder.  This was literally the only selection on Amazon that met those specifications.\n\nWhile I had not heard of the brand before (SPT), I ordered this as replacement for my aging 2.5 cubic foot fridge.  I am mostly pleased with the purchase.  It is compact enough to fit under a desk, and is much quieter than the previous model it is replacing.  It is also substantially lighter weight, although at around 48 pounds (shipping), it isn't exactly a feather-weight either,\n\nAt this size and price point, you don't get many features.  There's no interior light (but you don't need one anyway), and the freezer compartment is very small - just big enough for a small ice cube tray.  But as a second fridge or for an office or game room, it's more likely to hold sodas, beer and snacks anyway.  However, there are three features that are an improvement over my old compact fridge:\n\n1) Convenient Temperature Control - My old fridge had one setting - \"ON\".  The SPT has a dial on the inside (on the upper right corner) that allows you to select the level of cold you need.  Nice.\n\n2)  Adjustable Feet - There are two screw-type adjustable leveling feet, so the fridge will accommodate just about any minor irregularities on your floor.\n\n3)  Mostly Solid Back - Older models often exposed the coils, but the SPT has a mostly closed case design.  There is an opening to allow air circulation around the compressor and to access the electrical cord.\n\nI would have given this 5 stars, but ultimately deducted 1 star for the somewhat twitchy process of reversing the door. It ships with a right-hand swing, but you can reverse that by moving the hinges to the other side.  This could have been designed a little better and takes some fiddling to get everything to fit just right.  Part of this entails removing plastic caps covering the mounting holes on the reverse side, which are tricky to pry out.  Use a small blade screwdriver and take care not to scratch the cabinet.  One of those plastic caps broke fairly easily and I feared I'd have to glue it in place.  But SPT took the added - and much appreciated - step on including an extra packet of plastic caps for just such an issue.  Well done.\n\nIn short, this SPT fills a rather specific need in a simple and relatively inexpensive fashion.  I look forward to using this little fridge for a long time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3363, "id": 393407, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 266, "len_tokens": 510, "text": "I bought those filters for my&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Honeywell-HCM-6009-Cool-Moisture-Console-Humidifier/dp/B000G0LDRI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Honeywell HCM-6009 Cool Moisture Console Humidifier</a>. The original HW filter replacement costs 14.98$ at the time of this review (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Honeywell-HC-14V1-Replacement-Wicking-Humidifier-Filter-Filter-E/dp/B000AO1G72/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Honeywell HC-14V1 Replacement Wicking Humidifier Filter, Filter E</a>) for one filter while this did product cost 20.99$ for x2 filters (so a 9$ saving over the cost of 2 x OEM part). How does it perform? Bottom line is that I think it is a great replacement and I do no see a difference in performance.\nA few things to remember:\n- before use, and because it is pressed flat, wet it and place it in the groove as designed\n- once a week, flip it upside down (same recommendation for any filter - it will make the wear even)\n- I recommend adding this product (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Holmes-Humidifier-Bacteriostat-H1709PDQ-U/dp/B000BRKYU8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Holmes Humidifier Bacteriostat, H1709PDQ-U</a>) to the water - cheap and goes along way (I still have the bottle I purchased 2 years ago and it is far from being over). This will avoid mold forming and te only thing that will wear your filters is hard water.\n\nThe EOM filter lasted forever for me (3 months with proper care as indicated above and it made the winter/dry season). I have been using this for only 2 weeks now but will post later if there is a longevity problem (some customer did tend to indicate problems with the reinforced aluminum mesh oxidizing and/or the filter disintegrating but just like the original part, I have not seen any of this happening yet).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3364, "id": 87111, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3365, "id": 465481, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 465, "len_tokens": 557, "text": "This range has been in use for about a month using natural gas.  Installation went smoothly because we paid particular attention to measurements provided in the online installation manual, so it fits snugly and looks great in place.  In use our range gives off a very slight odor, probably due to gas combustion.  It is easily removed by our vent fan, but something we didn't have to do with the electric range.\n\nMoving pans around is easy enough on the 'continuous' grates.  The cast iron on this range is heavier than on some other brands we looked at, but not so heavy that you have a hard time removing it to clean the black-enameled underpan, especially when compared to the smooth schott-ceram surface on our former electric range.  We like the different burner BTU ratings and use the burners accordingly, with good control over the heat level.  The controls are easy to read and set.\n\nUsing the oven features is not 100% intuitive so we found a little time spent with the owner's manual helped us use it better.\nFor example using the Preheat feature means the oven is up to temperature in just a few minutes.  Compared to our former electric oven it cooks at about a 25 degree lower setting.  We haven't used the convection feature, clean or broil yet so I can't comment on those.\n\nAnytime the oven is in use a fan blows room temperature air out the front beneath the control panel.  My guess is that this keeps the electronics in the control panel cool.  It is a noticeable amount of air, but we don't find the sound bothersome, as some have reported.  It continues for some time after the oven is turned off.\n\nThe lowest oven shelf is attached to the door so that when the door is opened, anything on that shelf is pulled forward and easily accessed to, for example, check a cake for doneness or baste a ham.  However, when we were baking sweet potatoes some gooey juice dripped down onto the oven floor and this shelf connection made it more difficult to clean up.  We have used the split rack feature for roasting turkey and found it easy to remove and replace the section.  The oven window is very large, and there are two bright lamps inside.\n\nWe were surprised that it did not include a broiler pan, something we felt should come with an appliance in this price range.  It does have a removable wire rack \"shelf\" for the warming drawer, effectively doubling the amount of some foods you can keep warm, rolls for example.\n\nWe like the look as well as the performance and overall quality of this range.  It has exceeded our expectations and is a huge improvement over our electric range.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3366, "id": 478360, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 406, "len_tokens": 524, "text": "Two years after purchasing Bosch's \"stainless\" steel \"rust-free\" dishwasher with a \"lifetime warranty\" against rust, we discovered... rust. It was in a very specific area, where the metal filter attaches to the interior tub. We called Bosch and were told that it was our fault, that it was our water, our dishwasher soap, our flatware--anything but the dishwasher. We persisted, explaining that we use a water softener and a reverse-osmosis system and that our water is no worse, and probably a bit better, than average. Furthermore, if it was merely our water, then we would expect to see rust everywhere. As for our dishwasher soap--well--it comes from Costco, and I'm sure they'd take exception to Bosch's claim that it promotes rust. We offered our own theory, which is that the metal used in the filter is disimilar to the metal in the tub, resulting in a galvanic reaction and corrosion to the metals. Basically, the two different metals, pressed together in an aqueous environment, results in a battery. But for Bosch to admit this would be to admit a design flaw--the sort of admission that leads to a class-action lawsuit. We already know Bosch uses a variety of \"stainless\" metals. For example, the metal used on the door is a very inferior grade of stainless steel that is easily streaked and spotted. And the way you can tell is to use a magnet. If the magnet sticks then it's ferrous metal and more prone to staining.\n\nThis section is taken right out of the manual: \"Stainless Steel TallTub: A rust-free, hygienic interior surface with a lifetime warranty.\"\n\nYet Bosch claims they don't actually guarantee the tub to be rust-free; they only warrant against \"rust-through\", meaning you will have to live with the rust until it eats a hole through the metal--until water starts pouring into some part of the dishwasher where it doesn't belong (hopefully not endangering you, your family, or your home, in the process). When you consider that Bosch basically expects you to use their rusting appliance until there's a catastrophic failure, you realize that the advertisements, selling points, and sales pitches regarding \"rust-free\" and \"lifetime warranty\" are all fraudulent.\n\nBosch offered no remedies and suggested that the rust can be removed (on our dime, of course). The problem is that even if we use a rust-removing product, the rust will return in time, because the source of the rust--a design flaw--remains.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3367, "id": 397681, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 465, "len_tokens": 565, "text": "First of all, I would like to congratulate the seller for sending this item in such a timely fashion.  It arrived very quickly and what is more, it was extremely easy to carry home from work. After traveling on public transportation, I have to walk about a half a mile and though the package was slightly cumbersome, I never found it to be heavy.\n\nFor my first pic, I unpacked the contents of the package.  There you will see 13 tubes, 6 fixing bars, 2 dryer racks, 4 running wheels, 1 unit holder, 1 dryer unit, and 1 cloth cover, along with an instruction manual. There are no extra tools required, which, in my humble opinion, is amazing!  It is quite a simple project, even for people who are not very handy (like myself)!  Even with my lack of skill, lack of familiarity with the dryer unit, and rookie mistakes, it took me less than 40 minutes to assemble.\n\nIn my second pic, you will see the assembled unit.  It is slightly over 58 inches in height (as shown in my third pic), a little over 27 inches in length (as shown in my fourth pic), and quite close to 18 inches in depth (as shown in my fifth pic).\n\nMy sixth pic shows the control knob on the face of the dryer.  As you can see, it features a timer which offers up to 180 minutes of drying time.  My seventh pic shows the unit, complete with cover.  The drying vent fits through a circular hole in the bottom of the cover, and there are 12 venting holes on the top.\n\nFor my test load, I washed and dried 3 cable knit sweaters and 3 summer dresses (as shown in my eighth pic).  I am happy to say that the dresses were pretty much dry in half an hours time.  They were still slightly damp at the hemline because, though they are not long enough to touch the bottom of the unit cover, the hemlines still were not high enough to fully benefit from the heat which rises to the top of the unit and is dispersed through the upper vents.\n\nThe sweaters were in the unit for 1 1/2 hours, but still emerged slightly damp.  I noticed that the sweaters were damper on one side than on the other.  I therefore recommend that you rotate the hangers every half hour or so to encourage consistent drying of your clothing.\n\nMy conclusion is that this dryer definitely works, although it is much more efficient when used on short, light weight clothing.  I recommend it to anyone who has space in their home to keep it.\n\nDisclosure:  I purchased this item at a discounted rate in exchange for an honest and unbiased review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3368, "id": 88335, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3369, "id": 45366, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 484, "len_tokens": 558, "text": "I bought this NewAir AI-100R portable Ice Maker in March 2011 as a birthday gift to my husband. He likes to drink an ice water or ice with juice all the time.\nAt the very first couple times of using that icemaker, I had to spill the newly made ice cylinders, because they smelled like plastic, but after that we did not have any problem with the taste of the ice. In 1 month after I bought the ices maker, we had some important family event and had to have a constant flow of the people in the apartment. For a week we had about 60-80 visiting people per day. For all that time my new Ice maker was working and making ice non-stop from 7:00 AM till 11:00 PM.  I was really glad that I was able to make enough ice for all our visitors and was proud to demonstrate them my new ice maker.  And I think that I saved so much money by making my own ice instead of buying it at the supermarket!\nIce maker was working fine every time I need some ice since I bought it (for 9 months already).\nIf you have guests, you just have to start making ice in advance and store fresh ice in the freezer. I use clean plastic bags to store fresh ice.  If you are expecting a large group of people, it is better to start making ice a day before the event to store enough.  Ice maker makes some noise, but it is mild and does not bother anyone.\n The freshly made ice is wet, and it sticks to each other at the freezer. I have a habit to stir ice cubes in the plastic bag to separate them from each other after it was sitting in the freezer for 15-20 min.\n  At the hot summer time, when you start ice maker after it was off for certain amount of time, the 1st portion of the ice cylinders will be very wet, thin and flimsy and it is better to dump it back to the water tank. After that there is no problem.\n  Minor inconvenience is that even though machine has a red light on to indicate that there is no more water at the water tank, there are always some water left at the water tank. I always must spill out unused water.  The removal of the water is done by the little pipe at the bottom of the ice maker that has covered by a metal cap (attached to the machine) and a little tiny plastic plug (unattached to anything and very easy to drop). If you will loose that tiny plug, then you will have a big problem. Better to be careful and do not drop and loose it.\n  We love our ice maker and its red color adds a cheerful atmosphere to my kitchen.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3370, "id": 329066, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 430, "len_tokens": 519, "text": "Fantastic! This puts out more moisture than the Honeywell one that shipped with my humidifier EVER did!\nThe lowest the water level in the tank ever got down previously was 1/2 full,  running at full speed for a couple of hours before bed (I then reduce the speed down by one click while we are asleep) So 8 hours and it used half a tank.\nLately after a few months of use (ok, five)  the level was hardly going down at all (I didn't know you were supposed to switch the filter out so regularly, because at a cursory glance mine looked fine)\nSo I decided to buy a new filter (confession time now)  YUK! YUK! YUK! when I went to switch the filter out and looked closely at the old filter I discovered some white webs of mould. I am so grossed out! I will switch these filters out very regularly now and add the tank cleaner also. I am so disgusted in myself for not paying more attention, and I haven't quite recovered yet! I keep thinking about all those mould spores in the air.\nSo if you are new to humidifiers like I was, keep a close eye on your filter, cause the white webs are actually hard to see unless you look closely (shudder)\nAnyhow, I have used this new filter for two nights now and both nights the water level was actually down to almost empty (maybe a couple of cups left in the bottom if that)\nOnly thing is that it might be TOO much humidity, as the carpet around the humidifier is damp now. I have it on the floor near the bed. I wouldn't put this on, or too close to wooden furniture! I am going to need to put something under the humdifier (its probably better to get it off the floor anyhow)\n But I like that I can adjust it down so it's even quieter than ever, while it's pushing out more moisture than ever!\nA note on the review who mentioned the metal - this filter looks exactly like the photo. No metal! I think he/she reviewed the wrong item. Or maybe another seller shipped the wrong item. Anyhow, this filter is much thicker than the original but other than that, it looks the same.\nNew filter, tank cleaner and more diligence, my humidifier is now working better than it ever did.\nOh, and I purchased the Honeywell replacement wick (non-third party) to compare. It hasn't arrived yet but I WILL compare the two and review that one too.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3371, "id": 504320, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 494, "len_tokens": 591, "text": "Where to start let's see... I am only writing this to prevent people from the headaches I had to deal with. I purchased this freezer because it was supposed to be commercial grade, but this freezer does not even stand up to regular residential use. The first one I purchased last year and about 2 months into using it, the freezer started to make a loud rattling sound part way into the motor running. It sounded like someone was using an industrial compressor next door to us. I called the manufacturer for help and was given some names of repair men; I called a few but only had 1 response. When he finally came to look at the freezer, it was not making the sound at that point so he made some \"fan adjustments\" and told me to call him if it kept doing it. 20 min after he left it started again, so I called him and he never returned my call nor came back. Frustrated with the situation I called costco explained what happened and they picked up the faulty freezer and I purchased a second freezer thinking it was just a fluke; however last Friday I ran into another problem. I came home from work that night to hear the freezer making 2 funny clicking sounds every 10 min or so, similar to the sound it makes when going into auto defrost. I opened the freezer and found the temp sitting around 28, way above 0. I was livid; I cranked up the freezer to 10 to see if it would make a difference. I checked about an hour later and there was no difference, the freezer was not getting colder, only the fan was running. It was now 10:30pm and had no choice but to try and save whatever was salvageable from the freezer. I stuck what I could in my little freezer and tried calling 3 other people to see what space they had. I ran around till 1am putting things into friends freezers, but still lost around 500$ in product. The one shocker I found when I was emptying out the freezer was a melted plastic lid to a glass jar I had on the top shelf of the freezer up against the stainless steel plate. How does something melt in the freezer is my question. Third time will not be a charm; I will be looking for another make all together. I later tried to contact Electrolux/Frigidaire to let them know about the faulty products and this was their response, and by the way their warranty gets them out of covering anything:\n\"Thank you for contacting Electrolux Appliances.\nWe have sent you the manual explaining what the warranty does not cover. Please find it attached and kindly read page 11. If your unit is not yet fixed, please contact under warranty the following servicer to fixe it: Transglobal 1-800-360-2742.\nOnce more thank you for contacting Electrolux Appliances.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3372, "id": 234702, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 409, "len_tokens": 503, "text": "I bought my Neptune in 2001. In 2007 it refused to execute the spin cycle and go any further.\nA little web searching showed many people having had the same problem with these earlier generation Neptunes. One link took me to an auction listing. Apparently, this problem is so prevalent that a kit to remedy this break-down is widely sold.\n\nAs I rememba: The kit I bought supplied the wax motor and a few resistors, or something. The wax motor is a solenoid type switch that locks the door before the spin cycle. A safety thing, so your brat kid don't open the door and throw in Putty-Tat as the drum is turning a hundred miles per hour. When the wax motor blows, it may take a few circuit board elements with it.\nI suppose an unscrupulous repairman can charge you for a brand new control board, but just replace the blown resistors on your old board.\nI suppose an ethical repairman would explain your options, along with the risks, and allow you to choose the plan of attack. Maybe new parts is the best choice if you are paying him big bucks for his labor.\n\nAs for me, I bought the parts and did the work myself. It cost me less than $40 to get us back on the wash. After reading an online repair estimate, paying someone to fix it wasn't an option. I didn't think the washer had much more life to it. Also, at that time I was gainfully employed and I would have purchased a brand new washer than risk throwing good money after bad.\n\nIf you own an old Neptune, you'd be smart to replace the wax motor before it goes bad and blows parts on your control board.\nIf your washer has stopped working, check the control board for burnt stuff. Don't replace only those resistors. Also replace the wax motor before turning on the washer again because a bad wax motor will kill the new resistors, just like it killed the old ones.\n\nIt's now July, 2012 in this 2-people household and my Neptune keeps on spinning.\n\nUpdate 5-2016: Mr. Neptune is still making soup. Though, the washer's hot water supply hasn't worked in years. I haven't investigated. We just wash everything with cold. The wifey is chomping at the bit for this washer to explode so she can go buy something frivolous in crimson red with a built-in TV set.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3373, "id": 270826, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 447, "len_tokens": 552, "text": "I was SO excited to receive this little thing. We live in a very small apartment and were spending a lot of money at the laundromat, considering the costs of washing, drying, time, and commuting (the only useable laundromat was about 15-20 minutes a day). We were spending approximately 45.00 a week on the laundromat, all told. I ordered this model after reading reviews and looking up reviews on YouTube so I could see exactly how it worked.\nUsed the machine immediately upon arrival (it arrived very quickly...about 4 business days). The first few washes did create a \"plastic\" smell but this odor did not bleed into the clothes. I think it was the same as breaking in a new coffee machine. After several washes now, the smell is gone. I did find it easier to put it in a stationary location, on top of a shelf bought specifically to accommodate the gravity draining system. This works best for me and I use a bucket to fill and empty it. Usually two buckets full does it, but sometimes 2 1/2. I have it just outside my bathroom so this is very simple and easier for me. Don't have to move the machine and having it elevated is much easier.\nI am giving it four stars only because of a couple concerns. When I contacted the manufacturer about my worries over the lint filter, I got a response within minutes and they asked for my name, order number, date ordered, etc. When I responded with the information, they responded immediately with a photo of the lint filter to make sure they had the right one. I sent a simple \"Yep! That's it!\" and immediately was informed I would be receiving a spare to be shipped out the next day. A follow-up email was sent the next day, letting me know they were sending TWO extra filters. No charge. Make sure you register.\nI also highly recommend buying the mesh laundry bags (various sizes). I've washed a full queen sheet set: top & bottom sheets, 2 pillow cases and 2 pillow shams. Discovered the fitted sheet will \"catch\" other items in the elastic corners so this would be an example of when I'd use a mesh bag.\n\nPros:\nVery light weight\nExtremely powerful wash cycle\nVery effective spin cycle\nGreat price\nperfect for small apartment\nEXCEPTIONAL Customer support.\n\nCons:\nNo delicate or variable speed wash\nProbable fading of clothing (that's how powerful the wash cycle is)\nA bit chintzy lint filter that began to flake after just a few washes\nHoses are thin and need to be handled carefully\nHave to watch out for lint.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3374, "id": 466238, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 488, "len_tokens": 597, "text": "We made this unfortunate purchase 14 months ago, after searching through the Consumer Reports ratings and evaluations.  They (CR) gave this dishwasher rave reviews for function, quietness, reliability and energy conservation. They downplayed the smaller interior as \"insignificantly smaller\".  That all sounded good, so in spite of the grotesque price, we figured that it would amortize over a longer life, and heck, who doesn't want to save energy when it is feasible.\n\nThe ONLY positive thing I can say about this POC is that it IS quiet.\n\nThe interior layout is so goofy that it is virtually impossible to put a reasonable load of dishes into the baskets. The idiot that designed the interior must have been using doll-house dishes for sizing.  It took two runs to process the same load of dishes that my previous Whirlpool would wash (CLEAN) and dry (DRY and SPOTLESS) in a single run.  And it required 134 minutes to process one load.\n\nAnd you have to keep feeding it this expensive Jet Dry rinse agent, or else you get a soapy film on the dishes, complete with a soapy taste as well.  And the dishes are NEVER dry when the cycle is done.\n\nThere are options for shorter cycles. Because we pre-rinse our dishes, the short wash cycle got the dishes adequately clean (but not as clean as the longer cycle). The problem is that at the end of the short cycle, the dishes are soaking wet, and if you let them dry in the dishwasher by evaporation, they end up horribly spotted.\n\nThe alleged \"automatic cleanliness detector\" detected NOTHING; there was no difference. The \"detector\" cycle also ran the full 134 minutes. And all of that in spite of the fact that I have the hot water which feeds the dishwasher set at 150.\n\nSo I wish some energy wizard would explain to me how it is saving energy to require twice as many cycles, each of which is longer than my Whirlpool, to do a given load of dishes and cookware, and not do them as well as the Whirlpool, with the additional requirement of frequently adding some energy-intensive chemical to the machine.\n\nBased on the horrible experiences other owners have reported with respect to Bosch warranty support and repair service, I can say I am very thankful that this thing managed not to break in the 14 months we used it.\n\nBottom line, I hated the machine to the point I just would not use it often, and when my wife asked me PLEASE, for Christmas, PLEASE get rid of this thing, I understood and sympathized completely. So Dec. 23, while she was out shopping for Christmas dinner prep, I tore out this eurocrap tragedy and installed a new Whirlpool, which although it is NOT as quiet, it does its job remarkably well, and at roughly half the price.\n\nSuffice it to say that she was EXTREMELY pleased.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3375, "id": 57588, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 473, "len_tokens": 564, "text": "I religiously clean out my dryer's lint trap between loads, but a few weeks ago my old Kenmore dryer suddenly decided to take a leisurely approach to clothes drying, taking almost 3 hours for one load. I took apart my machine and suctioned out every lint ball I could find with my vacuum, then cleaned out the hose and vent as far as my vacuum could reach, but it still refused to cooperate. I figured there had to be a blockage somewhere in the vent and decided to get the LintEater based on the reviews. And I'm so glad I did.\n\nMy vent is probably around 15-18 feet from dryer to the outside of my house, but I opted not to buy the extension kit because a) I was hoping that the blockage was within the LintEater's 12-foot reach, and b) I didn't want to spend the extra money if this thing didn't work.\n\nOn my first attempt, I attached the brush to one rod and secured it with electrical tape (I read other reviews about the rods breaking or disconnecting in the vent, so I made sure to take precautions). After snaking it through the vent, I pulled it back and couldn't believe how much lint came out - almost a pillowcase full. I added two more rods (secured with more electrical tape), went back in, and felt a little resistance. When I pulled back again, tons of lint and pieces of a birds nest fell out - thank god there were no birds or eggs inside. Still no air flow though. I wound up working the vent from both sides, with all four rods, then connected my dryer again, but still no air flow. So, with the dryer running, I went back outside and tried again. This time when I pulled all four rods out, I was blasted with an explosion of lint confetti. And even though I was cloaked in a dust cloud, I couldn't have been happier. My dryer is now back to its 30-45 minute drying speed.\n\nTIPS:\n- Electrical tape works wonders in ensuring that things don't detach inside your vent\n- Don't attach more than two rods together BEFORE snaking them into the vent - attach additional rods to ones that are already in the vent\n- If you have a longer vent but are on the fence about the extenders, try working the LintEater through both sides of your vent - it might take a little longer, but it worked for me\n- If you have a cordless drill with a lower torque rating (like mine), your drill may struggle a bit when cleaning with four rods attached, ultimately leading to the battery draining and you having to pick up where you left off the next day (like me - it's all good though!)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3376, "id": 518378, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 492, "len_tokens": 566, "text": "If you are used to the usual under $100 hoods, the first thing you realize right out of the box, is that this is a different beast. For one, it is really heavy! It looks and feels well built. As for its main purpose, it delivers rather well, especially considering that it was installed on an existing 6 inch vent instead of the recommended 8 inch. I've had it for about a month and apart from when I had my restaurant, I've never had a hood that worked this well.\nNow for the gritty part. You are not going to be able to install this on an IKEA kitchen... unless you are a very talented handy person. Since you need to cut such a big hole in the bottom of the cabinet, it totally compromises the integrity of an IKEA cabinet as you have to remove the fasteners holding the cabinet together. I find it amazing that Xtreme Air does not take in account the number of people who have IKEA kitchens today. The installation was a nightmare and I had to totally modify my IKEA cabinet, shortening it, reinforcing it and find creative ways to fasten the hood. I also had to shorten the doors and opted to buy stainless steel doors that matched the hood and other appliances in the kitchen.\nXtreme Air suggests mounting the front of the hood with screws and resting on the bottom of the cabinet. Well since I had to make a huge hole in that bottom part, what was left was a thin piece of particle board that could never hold the hood in place without breaking, even though I doubled it. So I used a combination of supplied and different brackets to attach the hood to the vertical left and right sides of the cabinet. The back is suposed to be fastened to the wall but that will only work properly if the studs are perfectly positioned with the mounting holes in the hood. Which they weren't... So, in modifying my cabinet, I had to add a solid plank of wood to the back. I was able to bolt the middle part of the solid wood to a stud and in turn, the hood is bolted to the solid wood and into the wall.\nLast and maybe least, the color of the LEDs is horrendous! It's that cold, not bright enough LED color spectrum of early LEDs. It looks like Xtreme Air got a good deal on a bunch of these old LEDs and they are using those until they run out. If that is the case, it really cheapens Xtreme Air's image.\nSo, after a month or so, and now that it is mounted (and still holding), I am still happy with it. But if I had to do it again, I would get a different Xtreme Air model that does not force me to cut the bottom of my cabinet out.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3377, "id": 38980, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 399, "len_tokens": 501, "text": "Ok, First of all, like a couple of the other RECENT reviewers have said, disregard the old reviews. The reviews prior to 2010 need to be taken down because this is NOT the same product.\n\nThis thing arrived in a box in a box, 100lbs. Shipping took about 4 days. My groomsman bought me this off my wedding registry so I was astounded when I got it. Everything comes packed nice.\n\nPROS-\nIT SERVES ICE COLD BEER\nDirections very easy to follow and put together.\nFits 2 5.5 gal kegs (if you want to convert into dual tap) and the normal 13gal kegs just fine.\nComes with a 2.5lb tank. I had a spare 5 gal tank and it fits in there with both kegs also just fine.\nDrip tray, tower and door are very solid (the door is swappable to left to right also)\nThe tap handle is very stout and springy, which is good when my gigantic milled aluminum handle does not feel like its going to break it.\n\nCONS-\nIt does not cook bacon\nThe regulator is very finiky, the pressure on it goes from 0-150 which its like a 1/150th of a turn to move it a couple PSI up. I keep the keg right around 10lbs to keep the foam down, pours a little slow... but perfect head.\nAs others have said, it comes with a gaggle of spare parts, which is cool if it breaks something ever, but kind of confusing at first.\n\nTIPS-\nThe tower does not say to install the rubber washer which leaves the tower a little loose but it does come with one. It was VERY hard to get on, I took some silicon spray and wet both sides of the washer to get it loose and was able to push down hard enough on the tower to get it to set. Now its stout and keeps cold air in.\nI leave the temperature dial at about 3/4 which puts my beer right at 34 degrees. I had it set to 32 degrees which the dial was almost all the way up and it froze the beer line to the tower.\n\nFor the price of this thing, you cannot go wrong, Im exited to try to get it converted to hold 2 5.5 gal kegs and have a couple of different brews. I will post back when I do!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3378, "id": 149742, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 452, "len_tokens": 590, "text": "This review also appears attached to the related, green package \"Silent Feet - Anti-Vibration Pads for Washing Machines and Dryers\" (not \"Anti-Walk\"), as a 5-star review, and as a Comment in response to reviews by ...\n  \"J. Littrell\" ... \"Timothy M. Watson 'TimW'\" ... \"Milton R. Wolf\" ... \"samgabecassie\".\n\nFull links to important Consumer Reports (CR) video information appears in those Comments. Here, because Amazon apparently does not allow links to appear in reviews, I indicate how the CR video Links to can be accessed by way of google search:\n\nPer information on Consumer Reports, the first guard against vibration is the purchase of a washing machine that has built in vibrational dampening that is effective.\n\n[ Video Link deleted by Amazon. Google: \" laundry--cleaning/stopping-vibrating \", and go to first hit, from Consumer Reports, and see the video, etc. ]\n\nIt is likely that the many 4-5 star reviews versus the set of 1 star reviews here at Amazon indicate that the Silent Feet product works reasonably well with many models, across a range of lessor vibration issues -- but cannot effectively mitigate vibration in the cases of the worst designed machines. (If some of the Amazon reviews are accurate, the product may indeed worsen the effect in some unfortunate cases.)\n\nThis \"works for some, not for others\" is a reasonable, technically grounded explanation of the data, and also explains why Consumer Reports (CR) data does not align with Amazon reviewer experience.\n\nAmazon reviewers are testing a range of different machines with different degrees of vibration, while CR apparently only tested the single worst vibrating washing machine in its test of Silent Feet and related products.\n\n[ Video Link deleted by Amazon. Google: \" Inside Consumer Reports Test Labs: Reviewing antivibration pads \", and go to first hit, from Consumer Reports, and see the video, etc. ]\n\nKudos/cheers to Vibration Solutions LLC (producer of the Silent Feet product) for offering refunds in the cases where their products are not effective.\n\nI would be a more solid fan if they also offered full web links to all of the CR information on their tests (and not just the positive seeming), and if they would perform their own accelerometer tests, like CR, on a series of at least 3-5 washers with unbalanced loads, on a mock standard subfloor-and-joist station (worst case, like a 2nd floor condo installation) .\n\nThat is, for highest consumer regard, Vibration Solution LLC (Silent Feet mfr.) needs to offer their own study and analysis (indicating the models for which their products don't work), or at very least fully report the CR analysis available, even though seemingly negative, along with explanation of the sort I offer here.\n\nProf D, product owner", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3379, "id": 57517, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 531, "len_tokens": 588, "text": "Let me say a few words about this awesome product...\n\nI purchased this since my dryer was no longer drying to the degree that it once was. We had our heating element go out on our brand new dryer after about 2 years of usage and we initially attributed that to a fluke lemon heating element. No big deal. Then when the new element went in, we thought that it was much weaker than our old one even though it was the same thing. Our clothes would get hot, but not really ever dry.\n\nWe have dogs, so there is a lot of lint and dog hair that ends up in our lint trap or passing through the exhaust. I bought this product because I had a suspicion that we had a buildup...and boy was I right!\n\nThe instructions first tell you to check the outside vent for blockages. The way that these vents should work (or the way mine works at least) is that there is a flap that opens when the dryer blows and shuts when the dryer shuts. That part worked fine for me, but there was a metal grate in front of the exhaust that had a good couple of inches of solid buildup. One side of the clog was even starting to darken as if it was toasting. The instructions in this manual say to remove this grate and I did.\n\nNow I could have stopped there and my dryer would have probably still worked 100% better than before, but I continued with the instructions. My exhaust is on my roof and my roof is steep, so I decided to run the rods from the inside. The first thing to do is prop the exhaust flap open. Done. I then used the shop vac attachment and ran the rod through the small hole on the attachment. With the vac on, I added the poles until I reached the top of the vent. First I will say that the flexibility of the poles is perfect. They are sturdy enough to no collapse, but flexible enough to round corners and move pretty easily through the duct. My duct has an immediate 90 degree turn towards the roof and it handled it without issue.\n\nWhen it was all said and done, my shop vac was halfway full of lint! This is in a 4 year old house! As a caveat, there is no telling how long the grate was blocking the airflow and I would guess that caused a lot of buildup further down the duct.\n\nI even used the smaller, long brush on the inside of the lint catcher in the front of the dryer and pulled up quite a bit of lint there. I was really quit impressed! I washed the guest bed sheets and they came out dry without any extra runs! This thing should pay off from the saved electricity pretty quickly, plus I can use it over and over again and loan to friends.\n\nI was so shocked by how much lint came out, I had my neighbor come over and check it out! Guess who has this kit at his house right now?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3380, "id": 456761, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 419, "len_tokens": 530, "text": "Wow.  I wish I read these reviews before I wasted my money and effort on this thing.  I cook a lot but live in a small place.  This replaced a 20 inch range that was about 50 years old and still going strong but some support parts had rusted out and we couldn't find replacements which was causing structural problems in the stove.  This looked nice when it arrived.  Then the problems began.  None of the coils were attached quite right so sometimes burners wouldn't work, but then the next moment they would, often causing late meals; a campfire would have been more dependable.  My husband tightened the burners.  Sometimes that helped.  Then after 10 months the bake element broke.  We called the appliance shop we got this from and they tried to order a new one.  Avanti's policy is that a repairman has to look at it before they'll send a replacement part.  Waited a few days for the repairman and he confirmed what we already knew and ordered the new part saying it would be in in a week, but usually sooner.  (Did I mention I bake a lot, like 2 or 3 times a day?  And I don't own and won't use a microwave.)  So TWO weeks later the appliance store receives the part- I had called several times to make sure they hadn't forgotten me, but Avanti really didn't care to spend the money to make anything arrive sooner.  In the end I was without my oven for 3 weeks.  My kids were REALLY sick of fried food since that was the only way I could cook.  Moments after the new bake element was installed the light in the oven went out.  My husband tried to replace it.  It broke as he removed it.  With a little more effort he got it out.  It's some obscure light bulb that he couldn't identify.  That was also under warranty, but I'm yet to receive the new one.  Oh, and the enamel is chipping too...I've NEVER chipped a range before!  Thankfully, in the meantime I've found the replacement parts for my old stove.  When this dies, likely soon, I'm put my vintage stove back in place.  Also, I was in the market for a new stove for our new home we're building.  Found a beautiful vintage one on Craigslist cheap, works well, kept it out of the dump and didn't promote further filling the landfill with junk like this.  Do I really have to give it one star??!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3381, "id": 88119, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3382, "id": 53766, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 342, "len_tokens": 504, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R1Y4ZGEZ9LV2NK\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D1IW1ktmhNS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81MeA1A-2kS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;All I can say is ....WOW!! I wish I had done this sooner. After exhausting but fun research, scouring the internet learning about induction, I finally pulled the trigger. I cannot tell you how pleased I am, ESPECIALLY with the clean up. My old gas cook top was black and was such a chore to clean up. My new induction top wipes off effortlessly because the top itself does not get hot, therefore spill overs do not bake on. The top does get hot eventually directly under the pan because it has a hot pan sitting on it.\nNow for something different than the other reviews. My home was wired with a 30 amp circuit to the cook top and research will say that you will need 40 amps. This particular top will only let you have two burners on \"Boost\" at the same time. To max out the rated amperage you must have all the burners on high at the same time. When you see how hot and fast that really is... I SERIOUSLY doubt you will ever need that. Induction is so efficient, that most of our cooking is done on #3 to #5. The scale is 1-10. The higher settings are for frying and boiling. I don't have the need to have 4 skillets frying or 4 pots of water boiling at the same time and I don't think I ever will. Anyway.... before considering calling the electrician, I decided to try it awhile first and see if we trip the breaker. If we do, and it becomes a problem, then we can deal with increasing the wire size and changing the breaker to a 40 amp. So far we have NEVER tripped any breakers and the top works absolutely flawless. DO NOT let the fact that you have a 30 amp service steer you away from considering an induction top. I suggest trying it first, THEN see if you need to increase your breaker size.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3383, "id": 212324, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 264, "len_tokens": 519, "text": "small part of a long story but ultimately successful repair.... washer was knocking during spin, and like most people I thought it was the bearings. I ordered all 3 parts and replaced them even though they looked fine... but it was the stem of the spider that was rusted at the base and needed replacing. I ordered this part, which would have fit perfectly, except that the screws holding the old spider in the drum would spin but not back out. Just too much gunk in the screw holes - could not unscrew or pull them out. So had to order the entire inner drum (found for <200 elsewhere), which included the spider already on.\n\nWhat I wish I knew before I took 10 hours to repair the washer, from start to finish, including time cleaning, and not including the time waiting for parts to be delivered:\n1. order bearings, all 3 parts - about 60\n2. order spider - about 60 (may as well, and hope that it comes out) OR EVEN BETTER order inner drum with spider&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/LG-Electronics-3045ER1006E-Washing-Machine-Inner-Tub-Drum-Assembly/dp/B00AUDA8R2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">LG Electronics 3045ER1006E Washing Machine Inner Tub Drum Assembly</a>\n3. order seal gasket between the two outer halves - about 10&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/LG-Electronics-4036ER4001B-Washing-Machine-Tub-Seal-Gasket/dp/B00AF7UQX4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">LG Electronics 4036ER4001B Washing Machine Tub Seal/Gasket</a>\n4. order rubber gasket - about 50 (was black and disgusting anyway, and yours probably is, too) - make sure you check the bottom to see if you have the one with the drain or without the drain, mine did not&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/LG-Electronics-4986ER0004G-Washing-Machine-Door-Bo/dp/B00AF7UY9U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">LG Electronics 4986ER0004G Washing Machine Door Bo</a>", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3384, "id": 65229, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 447, "len_tokens": 550, "text": "I purchased this kit and a 12' extension kit to clean the 21' from my dryer in the middle of my house to the outside vent. I had been avoiding using it, but the first day of fall begged for a project so yesterday I finally did it.  The results were as expected. The dryer vent system is now clean and the airflow from the dryer to the outside is at least 50% better.\n\nSome tips to using this product:\n\n Watch a couple of YouTube videos for 'LintEater' before you start.  It will give you a visual that the written directions just cannot.\n Read the written directions and then re-read them. You may have to make adjustments to the setup you use based upon your particular dryer and vent system.\n Use a leaf blower on the highest setting before you use the LintEater.  Blow from the pipe opening nearest the dryer to the outside by sticking the leaf blower inside the pipe and turning it on.  You'll be amazed by how much stuff flies out of the vent even before you use the LintEater product. Sort of a 'pre-clean' if you will.\n Gather the tools you'll need first.  For me that included a Phillips head screwdriver (to release the hose clamps on the dryer and vent pipe), leaf blower, two wrenches (to twist the two ends of the LintEater sticks together tightly), duct tape, a flashlight, and a shop vac.  Eye protection and a mask or bandana to cover your nose and mouth is also a good idea.\n Use small strips of duct tape around the connections between the sections of the LintEater. This will help prevent it from coming apart IN the pipe.\n Use your power drill on the lowest setting and go slowly, gently working it down the length of the pipe with short back n' forth motions.\n Always have your drill turning clockwise.  NEVER reverse it go to counterclockwise - even when pulling it out of the pipe.  This could cause the sections to come undone inside the pipe.\n Blow out the pipe with the leaf blower after using the LintEater to get fine particles out.\n When you are done, attach a clean dryer vent hose from your dryer to the outlet. Use your dryer's 'air' setting for a few minutes to continue to dislodge debris.\n\nNOTE: This product could also be used for the gutter downspout on your home.\n\nOverall, I'm very pleased with this product. If used properly it has the potential to be used for several years without the need for replacement. The product is high quality and easy to use.  Definitely a must-buy for home owners to prevent dryer fires.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3385, "id": 87999, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3386, "id": 121664, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 428, "len_tokens": 522, "text": "I have owned this dishwasher for 1 year this month and I despise it.  My 15 year old dishwasher was so noisy we couldn't run it while we were in the room but it did a good job of cleaning the dishes even if they hadn't been pre-rinsed.  We looked at many dishwashers and this one came highly recommended by the salesman and the sound rating was impressive.  That's where the positive part ends.  It is very quiet and I like that.  BUT in the year I've had it the control panel, light panel, and left side top shelf roller assembly have all had to be replaced.  We have not misused the machine and our children are all grown and out of the house so we can't even blame \"the kids.\"\n\nSome of the other negatives are as follows:\n\nThe racks are fine if all you have to load are plates and glasses or cups.  Serving bowls, small bowls, serving spoons, or odd shaped items do not fit well making loading a challenge.  The large grid spaces in the rack design allows the water spray to move items part way through the cycle and cause them to slip through the spaces and stop the spinning sprayer from turning.  Even when nothing is in the way, the dishes have to be pre-washed before loading to insure a clean wash.\n\nThe control panel is hard to read (black controls on black background) and is so sensitive just brushing against it may start a cycle or cancel and drain when it is washing.\n\nIf money was no object this dishwasher would be at the recycler with my old Maytag.  Since I can't afford to replace it now I am resigned to suffer in silence with this quiet beast!  I'd gladly take some noise over the frustration I have had with this \"quiet\" Kitchenaid.\n\n  February 2013 update...  Dishwasher is 2 years old now.\n\nRepair man was out again.  This time the sprayer below the top shelf was hitting it's mounting and would stop turning.  The dishes directly above the stopped sprayer were the only ones on that shelf getting washed.  The right side top shelf roller assembly broke and had to be replaced.\n\nI generally don't buy extended warranties but as the 1 yr factory warranty was running out, and because of the first year's history I purchased an extended warranty for 1 year.  I'm so glad I did.  This year I extended the warranty by 1 more year.  Maybe when it's time has run out I can justify buying another dishwasher.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3387, "id": 87687, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3388, "id": 88015, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3389, "id": 38956, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 365, "len_tokens": 503, "text": "I've read the other reviews on this unit, and I still picked one up. This isn't a book/batteries/small retail, and when buying it from Amazon, you should really be present at delivery to insure no damage befell your unit in shipping. I was home when this came, and I looked over the box before I let the UPS driver go. It came double boxed with quite a bit of foam and cardboard protecting the fridge, then more cardboard protecting the tower/bottle/regulator/etc inside. After attaching the casters and fully assembling the unit, I waited the recommended 8 hours (really, I waited overnight) before plugging it in. I let it run for another night to be sure it was cooling properly, and then - after I decided everything was fine, I filled the CO2 bottle and purchased my keg. Don't omit this series of steps. If you want a working kegorator, pay attention to the instructions that come with it. It's pretty simple.\n\n***UPDATE***\n\nMore than a year later, this kegorator is still going strong. I did have to replace the gas bottle it came with on the 2nd fill, which was pretty disappointing, but with that exception it's still working perfectly.\n\n***UPDATE 3/15/14***\n\nThis little Kegorator is still plugging right along. It's survived 2 moves, countless re-jiggerings (ball lock, Sankey D, U-International) multiple faucets (stout, perlick, standard) and 2 gas systems (nitro and co2) I've moved on, but this little guy will be finding himself a new home, still running as well as the day he came to mine.  Officially he can fit a 1/2bbl of most of the major brands (no banded kegs), he can also fit some of the weird euro stuff (Guinness is always a favorite) or he can fit 2 5-gallon cornies or torpedo kegs (1/6bbl commercial).\n\nThings to watch for - The tower likes to loosen up after a bit of time and has a bit of side to side play while pouring. This was pretty easily fixed with a sheet of rubber gasket material, cutting a washer to tighten up the fit.\n\n***UPDATE: 2/22/17***\n\nThis kegerator has found a new home, and is still dutifully cooling and serving beer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3390, "id": 88135, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3391, "id": 211226, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 402, "len_tokens": 503, "text": "I just got this washer.  I bought it for camping and boating, but since it arrived today I had to try it.  I decided to do a comparison.  I loaded my regular washer with my sons clothes (2 jeans size 34x34, 4 large t-shirts, 4 underwear, 1 pair of basketball shorts, and 4 pair of socks)  I chose a regular wash cycle which is typically 59 minutes start to finish.  In the panda I washed my clothes ( 2 jeans - size 14, 3 t-shirts size large, 4 underwear, 4 socks).  My regular washer I loaded everything and hit start.  The Panda, I filled part way with water using a bucket because I had the drain going out the backdoor so it wouldn't make a mess in my kitchen or bathroom.  The drain hose didn't sit nicely on the ledge of either sink or tub.  After adding water I added detergent, my clothes, and two more buckets of water and began a 9 minute wash cycle.  I quickly learned that jeans get twisted up and then don't spin, luckily I had one sweater bag and pulled a pair out and placed them in a mesh bag and then back into washer.  I still had to monitor the other pair, recommend putting long pants in a bag.  After 9 minutes, I drained the water and refilled with clean water, 4 buckets again and another 9 minute wash/ rinse cycle.  After this drain I pulled out 1 pair of pants and put them into the \"dryer\" for 4 minutes, then repeated for the other pants, I then put two shirts in and then 1 shirt and 4 underwear, and then all my socks all for 4 minutes.  I also bought the easy go dryer so after each spin I hung each thing in the holder and then started the dryer and started the dryer for 60 minutes.  After all this I poured a cocktail and the regular washer signaled it was done and ready to be put into the dryer.\nLesson learned: get a longer hose for faucet so I don't have o use bucket for filling washer and figure out a way of making drain hose stay in tub.  All in all this washer works good.  It does require \"babysitting\" but it is efficient.  It will work good for boating and camping since faucets are available outside and I can drain overboard easily.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3392, "id": 87655, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3393, "id": 116311, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 483, "len_tokens": 597, "text": "This was exactly the part I needed for my broken Whirlpool icemaker.  This kit came with several different wiring harnesses and attachment clips to choose from, but in my case, I was able to unplug the old wiring harness and plug it directly into the new unit.  I have a side by side and it was a little awkward to remove the old icemaker since there was not a lot of room to work.  But I was able to do the whole swap in about 15 minutes.  First, I'd advise you turn off the fridge.  I removed the three screws holding on the old icemaker and then using a small slotted screwdriver removed the old wiring harness that plugged into the icemaker.  I then removed a plastic bracket from the bottom that held the 3rd screw in place and attached it to the new unit.  Inspect your old unit to see the if your unit requires a cutout where the water lines comes into the icemaker.  This unit doesn't have the cutout, but it is prescored if you need a cutout.  All you have to do is use a pair of cutters to remove the plastic so it will fit your fridge.  I needed the cutout and while you need to be careful, it just takes a couple of minutes.  Check your old unit vs the new unit and adjust the water level screw to match your old unit.  Attach the wiring harness into the unit and screw the new unit in place.  With three screws, mine was already level.  If you had a 2 screw unit, you might want to visually make sure it was level.  After turning the unit back on, it took mine about an hour before the thermostat was ready and it started making ice.  Some folks have said it took theirs' a whole day to start, but in my case, within 24 hours I had a full ice drawer.  Like I said, about 15 minutes start to finish.  Update 12/8/2013  We've had this icemaker for about 18 months.  Noticed a burning smell coming from the fridge and discovered that icemaker heater was still on and harvest bar kept cycling around.  I unscrewed and unplugged icemaker and removed it from fridge.  Removed the front cover and discovered the little plastic wheel had a large burn mark on it that was all the way through.  Apparently something went south in the motor and I will have to get a new unit.  This unit has worked great until now, but I will have to get a replacement.  The last couple of weeks, the icemaker had been overfilling a little and the harvested ice was stuck together.  I guess I should have paid attention to this since it was a precursor to the unit burning out.  We have loved this unit, but just a cautionary tale to keep an eye on them.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3394, "id": 454963, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 426, "len_tokens": 542, "text": "ONE STAR IS MORE THAN THIS DRYER DESERVES!!!\n\nI bought my dryer in mid 2008 along with the matching washer.\nIt worked great for first year, but after that (about 1 week after the warrenty expired) I came home from work and and the dryer was beeping and all the lights were flashing, there were no error codes.\nI thought this was odd since I had not used the dryer in a few days.\nI pressed the cancel button and then about 1 hour later it started beeping again, still no error codes. This went on for some time and I finally unplugged the thing.\n\nI called Frigidaire/Electrolux and was told that since the warranty was expired I would be responsible for the repair myself. So I have lived with it for the past year, unplugging it when not in use.\n\nNow, it doesn't work at all. I start a load, it runs for about 20 seconds and shuts off. Beeping and blinking. No error codes. Keep in mind that as I write this, the dryer is only about 2 1/2 years old. It has a manufacture date of 03/08.\n\nA quick search on Google revealed hundreds of people with the same exact issue.\nDespite the hundreds of people complaining about this, Frigidaire refuses to fix the problem.\n\nThe people who have had this issue resolved have done so by replacing the control board.\nThe part sells for about $150.00.\nIt's fairly simple to install but if you hired a repair person the cost would be about $400.00 for parts and labor. Nearly the cost of buying a brand new dryer!\nAgain, Frigidaire REFUSES to cover the cost of this repair using the expired warranty as their excuse.\n\nI chose Frigidaire because I thought that a company with their longevity would have been a trustworthy company to do business with. Unfortunately, I was wrong.\n\nI am not upset that the dryer stopped working properly. Things like that happen. I understand that.\nWhat upsets me is that Frigidaire REFUSES to take care of the problem, despite the hundreds, perhaps thousands of complaints.\n\nFrigidaire/Electrolux has abused my trust as a customer and they will NEVER get any more of my business! NEVER AGAIN!!!\n\nIn fact, I am consulting an attorney about filing a class action lawsuit. When that gets going, I will be searching online for all unsatisfied customers and we will demand a recall, as well as repair/replacement and anything else the attorney thinks we can get!\n\nTo make a long story short, DON'T BUY THIS DRYER!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3395, "id": 59670, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 438, "len_tokens": 558, "text": "We had an older, \"Rigid\" duct.  Basically, it was thicker, single layer foil.  You bend it into a shape, and it stays.  So, when we pushed our dryer in, the old duct was crushed, reducing airflow.  It also tore everywhere it bent, leaving pinholes.\n\nNeither a good thing, especially when using a gas dryer.\n\nThis duct is what we used for our replacement.  It's 6 layers of superfine foil laminated over a steel coil.  It stretches out to 8', but relaxes back to less.  It's still foil, so handle it less if you can.\n\nThis is the brand our appliance repairman recommends, and is pretty much \"THE\" UL duct.\n\nClean your ducts as often as necessary to maintain quick drying times.  If your dry times go up by 10%, then a little switch in your dryer is turning off hundreds of times for each load.  It wears out, and you either replace it yourself (an hour if you don't do it for a living, or $150-200 if you pay someone else).\n\nYou should use as LITTLE as possible.  Get the dryer as close to the wall as you can while still being able to reach both the back of the dryer and the wall.  Stretch out however much you need to go between the two, plus about 6 inches.  Use wire cutters to cut the steel wire, then scissors or a knife for the foil.  Work the clamps onto each end, about 3 coils in.  Work the end onto the wall, having it touch the wall, and move the clamp forward.  Do the same on the tiny nub hanging off of the back of your dryer.  Then push your dryer back into place.\n\nWe were able to use 3 of the 8 feet, so we have enough left that if it's damaged during the next duct cleaning, we'll just replace it.\n\nYou cannot use more than 8' of flexible duct to connect your dryer to the in-wall duct.  This is not the duct to use for in-wall or across-the house type stuff.  Ducts must be short to make sure you still have airflow.  Using too much causes more lint buildup, lower airflow (bad for gas dryer which gives CO2 and CO through the vent), and increases fire risk.  Also, if the airflow is too low, you can burn out one of the three safety sensors in the dryer.  Again, time or service call (parts are cheap if you can wait for them to be mailed).  If you bypass the safety sensors, then your house burns down and you end up on Mythbusters or the Darwin Awards.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3396, "id": 188754, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 491, "len_tokens": 565, "text": "I bought a GZ25FSRXYY 4 door refrigerator in Sept as a surprise for my wife along with several other appliances. From the beginning it was a nightmare with the selling company delivering incorrect product but I can't blame whirlpool for that.\n\nThe unit has no recommended placement of food products and we often freeze our vegetables, our milk has soured in the refrigerator and meat goes bad rapidly.\n\nThe controls are not consistent and often lock up when we are trying to use them, water flow if very slow, ice delivery has to be hit several times to get even a half a glass of ice and now our ice maker has gone out completely.\n\nWe called the selling company for service and they took a week to get back to us only to tell us that we had go to whirlpool direct under warranty. Then we called whirlpool and they directed us to a contracted service company.\n\nThe tech was nice but did not understand the unit and had to call several times to get the icemaker out, He broke the cover for the icemaker and then the icemaker getting it out. So he ordered the new parts while onsite and set an appointment for 10 days later. I gave them my cell as a contact number and we waited on the day of service for them to show up, they never came.... later that day we found they had called our home phone answering service and left a message saying \"We\" would have to reschedule.\n\nWhen we called them back we were told the parts were on backorder for possibly a month and gave us the number for whirlpool to call direct. We called whirlpool and where placed on hold for 20 minutes in a 40 minute call only to be told it would be 2-3 weeks for the part, they could escalate it to see if they could get it sooner but we wouldn't know for another 5 days.\n\nI asked if this was the same icemaker they were currently putting in the new units and they said yes, so I asked how they could not have the part for a 5-month-old unit when it was a current part in being put in new units...again they couldn't tell me.\n\nThis is not the same company that made and serviced my 15-year-old appliances, they have grown to the point that customer service and customer satisfaction are gone.\n\nI write a technical column for an national magazine in the spa and pool industry and deal with the service side of large manufactures every day but find this very unacceptable!\n\nDo yourself a favor, buy a Bosch or LG...we started to but chose the whirlpool because of past history, our mistake. I'm pretty sure this review won't show up on the whirlpool site but I will place similar reviews on Epinions.com, Google and some appliance forums that I searched while shopping.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3397, "id": 88615, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3398, "id": 394679, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 442, "len_tokens": 572, "text": "6-20-17 Update\n\nNo fault found. Repair technician was unable to find anything wrong with the machine. He speculated the tub was 'off balance' when it was making the noise. We don't usually run extra small or extra large loads. Noise lasted about 3 to 4 weeks. Everything seems Ok now.\n\nI still like the machine, and I would recommend it. I don't miss the mildew in the front loader.\n\n6-7-17 Update\n\nThe repair technician had to cancel my repair appointment for 6-2 and re-schedule for 6-17. In the meantime, the strange noise during agitation has mysteriously gone away, and the machine is functioning perfectly. I'm inclined to keep the repair appointment, and perhaps the technician can explain why the machine was running noisy for about a month.\n\n5-16-17 Update...\n\nOops... My top loader has just become very noisy in the drive train function during agitation. Sounds like gears grinding lightly. This is a new sound that never existed previously. There are no abnormal noises during fill or spin. The machine is only 4 months old. I have contacted SpeedQueen service thru their website. Let's see how they will  assist me to fix the problem.\n\n$900 is a lot of money to spend for a machine that is malfunctioning at only 4 months old.\n\n3-9-17 Update...\n\nBest machine ever... Absolutely no regrets abandoning my front loader for this machine. The Speed Queen is a true performer and gets the job done faster and better than my 4-5 yr old failed Samsung/Kenmore front loader. I recommend this machine with no reservations or hesitation.\n\n'he' means 'huge expense'... Our Kenmore/Samsung front loader was less then 5 years old when the \"spider bracket\" virtually dissolved, sending the machine into shaking fits during the spin cycle. The repair bill would have been greater than $500 after parts and labor. Next, we watched many videos on the web illustrating the various problems with front loaders, the least of which is persistent mildew. Our Kenmore/Samsung had constant odor and mildew in spite of our efforts to leave the door & soap drawer open after each use since day one. Instead of fixing the Kenmore/Samsung, we decided instead to junk it in favor of a more traditional machine. The Speed Queen is a simple, reliable, back-to-basics machine. The clothes smell fresh for the first time in years. The cycle finishes in about 1/2 hour. Price is a bit high - hold your nose when you press \"PROCEED TO CHECKOUT\", and I guarantee you will not be disappointed.\n\nBTW... even the scrap metal guys don't like the Samsung... It sat on the curb for 5 days before someone finally grabbed it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3399, "id": 71810, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 406, "len_tokens": 569, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R3VZUKQ4S08F55\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/B1QzmyN%2BikS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1cb2sWRkCS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;This is RSP Dishwasher Rack Repair - vinyl in a 4 ounce bottle with brush applicator. If you need grey you can buy it online at (www.reliableparts.ca). It made repairing my dishwasher rack easy and effective and it will not dry out in the bottle after only one use. Remove old cracked vinyl. Tip: Wire strippers can cleanly score the old vinyl on the wire tine so you can use a box cutter knife to remove the old vinyl coating. Note: I used a Drumel tool with a small wire brush to get the old rust off. Make sure to use sand paper (Emery Cloth is better) on the bare metal and also sand at least 1/4\" of existing vinyl where the vinyl paint overlaps. Keep your thumb over the bottle of RSP vinyl as you are working so it will not harden in the bottle. Keep a small container (Small jar etc.) of Acetone (Finger nail polish remover) to set your brush in while you take a break between applications. DON'T over brush when applying. Use one or two brush strokes then leave it alone as anymore strokes will mess up the smooth coat. Tip: An artist brush that is a little bigger than the supplied applicator brush will apply more vinyl paint when brushing which makes it a lot easier to apply.\nThe next step is important to prevent the racks from rusting again. Cut tine caps so that they will slide onto the rack where the edge of your plates rest. They are only required for the tines that support the edge of the heavy plates (About 20 tines). If you don't do this, the edges of the plates may sink into the vinyl paint and expose the bare metal again. I have added a video to this tip section to show you how to cut the cap and where it rests to protect the rack. Apply a small amount of vinyl paint to the upright tine before finally pushing the cap into place. That will glue the cap on and prevent the flap of the cap (that you cut in the previous step) from twisting out of place.\nThis job took me several hours however being able to only spend 20 minutes at a time by using the above method made it easy and enjoyable.\nFrank C.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3400, "id": 465514, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 411, "len_tokens": 534, "text": "The Bosch SHE68E15UC is virtually silent in operation. The built-in water softener really works with our hard well water. The fingerprint resistant stainless steel front is great. The display is excellent and informative. The various cycle selections are versatile. The auto-sense wash adjustment time works fine. The half-load works even in the pot scrub mode. The water and energy usage is the lowest on the market. And the 24/7 water protection with automatic shut-off at the water source can prevent a flood even when you're away.\n\nOh yeah...Our dishes and glassware have never been as sparkling clean as they come out of this dishwasher. The in-line water heater regulates the water temperature as needed for the cycle in use. The dishes are dry after the cycle is complete and we keep the door closed for an hour or so.\n\nThe dishware tines in the lower rack might be a little close together for some shaped plates, but not for the old and new style of dinnerware we own. Tall wine glasses fit fine in the height adjustable middle rack. The upper cutlery tray safely holds a full dinner party of silverware and keeps everything separate and easy to unload.\n\nGet it? We love this dishwasher! Really, this is a wonderful dishwasher...the best dishwasher we have ever had.\n\nUpdate on 1/1/2010: I just re-read my review and came to the conclusion that my enthusiasm for this dishwasher might imply that I work for Bosch. That is not the case. I am in no way connected to the appliance industry. I'm just a happy Bosch SHE68E15UC owner.\n\nUpdate on 1/14/2010: We originally used Somat (Miele) brand \"Dishwasher Salt\" for the built-in water softener in our Bosch SHE68E15UC. An entire 2.66 lb. (1.2 Kg) box of Somat salt lasted for about one month. I have the Bosch set for the highest water softening level because our well water has 35 grains of hardness (600 milligrams/gallon). Using a $9 box of Somat salt per month would be too costly, so I decided to switch to the considerably lower cost Morton System Saver II salt sold in a 40 lb bag for only $6. The System Saver II salt is processed 100% pure salt and is supplied in a pellet size that easily flows through the filling funnel provided with the Bosch dishwasher.\n\nCargill's \"Diamond Crystal Pellets with Softener Care(tm) Formula\" will work just as well as the Morton System Saver II Salt Pellets.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3401, "id": 87631, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3402, "id": 61687, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 470, "len_tokens": 529, "text": "This AcuRite 01080 Pro is one of the better designs in humidity monitors that are available on the market right now IMO.\nIt not only has a great set of features but it is also easy to learn to use. It also looks nice and I don't mind it being displayed in the house.\n\nWhen it comes to deciding where you want to place it you have options. You can magnetically attach the included base for tabletop use, hang it on a wall using the nail hole in the back or magnetically attach it to your refrigerator or similar metal object. It is nice to have options and they have been tastefully implemented into the design. I do appreciate the easy to attach base as well as the magnetic capabilities.\n\nThe round puck style is both functional and aesthetically unobtrusive. It measures approximately 3.75\" in diameter and I find that to be just the right size for the information that needs to be displayed on its screen to be both legible and decipherable. All the information needed is right on the display. There are no submenus nor dual purpose lines of text. What you see is what there is.\n\nThe simplicity of the design is another reason I find this one to be much more likable than other designs. There are only 4 buttons and a switch on the back of the unit. The switch is for selecting between F or C. The UP and DOWN arrow buttons are for setting the alarm high and low points as well as calibration. The ALARM button cycles it on or off. The RECORDS button cycles thru previous readings. You do need to hold the unit in your hand to be able to press the buttons as they are on the rear of the unit. That is why I prefer the base or to magnetically mount it as it allows for easy manipulation of the buttons.\n\nThis is a monitor that you will need to hold in your hand and manipulate to use it fully.\n\nIt requires 2 AAA batteries that are not included.\n\nI find it to be well constructed and made from quality components.\n\nThe LCD screen is highly visible. You can see it completely from side to side. It is only from an up and down angle that it begins to fade and eventually not be visible. I find the screen to be easily read even in lower light conditions. The background behind the LCD screen is reflective and even just a little bit of light in the room will allow you to read it. This is one of the best displays on a small humidity monitor that I have seen.\n\nI would recommend this monitor as you get a lot for the inexpensive price. It is a quality unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3403, "id": 120925, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 451, "len_tokens": 540, "text": "My husband ordered this washer when our old Whirpool one gave out after 15 years.  We normally do a lot of research when we are making a big purchase but this time we didn't, since we needed a washer immediately, and we had already had the same model dryer, which works very well.  What a mistake that was!  I know that the politically correct thing to do these days is to go Green and use less water, but I don't care what technology the new HG washers have, there is no way that an entire 3.6 cu ft. washer,  filled \"almost\" to the top with clothes, can properly clean an entire load with only 2 inches of water! I know that my loads only had that amount of water in them because when load after load came out with stains, I finally paused the washer in the middle of the wash cycle to view the water level.  I was rather shocked to see that it was only filled with about 2 inches!  Still, I wanted to give this washer a chance before I returned it, so I gave it one final shot when my daughter spilled chocolate milk all over her bed comforter.  I even used a pre staining treatment on it (which always worked perfectly for tough stains in my old washer), but when the cycle was finished and I took the comforter out, the stain was still clearly visible.  That was the last straw!  I am returning this machine for a GE \"old fashioned\" model that allows enough water to be filled so that my clothes can be cleaned properly.  Unfortunately Whirlpool only makes HG energy efficient models now.  The other thing that I want to mention is that I DID READ THE INSTRUCTIONS and I used the machine properly.  I did NOT fill it to the very top with clothes. I made sure that my clothes did NOT cover the washer head at the bottom, and that they formed a \"ring\" around it, AND I made sure I used HG detergent.  So, saying that people who are complaining that their clothes are coming out dirty because they are not using the washer properly, doesn't fly in my case.  I made sure I followed the instructions.  The final comment I want to make about this washer (which is still yet another reason it is getting returned), is that my clothes always come out EXTREMELY wrinkled.  I can never get the wrinkles out in the dryer, no matter how much I tried.  I NEVER had that problem with my old washer.  The bottom line is that if dirty, wrinkled clothes don't bother you, then this is the washer for you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3404, "id": 208921, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 461, "len_tokens": 553, "text": "This was ordered was a gift for my husband's December 12th birthday.  The main item arrived, December 6, in time for his birthday. However, the parts needed to operate the machine did not  arrive until after Christmas.\n The items missing were:\n  The dispenser handle, the cord to power the machine and the drip tray, the pressurized connector, cleaning bottle, the cord for the car and the very  important instruction manual.  If we had received the owner's manual with the initial deliver we would have been able to determine what was missing.\nAs of December 6th delivery we had only received the dispenser handle!!!.  I left messages with Carrie Williams through email and voice mail.  Initially I thought we were unable to connect, due to our time difference and my work schedule and both my husband and daughter called. However, after several voice mails and emails had not been responded to, I realized this was not the case.  On December 26, I called the company again.  I was given a lot of excuses and the blame was placed on the USPS system.  When I asked the to have the items still needed to be sent Priority Mail, I was told only part of the missing items would be sent.  During my conversation with the man this morning, he admited that he didn't know why 3 items were listed on the invoice and only one arrived.  He didn't seem to know where these items were and why they weren't all packaged together.  After that I asked for a supervisor and was given his voice mail.  However this supervisor did call me back immediately.  Rudy, the supervisor promised that I would receive everything by tomorrow.  But when I asked about the items that we initially asked for to be sent with those priority mailed, I was told I would have to wait to see if they arrived as planned through USPS.  So we are once again waiting for the first items.  I was given a lot of excuses as to why this happened.  This company does not want to take responsibility for the actions of their employees.  Compact needs to retrain and monitor their employees in the customer service and warehouse departments.  This is not a good way to do business.\nAfter New Year's Day and help from Yves at Amazon, we received the final part and had the and were told the Owner's Manual only came as a PDF file.  After Yves talked to the supervisor at Compact, we received the final part.  It was thrown in a box unwrapped with another part and a small piece of bubble wrap.  The bottom of the platform was scuffed as if it had been used.\nI would not recommend this company to anyone ever!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3405, "id": 127116, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 429, "len_tokens": 546, "text": "I futz with things....especially if I think I can replace something quickly and easily by myself otherwise I hire the big guns....in this case, the product I bought to replace my Sub-Zero Condenser Fan Motor did not come with all the items pictured....perhaps a quality issue with packaging, perhaps all shipped items come this way....I don't know.\n\nThe motor itself will work as a replacement for the OEM version of the Sub-Zero 561 (my model sub-zero) condenser fan, however the specifications on the motor do not exactly match the specs (different amps specs) of the motor I replaced.  That's ok I guess.  Beyond that, little description for this product on Amazon site but had several pictures displayed attached connector pins to motor wiring for the male socket insert which clips to the female power source plug.  That was not the case.  The motor had unfinished exposed wire and was missing some other parts as well....It came with machine screws and accessories to attach the fan to motor (not all  pictured items) BUT missing the male nylon connector(s), ground wire, electrical caps (didn't need it) and finished termination plugs to insert in the male nylon connectors.\n\nThe good news is Sub-Zero engineering design made removing the fan and replacing is easy.....I also disassembled the old motor to cannibalize parts (metal connector pins) to use on the new motor.....thank goodness I enjoy the futz...\n\nAfter all said and done....not a big deal for me because I'm usually resourceful given the lack of proper parts.....but for anyone else expecting what you see in the picture...you may receive all the parts but in my case may not....so as they say with autos.....your mileage may vary....and so was my experience.\n\nThe fan motor works very well once installed....I'm just happy I had fun swapping out the old part for new.....you know...sometimes these small projects become unbearable all day propositions but I was happy it was completed.....quickly, around a 2 hours.\n\nOne last very important beneficial tip....when you remove the fan motor from its mount (remove the entire bracket with the motor attached) in the refrigerator...make sure you have a vacuum cleaner and compressed air handy, to clean out the condenser...blow from the fan side out...(IMPORTANT TIP) cover the intake partition with a damp cloth to collect any dust blowing out, otherwise you're kitchen will be an especially dusty mess!!!!....it's a great opportunity to blow out and vacuum out years of collected dust w/o interference of the fan....to ensure the condenser  more works more efficiently...perhaps some power savings?\n\nHope this is helpful.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3406, "id": 87727, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3407, "id": 85588, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 446, "len_tokens": 518, "text": "I have a samsung front load washer/dryer set that I bought about 13-14 months ago. As with anything made now days the timer in the dryer went off that told it that it was out of warranty and to go ahead and break. Little annoyed that the dryer broke in the first place because it really isn't that old and its only my wife and I that use it so usage is quite low.\n\nNow opinion of the dryer out of the way... Our dryer just suddenly stopped working. Power came on control board would light up. You could hit start and it would act like it was going to by chiming and you could hear a slight click from something internal telling it to start but nothing would happen. The drum wouldn't turn and the motor made no noises. I looked it up online and apparently its pretty common for the thermostat and thermistor to overheat and burn up. Getting to these parts is fairly easy if you follow a tutorial but takes a bit of work. So instead of replacing 1 at a time and playing with trial and error I just took it apart and replaced both at same time. The dryer started up just fine and seems to be working well. I am curious to see how long it will last though since the original failed in just over a year.\n\nWhy did I choose these parts to replace? When searching online for my issue I found several people with Samsung dryers with similar issues and all of them seemed to replace these parts and their dryer began working. It seems to be a fairly common issue.\n\nAdvice\nIf you are even somewhat handy with a screwdriver this was fairly easy to take apart and replace at least in my front loader. I think it was about 20 screws and it was amazing how much of the dryer you have to remove to get to it but it was all very easy.\n\nThe video I watched for taking the dryer apart can be found here http://www.appliancepartspros.com/samsung-dryer-thermistor-dc32-00007a-ap4201716.html . For my specific model it wasn't 100% the same but it was very close and made it very easy.\n\nI was told pulling clothes out of the dryer early before the cycle completes could be a possible cause for this issue. Apparently near the end of the cycle the dryer cools itself down so if you pull something early it is still hot and could be the reason this is happening. I am not positive on this but it made sense so from now on we're going to try and let ours finish their cycles.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3408, "id": 513448, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 449, "len_tokens": 584, "text": "I am considering selling my w/d unit separate from the trailer and came here and decided to leave a review.\n\nI had a lot of frustrations about buying a washer/dryer that was so expensive for my RV.  RV manufacturers make the laundry closet so small that it rules out virtually every w/d available in U.S. stores.  These are 23\" (or a fraction under) wide by my recollection. They were virtually the only make that would fit in the laundry closet of my Open Range Fifth Wheel RV.\n\nMy manuals are in storage with the RV, so I'll go from memory on any specifics.\n\nLike all/most front loaders, this is an HE washer.  You MUST MUST use HE laundry detergent.  This is a low sudsing formula. There are lots of settings, much like on any full machine.  Compartments for detergent, bleach, fabric softener.  I recall the washer uses 14-17 gallons of water.  I had a 42 gallon gray tank for the bathroom/laundry.  I could take a shower and two loads, but the second load risked filling the tank.  Normally I dumped the tank every two loads (also after every two showers).  These are unlike combo units that don't have high speed spin cycle and don't vent the dryer.  The 1200 RPM spin for cottons gets them wrung out well and easier to dry.  The vented dryer is very efficient.  Talk to people with combo units and they complain that the whole wash/dry process takes many ours, 4-6 hours some people complain about.  That's because they don't have the high spin for cottons. Your cottons are wetter at the end of the wash cycle and the condensing dryer is more inefficient and will take even longer due to the wetter clothes. When the 1200RPM spin hits the entire trailer would vibrate.  You always know when the wash is winding down--all the chairs and sofa turn into vibrating seats. LOL\n\nThe dryer is great.  I use it to unwrinkle clothes.  I soaked and wrung a clean washcloth, tossed it in their with some wrinkly shirt and let it steam out the worst of the wrinkles.  It dried quickly and quietly.  I'm not an overly sensitive sleeper but I would toss wash into the dryer and go to bed with the dryer 8 feet from the head.\n\nAt home we have a new HE washer--it is terrible. I have to pre-treat everything. I find food stains on my clothes that the wash never gets out.  I realized that while living in the RV I never had that issue. Same clothes, same detergent, same sloppy eater--cleaner clothes.  I realize now, the machine machine is much better than the GE we have at home.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3409, "id": 196213, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 443, "len_tokens": 526, "text": "This dishwasher is extremely quiet compared to the 12 year dishwasher I replaced.  The \"Hybrid Stainless Steel Interior\" means that the interior part of the door is stainless steel, but the interior tub is plastic. I knew that when I bought it and I don't have any issues with that being that way, but if all they say in the product description is \"Hybrid Stainless Steel Interior\" then I can see why it is misleading to someone who hasn't physically seen the dishwasher first.  The issue that I have is the rack design and its component parts.  The metal rack materials seem strong and sturdy and well protected by its coating, but the silverware baskets and flip down racks are extremely flimsy. In one respect I do like the way the basket have lids with holes to insert the handles of the spoons and forks, and the blades of the knives.  I'm assuming that makes it more efficient to clean them.  The problem is that the doors on top of the basket are extremely flimsy, difficult to close, and likely to break in a year's time (although none have broken yet).  The slots for the knives are so close together that the handles get in the way of each other.  We were having problems getting all the dish washer soap to dissolve until we figured out that the soap dispenser is blocked by the silverware baskets.  If you put a lot of silverware directly in front of the soap dispenser, it blocks the water going into the dispenser and it leaves residual soap, even when using the recommended Cascade ActionPacs.  There are flip down racks that are used to hold up wine glass stems.  The are removable and that's the way we keep it 98% of the time otherwise they just get in the way.  But now I have to store this racks somewhere so that when I do want to use them, I can.  I find that really annoying.  I find it really annoying to load the dishwasher because of the rack space.  For dinner plates, the prongs are so far apart laterally that it can really only take large plates and does not work well with the square plates we bought at the same time.  The top rack has a recess for the sprayer that protrudes into the upper rack space, making it almost useless for stacking small bowls and plates.  Don't even think of using the middle of the rack to put glasses.  I feel like the design takes away about 1/3 to 1/2 of the capacity of what the upper rack could hold if it were designed properly.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3410, "id": 87199, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3411, "id": 69635, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 466, "len_tokens": 564, "text": "I purchased two of these hoses to replace two (still good) rubber hoses on my nine year old \"Kenmore\" washer.  As I purchased these from \"Amazon\", they are listed and sold as ONE hose each.  If you wish to replace both the hot and cold water hoses on a washing machine, be sure to order TWO of these hoses.  Because these are stainless steel braided (clad) hoses, they should be far safer from bursting for far longer than plain rubber hoses.  I have seen the water damage from burst rubber hoses on washing machines and it is not a pretty sight.\n\nI priced these same hoses at my local \"big box\" home stores and these are far cheaper for the same listed specifications so I decided to give these a try.  Despite some other reviews, I had absolutely no trouble at all installing these two hoses.  I found them to be very flexible and they both came with rubber washers installed in both ends of the two hoses.  I am rather \"handy\" so I installed them myself.  They will fit standard water valves and standard (as they are on my \"Kenmore\" washer) water input spigots.  I installed and tightened them by hand and then gave each end an extra quarter turn with channel lock (pump) pliers.  I have had NO leaks or drips since install or to now, a month later.\n\nI have only had these hoses installed for one month so it is far to early to know how long they may last.  In my experience with being a \"handy man\", these hoses seem to be of very high quality for the price.  They seem to be of the very same quality as the ones I saw at the \"big box\" stores that were priced a lot higher than these.  These two hoses that I received from \"Amazon\" are made in China but so was every other hose of this type I saw anywhere.  I even asked a plumber friend of mine about \"American Made\" hoses and he laughed and said \"Good luck finding any of these made in America\".  By the way, this same plumber friend thought these looked to be a great buy too.\n\nAgain, it's too early to know how long they may last but these seem to be very good in my opinion and I especially liked the price.  So, as I continue to hope they will last, I would recommend them.\n\nUPDATE: I'm still very pleased with these hoses.  It is now June 6th, 2017 and I have now had these hoses installed for one year and 9 months.  These hoses could of course fail at any time but I'm convinced these hoses are far safer and will probably last a LOT longer than the two rubber hoses they replaced.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3412, "id": 87127, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3413, "id": 399688, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 393, "len_tokens": 548, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R2QU1L52EF6H2O\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/G1V4KYYizyS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81asa8fe8-S.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;I purchased this twin tub washing machine because I was tired of having to go to the laundry mat or hand wash and wring out clothes to hang to dry.  I knew about twin tub washing machines and had been trying to find one locally and online.  When I saw this machine appear on Amazon with free shipping at a great price I ordered it right away!  The shipping was very fast, as well.  When I received the package there was a tiny piece of plastic that had broke off on the curved bracket that holds the drain hose and rests the hose onto the side of the machine.  I'm going to have to superglue that but it in no way takes away from the functionality of the machine.  The machine stunk something fierce when taken out of the package.  The smell gradually decreases over time.  It holds a decent amount of clothes and cleans well.  The spinner is very powerful as well.  This is NOT a turn it on and walk away washing machine, but no twin tub machine is.  The drain pump does a good job at draining the water, however sometimes you need to turn it back to regular and back to drain again for it to kick in.  When you are all done using the machine you do want to keep the drain hose over the washing machine side and lift the machine over the tub and let the drain hose fall into the tub and tilt the machine side to side to get that last little bit of water out.  You will absolutely need a small faucet adapter for the fill hose because it's quite small.  The drain hose is shorter than I'd like but it's not a big deal.  There are some things you will want to make sure to buy when you order this machine.  You will need a floating lint trap because the built in lint traps of all twin tub machines just don't work.  The low agitator is prone to lead to tangling of delicates and anything with long sleeves.  Use mesh laundry bags.  I would get a set of several and use them, they do prevent items from tangling.  The video review includes a demonstration of how the machine works.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3414, "id": 45369, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 413, "len_tokens": 505, "text": "Folks, we've had this ice maker for over two years. I'd give it 5 stars if it hadn't broken last summer. More on that later.\n\nThis item is made in China. It is sold under various appliance brand names and sports differing features and skins. It's the same product overall.\n\nIt is as advertised. Makes hard, dry ice that will last longer in your drinks. With ice retailing for $4.00 per bag these days, it will pay for itself in a year or so. If you let it run all day and bag your ice for later use, it will keep you stocked.\n\nIt's fully self-contained with a water reservoir that's filled by hand. It doesn't have to be connected to a mains water source.\n\nMy reasoning for four stars: Last summer, the plastic evaporator pan broke. I did some research and found that this is a common issue with these ice makers. Took it apart this morning and repaired the cracked pan. Test-ran it with the covers removed and observed it working.\n\nI found what caused the broken pan. The cause isn't inferior plastic as has been presumed. A part that has given good service for over a year in this scenario isn't suddenly inferior. Something had to break it.\n\nMy observations: The servo gearmotor that shifts the pan starts moving in the wrong direction at times, even though the limit switches are already made for that direction. The pan is deadheaded (at physical movement limit) and can only move in the opposite direction. The motor tries to move the pan where it can't go and the pan cracks at the collar where the motor shaft connects.\n\nI suspect the servo motor is going goofy. The limit switches work so that isn't the cause.\n\nPlaced a Ty-Wrap around the collar where the pan fits to the drive motor shaft and powered up again. The drive motor started in the wrong direction but the Ty-Wrap prevented the  motor shaft from turning inside the pan collar and breaking it. The motor now stalls and reverses itself to complete the cycle as it should.\n\nA hillbilly fix to be sure. But it's been running for several days and seems to be working well. How long it will work, I can't say. I'm not laying any heavy wagers on how long it will last.\n\n>Update on the hillbilly fix, 28 Jan 12: The Ty-Wrap repair held and the icemaker continues to work well. Hope it helps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3415, "id": 346536, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 455, "len_tokens": 573, "text": "I have owned the Wonder Washer for more than a year.  Thru trial and error, this is what I find works best:\n\n1) Load clothes in a separate 3.5 gallon bucket. About 2/3 full, loose and not packed down.\n\n2) Place in bathtub and use shower to fill bucket.  I add a small amount of detergent, diluted with water on top of the clothes as the hot shower is running (I have a watersaver hi-pressure shower head) This adds some extra cleaning time to the clothes\n\n3) Transfer clothes and water (the proper fill level is trial and error- the minimum as long as the clothes turn and without splashing over)to the Wonderwasher bucket.  I have the WW sitting on top of 3 foam exercise square mats with a plastic serving tray that the WW sits in.  This helps with noise and contains splashes.  I also wipe the WW bucket, motor base and the tray so I can monitor if water is splashing out\n\n4) Adjust time and cycle.  I've been using 9 minutes and gentle cycle (I think the gentle spins for 7 seconds- 3 second rest- 7 sec. spin- repeat. The Standard cycle is 14 sec spin- but was beating up and stretching socks and long sleeves)  I add fabric softener when I am starting the machine so the clothes are less wrinkled.\n\n5) Then I take the WW lid off, walk the bucket to the tub and pour off the water and clothes into a plastic dish rack (that has raised legs) and lets the water drain off.\n\n6) then I quickly hand wring out clothes and place them in the bathroom sink, fill with water, drain.  I do a quick hand wring again (not overdoing it) and place them in a spin dryer for 5 minutes (similar size to the WW) which spins at 1500 RPM.  Then I put the clothes on a folding rack and they are usually dry by the morning.\n\n7)  This is an example of the spin dryer (not sure if link is allowed)\nI spent $[...] on this item.  Hand wringing wasn't working well for me.\n\n[...]\n If you do use this it is very sensitive to being loaded with the heaviest cotton items first on the bottom.  Again there is trial and error learning this.\n\n8) I think the WW can do a great job cleaning clothes.  The above steps are a little labor intensive, but to me gives the best cleaning, rinse, wringing without using too much water.\n\nThe grey/black water some reviewers complained about is color coming out of the clothes because the WW does agitate and spin the clothes very well.  I'm amazed how many items aren't colorfast.\n\nHope this helps", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3416, "id": 464457, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 439, "len_tokens": 540, "text": "FISHER & PAYKEL FIRE HAZARD BEWARE\nNO CUSTOMER SERVICE\n\nIn 2004, we purchased a two drawer Fisher & Paykel dishwasher. By 2009, we had six service calls and had invested enough in repair costs to purchase a second machine.  I asked FP to declare the machine a \"lemon\" and replace it.  There position was \"wait to see what happens next\".  So, earlier this year, my wife and I were sitting in the kitchen at our breakfast table and started to smell smoke.  The dishwasher had turned itself on, then off, then on and the kitchen filled with smoke.  My wife was yelling about sparks flying out of the bottom of the machine as I was racing for the circuit breaker panel to shut the electrical source off.  By the time I returned, the bottom floor in our 5,000 sq.ft. home was full of smoke and my wife was opening doors and windows to vent the place.\n\n I immediately called FP customer service and was asked to send pictures of what caught on fire [shorted out].  I pulled out the bottom drawer to find that water had accumulated in the bottom of the machine.  Apparently, one of the lids on one of the tubs did not close fully and water had escaped.  There is no fault switch in the FP design that prevents the machine from running if the lid is not secure. After pulling the tub, I took pictures of the central electrical union box in the rear of the machine that was burned with ash having contaminated the standing water.\n\nI advised FP that there was at least a design defect, the machine was a hazard and, at a minimum we were entitled to a new machine.  You ask why I would ask for another one of these hazards?  Well, my wife loved the two draws and I vowed not to leave the house without turning off the circuit breaker.  FP said \"NO\" to my request.  If we wanted another machine we would simply pay retail.  FP had a three year warranty special running and I \"negotiated\" a $650 purchase price for their latest model.  Big, deal.  We could have purchased a reliable standard American machine for less. BUT, it would not have two drawers.  So, if I did not have a wife in love with the two drawers I would boycott Fisher & Paykel dishwashers.  Oh yes, for those who think that other manufacturer's two drawer dishwashers are an option you need to check out the uniformly negative reviews for the other manufacturers.  My recommendation is to stick with the standard one drawer model of KitchenAid.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3417, "id": 556913, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 458, "len_tokens": 569, "text": "Needed a refrigerator to replace my 20 cf ft Amana which died.  It stuck out 3 inches into the entry way into my little kitchen.  Had a small opening to fit it in new frig.  Most units are too wide at 36 in or too tall for my space.  Thought I'd try this one because it is white, fir the space limits, has 3 doors, I didn't want and ice maker, and my positive experiences with other F&P appliances.  This unit is designed for European sensibilities and tastes.  It's small inside - really tight.  The glass shelves go all the way across so you can't have a partial adjustment for tall items without making one shelf space REALLY short.  That leaves only the door bins.  The French doors look cool, but they are really a pain. You usually have to open both to access most things, so one side of where you're working is always blocked with a door.  There is no meat keeper and only a single hydrator (with two compartments) which goes all the way across the unit.  It came with one (!) very tiny ice cube tray.  Had to go buy more trays for all the cold drinks in SoFlo.  The door bins are really small, a problem compounded in the lower ones which feature a built-in divider which can't be removed.  It's nice and quite, however,  and my power bill has dropped significantly compared to what it cost to run the Amana.  Wish the handles were white too.  My biggest gripe is that the unit comes with a very thin plastic skin which covers everything.  It's nearly impossible to remove completely without tweezers because it won't pull cleanly out of all the corners. gaskets and seams.  I hated having to get down on hands and knees to remove the remnants of the plastic skin.  Delivery guys say they don't do that - and they didn't.  In sum, it fits in a small space well, is an energy miser, runs quietly, and appears to be very well made.  It is very small on the inside, the glass shelves and hydrator bin go all the way across the interior so the range of adjustments is very limited.  The shelves don't even go all the way to the back of the refrigerator compartment.  French doors means that you're working around one door all the time.  Very limited storage space on the doors and even more restrictive options there for adjustments.  Maybe non US containers are just shorter, but it's pretty frustrating when I can get a container the size of Wondra flour only on the top shelf because it's too tall for every other place in the unit.  I like parts of it, and I don't like others.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3418, "id": 548178, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 434, "len_tokens": 506, "text": "We finally had to replace our 25+ year old GE washer (we have a great local appliance repair guy - but parts are no longer available). I have been researching replacements occasionally over the past few years because I knew this day would come.\n\nThis is a new model, and I wanted to post a review because there were very few reviews to guide me, and I knew that some of the negative reviews posted on other sites could not be right because the units referred to were purchased long before this model was came on the market in September 2015.  We have experience none of the issues that have been complained about (allegedly) as to this model, and about other HE top loaders generally (white or gray streaks, some of the clothes never being wetted, etc.)\n\nNoise and vibration are excellent. This unit is in our main living area about 4 feet from our TV/entertainment center separated only by a set of folding doors. The old washer was definitely loud and the spin cycle would shake the TV dramatically. This new model is barely noticeable regardless of cycle. Clothes are cleaned and spun very well. In fact, my lightweight gym shorts were so dry I didn't even have to put them in the dryer. The quicker drying time (still using old dryer) is dramatic.\n\nThere's no agitator for clothes to get tangled up in. I have watched it work a lot, and it is impressive how it uses so little water (with most cycles) but makes sure all of the clothes are wetted and washed. We had a week's worth of laundry to catch up on, and it's done great with all kinds of loads, including sheets, a comforter, and the dog beds.\n\nWe really like the ability to load it up with almost a gallon of detergent and forget about it.\n\nFar from being gimmicky, the network connected feature is a real bonus - my wife and I get notifications when the load is done, and again if nobody comes and tends to it. Sometimes we would forget when we put a load in at night and, in the past, wet clothes would sometimes sit 'till morning.\n\nThe only area so far that could be improved would be the functionality of the app (we both have Android phones), as it is finicky sometimes to pull up and get status, but even then the notifications always seem to work.\n\nAll in all, we are very pleased. The only thing left to wonder about is long term reliability, but only time will tell.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3419, "id": 495228, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 473, "len_tokens": 558, "text": "This hood is replacing another ventless hood we had for a while. While I was unpacking it, I scratched the bottom because the box is stapled shut... The folded cardboard is really stiff and didn't want to open completely and the huge staples protrude enough to scrape the hood as you pull the unit out of the box. I noticed this as I was unpacking it and still scratched the thing. FOLD THE FLAPS OUT ALL THE WAY and you will be good. Anyway, If I used this hood as a vented unit, I would have to drill or cut through 4 shelves in the cabinet above it (mine are not removable) plus the top and the plaster ceiling (avoiding my roof joists in the attic). Then the roof vent and piping required in the attic. This unit uses two types of ducts (for vented operation) a huge 7\" round or a box type that is about 4\" by 11\" (not exact but close).\nBecause of all that work, I decided to stay ventless. This hood is replacing my previous ventless hood. Compared to my old hood, this thing kicks butt!!! The two lights are just amazing, they added more light to the countertop on both sides of the range... Like under cabinet lighting on the sides of the range now. I bought 50W light output LED bulbs. They fit right in and don't flicker on the lower setting. The dimmer setting on the hood does lower brightness but with the LED bulbs not much. Dim setting is about 20% less bright and I would like it a bit dimmer because we tend to leave this light on all the time, day or night. Since they pull very little power, it isn't a big deal at all. I REALLY like the lighting.\nNow the fan, the motor does hum when in operation and you can hear the air flow especially on high... This thing can move a lot of air. It does make noise but no where near as loud as the one it replaced (bought off the shelf at Home Depot). Even on high, it is easy to hold a conversation near it... Not possible before. The low setting is much quieter and the motor hum is more prevalent but not even annoying. It is just there. I know that if there are a lot of strong cooking odors or something burnt, this setup won't pull it out of the house (which sucks) but I feel that on the high setting with the nonvented type filter I bought installed, it may clear the air visibly and help with the smell. We haven't tested this yet but it is what it is. All in all a good vent hood and a definite upgrade from the $45 hood it has replaced.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3420, "id": 55233, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 443, "len_tokens": 579, "text": "Range hoods can be bought at almost any price, from under $100 to more than $2,000.  We chose this one to replace an old hood that did not have enough airflow, so any serious grilling was accompanied by smoke detector beeping.  The gold standards for hoods are cubic-feet-per-minute (CFM) and noise.  A well-made unit will run more smoothly, creating less mechanical noise than a cruder one.  This one is very quiet.  If offers infinite speed-control range.  At full speed, it exhausts 460 CFM, a good, but not astonishing rate.  Even a good hood still makes more noise if it moves more air, and there's no way around that.  We found that this unit operates quietly and exhausts a great deal more air than the old unit it replaced.\n\nWe noted an earlier review that mentioned that the box was somewhat inadequate.  We agree, but our unit did arrive undamaged, despite some dings in the cardboard.\n\nTo make installation easier, you remove the blower and motor assembly, so only the sheet-metal shell needs to be supported.  After mounting is complete, the blower re-attaches easily and plugs in with a single connector.  It does take two people, at least briefly, so one can support the unit while the other installs the first couple of screws.\n\nThe 893004 can exhaust from the top or the back.  You remove a metal knockout for the one you want to use.  It's intended to be hard-wired, with a knockout for a clamp to hold the electrical cable.  When installed, the electrical connection is near the right end of the top rear of the unit.  You supply the clamp for the knockout, depending what kind of cable is used in your home.\n\nThe installation took an hour or so.  Replacing an existing vented hood, as we were, is relatively easy.  If you must do the duct work to outside through the wall or ceiling, that's a considerably larger job.  As with any task, planning and doing is easier, as they say, than doing and then planning and then doing!\n\nThe lamp sockets accept two regular bulbs (not supplied) of up to 75 watts.  A three-position switch lets you turn on one or both lamps, but they are not dimmable beyond that.  We used two 60-watt equivalent LED bulbs, which work well and save money over time.\n\nIf you're considering this hood, we recommend it.  You can review  the installation instructions beforehand, which I recommend, at the company website, [...] . While the Broan name is less-well-known than its sister brand, NuTone, it is a company that has been around a long time, and is likely to continue to be.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3421, "id": 399486, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 563, "text": "Only have had the washer for a couple of days but I'm very excited  and happy to not have to go to the laundromat. The clothes came out clean and the machine is easy to figure out and use right away - I even did it without my husband. I had read a ton of reviews on other similar products and I'm glad I did - a lot of those suggestions helped a lot. By the way the washer is quiet but the spin makes a little noise. It is actually quiet If the load is small. If the load is heavier, it's not too much that I'm afraid my nosy neighbors will hear  but it gets loud if the load is uneven or heavy. Good news is it is easy to stop and rebalance. Hints I used from other products 1 -  it is faster to fill washer with  a pitcher or bucket or large bowl, or shower  than to use the tiny hose that came with it and 2 -the  washer needs to be higher than the area to which the drain dumps. I put it on a shower bench to drain in my tub - although the washer cannot be stored in the bathroom or it could mildew according to Instructions.  I tried it in my kitchen at first but the cord is short and after I thought the water pump had finished draining, I placed  the hose on the floor and it slightly flooded my kitchen floor with all the water that was still in the hose.  Happened twice.  Overall very happy with the quality and excellent value.  When the washer is delivered,  it will say it is a washer on the delivery box.  I have a very bad back but it is light and easy to move or carry. It must be on an even surface when washing, so if you put it on a bench make sure it is level. It holds lot more clothes than I expected but I wouldn't put too much in at once - better to do two loads than a heavy load just because I don't like the spinner noise. Also the options for gentle or normal and timer options from 3 minutes to 15 minutes on the wash cycle is great. The spin cycle also gives multiple timer options. Hope this helps. I washed my delicates & dresses and they came out great. I did a load with my husband's sweatshirt, an outfit of mine, some underwear, tshirts and there was plenty of room for more but I don't want to overload it. The clothes come out pretty dry from spin cycle. There is a white plastic plate thingy that you place on top of the clothes when they spin. The washer is attractive and if it lasts I will update to 5 stars.  But the power cord really needs to be just a wee bit longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3422, "id": 143506, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 410, "len_tokens": 546, "text": "At first, I was thrilled when I found this item on Amazon at such a great price.  Most of the time I find great prices on Amazon, so I wasn't surprised.  However, in this case, you only get what you pay for.\n\nThe Amazon.com listing for this part sold by APPLIANCE TECH PARTS is described as \"Whirlpool Agitator Cam Repair Kit 285811 285746 3351001, by Whirlpool\".  In addition, it again uses the Whirlpool name in other areas of the listing.  Further, it contains a photograph of the GENUINE Whirlpool Cam Repair Kit in its FSP (Factory Service Parts) bag just as you would receive it if you bought it from Whirlpool.\n\nIn fact, however, IT IS NOT A GENUINE WHIRLPOOL (FSP) PART!!!  What they are actually selling you is a Supco (Sealed Unit Parts Company) item that is a knock-off of the genuine item.  I have no idea of the quality of this Supco item, but I definitely didn't want to take a chance on it.  Besides, it's only a great price if it's for the factory item... knock-offs always cost substantially less.  What makes this even worse is that, when I went through Amazon's online process to return the item, since it wasn't sold by Amazon the seller requires that you pay for the return shipping.  I guarantee you that's not gonna' happen with me.\n\nI contacted Amazon customer service and they resolved the matter to my complete satisfaction immediately.  Ya' know, I really love Amazon's customer service... they're the best!\n\nPerhaps you won't mind buying this cheaper part because you just want the cheapest possible repair, but even if that's true, you have a right to know what you're actually buying.  APPLIANCE TECH PARTS has an obligation to correctly identify what they are selling, including stating very clearly that it is a \"generic\" part.  On my receipt, which was in the package, it states, \"Comments: Quality Generic Part\", but they need to clearly state that in their description!\n\nWhirlpool sells the genuine item on their website for $21.61 plus tax and shipping, and my local appliance service and repair company sells it for $18.90 plus tax.  I wound up buying the genuine part from my local appliance service and repair company because I wanted only the factory parts (the original parts lasted 12 years).\n\nHopefully my review will serve as a \"heads up\" for any potential purchaser so that at least they will know what they're buying.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3423, "id": 13275, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 457, "len_tokens": 525, "text": "I needed to replace my 30\" Kenmore range hood. I didn't want to spend a lot of money and wanted to buy a medium priced hood. I suspected that Broan might have manufactured my Kenmore hood which I think was the case.  The mounting screws and duct placement were exactly the same  as my old one which was a plus. The hood is not bad looking. I am a home improvement contractor and these are the circumstances that I encountered. As stated in other reviews I too needed to bend the support housing that holds the fan in place to make it spin quietly. With a little tweaking it spun freely. The par 20 bulbs Broan recommended are a joke. They protrude out of the unit and basically look like you bought the wrong bulbs. I ended up buying I believe par 16 bulbs. They are interior exterior and have a short length so they don't project past the hood unit. The bulbs are also flat which makes them sit flush. Why they recommend the par 20 is beyond me (some money wasted on  the purchase of those bulbs). I would recommend aluminun tape ( brown paper back that peels off to uncover adhesive) over duct tape to make connections on your exhaust. I tested the damper above my range hood after I mounted the unit to the bottom of the cabinets. I noticed that the damper opened beautifully but did not close when the fan was turned off. I tried to adjust the stop, I lubricated the pivot points but nothing seemed to help. Gravity will only work if they make the stop longer so the damper does not sit in a perfectly vertical position when open. Fortunately I have a wall damper on my exterior wall which will cut down draft. The low fan setting is whisper quiet but does not pull much of anything out of your kitchen. The high setting is loud but effective. A plus with the unit is the bottom is sealed so the two filters will catch everything. My other unit used to trap grease like crazy. You do need to reconfigure the duct work depending on your exhaust to the outside. Mine was an up through rectangular duct work. What I did was I did the proper knock out for rectangular ducting. I installed the damper flange. I slipped the unit in place and checked the function of the damper and then took it back down and used aluminum tape around the damper flange. I also tightened up the round duct knock out which was a little loose with tape. With all that said I guess I got my $139.00 worth. And as always Amazon Prime shipping is awesome.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3424, "id": 87815, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3425, "id": 543611, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 465, "len_tokens": 558, "text": "We bought this dishwasher to replace a decades old model that required hand washing first to get the job done, needless to say any dishwasher would have been any upgrade for us. I was a bit apprehensive to get this (or any) Bosch model since at least half the reviews I read talked about a \"terrible smell\" that never goes away. When I read that I kept imagining a rotten food smell or a baby's diaper when she starts eating solid foods, well it's far from that but it does have a bit of an odor. This is random but if you want to know what it smells like head to the house slipper section at REI, open a box of KEEN Howser II moccasins and smell the sole, that's exactly what it smells like, not terrible at all, you can't smell it when it's closed and after about 10 washes ours has disappeared. As a professionally trained chef I have a very strong nose and I just have to say, really.... what's all the fuss about?\n\nNow on to the good stuff!\n-This thing is quiet, so quiet that there's a red light that shines on the ground so you know it's on.\n-It has three racks, all of which are adjustable in some way.\n-The Finish tabs get thrown in the basket on the front of the middle rack, a lot easier than bending down and opening the little door.\n-It'll clean just about anything you put it in. I put a lasagna casserole dish in without pre-soaking it and the thing came out spotless.\n-The controls are on the top spine so your kids can't mess with them and they're out of sight.\n-The middle rack is removable for large sheet trays, platters or hood filters, also comes with a special spray attachment for this purpose.\n-Has a heating element, unlike some of the other Bosch dishwashers that just drip dry.\n-It was a breeze to install, I got it in under half hour.\n-It's a perfect match to our 800 series stainless steel Bosch fridge.\n-Also it'll hold a magnet (like our fridge)!\n\nNot so good..\n-No grinder so if there are heavy food chunks they're saved in a little basket which must be emptied, never had one so not really missing anything here, personally I don't need to put a whole cake in the dishwasher just because I can.\n-Has a new car tire like odor to it in the beginning, it goes away. I suspect this smell comes from what looks like a recycled rubber layer around the outside of the dishwasher, that's what keeps your dishwasher so quiet. Even if the smell never went away I would definitely trade that for a dishwasher I can't hear at all.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3426, "id": 430724, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 414, "len_tokens": 508, "text": "I have to admit I bought this All-sun hygrometer simply because of its price...I have never had any use for the humidity reading on one of these.  I got it for its unique dew point feature...For some odd reason, weather people, stations, and even weather sites online tend to ignore the all important dew point which more than anything else relates what it really feels like outside, (or in) as to it being comfortable...Unlike a humidity reading, the dew point is never wrong, or misleading as to comfort.  No matter what the temperature is, or humidity, if the dew point is high, its muggy and crappy out.  If it's low, its dry and comfortable.  Unfortunately, even the instrument manufacturers haven't caught on to the significance and importance of the dew point.  This piece like all others displays the humidity as the prominent reading, with the temp and dew point being smaller.  But as long as I can see it clearly which I can on this I am very satisfied...This was a cinch to set up with the enclosed instructions.  In fact the only thing I had to do was put the batteries in it and then switch it from C to F which you have to do on everything these days.  The readout is big, very clear, and has excellent contrast.  Although it includes a sensor that can be detached and remotely set, like outside a window for example, I have this right on the unit for I like knowing the dew point in my home.  Fortunately this mounts easily on the wall, (not all of them do, and some not at all), and I had the perfect location for it...\n\nIn conclusion, I can well understand depending on some peoples needs and circumstances why a humidity reading is very important.  Humidors, wine cellars, etc...But for me I am interested in the dew point reading, and this unit does that for much cheaper than any one I could find on Amazon at the time of this writing.  It's big, user friendly, and the cost can't be beat.  It's too early to tell if this will be as durable as I hope.  So far it's doing its job flawlessly.  But if it up and quits for any reason in what I consider an unreasonable amount of time, I will certainly be back to update this review.  For now, it is so far so good, and I give it a solid 5 stars, and recommended it...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3427, "id": 308332, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 426, "len_tokens": 546, "text": "Update April, 2016.  This has been in service for 18 months with no problems, other that its gradual tendency for the readings to \"drift.\"  This is a nice way of saying they don't always stay accurate, but I've only had to re-calibrate it about every 8 months or so, and it's easy to do.\n\nThis is quite possibly the best weather station I've ever owned, and I've owned MANY during my lifetime.  The digits are large, easy to read, and can be seen from across the room.  The backlighting can be adjusted to levels of brightness and it changes color at various temperature levels, i.e. from dark red at the hottest, 100+ to light violet at the lowest, 10-.  The warmer colors will indicate more comfortable temperatures, while the cooler temps will be indicated by progressively cooler colors.  You get an actual barometer reading, the graph is fairly useless because the blocks are too big and look clumsy.  This is an initial review, I will update as needed.\n\nSmiles:\n\nFairly easy to set up.\nHas calibration feature to fine tune the unit.\nRecords highs & lows, can be set to clear manually at midnight or within what ever time parameter you choose.\nAccuracy specified to +/- 1 degree, unusual for a consumer weather station, seems spot on so far.\nInstruction manual is neatly presented and laid out, just English.\nDew point can be displayed, this is more \"telling\" than the actual humidity metric.\nAn uncluttered bezel with large buttons and clear labels.\nEntire unit is LARGE making it easy to work with, the display is 5\" H x 4.5\" W.\nAn excellent price point.  There's a lot of junk out there costing more with fewer features.  LaCrosse is a great example.\n\nFrowns:\n\nI found the instruction manual a bit confusing.  This may be due to the fact this unit has so many parameters and configurable settings.  Customer service answered an email question in just a few minutes though.\nThe forecast is based solely on a barometer's rise or fall.  Some units claim a forecast based on algorithms taken from a 14-day sampling period.  No big deal, just don't plan a picnic around the forecast icon.\nI did not find an outdoor battery power indicator as described, perhaps it turns on only when the power is low.\nTemperature/barometer graph is so blocky it's hard to read.  It occupies too much space for too little value.\nThese are my initial impressions, I will report back with an update after this has been in use for a few weeks.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3428, "id": 483224, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 430, "len_tokens": 550, "text": "Bought this unit to replace a double burner propane stove on our sailboat which is no longer made.  It was a close fit, and I liked the fact that the ignition piezo is battery operated and doesn't need 110v, which means I don't need to use a lighter to light the burners.  Because this unit is a little smaller, I cut a 1/8\" black plexiglass frame about .25\" larger on all sides to serve as a base.  The unit looks very handsome installed.\n\nBecause I am using propane, I swapped the installed burner orifices (or \"jets\") with the alternate propane orifices included with the stove per the instructions, using a socket screwdriver.  It was no big deal.\n\n I inserted the battery.  The piezo igniter didn't work.  Turned the battery around and they worked fine.\n\nInstalled without major incident, though I had to buy an adapter to fit my propane (3/8\") hose fitting from the propane tank.  I used the included washers with the included gas elbow fitting, and also sealed all fittings with yellow gas tape (not white teflon plumbers tape).  I checked for leaks with smell and soapy water at fittings.  All good.\n\nFlipped on the propane and fired it up.  The larger burner is very powerful, and boils coffee considerably faster than my old stove.  No problems with both burners ignited at the same time.\n\nThe major problem I'm having, and hence the four stars, is adjusting the low burner setting.  There is almost no decrease in flame from full to lowest setting, most probably because it was set up for natural gas and I'm using propane, which burns hotter.  The instructions say the low flame adjustment is a tiny screw inside the shaft that the burner adjustment knob slides onto.\n\nAnd therein lies the problem.  To reach that screw, you need a *very* thin, very long shaft flathead screwdriver.  The standard cheapo 5 tiny screwdriver set you bought at Walmart or Radio Shack won't work, because the screwdriver shafts are not long enough to reach the screw.  So I bought another set on Amazon that seemed to have longer shafts, only to find the screwdriver shafts are just a tad too thick to fit inside the hole of the shaft.  Grrrrr.\n\nSo now once again, I have to hunt around for a screwdriver that will work.\n\nSince this is a required tool for this stove that I doubt many folks will have in their toolbox, I feel the manufacturer or seller should have included a tool you can make this necessary adjustment with in the package.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3429, "id": 502186, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 438, "len_tokens": 510, "text": "I noticed in the morning our ice was a bit slimy and when I returned from work later that night I realized the freezer and refrigerator were thawing. I also notice every so often I would hear a click. I unplugged the refrigerator from the wall, took off the backing and touched the top of the compressor.....wow it was so hot to the touch I couldn't keep my hand on it. With my technical abilities and a bit of research on-line I was able to figure out the culprit was more than likely the white overload/starter relay unit that slides onto the 3 straight terminals of the compressor. I disconnected the jumper from the capacitor making sure I didn't touch the terminals and properly discharged the capacitor to ground so I didn't get shocked. I didn't realize at first the overload/starter relay pulled away (to the left of the compressor) since it was on there pretty good so it took a little muscle. As soon as I got the unit off I shook it and heard a rattle. Yes, after 13 years of service this relay unit disintegrated internally. Keep in mind the original overload and starter relays were in the same plastic unit. The replacement kit comes with 1 overload relay and 2 different start relays depending on the type of compressor you have (so one does get thrown away). I was a bit nervous before I ordered because it was clear the parts were all seperate. Rest assured they slip onto the compressor terminals just like the old all in one unit did. Besides the extra starter relay that I didn't use I also tossed the safety cover because it didn't fit my setup. I did throw a cable tie across the overload/starter relays once I popped all of the wires back on to make sure the relays didn't popup off over time due to vibration. As a preventive measure I also replaced the little black capacitor as well although it wasn't neccessary since the overload/starter relay was the culprit. The whole repair took me about 30 minutes, 15 minutes to blow the dust out of the bottom of the refrigerator and about 3.5 hours to thoroughly clean the inside of the refrigerator and freezer (may as well when the whole thing is thawed). The capacitor and this relay kit cost me $69 with shipping. If you have a reasonable level of handiness you will be able to do this repair.....just have a healthy respect for power. I included pictures of the disintegrated overload/starter relay and of the new kit wired onto my compressor", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3430, "id": 445278, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 499, "len_tokens": 564, "text": "My apartment complex doesn't allow traditional washing machines so I've been looking for alternatives for a while because the complex laundromat is disgusting and it takes too much time and effort to constantly run to my mother's house to do laundry. I spent a significant amount of time searching for portable washing machines and settled on this one because of the price and the reviews. I've been using this thing for a week now and I really like it. It's a little louder than I expected it to be, considering it's small size but it's about the same as a regular washing machine would be. I did find that placing it on level flooring and using a rubber mat helps with the noise from the spin vibration. Since the cycles are separate, this machine does involve more work than a fully automatic machine would. The wash cycle is powerful and I recommend using a delicates bag for underwear and delicate fabrics. So far, I've learned to plan my loads out so that I'm not overfilling the machine. If the load is too heavy then you can hear the motor struggling to move and if the water level is too high, the lid will leak. The spin cycle will only take about half of the max capacity for the wash cycle at a time but both cycles can run at the same time, which helps to save a bit of time. Delicate items and thin fabrics come out of the spin cycle ready to hang for drying. I'm not impressed with the hosing that comes with the machine. The faucet linking that came with the machine doesn't fit any of the faucets in my house and the hose provided is made of incredibly thin plastic that seems fragile. I just stick my shower hose into the tank and fill it that way. I'm sure you could find hosing to replace the originals but it wasn't worth the time and effort to me. The drain hose is also thin plastic but so far I haven't had any problems with leaks. I drain directly into my bath tub and I have to clean my bathtub more often now but that's a small price to pay for the ability to wash clothes at home. Overall, I'm really pleased with this machine and I'm enough of a nerd to admit that I really enjoy using this machine, although the extra steps sometimes get a little tedious.\n\n**UPDATE** I've had this washer for about four months and the spin cycle stopped working last night. Going back through other reviews, I've noticed that this is a common theme and there doesn't seem to be a resolution to the problem. I was really pleased with this machine up until this point. I'm going to dismantle it and see if I can trick it into working but I'm not optimistic about it. Looks like I should have spent the extra money upfront to buy a more durable machine.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3431, "id": 88023, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3432, "id": 87991, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3433, "id": 333844, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 509, "len_tokens": 591, "text": "The GE MWF filters for my GE fridge are $52 each. I'm not the kind of person who tries to buy the cheapest possible thing - branded, OEM products have value when they offer assurances of quality, better warranties and better chances of an ethical supply chain. With that said, MWF filters are just some carbon in a plastic tub and $52 is a complete rip-off. These replacement filters work just fine, my taste buds can detect no appreciable difference with the original GE filters (or another excellent replacement filter I've reviewed previously) but my wallet sure can - these will have saved me $120+ over the next 18 months. I got a review sample at a discount as you'll read below, but that calculation is based on their retail price and it's still a no-brainer - I'll be buying them at full retail when I need more.\n\nCouple the above with the fact that GE is notorious for not only paying 0 tax in the USA but actually receiving money back (how can you get money back if you didn't pay any in the first place? scandalous!) from our government, I feel they've ripped me (and you) off enough already. Buy these filters and support a company that makes money the old-fashioned way - making products that work and charging a fair price for them.\n\nTo address the issues raised in another review, you absolutely *must* make sure that these filters match with the model you need. The list of compatible filters is in the listing. Buying them and then complaining that they don't work in a fridge they're not designed for is a bit silly in my opinion.\n\nIf my review was helpful to you, please click the appropriate button below to let me know that it was, indeed, helpful. Reviewing is only fun if I know that it was of benefit to someone.\n\nNota Bene: I received this product at a discount in exchange for agreeing to review it. While the discount is an incentive to review the product, I am under no obligation to leave a positive review nor would I ever accept such an inducement if it were offered. If you see a 4- or 5-star review from me it means I liked the product, period. I *never* do reviews for products I don't need and wouldn't have bought anyway nor do I review products I don't know enough about to leave a useful, detailed review. I take seriously both my reviews and the implied obligation to other Amazon community members to be objective and truthful when leaving them. While my own tastes, standards, requirements or perspectives might not match your own - as is the natural order of things in our wonderfully diverse world - you can rest assured that I took the time to thoroughly examine the product in question, formulate my views on its merits and demerits and express them in as straightforward and frank a manner as I would hope for in reviews I read myself when shopping on Amazon.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3434, "id": 534804, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 450, "len_tokens": 536, "text": "First, full disclosure. I am a professional remodeler and have had a very successful company for 30 yrs. We do 6 - 8 kitchens a yr, from 20k to 150k. So I know appliances quite well, and what my clients are happy with, and not happy with. I have the range now for about 3 months and have used all of the features. First the good\nGood - Quality seems to be quite high as far as materials used. The burners are tremendous and the oven spot on accurate. I verified with a separate professional oven thermometer. The racks in the oven are very heavy duty and adjust easily. The SS is nice quality and all of the materials have a nice \"heft\" to them.\nThe Bad - A few minor glitches. The guides that hold the oven racks were not in their correct position, and the end result was the racks were a half inch out of level. I was able to fix that by reinstalling the sidewall guides on one side and putting them in the correct position. Certainly not a big deal to correct, and could possibly have happened during shipping.\nThe back right burners igniter, would only work intermittently. I could tell that the igniter was actually working, but for some reason, the gas would would not ignite every time as it should. Usually that means that the burner hardware is not seated correctly on the burner, and by redoing it, you can solve the problem. I checked it out and it seemed fine, but then all of the sudden, it started working correctly, and has ever since. So my guess is, it was probably off just enough to make it malfunction.\nEvery once in awhile, the igniters will come on after you turn off the burners. It just started doing this about 2 weeks ago. Weird. I can get them to turn off, if I turn the burner controls off and on a couple of times. Obviously you should not have to do that, and I will keep and eye on them and see if the problem goes away, or if I have to a service call.\nAnd last, a minor annoyance with the oven that should correct itself with a little more use. It pops because of expanding metal while in use. My thinking is that the metal just needs seasoning, and it will quit after that.\n\nWith all of that said, take it from a pro, these are minor issues with an otherwise great range/oven. Nothing else comes close at it's price point, and I've seen ranges costing 5x as much, with many more problems and less quality. Very happy with the product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3435, "id": 78310, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 490, "len_tokens": 578, "text": "I love this refrigerator. I have owned it for a year and a half (with no problems). Below is my opinion based on each feature:\n\n1. French Doors. I love them. THe left door has a flap that sort of flattens out as you close the door to seal against the right door.  Because of the little flap, the right crisper drawer does not pull all the way out if the left door is closed. Alternatively, you CAN keep the right door closed and pull the left crisper drawer all the way out. Anyhow I usually end up opening both doors when i go to the fridge, so it will take 2 hands, but i still love the french door look.\n\n2. Inside water dispenser. Love that too. THe only bad design is the button to get the water is a few inches above the actual dispenser. it is difficult for me to get a glass of water with one hand; i usually hold the glass with one hand and press the button with the other. But i do like this design much better than the 'outside of the door' water dispenser; i think this fridge has a cleaner look. I didn't even notice the inside water dispenser at first, it takes up VERY LITTLE room which is great!\n\n3. Drawer freezer. I like it enough for what I have (bachelorette food like hot pockets and lean cuisines). I expected it to hold a bit more than it really does. I do like the fact that it's wire baskets that hold my food rather than a solid surface; sorta eliminates cleaning.  THe reason i don't TOTALLY love this freezer is simply because if I had a bowl of liquid, i would have to be VERY CAREFUL to freeze it (such as an extra water bowl for my dog). Anything you want to be in the freezer will need to move/slide to get it in there - i have to only fill the bowl 1/2 full of water or else it will spill when i close the freezer door.\n\n4. Adjustable \"no spill\" shelves. These are great. Everything is adjustable which is perfect for me. I adjust them quite a bit actually. Also there is a small lip on each shelf so if something leaks, it won't drip down the back wall of the fridge. I like this idea. Also the shelves pull out a few inches in case you have something in the back you need to reach.\n\nOverall this is a great fridge. It also beeps after a few minutes if you accidently don't close a door all the way. Temperature of both the fridge and freezer are displayed at the top inside of the fridge. Very easy/intiutive to adjust. Those small flaws listed above are very easy for me to live with; i would buy this refrigerator again. And, i love the stainless steel look!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3436, "id": 87143, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3437, "id": 431005, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 411, "len_tokens": 503, "text": "This is my first Amazon review ever! And it is because this product is absolutely ingenious. I, too, was a blow drying zombie. I mean I had it down to a science. I had to sit in front of (my wide open) freezer for exactly 8 minutes with my blow dryer in hand. After the 8 minutes, I had to wait another 10 minutes for the whole line to thaw...wait...sigh....ahhh...let there be water!\n\nBut not anymore. I received the Ice Surrender after 2 days. And I kid you not, this is exactly how it went after I opened it. I was on the phone and my hubby asked \"what are you doing?\" I reluctantly answered \"heating up a cup of water for this ice thingy\" he replied \"LOL\" (literally) and proceeded to laugh at me. The microwave stopped. I pulled the water out dipped the tube in and proceeded to suction the water. After he had a good laugh he says \"you really think that thing is gonna work huh?\" I said \"I'm pushing the tube in as we speak. I certainly hope it works cause if not, we need a new fridge!\"\n\nI got the line in about 2 inches and sure enough, it hit a blockage. I pushed the water in and felt the warm water first then it quickly turned to ice cold water coming out of the spigot. Now mind you I had just completed my sentence as I was thrusting the water in. Then strangely the tube had no more resistance. I pushed it further and nothing...hmmmm...weird. I pulled the tube out pressed the water button and BAM (queue the action movie music here) THERE WAS WATER!! I squealed in excitement! My hubby hadn't even had a chance to respond to my \"new fridge\" request and it was clear and the water was flowing strongly!!\n\nIt took all of 50 seconds and less than 1 tube of warm water to clear what I have spent at least 10 hours, in 8 minute increments over the last year and a half, clearing!\n\nThis will save us a TON of money on bottled water, a whole new fridge and not to mention countless hours standing w/blow dryer in hand!! I am so happy I came across this gadget. No more frozen water lines here and we can continue to enjoy our arctic fridge (we like to keep it really cold!). Thank you very much!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3438, "id": 188907, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 433, "len_tokens": 537, "text": "Have had the unit over 3 weeks now. I wanted to test it before writing any review. Overall, it works well. Shipping time was VERY fast. Item arrived in great condition (no damage at all). Item was double boxed (box inside box) with foam padding in each box. You remove the item from the outer box and place the inner box on the floor and cut the 2 plastic packing straps. The inner-box can then be lifted up - leaving just the cooler and the bottom of the inner-box (unpacking instructions were not provided- but if you know this info - it will make unpacking much easier). The cooler itself looks great with glass front and chrome. I thought the lack of inside light would be a drawback - but it really doesn't make a difference in functionality. I also thought having the temperature control on the back (rather than inside the unit) would be a problem - but it actually works fine - and allows adjustments to temperature w/o having to open the door. Now the the big question: is it cold enough? Well, for my unit- it is. I'm using my unit inside my house (and away from any direct sunlight/heat). There definitely is a significant temperature difference from the coolest part of the cooler (top shelf, towards back near the cooling unit) and the warmest part of cooler (bottom shelf near the door). On lowest (coolest) setting - temperature is 33-34F by the cooling unit and about 39-40F by front door. Drinks come out cool/refreshing - though not \"ice cold\". Important to remember that this is a \"cooler\" and not a \"refrigerator\" The lack of any fan circulation in the unit does have its drawbacks. There is a very slight frost on the cooling coils (inside the unit) that you can feel to-the-touch. But, otherwise, icing does not seem like it will be an issue. As for noise- it's fairly loud when the compressor is running (not \"extremely\" loud - but loud enough that you'd notice it in a quiet room - This is not something i'd use in a guestroom/bedroom) and even when compressor isn't running - there is a slight \"water running\" sound often noticeable. If you need \"ice-cold\" drinks, are using in a outside/hot area or quiet operation is paramount - you might want to stay away from this model. But, for a rec-room/game room, or similar area when convenience and/or styling is a concern and a little noise from the compressor isn't a big deal - this unit should fit the bill.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3439, "id": 87719, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3440, "id": 443266, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 410, "len_tokens": 513, "text": "Form.\nLike other ice makers in this category, this machine requires a fair bit of counter space at about an 18\" square footprint, with needed space to the left of the machine for the exhaust fan.  We use this in a travel trailer, and the cabinet gets a bit crowded.\nThe exhaust hasn't caused any problems heating up the trailer space.\nThe stainless cabinet is attractive (even if it doesn't match the decor, lol),  and the display is easy to see and understand.\nAt around 25 lbs, it is heavy enough to stay put on the cabinet while traveling.  The cord is long enough to give you options on where to plug it in.\n\nFit.\nThe lid feels more solid than on a previous unit we had, and the tray fits well.  The cabinet is well-made.  (Not a lot to comment on, here.)\n\nFunction,\nThis is my second ice machine.  The other one, from a different maker, failed after a year.\nThis one is fantastic.  We had ice in mere minutes, and the tray was full in about an hour.\nThe features on this are limited, but that's a good thing.  The last one had a timer, settable start and stop times, an LCD display and a bunch of other unnecessary and, frankly, annoying crap on it.  Beeped all the damn time.  2 AM seemed to be a favorite.\nThis one just makes ice in, supposedly 3 different sizes.  It has lights for \"Low Water\" and \"Full of Ice\", and for cube size.  OK, \"Tube\" would be more appropriate than \"cube\", but you get the idea.\nIn the matter of ice size, I really couldn't tell the difference between the settings.  I guess it could matter if you had a small container to put it in, but we're using it for ice water in 30 oz tumblers, so...\nIf you are planning to make this ice to bag up and store, this type of ice maker isn't what you want.  The ice it makes is wet, and will form a solid chunk of ice if hard frozen.  The cubes have a tendency to meld together on the machine if left unattended, but it breaks up easily put it in a glass.\n\nI am very satisfied with this purchase, and have already recommended it to a few people.\n\nI was not solicited to write this review (other than the usual Amazon reminder/request) ,and paid full Amazon price for the ice maker.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3441, "id": 445814, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 434, "len_tokens": 599, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R6M2R9E1Z9BJN\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D17t7O4G%2B5S.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71nDV7DmCfS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;This is a little bit bigger than I expected it to be, but it's also not as heavy as I thought it would be!\nIt's very easy to use, and even more simple to set up. All that you have to do is have access to water, it doesn't have to be a water hose or a sink, as long as you were able to put water into the wash part, you're good to go. You can use a bucket if you have to.\nYou are able to do multiple loads at a time, you can have the spin compartment going while the other side is washing.\nIf you fill this up with water, you have to add your detergent and what it's been for a few seconds that way the laundry detergent will dissolve. If you don't do that, because it is such a short spin cycle, you're close will have the residue from the laundry detergent. After you were done with the wash cycle, do you turn the dial to drain the water, it's really simple. Transfer your clothes from the wash bin to the spin bin, and put the little plastic top over your clothes so that it does kind of smash your clothes down. The water will start to drain out instantly, so keep your feet a little off to the left so that you don't stand in water.\nWhen you were draining and out the wash side, make sure that the hose is put off to the side, because it does come out very quickly.\nMy clothes came out smelling more clean and fresh, probably because there isn't that other drains Michael. I absolutely love it! And even though I put more water into the spin side to get the bubbles off of my clothes, it wasn't enough to dull down the fresh scent.\nThis is a lot easier to use than I thought it was going to be, I absolutely love it. And I have found that all of the clothes that I would line dry anyway, I just want to wash in here. And even The ones that I wouldn't normally line dry, I have been watching it here. It's faster, it uses less electricity, and my clothes, cleaner, I say this just because they smell better.\nThe spin on the wash side is pretty awesome, I wouldn't say violent, but I am absolutely confident that my clothes are really truly clean and don't just smell good.\n\nPromotional or discounted product provided to review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3442, "id": 63936, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 388, "len_tokens": 510, "text": "I purchased this item, after going to the \"Orange\" and \"Blue\" brick and mortar stores, looking to replace my aging Panasonic 9.6V impact driver.  I looked at all the other Lithium-Ion based ones in the same voltage class, disliking the Bosch and Milwaukee due to grip size (width), the Skill for lack of an extra battery, the new 12V Ryobi (no clutch), and wasn't going to wait for the upcoming Makita.  One other factor I looked at in buying a new drill/driver, was the other tools available/upcoming and a heavy sway for me was their new Saw based on the 10.8V system.  It doesn't sound like much, but my job as a computer tech/network engineer, I only need a lighter duty reciprocating saw to cut holes in floor tiles and to cut down telco racks.\n\nSo far it has been quite useful in reconfiguring server cabinets, putting a car stereo in my Jeep, and for drilling 1/2\" lag bolt holes in some stairs.  It isn't a power house, but wasn't purchased to be one.  I was actually surprised by the quality of the product and have to say that the 1/4\" hex adapter has very little slop and what minor drilling I have used it with, was very little \"walk\" with the bit I used to for the stairs mentioned above.  The length of run time with the Li-Ion packs has been a real bonus.  Where removing and reinstalling the myriad amount of screws and bolt to install server gear,  I used only 1 charged pack for almost the whole day.  The LED ring is pretty useful as well.  Working under the dash of my Jeep, I didn't have to balance a flashlight on my chest or worry about ripping a headlamp off my head.  The hard case is really nice, yet I find that most situations,  I drop the drill, with an attached battery, and a Picquic bit pack, into my notebook case and have a go-to tool available wherever I am working.\n\nMy only non-issue really is the 21 torque settings, superfluous in practice, since I have only used 4 (3, 9, 15, and drill) and can't foresee using anymore.\n\nI hope their flashlight and impact driver become available soon (am about to pull the trigger on the saw) and I will have my \"whole\" set.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3443, "id": 62197, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 428, "len_tokens": 538, "text": "I purchased the duet washer and the matching dryer 3 years ago.  I spent over $1000 on this washer, which worked fine for about 2 years.  Then, we began getting random error codes on the display.  We'd unplug it and plug it back in and that seemed to work for a while.  2 weeks ago, the error codes F70 and F71 appeared.  The washer quit working altogether and locked our load of clothes inside.  I was able to find a trick to resetting the system to at least get our clothes out of the water. However, nothing worked in getting this machine operational again.  I called whirlpool customer service and they offered A&E Factory service as a qualified repair shop and set up a service call.  The tech came out 4 days later, which is a long time, but OK if he got the machine working on the first try. He did not.  He needed to order a part. In the meantime I'm out $270 and I still need to go to the laundromat.  The part arrived 3 days later.  2 days after that, the tech got back out to my house and installed the part.  Same day, 4 loads later, F70 pops up and the washer shuts down.  I call A&E back to complain and schedule a re-call. They tell me I can't schedule another call today because my ticket's still open (!!!!). I need to call back tomorrow.  So I call back the next day and they can't get someone back out until a week later. I demanded quicker service and was denied by an unhelpful rep. I explained that the tech was going to take a week to get back out to my home and would likely need to order another part, which would be another week on top of that, which was unacceptable. The rep didn't offer me anything but insincere apologies. So, I called whirlpool back to complain about A&E and they told me I was out of luck.  If A&E couldn't bump up my call, there was nothing they could do to make them move any faster. I'm still waiting for next Wed (today is Fri) to have a tech come out and tell me that he needs another part.  So, to sum up, don't ever buy a whirlpool ANYTHING. Other reviews on this unit have VERY similar problems. You might be lucky and have a unit that won't crash on you, but if you do need help with a defective unit, prepare for a month of laundromats and uncaring customer service.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3444, "id": 107802, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 409, "len_tokens": 507, "text": "I don't normally write reviews, but I'm compelled to warn others against buying this washer or the matching Maytag dryer.\n\nTo preface this review, we owned a Maytag Neptune washer and dryer (about $2800 together).  The dryer was perfect, but the washer died many times and after the warranty was up the repair bill would have exceeded $800.  There was a class action lawsuit about these models but we missed the deadline.\n\nThe sales guy told us that the Neptune fiasco drove Maytag almost out of business and it was purchased by Whirlpool.  We were told to not expect any more problems with Maytag as Whirlpool makes great applicances.  This has turned out to be laughably inaccurate.\n\nFirst off, the washer is LOUD.  On spin when new, you could not have a conversation next to it.  Compared to our new Samsung or the old Neptune, it was easily double the noise level.  Even during the normal wash cycle you could hear the clothes rattling around.\n\nBoth the matching washer and dryer have one very annoying function; on both, you have to hold down the 'start' button for 3 seconds before it starts.  Doesn't sound like a big deal but it gets very irritating after a while.\n\nLastly and most importantly, this and other matching maytag washers have a defect in the bearing.  Ours went out at 8 months and the part is on back-order for weeks.  Other reviews mirror our experience.  This is a common problem with these Maytag washers, the parts to fix are NOT available for weeks even under warranty, and the replacement part is the same as the part that went out.  This means it will be YOU paying for this fix after the warranty is up.  If you bought this washer and the spin cycle keeps getting louder and louder or you are hearing 'pops' from the washer then your bearing is on the way out.\n\nIn regards to the dryer, our first dryer vibrated so badly empty that it sounded like we were drying 12 pairs of shoes.  It was exchanged for another and it vibrated only slightly less.  Our previous Neptune Maytag dryer was almost dead quiet, and now our new Samsung is the same.\n\nAfter the Maytag Neptune fiasco and this washer and dryer, we are done with Maytag and Whirlpool (which owns and makes Maytag).  It's a shame as they both used to be great manufacturers of great appliances.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3445, "id": 463232, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3446, "id": 459307, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 479, "len_tokens": 542, "text": "This is the best gas range that I have ever owned. I've had it for a little over a month & it cooks just as beautifully as it looks. It is gorgeous and I love inviting my close friends over to ohh and ahh at it with me. The oven interior is a beautiful blue color making me want to keep the oven light on so I can walk into my kitchen and admire its beauty throughout the day, but to save on energy I don't. I cook more for my family and we now eat more meals at home so it might be making us healthier people plus I think its making my food taste better or I'm now a better cook, but that's just a theory...There are some minor issues that I've had with this range. The cooktop while fairly easy to clean can get scratched very easily. The cast iron grates if not laid on the cooktop just right can scratch it. Which can be a problem because in order to clean it they must be removed and are not the lightest things but they can be replaced without scratching but you usually don't realize this until after you've already scratched it somewhere. One other thing is something that I learned a trick to & its a thing that many other reviewers complained about; the right front burner takes some time getting used to. I have found that in order to prevent it from \"poofing\" loudly and at times quite scarily, is that once the inner, recessed  burner under the glass is lit, which usually happens instantly as with the other 4 burners, immediately turn the burner to the setting you want and the outter flame ignites without a problem or without the scary explosive sound. I tend to use this burner often, as I'm usually cooking for 5 or 6 so its used with a larger pot or skillet which I think its designed for. Oh and one other issue, which is actually something I may contact Electrolux about is that right below the wave tough control board just as it meets the cooktop there is a bit of metal over hang that is actually very sharp. Once when cleaning the cooktop at the rear I cut the top of my hand on it pretty badly, similar to a paper cut when opening an envelope but worse & deeper due to the stainless steel. It would seem that something like a heat resistant silicone covering could be placed over it or at least a warnig in the the user manual. But to eliminate this issue I just ensure that I always wear gloves when cleaning the rear of the cooktop. Don't want to slice my hand open again. But even still I love this range and hope to have it for a very long time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3447, "id": 105871, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 479, "len_tokens": 570, "text": "This washer was DOA (dead on arrival). Bought it with the intent of shipping it out of the US so I did a lot of research and read countless reviews but when I hooked up the washer, all I got on the LCD screen welcome, a beeping sound and occasional flashing of E91 (error code 91). This meant that there could be problem with the control board, or user interface, or both. Apparently this washer was tested before it was shipped to me and I made sure it remained in the original packaging and made sure it waas well protected during shipping to the final destination.\nconsumer reports and numerous customers rated this washer highly so I never envisioned going through the hassle of getting new parts even before doing asingle load of laundry. Because the washer is located outside the US, I have to cough up almost $300 to buy two parts that may help the washer to function. I was hoping Electrolux would have offered to give the parts to me free of charge since I bought the washer in January this year. This washer may be awesome to look at but my experience has been terrible. I will definitely update if the new parts make a difference.\nSo I finally got the parts and the machine won't work. I got three different service men but they all told me the same thing. The parts I ordered were the wrong parts. I bought these parts based on recommendations of electrolux employees.\nfast forward the story, I call them again to let them know that I need to return the parts they sent me in exchange for the right part. That's when the real HORROR began. A customer service rep raised her voice at me for no reason. I then asked to speak with a supervisor and she told me the supervisor was on break. I called a few minutes later and the experience was no better as I was transferred to a number which rang several minutes before saying they were closed for the day and that I should call back within the hours of 8am to 8pm on the next business day. I had called on a business day and the time I called was 5:30pm.\nmy wife called them two weeks later and the story was no different;  rude customer service reps and uncaring supervisors. .\nIF YOU ARE CONSIDERING BUYING THIS WASHING MACHINE, PLEASE DON'T.  BUY A BRAND LIKE GE, LG, MAYTAG,  OR SOME OTHER BRAND BUT DEFINITELY NOT ELECTROLUX. BECAUSE IF YOU ARE UNLUCKY TO GET A LEMON LIKE I GOT, YOU'LL HAVE TO KISS ONE THOUSAND DOLLARS GOODBYE.\nAm I bitter? You bet, how can I spend over a thousand dollars to buy a washing machine that has turned into a white elephant without doing a single load of laundry?", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3448, "id": 479114, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 439, "len_tokens": 556, "text": "This is the exact replacement for my \"defective\" Whirlpool Ice Crusher/Bucket.  My Whirlpool Gold refrigerator is less than two years old and I noticed some white powder clumps floating in our drinks.  I picked one of the clumps out of my drink and found when I pressed it between my fingers, it was a white powder floating together as a clump.  I checked the water coming out of the refrigerator door and it was clear, so then I checked the ice.  That was the problem!  Turns out, the white plastic \"sweeper\" that pushes the crushed ice/cubes into the chute was grinding the bottom of the ice crusher/bucket into a powder and dispensing it along with the ice.  I contacted Whirlpool to see if there was a recall.  No recall.  They offered to send someone out, but made it clear it was not a warranty issue.  $$$  They connected me to a parts distributor that wanted $150 something for the part and then shipping.  I found some other more reasonable options online and then found Amazon had it for under $118 with Prime Shipping.  It was packed well, the assembly was wrapped in bubble wrap in a box within a box with shipping paper.  I simply washed the bucket, let it dry and then set it in place of the old ice crusher/bucket.  Works like new.  I just hope it lasts.\n\nI didn't give it five stars, but only because I suspect it will have the same issue after a short amount of usage as it looks to be a genuine \"Whirlpool\" part.  Any issues I have are with Whirlpool and not Amazon!  I plan on hanging onto the old parts and if this one wears like the original, I'll replace the auger, auger screw and add a nylon washer under the sweeper to keep it off the ice bucket bottom.  It's not like I have half a dozen kids grinding out ice all day long.  This is clearly a Whirlpool problem and I'm just glad Amazon has this part!\n\nUpdate 10/2014: All I can say is Whirlpool really messed up the design of their ice storage/dispensing system.  Mine is constantly freezing in the chute and clogging.  This causes me to remove the ice bucket, which is also frozen to the shaft.  The pressure necessary to free the shaft from the ice bucket is what I think is causing the crusher to shift and scrape plastic into the ice as it is dispensed.  I'm now using graphite spray on the shaft and connector to make it release easier, but frost and ice buildup shouldn't be happening.  Really a bad design.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3449, "id": 87167, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3450, "id": 157311, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 435, "len_tokens": 541, "text": "Bottom line:  30 days later, lots of loads later, and our dryer is humming away - with hot air!  Perfect fit, and delivered a couple of days early.  (The longer version of review follows) This was my first time taking on a major appliance.  Diagnosis of problem was hardest part - everything seemed to be running/working fine, if wet clothes don't bother you.\nFigured out no heat was the issue. On that note, removing this component isn't very hard and it may confirm your problem early without any need for electrical current tester (I didn't do this first).  For instance, if you pull it out to inspect it, and pieces of metal coil are crumbling onto the floor or broken off, thats a problem.  But, learning to use a $15 circuit tester isn't too hard and may come in handy down the road.  Almost ordered just a \"fuse\"; but, when testing the heating element for a closed circuit they say disconnect all the wires from the Dryer Element box - they mean all (top and bottom areas).  I got a (false) completed circuit reading on the element the first time.  Re-read directions, realized my error, and knew Id found the problem.  It was easily confirmed when I pulled the shield away from the dryer body - pieces of wire coils tumbled out.  I ordered and received the part a few days early and in great condition.\nStrongly recommend you search YouTube for video if you are a first time Do It Yourselfer.  You'll probably see the person in video using gloves.  Do it.  There are MANY hidden rough edges and you will nick yourself.  The dryer element was a direct fit.  The hardest part was getting the \"thermal cut off\" removed from the old one...  But, since I'd read up on possible points of failure, I had already opted to replace the Thermal Cut Offs (sold in a pair) and the Fuse since I was \"in the neighborhood\" (these parts tested okay.  However, they are relatively inexpensive; and, apparently, common points of failure  so I considered this to be preventative maintenance.  Even if you buy new Thermal Cut Offs, I suggest you remove the Thermal Cut Off from your old dryer element box - it will give you a good idea how to install your new one.  This will make more sense what I mean when you see the way it \"clips\" in on one side.  All in all - this part worked out great and brought me success - so, now I can add (VERY SLOW) Clothes Dryer Repairman to my resume.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3451, "id": 272727, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 454, "len_tokens": 518, "text": "Do not purchase if your ceilings are over 8  feet!\n\nBefore purchasing this unit I emailed Shoprangehoods.com inquiring about an extension kit.  They would only call me, I could not call them.  I was informed that it was easily done and once a purchased the unit to email them back and they would give me information about the extension, this should have been me first clue that perhaps this unit work not work for my kitchen. I went ahead and purchased the hood well in advance of when is was to be installed to be sure I had proper bracing, venting and that the electrical outlet was positioned correctly.  Unit seemed fine; even though I had read the lights were not the best my wife said they would be adequate.  At this point I emailed the company back to purchase the extension kit.  The price, $65, included shipping and as promised the extension arrived within a week. This is where the problem starts.\n\nThe extension is just another lower unit, this piece is supposed to fit inside the lower unit that came with the range hood. But it is exactly the same size, by design there is no way one could fit into the other! So again I emailed Shoprangehoods.com asking them to again call me.  I asked the person who called how this was supposed to work?  They told me some cutting and bending would be needed for them to fit but they had not instructions on what to cut or bend to make it work.  Im guessing they have never tried to put them together.  I was told that there may be videos on YouTube that showed how to do it, and they would look and if they found any they would send me the link! Of course I never heard back, I had already looked for information but hey  thanks for the helpful tip!  Good thing I did not pay someone to put this think up.  My builder specifically excluded rang hood installations since hes had so many issues, I can see why.\n\nAvoid this cheap junk and resign yourself to the fact that you need to spend a lot more to get something that has better lights and is designed to fit. The manufacturers claim that with the extension it can be installed in a high ceilinged kitchen is not totally truthful - it can be done but it will look terrible. Perhaps it could be done if they had a piece that was designed as an extension, instructions would also be helpful. Im now looking into having a piece custom cut to fix the chimney, depending on the price I may resell this unit and buy a good one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3452, "id": 78411, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 474, "len_tokens": 574, "text": "We purchased our Danby beverage center in Nov. 2011. We shopped a long time for the right one for our small family room area (12 x 20) and found this Danby to be the best product for the price. We had a little bit of an awkward space to fill under a granite countertop and our selections were between this unit and a Frigidaire, which was shorter by a few inches. We would've settled for the Frigidaire if the Danby didn't fit our space, but we were very happy we didn't have to.\n\nOne of the biggest selling points for us was the noise, or lack thereof. If our room is completely silent, you can barely hear the fan running. At first, when it was setting temperature, the fan would run, then turn off, every 7-10 seconds. We had read other reviews that listed this as a problem. However, once the desired temperature was set, it ran less often.\n\nThis unit is in a room where there is a fireplace directly across from it. The fan does run more often when the room is warmed by a fire, but we saw this as a pro, not a con. We want our beverages to be cool when the room is warm, and because the fan noise is so minimal, it's not an issue for us. When there is a little bit of other noise (ie, a TV on), you can't hear the unit at all. We actually wondered if it was still working! (It was.)\n\nIt's very spacious inside. It fit everything we expected and then some. It's a bit tricky with taller bottles, but adjusting the shelves is a nice feature. You just have to make the very top shelf kind of short and the second shelf a bit shorter, too. Then it all fits. We put plastic water bottles on their sides on top and then were able to stand up the beer bottles and 20-oz soda bottles on the 3rd shelf.\n\nThe blue LED light was a great selling feature to us. When it's on, it gives the unit an upscale look.\n\nWe've noticed that it holds a steady temperature of 44 degrees just fine, which is perfect for beer, soda and water. We keep only a few bottles of wine on the very bottom and while those should be properly chilled at a higher temperature, we prefer our wine pretty cold. It's just our preference.\n\nIf this unit has a downside, I'd say it's the plastic wine sleeves at the bottom and the construction of the shelves. If you don't move them around a lot, they should last, but in the store, we noticed that they were falling apart-- probably from too much use. We hope ours last!\n\nWe highly recommend this beverage center! Danby did it right with this one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3453, "id": 59684, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 488, "len_tokens": 580, "text": "My husband, the chef in the family, wanted this particular model and no other. We purchased this product in mid September 2011 and it was delivered by the end of the month. Within one month, we were already having problems with it: error codes occurring during the middle of cooking and having to turn the breaker off and on in order to continue cooking. By early December, I was at Lowes trying to return it. I was told that there was only a 30-day return policy on appliances, however, luckily I had purchased the extended warranty. In January 2012, the entire control assembly for the stove had to be replaced. A couple months later, during cooking, suddenly water would pour out over the right side of the control panel from inside the top of the stove! I don't know if condensation was building up or what, but I started keeping a camera on the video mode at ready in the kitchen to prove to the repair tech's that I wasn't crazy and that yes, it was possible. They finally came out, tore the entire top off and I don't know if they sealed it better or what, but it hasn't done it since then. Then last week, while baking brownies in the oven, the display panel started flashing an error code that involved the stove--and I wasn't even using it at the time! If any one else has one of these ranges, they understand that when an error code is displayed, it is accompanied by an incessant beeping noise. Therefore, while I have now been waiting over a week now for the new control assembly to arrive (the second one in less than a year), I still cannot use the oven/range at all and I still have at least two more days to wait. Bear in mind, I take very good care of this range and even the repair tech told Electrolux rep's that after 8 months, it still looked brand new. Yes, they had inferred that I was mistreating this range. After three repairs for the same part, this range will be \"lemoned out\" and since I still have over 2 1/2 years to go on the warranty, I'm pretty sure that is going to happen. I'm only hoping that by then Electrolux has fixed the problems with this unit and I get one that I can actually rely on. Even then, I still wouldn't do without the extended warranty. I now consider these a must for any so-called \"smart appliance\". One more thing I never learned about till after I purchased this unit. This unit will constantly vent air from the front while the oven is in use. I assume this is to stop the glass top from breaking or possibly damaging circuitry. It is very annoying, especially when one is in front of it and trying to cook on the stove at the same time.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3454, "id": 177265, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 428, "len_tokens": 530, "text": "I purchased this ice maker to replace one in my Frigidaire side by side that stopped working.  The original ice maker was just shy of 7 years old and got a good deal of use (we have a family of six, consume a lot of ice in water and juices, and have a fair amount of family parties.\n\nThe part in my Frigidaire PHS69EHSS fridge was #241709801.  This replaces that part.  It was identical in every way and what arrived was an OEM part.\n\nIf you aren't sure what part you need, the original Electrolux/Frigidaire ones generally have the number on it on the side.  Not the best place.  I had to stick my cell phone in to snap a photo to be sure of the part #, or I could have removed it (a 2 minute job)\n\nThe box was well packed and included the ice maker, fill cup and the white plastic guide which fits on the metal arm of the ice maker.  It does not include any shield which you may have fitting on the bottom of the ice maker.  That is considered part of the refrigerator, so if you have such a shield save it!\n\nThe included instructions were simple to understand.  It includes how to install the fill cup, but mine came installed.\n\nRemoving the old ice maker and installing this was a breeze.  After removing any shelf which might be in front of your ice maker, use a 1/4\" nut driver to loosen (NO NEED to remove) the two screws on which the ice maker hangs.  Then lift the ice maker off so you can reach behind it.  Disconnect the white connector by releasing the snap guides on each side and gently pulling.  When installing the new ice maker, just reverse these steps.  The cables on the connector are color coded, matching what is in the fridge, and the connector only fits on one way, so it is hard to mess up this step.  After you attach the connector, snap the two snap guides down on it.  Then hang the new ice maker on the two 1/4\" screws and retighten.\n\nTest the ice maker by holding the I/O button to I for about 15 seconds.  You should see the ice guides advance.  That's about it.  Wait for a while until the fridge makes some ice and you're back in business.\n\nThis is pretty easy to do and the price on Amazon saves you a more expensive house call from an appliance repair place.  The part comes with a 1 year Electrolux warranty.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3455, "id": 396391, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 379, "len_tokens": 514, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R2OIMPIXIX9P3O\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D1XTusYvq7S.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71mwbPvQCjS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;When you do not have an ice maker, well its a pain. What are your options? No ice in your drinks, refilling those little plastic treys 100 times, or running to the store daily to buy expensive bags of ice, and none of those options are really good ones. I ordered this portable ice maker for counter top to be a solution to my ice-less problem. The ice maker fits easily on my counter without taking up too much room. The ice maker is sleek and is definitely not an eye sore on the counter top, I have had questions asked about it but usually people are just fascinated in knowing exactly what it is.\nThe ice maker is incredibly easy to use, you just pour water in the tank, press the on button, select your preferred ice cube size and hit start. In under 10 minutes I had a few pieces of ice. I did not expect the ice maker to really make ice cubes that fast but I was impressed with the results. I love that the ice maker lets me choose the size of the ice cubes I want. I personally prefer the smaller ice cubes in my drink but my husband prefers the larger so we take turns choosing which size we will make. The ice maker helps to make sure no water is wasted with a recycle feature and lets you know when it is out of water with an alert. On top of the ice maker is a clear top so that you can view the ice and check how much is ready for use anytime you want. The ice maker also comes with a convenient scoop so you don't have to risk spreading germs or cold hands.  The ice maker makes up to 26 lbs of ice a day, if I bought that much from a store that would cost me more than $2 a day. This ice maker saves water, money and time and is simple to use. Overall this is a great appliance and I would highly recommend it.\n* I received this ice maker as a free sample in exchange for my honest and unbiased review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3456, "id": 266138, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 452, "len_tokens": 577, "text": "Updated review:  I have loved using this range - I cook a lot - until just recently.  All of a sudden, lots of things are going wrong.  I am just past the 1 year warranty.  I did not buy the extended warranty.  Problems.... first, the bottom oven light burned out, now the top oven light will come on at strange times and it won't always turn off when I push the button, also, the bottom oven has started taking FOREVER to preheat, and lastly, the \"shut door\" message is coming on for the upper oven and the door is shut.  After giving this range a 5 star rating, I'm changing it to a 1 star.  Here's why.  I want to shout loud and clear, \"Buyer Beware\".  I've now seen online that others are having major issues with this range, issues that are very expensive to resolve, and negative experiences with GE customer service.  I hope I'll be able to revise this rating, but I'm very concerned about where my experience is headed.\n\nFormer Review:  Here are many things I love about this gas range!  It is so nice having two ovens - wow!  I also like the 5 burners (btu range is great - from high heat down to a simmer), and the griddle option in the middle is a nice addition.  The top is easy to clean (so much better than the glass top on my older KitchenAid gas range).  This range looks great in our kitchen - very sleek, high quality.  Love it!  The only thing that I don't like are the small gaps in the very back between the range and the counter top  - other reviewers have mentioned this.  It just seems like a weird design element. Other than that, I am really happy with this purchase.  BTW, we did have to convert the range from natural gas to propane.  Even though we are big DIYers, it was pain and was time consuming.  Glad that part's done.\n\nUpdate (4/18/15)  I continue to feel that this is a 5 star purchase.  Using two ovens at once has been fabulous - I love being able to roast vegetables in one oven and bake another dish in the other.  And again, as I mentioned before, the stainless steel top is so easy to clean and maintain, as long as you don't mind moving the burners and griddle to the side to wipe off the stainless (the burners and griddle are heavy duty, so they have some weight, but I don't mind this).  I just used the griddle for the first time this morning - I cooked three pancakes at a time, and it worked great.  Highly recommend this range!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3457, "id": 398357, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 452, "len_tokens": 586, "text": "Purchased this 15\" Avallon fridge in July, 2017.  I spent several weeks researching beverage refrigerators before choosing this unit.  My first discovery is that there is a monumental difference between a wine fridge and a beverage fridge.  I wanted something to cool drinks into the 30's temperature range so that meant I was looking for a beverage cooler and NOT a wine cooler.  It seems there aren't that many units out there that cool into the 30's and this fridge has one of the lowest temperature settings at 34 degrees.  Would love to have found something made in the USA but I think all of these \"mini fridges\" must be made in China, as is this one.  Now that I have the Avallon installed as a built in, I have been very pleased with my purchase.  At $699 it's a little pricey but probably worth it.  Here is what I really like about this product:  1) It fits perfectly under my countertop.  It's 35\" from floor to underside of my countertop.  The fridge easily slides under and then I adjust it's feet upward until the top of the frig nearly meets the countertop.  2)  I set the fridge temperature setting to 36 and according to the thermometer I placed inside, it has held that temperature for the past month.  3) The inside light works just like my full size refrigerator.  When you open the door the light comes on.  When you shut the door the light goes off.  Perfect.  4) It is not a noisy unit.  I can hear it run but it is not noisy.  5) As others have remarked, it is exceptionally well packaged when it arrives.  It's in a box that is in another box.  The only assembly is attaching the handle and that's easy.  By the way, the handle IS NOT reversible.  Be sure you are ordering the correct RH or LH door swing.  6) This cooler has 3 glass shelves.  They are easily removed and adjusted.\n\nI do have a couple of cons:  1) The faceplate (that covers the controls for setting the temperature, turning the unit off/on, and selecting the inside light color) kept falling off.  Every time I opened the door, there it was lying on the bottom.  A little contact adhesive solved that issue.\n2) the color of the stainless exterior is \"unique\".  It is not a perfect match for the other stainless appliances in the kitchen.  It's not unattractive and it's not a deal breaker, it's just different.\n\nIn summary, I think this is a quality cooler with features and cooling abilities that a lot of other brands just do not have.  I hope it gives good service for years down the road.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3458, "id": 61382, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 478, "len_tokens": 580, "text": "We remodeled our kitchen and went from a wall oven and cooktop to this freestanding range (said it was slide in, but really, it didn't make a diffrence in our remodel) It's the range I wanted and we hunted and hunted and found a great deal as they are discontinuing this 30\" range, so Sears gave us the floor model for 1700.00 (added the 3 yr all inclusive warranty for 250.00 which I HIGHLY suggest you do if buying any appliances, its well worth it!!) So I have my dream range and love everything about it... My knobs are stainless steel so I don't have the melting issue that another reviewer had (stupid of GE to use plastic knobs when they are on the front of the range right above the oven, shame on you GE) The \"cooking oven\" under the large oven that another reviewer mentioned is really just a warming oven and I knew that going in (word of advice, if you want 2 ovens, get that model specifically, this bottom warming drawer is just that, a drawer, very small, perfect for warming plates of food, etc).  If you turn the \"warming drawer/oven\" to 450, its gets hot but I don't think it gets 450 hot, but I'm good with that because I stalked this model for months before I bought it, and the service lady that came out to make sure things were working great (its FREE once a year if you get the warranty)mentioned that was an issue that GE was working on and probably why they are discontinuing this model, to make it better).\n\nThe ONLY con on this range...the controls aren't lit up, not even a little bit which even with my kitchen lit up like a Christmas tree, I still need to really focus on what I am touching.  The controls are very easy to turn on with a touch, and the probe feature is great! I don't have to open my oven door, pull the food out,put my own probe in and wait.  I just stick the oven probe in before I close the door and hit the button and not worry about a thing knowing my food is baked/roasted to perfection! Being stainless steel is another minor issue, but as several others mentioned, keep it clean after each use and you won't have a problem ( I use pledge after I wipe down with soft sponge, it makes all the difference!). It does scratch easily but everyone should know this about stainless steel before buying it anyway, so just be a bit careful, and some scratches can be buffed out.  Also, the Service Agreement/Warranty covers knobs, front plate where the knobs are and anything else that goes wrong, other than normal wear and tear. So buy the range and the agreement, you won't be sorry!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3459, "id": 469973, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 493, "len_tokens": 576, "text": "I was initially drawn to this machine by it's looks, but bought it for ease of use. Samsung and LG consistently get high marks but in everyday use they drive me nuts. For those not familiar with the Asian design aesthetic, it basically goes like this: More buttons + more blinking lights + more beeping noises = more better. Well, in the words of Stan Marsh, \"I thought this was America!\" It is, Stan, and this one is actually made in America too.\n\nThe controls are simple, just go from left to right. Set auto or timed mode, modify the default settings if you want, throw in some bonuses (like delay time), and press play. I did not really need to read the instructions to figure it out, and the silly noises can be turned off. This is also the first dryer I have ever used with an automatic dry mode that actually works. Although the modes are a bit goofy, \"more dry\" equals dry, I'm not sure how you can be more dry than dry but whatever. \"Normal dry\" equals barely damp, perfect for ironing, and \"damp\" equals damp for hang drying. It is really nice that the steamer has an actual water line, not just a tray you fill with water like many others.\n\nThis is easily the best performing dryer I have ever used. The first time I turned it on it blew decades of old dryer lint out of my 30' long exhaust vent, and it blows out so much steam you could build a sauna around it. This thing dries quickly, usually in 40 mins. And evenly, even fitted sheets are no match. It is also very quiet. The only noise that can be heard is the burner lighting, and that is when standing right next to it.\n\nOne final note is a weird warning on page one of the installation manual: \"Place dryer at least 18 inches above the floor for a garage installation. Failure to do so can result in death, explosion, or fire.\" Now we all know garage floors are no more explosive than regular floors and I am not going to build a stand for it that is 18 inches taller than my washer, but since this little gem is not mentioned in any of the sales info I thought I'd pass it along.\n\nIf you are buying this as a set like I did, the features of the washer and dryer to not really match up. The 6000 dryer DOES have a steam cycle and interior light, if you also want that on your washer you will need to step up to the 7000. Also, unlike the washer this dryer DOES NOT come with all of the required connectors. It only comes with the water line, you will need a gas line and exhaust vent. Please don't use a cheap-o flexible vent tube, they reduce efficiency and can create a fire hazard.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3460, "id": 456663, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 433, "len_tokens": 508, "text": "The quality of the Zephyr AK2136A 850 CFM 36 Inch wide under-the-counter vent hood is obvious.  Once installed it is a beautiful addition to your kitchen.  It is powerful and has nice features like 5 minute and 10 minute shut off, as well as two settings for the halogen lights (full and night light).  And best of all is the 6 speed fan.  You probably don't need 850 CFM in daily use but it is nice to know when you smoke up your kitchen you can get rid of it quickly.  Again, once installed it is perfect.\n\nI did say \"once installed\" for a reason - it is not the easiest installation.  It weighs about 45 lbs, and you have to hold it up perfectly centered and level before you can install the screws into the bottom of your cabinet.  You might find it easier if you first protect your cook top with say plywood or thick cardboard.  Then find some sturdy boxes and stack them up so when you place the hood on the top of them you have about 1/2 inch from the top of the hood to the bottom of the cabinet left to go.  I did this because I also had to get the power cord through the hole I made in the bottom of the cabinet at the same time (which isn't easy).  I found it best to first trace the top of the hood and then transfer it to a piece of cardboard (included in the box).  Make sure you also trace where the electrical wires will go through the bottom of the cabinet and of course the vent configuration you will be using.  I decided to stay with the 3 1/2 x 10 vent that was already there (which required a change on the top of the hood [see instructions]).  Also don't forget to open the electrical box in the hood to bring the green ground wire up with the black and white power wires.  You will find that it is rather short and you may need to either replace it with a longer wire or place your power outlet close to where the wires come through the bottom of the cabinet.  I put a 20 Amp GFCI outlet very near the power cord hole in the cabinet on the back wall.  Finally make sure your vent connections are sealed with aluminum HVAC tape.  The hood has a very powerful fan and it will test your vent ducts and any weak point in the connections.\n\nOnce installed you can relax and enjoy!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3461, "id": 136206, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 498, "len_tokens": 588, "text": "Bought this for a lab that is designed to measure water temperature from freezing to boiling, because I figured it was cheaper than me stopping and picking up fresh ice on the way to work every day for several weeks. Tried to set it up on the Friday before lab, and it wouldn't work. It turned on, and pumped water around, but the cooling mechanism never functioned and it would just give me an error instead of actually making ice.\nSometimes you get a defective unit. Maybe something came loose during shipping. I don't know. That's not why this thing gets one star.\nThe one star review is for the deplorable customer service from Curtis International. I called immediately when i figured out it wasn't working. After a long hold, someone answered, and started asking me all kinds of unnecessary questions. Model and serial number, OK, fine, that makes sense. But they were asking me for the original purchase information, and for my personal mailing address, etc. These pieces of information are immaterial, since I merely asked to be connected to technical support so someone could help me debug the machine. The man on the other end of the line told me, repeatedly, that he was unable to put me through to technical support over the phone, because they only work via email. I stressed to him the importance of my situation - that I needed this brand new unit working by Monday - and insisted that he connect me to technical support. He wouldn't. I asked to speak to his manager. He wouldn't do that either. They already had my email address, so I stressed again the urgency with which I needed support, and left it for him to pass on my request.\nTWO AND A HALF WEEKS LATER, I was contacted over the phone by another representative, again asking for my mailing address and other information not at all related to what I needed (they already had city, state and zip code - I can't understand why they'd need street address to answer simple questions about what I can do to make their product function). I told the representative that I needed help TWO WEEKS AGO, and that calling me back now was absolutely useless to me. THREE DAYS AFTER THAT, another representative calls me to try to get my mailing address. And then I got an email, asking for the same information. Nothing about \"we're so sorry that you're having problems with your recent purchase\" or any of the other pleasantries that often come with customer care. Just \"we need this information in order to help you.\"\nSo, in short, the thing never worked from the minute I unboxed it, which happens sometimes. But the company gave me the runaround and refused to be of service. I've contacted our department's purchasing agent to see about returning the POC to Amazon, but if not, we'll scrap it for parts, because that's all it's good for.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3462, "id": 361397, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 470, "len_tokens": 544, "text": "If you want to skip all my whining and cut to the chase, just read the last two paragraphs.\n\nMy Frigidaire Gallery series refrigerator came with our house, and was about a year and a half old when we moved in. Its upper ice maker was already having some problems. Apparently something was frozen, because after we had a 3 day mid-summer power outage and everything thawed, it started working again, but was still unreliable.\n\nWe would occasionally find pieces of plastic and styrofoam mixed in with our ice. After my wife choked on one of the pieces of plastic, I researched this problem online and found out that it was very common. There were even grumblings of starting a class-action suit! I contacted Frigidaire, and of course they said they had never heard of any problem like this before. I told them about my wife choking and said that I could be convinced not to pursue further action if they could just ship me a new ice maker. I am qualified and able to install it myself. They said the best they could do was to give me a 10% discount if I wanted to purchase a new one from them. This still made it over twice the cost of this one.\n\nOnce the ice maker quit working completely, I took it apart to see what was wrong. The ice cube tray had cracked, and each time it filled with water, all the water would run down into the ice storage bin, which became one big block of ice. This fridge-glacier expanded the bin and it would not come out until I thawed it out some. This seemed like a lot of hassle for a fridge that was now around 3 years old. The one at our old house was over 20 years old, and still working great - including the in-the-door ice dispenser.\n\nWhen I was comparing replacement ice makers on Amazon, I was skeptical of this one because the price was much lower than any of the others. Based on the few reviews it had at the time, I went ahead and bought it. When it arrived, I removed the old one and compared them side by side. The new one looked identical to the OEM one in every way. It was easy to install and fit perfectly.\n\nIt has been in service for about 2 months now, and makes ice like crazy. It got put to the test over the holidays as we had a large number of guests for Christmas, New Years, and a couple other gatherings. So far it has worked perfectly. I will update this review after we see how well it holds up over time. At this point I would recommend this product, but I'm not so sure about the fridge itself.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3463, "id": 218031, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 445, "len_tokens": 595, "text": "I bought this appliance to spin-dry hand-washed items; in particular, my hand-knits and hand-dyed/hand-painted yarn. I have an HE washer which gives me little control over the cycles (like spin-dry alone (>:-P) ), but it does have a powerful spin-cycle. As a test, I put some machine-washed cotton under-garments, which I usually air-dry, into this unit to see how much more water it would remove: more than expected!! I am allergic to wool, and am envious of the lovely hand-painted merino yarn available. I bought this mostly to spin out my own hand-painted yarns in cotton, alpaca and silk. My cotton hand-knit articles have also benefitted from a much shorter drying time. It is larger than I would have preferred, but I wanted the power that the smaller unit did not offer.\n\nI am well pleased, except for the brevity of the single-paged photocopied 'manual'. I visited their website and found no instructional information whatsoever; not even a brief PDF manual. I went to You-Tube and watched several video reviews before I was able to decide whether to cut and remove the zip-tie at the bottom of the unit. It was supposed to strap the motor to a heavy metal bar to stabilize it for shipping, but mine arrived loose, which seems to be a circumstance shared by others. Once snipped, the zip-tie pulled free without great resistance. My complaint is solely about the lack of information in both the printed insert and online. Oh, and the styrofoam got everywhere: inside, outside, inside and outside, and spun out with the water. But it shipped without damage.\n\nThe device works well, and the motor did not seem to get hot after I allowed a large DK-weight cotton shawl (Cascade Ultra Pima, ~375 grams)  to spin dry for 20 minutes or so. After its first blocking on a foam mat with wires and pins, it seemed to be dry after 14 hours or so, but I left it for another day to be entirely certain. It dried much more quickly than a recent 50/50 cotton/modal shawl did. I am hopeful that my own hand-painted cotton yarn will be both fun and fast-drying (before and after knitting)! That's my next adventure in yarn (the knitted-on cabled border of my current shawl is going so slooowly).\n\nBTW, the 'manual' says not to use this appliance to spin-dry stuffed animals. Perhaps because it they fall apart the stuffing will ruin the device? I don't know why you couldn't use a fine-mesh bag for a poly-fill-fiber stuffed toy, include two other articles to balance the load, and spin away.  Because I knit toys too; and they get the dirtiest of all.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3464, "id": 110343, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 478, "len_tokens": 563, "text": "One thing I discovered is this part is listed under at least one other model number depending on where you look for it (in my case, a GE part lookup site, where this part number was in the URL but a different one was displayed on-page).  That said it seems to be a pretty much universal icemaker for GE refrigerators, and in my case the Amazon price was well below what the refrigerator repair company quoted, and when accounting for the labor cost they would have charged, I saved upwards of $250 this way.\n\nThe only part of the installation that was confounding was that for my type of refrigerator, the instructions state to remove the plastic bar that runs across the tray and replace it with the one from the old (broken) icemaker. Problem was, that old one didn't quite fit this one right...it was too big, causing it to buckle slightly. I had to cut down the edge of the inner-most tooth to get a clean fit. No big deal, but a slight over-site by the manufacturer in assuming that the strip from the old icemaker would have the exact same dimensions. It's not a huge issue as this is not a moving part...it simply needs to not block the rotating plastic pins in the tray. I'm guessing that most people don't even bother anyway, and just leave the default strip in there.\n\nOther than this minor adjustment, it was a snap. It fit in my freezer right where the old one went perfectly. It came with a new water tube, but I didn't need it. It also came with the wrong water funnel (where the water falls into the device), but it also had the correct mount for me to place the one from my old icemaker in the correct position, so again, no problems.\n\nAll in all, a sort of one-size-fits all replacement that lives up to its billing 99% of the time, and the remaining 1% is easy enough to work around.\n\nAnd as the heading says, DO NOT throw out your old icemaker. You may need to salvage a couple of rudimentary parts from it to make this one fully compatible with your fridge...in fact, the instructions and design of this unit count on it.\n\nEDIT: I just noticed that a lot of the rows of ice that came out of this icemaker were frozen together. This is typically a result of the tray water level being too high, but I could find no adjustment screw/dial for this. Turns out that it is under the plastic cover of the icemaker (there's just one screw to remove, hidden under a screw cover). Once off I found a screw with a \"+/-\" by it, which adjusts the water level. All is well now, but sure wish this had been in the instructions.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3465, "id": 45886, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 399, "len_tokens": 521, "text": ">>03/10/2016\n\nOrdered from seller \"Reliable Retailer\"\n\nPros:\nInstalled it and the dryer works.\n\nCons\nHmmmm, is this a cheap knock off? If so, then I have a safety concern.\n\nOn the original part, there are letters and numbers printed/molded right onto the item, while this one I ordered is completely missing that(blank), which Whirlpool said it should not be.\n\nI also spoke with Whirlpool's parts dept \"RepairClinic\". They stated that all their parts come in a bag that will either have the Whirlpool logo or name on it.\n\nNeither Whirlpool or their parts dept have heard of knock offs with these low cost parts. But you never know and due to safety concerns, I mean, I can use a paperclip to make continuity, but will the dryer stop due to over heating with a paperclip? That's what a proper thermal fuse is for. I rather pay more for a genuine part than to risk a fire hazard.\n\nAfter I installed this thermal fuse, the dryer worked again, but again, how reliable is this thermal fuse, if it's not genuine? Is my family worth saving a few more dollars over for?\n\n>>03/15/2016\n\nSpoke with Whirlpool again. They said that what bothers them the most is that the actual replacement part has no printing/molded numbering/lettering on it and the size is different. They do sell refurbished parts, but the plastic part of it should be original, where they will remove the gut of the part to fix, therefore, the numbering/lettering should be there on the plastic still. They recommended not to use the part I received.\n\nI rated it 3 stars at first due to uncertainty, but after speaking with Whirlpool and seeing the different parts that I have, I feel that it now should be no more than 1 star.\n\n>>03/19/2016\nReceived and installed the genuine Whirlpool part from their parts dept \"RepairClinic\", it had the printing on the item, bag has the Whirlpool name and barcode.\n\nConclusion:\nSee the product review image of the differences and decide for yourself. Look at the little circles on the middle part, which is called \"Ejection pin mark\", they do not match up with the genuine Whirlpool part. Also, another thing I noticed is that the plugs fits a little looser on the knock off, while they fit at the same tightness with the original old broken and genuine new replacement parts.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3466, "id": 330769, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 446, "len_tokens": 535, "text": "About 3 months in to use, and overall I like the fridge, especially when priced against alternatives and compared on reliability, noise reports, etc.  However, it's not perfect.  I'll list the minor quibbles:\n- the shelves have large holes in them, for what I'm assuming is temperature flow to make all levels consistently cold.  However, they can cause some minor instability for a beer bottle if it sets just right on that hole.  I'd rather have had smaller holes but more of them. Not much of a problem except when loading it. This likely has to do with load bearing of the glass panels, so it is what it is.\n- while the fridge is quiet overall, ours has a very peculiar noise.  When the house is quiet, you'd swear a kitten is stuck behind the unit: it makes some very odd rising, high-pitched mews, and on a fairly regular basis (every few minutes or more).  If there is any sort of background noise, this is not noticeable, but if there's no one talking, no TVs on, and folks are still, we can hear it from as far away as an adjacent room.  Fortunately it has not freaked out the 3 cats we have.  ;)\n- the blue light doesn't do a lot for illumination in the interior for my older & minor red/green colorblind eyes. I'm not sure what provides the blue color to the light - the lens or the bulb - but if I could change it for a white light I will/would.  Now if I would just let it empty out a bit more to provide better access to the light to resolve that question...\n- the shelf adjustability would be better if there were more optional slots for the glass shelves.  For me, unless I remove one of the glass shelves I only have one of the three shelves where I can stand up beer bottles, and only standard beer bottles.  Larger specialty beer bottles must lay flat, so nothing with sediment on those shorter shelves.\n- The location of the lock is not very convenient - it would have been better to have at the top of the door, but if the concern was esthetics or impact on the ease of removing contents from the fridge, then I understand.  The lock has a tongue that sticks out about 3\", fortunately only when the door is open.  Would have been nice if that could have been recessed a bit more or done away with entirely.\n\nIf none of those issues are enough to chase you away, and they really aren't for me either, then I'd recommend this fridge so far.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3467, "id": 458451, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 424, "len_tokens": 525, "text": "Amazon is great. Purchase products all the time from them. However my wife and I purchased a brand new KitchenAid refrigerator from Western Appliance in August 2008. From the moment we got it, we've had problems. First the inside light malfunctioned, then the digital readout. The repairman has been here 4 times to try to repair it and now that all the parts have been replaced still has no idea what's wrong with it. The ice machine quit working on the third service call, and we have no ice.\nI have made numerous phone calls to Western Appliance, spoken to Leo, the salesperson, and the manager. They just tell me to call the Repairman.\nThis Saturday will be the fifth visit by another repairman from a different service. We get the runn around when we ask for a replacement from western Appliance, repair service center and KitchenAid. Even though we purchased an extended warranty. I even called KitchenAid myself and was told that even if we purchased the warranty, it does not cover lemons or replacements.\nTheir service is atrocious at best, and now that they have made a sale, we are virtually ignored or fobbed off. Worst of it is, the repair company under their contract has no idea what they're doing.\nThis is the worst service I've ever encountered from an appliance store or manufacture. DO NOT BUY ANY APPLIANCES FROM WESTERN APPLIANCE or KITCHENAID. You will regret it if it should ever malfunction.\nIt is now Novenber 2008 and I have NO LIGHTS, NO DIGITAL READOUT, AND NO ICE from my brand new KitchenAid refrigerator, and am waiting for a \"second Opinion\" from another repair co, while being ignored by Western Appliance.\nI am so frustrated with all the waiting and phone calls I've had to make, not to mention all the work time I've lost waiting the 4 hours window for the repairmen to show up. I was on hold one hour with the mother company only to be told I had to get a second opinion from another repair co. How long does this have to go on before we can get a functioning refrigerator?\nWestern Appliance, South Bay Repair and KitchenAid should really look at their practices and know that they are losing many potential and future customers because I will tell any and all who will listen about the shoddy way they treat their customers.\nI also intend to notify consumer agencies as well as the Better Business Bureau, because I've had enough of their stall tactics.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3468, "id": 478338, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 431, "len_tokens": 542, "text": "I purchased  Bosch model SHX3AR75UC because of its ratings in Consumer Reports. I no longer have this model. After having problems with the bottom rack spray arm hitting the bottom rack when it's loaded with dishes, Bosch replaced the dishwasher.  Twice, Bosch sent a representative to investigate this problem before they replaced the machine.\n First, they sent me replacement wheels (not the slopped kind which came with it) which eliminated the derailing issue I was also having. Unfortunately, it did nothing to fix the spray arm hitting the basket.  The first representative they sent, after seeing that the dishes had been loaded properly and witnessing the  problem I was having,  recommended  a replacement rack; but the new rack, which looked exactly like the one I had, still encountered the problem with the spray arm.\n\n The second representative came and after confering with the office, manually straightened the spokes holding the wheels and pushed the bottom of the rack upwards.  This finally, eliminated the spray arm hitting the basket, but it really messed up the contact of wheels to rail!\n\nBosch replaced the dishwasher with a new model just out, SHX5AV55UC.  It was installed yesterday.  Since I was told that my problems with the previous model were probably an anomaly with that particular machine, and, I also expected the problem had been dealt with in the new model,  I welcomed it, anticipating a happily ever after!  Sadly, after loading it and spinning the bottom rack spray arm, I find I'm back with the same problem.\n\n For those who wonder what kind of dishes I have, they are ironstone, about as heavy as fiesta ware.\n I'm writing this because I have just had enough!  Before I sat down to write this,  I had loaded 4 plates, spun the spray arm-- and no exageration--the spray arm is hitting the bottom of the rack!  It is so unbelievable, I will post a video of it!\nI have read other reviews of dishes not getting clean, could it be, in some of those cases, the arm is not spinning?  If anyone is having similar problems with the flimsy bottom rack, would you post it.\n\nPrevious to this dishwasher, I had a Kenmore and had no issue with it  except for the noise.  And although I can put up with the Bosch's not drying plastic, the beeping, all of which I was aware of--  I do like the quietness of the Bosch, the design, and other features which others have listed, as well as their customer service. But this particular problem I'm having makes this dishwasher unacceptable.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3469, "id": 241286, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 421, "len_tokens": 506, "text": "The kit fit my Whirlpool Cabrio perfectly and was significantly cheaper (~40% less) than at online parts stores - don't hesitate to buy this if your washer has started roaring like a jet engine during the spin cycle.  If you have any modicum of mechanical experience or understand how bearings are installed, this is a simple job.  There are a couple good videos on YouTube if in doubt.  The included directions are actually pretty good but, they describe the repair as a new, non-corroded and rusted unit.  If your bearings are bad it is because the upper seal is leaking, and you will have corrosion which will likely require some improvisation to get the wash tub, shaft, and bearings out.  In my case, the wash tub was stuck to the shaft which was corroded to the upper bearing.  I ultimately spent more time getting the wash drum and shaft out than actually installing the kit.  It seems like there are a lot of questions related to removing the drum if it is stuck.  I just tipped the machine on its back and used a 3 lb sledge to beat the shaft and wash tub out.  The bearing can then be easily knocked out and the races cleaned.  After the shaft and wash drum were out of the machine, I set the tub upside down on blocking and beat the shaft out - you are replacing the shaft so you don't need to worry about damaging it, although it should be common sense to not go crazy with the sledge and risk damaging the drum.\n\nI did not buy the separate bearing install kit.  Again, if you have experience installing bearings this is straightforward.  The bearing tool would unquestionably speed up the installation process but, I don't think the time savings justifies the price unless you turn around and re-sell it on ebay.  If you are uncertain, buy the tool as it makes this a doable job for anyone.  I used the old bearing to set the new upper bearing and ended up simply using a rubber dead-head mallet to tap the bottom bearing in - you just have to pay attention that the bearings are going in straight.  Outside the time spent getting the shaft and drum out, and cleaning up all the corrosion, it took about 2.5 hours to change the bearings and reassemble the machine.  As others noted, don't be stingy on the sealant on the upper seal and let it cure 24 hours before using.  Good as new.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3470, "id": 87367, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3471, "id": 135916, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 463, "len_tokens": 538, "text": "This product is fantastic?\nI am not a salesman for this company neither do I have anything to with them but simply purchased this product by faith because I was not sure how a 440 CFM will perform in open concept kitchen.\n\nOne of the biggest problems we had was that the microwave oven exhaust fan couldn't handle the cooking aftermath odor and we lived with it for 8 years. This was a mistake in optioning when we built our home. As the microwave began to die we started hunting for a real hood range of a commercial grade ability. We had already installed a hood range, a rated 900 CFM on hour second kitchen at another level of the house and pardon me to say it is a hurricane; so we were a bit skeptical on the 440 CFM. Also, particularly this was going to the main floor kitchen and were not sure about the look and location of the controls, but the price was competitive and so we bought. Remember, once it is installed I is a pain to remove and you know the rest.\n\nSo we got the delivery and the electrician had I installed. The electrician commented right away that the motor is huge and he has never seen a motor that huge and he has installed a few in his line of work and including the one he has at home. That was a notice.\n\nAfter the install, we put it to test by cooking right away. We do use a lot of spices from around the world, India, Africa, Caribbean, cajun, for example. At the rate with wish the exhaust fan handled the cooking and still handles it is amazing; not a thing of drop of smell. It gave the 990 CFM a run for its money twice over.\n\nThe dial button is right UNDERNEATH the front panel and hidden, this gives it that buttonless look. This is cleverly done in this age of push buttons touch pads so one doesn't feel less of the i-thing.\n\nOur other range hood is the Cavaliere with feel sensitive front panel buttons, but the Broan is just just as fantastic.\n\nI will not hesitate purchasing it again. I read where someone complained about the light after 3 days etc. you know what? At the time the electrician installed it, he went to show me the light setting for night and cooking and the night time 4 watt bulb blew out, I went to Home Depot, bought a pack as they sell it and replaced it with one. It is a bulb folks.\n\nWe have had it now for 2 weeks and it is working fantastically. If we have a complaint, I will return and update, I doubt it. Highly recommended.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3472, "id": 9207, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 443, "len_tokens": 550, "text": "I had the smaller version for 2 1/2 years and after much abuse it finally stopped spinning (... and I mean ABUSE)!  It stopped spinning after I shoved a comforter into it (yes - I should have known better).  And that one I bought for $145 delivered.  (UPDATE:  all the old one needed was a new belt! So my best friend will be getting a few years of service out of it as well!).\n\nThis time around I decided to get the larger model and how happy am I?  I had it in my house and doing wash 1 1/2 days after ordering (and that was with normal shipping).\n\nI don't have (and did not with the other one) any of the issues others have seen with leaking etc.  First of all, I read directions.... There is some small assembly.  Pay attention and make sure everything is tight and you won't have issues.\n\nDO NOT USE NORMAL DETERGENT..... BUY HE only and you'll be fine.\n\nAs with my previous one, I am happy as a clam.  Cannot to this day, 2 1/2 years after buying my one, understand why I put up with laundry mats for so long.\n\nIf I hadn't overstuffed the old one (time after time after time), I am sure it would still be working today..... And I don't mind, I was spending $100 a month at the laundry mat, so it paid for itself in six weeks.\n\nThis one I got for $245 delivered, so it will pay for itself in 10 weeks.  I can live with that.\n\nGo for it.  You really have nothing to lose and if you are spending 80-100 bucks a month at the laundry mat, you would still make out even if the thing broke after 2-3 months.\n\nMakes sense to me.\n\nOH - A QUICK TIP FOR THE DRAIN HOSE - I tie it to the water intake hose... therefore it is always in the sink and I never have to worry about it coming loose...  I tie them together about 5-7 inches from the end.  Then the end of the water intake hose goes to the faucet, and by default the end of the drain hose sits in the sink tied to it <grin>\n\nFor other great info - clcik SEE ALL REVIEWs from me (there's only one) and its for the other model, on there I have picutres and part numbers for connecting to a bathroom sink (and it all applies to this model as well).... as a matter of fact, the wheels I bought for the first one, fits this one without any adjustments at all.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3473, "id": 333338, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 414, "len_tokens": 509, "text": "Foremost, while I have infinite faith in Amazon, I have virtually none in UPS, FedEx, USPS, or the even zanier fly-by-night delivery companies. So, my worries began the instant I placed my order. Would the glass front be shattered? Would there be dents? Would it work?! So, I was washed in relief when I unboxed the fridge to find another box. Within that hard slip-cover box were strong cardboard supports for the sides of the fridge AND a Styrofoam sheath covering the glass area. The entire fridge was also covered in a plastic bag to prevent any scratching. Therefore, do know that this company and Amazon have prepared for all eventualities! Phenomenal!\n\nAlso, do know that if you are like me (petite), you may need an extra person to help get this off your porch and into your home. There was, literally, no way that I could lift it. So, if you are tiny and limited in your lifting capacity, do have another person in the ready to give you a hand. (It looks small, and even though it is empty, it is HEAVY!)\n\nWith a perfect delivery conquered, we were on to the item itself. The look is stylish and polished. And, the capacity is ridiculous! This holds SOOO many more cans than I pictured. We had three cases of San Peligrino (of varying flavors) and two of Coke. It barely made a dent! For us, this is terrific (since we are all lovers of carbonated beverages). By morning, all drinks were delightfully chilled.\n\nWe considering adding this to one of our spare bedrooms for fun (kind of a mini-bar effect for our guests), but we could not reconcile the look of this with the overall decor of the room. So, we decided to use it in the game room (a finished basement). What is relevant here is that we noticed that it operates fairly quietly. When we first plugged it in, I actually leaned down and put my ear to the back. Granted, the television was on, but I think this could be an option for those who want that \"mini-bar\" experience without disturbing the sleep of their guests.\n\nThis is a fun, whimsical fridge that is both functional (by having this in the game room, it saves the kids a NOISY two floor climb to the kitchen) and quite attractive. This is highly recommended to any family seeking a neat beverage cooler for their home, summer home, or cabin.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3474, "id": 359291, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 398, "len_tokens": 506, "text": "We purchased all of our appliances in September, 2007. We started having issues with the ice maker & it would stop allowing water to come out the front about 6 months ago. Although I figured the water was freezing, I looked at my filter sheet in the utility room & noticed we never replaced the filter for our GE Fridge, so 8 years, 5 1/2 months was way over due. I ordered a 3-pack of these filters on Saturday March, 19th, 2016 & received the package on Monday, March, 21st, 2016. Not bad at all. As it says on the instructions, I used tap water to partially fill the filter, let it sit for about 2 minutes, added a bit more tap water, installed the filter & ran about 1 1/2 gallons of water, just to make sure there wouldn't be charcoal particles left in the line. The filter works great. As for the taste, I can't tell the difference between bottled water, or our household water supply.\nThe Refresh Filter Model Number R-9991 works with our GE Side By Side Refrigerator. This model doesn't have the O-Rings on it. The O-Rings are on the Unit where the Filter fits onto. [They only make the two types, with/without O-Rings]. They need a side shot so you can see how the top looks. I believe I looked at another seller who had the side shot but this seller had the best price, plus Prime, so shipping was free, 2-day shipping. Next, I'll be buying a Brita Water Filter Pitcher, along with the Faucet Mount Water Filter. 1st I'm buying Test Strips to see how bad our Waterford, MI. Well Water is, & how bad the bottled water we've been using is. Back to our Fridge, the water taste's great.\nI am going to get test strips because of a video short my daughter sent to me on facebook all about bottled water & the readings that a mom got on 8 different brands. Along with a 1 gallon container with filters in side of it, we can further clean our tap water. Trust me, I was shocked to see what the readings that were on 6 of the major brands sold throughout the US. All in all, our water at least tastes great now. These filters do the job & our ice maker & water dispenser works normal again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3475, "id": 266157, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 493, "len_tokens": 584, "text": "The tech that ge sent couldn't fix it and then left me with a leaky range.  My gas company was called and they shut the appliance valve off and red tagged it.  It means I cannot use it until it's repaired.  Customer service has been unsympathetic and rude.  I'm waiting for a senior tech to have a look at it. Did I mention that luckily I was home when the stove/range first started with the gas leak problem?  Yes, I was getting dizzy and then I smelled it.  I quickly turned off the main valve that time.  What if I had been at work?\n\nOriginal review was written April 22, 2014.\n\nHere's the update 1/5/2015 : it's been a year that I own this stove. I own the advantium microwave that matches it too.  I love, love, love this stove/oven but hate GE customers lack of support.\n\nI hate GE customer service and repair runaround.  I had my main valve closed and went without using my appliance for about a month before it was all sorted out.\n\n They eventually sent a senior tech with the right detectors and it quickly started blaring an alarm indicating that yes, my stove/oven was leaking gas. The problem was \"a faulty safety valve\". Isn't that interesting that the safety thing on it wasn't working or broken. Which means I had a dangerous unit which was wrongly diagnosed by their less experienced tech that first came to look at it. He wrote on his notes that there wasn't anything wrong with it and anytime I called customer service they'd read those notes and treated me like I was crazy. So in the end after bad reviews I posted on sears website and consumer affairs website, calling the gas company and threatening them, they finally sent the senior tech who had a differing opinion than the first tech. The Senior tech found the problem. He said it was that the safety valve was broken and so it was allowing gas to continuously flow into and then out of the oven through the seams on the closed door. He let it build up and when he opened the oven door (the unit was off the whole time) a gust of gas came out, he got nervous and ordered me to quickly open the windows. He needed to order the faulty part and come back to replace it.  He did come back to repair it and The stove is now good.\n\nI don't think I'll ever buy another GE appliance though, because I can't trust them to back up their product or care about their customers safety.\n\nJust a note:  I didn't buy this here at amazon I bought it from sears who by the way were willing to send their own technicians and were very nice but I felt this was a manufacturer problem and responsibility and that's why I stuck it out with making GE take care of it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3476, "id": 88519, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3477, "id": 87119, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3478, "id": 461008, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 501, "len_tokens": 582, "text": "UPDATE: Four years now and no problems at all. The faucet/hose stopped leaking.  Another tip I forgot to share, which I picked up from another dishwasher's reviews, is to leave the door closed for a while after the cycle ends in order for the dishes to dry without spots.  I generally start a load before bed then unload the clean dishes when I get home from work the next day.  Also, having plastic dishes in the load reduces the chances of the dishes drying, so if there's plastic and glass mixed instead of just glass, be sure to crack the door to let everything air dry.  I also run only hot water when washing because I want really sanitary dishes.\n\n=======\n\nI did a lot of research before purchasing this product and finally decided on this model because it did not have a window and I read enough reviews of models with windows leaking that I decided a window wasn't necessary. I've had my Koldfront counter-top dishwasher for a year and 3 months and I can say I'm very happy with it. The only time it overflowed was my fault - I had put in too much soap. I've since started using Cascade packets and they work perfectly - no soap flowing out of the machine and my dishes come out beautifully clean. Of course, I put the dishes in pretty clean to begin with, without any stuck-on food or anything. But even when I've left a little barbecue sauce on a plate or forgotten to rinse a juice glass out, they've still come out completely clean. I generally use the standard wash setting.\n\nThe only complaint I have at this time is that the faucet connector leaks now and didn't at the beginning. However, this could probably be fixed by hands stronger than my own or a pair of pliers.\n\nYes, the machine is noisy, however that can't be much helped, given that it has no insulation around it. I had very little trouble setting it up - I thought I needed an adapter and went to the hardware store to find one, however, they pointed out to me that I simply needed to remove the faucets original casing and the adapter that comes with the dishwasher would fit on. I had asked my landlord to help with this, but he didn't even realize this so I didn't feel like an entirely silly girl.\n\nI wash a load about every other day. Yes, you have to figure out your own configuration of dishes - they won't fit in the machine like the pictures. However, I am able to get 4 soup bowls, 4 dinner plates and 4 glasses (tall or short) into the machine at once, without any trouble. It does seem that wash cycles are quite long, however, I don't recall how long the wash cycles were with a traditional dishwasher. I usually try to run mine at night or at some time when the noise won't bother me.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3479, "id": 13222, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 515, "len_tokens": 597, "text": "I purchased this when remodeling my kitchen and replacing appliances. We switched from black appliances to stainless steel, and along with it, tore out our older black Broan range hood and installed this to replace it.\n\nWe had no issues with our older hood, other than the color no longer matching. Aesthetically, this new \"Allure\" hood is significantly more modern looking than the older Broan we replaced. The design is smooth looking and modern, but not overly flashy to the point where it will look out of place even in an older kitchen. The finish of the stainless looks great and feels to be thick enough to be durable. Installation was a breeze, but I would recommend having a second set of hands to help hold it up while you put the first screws in.\n\nThe hood functions great too. The two new larger lights in the front are much easier to install and much brighter than the tiny halogen lights in my older Broan hood. Instead of putting the fan in the middle of the hood, the new hood has a larger fan located in the back of the hood. The controls are simple to operate; one 3-way rocker switch for the light (high, low, off) and one 3-way rocker switch for the fan (high, low, off). There is a simple indicator light that alerts you whether the fan and/or light are switched on, and this does come in handy. One of the things I love about this range hood is that the fan is remarkably quiet when on the \"low\" setting; the sound of food simmering in your pot or pan will likely be just as loud as the fan if not louder.\n\nThe only thing I decided to deduct a star for is that this product was designed to be used as either a top-vented product or a rear vented product. That would be excellent, except they didn't design the seals well on each section. Ours is used as a rear-vented product. To use that, you pop out the piece of sheet metal that blocks the rear vent, and leave the sheet metal covering the top vent in place. The unfortunate problem is, the sheet metal opening isn't sealed well, and if you install it as is, you'll have an air leak that will allow some of the air in the fan to seep out back into the kitchen as opposed to out of the vent. This is easily solvable by using your own aluminum tape and carefully covering the edges of the sheet metal on the top to seal off any potential leaks. Since it mounts up against the underside of a cabinet, the tape will not be visible at all after installation, so it's not a big deal. But I think the company should address this by either providing tape to cover up the unused opening, or some kind of tighter seal already built in the product to prevent this.\n\nOverall though, these Broan hoods are significantly cheaper than most competitors, they look great and function well. Four stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3480, "id": 477942, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 445, "len_tokens": 537, "text": "I've purchased a number of appliances over the years, so I've had the fortunate (or unfortunate) opportunity to experience installation and delivery services from a number of vendors.  J.B. Hunt provided service that far exceeded my expectations.  My prior experience with home improvement stores and other retailers was really put to shame by J.B. Hunt's professionalism.\n\nJ.B. Hunt called to schedule the appointment.  They were professional from the beginning, asking the necessary questions to make sure the installation would go smoothly.  They also answered all the questions I had and provided a phone number that I could call if I had any other questions or needed to reschedule.  A typical delivery time slot (four hour window) was given, but they said it would likely be one of the first deliveries in that time.  On the day of the delivery, they called around 11:30 and promptly arrived around noon.\n\nUpon arrival, the installers were friendly and professional.  It was raining that day, but they rolled out a floor protector from the entry door all the way to the kitchen where the range was going to be installed.  The guys even were slippers around their shoes.  Installation took about forty minutes, which might seem like a long time for anyone that has experienced an appliance delivery before.  However, these guys made sure they got every detail right.  Unlike my experience with other appliance installers, they took the time to make sure it was perfectly level and installed properly.\n\nThe installers took care of everything like it was their own home.  They protected the flooring like no other appliance delivery company has ever done.  In the past, I would have had to provide any power cords or other necessary install items.  However, they provided the power cord.  I just sat and watched them take care of everything and honestly, even though the installation wasn't free it was still cheaper than what other retailers would charge.  They took care of the haul away of the existing unit, but would have been more than willing to place it elsewhere if I wanted to keep it.  The new range was protected from the rain and they even wiped it down when they were finished.  The installers tested all of the burners and the oven before leaving.\n\nI wish I had known about J.B. Hunt's services prior to the purchase of my other appliances.  It would have saved me time and headaches.  I was pleasantly surprised and would not hestitate to recommend their services to others.  I realize that the installation experience might vary with different cities and regions, but I truly got the feeling that J.B. Hunt and their employees cared.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3481, "id": 310533, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 478, "len_tokens": 563, "text": "I had been receiving the dreaded OE error on my LE WM2010CW intermittently for some time.  I was able to unplug the washer to reset it or clean out the filter and be back in business.  However, the last time the error arose, I could not get the machine to finish a cycle and manually draining the machine has pretty much ruined my wood floor.\n\nLike others, I did some reasearch and determined the nature of the OE error--the drain pump had failed.  Before ordering the part, I was confident there were no blockages and I watched several YouTube videos of others making this repair and was confident I could handle the task.\n\nThe process of installing the pump after disconnecting and draining the machine is to remove the screws holding the cover of the machine, (located on the back of the unit), sufficiently removing the front control panel to get access to the screws holding on the front panel of the unit, removing the spring clamp securing the door gasket, the door sensor connector and eventually the pump.  Washing machines aren't that complicated.\n\nI found my unit disassembled slightly differently from the YouTube videos.  If a part wasn't coming off, locate what is keeping it on (usually a hidden screw) until everything is out of the way.  The hoses and harnesses for the pump came off pretty easily and i and I used the opportunity while the unit open to clean out the inside, which had accumulated some grime and soap that I presume overflowed from the detergent drawer.\n\nThe pump itself was easy to replace and overall, the process was pretty intuitive once I understood how to get inside.\n\nI was able to do the entire job with a Phillips screwdriver and a set of pliers.  I was concerned about replacing the spring clamp that holds the gasket for the main door.  It took a little bit of adjusting but forming rings with zip ties to pull the spring instead of the special LG pliers worked great for me.  I also learned that the polarity of the motor connection doesn't matter when you replace the connecting wires (but I marked them when I took them off just in case).\n\nDelighted with the outcome.  My washer works perfectly now.  If you can use a screwdriver and are organized and methodical to keep track of the screws and the order of things, this is a doable job.  Hardest part was I stacking and moving the washer out of the laundry room so I could access it.  The actual dismantling, installation and reassembly took a little over an hour and it I had to do it a second time, I could probably handle the job in 40 minutes.  Sure I saved at least $300 doing this myself and did not have to wait around for a service call.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3482, "id": 541519, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 458, "len_tokens": 579, "text": "My previous machine was a KENMORE Top-Loader that lasted an incredible 18 years.  Then, when it was necessary to replace this antiquated laundry hero, I considered a newer high efficiency machine, and ultimately settled on a not-so-cheap LG WM3370HWA, which lured me in with its advanced features.  I felt it might provide an edge cleaning set-in stains, and handling sizeable loads, while reducing impact on the environment.\n\nAfter four months, problems began, with the washing machine and matching dryer, so I called LG support, and they had me place my telephone against the machine and push some buttons so they could listen to tones the machine produced, to find out what was wrong.  Okay, so it told them I needed to change detergent amount and settings.  Problem solved. Temporarilly.  Another 10 months... right after the washing machine was off warranty, it began screaming, as loud as an abnoxious high-pitched piercing siren every time it spun the clothes!  I contacted SEARS, where I purchased the LG Washer and they callously informed me... \"Well, these machines don't last forever, seems to me, you were just unlucky with the machine you bought, and you just got a bad one, there's nothing we,re going to do about it!.\" They refused to help me further, refusing to accept any additional calls I placed to SEARS.\n\nI then tried to contact LG directly, and found their support line required that I input a cell phone number where I was willing to receive regular text messages (advertising?) from LG.  The automated LG system then announced if I refused to leave a phone number where I was willing to receive text messages, the call would then end.  I did not respond, and the LG voice responded in a very abrupt, loud tone, GOOD BYE---...\n\nI then checked with a local repair center and duscovered bearings go bad, with corresponding cost equal to what I paid for the washer new.  Unfortunately, since the machine was still fairly new, many of the parts are not yet available on the market and I would have to wait another 3-6 months, for them to be made available by the manufacturer, according to this repair shop.  This simply emphasized  the mistake I made in purchasing an LG Washer.\n\nI strongly advise against anyone considering either an LG WM3370HWA, or any LG product, period, due to observed inability to assure quality, poor longevity and value for the price paid, and for inadequate or non-existent customer support to enable post-sale repair problems.  It concerned me with the WM3370HWA, that following my initial contact, I was not able to locate a single LG Customer Support center, other than the one described.\n\nFor these reasons I will not recommend LG under any circumstance.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3483, "id": 87471, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3484, "id": 434847, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 469, "len_tokens": 533, "text": "We bought this to replace an OTR microwave that didn't suck up anything. Seriously, if we did anything more than boil water, our smoke alarms would go off. So we bought this to keep ourselves, and our two dogs, from going insane each time we so much as looked at the stove.\n\nThis took me and my husband all weekend to install, including 4 trips to Lowe's. We took down our microwave and realized it had a rectangle output, so we had to get some ducting from the main vent to this. Part of the reason it took so damn long was because of the way the builders installed the vent stack to begin with, so not the fault of this hood. However, there are a couple things to note as I found the instructions less than stellar. Some of these might only apply if you're doing an under-cabinet mount.\n\n1. There are two small screws on the top vent. Remove these before installing. No mention of this in the instructions, but it can be difficult to maneuver the extraction once the hood is installed. Trust me. The duct should slip between the two cylinders on top and then you screw them all together. Yeah that didn't happen. We just used shiny ducting tape to keep it all in place.\n2. You might want some nuts for the screws that go in the top. We actually installed it with the screws coming down from the cabinet and added nuts to keep them all in place. That was easier than trying to go the other way.\n3. Make a template of the screw holes in the back and another for the holes on top from the cardboard box the hood is shipped in. Ideally templates would have been provided, but we were able to make do.\n4. As others have mentioned, the sticker on the front left some lovely residue. Even after using goo gone, I could still see the outline. The way I got rid of it was by cleaning the hood with vinegar and then wiping it down with a thin coat of olive oil. No trace of the sticker now!\n\nTonight we put this fan to the ultimate test. I seared chicken thighs for about 10 minutes before transferring to the oven, made a glaze from the leftover juices plus some other ingredients, and stir fried snap peas. I don't think I could have done even one of those things before without setting off the smoke alarm, but this hood allowed me to do all three with no worries.\n\nOne day I hope my dogs will get over their trauma and not run and hide every time we turn on the stove. Overall, I'm super happy with this hood as the memories of installing it quickly fade.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3485, "id": 322380, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 461, "len_tokens": 570, "text": "I initially rated this range two stars and now Thor fixed the problem and I've raised it to 4 stars.  The Thor engineer was great at working with me and getting me the parts.  It now works beautifully..\n\nHere was my initial review:\n\nThis is a schizophrenic review.  On one hand, the range looks great and the top burners work well.  On the other hand, Thor has just admitted to an igniter problem on the front left and right burners.  If the flame is too high, the igniters continue to spark.  They say they have a solution and we'll find out next week when the new parts arrive.  The broiler has a hot spot in the center so it is difficult to get an even broiling.  The oven is 17 degrees lower than the what is set on the knob but works well if you place your shelf in the bottom half of the oven and set the temperature 17 degrees higher.  Adco, the service vendor for this range, is responsive, but the repair person we got in this area is horrendous.  To be honest, it was Adco's second choice as the first choice was not available when we first needed service.  Thor even keeps their service vendor in the dark about problems.  The repairs we had to fix the igniter and oven temp problems were not necessary and the repair person wasn't bright enough to know that.  It is now three months since our purchase and the unit is still not fixed correctly.  That said, when it is working, it is great.  Adco told me that since this is a relatively new line, they are working out some of these issues.  But I hate to be a guinea pig.\n\nIt is now May 2016 and it is fixed!!!!  I saved a bunch of money but I now have a range that works as well as a Wolf for almost half the money.  Again, the Thor engineer was great at helping fix this problem.  It required new burner assemblies on the front right and left burners, and new orifices.  I changed them myself, but if you are not handy and have a 17mm wrench, then let the service guy do it.  Be sure to change out the burner supports from the old burners to the new ones.  I also changed out the simmer orifices and they sent a nutdriver for that purpose.  I stuck a piece of masking tape in the nutdriver to hold the orifice in place while putting it in.  The whole change took me about 5 minutes, but I knew what I was doing.\n\nNow, I strongly recommend this range with the new burners....  I can't give it 5 stars because I did have problems in the beginning...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3486, "id": 345011, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 392, "len_tokens": 501, "text": "It seems like Thermador has a staff of people that goes on the internet and erases any reference to a cheaper replacement for its own filter for its side by side refrigerators. For some reason, a generic or cheaper version is impossible to find on a reliable basis. Even when you think you find one, there's always some review for my specific fridge that says \"buyer beware - this generic filter doesn't fit your Thermador and leaks all over the place - don't do it, just pay Thermador for their ridiculously priced filter! Trust me an learn from my mistakes as I'm a verified Amazon purchaser\" Thermador's filter number is #REPLFLTR20 and specific current model is #00750673 as of June 2017 (replaced #00752595 00655179) and this filter is ON SALE on their website for the low low low price of $108 down from $135.\n\nThat said, I don't feel like spending $216+/year for filters for my fridge. I hunted and hunted and saw that this Everydrop 3 might fit my fridge and took a chance. I CAN CONFIRM THAT THIS EVERYDROP 3 IS A DIRECT AND PERFECT FIT FOR MY THERMADOR FRIDGE. The filter cap you need to swap out from filter to filter fits perfectly, the filter fits in perfectly to the fridge, it is the exact same shape and size as the REPLFLTR20 with all the same features, there are no leaks, etc.\n\nI'm sure some Thermador employee will come on here and say that their genuine REPLFLTR20 filter will make all your dreams come true with magical pixie dust, and this EveryDrop 3 on the other hand opens a portal to the Dark Dimension allowing demons to infiltrate your household, but this EveryDrop 3 is good enough for me. I ran 5 gallons of water through the filter - after 1 gallon the water was running clear, but just decided to keep running it. I'll probably flush two more gallons through for good measure. I'll report back if something goes wrong or the demons do appear.\n\nIn case there's another Thermador owner searching for a cheaper replacement filter, I have a Thermador Professional 48\" side by side fridge and freezer #T42BD820NS10.\n\nThere might be some even cheaper generic filters that might fit (that replace this one), but $32 each is cheap enough for me for a \"name brand\" EveryDrop.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3487, "id": 569768, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 459, "len_tokens": 550, "text": "Liked: size, drawers, lighting, flex zone drawer is great, freezer. All great, BUT...\nDislike: some of the most basic elements are poorly designed or implemented. The in door water & ice totally suck.  Water easily sprays all over & there's no overflow collection tray underneath (just a small divot in the door itself that will hold MAYBE 3 thimbles full of water which means with regular use, you have to constantly wipe the front of the refrigerator because of water dripping down and if you have kids, you know how that will go. Now my favorite, the ice is the single worst feature (and something you never expect to be an issue in a >$3k fridge!) The ice ALWAYS comes out slightly melted, weird shapes (I affectionately dubbed them ice turds), and strangely colored white with a little clear here & there which seems to suggest it has frozen, thawed, & refrozen?  I think this might be because of the way they implemented the ice maker to give you more door space, but frankly I'd much rather sacrifice that and get some decent ice out of a $3,000 refrigerator!  Also, getting into the ice maker itself is a big pain. It's not easy to remove and take down the entire compartment and again it causes a big mess. It's just hard for me to imagine how anyone producing refrigerators for any amount of time or any company that did any sort of usability testing would allow this to go out to Market, especially for the price tag! Lastly, while the refrigerator is very spacious, the spacing between the shelves, at least for American Products, is just a little short in height. This means you end up getting less usable space. I have to fold the top of my milk cartons to slide it on the top shelf for example. I know this may sound like a nit, but living with it day-to-day, trust me, it's kind of a pain. I probably would have returned the refrigerator and asked for a refund but I just got tired of dealing with it. When we originally got the refrigerator, we had to have it replaced (4 weeks) as it was damaged Inside the Box. The box was not damaged, so the damage was done at the factory and then packaged up. Again, very disappointing for Samsung who I thought better of. So, bottom line, if you're reading this and contemplating this refrigerator, I would recommend finding another one. It looks great, and I have had good experiences with other Samsung products, but this is not a good one. Especially for the money.  I think I'm being fair about this product and I wrote this to hopefully save other people some grief.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3488, "id": 87743, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3489, "id": 450932, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 427, "len_tokens": 500, "text": "I purchased this product from Walmart 7 months ago. I tried to post this review on their website but was denied. I've tried more that once and stayed within guide lines. Don't ever trust Walmart's Customer reviews they are biased.\n\nMy Keggerator stopped working 4 1/2 months after I purchased it. It was extremely loud and often heard it running at night. I had many a sleepless night listening to the machine run. The temperature regulation on it is a small dial on the back with no gauge. I had to buy a separate thermometer to figure out the temperature because the temperature of my beer would fluctuate greatly. Perhaps this is why it broke.\n\nAfter it broke I called Haier 7 times before they would help me. On the 7th time I told them I was not going to call them anymore but instead call the Better Business Bureau. Every Time I called them they told me that they could not find any repair man in my zip code and a support manager would contact me with in 24 to 72 hrs. . Every time I called them I would get someone speaking in broken English and I finally asked them what country they where in which was the Philippines. They told me they are a contracted customer support for Haier. When I asked to talk to someone from the company they said I couldn't do that but I would be contacted with in 24 to 72hrs. Hmmmm. I smell something Fishy. Then I went back to the Haier web site and looked for any address or phone number that was not a 1 800 number. No luck. Look your self. I e-mailed them twice and they replied with please call our customer support number. After the 7th phone call they did call me back. I still have a broken product. Now I'm waiting for approval by email to see whether I will get a new one or not. Instead of been passed around from person to person via phone, I've now been passed around a couple times by email. Each person asking for  a picture of the serial number on the back, my Call number (you get this the first time you call customer support), and a copy of the receipt. I don't know if they are dragging this out on purpose or what so my warranty runs out. They have 5 months left to fix my problem and I still have warm beer in it.\n\nI will not ever buy from Haier ever again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3490, "id": 87823, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3491, "id": 361847, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 422, "len_tokens": 519, "text": "I bought the HLP23E, which is the same machine for all intents and purposes, this is the \"new and improved\" version.  I hope so!  After less than two years, the internal exit hose clamp broke and I had to pay $88 to have it replaced, as the washer had to be opened and a different, stronger clamp had to be installed.  The clamp cost $2.  I was slightly irritated.  After 2.5 years of normal use by a single person, the buttons broke.  They are cheap, cheap plastic.  The entire top has to be removed and a new one put in it's place...two hours work ($250)...and then there is no new face plate, so the old one had to be peeled off and half stuck on the new one, so I have to pull the face plate taught with my thumb before pushing the buttons.  The machine is now 3.5 years old, and the buttons are less than one year old and they are hesitating...meaning they are pressed and nothing happens.  If you just push harder, they will break.  Now, I have to start looking for a new washer, and the only portable ones available are cheap plastic buttoned ones.\n\nNow, other than that, I love the machine, but I have paid for an entire second machine and it still won't function free of extreme maintenance for five years.  It's an arbitrary number, but the sign of a better quality machine.\n\nI have seen glowing reviews about Haier portable washers, and I agree, when they are first purchased, but nobody else has returned to tell you if they worked long term.\n\nI am looking to get the smallest normal washer I can find, as they say a Y-hose can convert any washer to a portable.  I just want to be able to wash my clothing and hang it on my dry racks in peace without having to have the washer fixed constantly in the middle of winter.\n\nI wish these were better made as I love it, and I don't want a huge monstrosity permanently next to my kitchen sink in my tiny apartment, but I have little choice, and the cost of a regular machine will be something I can't really afford, but laundromats are not cheap either and you risk your clothing being less than fresh smelling as they are never cleaned.\n\nI am deeply, deeply disappointed and the company could care less.  I have called them multiple times over the years...too bad, there is nobody in management to contact.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3492, "id": 485129, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 394, "len_tokens": 527, "text": "I purchased this stove 2 years ago.  Very pleased at first with only gripe being the big pan surface was at the rear of the cooktop.  Not a big deal just takes a little getting use to.  Then, after 6 months or so I had company and we were cooking a huge meal using oven & cooktop.  Then it started beeping......beeped every 10 seconds and would not quit.  I then needed to turn on another burner on cooktop and it was all locked up.  Nothing.  Shut it all down and 15 minutes later it finally quit.  with a little embarrassment I finished meal.  Christmas came and same ordeal.  Called before the one year warranty and got it fixed.  Repair man suggested I get extended warranty for the fix was about $ 500.00.  Did so and thank god!  Worked great for another 6 months and then the dreaded BEEP.....BEEP again.....Good thing I got the extended warranty.  But to have to pay $ 300.00/year to keep on cooking on top of an already expensive stove is hard to accept!  They came out again....twice.....no fix.  they informed me that if they replace the part it will happen again.  I got a hold of Maytag directly to replace a faulty, under extended warranty range.  \"Nope sorry sir, our warranty is for one year.  Not all appliances are guaranteed to have no issues\"....WHAT!  No I am starting to BOIL.  (No pun intended....well maybe)  So what happens is after my oven is on and heated up for a while it starts beeping and then it locks up and I cannot use anything on the cooktop.  Locks up totally!  Good thing I purchased the extended warranty through Sears and after many emails & phone calls I was just informed that I will get $ 1,500.00 credit at Sear to purchase a new stove.  Not 100% the total MSRP but I am going to jump at it.  Got to!  They obviously know the issue for this range is \"Discontinued\" on Maytags website.  Sorry to say but this Maytag repair man was not the loneliest repair man out there!  Better get a new marketing point!  So unfortunately I am stuck with getting an induction stove that does not match the rest of my appliances because Maytag does not build another induction range....Bummer!  So that adds to my sad review.  Keep on looking.....", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3493, "id": 149044, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 430, "len_tokens": 519, "text": "On the web site, the product appears to offer a great value; but in the long run it is not.  (1) the product arrived with the wrong size glass, thus delaying the contractor on my remodel (2) advised Amazon, three weeks later second glass arrives, again wrong glass, contractor charged me for service call and preparing installation again (3) advised Amazon, gave them the cut out size for the glass needed, product arrive within ten days. Contractor could only schedule a weekend install date because he was booked, extra charge for the weekend install. (4) installation book is only good for a fire starter, totally worthless; there are no real installation instructions, common sense, a mechanical mind, and having construction tools/skills are needed for installation. (5) upon the removal of the taped coating on the stainless steel chimney, scratches, and dings were clearly visible (note: this part was placed in a safe place after removing it from the box), the contractor was able to pound out the dings (not completely) but not the scratches; all at an extra cost. (6) after installation, upon the removal of the tape holding one of the lights in, the light came out; the contractor was dismayed at the poor quality of light, and after thirty minutes was able to reinstalled the light without it falling out; extra cost to me. (the only thing holding the light in was the tape, not its internal clips).\n\nUpon final install, the fixture looks good and the fan and lights work well.  Note: upon a web search of the product, and the name of the seller, there were no hits.  The seller is only known to Amazon (a name search did disclose the name existed, but no address or phone number; so who is the seller?)  Good luck in locating better installation instructions, and finding parts. I thought the name Eureka was the same as the Eureka Company that make vacuum cleaners, not so.\n\nThe installation cost me an additional $250.00 dollars because of the wrong glass and broken light, thus the product is not a good value. Do not forget the extra 40 days my kitchen's ceiling was torn apart waiting for the third glass to arrive.\n\nThe only reason the product is given two stars is because the seller did promptly response to my email to Amazon (within 24 hrs.) on both occasions and because the product is true to its description.\n\nIf you are looking for a good value, easy installation, and no problems with shipping, then this is not the product for you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3494, "id": 397823, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 450, "len_tokens": 577, "text": "I have always purchased my refrigerator brand name (GE water by Culligan) brand replacement water filters when they needed changed. I was always skeptical about purchasing other brands because I wanted good clean water and ice. But that comes with a price. I decide to look on Amazon and see what other brand I could find at a better price, but ultimately had to be high quality. I found this GE MWF SmartWater compatible refrigerator filter  by Sunny Shine. I know the name sounds a little strange but I looked past that point! It's just a name. Ok, when the filter came in, I opened the box and found a tightly cellophane wrapped filter. Without a a doubt, a great first impression. I opened op the paperwork that is included and was very pleased that there is a Performance Data sheet that certifies it meets the NSF/ANSI 42 standard. I haven't seen this certification on other aftermarket brands of filters. Another thing I liked is that there was also a set of stickers with the installation months so it was easy to peel the correct label and place it on the filter rather than writing on it. I removed my old filter and compared it to the new... it looked identical in flange sizes. So, I installed in in my refrigerator. After installing a new filter, I always drain about  gallon of water out of the system to flush any loose carbon particles from the filter. I was impressed by the lack of visible particles during this step! Next was the taste test... The taste was perfect! It was clean and refreshing without any chlorine flavor. Well, needless to say, I am a convert now. I am very impressed with this filter and will be ordering my replacements as needed. I have already placed this item in my Amazon wish list for easy ordering in the future. I would highly recommend this filter that is concerned about quality and cost! If this review helped in your decision, please press the voting button at the end of my review. Thank you.\n\n  I have agreed to and am required to tell you that I received this item for either a reduced purchase price or for free in return for my honest, unbiased opinion.\n\n  If at any time after this review I change my opinion of this item, I will return and edit my review to reflect my new findings. I promise you that I will do my best to describe the items to the best of my ability to give you an informed decision before your purchase.\n\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/GE-MWF-SmartWater-Compatible-Refrigerator-Water-Filter-SSF5110-2-Pack/dp/B018KTECBU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">GE MWF SmartWater Compatible Refrigerator Water Filter (SSF5110 2 Pack)</a>", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3495, "id": 88215, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3496, "id": 360329, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 446, "len_tokens": 544, "text": "I purchased my GE Side-by-side French Door Refrigerator back in 2008.  For the past year, the integrated ice maker that is inside the refrigerator has been making strange popping sounds and I've had limited ice and alot of ice buildup between the assembly and tray.  At one point I had to completely defrost the ice maker box because I couldn't remove the ice tray box.  Although it's a GE Refrigerator, the Ice maker part is made by Samsung.  This assembly part actually makes the ice (7 cubes at a time) and dispenses it into the tray.  For me, I believe the issue was that not every cube was getting dispensed and when it went to refill the assembly with water for the next set of cubes, some of the water was spilling or spraying outside the mechanism and around the assembly.  This caused the entire tray and assembly to freeze together and restricting it from being pulled out or making more ice.\n\nThe installation is very simple.  Just make sure you confirm this part will fit your model.  The model number is on the inside left wall of the refrigerator.\n\n1.) Unplug or shut-off refrigerator from Fuse Panel.\n2.) Pull out Integrated Ice Tray\n3.) Remove plastic panel on the left side of the wall of the ice maker using a phillips screwdriver.\n4.) There are two wire harnesses behind the panel.  Unplug the wire harness that is connected to the icemaker assembly. This is 2nd connection; furthest from the front.\n5.) Remove the wire from the guides all the way back toward where it connects to the assembly.\n6.) At the top of the assembly, push the tab down and pull the entire assemble toward you.  The entire assembly should slide right out.  If not, check to make sure the wire is not still stuck in one of the harness guides.\n7.) Using the two circular tabs at the top, slide the new assembly into place.\n8.) Replace wire back into the guides and attach back to harness.\n9.) Reinstall plastic panel with phillips screw.\n10.) Turn refrigerator back on.\n11.) Before reinstalling the ice tray, there is a small reset button on the top right side of the assembly (at the front) that you need to press and hold for a few seconds.\n12.) Slide ice tray back into the slot.\n\nThe ice maker has been making great, large ice cubes for us again and we no longer hear any popping or strange noises.\n\nLike many Amazon buyers, I take leaving reviews seriously.  If you find this review helpful please answer the \"Was this review helpful to you?\" question below with a \"YES.\"", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3497, "id": 458347, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 438, "len_tokens": 539, "text": "Update after the repair:\nWe found a different authorized repair company and they did a fine job. Of late, we have taken to doing a lot of bread making and baking and this is working out great! The Grand Marnier Souffle turned out perfect and so did the various artisan breads.\n\nThe biggest advantage is the smooth gliding racks. It is such a great feature.\n\nOriginal Review:\n\nThe 3rd digit in the temperature display on my Electrolux Icon Designer E30EW75GSS2 failed with few of the segments not lighting up within 4 months of it being purchased and installed. Stuff can fail and I wasn't concerned about that. But, then I saw the other review which seems to point to the same issue and that got me worried. This could be a sign of design issue. But, that is not the main concern either for me today. Very poor product support trumps poor reliability of the products. I have 2 other Electrolux Icon appliances at home and now I am very worried. Prospective buyers - BEWARE!!!\nI reported the issue to Electrolux Icon and it is yet to be fixed, but the entire process is terrible. This are the problems I have encountered so far:\n1. Called Electrolux and they promised to ask a local franchise of Mr Appliance to do the warranty support. They promised to provide the reference number to them. Called Mr Appliance and they didn't have the info from Electrolux. I had to give it to them.\n2. The technician visited the house, removed two screws and tried to remove the control panel. It wouldn't budge. He just put the screws back and said he has to order a new panel which will typically come in 3-5 days.\n3. Called on the 5th day to find out the status and they promised to return my call with status. Never did.\n5. Called Electrolux on day-10. They put me on hold to talk to Mr Appliance. They promised that the technician will call me back by next morning. They never did.\n6. Called Electrolux on day-12. They ordered the panel to be shipped to me directly overnight. I asked them to send me an email with tracking details and call me and schedule an appointment for installation. They said that they can't do that as they don't have access to the tracking details and the call center handles in-bound calls. After few requests to talk to the supervisor, they agreed to call me.\n7. Replacement part arrived next day promptly - first promise kept by them. But no one called to schedule an appointment as yet.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3498, "id": 66790, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 494, "len_tokens": 553, "text": "Just got this in yesterday, haven't got to use the cleaning system as of yet, but it looks like it will do a bang up job. product is exactly as advertised.\n\nI live in an home built in the 40's, When they decided to put the washer and dryer in they put them in the center of the house. They put the vent in the wall at floor level put and 90ed it down and then immediately 90ed it to run half the width of the house (about 12 feet).The vent was plugged when I moved in the house, so I just put Pantie hose on the end of the hose. Last year I tried to clean it out with a homemade tool, I thought I had it clean and run the dryer through the summer (and burned up my dryer). When I hooked up my dryer this year It just pressured up. I tried and tried to clean it out with my home made equipment, but had only minimal success. I saw this tool on Amazon and grabbed it. I have used and abused this tool, I used it in ways that the instructions clearly state not to. I did do some damage to the tool (not beyond repair or usefulness). When the damage occurred I was clearly abusing the tool. I had brought out about a plastic grocery bag of trashy lint when the brush quit working. the lint had been wet and compressed to almost a cardboard consistency. I put the obstruction remover on and connected it to the drill (against manufactures instructions) I ran it until it hung up, removed it and run the brush again. I would get about three passes with the brush and start all over again. This tool removed all of the crap in that galvanised steel vent tube.\n\na few other tricks if you have a stubborn plug like mine. The instructions state that you should run in and out one rod at a time. If you try to pull this out with the drill running and without dismantling the rod you will have a twisted pretzel on your hands. This did not damage the rod though. also putting to much pressure on the rod will disfigure the rod. I did put a twist in one link of rod, however it did not slow down its performance. If you need to run the tool in and out do so without the drill, slide the tool in to the clog and run it turn the drill off and pull out by hand. This worked great for me. I also bent the obstruction remover, not beyond repair and it still took more abuse.\n\nIf you have a dryer vent that is plugged with regular old soft lint it would be no match for this tool. If used as recommended it should last for many years.\n\nI would definitely recommend this tool to any one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3499, "id": 383453, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 464, "len_tokens": 567, "text": "We love this dryer!\n\nOur regular dryer started making screeching noises a coupele of weeks ago, and we haven't had the time (or money) to get it fixed yet.  As we head into winter, it's a little too cold to consistently keep drying our clothing on an outdoor rack, either.\n\nSo, I looked on Amazon for a good solution and found ... Dr. Dry.  I was a bit skeptical at first, I must confess - a drying rack with a heater?  Seriously?\n\nBut now that we are using it every day, I must say that Dr. Dry has won us over.  It works way more quickly than I had expected (as long as I am using it to dry normal weight, wrung out clothing.  Blankets and towels and soaking wet items are going to take longer ...)  Clothing that comes out of it is truly wrinkle free, since it dries in a hanging position.  That's a BIG plus for us - less ironing to do!!\n\nI have it sitting in the bathroom and it's both pleasantly quiet and does a great job of heating the bathroom a bit as a side bonus.  I had been concerned before I got Dr. Dry that it would drip water all over the place and I'd need to situate it over a drain.  This isn't the case; Dr. Dry has a heavyweight clear plastic bag that goes all the way around the clothing and inflates with hot aiir when you turn it on.  I hang the wet clothing over my bathtub until it has stopped dripping (or just wring it out VERY, VERY well) and put it in.  There is an amazingly large amount of hanging space, and the extra poles you aren't using can be folded down to make the unit a bit more compact.  (It's about the size of a large adult standing in the room when it's fully expanded).\n\nThe plastic bag goes all the way around the clothing, including under it to catch drips - and there is an extra baffle over the heater to keep water from dripping into the heater unit.  I love that the heater has a timer, and will automatically shut itself off when it is done running.  And I love that it's relatively quiet and gently vents the heat through the top and warms the room.  :->\n\nBasically, I love everything about Dr. Dry and you can't beat the price!  He's energy efficient as well (especially since the \"waste heat\" goes into our room and not out a dryer vent into the backyard.)  He can dry a whole washer's full of clothing and it's such a sturdy, well-designed machine that I expect to use it for many years to come.  I'm very impressed and grateful for Dr. Dry", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3500, "id": 298470, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 440, "len_tokens": 561, "text": "We were ready to buy a new refrigerator. but saved $2,200.00 by installing this COMPRESSOR START RELAY.\n\nSymptoms:\n1. Our eight year old Jenn-Air with French doors with freezer on the bottom, was not holding food properly for the last few weeks, and getting worse daily.  Since there is no thermometer in either the 'fridge section or the freezer section, we bought a couple of simple thermometers from Amazon.  These show current temperature and also record the high and low temperature.  These verified that the internal temperatures were not what was set or desired.\n2. My wife was noticing frost - not ice - on many of the frozen items,  Ice cream was soft.\n3. Used a flashlight to look under the refrigerator in order to view the condenser coils for this model.  Many models, especially those with the freezer on the top will have the condenser coils on the back,, probably exposed.  Over time dust will accumulate on these coils.  This can interfere with the condenser operation and make the compressor work harder. Ours were covered in dust, had to use both vacuum and high pressure air to clean (only two inches of space under this model refrigerator).\n4. Once the refrigerator was moved out from the wall, I could hear a clicking about every two or three minutes.  The sound was coming from the compressor which we had exposed by removing the rear cover panel.\n5.  That clicking sound is the compressor starting then stopping and restarting every few minutes.  You may have heard this in your car's air conditioning system and is known as \"short cycling\".  Short cycling can be an indication of low Freon caused by a leak in the system or an iced up condition on the evaporator coils.  However, there are other items that can create the same symptom; bad control panel, bad compressor starting capacitor or the COMPRESSOR START RELAY.  The relay used by Jenn-Air, Maytag, Whirlpool and just about every other manufacturer have a reputation for failure.\n6. As much as I hate R&R (remove and replace) repairs, it is difficult to check the relay and replacement is easy and inexpensive.\n\nRepair:\n1. Very easy to replace the COMPRESSOR START RELAY.  Plug and play unit,  unplug the refrigerator.  remove wiring harness clip, remove COMPRESSOR START RELAY.  The capacitor is attached to the COMPRESSOR START RELAY and can be removed and installed on the new COMPRESSOR START RELAY, (the capacitor can also cause the symptoms if it is bad, so you might want to replace it as well).\n2. Reinstall the COMPRESSOR START RELAY, cover panel and you are done.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3501, "id": 87735, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3502, "id": 60769, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 466, "len_tokens": 564, "text": "I purchased two of these hoses to replace two (still good) rubber hoses on my nine year old \"Kenmore\" washer.  As I purchased these from \"Amazon\", they are listed and sold as ONE hose each.  If you wish to replace both the hot and cold water hoses on a washing machine, be sure to order TWO of these hoses.  Because these are stainless steel braided (clad) hoses, they should be far safer from bursting for far longer than plain rubber hoses.  I have seen the water damage from burst rubber hoses on washing machines and it is not a pretty sight.\n\nI priced these same hoses at my local \"big box\" home stores and these are far cheaper for the same listed specifications so I decided to give these a try.  Despite some other reviews, I had absolutely no trouble at all installing these two hoses.  I found them to be very flexible and they both came with rubber washers installed in both ends of the two hoses.  I am rather \"handy\" so I installed them myself.  They will fit standard water valves and standard (as they are on my \"Kenmore\" washer) water input spigots.  I installed and tightened them by hand and then gave each end an extra quarter turn with channel lock (pump) pliers.  I have had NO leaks or drips since install or to now, a month later.\n\nI have only had these hoses installed for one month so it is far to early to know how long they may last.  In my experience with being a \"handy man\", these hoses seem to be of very high quality for the price.  They seem to be of the very same quality as the ones I saw at the \"big box\" stores that were priced a lot higher than these.  These two hoses that I received from \"Amazon\" are made in China but so was every other hose of this type I saw anywhere.  I even asked a plumber friend of mine about \"American Made\" hoses and he laughed and said \"Good luck finding any of these made in America\".  By the way, this same plumber friend thought these looked to be a great buy too.\n\nAgain, it's too early to know how long they may last but these seem to be very good in my opinion and I especially liked the price.  So, as I continue to hope they will last, I would recommend them.\n\nUPDATE: I'm still very pleased with these hoses.  It is now June 6th, 2017 and I have now had these hoses installed for one year and 9 months.  These hoses could of course fail at any time but I'm convinced these hoses are far safer and will probably last a LOT longer than the two rubber hoses they replaced.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3503, "id": 542344, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 462, "len_tokens": 590, "text": "I did quite a bit of research before getting this washer. The wife and I love how well the old 90's Maytag dependable care washer and dryer worked. The washer has been slowly going out for the last 6 mo. I couldn't rig it up anymore and needed a good washer to replace it. It's 20yrs old 5yrs with us, it had a good life.\n\nI work for the rail road, which isn't known for being a clean job. I needed to be able to clean the soot off my work clothes, and do it in the first wash. I don't want to rewash my clothes several times in one of these HE! washers I kept reading about.\n\nI wanted something reliable. It seems like reliability isn't a factor in any review website. I kept reading reviews about the top rated washers with a 1yr warranty braking down between 10-18mo. Well not this washer, 5 year warranty for most stuff like repair and controls. 15 yr for the transmission. So don't spend $500+ for something that will last 2yrs. Buy this and it may make it into your toddlers first apartment.\n\nAs for specs I was worried about the 3.3cu.ft drum. With all new washers being 5cu ft or more.  As it turns out it's bigger than my old Maytag. It measures about 21\" wide and 14\" deep (max load).  Agitator was a must, need to move clothes to wash them. With the stainless steel drum we don't have to worry about chipping the porcelain drum anymore.\n\nElectronic controls seem more precise than the mechinical timer. When you turn on the machine on it remembers the last load's options. We haven't used the Normal/eco selection, I wanted to control the water level and temp.  We usually use heavy duty, it is similar to the old maytag's normal mode. Normal spin works well getting the clothes fairly dry. Perm press isn't as good, rpm of the spin is slower to be gentle on items.  I don't really know what fabrics each setting is meant for. So heavy duty for everything!\n\nSomething my wife mentioned,  she will be able to continue washing cloth diapers with this washer with the next kid.\n\nNice thing about this washer it includes the fill and drain hoses with gaskets. Most don't,  it's a $25+ extra.\n\nThe only gripe I have is its taking some getting used to the washer water fill stops when the door is open. The maytag would fill with the door open, but with the door open the maytag wouldn't run. Then again, speed queens in the lundry mat would lock shut. At least this speed queen will allow me to add in that stray sock, after starting it. Clean clothes is worth it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3504, "id": 290570, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 422, "len_tokens": 539, "text": "My dryer drum abruptly stopped spinning while attempting to dry a load 5-7-17. I felt the heat, so I knew none of the parts involving thermostat, switch, ignitor, or coil were the problem. I also heard the motor spinning, so I chanced it on ordering the tensioner with a belt, minimally, before opening the dryer up.\n\nWell, when the kit arrived (5-9-17),  I unplugged the dryer and removed the front cover with door assembly. I immediately saw the belt had snapped and in fact frayed leaving belt dust & burnt rubber sprayed about. So I went a step further and removed the drum to thoroughly clean it out using a vacuum followed by a damp rag. In some spots I used WD40 to clean. I use WD40 when cleaning various items in the automotive & repair industry, especially for stubborn spots. It's non-abrasive & not too harsh chemically.\n\nAfter comparing the tensioners, I decided to reuse the old one due to the fact it was beefier & the replacement had a few differences. Also because this tensioner uses no bearings, only metal bushings on a metal shaft. Then I compared the drum rollers, but saw no noticeable wear nor was the rubber hard or dried out, so I decided to keep the old ones in place.  I reinstalled the drum, placed the belt and reinstalled the old tensioner. I spun the drum by hand to make sure all was aligned and moving freely, replaced the front cover assembly and gave it a try. So very thrilled, all is working as it should. This is seriously the cheapest component to have to replace & best case scenario all around. I'd definitely recommend these parts, but can only verify the quality of the belt. Again, tensioner, I wouldn't use.... and I posted photos of comparisons along the job I did.\n\nThe gas dryer I have is Whirlpool LG7681XSW3\n\nI bought this from the seller \"Cheddy\" but fulfilled by Amazon.com, which I feel is important to list this info. I've come across sellers with variances in their items, including knockoffs, even if listed as same brand. I'll post an update with a durability review.\n\n***UPDATE*** 8-16-17\nit's now been about 3 months since I had to do the repair, and all is still well. I call this a win.  If the previous belt durability was any sign of how long this one will last, I should be fine for at least another 10 years.  I'm just so glad there are companies still making these parts!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3505, "id": 488926, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 456, "len_tokens": 578, "text": "KitchenAid 30\" Architect Series II True Convection Stainless Steel 5.0 Cu. Ft. Double Oven:  The ovens are beautiful with large viewing windows.  The electronic control panel is a bit confusing; not too intuitive.  Since we installed it a couple of months ago, we have baked cookies (came out well) but not used it yet for any major cooking.\n\nThe most annoying feature is the noise level.  Compared to our old electric oven (which was not a convection oven), this one has a fan running pretty much all the time.  The noise from this fan is quite annoying since it starts as soon as you turn the oven on and it stays on during cooling (after you turned the oven off) - this means for any cooking, you will be listening to the fan for cooking time plus at least 30 minutes....\n\nThe second annoying feature is the preheating time - this is a large oven and takes a while to preheat.  Be aware.  Most cooking temperatures take 15-20 minutes to reach.  Sometimes longer.  This requires a lot of planning.  We haven't used any advanced features such as preheat on demand at a preset time.\n\nThe third bad feature is that you can't start cooking correctly until the oven reaches your target temperature.  If you are in a hurry and put stuff in too soon, the oven will be at a very high and will cook the the product incorrectly (soft in the middle with hard crust) (maybe this oven must go through a high temperature peak as it preheats to get there faster).\n\nFor a pretty high-end oven, these features mean I can't recommend it to my friends.\n\n==============\nUPDATE After >6 months of use -- the preheating time is too long, terrible.  The fan stays on for too long after cooking - very annoying.  The main problem is you CANNOT CHANGE THE TEMPERATURE WITHOUT TURNING OFF THE OVEN!!  How bizarre is that?  I have been arguing with KitchenAid \"Customer Un-support\" people and they told me that the \"feature\" is to \"change temperature, you must turn off the oven\".  The technician that visited me told me that every house he goes to reports the same issues (too long to heat up, fan stays on for too long, can't change temperature without turning off the oven) -- all with these nice ovens with the blue interior.  Very pretty but non-functional.  Stay away from this appliance.  KitchenAid claims the oven is doing all this (\"bad stuff\") \"by design\".  They won't offer a fix or another model.  I guess they have decided to cover their eyes and ears about this model...  DO NOT BUY THIS FAULTY PRODUCT...... I am going to small claims - the only route left...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3506, "id": 260380, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 427, "len_tokens": 519, "text": "4 count them, 4--button levels of air suction! Stainless Steel is not cheap but high grade & heavy thickness. My hood arrived in pristine condition & best packing I have EVER seen, so was well-pleased.\n\nMy 30\" version of this unit has 3 removable Stainless Baffle sections which was FREE upgrade from aluminum screening, and the buttons are on the vertical front ledge of unit with a DIGITAL readout screen of the level of chosen suction and even has time-delay on shut-off = BONUS!\n\n-Has a 3-prong plug to plug in and check if working the moment it arrived.\n-The exit of the 6\" round flu from motor has a butterfly damper that opens when fan engaged so will be great to prevent back flow from exterior.\n-The two piece chimney surrounds are also heavy duty Stainless Steel and uppermost section has two sides consisting of a series of venting to dispel heat at top sides.\n-The entire hood and two sections are protected by a clear or blue skin of plastic that is easily removed after installation.\n-There is an included small approximately 2\"X3\" clear plastic topless box that has slots that slide into brackets under motor housing that is supposed to catch any accumulating grease from motor area low point that is accessed via the removable baffle. This then can be emptied and wiped clean with ease.\n-Installation is easily done & straightforward...find the centerpoint of stovetop/range and have center of hood match this point and mark two hanger holes at level into studs with provided heavy gauge screws (rip open wall & install stud if not there--molly screws are NOT going to work here--after all won't be seen anyway as hood covers it).\n\nCon:\n-Two halogen lights are in rear of unit and are only 20 Watt each so total 40Watt so woefully dim for cooking surface...I have upper cabinets on both sides so I am installing under cabinet lights on both sides to compensate.\n\nI have not permanently installed totally on wall yet as am doing some extension of wiring in wall behind hood in wall but will update when totally complete with photos. I am using the two baffles on interior two exits of blower motor but I am doing a hollow faux wood beam to cover the metal 6\" flu system across the room to vent through out through bump-out dinette roof.\n\nThis hood totally blows away the competition at Lowe's or HomeDepot stores...and the price is at least $100-400 BELOW comps with these features anywhere online.\n\nRecommend this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3507, "id": 48121, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 448, "len_tokens": 509, "text": "I have just finished my first bottle of this product and am about to begin my second tube, and have noticed very good results already. The price is reasonable, and depending on how much you use it, you can get at least a month out of the bottle. I would recommend trying it as a single purchase first, then moving to subscribe and save ordering to save money if you are going to keep using it on a regular basis. This adds up to a pretty decent amount of savings versus buying it in the store.\n\nMy purchase of this product was prompted by a desire to help reduce or remove fading tan lines from a sunburn. I also had a few areas that were rough and lightly discolored that I wanted to smooth out. However, I have very sensitive skin that makes it difficult to find suitable products for. I began using it just once every other day for a week to test for irritation. When none occurred, I moved to once daily for a week, then twice daily every day after that. I do not use other exfoliating products on the areas I use the mini-peel on, and I use a very light moisturizer only at night. As a result, I have not experienced a lot of dryness or peeling.\n\nThe first few days of use I did not notice a change but at the end of the week I noticed that my arms and hands were smoother. After the next week, the tan areas had begun to fade, and the mild keratosis pilaris on my arms had also begun to lessen. Over the course of a month, I noticed that my arms and hands looked and felt much smoother and youthful. I have seen far fewer breakouts from the KP than with any other product I have tried, which was a big surprise. The product does not feel as warm as claimed, but it still does its job as advertised. The fragrance is very mild, and does not linger on the skin for very long after it has been washed off, which is important for anyone sensitive to the smell of perfumes in their products.\n\nA few things to note: this product does have AHA in it, and it is very important to either cover the treated areas with clothing, or wear a heavier sunblock than normal for at least a week after use. If you use this product every day, always keep the affected areas well covered. If you do not, you are at a higher risk of sunburn, which is important to keep in mind if you have very pale or sensitive skin.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3508, "id": 453032, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 445, "len_tokens": 563, "text": "We have owned this cooktop since March of 2002 ... certainly plenty of time to give a valuable review.  My husband and I both like it very much.  It doesn't have a metal trim around the top edge like many of the ceramic cooktops.  All those do is trap grease and filth.  This simply has a beveled edge, so nothing to trap food.  The knobs easily come off when you want to really clean.  The shiny black looks so elegant.\n\nIt is not at all hard to clean.  Here's the trick.  If you have something spill over that is obviously going to stain and make a horrible mess, turn off that burner and move your pot/pan to a different burner.  That helps keep it from continously burning in.  Then, once cooled, use \"Ceramabryte\" to clean it.  That product is terrific.  I buy it either at Lowes or Home Depot. You do not rinse with water after you use it.  Just wipe it off real well and you are good to go.\n\nFirst, I take a damp washcloth and wipe off any large messy foods that got onto the stove from normal cooking messes.  I dry it quickly with a soft paper towel (not the cheap scratchy kind).  Then I put a little Ceramabryte and spread it around with a paper towel.  Then I either let it haze up a little or just start wiping it off, depending on what I'm cleaning up.  You can see your paper towel turn very brown from what it is taking off your stove.  Even stuff that burned on to the burner comes off!  The only time I did not have success in cleaning it was when I was simmering bulk medicinal tea and forgot about it (shame on me!).  Several hours later, the smell caught my attention and I scurried downstairs.  What a mess on that burner!  I worked for a long time putting Ceramabryte and and taking it off.  Most of it came off except for one partial circle about 1/2\" wide.  It was only on the burner -- not on the black part.  So, a lesson to me not to forget something (stupid to do anyway) and I just keep a pretty blue teapot on that burner when I'm not using it, just for looks.\n\nWe like this stove so much that we are going to buy another soon to put in the next house we are moving to as soon as our current home sells.  I'm so delighted that this model is still available.\n\nDo not use steel wool pads or metal scrapers to get this clean.  You'll scratch it and won't be happy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3509, "id": 62729, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 468, "len_tokens": 554, "text": "My wife and I bought this for our new home even though after quite a bit of hesitation, as this technology is not very popular, and we did not know anybody that had used it before. We new that most of our pots and pans would not work with it, but that was not much of a concern as we wanted to upgrade our cooking ware anyway.\n\nSure enough, the first try of our new cook top was a big surprise. But the good way. The performance simply blew us away. We have never experienced anything that comes even close in terms of reaction speed, ease of use, and sheer power.\n\nPros:\n* Extremely powerful. Boiling water, making fish/meat stock, making pasta become easy and enjoyable.\n* Reaction is instant. No need to wait for temperature to go up or down. The second you touch the control panel, the temperature reacts.\n* Low heat setting can make long simmering more precise.\n* More energy efficient then gas or electric.\n* Very little heat loss through the air. As a result, the ambiance temperature never gets too hot even when I have all five eyes on, making fish stock.\n* Timer is a useful plus.\n\nCons:\n* Many types of cookware, including aluminum and most stainless steel does not work (use a magnet if you want to check whether yours does, only if it's magnetic it works).\n* There is a humming noise, not very loud, but noticeable.\n* It is not the best for Chinese stir fry because only the bottom of the pot/wok is in contact with the heat source, and the side of the wok may not be as hot as the bottom. Nevertheless, I use it often for stir fry, and it is fine enough for me.\n* Cannot grill.\n\nOverall conclusion: Once you tried this everything will feel like Stone Age.\n\nAdded: After 2 years, we're still very happy w/ it. Note: 2 left eyes share one circuit, and 2 right ones share one. This means that the ones share the same circuit cannot be on H(igh) setting at the same time. One of them will automatically be downgraded to a lower setting (such as 7, or 8). We noticed something rather strange in such situation. The eye w/ lower setting seems to continue to burn at H level, on and off. It seems that the two eyes are constantly changing from H to lower power then back to H in an alternating pattern. It can be a problem if 1) you need to use H setting, 2)use both eyes at the same time, and 3)want to control the power precisely for cooking. Or you will have to choose another brand that gives each eye its own power circuit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3510, "id": 547856, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 449, "len_tokens": 557, "text": "I've had this for almost 2 years. I, like many others, had burner shutdown issues - but in my case, the root cause was actually a thermal safety feature. I would always/only get burner shutdown when using my cast iron skillet on the center burner to cook steaks/roasts/etc.\n\nThe problem with this is that the skillet gets *very* hot and doesn't cool down really at all when the meat is being cooked. Indeed, this is exactly WHY you use a big cast iron skillet - it retains the heat.\n\nAfter 4 different visits by GE service (and replacing basically the entire guts of the cooktop), the latest technician realized what was happening. The skillet was radiating a ton of heat back into the cooktop, and the cooktop was seeing this and determining that the skillet was \"empty\". In other words, there is a \"feature\" of these and all GE induction cooktops called \"empty pan detection\". I was triggering this every time I used the skillet.\n\nI'm definitely disappointed this happens - and even more disappointed that the cooktop couldn't give me a hint as to what was happening. No fault codes. No warning. Not even a beep. That's pretty silly.\n\nSo why still 4 stars? Because other than this silly empty pan detection \"feature\", the cooktop is SO much better than any other cooktop that I will never go back to anything else. Boiling water in 2 minutes flat, \"sauce\" mode, sous vide, etc. Amazing.\n\nAlso, I will say that GE service has been amazing. Only on this most recent visit was I charged anything - $99.\n\nUPDATE: I've determined that the thermal shutoff / empty pan detection kicks in around 750 degrees. Obviously a much higher temp than most pans will get, but a big cast iron skillet can do it. I seem to be able to avoid thermal cut off by placing a silicone sheet between the skillet and the cooktop, but silicone can't handle more than about 600 degrees. Next idea is a thin ceramic disk, which should act as a good insulator and won't impede the magnetic field.\n\nUPDATE 2: Ceramic works! I purchased the thinnest ceramic tile I could find at Home Depot (16 cents!) and place the tile under the skillet. I was able to heat the skillet to over 850 degrees and kept it there for almost 20 minutes! The top of the tile got to about 750 degrees, but the bottom never got above 500 degrees - which is well below the thermal shut off. So I would say - problem solved! It's silly I need to do this, but the cooktop is so good otherwise it's worth a little experimentation.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3511, "id": 218741, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 380, "len_tokens": 527, "text": "Update: 5.9.2018\nI am cutting my rating to 3.5 stars for the following reasons...\n1. If you don't regularly use ice, the ice maker jams up.\n2. Door bins break easily, despite being very careful\n3. It is very hard to pull drawers out\n4. It is impossible to disassemble the crisper drawers, to clean between the 2 plastic layers. Don't know what the designer was thinking\n\nUpdate: 5.31.2014\nIce cubes:  I saw a lot of negative reviews complaining about crushed ice cubes.  I don't know if I've been lucky, or if they fixed it when it was refurbished ... but I get perfect ice cubes (or ice crescents :)\nSeltzer: My second batch of seltzer seemed a little better.  But still not as good as seltzer from sodastream gadgets.\n\n--------------------------------------------------------------------------\nReview: 5.30.2014\nI bought a refurbished unit (delivered on May 29th) from another vendor, to replace my 28yr old Amana (that came with the house).  My review will not address issues that came because of the unit being refurbished, such as scratches, cracked vegetable drawer, etc.\n\nWhat I don't like:\n1. The sodastream soda is weaker than expected, as has been mentioned in other reviews.  Still, I look at it as a bonus.\n2. The doors don't open wider than in the picture, making it a little hard to access the ice tray.\n3. My unit (perhaps because of the condition) SOMETIMES has a lingering drip after getting the soda, that lasts about 5-10 drops.\n4.  Fingerprints show up if your hands are not clean.\n\nWhat I like:\n1. Freezer & fridge temperatures are displayed on the panel.\n2. Keeps temperatures very steadily.  At least according to the panel.  I bought 3 thermometers that I will monitor to see how accurate the monitor is.\n3. Excellent, bright lighting.  I can see every corner clearly.\n4. I love the pullout 'FlexZone' drawer. It is handy to snacks and finger foods handy for the whole family.\n5. Compared to my previous refrigerator, this is so energy efficient.  Rated by consumer reports as $70 per year.  My old one was almost that much a month.\n6. It looks great too.\n\nI have heard about problems with ice maker.  I will update my review after I generate ice for a few days.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3512, "id": 185215, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 393, "len_tokens": 512, "text": "After Hurricane Sandy, we were out of power for at least 10 days (we still are as I write this).  Last year, after Irene, we were down for 5 days.  Usually, once we go out in a storm, it's at least a two-day ordeal.  We are fortunate to have a 12kw generator that we bit the bullet and installed about 6 years ago.  After allowing for heat, lighting, refrigerator -- the essentials -- we can use one or two discretionary 1500-watt appliances at a time with it (clothes washer, dishwasher, toaster, \"5th burner\", etc.), so with some organizing we can approximate normal living.  The one thing we couldn't do was dry clothes, as the typical electric dryer has a 5500-watt heating element and uses more than one-half of the max capacity of our generator just to run.  On short outages, not doing laundry wasn't an issue.  On the longer ones, we were stringing clothes lines up around the house and hanging stuff to dry -- effective, but not optimal.  And it didn't seem worth the significant extra capital (and operating) expense of a bigger generator just so we could dry clothes.  On about the fourth day of no power, with predictions of two weeks or more that we would be out, I got online on my cell phone to see if there was in fact a 120-volt clothes dryer.  I was pleasantly-surprised to find that this item even existed, and happier yet that I could order it from Amazon with Prime overnight delivery.  WOW!  I didn't expect much, and this certainly isn't going to replace our regular dryer, but it makes a huge difference in quality of life when you are hunkered down after a storm.  Almost made me forget about the gas lines!  For a small-to-medium load in the washer, this can dry that in less than an hour.  I just stood it on top of the old dryer, slipped on the exhaust-aimer-thingy pointing upwards, and fired it up.  The laundry room does get a little moist, but nothing bad, and it's easy to clean the lint filters.  Again, it's not so robust a product that I would use it for a regular big Laundry Day every week, but it does a very fine job on the small-to-medium loads that we're doing after the storm.  For this price, it's a no-brainer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3513, "id": 407611, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 526, "len_tokens": 593, "text": "I really like this better than my Brita and Pur pitchers.\n\nOne of the initial reasons is purely cosmetic... I love the look/shape of the pitcher and I love the aqua blue color of the filter bulb. My house is beach themed, so this color really appeals to me.\n\nNext reason is the time saving aspect, that it really does filter down through and allow you to completely fill the pitcher faster. With the Brita and Pur pitchers, you fill the top basin and then have to let it sit and wait til it drains down through into the pitcher and then add more water to the basin and let it drain down through til the pitcher is full. With this Whirlpool, it fills faster and you just hold it under the running water until it's full. I do pull it away from the faucet for literally a second or two here and there to let it catch up and drain but even with doing that I can still fill this pitcher in half the time than it takes to fill my other ones. How long it takes to fill and how often you will need to pull the pitcher away from the faucet to allow it to drain down a little will depend on how fast you have the faucet turned on, of course.\n\nNext reason I really like it is the convenience and versatility aspect - you can use the filter to fill any pitcher, container or bottle, since the bulb that holds the filter has a funnel on the bottom. You could even refill bottled water bottles, baby bottles, sodastream bottles, and single glasses of water. You can carry the filter and bulb/holder around with you in a lunch bag etc., and filter water where ever you are.\n\nYou do have to soak the filter for 10 minutes before the first use, just like some of the other brands of pitchers.  You will want to wash the pitcher and all pieces to the filter holder when you first open the package, of course, too.\n\nThe filter/ holder consists of a lid, cap, filter and funnel. They basically just stack easily together in place. There's a locking \"collar\" piece for the top rim of the pitcher as well and that piece has the pour spout on it.\n\nThe collar has the months listed on it, so when you replace the filter you line it up with the current month and then replace the filter 2 months later.\n\nYou don't have to keep the filter in the pitcher after the pitcher is filled. It doesn't sit down inside the pitcher in the water like with other brands and there's no instruction telling you that the filter should not dry out like with other brands.\n\nThis pitcher us about an inch shorter than my Pur pitcher, so it goes in and out of the refrigerator easier for us with the way we have our shelves spaced. I like the general shape and size better overall. The old fashion glass pitcher shape is really nice. I will be using this instead of my Pur and Brita pitchers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3514, "id": 21, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 441, "len_tokens": 513, "text": "As a former job seeker 2 times over, I was told again and again to build my network and rely on that network of friends and close contacts to help me in my job search. It makes a lot of sense and it's what you're told again and again.\n\nMany job seekers in organizations I joined were on LinkedIn, but they didn't want to link to anyone that they did not know well enough that they would not give them a stellar recommendation. The thinking is, don't link in with anyone who might not have a stellar reputation or they might drag down your reputation. I can see that point, but if I met you at a networking event and you seem reasonably nice and helpful, why not link in with you? Why be so suspicious? If I make it clear to others in my network who might inquire about someone I'm linked with, why not be completely candid and say \"I met them in a networking event and they seemed nice, but I haven't worked with them before so I can't vouch for their work habits or reliability\". How often do you really get asked about someone in your LinkedIn network anyway?\n\nThis book served to encourage my more open-minded view of growing my network. I wouldn't link with someone I knew nothing about, but if you've met them and have a positive impression why not offer to help them?\n\nIt is important to know what this book defines as a \"stranger\" as you begin to read. Most of us think of strangers as someone we know nothing about. The author broadens this to include people we think we know well but really don't. Or someone we know very casually. I wouldn't categorize these types of people as \"strangers\" but I think it makes a better book title to say \"The Necessity of Strangers\" than \"The Necessity of Acquaintances and Strangers\". The latter title would be more accurate, but I guess it doesn't have the concise sizzle for selling books.\n\nThe book is an interesting concept. Opening yourself to insights and possibilities offered by people who have been raised in a different environment/culture is a good idea. Even just listening to viewpoints from others could help you consider avenues you did not consider earlier and help lead to greater success in your personal and business life.\n\nAll in all, I consider this a good book. It encourages thinking beyond your immediate circles which is good encouragement for those of us who are New Englanders and tend to stick to our circles rather than venturing out and listening to new ideas.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3515, "id": 38898, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 476, "len_tokens": 599, "text": "I was a little skeptical when I decided to purchase this, but read through the positive reviews and thought I'd give it a shot. The kegerator made the trip fine and was pretty easy to put together. I'm just going to say some things/give advice from what I've learned. Most of the pieces are already installed but as others said, make sure you get the rubber gasket/washer on the tower BEFORE you drop the beer line into the kegerator. I like my beer ice cold so I knew I'd be adjusting the thermostat manually (as others said). This was very easy, and only required two phillips head screwdrivers (Normal, and very small). I did a turn and a half and it's perfect for me.\n\nIf you haven't read: Unplug kegerator! Pull off the knob on the thermostat, remove the 4 screws (2 on thermostat, 2 on side of kegerator)remove the thermostat from it's case to where you can see the tiny screw on top. 1 turn (or 1 1/2 for REALLY cold)clockwise, put it back together, and you're good to go. I don't know if I'd go much further than that though unless you're watching the temperature closely.\n\nI had a small leak in my beer tap to beer line on the butterfly nut. I got tired of messing with it my first pony and put a towel to collect any leakage. Well, that small leak added up to a couple of beers by the end of the week. So I went to Lowes and purchased some Blue Monster 1/2 inch thread tape (plumbing section)and did 4 wraps around the male threads on the keg tap. Problem solved. It might be a good idea to just go ahead and do that with all threads (co2 & beer) while your putting it together to avoid any potential leaks in the future and save you some trouble.\n\nIt took some time adjusting the co2 to the 'perfect' pressure. I've decided on 8 but I have had to turn it up to 10 when I had people over and beers were going quicker. Keep in mind it'll take a while to \"settle\" in, make small changes and give it some time to adjust. I would advise you to start at 8 and work your way up if you have to.\n\nIt will not fit rubberized(miller) and oversized(coors) kegs. I ordered a miller lite pony(not thinking, because I already knew) but since it was there I figured I could shimmy it in somehow. You can't.\n\nOverall, I am super satisfied and would recommend this product to any of my friends(with proper adjusting). I'm through with my first pony and I think I've officially got all the kinks worked out. Time to graduate to a 1/2 barrel! Cheers, beers, and Mountaineers!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3516, "id": 24898, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 419, "len_tokens": 511, "text": "I've had my GE fridge for about seven years now. I've watched the price of these filters creep up through the years, and gave into temptation the last time to try out a generic (AquaFresh) model.\n\nHere's a summary of my experience with these two products:\n\nAquafresh WF287:\n\nThe filter didn't feel quite right when installing .. I had to turn it a bit harder than I remembered. Once I began running the water, I immediately noticed black particles (carbon filter bits I suppose) in the water. I think I flushed out about 10 gallons before there were no more noticeable particles in a clean glass. But upon closer examination under good lighting, I could still see a few black specks floating around. I called the company I bought it from (FiltersFast.com) and they sent me a new one.\n\nWell ... same thing happened with the second filter. I think I ended up flushing about 20 gallons through this time before I was satisfied it was clean enough to drink. I've had no problems since, but when it came time to replace, no thanks.\n\nI don't think this model triggers the replacement light on my frig, but when I hit nine months of use, I decided I no longer wanted to wait to find out.\n\nWe've been in drought conditions more often than not this past decade in the Southeast, and I hate wasting water. I did put the water on my lawn so it wasn't completely wasted, but still I don't care enough about my lawn to feed it filtered water. :)\n\nI don't have a problem with FiltersFast.com, but I don't want another Aquafresh filter.\n\nGE MWF:\n\nInstalled quickly. Water sputters a bit right after installation, but runs clean with no black specks. The directions say to run about 1.5 gallons through to eliminate the sputtering. I think a gallon is enough.\n\nOverall, if you compare the price of filtered water right from your frig to bottled water, the GE MWF is still an incredible bargain.\n\nI take my own water to work and save probably hundreds of dollars a year. And I am not filling up the landfills with plastic empties.\n\nI find the filters last longer than six months, probably about nine months on average before the light kicks on and tells me to buy another.\n\nBottled water is all about marketing. Clean, filtered water is nothing but pure H20, same as the expensive bottled waters. I have better things to do with my money.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3517, "id": 352424, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 469, "len_tokens": 561, "text": "I got this for camping but it is a bit heavy/not for a guy but for me it is a little heavy to tote around.  When my boyfriend and I go camping for longer than a week I do plan to take it with us.  I am not sure if I use it as directed but this is how I do it:  I have a 5 gallon bucket that I use to fill the wash tub side with water to cover the clothing I put in.  Usually 3 or 4 small easy to dry items like pajamas, rompers etc. The washer side will hold much more but I use it for quick loads that I want clean without using big washer.  The spin side is probably half the size of the washer so if you do a large load you will have to spin a few articles at a time.  I do not wash towels and socks in it/but guess you could fit 2 bath towels in it but only 1 in the spin part.  Anyway, I add a very small amount of detergent..like a couple tablespoons of the dilute dollar store brand..then run it on soft/or normal cycle for about 5 minutes.  I then turn the knob to drain and empty my 5 gallon bucket.  I then add fresh water and put it through another 3 minutes to wash out the soap/then drain it again.  Be sure to leave the drain hose in a bucket or you will be sorry (o:.  If it is only like 2 rompers or 1 pair of pajamas, I put them in the spin cycle for 5 minutes or so being careful to leave hose in bucket.  If washing more than a couple items I split it up and spin a few pieces at a time.  The clothes come out fairly dry/well dry enough to drape over my chair or hang in the closet to finish drying.  As stated, I do not use a whole lot of detergent so rinsing is no biggie..and have skipped a rinse before.  The clothes I use this for/delicates etc/are not really that dirty in the first place but this does a wonderful job on them.  It saves me money on wear and tear of my clothes and they stay looking brand new much longer than using my traditional washer.  Also saves on water and my water bill is high enough due to increases on the sewer and stuff in the last year or so.  I am sure it also saves on power as well.  If I were without a washer for a month or so i am sure this would suffice/but I do not see this as a replacement for a good washer and dryer especially where towels, socks and such are concerned.  Anyway///try it..it is great!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3518, "id": 379533, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 402, "len_tokens": 513, "text": "I use this in a guest unit but if my current full-sized dishwasher unit ever breaks I think I will replace it with this.  It works really well but I have never tried it on anything difficult to clean.\n\nI spent about eight hours at various plumbing and home-improvement stores - trying every single possible connection and asking for help from knowledgeable plumbers - but ultimately it involved picking up every single piece of pipe and tubing in the store and trying to match them together.\n\nHere are the labels on the packets:\nOne Brass Pipe Tee T  Connector 1/2\" FIP\nThree Brass Pipe Hex Nipples 1/2\" MIP\nOne Dishwasher Elbow 3/8\" OD x 3/4\" GH\nNPT= national pipe thread = MIP= male iron pipe = FIP=female iron pipe. All use the same threads, at least here in the USA.\nGH = garden hose\nOD = outside diameter, seems to be what is used on faucet supply lines.\n\nAttach the nipples to the T connector as shown in the picture (I used plumbers thread-seal tape.)\n\nThen you need the connecting faucet supply lines.  The two lines going into the T connect to your hot and cold water lines.  Just buy lines where one end is is 1/2 in MIP/FIP/NPT and the other end attaches to a system that will branch water from your wall outlet (sorry I didn't keep those packets - let me know if you need more details on this and I can check to see what I used.)  The line going into the dishwasher has one end 1/2 in MIP/FIP/NPT and the other end attaches to the dishwasher elbow 3/8in OD.  The other end of the dishwasher elbow attaches to the dishwasher.  (Too much detail probably!)\nThen I cut a hole in the drain pipe above the trap and the dishwasher drains directly into the drain.\n(sorry that the picture shows the metric version of the sizes - 1 cm is 3/8 in and 1.27 cm is 1/2 in.)\n\nWhat I have learned since doing this:\nNow I also see there is something called a \"Y Washing Machine Mixer Hose\" which may be useful, since the attachment going into the dishwasher is the same size as washing machine connections.  (I think.)\nAlso, since the dishwasher has an internal water heater, you could just connect this to the cold water if you just wanted to deal with one supply line.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3519, "id": 371940, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 350, "len_tokens": 510, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R13S506SUNGK2W\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81Jl7KeecVS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91aNACLDVAS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;My son's 1 bedroom bachelor pad includes a small kitchen with no dishwasher.  He is on the go, so frequently has unsightly dishes piled in his sink.  We bought this for his apartment and it has been a Godsend, so far.\n\nI love that it requires no tools to set it up.  Everything is finger-tightened (or you will damage the threads).  After removing the filter from his faucet, the connector fit perfectly inside his female faucet.  We didn't have to run to the hardware store for additional connectors/parts.  It went on without a fuss and snaps on and off easily with the quick connect.\n\nAt first, we noticed some leaking at the rear intake, but I just tightened the hose a bit more.  I had done it too loosely previously.  While you don't want to use a wrench, you do have to firmly finger tighten.\n\nHe hadn't washed dishes in longer than a mother wants to think about, so we had a good sink load that a single person could generate in a few days.  With the exception of the pots and pans, everything fit.  It actually fits more than I thought it would.  The taller plates had to go towards the center of the dishwasher - and we had to make sure the smaller plates weren't hanging down too far or they were snagged by the spinner.\n\nHe left while the dishwasher was still running and had no problems with overflow - and it really did a good job cleaning all his dishes.  My youngest son just recently moved into the same apartment complex and we are thinking about getting him one as well.\n\nI've attached a brief video of the dishwasher while washing.  I didn't find it unacceptably loud.  It does occasionally make a louder spurt when it drains extra water into the sink, but it's not very often and is brief.  I've also attached a photo of the front console - and the fully loaded dishwasher.  It handled that load like a champ!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3520, "id": 471182, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 439, "len_tokens": 563, "text": "I took delivery of mine (from a local dealer) on December 31st of 2014.  The FIRST one was delivered the previous Friday, that one's washer did not work at all.  Yes, it was brand new.  The second one works, but don't buy one until you read this entire review.\n\nThe washer is a failed attempt at saving water.  I have no clue how any engineer or marketing team could be this stupid, but I have a feeling the WET3300 is not the only dud out there - since it uses the same pressure switch as many other models, and it is the pressure switch (and how it is configured in the WET3300) that makes this washer so awful in performance.\n\nThe washer, when set to \"LARGE LOAD\" will only fill with 6.5 inches of water.  If you load this thing like a normal top loader, it it not going to perform well.  Running small loads, it works fine - but read on.\n\nThe rinse cycle is horribly designed.  On the \"LARGE LOAD\" setting, the tub fills with only 3.5 inches of water.  This means the rinse is not complete (I have read reviews where people said they had to rinse twice with one of these, I see what they mean.)  But there seems to be a way around this - liquid fabric softener, with so little water, will stain your clothing.  So, for those who use liquid softener, Whirlpool put a switch on the control panel.  By leaving the Fabric Softener switch on, the system fills to 6.5 inches on rinse!\n\nIf you only load the machine tub 1/2 full, run the machine on \"Large Load\" setting, and run with the Fabric Softener switch on at all times,  you will likely be happy with this machine.  Doing this, the machine is effective in doing one thing:  Saving space.  IT does not save water because you can't load the machine very much - but it DOES save space.  If you have a family, htis is not the machine for you!  A single person (like me) or maybe a couple can get by with it - but you will never wash blankets or large items in this machine.\n\nIf you really want to save water, but a front loader - they do the job of saving water AND cleaning clothing very well.  The top loader, let's face it, is on it's way out.  As I said before, the pressure switch in this machine is the same as many others  -so either it is employed differently in other machines (likely) or else all new top loaders are junk.  I simply don't know.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3521, "id": 59856, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 444, "len_tokens": 515, "text": "Great compact cooktop that has a modern and stylish look. This is a 2 burner cooktop in black. The surface has a glass surface but it comes with specific cleaning instruction and a cleaning product so that you don't damage/scratch the surface. Esthetically this thing is very attractive. the top is flat and shiny. The knobs are not obtrusive and it just looks like it belongs alongside all your other modern appliances. Each knob has a white line that directs to which burner you are turning on and this also adds to the modern look/design. There are three lights in between the knobs. 2 of the lights indicate when each burner is \"on\" the third light indicates when the surface is still hot. This is a great feature that warns you that although the burners are \"off\" the surface of the cooktop is still hot and you should still be careful. Great feature. The way that this cooktop works is that it has the same electric rings but just underneath the modern glass top. It heats up quickly and I can  boil water in just a few minutes. See pictures.\n\nI was hesitant when ordering this product because I was concerned that there wouldn't be enough room between the burners to place 2 pots/pans/etc. but as you can see in the pictures there is ample room for two pieces of cookware. In the picture I have a medium sized pan and a small pot so 2 pieces of cookwear should fit well. Keep in mind that this is a 2 burner cooktop and as you can see in the pictures that we could have easily fit a 4 burner but we didn't have the use for it and wanted a more clean compact look. This cooktop fit the bill.\n\nWe had this cooktop professionally installed so I cannot comment on the installation but I CAN tell you that you can install it left to right or top to bottom depending on your countertop space. We installed it left to right (as seen in pictures). Also the cooktop will take up a few inches from under your countertop so you may not be able to put a drawer underneath it. This is something that all cooktops share in common.\n\nWhen we re-did our kitchen I bought most of the items from amazon so I'm going to try to write reviews with pictures on these items. you can look for those to see if the items are something that can work for you. All in all this unit has been working exceptionally well and provides the look, function, and necessity that we were looking for.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3522, "id": 88391, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3523, "id": 181674, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 487, "len_tokens": 595, "text": "I recently switched from propane to natural gas, and after doing the regulator, and orifices was disappointed in the output on my over 10-year-old Profile cook-top. So, it was off to find a new one. I took about a month to decide.\n\nThe box arrived undamaged; however, there were a few small scratches on the surface, factory issue, not shipping. They are hardly noticeable with the grates in place. The unit fit almost fit perfectly into the hole from my old Profile cook-top. Set-up and install was less than 30 minutes. I was somewhat surprised that GE suggests using Cerama Bryte on this unit, but there was none included, I guess I just remember the old days when something suggested was supplied, at least in a sample. The straps to hold it in place are really a joke. They really need 2 screws on each strap into the cabinet to stop any motion, but they are just too short. That's an easy fix.\n\nI saw some questions here about elevation, so just to give some of you an idea. On the center burner 6 cups of uncovered ice cold water, in a 4.5 quart saucepan came to a boil in 8 minutes. My elevation is 3885'.\n\nI like how the grates are slightly higher than others I had looked at. I feel the heat is better distributed on the pan. The low heat levels for simmer are SO much better than my old GE profile. Actually I like all the low level settings much better with this new unit. Change that to LOVE the settingsright now simmering stock on a nice low roll of a simmer on the left front burner, and potato-leek soup on the right front. Oh, it took 18 minutes on the center burner to bring 16 qts of water to a boil, not bad at all. A little surprised how hot the unit gets while in use, even by the controls, that should have been expected, but still a bit of a shock. That's like one of those restaurant thingsdon't touch the plate, it's hot. Then you still touch itwhat can I say, I'm a guy!\n\nUsing 3 different straight edges I verified I do have a slight bow (maybe 2/16 of an inch) off the counter in the front of the unit. Even though the unit has a foam strip running around the underside of the perimeter, I'm waiting for a reply from GE about using some silicon to seal it.\n\nI have not used the griddle yet, I'm more excited about using my wok on the center burner. Even as it was suggested using a flat bottom wok, my round bottom sits quite well on the grates.\n\nI am very happy with this purchase. It functions much better than anticipated. This is a definite recommend.\n\nLast thing, it was impossible to beat Amazon's price on this baby. No-one came close.\n\nGreg", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3524, "id": 87391, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3525, "id": 520616, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 492, "len_tokens": 581, "text": "We recently bought the Architect Series Top Control Dishwasher after our Bosch machine finally gave up the ghost.  We did a lot of shopping before settling on this machine, and really were torn on whether to go with Kitchen Aid or another Bosch.  We absolutely loved the Bosch, but had also had good luck before we bought it with an earlier Kitchen Aid dishwasher.  Given our prior good experience with Kitchen Aid, a real good price on the new one, and the fact that Kitchen Aid has heated drying whereas the Bosch does not, we went with the Kitchen Aid.\n\nWe soon found out that, whereas we could put heavily soiled dishes in the Bosch and they would come out clean as a whistle, we have to thoroughly rinse the dishes before washing in the Kitchen Aid or else they come out with food particles dried and stuck like glue to them.  The other thing about the new machine we don't like very much is the stainless steel front panel.  We have a top of the line Frigidaire gas range in stainless that has never in nearly 5 years of use shown fingerprints due to special surface treatment.  Since Frigidaire owns Kitchen Aid, we assumed their top of the line dishwashers would also be resistant to fingerprints.  Not so!  Anything that touches the front - either a finger, and hand, your knee, a towel - whatever - leaves a mark or a smudge that can only be removed with stainless steel cleaner and a microfiber cloth.\n\nAdditionally, the silverware basket in the Bosch could be left in its normal side of basket location, or could be moved to the front of the bottom basket, or could even be put in the top basket, which made creative loading much easier.  With the Kitchen Aid, the HUGE silverware basket can only be in the one original place at the side of the bottom basket, and pretty much takes up that whole side of the basket.\n\nOur Bosch had a soft food disposal built in and worked like a champ with only having to clean the screen at long intervals (almost never).\nThe Kitchen Aid filter screen gets completely clogged up within a week (even with pre-rinsing the dishes) and has to be removed and scrubbed clean weekly with a brush and running water.  If we omit this chore, we start getting a food particle film on everything.  (Kinda makes one wonder about the rinsing efficiency of the machine.)\n\nAs far as malfunctions go, we have had none to-date (knock on wood.)  But then we only have about 4 months of usage on it.\n\nBottom line is, we have more or less made our peace with it, and it does seem to be marginally better in some ways than your basic cheap builder's special dishwasher.  But rest assured, when it comes time for another replacement, we will return to and likely stay with Bosch.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3526, "id": 329977, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 469, "len_tokens": 542, "text": "The Ivation Portable Ice Maker with Easy-Touch Buttons is a sleek, well-made item that is perfect for so many occasions. I like the way it presents, with its somewhat slender design and its easy-open top, plus it includes a basket for ready-made ice and scoop for the ice as well. It has an easy-to-use, touch sensitive button strip across the top, which is very easy to operate. One light indicates when the icemaker is full and another lets you know the water level is low, plus it has two different options for cube sizing preferences of small or large and a touch on/off power switch.\n\nThe specs on the device indicate that it can make 26.5 lbs of ice per 24 hours, but keep in mind that the capacity for the ice itself is 1.5 lbs. It begins to work quickly, too, with the ice maker only taking around 10 minutes or so after you fill the reservoir to start making ice, and it stops the ice making process once it is full. Once you empty the ice tray, you can begin making ice again. It pushes out around 9 cubes every 10 minutes and is a great portable ice maker for travel or if you are having guests over. The portable ice maker creates clean tasting ice cubes as well, and is  great for those who worry about adulterants in the water. We used bottled water in ours and there wasn't any aftertaste like there is with our freezer's ice maker.\n\nI also enjoy the fact that it has a drain on the bottom to flush out any excess water. I use it to discard any remnants from my ice maker and to clean the ice maker out, which should be done periodically. For cleaning, you fill the water reservoir up with water and let it drain until it run clear, which is easy and mess free.\n\nSomething else I liked about this model was the fact that it was not all-that-heavy, making it easy to carry wherever I wanted. We ended up using this and another Ivation ice maker for our summer BBQs and for our daughter's birthday party and they worked great. I like the fact that the ice lasts for a little while also so I am not quite as worried about it melting right after being made. It saves on us never having to buy bags of ice again which in the long run will be a huge savings.\n\nPlease note this product was provided for sampling purposes and that this is solely my opinion. The ice maker has been fun for summer and will be fun for use when Halloween gets here and for other holidays/occasions. It is also made by Ivation, and they have been a company I feel good standing by.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3527, "id": 465958, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 475, "len_tokens": 565, "text": "Do not buy this refrigerator.\nWe chose Bosch because of it's reputation as a high end appliance.  It looks sleek and modern.\nBut...it is terrible.  We had to have the ice maker repaired FOUR times in as many WEEKS.  They finally had to reroute a water line into the back of the refrigerator. This is FOUR times I had to rearrange mine and my family's schedule to be present for the repairman.\nSome of the trim fell off a shelf inside immediately after we got it, not a big deal, but for the price we paid (at Dick Van Dyke) I expected it to at least stay in one piece for awhile. Also, some of the plastic shelves began cracking.  Just last week, my 7 year old opened the fridge and an entire door shelf broke and it's contents fell out right on her.  Luckily none of the condiment jars cut her when they flew onto my floor.  It scared her and me to death.  We paid $78 for a new shelf, which now I guess we can only put the lightweight condiments on as long as they are in plastic bottles!\nThe freezer is very small.  The ice maker which makes about two cups of ice at a time takes up a lot of space and frozen pizzas and larger items are very hard to fit in there.  I actually had to store food in my car outside while I was preparing for our Christmas guests.\nJust today, I noticed the change filter light is on.  Which means we'll need to buy one of those now. We've had this thing for four months and it has been one problem or expense after another. We walk on eggshells around it (literally) waiting for the next problem.\nAlso, at one point, the computer was all messed up and we had to push the light button to get water and the water button to get ice.  We had to roll it out from the wall and unplug it for awhile and I guess it reset itself.\nI basically begged Dick Van Dyke to take it back after the first two repairs (the first 2 days after I got it and the second the next week) and they absolutely would not unless I paid a 5 percent (i think) restocking fee. I think you shouldn't have to pay a restocking fee on something that was not working to begin with.\nSo, if you want to have an expensive, pretty fridge in your kitchen that is undependable, dangerous, and makes only a cocktails worth of ice at a time (because you will need a cocktail or two if you buy this) this is the fridge for you.\nIt is the worst money we ever spent and I really really regret it!  I also would not recommend Dick Van Dyke.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3528, "id": 45430, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 424, "len_tokens": 527, "text": "Nov 2009: bought the red Nostalgia ice maker similar to this one, despite some negative reviews on Amazon. Result: beautiful ice, reliably, for 2 months! Then it stopped working. Maybe I should have bought a warranty, but who can schlepp 50 pounds to the UPS, let alone resurrect a box to fit.\nJan 2010: nostalgic for the Nostalgia (and still unwilling to haul more bags of ice from the store), I bought this lovely red machine. All who come to visit say, first, \"What is it?\" and then, with either envy or incomprehension that anyone could want a constant supply of ice, \"It's very attractive!\"\nAug 2010: Attractive is as attractive does. Who needs an attractive red box that does absolutely nothing taking up kitchen counter space? That's right: the second machine just stopped working too, all by itself. Granted its 7-month record beat the other by almost half a year. Small comfort.\nAug 5: I'm gonna buy a third ice machine of some similar kind. They're easy to set up, use very little energy, offer ice all the time as long as you keep the water reservoir filled, and comfort you in the night with the small sound of ice cubes dropping into the plastic basket. There will be ice tomorrow, you say to yourself and turn over and drop off to sleep.\nAug 7 (2 days later): before replacing this red box, I read as many Amazon buyers' reviews of ice machines as I could find that had been consistently in use for 12 months or more. It paid off. Since these ice machines seem given to easily breaking down, I found half a dozen folks here who'd been brave enough to fix theirs and to say how. Rather than lay out another couple hundred bucks, I took their advice: from one owner's experience, I emptied the water chamber and filled it again with tap water (not distilled or spring as I'd been using), and from another's, I did the silly thing of pounding on the machine's sides with the flat of my hand. (Another had cleaned out a small filter he'd taken from inside the machine's guts, but I didn't want to disassemble mine.) Lo, the tap water and hand-pounding worked. As I walked out of the room, within 2 minutes I heard ice being made again. Ran back and sure enough: beautiful ice! The machine's been working fine again ever since (another half week later now). As I say, pay attention to what experienced owners say!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3529, "id": 517358, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 487, "len_tokens": 584, "text": "UPDATE:  I've left the original review below, but am increasing the star count to 5.  Home Depot replaced my washer with a new one, and it turns out that most of the issues were caused by the original delivery team's poor installation.  I'm very happy with this washer -- it works well and seems to clean clothes well, and the cycles are shorter than my old LG washer that died after 7 months.  It does seem to have a harder time spinning - it starts and stops at least once when it starts spinning, and I would not call it vibration free, but when those clothes come out, they are really dry.\n\nWhat I like:\n+ I like the \"my cycle\" memory button that lets me save the settings for my most frequently used cycle\n+ Does a good job cleaning the clothes and uses half the energy of the LG it replaced... also very low water consumption\n+  Buttons are easy to understand without all the \"shift\" buttons my LG had (two functions in one button) which I found confusing\n+  Lots of \"fast cycle\" options.... definitely the fastest front loader I have ever owned, and clothes still clean\n+ I like the steam and self-clean functions\n+ easy to prop door open to minimize mold\n\nWhat concerns me:\n- I bought an extended warranty, which I never do, but in this case it seems like the Samsungs and LG's are prone to repair.\n- Seems to \"struggle\" balancing the load to get to a full spin, whereas the other front loaders would just spin the first time without the start and stop this one does.  According to the manual this is normal but I've owned 6 front loaders over the years and none of them do this.\n- I wish I could turn the sound off, doesn't seem to be a setting\n\nFeel free to ask questions in the comments section and I will try to answer them within 48 hours if I can.  Be sure you are there for installation and be sure they run a full spin cycle so to make sure machine is perfectly set up.  If it \"walks\" across the floor, machine comes with rubber pads to place under feet, so make sure they install those.  Hope this helps.\n\nORIGINAL REVIEW:\nMine was just delivered yesterday.  Delivery bolts remoted, unit leveled, yet spin cycle is very loud and it goes out of balance and has to re-start the spin cycle.\n\nI am returning it to the store.  This placed a LG that lasted 7 months and then started smoking (don't they know smoking is bad for their health?) so now I'm at a loss as to what brand to buy.  Perhaps I'll go back to Kenmore / Whirlpool but I hear they have problems too.\n\nWhatever you do, be sure you get an extended warranty, these machines are far from perfect.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3530, "id": 89526, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 424, "len_tokens": 538, "text": "This is a wonderful compactor.  I rarely write a review unless I feel strongly one way or another, both good and bad about a product.  Based on some not so good reviews On this compactor I feel compelled to write a review.  We have had a trash compactor in our kitchen since 1990.  After 24 years of heavy use it finally bit the dust.  While most people don't think a trash compactor is a \"must have\" appliance, once you have one you can't live without it.  We did a lot of research both online and in stores and based on the size of the motor, the ram force and the size of the trash container, we decided on the Broan 15SS. To see reviews that say this doesn't compact trash is hard to comprehend.  The compaction of this unit is amazing!  One bag lasts us (a family of four) two weeks.  When you think the container is getting full, this compactor is just getting started.  This compactor has a crush and hold button on the inside front.  When the \"hold\" feature is used, the compactor ram goes down and does it's crushing and the ram stays down to even further compress the trash.  This feature is what makes this compactor so good.  With the last bag we took out we decided to do an experiment.  We decided to weigh the bag of trash.  After two weeks, the bag weighed 16 lbs!!\n\nMany reviewers complain about opening the door and pulling out the drawer.  This is not a problem in my opinion.  The drawer glides out effortlessly.  Also the size of the drawer is much larger than other brands and able to hold more trash.  Other brands have a foot pedal which is not a bad idea, however, it wasn't enough to sway our decision.  Other brands seemed flimsy, not enough ram force, smaller motor and small trash compartment.  The only other brand that came close was Electrolux which is identical to the Broan.  I have been told Broan makes compactors for Electrolux which,is probably the reason they are identical in power and ram force.  They both have the same crush and hold button also.  The Broan is less expensive with the same features which is why we bought the Broan.\n\nNeedless to say, I can't say enough about this compactor.  If you continue to compact the trash even when you think it's full, use the hold button and let this compactor do it's job you will be pleased.  I highly recommend this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3531, "id": 87903, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3532, "id": 87559, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3533, "id": 87271, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3534, "id": 330510, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 437, "len_tokens": 527, "text": "--------------------------------------------------------------------------------\nAT A GLANCE\n(+) Easy to setup and get up and running\n(+) Data for indoor and outdoor temp and humidity\n(+) Compact, space saving, yet readable\n(+) Display readable using ambient light\n(+) Accuracy is acceptable for what I'm using it for\n(-) No atomic clock update in my area, which it had antenna\n(-) Batteries only, no USB or AC option\n---------------------------------------------------------------------------------\nI am a big fan of Weather Underground because it provides you with detailed weather data from weather stations in your own neighborhood. But I needed something more because I have skin that is very sensitive to low humidity. This Weather Station from HITO definitely fulfills that need.\n--------------------------------------------------------------------------------\nWHAT I LIKE\n--------------------------------------------------------------------------------\n(+) Easy to setup, Just insert AA batteries in both the main module and the outdoor sensors and it'll being giving readouts. If you're lucky enough to have a powerful signal for the Atomic clock in Boulder Colorado, the clock will automatically sync up to that for your time zone. But I couldn't get a signal as much I went outdoors and walked around trying to catch. No big deal. I was still able to easily set up manually, almost to within a second accuracy. It was that easy for me.\n(+) With indoor module and outdoor sensor hanging from a nail in our backyard, I'm getting temp (Fahrenheit) and humidity readings both outdoors and indoors. The outdoor humidity readings generally local Weather Underground's readings, although mine are usually slightly higher. But what I like best is that indoor humidity readings tell me when I need to turn on the humidifier so that I avoid getting skin cracks. Many times, the indoor humidity will very close to the outdoor readings. Then I turn on the humidifier and I can see the indoor humidity readout going up nicely.\n(+) The display is sharp and readable as long as you have a light source to light it up. The weather station's internal lighting, which is that nice orange glow on the product page, only stays on for a few seconds.\n--------------------------------------------------------------------------------\n...BUT I WISH\n--------------------------------------------------------------------------------\n(-) Would have been great if it had an antenna to give ma better chance of catching the Atomic Clock time signal.\n(-) Would have like USB or AC power option, along with continuously lit display.\n\nOverall...I like it a lot.\n\nLet me know if you questions via the comments area below. PositiveLogic | Amazon Customer since 2000 | Got this at no cost or discount in exchange for an honest review. I have reviewed this item with the same impartiality as with items I purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3535, "id": 177385, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 423, "len_tokens": 502, "text": "This is a substitute replacement for my Kenmore refrigerator actuator arm.  Sears price was $87, but I got it from Amazon for $40. It fit perfectly and I received it in about three days from ordering.  I dreaded installing it because it looked like I would have to tear into the water dispenser.  My concern, what if I dismantled the dispenser, couldn't put it back together and then had to call Sears?!  So, I gave it a try.\n\nI removed the drip tray but there were no screws at the bottom of the module cover like the instructions indicated.  I had to carefully pry out the bottom of the cover, then push down from the top and the cover popped off, no problem. One issue, the cover was still attached to the dispenser module by a ribbon cord.  I couldn't figure out how to detach it so I left it on.  The cover just dangled while unscrewed the three screws at the top of the module.  I carefully wiggled out the module and pulled out the water tube.  Then the module pulled out further so I could work on it.\n\nI detached the red/black wire plug and had to cut it because it ran behind a little box.  I unscrewed two small screws holding the broken actuator arm side prongs and then removed the broken arm.  There was a spring arm that I had to make sure was in front of the actuator arm front prong.  It allows the actuator arm to spring back so it's not constantly turning on the water.  It was an easy thing to do.\n\nPlacing the water tube back in the water tube hole in the dispenser seemed impossible.  I struggled with it for awhile then realized it would naturally go back into place as I screwed the module back on the refrigerator.  It turned out to be simple once I realized the tube would just go back in place.  I checked the water dispenser hole once I put in all the screws and I could see the tube was good to go.\n\nThe entire job was easy.  It probably took me longer than most folks because I was very cautious and fooled around with the water tube way too long before figuring it out.\n\nEasy job, saved me hundreds by doing it myself.  To have a repairman come to the house would have been $100 just for the person to get to the house.  Then if anything needed to be done, that would have been lots more.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3536, "id": 13024, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 430, "len_tokens": 530, "text": "I purchased this to replace a micro-hood and was thrilled to find it in bisque color since it matches everything else in my kitchen.  I decided against buying the bottom of the line hood since this one is enclosed and easier to keep clean.  We installed it vented outside and instructions were pretty clear.  The day after installation my husband realized the hood was -inch higher in front than in back (due to our cabinets and the wood blocks already there, nothing wrong with the hood) and it meant that we could easily SEE the halogen bulbs whether standing in the kitchen or sitting at the counter.  UGH!  To fix it would be more work than we wanted to do.  However, I realized that the halogen bulbs got very hot very quickly and the light it gave off was actually brighter than I wanted.  After reading on several sites about people using LED lights (which Broan does not recommend) I thought I'd try them.  After trying PAR20 bulbs that definitely stuck out longer and shielded the bulb from viewbut gave off too warm a light, I tried a couple of GE Bright White PAR16 LED bulbs that I purchased at my local Walmart.  Because they are shorter the look is MUCH cleaner, and the light is brighter/not as yellow.  Yes, they flicker a bit on the low setting, but I typically plan to use the high setting for the light since I have real night lights in the kitchen for that purpose; also these lights have a 35-degree angle beam which are almost perfect for covering my entire cooktop, although a little less bright in the back but sufficient nonetheless.  And they stay cool while on.\n\nAs for the fan, as others have stated, I find the low setting VERY QUIET but not very effective; the high setting works great, especially ducted.  (NOTE:  when installing vented outside, make sure to alter the baffle so it does NOT recirculate the air inside.)  The hood is very attractive with minimal lines; in the Bisque-on-Bisque everything blends nicely.  I love having more vertical space between my large cooking pots and the hood.  And the price was good.  Broan customer service was wonderful--we were missing the mounting hardware, and after calling they sent out the hardware the next day via UPS.\n\nP.S.  Amazon's customer service with this order was EXCELLENT.  UPS inadvertently shipped my hood to Canada; Amazon sent out another hood overnight so it would be here for our installer; we simply refused the UPS delivery of the initial hood when is arrived.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3537, "id": 521140, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 484, "len_tokens": 582, "text": "I've used this all day long today.  Although this came a few days ago, I just settled down to use it today.  I really put it through it's paces.  Here are a few tips and thoughts.\n\nYour floor will get wet, I really don't see a way to completely avoid this.\n\nDon't overload it! you really can only wash a few pieces well.\n\nAlthough you can drain the washer with the clothing still in it, I found my clothes got cleaner if I took them out and THEN drained the washer.  Doing it the other way deposited a lot of the lint and dirt back onto the clothing and thereby into the rinse water.\n\nThe fill hose is junk.  I thought it would be no big deal to fill using a bucket, but by the end of the day, that was getting old. If I got the washer too full of water, it would slosh over to the spinner.\n\nYou can't really run the spinner and the drain pump at the same time.  If you have to choose which to do first, then run the spinner.  The drain pump will work to flush the spinner water out of the hose.\n\nThe pump is not strong enough in my opinion.  It would not move most of the water up to a standard drainpipe height, or the lavatory.  However, the hose was long enough to reach my toilet bowl, so that is where it went. I have a gray water system, so I was not thrilled with having all my wash/rinse water going into my sewage.  I'll come up with a different answer, but the toilet bowl worked for today.\n\nWhen draining the dirty water, keep the water agitated with your hand from time to time.  That  prevents a lot of dirty/linty deposits on the side of the washer.  When the last bit is draining out, pour some clean water in behind it.  That pushes the dirty water away from the washer and your next load of water will stay cleaner.\n\nYou really can reuse the water, either as another washload's worth, or discard each wash water, but reuse the rinse water as the next wash water. I used this technique a lot more toward the end of the day, not wanting to fill yet another bucket. I should have done so earlier.\n\nWhen you are completely done, as a last rinse for both the washer and the spinner, use some vinegar water.  Spin first, then use the drain pump to empty the washer , and that will leave only clean, slightly vinegary water residue in the unit and in the drain hose. Wipe everything down with a clean dry microfiber cloth and give yourself a hearty, \"Well done!\"\n\nI hope any of this is helpful to a new buyer.  It is a fine machine, and I'm glad to have it. It just has some quirks.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3538, "id": 514576, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 438, "len_tokens": 514, "text": "We are very happy with the way the range looks as well as how it cooks.  We have several problems with it:  First of all, it is very difficult to keep the top cooking surface clean.  This is in part because the surface is black and shows every little speck, spot, and spill.  Another color, such as gray, might have been much more practical.  Because the surface is such a dark color, it never looks totally clean.  Another problem is that the range has a rubber strip just above the control knobs and below the cooking surface.  Surely there is a better way to design this using a different material.  Crumbs are constantly falling behind the rubber strip and it is just about impossible to keep this area clean.  Paper towels with a surface cleaner would be my first choice for materials to clean this area, however, the paper towel turns to lint which becomes trapped along the rubber strip.  I find myself keeping a toothbrush under the sink to use for the sole purpose of trying to keep the rubber strip clean.  I am very diligent about cleaning the stove after every use (and this use is somewhat light because there are only two people in the household), and find that it is extremely difficult, even impossible to keep the range truly clean.  Additionally, the metal that is used around the control touch pad and stove knobs is not robust at all.  It dents and chips with very little use and although it looks \"okay\" after less than two months' use, I can only imagine what it will look like after a few years' use.  Our house burned to the ground after 37 years of marriage and we were forced to replace not only the house, but all of its contents as well.  We bought the Frigidaire Gallery Collection refrigerator, gas range, microwave, and dishwasher with the hope of having an attractive well made matching stainless steel equipped kitchen. We have been happy with the microwave and dishwasher.  The refrigerator is \"okay,\" and will be able to provide adequate service for us, however, it seems cheaply made and the configuration of its interior does not seem well thought out at all. It seems quite flimsy and the internal configuration is not as efficient as it could be. The gas range is a big concern regarding how well it will stand up to use and what it will look like in a few years or even months.  I really, really wanted to like the gallery collection but can't really recommend it, especially the gas range and refrigerator.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3539, "id": 408007, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 419, "len_tokens": 592, "text": "About the only part on a normal dryer that wears out are these ... uh ... wear strips! The first dryer we had (nearly 40 years ago) had a similar arrangement and all I ever did was put in new wear strips every 3-4 years. At 23 years, the motor finally quit. The local parts dealer wanted $230 for a motor and the Internet and (appliancepartspros.com) wasn't around yet so we bought the present dryer!. Eureka. As it turns out, neither dryer was labeled General Electric BUT both were made by General Electric. And the newer design was even easier to check the wear strips! Sure enough, every 3-4 years the dryer starts making that little scraping noise as it runs signalling those slide strips need replacement. BTW, do NOT wait months to replace these. If allowed to continue for a long time (ie, months), the drum [carries the clothes around and round] will wear into the plastic framework that holds the wear strips and supports the front of the drum. Yes, it is also replaceable but why spend another $30 - $40 and the extra hour or so if you don't need to, eh!\n\nSo we bought the wear strip kit (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Dryer-Drum-Slide-Kit-4-Pack-for-General-Electric-Hotpoint-WE1M316-WE1M333-WE1M481/dp/B004IA1HO6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Dryer Drum Slide Kit 4 Pack for General Electric, Hotpoint, WE1M316, WE1M333, WE1M481</a>) and headed for the laundry room with a Phillips head screwdriver and a can of silicon spray. Four screws and 15 minutes later we had installed four wear strips, sprayed them with the silicone, reassembled the dryer and were drying clothes. You can check but I would guess to have the local repair guy come to the house for that would run $175 - $200. Just amazing what you can do with a screwdriver! :-)\n\nBTW, while you have the front off to replace the wear strips, take the opportunity to clean out all the lint in and around and under the dryer. A vacuum with a few extensions and the long narrow nozzle will make short work of the lint. Do NOT go banging into things / wires too hard, ya hear! LoL  If you find a lot of lint (like inches thick) under the machine, make sure the ductwork (from dryer to outside vent) is not clogged and that all the joints have been taped properly. Lint can be a fire hazard if it piles up too much in the wrong places. I clean that ductwork every 6 months (the outside vent cover more often even).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3540, "id": 499381, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 436, "len_tokens": 528, "text": "Kit consists of 3 coils. Try replacing just the largest (single) coil first, as this appears to be the one that turns the gas valve ON (coil closest to the burner). That worked for me. The matching pair of coils on the OFF (closest to the gas supply line) valve need to be stronger to make sure the valve turns off (thus, two coils).\nThe color coding on my old Maytag dryer wiring did not match the colors or polarity on these coils, but that's not a big deal as they are AC coils. This might be an issue if you must replace the two smaller (gas OFF) coils, since they should work as a pair. Just go with matching up all the White wires, and wire one coil at a time if that's the case for you (very unlikely).\nMy dryer has a pop-open inspection door to view the burner. You should see the ignitor get red-hot, hear the valve plunger click as the coil pulls open the gas valve, then see the gas burner ignite. If the ignitor glows but there's no flame (no gas), the ignitor will automatically turn off, then try the cycle again a minute later. Leaving your clothes to tumble for hours with no heat will wear them threadbare.\nKit comes with clear diagram/instruction sheets, 2 wire nuts for each coil, pre-stripped leads, and a new O-ring for sealing each valve, so has everything you need for this fix. Remove nuts from coil cage to expose coil and remove old rubber O-ring. Cut the old coil wires close to the coil, strip the wires, connect the new coil wires tightly with wire nuts. Then assemble the coil, flat plate, and O-ring as a unit. Slide everything gently over the plunger (round post) and secure. My model has a small clamp holding all the loose wires in place.\nYou'll need small nut drivers, wire cutter, wire stripper, and you'll have to remove the front of the dryer (mine has two phillips screws near the bottom of the front panel). Turn off the gas (mine has an internal shut-off near the gas valve) and pull the AC plug from the wall.\nClean out all the lint with a vacuum and the (flat) cushion attachment while you're in there, especially inside the exhaust/lint filter channel (mine had a glob of lint stuck in it the size of my fist, though it still passed air). A bunch of screws held a cover for that channel, right in front of the lint filter. Don't touch the ignitor -- they're fragile.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3541, "id": 87247, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3542, "id": 446735, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 516, "len_tokens": 586, "text": "This is a temperature and humidity digital display which is powered by a single AAA battery (included). The accuracy of any device such as this is tricky because it has to be measured against similar devices which may be inaccurate. I have two other devices which measure temperature and I can say that this seems to measure temperature fluctuations much more rapidly than either of them do. It came within a half degree to a degree and a half of the one that I felt was more accurate.\n\nMy general sense is that this is a sensitive and sufficiently accurate device based on its performance in a room which was warm and then cooled with air conditioning as it seemed to make reasonable adjustments  based on how I felt. It also has much finer gradations (to the 10th decimal place). It also responded to the focus of a light which radiated heat when I positioned the light above it and the temperature fluctuated slightly with the added warmth.\n\nIn terms of the humidity reading, I have a very high level air cleaner which monitors humidity and this was within 2-4 percentage points of its reading. I think the fluctuation within the room was accounted for by the fact that they were on opposite ends (except for the short time in which I took the photo) the and air cleaner was humidifying the room from its water tank (hence, it read slightly higher). This leads me to believe that the reading on the ThermoPro is pretty accurate for a consumer-level device. It's certainly accurate enough for daily use, but it's not scientific level accuracy (nor did I expect it to be).\n\nIn terms of the construction, it's made entirely of plastic, but is not flimsy. It's a mid-range product in terms of look and feel  a simple design with two options for viewing  a little stand on the bottom which flips out and clicks in place or lies flat and a magnet. The main reason I'm giving this 4 stars instead of 5 is that the little stand has only one position so you can only view the display at one angle. Depending on the lighting, this angle may be a very poor option for your viewing. With my desk light on, I could see strong shadows of the digital display that made it nearly impossible to see the readings. It was fine with the lamp off, but the limits on the display angle make me cater the environment to the device. One more notch on the stand for a second angle likely would have solved this. Fortunately, the other option for display, the magnet, is a good one. At a 90-degree angle, this can be viewed well under the lighting conditions I have and the magnet is strong enough to hold the weight of the hygrometer without it sliding down. All in all, for casual indoor consumer use, I think this is accurate and handy for determining temperature and humidity.\n\nNote: I received a free sample of this product for my assessment.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3543, "id": 88559, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3544, "id": 296909, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 450, "len_tokens": 552, "text": "I LOVE our little machine.  It takes work to use it but it is worth it.  The washing side does a great job getting clothes clean and the spin dryer gets most of the water out. You don't need much soap at all.  I wash everything except sheets and towels in it.  I don't have anywhere to hang such large things up in the apartment so they have to go to the communal washer/dryer room - which I totally hate.  I wish I would have bought this YEARS ago.  I'd like to get the dryer too, but we don't have any room for it. This machine has already paid for itself.\n\nJust some FYIs:  It does take work to use it because you have to switch clothes from one side to the other.  Keep a towel handy to mop up whatever drips you have while doing that.  If you fill up the washing side to the \"H\" (high) water line be aware there might be some slight leaking (meaning drips) that come out from under the lid, it is not a sealing lid, so water can splash out while it's washing.  Follow the directions and only spin 1/2 of the load that you washed at a time. Yes, it takes longer, but the clothes come out almost dry.  On this model, you can put water into the spin side to rinse while you are spinning.  You DON'T fill it up, but running a little bit in works wonders.  I was lucky in that the water hose DOES fit on my bathroom faucet, but you can fill up the washer side with a bucket - or if you are in the bathroom, a hand-held shower head works great.  The biggest issue I have is keeping the drain hose in the sink.  It didn't like to stay up there sometimes. I had to rig up something to keep it in place while washing or you can use a big bucket.  Pay attention to how much your bucket is filling though or you'll have a mess on your hands!  Last tip: Catching Lint. There is a LOT of lint produced so I have a lint catcher (bought at Daiso for $1.50) that I can toss into the washer with my laundry and I also attached an old hosiery sock at the end of the drain tube with a rubber band.  They catch TONS of lint.  The lint catcher that is built into the machine catches NOTHING.\n\nBottom line: If you don't mind a bit of work, get this machine. You won't regret it. I enjoy laundry now. I wish I had this for the last 16 years I've been in my little apartment.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3545, "id": 463030, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 431, "len_tokens": 509, "text": "This dishwasher is so different, that it takes some getting used to. We almost went with a more traditional model. We're so glad we didn't! It cleans just as well as any dishwasher. Some reviewers have said their dishes are not dry, but mine are as dry as they were in any previous dishwasher I've owned. No, it will not clean poorly-rinsed dishes with caked-on food in one wash, but what dishwasher will? The cycle takes longer than my old dishwasher. But I understand that all the newer energy-star models do. Bummer, but I guess that's \"progress\" for you!\n\nBut what a great design! There are no more \"rules\"... No more \"this has to go here, and that has to go there\". I can put full-sized dinner plates on top, put any item anywhere there is room. The racking system is very flexible. After just a tiny amount of experimenting around (I started feeling comfortable with it after just one or two loads), you'll find that it allows you to move things around and change it up depending on the dishes you have. What a concept! With my old dishwasher, at times I used to find that the top rack was full, but the bottom was empty. I would be left trying to decide if it was worth running the dishwasher anyway. I'd be trying to move things around and redistribute the load a little better, but the bottom wasn't really designed to hold cups and glasses, so they would be rattling around. Not so with this dishwasher. Not only can I put any item anywhere it will fit. I also have the option, of course, to run a smaller load in just one drawer.\n\nThink about it. Have you ever had dirty dishes in the dishwasher, but were about to have a snack, which meant more dirty dishes? That used to prevent me from starting the entire load. Not so with two drawers. I can start the fuller of the two and finish off the second one when I am done with my snack. When the dishes from the first load are clean, I start to empty the dishwasher. By the time I am done unloading drawer #1 drawer #2 is done.\n\nI also have really started to like running and emptying smaller loads. I get my favorite mug back faster, and unloading the dishwasher is less daunting because I am done in five minutes.\n\nThis dishwasher has done more to change the way I approach a dishwasher than any I have ever seen. I would recommend it to anyone!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3546, "id": 87063, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3547, "id": 51531, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 496, "len_tokens": 588, "text": "I rent an apartment that has no hookup for washers and dryers, so I purchased this dryer to ditch the laundromat. Like other reviewers noted, this dryer does take quite a long time to dry. For example, if you were to dry 6 shirts in this dryer, it would probably take 2 and a half hours for them to be completely dry.\n\nBut, as reviewers also noted, a spin dryer really is a FANTASTIC complement to this dryer. I purchased a Haier washer, dryer and spin dryer and installed them the same day. I tried the dryer to see how long it took to dry clothes without the spin dryer and it was quite a long time, probably double the time it takes in a regular dryer, which is understandable since it uses a ton less electricity. But after using the spin dryer, this dryer only takes about 30 to 45 minutes to dry a massive load of clothes!\n\nThe dryer can be mounted to the wall, but I keep my dryer on the floor beside the washer and, unfortunately, the buttons are on the bottom of the unit. But the buttons are so easy to manipulate that you can press them with your toes! I just press \"On\" and then \"Start,\" which defaults to high heat and autosense moisture dry (where it shuts off once it senses that the clothes are dry).\n\nPros:\n\n--Super easy to operate, and has plenty of options like high heat, low heat, timed dry, autosense moisture dry, etc.\n--Easy to clean the filer, which is a circular plastic ring in the back of the inside of the dryer (where the clothes go). Simply pull it off and wipe the lint off.\n--Very quiet. I hardly could tell it was on even while sitting 5 feet away.\n--Holds quite a large load of clothing. I would say it's capacity is about half as large as a regular dryer, maybe 60%.\n\nCons:\n--Takes quite a while to dry unless you first use a spin dryer to remove excess water.\n--Heats up the home quite a bit when in use, which is to be expected.\n--It has a vent in the back of the unit that is supposed to be routed outdoors somehow (most people who need this live in apartments, so this isn't really an option), but I just stick an old sock over the vent unit to collect any lint or debris it shoots out.\n\nOverall it's a decent dryer, but I wouldn't care for it as much if I didn't have a spin dryer. It's probably the best compact dryer on the market today for those without the appropriate hookups, but it still is very weak compared to a regular dryer. Get a spin dryer to complement this unit and save yourself a heck of a lot of time. If you need a dryer and don't have the hookup for one, this is probably your best bet.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3548, "id": 515829, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 447, "len_tokens": 556, "text": "Top notch seller...very easy to do business with.  I wanted to switch out to the gas model range and they did it for me. Had an issue with the dishwasher not being available so they gave me two options - both of which were better than the original.  Package is about 1/3 less expensive than retail and the company customer service is absolutely outstanding.\n\nThese are not floor models, dents or blemish models but brand new in the box just the same as regular retail - but again about 1/3 less which in this case is around $2,000.\n\nThe refrigerator is fantastic - great upgrade from our old side by side model.  I thought I would be annoyed somewhat with the new freezer design over what I had before but I've come to appreciate its ease of use. I can see everything now.\n\nThe dishwasher takes quite a bit longer than our old GE Signature Series however the auto and extra dry features means no double wash cycles - which is a huge improvement.  The dishes go in dirty (and we have 5 teenagers so don't expect they're pre-treating) and come out clean...and dry.\n\nThe microwave is good but I have one annoyance over my old model.  The pre-built settings (like reheat) are listed on a sticker inside the unit so if I want to reheat plate, I have to remember to open the door to get the code I want...which never happens.  I hit the reheat button and then open the door.  Minor annoyance, otherwise it's a great unit.\n\nThe stove is also very good but two comments here: 1. There are little light grey labels on a few buttons that I had to find to set things like the clock.  Almost like using a <shift> key on the computer.  2. I cant type in - bake 450 - start. It's bake - up button (goes by 10's until you get close, then let off and go up by 1's) and then start.  That's truly annoying but again, otherwise when the instructions say bake for 22 minutes at 450 - its done.  My previous GE model was +/- 20-30%.\n\nOur appliances take a ton of abuse.  Big family...6 kids and 5 teens (mostly boys too).  I've had a pair of LG Washer/Dryers now for 8 years and they work as well as the day I got them.  The GE appliances in the kitchen were disintegrating by the time we pulled them and replaced them so that's why we went LG for the kitchen. If these hold up the way our other LG appliances have they will be well worth having had to install myself.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3549, "id": 284175, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 444, "len_tokens": 523, "text": "Great little convenience item !!!\nMake ice quickly, and quietly. With a machine that take up just a small amount of counter space.  Just add H2O !!!\nThe ice machine does make some ambient noise when in use, and when done the sound of moving parts inside paired with new ice being added to the removable ice bin is all you will hear.\nThis machine does not refrigerate the ice that it creates.  It will store it till it melts back into water, which will then be created into ice again.  if you leave it plugged in and on it will continue this process over and over, until the water needs to be refilled, or it simply stops working.  I would suggest making the ice you need when you need it, or make it and store it, then turn the machine off, and unplug it.\nThe only thing that I have had a problem with is the lid which opens on the top of the device.  It is quite bothersome when you are trying to access your ice.  it opens to a point, to were it is standing straight up, and is not allowed to lean back, causing it to fall forward when you are trying to shovel ice out with the included mini ice scoop.  I solved this problem by covering my ice machine with a towel, and when I open the lid I just place the towel over it, when it is in the open position.  It works, and The lid no longer unexpectedly closed in the middle of me accessing ice.\nAnother note for would be owners of this contraption, is that naturally, as the machine makes its batches of ice, the longer it is left to do so, the larger that ice cubes become.  I am assuming that this is due in part to the cooling coils becoming more cold after each batch, and also that the water is somewhat becoming more cool, as it is turned into ice , and melted = cold water lol.\nThis particular machine offers two setting small and large, in reference to the size of ice cube you would prefer.  I leave mines on large, and have not tried the smaller setting yet.\nThese ices cubes are great for use in water bottles, and Hydro Flasks, and will fit in most openings.  I have even fit smaller ones into plastic water bottle openings ( one-by-one ).\nI have no gripes with this machine, and am glad that I decided to invest in one, I no longer have to sacrifice, frezzer space, nor do I have to buy bags of ice, unless I'm filling a cooler for the beach.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3550, "id": 211417, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 421, "len_tokens": 548, "text": "My mother in law loves the dry-spin feature.. but I'll get to that.\n\nTo start from the top.  This is a small-capacity washer/spin-dryer.  As mentioned, it holds limited number of pounds of clothes it can wash.\n\nI normally don't fill the basin more than 1/3 full of clothes/sheets/etc or they get tangled or don't agitate well, but the wash cycle is quick, so it's not a concern.\n\nIf you are looking for a normal or even compact full-washing machine, look elsewhere.  You won't get it for this price, so set your expectations realistically.\n\nNext - the lint trap on this is not very good; It's poor to non-functioning really, but I turn my clothes inside out and it is generally only an issue with mixing specific materials together, so I've learned to minimize that.  I would have given it 5 stars if not for the lint problem.  I also put sensitive clothes in the small mesh bags you can buy for cheap to protect more.\n\nSo, you put the clothes in - then add water. I like to add water to well cover the clothes.  IF YOU DON'T ADD ENOUGH WATER, your clothes may have some rubbing against the bottom more severely.  Just add a bit more water. I've not had any issues with this.\n\nDRAINING - you do this everytime after.  In the warm weather, I permanently keep this on my back porch, where I can drain off the porch into the grass.  I CAN'T ATTEST to how well this draining feature works into a waist-height sink.  This is probably where people are having issues with leaking.  So while reading my reviews and seeing 4/5 stars, CONSIDER THIS in your purchase.\n\nNext - the spin dry doesn't hold quite as much as the washing side, which could be annoying, but it spin dries so quickly (I do 1 minute per fill) that it doesn't matter to me.\n\nThe spin-dry spins until nearly dry/slightly damp.  You will not be able to wring out more water after the spin dry, and on a moderately warm fall day, if you hung the spun-dry clothes, they're dry in an hour or less in my experience.\n\nMy mother-in-law LOVES the spin dry.  She likes to hand-wash things and use the spin-dry and likes it more than a commercial dryer despite the capacity being small.\n\nNOTE:\n\nI've had this for about 6-months and haven't had any issues with leaking or other things. Love it, and it works just as well as the day I bought it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3551, "id": 41612, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 423, "len_tokens": 530, "text": "--Edgestar Portable Countertop Dishwasher--\n\nPros:\n\nThe performance of this dishwasher is excellent given its portability and price.  Unlike what other reviewers have posted, it does indeed have the ability to dry dishes by heat on its most powerful cleaning setting (which runs about an hour and a half).  It doesn't just utilize hot water from the sink--the dishwasher adds its own more powerful heat.  I use this dishwasher in my studio apartment, and the end result of dishwashing is generally that dishes turn out as clean as they would in an installed dishwasher of medium performance.  The sink hookup--which is sturdy enough for me to feel confident about leaving my apartment with the washer running--has been made convenient and generally easy to use--for a sink hookup, at least.\n\nCons:\n\n-it's fairly loud when operating;\n-the design of the inside rack, I think, is poor--it's not hard for utensils and smaller dishes to protrude through the bottom of the rack and block the rotating sprayer below.  It's important that you take the time to carefully place your dishes not only for fit inside a small dishwashers, but also to ensure against this kind of blocking;\n-it's imperative that you use a rinse aid, as the dishwasher with detergent alone doesn't seem to be effective in preventing spots on clean dishes;\n-it's difficult to determine when the dishes are actually finished--the machine will indicate this by beeping, but in the interim there are several long pauses and a blinking indicator which can be confusing in asking yourself, \"is it done?  Can I disconnect it from the sink now?\"\n-my own model was sent with a slightly crooked lower panel, which wears badly on my \"OCD\" in wanting the thing to look straight and together.\n\nBottom Line:\n\nFor the price you pay for this dishwasher ($280 with shipping factored in), the apartment-friendly size and portability of the thing, and for the technology--which is surprisingly high tech--I think it's a very solid and good-performing piece of equipment.  Dishes come out as clean and sanitized as they would from a decent installed dishwasher.  To make sure this happens, though, you must take extra care loading the dishwasher and make certain the bottom sprayer isn't blocked--which can happen fairly easily with a poorly-designed rack.  For dishes as clean as they'd be from an installed washer, you must use a rinse-aid and the most powerful cleaning setting.  The technology isn't there yet for this be five stars, but the Edgestar represents a pretty solid shot at getting there.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3552, "id": 87935, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3553, "id": 87551, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3554, "id": 87567, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3555, "id": 182456, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 458, "len_tokens": 599, "text": "I purchased this online on 28 Dec 2013 and it arrived on 23 Jan 2014. I ordered it shipped to the curb at no extra cost, and my husband and son unpacked it and carried it into the house.  I had a local propane vendor come out and change out the orifices for $48.02 which included hooking the stove to the gas line.  Not all of the orifices were correct, i.e., the instructions showed 4 orifices alone for the front right burner (3 black, 1 white) and what was shipped were 2 black and 2 white.  I called GE and they're sending them via FedEx and should arrive within 1 week of receiving the stove.  So until they arrive, I won't be using that burner.  The installer had no problems following the attached directions for replacing the natural gas orifices with the propane orifices.  He obviously has a lot of experience as it took him less than a minute per orifice on the burners.  However, he did have a problem removing the bottoms of the ovens to get to those orifices.  Thank Goodness I decided to pay someone to do it.  It would have taken me HOURS!  For the price, at least $1000 less than Home Depot or Sears, I'm quite pleased with my purchase.  I can hear the convection fan when I bake in the lower oven, but it's not annoying.  I can cook with four big pots (10-inch diameter) on the stove at once.  However, I cannot cook with a 12-inch skillet and an 8-inch diameter pot on the same side at once.  I've posted some customer photos of my stove showing that it does not go all the way back against the wall as my gas line prevents it from doing so.  However, my last stove stuck out a little and I never noticed.  I'll get used to this one soon.  I almost purchased the Profile model of this stove; however, the Profile is 39-inches tall.  My counter height is 25.75 inches and I didn't wan't my stove to sit about 3 inches above the counters.  The Cafe version stands at most 26 inches with the legs fully extended. It's just a tiny bit too low and so my husband cut two boards upon which the stove sits.  It's now at the perfect height, i.e, about 1/2 inch above the counter tops. I can see a little bit of the boards under the feet, but I'm just going to paint them the color of my tile and ignore them.  My focus is having a very nice stove upon which to cook.  I love to cook and having two ovens is a must when I cook for a large family.  It's especially useful during family get-togethers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3556, "id": 270472, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 426, "len_tokens": 561, "text": "I had been looking for a solar refrigerator for my Sprinter van for some time. I found that the 12 DC chest style freezers were not only way too expensive, but they were too large and did not hold much food stuff. I also looked at many dorm fridges that would work with my Xantrex Prowatt 2000 inverter, however, the walls are thin and suck copious energy. Other alternatives such as RV fridges cost too much. So, I purchased the Whynter freezer and gave it a trial run. The unit is very quite and uses very little power. I use  (4)  6 volt golf cart batteries, ( 2) 100 watt solar panels and a Xantrex prowatt 2000 inverter. This system powers a 600 watt microwave and a 700 watt tea kettle along with the Whynter freezer. During day light hours, the batteries charge to 12.9 to 13.3 volts with the Whynter running. after all night operation, the battery charge will maybe drop down to 12.6 volts. This is predicated on normal usage of the microwave and tea kettle during road trips etc. . If we use the microwave alot, the fridge may pull down the batteries to 12.4 volts over night. But after a full day of sun, the batteries are again at over 12.9 volts . The best option for this freezer would be to use it to freeze (2)  1 gallon water jugs, and frozen foods. The freezer does not have to be run at night with frozen juggs of water in the bottom section of the unit. The walls on this unit are twice a thick as a dorm fridge. The door seal seals tightly also.\n\nAnyways. at $218 this fridge is top quality for the money. It has the reliability of a  beater proof a/c powered dorm fridge and will provide trouble free use compared to 12 volt DC freezer chests that cost $700. It also holds more food stuff than a chest style freezer while using way less space,  The only caveta is one has to run an inverter 24/7 which is not a problem.\n\nThe best solar fridge set up for a Sprinter van is as follows:\n\n(2) solar word 315 watt panels\n(4) 235 amp hour 6 volt costco gold cart batteries\n(1) Xantrex true sign wave prowatt 2000 inverter\n(1) 40 amp xantrex  battery charge controller\n\nThe Whynter freezer can be converted to a fridge with a digital tstat plug in controller.\n\nThis freezer is twice as thick as a dorm fridge and hold the cold like a champ.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3557, "id": 257147, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 417, "len_tokens": 575, "text": "I ordered the 2-pack of the Supco WF287 Refrigerator Water Filters&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Supco-WF287-Refrigerator-Water-Filter-Cartridge-2-Pack/dp/B00E37TQR4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Supco WF287 Refrigerator Water Filter Cartridge, 2-Pack</a>.  After the first order was not received (it was claimed to have been delivered to my home by UPS), Amazon quickly gave me a refund and ordered the replacement (since the price had decreased since my original order). I received the order within 4 days. I just installed the filter in my GE Profile refrigerator. Intallation was very easy, just follow the instructions on the Supco box:\n1. Twist off the old filter one half turn counterclockwise (note that this is looking from the bottom of the filter)\n2. Gently pull the filter straight down and discard (the water will shut off automatically)\n3. Fill the new filter with water (fill with water from your faucet)\n4. Push the new filter  up into the filter receiver in the refrigerator until it stops (you don't have to push hard,  just a little pressure)\n5. Twist the new filter one half turn clockwise\n6. If your refrigerator has a \"change filter\" light then you need to reset your \"change filter\" light. Presss and hold the \"reset water filter\" button for 3 seconds.\n7. Flush filter with 1 to 2 gallons of water to remove air, flow will sputter until air is removed\n\nA couple of notes:\na. The filter is in a sealed plastic bag inside the box, and has a plastic adhesive cover over the top of the filter.  When you remove the adhesive cover there should be a small black O-ring either inside the top of the filter or stuck to the adhesive cover. Place the O-ring inside the top of the filter - there is a small channel which accepts the O-ring around the inside of the top of the filter.\nb. When filling the new filter with water, continue filling until no more water will drain down into the filter, just keep adding a little water at a time - if you do this the filtered water will not sputter when flushing with the 1 to 2 gallons\n\nThis is the first time I have replaced the filter on this refrigerator, and I will come back and update my review when I change this filter to let you know how long it lasted, and if I have any problems with it.\n\nUpdate 7/14/15: I've used two of these Supco filters, and they performed flawlessly, just as good as the more expensive GE filters.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3558, "id": 189308, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 481, "len_tokens": 574, "text": "I have three of these monitoring temperature and humidity in my vacation home, and so far, they are doing a fine job. My vacation home is in coastal North Carolina where high humidity levels can lead to all sorts of mold and mildew problems and the humidity information I get from these units lets me anticipate and react to humidity levels automatically to keep humidity under control .\n\nIn my case, I have these sensors connected to a Homeseer unit (I have an older set connected to a Vera 3, and it works equally well). Pairing was easy, and so far everything has pretty much worked as advertised. You can run the sensor in a way that the sensor sends alerts only when certain thresholds are crossed (say, humidity exceeds 65% or drops below 45%)...in this case, there's not constant polling between the controller and the sensor, letting the batteries last much longer. You can also poll the device to query instantaneous conditions if you want to know the current conditions precisely. With lithium batteries, I'm expecting perhaps two years.\n\nI also like that the display is visible in the room where they are used. I don't need to go look at it from my home automation unit - at a glance, I can tell whether humidity is what I expect or not.\n\nI'm not completely sure how accurate these units are. I have a few other sensors that can report humidity, as well as an old fashioned hygrometer, and even when all the sensors are in a room just a few feet apart, they all report different numbers - often as much as 5% difference. Still, I just really care about the trend and whether humidity is increasing or decreasing...I use these conditions to control my dehumidifiers and HVAC system, and for that, it works well.\n\nOnly other issue I have with these units is that I wish there were a way to connect them to a power source other than the internal batteries. Some other brands have a micro-USB port that can be used to power the device without batteries - I'd definitely like to see something like this. Also, the programming process is a bit confusing with too many buttons to push...I'd rather have a \"wake up\" button on the device, and then use Z-wave commands to program the unit the way I want. Minor issues overall though.\n\nOn my Homeseer, I have software that uses current and forecast weather conditions to switch between ventilation only, dehumidification and air conditioning, and I'm able to automatically keep humidity levels where I want them without running dehumidification 24x7 - and saving me at least $50/month in electricity. Since I'm not always there, I need high reliability and confidence that the system will work properly unattended, and so far the Everspring units have more than met expectations.\n\nDefinitely recommended.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3559, "id": 71869, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 446, "len_tokens": 542, "text": "We were desperate for a new hook up for our dryer. Our new house has, as most everyone it seems, an awkward laundry room. Space is of the essence. We initially hooked it up using the flex tubing. But, it was crushed (yes, really not a good idea), and wouldn't hold the connection well. It kept coming undone and was blowing too much heat and lint out, yes, again, not a good idea.  After some research, found this contraption. I initially found the larger one by whirlpool, but it was too long at its shortest, but a little more research and found this size.\n\nI read all the reviews, preparing for the idiosyncrasies of this item. I did a few things I read in reviews:\n\n- measure, with the vent periscope, the distance between the dryer and the wall vent in as close to the position it will end up as possible.\n- draw, with a permanent marker, a line on each end where the excess is.  If you have none, just skip all this.\n- cut with tin snips, wearing gloves!, the excess. (This is REALLY easy. It's soft aluminum. Just be very careful about the sharp edges!). Could use good, strong kitchen shears too.\n- using aluminum tape, duct work tape, not duct tape, tape the edges for safety.  This is needed for when you install it.\n\nI thought that all was going to be a challenge, it really wasn't. Actually very easy.\n\nTo install was a little challenge, less than our flex tubing, but not without a little sweat equity.  We needed to slightly bend out the wall vent port. It had edges that kept folding in when we tried to push the male connector in, great idea btw! Once in place, then we just taped around that with the same aluminum duct tape. Easy once we got it in place.\n\nConnecting the vent to the dyer was fairly easy, except that the box edges of this vent can make it awkward.  Our only real concern was that the dryer connection would pop off while we were figuring out the wall vent issues. It is soft aluminum, so it can't actually handle a lot of twisting around before something pops out, off, or disconnects.  But neither could our well tightened flex tubing either......\n\nOverall, despite any complications, this was a perfect solution to our much needed space laundry room.  I recommend it highly. Only lost a star because it wasn't a one person job for us, and took over 30 min to work with modifications we made to make it fit well. Would still highly recommend and would buy this item again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3560, "id": 165072, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 448, "len_tokens": 531, "text": "Overall, the Bosch SHE3AR72UC is a great dishwasher and I'm very happy with it. First, you have to understand the model numbers - the SHX models have hidden controls and the SHE models have front panel controls (both are very easy to use). The AR7 has an LED display a few more cycle options than the AR5. But the important thing is that all the different combinations in the \"Ascenta\" series have the exact same innards so you should read the reviews of all of them as they are pretty much the same unit.\n\nThe dishwasher cleans very well - probably the best cleaning of any dishwasher I've ever used. No complaints there. And it's VERY quiet, which is nice.\n\nContrary to what was said by other reviewers about the dishwashers in this series, I have not had any problems with spotting in the slightest, even with the rinse agent set to use the minimum amount. I think that might be a function of the water quality (we never used a rinse agent at all with our previous dishwasher and never had a problem with spotting).\n\nOverall, I only have two complaints. As others have noted, the configuration of the dish racks is really strange and it makes for very awkward loading. I'm not quite sure what the designers were thinking. The 'prongs' that hold the dishes upright are way too close together, so you can't easily load soup bowls or deep-dish plates. Then there are \"speed bumps\" on the right and left sides of the upper rack, going all the way from front to back, where you'd normally put glasses and cups - so cups don't sit flat and tend to tip over if they're not loaded with something next to them. I'm sure there's some reason for this design, but I haven't figured it out.\n\nMy second complaint is an installation issue I had. I purchased the hose kit which I was told was required, and it included an 'L' connector for the incoming water line. However, when the connector is screwed all the way in so that it doesn't leak, it's pointing the wrong direction and it's IMPOSSIBLE to connect the hose. After trying it about six different times, and spending an hour on the phone with customer service, I ended up removing the bracket that holds the incoming water connector and just letting it drop to the ground so there was room for the water line to be connected. It's not pretty, but it's hidden by the front plate - and it seems to work. They also didn't include the strain relief for the electrical line, which I thought was pretty cheap.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3561, "id": 394827, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 477, "len_tokens": 578, "text": "I bought the top load SpeedQueen AWN432 from  a local appliance store and paid for them to deliver, set up, and haul away my 7 yr old Whirlpool Estate. I opened the hot and cold water faucets that spill into my work sink, as someone suggested after the machine was installed, to get rid of any junk in the line. It was surprising that the water from those faucets was black, but then after running a minute changed to clear. My machine did not come with a nasty film inside that had to be removed. The dealer told me that Speed Queen was aware of that problem and resolved it, so nobody has to deal with that any more. That being said, the dealer said that they do recommend that you run it once with detergent and no clothes before using for good. I did that, and then proceeded to do 2 wash loads. GREAT RESULTS> the machine does everything I wanted, and more. No annoying locking lids, has an extra rinse cycle when needed, delicate cycle, prewash cycle, as well as the usual regular and permanent press cycles.\nI did tons of research before buying this machine, and was dismayed by all I read re. the Whirlpools, Maytags, Hotpoints, GEs, Kenmores, etc. I did not want an HE, and would have hated a frontload. My dtr has a front loading HE machine that has constant issues with mold. She hates it, and spent a fortune for it. So, I wanted a simple old fashioned machine that would be well made and have the simple options I was used to. This satisfies all that I wanted.\nThe man who installed it and hauls away people's old machines said he feels it is the best out there, and will save you a ton of money in the long run because it is built to last. He said he is constantly hauling away fairly new machines made by other companies, particularly Whirlpools; that the old ones were good, but the new ones are awful and break quickly. So, that reinforced what I already thought. I never thought I would be excited about getting a new washing machine, but I have to say that this one is great! It also has plenty of room for a very large wash. It is slightly noisy, but that doesn't bother me.\nLast but not least, it is in my basement, and fits perfectly in a rather small space behind bifold doors. It is actually narrower than my old machine but deeper, which was great for me. The dials are easy to read, and also very easy to turn. Some reviewer said that the dials were hard to turn. I don't have the strongest hands, and had no problem at all. In fact, they were extremely easy to turn. I\nHIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS MACHINE!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3562, "id": 87591, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3563, "id": 181375, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 475, "len_tokens": 574, "text": "First it took close to a month for me to get this.  When I got it I was pretty excited.  The excitement started faltering when I realized the hose was too short.  I wanted to sit this on my kitchen floor instead of my small counter top but the hose it comes with is too small and only works at a funky high angle.\nNext I put my work out set, two sweaters, two face cloths, some socks and some underwear in it and it didn't even agitate.  I guess I fell for the 5.5 lb capacity it claims it has.  So I had to take some clothes out and let it sit until I could get done with what I could get done.\nOnce the first load was done I had to rinse them out in my kitchen sink and then put it in clean water and put in fabric softener.  This was a daunting task because I had two more loads I had to do.  The first load caused me to have to separate them into three loads.  When the loads were 'finally' done I realized they were so dingy.  I don't even think the washer cleaned these loads.\nI ended up moving to another apartment and this apartment has a bit more counter space than my last apartment but the same went with the hose.  I now had a sprayer that I could work with(other apt. didn't have this).  This time I only did underclothes and my whites came out dirty white.  It looked like I never cleaned them.\nAfter having to rinse out my clothes first before putting them back in this washer with fabric softner I realized I wasted money.  Even though I used this twice it was twice as disappointing as wasting money at the laundromat.  I'm going to have to suck it up, save for a bigger portable washer that has a rinse cycle and probably sell this thing.\n\n***UPDATE 7-10-13**\nI haven't purchased a bigger washer yet and I still have this Panda washer.  I learned a great trick with this that has allowed me to be able to wash a semi load of clothes.  I still have to do separate rinses but the bigger load is better.  For those who have this like me or is considering getting this, load the water to the amount you want.  Turn on the washer, wait till the water begins to agitate and one by one throw in the item of clothes you want washed.  When I did this I was able to wash one body towel, one medium towel, two face cloths, 3 shirts, and work out clothes(pants, top, scarf).  It still takes over two hours to do about 3 loads of clothes but it sure beats paying $1.75 to wash & $1.50 to dry.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3564, "id": 394464, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 435, "len_tokens": 565, "text": "Well I am also a newbie to the whole kegerator and really only did air pressurized kegs once or twice.  I research the heck out of any major purchase and this wasn't any different.  I had some reservations about what I read about the temperature controls of this kegerator but I liked the reviews on Amazon, Edgestar, and related forums, so I pulled the trigger.  The package tracking wasn't what I was used to with Amazon Prime and I didn't realize it but free 2-day shipping wasn't an option.  I believe I ordered this on a Saturday and it arrived on a Wednesday evening.  Overall I am really pleased.  In my research I found that alot of people had issues with foaming, I also knew that the main product I would I would be using would be 1/6 kegs with retail hard cider products.  I found a lot of info on self brewing cider but not a lot on retail ciders (particularly recommended regulated CO2 pressure and temperatures for product itself.  I asked my retailer about pressure and he didn't really know.  So anyway here is what all I purchased and how it turned out.  I got this Kegerator, Kegerator Tower Cooler, Beer line Neoprene Coupling Washers, Kegerator Cleaning Kit, and Taylor 5924 Food Service Classic Series Freezer-Refrigerator Thermometer (which hasn't arrived yet).  The cooling tower on this kegerator is lightly insulated with thin styrofoam (which seems adequate) similar to what you would see in packaging.  As I stated before I also purchased a tower cooler right off the bat.  Assembly was failrly simple with use of videos on youtube.  I experienced no leaks in CO2 lines that I know of at this point.  I se the temp on roughly 2 on the control and my retailer chilled the the Angry Orchard 1/6th keg prior to me picking it up.  I put the keg in the kegerator after getting it home and let it sit untapped for about 3 hours.  I then tapped it and set the regulator at about 13.5psi.  One note I would like to have seen a high pressure gauge on the regulator to show the pressure on the bottle to allow you to know how full your CO2 bottle is.  I  tried to remove the plug for the high pressure side and seems like it is \"locktite\"d or something so rather than mess up the regulator I just tightened it back up and let it be.  First pour was perfect as were the rest.  Haven't tried any other beer.  I would recommend this product to anyone considering an inexpensive kegerator.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3565, "id": 127213, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 469, "len_tokens": 560, "text": "first of all, we just installed it and haven't officially used it yet as the house is still undergoing the remodel. so my review is more on the installation and 1st impression.\n-Installation-\nas previous reviewer mentioned. the vent on this range hood is actually 8\" not 6\" as stated in the spec over Amazon site. So you must purchase a reducer if you plan to use 6\" pipe, unless you want to use 8\" vent pipe.\nMy husband and a male friend and myself install this range hood and it's heavy. especially that when the attached screws head have extremely little tolerance to go through the holes on the hood. We hold up the range hood, mark the holes and drill the screws in place, but we had such hard time to fit the screws, mainly because screws head are just hair smaller than the holes on range hood. So we end up removing all screws; holding up the range hood, and screw each screw in place. due to our cabinet is solid wood, we have to pre-drill first, before screw on the screws.\n\n-installation manual-\nneed improvement in explanation. you can tell it's done/translated from a different language (like all things made in China). it could have been more detail, especially for those who want to install this product themselves, not by professional.\n\noverall looks very nice and sharp. it's built very sturdy (that's why it's heavy\"). feels and looks good quality. I love it that you can remove the stainless steel filter and place them in dish washer every so often to keep it clean. I picked this 900CFM, because i hate smelling food in the bedroom. although I don't know how well this one work. I'll update the actual usage later.\n\nUPDATE AFTER 1 YEAR USE:\nI cook Chinese stir fry, Indian curry dishes, which have strong smell. The range hood works wonderfully. Then for no reason, it stop working. Because it a very sleek touch panel control, we had hard time to figure out what went wrong. So we contact AKDY, and described the issues of what works and what don't work. 2 days later, we received an email from their customer service engineer, Bryan F. He has been very helpful and right away sent us the circuit board and the control panel free of charge, together with the detail diagram of how to change. We change the control panel and everything works perfect, right in time for the Thanksgiving cooking. The service is outstanding and fast.\n\nCONCLUSION:\nWe love this range hood. it works as expected. and how AKDY provide the customer service is why we highly recommend this to those who is considering this product. We have received a lot of compliment of how sleek it looks in our kitchen.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3566, "id": 341299, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 423, "len_tokens": 524, "text": "We needed to replace our Maytag washer and dryer of 37 years (still running, but a bit noisy).  Of course Maytag is now cheap junk and we never would consider purchasing it in it's current form.\n\nDid a lot of research and finally settled on Speed Queen because of their extraordinary quality. Not just the outer appearance, but because of the top grade components used throughout. (How many other washers offer a lifetime warranty on the inner and out tub)?\n\nI was against front loaders because of all the problems that others are having, (mold, will not unlock with done, more service required, lack of being able to service properly and get manufacture to honor warranty, not washing clothes properly requiring two or more re-washes, etc., etc. etc.).\n\nWife chose another top loader as we are getting older and she doesn't like bending over. One excellent selling feature was she was able to reach to the bottom of the tub while standing flat-footed on the floor (she's 5'-4\"). Many other top-loaded brands needed a step stool to reach the bottom of the tub, something to seriously consider before you buy.\n\nNice large agitator which turns 210. (Some we looked at had a tiny, little nub which they called an \"agitator\". Don't make me laugh, they couldn't wash a dish rag properly.)\n\nInterior and exterior basket is made from high quality stainless steel. (Way to tell if it's high quality stainless (308, 316 grade) is to take a fridge magnet along and test it. A magnet will NOT stick to high quality stainless, it WILL stick to low quality stainless.)\n\nHas a three year warranty on complete washer. (Some we looked at have only a 90 day warranty. Three months! What a joke. If the manufacturer doesn't believe in their product, why should I be expected to)?\nFive years on cabinet steel, motor and fifteen years on transmission. Inner and out tubs carry a lifetime warranty.\n\n<And it's made in America>\n\nWe bought from a local dealer as we wanted to have a local service agent available should it require service, and for proper installation. However, if your modestly inclined, you shouldn't have any problems installing. Remember it weighs a couple of hundred pounds before you order.\n\nOverall she loves it. Everything about it. It's quiet, works perfectly, cleans well and fast. I've never used it, but like its simplicity and quality of materials. No negatives whatsoever. We expect it to well out live both of us. Now, that's saying something.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3567, "id": 88327, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3568, "id": 422122, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 401, "len_tokens": 502, "text": "Our water dispenser stopped working.  I thought it was the filter that I had not changed in years.  I did not bother, because all the GE filter did was enable the water and ice accessories to work.  East Orange, NJ, water is the nastiest I have tasted, short of well water with its attendant odors and flavorings from whatever contaminants some (s)elohssa dumped on the ground. At least my hosts were not paying for this experience.  We pay for this allegedly treated public water and gov't rated VERY HARD water. It is barely drinkable, even holding my nose, without a reaction literally just shy of the body's automatic wretch and hurl response.  I digress.\n\nAt the price of these filters, if they did no better than the OEM filters, it would not be such an offensive loss. However, these filters, at 1/6 the price?  In fact, this price makes them less expensive than a filter bypass pipe.  Thus, if they only did the work of a bypass valve, the way I have been using the OEM filters, I was still ahead of the game.\n\nIt turns out that the problem I thought was a clogged filter was a leaking line, which I replaced in all of an hour, counting the time to get a replacement line from the orange box place.  After some time for the system to purge came the moment of truth.  Were these filters any better or worse than the OEM filters?\n\nI dispensed my first glass, nervously put it to my lips, expecting the just shy of gag and puke response to which I was accustomed for 10 years. I was pleasantly shocked!  The water was drinkable!  I did not get the near gag and puke feeling!  I could actually drink two to three glasses (I decided to not push it) without wanting to return it immediately to its source.  Hence, my title, translated, more in quantity, better quality at an 83% off the OEM filters I highly recommend this product.\n\nWhy do I give it only four stars?  The OEM impotence forced us to find an alternative.  COSTCO had a great deal a few years ago on the ZERO system.  This filtration system almost makes this nasty East Orange water sweet!  Thus, while these filters take the water past drinkable to almost desirable, they have only alleviated, not obviated, our use of the ZERO system.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3569, "id": 89199, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 433, "len_tokens": 522, "text": "The reason we choose this particular model was that it seems to be the ONLY smooth cooktop of any major brand with downdraft exhaust and a bridge element.\nWe've had our GE downdraft cooktop for about two years now. In another home we'd had a smooth cooktop before and really missed it. It heats quickly and has a lot of different heating element configurations for a 4-eye 30\" cooktop. It has a melt setting, a small/large eye setting, and a bridge element for double burner griddles and grills. Overall it has been great and we enjoy it.\nI do have a couple of complaints now. The knobs have a cheap look and feel. GE should just upgrade this model or make an optional model with electronic touch controls. We'd have that one if it existed.\nSecondly, when using the bridge element and the back left eye for a double-burner griddle pan the temp control for the front left and bridge element seems to be not calibrated right or something. The griddle over that eye and bridge section, seems to me, to get incredibly hot at no more than setting 3 (that's out of 10). If I do not monitor it closely I can burn a pancake in about 30 seconds.\nWhen under warranty, GE sent a technician out and he ordered and replaced the element and the thing that controls the heat. I've got to say GE's service was outstanding and it is very nice that GE has thier own service team rather than it being out sourced to local appliance repair companies. These guys work only on GE products. However, even after the replacement the problem still exists so I am guessing it is just a quirk of the cooktop. You can use the burner/bridge setup you just have to be very careful with the adjustment. Seems you go from low to high in a 1/4\" of a knob twist.\nFor those who have not had a glass cooktop before, yes, they are harder to keep looking clean, but being diligent on wiping up messes and spills quickly helps a lot. This one in particular is a little tougher to keep that pristine look because outside of the demarcations for the eyes there are no graphics. Most smooth cooktops have some sort of light speckling on the cooktop which helps to hide little smears and streaks. We have been able to keep it looking nice. There are some minor scratches on the right front burner now, but probably due to our own carelessness.\nI will update my review if anything changes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3570, "id": 383004, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 435, "len_tokens": 500, "text": "I compared this range hood with a few similar ones sold at higher prices on Amazon.com but did not see big differences between this one and ones with a price tag of more than double amount. Considering the hassle (and cost if you hires a contractor) of installation, I hesitated to buy a cheap range hood. Nonetheless, it will become the attention center in the middle of the kitchen. At the end of the day, I decided to take the risk. Now I am happy this range hood meets or exceeds my expectation. The range hood was well packaged and protected with a very solid box, an indication of manufacturer paying attention to value its product. Once it was installed over the cooktop and protective plastic cover pulled away from the stainless steel chimney, it shines as if it were a name brand expensive piece of kitchen appliance. The touch screen certainly adds some flavor of 21st century appliance taste. Function-wise, it is acceptably quiet at the highest speed and very quiet (people sitting on breakfast table not sure it is on or not) at the lowest speed. The sucking power is within expectation, with the understanding that a range hood over the island won't be as efficient as one against a wall. The installation is typical of this type range hood. If you have exhaust pipe, power supply, and ceiling support structure already in-place, it probably takes less than two hours for two men to get it done. I spent a long weekend on installation because I had to cut ceiling to build a solid wood frame as supporting structure and build 8-foot pipe through exterior wall with no attic access.\n\nI did not give it 5-star because these two factors: 1). The manual for installation and operation was poorly written. Another review mentioned she/he did not figure out how to change the clock. The manual indeed did not cover that. After some trial-and-error, here is the trick: you hold clock button for two 2 seconds until digits flash, use light button to change hour and use fan speed button to change minutes. 2). The lights are not bright and they are that kind of cold, pure white LED light. The lack of brightness not a big problem for me since the recessed lights are so bright in my kitchen that I usually dim them half way down. Still, it would be better if the 4 LED lights could be brighter.\n\nIt's been installed for less than a week. If anything happens which might impact the rate, I will update this review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3571, "id": 124216, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 400, "len_tokens": 503, "text": "I'm not a newcomer to this repair, I had done it a few years ago on a similar machine, so knew just what to expect.\n\nYou'll know you need a new tranny when your machine sounds like a freight train roaring thru your house when it goes into spin cycle.  And from my previous research, there's no way to replace the worn bearing in this unit, and once it goes bad enough to make the racket, it'll only get worse and probably eventually self-destruct.\n\nYour first problem could be pulling the agitator out, it does come out without any fasteners or the like, just some sharp upward yanks.  That wasn't working, so inserted some shims under the base from side to side until it popped free.  Some folks have used a rope to help with that.\n\nNext, as many folks discover, you'll find removing the hub nut is, well, a tough nut. You can buy a special wrench, but that doesn't mean the nut will yield. It's an 1 11/16\" size, good luck finding a deep socket that'll fit at a reasonable price.  After using various tools and hammers, I gave up and drilled, chiseled the old one out, it is aluminum so will break up, just try not to damage the tub hub itself.  Of course, you'll need a new nut so be sure to order that.\n\nThe next steps aren't so bad, this unit does come with a new seal (rubber) so you won't need that.\n\nAs far as the unit I got from Amazon (actually Amazon Warehousedeals), I selected what they called 'used', I thought long and hard about that, after all I wouldn't want a really used unit where the bearing is about to go anyway.  But read what Amazon means by that, and to confirm, the actual unit looked totally unused, the packaging was very secure, so saved a few bucks going that way.  And a whole lot versus an appliance store.\n\nBefore you go thru the expense and trouble of this job, you should evaluate the overall condition of your machine, if it's worth the investment or buying new.  That's always a risk but if you can do it yourself it's probably worth it.  I cringe to think what a professional repair would cost between list price and labor, that can't be cost effective.\n\nNow what to do with the old unit...?...Boat anchor?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3572, "id": 296776, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 431, "len_tokens": 517, "text": "Bought 2 weeks ago to replace a 15 year old traditional top load washer. In the 1st few weeks I have done 2-3 loads daily of every kind of washing imaginable; filthy work clothes, old cat blankets, white cotton bedding, delicates, pillows & cushions, and even small floor rugs. Although it uses very little water, this machine washed all loads without a hitch and everything came out very clean and almost dry. Odd loads like pillows are automatically balanced so the loads spins until quite dry. If not balanced the machine will stop and re-balance itself, and re-spin. As a result, our dryer is now working less, since clothes come out of the washer so much dryer.\n\nJust be sure to read and follow all the instructions and forget about all your old, past wash-day habits. Be sure to use less soap than you did with your old top loader, and be sure your soap is an HE recommended soap. This is not your Grandma's old top loader!  It is way better because it will end up saving you $100's in hot water and energy costs in it's lifetime, as well as washing your clothes very clean.\n\nOverall I am very impressed and would highly recommend this simple, good value machine.\n\n--------------------\n\nEdit 9/22/15\nOur Samsung WF42H5000AW continues to perform perfectly after 6 months.\n\nWe are following all the instructions as found in the included manual - to the letter - forgetting all our old \"top loader\" washing habits. As a result, our clothes come out of this machine cleaner, dryer and less damaged than at any time using top load washers over the past 25 years. On top of that, our electricity bill has dropped between $30 - $40 per month due to this washer using less hot water than our old top loader machines and, because the clothes come out dryer at the end of a wash cycle, our dryer has less work to dry our clothes.\n\nLiving in a hot & humid climate washing machine smells are a constant problem no matter the type or model, and I have read several reviews about this Samsung getting smelly after a time. So, as instructed in the manual, we gently dry the door gasket after each wash with a dry towel to pick up any excess water and also do a \"self clean\" cycle after every 40 wash loads. So far no bad smells yet.\n\nWe have not had any dependability or reliability issues at all. So I would continue to highly recommend this washer based on a $650 price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3573, "id": 466585, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 490, "len_tokens": 584, "text": "I needed a 30 inch free standing gas range.\nWhat I wanted was 4 burners (not 5), and an oven.\nThat's it. No bells or whistles. Nothing extra. Just a simple design that was VERY WELL MADE..ACCURATE & PRECISE.\nI looked at all the high end names, and read all the reviews. The icon seemed to be the best product for the money.\nThere were not allot of reviews for this particular item, and of the small number of reviews, some raved and some were dissatisfied. I was a bit stressed from the not so good reviews, but went ahead and bought this range.\nI am a person who loves to cook, and bake. I was hoping for precision, controlling the burners, and an oven that was consistent.\nI am happy to report that this stove delivered.\nI was prepared to have the gas air controls adjusted, (which would not be uncommon), but did not need to have anything adjusted.\nThe combination of the size and power of the burners works well for me, and they all have the ability to be adjusted precisely.\nThe oven is accurate and holds consistently.\nAfter reading so many opinions, I have to admit that I don't understand how people go to some discount store, and grab an appliance because the price is low, (especially an appliance of this caliber), and then expect miracles from it when there is no responsible customer-store relationship; no one who cares if the appliance was placed on the truck, and delivered with care, and respect; no one to call locally for help with any questions or problems that they may have.\nI purchased my stove from a reputable family appliance store._(for as good a price as I had seen anywhere), Although I was happy with it right from the start, the store encouraged me to call with any questions, and assured me that if I needed any adjustments, they would promptly send an experienced service person.\nThis is a really nice unit for someone who enjoys cooking and appreciates simplicity._(I do not miss any of the useless electronics)\nWhen the oven is holding at 450 degrees, the stove top, and controls remain cool to the touch. This tells me that the oven is well insulated. The weight of the stove and solid feel of the controls tells me that the stove was put together with care and integrity.\nThere is a learning curve with every new item. No two stoves or ovens will work exactly the same. Just go with it. That is how you become proficient.\nYes I would recommend this stove to those who demand and appreciate the value of a well made tool.\nSIX MONTHS LATER:\nI am amazed at how pleased I am.\nI look forward to using it everyday.\nI love it's simplicity.. Not even a clock or timer. Just a great stove.\n(MADE IN USA, some parts possibly from Mexico)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3574, "id": 301230, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 474, "len_tokens": 568, "text": "The hood seems to be well constructed with smooth bends and tight seams.\nI didn't like and didn't use the recommend installation procedure as I don't think it's safe. They instruct you to insert the plastic wall anchors but they won't work in sheet rock as the section of the anchor that expands is inside the wall not the sheet rock. They must be made for cinder block or brick.\nAlso their idea of leaving the screw heads sticking out about 1/4\" so you can hang the hood on it is not safe. The screw heads are barely wide enough to not pop through the top of the keyhole mounting slot and the bottom of the slot is twice the size of the screw head. So the hood is just hanging on the  screws (you are not instructed to tighten them) and a accidental bump up on either side could cause the hood to fall off the wall. If you don't put the screw holes perfectly level and try to level as little as 1/2 degree one or the other screws will be in the bottom of the slot and the hood can not be secured to the wall. What I did was use a 1/4\" toggle bolt on a piece 1/4\" all thread rod. Place the toggle on one end and a 1/4\" fender washer and nut on the other end. Push the toggle into the sheet rock hole until it expands then pull it back and tighten down the nut. This gives you two 1/4\" studs on which to hang the hood. I put the rubber bumper washers over the studs and nuts and hung the hood on the studs. Then reach inside the hood where the studs stick through and install another 1/4\" fender washer and nut on each stud. It's very tight inside the hood and you may have to move a cable to get the fender washers on. Tighten the nuts down using a ratchet and socket. A 1/4\" drive works best because it's smaller. No room in there for a nut driver. Now the hood will not fall off the wall.\nThe hood lights are very pretty but are practically useless for illumination of the range top. They make a nice nightlight for your kitchen, otherwise useless. They should be 3-4 times as bright. My old hood top provided a lot more light.\nThe hood fan doesn't work so great either. I was blackening chicken on front burner and the hood captured maybe half of the smoke. The rest filled the kitchen. It seemed to do better if the the back range element is used vs the front. The 28\" distance between the hood and the top of my range is well within their criteria (25-35 inches) of the hood.\nIt does look pretty but functionally it's Meh", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3575, "id": 87383, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3576, "id": 88479, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3577, "id": 58220, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 432, "len_tokens": 516, "text": "I desperately needed to get one of these portable ice makers, since I live in an apartment where the fridge does not have an ice maker and getting one is not an option. I waited until I found a unit for a price I was willing to pay and this Emerson unit fit the bill.\n\nYes, the unit is big and heavy. But it is so great to be able to have as much ice as you want whenever you want. The unit makes ice beautifully, in three different sizes. The cubes are a bit smaller than I expected, but that's OK. You can always select the large setting for bigger cubes. (I usually use medium.) The unit makes 9 cubes at a time, and it takes maybe 20 minutes to make the first batch of ice, maybe 10-15 minutes for consecutive batches.\n\nThe cubes are tubular in shape, with holes in the middle. The design makes them easy to put in Ziploc bags and store in your freezer until needed. (No need to run the machine every single day!) If they stick together, a little whack should separate the cubes.\n\nA couple of things to keep in mind:\n\nBefore using the unit for the first time, add a little vinegar to the water and let the machine run. Dump the ice and and drain the water. Then, do a run with some lemon juice in the water. Again, dump the ice and drain. Then do a few runs with clean water. If you don't do this, the ice will have a bit of a chemical taste, even after several runs. (I thought several runs of plain water would clear up the taste, but it didn't. The vinegar and lemon juice, however, did the trick beautifully.) Also, you should probably use filtered water for a cleaner taste. (I use water from my sink that has gone through my Pur facuet filter.)\n\nThe plug for the water drainage is VERY small. Be careful with it. Also, because the plug is so small, draining the water takes a while. Gently tilting the unit (carefully!) will help to slightly speed up the process.\n\nSo yes, the machine has a few minor flaws, but the convenience more than makes up for it. It is great to have ice whenever needed, and it is so cool to watch the machine in action, when the built-in \"spatula\" scoops up the ice and tilts it into the basket! This is one of the best kitchen appliances I have ever bought, and I'm hopeful it will last for many years!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3578, "id": 193191, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 448, "len_tokens": 553, "text": "I was a little leary about purchasing a brand I've never heard of and this item to me looked like it was too good to be true for the price.  I can't comment on customer service, but here is what I've found with the unit itself.\n\nEasy installation once you get the 8\" vent kit.  Simple mount and plug in.\nLooks almost commercial grade and added some class to our kitchen.  It is easily scratchable though.\n\nThe blue LED matches the Samsung appliances perfectly.\nThe fan is amazing.\n\nThe remote and touch panel leave a little to be desired.\nThe auto sensor in mine doesn't work perfectly and the screen seems a little delicate. We have a love hate relationship.\n\nThe unit sucks steam and scents out like a champion and it looks suitable for a high class kitchen.  Far better than any thing else I found in it's price range during my crusade for a range hood. I searched through lowes,home depot,sears,amazon,ebay, you name it nothing even came close in comparison.\n\nUPDATE*****\nAfter using this range hood for a year I decided to come back and update.  I've been experiencing issues with the unit turning itself on \"a lot\" and cycling itself through modes.  I've unplugged it a number of times because it has a mind of it's own.  Now, it is an everyday occurrence.  I contacted Golden Vantage customer service to see if they are willing to stand behind their product and send me a replacement on 11/06/2014. Apparently, it is very common with Golden Vantage products.  The gas sensor is buggy and they have no fix for this issue even on current model.  They gave up trying to get a proper fix and now have a video on youtube they direct you to in order to disconnect the sensor yourself.  I wasn't offered a replacement, only advised to perform service on the unit and disconnect the sensor.  The representative did offer to send a new sensor, but explained they don't use them on the current model which is basically the same thing with the sensor disconnected because it is so problematic.\n\nI'm seriously disappointed that I bought this for $400 bucks and the 3 year warranty only covers parts, no labor.\n\nWorse though, they are fully aware of the fact that the unit is faulty and have no intention on resolving the issue.  The gas sensor feature plays a part in the units value, yet I was offered no reimbursement, nor entire unit replacement.\n\nHere is the link Golden Vantage will refer you to for this issue and it is the best solution they offer for this known issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYLqD6aU6xk", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3579, "id": 64099, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 443, "len_tokens": 579, "text": "Range hoods can be bought at almost any price, from under $100 to more than $2,000.  We chose this one to replace an old hood that did not have enough airflow, so any serious grilling was accompanied by smoke detector beeping.  The gold standards for hoods are cubic-feet-per-minute (CFM) and noise.  A well-made unit will run more smoothly, creating less mechanical noise than a cruder one.  This one is very quiet.  If offers infinite speed-control range.  At full speed, it exhausts 460 CFM, a good, but not astonishing rate.  Even a good hood still makes more noise if it moves more air, and there's no way around that.  We found that this unit operates quietly and exhausts a great deal more air than the old unit it replaced.\n\nWe noted an earlier review that mentioned that the box was somewhat inadequate.  We agree, but our unit did arrive undamaged, despite some dings in the cardboard.\n\nTo make installation easier, you remove the blower and motor assembly, so only the sheet-metal shell needs to be supported.  After mounting is complete, the blower re-attaches easily and plugs in with a single connector.  It does take two people, at least briefly, so one can support the unit while the other installs the first couple of screws.\n\nThe 893004 can exhaust from the top or the back.  You remove a metal knockout for the one you want to use.  It's intended to be hard-wired, with a knockout for a clamp to hold the electrical cable.  When installed, the electrical connection is near the right end of the top rear of the unit.  You supply the clamp for the knockout, depending what kind of cable is used in your home.\n\nThe installation took an hour or so.  Replacing an existing vented hood, as we were, is relatively easy.  If you must do the duct work to outside through the wall or ceiling, that's a considerably larger job.  As with any task, planning and doing is easier, as they say, than doing and then planning and then doing!\n\nThe lamp sockets accept two regular bulbs (not supplied) of up to 75 watts.  A three-position switch lets you turn on one or both lamps, but they are not dimmable beyond that.  We used two 60-watt equivalent LED bulbs, which work well and save money over time.\n\nIf you're considering this hood, we recommend it.  You can review  the installation instructions beforehand, which I recommend, at the company website, [...] . While the Broan name is less-well-known than its sister brand, NuTone, it is a company that has been around a long time, and is likely to continue to be.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3580, "id": 43892, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 487, "len_tokens": 586, "text": "First off, humidifiers are the secret to beautiful youthful skin. And no flues or colds. Happier kids and babies too.\nI run mine 24/7 even in the summer. Because I don't want dry air though I'm using the air conditioner. Dry air is bad for you.\n\nPro's.\nIf you want gorgeous skin, great nails, have a humidifier running 24/7.\nKeeps household healthier: less flu, colds and allergens because air is cleaner without adding dust to air. It collects dust.\nIf you want healthy organs, they need moisture too. It's already been proven that people with humidifiers do better in the winter with less sickness. We never get sick.\nWhen you run a humidifier the home feels warmer. Your humidity should be around 30-35% at all times in the house. Not so much that you have water on the windows. Not so little that your throat, hair skin feel dry.\nI could not live without this humidifier. I have tried so many. They don't have enough output for large spaces, and they don't clean the air. That is huge for us because we pets.\n\nMaintenance:\nIts up to you to take care of it. That means you clean it weekly and then major once a month.\nWe don't use the cleaners. My husband cleans it once a week with clr and sometimes plain vinegar and water. He also takes a toothbrush and cleans the wheels of algae, build up.\nWe also don't use the additive in the water. That defeats the purpose of being healthy. If you let the water sit without running, sure you will get bacteria and algae but we change it daily. You have to.\n\nCons:\nOkay the clicking noise does exist -it comes and goes. But for us it was only after we had it for a few years. This machine is funny. Its haunted. Sometimes it works perfectly with zero noise and other days, its clicking and then since ours is so old, it stops working. When it started to drive me nuts after 5 years and we thought we needed a new one, my husband broke the whole unit down and cleaned everything-fans and all. Kind of did major maintenance on it. So if you can't do this yourself you gotta take it and get it maintained.  We will probably need a new one sometime this year. This time I'm going to buy two. One smaller one for the living room and kitchen and the same size one for the master bedroom.\n\nThey are still the best humidifiers on the market despite their issues. You simply have to be a bit handy and put effort in to maintain this machine. If you are a low maintenance person, than use all the venta products to wash the unit and follow them to a t. But you will still have to clean the dust that gets on the fans and keep that area clean.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3581, "id": 64084, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 475, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Five stars IF this hood lasts and works anything like the near-identical hood it replaces!\n\nWarning:  this hood is designed for through-to-the-roof venting and is kind of tricky to retrofit for an amateur DIY-er. (I wondered why the Broan site had so many vent-into-the-kitchen models... now we know...) It's heavy even with the blower out and in our installation was hard to fit into the ducting, which had enough play in it to slither about (but also enough to make it possible to install the new hood at all). There is a front panel on the old hood which hides a vent opening into the kitchen (didn't try to push it out on the new hood)--  why it's there at all I'm not sure.\n\nI got this hood to replace one which was installed many, many years ago and caught grease vapor and frying odors from my true restaurant range's 26,000 BTU gas burners reliably and continuously. It has a two-position mechanical switch (no touch panels for anything) for the two lightbulbs, another two-part (one turns it on, the other adjusts the fan speed) mechanical switch adjusts fan levels from whisper to whoosh, and a sensor which turns the blower on automatically (to whoosh) when the air passing past it gets hot enough to wake it up. Grease vapors are caught by two large panels of aluminum mesh, quite scrubbable (but watch what you scrub with -- alkali dissolves aluminum). The semi-transparent plastic hood over the light bulbs is also cleanable, with difficulty.\n\nDescriptions of this hood tend to make much of the fan switch's \"memory\" -- don't be fooled into thinking this iinvolves some electronic circuit board that would no doubt soon succumb to grease and heat -- as far as I can tell, it's a simple mechanical rheostat-type switch just like the one on the old hood. When you turn the blower off with the on-off switch, it doesn't involve the low-to-high speed switch at all so naturally the blower turns on at the speed the low-high part is set at.\n\nSimilarly, the \"lo\" and \"hi\" setting on the light switch just means that you can turn on one or both bulbs. With the new types of bulbs, you can put in a very small bulb on the low side and a quite bright bulb in the other socket, and have a night light in your kitchen as well as good lighting over the range top.\n\nThe only thing that made me replace this hood was that the light switch broke, and I'm pretty sure that was because the Roof Rats that live in our big old walnut trees pushed the cap off the ducting and chewed on it. It was, shall we say, quite obvious that they'd been visiting. Not likely to be a problem for most users.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3582, "id": 270400, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 487, "len_tokens": 569, "text": "I rarely post a review, but have come to learn that the negative ones can be the most important ones and I sure wished I'd trusted them.  Nobody, including myself, complains when something is working good.  But it's when a product breaks down that you find out just how good the manufacturer is.\n\nI am out of warranty, and I received the freezer as a gift for a brand new bar I had built in my home.  I understand things don't last forever, however, you would hope it would be more than a year and a half to two years.  Maybe this unit should be advertised as May work great for a long time, or may not make it much past the warranty! Buyer beware!!  Bet their sales would go way down..  So, upon contacting Whynter, they were more than polite both on the phone, as well as in their emails.  After giving me a list of possible problems, I responded that none of them applied and that my freezer was cold, but not freezing.  After several more emails back and forth, I truly believe they did not read them, or didn't care, as when I finally responded:  \"Since you:  take all feedback seriously and  all positive and negative feedback is reviewed by Senior Management, let them know that I agree with the other reviewers that said  Whynter customer service was polite but completely useless and there are other manufacturers that truly care about their customers. \"  Their response was:  Thank you for your reply. We apologize that the unit is not freezing and appreciate the feedback. We would be happy to begin troubleshooting with you despite the unit being out of warranty.\"  They went on to give me some of the same instructions that I had already told them didn't work!\n\nNo matter how negative my feedback was to them about my freezer quitting working after being in the exact same location and untouched, they would just reply with the same things to check that I had checked and told them two emails ago.  Even after telling them: \"you can close out my ticket, as I just ordered another freezer so I would have it in time for the super bowl this Sunday.  I would be really upset if I waited another day or two emailing back and forth and not have a freezer for the game.\" They again replied thanking me and telling me to troubleshoot the same issues!\n\nI really wish I'd paid more attention to the other one and two star reviews on Amazon.  I really hope I can help someone that is looking for a freezer and point them away from this terrible product.  Why can't a company just say they're sorry and do the right thing??  After all, if their product is as good as they say it is, replacing a bad one such as mine should be a rare occurrence......", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3583, "id": 452044, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 462, "len_tokens": 546, "text": "Not a bad stove at all for the budget conscious.  My last stove lit midway between medium and high heat and forgetful folks would burn food way too often because one's natural tendency is to turn a knob to the right to turn an appliance such as a stove, on, then go ABOVE that point to stop the starter ticking sound.  Doing this however meant leaving it on HIGH.  You had to remember to rotate to the left after each lighting.  With this Premier the LITE position on the knob is the extreme most right so you have a tug to remind you to come back left to turn the flame to lower levels.  You also don't have to be bothered with hearing the tick tick tick tick tick of the starter every time you want to up the flame as HIGH is not past LITE but before it.\n\nI like it.\n\nNo bells  No whistles  just let's people feed themselves.  Now if only those nice nonstick porcelain burner liners came in white!\n\n  Produces more heat than others in its price range. Available for $331 and up. Oven racks are lovely heavier weight steel which glide smoothly.\n\nCareful of the double hinge double spring tensions doors. It will snap shut and hurt fingers so beware. Some complain about cleaning porcelain ranges of this type well do I have help for you. Use FORMULA 420. Non toxic. No sickening perfume. Gentle on hands and WORKS. Shake well. Squeeze on the pretty sea blue gritty liquid and leave to set while you do your nails or place dishes in dishwasher and with a cloth, non scratch tuffy kind of pad or even BRILLO (if burnt on is that bad) everything comes off easily. I bought Formula 420 for Pyrex and just had it sitting here. It didn't do diddly for burnt up Pyrex but does wonders on a stove top and you can't hide a thing with a white range.\n\nNice graphics by each knob tell you which are FRONT BACK and believe you me that matters since manufacturers are not standardizing on placement, you can get quite the arm burn if you came from a stove where the leftmost knob is for the front. You arm is OVER the front burner as you reach to put a pot on the back as you turn the second left most knob and WHOOSH, it is *that* knob that is for the FRONT and you've lit a big fire under your arm! So PAY ATTENTION TO THAT GRAPHIC until you have placement memorized (to care for elderly or children REMOVE THE KNOBS that operate the front burners altogether).\n\nI'll add photos of this range front graphic soon. Don't know why sellers have no close ups.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3584, "id": 487653, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 508, "len_tokens": 580, "text": "We bought this fridge primarily because we wanted a lot of ice and this had a good ice generation rating. BUT\n\nThe ice dispenser continuously dropped cubes on the floor and we had a number of slipping incidents. I ended up putting a small rug by the fridge to catch the ice and prevent slips to fix that. Minor problem. But ...\n\n Within a week or two of installing the fridge, the ice dispenser jammed up. I took a look and discovered a block of ice had formed, from the dispenser chute into the removable ice bucket inside the door. I could not remove the bucket to get at the blockage because it was \"glued\" to the door with ice.\n\nI ended up having to defrost the freezer to get the ice out. Within two weeks of doing this the same thing happened. For several months I developed a weekly routine of using a blow dryer to get the ice bucket out, dumping out all the ice in the bucket to melt out the block of ice at the bottom of the bucket, clearing the jam out of the chute, drying everything off and reinstalling. Takes about an hour each time.\n\nI had assumed there was some sort of installation mistake. Turns out not. It is a known design flaw.\n\nI finally called a Maytag repairman after a shelf broke in the refrigerator ( which appear to be cheaply made) and decided to have both taken care of while under warranty. The repairman explained this is a known design flaw and that what I had been doing weekly is considered the \"routine maintenance\" to take care of the problem. It's due to moisture and water building up in the chute each time you dispense ice. They recommend doing it every two weeks, although in our case we must be \"heavy\" ice users because we need to do it weekly. He said done properly you can do it in 20 minutes or so rather than the hour I've been taking.\n\nHowever, he spend well over 20 minutes trying to remove the ice bucket and gave up. So I think his 20 minute estimate is optimistic.\n\nHe pointed out that they note this procedure in the owners manual. I pointed out you don't see this until after your purchase the fridge and I certainly wouldn't have purchased a fridge requiring this level of \"routine maintenance.\"\n\nAdditionally, a plastic part had broken off in the dispenser apparently unrelated to this problem, according to the repairman, that requires replacement of the door. This is under warranty currently but is going to be an expensive problem if it recurs out of warranty.\n\nI called Maytag directly and they confirmed that it is a known design flaw and the solution is the \"routine maintenance\" I am already doing. They said they are no fixes nor are they correcting the problem by offering a replacement ice maker.\n\nSo if you consider spending an hour a week on an ice maker \"routine maintenance\", Maytag is your company.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3585, "id": 38878, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 474, "len_tokens": 571, "text": "Ordered this unit because it was the absolute cheapest kegorator I could find. It arrived three business days later (free standard shipping!). When the unit arrived it had two small dents on each side of the fridge. These are purely cosmetic annoyances and I have accepted that due to the low cost of the item. I waited the appropriate 8+ hours to plug it in per the instruction manual, and put the setting to the medium position just to be safe. The unit turned on and cooled within an hour. Turned the knob to max and everything is working as advertised.\n\n**IMPORTANT**\n\nThe included manual is not very good. It doesn't include anything about installing the rubber washer required to securely attach the tower to the fridge. This washer came attached to the \"beer tower hole plug\" and can easily be overlooked as part of this assembly which is not needed. Luckily I read many reviews that mentioned the necessity of this washer. Like other reviewers have stated, you will know that something is not right because the tower installs easily and is wobbly. Installation of the tower with this washer is semi difficult. All I did was take a wet paper towel and dampen the washer. This allowed it to slide into place a bit easier.\n\nThe unit is not as loud as others have suggested, and does not run continuously.\n\nThe unit does not generate as much heat as others have suggested.\n\nWith proper assembly (following instructions) my kegorator looks exactly like the one pictured. Some have said the tower was offset at an angle, mine assembled correctly. I did not install the casters due to other reviewers mentioning the inability of them to support the full weight of a keg and the fridge.\n\nThe guard rail is solid metal. I have no idea how this would easily break as some have suggested.\n\nBOTTOM LINE: This kegorator is a mini fridge that the company refitted with a new door and drilled a hole in the top to allow the tower to be mounted. If you want a professional keg cooler, or a larger kegorator you should go buy or build one, but be prepared to spend much more. You get what you pay for.\n\n**UPDATE**\n\nThings to consider before buying: Know your keg coupler types, I didn't before this keg arrived and had to purchase a different one. Keg couplers are different for many types of beers. The included keg coupler is mainly for U.S. types of beer, that's fine unless you want a European beer. Keg couplers are not cheap, around 60 bucks a piece.\n\nThe cooler chills to about 40 degrees F. This is fine for my needs\n\n**UPDATE** 9/29/13\n\nBeen through multiple kegs with this product and I am still impressed and it is still running like new.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3586, "id": 218337, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 452, "len_tokens": 539, "text": "This is rewrite of my original review. I originally rated the spin dryer 1-star because I couldn't get it to spin, and the company's customer service is absolutely dreadful.\n\nIn googling the company, I happened upon their Better Business Bureau (BBB) page. BBB gives the company a rating of \"F\" (Fail) due to multiple complaints, mostly about poor customer service. I, too, have experienced their terrible customer service, but - ironically - I also found the solution to my spin dryer problem in a company response to a complaint on the BBB page.\n\nThere is a metal bar screwed into the bottom of the spin dryer. It's not documented anywhere (not in the manual, or on the product page on their Web site), but it's a motor lock, and you have to unscrew and remove it or the spin dryer won't work. I'm just glad I didn't try it too many times with the motor lock on - that likely would have damaged it.\n\nThis is a company with good products, and just about the worst customer service and product documentation I've ever experienced (especially from a company with good products). They are very hard to get hold of. They do not always answer their phone during their stated business hours, and they do not answer email. When you are able to reach them by phone, the person answering speaks such poor English it's almost impossible to communicate. It's a 3-person company: the owner (who the woman answering phones never lets you speak to - \"he's too busy\"), the warehouse manager (who sent me incorrect tracking numbers for both items I ordered), and the woman answering the phone, who has a very heavy Asian accent, and does not speak or understand fluent English.\n\nTheir bad customer service wouldn't be such a liability if their documentation weren't so dangerously insufficient. I can't fathom how they could print a manual for this spin dryer without the instruction to remove the motor lock on the bottom. I saw the metal bar on the bottom, but I had no idea what it was, or that I should remove it. Their Wonder Wash machine (very cleverly designed) also has insufficient documentation. The assembly instructions are incomplete. I was able to figure it out, but some people can't (see the reviews for that product).\n\nAll that said, the spin dryer does work very well, and I'm glad I have it. But it was a stressful few hours until I figured out why it wouldn't spin (with no help from the company). Some people on the BBB site say the company honors their warranties, some say they don't. I'm glad I didn't have to test that.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3587, "id": 196210, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 412, "len_tokens": 510, "text": "I installed one of these a month ago for my Girlfirend's daughter and everything is working fine now.  I'm  writing this to explain a few negative things mintioned in a prevsious reviews and to explain a problem and how we corrected it.  First, the .80 gallons used, is only reffering to the amount of water the unit keeps stored in the bottom of the unit at all times to keep the pump primed and the seals from drying out. Obviously a dishwasther uses more than  this when actively running through a wash cycle.  Second, we also noticed the pump making an odd sound, (we also have an extra long drain hose on ours) but after a little observation, we found that is was simply the pump  vibrating against the floor while it was pumping. Sure it's an issue that should be addressed by GE with regard to the mounting location and method of the pump, but we quickly resolved the issue by placing a small foam pad between the pump and the floor....\"issue fixed\".  We also experienced water leaking from the unit when we first tested it.  After making sure it was level three times, and with three sets of eyes watching for the source of the drip and some nimble fingers  feeling for signs of water while the unit was running, we determined the water was coming from inside the door (not the seals between the door and i the main unit). We disassembled the door and found that the water was coming through  the openning where the soap dispenser comes through inside wall of the door.  Appearently the o-ring seal isn't enough to withstand the typhoon inside. So we used some clear silacon on both sides of the soap despenser unit and sandwhiched it all back together... let it dry an hour and that was the last of the water leakage.  Everything has worked great since then.  Everyone loves how well it cleans and HOW QUEIT it is.... so much that my girlfriend is now wanting to replace her existing dishwasher with this model.  I agee that any unit you buy new shouldn't have any issues and that's why I'm only giving this unit 4 stars.  But considering how things are manufactured now, I'm surpised  there aren't more problems in all products we buy.  So when ranking this unit on it's preformance, I'd give it 5 stars (It's very quiet) but on it's construction, I'd give it 3 stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3588, "id": 497562, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 458, "len_tokens": 529, "text": "We bought this pair because of the reviews and I want to make sure I am fair on my review of the product and not just the horrable service I got from the seller and LG.\n\nThe set arrived and I installed per instructions and all looked good.  Turned on the dryer and a horrible grinding / squealing noise came on right away and the dryer stopped.  I read the manual as well as everything I could find on the LG web site with no luck.  I contacted the seller and got no reply.  I contacted LG 800 number and after about 20 min of time wasting I got her to let me start the dryer so she could hear the noise.  She seemed fixated on there being an issue with my power supply.  You could tell the call center was outside the US because of the questions she was asking about ohms.  I assured her many times that it was a mechanical grinding sound and they the power in my newer home was quite ok but she still wouldn't believe me.  I didn't care as long as she got a repair person out here to fix the issue.  This was a Wednesday and she said someone would be out Friday, not good but ok.  Friday came and I got a call saying it would be Monday.  Monday came and it was moved again.  This was when I tried to get amazon to return the set and I would just pay the extra $50 and pick them up at Sears a few miles away.  But I was ignored by the seller and Amazon.  It took 4 last minute canceled appointments and 2 weeks to get a repairman out and only a few minutes for him to find the clip that was never installed at the factory that held the motor in.  It was fixed and I am happy with the washer and dryer.  They are great and would recommend to anybody.\n\nBut, I will never buy a major appliance online from this seller or Amazon again.  They sell, get the cash and you are stuck dealing with offshore call centers and 3rd party repair centers that couldn't care less.  I was totally powerless to get anybody to call me back, give me a real repair date, take these back or do anything.  I took 3 different days off work because I had to be home for the repair person that never came.  I still have an open return order the was just ignored by Amazon and the seller.  Don't buy from this seller and don't buy this product online.  Go to a real store and pay a little extra so you have a real person to talk to.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3589, "id": 128659, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 466, "len_tokens": 564, "text": "I bought this product to combat the constant dishes my roommates seem to pile up.  It's great for moderately dirty dishes, and even powers off some caked on things (Pots and Pans Mode).  It's pretty quiet for the most part, and uses way less water than I imagined it would.  It's easy to connect (although I would recommend getting plumber's tape for the screw on connections).  Plumber's tape by the way is usually very cheap, and is good the best way to keep your parts removable, and also sealed.\nThe dishwasher is meant to be kept on the counter, which has some drawbacks.  My cupboards are too low, so I ended up getting a cart for it, which makes it easier to move around, and I can store stuff under it now.  The downside to this is that it's not level with the sink, and when you're done with it and disconnect it, you need to put a bucket at the end of the hose, and use gravity to get the rest of the water out of the drain, or you'll have a spill everywhere.  This is not so much a flaw of the machine, as it is meant to be stationary on a counter.\nTips:\nAlways clean the filter.  On the inside, there is a filter that you turn to take out.  All you really have to do is shake the food particles out of it, and rinse it in the sink.\nDon't use anything but a soft cloth to clean the inside.  This also means that you shouldn't use bleach or anything harsh.  If you're trying to remove an odor, vinegar helps a little, but just running a light load while the machine is empty (you can sanitize glass items if you're concerned about wasting a little water), and that will clean it.\nIf you're going to be moving it around at all on a cart or something, get plumbers tape for the threaded fittings.  This will be a life saver, as moving the hoses could cause them to come a little loose, and that would be a mess (I know from experience).\nAnd finally,  don't overfill it.  I know it's tempting to try and cram everything you can in it, but that makes it so the water can't get to the dishes, and then they won't get clean.  The spinning wash head on the bottom needs to be able to spray up onto the dishes, so making sure the dirty parts are facing down is a must.  Big plates can be stacked from the back on the left hand side.  They tend to lean forward, and I believe that's the way it was designed.  Pots and pans do fit, and but taking out the flatware rack can help with this.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3590, "id": 187411, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 461, "len_tokens": 550, "text": "I purchased two Fisher Paykel dishwasher drawers in 2005. Mine has been completely trouble free from day of installation. I've never had to call for a repair or maintenance. I understand others have had problems, but wanted to give the other side. I do not have the model pictured here with one tub being extra tall. Rather mine are two drawers of the same size, one above the other. My kitchen design didn't allow for the option of both drawers being in the top position, one on either side of the sink, but I think that's a great option since you never have to bend over to load or unload. I'm single, so it's a more practical and environmentally sound to have the smaller, individual tubs, rather than a standard, full-size dishwasher. I fill one up every couple of days or so. It runs quietly, as do most modern dishwashers. Not as virtually silent as some I've heard, but still makes very little noise. I've had no problems with its cleaning ability. A friend with the same model keeps complaining, but every time we talk about it, she admits to using detergent that is specifically NOT recommended by the manual and doesn't use a rinse agent. I use good quality powder detergent and keep the rinse agent dispenser filled (it lasts a long time) and my dishes and glasses come out sparkling clean and spot free. I had to start adding LemiShine a year or two ago, after all detergents had to be reformulated to be phosphate free, by law.  I was getting hard water deposits and a film. I blamed the dishwasher, but when I called the local dealer for a repair call they told me about the change in detergent formulas mandated by law and said many people thought their dishwashers had stopped working well. They recommended the LemiShine additive and my dishes and glassware are back to be sparkling clean. It completely eliminated any hard water film inside the dishwasher, too. I can easily fit my rather large dinner plates, so those complaining about that must have unusually large plates. No, I can't fit oversized platters nor large cutting boards. I'm happy to wash those by hand. One minor complaint is the filter that must be occasionally removed and cleaned. No big deal and I tend to rinse before loading, so mine rarely needs cleaned. If you are used to NOT rinsing before loading, you'll have to clean it regularly. For me, the compromises were well worth it. I can run a small load every couple of days and not feel like I'm wasting water and energy, like I would with a full-size dishwasher run half full.\n\nI've been thrilled with my dishwasher drawers for 8 years now!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3591, "id": 257051, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 387, "len_tokens": 560, "text": "I am online today to buy some spare replacement filters for my GE fridge.  I saw this product as an alternative, and had to speak up before other folks get fooled into purchasing these things.  I bought this EcoAqua at an outlet store and am sorely disappointed.  Now that I have done my research on the NSF (standards testing) web site, I am removing this thing immediately.  The EcoAqua is made in Qingdao, China by \"HongKong Ecoaqua Co., Limited,\" which is in the economic development zone in Jimo, Qingdao, China.  The EcoAqua is a cheap knock-off that is compatible with your GE fridge ONLY in the mechanical sense - It will fit into the fridge, but it's nowhere near as good as the OEM model from GE.  And this is not only my opinion, it's based on the scientific tests by NSF for ANSI compliance ([...]).  NSF does water filter testing against the \"NSF/ANSI 42, 44, 53, 55, 58, 62, 177, NSF P231, CSA B483.1, INMETRO ABNT/NBR 14908, WaterMark\" standards.  They are like Underwriter's Laboratory, but for lots of items with a Public Health and Safety impacts.\n\nHere's what you get from the EcoAqua product in terms of NSF/ANSI Testing:\n\nNOTHING other than \"Conforms to the material and structural integrity requirements only.\"\n\nHere's what you get from the GE OEM filter in terms of NSF/ANSI Testing:\n\n2,4-D Reduction\nAsbestos Reduction\nAtrazine Reduction\nBenzene Reduction\nCarbofuran Reduction\nCyst Reduction\nEndrin Reduction\nLead Reduction\nLindane Reduction\nMercury Reduction\nP-Dichlorobenzene Reduction\nToxaphene Reduction\nTetrachloroethylene Reduction\n\nThe GE OEM filter carries the NSF certified seal.  The EcoAqua filter DOES NOT, and for good reason.  It does nothing but filter the water through some cheap charcoal, helping to remove the chlorine smell/taste.  It doesn't remove any of the undesirable materials (listed above) that might very well be in your drinking water supply.\n\nThe GE OEM also lasts longer based on my experience, but note that \" Claims of capacity or rated service cycle are not applicable for mechanical filtration,\" per the NSF site.\n\nIf you want to do your own research, by all means head over to [...] and do your own search.  You'll see it's exactly what I listed above.\n\nSure, it's cheaper - but it's basically junk and I'll never be buying any EcoAqua product again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3592, "id": 243660, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 409, "len_tokens": 500, "text": "I bought my freeline skates 3 years ago.  I saw my friend using them and I went straight home and ordered them.  Everyone says they are hardish to learn, and I think thats totally true.  I have taught well over 20 people how to freeline and I always compare it to learning how to ride a bike.  We all have learned how to ride a bike and it takes some time.  But with someone teaching you I have seen some of my friends get it in less then 3 hours to the point where they can propel themselves up hills.  BUT!  on average the people I have taught usually take 6 hours.  (Less time then it took me to learn how to ride a bike!)  I always remark on how great my friends are doing when I teach them and I am very encouraging and optimistic.\n  A trick that I figured out to help people learn after they have spent a couple hours on the skates is for me to ride my bike and for my friends to be holding onto my side and going along side me on the freeline skates.  Then they can slowly start to practice the foot turning motion/movement that will eventually allow them to propel themselves forward,  I tell them \"point your toes toward eachother, point your toes away from eachother, and repeat.\n  Currently I have 3 pairs of freeline skates, 2 OG and one other pair who's wheels have lights and flash at night.  I only recommend these two and I have seen other types which frankly, suck.\n  I have gone everywhere on my skates!  I went to China and traveled around daily with them.  I even went on the Great Wall of China with them! You can invent so many new sports with them including Freeline Street Hocky, Freeline street Soccer, Tag, anything!  I have a group of friends now who all freeline and we have so much fun doing it together.\n  My favorite part of freeline skates is being stopped by people I am skating by who are completely mind blown and want to know \"what the heck those things under my feet are!\"  And then I eventually get them and their kids trying them out, having tons of fun, and even inspiring them to get their own.  Maybe these will be the next rip-stick and be super popular, who knows?  All I can say, is I LOVE freeline skating.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3593, "id": 52533, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 460, "len_tokens": 522, "text": "I have owned this oven for about 2 years now and I really wish I purchased another. It does have it good points, but I find myself more frustrated with it as time goes on.\nThey put two large burners in the front and two small in the back. Well, when I have two large pots going on the front it's almost impossible to reach over them and use the two smaller burners in the back. Mine is connected to propane so I don't know if that makes a difference, but the flame adjustment is just terrible...they all seem to want to burn on high...even when I turn the knobs to the lowest settings it's still to high, and yet the center burner never seems to go to that high setting? The front right is a simmer burner, but when I lower it to simmer I get a black buildup of soot and it start to give off a propane smell so I can never seem to use it for simmering anything. The front left burner does do a great job of boiling water very fast though. If the oven is on the vent fan will start blowing on the two burner on the right side and has blown them out on occasion, only the smell of gas alerted me to this. The blowing flame makes simmering anything impossible....even if I could simmer!\nI recently noticed my knobs are all wrinkled and crumbly underneath..never noticed it before, but the knobs do get hot when the oven is on. I have read other reviews about people having them melt, so my problem is probably also from the heat. I have just contacted GE about this so I'll let you know if their customer service will stand behind their product or not. The knobs are really cheap for the high price of this stove.\nI used to convection oven maybe 8 times and have since given up. It takes TWICE as long for anything to cook when I try and use it. I really wish they made an oven without the convection...I really didn't want it in the first place and had to pay hundreds extra for it because this was not an option.\nI do love the look of this oven, the stove top grates are nice and thick and I wanted the five burners, but I do not feel this oven lives up to the cost or high quality standards.\n\nUpdate: Customer service did respond quickly to my complaint about the melting knobs. They sent me out replacements and instead of plastic they are now using stainless steel as the standard, so I assume this was a frequent problem. The skirt that goes behind the knobs is still plastic though.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3594, "id": 496068, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 456, "len_tokens": 578, "text": "I purchased this refrigerator at Best Buy for $999.00.  Did my homework online, went to 3 major stores. Was looking at 3 different refrigerators . I saw this at Best Buy on sale for $1,100.00.  I went to a huge chain store that was similar to Best Buy, but twice as big. I hated the store, but they had the refrigerator for $999.00.  Back to Best Buy to see if they would match price & they did. It was also delivered 2 days earlier than other store could. My refrigerator died while I was away & my husband didn't have the sense to take the food to the refrigerator & chest freezer in our basement, so I lost quite a bit of food.  I have had the refrigerator for 5 days. I find it to be very quiet, it has quite a bit of space & extra features. The lights are fantastic!  I hate the gray sides, but I knew that when I bought it. All of the plastic inside is extremely cheap(the refrigerators costing $500.00 more were the same way), the plastic that holds items in, on the shelves on the door comes out along with the item I am removing, if it is a larger item. My biggest complaint is how slow the icemaker is.  If you have it on regular mode, it produces 4 or 5 ice cubes in a 90 minute period(that is according to the manual).  If you set it on quick ice, it's not much better.  The quick ice automatically shuts off in 12 hrs.  At 5:00 on Tuesday 6/24 I set the icemaker on quick ice, when it would auto. shut off, I would set it back on quick ice again, within an hour or 2.  Fri. night, the 27th, I finally had an almost full bin of ice. I threw it out, as you are supposed to do, but being the way I am, I want to make a 2nd bin & throw it away too, before using the ice.  Since Fri. night it has been set on quick ice continuously & I have less than a 1/4 of a bin of ice. The water works fine, so there is nothing wrong with the water lines.  I just can't believe how slow the icemaker is!  I have had some trouble adjusting the refrig. & freezer temps., but I have only had the refrig. for 5 days & I think that I just have to work with the temps. until they are right.  You can't tell a lot in 5 days, but overall, I think it's a pretty nice refrigerator, with many nice features!  For the price, I don't think that you can beat it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3595, "id": 149275, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 473, "len_tokens": 570, "text": "Attention readers who want a filter that delivers pure, clean, uncontaminated water... Straight from the box: \"This filter is not intended to purify water.\"\n\nWith no filter in place, the water dispenser on your refrigerator can't operate because there's a big gap between the incoming water line and the water dispenser on your fridge door. This will solve that problem. It bridges the gap between the water line coming into your fridge and the water dispenser on your fridge door. That's all I can say for it though. As a filter, it's worthless - at least the manufacturer admits that in the label warning quoted above, straight from the box the filter comes in!\n\nYay, this filter is labeled as a \"Green\" product. Ecologically friendly plastic, huh? Who's zooming who, folks? I'd rather just hug a tree than drink industrially polluted water, and that's what flouridated water is. There is no process of burning to create carbon for use in this filter. But the trade-off is that while we prevent a small amount of pollution from the process of burning to create carbon for these filters, we are allowing our bodies to be polluted to a greater extent when we use them instead of carbon based filters. That trade-off isn't worth it to me.\n\nThe manufacturer claims that these filters \"reduce\" levels of chlorine taste and odor, cysts, and several other chemicals, but states proudly that it leaves a \"healthy level of flouride\" in your water. Regardless of which side of the flouridation debate you find yourself on, you can not deny that it is a means of mass medication, even according to the arguments made by those who support flouridation, and in many many cases, it is without consent of the consumer (ie yours truly). If I'm going to be medicated, I want it to be by a licensed dentist or physician, not by my city's water department. Additionally, it is medication without any means of controlling the dosage each person gets. The more water you drink, the higher your daily dose of flouride. Amazon won't allow a link here, so please do a search and educate yourself about the dangers of and true motives for municipal water flouridation.\n\nUpdate: IT LEAKS!\n\nI put this filter into my fridge a little over an hour ago, just went in to grab a snack now, and guess what? My fridge is flooded, and the water is rapidly dripping out of the filter housing. I read reviews of other model numbers of this same brand, and my leak isn't a unique experience. The only thing green about this filter is the green the manufacturer is taking out of your pocket for an absolutely worthless piece of junk. Please read the rest of the review as well! - end edit -\n\nPeace to all reading.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3596, "id": 62631, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 439, "len_tokens": 555, "text": "I don't understand why people haven't been really advertising one of the largest benefits of the induction stovetop - there is an AMAZING difference in the amount of heat produced in the kitchen!!!  I live in Houston and my husband cooks a lot.  He is very hot-natured.  What a difference this induction stovetop makes!  Electric and gas both cause so much extra heat in the kitchen that I have to believe that the induction stove will pay for itself by not heating up the kitchen.  I cannot stress enough the difference we feel.  My mother has a gas stove and her kitchen gets very uncomfortable in the summer when cooking.  We used to have electric and it caused a lot of heat as well.  We can cook for hours on the induction stovetop and it does not heat up the kitchen.\n\nIn addition to that, we simply love the way it cooks.  When you raise or lower the setting the change is instant.  It makes it so much easier to control the cooking.  We didn't have any problems adjust to the stove.  We were pretty nervous about doing something so different, and we simply regret not having done it a lot sooner.  Even though our Magnalite pots don't work on the stove, it was not a big deal to us.  The inexpensive, ferrous pots that we bought at Kohl's to replace them work beautifully.  Definitely no regrets.  Everybody in the south should own one of these - especially if you cook a lot.\n\nUpdate one year later - We love this stove even more than when I wrote the initial review.  Some important notes -\n** If you're worried about scratching it, put a papertowel or thin dishtowel under your pot when you cook.  We do this when we use our cast iron pots.  I know it sounds weird - but remember it's the pot that heats up - not the stovetop.  It truly works, and keeps your stovetop looking brand new.\n** Works great if you work with melted chocolate. You don't need a double boiler because the lowest setting is mild enough to keep it melted.\n**  Cleanup is a breeze because nothing gets cooked onto the stovetop, since the stovetop isn't getting so hot.\n\nUpdate 05/03/2014 - Still no problems with this stove.  Still looks great.  So easy to clean as food does not cook on to it.  Still using cheap stainless pots we bought at Kohl's and still loving them.  We're so glad we weren't able to do a gas line, as that would have been miserable for the heat and cleaning compared to this.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3597, "id": 471172, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 440, "len_tokens": 521, "text": "Fantastic little dishwasher! Was skeptical about buying it, but I am glad I decided to. It is slightly larger than a big microwave, yet still fits on the counter, underneath the upper cupboards with room to spare. Fits a couple days worth of dishes, and really saves on hassle and water.\n\nComes with an adapter that screws onto your faucet in place of the regular one that's already on your faucet. Don't be intimidated. If you can plug in a lamp, and use a pair of pliers, you can install this. You simply screw on the included hoses on the unit, then put them on the adapter that clips onto the faucet. That part is a quick connect that pulls off in an instant when you want it to. There are two hoses, a hot water in, and a drain.\n\nI, personally didn't like that setup and hard-plumbed the water inlet with some PEX tubing, and a \"T\" under the sink to keep free use of the faucet when using the dishwasher. Pipe threading on the unit is non-standard. A 3/4 NPT plastic fitting with a rubber washer seals well enough for the inlet, then I just used the factory drain hose and zip tied it into the sink to drain. Works great for us.\n\nWe've had it for a couple of months now and we love it! Makes doing the dishes feel much less like a chore and helps us to stay on top of the work load. It isn't much use on pots and pans, baking sheets, or cutting boards, due to it's size, but that's why I plumbed it the way I did. We can run the dishwasher and wash the rest in the sink at the same time.\n\nYou may have to space the dishes out a little more sparsely than they unit claims in order to get a good clean. We use a cheap, name brand, powder detergent with great success. Keep in mind that it is dispensed from a little door that flaps open, and therefore you need to be aware of keeping it from being obstructed when loading it.\n\nAppearance-wise, it is a rather sleek looking unit for what it is, and didn't take long for us to get used to it being on the counter top. The loss of space is a bummer, but it's usefulness certainly makes up for it.\n\nIn the end, I would highly recommend this unit. It is something that can be taken with you and hooked up wherever you live. Fantastic for those of us who are still renting, but want the conveniences of a nice home.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3598, "id": 508070, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 386, "len_tokens": 504, "text": "Love the cooktop as well as the range!  I've owned this range for 12 months now & don't have a single complaint.  Prior to this range I did a lot of research on induction cooktops b/c I don't know anyone who has one.  I purchased a model from Whirlpool and had nothing but endless problems with the oven.  After 7 repairs & A LOT OF HASSLE the Whirlpool was declared a lemon and the store allowed me to put my money toward another range.  (I did not purchase either from Amazon.)  I did a great amount of research this time and purchased this GE  model.  I love the cooktop 100%.  I also love the oven 100%.  The Whirlpool oven had a LOUD fan that continued to run up to 45 minutes after I turned the oven off.  This wasn't even part of the defect.  The salesman & repairman both said this was part of the design.  The Whirlpool range controls were at the front of the burners (near my belly).  The oven fan needed to run to keep the stove controls from overheating.  I like the design of the GE b/c the control are all at the back.  The GE fan runs quietly during convection & turns off when I turn off the oven.  The fan does continue to run if the oven is very hot.  It seems to kick off when it reaches about 350 degrees, which doesn't take very long and isn't annoying.  I wondered if I would like the cooktop controls on the GE.  They are digital and +/- in 1/2 increments.  I do like them.  When I turn on a burner, it starts at 5 (which is in the middle).  I usually leave it on 5, or I can easily turn it up or down quickly.  Overall, I don't have a single complaint about this range, which I don't take for granted after my previous problems.  I love how clean the cooktop stays with induction.  No burned on mess when something boils over.  It hasn't scratched or received any damage.  I bought nice quality waterless induction cookware for around $300.  I also use the convection mode in the oven most of the time. I am a 42 year-old housewife with 5 children.  I do a lot of cooking & baking.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3599, "id": 87599, "interval": [500, 600], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 589, "text": "Great product but they need to include more rods in the kit. I had to buy a second set of rods and that still wasn't enough so Ill end up spending $60+ dollars on this kit which isn't terrible if you factor what you would get charged out in town, but still, its plastic rods with a brush attached....thats overpriced for something so simple.\n\nSo enough of me complaining about it being overpriced and get to the review. It works GREAT if you aren't an idiot and use common sense when using it.\n\n1.  Always CLOCKWISE..... again always CLOCKWISE, I cant be anymore clear about this.\n2.  Use electrical tape or duct tape as a backup in case you screw up on number 1 above. Its a good safety measure so just do it, it only takes a few seconds per rod to wrap in tape.\n3.  Feed one rod at a time, taping each one as you go.\n4.  Dont force the rods if you get resistance with the drill attached. If you get resistance, remove the drill from the rod and using your hands wiggle/shift the rods until you get past the resistance and then reconnect the drill and continue. Most likely if you reach resistance is likely one of two things. (1) You have a large bend in your duct or (2) you have a lot of blockage. If its number 2, start pulling the rod out (with or without the drill attached (if the drill remains attached, remember to always spin  CLOCKWISE) as youve probably hit a patch of lint clogged heavily in one area. Pulling the rod out will likely pull a large portion of lint youve broken loose out with the rod and brush  attachment so vacuum it up or blow it out if you have a leaf blower and then start again (I didn't disconnect rods during this step but I did take my time to hand feed the rod and brush back in to ensure I didn't damage the rods).\n5.  Once youve reached the end of your vent, start pulling your rods out the same way you went in (CLOCKWISE) so that you catch any debris you might have missed on the initial cleaning.  I pushed the brush through 2-3 times in total from different sides of the vent since I was short a few rods and used the leaf blower 4-6 times in between to ensure I was pushing any lint to the exterior of the house (never blow the leaf blower into the house, only blow to the outside of the house unless you want a HUGE mess in your house.\n6.  Lastly, Id recommend using a face mask/respirator mask as this stuff is messy and you don't know whats growing in it. I had some cheap carpentry mask but will use a better version next time I clean it as its not fun to breath in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3600, "id": 3195, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 487, "len_tokens": 603, "text": "Overall, as far as the product goes, I have to say I'm quite happy with the beer dispenser. No problems with the temperature adjustment (but then, I'm not trying to keep my beer at 34 degrees), it pours nicely, the components seem to be high quality - aside from the plastic hose clamps for the CO2 line, but those were easy to replace with metal ones at the hardware store.\n\nHowever, I have to agree with the other reviewers, Haier's customer service is...challenging. My wife bought me the dispenser for Christmas (that's true love). She had it delivered to a neighbor's house so I wouldn't suspect anything. On December 26, I went to retrieve the box and set it up in my basement. Upon opening the unit, I discovered that a significant number of parts were missing - LIKE THE ENTIRE CO2 SYSTEM, TAP, AND KEG CONNECTION. Basically I had a $600 mini-fridge. You'd think someone in shipping might notice that the box was 25 pound light, but, whatever.\n\nI called Haier, and they were fairly helpful at first. They told me I should fax a list of the missing parts along with my proof of purchase, which I did. They then told me it would be a couple days to \"validate\" my claim, a couple days to process the order, and then two weeks for the parts to arrive. I called back every few days to see how things were going, and it was easy to get a real person on the phone each time, but these people weren't able to offer much information.\n\nApparently, Haier's parts warehouse is located on the dark side of the moon, because it was impossible for customer service to tell me when or how the parts would be shipping. No way to get a tracking number, no way to know if the parts were in stock, nothing. So, I waited patiently for three weeks. When the parts didn't show up, I called back and, surprise, they couldn't tell me what happened. I talked to a supervisor at Haier, and she told me the same thing. She started to resubmit the order, but several parts were now showing up as backordered on her screen, with no ETA available.\n\nAt this point, I was done with Haier. I called Amazon and explained my situation, and I said I wanted to get an exchange or a refund. At first, I was told to \"contact the manufacturer.\" When I explained that I'd been doing that for the past month with no luck, they agreed to exchange it, no problem. They also said I wasn't the only one this happened to. Within two days, a replacement was on its way, and I had a tracking number. Thank you, Amazon.\n\nSo, I didn't have tap beer for Christmas, or New Year's, or my birthday, but I've got it for the Super Bowl, and it's good.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3601, "id": 9139, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 578, "len_tokens": 669, "text": "I love this washer! It has made my laundry life so much easier! My husband, baby daughter, part time step-daughter, and I...along with 2 cats, make quite a bit of laundry. We recently moved into an apartment with a common laundry room after living with family where a full size washer and dryer were available. This laundry room is less than desirable - kinda dirty and only one working (small) washer and 2 half working dryers, all at $1.25 a load. Also a trek downstairs and did I say dirty??!! We live in a nice neighborhood and just the other day my neighbor was talking about how someone was messing with his laundry...so I am happy to avoid this as well. As soon as we moved in, I knew I really wanted a washer of my own. I lived in Japan for a year and had experience with similar small, portable washers there. I found this little Haier and new it was the right thing to buy. I was not wrong. Installation was a breeze, just a few screws on the bottom, pop in the casters and connect the hose adapter to the sink and you are ready to go. I was doing laundry within about 20 minutes of getting the thing in my door! I usually do a couple big loads (for this washer) every other day. Of course when we are busy, it may be more than a couple days before I get to laundry, but I find that with careful sorting of like fabrics, I am still able to get all our laundry done in about three loads. This washer is extremely efficient. I pre treat stains and spots with a concentrated solution of dissolved powder soap and water from an old spray bottle and just use very little dissolved powder soap (maybe 1/4 cup of a less concentrated water/soap mixture) and my laundry gets cleaner than it ever did in the old washer we used before. I sometimes have an unbalanced load, but only with a few specific items like bath mats, husband's jeans, and queen size sheet set. Now I just wash the top and bottom sheet without the pillow cases, and I do not have a problem. This little washer is a trooper...I am amazed by the things I can wash in it. It has handled the baby car seat covers, Baby Bjorn carrier, mattress pads. The only thing I will not attempt is maybe our queen size blankets, but twin size was not a problem.\nThis washer is quiet and never moves around. It really spins out a lot of water in the final spin as well. I hang dry our laundry on a five line dryer out on our balcony and even on cooler or humid days, my laundry usually gets dry. I am a little concerned about the winter, as we have only had the washer since the beginning of summer. Thinking about getting the matching Haier portable dryer to complement our line drying in the winter.\nAll my friends and family are so impressed by this little washer. I sometimes have to do a load just to show them how great it is. 3 months after our purchase, we are still very satisfied with our Haier and I would recommend it to anyone who needs a washer in a small space without hookups. We have clean laundry and still have a roll of quarters for a rainy day!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3602, "id": 9184, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 529, "len_tokens": 614, "text": "I downsized and moved from a house into a 500-square foot studio apartment in the city back in February. One of the sacrifices I had to make -- or so I thought -- was private indoor laundry at home.\n\nThis little Haier changed that for me.\n\nIt is the smartest $200 or so that I have spent in a long time.\n\nIt is so cute and small, it fits right into my walk-in closet next to the bathroom. Works like a charm, I just move the washer out of the closet and a couple of feet into the bathroom, snap the hose onto the bathroom faucet and put the drain hose into the tub. I can do a whole week's worth of laundry in a couple of hours.\n\nIt holds roughly 1/3 to 1/2 of what most people would consider a normal load of clothes. In one wash load, I can do maybe 4 or 5 pairs of pants, or a full set of queen sheets (fitted bottom and flat top sheet); two large bath towels and two face towels.... you get the picture.\n\nIt is too small to wash my comfortor so I just do that once a month in the building laundromat downstairs.\n\nI figure this machine has saved me at least $5/week in washing machine costs; probably more than that. So at this point the machine has already paid for itself.\n\nI've never had any leaking problems except once when I experimented and washed a blanket that was too large for the machine. There was a small puddle on the bathroom floor afterwards; no big deal.\n\nAs long as you don't overstuff it, you shouldn't have any leaking issues.\n\nIt's also important to me that this machine is nice and new and CLEAN... I don't have to wonder who used the machine before me or what they put in it.\n\nOn a lighter note, this washing machine has also turned out to be something of a conversation piece. Whenever I have guests over and they see the washer next to the bathroom, they always comment on how cute and convenient it is.\n\nI'm debating whether to get the Haier portable dryer; for now I use my shower curtain rod as a clothes line or I just do a bunch of loads of laundry, and take them downstairs to the laundromat dryer in one shot.\n\nBut it is so nice to have the option of doing all my laundry entirely in my apartment if I choose. Huge money saver and convenience. I highly recommend this machine.\n\nThe only (small) complaint I have about it is not really a complaint but more of a question. The drain hose and water line are very short. I wish they were a little longer so that I didn't have to move the washer into the bathroom (three feet away) to hook it up to the faucet.\n\nI'm thinking of going to Home Depot and seeing if I can finding extensions for the water hose and the drain hose that would be long enough to reach into the bathroom.\n\nIf anyone has had any luck with that, please let me know.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3603, "id": 9190, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 536, "len_tokens": 656, "text": "I've had the Haier HLP21E now for about five months, washing six to eight loads a week.  So far, so good.  I also bought the caster set that Haier sells, so I don't have to break my back lugging it back and forth to the sink every day.  The caster set is worth the money, but keep in mind that some of the stores are charging double what Haier charges.  The cost should be about $25.\n\nIt's not a quiet machine.  It's not horribly loud, but it's certainly not quiet. I think most people who claim it is are simply going into another room and turning up the TV.  If you have an apartment with tissue paper walls and fear the landlord might hear the noise, get a solid lie ready. This is actually quite fun. I find it very easy to hide this washer under a table cloth or even in my closet!\n\nThe inner wash tub is only about one cubic foot, so you will have to do about three loads for every single load you would for a standard size washer.\n\nThis brings me to an issue that is important for potential buyers.  Over the months, I've seen people making wild claims about the amount of clothes they can put in this washer.  Please be aware that some are full of beans.  You are NOT going to be able to stuff five pairs of adult denim jeans in this, or king-size sheets and pillow cases, or eight bath towels.  Either people are confusing this model with another larger Haier, or they are people who like to wear their own body soil repeatedly, or they are lying.  Use some common sense.  Firstly, there is not the physical room for the enormous amounts of clothes that are often being claimed.  Secondly, if you stuff the machine full to the top, the soil will not completely rinse out, but will merely redeposit over larger areas. This is disgusting. Out-of-sight should not be out-of-mind when doing laundry.\n\nYou should never fill any washer more than half to two-thirds full of dry clothes, so don't do it with this washer.\n\nBecause there is no agitating spindle in this washer, heavy pieces of clothes might move to one side of the tub as it empties of water, in preparation for a spin.  If it goes off-balance, a fuzzy-logic will kick in and the tub will stop and refill with water in an attempt to rebalance the clothes.  This can happen easily with bath towels.  I just pause the machine before it goes into a spin, and redistribute them.\n\nUse a good, HE detergent.  You only need about a teaspoon or two, depending on what you are washing.\n\nRemember that the bottom plate goes on the machine with the curvy side \"out\", facing the floor.\n\nCustomer Service at Haier USA is a joke.  They don't know what they are talking about, if pressed will admit to never having seen a Haier washer, and they are just plain stupid.  If you really have an issue with your machine, harrass the Customer Service morons until they forward you to Technical.  They will do this if you scream enough and make them cry.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3604, "id": 11433, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 494, "len_tokens": 609, "text": "It's a non-ducted hood, so it's only going to be so good since it can't vent outside.\n\nSize: I checked a bunch of range hoods out at a local store before settling on this one.  I was disappointed that even the higher-end models at three times the price didn't fully cover the entire oven like my old one did - it's the same case with this Broan model.  This one's lip is very short and only covers a bit more than half of the range, instead of the entire range (on a standard 30\" oven/range), which makes it pretty useless for capturing smoke & steam from the front burners.\n\nNoise: Yes, it's noisier than my old one (and somewhat flimsier, but it's not like I ever touch anything other than the fan & light switch on it, so whatever).  I can't tell if the fan really works because smokey stuff (on the back burner, which actually goes up into the capture area) still stinks up my kitchen.  The fan noise is fairly obnoxious too, it sounds like it's been installed for ages & is old instead of brand new, if you've ever heard a well-used fan before.\n\nFilter: After reading through the reviews, I did buy the five-dollar charcoal filter.  The stock one is a blue one and the one that Amazon suggests has what appears to be a black carbon filter on it.  I can't tell if it makes a difference between it still smokes out my kitchen because the lip only covers half the stove, and even the stuff that is filtered still blows smokey air into the room, so what good is it?  What a dumb design, to not fully cover a standard-size stove - I would have gotten the more expensive one with the dual filters & better lights, but that one covered the same area, was three times more expensive, and there aren't really any other good non-ducted options on the market that I could find easily in-store or on Amazon.\n\nMy lightbulb shorted out when I turned it on the third day in, so I don't know if that's a defective or just a random coincidence.  It was fairly easy to install, although the holes were different than my old one & I had to get a drill to punch holes where the wood lip was on my upper cabinets.  That was kind of lame.\n\nOverall, disappointed, but I more or less knew what I was getting into.  For the price, it is what it is.  It doesn't look horrible, at least, and it's slightly better than having nothing to funnel the air in at all, I guess.  It was super easy to install, aside from the some of the holes (in particular the front right) not lining up with my (standard-sized) cabinets.  I was hoping it was going to be better than it was based on the the high numbers of stars & reviews.  Oh well.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3605, "id": 12066, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 606, "len_tokens": 695, "text": "Quiet possibly the best purchase I have made for my apartment!\n\nAfter reading all the reviews I could find, some being negative, but most being positive, I decided to make the purchase. I'd have to agree with the positive reviewers after two months of using this machine.\n\nThe machine seems pretty solidly built. The quick release hose connection is simple to install and easy to use and tuck away when not in use.\n\nSome reviews have mentioned that you cannot use your sink while the dishwasher is in use. You can turn off the machine in mid cycle and use the sink for whatever you need and then put the hose back on and turn the machine back on. Simple!\n\nThe manual is pretty short and somewhat hard to figure things out. Here is some useful information I have learned so far.\n\n1. The machine has a pre-rinse cycle and 2 wash cycles. You only need to use the pre-rinse cycle for heavily soiled dishes, or if you have dirty dishes inside that you don't intend to wash for more than a day (I don't use this cycle). You should run the pre-rinse cycle if the soiled dishes will sit in the dishwasher for more than a day.  There are two places to add detergent, an indent in the door for the first cycle, and a closed compartment for the second wash cycle. If you are only going to wash glasses on a short cycle then just put detergent in the closed comparment. If you use both wash cycles then you should put a teaspoon of detergent in both places.\n\n2. There is no true drying cycle - as others have stated in thier reviews, crack the door open to let the steam out after the cycles have completed and the dishes will dry faster. Also Jet Dry helps to dry dishes faster and leave them spotless.\n\n3. Before connecting the quick release hose, run your tap water to get it hot. Use the sani-wash feature to get the water extra hot and to help dry the dishes faster.\n\n4. As with ANY dishwasher, don't think that you can just put filthy dishes with food remnants in there and expect it to get clean, take a second or two and wipe the food off the dishes or give them a quick rinse... you'll have cleaner dishes and you will extend the life of your dishwasher.\n\n5. Clean the metal filter regularly, just take it out and wipe it off. Again, you'll have cleaner dishes and you will extend the life of the washer.\n\n6. Use the recommended amount of detergent 1 tsp per wash cycle.\n\nYou don't need any more than that, too much detergent can shorten the life of the pump.\n\nThat's about all I can think of for now, I love this dishwasher it is well worth the money and probably saves me money in the long run doing dishes manually. This machine only uses about a gallon and a half of water, which is far much less than the amount I would use doing dishes manually. Also I have not noticed much of a change in my electric bill.\n\nMy lease states that I am not allowed to have a dishwasher (don't tell my landlord). However if the landlord ever needs to get in my apartment, I can easily store this in my closet.. although he may think it is a microwave anyway.\n\nIf this machine dies I will buy another.... This saves me 20 minutes a day of my time. I love it and it gets the dishes sparkling clean!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3606, "id": 13052, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 579, "len_tokens": 696, "text": "The Broan QS130SS is a pretty nice upgrade from what we had before, which was a NuTone hood that was so old I couldn't even find a replacement filter for it.  While I'm not sure this range hood is actually worth $150+ for some thin metal and a couple of basic electronic features (fan and lights) -- I'm sure the markup for the retailers is great -- it is a pretty slick looking hood that otherwise seems to be of pretty good quality so far.\n\nInstallation notes:\n- We needed to go with the ductless mode for this hood, which should have made it that much more easier to install, except in our case it was quite a challenge.  It should be easy to install because once you have some screws in place (a total of 4), you can just line them up with the keyhole slots on the top of the hood. Unfortunately, the screw positions from our old hood did not align with this new model, so we basically had to start from scratch and without a whole lot of usable under-cabinet space.  While preparing the hood for ductless mode was very easy, it was quite a pain to line up 4 new screw positions on the underside of the cabinet.  Please be sure to wear gloves, because there are some sharp metal edges on the inside of this hood that will slice ya, as it did me, if you're not careful.  Aside from the mounting part, everything else, including the wiring, was pretty straightforward.\n\nNote to Broan: please include a mounting template.\n\n- There is one gotcha with this hood in that the directions call for adding an electrical clamp to the wiring hole.  Yet for whatever reason, Broan doesn't include this small part which only costs about .50 cents at the hardware store.  This was annoying to find out when I was ready to get this thing installed only to learn I needed to run out to the local hardware store.  Technically, you could skip the electrical clamp, as our old hood (installed by someone else years before we moved in) didn't have one, but then your wiring would be sitting over the edge of a sharp, thin metal hole, and I don't know if that's a code violation, but definitely not something I'd want to worry about.\n\nLight bulb notes:\nThe manufacturer clearly states they only support the PAR20 type halogens or incandescent bulbs and for good reason -- this unit simply does not play nice with LED bulbs.  Sure, proper sized LED bulbs will turn on with this hood, but more likely than not, they will not dim as you'd hope they would. Instead, the LED bulbs might just stay the same level of brightness but flicker badly on the low brightness setting. If you're OK with LEDs only on the bright setting, then I'd say go for them, but otherwise go with what Broan recommends/supports.\n\nFilter notes:\nIf you're going for ductless, remember to get the charcoal filters.  Also note that the charcoal filters do not work by themselves -- you have to clip them on to the all-metal filters that are included with the range hood, or they won't fit. I didn't realize this at first and didn't read the directions (because why would I!  Should be so simple...) and thought I had the wrong sized filters. Before giving up I finally read the instructions and got everything nicely into place.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3607, "id": 13951, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 551, "len_tokens": 631, "text": "When I received this item I immediatley knew that something would be wrong. The box it was packaged in and delivered in was open and torn up. Not open like someone opened it I mean it was sent in a box with no bottom and no side, just taped together with styrofoam. I opened it and thought well it maybe ok, this is a big item to send. The right front wheel is off balance from the rest so the whole machine wobbles, the back panel had puncture marks in it and was off level from the rest of the machine. I thought jeez what have I bought. So I thought well I will hook it up and use it,see how it does. It ran beautifully and cleaned my dishes cleaner than I have ever seen them. At that point I thought well the damage is in the back and the wheel doesn not cause it to wobble while it is running so I will just be grateful I finally have a dishwasher. As I was unhooking it from the sink the ball bearings that hold the connector piece in place fell out and down my sink. So I spent 2 days trying to call the company and get a replacement piece or something. NOTHING NO ANSWER AT ALL....Even during the times they SAy they are in the office there is still no answer. So I searched online and in stores for this piece. NOWHERE!!! Danby is not even registered at Sears or Maytag ar any big dishwasher supplier for that matter. HELL all of the actual plumbing repair stores did not have the piece I needed. I was told over and over again, no one really uses that hook up anymore ma'am, or \"Wow what an ancient piece\". So I went online and had to order a $90.00 hose and hook up from GE. Once it came in I realized it was not compatble with this Danby dishwasher. So I spent another week trying to call Danby and still NO ANSWER. Finally my husband cut the tubes from the dishwasher and used hose clamps and metal nipples to piece the dishwasher hoses and the new GE hookup together. I did have to go out and buy a new adapter for my sink as the Danby one does not work with the GE. But now the dishwasher works and it still cleans beautifully. The GE hookup is made with little plastic nudules that cannot fall out instead of ball bearings which if you are not careful will fall down your sink. So I would have liked to give this product a 1 or even a 0 based on customer service (NONE) and the way that the item was packaged and the way it arrived so damaged, BUT the dishwasher does slean so very well. You don't even have to rinse the plates before you put them in and they still come out sparkly. So all in all I WOULD NEVER EVER BUY FROM THEM AGAIN. If you add up the cost of the dishwasher and shipping, plus all the money it took to repair it, I could have gotten a much higher quality dishwasher with no problems at all for less than what this dishwasher cost me in the  end.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3608, "id": 13952, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 551, "len_tokens": 638, "text": "*Updated - See below*\n\nDo not buy this machine, or any other Danby product for that matter, because their customer service is nonexistent.\n\nI owned my Danby Portable dishwaser for about 6 months before my latch broke and the wash cycle therefore would not start. I live in Hartford, CT, and I called ALL of the service centers listed on Danby's website in CT and they either stopped working on Danby products (which I will address later), or they would not travel to Hartford, or they would not return my phone call.\n\nAfter a week of waiting for a return call from the messages I left, I decided to call customer service and they actually gave me a service phone number that would come out to look at my machine and repair it.\n\nAfter the repairman looked at the machine he told me that he needed to order a part for it. A week later I called the service center and they stated that the part that I needed was on backorder for 4 weeks.\n\nI called Danby customer service and stated that it was unacceptable that I should have to wait 4 more weeks for my dishwasher to be available for use. They told me that it was not their responsibility and to return it to the place that I bought it. I called the retailer and they stated that they had never\nheard that before and that they would call Danby and verify this statement. I called the reteiler a week later and they said that they had left several messages and Danby never returned one call!!!\n\nAfter this I relunctantly realized that I would have to wait until the part came in. A full 6 weeks after the initial service visit I called the service provider. they stated that they have not receieved the part yet and that they severed their relationship with Danby because of the extremely poor customer service, parts backordered, etc..... but they would honor their commitment to me whenever the part came in.\n\nThe convenience of this portable dishwasher is dwarfed by the incompetence of Danby's customer support. I will never purchase another Danby product again, nor will I ever recommend one to anyone else. I will however, make it a point, that if someone ever mentions the Danby name to me again, to ensure that they walk away from the conversation feeling exactly the same way about Danby that I currently do.\n\n**UPDATE**\n\nOk, after I finally got so fed up that I called Danby again. And, to my surprise the woman that took my call actuallly listened to my story and told me that she was sorry and that she would get a replacement machine to me right away. The machine came in 3 business days and they took away the broken one.\n\nThe whole \"experience\" that I went through with this machine has been less than memorable. Although the machine works very well and the fact that it was eventually replaced still does not overcome the grief that I was put through by Danby's customer service. The fact that there was one \"good apple\" in a basket of rotten ones does not change my mind that this machine and all Danby poroducts should be avoided due to lack of customer service.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3609, "id": 24982, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 513, "len_tokens": 602, "text": "I had just purchased a new washer and dryer set from Best Buy. They had a drier cord for over $35 that they offered to deliver with the appliances. I did a quick amazon search on my cell phone and saw drier cords for much less, so I declined. When I got home to my computer and searched drier cords, I was very surprised to see a Monster Cable Dryer Cord!\n\nI have been using Monster cables for a long time in my audio/video equipment setups and I had never known that they made a dryer cord! This dryer cord is a green color and is a 4 conductor model. They also sell a 3 conductor model to for use in older homes with a 3 prong electrical outlet. I don't particularly like the light green color, but since it is behind the drier I guess it doesn't really matter. Standard white would have been nicer however.\n\nA really neat feature that is also common in a lot of modern extension cords is that it has a power indicator light on the plug end to tell you if you have power. If your drier ever stopped working, this would help you troubleshoot to know at least if it was an electrical breaker or your drier that was the problem. I haven't seen any other drier cords with this feature. It is plenty long at 6 ft. It is very thick yet flexible at the same time so it won't hinder you from pushing your drier all the way back to the back wall. It comes with a metal strain/pull out bushing clamp that will attach it securely to the drier. And here is the best part. It's under $25! Amazing. I bought a Monster Audio cable that's half the length and a tenth the diameter that costs twice as much! This is true bargain for a premium drier cord! These Monster Cable drier cords are by far the best deals out there and for a superior product. No other dryer cord even comes close! I would highly recommend this product!\n\n**Review Update** - July 15, 2014. Well it's been 5 years since I first installed this dryer power cable and it is still working great. I've had to replace the heating element twice on the Samsung dryer, but no problems with the power cord. The Glowing light did stop working about 2 years into use. So much for not having to check the breaker! I haven't actually had to check the breaker. When the heating element went out, the dryer still turned on, it just didn't get warm. I wish the light still worked as it is a very useful feature. Many of the extensions cords I have also have a glowing connector socket to let me know that power is on and I do find it nice knowing. Otherwise I still would give it 5 stars. I see that it has increased in price to $33. I know the pricing fluctuates on Amazon, but I would still consider it a good deal.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3610, "id": 25714, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 493, "len_tokens": 608, "text": "Yes, this is just a double-ended 1/4\" Allen wrench--but it's tougher than the usual soft metal Allen wrenches you normally find at the hardware store.  I actually stripped a 1/4\" wrench trying to free this budge before I found this tool.  My mother-in-law, actually, told me about it.  Thanks Mom!\n\nMy disposal was completely solidly jammed.  When powered, there would be the typical sound of a stuck electric motor.  I stripped an Allen wrench trying to free it.  I found out about this tool and tried to use it three times to no avail.  The jam would not budge at all.  I began to fear that my disposal was not jammed but suffered some kind of catastrophic failure.  This was really bad timing, too, because I had just put my condo on the market and I didn't want to have to replace the disposal.\n\nAfter reading more of the reviews here on Amazon (which, in reality, were as useful as the tool itself) I decided not to give up.  Whatever was wrong with my disposal, it seemed plausible that I could unjam it with this tool based on the very encouraging testimonials.  But I still could not get the wrench to budge at all.  I would try in one direction, then the other.\n\nOne issue, also, was that I had to be careful of how much force I could apply to the twisting motion because the torque a applied would also twist the pipes a bit as well as put a lot of force on the kitchen sink, so I was worried about simultaneously fixing the disposal but breaking something else in the process.  I was pushing, sometimes, with all my might and I'm pretty burly, so ripping the disposal right out of its mount was a real possibility, here, so I nearly decided to give up as nothing but frustration was rewarding my efforts.\n\nFinally, I tried \"jiggling\" the tool.  Instead of using a lot of muscle to try to force the jam, I thought that maybe quickly going back and forth with less pressure might free whatever was stuck in the disposal.  I have no idea what it could have been, maybe a screw or something.  I had recently moved and had about a dozen people at my house to help with the move and any one of them could have dropped a ring, a piece of jewelry, an earring...who knows?  Anyway, the jiggling action did the trick!  I got a little play at first, and then a little more and so on until I could completely turn the wrench. The feedback was grindy and not very smooth, but, after about two more complete revolutions, the wrench was able to turn the motor shaft completely smoothly and effortlessly with no resistance at all.  I got out from under the sink, turned on the water and flipped the switch and my Badger 5 was humming away again like new.\n\nI'm pretty stoked!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3611, "id": 26905, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 531, "len_tokens": 628, "text": "there are so many filter hookups that it can be unreal trying to find \"yours\".  This filter is used on my RO system as a final filter before going to the tap for taste after all the nasties have been taken out of the water.\n\nYour filter change interval should be 6 months. why?  I have a photo of the 3 pre-filters that take out MOST of the nasties before the water hits the RO membrane - their job is to protect the membrane against big stuff hitting it and the final filter before water goes off to the RO surface area is a 1 micron spun filter (no carbon - no taste - just keeps particulate from going into the RO membrane)\n\nThe RO system is all connected with 1/4\" tubing - from the output of this filter it goes to the tap (and along the way there is a T fitting in the tubing to monitor the water quality) - that gives me a numerical number as to how clean the water is.  It can go as low as 4 ppm TDS (total disolved solids) - it comes from the city at 260 ppm TDS so the RO system is doing its job.  Mine also has a UV-C lamp (germacidal) to kill anything that makes it through so the final water is sterile as well.\n\nThe only other filter that could be added to this system is a mixed bed DI (de-Ionization) filter which takes out any stray ions and traps them chemically but it would only take the 4ppm down to 0 ppm.  It's also not good to drink 0 ppm water because it is so devoid of minerals that the water will pull minerals out of your body as it goes through the kidneys and divert those that were headed for cells to the uninary output.\n\nbetween 4-10 ppm is a good range to shoot for in TDS for drinking water - MUCH better than the 250-500 that the city water can give you\n\n6 months is an ideal filter change interval - reason is because even thought the filter is not clogged, stuff can grow on the filter media - bacterium that come in with the water and are less than the epa guidelines for drinkable water have a nice place to sit and multiply.  I took a photo of the  3 prefilters on my 6 mo change and they were pretty darn green (started off nice and white) by the 6 mo change time.\n\nSo even if it flows fine and tastes fine - use time as a measure of filter change.\n\nps - the tubes will just push in and be a royal pain to pull out - the trick is to pull up on the pincher around the tube first to release the compression, then remove the tube, push the pincher back in on the new filter and push the tube straight in - ensure it is not deformed - if so it will leak and not make a good seal.  Cut off 1/2\" if that is the case at the end to make a straight cut and a round 1/4 \" tube.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3612, "id": 29864, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 509, "len_tokens": 625, "text": "An ex-coworker once gave me a sound bit of advice. He said when contemplating a purchase, a new job, or life change, one should judge it according to how it would affect the quality of your life. Well, after an extended visit to the In-laws, and using their under-counter dishwasher, we found ourselves once again wishing we could have a dishwasher to handle the moderate daily accumulation of glasses, bowls, and silverware that sit in the sink. Unfortunately, short of a total remodeling, there is no way to fit a traditional under-the-counter dishwasher in our kitchen. The Danby countertop proved to be the solution.\n\nIs it small? Not exactly - it takes up quite a bit of counter space, and we had to shave a quarter inch off of one cabinet to make it fit. Is it quiet? As dishwashers go, it's not too bad, but it is up at ear level, so if you are in the kitchen while it is running, you know it. Is it easy to use? Yes, once you decipher the cryptic little symbols on the front. The thing that looks like a fried egg apparently is the international symbol for \"drying with heat\", and the button that controls whether the heating element is used is hard to figure out. There is no locking handle like on most under-counter models. You push the door closed until it clicks. This also takes a little practice until you gain confidence. Is it easy to install?  Yes. Other than the aforementioned cabinet mod, it was just hook up the hoses and plug it in. Oh, we did have to replace a non-standard thread Price-Phister faucet with a utilitarian Moen to get the quick-disconnect adapter to fit. BTW, they recommend you do NOT have a sprayer on the faucet to which you connect the dishwasher, as high back pressures could cause it to burst. Usually the connection for the sprayer can just be plugged.\n\nDoes it get the dishes clean? YES! Does it eliminate hand washing? Not entirely, partly because it doesn't hold much. (It is designed for plates, and we use a lot of bowls.) We have not yet tried to wash plastic things using the \"no heat\" setting, which only uses the temperature of the incoming water and not the heating element.\n\nHas it improved our quality of life? You bet!\n\nMinor quibbles: 1)The unit is very heavy, very shiny and slippery, and therefore hard to lift. (The unpacking instructions mention a handle...there is none.) If you are a senior or a small person, get some help to unpack and install it. 2) In order to use the quick-connect hose, you have to install an adapter piece on the end of your faucet. This piece, although it contains an aeration screen, has a very small opening, and it takes practice not to squirt water all over the place when you turn the water on when the washer is not connected. The inclusion of a quick-connect sprayer nozzle would be a great improvement on the product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3613, "id": 35048, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 560, "len_tokens": 695, "text": "I've been using Vandoren reeds with a Selmer reed case for a number of years now.  I heard about some of the pros using Rico reeds and thought, \"Really? Rico??  Isn't Rico the default brand that beginners play on before they discover what real reeds are like?\" But I tried a few different ones, and I'm now using them instead of Vandoren. I liked the Rico Reserve Classic reeds the best, but I also got some Grand Concert reeds, which come with one of the humidifier packs included in the box. I tried using it with my Selmer reed case in a ziploc bag (I would always keep the case in a ziploc bag, anyway).  At first, I couldn't tell too much of a difference in the reeds, but when I stopped using the humidifier pack, my reeds seemed worse.  I tried another humidifier pack, but it hardened up too quickly.  I think it was because the ziploc bag was used and not completely sealed tight. It was also a little cumbersome to have the humidifier pack loose in the ziploc bag. That made me want to try one of these Rico reed cases which were designed to hold the humidifier packs.\n\nAs I looked at this product online, I thought, \"huh, it's plastic... that's kind of cheap\" and \"the reeds aren't kept on a glass surface, so how do I know that they won't get warped or something?\" I was skeptical and still too attached to my Selmer case. But after thinking about it a while and considering other positive reviews on amazon and elsewhere, I decided, \"Well, it's less than $20, so it's worth a shot. If I don't like it, I don't have to keep using it.\"\n\nWhen the produce arrived, I was pleasantly surprised. It was better quality than I expected. I wouldn't say that it's super high quality like the reed cases with wood and velvet, but it's pretty good for the price.  Although it's plastic, the outside has a soft feel to it, and the case closes securely with a thin rubber ring along the edge to keep in the moisture. The humidifier pack fits perfectly in its designated place, and the reed slots are numbered. Because the case can fit multiple sizes of reeds, it came with a set of adhesive labels for different instruments (Clarinet, Bass Clarinet, Alto Sax, Tenor Sax, etc.). There's a small rectangle on the back of the case which is where the label is intended to go. Since I just needed it for clarinet reeds and nothing else, I didn't bother putting a label on it, but I was pleased to know that Rico was considerate to give me the option.\n\nAt first I wasn't sure what I would think about the individual slots for the reeds and the rubber bands and plastic backing. I was used to the flat piece of glass in my Selmer case. But after using it for a while, the reeds are working great, and the slots make it easier to keep track of each one. I find myself playing on more of my reeds than before.\n\nAfter using the case for a few weeks now, I can say that it's great to use, and I would certainly recommend it to other players, beginners or advanced or well seasoned.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3614, "id": 36136, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 541, "len_tokens": 689, "text": "There seems to be so much confusion and misleading reviews about this adaptor and the different mounting systems.  If you purchase one of the the Waste King EZ Mount disposers, a new mounting kit is supplied in the box.  Yes, you can try to save time by paying $10 for this adaptor kit, but why?\n\nFirst, most disposers are available with both mounting systems.  I purchased the Waste King L-8000 which uses an EZ Mount, but I could have just as easily purchased the L-9980.  The latter is basically the same 1.0-horsepower unit but with a 3-bolt system. Understandably, this doesn't help if you've already made your purchase and were unaware of the difference, but it's still not going to save time by using the kit with your existing 3-bolt mount. If you have not purchased a disposer yet, purchasing this adaptor with an EZ Mount doesn't make much sense at all.\n\nInstallation - It most cases is it NOT easier to install the EZ Mount with a kit.  The discharge/output port is a standard height on most brand disposers.  That means the new unit should line up perfectly with your existing pipes, unless you use an adaptor.  The adaptor will lower the unit. You may be able to tilt the pipes down to line up, but it most cases you will need to purchase new pipes (and a hacksaw if you don't have one).  I cannot see any circumstance where this would be easier than replacing the old 3-bolt and flange.  Removing the old 3-bolt is not hard, I cannot emphasize this enough.  You take a screwdriver and loosen the three bolts.  There is a clamp ring at the base of the flange that can be easily popped off with a flathead screwdriver or pliers.  Once the clamp ring is removed, gravity will remove the assembly and the flange can be pulled right out of the sink.  Even with hardened plumbers putty, it will pull right out. No problem. That's it!  After that the EZ mount will install literally in about 5 minutes or less.  If you have to re-align your pipes there is absoutely no way you are going to save time or money.\n\nThe only circumstance where I can see people needing this adaptor is if they unknowingly purcheased an EZ Mount disposer over a similar model with a 3-bolt...and are either 1. picky about how the flange looks in the sink, or 2) do not like the slightly smaller diameter splash guard.  In the case of the flange, you can still order specialty flanges in different colors and looks, but at a cost.  To keep your original flange you would need the kit.  But again, that is only if one unknowningly purchased an EZ Mount when a similar 3-bolt is available, and your objection is the look or style of the flange or splash guard, NOT functionality.  Otherwise there is virtually no circumstance where you need this adaptor, or can use it to save time regardless of which disposer your purchased.\n\nMy advice, just pick a disposer with the mounting system you prefer.  For me it doesn't matter because I would always prefer to replace the old mounting system with the new one in the box.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3615, "id": 36543, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 468, "len_tokens": 617, "text": "This little wonder is as wonderful as Whirlpool (\"WP\") keeps insisting.\n\nNow let me first say that every washing machine I have ever owned has been a WP - so there is some loyalty there.  But bias aside, this machine delivers.\n\nThe 'space age' console that lit up like a Christmas tree was impressive enough, but WP added ease of operation.  Use the pre-set wash cycles (turn the knob) or modify each to your liking (press the up and down buttons at each selection) - poetry in motion.  One CAVEAT - I have not yet tried to programme a delayed wash, so I don't know how easy that is.  The instructions in the manual seemed simple enough though.\n\nLARGE TUB:  The stainless steel tub is deceptively large.  When I first looked in I noted the absence of the agitator but still I thought it wasn't as large as had been advertised.  Then I put in what was in my old machine a \"medium\" load.  My medium load became an extra small.  What joy!\n\nWATER SAVING:  They do not lie!  No more clothes swimming (pun) in water.  This washer 'measures/weighs' the clothing (ain't technology wonderful?) and adds just enough water to the clothes to clean them.  I was counting the savings (and apparently saving a tree in the Amazon) as I sat in fascination and watched my clothes wash.  (Love the see through lid by the way).\n\nCLEANING RESULTS:  Clean the clothes it did.  My whites were clean and fresh.\n\nLOTS OF CYCLES:  To suit every need.  The BULKY ITEMS cycle is a gem.\n\nLID LOCK:  The lid locks as soon as you press the Start button.  You can pause during any cycle by pressing the Pause/Cancel button once (twice will cancel the wash), then pressing Start to continue.\n\nFEATURES:  Too many to adequately expound on here.  I love the THREE DISPENSERS - detergent (only high efficiency liquid or powder), liquid bleach and fabric softener.  The end-of-cycle ALERT is indispensable and can be turned off, soft or loud.  The machine is QUIET.  Capital QUIET.  Amazingly QUIET!  (which is why you really need the end-of-cycle alert).  The DRAIN AND SPIN cycle is great for those times when you start a wash and can't finish.  The CLEAN MACHINE cycle - also a keeper.\n\nThe machine has a pleasing design and despite greater capacity and features, seems to take up less floor space than my older model washer.\n\nI personally suggest using a surge suppressor with this washer simply because so many of the features are computerised and it is a large investment (would be a shame to watch it go down in flames).\n\nI haven't had it long enough to comment on energy savings, but for every other reason cited above (and more), I fully recommend this washer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3616, "id": 38515, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 551, "len_tokens": 658, "text": "I really don't get how most people write such whiny reviews about products that have nothing to do with the product itself. Wrong size? You probably bought the wrong filter. Don't like the price? You should have looked at replacement filters before purchasing your humidifier. Not happy with the seller? Leave them bad feedback, don't tell me about that here unless you mention the exact seller so I can avoid them.\n\nWe've had our humidifier for a few years now and we live practically on the Canadian border. Ambient air temp last night was -1 F (last year at this time is was -10 F). At those temps the air is very dry and I fill our humidifier about every 6 hours. I've also tried lots of different filters, the mineral additive stuff, and cleaning them. Our water is also fairly hard. So here is my take on these filters:\n\nGet the the name brand Aircare filter, anything else won't last. The Aircare filter does not have a bad smell, as some reviewers have mentioned, and its a perfect fit for the units its designed for. Maybe some sellers are passing off cheapo filters for Aircare ones, I bought mine directly from Amazon. Yeah, so they might be a little stiff when dry and in the packaging but it really is no big deal. Install it dry, or pre-soak it, either way works and it is an equal small pain to install. I've also purchased a variety of filters from Home Depot and homedepot.com. Again unless its the Aircare brand (which is not stocked in our local stores) they are junk and only last a few weeks at most, even with the tips I listed below.\n\nThe best tips I can give besides to go with the Aircare brand filter are: 1) Do not let the filter dry out. I've found once the minerals dry into the filter it doesn't like to absorb water anymore. Don't let your humidifier run out of water. The cheapo filters are even worse for this. 2) If your filter is starting to get mineral build up soak it in water and white vinegar. The sooner you do this the better and it really works. I should take photos to show it but I'm too lazy. Cleaning cheapo filters doesn't seem to work as well as it does on the Aircare. I've tried other vinegars too but I don't think they worked as well so use the white vinegar. 3) The mineral additives do help but I'm not sure they justify the extra price and they don't work all that great from my experience. They also make the bottom tray all slimely and I never did figure out what the stuff is or if its safe. I tried the additive with a cheapo filter and still only got a few weeks out of it. I only use hot water to fill the tank because I read the hot water tank can help remove minerals. Doesn't make a ton of sense but it why not try it? I also flip the filter over every so often or after cleaning it with white vinegar. Some of these tips are not exactly confirmed but it doesn't hurt to try. Maybe someone else can confirm some of these ideas.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3617, "id": 38710, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 543, "len_tokens": 647, "text": "Update at 5 months: The unit is making creaky noises when trying to cool, and the temperature is getting warmer inside. I tried the internal thermostat adjustment again, but I think that the compressor is dying. Remember the review that said this was a good first kegerator? Well, I think I would have rather spent more for a good LAST kegerator. I have changed out the tap and the regulator for better quality, but I think I wasted that money because I think I will be replacing this unit soon.\n\n1. You may need to adjust the pressure relief valve on the regulator for it to hold pressure. Mine continuously vented. I suspect others that have drained CO2 tanks may have had maladjusted relief valves. Look for slots on the end and adjust with a spanner wrench, or even needle-nose pliers. You may wish to remove it and reinstall with teflon tape on the threads.\n\n2. You may not need to purchase a 5 pound cylinder! I exchanged my empty 2.5 pound cylinder for a full 5 pound cylinder for the cost of the gas plus $4. The larger diameter of the 5 pound cylinder did not interfere with the keg, though the holding strap would not stretch around it.\n\n3. As others have mentioned, the big round rubber washer goes between the tower and the top of the unit.\n\n4. Before inserting the beer check valve in the tap, turn it upside down to see if there is not one already there.\n\n5. Flush water through the beer hoses and tap BEFORE you start assembly. This helpful hint was at the end of the instructions.\n\nAfter initial experiences, and re-reading other reviews, I believe it is safe to say that this unit/company has terrible quality assurance. Some people have had great experiences - but you can't be assured of getting the same good experience some have had. Thus my 1-star review. As another reviewer said, if you buy this unit you will have to mess with it to get everything working. Here are my bad experiences:\n\n1. I have adjusted the thermostat internally twice, and the temperature is still going 40 degrees. Other reviewers describe this.\n2. The CO2 cylinder left a brass splinter in my finger the first time I picked it up. This is inexcusable. It's good that I got that one exchanged when I went to fill it!\n3. The low pressure gauge on the regulator does not seem to register any pressure below 10 psi. It goes from 0 to 10 when any pressure is applied. I have been trying for a lower pressure because I have good beer that does not need to be overly-fizzy. It may be that my regulator goes from 0 to 10, as even slow adjustments go from no flow to too fast flow. Part of this is the high temperature of the unit (>40 degrees), but I decided to replace the regulator with a good quality one to avoid lost gas and to give more adjustment.\n4. The instructions say to insert the beer check valve into the tap, but don't warn there might be one in there already. I found out by luck accident after inserting the one that came separately.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3618, "id": 38787, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 522, "len_tokens": 656, "text": "I purchased this kegerator about a month ago now.  It has worked as designed since I purchased it, with a few minor issues.\n\nFirst, I wanted to comment on the power usage.  This thing is incredibly energy efficient!  The first thing I do with any appliance is I hook it up to a kill-a-watt meter.  When the compressor first kicks on, it draws ~650 watts (which is enough to make your lights dim), but the power usage quickly drops from there.  Within 5 seconds, the unit is drawing ~100 watts.  After 30 seconds, the compressor is running at its optimal level and is drawing 84 watts.  84 watts is less than a 100 watt incandescent light bulb!  Who would have thought a fridge could draw less power than a light bulb.  My kill-a-watt is reading that the fridge has consumed 5.66kWH in 184 hours of being on.  That comes to an average of .739kWH per day, to keep a half barrel keg at 38 degrees Fahrenheit in a ~72-74 degree house.  I think this is quite impressive.\n\nThe fridge is able to do this for the following reason; there are no fans inside or outside the fridge to speed up the cooling process.  The outside of the fridge is actually the heat sink for the hot coolant.  So when the fridge is on, the left and right side will get warm to the touch but this is normal.\n\nAs stated by other people though, the compressor is louder than I had hoped.  Luckily for me, I put it in the corner of the kitchen which prevents it from having a line of sight.  This seems to help the noise, and you will quickly forget it is on.\n\nAnother negative comment, I can't figure out the proper way to connect the keg coupler to the line that runs to the handle.  The o-ring they want you to use does not fit and it caused beer to come out at the keg connection.  So I used a larger o-ring and that stopped the beer from coming out at the connection.  But there is still a good amount of foam that comes from the first pull of the day.  This may be normal with all kegerators though.\n\nMy last comment, even though its not the fault of the fridge.  When I went to have the 2.5lb tank filled, I thought everything was normal.  As I was driving home from having it filled, the pressure cap on it blew filling my car with white smoke and scaring me half to death.  I took the tank back to the place I had it filled, and they actually decided to give me a 5lb tank instead (free of charge).  This problem may have come from the place where I filled it, but I got a 5lb tank out of the deal for free.  The tank fits in the kegerator no problem!  I simply used zip-ties to connect it to the tank restraints inside the kegerator.\n\nOverall, I am satisfied with the purchase.  Lets just hope that the quality is there and the fridge can last for years!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3619, "id": 38875, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 501, "len_tokens": 654, "text": "Update:  After trying for 6 months, I still cannot simply tap a keg and enjoy the beer.  This has been a very frustrating experience for me since the first issue with the regulator (described below).  I regularly blow through CO2 and every time I need to refill the CO2 tank I have to drive 45m to the local brew store.  I have checked for leaks 10 times, tightened every connection possible.  I replaced all of the hoses (which helped with over-foaming..I thought).  I replaced the faucet, thinking that this was the cause of the leak.  Now the issue is that when I tap the keg and ever so slightly open up the CO2, it way-out carbonates the keg (so the foam is likely from a bad regulator and not the hoses).  My only recourse is to vent the CO2 out of the keg (which then prevents it from pouring).  I have ordered a new regulator; hopefully this fixes the issue of the keg getting over-carbonated.  So net-net, Ive spent $60 in CO2 for 2 kegs worth of beer, $50 for a new regulator, and $30 for new hoses etc.  And I still have the issue that with my new hose set-up, the Sankay tap and hoses are too tall to fit into the kegerator standing upright.  I'll probably end up selling this one.\n\nI debated a 2 tap; 3 tap, under counter, larger system....varying from $400 to $2000....but ultimately I decided on this one because of price.  I picked this up for a great price on amazon with no shipping or sales tax.  My wife made a good point that with only one beer drinker in the house, what am I going to do with two taps (plus I could always change it out if I really needed two beers on tap).  And the counter-mount idea is a few years off for us (remodeling the basement).  And this one comes with a sankay tap which is worth another $25.  So this is a great starter kegerator.\nIt will only fit one 1/6th keg (5 gal) that you get from your local micro-brewery but it will fit 2 homebrew-type kegs (Cornys).\nIt comes with a 2.5lb CO2 tank - which is fine for one keg.\nThe instructions are a bit involved if you're not an experienced kegger.  For example, when I hooked up the regulator to the CO2 and opened up the valve, the CO2 shot out the pressure release valve.  I called nostalgia and connected straight to a woman who explained to me to turn the red knob all the way down and then to turn on the CO2.  This process somehow reset the release valve and everything is good to go.\nAlso, another tip - when tapping your first sankay keg, make sure the sankay tap is up first, then you easily twist it on, and then you press down.  This prevents beer from spraying all over you.\nOverall, Im happy with it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3620, "id": 38889, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 561, "len_tokens": 693, "text": "First, I want to comment on the price of this product.  I bought it on a Friday for $347 and FREE SHIPPING!  By Monday the price was $413 + $56 for shipping.  Don't know if I got lucky timing or what, but $347 for this kegerator is outstanding!\n\nThe kegerator was delivered within 5 days by UPS.  Seemed to be packaged very well by the makers.  However, upon opening I discovered the kegerator had 2 small dents on the lower left corner, I'm positive this happened during delivery.  It wasn't anything major and I decided to keep it as I think something of this size runs a high risk of damage by UPS anyhow.\n\nFirst impression out of the box was great.  Looks great and is easy to move around once the metal casters were easily assembled.  After reading TONS of reviews about this model I decided to just go ahead and adjust the thermostat before getting it running.  I also decided to just throw in the tower plug and let it run over night to check temp with a fridge thermometer.  Glad I did it was 26 in there.  Turned the dial down to just over medium and it is a steady 34.  Had the included 2.5 lb tank filled and picked up a quarter keg of beer.  I let them sit in the kegerator over night to settle down and tapped them the next morning following the instruction in booklet.  I also watched the youtube video on setup.  The you tube video was outdated and didn't quite match up, but the visual did help.\n\nI found the setup pretty straightforward and fairly easy.  I was mainly concerned about the tower fitting properly as some previous reviewers stated it was difficult or wobbley when installed.  I used the washer and a little WD40 and it twisted right on, nice and tight without much effort.  After I secured all hoses to the CO2, keg coupler, and beer tap I tapped the beer.  It leaked from the connection to the keg.  I took apart the coupler and used a larger washer and problem solved!  I did not use any plumbers tape as others reviewed they had, no leaks.  The regulator needed a lot of tunning to get the pressure down under 10 psi.  The only real negative I have about this unit is you need a wrench to turn the pressure knob on the regulator.  I finally settled my pressure at about 6-7 psi and it pours GREAT!  I did let the pressure out of the keg and regulator several times before getting it just right, but hardly any wasted beer at all.\n\nThe dual regulator is nice and seems really strudy.  Wish it had a 5 lb tank but leaves a little more room in the kegerator for frosted mugs.  With a quarter in there you can still use the included shelves for storing several glasses or loose bottle or cans.\n\nI have only used this product for the weekend but wanted to post my inital setup and thoughts on the product's quality and value.  I must say the value for the price of this kegerator is unreal.  I am VERY VERY happy with my purchase and look forward to enjoying ice cold draft beers at home for years to come.  I will definetly update this review in the coming months.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3621, "id": 38921, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 468, "len_tokens": 625, "text": "The item is ok, but this certainly isn't a top line product.\n\nThe bad news:\n-It came dented.\n-It's missing a washer for the wheels.\n-The door doesn't seal\n-It cools to about 45deg (I adjusted the thermostat.  I'll have to try again.)(UPDATE: Turns out the thermostat adjusts in the opposite direction from the review explaining how to make the modification.)\n-It's loud.  (Louder than the other mini-frige in the room.)\n-The CO2 tank uses a safety blow-out disk.  I blew it out (guy filling the tank thought it was a 5lb tank so put 3.5lb in it).  The problem is, getting another safety disk isn't something I could pick up in town.\n-In our excitement, all 5 engineers putting the thing together missed the set screw on the pressure regulator.  On the plus side, with enough arm greese and a pliers, you can turn it with the set screw in.  On the minus side, we stripped out about an eight of a turn of the thread.\n-The first tank of CO2 (5lb) drained out over night.  I still don't know why.\n\nThe good news:\n-It works.\n-The tubes are all nicely terminated so the only real work to get it up and running is to convert the tap to work with the tubes already connected to the regulator and the part coming out of the top, then connect them.\n-It's cheap\n\nOverall, I've got a feeling that once I've gotten all the idiosyncracies worked out, I'll be happy (unless the temp doesn't come down a bit more).  If you want a unit you'll get that'll look good and work right strait out of the box, you might want to go with something else.  But if you want an inexpensive kegorator to get you to your beer, this does the job.\n\nUPDATE:  found another subtle problem. If the beer line sits against the back wall of the kegorator, it can freeze (since there really isn't anything separating the cooling coils from inside of the kegorator).  Moved the line off the back wall and it worked in minutes. (for reference, had adjusted the calibration on the thermostat to let it go lower.)\n\nUPDATE2: This keg-o-rator seems to have poor cooling in the tower causing the first half-glass of beer to be all foam.  It's a common problem I believe [...]  Going to buy a tower cooling kit [...] and see if that fixes the problem.\n\nUPDATE 3: Just added added my second keg to the keg-o-rator.  The keg sits on the door a bit (as it's a 1/2 barrel) and, unfortunately, that's causing the door to sag and preventing it from sealing so that now the keg-o-rator won't cool.  This product is more trouble than it's worth.  Highly recommend people buy a better quality product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3622, "id": 38983, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 482, "len_tokens": 640, "text": "UPDATE:  Six years, still working great.\n\nFor starters, stop reading reviews prior to 2011.  The early issues with this kegerator have been addressed to the point Nostalgia really should assign it a new model number.  As reported by others the regulator is now a pretty nice dual gauge unit, with a lockable output valve.  Meaning once you get your CO2 settings dialed in you can lock the knob so it doesn't get changed accidentally while changing out a keg, etc.  Also, the unit is dead quiet.\n\nThe instructions have been completely revamped and are very easy to follow.  All the spare parts provided have been labeled in the manual, no mysteries there either.  Before this arrived I downloaded a PDF copy of the old instructions, and it's true the early buyers were basically left in the dark.\n\nI followed the instructions, charged my tank, threw in a 1/4 barrel, and no problems at all.  The beer has a perfect head on it, and my monitoring of temps have been hovering around 34-35f.  That's with the thermostat set to maximum, so I'll be watching that closely.  I don't want my beer to freeze!\n\nA few things to note:\n\n1)  The keg tower rubber washer (#5) was not already installed, and is not really mentioned in the manual.  Be sure to install it otherwise there's not a tight seal between the tower and fridge and cool air will escape.  You'll know if it's not on because the tower installs too easy and doesn't feel tight.  The nice side effect of this design is that the tower is basically cooled, so less stale beer in the line.\n\n2)  A 5 pound CO2 tank will fit with a full 1/2 barrel, and can be bought at a local gas supply or welding shop filled for about 50 bucks.  Refills on the tank are around $9.  The 2.5 pound tank shipped is fine, and I'll be filling it so I have a full tank at all times.  The 2.5 pound tank should be able to dispense 2-4 1/2 barrel kegs, the 5 pound tank 4-8 1/2 barrel kegs.  Tighter fittings, lower CO2 settings, more kegs...\n\n3)  The casters are optional, and there are already self leveling feet installed if (like me) you prefer the unit to be shorter and stationary.  Height to the top of the fridge door is exactly 31 inches without the caster installed.\n\nAnyway, given all the features and the insane price of $380 shipped I can't see how anyone could be unhappy at this point.  All the negative reviews made me really ponder this purchase, but I'm happy to report they're all talking about a different product.  I'll post a follow up at 12 months, or before if I experience any problems.\n\nAnd thanks to the early buyers who posted reviews!  Nostalgia listened and thanks to you I have a really nice unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3623, "id": 41604, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 560, "len_tokens": 681, "text": "It does what a dishwasher is supposed to do - wash the dishes.\n\nIn case you've never owned a portable dishwasher before, it goes like this - you hook it up to the sink with a tube that pumps water to the dishwasher and then pumps dirty water back into the sink. Mine came with a special part you hook up to the faucet. You plug it in, load it up, add some soap and let it run. There's slightly more steps than a normal under-counter dishwasher, but it's smaller and thus there's more room.\n\nHowever, it's worth noting that this thing is bigger than a microwave. If you're going to put it on a cart, a microwave cart probably won't be big enough.\n\nI've only used the 'rapid' cycle, as other people seem to recommend, and it's worked great. There's no leaking and no mess - except if you're careless about disconnecting the sink hookup, but that's to be expected. It's like when you turn off a garden hose and lift it from the middle, water still in the hose is bound to come out the only way gravity will let it.\n\nIt doesn't seem to have any kind of sound muffling so it's a bit loud. Not too loud to run in the middle of the night with neighbors sleeping one room over but it's no gentle hum either. It's heavy too, I nearly hurt myself getting out of the (huge) box it came in. Neither of these are enough to overshadow the performance and general convenience though.\n\nI've read a lot of bad reviews about this thing. I've come to the conclusion that the majority of them come from people who have never used a portable dishwasher before. Having owned a larger model myself, I knew the basics of what to expect. As with any plumbing that comes partially 'pre-assembled' you need to tighten and adjust everything to avoid leaks - machines put these things together most of the time, not people. You check the seals, the general quality of the product and watch over it the first time you run it. Just in case. If something goes wrong the odds are that it was used improperly.\n\nAll in all, I'm satisfied. It works well and I don't have to do the dishes by hand anymore.\n\n[UPDATE] - December 30, 2010\nI still stand by everything in my review. This thing is a great convenience. I haven't had any leaks, malfunctions or trouble.\n\n[UPDATE] - August 20, 2011\nA year later and still working like a dream. If it starts to smell inside, just run a cycle with a little bleach and it'll take care of that. If some build up starts to happen around the seal, just wipe it down with a sponge. Both of these things can happen with any dishwasher, so it's not a big deal.\n\n[UPDATE] - October 6, 2011\nMinor (stupid) user-end issue today. A chopstick was poking into the seal when I closed the door. It still locked closed and I didn't notice the chopstick sticking into the seal until one of the rinse cycles started. A lot of water leaked out. I caught it almost right away and it took about 20 minutes to clean up. There was no damage to property or the dishwasher though. Still totally recommend it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3624, "id": 43999, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 625, "len_tokens": 694, "text": "If I was rating this ice machine purely on meeting advertised performance it would get a five, but I feel that I have to take one off for design. As advertised, it makes ice quickly and reliably. We use it in our bar/theater room, most generally for a few hours in the evening about three times a week.\n\nWhat's not evident from any of the sales literature is that the machine works by pumping water up from a lower reservoir to the freezing tray in the top. The tray dumps the ice into a basket above the reservoir. As the cubes melt, the water drops back down into the reservoir to be reused. As you use ice, the water level in the reservoir drops. There's no cooler for the ice compartment, just the one that runs the freeze tube during an ice making cycle. If you leave the machine on all the time, it cycles every few hours as the ice cubes sitting in the basket melt down enough to trigger the low ice sensor. That means that you either leave the machine on all the time or you have to plan a party about half an hour ahead of time in order to have any ice on hand. It takes about an hour and a half of continuous running in order to fill the ice bin. The machine, while not overly loud, makes too much noise to be left on during movies. A full hopper is good for about half a dozen full size mixed drinks; each cycle is good enough for about one and a half to two drinks depending on how much ice you like. As some have noted, there's a strong plastic smell about the unit similar to how the inside of a new refrigerator smells. I was put off at first until I discovered that the ice cubes didn't have any plastic flavor to them. It stands to reason that that if you can smell the plasticizers than they are in the water as well but I couldn't detect it. No idea whether the plastic compound in question is the suspect Bisphenol A that has everyone tossing their plastic water bottles. In any case, the smell is fading over time which means that there's less of whatever it is causing the smell in the water.\n\nWhat it needs, and doesn't have, is an internal clock to turn it on at a certain time every day. That way it could start making ice in the afternoon and be ready by evening. Instead it has a timer that can be set to count down a certain number of hours and minutes before it starts. That means that you have to know ahead of time if there's going to be a gathering and you have to remember to go to the machine and set it to start counting down. That's often pointless because it's already evening and you need it to start making ice right away.\n\nAn external timer's no good either. The control panel is computerized rather than hard switched so it resets to off when external power is removed.\n\nA quirk to be aware of is that you can't put ultra pure water in the machine. It relies on a certain amount of minerals in the water to provide conductivity for the proper functioning of the water level sensor. If you put in ultra pure water in the attempt to get perfect ice that won't impart flavors to your drink, the machine will just sit there thinking it's low on water.\n\nIn short, good ice at a good price. It's just a shame that all the computing power of the front panel is wasted by not having a clock programmed in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3625, "id": 45147, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 555, "len_tokens": 664, "text": "I have REALLY enjoyed making ice with this machine!\nThe water hopper holds about 3/4 gallon of water (to the fill line), the ice hopper holds (as a guess) 2-4 cups of finished ice. Once the ice hopper is at its fill point, it will stop making ice until either you empty the hopper, or it melts on its own. It is NOT a refrigerator or freezer, so the ice will eventually melt back down and drip back into the water hopper if you don't remove it. If the machine runs low on water, it will also stop until more water is added. There are red lights that indicate which is needing attention, the ice to be removed, or the water to be filled.\n\nThis thing does really crank out the ice. Once my ice hopper is full, I dump my ice into a gallon \"zip-lock\" bag, and toss it in our chest freezer (the ice is drippy at this point). I usually dump the ice 2 times into the bag, and it settles nicely into the freezer. When we take a bag out to bring into the house freezer, we thump it on the workbench, the ice is nice and broken apart into its cylindrical shapes, and into the ice cube box inside they go.\n\nSomeone asked me what it has done to our electricity bill. I never thought about it, as it isn't a huge concern I want ice and I can almost guarantee it's less than what you would spend on bags of ice from the store. We use it once a week to stock up for the following week. This may be something to think about if you will be using it frequently.\nAlso, the \"noise\" someone complained about I was a little nervous about. It's not any more noisy than a desktop computer turned on, or a refrigerator running (it's a running fan sound). When the ice dumps, well, it sounds like ice hitting plastic, but I would hope that's to be expected. I used it once at night and it didn't keep me awake. The kitchen is 20 feet away from our room. I won't use it again at night, only because the ice hopper fills up so quickly, that me getting up every 3-4 hours is out of the question.\n\nThe reasons I did not give it a 5 star rating are:\n1.) MINOR issue (if this was the only issue I would have given 5 stars), is in a beverage the ice does not last nearly as long as store bought ice, or ice made with an ice maker in a freezer.\n2.) A little more of an issue, there is a slight \"off\" taste. I tried with our tap water and also store bought water, There was no difference. I add about half to one teaspoon of lemon juice to a gallon of water, and the taste is masked. I will try with no lemon juice in about a month, and see if there is any change.\n\nI did buy a 2 year appliance plan ($16.00) based on another review of the fan going out, and I knew this would be a primary ice maker for us. I thought for the price, if something happened, it would be well work the 16 dollar protection.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3626, "id": 47358, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 511, "len_tokens": 633, "text": "I have had this unit for 2 years now. It replaced the ubiquitous Electrolux/Frigidaire/Kenmore basic washer which didn't hold up well and had to be replaced at 9 years.\n\nI like the electronic controls. The end-of-cycle bell could be louder (whereas my old E/F/K was so loud I would go to another room and close the door to avoid being near it when it went off). It washes well. Plenty of settings to chose from. I L-O-V-E the very high speed spin; the clothes come out almost dry. It takes about 1 hour for a permanent-press (almost all I ever use) wash cycle, but then it only takes 15 minutes in the dryer (which costs a --LOT-- more per minute to run so a huge net energy savings) to finish the load, so its all good.\n\nI like that it has a sump drain/cleanout panel in the front in order to remove wayward pocket stuff. I dissolved 2 pennies and a nickle for 2 years in the pump of my E/F/K unit because you had to take it apart to get stuff out of the pump once it got in there.\n\nI like the direct drive motor, which (should) last a long time and need little maintenance compared to a traditional \"motor off to one side and power transferred by a belt\" construction. It is pretty quiet even in high speed mode.\n\nIf I have one complaint, it would be that this unit can never make up its mind when enough water is let in. Instead of just opening the water intake valve and letting it run until enough water triggers a \"shutoff switch\" [like every other washer I have ever seen], this unit makes a meal out of it. Open Close. Open Close. Open Close. Open Close. Oooooooooopen Close. Open Close. Open Close. Open Close. Enough already! Heaven help you if you try to take a shower at the same time! It probably takes 5-7 minutes to get the water in, and considering frontloaders don't use anywhere near as much water as toploaders that is inexplicable to me. [stipulated that if you have a full load it is reasonable to have to add water 1 or 2 times early in the wash as the clothes soak it up - but this is probably 30 cycles or more!] Plus I am afraid it will wear out too quickly (or worse yet burst the inlet lines and soak my basement) with that perpetual banging open and closed on the water valve.\n\nPeople [primarily those who've never actually used one] complain about it being \"hard to empty\" a frontloader but I find it easier to roll wet clothes out of the front of a frontloader than to have to reach way down inside a toploader and have to lift wet clothes out from around that big Maypole thingy in the middle. Additionally, I have a small stool that I sit on when loading/unloading the unit. Plus its fun to watch a frontloader run; try and get entertainment out of a toploader!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3627, "id": 49149, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 481, "len_tokens": 616, "text": "This review is current as of 9/10/2016.  I have asked Amazon review team to look into the product description as some of us are receiving 10 lint traps and some are receiving 20 lint traps.  Actually, they come 2 in a package so a 10-pack technically is 20 lint traps.  I ordered from a prominent Amazon seller on this site and received only 10 lint traps and the brand was Home-Aide.  I took a magnet to the filters and the magnet stuck to them, indicating they were not aluminum, or at least had a quanity of other metal.  I returned them without opening the plastic wrapper.  Return was easy, and I chose a credit to my account.  For this I give Amazon customer support 5 stars.  I do not wish to name the vender, as this may have been an oversight, or a fix will be shortly under way.  However, this is an ongoing problem. Do you want 20 filters or 10?  Do you want Helping Hand or some other brand? I leave it up to you to decide.  The same day of the return, I took a chance and reordered from a different Amazon vendor  Epeak.  Epeak did not disappoint.  Epeak rushed me 20 genuine Helping Hand lint filters that came 2 filters per pack, a total of 10 packs.  These filters were from Helping Hand and said Faucet Queens on the back of the package. Yes, they are distributed and marketed by FaucetQueens and look just like the package that is displayed on this site. I took a strong magnet to them and they did not stick to the magnet.  So no rust here. So these are the real deal.  I'm glad I stuck to my gut feeling and listened to the feedback of the other reviewers that Helping Hands was an excellent deal.  So I give Amazon 5 stars,  Epeak 5 stars, Helping Hand 5 stars, and the old vendor a tip: 10 packs means just that - 10 packs of  2 each.  Now what do I think of Helping Hand filters?  A great deal.  I'm glad I got them.  These are for those who have a side tub that the drain hose goes into.  These are a decent length, the hole size is good and the quality is good.  Each 2 pack had 1 plastic tie that goes in each package.  I'm glad I bought these, and recommend that you do the same, and thanks for the heads up on this issue.  Also remember this is part of your ongoing maintenance as they eventually fill up with lint and need to be changed out.  Here's another tip: Get a water alarm- the Glentronics BWD-HWA Basement Watchdog and let the sensor end dangle into your washer tub about 2 inches.  That way if your tub ever backs up you'll get a good loud warning.  Hope this helps :)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3628, "id": 49363, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 515, "len_tokens": 633, "text": "This hood really moves some air.  I didn't find installation of the device itself to be particularly troublesome, though there were some spots that weren't overly compatible with my cabinets (that's no fault of the manufacturer, just something I should have measured) and the ductwork was troublesome to install (again, that's on me and my house).  Once installed, the thing is nicely quiet at low speeds while still moving a decent amount of air, and really clears things out at high speeds while still being quieter than even the low speed of the old microwave \"vent fan\" that just pushed air around the kitchen.\n\nThe hood itself is great for the most part, but there are a few things about it I didn't like so much that I docked it a star:\n\n- The buttons don't always respond to a quick press even when it \"clicks\", which is infuriating when you're frantically turning the fan up in the kitchen after you've forgotten to turn it on and set off the smoke alarm.\n- The relays are kind of noisy (this is, obviously, a bit of a nitpick).\n- The recessed bulbs (MR16 GU10 halogen or LED) are a little hard to remove, especially once they're greasy.\n\nIt's otherwise a really great unit that we love, and it does its job admirably.  A few things to be aware of before buying it:\n\n- Like any high-capacity vent hood, you probably need a make-up air unit to compensate for the air being sucked out of your house so it doesn't get sucked in through your furnace vent instead.  In my case, our old house is leaky enough that it wouldn't have made a difference, but once we get the leaks plugged (since that has direct implications on our utility bills), we'll need to install one.  It can be a bit of a task.\n- If you're tempted to replace the halogen bulbs with LEDs to reduce the energy use or increase their lifespan, make sure you pick ones that dim nicely.  The ones that we tried (from Triangle) didn't have much of a difference between dim and bright, and had noticeable 60 Hz \"ghosting\" when on the dimmer settings; it was bad enough that we're back to the halogens for now.  We'll try some others.\n- When you install it, if the fan seems to be scraping against the metal, make sure it's all the way on its post; ours shifted in shipping and I thought there was something defective or damaged about the unit, but it turned out that I just needed to shove it back on so it was on center.  It should spin freely and quietly when it's correct.\n- This unit generally requires a hard-wired branch circuit, so make sure you can provide that.  You could theoretically wire-nut a power cord to it, but that's for chumps.\n\nAll in all, I really love this unit with the exception of some minor annoyances that I'm willing to get past.  If you have a high output stove, you should absolutely consider this one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3629, "id": 49841, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 493, "len_tokens": 612, "text": "I purchased the EdgeStar CRF320SS for a small apartment after looking at all the other brands and models. I loved it! The freezer compartment really freezes, it has light inside the cooling compartment, and it also looks nice. Then, after one year and 7 months, it simply quit cooling and freezing. The electric current still goes to the condenser, but nothing is working.  It is like this with all compact refrigerators.  They just won't last long.  Now that I read reviews on other brands like Frigidaire, I notice consumer reviewers have said the same thing.  So much for \"durable goods.\" (I talked to the floor sales guys at Homie Despot and Lowe's and they insisted it is otherwise.  Perhaps they ought to be more conscientious and look into this.)\n\nMost manufacturers of compact 4.5 cu. ft. and smaller refrigerators offer a one year warranty, as EdgeStar does. However, EdgeStar only offers a 90 day warranty and then only one year on \"certain parts,\" which appears to be the weak link with this thing. If you get this, you had better also buy the extended warranty, but be clear an extended warranty starts after the 90 days, not the one year.  So the warranty will be in force for only 15 months.  Other manufacturers of compact refrigerators also say they offer a *5 year* warranty on condenser parts (such as Vissani, which I'd guess is not really any better than this EdgeStar). If the condenser breaks down, then EdgeStar will say nothing but to take it to an appliance repair service who are willing to fix it.  But then, of course, one would will pay more for that repair than the initial cost.  Perhaps those manufacturers who offer a 5 year warranty on condenser parts have good reason to be confident in their refrigerators not breaking down, otherwise they wouldn't offer the warranty.\n\nIt is clear to me at least these compact refrigerators are sort of like cheap toaster ovens, or car stereos and other electronics, that are mass produced in factories with cheap labor. It's cheaper to throw them away and buy a new one than to have it fixed -- so no one fixes them!  Interestingly enough, the customer service representative at Compact Appliance from whom I bought the unit did say in a moment of honesty in the conversation that compact refrigerators cost more to fix than they're worth.  If he had said that to a customer when he was in his sales mode he would never sell any of these things!  So, if you want a smaller compact refrigerator, this one is as good as most, but don't expect it to work for much more than a year of constant use. If you just want something you will use occasionally for a college dorm room, an RV, or a houseboat, etc., this one is fine. Meanwhile, the large ancient tank of a refrigerator downstairs is still going strong.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3630, "id": 50546, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 516, "len_tokens": 623, "text": "This is the second time I have ordered this dishwasher alert via Amazon.  It serves its purpose well and is simple and streamlined.  I had to order a second one because somehow the first one broke.  It was a while ago, so I don't remember exactly how it broke - we might have dropped something on it and the bottom slide piece broke off (see picture), or it may have broken on its own from the stress of using the slider, I cannot recall so I will not place the blame on anyone.  It was kindof disappointing how easily it broke, though, so I long resisted getting a new one since $6-and-change feels like a lot to pay (twice) for a little flimsy piece of plastic.  Alas, the desire to know the state of one's dishes without having to open the door has prevailed, so I forked over the dollars.\n\nBoth of the dishwasher alerts were black, despite the one in the picture being white.  I would have liked a white one, since I have a white dishwasher, but oh well.  I put it on the top of the door and it is visible, but not gaudy or anything.  If you have a dishwasher that has buttons on the top or the door is recessed, then you would have to put this somewhere else.  I wish it didn't say \"Dishwasher Alert\" on the slider because it distracts a bit from the words \"Clean\" and \"Dirty\" and because a plain black slider would look much more slick.  I will probably take a sharpie to it and color over it.  As previously mentioned, the slides can easily be busted, so be careful.\n\nThe sticky tape is one time use only and it only includes one strip, but if you need to relocate it, all you have to do is get new double-sided tape.  The tape that it comes with is strong and secure so I never had to deal with it detaching or anything, but it was easy enough to remove when it came time to replace it.  The tape left some sticky residue behind but it came off with water and strong wiping (it should come right off with some Goo Gone).  Since this was on the top of the dishwasher and is under the counter where we do all our food prep, there was some gunky stuff that had collected underneath the alert and in the gaps, but it all wiped off also.  The major thing of note is that the tape left a yellow rectangle on the top of the (white) dishwasher that was still visible after everything had been cleaned (see picture).  This discoloration might be bad if you are renting or for whatever reason decide to remove the alert.  Thankfully, I was just replacing it with another alert.  I don't know how this discoloration might affect a black or stainless steel dishwasher, so take heed!\n\nOverall, it is just plain useful.  Not having one for a while was a total #firstworldproblem, but now I am back in the land of luxury.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3631, "id": 50841, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 526, "len_tokens": 636, "text": "We received and installed this unit 09/11/2008, after several weeks of careful research of multiple brands, models and features on the internet.\n\nThis unit was a replacement for a Thermador stainless \"steam machine\" dishwasher, purchased new and used, by both us and renters, since 1980, though with 2 motor replacements. Both Themador motor replacements were performed personally (much lower cost), due to failure of the upper motor shaft seals letting soapy water get out of the wash chamber into the motor.\n\nWe have been impressed with how extremely quite the Bosch unit is, much quieter than the high-end Thermador 1980's vintage machine; the Bosch unit is actually somewhat difficult to hear running most of the time, in a quite house, and my hearing remains quite good by audiometry.\n\nIt does an excellent wash job; with rinse agent of course.\n\nBecause the unit does not use extra heat (and energy) to dry the dishes, it does not warp plastic cups, utensils, etc. like most dishwashers do. On the other hand, because plastic items do not retain much heat, they also do not dry in locations which retain water; a minimal nuisance; just be sure plastic items are in position to gravity drain - of course this applies to all items.\n\nAdditionally, because the unit does not use extra heat to dry the dishes, it does not pour out lots of humid air into either the cabinet space or the kitchen like most dishwashers do.\n\nThe easy pull out and separable utensil baskets can be placed anywhere on the bottom shelf. This, combined with multiple other both flexible and durable lower and upper rack features, has made this the easiest dishwasher to pack with items which we have seen.\n\nGiven the extremely quiet operation, the door status display with states current operation and time until complete has been quite helpful.\n\nGiven the very low energy and water usage, plus low noise level, we don't mind running it less than fully packed on occasion if waiting for a full load is inconvenient.\n\nThough we expected to utilize the delay start feature, as we did with the 1980 Thermador unit we replaced with this one, we have ended up not using delay start feature, largely because the unit is so quite.\n\nAddendum: Over two years later:\n\nThe unit continues to work well, no service problems.\n\nWe had a lot of Cascade powder, used until we finally ran out about a month ago. We noted that Bosch specifically recommends tablets, not powdered detergents, and one obvious problem we noticed with the powders, perhaps more-so over time, was streaks of powder in some place and on some dishes, obviously representing problems with the powder not dissolving before being adequately rinsed away.\n\nSince finally running out of powder and switching to the tablets, the powder streaks are no longer present.\n\nThe older powders clearly etched clear glasses, producing a hazy which would could not remove. Only clear glass items make this evident.\n\nThe newer tablets claim to not have the etching problem, at least not to the same degrees. I cannot comment until or unless we get some new clear glasses for comparison.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3632, "id": 51494, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 585, "len_tokens": 668, "text": "My husband and I live in an apartment with no washer or dryer. For a year we've gone to a laundry mat with no A/C every week and spend $25-$30. I finally had enough when I saw a homeless man eating out of the trash inside the laundry mat just a few feet from me! I went online that day to look for a small washer and dryer that would work with a 120 v outlet. I kept seeing Haier brand and read all the reviews and decided to purchase them from home depot which was the best price with free shipping and the most well know website. To sweeten the deal Home Depot had a discount offer at this time that got us $25.00 off our purchase which made the price cheaper than the other websites. Yay! We were happy so far.... Even better we got the washer and dryer in less than a week and both at the same time. The dryer hook up required us to purchase a 30\" x 24\" piece of plywood ($30.00) and the exhaust kit ($12.00). My husband used a piece of the plywood to mount in the window to connect the exhaust. Installation took about 30-45 minutes to mount the dryer on the wall and connect the exhaust. Hooking up the washer was super easy just connecting some hoses to the bathroom sink. When we put the first small load in the dryer and set the timer all seemed to be working. After about an hour I had almost two more loads washed but when I checked the dryer (which had turned off) the clothes were hot and still very wet. My husband checked the lint tray (it was clean) but when he checked the exhaust vent there was no air coming out at all.... I called customer service right away and explained what happened. I was told it will take 48 hours for a repair company to call me and set up an appointment. I begged them to send someone sooner since I had 3 loads of washed clothes and no way to dry them. The customer service representative apologized and said that's the best they could do. I was very upset that the brand new dryer I bought wasn't working and I had to wait at least two days to get a call back. I had to hang my clothes all over my house for 24 hours to dry them. The next day I called the repair company and explained what happen and was told that I was scheduled for Wednesday and it was Monday. I begged once again and she sent the repair guy out that same day, only a few hours after we spoke. The repair guy had it working in no time at all. He said the belt connected to the exhaust fan was overly greased and the fan itself was stuck and he had to turn it loose. Afterwards the dryer was working great blowing out the exhaust and drying my clothes normally. Other than that hiccup with the dryer in the beginning the dryer fits and dries medium sized loads in about an hour, of course jeans and towels take a bit longer but I am very happy with my purchase. Haier dryer:$239.00, Price per YEAR to use:$45.00, Not wondering who dried their clothes in the dryer before me and watching a homeless man eat from the trash while sitting in a laundry mat for over 2 hours: PRICELESS!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3633, "id": 52496, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 503, "len_tokens": 607, "text": "Do not buy the GE Cafe Stove/Range!!!  Nothing but problems..... I wish there was an option for zero or no stars!\n\nI bought the GE Cafe all gas range in May.  First time I used the oven, it shut off automatically.  No error code displayed - just the digital clock was illuminated.  This same problem occurred over and over again - at 350, 375, 400, and 425 degrees.  Sometimes it would shut off in the pre-heat cycle, but mostly while I was baking or cooking dinner.  Incredibly frustrating and a few baking recipes were ruined.  Repair Technican came out - said needed new control panel.  But the panel was back ordered.  GE replaced the stove under warranty at the end of June.\n\nWe were away for all of July and August.  Started using the new range beginning of September.  This 2nd GE Cafe stove is even worse than the first one - this range has 5 problems.\n1)  This oven also shuts off automatically while trying to bake something in the oven.  Cancel button has not been touched - often goes off when I am out of the room - so I know it wasn't accidentally stopped.\n2)  All six knobs across the front have melted - they all need to be replaced.  But I wonder if the replacements will melt as well in the future???  I have never broiled - and GE thought I had this problem because I had broiled something.  Realistically - I should be able to broil without the knobs melting!\n3)  One of the burner knobs turns on whenever you touch it - you don't have to push it in to ignite the pilot - it turns on with a mere touch - very dangerous as it can be turned on without you realizing it.\n4)  The oven door does not line up properly - there is a larger gap on one side compared to the other\n5)  Gas leaks out of one of the top burners - even when the indicator knob is in the 'Off' position!  So we now have the stove disconnected because we don't want gas leaking into the kitchen and house.\n\nGE wants to repair all the problems.  But the Control Panel is still on back order and won't be here until the middle of November - it was ordered on Sept. 17th.  So I don't have a working oven until the middle of November and that is only if it arrives on time - they won't guarantee arrival of the back ordered part.\n\nThe valve to stop the gas leak is supposed to arrive at the end of next week - so another week without a stove or cooktop.  Can't run the gas because it leaks until new valve is installed.\n\nI wish I had never bought this stove.  And I am not the only person experiencing these problems - many others have documented the same issues.  Why doesn't GE fix this before they keep selling this defective model to unsuspecting customers???", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3634, "id": 52547, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 421, "len_tokens": 602, "text": "god, I hate this thing!  Although this is supposed to be a washer review, let me just say I hate the dryer (or, as I call it, \"the wrinkle machine\") as much if not more!\n\nThis is not an indictment of front loading machines.  I purchased early models of Maytag front loaders, and for years, and was thrilled with them.  If I could afford it, these Whirlpool Duet bad boys would be out on the curb in a heart beat.  They are beyond worthless and destructive to my very expensive clothing and linens.\n\nI realize this is anecdotal evidence...just my experience.  First, thing I noticed was that family laundry that used to take me about half a day, now took all day.  WEIRD.  Maybe these were more efficient  and ecologically friendly.  BUTTTTT, My colors were fading out.  My towels didn't feel good.  For the first time in my life, my heels were dried out and cracking. Ok, so it took me a while to figure out that, at least, all the soap wasn't rinsing out.\n\nI wound up doing an experiment today....didn't start out that way.  Had a huge load of towels to do.  (and, NO I didn't overload the drum)  Used All Free HE.  ( AND, before you jump on ALL as an issue...have had same issues with Tide, All N Hammer, etc.) There are 4 lines on the little detergent cup.  Three lines really close together and then a 4th about a quarter of an inch up.  If you believe the ALL people, I should use line 4 for a maximum load.  I'm a cynical individual, so didn't use that line;  didn't even use line 3; went between line 2 and 3.  Gotta have \"some\" soap...yes?\n\nHappened to walk into laundry room during rinse/spin.  Suds were rinsing out.  Let cycle finish.  Flipped over to Rinse/Spin cycle.  30 minutes, wow, to rinse and spin.  Fewer suds, but water still not running clear.  Did it again.  Fewer, but still some suds.  OK...so that's one wash, then two additional rinse cycles.  After I finish writing this, am going to go do another.\n\nI don't even own the exact same model as this review, but I googled \"I hate Whirlpool Duets\"  Found this discussion and Found this:[...]\n\nIf you go down to the last post, it's just hysterical.  Guy who has a Used Appliance business.  Needs to fix things and then resell them, started getting a flood of Duets.  Couldn't find anything wrong with them.  People just dumping them.  I think says it all!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3635, "id": 53316, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 470, "len_tokens": 635, "text": "The set was purchased as a gift for me by my husband in an effort to make laundry easier (larger capacity = less loads) and be more effecient - it uses 1/3 the amount of water my un-he top loader did.  He purchased the wfw9200sq elec. dryer as well.\n\nWhile it was being delivered from Lowe's the installation man told me \"be ginger with the doors, they break a lot, but a lot less than they used to.\"  Okay.\n\nThe machine worked great for 5 days, then at 6am with much laundry to be done, I pressed power, put in a load, added the soap to the cheap plasticky soap dispenser (which I figured would be the first thing to go on the machine) and BEEEP BEEEEP BEEEP!!!!!  F 26 flashes on the machine three times.  So, I tried again.  BEEEEP  BEEEEP BEEEP  F 26.  Then I unplugged it.  Then I tried it again.  Then I called Whirlpool who said to unplug it.  Which I did.  BEEP BEEP BEEP F26.\n\n \"What does that mean?\" I ask..\n\n\"Don't know\" she said.  \"Never heard of F26 coming up on a display.\"\n\n The she said they would dispatch someone in ONE WEEK.  I explained that would not do, this machine was only a few days old.  They gave me a priority service call (which I did not pay for) and the guy came the next morning.\n\nHe showed me a combination of buttons to push to get into some diagnostic mode to remedy the issue but assured me this was a fluke and would not happen again.\n\n\"What does F26 mean?\"  I asked.\n\n\" It's a door thing\", he said, \"but it's no big deal.  Won't happen again.\"\n\n\" Why doesn't the phone-in customer service guy tell you the button combination and save the service call?\"\n\nI ask.\n\n\"Don't know\" he said.\n\nHe leaves and literally 20 mintues later... BEEEP BEEEP BEEP F26 error.  I tried the diagnostic code trick.  Still with the \"F26\" error.\n\nThen I tried to call the service man on his cell phone 3 times and he didn't answer.  Then I called Whirlpool.  They said they could send someone..... in ONE WEEK.\n\nI went back to Lowes that day and asked that it be returned.  I got a whirlpool cabrio top loader (thinking I would avoid the front loader door problem altogether) which was close to $1000 cheaper -- it is extremely loud, but no operational problems with it so far.\n\nBottom line, maybe I got a lemon, but 5 days of regular use and the thing blew up.  It was quiet and did clean the clothes nicely and spun them almost dry so that the dryer need not run excessively.  But I still wouldn't recommend it.  $2500 for the pair is a lot of money.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3636, "id": 53576, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 522, "len_tokens": 651, "text": "KITCHENAID RANGE COOLING FAN\n1.  This KitchenAid cooling fan starts blowing as soon as the oven is turned on, and runs until the oven is turned off, or the convection mode cool down completes.\n2.  This range cooling fan exhaust area is 8\" above the floor and 27\" long and reaches at least 5.5 feet out from the front of the range.\n3.  Anyone in the kitchen while this KitchenAid oven is in use, is subject to a \"breeze\" on lower legs and feet.\n4.  The KitchenAid fan exhaust breeze may not be as aggravating in cooler weather, but possibly will be a major issue in warmer weather.\n5.  Based on friends with competitor ranges, this KitchenAid cooling fan is louder, more annoying, and distracting than those models. We had to increase the volume of the TV in the kitchen to compensate for the fan noise.\n\nAfter using the oven just once, we told the dealer that we wanted to exchange it for a different manufacturers' range.  We would not recommend that this KitchenAid model be considered.\n\nKITCHENAID RANGE CONTROL PANEL\n1.  This KitchenAid control panel design is awkward and inconvenient. The front panel is tilted at a shallow angle, close to vertical. This makes the panel more difficult to observe and operate when cooking at the range top or using the oven. In order to adequately observe and correctly use the control panel, you have to stand back from the range or bend down/crouch down each time.\n2.  This KitchenAid control panel is located directly above the oven door. With the oven in use, opening the oven door, allows moist, hot air to billow out and up onto the control panel. Moisture condenses on the panel...and drips onto the floor.\n3.  Yes, you could wipe off the control panel to control condensation every time that you open the oven door, but this increases the opportunity to touch a control point and accidentally modify a setting.\n4.  A reasonable person could question what effect continual exposure to steam and moisture will have on the useful life of the panel and its electrical components.\n\nPOTENTIAL  SAFETY  ISSUE - Easy to accidentally turn \"on\" the controls.\nThe shallow angle of the KitchenAid control panel (there's that panel issue, again) positions the top cooking element control knobs very close to where you will be leaning when you reach up to an overhead cabinet. It is very easy (critically easy?) to contact the cooking element controls - push one in - and turn the knob into the \"high\" position with a slight twist of the upper body...and have a burner heating up quickly. We were in the preparation stage (nothing in the oven or on the top cooking elements) when my wife reached into an overhead cabinet for something - turned slightly to the side to place it on the countertop - and accidentally turned on a cooking element. It is frightening to imagine what could have happened to a cooking magazine, cook book, food carton or towel placed on that cooking element had we left the kitchen area for even a short period of time.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3637, "id": 53626, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 488, "len_tokens": 614, "text": "my first email...\n\nHello,I am so mad right now!!!Here I go and spend over 2000.00\n> on a new Frigidaire Refrigerator and Gas Stove\\Oven and half a year later\n> the stove is rusted.  The metal burner grates were not painted on the\n> bottom.  So any liquid that got under neath them caused them to rust.  So\n> now, not only are the bottoms of all the burners rusted.  The top surface\n> of the stove's painted has been damaged where the rusty burner grates\n> were sitting and it is now rusted.  Basically, I either have have to\n> repaint the bottom of the burner gratess and the top of my cook top.\n> (This will require much time prepping the surface and I will have to\n> purchase the heat resistant paint.)  Or,  Frigidaire the company is\n> going to step up and help me out.  So which is it going to be?\n> Regardless of whether to help me or not, please tell your engineering\n> dept. to start coating the entire burner grates, not just the bottom. I\n> would love to talk on the phone with someone.\n\nand they reply saying they are sorry and are going to send me new grates.  THey suggest I great them with vegetable oil so they don't rust.  see below...\n\nIf you notice the bottom of your grates are rusting the bottom surface on cast iron grates is deliberately unfinished to allow high carbon gases, present in iron, to escape during the manufacturing process.  If the gases were trapped it would cause surface blemishes in the enamel finish and increase chipping.  To eliminate or minimize rust from forming do not allow grates to stand in water for long periods of time.  After washing dry the grates thoroughly to prevent rust oxidation from forming.  You may also coat the bottom surfaces of the grates with a vegetable oil, or a non stick cooking spray (remember to wipe off excessive oil before placing on range).  There may be a slight amount of smoke from any excess vegetable oil residue left on the grate when the burner is first used again.  We would like to apologize for any inconvenience you are experiencing\n\nWell they send me two grates in the mail.  I have to reply and ask for two more.  They send me one.  I reply a 3 time asking for the fourth.  Pathetic.\n\nI am so disappointed in this stove and the customer service in regards to making it right.  How dare you suggest that I have to treat the grates with oil to keep the from rusting!  If you would have done some better testing and engineering then I would not have to do anything.  Sure, you can send me replacement grates.  But that isn't going to take care of my stove top which is likely to keep rusting regardless of my new grates.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3638, "id": 53837, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 558, "len_tokens": 658, "text": "The GE Profile Induction stovetop is everything I was looking for. Easily cleans with a paper towel and Windex, 100% controlled temperature, evenly cooks, heats up FAST!, in less then a minute completely boils water, looks beautiful with any decor and our pots and pans stay clean on the bottom because no flame is constantly hitting it. Under supervision, I use one piece of paper towel under the pot when cooking to catch any spill overs and to just keep the ceramic top clean. Even on the highest setting surprisingly the paper towel never burns. Amazingly The stovetop doesn't get hot only the pan does and directly under the pan. It's truly like MAGIC!. I don't have to worry about flames catching anything or anybody on fire. It's perfect for the kids to cook. I will never use gas again! What a MESS gas stoves make and how ugly they are with big burners. What a pain to clean a gas stovetop, I will never go back to gas.\n\nHere's what to be careful of...\n\nNever cook without something in the pot because it can overheat the pot and blow out the fuse on the cooktop, according to the directions this can also permentenly break the cooktop. We are being careful of that. I can see how that can happen if something boils dry or burns and overheats. Just like cooking a pan on a flame with nothing in it would really mess up the pan and become over heated.\n\nWe are careful about not scratching the cooktop which really won't happen if you are gentle on how you put your pan on the ceramic. Just make sure there is noting under the pan that may scratch and it will be fine. We don't slide the pan on it, we just put it down gently and we also use a paper towel which we probably don't have to use but I feel better using it. No problems.\n\nThe only thing I noticed that bugs me once in awhile when cleaning is the control lock does not stay locked, but that's no big deal. it's just a pain to clean over the lock and the on/off buttons.\n\nOne thing to beware of is NEVER use tin foil directly under a pan when cooking, it will melt the tin foil and ruin the stovetop. Now a days for some reason foil melts when too hot. Yah I know, who would think but it's happing with all the new appliances and complaints are all over the internet. If heat is applied directly to tin foil it melts. It truly will ruin any appliance that this happens to. You can't get melted foil off without ruining the appliance.\n\nEDIT 6/26/2013\nStill LOVE my Cooktop! No problems at all, no scratches, it still looks as good as new, and I figured out the problem with the lock button for cleaning the top without the touch pad turning on was because of me (user error).... I didn't know how to do it and thought there was something wrong with it, theres nothing wrong with it, the problem was that I was not holding down the lock button long enough to lock it. You need to hold it down for a good minute before it locks and to unlock it the same thing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3639, "id": 53839, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 456, "len_tokens": 603, "text": "This cook top is every thing I had hoped it would be. I was replacing another 30\" cook top, so all I did was open the breaker, check to see if the circuit was dead, broke the old connection, popped-out the old cook top, dropped-in the GE, reconnected the wiring, closed the breaker, and that was it.  One note, if you downloaded the instructions beforehand: a couple of times the instructions make bold note that if you have aluminum wiring, then you need Al to Cu connectors.  Yep, but the COOK TOP has Al wiring, so if you have Cu wiring you need special wire nuts.  A simple, online check with Lowes or Home Depot, or a call to a local appliance store, to check availability and get three wire nuts for an Al to Cu connection.  For those with a science acumen, it's the galvanic action between the two, dissimilar metals that will cause corrosion--some will, incorrectly, say it's electrolysis, but that requires an electrolytic solution.\nA few reviews as to cookware seem moot.  If one doesn't know what magnetic induction is, perhaps one should read-up on it before considering this item.  I recently changed cookware to Le Creuset Tri-Ply because I needed new cookware and had induction cooking in mind, also.  This is excellent cookware.  Lesser cookware will work on this cook top as long as it's of a ferrous material--stainless steel or cast iron.  However, the performance of this cook top using this cookware is outstanding--much better than my ancient experience with gas.  Amazing!\nAs for the 40 amp power requirement, when I popped the old cook top out, I noticed that the power rating was virtually the same as the GE one.  This cook top ran for years on a 30 amp circuit.  It should have been a 40 amp circuit, but the good ole boy electricians--I'm being generous--in rural East Texas used a 30 amp circuit and the old cook top never tripped the breaker.  Induction cooking has to use less power than an electrical resistance cook top.  Yes, induction and resistance are related, but using electrical resistance to heat has to be right up there with a wood-burning stove as to inefficiency.\nShort version.  Get this cook top and some Al to Cu wire nuts.  You'll have no buyer's remorse.\nBTW, instead of paying out the nose for an induction plate (hob) for use with your non-ferrous cookware, just get a cast iron griddle--preferably one without the built-up ring on the bottom. You're have to deal with the high specific heat, and resulting \"thermal battery\" of cast iron, but you won't need to use it that much. It's something that you'll probably want to have, anyway.\n\nOne year later: Outstanding!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3640, "id": 53867, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 580, "len_tokens": 671, "text": "We put this freezer in our basement. The only outlet we had was a GFI, so I read the manual to see if there was any reason not to plug it into a GFI. There was nothing about plugging the freezer into a GFI in the manual. (For those of you who don't know GFI is, it is the type of outlet you have in your bathroom to create a shorter circuit so that when you drop your hair dryer into the sink you don't die. It's a circuit breaker, just at the wall instead out at your circuit breaker box.) And after putting a little food in it and going on vacation it tripped the GFI. We lost about $500 of food and we can't get the awful smell out of it. And here is where the story begins....\n\nGE support sent a technician out to look at our freezer. He confirmed the awful smell, and plugged it in to see if if was running (and it was). He told me that I shouldn't plug it into a GFI. When I told him there was nothing in the manual he understood why I was upset. A day later GE support called me back to tell me that they would give us a \"deal\" of $167.50 for a new freezer (plus a shipping fee). They then informed us that we had 30 days to accept their offer (even with eight months left on the warranty) and that it was their final offer. They said that it wasn't covered because it was plugged into a GFI. I explained that the manual said nothing about GFI. They said that the manual says you have to plug it into a regular outlet. After some back and forth I asked the tech if he knew what a GFI was and he fully admitted that he didn't. I asked for his manager, which turned out the be the manager who made the decision. After talking with her a while I asked her if she knew what a GFI was and she immediately admitted that she didn't know. I got the customer service from Ultimate Electronics (where I got it from) involved). Finally GE technical support admitted that they weren't technical and would have an engineer call me. The tech who came out to us called me and we had a very short conversation because we understood each other, and, more importantly, he understood why it should be replaced. Ultimate called GE on my behalf, but they wouldn't give us anything more than this offer. The offer didn't include their shipping fee which would make it more expensive than what we originally paid. The very friendly and helpful Ultimate representative didn't know what to do to help me but they were more than willing to do what they could. A GFI won't trip unless there is a power surge from a device plugged into it. The only thing plugged into this GFI outlet was the freezer.\n\nSo we lost $500 worth of food and have a ruined $200 freezer after a couple months of use because GE won't stand behind their product. So we'll go out of our way to avoid buying any GE products after how much this $200 freezer cost us.\n\nBottom line, I hope you never have to call GE if this freezer fails. GE Support Case #10260539. Honestly, this is the worst customer service I think I've ever had.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3641, "id": 53936, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 548, "len_tokens": 640, "text": "I live in an apartment and, although we have a laundry room, there is only one washer and dryer for 8 units, it's downstairs and I had to hoard quarters (6 per load).  I finally got tired of sharing with the neighbors and having such a small window of time to do laundry (i.e. not while I'm at work, not after 10pm, etc).\n\nI looked at washer/dryer combos a couple of years ago and didn't see anything that looked worth the cost.  When I tried again a few weeks ago I came across the LG and was pleasantly surprised by the mostly positive reviews. I spent a LOT of time reading reviews and researching the LG so I was pretty familiar with the pros and cons of the machine by the time I got it.  I was able to order it online while it was on sale and used an additional 12% off coupon that made the price more palatable.  It also let me spring for the titanium version that I just like the looks of.\n\nI've had the unit for about a week now and I am extremely pleased with it.  After a couple of trips to the hardware store (casters, a mixer/y hose and a quick release adapter for the faucet) I was up and running within minutes.  I'm on the second floor and am very surprised at how quiet this machine is.  It actually makes less noise than my dishwasher and, since the neighbors have never complained about that, I'm assuming I'll have no problems with the washer. I was also worried about it dancing across the floor on its wheels (since my designated shopper bought casters without locks and I was too impatient to go exchange them) but I park it on my kitchen rug and it stays in place, no problem.\n\nAn entire load takes less time than I expected (after reading some reviewers complaints) and the clothes are perfectly dry once you pull them out of the machine and let them air for a couple of seconds.  I have noticed that items come out more wrinkled then they do in a conventional dryer but, for me, that's a small tradeoff for the convenience.\n\nI put a load in yesterday before I went to work and set the timer to finish about the time I get home.  I walked in the door to the pleasant scent of clean clothes and hung them up - very nice. I expect that I will be doing this most days so the additional time to run a load won't make any difference for me. Also, the added benefit of not having to be home to transfer the load from the washer to the dryer means I can truly set-and-forget my laundry.  I am loving this!\n\nOne minor complaint is the child-lock. I don't have children and would prefer to be allowed to take my chances opening the door once the load is complete or on a whim mid-cycle. It would be nice to be able to disable this 'feature'.\n\nAll in all, if you've done your research and understand the limitations of this machine (smaller loads, longer cycle times, more wrinkles) and still want one I think you will be very, very pleased with it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3642, "id": 54725, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 528, "len_tokens": 653, "text": "My dishwasher is over 14 yrs. old and still running great, but the top rack had alot of damage to the vinyl and resulting rust.  I didn't realize there was a repair product like this, and it should have been addressed long before the rack was so far gone.  Nonetheless, it seems to have done a good job, although I just did it a few days ago so don't know how long it will hold up.  I think one would definitely get the best results if it was used at the first sign of rust or damage to the vinyl coating.  Also, if you do have alot of areas to be repaired, DEFINITELY get more than one bottle.  In fact, I may order a second bottle to go over the areas again (I was stingy w/ the second coat because the bottle was almost empty), as well as touch up some minor cracks in the vinyl coating of the lower rack, not yet broken or rusted.  Another thing that makes it difficult to repair large areas is the fact that it clumps up very quickly.  I had a jar of paint thinner right there to dip the brush in in order to keep it pliable during use...also recap and shake virgorously often during use.  Even if it doesn't last a long time, it defintely improved the looks of my rusted rack, and it keeps the rust from transferring to your dishes.  The cost is minimal and well worth it in my opinion, even if it's only a temporary fix.  In addition, the company (RusSan Enterprises) was SUPER about fast correspondence, fast shipping and great packaging.  I give it 4 stars rather than 5 because of the fact that it clumps and thickens so quickly, it makes it hard to get full use of an entire bottle.  However, based on initial results and the overall dramatic improvement in the looks of the damaged rack, I WOULD DEFINITELY RECOMMEND THIS PRODUCT AND THIS COMPANY!\n\nUPDATE:  As of November, 2010, the majority of the repairs to my dishwasher racks were still holding nicely from my initial repair job using this product. Some of the most badly damaged areas....large areas that were very badly rusted, almost completely through the wire in places....were just starting to show rust through the applied product, but I think those areas could've been fixed up again with another application.  We moved in Nov. 2010, so I won't know for sure just how long the repairs lasted....perhaps longer than the old dishwasher itself. This is an amazing product!  As I said in my initial review, if repairs would be done at first signs of rust/damage, the results would be even better (nicer looking, for sure, and lasting longer without the need for reapplication).  But, in my experience, it also worked on badly damaged racks, certainly worth a try if you're trying to eek out more use from a dishwasher that still runs but has damaged racks (new racks are quite expensive, more than what the old dishwasher was worth in my situation).  Again and still, I highly recommend this product....quick, inexpensive fix for damaged dishwasher racks!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3643, "id": 55039, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 468, "len_tokens": 608, "text": "For those who have used those ineffectual microwave oven/range hood combos, you will find this Broan AP 130 fan/hood with recirculating kit a God-send.  Your house is cleaner and your fabrics do not retain kitchen smells.\n\nI used a triple-filtered recirculating Broan Microtek hood/fan system for about 10 years, and found it acceptable for its nonvented application.  This newer AP130 hood and fan seems to work even better with the Broan recirculating kit.\n\nFirst, the fan.  The highest setting is certainly less noisy than most vacuum cleaners, and I can hear the TV and people speak from short distances.  I do not mind 10-15 minutes of this fan operating on high at dinner time to keep my apartment free from a lot of grease and cooking odors.  It does not affect my hearing or annoy me especially.  Lower speeds of course, go down to an almost whisper setting.\n\nI seem to think the non-vented technology is a bit better, even though it is the same triple filter as the older Microtek, the 88F available at many on-line filter outlets.  First the air hits the standard aluminum grease trap filter.  Then the air goes through three layers of material, including a charcoal impregnated one.  You must keep changing the three-layer filter often depending on how often you cook smelly, greasy food, from three months to a year.  Each pair of the 88F filters cost around $30 when bought on line. so it is a cheap alternative to a dark greasy ceiling, cabinets (inc. handles) and walls.  Besides the whole home smells better over the long term.  Installation of the filters takes less than 30 seconds, once you become familiar with the process.  Of course, the aluminum grease trap filters last indefinitely.  Do not put the latter in the dishwasher unless you do not mind the discoloration from the detergent.\n\nThe AP130 hood itself is tall and deep, giving a great stainless steel dimension to the kitchen decor.  I also bought the Broan SS backsplash which completes the look of the AP 130 and the NDK35830SS recirculating kit for nonvented installations.  The two LED lamps work well at high, however the ones I bought have a high-frequency \"vibration\" on the lower setting.  No problem there as I just keep it on high.  If I need a night light in the kitchen, I use the refrigerator on-door water dispenser light.  Yes, it is a bit awkward to find the controls hidden under the hood, but it makes the kitchen hood look cleaner without clutter.\n\nI am very happy with this unit with the optional recirculating kit.  Of course, I wish I had ductwork and an exterior wall for my kitchen fan to exhaust the air outdoors.  In that absence of that ideal solutions to kitchen odors, this is the next-best thing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3644, "id": 55332, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 468, "len_tokens": 610, "text": "For those who have used those ineffectual microwave oven/range hood combos, you will find Broan AP 130 hood/fan with recirculating kit NDK35830SS a God-send.  Your house is cleaner and your fabrics do not retain kitchen smells.\n\nI used a triple-filtered recirculating Broan Microtek hood/fan system for about 10 years, and found it acceptable for its nonvented application.  This newer AP130 hood and fan seems to work even better with the Broan recirculating kit NDK35830SS.\n\nFirst, the AP130 fan.  The highest setting is certainly less than most vacuum cleaners, and I can hear the TV and people speak from short distances.  I do not mind 10-15 minutes of this fan operating on high at dinner time to keep my apartment free from a lot of grease and cooking odors.  It does not affect my hearing or annoy me especially.  Lower speeds of course, go down to an almost whisper setting.\n\nI seem to think the technology is a bit better for the recirculating kit, even though it is the same triple filter as the older Microtek, the 88F available at many on-line filter outlets.  First the air hits the standard aluminum grease trap filter.  Then the air goes through three layers of material, including a charcoal impregnated one.  You must keep changing the three-layer filter often depending on how often you cook smelly, greasy food, from three months to a year.  Each pair of the 88F filters cost around $30 when bought on line. so it is a cheap alternative to dark greasy ceiling, cabinets and walls.  Besides the whole home smells better over the long term.  Installation of the filters takes less than 30 seconds, once you become familiar with the process.  Of course, the aluminum grease trap filters last indefinitely.  Do not put the latter in the dishwasher unless you do not mind the discoloration from the detergent.\n\nThe AP130 hood itself is tall and deep, giving a great stainless steel dimension to the kitchen decor.  I also bought the Broan SS backsplash which completes the look of the AP 130 and the recirculating kit for nonvented installations.  The two LED lamps work well at high, however the ones I bought have a high-frequency \"vibration\" on the lower setting.  No problem there as I just keep it on high.  If I need a night light in the kitchen, I use the refrigerator on-door water dispenser light.  Yes, it is a bit awkward to find the controls hidden under the hood, but it makes the kitchen hood look cleaner without clutter.\n\nI am very happy with this unit with the optional recirculating kit.  Of course, I wish I had ductwork and an exterior wall for my kitchen fan to exhaust the air outdoors.  In that absence of that ideal solutions to kitchen odors, this is the next-best thing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3645, "id": 56899, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 604, "len_tokens": 676, "text": "Our dryer blew the thermal breaker and stopped running. Ordered the parts and it was recommended that the vents be cleaned to alleviate the overheating condition and avoid a vent fire. Found my kit at Lowe's and purchased it there. All of the parts are very well constructed. Heavy plastic adapters, and well made brush pieces. Rods were flexible enough to bend into a U shape. Used the small long brush to do the duct work inside the dryer. Do NOT use the rounder shorter small brush! Attached it to one rod and carefully worked it into the screen slot. Moved it up and down and back and forth to clean out the slot. Then removed the long brush and attached the short round brush to a rod using the enclosed set screws. Went to the back of the dryer and ran this brush in and out several times twisting by hand. Used a vaccume to suck up the loosened dust and lint. No issues. My vent has one 45 degree turn going in then a straight 14 foot run to the outside. NO VENT SHOULD HAVE A 90 DEGREE TURN!! If your vent has a 90 degree turn it is installed incorrectly and should be reinstalled correctly according to code. With the small short brush still attached to rod one I worked it into the vent opening and pushed it by the first bend. No problem. I pushed the rod in manually while turning slightly as I went by hand. When I had most of the rod in the vent, I added another rod. Worked this into the vent and repeated without incident until all 4 rods were attached and I felt the brush pop out the end of the line. There is a drill attachment included with the kit. Its part of the obstruction cleaner. Leave the C shaped piece off and attach the shaft to your rod end and chuck it in your drill. If you can turn the torque setting down on your drill so if the brush gets hung up it will not damage the tool. Start slowly and work up to a slow to medium speed. Do not run the drill at high speed! So not use a large drill! Do not ever run the drill in reverse!! I attached my DeWalt drill, and turned the torque setting to 3. Starting slowly with all 4 rods attached I gave it power until it started spinning. I moved the brush in an in and out motion while I drew out the rods one by one and removed them as I went. No problems. I had a short 5 foot section of flex pipe to connect from the dryer to the vent. I temporarily connected this and ran the dryer. Checking the vent outlet with a piece of tissue on a stick I had great air flow and a ton of dirt and debris came out of the line. Although it shows that you can run the cleaner brush through the flexible piping, do not attempt to do it. Its not worth the time to attempt to hold the pipe correctly and work the tool. You'll never get all of the lint and debris out of the tons of little creases anyway. for a few bucks, replace the flexible pipe. I replaced my flexible pipe with a new one, and put the dryer back into position ready for a load to dry. Its important to actually read the instructions, they are there for a reason and cover all of the issues buyers have complained about that should not have happened.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3646, "id": 57039, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 491, "len_tokens": 627, "text": "I had not cleaned our dryer duct in 22 years!  I know, my bad.  It is 26' long (mostly horizontal), with 4) 90deg. bends (not including the 2 elbows in the vent pipe which connects the dryer to the wall), so it is far from the \"ideal\" vent system.\n\nI had noticed that clothes were taking too long to dry in our Maytag gas dryer, so I did what has worked in the past - I replaced the coils on the gas valve, and even threw in a replacement operating (cycling) thermostat (which had never been replaced).  I did my normal cleaning of the internals of the dryer, including the filter housing; but still the dryer ran too long.\n\nI looked into the outside dryer vent hood, and saw quite an accumulation of lint in the pipe, so I ordered this kit, plus the set of 4 extra rods, due to the length of the duct.  When the kit arrived, I began by attaching a shop vac to the inside end of the vent, and using the brush on a cordless drill from that end.  I used a dust collector drum between my shop vac and the vent, so that the shop vac would not get clogged up.  That worked great by the way!  Anyway, I was able to clean out the 1st 5' of the duct, including 2) 90deg. bends, but that's as far as I could get, the brush was up against an obstruction of some sort.\n\nWhile the shop vac was running inside, I went outside and could not feel any suction at all at the vent hood, so I knew I had a major blockage.  I left the shop vac running inside, and started using the brush from the outside.  I encountered 2 more 90deg. bends just inside the house, then a long straight run.  I slowly added rods until I had 7 rods in the duct, where I hit the blockage I had encountered from inside.  It would not budge.  Since it was closer to the inside end, I went back inside and put the blockage removal tool on the end of the rod and started adding rods while still using the shop vac from the inside.  I captured the clog and pulled it back to the inside.  It really resisted going around the 2) 90deg. bends, but I got it out in one piece.  It was a hard-packed ball of lint, oval in shape, about 10\" long!  Altogether, we removed over 10lbs. of lint from the duct!\n\nAfter the clog was gone, I used the brush from both ends again to be sure that the entire run was clean.  Now, when the dryer is on, the 3 flapper doors on the outside hood stand straight out, and the dryer runs for a much shorter time!\n\nI am a technician by trade, and have several mechanical hobbies.  I appreciate well-designed tools.  This kit is EXCELLENT!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3647, "id": 57884, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 520, "len_tokens": 637, "text": "I am replacing a older dryer with a front loader that mounts on a 15\" pedestal.  Because of the additional height, I had to move the wall dryer vent up about 15\".  In this home, about 10 years old, the vent is a 4\" galvenized pipe that runs up an interior wall and vents through the roof, about 17 feet.  In all of my previous homes, the vent was straight out a concrete wall and only about 8\" long.  After I cut the duct, I noticed quite a bit of lint in the pipe.  Since I had just purchased this home, I don't know if the accumulation was just \"normal\" or if the previous owner had just not been consistent in cleaning the dryer lint trap.  It was much easier to clean the vent now rather than pull out the dryer later so I order this cleaning system.  I had to order the extension kit because I needed more than the 12' of rod included.  The quality of this product is excellent and it comes with the best manual I've ever seen for such a simple and inexpensive product.  The manual clearly shows how to use the system in different situations.  The vacuum adapter fits inside the 4\" duct and attached to my shop vac. Virtually no dust was observed during the cleaning.  A port in the adapter allows you to run the rod and the brush up the vent, attaching additional 3' rods as needed.  The instructions say to tighen each joint with pliers and then tape them so they won't come apart if you accidently have the drill set to counterclockwise rotation.  I followed the instructions, but unless you are a total klutz with a drill, you probably don't have to do this.  Even so, tighening and taping and undoing took very little time since there are only a few joints.  I had my wife start and stop the vacuum as I connected the rods and worked the brush up and down the duct with the whole process requiring less than 15 minutes.  I opened my shop vacuum when I was done and was surprised at the amount of lint in there.  The manual (and my new dryer manual) caution that if your wall-to-dryer ductwork is either vinyl or thin foil, you should replace it with the semi-rigid flexible metal ductwork readily available at big box hardware store.  I wasn't aware of this before.  The vinyl and perhaps the thin foil ductwork cannot contain a duct fire.  The thin metal ductwork is nice and flexible but the flexibility inherently reduces the diameter of the duct resulting in less air flow and perhaps longer drying cycles.  More importantly, when you look inside you see that the coils are big lint collectors.  I don't know if I will ever use this system again as I am older and probably won't be pulling the dryer out unless I have to.  But if I have to, I will clean the duct while I'm there.  Great to see such a product like this that is easy to use and does what it says.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3648, "id": 57990, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 497, "len_tokens": 690, "text": "This is an excellent and easy to use product.  The whole process from taking parts out of the box to cleaning everything and packing it back took me 30-40 minutes with the cleanup taking the longest.\n\nI knew that 12' of flexible rods that come with the LintEater Dryer Vent Cleaning System would not be enough for my application, so I bought an extension pack from the local Lowe's that had the best price for LintEater extensions.  I used the total of six rods, which is 18' and I had about 1.5 foot from the drill to the vent and about 1 foot came out on the other side.\n\nThe manual says that you can clean the vent from the outside or from the inside.  I decided to go from the inside thinking that the brush would push loosened lint outside like it looks in the picture on the product page.  I used the supplied shop-vac attachment to minimize mess, and it worked well.  There was a little lint that the brush pushed to the outside, but there was about 2 gallons of lint in my 5 gallon shop-vac (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Vacmaster-VWM510-Wall-Mount-Wet-Dry-Vacuum-Powered-by-Industrial-2-Stage-Motor-with-Remote-Control-5-Gallon-5-Peak-HP/dp/B001O6RA6Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Vacmaster VWM510 Wall Mount Wet/Dry Vacuum Powered by Industrial 2-Stage Motor with Remote Control, 5 Gallon, 5 Peak HP</a>).  I also pulled a half of a lizard from the vent, but I could not find the second half even after running the system through the vent one more time time.\n\nThe manual suggests using a cordless drill with a clutch, I am sure to avoid damage to your duct, but my cordless drill's battery was dead, so I used a corded drill and it worked fine.  You must be sure that the drill is set to turn clockwise or the rods may disconnect inside the duct.\n\nEveryone's project will be different, but I strongly suggest using a shop-vac to minimize the mess.  Lint looks solid when it is stuck inside the dryer vent, but it becomes very dusty when loosened.  I also found that although it is tempting to connect all rods from the start, it is not convenient to use the system with too many rods outside the vent because you end up standing with the drill too far from the vent and the rods create a slack and then twist together similar to how a twisted rope would twist together when you fold it in half.  I started with two rods and connected each next one when all but 5\" of the system had disappeared in the vent.  Additionally, the shop-vac attachment is designed for a 2\" hose, and the manual does not recommend using smaller diameter hoses to avoid clogs, but my shop-vac has 1 1/4\" hose, so I used duct tape to seal the hose against the shop-vac attachment and the 21' hose did not get clogged.\n\nOverall, this is a great product and, if you want to clean your dryer vent, I suggest you give it a try.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3649, "id": 58198, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 520, "len_tokens": 648, "text": "We purchased this Emerson Ice Maker at an actual brick and mortar Target store--AFTER reading these excellent reviews on Amazon.com.\nWe needed it THAT day, and did not want to wait for shipping time.\nHowever, I must admit, I never even knew that an appliance like this was in existence before seeing it on Amazon.\n\nMy husband's job keeps him outside all day in the summer, and he was \"buying\" two large bags of ice daily for his cooler, so that he can have necessary cold water bottles in the heat. Now I make him ice at home, not only saving money at the convenience store, but with much less hassle.\n\nI have encountered a couple of the same \"issues\" as other reviewers and have this short solution:\n\n1) If you are in a hurry, (altho this is not stated in the owner's manual), when the basket fills with ice before I get to it to take the ice out, and the red ICE sensor light comes on---just take the ice out (I store mine in zip loc bags in the other freezer)---and just touch the silver colored 1-inch long \"cold sensor\" with your thumb, and it warms it enough for it to immediately go back into the making ice cycle.\n\n2) About the low water signal--I just try to keep pouring water into it periodically, and keep the reservoir filled or semi-filled, so it does not stop making ice (with the red low water signal). It sits on my countertop between the microwave and the dish drainer, so it is no problem as I walk by it to glance over and see what is going on.\nThis unit makes at least TWO huge bags of ice in a day for me. (I transfer the smaller batches of ice to a big blue \"Large\" Zip-Loc 15\" X 15\" bag with handles, and then put it into the other freezer to \"harden\" and save.)\n\n3)  We do NOT feel that it is noisy as some have commented.  However, our kitchen/living room is a fairly large area, but still--my home Whirlpool side-by-side frig/freezer makes more noise than this little unit.\n\nThe shape of the pieces of ice are just like some that you find at Hotel ice makers--partially an egg shape, with a long cylinder hole in the middle. (By the way--our German Shepherd dog prefers these ice cubes to the other ones the Whirlpool freezer makes at home!!) It is a great shape, and seems to keep frozen for quite a while--Our two large bags stay frozen for over 14 hours on the job--in the sun--in 90-plus degree heat in just a standard cooler (NOT a 5-day cooler).\n\nWe LOVE this little family friend, and feel that we will make back the money that we invested in it THIS year--based on the amount of commercial ice we HAD been purchasing every summer.\n\nSo, we would HIGHLY recommend this very SIMPLE unit.  Not complicated at all.  It's one of those things that I said, \"Why did I not think about inventing this???\n\nHope you enjoy yours also as well!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3650, "id": 58217, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 530, "len_tokens": 651, "text": "After years of lugging those cold, heavy bags of ice around, and trying to make them fit in the freezer, and pushing stuff around any time I needed ice (I live in South Texas - I need ice all the time), I finally broke down and bought this high-rated ice maker.  I did my homework before buying, and this one sounded tops. I bought it at Target for $109.\n\nI absolutely love it!\n\nMine is not noisy at all.  When it drops the ice, it does sound like ice dropping into a basket (duh) and afterwards, you can hear the splash of the ice tray filling again.  Otherwise, all I hear is a gentle fan noise, which is a noise I like, especially when it's making me some ice.\n\nI got it home, thoroughly cleaned and rinsed the insides and dried it.  Waited half an hour per instructions and began making ice.  The first ice had a little bit of the chlorine-like/new plastic smell to it, but it tasted like frozen water - no bad taste whatsoever.  This is using water from an under-sink water filter system.  It recommends using distilled water - didn't have any.\n\nI put it on the largest size and it spit out 9 tiny little cubes in 11 minutes.  I was worried.\n\nIt was just getting started though!  The cubes got steadily bigger and more densely frozen with each batch.  Helpful hint:  Use cold water or put a few cubes of ice in the water well when you add water the first time.  This makes the unit colder faster and therefore more efficient. Do it both ways and you'll see the difference in the ice when you use cold water.\n\nI ran it for about 3.5 hours and got the equivalent of a big ole bag of ice.  I put the ice in quart-size baggies and they go just about anywhere scattered around in my freezer, as opposed to taking up a ton of room like those bags.  It's like getting a new freezer, too!  And I'll never buy ice again, or worry about my kitchen flooding while I'm at work because of refrigerator icemaker has gone awry.\n\nIt only stopped once - when the ice basket got full. I used the cute scoop (comes with) to clear the basket into a baggy, and pushed the power button and it started right back up.\n\nThe unit will make a LOT of ice before needing more water, but you can top it off at any time at all without disturbing the process.\n\nA wonderful kitchen tool; I now consider it a necessity!\n\nUPDATED JUNE 2012\n\nStill works perfectly.  Use it at least once a week and stockpile ice that is much tastier than nasty old freezer-made ice!\n\nUPDATED MARCH 2013\n\nI've never had one single moment of trouble with this icemaker and I still absolutely love it.  I did misplace the plug once.  Wrote an email to Emerson and got an entire new plug assembly for the cost of shipping ($5).  I can't imagine why so many other reviewers are having trouble with theirs.  Mine is perfect and has been in use for years now.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3651, "id": 59067, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 517, "len_tokens": 617, "text": "I didn't buy my Electrolux Slide-In dual fuel convection range thru Amazon. I bought a Sears Elite dual fuel range. But it was made by Electrolux.\nNo matter what model you are looking at, you need to find out if the oven light is an old fashioned appliance bulb, or the new halogen bulb. In every model I've looked at since the oven bulbs in mine burned out, they have all been the halogen type.\nHere's why:\nYou should know if you buy this model, or any model of gas or electric or dual fuel range built by Electrolux that when the oven light bulb burns out, it will cost you anywhere from $44.00 to $66.00 to buy the halogen bulb, depending on the model.\nThis is because Electrolux or who ever supplies the parts requires you to buy the complete light assembly which includes\nthe bulb. Or it could mean that since the complete assembly must be purchased, the complete assembly must be replaced each time a light bulb burns out. That would mean a service call at a cost of $150.00 to $200.00 to replace a light bulb. And if light bulb(s) continue to burn out each year, my 2 burned out within the first year, this could be an expensive maintenance item that the customer should be able to do themselves for just the cost of an appliance bulb.\nThe halogen bulb simply pulls out of the ceramic base which would indicate that only the lamp needs to be replaced.\nEither Electrolux or the parts supplier is trying to gouge the consumer by requiring them to purchase an expensive part that isn't needed to get a relatively inexpensive part that is needed, or there is something wrong with the light housing assembly requiring the complete thing to be replaced each time a light burns out. I can't get an answer to this because I can't find anyone at Electrolux dealers or Electrolux part supliers or the Electrolux company who can or will answer the questions. And I've tried for over a year and a half now.\nI would seriously consider buying a range where a light bulb can be replaced with a bulb instead of the convoluted and\nexpensive process that Electrolux presents it's customers with.\nAlso, the electronic control panel went out within 10 months. After it was replaced, the oven temperature was 25 degrees lower than the control panel setting. I called the service tech back. He said there wasn't anything they could do unless the temperature difference was greater than 35 degrees, because the oven has up to a 35 degree adjustment that can be made in the control panel.\nI like the look of the range. I love the dual fuel. But I detest a product that is so poorly designed that a simple thing like a light bulb replacement(it's one of the only things that the customer can do themselves on the new ranges)is turned into an expensive hassle for the customer. And I really don't like a company who won't even respond to your questions.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3652, "id": 59696, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 491, "len_tokens": 633, "text": "I purchased a Bosch washer (model WAS20160UC) and dryer  (model WTV76100US) set in December 2011.  This is the experience I have had with the Bosch appliances.  It is a vented dryer, not the condensation model.  This review is mostly about the dryer.\n\nPros:  Stylish (witch makes no difference since the dryer is so poor)\n\nCons:  This dryer takes very long to dry even small loads.  It  will get warm but not hot.  A Bosch technician measured the temperature of the dryer at 122 degrees Fahrenheit.  But, he informed me that this was normal for this dryer.  In one test; two bath towels, two hand towels, and one facial towel were washed in the washer and rinsed on maximum spin to remove as much of the water as possible.  It took the dryer 1hr. 20 min. to dry the load.  After many phone calls and 3 or 4 service calls, they replaced the dryer.  It performed as poorly as the first. So, I called an electrician to really find out what was going on.  With freshly washed towels in the dryer, he observed the dryer drawing 10 amps (about the maximim rating) for 15 to 20 seconds.  Then it went down to 5 amps for about about 30 seconds (he described it as half heat) then down to room temperature air coming out of the exhaust for another couple minutes.  It repeats this cycle.  At no time does the dryer actually get hot enough to remove the moisture from the load.  It mostly just uses ambiant temperature air to dry the clothes.  If touch the clothes in the middle of the load, they mearly feel slightly warm. While it is not practical for most people to use a clothes line, I think it would be just as effective as this dryer.\n\nThe thing that bugs me the most about this whole debacle is this:  Both Bosch and the appliance store had the attitude that I should just accept the poor performance because it is a European design.  I heard many excuses defending an appliance that I truly believe they KNOW does not perform as it should.\n\nIf you buy a coffee maker, do you expect it to make coffee in about 15 minutes?  If you buy a blender, do you expect it to blend what you put in it?  Well, when you buy a DRYER, you kind of expect it to actively dry.\n\nIn fairness, this washer/dryer set may be suitable for a single person who does small loads of laundry.  You can expect a small load to take 60 minutes to wash and 80 minutes to dry.  So you are right around 3.5 to 4 hours for two small loads.\n\nUpdate:  The appliance store has taken back the Bosch washer and dryer.  I have replaced them with a GE unitized washer/dryer (model GTUP240EWH)  This dryer completely dried the same load in 30 minutes.\n\nI hope this review is helpful for you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3653, "id": 59753, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 529, "len_tokens": 664, "text": "My hope in writing this review is to keep someone else from making the mistake of purchasing this dishwasher.  We built a new home in 2009 and purchased a complete set of Electrolux appliances, spending over $12,000.  For the most part we are pleased with the performance of the other pieces, but they haven't been \"trouble free\".  Back to our worst mistake, this DISHWASHER!  I could write a book on the \"error\" numbers, which were sometimes valid and sometimes \"no problem found\".  We had problems with a horrible smell, mold inside, and water leaks under the unit.  We burnt through the standard 1 year warranty, and even though the unit had problems from day 1 Electrolux did not offer much assistance.\n\nAfter another \"leak\" under the unit I began to research the problem and learned quickly we were not the only ones having issues.  I read about a \"repair kit\" Electrolux was installing on units still under warranty.  I made one final call to the 800 number and asked to speak with a Manager.  I reminded her that we had spent over 12K with their company and this dishwasher had problems from day 1.  She authorized a repairman to install the kit at their expense.  I had high hopes the problems would finally be resolved.... but the problems were only starting.\n\nLeaks under the unit finally stopped, but the smell, and intermittent \"errors\" continue to occur.  I even went as far as replacing the control panel at my own expense ($300) since I read this could cause the intermittent errors.  It did not resolve the problems.  We finally came to a conclusion this dishwasher model is junk, and we needed to bite the bullet, and throw away a 5 year old $1,300 appliance.  Being a typical husband, I kept stalling on spending the money... and that was my biggest mistake.\n\nWe started the dishwasher and left our home for a couple hours.  Upon returning and opening the front door I could hear the now infamous \"error beep\".  There was a stranger noise I didn't recognize... somewhat like Niagara Falls.  I entered the kitchen to find water flowing across our hardwood floors and the dishwasher still running.  I made the mistake of opening the door on the dishwasher, in an attempt to turn it off, to find the unit completely full of water.  I ran to the garage and killed the power, but the water kept flowing.  I dived under the sink to reach the valve for the dishwasher and killed the water supply.  This was a new issue, the inlet valve stuck open!  The water had found a route downstairs to our walkout basement by running through the opening for the downdraft under the center island.  I used my Shop-Vac to suck up over 200 gallons of water from downstairs alone.  Our only saving grace was that end of the walkout was not finished yet.  My wife and I agreed the Electrolux dishwasher would never be turned back on.  Today I installed a Bosch!!!!!  The dishwasher from hell is headed for the dump.\n\nUnless you have a fetish for pain and suffering DO NOT PURCHASE THIS DISHWASHER!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3654, "id": 59870, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 543, "len_tokens": 629, "text": "I have been pleased with all Kitchen Aide items I purchased in the past, and wanted a double drawer dish washer for my newly remodeled kitchen 5 years ago. My husband and I looked into purchasing this model. At the time, we could find only 2 dishwashers that had double drawers and couldn't find any reviews on either one. Taking our past experience with Kitchen Aide appliances into consideration, we purchased this. We are glad we didn't write a review within the first year. It started out great, although within the second year, our problems started. The dishes weren't coming clean and the drain basket kept popping up. Naturally, my husband thought I was putting the utensils in upside down causing the handles of the utensils to be part of the problem. After having 2 separate plumbers look at this and not being able to locate why this was happening, my husband wanted to purchase another dishwasher, one that didn't have drawers. I insisted I loved the 2 drawer dishwasher but he knew better. As time went on it took longer and became more difficult to get clean dishes. I opted to try liquid detergent instead of powder. This eliminated the problem of soap residue on the dishes & glasses, but it wasn't long before other problems started to happen.  Once again, the dishes weren't coming clean, although this time is was not because of soap residue(the water was hot enough but for some reason many times the dishes looked as dirty as when they went into the machine) and a double wash cycle had to be done. Over the next 3 years problems turned into nightmares with more and more things going wrong. The settings weren't working properly, the water was remaining in one or both of the drawers after washing was finished, the drain baskets were popping up more and more frequently, and the blade wouldn't rotate past the drain basket. Fixing it almost every time the dish washer was used, my husband once again wanted to purchase a new dish washer but again, I loved my 2 drawer option and insisted on continuing to empty water residue out of the washers when I had to and pushing the drain basket back into place. Last evening I changed my mind as I was now disgusted with my dishwasher. The water in the top washer looked like dishes sitting in a bucket of water. The blade wasn't turning and this time the water wouldn't drain at all. It was definitely the dish washer and not the pipes as the sink was fine. A once die hard Kitchen Aide purchaser, I began losing my faith in Kitchen Aide large appliances. I am now in search for a new dish washer. After coming across the reviews for this, I wish we had known before what I know now.  I am writing to let those who may want a double drawer dish washer to think twice before purchasing this. It is nice looking but that doesn't clean dishes & silverware! P.S. I give this 1 star for looks only, as for performance, I give this 0 stars!! Sometimes purchasing an expensive item doesn't always mean it is better as we found out with this.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3655, "id": 59916, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 543, "len_tokens": 677, "text": "I wanted to add my two cents since I appreciate this posting because it has helped me save my fridge and I have done a lot of research since then. The first thing you should do is a continuity check on the three compressor terminals to see if any of the leads are shorted together. If they are then you need to replace the compressor since the transformer windings are shorted. If the compressor is ok then its likely the Overload Heat Protect part which is failing likely because theres a design flaw with the part. I was able to remove mine then reinsert it to get the freezer to work again though it didn't work well (compressor kept turning on and off and when I replaced it the compressor is staying on). But it gave me enough time to order a new part. The part sells for less than $9 on ebay. Do a search for these part numbers since they will all work for the 110V part: 6750C, 4387913, 2154759, 4357207, 4387766, 4387836, ER4387913, AP3108669, PS371538, SZ4387766, 77600, 586521, AH371538, EA371538. The 110V part is cheaper (has the terminal in the center vs off to one side like the 110V part). Now the 220V part is cheaper (less than $1 each from China) and may work but I was concerned that it could draw less current than the 110V part needs but it could still work so you might want to try it. Do a search for this part number on ebay: R600A. If the Overload part isn't the issue then do a search for QP2-4.7 3 pin or 4 pin and they sell for under $4. In addition I was able to get the manufacturer to send me the two parts since the freezer was still under warranty (it was either that or ship the freezer out which would be a huge shipping fee). Happy hunting!\n\nUpdate on this. My freezer stopped working 1 week after I replaced the Overload Heat Protect part so I replaced the QP2-4.7 3pin Start Relay and its been weeks and its going strong. I also re-installed my old Overload Heat Protect part that I could shake and it made the shaking noise and it works fine. The diagnoses that a shaky Overload Heat Protect part shows you the part is bad is dead wrong. Its the Start Relay that was replaced which is defective and they are really cheap to buy (likely why the fail so often!).\n\nI actually still had the freezer under warranty but they said I had to ship the freezer to Canada at my expense. I asked them to just send me those to parts and I am still waiting for them..waiting Finally got a reply from them and they said they don't carry the two parts. If this is true, this means they aren't repairing anything. It is a SCAM since the parts are readily available and a huge percentage of their freezers have this defective Start Relay! I called them threatening to raise a class action law suit against them but could tell they aren't going to do anything because this is what the lady said. If anyone does sue them, count me in..", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3656, "id": 61070, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 520, "len_tokens": 622, "text": "Reading all the other reviews of this product......you have to blame the error of the customers and not the product itself.\n\nIf you have ever owned a Wine Fridge.....you know it is NOT a refrigerator....that is not its purpose. If the other reviewers wanted a beverage holder that was able to keep food in it or keep beverages below 40degrees....then they should have gotten a REFRIGERATOR...not a wine fridge/chiller.\n\nSo knowing that....let us give an honest and realistic review of this item based on what it was actually designed for.\n\nThis unit while not the highest frills of wine chillers is attractive with a stainless steel trim on the door and a glass front and a black body. The door is reversible and it has an internal blue LED interior light you can turn on/off depending on your mood. It does not have a Temperature indicator with a simple dial for temperature with MIN to MAX indicators. It is simple and attractive.....and given its price....thats to be expected. I purchased a suction cup thermometer that faces out and mounts to the interior of the glass door for like 2$.\n\nIt comes with 4 adjustable racks and the nice bonus of a bottom storage area rack that has not been present in other wine chillers I have purchased. It allows you to stack cans on the bottom on their side so they don't roll out.\n\nMy unit is new and I purchased it as it is replacing an old Urbina thermoelectric wine chiller that finally crapped out after 2.5 years (It was dirt cheap so no big whoop). We will see if this unit is the exception.\n\nLets be honest......these units don't tend to last more than 3 years on average so if you are worried about that a higher end unit may be to your liking....but you will pay a pricey premium for actual fridge-like beverage centers like GE's.....or just invest in a long extended warranty so you can be re-imbursed should it fail within 3 years (this is what I did).\n\nThis unit unlike my old model has an actual compressor and sealed coolant system which is a luxury at this price range....usually you are getting a thermo-electric cooling system at prices below 200$.\n\nI will update my review in the coming months but so far my unit on MAX is cooling better than expected with an average of 33F below room temp:\n(Current Results = Room Temp - 75F / Cooler Temp - 42F )\n* NOTE: Cooler is in a shaded corner away from direct sunlight...and this is also one of the 'newer' models in stores now.\n\nHopefully this informed and realistic review will help others. This is good unit for the price if you want a beverage chiller. It is similar to units they use at bars and convenience stores on or near the counter. Your beverages will be chilled but they will not be ice cold. Your white wine will be in the perfect temperature range (depending on the temp of your home or room)......which is exactly what this unit was designed for.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3657, "id": 61362, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 503, "len_tokens": 607, "text": "Do not buy the GE Cafe Stove/Range!!!  Nothing but problems..... I wish there was an option for zero or no stars!\n\nI bought the GE Cafe all gas range in May.  First time I used the oven, it shut off automatically.  No error code displayed - just the digital clock was illuminated.  This same problem occurred over and over again - at 350, 375, 400, and 425 degrees.  Sometimes it would shut off in the pre-heat cycle, but mostly while I was baking or cooking dinner.  Incredibly frustrating and a few baking recipes were ruined.  Repair Technican came out - said needed new control panel.  But the panel was back ordered.  GE replaced the stove under warranty at the end of June.\n\nWe were away for all of July and August.  Started using the new range beginning of September.  This 2nd GE Cafe stove is even worse than the first one - this range has 5 problems.\n1)  This oven also shuts off automatically while trying to bake something in the oven.  Cancel button has not been touched - often goes off when I am out of the room - so I know it wasn't accidentally stopped.\n2)  All six knobs across the front have melted - they all need to be replaced.  But I wonder if the replacements will melt as well in the future???  I have never broiled - and GE thought I had this problem because I had broiled something.  Realistically - I should be able to broil without the knobs melting!\n3)  One of the burner knobs turns on whenever you touch it - you don't have to push it in to ignite the pilot - it turns on with a mere touch - very dangerous as it can be turned on without you realizing it.\n4)  The oven door does not line up properly - there is a larger gap on one side compared to the other\n5)  Gas leaks out of one of the top burners - even when the indicator knob is in the 'Off' position!  So we now have the stove disconnected because we don't want gas leaking into the kitchen and house.\n\nGE wants to repair all the problems.  But the Control Panel is still on back order and won't be here until the middle of November - it was ordered on Sept. 17th.  So I don't have a working oven until the middle of November and that is only if it arrives on time - they won't guarantee arrival of the back ordered part.\n\nThe valve to stop the gas leak is supposed to arrive at the end of next week - so another week without a stove or cooktop.  Can't run the gas because it leaks until new valve is installed.\n\nI wish I had never bought this stove.  And I am not the only person experiencing these problems - many others have documented the same issues.  Why doesn't GE fix this before they keep selling this defective model to unsuspecting customers???", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3658, "id": 61413, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 421, "len_tokens": 602, "text": "god, I hate this thing!  Although this is supposed to be a washer review, let me just say I hate the dryer (or, as I call it, \"the wrinkle machine\") as much if not more!\n\nThis is not an indictment of front loading machines.  I purchased early models of Maytag front loaders, and for years, and was thrilled with them.  If I could afford it, these Whirlpool Duet bad boys would be out on the curb in a heart beat.  They are beyond worthless and destructive to my very expensive clothing and linens.\n\nI realize this is anecdotal evidence...just my experience.  First, thing I noticed was that family laundry that used to take me about half a day, now took all day.  WEIRD.  Maybe these were more efficient  and ecologically friendly.  BUTTTTT, My colors were fading out.  My towels didn't feel good.  For the first time in my life, my heels were dried out and cracking. Ok, so it took me a while to figure out that, at least, all the soap wasn't rinsing out.\n\nI wound up doing an experiment today....didn't start out that way.  Had a huge load of towels to do.  (and, NO I didn't overload the drum)  Used All Free HE.  ( AND, before you jump on ALL as an issue...have had same issues with Tide, All N Hammer, etc.) There are 4 lines on the little detergent cup.  Three lines really close together and then a 4th about a quarter of an inch up.  If you believe the ALL people, I should use line 4 for a maximum load.  I'm a cynical individual, so didn't use that line;  didn't even use line 3; went between line 2 and 3.  Gotta have \"some\" soap...yes?\n\nHappened to walk into laundry room during rinse/spin.  Suds were rinsing out.  Let cycle finish.  Flipped over to Rinse/Spin cycle.  30 minutes, wow, to rinse and spin.  Fewer suds, but water still not running clear.  Did it again.  Fewer, but still some suds.  OK...so that's one wash, then two additional rinse cycles.  After I finish writing this, am going to go do another.\n\nI don't even own the exact same model as this review, but I googled \"I hate Whirlpool Duets\"  Found this discussion and Found this:[...]\n\nIf you go down to the last post, it's just hysterical.  Guy who has a Used Appliance business.  Needs to fix things and then resell them, started getting a flood of Duets.  Couldn't find anything wrong with them.  People just dumping them.  I think says it all!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3659, "id": 62182, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 470, "len_tokens": 635, "text": "The set was purchased as a gift for me by my husband in an effort to make laundry easier (larger capacity = less loads) and be more effecient - it uses 1/3 the amount of water my un-he top loader did.  He purchased the wfw9200sq elec. dryer as well.\n\nWhile it was being delivered from Lowe's the installation man told me \"be ginger with the doors, they break a lot, but a lot less than they used to.\"  Okay.\n\nThe machine worked great for 5 days, then at 6am with much laundry to be done, I pressed power, put in a load, added the soap to the cheap plasticky soap dispenser (which I figured would be the first thing to go on the machine) and BEEEP BEEEEP BEEEP!!!!!  F 26 flashes on the machine three times.  So, I tried again.  BEEEEP  BEEEEP BEEEP  F 26.  Then I unplugged it.  Then I tried it again.  Then I called Whirlpool who said to unplug it.  Which I did.  BEEP BEEP BEEP F26.\n\n \"What does that mean?\" I ask..\n\n\"Don't know\" she said.  \"Never heard of F26 coming up on a display.\"\n\n The she said they would dispatch someone in ONE WEEK.  I explained that would not do, this machine was only a few days old.  They gave me a priority service call (which I did not pay for) and the guy came the next morning.\n\nHe showed me a combination of buttons to push to get into some diagnostic mode to remedy the issue but assured me this was a fluke and would not happen again.\n\n\"What does F26 mean?\"  I asked.\n\n\" It's a door thing\", he said, \"but it's no big deal.  Won't happen again.\"\n\n\" Why doesn't the phone-in customer service guy tell you the button combination and save the service call?\"\n\nI ask.\n\n\"Don't know\" he said.\n\nHe leaves and literally 20 mintues later... BEEEP BEEEP BEEP F26 error.  I tried the diagnostic code trick.  Still with the \"F26\" error.\n\nThen I tried to call the service man on his cell phone 3 times and he didn't answer.  Then I called Whirlpool.  They said they could send someone..... in ONE WEEK.\n\nI went back to Lowes that day and asked that it be returned.  I got a whirlpool cabrio top loader (thinking I would avoid the front loader door problem altogether) which was close to $1000 cheaper -- it is extremely loud, but no operational problems with it so far.\n\nBottom line, maybe I got a lemon, but 5 days of regular use and the thing blew up.  It was quiet and did clean the clothes nicely and spun them almost dry so that the dryer need not run excessively.  But I still wouldn't recommend it.  $2500 for the pair is a lot of money.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3660, "id": 62442, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 522, "len_tokens": 651, "text": "KITCHENAID RANGE COOLING FAN\n1.  This KitchenAid cooling fan starts blowing as soon as the oven is turned on, and runs until the oven is turned off, or the convection mode cool down completes.\n2.  This range cooling fan exhaust area is 8\" above the floor and 27\" long and reaches at least 5.5 feet out from the front of the range.\n3.  Anyone in the kitchen while this KitchenAid oven is in use, is subject to a \"breeze\" on lower legs and feet.\n4.  The KitchenAid fan exhaust breeze may not be as aggravating in cooler weather, but possibly will be a major issue in warmer weather.\n5.  Based on friends with competitor ranges, this KitchenAid cooling fan is louder, more annoying, and distracting than those models. We had to increase the volume of the TV in the kitchen to compensate for the fan noise.\n\nAfter using the oven just once, we told the dealer that we wanted to exchange it for a different manufacturers' range.  We would not recommend that this KitchenAid model be considered.\n\nKITCHENAID RANGE CONTROL PANEL\n1.  This KitchenAid control panel design is awkward and inconvenient. The front panel is tilted at a shallow angle, close to vertical. This makes the panel more difficult to observe and operate when cooking at the range top or using the oven. In order to adequately observe and correctly use the control panel, you have to stand back from the range or bend down/crouch down each time.\n2.  This KitchenAid control panel is located directly above the oven door. With the oven in use, opening the oven door, allows moist, hot air to billow out and up onto the control panel. Moisture condenses on the panel...and drips onto the floor.\n3.  Yes, you could wipe off the control panel to control condensation every time that you open the oven door, but this increases the opportunity to touch a control point and accidentally modify a setting.\n4.  A reasonable person could question what effect continual exposure to steam and moisture will have on the useful life of the panel and its electrical components.\n\nPOTENTIAL  SAFETY  ISSUE - Easy to accidentally turn \"on\" the controls.\nThe shallow angle of the KitchenAid control panel (there's that panel issue, again) positions the top cooking element control knobs very close to where you will be leaning when you reach up to an overhead cabinet. It is very easy (critically easy?) to contact the cooking element controls - push one in - and turn the knob into the \"high\" position with a slight twist of the upper body...and have a burner heating up quickly. We were in the preparation stage (nothing in the oven or on the top cooking elements) when my wife reached into an overhead cabinet for something - turned slightly to the side to place it on the countertop - and accidentally turned on a cooking element. It is frightening to imagine what could have happened to a cooking magazine, cook book, food carton or towel placed on that cooking element had we left the kitchen area for even a short period of time.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3661, "id": 62492, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 488, "len_tokens": 614, "text": "my first email...\n\nHello,I am so mad right now!!!Here I go and spend over 2000.00\n> on a new Frigidaire Refrigerator and Gas Stove\\Oven and half a year later\n> the stove is rusted.  The metal burner grates were not painted on the\n> bottom.  So any liquid that got under neath them caused them to rust.  So\n> now, not only are the bottoms of all the burners rusted.  The top surface\n> of the stove's painted has been damaged where the rusty burner grates\n> were sitting and it is now rusted.  Basically, I either have have to\n> repaint the bottom of the burner gratess and the top of my cook top.\n> (This will require much time prepping the surface and I will have to\n> purchase the heat resistant paint.)  Or,  Frigidaire the company is\n> going to step up and help me out.  So which is it going to be?\n> Regardless of whether to help me or not, please tell your engineering\n> dept. to start coating the entire burner grates, not just the bottom. I\n> would love to talk on the phone with someone.\n\nand they reply saying they are sorry and are going to send me new grates.  THey suggest I great them with vegetable oil so they don't rust.  see below...\n\nIf you notice the bottom of your grates are rusting the bottom surface on cast iron grates is deliberately unfinished to allow high carbon gases, present in iron, to escape during the manufacturing process.  If the gases were trapped it would cause surface blemishes in the enamel finish and increase chipping.  To eliminate or minimize rust from forming do not allow grates to stand in water for long periods of time.  After washing dry the grates thoroughly to prevent rust oxidation from forming.  You may also coat the bottom surfaces of the grates with a vegetable oil, or a non stick cooking spray (remember to wipe off excessive oil before placing on range).  There may be a slight amount of smoke from any excess vegetable oil residue left on the grate when the burner is first used again.  We would like to apologize for any inconvenience you are experiencing\n\nWell they send me two grates in the mail.  I have to reply and ask for two more.  They send me one.  I reply a 3 time asking for the fourth.  Pathetic.\n\nI am so disappointed in this stove and the customer service in regards to making it right.  How dare you suggest that I have to treat the grates with oil to keep the from rusting!  If you would have done some better testing and engineering then I would not have to do anything.  Sure, you can send me replacement grates.  But that isn't going to take care of my stove top which is likely to keep rusting regardless of my new grates.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3662, "id": 62703, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 558, "len_tokens": 658, "text": "The GE Profile Induction stovetop is everything I was looking for. Easily cleans with a paper towel and Windex, 100% controlled temperature, evenly cooks, heats up FAST!, in less then a minute completely boils water, looks beautiful with any decor and our pots and pans stay clean on the bottom because no flame is constantly hitting it. Under supervision, I use one piece of paper towel under the pot when cooking to catch any spill overs and to just keep the ceramic top clean. Even on the highest setting surprisingly the paper towel never burns. Amazingly The stovetop doesn't get hot only the pan does and directly under the pan. It's truly like MAGIC!. I don't have to worry about flames catching anything or anybody on fire. It's perfect for the kids to cook. I will never use gas again! What a MESS gas stoves make and how ugly they are with big burners. What a pain to clean a gas stovetop, I will never go back to gas.\n\nHere's what to be careful of...\n\nNever cook without something in the pot because it can overheat the pot and blow out the fuse on the cooktop, according to the directions this can also permentenly break the cooktop. We are being careful of that. I can see how that can happen if something boils dry or burns and overheats. Just like cooking a pan on a flame with nothing in it would really mess up the pan and become over heated.\n\nWe are careful about not scratching the cooktop which really won't happen if you are gentle on how you put your pan on the ceramic. Just make sure there is noting under the pan that may scratch and it will be fine. We don't slide the pan on it, we just put it down gently and we also use a paper towel which we probably don't have to use but I feel better using it. No problems.\n\nThe only thing I noticed that bugs me once in awhile when cleaning is the control lock does not stay locked, but that's no big deal. it's just a pain to clean over the lock and the on/off buttons.\n\nOne thing to beware of is NEVER use tin foil directly under a pan when cooking, it will melt the tin foil and ruin the stovetop. Now a days for some reason foil melts when too hot. Yah I know, who would think but it's happing with all the new appliances and complaints are all over the internet. If heat is applied directly to tin foil it melts. It truly will ruin any appliance that this happens to. You can't get melted foil off without ruining the appliance.\n\nEDIT 6/26/2013\nStill LOVE my Cooktop! No problems at all, no scratches, it still looks as good as new, and I figured out the problem with the lock button for cleaning the top without the touch pad turning on was because of me (user error).... I didn't know how to do it and thought there was something wrong with it, theres nothing wrong with it, the problem was that I was not holding down the lock button long enough to lock it. You need to hold it down for a good minute before it locks and to unlock it the same thing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3663, "id": 62705, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 456, "len_tokens": 603, "text": "This cook top is every thing I had hoped it would be. I was replacing another 30\" cook top, so all I did was open the breaker, check to see if the circuit was dead, broke the old connection, popped-out the old cook top, dropped-in the GE, reconnected the wiring, closed the breaker, and that was it.  One note, if you downloaded the instructions beforehand: a couple of times the instructions make bold note that if you have aluminum wiring, then you need Al to Cu connectors.  Yep, but the COOK TOP has Al wiring, so if you have Cu wiring you need special wire nuts.  A simple, online check with Lowes or Home Depot, or a call to a local appliance store, to check availability and get three wire nuts for an Al to Cu connection.  For those with a science acumen, it's the galvanic action between the two, dissimilar metals that will cause corrosion--some will, incorrectly, say it's electrolysis, but that requires an electrolytic solution.\nA few reviews as to cookware seem moot.  If one doesn't know what magnetic induction is, perhaps one should read-up on it before considering this item.  I recently changed cookware to Le Creuset Tri-Ply because I needed new cookware and had induction cooking in mind, also.  This is excellent cookware.  Lesser cookware will work on this cook top as long as it's of a ferrous material--stainless steel or cast iron.  However, the performance of this cook top using this cookware is outstanding--much better than my ancient experience with gas.  Amazing!\nAs for the 40 amp power requirement, when I popped the old cook top out, I noticed that the power rating was virtually the same as the GE one.  This cook top ran for years on a 30 amp circuit.  It should have been a 40 amp circuit, but the good ole boy electricians--I'm being generous--in rural East Texas used a 30 amp circuit and the old cook top never tripped the breaker.  Induction cooking has to use less power than an electrical resistance cook top.  Yes, induction and resistance are related, but using electrical resistance to heat has to be right up there with a wood-burning stove as to inefficiency.\nShort version.  Get this cook top and some Al to Cu wire nuts.  You'll have no buyer's remorse.\nBTW, instead of paying out the nose for an induction plate (hob) for use with your non-ferrous cookware, just get a cast iron griddle--preferably one without the built-up ring on the bottom. You're have to deal with the high specific heat, and resulting \"thermal battery\" of cast iron, but you won't need to use it that much. It's something that you'll probably want to have, anyway.\n\nOne year later: Outstanding!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3664, "id": 62733, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 580, "len_tokens": 671, "text": "We put this freezer in our basement. The only outlet we had was a GFI, so I read the manual to see if there was any reason not to plug it into a GFI. There was nothing about plugging the freezer into a GFI in the manual. (For those of you who don't know GFI is, it is the type of outlet you have in your bathroom to create a shorter circuit so that when you drop your hair dryer into the sink you don't die. It's a circuit breaker, just at the wall instead out at your circuit breaker box.) And after putting a little food in it and going on vacation it tripped the GFI. We lost about $500 of food and we can't get the awful smell out of it. And here is where the story begins....\n\nGE support sent a technician out to look at our freezer. He confirmed the awful smell, and plugged it in to see if if was running (and it was). He told me that I shouldn't plug it into a GFI. When I told him there was nothing in the manual he understood why I was upset. A day later GE support called me back to tell me that they would give us a \"deal\" of $167.50 for a new freezer (plus a shipping fee). They then informed us that we had 30 days to accept their offer (even with eight months left on the warranty) and that it was their final offer. They said that it wasn't covered because it was plugged into a GFI. I explained that the manual said nothing about GFI. They said that the manual says you have to plug it into a regular outlet. After some back and forth I asked the tech if he knew what a GFI was and he fully admitted that he didn't. I asked for his manager, which turned out the be the manager who made the decision. After talking with her a while I asked her if she knew what a GFI was and she immediately admitted that she didn't know. I got the customer service from Ultimate Electronics (where I got it from) involved). Finally GE technical support admitted that they weren't technical and would have an engineer call me. The tech who came out to us called me and we had a very short conversation because we understood each other, and, more importantly, he understood why it should be replaced. Ultimate called GE on my behalf, but they wouldn't give us anything more than this offer. The offer didn't include their shipping fee which would make it more expensive than what we originally paid. The very friendly and helpful Ultimate representative didn't know what to do to help me but they were more than willing to do what they could. A GFI won't trip unless there is a power surge from a device plugged into it. The only thing plugged into this GFI outlet was the freezer.\n\nSo we lost $500 worth of food and have a ruined $200 freezer after a couple months of use because GE won't stand behind their product. So we'll go out of our way to avoid buying any GE products after how much this $200 freezer cost us.\n\nBottom line, I hope you never have to call GE if this freezer fails. GE Support Case #10260539. Honestly, this is the worst customer service I think I've ever had.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3665, "id": 62802, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 548, "len_tokens": 640, "text": "I live in an apartment and, although we have a laundry room, there is only one washer and dryer for 8 units, it's downstairs and I had to hoard quarters (6 per load).  I finally got tired of sharing with the neighbors and having such a small window of time to do laundry (i.e. not while I'm at work, not after 10pm, etc).\n\nI looked at washer/dryer combos a couple of years ago and didn't see anything that looked worth the cost.  When I tried again a few weeks ago I came across the LG and was pleasantly surprised by the mostly positive reviews. I spent a LOT of time reading reviews and researching the LG so I was pretty familiar with the pros and cons of the machine by the time I got it.  I was able to order it online while it was on sale and used an additional 12% off coupon that made the price more palatable.  It also let me spring for the titanium version that I just like the looks of.\n\nI've had the unit for about a week now and I am extremely pleased with it.  After a couple of trips to the hardware store (casters, a mixer/y hose and a quick release adapter for the faucet) I was up and running within minutes.  I'm on the second floor and am very surprised at how quiet this machine is.  It actually makes less noise than my dishwasher and, since the neighbors have never complained about that, I'm assuming I'll have no problems with the washer. I was also worried about it dancing across the floor on its wheels (since my designated shopper bought casters without locks and I was too impatient to go exchange them) but I park it on my kitchen rug and it stays in place, no problem.\n\nAn entire load takes less time than I expected (after reading some reviewers complaints) and the clothes are perfectly dry once you pull them out of the machine and let them air for a couple of seconds.  I have noticed that items come out more wrinkled then they do in a conventional dryer but, for me, that's a small tradeoff for the convenience.\n\nI put a load in yesterday before I went to work and set the timer to finish about the time I get home.  I walked in the door to the pleasant scent of clean clothes and hung them up - very nice. I expect that I will be doing this most days so the additional time to run a load won't make any difference for me. Also, the added benefit of not having to be home to transfer the load from the washer to the dryer means I can truly set-and-forget my laundry.  I am loving this!\n\nOne minor complaint is the child-lock. I don't have children and would prefer to be allowed to take my chances opening the door once the load is complete or on a whim mid-cycle. It would be nice to be able to disable this 'feature'.\n\nAll in all, if you've done your research and understand the limitations of this machine (smaller loads, longer cycle times, more wrinkles) and still want one I think you will be very, very pleased with it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3666, "id": 63591, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 528, "len_tokens": 653, "text": "My dishwasher is over 14 yrs. old and still running great, but the top rack had alot of damage to the vinyl and resulting rust.  I didn't realize there was a repair product like this, and it should have been addressed long before the rack was so far gone.  Nonetheless, it seems to have done a good job, although I just did it a few days ago so don't know how long it will hold up.  I think one would definitely get the best results if it was used at the first sign of rust or damage to the vinyl coating.  Also, if you do have alot of areas to be repaired, DEFINITELY get more than one bottle.  In fact, I may order a second bottle to go over the areas again (I was stingy w/ the second coat because the bottle was almost empty), as well as touch up some minor cracks in the vinyl coating of the lower rack, not yet broken or rusted.  Another thing that makes it difficult to repair large areas is the fact that it clumps up very quickly.  I had a jar of paint thinner right there to dip the brush in in order to keep it pliable during use...also recap and shake virgorously often during use.  Even if it doesn't last a long time, it defintely improved the looks of my rusted rack, and it keeps the rust from transferring to your dishes.  The cost is minimal and well worth it in my opinion, even if it's only a temporary fix.  In addition, the company (RusSan Enterprises) was SUPER about fast correspondence, fast shipping and great packaging.  I give it 4 stars rather than 5 because of the fact that it clumps and thickens so quickly, it makes it hard to get full use of an entire bottle.  However, based on initial results and the overall dramatic improvement in the looks of the damaged rack, I WOULD DEFINITELY RECOMMEND THIS PRODUCT AND THIS COMPANY!\n\nUPDATE:  As of November, 2010, the majority of the repairs to my dishwasher racks were still holding nicely from my initial repair job using this product. Some of the most badly damaged areas....large areas that were very badly rusted, almost completely through the wire in places....were just starting to show rust through the applied product, but I think those areas could've been fixed up again with another application.  We moved in Nov. 2010, so I won't know for sure just how long the repairs lasted....perhaps longer than the old dishwasher itself. This is an amazing product!  As I said in my initial review, if repairs would be done at first signs of rust/damage, the results would be even better (nicer looking, for sure, and lasting longer without the need for reapplication).  But, in my experience, it also worked on badly damaged racks, certainly worth a try if you're trying to eek out more use from a dishwasher that still runs but has damaged racks (new racks are quite expensive, more than what the old dishwasher was worth in my situation).  Again and still, I highly recommend this product....quick, inexpensive fix for damaged dishwasher racks!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3667, "id": 63905, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 468, "len_tokens": 608, "text": "For those who have used those ineffectual microwave oven/range hood combos, you will find this Broan AP 130 fan/hood with recirculating kit a God-send.  Your house is cleaner and your fabrics do not retain kitchen smells.\n\nI used a triple-filtered recirculating Broan Microtek hood/fan system for about 10 years, and found it acceptable for its nonvented application.  This newer AP130 hood and fan seems to work even better with the Broan recirculating kit.\n\nFirst, the fan.  The highest setting is certainly less noisy than most vacuum cleaners, and I can hear the TV and people speak from short distances.  I do not mind 10-15 minutes of this fan operating on high at dinner time to keep my apartment free from a lot of grease and cooking odors.  It does not affect my hearing or annoy me especially.  Lower speeds of course, go down to an almost whisper setting.\n\nI seem to think the non-vented technology is a bit better, even though it is the same triple filter as the older Microtek, the 88F available at many on-line filter outlets.  First the air hits the standard aluminum grease trap filter.  Then the air goes through three layers of material, including a charcoal impregnated one.  You must keep changing the three-layer filter often depending on how often you cook smelly, greasy food, from three months to a year.  Each pair of the 88F filters cost around $30 when bought on line. so it is a cheap alternative to a dark greasy ceiling, cabinets (inc. handles) and walls.  Besides the whole home smells better over the long term.  Installation of the filters takes less than 30 seconds, once you become familiar with the process.  Of course, the aluminum grease trap filters last indefinitely.  Do not put the latter in the dishwasher unless you do not mind the discoloration from the detergent.\n\nThe AP130 hood itself is tall and deep, giving a great stainless steel dimension to the kitchen decor.  I also bought the Broan SS backsplash which completes the look of the AP 130 and the NDK35830SS recirculating kit for nonvented installations.  The two LED lamps work well at high, however the ones I bought have a high-frequency \"vibration\" on the lower setting.  No problem there as I just keep it on high.  If I need a night light in the kitchen, I use the refrigerator on-door water dispenser light.  Yes, it is a bit awkward to find the controls hidden under the hood, but it makes the kitchen hood look cleaner without clutter.\n\nI am very happy with this unit with the optional recirculating kit.  Of course, I wish I had ductwork and an exterior wall for my kitchen fan to exhaust the air outdoors.  In that absence of that ideal solutions to kitchen odors, this is the next-best thing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3668, "id": 64198, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 468, "len_tokens": 610, "text": "For those who have used those ineffectual microwave oven/range hood combos, you will find Broan AP 130 hood/fan with recirculating kit NDK35830SS a God-send.  Your house is cleaner and your fabrics do not retain kitchen smells.\n\nI used a triple-filtered recirculating Broan Microtek hood/fan system for about 10 years, and found it acceptable for its nonvented application.  This newer AP130 hood and fan seems to work even better with the Broan recirculating kit NDK35830SS.\n\nFirst, the AP130 fan.  The highest setting is certainly less than most vacuum cleaners, and I can hear the TV and people speak from short distances.  I do not mind 10-15 minutes of this fan operating on high at dinner time to keep my apartment free from a lot of grease and cooking odors.  It does not affect my hearing or annoy me especially.  Lower speeds of course, go down to an almost whisper setting.\n\nI seem to think the technology is a bit better for the recirculating kit, even though it is the same triple filter as the older Microtek, the 88F available at many on-line filter outlets.  First the air hits the standard aluminum grease trap filter.  Then the air goes through three layers of material, including a charcoal impregnated one.  You must keep changing the three-layer filter often depending on how often you cook smelly, greasy food, from three months to a year.  Each pair of the 88F filters cost around $30 when bought on line. so it is a cheap alternative to dark greasy ceiling, cabinets and walls.  Besides the whole home smells better over the long term.  Installation of the filters takes less than 30 seconds, once you become familiar with the process.  Of course, the aluminum grease trap filters last indefinitely.  Do not put the latter in the dishwasher unless you do not mind the discoloration from the detergent.\n\nThe AP130 hood itself is tall and deep, giving a great stainless steel dimension to the kitchen decor.  I also bought the Broan SS backsplash which completes the look of the AP 130 and the recirculating kit for nonvented installations.  The two LED lamps work well at high, however the ones I bought have a high-frequency \"vibration\" on the lower setting.  No problem there as I just keep it on high.  If I need a night light in the kitchen, I use the refrigerator on-door water dispenser light.  Yes, it is a bit awkward to find the controls hidden under the hood, but it makes the kitchen hood look cleaner without clutter.\n\nI am very happy with this unit with the optional recirculating kit.  Of course, I wish I had ductwork and an exterior wall for my kitchen fan to exhaust the air outdoors.  In that absence of that ideal solutions to kitchen odors, this is the next-best thing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3669, "id": 65765, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 604, "len_tokens": 676, "text": "Our dryer blew the thermal breaker and stopped running. Ordered the parts and it was recommended that the vents be cleaned to alleviate the overheating condition and avoid a vent fire. Found my kit at Lowe's and purchased it there. All of the parts are very well constructed. Heavy plastic adapters, and well made brush pieces. Rods were flexible enough to bend into a U shape. Used the small long brush to do the duct work inside the dryer. Do NOT use the rounder shorter small brush! Attached it to one rod and carefully worked it into the screen slot. Moved it up and down and back and forth to clean out the slot. Then removed the long brush and attached the short round brush to a rod using the enclosed set screws. Went to the back of the dryer and ran this brush in and out several times twisting by hand. Used a vaccume to suck up the loosened dust and lint. No issues. My vent has one 45 degree turn going in then a straight 14 foot run to the outside. NO VENT SHOULD HAVE A 90 DEGREE TURN!! If your vent has a 90 degree turn it is installed incorrectly and should be reinstalled correctly according to code. With the small short brush still attached to rod one I worked it into the vent opening and pushed it by the first bend. No problem. I pushed the rod in manually while turning slightly as I went by hand. When I had most of the rod in the vent, I added another rod. Worked this into the vent and repeated without incident until all 4 rods were attached and I felt the brush pop out the end of the line. There is a drill attachment included with the kit. Its part of the obstruction cleaner. Leave the C shaped piece off and attach the shaft to your rod end and chuck it in your drill. If you can turn the torque setting down on your drill so if the brush gets hung up it will not damage the tool. Start slowly and work up to a slow to medium speed. Do not run the drill at high speed! So not use a large drill! Do not ever run the drill in reverse!! I attached my DeWalt drill, and turned the torque setting to 3. Starting slowly with all 4 rods attached I gave it power until it started spinning. I moved the brush in an in and out motion while I drew out the rods one by one and removed them as I went. No problems. I had a short 5 foot section of flex pipe to connect from the dryer to the vent. I temporarily connected this and ran the dryer. Checking the vent outlet with a piece of tissue on a stick I had great air flow and a ton of dirt and debris came out of the line. Although it shows that you can run the cleaner brush through the flexible piping, do not attempt to do it. Its not worth the time to attempt to hold the pipe correctly and work the tool. You'll never get all of the lint and debris out of the tons of little creases anyway. for a few bucks, replace the flexible pipe. I replaced my flexible pipe with a new one, and put the dryer back into position ready for a load to dry. Its important to actually read the instructions, they are there for a reason and cover all of the issues buyers have complained about that should not have happened.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3670, "id": 65905, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 491, "len_tokens": 627, "text": "I had not cleaned our dryer duct in 22 years!  I know, my bad.  It is 26' long (mostly horizontal), with 4) 90deg. bends (not including the 2 elbows in the vent pipe which connects the dryer to the wall), so it is far from the \"ideal\" vent system.\n\nI had noticed that clothes were taking too long to dry in our Maytag gas dryer, so I did what has worked in the past - I replaced the coils on the gas valve, and even threw in a replacement operating (cycling) thermostat (which had never been replaced).  I did my normal cleaning of the internals of the dryer, including the filter housing; but still the dryer ran too long.\n\nI looked into the outside dryer vent hood, and saw quite an accumulation of lint in the pipe, so I ordered this kit, plus the set of 4 extra rods, due to the length of the duct.  When the kit arrived, I began by attaching a shop vac to the inside end of the vent, and using the brush on a cordless drill from that end.  I used a dust collector drum between my shop vac and the vent, so that the shop vac would not get clogged up.  That worked great by the way!  Anyway, I was able to clean out the 1st 5' of the duct, including 2) 90deg. bends, but that's as far as I could get, the brush was up against an obstruction of some sort.\n\nWhile the shop vac was running inside, I went outside and could not feel any suction at all at the vent hood, so I knew I had a major blockage.  I left the shop vac running inside, and started using the brush from the outside.  I encountered 2 more 90deg. bends just inside the house, then a long straight run.  I slowly added rods until I had 7 rods in the duct, where I hit the blockage I had encountered from inside.  It would not budge.  Since it was closer to the inside end, I went back inside and put the blockage removal tool on the end of the rod and started adding rods while still using the shop vac from the inside.  I captured the clog and pulled it back to the inside.  It really resisted going around the 2) 90deg. bends, but I got it out in one piece.  It was a hard-packed ball of lint, oval in shape, about 10\" long!  Altogether, we removed over 10lbs. of lint from the duct!\n\nAfter the clog was gone, I used the brush from both ends again to be sure that the entire run was clean.  Now, when the dryer is on, the 3 flapper doors on the outside hood stand straight out, and the dryer runs for a much shorter time!\n\nI am a technician by trade, and have several mechanical hobbies.  I appreciate well-designed tools.  This kit is EXCELLENT!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3671, "id": 66750, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 520, "len_tokens": 637, "text": "I am replacing a older dryer with a front loader that mounts on a 15\" pedestal.  Because of the additional height, I had to move the wall dryer vent up about 15\".  In this home, about 10 years old, the vent is a 4\" galvenized pipe that runs up an interior wall and vents through the roof, about 17 feet.  In all of my previous homes, the vent was straight out a concrete wall and only about 8\" long.  After I cut the duct, I noticed quite a bit of lint in the pipe.  Since I had just purchased this home, I don't know if the accumulation was just \"normal\" or if the previous owner had just not been consistent in cleaning the dryer lint trap.  It was much easier to clean the vent now rather than pull out the dryer later so I order this cleaning system.  I had to order the extension kit because I needed more than the 12' of rod included.  The quality of this product is excellent and it comes with the best manual I've ever seen for such a simple and inexpensive product.  The manual clearly shows how to use the system in different situations.  The vacuum adapter fits inside the 4\" duct and attached to my shop vac. Virtually no dust was observed during the cleaning.  A port in the adapter allows you to run the rod and the brush up the vent, attaching additional 3' rods as needed.  The instructions say to tighen each joint with pliers and then tape them so they won't come apart if you accidently have the drill set to counterclockwise rotation.  I followed the instructions, but unless you are a total klutz with a drill, you probably don't have to do this.  Even so, tighening and taping and undoing took very little time since there are only a few joints.  I had my wife start and stop the vacuum as I connected the rods and worked the brush up and down the duct with the whole process requiring less than 15 minutes.  I opened my shop vacuum when I was done and was surprised at the amount of lint in there.  The manual (and my new dryer manual) caution that if your wall-to-dryer ductwork is either vinyl or thin foil, you should replace it with the semi-rigid flexible metal ductwork readily available at big box hardware store.  I wasn't aware of this before.  The vinyl and perhaps the thin foil ductwork cannot contain a duct fire.  The thin metal ductwork is nice and flexible but the flexibility inherently reduces the diameter of the duct resulting in less air flow and perhaps longer drying cycles.  More importantly, when you look inside you see that the coils are big lint collectors.  I don't know if I will ever use this system again as I am older and probably won't be pulling the dryer out unless I have to.  But if I have to, I will clean the duct while I'm there.  Great to see such a product like this that is easy to use and does what it says.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3672, "id": 66856, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 497, "len_tokens": 690, "text": "This is an excellent and easy to use product.  The whole process from taking parts out of the box to cleaning everything and packing it back took me 30-40 minutes with the cleanup taking the longest.\n\nI knew that 12' of flexible rods that come with the LintEater Dryer Vent Cleaning System would not be enough for my application, so I bought an extension pack from the local Lowe's that had the best price for LintEater extensions.  I used the total of six rods, which is 18' and I had about 1.5 foot from the drill to the vent and about 1 foot came out on the other side.\n\nThe manual says that you can clean the vent from the outside or from the inside.  I decided to go from the inside thinking that the brush would push loosened lint outside like it looks in the picture on the product page.  I used the supplied shop-vac attachment to minimize mess, and it worked well.  There was a little lint that the brush pushed to the outside, but there was about 2 gallons of lint in my 5 gallon shop-vac (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Vacmaster-VWM510-Wall-Mount-Wet-Dry-Vacuum-Powered-by-Industrial-2-Stage-Motor-with-Remote-Control-5-Gallon-5-Peak-HP/dp/B001O6RA6Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Vacmaster VWM510 Wall Mount Wet/Dry Vacuum Powered by Industrial 2-Stage Motor with Remote Control, 5 Gallon, 5 Peak HP</a>).  I also pulled a half of a lizard from the vent, but I could not find the second half even after running the system through the vent one more time time.\n\nThe manual suggests using a cordless drill with a clutch, I am sure to avoid damage to your duct, but my cordless drill's battery was dead, so I used a corded drill and it worked fine.  You must be sure that the drill is set to turn clockwise or the rods may disconnect inside the duct.\n\nEveryone's project will be different, but I strongly suggest using a shop-vac to minimize the mess.  Lint looks solid when it is stuck inside the dryer vent, but it becomes very dusty when loosened.  I also found that although it is tempting to connect all rods from the start, it is not convenient to use the system with too many rods outside the vent because you end up standing with the drill too far from the vent and the rods create a slack and then twist together similar to how a twisted rope would twist together when you fold it in half.  I started with two rods and connected each next one when all but 5\" of the system had disappeared in the vent.  Additionally, the shop-vac attachment is designed for a 2\" hose, and the manual does not recommend using smaller diameter hoses to avoid clogs, but my shop-vac has 1 1/4\" hose, so I used duct tape to seal the hose against the shop-vac attachment and the 21' hose did not get clogged.\n\nOverall, this is a great product and, if you want to clean your dryer vent, I suggest you give it a try.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3673, "id": 67064, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 520, "len_tokens": 648, "text": "We purchased this Emerson Ice Maker at an actual brick and mortar Target store--AFTER reading these excellent reviews on Amazon.com.\nWe needed it THAT day, and did not want to wait for shipping time.\nHowever, I must admit, I never even knew that an appliance like this was in existence before seeing it on Amazon.\n\nMy husband's job keeps him outside all day in the summer, and he was \"buying\" two large bags of ice daily for his cooler, so that he can have necessary cold water bottles in the heat. Now I make him ice at home, not only saving money at the convenience store, but with much less hassle.\n\nI have encountered a couple of the same \"issues\" as other reviewers and have this short solution:\n\n1) If you are in a hurry, (altho this is not stated in the owner's manual), when the basket fills with ice before I get to it to take the ice out, and the red ICE sensor light comes on---just take the ice out (I store mine in zip loc bags in the other freezer)---and just touch the silver colored 1-inch long \"cold sensor\" with your thumb, and it warms it enough for it to immediately go back into the making ice cycle.\n\n2) About the low water signal--I just try to keep pouring water into it periodically, and keep the reservoir filled or semi-filled, so it does not stop making ice (with the red low water signal). It sits on my countertop between the microwave and the dish drainer, so it is no problem as I walk by it to glance over and see what is going on.\nThis unit makes at least TWO huge bags of ice in a day for me. (I transfer the smaller batches of ice to a big blue \"Large\" Zip-Loc 15\" X 15\" bag with handles, and then put it into the other freezer to \"harden\" and save.)\n\n3)  We do NOT feel that it is noisy as some have commented.  However, our kitchen/living room is a fairly large area, but still--my home Whirlpool side-by-side frig/freezer makes more noise than this little unit.\n\nThe shape of the pieces of ice are just like some that you find at Hotel ice makers--partially an egg shape, with a long cylinder hole in the middle. (By the way--our German Shepherd dog prefers these ice cubes to the other ones the Whirlpool freezer makes at home!!) It is a great shape, and seems to keep frozen for quite a while--Our two large bags stay frozen for over 14 hours on the job--in the sun--in 90-plus degree heat in just a standard cooler (NOT a 5-day cooler).\n\nWe LOVE this little family friend, and feel that we will make back the money that we invested in it THIS year--based on the amount of commercial ice we HAD been purchasing every summer.\n\nSo, we would HIGHLY recommend this very SIMPLE unit.  Not complicated at all.  It's one of those things that I said, \"Why did I not think about inventing this???\n\nHope you enjoy yours also as well!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3674, "id": 67083, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 530, "len_tokens": 651, "text": "After years of lugging those cold, heavy bags of ice around, and trying to make them fit in the freezer, and pushing stuff around any time I needed ice (I live in South Texas - I need ice all the time), I finally broke down and bought this high-rated ice maker.  I did my homework before buying, and this one sounded tops. I bought it at Target for $109.\n\nI absolutely love it!\n\nMine is not noisy at all.  When it drops the ice, it does sound like ice dropping into a basket (duh) and afterwards, you can hear the splash of the ice tray filling again.  Otherwise, all I hear is a gentle fan noise, which is a noise I like, especially when it's making me some ice.\n\nI got it home, thoroughly cleaned and rinsed the insides and dried it.  Waited half an hour per instructions and began making ice.  The first ice had a little bit of the chlorine-like/new plastic smell to it, but it tasted like frozen water - no bad taste whatsoever.  This is using water from an under-sink water filter system.  It recommends using distilled water - didn't have any.\n\nI put it on the largest size and it spit out 9 tiny little cubes in 11 minutes.  I was worried.\n\nIt was just getting started though!  The cubes got steadily bigger and more densely frozen with each batch.  Helpful hint:  Use cold water or put a few cubes of ice in the water well when you add water the first time.  This makes the unit colder faster and therefore more efficient. Do it both ways and you'll see the difference in the ice when you use cold water.\n\nI ran it for about 3.5 hours and got the equivalent of a big ole bag of ice.  I put the ice in quart-size baggies and they go just about anywhere scattered around in my freezer, as opposed to taking up a ton of room like those bags.  It's like getting a new freezer, too!  And I'll never buy ice again, or worry about my kitchen flooding while I'm at work because of refrigerator icemaker has gone awry.\n\nIt only stopped once - when the ice basket got full. I used the cute scoop (comes with) to clear the basket into a baggy, and pushed the power button and it started right back up.\n\nThe unit will make a LOT of ice before needing more water, but you can top it off at any time at all without disturbing the process.\n\nA wonderful kitchen tool; I now consider it a necessity!\n\nUPDATED JUNE 2012\n\nStill works perfectly.  Use it at least once a week and stockpile ice that is much tastier than nasty old freezer-made ice!\n\nUPDATED MARCH 2013\n\nI've never had one single moment of trouble with this icemaker and I still absolutely love it.  I did misplace the plug once.  Wrote an email to Emerson and got an entire new plug assembly for the cost of shipping ($5).  I can't imagine why so many other reviewers are having trouble with theirs.  Mine is perfect and has been in use for years now.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3675, "id": 67933, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 517, "len_tokens": 617, "text": "I didn't buy my Electrolux Slide-In dual fuel convection range thru Amazon. I bought a Sears Elite dual fuel range. But it was made by Electrolux.\nNo matter what model you are looking at, you need to find out if the oven light is an old fashioned appliance bulb, or the new halogen bulb. In every model I've looked at since the oven bulbs in mine burned out, they have all been the halogen type.\nHere's why:\nYou should know if you buy this model, or any model of gas or electric or dual fuel range built by Electrolux that when the oven light bulb burns out, it will cost you anywhere from $44.00 to $66.00 to buy the halogen bulb, depending on the model.\nThis is because Electrolux or who ever supplies the parts requires you to buy the complete light assembly which includes\nthe bulb. Or it could mean that since the complete assembly must be purchased, the complete assembly must be replaced each time a light bulb burns out. That would mean a service call at a cost of $150.00 to $200.00 to replace a light bulb. And if light bulb(s) continue to burn out each year, my 2 burned out within the first year, this could be an expensive maintenance item that the customer should be able to do themselves for just the cost of an appliance bulb.\nThe halogen bulb simply pulls out of the ceramic base which would indicate that only the lamp needs to be replaced.\nEither Electrolux or the parts supplier is trying to gouge the consumer by requiring them to purchase an expensive part that isn't needed to get a relatively inexpensive part that is needed, or there is something wrong with the light housing assembly requiring the complete thing to be replaced each time a light burns out. I can't get an answer to this because I can't find anyone at Electrolux dealers or Electrolux part supliers or the Electrolux company who can or will answer the questions. And I've tried for over a year and a half now.\nI would seriously consider buying a range where a light bulb can be replaced with a bulb instead of the convoluted and\nexpensive process that Electrolux presents it's customers with.\nAlso, the electronic control panel went out within 10 months. After it was replaced, the oven temperature was 25 degrees lower than the control panel setting. I called the service tech back. He said there wasn't anything they could do unless the temperature difference was greater than 35 degrees, because the oven has up to a 35 degree adjustment that can be made in the control panel.\nI like the look of the range. I love the dual fuel. But I detest a product that is so poorly designed that a simple thing like a light bulb replacement(it's one of the only things that the customer can do themselves on the new ranges)is turned into an expensive hassle for the customer. And I really don't like a company who won't even respond to your questions.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3676, "id": 68562, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 491, "len_tokens": 633, "text": "I purchased a Bosch washer (model WAS20160UC) and dryer  (model WTV76100US) set in December 2011.  This is the experience I have had with the Bosch appliances.  It is a vented dryer, not the condensation model.  This review is mostly about the dryer.\n\nPros:  Stylish (witch makes no difference since the dryer is so poor)\n\nCons:  This dryer takes very long to dry even small loads.  It  will get warm but not hot.  A Bosch technician measured the temperature of the dryer at 122 degrees Fahrenheit.  But, he informed me that this was normal for this dryer.  In one test; two bath towels, two hand towels, and one facial towel were washed in the washer and rinsed on maximum spin to remove as much of the water as possible.  It took the dryer 1hr. 20 min. to dry the load.  After many phone calls and 3 or 4 service calls, they replaced the dryer.  It performed as poorly as the first. So, I called an electrician to really find out what was going on.  With freshly washed towels in the dryer, he observed the dryer drawing 10 amps (about the maximim rating) for 15 to 20 seconds.  Then it went down to 5 amps for about about 30 seconds (he described it as half heat) then down to room temperature air coming out of the exhaust for another couple minutes.  It repeats this cycle.  At no time does the dryer actually get hot enough to remove the moisture from the load.  It mostly just uses ambiant temperature air to dry the clothes.  If touch the clothes in the middle of the load, they mearly feel slightly warm. While it is not practical for most people to use a clothes line, I think it would be just as effective as this dryer.\n\nThe thing that bugs me the most about this whole debacle is this:  Both Bosch and the appliance store had the attitude that I should just accept the poor performance because it is a European design.  I heard many excuses defending an appliance that I truly believe they KNOW does not perform as it should.\n\nIf you buy a coffee maker, do you expect it to make coffee in about 15 minutes?  If you buy a blender, do you expect it to blend what you put in it?  Well, when you buy a DRYER, you kind of expect it to actively dry.\n\nIn fairness, this washer/dryer set may be suitable for a single person who does small loads of laundry.  You can expect a small load to take 60 minutes to wash and 80 minutes to dry.  So you are right around 3.5 to 4 hours for two small loads.\n\nUpdate:  The appliance store has taken back the Bosch washer and dryer.  I have replaced them with a GE unitized washer/dryer (model GTUP240EWH)  This dryer completely dried the same load in 30 minutes.\n\nI hope this review is helpful for you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3677, "id": 68619, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 529, "len_tokens": 664, "text": "My hope in writing this review is to keep someone else from making the mistake of purchasing this dishwasher.  We built a new home in 2009 and purchased a complete set of Electrolux appliances, spending over $12,000.  For the most part we are pleased with the performance of the other pieces, but they haven't been \"trouble free\".  Back to our worst mistake, this DISHWASHER!  I could write a book on the \"error\" numbers, which were sometimes valid and sometimes \"no problem found\".  We had problems with a horrible smell, mold inside, and water leaks under the unit.  We burnt through the standard 1 year warranty, and even though the unit had problems from day 1 Electrolux did not offer much assistance.\n\nAfter another \"leak\" under the unit I began to research the problem and learned quickly we were not the only ones having issues.  I read about a \"repair kit\" Electrolux was installing on units still under warranty.  I made one final call to the 800 number and asked to speak with a Manager.  I reminded her that we had spent over 12K with their company and this dishwasher had problems from day 1.  She authorized a repairman to install the kit at their expense.  I had high hopes the problems would finally be resolved.... but the problems were only starting.\n\nLeaks under the unit finally stopped, but the smell, and intermittent \"errors\" continue to occur.  I even went as far as replacing the control panel at my own expense ($300) since I read this could cause the intermittent errors.  It did not resolve the problems.  We finally came to a conclusion this dishwasher model is junk, and we needed to bite the bullet, and throw away a 5 year old $1,300 appliance.  Being a typical husband, I kept stalling on spending the money... and that was my biggest mistake.\n\nWe started the dishwasher and left our home for a couple hours.  Upon returning and opening the front door I could hear the now infamous \"error beep\".  There was a stranger noise I didn't recognize... somewhat like Niagara Falls.  I entered the kitchen to find water flowing across our hardwood floors and the dishwasher still running.  I made the mistake of opening the door on the dishwasher, in an attempt to turn it off, to find the unit completely full of water.  I ran to the garage and killed the power, but the water kept flowing.  I dived under the sink to reach the valve for the dishwasher and killed the water supply.  This was a new issue, the inlet valve stuck open!  The water had found a route downstairs to our walkout basement by running through the opening for the downdraft under the center island.  I used my Shop-Vac to suck up over 200 gallons of water from downstairs alone.  Our only saving grace was that end of the walkout was not finished yet.  My wife and I agreed the Electrolux dishwasher would never be turned back on.  Today I installed a Bosch!!!!!  The dishwasher from hell is headed for the dump.\n\nUnless you have a fetish for pain and suffering DO NOT PURCHASE THIS DISHWASHER!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3678, "id": 68736, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 543, "len_tokens": 629, "text": "I have been pleased with all Kitchen Aide items I purchased in the past, and wanted a double drawer dish washer for my newly remodeled kitchen 5 years ago. My husband and I looked into purchasing this model. At the time, we could find only 2 dishwashers that had double drawers and couldn't find any reviews on either one. Taking our past experience with Kitchen Aide appliances into consideration, we purchased this. We are glad we didn't write a review within the first year. It started out great, although within the second year, our problems started. The dishes weren't coming clean and the drain basket kept popping up. Naturally, my husband thought I was putting the utensils in upside down causing the handles of the utensils to be part of the problem. After having 2 separate plumbers look at this and not being able to locate why this was happening, my husband wanted to purchase another dishwasher, one that didn't have drawers. I insisted I loved the 2 drawer dishwasher but he knew better. As time went on it took longer and became more difficult to get clean dishes. I opted to try liquid detergent instead of powder. This eliminated the problem of soap residue on the dishes & glasses, but it wasn't long before other problems started to happen.  Once again, the dishes weren't coming clean, although this time is was not because of soap residue(the water was hot enough but for some reason many times the dishes looked as dirty as when they went into the machine) and a double wash cycle had to be done. Over the next 3 years problems turned into nightmares with more and more things going wrong. The settings weren't working properly, the water was remaining in one or both of the drawers after washing was finished, the drain baskets were popping up more and more frequently, and the blade wouldn't rotate past the drain basket. Fixing it almost every time the dish washer was used, my husband once again wanted to purchase a new dish washer but again, I loved my 2 drawer option and insisted on continuing to empty water residue out of the washers when I had to and pushing the drain basket back into place. Last evening I changed my mind as I was now disgusted with my dishwasher. The water in the top washer looked like dishes sitting in a bucket of water. The blade wasn't turning and this time the water wouldn't drain at all. It was definitely the dish washer and not the pipes as the sink was fine. A once die hard Kitchen Aide purchaser, I began losing my faith in Kitchen Aide large appliances. I am now in search for a new dish washer. After coming across the reviews for this, I wish we had known before what I know now.  I am writing to let those who may want a double drawer dish washer to think twice before purchasing this. It is nice looking but that doesn't clean dishes & silverware! P.S. I give this 1 star for looks only, as for performance, I give this 0 stars!! Sometimes purchasing an expensive item doesn't always mean it is better as we found out with this.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3679, "id": 68782, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 543, "len_tokens": 677, "text": "I wanted to add my two cents since I appreciate this posting because it has helped me save my fridge and I have done a lot of research since then. The first thing you should do is a continuity check on the three compressor terminals to see if any of the leads are shorted together. If they are then you need to replace the compressor since the transformer windings are shorted. If the compressor is ok then its likely the Overload Heat Protect part which is failing likely because theres a design flaw with the part. I was able to remove mine then reinsert it to get the freezer to work again though it didn't work well (compressor kept turning on and off and when I replaced it the compressor is staying on). But it gave me enough time to order a new part. The part sells for less than $9 on ebay. Do a search for these part numbers since they will all work for the 110V part: 6750C, 4387913, 2154759, 4357207, 4387766, 4387836, ER4387913, AP3108669, PS371538, SZ4387766, 77600, 586521, AH371538, EA371538. The 110V part is cheaper (has the terminal in the center vs off to one side like the 110V part). Now the 220V part is cheaper (less than $1 each from China) and may work but I was concerned that it could draw less current than the 110V part needs but it could still work so you might want to try it. Do a search for this part number on ebay: R600A. If the Overload part isn't the issue then do a search for QP2-4.7 3 pin or 4 pin and they sell for under $4. In addition I was able to get the manufacturer to send me the two parts since the freezer was still under warranty (it was either that or ship the freezer out which would be a huge shipping fee). Happy hunting!\n\nUpdate on this. My freezer stopped working 1 week after I replaced the Overload Heat Protect part so I replaced the QP2-4.7 3pin Start Relay and its been weeks and its going strong. I also re-installed my old Overload Heat Protect part that I could shake and it made the shaking noise and it works fine. The diagnoses that a shaky Overload Heat Protect part shows you the part is bad is dead wrong. Its the Start Relay that was replaced which is defective and they are really cheap to buy (likely why the fail so often!).\n\nI actually still had the freezer under warranty but they said I had to ship the freezer to Canada at my expense. I asked them to just send me those to parts and I am still waiting for them..waiting Finally got a reply from them and they said they don't carry the two parts. If this is true, this means they aren't repairing anything. It is a SCAM since the parts are readily available and a huge percentage of their freezers have this defective Start Relay! I called them threatening to raise a class action law suit against them but could tell they aren't going to do anything because this is what the lady said. If anyone does sue them, count me in..", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3680, "id": 69936, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 520, "len_tokens": 622, "text": "Reading all the other reviews of this product......you have to blame the error of the customers and not the product itself.\n\nIf you have ever owned a Wine Fridge.....you know it is NOT a refrigerator....that is not its purpose. If the other reviewers wanted a beverage holder that was able to keep food in it or keep beverages below 40degrees....then they should have gotten a REFRIGERATOR...not a wine fridge/chiller.\n\nSo knowing that....let us give an honest and realistic review of this item based on what it was actually designed for.\n\nThis unit while not the highest frills of wine chillers is attractive with a stainless steel trim on the door and a glass front and a black body. The door is reversible and it has an internal blue LED interior light you can turn on/off depending on your mood. It does not have a Temperature indicator with a simple dial for temperature with MIN to MAX indicators. It is simple and attractive.....and given its price....thats to be expected. I purchased a suction cup thermometer that faces out and mounts to the interior of the glass door for like 2$.\n\nIt comes with 4 adjustable racks and the nice bonus of a bottom storage area rack that has not been present in other wine chillers I have purchased. It allows you to stack cans on the bottom on their side so they don't roll out.\n\nMy unit is new and I purchased it as it is replacing an old Urbina thermoelectric wine chiller that finally crapped out after 2.5 years (It was dirt cheap so no big whoop). We will see if this unit is the exception.\n\nLets be honest......these units don't tend to last more than 3 years on average so if you are worried about that a higher end unit may be to your liking....but you will pay a pricey premium for actual fridge-like beverage centers like GE's.....or just invest in a long extended warranty so you can be re-imbursed should it fail within 3 years (this is what I did).\n\nThis unit unlike my old model has an actual compressor and sealed coolant system which is a luxury at this price range....usually you are getting a thermo-electric cooling system at prices below 200$.\n\nI will update my review in the coming months but so far my unit on MAX is cooling better than expected with an average of 33F below room temp:\n(Current Results = Room Temp - 75F / Cooler Temp - 42F )\n* NOTE: Cooler is in a shaded corner away from direct sunlight...and this is also one of the 'newer' models in stores now.\n\nHopefully this informed and realistic review will help others. This is good unit for the price if you want a beverage chiller. It is similar to units they use at bars and convenience stores on or near the counter. Your beverages will be chilled but they will not be ice cold. Your white wine will be in the perfect temperature range (depending on the temp of your home or room)......which is exactly what this unit was designed for.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3681, "id": 70869, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 521, "len_tokens": 699, "text": "I never trust 1 star reviews on a product, especially when they are few compared to units sold.  I'm glad I didn't in this case either.  I'm actually writing a review on THIS dishwasher, the LDF6920ST.  Not one that I got with a house I rented that looks like this product that may or may not be it.  Not a different model that has the same design as this one.  This one.\n\nWe've had a \"top of the line\" all the bells and whistles GE dishwasher that we tossed an extra $1000 in at closing for when we had the house built 5 years ago.  5 years of pure hell from an appliance.  We finally decided enough was enough and purchased this, as 2 family members have them and have really loved them.\n\nThis is one heck of a machine, honestly.  Cascade Tabs, Jet Dry, and hot water is all it takes.  I'm not sure why anyone would complain about a dishwasher leaving dishes spotty or streaky while knowingly not using a drying agent.  That's not the dishwasher's fault.  They invented that stuff because, guess what, most water dries spotty.  Minerals in the water cause it, not a defective dishwasher.  Yes, you actually have to open the little door and pour it in about once a month, but aside from that exhausting labor it's worth it for streak free dishes.\n\nCascade is the best I've ever found, and I've tried just about every one under the sun.  The tabs with Dawn are really nice for greasy pans.  Plus, they are easy to use.  Put in soap cup.  Close soap cup.  Start dishwasher.\n\nI put this thing through the wringer after buying it, because I didn't want a crappy dishwasher for another 5 years.  I'd return it the next day.  I tossed in caked on, stuck on, dried on dishes that had sat from dinner the evening before.  One bowl with the dried remains of guacamole on it (every try to scrub that out, let alone in the dishwasher?).  Clean.  1 run, no pre-rinse or dancing on one leg.  Clean.  Spotless.  Wife was happy.  1st run there was the \"new\" odor that most heating elements have.  2nd run it had no smell other than the smell of a dishwasher running.\n\nQuiet.  And I mean quiet.  I had to open the door the first time to make sure it was running.\n\nThe controls on the top of the door are a personal preference.  If you don't like that, don't buy a dishwasher with it.  Again, that's not the dishwasher's fault.\n\nRun time.  It's 2 hours.  Regular wash, power scrub.  2 hours.  The GE ran 1.75 and the dishes had to be run again without soap to rinse them clean, so 3.5 total.  I think the 6 dishwashers we've used since getting married have all run about that long.  Not a deal breaker for me.\n\nI will recommend this to others, it's well worth it.  I will not, however, recommend a GE.  Maybe I should go find a black one on here that looks similar and write a bad review for it. ;)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3682, "id": 70931, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 471, "len_tokens": 676, "text": "I have this stove for over 3 years. I cook on it 4x a week and 3 times on my viking in my second kitchen. I live in Brooklyn and got it locally for (michael (tell them Joe sent you) at 18th ave home appliance 6208 18th Avenue, NY 11204)  $2500 no tax and delivery so it was a steal for the 30\". This stove is very very very easy to use, very good on Gas. The oven needs to have the door ajar and be lit for 15 seconds for the child lock. Burners are sealed and cook evenly ( i use 5 ply or 3ply copper base pans). Oven heats evenly and is really easy to clean. Convection oven works great too. The stainless steel quality is great very heavy guage.\n\nHere's some stuff to remember- Some parts don't have numbers and can be hard to get\nGet all your parts from where you bought the stove- Save the manuel, it has all the part numbers and they can fax it to the dist.\n-You must hook this stove up with a regulator that it comes with\n-It looks heavy in weight but is not so thats a plus\n-Not as heavy as a viking, I do like wolf, DCS,aga and Jade alittle better- more commerical- stainless oven\n-oven is easy clean coated- I prefur stainless\n-Very attractive design\n-Glass is great quality\n-No fridgeare, Bosch, LG, GE, Maytag, Sears, is even close to this stove.\n-quality piece\n-easy to clean\n- Looks like a $3000 stove\n\nIve seen some negative reviews but its usually from people who don't know how to use it, child locks, clean heat it.\n\nMy top choices would be Jade/dynasty then viking then DCS then blue star if you would like to spend $4,000-6,000 then Bertazoni.\n\nYou ocassionally see the 24\" one in small apartments in Rome.\n\nStay away from all GE monogram appliances- Fire recalls and they won't replace it- the main board in there dishwashers get wet. Horrible they give you a $300 credit for a $1200 dish washer\n\nTheir refridgerators are garbage.\n\nI like Bosch dishwashers, Maytag, LG\nSamsung for washers maytag too and refridgerators\nLG refriderators\nSub zeros are nice for $6000-9000 but they over heat and usually burn out in the first year.\nFridigare makes good fridges, so does blomberg and Fisher, Sears stuff is usually really good.\nMicrowaves-sharp carosel, Samsung\ntoasters-delonghi\nVents/duct systems- Braun.\ncappacino-delonghi\n\nThese are all reliable products.\n\nAnyone need help just email me Starbuckslova1@yahoo.com\nappliance questions- home design kitchen designs ect. Tile design, home design... Im in the Brooklyn NYC area so are these stores. Always happy to help!! Buy it once buy it right!\n\nHome depot and lowes are good for small appliance's microwaves, century 21 for toasters coffee makers eact", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3683, "id": 71176, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 499, "len_tokens": 680, "text": "I purchased this periscope vent to install as a part of the dryer exhaust cleaning project.  I wanted to replace the flexible vent because I thought that this smooth vent will prevent lint buildup as well as let me move the dryer closer to the wall and make the laundry area look neater.\n\nFrom the first time I saw this product I was wondering how this adjustable periscope vent could be made airtight to prevent dryer exhaust from escaping.  Well, it is not.  I adjusted and installed it according to the instructions, and then ran the dryer.  I moved my hand along the vent and felt hot dryer exhaust blowing from every gap. This issue was encountered by at least one other reviewer - Melissa D. Felthousen: \"we had to pull the unit out and tape the seams of the periscope\".  Aside from the obvious drawbacks of venting warm humid air into your laundry room, I believe clothes dryer exhaust contains carbon monoxide, and I do not want to pump it into my home.\n\nAfter this first test I wish I could return the periscope vent but I have already cut pieces of it that were interfering with the gas line connection, so, I decided to make it work.  I removed the periscope and used&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Nashua-324A-Cold-Weather-Premium-Foil-Tape-2-1-2-in-x-60-yds-Silver/dp/B0015V93KG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Nashua 324A Cold Weather Premium Foil Tape: 2-1/2 in. x 60 yds. (Silver)</a>&nbsp;to tape all gaps.  I reinstalled the vent and tried it again, but still I could feel dryer exhaust blowing around the areas where round fittings connect to the periscope vent's flat surfaces.  I removed the vent again and taped those seams too, which was more work than I wanted to do.  I think it is OK now, but in my opinion it is absolutely not worth the money or work.  Besides the vent not being airtight, I found the periscope's fitting that connects to the wall vent to be too short, I had to struggle with it to stay securely in the wall.\n\nAt the end of the project my dryer is closer to the wall, but I don't think any gain in space and neatness was worth the struggle.  Prior to installing this vent, my dryer was farther away from the wall than the washer, but now the dryer is closer to the wall than the hoses in the back allow me to move the washer, so the fronts of the two can't be aligned.\n\nI realize that this type of vent may be the only option for some people but, if space permits, I would recommend considering alternative ways of running the regular tubular vent.  Looking back, I believe I should have used a couple of 90 degree fittings and a short piece of the tubular vent, it would have made the installation quick and simple with no taping required.  I am rating the periscope vent two stars, because at the end it worked, but there were too many problems for me to like it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3684, "id": 76853, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 441, "len_tokens": 659, "text": "Of course you have researched online, or a parts book, or a service center and have the OEM number of part required. Nobody is going tell you it will fit whatever without the make, model and serial number that anyone with an internet connection can then chase down the part number.\n\nThat said and according to manufacture cross reference, this evaporator fan (located in freezer) fits several makes including Sears, Roper, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Whirlpool, Estate, etc. part numbers EM343 and 482731.\n\nIt also replaces part numbers EA376645 AP3110929, AH376645, PS376645, Y0056721, Y0056801, R0950025, 0056721, 0056801, 1100473, 1100474, 1100992, 1105608, 1105609, 14210061, 14218828, 14218831, 2154419, 2154977, 2169116, 2169143, 2631, 4318001, 4389140, 482470, 482733, 548697, 549420, 8112, 851170, 8537621, 936162, 938117, 938149, 938287, 938292, 938296, 941547, 946653, 989687, 482731.\n\nIt arrives with 2 new rubber mounting grommets, 2 new steel sleeves that you may or may not need, 2 #8 screws that you may or may not need and a new push on fan with pressure clip installed that when pushing the blade on, the clip side is opposite of motor and facing you. The wireing may not be identical as in starting from top with say, red, white and green, but the stab blocks (one is smaller) will match up makeing it easy.\n\nIf you have never replaced one of these before, watch a couple of uTube videos and there is really nothing to it. If you have one, just make sure you turn ice maker off; usually lift bail up so it is not in the middle of a cycle (you may have to remove ice maker to get back panel out) and unplug the refrigerator before starting the replacement. And of course, after replacing fan and before putting panels back in, plug fridge in and make sure it works.\n\nI just replaced one of these fans at my parents and maybe an hour is all that is required, while it is then a good time to clean out coils (usually underneath and accessed from front and back), then clean the inside by removal of all food, then removal of shelves, drawers, etc., that could easily turn into a 3 or 4 hour job.\n\nWhen cleaning the coils, it is great time to inspect the coil fan that is down there and usually next to compressor. I inspected the coil fan and compressor for odd noises before ordering this part, because if the compressor was bad on an older fridge, that might be a bit more than the average do it yourself person wants to tackle, but the coil fan is easy and not that expensive.\n\nNevertheless, you can do this....", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3685, "id": 81094, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 534, "len_tokens": 637, "text": "Just a little info about me before I review this kit.  I really have no experience with mechanical parts or fixing complex mechanical machinery.  I'm a I.T. and Accountant guy, not a gearhead.  That said, I found Youtube indispensable in helping this newbie to perform this sort of a repair.  I did it because I reasoned, the parts weren't expensive, and what did I have to lose with a washing machine that doesn't work anyway?  I relied on several videos performing the same operation on a Whirlpool top load machine like mine, my machine is 17-years-old.  I purchased it new in 1999.  Earlier in this year I did use Youtube to learn how to replace the \"Dog Agits\" and that worked well, but replacing a clutch by removing the motor, transmission and agitator was a huge step up for me.  I can't say often enough how grateful I am to the men and women who make such videos for the rest of us.  I wish I could take them all out for a meal and a beer.  They saved me plenty of money by teaching me how to perform these repairs myself.\n\nThe repair was fairly straight forward and easy, the hardest part were getting the inner retaining ring seating back down onto the clutch sleeve; that's that hook-like part you see there in the Amazon product listing page.  I did panic when I removed the clutch finger (the larger plastic piece) and out came a steel nail piece that looked like an oversize needle with a hole in the middle.  After googling information about it, it was just a drop pin that the manufacture uses during shipping and is removed when the washer is first installed.  It serves no useful purpose in the everyday functioning of the washer so I was relieved and tossed it out.  While I had the machine apart, I did take time to clean up the grim using a degreaser and rag.  I have the motor coupler parts on order as well.  I ordered them at the sametime thinking it was a good time to replace all of those parts.  But the clutch arrived on time and the motor coupler parts look like they will be a week late so that will get done next week.\n\nI have seen other views on this particular product page stating this clutch did not last long on their machine, so I will hold off giving this kit a five star rating and wait about 6 months.  If this part fails I will drop another star or two.  But at least I feel confortable knowing I can now order a more expensive part in the future and replace it myself.  That, at least to me, keeps my worries at bay.  I had thought this part was an original whirlpool part when I first ordered it and I did not realize it was a third-party part.  Time will tell if it works out for me, but as of right now I have the machine running washing one load at a time, two weeks of laundry that accumulated. That alone will pay for the cost of the kit comparied to going out to the laundromat.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3686, "id": 83503, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 501, "len_tokens": 663, "text": "I almost cried when my old dryer died, I hate buying new appliances. But I did search reviews for days and decided on the Amana Ned4500 and I've been happy ever since.\n\nIt's a nice looking dryer, bright white, blue knobs look cool. A nice change from black knobs.\n\nThere is a setting for 'energy preferred' which I have tried but it's not for me, yet I can see how someone else might love it. My experience with EP has been that no matter what I have in there, tees, towels, just sheets, whatever, they come out a little damp. Now, if you were trying to not shrink something, that would be a great setting! Or if you like to finish with a line dry for that summer scent on your laundry, then the EP (energy preferred) would be an awesome setting! So, I didn't take off for that on my review.\n\nI tend to pick one setting and run with it, so for me it's under Automatic Dry: VERY DRY. I love that setting. It does get everything, no matter what's in there, super dry. I have not seen any unusual wear and tear on my clothing from this setting so I'll keep using it.\n\nYou can choose from Timed Dry HIGH HEAT or Timed Dry LOW HEAT. I use high. When the buzzer sounds to let me know the dryer is done, my clothes are good and dry, not wrinkled and are ready to fold.  It also spins the clothes to avoid wrinkles if you miss the buzzer, which brings me to.......\n\nThe buzzer. OHMYGOSH It's the LOUDEST, LONGEST dryer buzzer on the planet, imo!  Wow, everyone hears it when it goes off, and it goes off for a while. BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZTTTTTTTT! It's like it's saying \"GET IN HERE, I'M DONE!!!! HURRY!\"\n\nThe buzzer, thankfully, can be turned off per load, which I do use.\n\nThe only issue I really have with this machine is the lint screen. No matter how I tried at first, the lint always fell back down before I could get the screen all the way out. You know how a dryer sometimes has that issue? Well, until I 'learned' how to really yank that screen out, the dryer lint ended up in my back yard. haha!  Not a big issue for anyone but my daffodils.  This may not be an issue with all makes and models, but for my specific dryer, I really had to fine-tune taking the lint screen out.\n\nI've done loads of all jeans, no problems. I've stuffed my huge comforter in there, no problem. I've dried (many) loads of just towels as we  have a pool, no problem!\n\nOverall, this is a great buy. Lots of room in there, a very quiet dryer by the way. Simple to use, no light but I've never had one in the dryer.  If you want to save some money and get a dryer that will work for a family, I recommend this one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3687, "id": 84401, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 478, "len_tokens": 611, "text": "For installation I'd give this unit a 3 1/2 out of 5  It does fit into a standard 30 inch cutout (good) but the gas inlet is in the far right rear corner of the unit and that interferes with cabinet installation if the unit is offset from the cabinet as in my case.  The NGM805 does also extend under the countertop more than the unit it replaced, so some cabinet surgery was needed to allow the cooktop to sit properly.  The hold-down attachment hardware was not thought through very well and had to be 'modified' to work properly.\n\nCooking: this unit gets a 5 out of 5 in my book.  Cooking control is AWESOME.  That's the advantage of gas--you have INSTANT & INFINITE control of your cooking and don't have to wait for burners to cool down as on electric cooktops.  The three sizes of burners let you do everything from large pots to warming chocolate and everything in between.  The previous reviewer \"Nice Guy\" just had never worked with a gas cooktop before, indeed the very things he complained about are discussed in the user's manual (\"Don't use a rounded WOK\" and \"Don't make the flame larger than the pot being used.\") The unit doesn't deserve a lower rating because the user was unfamiliar with the physics involved.  This baby cooks GREAT.\n\nIn 'chocolate warming mode' the small 5500 BTU burners can be turned down so low that I can't even see that the flame is on (I'm tall), so it's a good thing there's a light on the front panel that lets you know when the burner is on.  Automatic relight works fine in case a burner is blown out.\n\nThe grates are very stable, much more so than the unit it replaced, a 22 year-old Kenmore that had grates that slipped out of position when the pot/pan was tilted for stirring or extracting grease. They were a pain to get seated into position again.  With the Bosch I worry no more.\n\nThere's more effective cooking area workspace with the Bosch; the 5 burners give you more flexibility than the 4-burner competitors.\n\nCleanup: I give it 5 out of 5. No seams and rounded corners on the stainless top make cleanup MUCH easier than the old Kenmore unit.  The burners are raised from the stainless top, keeping the burners free of overspills.\n\nOnly gripe:  The control knobs stick up above the level of the grates by about a half inch, so you can bump the knob as you take a heavy pot off the cooktop if you don't lift it up.  Fortunately the knobs are metal and not plastic. (A lady in the store when we looked at this unit had to replace her melted platic knobs on a different make because of this problem)  With the metal knobs this shouldn't be a big problem.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3688, "id": 84573, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 578, "len_tokens": 693, "text": "Most of the positive reviews I've read here are about appearance and the ability to clean dishes.  Their is a conspicuous absence of people who like the product's performance, that also write that they've owned their unit for years without problems...  We bought ours 14 months ago, and the console went out after 8 months. The tech showed up and did something, but said he couldn't replicate the problem and suddenly the console worked!  But only for 5 more months... Now the console is completely dead and we have arranged for another tech to come out but will now be paying for it ourselves. In addition to the console we now have standing water in the tub, and the seals on around the unit are not functioning properly. Having been through two repair calls in 14 months we've learned some things about LG by talking with current or previous repair companies, and with LG directly:\n\n1) Service companies we spoke with that used to service LG appliances but stopped, or decided never to work with them to begin with, listed a couple of reasons:\n  a. they can't inventory parts for their customers, so they must return a second time - charging customers 2x - to complete a repair once the part comes in.  This is just bad business.\n  b. parts must be ordered from LG directly and take FOREVER (we've been told that we are going to be washing dishes by hand for the next 2 weeks while we wait for the part and repairs).\n  c. evidently LG is a complete pain in the arse to do business with - 3 of 4 repair firms we called for service said that there is plenty of business and they have chosen not to deal with LG.\n2) There appears to be a severe shortage of technicians that are readily available to service our dishwasher.  I've read about this issue from others, and am now living it myself.  We called the\n  one service company in our area (that is roughly 18 miles away) early Monday and were told that they would get to an LG repair no earlier than Friday afternoon.\n3) LG's service support STINKS.  They tend to be a bit rude/curt.  More importantly, LG's own policy for how they want to support their customers is OUTRAGEOUS!  They want you to call and\n  confirm service calls directly with the repair company for yourself etc... every time we deal with them I find myself not believing what they're saying - zero confidence - based on our experience with them.\n\nIn a nutshell - we love how our dishwasher looks and how it washes dishes (but in this day and age you can get a 10 year old Maytag to wash well by buying high end detergent and using a rinse) - but it is poorly designed and breaks down LOOONGGG before it should, and LG as a company cannot be trusted to support what it sold you in an efficient manner.  They have a customer satisfaction questionnaire after you call their service center, but it asks all the wrong questions about \"how polite and knowledgeable\" the call center employee was...as he tells you that his hands are tied and you are on your own with your newer appliance that has broken down again...\n\nNEVER AGAIN WILL WE PURCHASE AN LG APPLIANCE - by the way our kitchen is 100% LG today, but will be 0% 18 months from now...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3689, "id": 85648, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 562, "len_tokens": 693, "text": "As everyone else here has said, my Samsung Dryer would run, but no heat. After some quick research on the internet I noticed that a burnt out element was a common issue on these guys, so I Amazon Primed (Aka Magic'd) me one of these bad boys.. 24 hours later, it's showed up at my front door.\n\nSo, I decided to take this project on myself. I called around and was quoted about $300 for the install -- Which seemed expensive, but there were very few 'Samsung Authorized' repair shops in my area, and most places wanted diagnosis fees and crap... So, I figured $300 buys A LOT of beer, so I might as well try this out myself.\n\nSo, on a scale of 1 to 10, I'd rate the install a 3-4. I would compare the skill set needed for this would be around that to confidently assemble a child's toy and then install a light-dimmer, since the hardest part is really disassembly and being confident that the dryer is unplugged. I actually found a video online where someone does the install from the back of the dryer, but that is not needed. The front of the dryer comes apart VERY easily. The tricky part is pulling the element box out, and making sure the thermostats get connected back properly.\n\nQuick Steps:\n1. Take out screws for the top (on the back of the dryer). Slide lid off.\n2. Take screws out for control panel. pop out. Unplug (Mine had 2 plugs).\n3. Take screws out for front panel (Top). Pull up slowly and out and it pops out. There is a plug here too for the light.\n4. Unscrew/Pull out dryer vent duct work.\n\n(Note: At this time, you can use an Ohm meter to test the element. The front two grey leads on the box will be the ones you wanna use. This will make it so if the element is not the problem, you can re-assemble and call an expert and save yourself some time)\n\n5. On the bottom right, there is a metal box. Has 3 screw's and a stand. Take out the screws, and pull out the stand. (The stand has tangs on the bottom that anchor it into the dryer. Might need to squeeze a lil to get it out.\n6. As you pull the box out, disconnect the leads to the element, and the two thermostats. Note the color/location of the wires.\n7. Have a beer.\n8. Open the box, replace element, and then do the steps above in reverse.\n\nAlso, make sure you keep track of where the screws went. Some go into plastic, and some into metal. You don't wanna mix those up, and the metal screws can split the plastic.\n\nThis is also a very good time to figure out WHY the element burnt out. Check all of your exhaust piping, and make sure the vent flap outside is not stuck/clogged (Which mine was). If there is a lot of lint inside your dryer, it's most likely a blockage issue The reason these elements are prone to burning out is the amount of airflow needed to keep them cool.\n\nGood Luck!!\n\nP.s. Anyone find it aggravating that they have a \"Smart\" dryer, yet it's too dumb to tell you that the element is burnt out? Silly Samsung.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3690, "id": 88963, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 512, "len_tokens": 632, "text": "I only wish I had read these reviews BEFORE I bought this machine!  I bought it from a small local appliance dealer who I've bought all of my appliances from when I redid my kitchen.  He is very well known and very well respected.  When my old Maytag died, Oct. 2011, I, of course, went to this dealer.  They told me everyone LOVED this machine.  The salesman even told me when he buys another machine, this is the one he will buy.  They actually steered me away from buying a front-load machine.  WELL, if I had the money, I would put this out front with a \"Free\" sign.  I can't bring myself to sell it, because I would feel too guilty!\n\nI put up with it for 2 months, leaving lint and whatever all over my dark clothes, before I went back to the dealer with my daughter's slacks that were an absolute mess.  They told me they didn't blame me, but I was the first person who had complained and that everyone else just loved their machine.  At that time, I told them I was going to sell it and asked what else could I look at?  They told me they would schedule a service call to see what the problem was and if they couldn't fix it to call them and they would see what they could do.  The service men found that my original hoses (that were newer flexible metal hoses) that connected the machine to the water supply were not letting enough water through.  They said they could hear the water flow and knew something was wrong.  So, at no cost to me, they replaced the hoses with regular rubber hoses.  They also said I should use the extra rinse.  I told them I was on a well and I didn't like having to do that and DIDN'T have to do that with my Maytag.  They said the newer machines did not even come close to using the same amount of water that my Maytag had, so it wouldn't be a problem with my well.  Plus, they said, you really needed to use the extra rinse with these newer machines, because of all the regulations the government had imposed on these appliance companies.\n\nWell, that's been 2 months ago and it is STILL leaving residue on my dark clothes.  I absolutely HATE this machine, but now I'm stuck with it.  I even went to Lowes and was asking them about machines.  I finally told the saleswoman what problems I was having and she did admit that the rep from Whirlpool (who I just missed) was explaining to them how you should place your clothes around the outside, wash like fabrics with like fabrics...blah, blah, blah, so the washer would wash your clothes better.  Geez, I didn't know you needed a college education to wash clothes, PLUS the time it would take to wash twice as many loads!\n\nBottom line, DON'T BUY THIS WASHER!  Go look at the reviews for the front-load Samsung's -- they are MUCH better reviews.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3691, "id": 88971, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 538, "len_tokens": 679, "text": "This is the first time I have ever wanted to give something zero stars.\n\nWe moved to a new house about a year ago, and this is the washing machine that came with the house. Let me tell you, this thing is a worthless piece of junk. Maybe you're into saving energy and water. I understand that. But I'm sure you also like having clean clothes to wear. If I'm right, then under no circumstances do you want to own this washing machine.\n\nMost washing machines work like so: You put in your clothes, pour on some detergent, select water level, water temperature, type of wash, etc, press start or something to that effect. The washing machine then FILLS UP WITH WATER, and swishes your clothes around, loosening up dirt, stains, etc. Then there's some combination of draining, rinsing, spinning, etc. When all is said and done, your clothes are completely wet, but not dripping. They smell fresh, and are ready to go in the dryer or air dry.\n\nThis piece of junk works nothing like that. You will put your clothes in, put in detergent, and choose the kind of load you're washing (towels, bulky items, whites, colored, etc). You choose water temperature, soil level. You do not have the option of choosing the water level.\n\nOnce you press start, the washing machine shoots out about 2 cups of soapy water on the entire load, and then spins around like it's on the spin cycle for about 30 seconds. Then it stops, shoots out another 2 cups of soapy water, then spins around some more. As it's spinning, the water is not accumulating, so that it eventually fills up. No...it just keeps draining as it spins, then repeating the whole thing over again. I've stared at this thing through the glass, and I'm thinking, how is it supposed to wash the clothes this way? Well, when you come back an hour later, you have your answer. IT DOESN'T. When you take your clothes out, they're damp. When you open up shirts, socks, and pants, oh, what's this?, DRY SPOTS. Places that didn't even get touched once by the little spurts of water. So now your clothes are damp, and a little musty smelling, and some look dirtier than they did before they went in. I've tried washing a full load of clothes, and I've tried washing just a few things, thinking maybe it can only handle a small load. No, it doesn't matter.\n\nWe haven't experienced the mechanical problems that the other reviewers have mentioned. Just the product design. It's inherently flawed. It makes you wonder, did they test this thing out before they put it on the market? Even the concept of a washing machine that doesn't fill up with water....What the foe!!!..????  Even a child knows that that won't work. Trust me on this. Trust the other negative reviewers on this. We're all trying to spare you the pain in the butt and waste of money, trips to the laundry mat, etc. You are much better off buying yourself a regular washing machine. But who knows. Maybe there's an energy efficient machine out there that actually washes your clothes. But this aint it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3692, "id": 88983, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 502, "len_tokens": 630, "text": "I am writing due to the piece of crap Cabrio we purchased exactly 4 years ago this week:\nThis was the review I wrote after having this piece of crap one month:\nI bought the Cabrio on 10/9/06 and by 10/23/06 it was not working properly. I contacted Whirlpool on 11/9/06 and they informed me that they needed to send a repairman out. It has several problems. The load is out of balance (UL) or I get an error \"F51\" every single time I try to wash a load. My husband and I are the only ones in our household so the machine is not abused (By teenagers etc). The repairman was at our house for 3 1/2 hours on 11/14/06. He ordered a wiring harness, a computer board and a censor for this 1 MONTH OLD MACHINE. I called Whirlpool in frustation simply asking them to take this LEMON back. They offered nothing and they were quite rude in the process. They said my only option was to have my machine repaired....and so the circle begins.\nOur last set was a Maytag and we had the set (still are using the dryer) for over 12 years. Boy how we regret going to Whirlpool. Please take my advice and SAVE YOUR MONEY. I would hate for anyone to go through what Whirlpool has put us through.\nBTW...my BRAND NEW machine is sitting idle until the repairman can come out IN A WEEK (for another 3 1/2 hours) to put in these parts that he HOPES will work.\nUPDATE:\nIt is now exactly 4 years later and the only reason I suffer with this machine is due to the fact we PAID SOOOO MUCH MONEY FOR IT!!\nThe front is now rusted out!!! YES, RUSTED OUT!! And, it takes me about a day to wash ONE LOAD of Laundry...I get an \"F1\" (I believe it should be FU) about 4 times at the beginning of a load and then when it goes to rinse I get an F1 again approximately 3 times!!  Sometimes I have to start from scratch with an entirely different setting.\nThe only satisfaction I've gotten over the past 4 years is writing horrible reviews on your product and making sure everyone I talk to about laundry (and it's a lot more times than any normal person should have to talk about laundry!!) how they should NEVER spend a dime on a whirlpool!\nThis is an absolute piece of crap and I cannot believe you have never done a thing to rectify this situation!!\nSo sad that you could have and should have taken care of this FOUR YEARS Ago!\nWhen my husband calls your useless 800 number he just gets sent around in a big circle and then is told you are CLOSED.\nI will never buy another Whirl pool product as long as I live!!\nPlease do something about this piece of crap taking up space in my laundry room and BEEPING at me ALL DAY LONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3693, "id": 89515, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 532, "len_tokens": 638, "text": "I have over the last 20 years owned 4 trash compactors, one Whirlpool and two Sears models, and they they might have been made by Whirlpool anyhow. The compactor is built in under our center isle. When our last Sears model broke, I wanted to see what was available that might be higher quality and perhaps higher capacity. I was not unhappy with the three models I had before, and the pickins are slim in this category. But I found the Broan and after reading the reviews, decided to take the plunge. Here is what I found:\n\n1. You must have a garbage disposal in you sink to deal with organic trash. The house had one when we bought it, and honestly, it is one of the wondrous inventions of the 21st century! All organic trash goes down the drain, so that you are only throwing away paper and plastic essentially, and should never have an issue with odors, although the Broan seems to have an effective odor control feature. Don't really know because out garbage never has a chance to smell.\n2. The capacity of this compactor is somewhere near twice the capacity of the other models. This means two things. 1. Fewer trips to the outside garbage can. Fewer bags used. Because of the generous capacity, the unit does not really need or seem to be compacting unless a tremendous amount of trash is in it. We empty the bag once a week because we have once a week garbage pick-up. Honestly, there are weeks when I could go another week because of the excess capacity, but the wife says out is goes! We are a family of 4 or 5 people, by the way, and I think we generate an above average amount of garbage.\n3. The front mounted release door( behind the front cabinet door- more on that later)  is a breeze compared to the side release of the Sears. The bag goes in easy and comes out just the same. The plastic lined paper bags of the Sears unit was a real pain to fit into the drawer, and just as hard when really full to get out. Also, those paper bags were really difficult to seal, where the plastic Broan bags are not.\n4. Relativly quite when operating, and the compact hold on schedule feature is really nice.\n\nNow the complaint.  You must swing open the front door, and at least 90 degrees and pull out the drawer to put trash in the container. This is a two step process if you do not want to keep the door open 90 degrees and the drawer sicking out into the kitchen all day to throw away track. The Sears unit, which was IMHO a better design. The \"door\" was the facia of the garbage drawer, and had a no hands step lever which levered the draw open 6 to 8 inches so you could throw away trash. Simple, easy , and so much less intrusive then an open door and a manally pulled out drawer!\n\nOver all, I put up with it because of the other advantages, and it really seems to be a well built, solid machine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3694, "id": 94871, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 510, "len_tokens": 600, "text": "Edit:  See update below.\n\nI was captivated by the drawer idea from the moment I saw the machine and had to have it.  A dishdrawer was installed in 2004 and it just had its third service call since then.  The first two calls totaled about $700 and the third one is for $500, and I'm just about done with the brand.  The drawer design is great as I'm tall and don't need to bend over as much to load dishes.  I like the simplicity of the magnetic motor, and Fisher & Paykel was good enough to send a new motor without charge and out of warranty when one was damaged by a broken piece of glass that got sucked into it.  It was quiet in the early years but maybe it's me because it seems to have gotten louder over time.  I like being able to do small loads without having to wait to fill a traditional dishwasher, and during parties I can start one load while waiting for the other drawer to be filled.  I would give the dishes a quick rinse before loading and rarely had a problem getting them clean that didn't have to do with a loading fault of mine.  Space for cookie sheets and larger pots can be a bit smaller than a traditional dishwasher, but the convenience of the drawer design was worth the occasional hand-washing.\n\nI really loved the machine but the latest repair estimate has me shopping for a different brand while trying to justify buying another Fisher & Paykel because of the reliability and price.  Servicing the machines is spotty since most repairmen don't know them well, and getting parts all the way from New Zealand takes longer than If they were stocked at least in my county (the U.S.).\n\nIt's said a dishwasher can be expected to operate for 10 years and I got seven plus an extra $700 in between, so I'm not sure I want to stick with the brand, especially after so many recent negative reviews.\n\nUpdate, Feb. 11, 2013:  Since installing a replacement dishdrawer in November 2012 the new machine has worked flawlessly after a warranty repair one week after installation.  I also need to update the service comment - F&P now has qualified repairmen and parts are stocked in the U.S. - two changes which are big improvements in my confidence in the product and repair times.\n\nThe new machine was professionally installed, which makes a big difference in its performance and is highly recommended.  The installer also offered advice on how to get the dishes really clean every time:  the higher the water temperature the cleaner the dishes because the detergent dissolves and cleans better and the grime on the dishes wash off cleaner.  He said NOT to use the Eco setting because it doesn't get the water hot enough, and for the best results, to have heated water flow into the machine from the beginning of the cycle and not depend on the machine's heating element.  The advice has served me well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3695, "id": 95466, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 509, "len_tokens": 625, "text": "This is the second Water Sentinel WSS-1 filter I bought from Amazon. These filters are $10 - $15 cheaper than the OEM filters. We've used the OEM filters a few times, but saving $15 and getting a filter of similar quality is more important than name brand replacements. Below are a few features I think are important.\n\nEase of Installation\nNot too bad. These filters are a little bit larger than the OEMs, so I needed to remove the upper shelf to install. After filter installation the shelf can be replaced at its original position. It's very simple to install. Open the package, remove the red cap, lube the o-rings with included lube, remove the old filter, and twist in the new filter. Takes a few minutes at most. A little bit of water will drip after removing the old filter, nothing to worry about though.\n\nFirst Time Use\nAfter install, you should run a few gallons of water through the filter to clear out the carbon dust and air pockets. The manual says 5 mins of water, Samsung says ~3 gallons. I did ~7 quarts of flushing this time. The first 2 quarts will be quite black from the carbon dust. Definitely flush with another 2 quarts to remove any further dust. Filter another 2 quarts for good measure. I think a couple gallons or 3-4 mins of flushing is sufficient.  The water will taste a bit funny for the first few gallons, but nothing that will impact your health or to be concerned about. After a few days of use the water does taste much, much better.\n\nTaste\nSubjectively, I think the taste is a little bit worse than the OEMs; the water is sort of flat. I'd say it's about 80-90% on par with the OEM filtering. The water doesn't taste horrible and you get used to the taste quite rapidly. The filtered water tastes \"cleaner\" than regular tap water. It does remove some of the minerals which does leave a flatter taste, but it's nothing like distilled water. The taste does improve after about 10 gallons of usage. I guess it's the residual carbon dust and other stuff from manufacturing that slowly comes out after the initial filtering.\n\nLongevity\nI bought our previous WSS-1 filter on July 10 and the check filter light on the fridge came on about 5 months later. I think the check filter light is time based rather than usage based, but I could be wrong. Anyway, these filters are rated for about 300 gallons. We use quite a bit of filtered water, so I'm not surprised we'd go through the filter quicker. A five month replacement cycle isn't bad at all.\n\n4 out of 5 stars because of a little bit of inconvenience with installation and a taste not quite as good (but by no means bad) as an OEM. Try this filter out once, you should be pretty happy with it, especially since the price is much cheaper. I think we'll continue buying this replacement filter in the future.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3696, "id": 96601, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 545, "len_tokens": 647, "text": "After thourough research on sears, home depot and consumer reports I bought the GE Profile WPRE6150KWT 'colossal' capacity top loading energy star washer and matching gas dryer in 7/09.  I wanted a top loading washer but also an energy efficient one and this one seemed to fit the bill. They were purchased through sears over the phone and came as described without any hiccups. Then the problems started.\n\nFirst, I should state the matching gas dryer is wonderful and have nothing but high remarks for it.\n\nI noticed clothes weren't being cleaned as thourough as they should be, with previously easily removed stains remaining afterward. After a couple weeks we noticed some torn clothing but couldn't attribute it to anything specifically. As time went on clothes just started to smell dirty on coming out of the dryer. On investigation some clothes weren't even gettig wet when set on the 'colossal' load setting (which is a joke).\n\nAs time continued (a couple months down the line) nicer, new clothing was torn, sometimes noticed while being worn, were torn!  At this point I contacted Sears which stated I was just beyond the 90 day return policy and nothing could be done from their end.  AND, when I called the store I didn't actually reach the store with the area code I dialed but a phone center.  The sales rep said had I come into the store he would have told me this washer was not very effective and I likely would have bought another.  So I worked on contacting GE directly.\n\nI called the customer service number on the webpage and was sent to a message center.  After multiple repeated calls (repeatedly dropped calls in mid conversation or directed to the 'wrong department') I finally had to talk to a GE rep who happened to be at Sears one day to get a service tech to come to the house to evaluate the washer under warranty.\n\nThe technician found nothing wrong with the washer but that I was probably overfilling the machine.  He felt that filling the tub any more than half full was too much and this machine will work best with small loads.  So much for being energy efficient, water efficient or 'colosal capacity'!!!\n\nI emailed GE this time after my frustration with calling them and had no response for weeks.  Finally a month later recieved a letter in the mail stating 'thank you for your support of our fine company' or something along those lines and 'if your concern has not yet been resolved please call us' (the same number I had a fun time with before).\n\nI called and someone actually picked up.  But disappointedly was told there is nothing they will do as it is working properly.\n\nSo here I was with a new washer that doesn't wash clothes well and no support from the sales department or manufacturer.  In the end I figured the best thing I could do with it is sell it online and be truthful of the problems that I had with it ( I couldn't in any fair means trick someone into my own problems).  It's gone.  Now I have the front loading Kenmore that is rated #1 on consumerreports.com and I am very happy.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3697, "id": 96756, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 488, "len_tokens": 652, "text": "Prior to purchasing, initial research pointed to a replacement OEM or equivalent to Whirpool part# 2198597.  The least expensive aftermarket unit on Amazon that cross referenced to #2198597 was the Supco RIM597.  Seemed straight forward enough and I was about to purchase when I noticed that, at the time of order, the RIM597 wasn't offered as Amazon Same Day Prime shipping, rather it was 3rd party shipped.\nGiven the specific scheduling circumstance I was under a time crunch to get this done and couldn't wait the extra 5-7 days ship time.\n\nSo, I noticed that the Supco RIM900 was offered as Prime Same Day and appeared identical to the RIM597.  So I reached out to the mfg; reviewed the respective model's spec PDFs; as well as received direct emailed responses from Supco's tech support.  Additionally two respondents to my Amazon Q/A (one of which appeared to be from an experienced seller).  All of the feedback and data confirmed they they are identical units despite the marketing materials which would lead one to believe otherwise.  The only difference: RIM900 does NOTE include a new wiring harness.\n\nSo you would 1)Use your existing harness or  2)Use a separately purchased new harness--note, a new harness alone cost upwards of $25 - $30 (..ya, it's silly)\nIs there an issue with using your existing harness? No, unless the inline thermal fuse of the existing harness is the root culprit of your non-functioning ice maker...and based on my queries, this is not common).\n\nIn my case the RIM900 along with my existing harness took <8 minutes from start to finish; and the pleasing sounds of ice dropping began within about 3 hours.\n\nSimple recommendation: If your replacement calls for a RIM597 and you don't mind that it's not listed as Prime (again, at the time that I write this review, it was not, but it may be now...), you should order the RIM597.\nWhy?  because the price difference between the RIM597 and the RIM900 is negligible ($1.71 more for the RIM597); and since the RIM597 includes a new wire harness (which you likely won't need) and in the off-chance that the existing harness is the culprit, it's worth the extra $1.71 to have it just in case.\n\nAlso, there is a lot of misinformation around what is included and what isn't for the RIM900.\nIn the Q/A several people indicated that a \"new wiring harness is included\".  This is incorrect.  It's possible that the mfg simply isn't consistent in what they pack, but according to Supco's tech support, the RIM900 NEVER included a harness.  So, again, the one I received came with only a replacement metal swing arm (note, if your fridge uses an elec. eye, you will not use this BUT YOU MUST REMEMBER TO ENSURE THAT THE SWING ARM SWITCH POSITION IN THE THE \"ON\" SETTING WHICH IS IN THE 'DOWN' ORIENTATION).\n\nHope this helps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3698, "id": 98480, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 512, "len_tokens": 675, "text": "DO NOT buy this refrigerator  (Electrolux French door with ice maker in the door)  - you will be SORRY!  Mine is 14 months old and repairman has been out  15 times to fix the ice maker and it still will not make  A CUBE OF ICE!  It has worked some , on and off for the  first year I had it,  but no ice after  12 months .  And it only makes enough ice for 3 glasses.  So if you have a family of  4 - 5 ,  you will have to buy Ice.  I found that out for Thanksgiving,  when after I filled 3 glasses it was EMPTY!  So had to send a family member to BUY bags of ice  real fast!!!  Also - they get you with having to purchase air and water filters  every so often.  I agree with the water filter - but the air filter to me is another gimmick for them to get more money!  And they are NOT CHEAP!\nThe service man has been out 15 times to work on  the ice maker.  He has replaced the entire thing 3 times in 1 year.  I figured I had better buy the  $488  3 yr warranty -  because I knew it was going to be trouble.  Electrolux offer me a GENERAOUS  \"NOT\"  60%  of the  $3400 I paid,  toward another one.  Mine was only a few months old  - and I was only going to get  60% of it.  They would NOT even stand behind their pile of junk for  a year!  We continued to negotiate  and they finally offered me a new one,  but wouldn't let me transfer the  $488  warranty I just bought to the new one.  SO I said no.  Finally they agreed for 2 yrs full warranty  instead of 3 yrs.  It has been a month and I have not heard a word from them after their promise of a new one for me.  I have called twice in the last 2 weeks - leaving messages to please let me know what is going on and they will not return my call.  So now I am sure they were blowing Smoke up my rear end.\nI am just saying,  save yourself a lot of time, money and heartache and FIND ANYTHING else out there,  but I strongly suggest staying away from Electrolux products.  Also - I was very skeptical about having an ice maker in the refrigerator part.  I questioned the salesman and everyone on that.  I just didn't see the work-a-bility of that!  And now I know my common sense was RIGHT ON THE MARK!  I will never buy another refrigerator with the ice maker in the refridge part!~  I will stick to only ice makers in the FREEZER part!  Either TOP - Bottom - or  Side  by side  \"Freezer part.  I suggest that highly when looking for refrigerators.  And my repairman that has been out here 15 times -  said he would never recommend  ice makers in the refrigerator  part - because he hasn't found many that work for very  long.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3699, "id": 99370, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 501, "len_tokens": 607, "text": "I have owned several different Temperature/Humidity meters over the years. Since every room in the house has a different humidity reading depending on how many windows are in the room or which direction it faces, we always like to know the humidity to keep the rooms all more normal and similar. We have the worst humidity in a bedroom on the north wall with large windows. For anyone with any collectibles, keeping the humidity out of the room means not damaging your collectibles or items from too much damp or mildew.\n\nMy brother has an expensive weather meter system, as he has a large collection of remote control planes- many fabric made, so I always have something 100% accurate to compare my meters to. This Amprobe Relative Humidity & Temperature Meter is actually the most accurate meter I have ever owned. We tested this inside, outside, even in crawl spaces and duct work to see the results. The temperature was always 100% accurate, whether it was ambient, dew point or wet bulb.\n\nAs for the humidity temperature readings- we found this Amprobe to be off by 1/2 to 1 % depending on where the reading was taken.  Inside duct work- it was off by only 1/2 %, but in a room or outside it was off by 1%.  This is the most accurate meter I have ever owned. I had owned a Pyle meter that was always off by 6-10%, and a Fluke that was off by 4-6 % on the humidity readings. My best meter before this Amprobe was made by Ambient Weather- the humidity was off by just 2 %. The temperature readings on all my meters was always pretty accurate- it's the humidity readings that are never completely accurate.\n\nThis Amprobe THWD-3 Relative Humidity and Temperature Meter comes with the meter itself, a removable protective metal sensor cap, black carrying case with belt loop, 9 V battery, User's Manual and a Wet Bulb Chart. There is an On/Off Switch- which automatically turns off should you forget to turn it off after 30 minutes. The Min/Max button allows you to use it for memory. The Hold button allows you to hold the present reading. The DP/WB button gives you the Dew Point Temperature or Wet Bulb Temperature- which came out 100% accurate. The last button is for your readings in either Celsius or Fahrenheit temperatures. There is also a Low Battery Warning picture.\n\nBesides being the most accurate Temperature/Humidity Meter I have owned to date, I found when you remove the protective metal sensor cap, the reading is given in a few seconds- way faster than with the cap on. You just have to take more care that the sensor is not damaged when the cap is off. This is a great, well made, extremely accurate temperature and humidity meter and is definitely worth 5 Stars, being the most accurate meter I have ever owned, and Amprobe even warrants this meter for a year, making it well worth buying.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3700, "id": 99447, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 553, "len_tokens": 646, "text": "Here is a letter I sent to Maytag about the above:\nMaytag customer service.\nTo whom it may concern,\nI purchased a Maytag Centennial washer; model number MVWC6ESWW0, serial number cy3241548 in August 2009. It is now broken. The machine fills and agitates as soon as you turn it on. It also \"dumps\" more water onto the clothes after the final spin cycle making them unfit to dry.\n\n I contacted you and got a negative response to my complaint. I was told it is now out of warranty and I had no recourse to fix it other than calling a \"Maytag Repairman\" and pay the full price of the repair. The broken part in question is the water control switch part number W10177795.\n\nI feel this is unfair due to the many instances of problems others are encountering with this particular repair. I found these on You Tube.\n\nI did some checking to purchase the necessary part and found the part number was changed to W10292584. This tells me the original part was apparently defective and poorly designed therefore necessitating the engineering of a new part to fix the defect.\n\nFurther evidence of a defective part (worthy of a recall) is the fact that part number W10292584 is on backorder from the factory due to high demand. Obviously there is a problem here that goes beyond normal wear and tear. I think it is a shame a Maytag product should fail after a little over two years after purchase.\n\nI feel I should be at least reimbursed for the part in question which I purchased from Marcone appliance parts. I purchased from them because I receive a discount for being a Lowe's employee. I was told the part would be shipped in 3 to 5 business days but now I have been informed it will not be in stock before January 1st 2012.\n\nTo add injury to insult my wife and I now have to take our clothes to a Laundromat costing us twenty two dollars to clean our clothes per week. You times that for the five weeks waiting for the part and it totals well over a hundred dollars out of pocket.\n\nMy mother owned a Maytag washer and dryer for years with out any problems.\nThis was one of the leading reasons I bought Maytag.\nI have had a Maytag dryer at least 5 rears which is serving me very well.\n\nAs I told the representative who called me the first time I reported this, I will not even consider or recommend Maytag products due to the poor response I received initially.\n\nI know this is not related to this but I had a Sony Television which \"claimed \"it would be the last Television I would ever need to buy and it failed after 5 years. It had been under a silent recall of which I was not made aware of until it was too late. I found this information on the internet. They eventually gave me a substantial discount on a new Sony TV after I emailed them a second time. Though this was not what I expected, it eased the pain of having to buy a new one.\n\nI am not expecting a free washer just compensation for a defective part that should not have failed so quickly.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3701, "id": 99976, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 523, "len_tokens": 666, "text": "Works great - with a few exceptions. Don't get me wrong, we totally enjoy our wonderwash. It's a really fun way to do small loads of laundry -- of course, we're in our early/mid-20's, so perhaps not everyone will agree. My review is based upon the wonderwash' usage as a SOLE washing machine for typical laundry. This means that for several months, we only used the wonderwash for every item that would fit, and did not have another washing machine. I don't think the product design holds up to that standard.. if it were just for camping/treks, it would have 5 stars.\n\nPros\n-------\n~The hand-crank is very easy to use -- despite the actual weight when the washer's full, spinning & tumbling is exceptionally easy, so major points for thoughtful engineering there.\n\n~It's much more efficient than a traditional washing machine. Don't even worry about your water bill.. because you're barely using anything! If you're an apartment dweller like me, though.. you have had to deal with coin-operated washers and watch your money disappear. Not with the Wonder Wash. Yes, it's money up-front, but our family recouped that money within months and has saved hundreds on laundry.\n\n~Clothes seem to genuinely get cleaner than with a traditional machine. This is entirely subjective, and only an observation on my end - our denims, washed with the wonderwash instead of through our coin-op laundry, seemed to be genuinely cleaner. The fabric was more pliable, pants were more comfortable, and everything put through seemed to be CLEANER.\n\nCONS\n------------\n~Load size is very small. I would purchase a redesigned product again, if it were 3x as large. That would, of course, necessitate a swap to a heavier frame, EG Stainless Steel.. but would be worth it. With an overall time of 30 minutes per load, I can't recommend this for anyone with a kid that hasn't learned how to pee in a toilet vs. whatever she happens to be wearing. Luckily, we're past that stage now.. but the wonderwash got beaten to bits from extremely heavy use (Another PRO, it held up GREAT!)\n\n~The \"watertight\" seal on the lid proved to be.. not watertight. It held up for the very first load, but all subsequent loads.. it simply leaked. Now, from what my knowledge is, that lack of water-tight seal meant a loss of pressure, which meant less efficient washing. That's true, but ours worked pretty well for what we expected out of it. If I were to purchase this product again, it would have to have a redesigned seal system that holds up past the first use.\n\n~ The frame is not built heavily enough. It's a lightweight plastic frame that you assemble using plugs, which are prone to fall out during usage. We lost a few of those plugs just from standard usage. Because of the frame's weight disadvantage, when it's fully loaded, it does seem to \"sway\" side to side and be affected by the rotation of the bin. If I was going to purchase it again, I would need to have something like a lightweight steel or more overbuilt plastic frame.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3702, "id": 100380, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 515, "len_tokens": 627, "text": "We built a little cottage on the water to replace our river house after it was destroyed by Hurricane Katrina.  Got the plans from the Lowe's website in August 2008 and built the little 700 sq ft cottage we now live in. Because of the dimensions, we were very limited in what kind of appliances we could put in.  The Bosch washer/dryer set stacked together exactly perfectly in the very small closet we had downstairs.  They remind me a lot of the washer and dryers you run across if you spend much time traveling in Europe or the Middle East.  Because of the cost of utilities overseas, these systems are designed to be extremely energy efficient.  They're also the quietest systems we've ever owned...they need to be, because not only are they in a tiny house, they're stacked in the closet immediately outside of our bedroom.  We never have trouble sleeping while they're running, as long as we're not washing or drying something like dog collars with a lot of metal parts.  They are unique for an American to use...unlike the dryer I grew up that just blasts heat non-stop, this system will take longer to dry your clothes, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.  It uses a little more gentle heat, and rather than running continuously, it runs silently for a few minutes, stops to let the heat it's built up continue to dry the clothes without motion for a few minutes, then runs again.  That's what makes it so energy efficient.  We've had ours for about four and a half years and have done nothing other than clean the filter with each load.  The only downside I've found with it is that we'd like to buy a new lint filter because the filter light is starting to stay on, and the bosch website is fairly useless for providing detail on how to purchase what I would assume would be the most often touched/highest wear and tear part.  You can find every single nut/bolt/spring on this device on the bosch website, but you apparently can't buy the filter there...that seems like more than a minor oversight.  Anyway, I would rate the dryer a five star for our situation.  I'd give the washing machine a four star, primarily because no matter how much you clean the gasket on the door, it develops large mildew spots quickly if you don't dry out the gasket, and if you ever decide to take the gasket off to try to clean it more, you need an SEC football offensive lineman to help you get the spring that holds the gasket in place BACK on to the machine.  Other than that, it's actually fairly easy to service a lot of the things yourself, and I've never thought highly of my ability to work on appliances.  We're building a bigger house now and we're going to go all Bosch on that one as well, although we'll look at getting a larger Bosch washer/dryer if they make them...but if it comes down to it, I'd buy the exact same ones again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3703, "id": 100384, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 491, "len_tokens": 633, "text": "I purchased a Bosch washer (model WAS20160UC) and dryer  (model WTV76100US) set in December 2011.  This is the experience I have had with the Bosch appliances.  It is a vented dryer, not the condensation model.  This review is mostly about the dryer.\n\nPros:  Stylish (witch makes no difference since the dryer is so poor)\n\nCons:  This dryer takes very long to dry even small loads.  It  will get warm but not hot.  A Bosch technician measured the temperature of the dryer at 122 degrees Fahrenheit.  But, he informed me that this was normal for this dryer.  In one test; two bath towels, two hand towels, and one facial towel were washed in the washer and rinsed on maximum spin to remove as much of the water as possible.  It took the dryer 1hr. 20 min. to dry the load.  After many phone calls and 3 or 4 service calls, they replaced the dryer.  It performed as poorly as the first. So, I called an electrician to really find out what was going on.  With freshly washed towels in the dryer, he observed the dryer drawing 10 amps (about the maximim rating) for 15 to 20 seconds.  Then it went down to 5 amps for about about 30 seconds (he described it as half heat) then down to room temperature air coming out of the exhaust for another couple minutes.  It repeats this cycle.  At no time does the dryer actually get hot enough to remove the moisture from the load.  It mostly just uses ambiant temperature air to dry the clothes.  If touch the clothes in the middle of the load, they mearly feel slightly warm. While it is not practical for most people to use a clothes line, I think it would be just as effective as this dryer.\n\nThe thing that bugs me the most about this whole debacle is this:  Both Bosch and the appliance store had the attitude that I should just accept the poor performance because it is a European design.  I heard many excuses defending an appliance that I truly believe they KNOW does not perform as it should.\n\nIf you buy a coffee maker, do you expect it to make coffee in about 15 minutes?  If you buy a blender, do you expect it to blend what you put in it?  Well, when you buy a DRYER, you kind of expect it to actively dry.\n\nIn fairness, this washer/dryer set may be suitable for a single person who does small loads of laundry.  You can expect a small load to take 60 minutes to wash and 80 minutes to dry.  So you are right around 3.5 to 4 hours for two small loads.\n\nUpdate:  The appliance store has taken back the Bosch washer and dryer.  I have replaced them with a GE unitized washer/dryer (model GTUP240EWH)  This dryer completely dried the same load in 30 minutes.\n\nI hope this review is helpful for you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3704, "id": 100393, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 600, "len_tokens": 682, "text": "I have had the Wonder Wash for a couple of weeks right now and after doing a few loads of laundry, I can say this thing does work rather well, but there are a set of rules you want to fallow in order to ensure it gets your laundry clean.\n\n1) Don't use a lot of laundry detergent. You will need about a third of what you would normally use for a small load of laundry. Anymore than that and you are going to be stuck rinsing and wringing out your clothes for ages before you get rid of all the detergent. Also, I did use both liquid and powder detergent. I found liquid worked much better because powder detergent always seemed to leave spots on clothes. While they where not that noticeable on things like jeans or light color clothes, they stuck out like a sore thumb on my black t-shirts.\n\n2) Get a lint brush. While it will get a lot of the stuck on junk like lint and hair off your clothes, it will not get a of it and that's especially true with hair. Earlier this week I got a hair cut and even after washing the t-shirt I was wearing a couple of times, there was still a bunch of hair left. So get a lint brush and run it over your clothes a few times before washing them. This way you won't have to wash your clothes more than once.\n\n3) Small loads work best. I can't stress this enough, do not try to cram this thing full and expect your clothes to get clean. Three to four t-shirts or two to three jeans at a time is about all you want to put in the Wonder Wash. You have to remember, just like a washing machine, you want to leave enough room for your clothes to move around as they are being washed. If you have this thing so full your clothes can't move around as it spins, you are NOT going to get anything clean.\n\n4) This is not a full replacement for a washing machine. While it will do a great job getting your everyday ware clean, work of heavily stained clothes will still need to be  thrown through the washer. Sure if you are willing to spend 4 hours washing you chefs  jacket or mechanics shirt, you might get it clean, you can do it. But, do you really want to waste all that time and effort? Not only that, you are going to have to scrub the heck out of your Wonder Wash afterwards to ensure you don't pass on any grit and grime to your other clothing\n\n5) Washing your clothes will take longer than you expect and will require some honest effort. You are not going to be able to throw a load into the Wonder Wash hardly spin it for two min and get them clean. You are going to have to spin this thing at a decent speed for about three to four min, wring out your clothes and check them. If they are not clean, be sure to empty the Wonder wash fully before putting them back in. Also, before rinsing, throw some hot water into the Wonder Wash, given it a few spins and than dump the water out. That way you know for sure there isn't any left over soap or lint in the Wonder Wash. Also don't just spin a load clockwise. Alternate between clockwise and counter-clockwise. This will ensure that your clothes don't clump together as you are washing them.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3705, "id": 100488, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 564, "len_tokens": 693, "text": "We got this because the washer quit right before the holidays and we wanted to wait and buy a replacement washing machiune when appliances went on sale.  Now that I have this, I will never buy another washing machine.  Love it.\n\n- I recommend putting it up on a counter, workbench, etc.  Ours is on our head washing machine.  I think putting it down in the bathtub is awkward.\n\n- I also recommend filling it with a hose instead of trying to hold the tub under a faucet.  I disconnected the water hoses to our dead washer and use those.\n\n-- Some people dump the tub over because they don't like to wait for the Wonderwash to drain on its own.  I use the drain pipe and let it fall into the utility sink.  I think I will switch to a five-gallon bucket at some point and use the gray water outdoors for gardening or landscape plants.\n\n-- The clothes look better than they did using the regular washer.  I think the compression pushes out the dinge by percolating out the old detergent from previous washes.\n\n-- I bought a janitorial mop wringer and bucket to squeeze out the clothes.  I hang most of the wash on the basement clothesline and then do the rest in the dryer.  Some people buy a little electric spin dryer.\n\n-- The tub holds about half of the normal load I use to put in.  It takes less time to do each load, though.  I can put both the top and bottom queen-size bedsheets in and then do the pillowcases with the towels.  If I was doing king size sheets, I'd just do the top and bottom sheets separately.  I do one or two tubfuls of laundry daily and our clothes hamper is usually empty for the first time in my life.\n\n-- I timed out the spins and for a normal load, I spin the washing tub moderately slow 30 times in each direction.  If the clothes are very dirty I do double the number of spins.  To rinse, I can do more like 15 or 20 spins each way.\n\n-- The stand has suction cups on the bottom but I put mine on an old bath towel as I splash a bit as I pull out wet clothes.\n\n-- It was easy to assemble it.  Five minutes tops.\n\n-- I use a fourth of the detergent I used to use, and much less water.  The dryer runs a bit longer as the towels and jeans don't spin dry but I hang most of my stuff on the line so I use the same amount of electricity to run the dryer or maybe a little less.\n\n-- The shipping speed was fantastic.  I think I got it the day after I ordered it.\n\n*** UPDATE: The Wonder Wash lasted over a year, with a lot of use. I literally used it every day. One day the glue quit on the axle peg which holds the tub to the supporting frame. I tried to repair it, but couldn't figure out a solution. I have now switched to a plastic laundry plunger.  I got my money's worth out of the Wonder Wash, and it got me started with doing my laundry without a machine. I am glad I bought it. Here is more about my laundry switchover process: http://mgseltzer.hubpages.com/hub/I-Never-Replaced-Our-Washing-Machine-Part-One", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3706, "id": 100504, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 566, "len_tokens": 688, "text": "I live up three flights of stairs from the shared laundry facility in my building.  Due to some injuries, schlepping the laundry up and down was tough.  So this looked like a fantastic solution!  I was excited to receive it.\n\nThe box in which it shipped worried me because it made me think the thing must be TINY.  But it's disassembled inside the box and actually larger than I expected once assembled.\n\nAssembly was super simple -- no tools required -- and seems to be a reasonably firm unit during operation.  There is a bit of twist/wobble to the support base while you're rotating the handle but nothing that interferes with using it.  My counters are very small so I can't get all four of the very effective suction cup feet adhered to the counter before use.  That could be a big part of my problem, and I suspect it is.\n\nI do wish that the drain swiveled or had a flexible hose instead of the rigid one.  Because I'm right-handed, I want it facing in a direction during use that doesn't work well for draining it after the washing is done.  But it isn't heavy - even when loaded - so moving it into a draining position after you've finished rotating it the specified length of time is easy enough.\n\nThe instructions that come with the unit are minimal.  I think I used too little water/soap in the first effort so added more the next time, which seemed to do a better job.  Likely user error, as I underestimated the weight of the laundry I was adding.\n\nThe volume is small.  You're not going to be doing bed sheets or bath towels in this unit.  But for shorts, tee shirts, socks, tea towels, and other small garments/pieces, it's a great size and saves on trips up/down the stairs.\n\nIt does NOTHING to help you wring or dry the clothes.  So when you're done you'll be faced with absolutely waterlogged clothes that need to be hand-wrung, which was a bigger mess/hassle than I predicted.\n\nWhen empty, it's really light and very easy to move -- except for those SUPER grabby suction feet!  I've never had such luck with suction cups on most products but these are EAGER.  They also have little tabs on the edge that makes it easy to lift and break the suction when it's time to move it.\n\nThere are some clever things they could have done to make it a bit better. Some built-in lid holder that would let you keep the lid off when it's stored.  Same for the drain pipe, which I've just left inside the unit while stored.  A bit more rigid stand would be nice but might add to the weight, with which I was very pleased.  It's really light and easy to move.\n\nOh, and I had thought that the product write-up suggesting that the hot water would create pressure inside the unit was probably optimistic.  But it really does create enough pressure to cause the drain water to come shooting out with some force after you're finished washing.\n\nThe clothes that I've washed so far have not been as clean as if I had used a proper machine but that isn't the point of this product.  It doesn't pretend to replace big machines.  And what it promises, it absolutely delivers.  I can highly recommend this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3707, "id": 100665, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 466, "len_tokens": 600, "text": "Today I received the Wonder Wash I ordered from laundry alternatives. I absolutely love it! I have a HE set of washer/dryer but I wanted something for those small loads of hubby's work clothes (oilfield - ugh!), vacations without electricity, etc.\nI played with it for 2 hours and got the washing for 4 people done in that time. Fast, efficient, and even gets the oily grime from the uniforms out!\n\nI can fit 3 pairs of MY jeans in it (plus size) and they come out great. 7 M Adult t-shirts and 4 pairs of undies in one load; I only did one set of uniforms at a time...they get really grungy.\n\nI'm not saying I will use it all the time, but here are the facts: I did 4 1/2 regular loads of laundry in 2 hours using 12 gals of cold water (reused rinse water for next wash), same amount of soap, and NO electricity. Very easy to turn, did not seem unstable at all. Larger loads turn easier FYI. No leaks. Simply fill, wash, drain, fill, rinse, drain. I used a garden hose. Unit has suction cups to help it stay in place, but didn't have any trouble with that.\n\nI set it up outside so I didn't have to bother with wringing out much, just hung straight out on line, drippy wet. It was breezy and 90 degrees...jeans dried in a little over an hour. NO wrinkles. Took about 7 mins per load. Definitely going to use it for uniforms regularly, save my good washer.\n\nI did use an old salad spinner I never use from the cupboard (crank of course) to spin out water from socks and undies...works GREAT! I would wring what water I could from them, set the clothes in evenly, gave it a 30 second spin and VOILA! they were MUCH dryer!\n\nI am seriously considering a sturdier, larger salad spinner. I would like to be able to do laundry easier on camping trips (2 weeks long) and vacations so don't want to go electric. I figure I can pack clean clothes in both during travel and just set up in the bath...no more laudromats!\n\nConsidering the success with the salad spinner, I think the regular spin dryer would work great. The same place I bought my mini washer sells some that crank up to 3200 rpm's and can handle about 13 lbs wet laundry. By my calculations, I can only spin the salad spinner at about 700 rpms (every turn of handle turns interior 4 times...can turn handle about 3 times per second if I REALLY try...12 X 60 = 720).\n\nWell, there ya go. My experience with the crank-style mini washers is exceedingly good. Definitely worth the total price of about $60 including shipping.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3708, "id": 100853, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 518, "len_tokens": 627, "text": "I bought a Frigidaire FPHC2399KF in November 2009.  It has never worked properly.  Nor has the replacement unit Frigidaire supplied.  That's right, 3 service calls, one entirely new replacement unit, and a new temp sensor later and I still don't have a fridge that works properly.  My first unit had a large wave in the side that was noticeable, and even more troublesome both fridges have had awful temperature control.  The freezer can not properly control temperature, and drops as low as -14 F several times a day (with a setpoint of 0 F).  We were careful not to make any changes to the default settings on the second unit before observing this problem for a while because we were afraid that somehow we had messed it up.  Only after watching the unit overcool for several days did we attempt adjusting the setpoint to +3 deg to see if maybe that would work better (it didn't).  Not only does this excessive cooling make such things as digging through the bags of painfully cold veggies, or eating ice cream inconvenient (so rock hard that neither my husband or I have a prayer of scooping it straight from the freezer), but it causes some of our fresh food drawers to freeze because some air exchange occurs between the two compartments.  Delicate items, like lettuces, have to be carefully positioned in the fridge to prevent damage.  Even carrots & celery can't be kept in certain compartments because they got frozen all the way through and totally lost their crispness.  To top it all off, the humidity adjuster on one of the drawers totally broke off.\n\nFrigidaire's customer service is equally dissatisfying.  I've spent hours on the line with them to be provided with no useful information.  Originally they just told me to adjust the humidity control sliderson the drawers, but now they are just telling me to have my local service provider continue replacing the parts he is guessing are bad.  They provide NO actual technical assistance from anyone who has any kind of in-depth technical knowledge of how this unit works.  No one who might know what part really is defective so that I could talk to the repairman about replacing that part.  Just the same routine over and over - they tell you to call your local servicer and continue with the repairs because the unit is fixable.  But then my unit never actually gets fixed.  I just waste time having parts replaced with no affect on my fridge performance.  I've even had them tell me that my first unit didn't have this problem - apparently their rep didn't note that in my file.  Fortunately, the service company did document that issue so I can prove that it is a recurring problem.  The only helpful person I've spoken to was a corporate lady who was calling to follow up on a survey I filled out giving them horrible customer service marks.  She at least sent me a contribution toward my food losses.  But even she hasn't fulfilled her promise of having a product technical specialist call me.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3709, "id": 101531, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 504, "len_tokens": 610, "text": "Pros: Stylish looks. Easy to control lockout feature for children. Stove top heats up really fast.\n\nCons: Preheat doesn't get to desired temp after alarm goes off. Can't have timer and clock on at same time. Exhaust fan is right where you stand so you're constantly getting air blown on you.\n\nI like this stove. It's not worth the price the big store chains are selling it for ($2000+) but for the price I got it at, it's worth it. I really like the lockout feature so my children can't accidentially turn it on without me knowing. The top burners heat up super fast but the glass stays really hot for an extended period of time after they are off. Way too long for my standards. The exhaust blowing is directly where you stand making it so if you're cooking at the stove, you constantly getting blasted with air right in your face. If you're cooking a pizza or something else that has strong odors, you're going to get that odor on your clothes. Whoever thought this would be a good place to vent should be fired. Also the preheat feature doesn't go to your desired temp when the alarm goes off. I preheated the oven to 425F and the alarm went off at 225F. So I had to set it on bake to 425F to get it the rest of the way. The fans stay on the entire time it's cooking and for about an hour after the stove is turned off. It's not very loud but if you're in the kitchen you will hear it. Overall I have some good points and some bad points. I would be very mad right now if I bought this at Lowes or Best Buy for full retail price but I didn't.. got it much much cheaper at a smaller chain store. So overall I'm happy with it. I just wish that exhaust blower was in a different place. It would be almost perfect if it was.\n\n*EDIT* After one year and three months, the internal cooling fan, the fan that blows the air at your body when you're standing at the stove, well it now sounds like it's off centered or not aligned correctly.  It rattles and shakes and super loud.  Really glad I bought an extra three year warranty with it when I bought it.  Repairman came over and knew exactly what is was.  He had to order the part so it's not fixed yet but he said I was lucky to have an extended warranty because this repair would have cost me $400-$500 to do.  He has to take apart almost the entire stove to get to this fan.  I got the extended warranty only because there are so many electronics on this stove.  It's not like a stove from 20 years ago that's mostly mechanical and doesn't break down.  I knew the circuit board's would be costly if they needed to be repaired.  Well worth the extra $129 I spent on it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3710, "id": 101532, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 553, "len_tokens": 640, "text": "I purchased this range (from another source at a much lower price) last May, it was to replace an older model of the same range...but this unit had a few issues of great concern for me.\n\nAfter I prepped the slide-in slot for the new (and a little wider) range, I had a problem hooking up the new pigtail. It all looked correct (according to the instructions), but something just seemed wrong? I finally called a contractor to come over and take a look, and at first he thought it all looked correct also.\n\nSo to be safe we removed all of the metal coverings and connectors on the back of the range (where you attach the three pigtail connectors) to see how it was set up, and to our surprise all three connector sites connected directly into the metal frame of the range.\n\nThis would mean that the metal frame of the range would be directly hooked up to the 220 volt power cable in such a way as to give anyone a great electric shock if it was touched once it was connected and plugged in.\n\nWe corrected the problem, and hooked it up without a problem after that.\n\nNow here is the scary part. The next day as I was cleaning up the pieces of the cardboard box the range came in, and all of the many pieces of paper and plastic that came with it...I came across a small plastic bag with some paperwork in it, and three connectors.\n\nIn the bag was an Alert to open the connector box on the back of the range, and connect the pigtail using the connectors provided in the bag (as illustrated). Doing so would prevent the pigtail from being connected directly to the metal frame of the range. I immediately called Frigidaire to urge them to add this Alert to all of the installation paperwork that comes with the range before someone gets electrocuted. But they did not seem to be as concerned as I was.\n\nMy next issue was with the four top burner knobs. While they look great, it is much too easy to accidentally turn a burner on just by bumping or brushing against them. Since May I have had at least 12 fires related to this problem (do to a dishtowel, paper towel, or paper or plastic bag, etc., laid on the range top while working in the kitchen near the range). Frigidaire was not much help with this issue either.\n\nI first thought about adding childproof  knob covers, but after reading reviews of others with this same concern...the best idea was to just remove the knobs until I needed to turn a burner on, so that was my solution for that problem.\n\nOther than the above, it is a great range...but wish I had converted to gas like I had considered before ordering this range. I do most of my cooking on one of my woks (using a butane gas stove), or one of the many electric pans, grills, etc., so don't use the range that much more anyway. So for me removing the knobs was not that inconvenient (and much safer).\n\nHope my comments are of help if you are considering this range, or having any problems with one you already own.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3711, "id": 101797, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 547, "len_tokens": 628, "text": "Item arrived in only two days and I've used it a few times now. I took the shipping safety motor mount brace off as it mentions and at first it would not start up. I reached in and manually turned it for a little while to manually work the motor a bit, and then it functioned just fine.\n\nIt can be tricky to get items inside balanced right but 90% of the time everything works great the first run. (just be sure to hold onto it when it first starts and when it's winding down, in between if things balance it's fine on its own) Also, remember not to over-load it. It only has to run for about 3 minutes, so just put in a few items each time you run it... about 70% full or so if smaller items, though it can run completely full if it's just a couple items. You'll have to judge that as you use it and learn what works best. (you'll know if it's over-loaded as it won't balance itself out) If you want to do more at one time, get a larger unit.\n\nTIP: It helps if you make a less dense clothes area, in the center of the items in the basket before starting it, so that the items are already kinda pushed up against the outer wall of the basket. No need to make center area empty so much as just less dense so that the motor has an easier time of getting up to speed, as the clothes are already heading in the right direction towards the outer wall once the centrifugal force increases.\n\nWater extraction: it does a nice job of getting most of the water out... I would say it's far more effective than manually doing it by hand, and faster as well. (plus saves loads of work)\n\nNoise level: this is reasonable, and in fact it's very quiet once it balances... though there is a vibration that can be pretty up there in scale sometimes. Keep this in mind for apartments where you may not be allowed to have clothes washing gear like this. (such as me) It is mostly ok though. Just use the item as far away from vibration conducting surfaces that are near your neighbor's walls if you can. The little rubber feet it has helps cut some of the vibration and holds it in place pretty well, but again... hold it down tight when it starts and when it's finishing. You can also open the lid once it's done and a brake will apply and stop it faster.\n\nRelating to size: the reason I got the lower cost one is of course the price, but also the size. This one is smaller and easier to tuck away and hide in small apartments as compared to some of the larger units.\n\nNice bonus: the unit comes with a drain hose extension in case the really short one on the unit itself is not long enough. This gives you plenty of extension in most cases.\n\nI will use the item for some time and come back to add information on any issues as they come up, if they do. For now though, it pretty much is exactly as advertised, and functions well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3712, "id": 102357, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 552, "len_tokens": 665, "text": "This is my third of these Danby fridges and it is still wonderful and holds and keeps cold all we could hope for (well, no, that would require a walk-in fridge, still...).\n\nDanby made 2 changes that I have discovered so far. One is infinitely for the better, the other may bug some people but it's meh for me.\n\nStaring from the meh. They have re-designed the LED light. It no longer takes up a ton of room at the top of the fridge which is great (see below). But, it is now either on all the time or off all the time. Door activation is no longer possible. As far as I'm concerned, I'll turn on the pretty blue light when I have company and leave it off the rest of the time.\n\nThe good change. Because of the light redesign, the very top shelf that sits under the light and in front of the blower has been redesigned.  It used to have this cage thin protecting the light assembly and took up a ton of space, making the shelf of dubious value. Now, it is a flat shelf (a little shorter than the ones below so as to keep the  blower clear) and is actually useful.  I currently have 7 easily accessible cans of soda up there.\n\nAlso because of the redesign, the shelf can sit in the top slot. Because I use it for a mix of soda and beer, I don't use one of the long shelves. Now that it uses the top slot, it frees up the space to be able to have a beer height shelf and a taller soda shelf (I like the new design Diet Coke cans what can I say).\n\nAnnoyances left over from the original fridge:\nIt may be a clever door  reversal system, but it is a pain in the....butt...to actually do it.\nThe half shelf that abuts to the jut out to make the thing full depth is designed assuming...I'm not sure what about us consumers. It has a rod coming off the edge of the shelf to (I guess) keep the shelf from sliding backwards onto the ledge (I have no idea how that would happen in the normal course of things). It's half an inch in from the edge and I have actually had to rearrange my beverage layout because of it. I keep meaning to buy a bolt cutter to snip it out.\nI have no idea where they got the 120 can capacity figure. When I do the math, I can't make it be more than 90ish But, that's just a quibble.\n\nAs things stand now, I can put half a dozen cans on the tippy top shelf) (probably 4 beer bottles?),  25 regular soda cans (or 30 of those new tall skinny cans) on the second shelf, 20-25 bottles of beer on the third shelf (depending on the bottle shapes), and the very bottom (which is only half as deep as the others has either a couple bottles of champagne or beers that comes in cans ....it's my catch-all shelf.\n\nIf all you use is regular can-sized cans, the other long shelf can be inserted and you should be able to somewhere between 75 and 90 cans of beverage in it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3713, "id": 103184, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 538, "len_tokens": 609, "text": "TL;DR:\nI received my fridge with some dents on it, but besides that it works perfectly as expected!\n\nInitial impressions:\nAfter looking around for a little bit for the perfect little fridge to keep my drinks cool, i finally pulled the trigger and bought this Danby DBC120BLS Beverage Center.\n\nOriginally I was looking for something that was a little smaller, but after seeing that great reviews and what you got for the price, I was sold.\n\nFirst off, I have had this fridge for a couple of weeks now and I can say that it has served its purpose pretty well so far! It has only one job and that is to keep my drinks cool in my office. It is working perfectly.\n\nShipping:\nI did not realize the weight nor size of this fridge until it arrived on my front porch. The shipping was pretty quick thanks to Amazon Prime. There was a slight issue during the shipping process however. The fridge comes double boxed, there is the box that it is shipped in and the actual fridge box itself. Upon receiving the fridge, both boxes appeared to be in mint condition. After opening the box and removing the fridge everything looked to be great  upon further inspection there appeared to be a small but substantial dent on the left side of the fridge.  I started thinking, what the heck am I going to do? Ship this back to Amazon? Heck no. I had already cut open both boxes. I contacted Amazon and asked what I should do, I was provided the option for a replacement or a full refund. After a little bit of thinking, I just settled on keeping it, dents and all. I am not sure whose fault it is, but I do wish UPS and or Amazon would be a little more careful next time.\n(Note: I did not base my review on the fact that the item I received was slightly damaged upon receiving it. I based my review only on the item itself.)\n\nPros and Cons:\nI really like the overall design of the fridge itself, the stainless steel body and glass window on the front is really appealing. The built in lock is also a nice touch, it works but not as well as I hoped. (More on that later) I do have a couple of gripes about some of its design flaws. I wish that maybe the light inside was a tad brighter or something. It does not make that much of a difference but I do wish it were a little brighter though. Another thing would be the shelves; I wish there were more adjustment options with the shelves. The last thing that slightly annoyed me was the lock mechanism. I am not sure if it is maybe a defect or something, but the lock does not fully secure the door when engaged. The door is locked when you insert and turn the key, though you can still open it, just not fully.\n\nOverall:\nOverall all I can say is that the fridge is perfect, minus its small design and cosmetic flaws. It keeps a good selection of my drinks nice and cool while looking sleek and modern.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3714, "id": 103479, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 558, "len_tokens": 694, "text": "This beverage center proved to be a very bad purchase for our family. However, at the end of my bad-news story, there is a happy ending.\n\nThe first Danby DBC120BLS Beverage Center we ordered lasted 3 months before it stopped working. No warning; it just died a mysterious and unexpected death. Amazon was wonderful and quick to replace the lemon, which we hauled to the street for city pickup. The second (identical) Danby functioned but was so terribly loud that the noise intruded on conversations, TV watching, napping, and everything else connected with daily living. Our oversized fridge, in the same room, was silent compared to the little-but-clamorous Danby Beverage Center. The noise was driving us crazy, so we contacted Amazon.\n\nAmazon told us to contact the manufacturer, and the manufacturer told us to contact Amazon. (You know how THAT goes.) If we were to hope for a replacement, Danby required an authorized technician to examine the appliance. We scheduled a visit and waited (and waited) our turn. The technician agreed the noise was abnormally loud. He said the Danby needed a new compressor, which would cost more than the purchase price of a new unit. He suggested that Danby simply replace the appliance.\n\nDespite the authorized technician's written report, Danby squabbled about a refund. We were, however, welcome to crate and ship the unit back to them -- a heavy-lifting project that would end up costing as much in handling/shipping as the mini-fridge itself. (You can imagine our frustration.) Long story short: Danby non-cheerfully sent us a refund for the beverage center, which we unplugged and got rid of ASAP. Now what? We still needed a beverage center to fill the hole in our kitchen. We certainly were not willing to try another Danby, although it was the exactly-right size for our cabinetry.\n\nHere's the solution: First, we searched online for all beverage centers of appropriate dimensions, including units that were smaller than the above Danby. Next, we researched each of the units on our list to compare features, price, and RATINGS FROM CUSTOMERS. Because excessive noise is a common complaint in these little fridges, we did not want to order a new one (of any brand) and get stuck, again.\n\nWe found a beverage center that looked good on paper and was not criticized for noise: Summit Model SCR312L. We had never heard of this brand before. We found out it was sold online by a \"big box\" store but was not available in-store. We spoke with the local store manager, told her we were interested in the Summit, but would need to plug it in at the store to listen to it before we committed to it. She agreed to order it for us; no problem... Well, the Summit SCR312L passed the test! It cools AND it is quiet!  It isn't as tall as the Danby, but it holds a lot more than it looks like it will hold, which is enough for us. We use the excess space at the top to store a decorative box filled with extra beverages... Did I mention that this little fridge is quiet? ... My intention is not to promote Summit here. But I am suggesting that you find a way to see and hear the product before installing it in your home. We learned the hard way.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3715, "id": 103836, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 555, "len_tokens": 643, "text": "I'll update this over the next few months, but after the first two weeks of using this Bosch my wife and I are nothing but pleased.\n\nWe have three boys who eat a lot and subsequently we run the dishwasher one or two times a day. The first time I ran this, I couldn't hear it at all and had to put my hand on it to verify it was running. Also opened it to make sure - water was dripping as typical when you open a washer mid-cycle. If it's quiet in the house, you can hear it running but barely. You can also hear when the washer is purging water before and after the rinse cycles through the drain but that's not bad either. But if you have the TV on or have kids in the house, you generally can't hear it at all.\n\nBut if it's quiet but doesn't clean, what's the point? We've had no issues with cleaning due to the washer. We have hard water in our area and the only issue we had some problems with spotting, etc. was when we didn't have the rinse agent in with standard detergent or using our usual special detergent. That was the same with any of the washers we or our friends have or have had.\n\nBoth the top and bottom baskets have lots of slots for things and at least 50% of them will fold down to accommodate whatever you are trying to wash.\n\nAlso, there's a timer to let you know how long the wash cycle has left. Not essential but nice.\n\nOnly issue we've had in two weeks is the door is extremely heavy (I believe a spring loose or missing). It has slipped or people new to using it have just let it drop. It goes fast enough I have worried about our dog. With the repeated drops the door has gone past horizontal. I scheduled a tech repair today and will update this once we see what normal should be.\n\nBut again, no issues with cleaning or sound. Both have been great for the first two weeks of use. You'd hope that'd be the case. Will update after we get the door squared away and again at the six-month mark.\n\n--------------update on door-----------------\nThe door issue was as the comment from Lynn said - contractor screws that were too long. After the fix by Bosch (who's repairman said this was fairly common for appliances installed by contractors), the door is back to out-of-the-box condition.\n\nNew observations:\n-the insulation on this thing is amazing. If the cycle is done running even two hours previous, the dishes and air inside is still really warm. I'm guessing once hot water goes in, it stays hot.\n\n-drying dishes can be an issue if you run out of rinse agent or seem to run it on Auto Wash vs. Regular Wash. I'm going to keep a better eye on this as well.\n\n-if you have any back issues, the bottom rack is extremely low to the floor. Likewise since the controls are on the door, there's more room in the top of the washer too. Again, lots of room for almost anything you could stick in it.\n\nAgain, overall satisfaction is high. We'll see where we're at in two more months.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3716, "id": 103837, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 512, "len_tokens": 618, "text": "We've had this dishwasher just over a year, and I'm writing this review now because we finally figured out how to get it to dry dishes once washed.\n\nFirst, it replaced an excellent LG (which we gave to our kids) because the LG was white and there seems to be some sort of law that you can't have a white dishwasher with a stainless steel refrigerator or range. The LG was the quietest dishwasher we'd ever had, often having to check it to make sure we'd turned it on. Well, this Bosch is comparable. It is extremely quiet in all but the \"drain cycle.\" That's to be expected, and even that is quiet, well, as quiet as the LG and quieter than out old old GE.\n\nWe required the buttons be on the outside of the door, NOT on top so that they disappear when the door is closed. Believe it or not, this cut our choices in half. Another issue was the handle. In a galley kitchen (or not), we would not have a dishwasher with a handle that sticks out - even if you could have another dish towel hanging. We definitely wanted flush \"handles\" which, btw, is how we ended up with the Bosch counter-depth (flush) refrigerator.\n\nThe capacity is good, not great, one reason why I can only give it four stars. People talk about \"holding place settings for 6,\" but they never mention what happens to those place settings when you add a pot or pan or a broiling rack or pan! But we're only two people and on a daily basis, this more than meets our needs.\n\nDrying: Ah, drying. This has been a problem with many of our dishwashers. We've tried all the products for drying from Jet-Dry to a \"cake\" that was made to fit in the dispenser. We washed the dishes after dinner and let it go through the cycles and left the dishes and pots and pans to dry overnight. In the morning, there would still be spots that were wet though the dishes were dry and squeaky clean. Basically, we were running into the age-old problem on the lips of pots and the tops of cups filling with too much water for the machine to dry. Cups we dealt with by lying them on their sides, and that really worked. Pots or pans with lips we loaded on top when possible, and they were the first things we took out in the morning, and hand wipes the lips. And now - so we added 60 seconds to the unloading routine - all is well.\n\nIn the old days, dishwashers had a heating element in the bottom and did a better job of drying. But in the old days, you couldn't have a conversation in the same room as the dishwasher, they were so noisy. You learn to live with these things.\n\nWashing, this gets 5 stars. Quiet, this gets 5 stars. Reliability, 5 stars. (Never a problem or repair.) Capacity and price ratio, four stars. Would we get another? Probably.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3717, "id": 105019, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 558, "len_tokens": 615, "text": "I love Haier products .. they cater to a portion of people that most other appliance manufacturers do not .. people who live in small quarters or have no laundry hook ups! I used to live in an apartment with no laundry hook ups and I was too busy to make several trips to the laundry mat during the week. I seen this that came with the Haier portable dryer for about $400 .. I was skeptical of how well this would work at first. The setup was surprisingly quick and easy .. take it out of the box, screw a few things on, hook the water intake and drain hose and you are ready to go .. honestly took 10 minutes! Since there is no agitator but a pulsator ... it allows you more room for clothes. I was surprised by how much clothing I was able to fit in this little washer. I was also surprised by the array of fabric settings and loads sizes, including an extra spin cycle ..and a setting to allow for a long soak before the wash. There is even a countdown timer that informs how many minutes remain in the cycle and shows you which par tof the cycle it is on (fill, wash, rinse, spin) ...  Honestly .. I was amazed at how well this machine cleaned my clothes and with the pulsator .. it is more delicate on fabrics. Everything from the fill, wash, rinse, spin and drain worked perfectly ... the spin works just as well as a regular sized washer and the operation is pretty quiet .. as long as the washer is level on the ground .. there should be no issues. Now my reason I gave this a 4 star rating is because of the exterior shell. This is obviously not as strong and durable as a regular sized washer since it needs to be light weight enough to be \"portable:\" so I have had issues where if the unit gets banged by say the counter ... the outer shell can crack and the top loading door is not very durable either .. do no set anything on top of it or drop anything of heavy weight on it because it can and probably will break! I also had an issue where the area surrounding a couple screws/bolts on the exterior started to \"spider web\" crack around it. Now none of this affected the operation of the unit in any way, but the cracks can grow worse overtime. I personally know Haier customer service is great! Their warranty periods are pretty long, a few years, and they even have a separate warranty on the interior basket. If you have an issue with your unit .. they WILL send out a whole new unit if they have no Haier repair services in your local area. And they will NOT ask you to return the unit to them .. they will ask you to sign a letter saying you did properly dispose of the defective unit. I know some reviews state they had issues with the washer not starting after fill up ... this probably is because the washer is not level ... if this unit is even a small amount off level (even an inch) it will not run .. so adjust the legs accordingly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3718, "id": 105137, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 519, "len_tokens": 619, "text": "omg! so amazing! very cute and SO SMALL! fits in my hallway closet. was on the fence about buying it but after reading many reviews and watching youtube reviews, I bit the bullet and pressed 'add to cart'. I looked at a few other models, but all of them seemed pretty janky and this one looked like it would legitimately clean my clothes, not just get them wet. (and it does legitimately clean my clothes -- hooray!!)\n\nthe machine arrived in MINT condition - not dented or scratched - totally pristine.\n\nthere were only a few assembly steps and they were both very easy (just make your husband do it!) -- screw on the bottom cover and attach feet or wheels. the wheels DO spin in all directions, so if you want to ride inside of this washing machine and play bumper cars, you may.\n\nthe drain hose is already attached. you just have to attach the filling hose. def do this with a wrench or something. don't trust your weak lil hands to do the job, because if you do, it WILL leak, and your neighbors WILL complain. just use the dang wrench.\n\nmake sure you can remove the aerator of whatever faucet you plan on using to fill up this beauty. I wanted to do this in my bathroom, where we have a delta sink, but our delta sink has a stupid plastic lil aerator that you need a special $10 delta aerator wrench to remove. ummm -  h e l l  no! luckily we have a faucet with a reasonable screw-on metal aerator in our kitchen that we now use instead for all our washing needs.\n\nI set this bad boy up last night and ran two loads on 'normal' and I didn't even have time to finish two eppies of Parks and Rec - that's how fast it was !! (well I had to keep pausing the show at each step of the wash cycle just cause I was so excited to run into the kitchen and witness each little thing that the machine was doing now.. Oooh, it's draining! Omg, it's rinsing! Wow! It works!)\n\nThe spin cycle made my clothes super duper dry but did not destroy them (important). The spin cycle was also super quiet for how fiercely it spun. (I was expecting it to be bouncing all over the place, but the machine was pretty still). The spin cycle is legit tho. Nothing is drippy and some of my thinner clothes dried in like an hour after coming out of the wash. If I had some thick stuff like towels or sweaters or jeans on the wash, I might do a double spin.\n\nFYI- I have a pretty small kitchen sink and when this machine drained it didn't even fill it up a quarter of the way at any point. So if your sink likes to take its time draining, don't fret. This lil bugger is super considerate and drains the water out in small portions. How nice!\n\nIf you are still schlepping to the laundromat, who even are you?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3719, "id": 105221, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 562, "len_tokens": 684, "text": "I finally decided to take the plunge and by this to keep some people out of my mini fridge. I have a mini fridge pretty much the same color as what is in the photo, which is why I bought this item. Upon receiving this item, I read the instructions to see if there was anything I might miss if I just skipped them. This item comes with the following: 1 Black Colored Anchor Clip. 1 Silver Colored Anchor Clip, 1 Master Lock, 2 Alcohol Wipes, and 1 Scrubby Pad.\n\nThe instructions read: \"2. Clean and prepare the chosen pad locations with the included kit. Use the scrubby pad to clean the attachment location, wipe area clean with the alcohol swab. Let dry completely\"\n\nEasy enough. And having done this a million times with other adhesive products, I didn't think would be any issues. Boy was I wrong! The \"scrubby pad\" doesn't just clean the attachment area, IT SCRATCHES THE CRAP OUT OF IT!!!\n\nI looked back through the instructions. NOPE! NO WARNING ABOUT SCRATCHING SURFACES!!! I thought \"well, maybe there us just soap residue in the pad, and maybe it needs to be cleaned better\". Nope! It's scratched!\n\nIf there was a warning that said something like, \" be sure to only use the scrubby pad to clean an area NO BIGGER than the size one of the Anchor Clips will cover\", I would have been MUCH more careful with the included scrubby pad! But, no such warning exists! And, since I was just scrubbing the general area I was going to attach the Silver Colored Anchor Clip to my Stainless looking (I say looking because I don't know how it could actually be now that it's scratched to crap by what appeared to be a simple cleaning pad) mini fridge door, now I have scratch marks all around where the Anchor Clip is secured. :(\n\nLike I said, I tried cleaning the area with my alcohol spay bottle and some paper towels in the hope that it was just some sort of residue, but it isn't. The best I could do is use the scrubby pad even more around the Anchor Clip to try to make it look...umm...better? But, instead it just looks like I was being dumb, using the incorrect tools for the job. Too bad, they were the tools that were INCLUDED to do the job!\n\nEven though no one will really see it other than (the people who aren't supposed to be trying to get what's inside) me, it's just going to infuriate me off every time I go to get a drink!\n\nI'm not really sure how well this product actually works yet, seeming I just received it today, and also because the instructions say not to use the lock with it for 48 hours after attaching the Anchor Clips because \"full adhesive strength is not achieved for 48 hrs\".\n\nSo, IF you are going to buy this item, this is what I recommend:\n\n1. ONLY use the \"scrubby pad\" to prep an area which is SMALLER than the actual surface of the Anchor Clip.\n2. Use your OWN alcohol and paper towels to clean the attachment location. The wipes they include are not enough to clean this area adequately enough.\n\nHopefully this review helps someone save face...the face of their mini fridge that is. ;)", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3720, "id": 105595, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 463, "len_tokens": 607, "text": "I looked for many months for a countertop dishwasher, and read many, many reviews.  I finally settled on this one as it seemed to fit my needs and garnered decent press.  I was leary at first because all I can remember are those lovely bubble-top countertop \"dishwashers\" from the 60's and 70's that did little more than rinse the dishes.  Was I ever mistaken.  The carton arrived a week earlier than estimated, with absolutely no damage (extremely well packed).  The instructions are straightforward, and putting the adaptor on the kitchen sink took less than a minute.  Then it was simply a matter of hand-tightening the connections, and presto! it was ready to go.  The inside of this dishwasher swallowed a complete service for 6 (I tried - with 10.5\" plates no less), with some space left over for a few serving dishes.  It has several cycles to choose from, and I have found that the glasses only cycle seems to work well for most of my daily needs.  It has a built-in heater (to 149), and the wastewater discharge is pumped - not gravity-fed, so you could place this dishwasher lower than the sink.  The exterior is very sleek and no-nonsense, with few bells and whistles that can eventually go wrong.  And it does a phenomenal job!  I have yet to find any unclean dishes or utensils when it's done.  It does take a while, however, with the heavy cycle lasting 112 minutes, normal - 85 minutes, eco - 77 minutes, glasses - 71 minutes, speed - 45 minutes, and soak - 10 minutes.  It also has delayed start in increments of 2 hours, up to 8 hours.  The interior is all stainless steel, and it sounds like quality (if there is such a thing) when you close the door.  Yes, it is fairly noisy, but most dishwashers are, and this one is setting out in the open on a countertop - so I can easily live with that.  The rinse-aid dispenser even has a warning light that comes on when it needs to be refilled, and Edgestar also lists the proper amount of detergent to use.  This last is dependent on the local water, and you'll have to make a call to get the \"grain count\" (hardness level) of your water, but that wasn't even an annoyance for me.  Overall, I am very pleased with this unit.  It does take up considerable countertop space, so measure carefully - it barely fit under my cabinets, but was convinced to go finally.  It really does a full-size job in a countertop package.  I definitely recommend this to anyone who is not a large family - it works amazingly well for 1, 2 or even 3 people.  And it's very water and power efficient.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3721, "id": 105603, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 457, "len_tokens": 603, "text": "I've had this range for about two months now.  It looks great, performs better, is easy to clean, built solidly, and did I mention it LOOKS GREAT!?\n\npros: very heavy continuous grates made from cast iron.  the cooktop uses a ceramic glass with sealed burners that makes cleanup very easy - i just use a microfiber and a little water, and voila, clean.  I haven't had to scrub and scrape like i did with my old porcelain steel.  The burners are fantastic, with the \"power\" burner going from an absolutely micro simmer to extremely powerful, wok-fire.  the accessories that come with the range are great - a cast iron two burner griddle, a cast iron simmer plate, and cast iron wok ring.  The oven is PHENOMENAL.  easy slide out racks are something i didn't even know i needed until i have them.  it comes with 3 racks, meaning I can be baking 3 sheets of cookies at once.  The convection bake means those cookies come out faster, too, meaning that I've got a batch of 6 dozen cookies done in 16 minutes.  Lighting is quick, and heating of the oven is fast.  Also, it seems that the oven keeps temperature much longer (after having the oven on at 400, I've turned it off, come back 15 minutes later, and the oven is still at 350).  this likely means it is more efficient.  The door is easily removable.  It is cheaper than competing \"pro-sumer\" style ranges.  the oven is big enough to fit half-sheet pans, unlike some other pro-sumer ranges i tested.\n\ncons: it is HEAVY and difficult to install yourself simply because of weight.  There isn't much room behind this thing, having a big, flat, inflexible panel that makes up the back.  if you are building, and have the opportunity to dictate where the gas and electric outlets are, you'll be fine, but as mine was a replacement, I had to finagle things to make it fit properly.  because of the location of the plug, i was unable to sit the range completely flush to the wall, and instead have a 1/2 inch gap.  not a deal breaker, but if little things drive you crazy, this might...  The cooling fan of the oven tends to stay on long after you've turned it off.  The stainless is a bit softer than what I care for - I've already put a few scratches in it from hitting the front with my belt buckle, or accidentally scraping a pan along the wide front.\n\nsummary:  One of the better looking gas ranges out there, heavy, well-built and easy to love.  It performs well, and that's what really matters.  Of course, it doesn't hurt that that it also has KILLER LOOKS.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3722, "id": 106558, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 545, "len_tokens": 681, "text": "This is a really great washer. I had a medium capacity Kenmore washer with an agitator that lasted 26 years and when it passed on, I replaced it with a LG front-loading 2.7 c.f. washer.  I bought the smaller LG since I wasn't sure their larger front-loader could make it through the basement doorway (later I found out that I could have just refused delivery had that been the case).  I wasn't happy with the LG front-loader for several reasons.  The width of the door is much less wider than the drum.  The machine has a setting for bulky items, but you have to squeeze them to get them in there.  Once I started using the machine, it seemed doubtful that I could even get a twin size comforter in there that would get tossed around enough to clean well.  Also, with the front-loaders, you have to leave the door open for a few hours afterwards and wipe the rubber seal very well, otherwise you'll get a musty smell over time.  I also noticed the rubber lip of the seal that you have to wipe under to dry off accumulates lint, cat hair, etc.  That's a little too much maintenance after each load for me.  Also, the LG, despite its delivery man leveling it, does walk a little on the high spin settings. The cycles are long, one commonly used is an hour and three minutes.\n\nThis Maytag Bravos at 4.7 c.f. is even bigger than my old Kenmore.  There should be no issue with getting my queen size comforter in there and it cleaning well.  Cycle times are shorter, one used for normal loads is just over 40 minutes, much shorter than the LG.  It cleans very well.  With both my LG and Kenmore, when I washed washcloths that were used once while showering, they'd come out with that deodorant-like smell in them.  With the Maytag Bravos, in using the extra rinse feature, I noticed no scent in any of them.  Success!  And it's nice to not have to bend over to open the door. I also think the Maytag is a bit quieter than my LG while spinning and the little LG cost $300 more than the $600 I paid for this model of the Bravos.  The Bravos doesn't walk while spinning like the LG did. I thank the store for being willing to take the LG back, after some arm twisting and discussion with the store manager.\n\nInitially I did think there was a problem with the Bravos as after the very first load I did, I noticed the pocket where you add fabric softener was filled with water at end of cycle.  It should just be a little wet afterwards.  The next time I ran the machine I set the fabric softener added indicator and this flushed it out.  The fabric softener pocket has been basically empty since then, as it should be.  I had initially called Maytag and the lady promptly suggested sending a service person to look at it, no charge since under warranty.  I'll give them a call back and cancel that appointment as it appears I don't need it. I really love this machine, I'm going to dig up a little laundry to do another load!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3723, "id": 106709, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 587, "len_tokens": 696, "text": "My oven wouldn't light, and after a little research, I discovered my glow bar wasn't glowing, and as a result the oven wasn't either. After I pulled the stove out I found the parts list/manual sheet on the back of the stove. Yours should be there unless some dummy took it off. Found the part number for the glow bar/oven igniter and hit the net. Amazon had the best price of course....\n This glow bar is an exact replacement for my range, which is a 2002 GE XL44 range. And it was inexpensive.\nI accept no resonsibilty for your mechanical skills. It shouldn't take much to do this anyway.....\n\n The swap was simple. You will only need a straight slot screwdriver and a 1/4 inch socket or nut driver (if you have a screwdriver with the removable tip bits, when the bit is removed, thats a 1/4 inch).\nUnplug the oven.\nTurn off the gas valve to the oven.\nRemove the baking racks.\nRemove the bottom bake shield by taking the two screws out in the very back bottom of the oven with a straight slot screw driver.\nPush the tray to the rear until it comes out of the slots in the front and lift it out.\nYou will see the burner bar running front to back.\nIn the very bottom of the oven you will see a verticle aluminum heat shield with a screw on one end.\nRemove the screw and the heat shield should slide to the right and come out. Set it aside.\nNext you will see a little \"D\" shaped access cover on the back wall held on by a screw with wires coming out. Remove it and set it aside.\nPull out wires going to the igniter carefully until you see the white plastic plug. Carefully get the plug out of the hole. The plastic may be brittle from the heat- BE CAREFUL. Also I noticed a couple of reviews where it looks like people didn't pull out the wires to get to the plug and just cut them. The plug is in there.....\nGrab the plug by the two little latches on the sides and pull it apart.\nNext, take the nut driver and remove the glow bar igniter off of the burner bar by taking out the two screws.\nOn my oven the plug did not fit between the burner bar and the back of the oven, so I removed the two screws holding the burner hood to the back wall of the oven and slipped the old igniter wires out past the bracket. This is all of the disassembly.\nSlip the wires of the new igniter behind the burner hood bracket and plug them in.\nPut the two screws back in holding the burner hood to the back wall.\nScrew the igniter to the burner bar, it has four holes. It should be the holes that mount it closest to the burner bar.\nFeed the plug and all the excess wire back through the hole in the back wall. Make sure the wires aren't touching the burner bar.\nReinstall the \"D\" shaped cover.\nReinstall the heat shield.\nPlug in the oven.\nTurn the gas valve on.\nTurn on the oven, stand to the side and back a ways... safety first.\nAfter 3-5 seconds the bar should beging to glow bright orange, then the gas will come on and light.\nIf it's working turn it off and replace the baking shield and it's two screws.\nDone... Good luck!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3724, "id": 107819, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 512, "len_tokens": 641, "text": "We bought this washer and the companion front-loading dryer in December 2011 and loved it, it worked great.  Easy to use, did a wonderful job, no complaints whatsoever.  Around August 2012 I started noticing that the spin cycle sounded louder than normal though there wasn't any obvious \"broken\" noise to it so I thought maybe I was imagining things.  Since then it's gotten progressively worse and now has started making a sad asynchronous thunking noise when it spins along with a roar that sounds like a train is passing through our living room.  It's gotten so loud that we can't even be in the same part of the house without having to shout at one another to be heard.  \"IS THIS NORMAL?\" I asked my husband and he answered, \"I DON'T KNOW, WASN'T IT ALWAYS LOUD BEFORE?\"  This week a couple of loads have been left sopping wet so something was surely amiss.  A friend was over and heard the washer in full swing and said, \"Whoa, what is up with that thing?  That is not normal!\"\n\nI searched online for \"Maytag 4000\" and found a number of reported issues online about this very washer.  I realize, now, that we had become so desensitized to the noise of this thing over a year's worth of time that we didn't notice just how bad it had gotten.  It's pretty bad.  Search for a YouTube video \"Daily Greg Maytag 4000\" - this cinched it for us as it sounds *exactly* like our washer so we're calling Home Depot in the morning to hopefully get some sort of resolution.  Thankfully we have a 4-year extended warranty.  I'm a little worried as I've read multiple reports about the washer being repaired and having the same issue recur after a few months.  I really hope we're able to get it fixed for good because it wasn't cheap.\n\nNow before anyone starts saying I'm a moron who can't read manuals please be assure I did read the manual and we had the machine leveled when it was delivered and we only use Charlie's Soap HE detergent - 1 tbs (sometimes less) per load.  We don't stuff the crap out of the thing or otherwise abuse it.  Now it scares the daylights out of the cats and wakes the neighbors.  To say I am disappointed in what was a pretty large household investment for us is an understatement.\n\nUpdate 06/18/2013: Right after writing my review we had a repairman in and he had to replace the main rotor and the entire wash basket.  The works had gotten so unbalanced that all the parts were shot.  After replacing the guts, tracking tons of dirt and gross sooty crap all over my hallway, and leveling the machine, it works fine again.  I'm very glad we got the 4-year service plan for this machine as I expect we'll be calling them back in another eight months or so.  The invoice for the repair was more than we paid for the machine brand new - thank goodness for service plans!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3725, "id": 107827, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 465, "len_tokens": 633, "text": "I purchased a Maytag washer, the 9000 Series, model MHWE950WW, in October of 2010.  The washing machine seemed to work fine until about 1 month ago, when the washer became loud in the spin cycle.  Finally, last week the noise and vibration became intolerable.  We called Maytag service, (we have a service contract) and they sent a service man a couple of days ago.  He was in the house five minutes, when he spun the tub by hand and stated that the bearings were shot.  He said that it would take about ten days before the new parts would be installed.  The bearings in a 16 month old machine were SHOT?  How can that be?  According to the service man, \"it happens\".  Oh Really?  It happens if the product is DEFECTIVE AND PORLY MADE.  Wait!  It gets better.  Two days later I received a call from Maytag's service people, and was told that the machine would cost $689.00 to repair with new bearings, and that the prorated value of the machine was $629.00, therefore they were not going to replace the bearings, but would instead reimburse me $629.00 instead, since the value of the machine was now less than the cost to repair it with new bearings.\nThe cost for the washer was $899.00; the cost for the washer's service contract was $186.31, for three years.  Maytag is sending me $629.00 for all my troubles, on a machine that is 16 months old.  Get this!!!  They will not reimburse me for the remaining 3 years on my service contract.  They claim that it is part of the claim total.  So here is how it breaks down:  $899.00 (excluding taxes and delivery) for the washer, $186.31 for the service contract until 2014. That brings my out of pocket total to $1085.31.  I am getting back only $629.00.  You do the math!  I lost $456.32 in the whole process in less than 16 months and do not have a working washing machine to boot.  WAY TO GO MAYTAG!  You will not see one cent of my money ever again, and I make will it my life's work to bad mouth you and your products, every time I pass by a sellers appliance section.  I will tell everyone in my development, in my city, in my state, and anyone who will listen, to avoid your products like the plague that you and they are.  Your products, business model and your customer service, are the world's worst.  Fool me once, shame on you.  Fool me twice?  Well, you will never get that chance again.  Personally, I will work toward making your company and its products extinct.  It is what you deserve for shoddy products and bad business practices.\nI wish you nothing, because that is what you deserve.  NOTHING!!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3726, "id": 108311, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 537, "len_tokens": 604, "text": "I bought this refrigerator in October 2010 for $2,390.  It works, but this refrigerator sells for a premium price and is not a premium refrigerator, especially the ice making capability.\n\nAs many others have pointed out in their reviews, the ice maker often quits making ice.  The problem comes from the ice maker not always detecting when the bin is full so additional ice gets jammed up in the mechanical mechanism and no more ice is made.  What happens is that ice from the compartment gets caught up in the mechanism so that when additional water flows and freezes the ice in the mechanism becomes a big blob of connected ice cubes and binds the mechanism so no more ice gets made.\n\nYou can \"fix\" the problem by removing the ice bin, unscrewing the anchor screw on the left front side of the ice making mechanism, and sliding forward the ice maker mechanism where the top tabs align with cutouts. This allows your to drop the ice maker down to where you can rotate it the left and see the frozen mass of water inside that clogs up the operation. The connecting electrical cable from the mechanism to the back of the ice making compartment does not detach in any way that I can find. There is just enough slack in the cable to move the mechanism to the slots to let it drop down for inspection and defrosting.  Since you can't completely remove the mechanism to do the defrosting, you have to leave it in the compartment and carefully use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the ice blob enough to remove the ice that binds up the mechanism. I put several micro-fiber cloths in the bottom of the ice maker cavity and gently use a heat gun to melt the ice enough to remove the big blob of ice then dry everything out, put the mechanism back in place, and ice making works for a while.\n\nOnce you do this the first time it is pretty easy to do a couple of times a year if you are half-way handy.  You only have to remove the one screw on the left side that holds the mechanism into the ice making compartment.  You can also remove the top screw and gently lift up the mechanism top cover just enough to take a peek, but there are other screws in the back that can't be easily reached, so you may not want to take the risk of breaking the top cover of the mechanism.  The mechanism is open on the right side, so rotating it to the left gives you access to heat up and defrost the ice that builds up and binds the mechanism.\n\nSince the basic design of this ice maker is flawed, defrosting isn't a fix, but a temporary remedy to the problem.  I hate to think how many people have paid to have the ice making mechanism replaced when all that was wrong was a frozen up mechanism due to this design flaw.\n\nThis product should have been better designed and tested before being sold, especially the ice maker.  It is definitely not a premium refrigerator with this ice maker.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3727, "id": 108793, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 519, "len_tokens": 631, "text": "FIRST UNIT FAULTY, SECOND PERFECT: The first unit I received had a noisy compressor that would make a metal \"clunk\" sound every time the compressor turned on or off. The compressor still worked 100% in terms of cooling temperature, just was noisy. I had the first fridge for 5 months and decided to see if SPT would replace it because the 30 day Amazon warranty was long gone. SPT told me they would repair or replace it if they found a problem even though in their warranty it says different. This fridge is under manufacture warranty for 1 year from the purchase date. Luckily, the SPT warehouse is in City of Industry, CA, which was close to me so I dropped it off. SPT had it for 4 days, called me and said they couldn't repair so they would send me new one, shipped it for free. Turn around time was 7 days which is pretty quick in my opinion. Got the new one and it is super quiet and did not make any \"clunk\" sounds. The repair tech even took the new fridge out of the box, switched the side the front door hinge is on, and packed it back up.\n\nFunctionality: A packed fridge will get very cold especially on the highest setting \"6\". 3-4 setting still works pretty well. Freezer is small as others have stated. It will 'almost' freeze large items. Small items like burritos or breakfast sandwiches will freeze normally. A small tray of ice cubes will freeze. A bottle of alcohol will get to the temp you need it.\n\nIS IT QUIET? Yes! I realize the idea of how noisy a product is, is subjective. I'm very sensitive to noises when I sleep and this unit did not wake or keep me up. The unit is about 10 ft from my head. You can hear when the compressor comes on, but it is very minimal. If you have this in an office or an area where people are on phones you will NOT hear this.\n\nHELPFUL FEATURES: The door hinge can be placed on either side which was helpful for me. You have to manually change it though. Instructions included on how to do that.  Pretty easy to do. You basically move the hinge from one side to the other with some screws and bolts, and the door will swing open which ever way fits best for the owner.\n\nRATING: I debated giving it 4 stars instead of 5. Even though the first fridge was faulty, SPT stood by their product, plus the fridge is quality, does its job well, looks sharp, and is at the perfect price point. It deserves 5 stars.\n\nOTHER CONSIDERATIONS: If this fridge is going into a poorly lit room, I highly recommend buying a cheap, battery-powered motion sensor LED light and stick it to the top of the fridge using some double-sided tape. The one I purchased for my fridge is on eBay for $6.26. Just copy/paste \"8 LED Light Lamp IR Auto Sensor Motion Detector Energy\" into eBay search bar.\n\nAny questions feel free to ask.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3728, "id": 110298, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 532, "len_tokens": 636, "text": "This is a great product.  It sure beats the original one. My fridge is an older GE side by side. It had three screws holding the original to the left wall of the compartment and the water entered from the back. The male electrical connector in the unit required me to use the complete length of the cord.\n  I read some people struggled with this...\"the cords too long and hangs down\".  Well I just test-fitted it first (test fit:  just drop it over the two retaining screws manipulated the cord the way you want it: not hanging and with the cord connector in correct alignment with the one in the wall of the unit, then remove the unit). Make sure the switch on the new unit is OFF when doing this.  You'll find out whay later.\n  After doing this I heated the cord with a heat gun on LOW, this softened the sheating up and allowed me to squash cord into kind of a long-flat-s shape.  Then let it cool in that shape,  You get the idea.\n  As I said, my water source it from the rear and there was no water cup/trough on the old icemaker, water just came out of the tube into the ice tray.  Well ,in this kit there is a water cup/though that just snaps into the rear of the new ice maker (THIS IS NOT MENTIONED IN THE INSTRUCTION BOOK).  That's cool, but wait the tube in the back of the ice compartment is TOO SHORT!\n  DON'T try to pull the old one out of the unit.  The one in the kit is designed to slip right over the existing one. No clamps needed.  So, if your original one is too short, cut the new one to the correct length and just slide it over the original tube. Don't worry about being too precise with the length you can slide it back and forth with little effort if it doen't fit quite right into the cup/trough. This is another test-fit that should be done before the next step. Once you have the right location leave it in that position.\n  Almost there.  Make sure the switch is in the OFF position on the new unit.  If not OFF chances are the water solenoid is going to energize when you plug in the electrical connector and dispense water into the freezer compartment.\n  Now you are ready to just slip the new unit over the two screws while slipping water hose into the cup/trough, plug in the electrical connector and then tighten the two screws.\n  Put the ice catcher and whatever else you removed to gain acces to the ice maker back in position.\n  Turn the switch to ON. The water solenoid should have turned on and filled the tray as soon as you put it in the ON position.\nDon't worry if it did not.  If you are sure that the connector is properly seated and the water source to the ice maker is okay. Just close the door and walk away. The tray has to get to the right temperature before it can start dispensing cubes.\n  Within 24 hours you will have 400 ice cubes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3729, "id": 110594, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 533, "len_tokens": 669, "text": "6/15/2015 update: water leaking on the floor from this part, weird poppyseed sized and colored globules on everything in the tub. New dishwasher time; predictably (due to wife vetos) the new dishwasher costs a couple hundred more than the cheapest. Even so, not worth repairing a machine with rusting racks and floor panels. Since I got the Supco (not the GE) pump, left another review there.\n=======================================\nCame with instructions from an outfit called \"Exact Replacement Parts\", the instructions give the part number as being ERWD26X10013 (the ER presumably standing for Exact Replacement), and it looks just like a cheaper part I saw elsewhere on Amazon. So, if you're thinking of spending the extra $10+ on the theory you're getting official GE, don't bother. (Update: the cheaper seemingly identical part I saw on Amazon (by Supco) isn't cheaper anymore, you might be able to find it cheaper elsewhere.) It appears necessary to pull out the dishwasher out some (less than half way) so the front can be raised enough to leave enough room to get the assemblies out and in. In my case, wish I'd known to unscrew the latch plate screws (which stick out considerably further than they need to) at the inside top of the machine some or entirely, so one wouldn't have caught on and ripped the countertop. If the machine seems caught on something on the way out, make sure it isn't these screws (or anything else) caught on the formica before forcing the issue. I'm seeing elsewhere that its a good idea to screw the front legs in some also, to give a little clearance (wouldn't that put the full weight of the machine on the center feet?) and to permit putting something under the legs to avoid damaging the floor; while the feet of mine were rusted, the screws are clean and turn easily (one leg wobbles alot, and the nut's too dirty to see what the issue is; generally, the legs aren't what I'd call robust). The socket sizes for the original clamps ended up being 1/4\" and 5/16\", but you need a small socket wrench, to be creative with extensions, and to feel your way around. So far, its been making the \"slight grinding noises\" the instructions claim will soon go away. It also comes with a confusing ton of extra parts, which I guess I'll throw away, but it might have been a good idea to use the screws it came with, since there was a certain cross threading feel to using the original screws. Watch out for the two electrical connectors also: they are identical and can be flipped, but one is for the solenoid and one is for the motor, so its best to take a photo of the original wiring before you proceed (fortunately, I'd taken at least one picture to show where my leak was). Give serious consideration to getting a new professionally installed dishwasher instead; my lower rack has rusted through, and they aren't cheap. New dishwashers start in the $300s (though you'll probably spend more), installs might be $150. If you decide to repair anyway, maybe my bad experience can help you avoid damaging your formica.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3730, "id": 110736, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 512, "len_tokens": 623, "text": "Our oven was taking longer and longer to reach the desired temperature, which is the classic sign of an oven igniter that needs to be replaced.  Basically, there are two types of igniters that will fit the majority of ovens.  They're either rectangular, like this one, called \"flat,\" or they're cylindrical, called \"round.\"  All I had to do was take a peek under the oven, where the flame comes out of the gas pipe, and there was the very obvious flat (rectangular) igniter.  This igniter replaces all flat igniters, so there's no need to worry about what brand the oven is.\n\nFirst step: turn off the power to the oven at the circuit breaker box.\n\nImportant note: the actual igniter element is mounted inside a protective metal cage for a reason.  Don't touch it with anything, especially with your bare hands.  It's very fragile.\n\nTo access the old igniter, I removed the bottom of the inside of the oven with the two thumb screws inside in the back of the oven (I was, at first, tempted to try to reach it in the way that I first was able to see it, through the bottom, broiler, compartment.  This proved to be a mistake and a waste of time).  Then, I removed the spreader plate that hovers directly over the flame.  At that point, the igniter was easy to reach and in plain sight.  I snipped the wires as close to the igniter as possible, to give myself plenty of slack to work with (you can cut a wire shorter, but you can't cut it longer).  I stripped a little insulation from the ends of each wire and used the ceramic wire caps that came with the new one to attach it in place of the old one.  Polarity doesn't matter; no need to worry about which wire to connect to which.  Never use plastic wire caps in an oven.  I screwed the new one in place and tucked the excess wire out of the way, put the oven back together, and turned the power back on.\n\nMy first test run took ten minutes to reach 400 degrees, which is a great improvement.  It used to take over an hour.  I've had it in place for a month and a half with no problems.  I'm not especially skilled at repairs, but I think this repair can be done by anyone who owns a pair of pliers and has a very basic understanding of how to splice two wires.  The fact that it was a gas oven sounds scary, but the repair seemed simple, safe, and relatively quick (about fifteen minutes of actual work, plus ten minutes of deciding how I was going to do it).  Leaning over the oven door, into the chamber, required significant lower back strength, so anyone who might not be able to hold that awkward position while working should consider finding someone who can, or finding a way to remove the door from its hinges and still be able to get it back on afterward.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3731, "id": 110773, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 498, "len_tokens": 612, "text": "When my GE oven would not turn on this past Sunday night, I needed a quick replacement. I knew nothing about ovens, but I dreaded calling for a technician. A little internet research showed that my ignitor was likely the culprit. After identifying my original ignitor as a Norton 501A, I found this product on Amazon. As others have mentioned, this is an genuine Norton 501A GE replacement part. After replacing the ignitor, the oven worked perfectly and the flames came on within a minute. I had everything up and working by Tuesday. It was a very simple repair and only requires a screwdriver (to unmount/mount the ignitor) and a set of pliers (to cut, strip and splice the wires). Here's a few notes for others who may have never had experience with this type of repair.\n\n- You may notice that no gas flows and believe it's an issue with gas and not an issue with the ignitor. But the gas valve is connected in series with the ignitor. If the current through the ignitor is not sufficient, the gas valve will not turn on. This is a safety feature that prevents gas build-up without an ignition source. This means that if your ignitor does not glow or only glows dimly, the current will not be sufficient to release gas.\n- You can measure the current if you have a current clamp or if you can insert an ammeter in series with your circuit. But do this only if you absolutely know what you are doing, as it requires a live current and, remember, you are working in an oven! A working ignitor will draw around 3.2 amps. If you don't have one, don't worry. Just replace the ignitor anyway as it's the most likely point of failure in many cases and is cheap to replace.\n- Flat/square ignitors (like this one, with the metal rectangular cage) are generally not compatible with the round ignitors. They draw different currents. Make sure to get the right type. Brands generally don't matter, as most square ignitors draw the same current, but my vary slightly in size. This happens to be the cheapest one I could find.\n- Your old ignitor may have come with a plastic plug at the end. This model (GE WB2X9998) is a bare wire at the end and comes with 2 ceramic wire nuts. The easiest way to use this is to cut the plug off the old ignitor and splice it onto the new ignitor. Wire polarity is not an issue. If you are not comfortable with this, you may want to look into GE WB13K21, which has a plug.\n- The current photo doesn't show it, but there are mounting tabs (for the two screws that will hold the ignitor in place) coming from both sides. Just bend down the side you don't need.\n- When you remove your old ignitor, don't throw away the screws. This does not come with screws.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3732, "id": 111666, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 579, "len_tokens": 673, "text": "Last week we purchased this Cabrio 5700 washer along with a 5600 dryer(non glass front,Great Buy!). We really did not need the washing machine as we have a Maytag conventional 2 years old; however our original GE dryer died and we went ahead and bought anyway because of the fantastic Labor day sales and $100 in rebates from the local power company and State. We do a lot of laundry. We have two young boys who get clothes dirty, quickly and my wife an I also have uniforms that need frequent washing. I am always a skeptic and overly research items, peruse product reviews into the wee hours of the morning, basically become a bit obsessive over the whole deal (per wife).\nAs I write, I am conducting yet another experiment to see what this thing can handle. It is on the Heavy Duty cycle-Heavy soil-cool water- Deep clean option. I have in the machine, 6 pair of 11 oz canvas hiking pants, 1 pair of bluejeans (all sized 36/34) and two thick Field-n-Stream non lined flannel shirts. The load is up to the top of the stainless tub and the clothes are semi loose, spread around the center. This is a heavy load for clothes and I would not normally load it this thick. Initially the tub fills with the soapy solution and then agitates. The agitator is definitely under some stress as the motion is measurably subdued compared to a normal load of mixed fabrics. The tub fills 3 more times as the cycle progresses. The manual states on the Heavy Duty cycle that it will do this because the recommended fabrics for the cycle absorb more water than normal type loads. Because the machine has a glass top, I am able to observe the whole cycle. Through out the course of the cycle, all of the items eventually make it through the solution a few times. I had my doubts but was proved wrong. This load when wet looked like quite a force to recon with however the machine did as advertised and being able to observe this through the glass top is a real plus.\nWhites cycle is excellent!. Bulky cycle handled a queen size thick cotton hand made quilt very well. The water level in the tub on the Bulky setting is quite a lot. I did have to open the lid and even out the quilt due to it having an unbalanced load during the spin cycle. The wet quilt was sooo heavy that this was sort of expected. Not a concern for us. Today I washed 4 washable silk shirts on the delicate cycle and these came out great as well. The delicate cycle also fills up with a higher level of water and agitator speeds are slower. We have put towels through the Heavy Duty cycle and the Whites cycle  and have had no issues. No twisting into knots or ripping. FWIW Front load washers are not exempt from tying items into knots! A feature I wish this had is what Whirlpool put into the larger capacity models which is when the load is going through the initial soak down, the basket rotates so all of the load gets saturated. Currently the load makes it through anyways via agitation so this wish is not a deal breaker. I DO recommend this product. If it did not meet my expectations it would have been sent back, Period!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3733, "id": 112231, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 521, "len_tokens": 603, "text": "UPDATE: 10 months after purchase, the dishwasher stopped working. After waiting two weeks for a Samsung technician, he was unable to fix it, claiming he had the wrong part. To Samsung's credit, they called me the next day and offered to refund me my total purchase price for the appliance, which I accepted. I guess the moral is that this isn't the most reliable dishwasher on the market, but Samsung stood by their product, at least during the warranty period, and made me whole for my purchase.\n\nWe researched dishwashers to replace a Bosch dishwasher that had recently gone to dishwasher heaven. We had consistent trouble with the Bosch electronics which kept going bad, so we avoided them even though they are recommended in many reviews as the best, including Consumer Reports. We kept coming back to the Samsung DMT800 and 400 and finally settled on the 400. The biggest difference we could see was that the 800 had a delayed start feature which we knew we'd never use.\n\nThis dishwasher gets everything squeaky clean, and we do absolutely no pre-rinsing of our dishes. The Samsung is so quiet that you honestly can't tell that it's running! The ergonomics of the unit are beautiful, with the controls on top of the door so the lines on the front of the dishwasher are only broken by the curved handle and three inconspicuous blue LEDs that track the progress of the wash.\n\nI have only one minor complaint and one warning. The complaint is that there is no indicator to show that the dishwasher is finished and contains clean dishes. Consider this scenario. I turn the dishwasher on before I leave the house. My wife comes home later in the afternoon and has no way of knowing that the wash inside the unit contains clean dishes. Not a biggee, but it would be nice to have something that showed the cycle has completed.\n\nThe warning is that this dishwasher is just a tad deeper than other dishwashers. Be careful that you measure accurately and that you have sufficient depth for the Samsung. We needed to take down the sheetrock behind the unit to gain the extra quarter inch we needed.\n\nAll in all, it looks like we made a wise choice. I wouldn't recommend Bosch due to our experience with repairs, and after the first 3 weeks, the Samsung seems to have been a wise choice.\n\nUPDATE: We've owned this dishwasher now for a few months and still love it. One correction to the lack of a completion indicator I made above. If you choose \"Sanitize\", that light will remain on after the cycle to show that the dishes inside are clean. The right-most blue indicator on the front of the door that is actually is programmed to show that the load is completed goes off after 20 minutes. We choose Sanitize for all of our wash loads and it is how we tell whether the dishes inside are clean. The light will go off once the door is opened to empty the dishwasher and not come on again until the next cycle.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3734, "id": 112236, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 570, "len_tokens": 659, "text": "I am writing in reference to an ongoing leakage issue with a dishwasher purchased in March 2013. I purchased the dishwasher knowing how well Samsung products were reliable and manufactured by a well know company. I worked hard to save enough money to buy the \"complete package\" of kitchen appliance, and wanted nothing but the BEST in my eyes. I have always purchased Samsung products with never a disappointment or complaint until now. I had my dishwasher installed April 2013, due to waiting until the complete package could be purchased a little at a time. Installation was so exciting for me I had waited 14 years for new appliances. In Oct 2013, my dishwasher stopped working and the \"heavy\" cycle button was blinking,so as a consumer I retrieve my owners manual,and it states leakage, with several options to try example holding the cancel/drain button down to reset, with  no luck. I contacted customer service to schedule a repair the customer service scheduled my appointment for Oct 22,2013,almost 3 weeks later. The morning of my service call I called the company to get a \"window\" for repairs and was told the appointment was cancelled by Samsung. I then got back on the phone to follow up with Samsung immediately,they advised my appointment has been filled,and the tech could not make it. The appointment was rescheduled for Oct 28,2013,at this time when the tech showed up,the dishwaher had dried the water from the leakage and reset itself,the tech did nothing to try to diagnose the problem and listed it as possible circuit board,and left my home. Approximately 4 months later the same issues started. I contacted Samsung again regarding this issue. This time it was 3 days out of warranty, they agreed to pay for parts only,I said that is not an option this is an ongoing issue, with arguing finally the agreed to send out a tech. March 15,2014 and tech came to my home and saw/found a leakage,and states tub stainless replace or sump assembly leaking,thats the part they ordered for follow up. March 25,2014 they replaced the sump assembly. July 2014 the issues start again, this time Samsung would not send out a tech without me paying for labor fees,and would not give into your policies,after a long process and finally agreeing to pay,we scheduled another appointment for a different company to service my same issue as the beginning. This tech that arrived at my home states leaking at tub not repairable. Tech called tech line for replacement and to advise Samsung\nI received a return authorization number and waited to here from Samsung, when no one called I called and was told sorry out of warranty we will add you to the buyback program. Unknown to the consumer this program is a depreciated value of the original purchase price. Further investigation I found my warranty that states Lifetime stainless door liner and tub for leakage, Samsung will replace your unit with same or current model that is better or equivalent  in functionality. I have contacted everyone possible about these issues,and am getting no results. Please help the everyday consumer be completely satisfied and feel  secure that your company does believe you make the BEST products and stand behind the consumer and your products. I have had no luck.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3735, "id": 112272, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 543, "len_tokens": 638, "text": "Ther is a little use \"gotcha\" you need to be aware of if you buy one of these. There is a child lock that is suppoused to be activated by holding down the sanitize buttion for 3 seconds. If you do this by accident the dishwasher will power on and all the lights cycle except the rinse button will stay on and the unit will not start washing dishes. Re-filling the jef-dry dispenser will do nothing. If this happens hold the sanitize button down 3 seconds it will flash then the rinse button will go off and it will go into the last wash mode you had it in and start. Found out the hard wasy now back to the review.\n\nJust re-did the kitchen initallly from electric stove to gas stove then the rest to stainless to match the new stove.\n\nKitchen looks great. The last and hardest thing we bought was the dishwasher. After the stove the fridge and washer/dryer was easy. Went into a big box store to get a price match on a new stainless steel hood for the stove and they had fridges and washer/dryer on sale at 40 to 50% off. Checked reviews and bought Samsung. Later found out JD Powers had the washer/dryer tops in relabili6ty and the fridge second.\n\nO.K. what does that have to do with a dishwasher review? It was as hard to decide on a dishwasher as it was easy to decide on the others.\n\nIt is rare to find good reviews on any dishwasher. Problems with drying, loading, how well it cleaned or more specific did not clean was everywhere.\n\nDecided on this unit because it matched the fridge. Ok not the best reason but at that point it was live with the white Maytag that still did everything very well or go stainless and decor won out.\n\nOrdered and got installed. Washed the first few loads with more than a little apprehension. It does the job. Dishes and glasses are clean. It is very quite and the stainless interior was the best looking in the price range.\n\nOnly problem is drying. Being energy efficient it does not dry as hot as the Maytag, but it is a lot less noisy doing it. There is some moisture left in glasses that have a recessed bottom. The rest no problem.\n\nFor all but one have used the auto feature. It fills then runs a couple of sweeps stops for a couple of seconds then washes. It take about an hour during which time it is super quite. You could literally carry on a conservation in front of it not like the old days when you had to leave the area.\n\nIt does have heated dry or appears to since when you open it there is still quite a bit of heat.\n\nFot the bucks it is a good deal, however the exterior is not stainless as it fails the magnet test. The inside passes. Magnets will not stick to staniless steel which I am sure makes many Moms and GrandMoms unhappy with not being able to turn the front of the fridge into a child drawing etc gallery.\n\nAlso don't on this as most new dishwahers forget to use a drying agent.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3736, "id": 115793, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 483, "len_tokens": 610, "text": "That estimate obviously doesn't include taking all the crap off the top of the fridge before you move it...\n\nWell, I read the reviews and watched the videos and decided I could handle this DiY project.\n\nThat said, it wasn't all as advertized. Forget about it being a 15 minute project.\n\nIt also doesn't include the time you'll need to spend cleaning/sweeping the floor under the appliance, or vacuuming all the cobwebs and other dirt off the walls behind it. And don't think I'm a super-neatnik, but the fridge hadn't been moved in a couple of years (why would it?), so this added 20 minutes or so to the project. (Glad my spouse wasn't there, or I'd have had to paint the walls back there...)\n\nThen, there was another 20 minutes to remove enough of the frozen food so I could work on the ice maker install. (You'll be amazed at the old stuff in there - packages of hot dogs from 2011, etc.)\n\nFinally, I got to the actual install. The removal of the old ice maker went fine. Don't remove the top two screws, just loosen them and lift the old unit off them. Needed a flathead screwdriver to disconnect the old wiring harness. No big deal.\n\nNew parts fit fine. I saw the video, so I didn't need to read the instructions that came w/ the new parts. Not like the instructions were readable: a piece of 6\"x7\" paper that was about as thick as toilet paper. The \"instructions\" and illustrations were in 5 pt type. Not to worry - I saw the video...\n\nInstall of the new unit went smoothly, until I realized that the piece you use for the lower screw to attach to the freezer wall as well as hold it up securely - it wasn't pre-attached to the new unit. So, I smacked myself for not reading the unreadable instructions, until I realized they didn't say anything about doing that before you screwed the side-mounts in.\n\nAggravating, but after another 20 minutes, I got this lower brace installed without taking the new unit out and re-installing it. If you can't do this without taking the new unit out, it will only add another 5 minutes, unless you strip one of the screws; then you're screwed - royally.\n\nGot the appliance plugged back in, and pushed it back into position. Took another 10 minutes to clean up the floor and the counters, and put away the tools.\n\nSix hours later it started producing ice. Been cranking it out for the last week. No probs.\n\nSpouse thinks I'm a pretty handy wiz, so it's all worth it. For this, I'd give it six stars if I could.\n\nJust make sure you allocate enough extra time for all the things the video doesn't show you have to be done. Or maybe you're handier than me (wouldn't be hard...).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3737, "id": 116439, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 540, "len_tokens": 674, "text": "I didn't have much experience with Whirlpool brand until I bought the Duet set 3 weeks ago (8/15/12). I haven't had any issues with the washer (mechanisms, maintenance, other appliance issues) so this review will focus on the overall performance of this particular model. I had a top loading, high efficiency washer before this and had a real problem with clothes coming out not-so-clean, twisted up to the point of ruination, or not even wet all the way through. I endured it for a few years though because, evidently, returning a washer would have proven how picky and ungrateful I was to my husband. So we bought the Duet from Sears and I've had it for 3 weeks. A note about my household: I have two, very dirty boys and my husband is a plumber. I deal with dirt, grime and nastiness of epic proportions. I would love a commercial front loader! Unfortunately, I don't have $5K to spend on a washer. My expectations were pretty high for a front loader because I've seen some in action and everything seems to get sloshed pretty good which, I'm assuming, means they're extremely good at cleaning clothes. This particular model takes about an 1 1/2 to 2 hours to clean a load of my husbands work clothes to my satisfaction. That's on the warm, Heavy Duty cycle, with pre-soak, extra rinse, and an added deep clean (I just pushed that button, I don't really know what it does differently). HIS clothes came out good, although waiting 2 hours for one load seems excessive. It's the other cycles I tried that I really am unsatisfied with. MY clothes I washed on cool, Gentle cycle, with an extra rinse and I pulled out shirts that weren't even thoroughly wet! That's with TWO rinses! I watched my clothes for a few minutes as the water was being squirted on them and as they began to wash, and my opinion is that this washer is WAAAAY too stingy with water. I can understand being environmentally responsible. I try to use as many environmentally friendly products as possible in my home. HOWEVER, this is an extreme. You can't wash clothes without water. PERIOD. They do not come out clean. You must have water separating and then freely moving clothes before, I feel, they are properly cleaned. I don't think you need 13 gallons of water, like the old washers used to use, but using 2 to 3 gallons on a large load and thinking they're going to come out clean is utterly ridiculous. I tried asking some appliance sales people if they knew of any washer that was \"water efficient\" but not \"high efficient\" and, other than the old fashioned top loading kind, all washers are high efficiency. Drat. So, my pretty Duet set is a major let down. Perhaps, I'll figure out a way with my current settings to wash my clothes in a satisfactory way, or maybe I'll chuck the thing in the yard and slap a \"Free\" sign on it. I just thought consumers from average family size households should know that this washer, while very cute and sleek, is not at all efficient in the way I need it to be.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3738, "id": 116462, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 442, "len_tokens": 606, "text": "1.) The Purchase:\nI purchased my Duet Steam Model Number WFW9500TW01 on 11/04/08.\n\n2.) The Problem:\n7/1/2011 It started getting the F35 error.\n\n3.) The Troubleshooting:\nI was able to open the top of the washer and go through some of the troubleshooting that I saw online (disconnecting the hose, blowing back into the washer) which seemed to fix it for about 10 loads but then again it started SUDS / F35 non-stop. I called a local repair service and found that I needed the \"analog water pressure level sensor\" which apparently had been discontinued by Whirlpool and replaced with a re-engineered part.\n\n4.) The Part needed out of stock and backordered for months:\nOld Part: W10156252\nNew Part: W10415587\n\nThe local repair service said that the part was on national backorder and according to their main supplier it had been so for 2 months. The new shipment of these parts was supposed to arrive 7/18/2011. On 7/18/2011 nobody called me to tell me whether or not they were in, so I called Whirlpool and escalated the issue with them.\n\n5.) The call to Whirlpool:\n First I spoke with Emma, she confirmed the part was now on a preliminary delivery date of 7/29/11. I shared my frustrations and she transferred me to a \"specialist\", who, spoke as if she was chewing her own face - her name was \"Candy\" from Tennessee. I knew that I wasn't going to get anywhere with her so I escalated to her manager \"Austin\". \"Austin\" tried or said he tried to find the part from a couple of sources but couldn't. He said:\n\n \"Sir, in this case what we need to do is get this to our Product Review Board who may offer you a replacement unit. They will call you within 24 hours\".\n\n6.) The call from the Whirlpool Product Review Board:\nThe next day 7/19/2010 a woman named Tihate called me and said that I qualified for a new replacement machine. She went on to explain that it was a newer model but would still fit on my pedestals that I purchased and would be white like my old model.\n\n6a.) One Small Thing:\nTihate added that there would be a small fee for the new washer of $578.57\n\n7.) The final resolution.\nI politely declined her offer. I will now wait for the part, fix the washer and sell it along with every Whirlpool, GE and Maytag appliance in my home.\n\nMy new LG washing machine will be here tomorrow, with a standard 10 year warranty which costs about $150 more than the replacement from Whirlpool.\n\nP.S.\nTihate's direct number is 1-866-640-7146 ext 6496", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3739, "id": 120346, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 545, "len_tokens": 698, "text": "Horrible. DO NOT buy it.\n\nHere's why:\n\n1. Doesn't get your clothes clean.\n\n2. No way to adjust or turn off settings (Yes, I gave the manual a detailed read)\n\n3. The automatic lid-lock is annoying and there's no way to turn it off. So if you accidentally left a pair of your dirty undies upstairs and already started a load in the washer you have to reset the washer, wait for it to unlock the lid, then throw-in forgotten items. Pain in the you-know-where. And just plain stupid.\n\n4. No agitator to get clothes clean. Spends a TON of time just sitting there doing nothing while \"washing\" your laundry.\n\n5. Inadequate spin. Sometimes if you don't use the right wash settings (again, maddeningly vague in the instruction manual), or an item you are washing is particularly absorbent, sometimes when the machine thinks its done \"washing\" your stuff, the laundry load will be absolutely drenched by the time its done as if it didn't spin at all! And don't bother using the \"Drain/Spin\" feature. The thing just bumps and clumps around for a while, acting like its doing something, then when you go to check it again, surprise! Still drenched. The best way I've found to fix this problem is just to run the wash all over again with a different setting. Which is ironic because this is supposed to be an energy and water efficient machine.\n\nI don't know whose time and energy Maytag thinks they're saving. Certainly not mine. It takes twice as long to do my wash and clothes don't always come clean forcing me to re-run the machine. Also the \"technology\" that is supposed to make your life easier and save you money, doesn't. It's just a gimmick for a crappy product.\n\nI may not be the sharpest tool in the shed but I have really tried everything to make this thing work well for me. I'm here to say it doesn't work. Don't waste your money. I wish to heck I hadn't.\n\nHonestly, the best washer I have ever seen in my life, was my mother's old Whirlpool from the late 1960's. Sure it didn't have all the gimmicky technology, the bells and whistles, and you may scoff, but its totally true. The thing filled all the way up with water, agitated like no other and got it all done in a reasonable about of time. You could also control the amount of water for each load, as opposed to some \"sensor\" (yea right, if I knew what I was looking for, I'd almost be tempted to bust the thing open to see if there really is a \"sensor\" telling the machine how much water to use. How can I tell if I can't even open the darn thing while its working?) doing it for you. *Sigh* I long for that old Whirlpool machine now. Seriously, if someone went back in time and brought be a brand new washing machine from the 50's or 60's, I'd throw this piece of crap in the back alleyway and leave it for some sucker to pick it up.\n\nI hate this thing (Maytag MVWC400XW Top Load Washer).\n\nWish I could get rid of it and get my money back.\n\nDon't buy it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3740, "id": 120404, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 551, "len_tokens": 684, "text": "Update; 6 years later, it is still working fine.\n\nI have a Kenmore model 110.62602100 dryer.\n\nLast week, it stopped heating up.  The dryer is over 10 years old, as is the washer and they are a bit rusty, so I looked at replacing them.  The reviews I read on new washers and dryers showed me that they are not as reliable and don't wash as good as the older models.  There are some energy and water savings to be had with newer washers, but it would take years for that to repay itself, and I'd have a lower quality washer and drier in the mean-time.  I also looked at getting a new gas dryer, which would cut my energy bill, but was looking at about $500 for a high quality one.  Again, not worth the savings...\n\nSo, I unplugged the dryer and flipped it forward.  I found that the people who installed it had crushed the exhaust duct, which resulted in it filling with lint and increasing drying times, not to mention creating a fire-hazard.\n\nI removed the duct and back panel, which had 9 screws holding it on.  Once I pulled the panel off, I instantly saw that the spade connection to the heating element had burned itself into oblivion.  The connector went into the thermostat, so I needed a new thermostat as well.  I found the part numbers at sears.com, which showed the heating element to be back-ordered.\n\nI did a google search which showed this kit on Amazon, so I ordered it.  It took a little longer than desired for it to come, but within the estimated window.  I am really spoiled by the free 2-day prime shipping, so paying extra for expedited shipping and having it take 4 days is a bit galling.  Oh well...\n\nThe heating element was held on with 2 screws.  After removing them, it slid right out.  The thermostat included with this kit was different from the original, so I had to cut a wire and install a spade connector, but that was easy.  The kit did not include the screws needed to attach the thermostat to the heating element, so I had to dig some out of the shop.  The original setup had no screws holding the thermostat on as the terminal held it on, but this kit has a wire, which will not hold it on.  The same screws that hold the back panel and the heating element on will work, so you can pick some up before this arrives.\n\nOnce the wires were back in place, I buttoned everthing back up, installed a new metal duct(plastic is a fire hazard) and put the dryer back in place.  I fired it up for 30 seconds and popped it open, instant heat!!!\n\nThe new heating element had an odor, so I ran it for 10 minutes to \"break it in\" but now it is working like new!\n\nThis was an easy repair that anyone who is a bit handy could do.  The most involved part was cutting the wire and installing the included crimped connector.  If you can do that, you are good to go.  The drier is also pretty light, so it is easy to flip forward.  Always make sure to unplug before opening up electrical appliances, of course...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3741, "id": 121110, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 513, "len_tokens": 632, "text": "ultimately the machine is what it is. After the investment I will make it work, but i do not like these HE machines.  for whatever it is worth the water savings are not worth it.  (I actually have not noticed any on my water bill anyway.)  the clothes are not soaked or saturated via the wash. They are \"drenched\" with the detergent and wash water, which in essence puts all the cleaning on the detergent.  I am used to the washing machine doing the agitation which is forcing water to flush through the clothes/cloth time and time again within a 30-minute cycle or so.  This got out the dirt and more importantly the odors.  I am not convinced this machine does that. i have kids and have noticed those underwear stains remain if not pretreated.  the premise of these HE machines is flawed.  saturating the clothes and agitating them in what is a little more than a puddle is not getting them clean.  it needs to at least submerge the clothes in water that is the height of the clothes.  if you get a chance to see these machines work before you buy it, you will see this and wonder how it works.  In my opinion it does not work well.  the same issue exist during the rinse cycle.  we have had this machine for 7-months now and are still trying to figure this machine out.  my towels tend to get sour sooner than normal.  our kitchen towels are the same. (we've started pre-soaking them separately before washing in a big bucket grandma style.) for our regular clothes i have started washing \"half\" loads.  the sensor is supposed to put in enough water for the size of the load.  I also click Deep cleanse, extra rinse and pre-wash with every load to hopefully increase the water level. the water level tends to be the same (too low) in my book.  However, the wash time is increased.  There are 2 setting that put in a lot of water, bulky and allergen.  these soak the clothes, but the agitation is the equivalent of soaking clothes in a full tub and the agitation is simply on the bottom of the tub.  the top clothes get nothing.  If i had the chance to do it over again i would get a conventional washing machine.  though it seems like those things are becoming extinct it might be worth it.  one other thing I did not know is the wash and rinse cycle on this thing is as long as 84 minutes in some cases.  no cycle is 30-minutes. even the basic normal cycle is 50+ minutes.  so you might save some water, but the wash time is twice as long.  I am online now trying to find tips to manipulate this thing better.  I have thought about starting the normal cycle and adding extra water on my own.  as stated before, we pre-soak now.\n\nThe one good thing i can say is the companion dryer is outstanding.  it can knockout a load of towels in 30-45 minutes tops.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3742, "id": 122033, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 486, "len_tokens": 608, "text": "Our first d/w was a Maytag that cleaned very well.  Unfortunately, in 2 years time we had to replace the latch handle twice, it was recalled because of a potential fire, and ultimately, the tub warped and we replaced it with this Kitchenaid.\n\nHaving done extensive research, there is no one d/w that everyone loves.  That being said, Kitchenaid comes up as one of the brands that most people prefer.  Why not go with a middle level Kitchenaid?  Again, all the research I turned up said that it was necessary to go with the higher end in order to get better quality.  The higher end uses a different drying and washing process than the mid-range.\n\nAnother consideration was that only the top two models have the third tray for utensils.  Both my husband and the appliance salesmen minimized the importance of this feature.  Having now had the d/w for a month, it's one of my favorite features.  Because of food allergies and because we homeschool, we run our d/w four times a day.  I need every bit of space available for larger items.  By using the upper utensil draw, I can place more items in the bottom drawer.\n\nAs I mentioned, I cook a great deal and use a 12 quart stock pot about once a week.  I was concerned about being able to fit it in this d/w.  Our previous Maytag was a tall tub and had a very large clearance from the bottom rack to the sprayer.  No problem with the Kitchenaid.\n\nThere are several different options of cleaning cycles, and I do find myself using them. There's even an option for a shorter wash cycle.  It's just as efficient, just not as energy-conscious.  I haven't used it yet, but am thrilled to know it's available.\n\nAs everyone mentions, it's quiet as a whisper.  I can talk on the phone right next to it with no problem.\n\nWhen researching, I did turn up some concern over the side venting of the door.  Have to say that our install left the vent just outside the cabinetry.  No problems whatsoever.\n\nIf you do a great deal of cooking, this is the dishwasher for you!\n\nUpdate: I wanted to post an update that as time has gone by my love for this dishwasher only continues.  I run it roughly four times a day and have now used the 1 hour wash cycle.  It's been an invaluable time saver.  I've even washed our super large stock pot on the 1 hour cycle and it comes out clean.\n\nMy husband had expressed concern over the lack of a food grinder and my habit of not scraping the dishes immaculately before loading them.  However, we've had no problems.  I rarely remove the filter to clean it, and when I do I'm just rinsing it.  It really isn't even necesssary.  Almost a year later, and I still couldn't recommend it more.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3743, "id": 122201, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 494, "len_tokens": 608, "text": "What's Good:\n*Very nice looking.\n*Extremely quiet.\n* spacious interior (14 place settings) with good generic rack layout.\n\nWhat's Bad:\n*So large it may not fit as a replacement for a standard dishwasher We had to unexpectedly modify our cabinetry. DO measure your space carefully.\n*Pricey, but with basic features. You're paying for the label.\n*No rack reconfiguration options (interior is so large you may not miss them). Upper rack does have 2 height positions, but implementing the change is such a hassle few will use it. Racks do not slide smoothly or easily. Lower rack must be lifted up over the bottom door edge to extract it without bouncing your dishware out of place.\n*Flatware basket is spacious but fits only one location. You must completely open the heavy door and slide the lower rack all the way out to reach its rear sections.\n*Door-edge control panel is a stunning example of bad design. Completely hidden under counter-top when the door is closed (keep a flashlight handy).\n*Couldn't clean its way out of a paper bag! We tried all the wash cycles and several detergent and rinse products, including the ones recommended by the manufacturer. We even added vinegar. Nothing works! Glassware comes out with rings and cloudy film (we must assume this film also covers the rest of the dishware). Even a tried-and-true product we have used successfully for years in our hard water environment has no effect. Most of the particulates you forget to brush or scrape off beforehand will be baked onto the flatware and dishes (and we don't use the \"heat dry\" option). Let the peanut butter coating firm up on that table knife for a day? This machine won't touch it. It will come out just like it went in. Filling the cavernous interior with dishware simply reduces the cleaning effectiveness. The regular wash cycle runs for 2 hours, but has virtually no cleaning power. You will try the other cycle options, all of which use twice the water and energy, and find they don't clean any better. So much for the \"green\" concept. If you're primary concern is saving the planet, you will probably be satisfied. If you are interested in clean dishes, look elsewhere.\n\nTwo Year Update:\nWe've been using (and cussing at) this thing for a couple years now. Sadly, Our opinions haven't changed. We have discovered that the best (we use that term lightly) setting for getting any cleaning power out of this thing at all is the One Hour wash cycle. We also get the best results from Powerball cleaning tablets and LemiShine rinse products, especially the little \"pillows,\" which we place inside the detergent compartment. A new irritation discovered with use, is that the flatware constantly jabs into the right side rubber door gasket when we run the lower rack in and out. Ours is now pierced with many holes. We are surprised it is still attached.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3744, "id": 123903, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 523, "len_tokens": 664, "text": "I bought a Maytag Maxima MHF6000XG front-load washer. Everywhere I looked, it was $1199, sometimes on sale for $100 less. I found Gochnauer's on Amazon in a google search, and they listed it for $598, brand new. Since they were within 100 miles of my home, there was a $129 delivery fee. I rented a van and drove straight out to them, completely skeptical. I arrived, everyone was friendly and helpful, and they loaded a brand new washer into my van with a forklift (no extra charge). They then refunded the $129 delivery fee since I picked it up. How did they do this? I have no idea, but holy cow was it a great deal......brand new and half price. Thanks guys!\n\nAs to the washer itself, this is my first HE washer, first front-load, and first experience with digital controls, 'smart' washer technology, etc. However, our washer was damaged in a basement flood, and it took me almost three weeks to find this one, so by the time I had it installed, I immediately ran over 20 loads of wash throught it.\n\nOverall I am very happy with it so far. Clothes get clean, are very dry right out of the washer, are not all wrinkled, and smell fresh. There is very little water used, and while it takes much longer than a standard top-load washer, the total time, due to reduced drying time, is not dramatically different. With no agitator, it's more gentle on clothing as well. It's pretty quiet, even when spinning at eleventy billion RPM. The stay-fresh thing is nice for when you can not get back to the washer to move clothes to the dryer when it's done.\n\nThe downsides I've noticed are that the opening in the rubber gasket that seals the door must be wiped out as it collects water and various objects that come out of pockets, and if you add liquid detergent/bleach/etc into the trays and then wait a while to start, the liquids will leak out onto the non-running dry laundry load. There is no option to spin-only, just a rinse/spin option which takes longer. And no light in the tub, only the next higher up model, the 7000, has a light (strangely though the matching 6000XG dryer has a light). Finally, the balance sensor can take a while to figure out when it's OK to spin at high speeds, adjusting how the laundry sits in the tub, which can add to total wash time.\n\nI'd give it 4.5 stars overall, mostly because clothes are coming out cleaner and better smelling than my previous SpeedQueen washing machine, and the energy/water usage is much much lower. I remember even after two spin cycles in the SpeedQueen, with towels and jeans it would often take 75+ minutes to dry on high. The matching Maytag MED6000XG dryer has yet to take more than 35 minutes on low or medium heat no matter what I have attempted to dry, and that's because the laundry coming out of the washer is nearly dry to begin with due to the high-speed spin and lower water usage.\n\nBruce", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3745, "id": 125402, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 560, "len_tokens": 682, "text": "Here's the thing. I have a bob that is above my shoulders length. I have semi-curly hair that I like to straighten.\nCons:\n1. It pulls my hair out\n2. Gets a little too hot\n3. Button gets stuck going in one direction (right button) and doesn't stop\n4. The smaller brush gets tangled and also pulls my hair out in even larger chunks (I don't use this one)\n5. The brush does not spin when you put it on the cool shot setting (what's the point of having cool shot?)\n6. Useless on the slow setting and can only use on high setting\n7. Need an additional hair dryer to get it 80% dry before using it\n8. The cord is extremely short\n9. If it's not spinning, you cant use it as a regular round brush dryer because the bristles are so soft they don't go through my hair unless spinning\n10. I had to put ducktape on the plastic ends of the barrel because my hair would get stuck in the crevices and get yanked out\nPros:\n1. When it works right, it actually adds quite a bit of volume\n2. So much easier than using a separate round brush and hair dryer combo\n3. Since I have shorter hair, I do not have to use any clips to clip it out of the way\n4. My hair is done in less than 15 minutes\n5. No pain from my carpal tunnel in my hand when I style my hair\n6. Handle width is perfect\n7. Comes with cover so bristles don't get smashed down when sitting on counter (you will need to put it on after every use)\n\nThis product is far from perfect, but it works for my purposes. I don't expect it to be durable enough to quite last a year, especially with the situation with the button getting stuck in one direction. I would expect more from a product that's at this high of a price point. Since this one has many flaws, I may try another spinning round brush dryer when this one stops working. I haven't seen many that didn't cost more than this one. This one seems like it might be the in between model.\n\nUPDATE 1/17/2017\nDon't buy this product. It won't last you even a year before malfunctioning. Tried to return through Conair since my Amazon return date had expired. They'll let you return it, but only if you pay the additional shipping costs. I waited on hold for 45 minutes to reach a customer rep to be told this. I'll save you all the trouble. Don't buy this product because it's junk. If you bought the product already, make sure you return it in time through Amazon because Conair makes junk products. I've also filed a complaint about Conair via the better business bureau, which I found out Conair has an F rating on. I've never seen an F rating on the BBB for any company. Consider this a warning about all Conair products. I know I will never buy any of their products ever again. I already have vowed to never buy their crappy hair dryers that always break, but I'm extending this to all of their products after reading complaints on the BBB and due to my recent experience trying to return this spin brush.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3746, "id": 126093, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 488, "len_tokens": 625, "text": "Oh. My. Gosh. Wow. Background first:  I have medium (near shoulder length) super fine AND super thin hair,  with a giant C-shaped brain surgery scar over the entire left side of my head, where the hair doesn't even grow. I have layers, short on top and in the back. My main issues are thinness and scalp showing on the left side and top back of my head. Most of what I do is useless to fix that. And the front, my bangs area,  is also thin and shows scalp. The rest of my hair is good enough, but looks kind of out sync, I guess you could say: Full and frizzy on the bottom area,  thin and see-through on the scalp area. I've tried most everything that I can afford.  Chemicals, chemical-free, different cuts, styles, colors, my own natural color, sprays, gels, mousses again naturals, earthy types,  and chemical ones. Shampoos, conditioners, even just rinsing. Daily washing to every few days.  Blow drying, air drying, boar bristles...  You get the idea. Before my surgery, I used to use a round blow dryer that was stationery. It worked OK,  but would die or get super hot all the time after not too much use and I got tired of buying them. Decided to look into those again, and saw this one. Read the reviews and decided to try it.  Took me all of 3 tries (3 sections of hair on my first use, that is) to get the hang of it. It's so simple to use, and I have NEVER  seen my hair so smooth, shiny and silky! Truly amazed that a hair dryer can make it not frizzy.  Seems backward to me. All of my other dryers in my entire life have frizzed on me-- even ones that say they won't. The thinnest parts of my hair, though the hair does not poof up or anything, gets full scalp coverage somehow. And it lasts. My hair does fall flat in humidity, or if it gets damp from sweat, but the coverage of my scalp is still there, by some miracle. And I love that I can make it straight, or curly.  I almost want to buy 5 more just in case something happens to the company and  I can't buy any more. Part of this review is selfish for that reason... I want the company to succeed so I can buy more if I ever need to. I do wonder how long it will last because it has moving parts and a heater. But,  It seems really well made.  I'm even using the bristle cover every time I use it. Seems like the company really cares about the product. I love it, and have recommended it to my two friends with very fine hair and shoulder issues who can't hold a dryer AND a brush (yet another reason to buy this product). Love this product. Love it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3747, "id": 127246, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 572, "len_tokens": 697, "text": "This hood was the best price of any high-CFM hood I've seen. Nothing else could even come close to this in amount airflow with a reasonable price, and also included the blower motor. First reason to purchase this unit.\n\nWhen it arrived, it was packaged securely. The box had a couple of dings. The hood had none. When unpacked, this unit looked really nice. The power-check on the unit went well. The uninstalled hood plugged-in and fan set to high showed that the unit wasn't the absolute quietest. Nor was it that loud. I was able to have a normal volume conversation with the fan on high. I've read reviews that said it was way too loud. I disagree, and my ears are sensitive to loud sounds. What I did need to do though was quiet the beeping sound that every button push makes. That IS too loud and really bothers me. One of the reasons that unit may be too loud, as the instructions say, is that the unit may need to have screws checked for tightness. OK, easily done. This is the second reason to purchase this unit.\n\nThe instructions are not a reason to purchase this unit. They really suck! First, they are obviously translated. This is super funny until you need them to install from. Second, you have a couple of parts that the instructions tell you nothing about. Rubber gaskets for noise suppression, plastic wiring caps for wires that are already installed and capped, screws for ??? The instructions are a detractor of this purchase. My install technique was a combination of Youtube and Home Depot's Pro Desk. If you're a \"do-it-youselfer\", the instructions don't really matter. Installation is pretty simple.\n\nHood got installed. Along the way I took the baffles out in order to hang the housing. WEAR GLOVES for this! The inner metal lining that houses the baffles is razor sharp and cut my arms and hands in multiple places. You wouldn't normally interact with this metal lining unless you were going to install the unit. The install was very easy once I knew where everything went. One thing to mention is that if you are looking for a 7\" exhaust, you'll need an enlarger piece. I just kept it 6\" for the sake of convenience.\n\nThe first actual use of the hood was nice. It's powerful enough to be used as a room exhaust fan. I opened my kitchen and living room windows and felt it pulling a breeze through the house. It's advertized as 870 CFMs or close. I'm not sure if this is true. I am sure that it pulls a breeze through my 2000 sq. ft. home. It also hasn't needed to be run higher than low when using the 20,000 btu power burner on the range. The kitchen stays nice and cool.\n\nI've already stated that the buttons beep. This is irritating. The rest of the interface panel is touch and nicely put together. The programming of time and how to program the fan-off time is poorly explained in the manual. But, it is nice to set the fan to auto-off after baking is done to keep the kitchen cool.\n\nOverall, this is a nice unit that is probably worth more than it sells for. If I was going to purchase another hood, I'd buy this one all over again: great price, nice product when compared to the high-end makers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3748, "id": 128835, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 545, "len_tokens": 696, "text": "DO NOT BUY THIS DISHWASHER. IT LEAKS. Yes, I'm shouting. It leaks at least a cup to three cups of water EVERY single time you run it. I've used plumber's tape, Flextape (waterproofing tape) and every plumbing fix I can - short of expoxying the hoses to the connection. Nothing works. I finally built a floor pan out of coroplast and Flextape to contain and drain the water.\n\nCONS:\n\nThe hose that comes with it is SHORT. Unless you can literally place this unit next to your sink and hook it up, forget it. I had to search six hardware and plumbing stores before I found one that carried compatible hosing. Then I bought six feet of hosing and splices (which DO NOT LEAK) so I could attach it to the existing hosing to reach my sink from under a counter where I placed the unit so I didn't have to move it back and forth three times a day. Ideally, you find a place near the sink where you can leave it and simply attach the hose.\n\nYou'll need to buy an extra fitting to adapt to your sink - figure on an additional $5.99 to $8.99 depending on what kind of sink you have. Get the \"quick attach adapter\" so you are spending hours screwing the fitting on and off.\n\nWhile it will clean your dishes, it will only EFFECTIVELY clean 5-6 plates, a couple of glasses, and a handful of silverware at a time. I run it once with just hot water, and a second time with detergent. I bought this for my office. I don't have a kitchen, but do have a small bathroom and sink. I bought this to use for the dishes I use when microwaving etc. - no heavy duty dirty dishes, just something to keep up with lunch dishes, coffee mugs, plates I use for doughnuts, bagels, employee snacks etc. We're not talking \"baked on grime,\" but cereal bowls, crumbs, soup bowls - stuff we basically \"heat and eat.\" So, for light fare - it seems to do okay as long as you don't let stuff sit for days. It does heat its own water, but it seems to run 200% better if you only run hot water from your sink - which we do.\n\nI can't complain and bitch enough about the leaking. Tighten the fittings too much, and you'll break the fittings, and won't be able to find replacement fittings anywhere else as NO PLUMBING supply store in my city, or online, including Amazon, carries them. So, learn to live with the leaks...and I don't mean a few dribbles. This is like 1/2 to 2/3 a CUP of water with each cycle.\n\nI wouldn't be happy if it didn't leak, but I would be okay with the performance otherwise. It takes at least two cycles (have tried every detergent on the market) to get really dirty, or hardened food residue off your dishware. It takes one cycle if you're doing mostly glasses and silverware.\n\nIt's better than doing dishes by hand, although lately, I've just been washing mugs and spoons by hand because it takes less time than mopping the floor every time I run it.\n\nWOULD NEVER EVER RECOMMEND THIS POS TO ANYONE.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3749, "id": 129015, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 502, "len_tokens": 617, "text": "4 to 5 stars. The gas connection is sturdy if connecting a straight line connection. But when using an elbow, there's too much torque at the bend, which can ratchet around the fitting, loosening the connection. I think repeated expansion/contraction cycling from heating/cooling at this junction will loosen the connection over time. Mine leaked from the start, (\"professionally\" installed by gas company because I needed the permit and record to comply with state law and for insurance; I didn't even bother calling them back, instead doing the work the right way myself). When moving the flexible gas line slightly a few times while securing it underneath, this movement was enough to loosen the elbow, even after tightening the connection tightly. I built a bracket to hold the entire elbow and gas line in one place, with everything tightened up. No leaks and very secure underneath. Up top at the countertop,  the closed foam strips used under the cooktop edges, at countertop, are good for padding. Over time, liquids could soak into the foam stripping, leaving bacteria. So, after securing the cooktop in place, I added a small bead of silicone seal all around the cooktop, to keep liquids from seeping under it and into the closed foam seal. Nice cooktop, heats food with very little waste heat. For lighting burners, the approx. 4 seconds holding down control knob while safety components heat up is easy once I got used to it. Most gas ignition systems have this wait nowadays, for flame out safety protection. Both burners needed adjustment to lower the flame levels at lowest setting. An adjustment screw for this is inside the stem of each control pod. After pulling the knob up and off, the small access hole is right at the top of the stem. You will need a long thin flat head screwdriver to insert down the shaft to the screw. you can  see the small screw head down there if you shine a small flashlight light point and use a magnifying glass to look. Remember position of screw, then insert screwdriver  oriented same direction and connect with screw. You will feel the fit when screwdriver is seated. Turning clockwise reduces flame size, counterclockwise increases it. Don't push down hard as you turn screw, as this will reduce flame size temporarily until you release pressure. For a screwdriver, I bought a Master Mechanic 3/32 screwdriver at True Value Hardware, and ground down the screwdriver shank until it fit easily into the control stem hole. Shank should be 2 inches long to reach bottom. EXCELLENT customer service. I emailed asking if the cooktop can be lit with a match or lighter, if power outage (Yes, you can light it with a match when power is out).  Emailed on a Friday late. Next day, Saturday, a rep. called me at home and left a detailed explanation message, gave his direct line phone number to call with any further questions. I'm very happy with this cooktop and the company.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3750, "id": 133265, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 505, "len_tokens": 614, "text": "UPDATE 10/18/2016: Okay folks, it has been confirmed that Samsung now redesigned their haf-cin / DA29-00020b filters. In the photos the one you see with Double rubber ring on the neck is the newest version.\n\nPros:\n-Whoever had a leaking issue previously probably will no more have any leakage (even tho it wasn't the filters fault, it's your loose housing or wrong placement of filter).\n\nCons:\n-now people who had no issues before may have issues now, not the leakage but your water flow will be extremely decreased\n-if you are switching from the older version filter with single rubber ring to the double rubber ring new design, you will have to shut off the water valve, otherwise little bit of air will shut your new filter and it will no more work. once air pressure goes into the filter, paper changes it forms kind of gets damaged i guess.\n-you will be so pissed due to double ring and change of design will decrease your water flow, so that means to take out the first 5 6 gallon of water will take hours!!!!\n\nConclusion, SAMSUNG NEEDS A NEW FILTER COMPANY OR REPLACE OUR EXISTING REFRIGERATORS WITH NEW ONE FOR FREE BECAUSE YOU LIKE MESSING UP EVERY YEAR WITH YOUR FILTER DESIGN!!!!\n\nUPDATE 10/16/2016 ( I have been purchasing this same filter from Amazon, sold and shipped by) here is the latest one i just received 20 days ago and i was going to replace today, and just surprised that something was different!!!! Now there is a double rubber o-ring on the outer head of the filter??? Does Samsung making changes or what is going on??? I spent 2 hours to get a water flowing thru this filter, no luck. Not older filter doesn't work as well. I am afraid that this latest filter damaged my water filter housing head, I am returning for the replacement and will see if the replacement comes different or not.\n\nLatest filter september 2016 looks the one with double rubber ring on the head part.\nit looks little taller than what i have been using originally all the time (i always buy from amazon, shipped and sold)\nalso the filter's top head neck bottom (where its the body starts) looks different as well. Samsung needs to clarify if there are any changes or not on the filter!!!\n\nBought it at October 31st, it did fit, worked and served perfect. No leaks or other issues. Water runs fast and filters very well. I did some water tests between water coming thru this filter and coming straight from the tap. Filters and also softens the water little bit as well. Ensure the model type of filter in your refrigerator matches with this Da29-00020b as well so you will not have leaks or any other problems. 6 months of use 2 people, having visitors oftenly and we are really water drinkers. Just the filter light turned little bit purple now. So 6 months of life for a filter is actually pretty good.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3751, "id": 134031, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 549, "len_tokens": 690, "text": "I purchased 4 single/individual Samsung Replacement Cartridges (Model # DA29-00020B) from Filter King for our Samsung French Door refrigerator recently.  The single filters were strangely cheaper than buying a multipack of 3 - that should have been a red flag for what's to come!  I have purchased from other companies thru Amazon.com usually in a 3pack, and have not had problems.  All 4 new filters purchased from Filter King thru Amazon.com did NOT work - loud vibrations, and product did not align at the right angle!!\n  I opened the box for the first filter and noticed that there were no instructions or monthly date code stickers contained within - odd, but the cartridge filter was shrinkwrapped new.  I followed the instructions for installation of the filter as I had done in the past at least a half dozen times without issue on our Samsung refrigerator.  Immediately noticed that the arrow on the filter did not perfectly align at 12:00, as they did on the filter just de-installed  alignment was off by perhaps 1/8th of inch, I'd say it was stuck at 11:57 - I didn't want to overtorque it and break something inside the refrigerator.  Turned the water on to the fridge and began the process to flush water through the system as instructed.  No water came out and very audible vibrations could be heard.\n  Turned the water to the fridge off again and de-installed this filter and tried a second new one  this one was also shrinkwrapped, and unlike the first did contain the instructions & stickers.  However, the same misalignment was seen in the 2nd cartridge filter, stuck at 11:57 (not fully vertically aligned) and the same result was obtained  - No Water through the system and Audible Rattling.  Decided to reinstall the old filter that we were trying to replace and found it to lock in place just fine (arrows correctly aligned at 12:00) and saw that water properly flowed through the system.\n  De-installed this filter and closely compared it the two new ones  paying close attention to the open end  the end which engages the water nozzle inside the fridge.  The old (working) filter was shown to have the center circular piece on the open end to be flush with the rest of the nozzle end, meaning they were the same length.  This was in contrast to the other two new (non-working) filters in which the center circular piece was not flush  rather it was depressed in by ~1/16th of an inch.  It looks like I got a whole batch which were manufactured defectively and missed Quality Control standards.  Decided to open the last 2 new filters and found them to be in the same state as the other 2 non-working filters (would not lock in place in the fridge and the center circular piece was not flush with the rest of the nozzle end).\n  I believe all 4 of the new filters are defective  they all seem to have the same serial code 'A2442'  suggesting that they could have come from the same bad manufacturing lot.  If the price is too good to be true, it's likely a rip off!!  These 4 filter rejects are all going back to amazon.com and I am buying elsewhere from a brick and mortar, big name place.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3752, "id": 139303, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 598, "len_tokens": 690, "text": "My washing machine drum has 3 baffles. One was broke in the back. It allowed it to detach from the tub. That left a sharp hole that items would get caught on and rip holes in them. A smaller item even went through the opening and became wedged in so tightly that it jammed and caused the drum to stop spinning. The other two baffles were still in place but they were becoming loose and would soon  need replacing.\nPart of the reason I chose their company was because they were associated with Amazon.\nOrdering 1 baffle was almost as expensive as ordering the kit of 3. I knew I would soon need them anyway and ordered the kit of three.\nThey arrived in a timely manner. One matched my machine. The other two looked the same on top but the screw holes and clips on the back where it attaches to the drum were completely different. They were installable because they in no way matched the screw holes and clip slots in my machine.\nI took pictures and sent them to APPLIANCE PARTS STOP with an e-mail describing the problem. I offered to return the 2 baffles that did not match in exchange for 2 that would.\nThey wanted me to return all 3 for inspection and possible replacement. The one that matched my washing machine had already been installed and was working perfectly.\nIf I had removed it and returned it with the others I would have again had a disabled machine while I waited for return shipping. inspection and possible return of the correct parts. Another week or 10 days of a broken washer was unacceptable to me. They wanted to inspect the whole \"kit\". There was no \"kit\".\nIt was 3 separate baffles in a plain brown cardboard box. They were not in plastic wrapping, shrink wrapped or joined together in any way. It appeared that they had been picked out of a bin and put in a cardboard box and shipped.\nI ordered the \"kit\" of 3 to save money and time. Might as well replace them all at once rather than paying more to replace 1 at a time as they detached from the drum.\nI now have 2 baffles I cannot use and in the future as the 2 original baffles need to be replaced I will have the expense of purchasing them and paying once more for shipping.\nIt would have been far easier to replace all 3 at once, as opposed to removing panels and opening the machine again to replace the old ones that remain.\nIt was not my error but I will be paying the price. There was no \"kit\" just 3 loose plastic pieces in a box.\nRemove the one that was correct and return with the 2 that were not? Wait for them to receive all 3, inspect and maybe decide to ship 3 that matched? Once again have a disabled washing machine until the correct parts arrive?\nI sent them pictures of all three for them to compare. I offered to return the 2 that were wrong in exchange for the right ones.\nIs another customer going to one day get the 2 baffles I should have received and not have them work in their machine?\nThe problem and inconvenience still exist for me. I have 2 parts I cannot use and need to order (from another company) the baffles I already paid for. I still have the incorrect parts. They are in perfect condition. Maybe I will hang them on the Christmas tree.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3753, "id": 144375, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 494, "len_tokens": 629, "text": "Fit perfectly. There are clutches out now that have 6 pads instead of just the three.  I assume they would last longer.\n\nIf your washer is not spinning always check the lid switch first.  Let the machine reach the spin cycle by starting at the rinse cycle (don't start in spin).  If nothing happens when it gets to spin, try again, this time with the lid up and a pencil or other non-conductive object holding the switch down.  If it doesn't spin this time, release the lid switch then activate it again.  If you hear a clunk, the washer is trying to go to spin mode - and the switch is probably OK.  If it spins properly this time, the switch is OK and the timer is probably bad.  If it doesn't spin, give the tank a little circular push in the clockwise direction.  If it won't move, it's probably the timer.  If it starts to spin slowly, or slowly then stop, or slowly and up to speed, then it's probably the clutch or the coupler.  (Also, if it spins on light loads but doesn't spin on heavy loads, it's probably clutch or coupler.)\n\nHere is one way to check the clutch:  When it gets to the spin cycle and you can hear the motor running, give the tank a little clockwise push.  If it seems to go a while - or even gets going fast - then CAREFULLY, and with a glove on, try to stop the tank by putting your hand lightly on the top part of the tank.  Don't try to grab it and stop it - you could break, sprain, dislocate a wrist.  If you can slow it down pretty easily or stop it altogether, it's probably the clutch ($15) or the coupler ($5).  Look under the washer.  If there's black rubber residue, it's the coupler.  If there's no residue, or worse, some grease, then it's the clutch.  BUT - the grease comes from the transmission.  Read on.  If you can't turn the tank at all - and you're sure it's in the spin cycle - it's probably the timer ($100) not putting it in spin mode.  You can test this by turning the machine off then back on when in spin mode.  If it spins up to speed, then it's not the clutch or coupler.  .\n\nIf the clutch pads are NOT worn out, but the clutch is greasy, you might clean the clutch ($0)  - remove all oil residue on the clutch and the parts that hold it in - and reinstall it.  You'll have to decide whether you want to replace the transmission.  That's only $150 and it's a relatively simple job for a good DIYer.  But if you don't replace the transmission you may or may not get grease back within a year or two.  (I don't see where there is a top seal for this transmission.  That would be the least expensive option.)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3754, "id": 144763, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 567, "len_tokens": 680, "text": "Well, I tried to make sure the washing machine I purchased would do one thing well: not break and create a major hassle.  I read up on all types of machines looking for durability above all else.  The Speed Queen seemed to offer this from what other people had written.\n\nHowever, the machine was broken from day one.  It has yet to work and we've had it for about a month.  We have had three service calls and it still does not work.  We have to go to the laundromat as a result--and when we are there we are, you guessed it, using Speed Queen machines and the irony doesn't help, either.  We have wasted three half days waiting on the repairman.  The repairman is stuck working with an ineffective and problematic repair system that cannot deliver the correct part.  He is actually a pretty nice guy who seems to know what he is doing.  I don't want him to look like the bad guy in all this.\n\nI prefer to buy American whenever it makes sense.  But, I'm afraid in this case with this manufacturer, it doesn't make sense.  Look elsewhere.\n\nOK, it's been about half a year since the machine showed up.  After another service call it worked.  The selection dial which sets the type of wash was bad so that was why it did not work when it first showed up.  After that was replaced it did indeed work.  For the first couple months and occasionally now it let's us know it is working by filling the room with that unique smell that we all know as \"burning electrical component smell\".  You all may know it by a different name but we've all smelled it at some time.  We were so desperate to have this thing work that we solved the problem by: keeping a fire extinguisher (rated for electrical fire use) nearby; leaving the door open to the outside and running the vent fan while using it and for some time after it had stopped to vent the room; feeling confident that the design and manufacturing team had done their level best to prevent a fire from killing us.  How does it do cleaning the clothes?  Pretty well, actually.  Of course, the first few big jobs it had consisted of removing the smell of burning electrical components from all the laundry that had been in the room when it was first used.  Somehow, that has the sound of a government make work project--one guy digs the ditch, the other guy fills it in, two guys supervise, and several administrators complete detailed project assessment forms.  So, this has been an OK machine as far as washing goes but has been exemplary in stimulating the economy and we all know how important that is in today's economy.  How?  Well, some guys designed it, some people built it, the repairman (he really was a good guy, no kidding) got to make several service calls, the help center at Speed Queen kept busy, and my wife and I got to take a total of two whole days off work thus ensuring that our undone work was distributed to others who might have been unemployed if this unique opportunity had not occurred.  Now that's stimulus.  So, as a washing machine, still one star, but as a backdoor economic stimulus, five plus stars with platinum oak leaf cluster surround.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3755, "id": 144766, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 533, "len_tokens": 619, "text": "Before I review this machine, I want to emphasize that you MUST wipe out the inside of the stainless steel tub when you first get your machine. The tub is coated with a greasy, dusty film that must be wiped off with a spray cleanser/ degreaser and a cloth or paper towel. It took me about 10 minutes before I got the inside of my machine clean. This coating is quite substantial and will not wash off with normal running of the machine. This is mentioned in both the installation manual and the user's manual. (Similarly, the installers ran the matching dryer for 30 minutes to burn off a similar factory coating.) I wonder if some of the writers of the poor reviews had problems because the users did not wipe off this coating.\n\nWe just bought the AWN542 along with its matching dryer at our local independent appliance store. We replaced a set of 20 year old Maytags that had served us well but once the dryer started screeching, we decided to replace them instead of repairing them. I wanted to avoid the fancy front loading machines because of all the complaints I have heard over the years. We looked at simple looking Maytags, Amanas, Whirlpools, etc. but they all looked cheaply made and do have some computerized components that can fail. The higher end machines seemed overly complicated and would have cost at least twice as much as the Speed Queens.\n\nThe salesman at the independent appliance store recommended the Speed Queens. At first, I was skeptical. The Speed Queens looked like the lower end machines to me at first. They are very Plain Jane but my husband was immediately impressed by how much better built they were than the somewhat lower priced Maytags, etc. So we went home to do some research on Speed Queen. We were happy to find so many positive reviews and that they were made in Wisconsin with absolutely no computer boards. As far as I know, there is nothing comparable available for consumers in the United States. We returned to the store an hour later and bought the AWN542 and matching dryer on the spot. We felt the Speed Queen washer and dryer set were moderately priced - somewhat higher than the low end Whirlpool clones but much less than high end front loaders.\n\nI could repeat all the other positive comments. Nice, simple straightforward washing machine that gets clothes clean. There are plenty of options to choose water level, cycle, extra rinse. Nothing fancy or complicated. I have already washed delicates, towels, heavy canvas pants, coats, a large comforter. Everything came out beautifully. I think the extra large water level is fine. I don't feel the need to overload the machine.\n\nThe only thing I might complain about is that the knobs look sort of dumpy at first. They could use a good industrial designer to make them a little more attractive. But they are growing on me. The knobs are actually very sturdy and functional. The black lettering on the plain white is very clear and easy to read so the complaint about the look of the knobs is very superficial and silly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3756, "id": 144767, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 488, "len_tokens": 606, "text": "The washing machine you wished you had purchased.  When our 15 year old Kenmore needed $500+ of repairs, we chose to replace.  My due diligence sources were appliance repairmen, professional home cleaners, and families that wash clothes constantly.  Here's today's market: those gorgeous, and pricey, front loaders you see in Home Depot, Lowe's, and the fancy showrooms have  a couple of problems they don't want to talk about. The first one is a deal killer: they don't get your clothes clean. 15 gallons of water in a cycle is insufficient, and probably the reason LG, Samsung, and all the rest want to add something to make your clothes smell nice; it masks the fact that your clothes are not clean.  This Speed Queen machine has a 30 gallon maximum capacity. The second issue with the front loaders is that a lot of them leak.  Silly me: I thought we were washing clothes, not the laundry room floor. Don't take my word for it: read the reviews. In the meantime, go to a Laundromat if you want to see a front loader that really works: it'll likely be a Speed Queen, and the front door latch is built like one on a miniature submarine. Before the conservationists, which I consider myself to be one of,  jump on me, a 411: our water problem in this country is primarily caused by politics, specifically by not pricing water at its real cost as a resource, like gasoline, that must be obtained, refined, and delivered.  California is Ex. 1, and I use it only because it's so big and the problem is now so big even the professional deniers know the state is in a world of hurt.  Water law allows a first taker from a river to take as much as they want at a subsidized price without regard to the efficiency of use, and too bad for the downstream users.  So $200 worth of water can be used to raise $100 worth of crops.  This is a great plan.  LA & Phoenix are arid climates, really deserts, but politics made them green. Fine; short their real estate markets.  And then are the cities that still do not yet have water meters on their customer's homes. When these problems become part of conservation policy analysis, we can continue this conversation.  Until then get off the backs of people washing clothes in old style washing machines because they were raised to have clean clothes instead of having status fashion statement appliances.  And people that like to buy Speed Queens because they are manufactured in the United States by its citizens.  And while you're looking around, go to a Laundromat if you want to see a front loader that really works: it'll likely be a Speed Queen.  This machine runs like a Lexus, everything about it screams \"I was designed and built to do what I do, and nothing else\".  And it does.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3757, "id": 144776, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 536, "len_tokens": 617, "text": "Exactly what I wanted. After 25 years, my GE washer was making a lot of racket at the end of the final spin, I was told it was a bearing problem, and not worth fixing. It was still washing clothes well, like a wounded soldier determined to drag fallen comrades back from the front line - no quit to it, and loyal. (It's been making that noise for two years, just getting worse. I'm going to give it to my son, just to see how long it will go). After hitting the local appliance store, asking very pointed questions, and having the manager tell me there was no product in his store that I was going to like - they were all high efficiency - (I briefly considered the last GE model with top load and vertical agitator) - I hit the web hard. The negative reviews on ALL other washers are really funny to read. My wife and I laughed, and I may go back and read some more of them if I get down. Especially the front loaders. Anyway, I found the Speed Queen. I read the reviews, and gambled and spent almost double the amount they were asking for the old style GE and purchased the AWN542 Speed Queen. I hooked it up myself in about an hour from box to washing. Adjusting and leveling the legs and getting it even with levels was the most difficult task associated with the machine's installation, but not bad for one person, and if you had two, piece of cake. The longest time was spent cleaning the floor under the old washer. Regardless, I love this washing machine. It holds tons of clothes, washes the load well and very quickly, is simple to operate, and just makes that little task in my life a lot easier. That is all an appliance is supposed to be and do. I have had it about two to three weeks, and my wife and daughter love it too, which is more important to me than my satisfaction with it. Did I buy into the Speed Queen marketing hype and do I like the fact that it says \"heavy duty super capacity commercial grade\" or something like that on it? Yes. Do I like the fact that it has stainless steel parts where other machines have plastic or cardboard? Yes. Am I thrilled that there is no button or screen to mash on that will wear out like a cheap volume adjustment on a mini van stereo - if it doesn't break first? You bet. I like that a lot. Do I like the fact that it has minimal electric cyborg computer chip foolishness in a high humidity environment? Yes. Do I mind that I can't turn it on or change its skin color or live stream a secure video feed of my clothes washing remotely from my office with an IPad? No. Will it last? I don't know. I hope it will, and it makes sense that it should. If it lasts, it will be the perfect washing machine - or maybe number two compared to my old GE. I wish this company made lawn mowers or gas grills.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3758, "id": 147451, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 419, "len_tokens": 693, "text": "Replacing the lid switch was easy, and I'm very happy with the quality of the replacement part.\n\nWhen the old lid switch melted, it ruined the connector on the wiring harness, too. I didn't want to spend $150 on a new wiring harness, so I did some homework and found out how to replace the damaged connector. That saved a ton of money.  This seems to be a common issue, so I'll provide the details here.\n\nThe connector that fits this switch is&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-part-WP2172937/dp/B00LOWYTT6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool part WP2172937</a>. That's just the plastic connector. The terminals inside the connector have to be purchased separately.\n\nFor anyone attempting this repair, I don't recommend reusing the terminals from the original connector. It's very difficult to remove them from the old connector without bending them up and making them unusable. Just cut them off, preserving as much of the wire as you can. I had to replace a section of the white wire because the insulation was toasted and the wire was tarnished for a couple of inches. I used a lineman's splice with solder and heat shrink tubing. There are plenty of YouTube videos that describe this procedure.\n\nWhen the new connector arrived, I found the manufacturer's name and part number stamped on it. Whirlpool WP2172937 cost me $11, but it's actually a repackaged Molex 43335, which can be purchased from mouser.com for $0.55. I found the connector terminals using the Molex website. Their part number is 43375-0001. You can get them for a few cents from mouser.com, but I opted to buy a&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/package-of-10-from-Amazon/dp/B00MMYTRJM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">package of 10 from Amazon</a>&nbsp;so I could take advantage of Prime shipping. (It's good to have some extra terminals for practice, anyway.)\n\nYou'll need a crimper for the terminals. The official Molex crimper is $500. Fortunately, I found a&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/much-cheaper-one-that-works-well/dp/B073VH2WJC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">much cheaper one that works well.</a>&nbsp;This crimper comes with 5 dies. For these terminals, use the \"1.5-2.5\" slot on the \"LG\" die. It does the conductor crimp and the insulation crimp at the same time. Make sure the terminal is oriented the right way, then insert it into the crimper without the wire and close the crimper just until the first click. The crimper will then hold the terminal securely, making it easy to insert the wire. After the wire's in, squeeze the crimper all the way.\n\nAfter the terminal is attached to the wire, you can slide the terminal into the connector with little effort and it will click into place.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3759, "id": 148463, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 563, "len_tokens": 639, "text": "I was leary at first of these small portables, and was afraid that because it was inexpensive it would be a tin can with plumbing. So as you probably also did what I did. and poured through all the reviews on all the other portable dishwashers also. Some glowing reports and some really hating these machines. Well if you look closely enough at the pictures you will notice \"All\" the compact machines regardless of the manufacturer are the same basic design. Some cosmetic differences and that's about it. So it's down to what color you like and what door you prefer on the front. And what seller you think will take care of you the best.\n\nI read quite a few got dented dishwashers because of poor boxing. I can tell you that this seller was very careful as it was extremely well boxed with very thick double lining and in a extra strong box. No way would this get dented in there. I also received it in two days from my order.\n\nOthers complained these little guys don't clean well. Well I can tell you that this in fact  has exactly the same components you find in a big dishwasher, Just minus a top sprayer. Has both a detergent door, and a rinse dispenser. And heat's the water and the interior is all stainless steel which if I were to buy a full size dishwasher. Stainless steel would be an expensive option. I found the pull out tray of high quality and came with very good hoses. Nothing about it seems cheap to me. And everything came out squeaky clean. It is for all intensive purposes just a miniature version of the real thing. So if it didn't clean you would have had the same problem with the big unit.\n\nI was also happy to find that when it drains it has a pump so that was good for me because I intended to hook this up permanently to it's own faucet and down the same drain as the washer the laundry room. So you can put this lower than the drain line. I was also delighted that the water inlet is a standard size as your washer inlet. So you can use any hose from home depot. You don't need to hook it up to your sink!\n\nAs for the long wash cycle complaint's it's no longer than a full size. So set it to Cup and glass clean for a shorter cycle. Or better yet just push the off and on button and reset it to rinse mode if you feel it's taking too long. It will detect that is has soapy water and will automatically drain that. Then it will refill and start rinsing with clean. You can even open it up and take a peek whenever you like (just don't open that door so fast as to get blasted with hot water, it will turn off quickly but still has water shooting around.\n\nSo for the price this is great bargain.\n\nI have had it for quite awhile now, and I did notice that the Dishes \"DO\" come out dry. This happens because the water is so hot that the dishes evaporate off the water. If you don't put a rinse agent in then you will probably have water drops. so take advantage of the rinse agent dispenser.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3760, "id": 148473, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 536, "len_tokens": 687, "text": "As a 58-year-old man with three advanced degrees (including broadly analytic lab science - criminalistics) and thirty years of primary home laundry experience, I viewed pureWash's technology and claims with a jaundiced eye.  And I've been a \"quiet environmentalist\" since before participating in the first Earth Day in 1970 (IMHO consistent environmental actions speak louder than the latest \"Green\" condemnation demagoguery).  But the \"ionized water\" technology has been used over the last decade in institutional and commercial settings with results at least as good as typical detergent-based laundry techniques for both sanitation and cleaning.\n\nThe pureWash unit presented favorably upon inspection, installation was quick and without incident, and the unit tested out as specified.  Test load was four large heavy cotton bath-sized heavily soiled \"dog towels\".  My spaniel girls, especially the young one, enjoy the wet Spring and get profoundly mucky.  The test towels were loaded with dirt and muck and grass stains and filth.  I normally wash and rinse warm with a well-rated scent-free liquid detergent and liquid non-chlorine bleach, both properly measured for each load.  My primary goals in laundry are to sort properly, wash with the appropriate detergent, use enough detergent to reach \"break point\" for cleaning the laundry, and to get all the soap and dirt out of the laundry before drying.  The pureWash was used without detergent or non-chlorine bleach and with cold wash and rinse.  Some initial observations:\n\n* The intake water from the pureWash was actively very fresh smelling without any hint of perfume, just fresh like spring thunderstorm rain.\n* The wash water upon draining was filthy and smelled foul (probably because there was no masking detergent odor).  There was residual soap foaming from detergent that had evidently remained in the towels from previous detergent washings.\n* Each subsequent rinse had progressively less smell, water discoloration and soap foaming, but it was obvious that the treated water in each rinse continued the cleaning process.  Personally, I like to watch the laundry filth going down the drain.\n* Upon removal from the washer, the laundered towels smelled very fresh.\n* Upon drying, the towels appeared to eye and nose to be as clean as any of my similar detergent-washed towels.  I am interested to see how their absorbency compares in actual use.\n\nNow I don't know how long my pureWash is going to last, what there is to wear out inside the device, or what long term results and reliability are going to be.  But it's warrantied for a year, and it's generally during that time that manufacturing and design defects become apparent, in my experience.  No PureWash wash cycle is a traditional wash cycle (no detergent issues and no water heating) and every rinse cycle is a PureWash cycle (the treated water is obviously working each rinse cycle to further clean and sanitize the laundry load).  I'm really pleased and satisfied with these initial results.\n\n3/21/13 EDIT:  I continue a year later to be impressed by 1) how fresh the PureWash treated water going into the washer smells and 2) how foul and sulphuric the wash water draining out of the washer smells.  To me, this means that the stink is out of the laundry.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3761, "id": 148520, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 559, "len_tokens": 625, "text": "I was fascinated at how well this product was rated and now that I am preparing to send 2 back for a refund,  I am shocked that it has been rated so highly.  It sounded too good to be true but after my husband and I read all the great reviews we figured it was a great buy. I ordered one for me and one for my mom. My husband hooked ours up as soon as it arrived.  It says it takes 9 minutes to install and that would be nearly impossible even if it wasn't leaking all over the place. When he finally got it down to a slow drip, we just decided to go for it. I had saved a load of whites for the test load because if it could get my socks clean or my husband's white T's clean, I would be sold on it. Started the washer, blue light came on, that fresh smell that everyone talks about that made me retch filled the room and the bubbles were rolling. I couldn't wait to unload and inspect every piece as I took it out and...nothing. Everything looked exactly as you would expect it to look if you washed it in cold water with no detergent. ...dirty.  I ran the same load through again with a half cup of detergent and it looked minimally better but not clean. So I gave up on that load and threw them in the dryer. The new t day I decided to give it another go and turned the washer on to fill it up and the blue light came on but was quickly replaced by a red light. I checked the manual and it said a red light means the oxidizing module has failed and product would need to be replaced. Wow. At least that answered my dilemma about whether to return it or not. But then we decided that we would hook up the one we bought to give to my mom, mostly to save her the trouble if it was really that bad and also to make sure that our poor results weren't the result of a failing module. Hers leaked even worse than ours, mostly due to the plastic fitting but I told my husband to just wrap a rag around iit long enough to test it out. The blue light came on and before it had filled up a third of the way, the light changed to red and the second one was done. I could not believe my eyes! How in the world this product has been rated so highly is a mystery to me! However, for those willing to risk it, here are the pros that we found: the clothes did smell fresh when they came out and everything felt softer than usual.  During the 2 days we used this product,  I called customer service 3 times and they are quick to answer and pleasant to deal with. They must get these calls frequently because none of them tried to talk me out of a refund. They knew there was no fixing them and instantly offered full refund and easy instructions on how to return them. By the way, these were both purchased directly from EdenPure, not a random dealer, otherwise I would swear we had been sold refurbished or substandard products.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3762, "id": 149730, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 551, "len_tokens": 663, "text": "If you are an appliance salesperson and do not offer these you need to have your head examined.\n\nWe've had our Bosch laundry pair for a few years now and it's been a love-hate relationship.  I'm not the one who does the laundry, but I'm the one who hears them run and gets sent running to \"catch the washer\" before it gets up against the wall or falls off of the platform.  You see the high rpm (1100) spin speed that gets the clothes so dry also can create a lot of vibration depending on the load size.  When we built our new home we decided that a first floor laundry was a must.  I designed the cabinet base and tops so that they are 15\" off the floor for an easy load height.  I spec's a center cabinet  to separate the machines.  I spec'd a pair of 15\" high base cabinets with a single drawer and topped them with the same granite as the countertops in our kitchen to add some mass and hopefully deaden vibration.  This works quite well for the most part, but the washer is constantly walking whenever it spins out.  Once it even came forward enough to drop off the front of the slab top.  We added bumpers between the cabinet and the wall which did help, but not really enough and when it got up against them it got really loud.  We bought the same laundry pair for my Mother at the same time and her washer walked all around the bare concrete basement floor also.\n\nSo I started searching and came across silent feet.  I'll be honest, on first impression and with the limited presence and relatively high price they seemed like something you'd see on an infomercial or something.  They kind of gave the impression of one of those miracle products that are overpriced junk.  Part of what got my attention was the mention of sorbothane.  I rememeber this from an early 1980's TV show called \"That's Incredible\" and was surprised to find the episode on you tube.  (...)\n\nI decided based on reviews here on Amazon etc. to give this product a try.  I started to search locally to see if anyone had them and quickly realized that I was wasting my time.  I ordered from Amazon and they showed up on the 24th which is much quicker than the estimated date of 12-28. I just installed them yesterday 12-26.  Unpackaging them and finding them sticking to the packaging inspired immediate confidence.  Today we put them to the test.  Once in operation the difference was immediately obvious.  I was initially concerned because I didn't get the granite as clean as I had hoped for under the rear feet, but at this point it appears as though they are stuck down nice and tight.  While I realize this is a very short term review based on initial impressions, I'm quite confident that these are the real deal and will do what we need them to.\n\nI should also add the Bosch makes a hold down \"bracket\" set to keep their machines from walking, but it requires it be screwed down to the platform which I find ridiculous.  I mean who is going to put a hole in their floor to anchor an appliance?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3763, "id": 152260, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 500, "len_tokens": 616, "text": "If you ever want to feel lucky to be alive, open up your dryer.  About a year ago, the heater coil burned out on our Duet dryer (purchased in 2003).  When we opened it up, we noticed a lot of lint on the inside.  There was no question about why the heater coil burned out.  Anyway, we vacuumed out the interior and got as much of the lint as we could.  We also did a thorough cleaning of the dryer vent.  It had been about a decade since it was cleaned out.  Again, no question as to why the heater coil burned out.  I won't go into why it took us so long to clean out the dryer vent.  Lets just said we got bad info.  That was the first time we realized we were lucky that our house did not go up in flames and kill us all.  It's also the reason we don't start the dryer before going to bed or right before we leave the house.  Anyway, fast forward to last weekend.  My son came to me and said the dryer won't start.  I thought maybe the breaker flipped.  Nope.  Display was on.  When you hit start, it would click, beep, and then nothing.  No tumbling.  So my husband decided to open it up and found that the belt was broken.  We ordered the full kit instead of just the belt.  The dryer is old, so it likely needed a tuneup.  At this point, we did not see the entire inside of the dryer.  When the part came in, and my husband and I spent an hour and a half working on the dryer.  About half of that time was spent vacuuming every crevice of the inside of the dryer.  When we took out the drum, we realized how much more lint there was in there that we did not see before.  My husband pulled some off the heater coil housing that was burnt.  That is the second time I felt lucky to be alive.  The original rollers were not in bad shape.  The clips holding them in place were difficult to get off, so those were not weak.  The original rollers were not as grippy (is that a word?) as the new ones.  We went ahead and replaced those.  We probably could have gotten done sooner but we wanted to get as much lint out as possible.  We did clean out the dryer vent too, but it wasn't to bad.  It fixed our issue.  Aside from the vacuuming, the most difficult part was wrapping the belt around the gears.  It's not that it was tight or anything.  It's that you had to make sure they were wound around the gears correctly.  The drum blocks your view so you have to feel around and hope you are doing it right.  You can test it by turning the drum by hand to make sure it's winding around correctly and that there are no twists in the belt.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3764, "id": 152901, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 534, "len_tokens": 610, "text": "My dryer abruptly started making a loud screeching sound after several years of ownership. A quick search online based on the symptoms led me to believe it was likely bad roller bearings or slippage of the belt, both of which this kit could address at the same time.\nI ordered this kit figuring it was worth a shot and a few hours of my time if it avoided me purchasing a new dryer (and the wife would probably want a new matching washer to boot :-) the kit arrived in a timely manner so I was able to get started with only a few days of laundry piled up.\nI searched on YouTube and found a video made by an appliance parts company to walk through most of the steps. My dryer was slightly different as the front panel was not as easy to get off, but overall the video was really helpful in all the steps it provided, and the order to take apart/ put together.\nI definitely recommend trying this approach rather than buying a new dryer. Overall it probably took me 3 hours to disassemble and reassemble everything. I wasn't really in any hurry, but took time to clean up all the lint and dust accumulated over the years at the same time.\nWhile disassembling I also took pictures of things like wiring harnesses ( there are a few both above and below and I think one might be in the back if I recall) before disconnecting, and the way the  belt wrapped around the pulley underneath to minimize the problems of re-assembling things.\nReally only a few other things to mention. Almost all the screws use a nut driver, so if you have one, it makes everything really easy. There seemed to be 3 types of machine screws used to assemble the dryer. Most are one type, so just make note of the few that are slightly different so that they go back in the right places. Also I missed one of the wiring harnesses that runs up the left front them at fell down under the roller drum, so I had to slightly disassemble to grab it and pull it back up. When you re- mount the drum on the rollers, ensure they seat properly (the video I found mentioned this too) and ensure the felt that seals the drum at the front and back makes a decent seal ( this also lets you know the drum is seated on the rollers correctly) and make sure the drum rotates freely as well.  As you assemble the dryer further and tighten all the nuts up, the felt seal further tightens so that your air is not leaking out, I wasn't sure my seal was good enough but it was fine after I tightened things up. When I re- fired up my repaired dryer, it was actually quieter than it had been in a while, less squeaks etc, so that was awesome.\nOverall, it doesn't take a lot of skill, I consider myself if average mechanical ability, and had no problems by taking basic planning steps. I will post pictures, but don't let them scare you. This is fairly straight forward.  Good luck!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3765, "id": 154673, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 568, "len_tokens": 693, "text": "My Whirlpool Duet washer was delivered in August of 2006. In March of 2010, I discovered that water was trickling into the tub while the machine was idle. The problem was in the water inlet valve and it was replaced under my extended warranty.  In April (2015), I again noticed water trickling into the tub and again the culprit was the water inlet valve.  To fix the second leak, I turned to Amazon and ordered a replacement part. I recieved a genuine Whirlpool OEM inlet valve in an OEM box.  Installation was easy, all you need is a pair of pliers, a # 20 torque-head screw driver, and fifteen minutes of your time.  There are a number of online tutorials you can find through Google or other search engines.\n\nSome reviewers have reported a problem with the hole for anchor screw not lining up with this part.  There is a notch on the part that needs to align with the sheet metal opening for the part. Make sure that the edge of the metal aligns with that notch and then firmly push the part to the left. It will slide over about  inch and it will then align perfectly with anchor screw hole.\n\nPlease note that water leaking into the tub can also be caused by a defective water pressure switch. If you unplug the power cord on the machine and the water stops leaking, your problem is probably the pressure switch.  If the water continues to leak with the machine unplugged, the problem is the water inlet valve.\n\nI can not award five stars to a part the fails every four to five years with moderate use. However, that is not Amazon's fault. I am awarding four stars for fast order turnaround, good price, and free shipping.\n\nUpdate 05/14/2016: My water inlet valve began leaking again today after 12 months of service.  My wife loves her washer. Have ordered another new valve.\n\nUpdate 05/20/2016: Installed the new water inlet valve today. While doing the install, I noticed the the rubber washers on the hot water hose had begun to break down. I also found a lot of tiny black specks stuck to the sides of the detergent dispenser that I assume are the result of the deteriorating black rubber washers. It is possible that a build up of these little specks of rubber in the interior works of the valve contributed to my latest failure.\n\nMy washer feed hoses were six-years old. I installed new hoses with the new valve. I recommend that, unless you have relatively new hoses on your washer, that you replace your hoses when you install a new water inlet valve. By the way, most plumbers recommend that that washer hoses be replaced every five years to minimize that possibility of water damage from a failed hose.\n\nUpdate 01/21/2018: I recently noticed that the little black specks were showing up in the detergent dispenser tray again. I checked my water inlet hose washers and found them in good condition with no evidence of deterioration. I then examined the little Water Inlet Valve to Dispenser Hose (Part# 8182683) by removing it and inserting a chopstick down the hose.  I then withdrew the chopstick and it was covered with black gunk and specks. The rubber inside the little hose was obviously breaking down. I replaced the hose. No more little specks in the detergent tray.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3766, "id": 155269, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 476, "len_tokens": 621, "text": "Kenmore Elite , side by side 8 year old fridge with broken ice maker (new in Fall 2008).  For several weeks,we had been making ice the old fashioned way.  Meanwhile, I took that maker apart 5 times trying to get it back online.  I poured over YT videos and blogs all around.  Gave up and call the tech.\n\nSo after trying to replace the 'motor module' with no success, the tech says, \"Ok, it must be the sensor\".  Yea, and it's also $500 for a new motor and a sensor kit. Couldn't put my old motor back on I guess, \"not a fair test\" he says.  I declined the estimate and paid the tech for the trip.\n\nHaving no fear at this point, I powered the fridge off, went in with a phillips head and exposed these \"sensors\".  Hah, nothing to it.  Just a small circuit board with some electronics on it.  They are essentially a remote control LED emitter on one side with a receiver on the other.  Came back over to my PC and typed in the serial number after extraction and found them easily on Amazon.\n\nBUT....  before I hit Amazon, I found another page [...] that explained how to \"BY-PASS\" the sensor to test if the issue is with the sensor or the ice maker. You would think the tech could take 3 minutes to test this... don't get me started.\n\nI DO NOT RECOMMEND YOU DO THIS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.  I think another review here posts the same link.  You essentially end up bridging a pair of high-voltage wires with a u shaped paper clip to tell the ice maker \"never stop\"!  Again, this is a high voltage bridge, read the page carefully.  I made the paper-clip with the electrical tape cover modification and sure enough, as soon as I powered on the fridge, the tines came rolling around.  Made ice perfectly all weekend.  Sweet.\n\nSo I came back and ordered this part from Amazon immediately. This was Friday afternoon, late.... great way to start a weekend.  The kit came today, Monday, so I took 5 minutes, powered off the fridge, swapped out these simple circuit boards, and I'm done. If you've ever seen a white power harness inside any PC in the last 20 years, that's all these are.  It's so easy, it's an identical swap, anyone can do this.  Just make sure you cut the power first.  Made in China, re-sold in NJ, but to my house over the weekend and it's happily making ice just like always.  So I avoided an unnecessary service bill of $500 or worse, an unnecessary new fridge !!!  Oh, been making ice ever since I installed the new boards too.  Will it last ??  time will tell... let's find out how far $40 can go.\n\nHope someone finds this helpful!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3767, "id": 156664, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 561, "len_tokens": 699, "text": "This kit has the two circuit boards needed to replace the left and right side icemaker optics in applicable KitchenAid/Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerators.  My 7-year-old icemaker quit, and it turns out this is the only repair kit I needed to restore its functionality.\n\nReplacement of the two optics boards took about five minutes: three screws on each side of the freezer compartment, disconnect and remove the optics panels, remove the screws holding the circuit boards in place (one on the left panel, two on the right panel), remove the circuit boards, and reassemble with the new boards by reversing the process.  You can watch this step-by-step process online -- just search on YouTube for the part number, 4389102.\n\nThe kit also supplies a wiring diagram and diagnostic instructions for the new circuit boards, and a suggestion where to save them in the base plate of the refrigerator along with the other diagrams stored there.\n\nI have had this optics kit installed since June 29, 2012.  The icemaker has been functioning like new since then.\n\nSo how do you know if you need to replace the optics?  Do a diagnostic test:\n\nCheck that the icemaker on/off switch (right side of freezer compartment) is ON.  Look at the red status light next to the on/off switch.  You should see the flight flash twice and repeat the double-flash every second.  Now close the left side flapper and don't block the light path from the right side where the red status light is.  The red status light should stop flashing and come on steady. If it is still flashing, your optics may be blocked -- or they might be bad, like mine were.  You might want to wait 5 minutes then unplug the refrigerator for 10 seconds to reset the ice maker control board and try the diagnostic again.\n\nIf the light still won't come on steady, you can check the rest of the icemaker by bypassing the optics system.  USE CAUTION, as the optics connections are live -- unplug the refrigerator for safety while bypassing the system.  First remove the right side optics panel (3 screws).  Next, disconnect the cable plug from the refrigerator going to the optics panel.  Now jump 2 specific connections on the refrigerator's plug (I cut a large paper clip and insulated the middle for this purpose).  The correct 2 wires to jump are next to each other and may be identified by color: black, and black-with-white.  Turns out my model used different colors, but I found online that the correct wires can be identified as the ones immediately below the bottom-most hole on the plug where no wire is connected (there are 4 wires next to each other filling up the rest of the plug below the hole).  I found a description and photos of this bypass operation on the ApplianceJunk (Appliance Repair Help) website by Googling the three words: 4389102 jumper paperclip (4389102 is the part number of this optics kit).  If the only thing wrong with your icemaker was the optics system, your icemaker will eventually make ice again (24 hours or less -- mine took about 2 hours).  Note: once the icemaker starts, it won't stop making ice while the jumper is in place, so don't let the icemaker keep going too long or it will overfill the bin and cause problems!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3768, "id": 156939, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 528, "len_tokens": 673, "text": "Feb 2013 UPDATE:  I replaced the recently replaced units AGAIN, and the non-broken side was failing, and the broken side was filing in a place other than the place that failed.  But, I followed the advice of those who say to grease the pulleys (grease, not oil), and this eliminated any noise.  I just hope it holds until I sell the house.\n\nAlso, if I needed to, I'd look carefully  at the recent post that talks about an original Whirlpool part with a new design.  They obviously know that their old design it terrible engineering, so a replacement with the straight cord configuration would be unsurprising.\n\nBefore I buy a dishwasher, I'm going to be looking at this feature on a floor model.  And I'll look at many alternatives before buying a $1000 Kitchenaid/Whirlpool again.\n----------------------------------\n\nI was worried after all the negative reviews, but this installed easily, and works perfectly, even better than the original version.\n\nUPDATE: I did the second dishwasher months later, and it had the terrible creaking sound that my lubricating efforts failed to solve.  I solved this by keeping the original puller parts in place, and using only the new cord assemblies.  There is nothing wrong with the original version, where the cord rubs, because the cord never breaks where it rubs.  It breaks (4 times out of 4) at the plastic end of the cord, which is a terrible design, as the cord rips away from the plastic easily over the years - hint to Whirlpool engineers - have the cord enter the end piece STRAIGHT, not at an angle).  This part, AND the replacement are DESIGNED TO FAIL.\n\nAnother UPDATE: the recently replaced one on the groaning dishwasher BROKE AGAIN! I'll never buy Kitchenaid/Whirlpool ever again.  What follows was written before this disaster.\n\nI installed it in a Kitchenaid top of the line from about 9 years ago, with a very heavy cabinetry front panel.  The install was straightforward (but you do need to disconnect water, drain, and electrical to pull it out enough to do the job).  I installed it in the middle of the three hole options, and the balance was perfect (better than before).\n\nI didn't need to add length (it is shorter), but it helped to have a third hand to help connect it while stretching the spring.  In one dishwasher, I used the middle position, in the other, I used the rear holes to accommodate a shorter cord.\n\nI was amused to find that the second side broke a week after the first, even before the repair was done.  I should probably get a spare for the second dishwasher's inevitable failure.\n\nIncidentally, the failure mode was when the plastic button on the end of the cord broke.  An old fashioned knot and bead would have lasted a lifetime, but Kithchenaid/Whirlpool saved three cents in assembly labor.  The cord itself did not break, so there was no fault in the \"non-rotating wheel\" design that generates cord friction (which helps avoid door movement when set at an intermediate angle.  The cord showed a little wear, but probably had 10 more years of use in it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3769, "id": 172792, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 546, "len_tokens": 602, "text": "This fixed my issue without any issues. I was a little skeptical because on some repair sites the 'official' part is listed at twice the price so you know how these things usually go. But I ordered it fully ready to return it if it did not fix my door latch error on my Whirlpool washer. But when I removed the latch from my washer and put it side by side the two parts were not only identical but they actually had the same serial numbers and were produced from the same plant with the same part numbers. Guess as usual that a wide swath of brands use the same part for their washers.\n\nThis DID fix my issue and I have not had an issue since I installed it.\n\nNow for the difficult part...Installing this part yourself IS a pain. Let me explain how I had to do it.\n\nIf you search youtube you will find you first have to remove the metal 'O' with a spring that holds the rubber boot on. That much was easy all you will need is two pliers for this, or a screwdriver.\n\nHowever unhooking the door latch is not exactly easy so I will detail how I did it.\n\nFirst to note there are 3 separate wiring harnesses that all need to be disconnected and then re-connected. You will have to disconnect some of these blind and by feel because there doesn't appear to be enough length to pull the latch to where you can easily do this while clearing the drum and front area of the washer where the latch mounts. You can however get a bit of an idea what you are doing if you use a flashlight and look through the hold\n\nDisconnecting the Harness wires\nOn your new unit find the harness wires. There are 3 of them located in the following areas.\nOne large harness on the bottom oriented vertically toward the bottom of the washer\nOne large harness on the top oriented vertically toward the top of the washer\nOne small harness on the top oriented horizontally toward the back of the washer\n\nNow the large harness on the bottom is the one you want to take off first it should be pretty easy\nNow for the part that was somewhat tricky, the top two harnesses are protected by a plastic 'wing' that latches on the left hand side. You will need to free this wing by pushing on it backwards to free it from protecting the harnesses.\n\nNow that the wing is out of the way you can remove the small harness then the other large harness. You might end up doing this looking through the small rectangular hole where your door latch actually fit because there really is no good other way to do this. The smaller one is a little easier to do first before you do the larger one. You might want to turn the latch around so you can more easily see to remove the smaller harness.\n\nAfter the harnesses are removed you simply reverse the process and screw the unit back into place. Yeah it is a little bit of a pain because of cable length but hey you saved yourself a good amount of money.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3770, "id": 177651, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 434, "len_tokens": 600, "text": "I purchased this dishwasher from the local home improvement store, and I couldn't be happier with it so far.  I was initially looking at the&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-WDT910SAYM/dp/B005BHSW3Y/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool WDT910SAYM</a>, but the only meaningful difference I could see was that model had a stainless steel interior for an extra $200.  Maybe it's worth it, but I don't know.  Clean dishes are clean dishes, in my mind.\n\nInstallation of this dishwasher is also pretty easy.  You have to buy the inflow hoses and connectors, but the home improvement store knows this and they have a kit already prepared with every connector you'd ever need.  The Whirlpool dishwashers require a larger brass connector than other brands, but it's in the kit and very easy to hook up.  Also, there are several good videos on youtube showing how to install this very model.  It took me a couple of hours to take out the old unit and install this one, but I was washing dishes much more quickly than I had anticipated.\n\nMy only concern about this dishwasher is the latch.  It works fine (for now), but it's a plastic latch.  It's actually in place out-of-the-box, but I thought it was a temporary shipping latch.  I even went back to the store to look at the latch on the floor model to make sure I wasn't missing something.  It's there already.  All you do is pull.  I thought it should have some sort of \"lock\" on it, but it doesn't.  Just push shut and pull open (the first couple of pulls are a little stiff).  Because it's plastic and easily removable, I'm tempted to order a replacement part right now while I'm thinking about it.  Who knows?  The latch will probably work fine for 20 years?\n\nAs far as noise is concerned, this unit is MUCH quieter than the freight train that was my old model.  Simple conversation or watching TV in the same room while the dishwasher is running isn't a problem.  You can hear it, but it isn't overly intrusive.  As far as cleaning is concerned, like the other reviewer I don't \"wash\" the dishes before putting them in the dishwasher.  So far, everything has come out spotless.  There is also much more room in this thing than I had in my mid 90's model Kennmore.  I don't pay much attention to changes in dishwasher technology over time, but all this additional room has been a welcome surprise.\n\nObviously, I won't be completely sure of the durability of this unit for many more years.  However, I am very pleased with this unit so far.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3771, "id": 177680, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 557, "len_tokens": 659, "text": "We have two homes and had the wonderful experience of having to replace the old GE dishwasher in both of them this year. The first one replaced was still working fine but was ten years old and a few tines that hold the dishes had rusted through and fallen off on both racks. We figured it was time to replace and spent many hours on the net reading reviews. There are tons of positive reviews for this unit, especially on the Whirlpool site. We bought the black version with every option including power scrub and movable tines. The first couple of loads were completely wet on the Eco cycle dry. Adding rinse agent solved the problem however. We were very happy with the sound level, speed and cleanliness of the dishes. We used the normal cycle, heat dry and Cascade Complete.\n\nSix months later, the other unit, also ten years of age, was leaking water from the motor housing. Having had such a great experience, we ordered the exact model but in white to match appliances. While the first few loads appeared okay, soon we noticed a substantial amount of mineral buildup on the glasses and dishes. The inside of the tub and racks began to look as if they had gone through a fifty year life there was so much buildup including food and a greasy film. We tried different brands of cleaners, both gel and powder, and different rinse agents. After reading review after review online, we discovered it was NEW GOVERNMENT REGULATIONS that had appeared to have destroyed our wonderful new dishwasher!!!\n\n1) First, the federal government passed legislation that required extremely low levels of energy and water consumption.\n\n2) Not to be outdone, 17 States then passed laws outlawing all phosphates in residential, but not commercial, dishwashers. The detergent manufacturers responded by removing phosphates from all brands in every state.\n\n3) Municipalities didn't like to be left out so some decided to outlaw water softeners.\n\nRemember our first wonderful experience. There, we have treated city water at 7 grains of hardness AND we run a water softener. Low levels of phosphate free detergent work just fine in that situation. The second home has treated city water which is extremely hard, has no water softener nor can we install. The new no-phosphate cleaners, which includes Cascade Complete, will not work. Ever. End of story.\n\nWe resolved our problem with three things. We ordered Cascade Professional from Amazon. It has phosphates!! Before using, we cleaned our dishwasher with a product called Dishwasher Magic which restored the interior to like-new appearance. We use low amounts of the Cascade Professional with Finish Jet Dry rinse. Finally, we use the Sensor setting. This setting will raise the water temperature if the incoming water temp is too low.\n\nWe literally spent days trying to resolve this issue. We probably washed ten loads while experimenting, hours on the phone and internet searching for answers and wasted money on a variety of products. I could rant for an hour on how little respect I have for the politicians that made us waste our time and resources trying to figure this out. Unfortunately, I couldn't rant without the use of foul language and the curse, \"May they all eat from grimy, encrusted, greasy, foul looking dishes and drink from cloudy, spotted glasses.\"", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3772, "id": 179553, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 484, "len_tokens": 614, "text": "Finding your correct original equipment maker (OEM) icemaker part is not so easy but this approach served well. I purchased this replacement ice maker (D7824706Q) for my 8 year old Kitchenaid counter depth french door/bottom freezer, refrigerator from Pandora OEM Parts directly (this listing's seller).  Why?  There are lots of icemakers and lots of refrigs that look alike I was mystified to be sure I had the correct one.  I wanted a genuine OEM replacement part, not a knock-off.\n\nWHICH PART DID I NEED?  Amazon can be helpful but I wanted to go to the source.  It took about an hour of research thru internet and phone, looking at Amazon and the KitchenAid customer support website and talking to the KA call center to achieve the goal: determine the correct part number.  Why so much work...KitchenAid uses a contract fulfillment warehouse to supply customers.  Here's the hassle--the online info at KitchenAid's site has part numbers.  The KitchenAid call center doesnt have actual part numbers just bin locations AND they cannot see the website that I am looking at.  I had cross-reference between SKU and bin location from what she was saying and I was seeing to determine what my model required. Once sure I had the correct icemaker part, KA wanted to sell it at about $150--more than I thought it was worth.\n\nPURCHASING THE PART.  So I came back to Amazon to see what people were saying about their purchases.  That's how I found Pandora OEM (it had good reviews and good ratings).  But, I decided to bypass Amazon and go to Pandora direct (for $15 extra), to avoid the service hassles often associated with Amazon as the intermediary (in case you get it wrong who do you call and who is responsible?). The language in Amazon vendor refund policies spelled trouble if I made a mistake.  I purchased at Pandora OEM's site, and the product was delivered (to So Cal) with free shipping in three days.  Impressive. AND here's what I was after at a good price--the box has these words \"Genuine Whirlpool Part.\"\n\nINSTALLING THE ICEMAKER.  It took me more time to take stuff out of the freezer, and remove the drawer, than it did to change the icemaker (about ten minutes).  There is a good video that shows how to take the various components off the icemaker if you google it.  The unit I purchased required me to reuse the bail, wiring harness, wire clip and a funnel shaped plastic fitting that covers the water inlet.  All easy to transfer to the new unit if you are careful.  With everything back together, I left for about three hours, in which time the freezer was back to operating temp and also made its first batch of ice. It cranks out ice very well and no issues.  Cannot get any easier--BUT you need to have the right part!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3773, "id": 179876, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 508, "len_tokens": 617, "text": "I had this range installed about 6 months ago. It replaced a nine year old Frigidaire gas range which was generally satisfactory but I was always frustrated with the lack of speed of the burners, despite the fact that it had what was, at that time, about the highest BTU burners available on a regular gas range.  Water took ages to boil, and with pasta, it almost never came back up to a real boil before the pasta got soft and stuck together without the benefit of a proper boil.\n\nThis new one has a more \"pro-style\" appearance, much sturdier iron grates, and wow, the burners! The 11,000 BTU burner in the old one has morphed into a 17,000 BTU in the right front, and the next more powerful one is 15,000 BTU in the left rear.  That means the fastest burner is nearly 50% more powerful than the old one, and boy, does it show!  Water boils so quickly I can scarcely believe it.  I can stir fry in a wok! There is a long oval center burner that I've not had occasion to use.  The grate for it can be replaced with an included griddle, for pancakes, eggs and bacon, and more.  I expect it will be very useful for making my Thanksgiving turkey gravy.  The roasting pan will fit very nicely on it.\n\nThe convection oven is terrific, but I have found it takes longer to preheat than the beep would indicate.  I've no idea why I would want a \"pizza\" setting, however. I've not tried the broiler as I use an outdoor grill, but I expect it would work as well as any gas broiler, moderately well.  I've also not yet the need to use the self cleaning cycle but as it worked very well in the old range I expect it will do so with this one. I love to bake and have found the convection oven allows me to actually bake three pans of cookies at a time very evenly.  I expect to put the flexible half shelf to use this Thanksgiving, stacking the stuffing and vegetable casserole to the side of the turkey, and that will give me a chance to try out the temperature probe (and undoubtedly the self cleaning feature!).\n\nMy only caveat about the rack that pulls out when the oven is opened is to be careful of it.  It must be the lower rack, and it will make it easier to burn your hands as it is raised up higher than the oven door when the door is open.  Just be aware of it, and know that you can disable this feature if you choose to.\n\nI feel that there is excellent value in this gas range, and as an avid and skilled cook and baker, I'm enjoying it to the max.  I paid about $900 for it.  A great price for an excellent range. I cannot imagine how a range costing twice as much could improve my cooking. I couldn't be happier!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3774, "id": 180153, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 458, "len_tokens": 699, "text": "Several reviews absolutely pan this machine, but our experience has been positive.  Therefore, given the (current) small number of Amazon reviews, I'd suggest looking at additional reviews on other websites before deciding whether to buy it.  I also suggest viewing this useful, model-independent video to understand how these machines work & how to properly use them:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1stdNzvWZ4M\n\nHowever, our experience has been quite good with the Bravos XL (as well as with its companion dryer, both which replaced our ancient but sturdy Kenmores).  Perhaps unlike older machines, you'll need to read the instructions & then decide whether you want to absolutely minimize energy/water consumption or just want to get your laundry clean (perhaps by modifying the defaults).\n\nThe machine is super quiet (very little vibration), has huge capacity, very hi-tech, and is very well constructed (e.g., stainless steel drum).  Its electronic control panel is easy to understand, and saves your preferences.  The worst I can say about it (so far) is that it goes through lots of inscrutable calibrations (i.e., enigmatic whirs & growls) before it actually gets down to business... this isn't grandma's washing machine.\n\nAt least so far it has given very clean results with large loads of towels, socks & underwear.  We also washed a large Amish quilt, using the \"bulky\" setting; I paused the machine & opened the lid during the wash cycle to see the water level.  The quilt was slightly below the water level... it looked OK to me, and the cleaning turned out fine.\n\nRelationships with washers & dryers are analogous to marriages... we'll see if the Maytag Bravos stands the \"test of time\" (;-).  I'll give it a 4 star for now and re-visit the review over time.\n\nBTW... The Amazon description for the MVWB750YW calls this machine a \"Maytag MVWB750YW Bravos 4.6 Cu. Ft. White Front Load Washer\".  My model MVWB750YW is a top loader, not a front loader.  My review is for a top loader.  I also note one of the very detailed negative reviewers says that they \"like the glass lid because it lets me see how harshly the washer is twisting my clothes.\"  The MVWB750YW Bravos does not have a glass lid, so that reviewer obviously does not have the MVWB750YW.  In fact, that reviewer simply copy/pasted their lengthy negative review (of no doubt only a single model) into 5 different Bravos models!  Another super-negative reviewer said the finish on the washer \"looked rough and cheap\" and did not match the dryer.  This statement is totally at odds with my experience: the finish on ours is excellent, and absolutely matches that of its companion dryer(<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Maytag-MEDB750YW-Bravos-7-3-Cu-Ft-White-Electric-Front-Load-Dryer/dp/B005HYUG94/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Maytag MEDB750YW Bravos 7.3 Cu. Ft. White Electric Front Load Dryer</a>).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3775, "id": 180323, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 490, "len_tokens": 682, "text": "I've been on the hunt for the most ecofriendly and efficient way to do laundry for the past few years.  I have made my own laundry soap and fabric softener.  I've tried several different types of biodegradable laundry soaps.  Before Purewash we were using ECOS laundry soap and vinegar (in the wash) and wool laundry balls (in the dryer.)  Our clothes were clean and unscented (that is unless they stayed wet too long from leaving them in the washer, or them being hung up to dry and not drying fast enough).  We have had the purewash for a few weeks now.\n\nHere is what Purewash has done for our laundry:\n-no more hot water\n-mostly no detergent, only a little for soiled/smelly laundry like dog beds\n-clothes have no smell (even if left in the washer a little too long, or hung up to dry)\n-clothes look just as clean as if detergent was used\n-using stain remover works well, washing itself doesn't get stains out, but the product manual tells you to use stain remover\n-no harsh chemicals next to our skin (especially important for our baby)\n\nHere is what I hoped it would do, but didn't:\n-soften clothes and towels (although this could be related to our hard water), I still use&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Woolzies-Wool-Dryer-Ball-set-of-6-Natural-Fabric-Softener/dp/B0067STK3C/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Woolzies Wool Dryer Ball, set of 6 ,Natural Fabric Softener</a>&nbsp;for softening\n\nOne thing I did notice the first time I used it - the water that drained out the first time smelled AWFUL!  It never happened again, so I'm assuming it was purewash cleaning all the gunk from our washer.  The Purewash has done well with our baby's cloth diapers too - I used to wash 2x and rinse 3x, now just one time each.  However, she is just starting to eat solid foods, so we will have to see how that goes!  So far she had carrots all over a cotton white bib, dried on, used stain remover and it came right out.  I'm interested to see if any new clothes we buy now will still look new in 6 months.  Using detergent is tough on clothes, so I'm hoping they will last longer!\n\nThe only thing I'm not completely sure about it the ozone used in the product.  Ozone (it's that really CLEAN smell, some air purifiers put it into the air) is not good for you to breathe in at certain levels.  Since it is infused into the water though, maybe it is safer?  I called the company and they assured me that the PPM was well below the required levels.  I just keep the laundry room doors shut while it's running - the smell dissipates quickly.\n\nAll in all I would completely recommend this product if you would like to save money on laundry soap and heating water as well as keep harmful products out of our wastewater system.  We will recoup our initial investment within a year.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3776, "id": 180404, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 562, "len_tokens": 675, "text": "I've been using this for just over 4 months, and i thought i'd give my opinion on it. I like it very much. I see now the listed price is about 25% below what i paid for it, damn. Not sure how that happened as it's a very nice unit, and was already priced a fair bit below the alternatives. With this new lower price maybe i should pick another up as a future replacement?\n  This unit is very powerful. I know there are others listed that have even more powerful induction zones, but honestly even this thing is over powering when needed. I ran some boiling water tests with this unit against my old propane cooktop. I'll spare you the gory details but using the same pot with the same water level and the same starting water temps, on both cooktop's most powerful burners the induction was almost exactly 3 times as fast. My old propane burner was rated at 12000 btu. I know there are again more powerful propane burners out there, but they aren't powerful enough to close the gap to induction. Even if it scaled perfectly, and i doubt it does.\n  This model is designed in such a way as to draw in cool fresh air and exhaust the warmer air(heated from within the unit by the electronics) towards the user just above the countertop. I think this is a good design. You can only slightly feel the air movement, but i doubt most people would notice. The built in timer is handy, never seem to have enough of those in a kitchen. If I had to come up with a gripe, it would be that you are only given a numerical system of 1-9+\"P\" for power settings. It would be cool if you could with the press of a button swap a burners controls out for an actual temperature setting. Sounds like an easy thing they could incorporate, but i don't know of any non commercial unit that will do that. Also, i wish the \"p\" setting, which is beyond \"9\" and for a limited time(how long i don't know, as \"p\" gets it done right NOW) was available all the time. You see when you press a burners individual power button to fire it up, you have either a down or up arrow. if you select the up arrow you will be taken to the \"p\" setting which is full throttle. but say things are just getting out of hand after a minute a \"p\",  and they might. that pasta water is boiling all over the place so you take it down to 9- 8. then after a bit you drop in 2lbs of pasta and the water temp drops. So you want to step on the gas to get it boiling again ASAP. Well, you can only arrow up to 9. to get to \"p\" again you have to press the power button and shut down the burner then restart is and select p again. it's weird but hardly a deal breaker.\n also, I take pots and pans off the burners while they are on all the time. the cooktop doesn't seem to care. it also doesn't seem to care that sometimes my pots and pans are to small to cover a burner. the cooktop doesn't get mad and time out on me.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3777, "id": 181104, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 393, "len_tokens": 606, "text": "I live in an apartment building with 12 units and a small pay laundry room with 2 washers and 2 dryers that closes at 7pm. On top of that, one of the washers has been broken for ages. Repair the washer? Nah, just raise the price on the one working washer that 12 families share! Landlord logic. But I'm sure you're more interested in the product than my problems so....\n\nI bought this thinking I could use it to do quick, small loads to at least have clean clothes regularly. It is amazing. You have to be careful not to overfill it or it won't spin fully, but since it's transparent and you can lift the lid while it's still going, this is an easy thing to check on/correct. So far it's cleaned everything from delicates, t-shirts, jeans, to bath towels thoroughly and quickly. I notice no difference between using this and the industrial washer in my building except I can use this in my underwear at midnight.\n\nThe best part is it even gets my boyfriend's gross, sweaty socks thoroughly cleaned, soft, and white again.\n\nMy process to get my clothes just as clean as a standard washer:\n\n1. Fill with water and dirty clothes\n2. Add detergent, wash\n3. Drain, refill\n4. If really dirty clothing, repeat step 2\n5. Repeat step 3, add fabric softener\n6. Check if clothes still feel a little soapy (this sometimes happens if you use too much soap) if so, another rinse cycle. If not, you're done.\n\nThe only con is if you have a t-shirt or something with a lose string, the washer will take it and run with it. This typically happens in old t-shirts.\n\nI bought this cart to keep it on to wheel from where I store my laundry stuff to the bathroom or kitchen when I do laundry. It fits perfectly on top, you can keep other laundry supplies/small appliances on it, and wheels easily.\n\nhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000063SI0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00\n\nI also bought this spinner to dry the clothes, it doesn't heat dry them but spins enough water out that they're practically dry and can hang dry just fine.\n\nhttp://www.amazon.com/Laundry-Alternative-Ventless-Portable-Apartment/dp/B00CDWTQKI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436813496&sr=8-1&keywords=the+laundry+alternative+ninja+soft\n\nI also have this that I'll use after the spinner if dry clothes are a must as soon as possible, but don't use it too often to save on electricity.\n\nhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PGFGVB6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3778, "id": 181207, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 566, "len_tokens": 682, "text": "I've owned this guy for about 2 years now. I don't use it constantly, and I bought it used off of a guy on Craigslist along with a small spin dryer. I love this machine.\n\nI actually HAVE a full sized washing machine and dryer in my home. I also live with no less than 6 people. The laundry is frequently full, and it won't accommodate delicate items like it should too.\n\nWith this thing, I can wash a few items, or necessary items for the week, in just 20-30 minutes without waiting for laundry. They stow away in my closet when I'm not using them. Also it's very safe (so far!) for all of my hand wash only clothes. (if you have beaded items, or silk, this is NOT going to be safe for those things. Dry clean them with a wool-lite dry-clean kit instead.) I just use a bucket to fill it up from the bath tub. You don't need much soap at ALL to get your clothes smelling great. Probably about a teaspoon to a tablespoon depending on the load, and a teaspoon of bleach if you're doing whites. Then you drain it out with the drainage hose (it HAS to be in the upright position when you wash though! You'll forget only once, I promise.) and do the rinse cycle. I put about a teaspoon or two of fabric softener, and 2-3 drops of bluing for whites into the rinse cycle (which is just fill it up again and wash it again). That's it, that's all. Best of all, if you need to soak heavily soiled clothing, you can just not run the washing machine and it'll just let the clothes sit in the water all you want before you wash! My front loader washing machine won't do that.\n\nIt worked great in my apartment when I was too lazy to go to the dry cleaners, and in my house now with emergency \"I need this washed NOW\" items, hand wash only items, \"wash this by itself\" items, and stuff like that.\n\nI bought it used, and the little plastic clip broke on the drainage hose (my fault on that), but I fixed that with two bread twist ties and honestly I like those better because they hold it firmer. This thing is super easy to use, and if you have a spin dryer you don't even need to wring the clothes out. Just dump them in the spinner and spin them out. It's really awesome.\n\nword of caution: Make sure it is FLAT on a surface that is not wet. It will skid on smooth, wet surfaces.. Put a towel underneath it. Another seemingly common sense thing, but there is little protection where the device and the drain hose meet, and I've cracked the hose a tiny bit by being careless. Take the time to ensure you don't bump that hose on things.\n\nTo stow it away, just let the drainage hose flow downwards and open the lid and let it dry out overnight. Then it can be stowed.\n\nThe wonder wash is a mess of a machine. That machine sucks, don't get it. This machine, for about the same price (okay okay almost twice as much, but still used I got this thing for $60!) does the washing FOR you. It doesn't eat up a ton of electricity either.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3779, "id": 181269, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 587, "len_tokens": 696, "text": "To begin I must admit I am not the brightest bulb when it comes to understanding the physical universe.  Academically I'm fine, but little things like gravity take more time to figure out.  So I waited a couple of months to write this review, until I felt I had things worked out to satisfy my own situation.\n\nMy first issue was how to fill this tub.  It's taller than any of my faucets and the filler hose that comes with it was too short and too flimsy.  The longer sturdier one I bought at the hardware store was still too clumsy and hard to manage for me.  So I ended up buying a nice big watering can and I use that to fill the tub.  Works great for me.  Everyone will have to figure out their own best solution.\n\nNext I had to decide where to put the thing.  I tried setting it in the bathtub, where the water could just run down the drain.  It's OK, but it felt clumsy, involved a bit of bending and stooping and the cord wasn't long enough to reach the outlet over the sink by itself, so I had to use a heavy duty extension cord.  I was worried about using the counter next to the kitchen sink, because there's a cabinet hanging over it taking up about half the depth and I was afraid the washer would wiggle itself off the edge.  It turns out the washer stays pretty steady, though I don't leave it alone in the kitchen, and the water drains beautifully into the kitchen sink.\n\nThe biggest issue I have had is the amount of suds it creates.  There are little nubs on the bottom that do a beautiful job of swirling the clothes over, under and around.  But as soon as I finish my current bottle of detergent I'm going to get the LE kind, because with even half a teaspoon those little nubs create an insane amount of suds.  I am still washing some clothes without adding any detergent after wearing them a second and third time because there is so much residue left from the first time.  If I pre-treat collars and cuffs, that alone is enough to wash the load and I need to do a couple of rinses.\n\nAs for rinsing, I don't do that with the washer, because it seems a never-ending amount of suds continue to come out.  After I have cleaned all the suds out of the washer and wiped it, I put it away.  Then I rinse the clothes in the kitchen sink and spin them in the partnering spin \"dryer\" I have previously reviewed.  The dryer I do put in the tub with an extension cord, then I hang the clothes on a great drying rack that I have also reviewed.  I still use the pay machines for sheets and towels; I'm not completely crazy.\n\nAll that said, I love this machine.  It's just right for a control freak who wants to manage every step.  I can wash small batches so I don't have a lot of dirty laundry in the bottom of my closet and I am free of spending all those quarters and all that carrying up and down stairs to the basement of my building.  It does a fabulous job of cleaning things and is easy to move around.  I store everything in a closet.  Plus I know I'm already on the way to having it pay for itself in money and stairsteps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3780, "id": 181328, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 551, "len_tokens": 687, "text": "I'm moving into a new apartment pretty soon, but it doesn't have any washer/dryer connections.  So when I found this, I thought it would've been perfect.  I even saw a few people on youtube that gave it high recommendations.  But I encountered a few problems with it, and now have second thoughts about buying it.\n\nSo, first of all, you have to fill it with a lot of water...constantly. I would fill it with water for the first wash, drain it, fill it again for a rinse cycle, drain it, then I have to fill it again just to get all the soap out.  I can't remember which review it was, but someone estimated that it takes about 50 mins to do. yeah....yeah it does.  and that's only for just a small load.  And the hose it came with for you to fill the tub with is just crap.  So i have to use a bucket to fill it up.\n\nIt's better to just wash it once, and rinse the soap out of your clothes in your sink.  Also, because it can only small loads, you'll have to do a lot of laundry if you wait too long.  A regular load of clothes will equal 2-3 using this panda washer.  And it means you'll have to do laundry every 2-3 days.\n\nAlso, I did encounter the problem where the agitator/pulsator on the bottom of the machine just suddenly stopped working after a month or so.  I managed to fix it by unscrewing the back, cleaning out the dust, and moving the disk with the belt on it around a bit.  However, the belt gets stuck a lot though, but I'm not too upset about it since, for now, I can fix it when it does stop.  Even so, cleaning out the dust in this thing is almost impossible.  SInce I can't unscrew the pulsator because of how tightly it's screwed on, I have to clean it out through the back.  but the motor, belt, and wires are all in the way, and the dust accumulates behind all those things.  I can get some of it out, but not all of it.  Rather than having had built it that way, I wish the company had made it so you could've unscrewed the bottom.  That way you can get all the dust out.\n\nIt also has the problem where it would just spit out water everywhere through the drain hose.  The only way I was able to resolve that was plugging it up by stuffing a towel inside the hose during the wash.\n\nIn the end, the problems that I've seen in some of the reviews and that I've encountered myself, can be resolved.  But this machine is far from perfect, and I would recommend not to get your hopes up too high.  I gave it 2 stars mostly because I expected this machine to be well made enough so that all I had to worry about was just washing clothes.  But with all these other small problems it has, it just builds up and the machine has kind of become a hassle to use.  I do still use it for small clothes and undergarments, but everything else I just wash in the tub.  So it's kind of a half and half situation.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3781, "id": 181338, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 495, "len_tokens": 666, "text": "Having recently married, I moved 'in' with my husband.  The apartment we chose was big, 2 bedrooms, but no washer/dryer hook ups or machines in the apartment.  There were laundromats on site, but I really hate the hassle of going back and forth (from the second floor to ground floor several times; I've done the laundry walk many times years ago, OVER IT).  So I started looking up portable washers to see what the cost was and see if it was worth the investment to get a little machine to do my clothes.\n\nThe Panda seemed to always get the best ratings, and there are a few helpful youtube videos that help you with FAQ, troubleshooting, assembly, etc.  If the machine isn't awesome, THE CONSUMERS ARE.  As of now, I hook up my Panda to the kitchen sink and tape it with electrical tape (cheap cost, and the roll lasts a while).  The panda is really great with light clothing: your delicates & intimate clothing.\n\nThe only drawbacks to using the portable washer in your kitchen is that the entire surrounding area will smell of water for a while.  Just like your bathroom after you take a shower/bath (so not a BIG deal, but noticeable).  Usually when I use the Panda I will do 3-4 loads of wash, wring out the water by hand (not a big deal AND free), and then hang it on my drying rack (I use something similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Badoogi-BDP-V12-Foldable-Compact-Storage/dp/B008BM3G50/ref=sr_1_38?s=storageorganization&ie=UTF8&qid=1359385157&sr=1-38).\n\nIt takes a little more effort to wash heavier clothing: like the hubby's button-downs, any of our jeans, but for socks, undershirts, etc - I was able to fit 8-11 different articles of clothing (a pair of socks would equal 1 article of clothing to me) in the Panda without difficulty.  If you do put in too much clothing, the machine will start to click (I believe the sound comes from the bottom, where the white disk is - whatever mechanisms it's covering, it seems to come from there).  And if the clothing looks to not be moving as well, or in that familiar 'spinning' motion around the middle, than you do have to take out a couple of the heavier articles and see if that doesn't alleviate/eliminate the clicking sound/continued spinning of the clothes.\n\nAt home depot I also found a container that soaks up the humidity in the surrounding area for $8.  It's sealed until I want to use it.  The next time I do a few loads of laundry I will use it!\n\nAs of now, I'm very happy with this purchase.  The instructions are pretty straightforward as far as turning on the machine, the minutes for a washing cycle, and maintenance.  And if I had any other questions I always came back to the reviews here on Amazon to see what other people had to say/input. I'll post/edit my review if I find issues in the near future.  Good luck!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3782, "id": 181642, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 514, "len_tokens": 615, "text": "When I first bought this cook top I gave it a five star review, after waiting years for a new cook top I was so happy to have five burners with a griddle, a fast boil feature and a slow simmer feature, I was on top of the world.  Sadly, within a couple of months of using this cook top the valves became very hard to turn, one morning, as I happily began to heat the griddle to make pancakes, one of the knobs snapped off because it was so difficult to turn.  I called for service and was greeted by a very unfriendly repair man, after diagnosing the defective valve and ordering parts,  the repairman returned in about a week or so with the wrong valve.\nA new repairman came out a second time with the correct valve after another week or so had gone by.  Imagine your shiny new cook top broken while you wait for all of this..\nWithin a couple of months, the valves became difficult to turn .  Once again, the knobs, which are plastic, began to snap off simply from turning on the heat.  We now have 2 knobs out of five that aren't broken that we move back and forth to turn on the burners.\nOnce again, I called for service.  I said, I am done with this cooktop.  I spent a fortune on this, I want to exchange it for a new one, I haven't had this one year and it has been a problem from the start.\nI was told by a GE rep they would not exchange our cook top, but they would send out a repair man.\nOK I said, send a different company, I cannot deal with that first company you sent here.\nThey sent out a different repairman, this time from a great company I recognized as being in our area for at least 25 years.\nOur technician was very polite, I told him our problem and he ordered the parts again.  That was about two weeks ago.  Now we have our daughter, her husband and their 4 little ones with us, so there is a lot of cooking going on.  Yesterday, I tried to turn on the burner and there was an alarm that sounds a bit like what you would hear if there was a nuclear melt down at three mile island.  Now none of the burners will ignite.  We have to reach under the counter, unplug it, then plug it back in again.  This is no easy task unless you like crawling under your cabinet every time you want to turn on your stove.  Each time we plug it in we are graced with that horrible alarm that wakes the children from their naps.  I am beyond sad, disappointed, disgusted, and frustrated.  Our appliance repair shop say's they've ordered more parts, they do not know when they will  be in..  In the meantime, I'm trying to feed 8 people.  Please do not waste your money on this product, I want to save you a lot of heart ache.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3783, "id": 182054, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 551, "len_tokens": 656, "text": "Yay! I installed this on a Whirlpool WRT311SFYW01 which didn't have an ice maker installed. Everything arrived except the insert that goes from control pump line into the fill tube adapter at back of unit. Works anyways. Now let me say this, the manual is a joke. All the pictures are zoomed in and give you no reference to where the picture is. Most parts are unnumbered and many look the same. It does say that this is for replacing or professional installation so that explains the professionally worded manual. Anyways, Im a visual conceptualizer so I just laid it all out and examined the fridge. I had to pop out a few plastic screws and pop off the back plate and the metallic tape sealing up the foam gasket  on back. Used a screwdriver to open the foam and pushed adapter valve in. Inside parts are fairly easy and I used the mid sized fill tube. I didn't need any adapters to mount the main unit. The one piece that didn't fit properly is the adapter plate that should seal up the back wall. My unit has a square fitting while this one is kind of shield shaped. I used some foil to seal it better. It cant be seen anyways but don't want heat coming in. I needed to remove the bottom fiber board on the back of the fridge and pop out a small spot for the fill pump. It was pretty straight forward. I needed to thread the holes with wood screws before the fine threaded machine screws would go in. Ran line up to fill pipe and cut to fit. Again the insert pictured in the manual was not included but the seal is fine and no leaks. Now here is a little advice I hope you take. Dont skimp on your fill line. Just get a stainless one and an adapter that will fit on before your sink line or dishwasher or laundry. I got the cheapo kit and the line was literally too small. I ended up using the tap but thats because it was already there lol. I wish Id have just gone all metal from the get. Would look much cleaner. 20ft stainless line hooked up and I flipped the switch. We tossed the first 3-4 batches but now its cranking out the ice! I drink a lot of beverages and need them cool. I hated filling ice trays and always forgot to get a bag at the store. Problem solved. Cant really find any faults aside from the manual, missing insert and the back plate not fitting. However 2 of those issues are because this is actually the ECKMF64 (i believe) and not the 94. This one is for replacing an existing maker and it says that on manual. Would be good to note that on here. All this probably means is a different manual and back plate lol. I should be able to find that piece for a few bucks somewhere.\n\nAnyways 5/5 works great but just be aware this is the 64 and not the 94, IT REPLACES THE 94! If you have the WRT311SFYW01 FROM WHIRLPOOL AND IT DOESNT HAVE AN ICE MAKER INSTALLED THE BACK PLATE WILL NOT FIT PROPERLY. Other than that its a perfect fit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3784, "id": 182122, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 513, "len_tokens": 649, "text": "After scouring the internet for a good deal on a kitchen island hood, I chose this one based on price and previous reviewers.  Overall, I am very pleased with the results.\n\nI inspected the hood once I got it in case it was dented as others had pointed out.  I thought it was packaged nicely.  Instructions are downright comical with some of the obvious Chinese to English translations.  And everything is in millimeters.  No big deal really, but you have to double read everything and then look at the comic like illustrations to get the idea.\n\nFor sure, DO NOT use the \"rubber expanders\" (thats how the instructions call it) to hang this right from the sheetrock as suggested by the instruction.  Molly, toggle bolts, whatever you want to call them, you simply cannot hang 65+ pounds vertically from sheetrock.  As others have suggested, you need to build a box of 2x4s off of the ceiling joists and attach the hood mounting plate DIRECTLY to wood.\n\nI found it strange that its powered by a 3 prong cord and not hard wired since its a permanent fixture.  I mounted mine to an 8 foot ceiling by myself by basically winching it up with a rope and then locking it in place.  My hood is about 27\" above my cooktop.  This leaves the 3 prong plug about 8-10 inches past the ceiling.  I then had to install a single use outlet box just for this to plug into.\n\nThe lights on it don't really do much other than enhance existing lighting in your kitchen.  I am actually able to use them as a nightlight in my kitchen dining room area, that's how dim they really are.\n\nThe 3 fan speed work great.  I fried onions last night and not a whiff of it in the house.  My wife was outside and came in to tell me how wonderful the neighborhood smelled now.  So its working for sure in that aspect.\n\nSound at highest speed is not too bad.  I can still watch and hear the TV in my dining room if I turn it up a little bit.  You can still easily have a conversation.  I have found using it on 1 or 2 setting to work just find and clear things out.\n\nThe military grade 24hour clock is nice and bright.  If anybody can figure out how to put it in 12 hour time, that would be great.  Luckily, I have 2 other clocks in my kitchen, so not a big deal.\n\nInstructions need to be clearer, but I think any good skilled DIY person can put this up in an afternoon.  I did it by myself in about 4 hours.  One thing that slowed me down is that its a 6\" duct system.  Lowes and Home Depot in my areas only carry 4\" duct and roof collars.  So I could not cut the hole in my roof and vent it until I ordered a 6\" duct system from Amazon (Speedi-Products EX-RCGC 06 6 inch).  Was only $30 and it works perfectly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3785, "id": 182620, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 530, "len_tokens": 666, "text": "My washer died two weeks ago.  It was time to replace it and my dryer. So I listened to the service repairman who recommended Whirlpool and then I went to Lowes  for tax free weekend.  This meant I had to wait two weeks before I could do my wash.  well I did not have time to  read reviews and do my research instead I listened to the sales person at Lowes who was very knowledgeable.  I had already decided last year when I replaced my washer and dryer that it must have a powerful sanitizing capability and steam.  I have 1o animals and my home is also my business, lots of people come through and stay here.  So bed linens, massage table linens are constantly being washed.  Well while I was waiting for my new machines I started to read the reviews and panic began to set in.  I read many like he ones on this pages.  Well during this time I have had one of my animals get sick, a cat and he is peeing all over the place, bed and throws and dog beds.  I also had left a pile of towels to be washed on my floor ready to be thrown in as soon as the washer was delivered today.  Well I was nervous,  hearing all the comments abut water levels and not cleaning work out clothes.  I thought ...God help me if this washer and dryer don't live up to their marketing material.  Well I am happy to report that my first bulky load of every towel in my house, some saturate with cat urine, came out beautifully clean and fresh smelling,  The next load required the sanitization setting.  Sheets, bed linens and quilts.  Soiled terribly. They too came out clean as a whistle.  I have moved on to colored and more delicate clothes.  So far...outstandings.\n\nMy advice to those that claim it is garbage and that it does not clean properly...read the directions.  Its a great machine.\n\nupdate...Now have used every function on both thewasherand dryer.  perfection.  no issues with water levels.  the machine functions differently than traditional,but is definitely far superior.  I can't believe a washer and dryer could make me so happy.  with all the animals the pet hair never fully would be removed.  Black clothes were a nightmare for me.  lint in the dryer in volumes.  Well for those of you that are pet owners, the washer removes 99 percent of the hair and the dryer has hardly any lint at the end of the cylce...amazing!  yesterday I washed 6 throws made from fleece that the cats repeatedly lie upon and then three throws that are cloth and decorative...I simply steamcleanedthose I. the dryer.  all hair removed and they were perfect.  the fleece throws all went into one load on Eco boost and cold wash...clean as a whistle and no hair to be found.  I am just so thrilled.  my husband and I love to watch thewasherand go through all it's cycles...I know it sounds silly, but its cool to see how it works...not like a traditional washer.  please don't worry about water levels the machine knows what it is doing!!!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3786, "id": 183882, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 540, "len_tokens": 622, "text": "I can't believe I waited so long to get a dishwasher, but boy am I glad that I finally caved and decided on this one. I really wish I had gotten this when I was living in my own in college. I avoided having company over because of how embarrassed I was that my dishes were almost never caught up. When I saw how small this appliance was, I was reluctant to consider this dishwasher. After reading all of the reviews and seeing how well constructed the appliance is I took the plunge. I found myself avoiding dishes for a few days, just to see how well it cleaned dishes that had sat without being soaked for a few days. I found that the Cascade 2 in 1 pods and Cascade liquid rinse aid worked best.  The dishes always came out looking brand new. The only exceptions were (on a rare occasion) fork twines were only about 99% clean, and oatmeal that had sat for a few days would come out 98% clean. I'll take those odds and sprinkle some water on the few dishes that don't turn out brand new when they leave the dishwasher any day over scrubbing dishes for an hour. And if you soak only the very worst dished for 10-15 minutes, your odds go up to 100% clean for everything. I hate soaking dishes because I forget about them so I am glad it is not necessary.  Oh, and anyone with back problems listen up! I NEVER considered the benefits of having a counter-top dishwasher on one's back until I started using this dishwasher. I hate bending over to do laundry, and I love how the majority of my dishes can be loaded at counter-height. Only the largest pots and pans do not fit, which I am ok with cleaning myself. I told my fiance if in the future we do get a larger dishwasher in the event our family grew, I would still never let this one go. In order to get the same quality in a full size dishwasher as this one, you have to pay MUCH more money. Having a stainless interior alone helps a lot with maintaining a high temperature and the drying process. When I crack the door open after the wash cycle, I never have any issues with my dishes not being dry after 10-15 minuets. Please consider quality over space quantity when making a purchasing decision! I have no problems fitting in all of the plates, silverware, glasses, and desert dishes for 5 adults when I have company over in one go. How much more space do you really need if you do not have a large family? And even if you do, it is still nice to be able to just load the dishwasher and hit \"start\" as opposed to waiting for the perfect number of dishes to be in the washer. I used to find it somewhat comical that families who did have dishwashers let their dishes sit in the washer dirty a few days because they felt guilty about running a dishwasher half empty.  Now I pity them. You never have to feel guilty about running this energy efficient appliance. What more could you love?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3787, "id": 183900, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 543, "len_tokens": 622, "text": "My husband and I bought our DW and we both think it works great.  It came well packed, no damage of any kind.  It is simple to use.  We use it for all the small items and wash the pots and pans by hand.  I wash the pots and pans each time before using the dishwasher.  It does a great job of cleaning.  My dishes do come out mostly dry after a few minutes of completing its cycle. Only the cups have a little water left on them but this has been true of every DW I have used.  I only need to use one DW gel pack for cleaning even though there is a place for 2 for dirtier loads.  I always rinse off food before the dishes go in it.  There is a tray to empty food particles that may gather during a wash cycle which should be cleaned out each time if needed.  Mine has never needed it.  It is very quiet while running, more so than any other DW I have owned.  Some friends stopped in recently, saw our little DW and all were impressed with it.  They said this is a better size for them too since it may take 2 days for them to have enough dishes to make a load.  The price is more affordable than many other Portable dishwashers that we looked at during out search.  We did not have enough room under our counter or on our countertop so we purchased a small cute, short, white table from Big Lots for $69, removed the short legs and replaced them with sturdy casters. With the DW sitting on the short table it opens at just the right height.  The DW is heavy so you do need a sturdy cart, be sure to check the weight allowance on a cart if you buy one. I think the DW weight is around 49 Lb's and with dishes and water in it you need to allow for more weight. The rack is smaller than a single rack of a typical dishwasher but once I practiced getting my dishes in I am happy with the size of the load.  If you cook a lot this may not be for you but we usually cook 2 times a day and snack so this works great. I love that it heats the water to sanitize the dishes.  When we are finished doing a load we turn off the hot water and empty the hose in the sink.  You need to push the little red button on the white sink nozzle attachment to release the water pressure before detaching the hose.  We then put a small pan on the floor and allow the hose to completely empty into the pan.  This just takes a second and removes all water left in the hose.  It will also sound a buzzer if you turn the DW on with the attached hose but forget to turn on the Hot water.  We did this once and were so glad for this feature.  We would not want to burn out the motor.  I tell my husband almost everyday, \" Did I tell you that I love my new dishwasher?\" This works for the 2 of us.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3788, "id": 183963, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 505, "len_tokens": 634, "text": "I expect part of the reason I give this product five stars is because I hate washing dishes so much and am so relieved not to feel irritated with my sweetie when he doesn't do his share. Sure, there are trivial annoying things about this machine, i.e. the tine lay out in the dishwasher rack could be better, the shortest wash cycle is 45 min., and there is no mechanism to tuck the hose away in the back (though you can coil it). You will periodically want to re-tighten/check the hoses in the back of the machine; ours loosened once due to coiling the hose and it started leaking a bit, though it was nothing dramatic. Also, it is sort of a big hulking machine that takes up a chunk of space not very prettily (you will definitely want to measure before ordering); the exterior is a silvery plastic *not* stainless steel (a little cheap looking). However, I love everything else about this machine. It does exactly what it's supposed to. It washes dishes. It sterilizes them. Plus, it's not too loud, it hooks up easily to my sink, it is simple to operate, and uses very little water/energy. It fits more dishes than I expected. We are a two person household, and he works from home. In two days we generate just a few more dishes than it has capacity for, so I'm running it every day about 2/3 full, while hand-washing pots and pans. We just scrape the dishes and put them right in without rinsing first (for the most part), and I've found the \"everyday cycle\" (85 min.) to get the dishes perfectly clean. Just so you know, it *just* fits our 10 1/2 inch dinner plates, we have to squeeze them through; it certainly will not fit anything taller! Also, if you need to use the tap while it's washing you can easily pause the cycle between water intake/draining, unhook, re-hook, and restart. Or, for a quick rinse, just use the water pressure release button with the tap on. The display shows exactly how much time is left in the cycle. When it's done washing it beeps about four times, not too loudly, and then sits quietly until you turn it off and disconnect it (which is why I didn't go with another model that apparently would beep every five minutes once it was done; I abhor beeping). Like everyone says, it doesn't have a true dry cycle (few counter top dishwashers do), and just cracking it open while the dishes are still warm let's them air dry fine. For those who are wondering what that 3 in 1 cycle is for, that's just if you want to use those detergent gel packs. We don't, and it still works great, though I did invest in some Jetdry since everyone else said it made a difference. Frankly, I can't tell, but I don't pay close attention. All in all, I am very satisfied and pleased with my purchase!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3789, "id": 185034, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 536, "len_tokens": 644, "text": "After trying to give Whirlpool a chance and using their new low-water cabrio system for a while, I found that just wasn't cutting it.\nSure, if you only have lightly soiled clothes it works fine. But when it comes to items with actual debris, forget it. My husband brings home work jeans that occasionally call for steel wool and gnashing of teeth. Watching those jeans get gently dribbled with a few cups of water and slowly spun in a circle was more than a little frustrating. I mentally made up for the washer's lack of agitation by just observing this cycle of non-cleaning happen three times in a row, only to pull the jeans out and find there was still sand and dirt on them that I could brush off with my hand. ANYWAY.\n\nAfter much research, I found my options for a washing machine that actually uses a tub of water and beats the clothes clean were limited. I took a chance on the Speed Queen not knowing for sure if it would pay off. Ultimately, I'm very happy with the washer. It's a shorter cycle than most (about 40 minutes tops with extra rinse), but I like that since I can start a load at night and switch it to the dryer before it gets super late. It still washes the clothes well, so I don't feel like the shorter time cuts corners on cleanliness. The amount of washing space is good too. I've run queen size comforters with room to spare, but I can also reach the clothes in the bottom of the washer without falling in.\n\nMy only beef with ordering this item was with the company itself and the shipping people they used. I placed my order on November 1st, and was given a delivery window between the 7th and the 13th. I didn't get my washer till the 26th, which was nearly 2 weeks after the latest delivery date promised. Trying to communicate with the seller was a hassle since there's no customer service phone number, only email, and responses were slow and vague. The shipping company was also difficult to work with, as they left automated messages that started half way through the recording, leaving out important information. They wouldn't call to schedule a day when I could be there to sign for it, they just told me when they'd be in my area, which was only once a week. I've had much better experiences with other sellers and shipping companies.\nWas it worth it? Well, I finally have my washer and I'm happy with its performance. Would I order from the people at HCcost again? Sorry, nope.\n\nUPDATE:\nIt's been almost 3 years now since I bought this washing machine, and I have to say I'm still impressed. This Speed Queen is clearly a hard-working woman. She has had to go through about a million loads of boys' jeans and my husband's work clothes that pick up nasty crawl-space gunk. She does not settle for seven-year-old-boy-in-a-hurry clean. No sir, she keeps the bar up at full on Mama-clean! And never once has she ever complained or broken down or taken a sick day. Now that is awesome. Seriously.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3790, "id": 185250, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 502, "len_tokens": 603, "text": "So you're fed up with the laundromat and you're thinking about (or have decided to) embark on the exciting adventure of compact appliance research. Here's a tip: if you are planning to get a portable washing machine, make sure there's room in your budget for one of these too.\n\nBefore I had a portable washer and compact dryer of my own, the neighbor across the way was nice enough to let me use her washer and outdoor clothes line (ok, so I used it without asking while she was out of town and I was watching her cats... she never pays me, so I helped myself to the machine). :) I discovered that day why I would never hang my clothes out to dry again, ever. My clothes were stiff enough to stand on their own, and as an extra bonus: little brown stains at every point where the clothespins had touched light colored fabric. All this plus it took forever and I had to skip a second load because it started to rain.\n\nThere are probably other options like having a constant draping of damp clothes spread on contraptions taking up precious space in my tiny apartment -- or maybe I could just wear damp clothes and hope they'd dry out by the time I get to work each day.\n\nCall me lazy, a wimp, un-green, but none of this is gonna work for me. I need tumble drying. I also know that I need electric, vented drying because I happen to wear JEANS once in a while, and those ventless \"evaporative\" units aren't going to finish the job in under 12 hours, if ever.\n\nThis thing cooks, at least as well as you'd hope. Sure it takes about twice as long as a conventional dryer and sure I wish it held more, but I also wish I lived in a bigger place. Until that time, this machine is my bestest friend. (BTW: You really must avoid the temptation to over load this machine or everything will come out very, very wrinkled... load it half full or less and everything comes out soft, fluffy & relatively wrinkle-free)\n\nAnother note: there exists some confusion over whether or not this dryer needs to be vented. It does.  Airborne lint is flammable, deposits a frustrating layer of filth over everything in your house and doesn't add much generally to the pleasantries of breathing. The moisture also makes your small apartment swampy. Thus far my inelegant solution has been to purchase a small length of dryer hose and the Lambro #240T 4\" Adjustable Window Plate. There must be a better solution out there somewhere.\n\nOh! AND: I feel that I should repeat what some other reviewer mentioned on one of these dryer pages: Get a washer like the Danby Twin that has a super high-speed spin dryer, or purchase a separate spin dryer; it makes all the difference in the world. Putting damp, slowly spun clothes in this dryer would probably not work well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3791, "id": 185838, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 527, "len_tokens": 669, "text": "Recently we needed to wash something in extra amount of water, so while checking out any information on the web I ran across a bunch of reviews of this washer.\n\nHmmmmm.  It seems that people either love this washing machine or were saddled with a lemon unit from the very start and in no time HATED this appliance.  As in all of life YMMV.\n\nOur experience falls somewhere in between the extremes represented by the other reviewers' experience.  It may be possible that the date and place of manufacture of both the washer mechanical and electronic parts make a lot of difference.  I also have a hunch a good first installation matters.\n\nWe have owned this model since June 2007.  We have never had any mechanical or electronic problems with it.  To help prospective purchasers, I would like to comment on the usual issues/concerns that I have seen in the various reviews.\n\nLocation:  Our unit sits on a wood-framed floor (not on a solid concrete slab) in a small laundry room.  It was leveled by Lowe's installing crew at the time it was purchased.\n\nVibration:  You bet there is vibration, especially if \"high speed\" selection is made.  One can feel it in the next room on the same level (where the computer sits on which I'm writing this review).  Does the vibration threaten to tear the house apart (as some reviewers have alleged was the case for their installation)?  Certainly not. I've had worse problems years ago with the old top-loading washer when the \"unbalanced load\", such as a blanket, would cause the machine to start jumping about!\n\nNoise:  During the draining of the machine the pump makes a noise, that some may perceive as alarmingly loud.  As I recall, all washers' pumps make a somewhat loud noise.\n\nCleaning:  I think it does a pretty good job.  As in all laundering, for any real stains, without pre-treating the affected areas, no washer/detergent combination out there will take care of the problem all by itself.  I do think our whites come out especially well.\n\nCapacity:  This is the \"Sport\" model, not as large as the regular Duet model.  We don't have a large family and since the unit uses reasonable amounts of water on every load, the size of the compartment has not been an issue.\n\nCycle Durations:  This has not been an issue, since we don't have a large throughput to contend with.\n\nFlexibility:  We would have liked to have a water quantity \"cheat\" button to occasionally wash stuff in more water.  Perhaps that can be done as a workaround by using the delicate/gentle cycle and putting in just a few items - not sure about that.\n\nValue:  I think we did well for the price we paid.  We also purchased it during a \"10%-Off Energy Star Models\" sale, after lots of researching of similar models.\n\nFor the above reasons I give it four stars out of five, though I really think of it as a four-and-a-half stars item.  To repeat, no repairs needed, no weird codes, all functions nominal nearly two-and-a-half years later.\n\nBTW, we have also had no complaints about the twin dryer unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3792, "id": 185846, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 525, "len_tokens": 675, "text": "We purchased the Duet Sport set on December 15, 2008.  We have been unhappy with it ever since.  I imagine that it gets clothes clean and does other things well but it failed to meet our minimum requirements and failed to perform adequately.  #1:  It is loud.  From my research, it was supposed to be one of the quietest but you really don't know what it's going to be like until you get it in your home.  Plus, getting a front loader for the first time, we  didn't know what to expect.  What we got was a machine that at various times in its cycles will interfere with normal conversation or viewing (we have a first level laundry room).  If it were just washing machine noises (whatever that means) maybe we could live with that.  But it squeaks, rattles and humms unacceptably.  #2:  It is violent.  It shakes in a frightening manner.  Now, we did level it, put pads under it, and had a service tech do the same and tried a variety of loads and spins.  So far, no real improvement. This leads to...  #3:  It walks or slides.  After the service tech was here and did some leveling and ran a test, it seemed fine.  We later found out that running a full load through a complete cycle brought about a sliding problem.  Here's a cautionary note:  The Tech mentioned that smooth floors, such as wood laminates (ours) can help the machine slide.  Who doesn't have smooth floors?  With #'s 2 and 3, I'm worried about the hoses loosening up.\n\n*  As I'm writing this, the machine is going through a spin cycle, getting ready for takeoff!\n\nAll three of these points create a machine that is taking up too much of our time.  We can't trust it to just wash clothes meaning we have to be aware of it and watch it.  I hate to admit it, but this was a mistake.\nBTW, I gave it 2 stars instead of 1 because I'm giving it more time for us to adjust to it.  If these problems still exist a month from now, and I have no reason to believe they won't, this machine gets 0 stars.\n\nUpdate:  After a month of ownership and two service tech visits, we pressured our dealer into taking this machine back (at a hefty 30% re-stocking fee).  We then took our store credit and purchased a Whirlpool Cabrio.  At present, we are very, VERY happy with the purchase.  All of the old complaints have vanished with this machine.  It does use more water, and we have to see about its durability over the long haul, but right now it's worked out great.  With only a slight exaggeration, you could put a house of cards on the machine at the start of a cycle, and it might just still be standing at the end... and it's quiet.  Plus, we took the pedestal off the old washer and put it on the dryer raising it to a point that it's very easy to empty.  We ended up spending a bit more than anticipated but worth every penny.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3793, "id": 186088, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 473, "len_tokens": 600, "text": "Very average product not impressed.  The assembly was not hard, but I noticed immediately the inside is tiny!  The inside of the door is even convex to add another 1.5 or so to fit another keg.  The point of having 2 taps is to tap 2 kegs simultaneously and there is barely room for 2 sixtels.  Yes, they fit but there is zero room left for any cans, growlers or bombers. My old kegerator could fit a half barrel with plenty of room left over  this will take getting used to.  DRIP TRAY  absolutely worthless.  It comes with a cheap plastic POS that hardly covers the distance between the 2 taps.  You will need to upgrade.  PARTS:  it does come with everything you need including a 5 lb CO2 tank which is nice, but they are all cheap.  The CO2 regulator is nothing more than a tee so if you only have 1 keg tapped you have to worry about CO2 leaking out of the other tap.  The clamps they give you for the CO2 and beer hoses are plastic and need to be upgraded to steel to ensure a fit.  TAPS/SANKES  here in lies my biggest complaint.  They provided 2 US Sankes (D Class) along with the kegerator that were both defective.  Neither tap actually worked to tap a US microbrew keg (and I tried 4 different brewers).  I had to get with their customer service (this is external to Amazon) and after weeks of back and forth sending pictures and treating me as if I don't know anything about brewing, they agreed to send 2 more provided I send the 2 back.  I did so and it took almost 3 week for the new ones to arrive and those also DO NOT WORK.  I had it with their company and went to Amazon and purchased another D coupler that works just fine to accompany one I already had.  I don't know what their major malfunction was but their couplers are garbage and don't even tap a keg  I had to pay additional cash to get a decent one.  FAUCETS  this was mentioned in other reviews but the faucets are cheap and seize up if you don't pull them every day.  Id recommend upgrading to Perlicks which are awesome.  CREAKING  every new appliance typically creaks and you hear knocks once in a while until settled but holy crap this unit sounds like machine gun fire.  Ive now owned the unit for 2 months and it still makes loud abrupt noise throughout the night when its quiet enough to hear it from the bar.  Extremely annoying, but being it weighs a hundred lbs and it so large I refuse to go through the nightmare of a return.  If this gets better I will amend my review.  I recommend you avoid this kegerator.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3794, "id": 188658, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 485, "len_tokens": 609, "text": "I've had the same white Whirlpool Princess Series 14 cubic ft. refrigerator for 27 years.  By the way, it's still working perfectly and I never once had to have it repaired!  My mother also has the same refrigerator, but in beige.  She never had to repair it either.  Yes, I needed more room as the years went on and my family grew...but I managed somehow, not wanting to discard an appliance in perfect working order.  However, an opportunity arose to \"upgrade\" to a larger-sized refrigerator with an icemaker and filtered water dispenser.  Upon the passing of a family member living in the first floor of my home, I renovated the apartment and relocated my old Whirlpool to that kitchen so I could treat myself to a new one.\n\nWith only 32-1/2 inches width available in my refrigerator opening among my kitchen cabinets, I found my options extremely limited if not non-existent to purchase a French-door refrigerator that would fit.  Following an extensive internet search, I found only two models available with French doors, a stainless steel finish and outside water dispensers that were small enough to install in my kitchen.  The other model was a Maytag, which appeared to be practically identical to this Whirlpool model.  Lucky for me, my nearby PC Richards Appliance Center had this model in stock.  Still, I wandered the appliance aisles in search of other options; none were to be found.  Most refrigerators of this kind are 32-5/8\" or 32-3/4 in width.  There is nothing smaller.  I was initially disappointed that the icemaker wasn't part of the front panel dispenser.  The icemaker only works inside the bottom freezer, depositing cubes into a large bucket in the top drawer.  However, I've had this refrigerator for two weeks and am quite happy with that configuration.  Everything works beautifully, so I was quite shocked to see the bleak reviews given in Amazon for this product.  I felt compelled to post a good review, as this product performs as intended.  I would like to tell prospective buyers, though, that you will have to take out one of the shelves on the right door if you want to store 1 liter bottles of soda or a gallon of milk on the door (there are three shelves on each door).  It runs very quietly and I have no complaints with this product.  I find it ironic that after 27 years, I'm with yet another Whirlpool refrigerator!  I only hope that this one endures as long as my original one.  I think it's wonderful that they cornered a market for a product that people really want that only have a small space for a refrigerator.  I have a stand up diner bowl apparatus nearby for my large dog at a right angle to my refrigerator, so the French door style works great for me as it avoids that area.  I am very happy with my purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3795, "id": 188760, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 491, "len_tokens": 620, "text": "I have been researching this and other induction ranges for months and pricing them as well from many different sources. This is my first induction range, a change from my 15 year old regular glass top range.\n\nI lucked out in finding a floor model locally, with  an additional 200 rebate, which made my range cost a total of 890, no delivery fees. It has not one scratch or dent, but it seems that induction has not caught on in the US yet and so it was just sitting there. It bakes, roasts and boils water quickly and evenly and with minimal heat escape into the kitchen, handy and desireable in SW Florida. Pasta boils consistently, no need to stir. My old range would take FOREVER to bring anything to a boil. I cannot believe how fast this cooktop is. The convection oven cooks quicker with less temp. Loads of presets and features, i absolutely love it!\n\nIt is very different though, from the standard electric glass cooktop. It is like comparing an ipad to an old pc. Tech savvy individuals will love it.  It is very easy to use, just be sure you purchase the proper cookware. I bought circulon, non stick with flat bottoms and straight sides, and made sure that a magnet stuck tight before purchase.\n\nAlso, i just used the aqua lift to clean it due to a pizza mishap and it worked great, no chemicals. My only real concern is it is made in USA and hope it holds up. I did purchase a 5 yr plan, but time will tell.\n\nUPDATE: made 2 roast chickens at once in convection roast mode. They turned out perfectly, so much better than I normally make.  Have made many casseroles with convection settings and this oven really has uniform temps, resulting in even browning on top, unlike my old range that produced spotty, uneven browning and burnt edges.  The stovetop continues to astound with fast and even heating.  Again too, love the energy efficiency and the fact that it does not heat the entire house!  Am going to try breads, muffins and cakes soon and will update later.\n\nUPDATE: have made cakes and pies, breads and oven is superior in convection bake mode. Even browning and excellent results. Continues to amaze, i sure hope it lasts!  I cannot go back to normal elec range ever.\n\nUPDATE, JAN 2014:  I will never cook on regular again. Some tips with this range....Buy a quality oven liner, it well worth investment.  Also, you CAN store pots on the cooktop, just NOT ON THE CONTROL panel PORTION. It will beep otherwise. Also, you can turn off all sounds, which I recommend. Also, the small burners on the front will absolutely cook just as a large burner.....no worries about having to match  the burners size to pot. Love it, no comparison  to coil or normal electric top!!! Everything I cook is so much better.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3796, "id": 188848, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 550, "len_tokens": 673, "text": "I have run about 2-3 loads through this dishwasher every day since purchasing it a few weeks ago. Probably about the best money I have ever spent on a home related good. Ultimately I made it only 2 years in apartment living before caving to get this. The first was my senior year of college, and the second was last year. I grew up always having a dishwasher so to not have one was painful. I also find an almost bizarrely enormous sense of satisfaction loading up this little dishwasher, squirting a little Cascade gel in, and running it. It has taken me these few weeks to get loading it figured out correctly. I have found that bowls (larger ones anyways) really only fit well standing upright in the section designed for plates, so it's kindof a bowls load or a plates load type of deal. And when you need to wash some 'tupperware' type plastic containers, fuhgedaboudit. Those either go in 1 or 2 pieces with lids amongst a load of other more orderly items, or just scattered about on their own.\n\nSeriously though, the amount of silverware my wife and I go through is almost insane. I'd say we rotate our entire 12-piece set about once every 2 to 3 days; not the big spoons of course though. Those only get used for soup. So when I think back to doing that all manually, it makes my hands feel clammy and dry like they used to get after spending hours in that hot soapy water.\n\nNow I get to listen to the little dishwasher that could wrshump --- wrshump --- wrshump in an oh-so-relaxing cadence while I relax and ponder how the 3.8 gallons (much less than I would have used manually) and .31 kWh will only cost me a few pennies. Isn't technology marvelous?\n\nMy parents own a Bosch 800 series washer. Yes those are so dang quiet that you can barely hear it run. But I'm serious when I say that this washer is just about everything the Bosch is, just with about 1/3 of the space inside. It doesn't have all the crazy control buttons, but once you set it to your 'normal' setting, all anyone does is load it up and push Start anyways! And it is actually pretty quiet too, assuming you don't load something in such a way that it directs the water spray straight onto the door (or load a giant 'tupperware' item right next to the door, as those (larger) plastic items tend to make more noise from the water jet).\n\nAs for the packaging. Wow. The packaging was designed to withstand CRAZY, like, delivery truck rolled over type accidents or something. It was double boxed, with the internal box suspended by foam inserts at all corners of the outer box. And the washer itself was suspended in the inner box by cardboard pieces at the corners. Dang son. I carried it up the (one) flight of stairs to our apartment and I actually strained my back just a bit. It is heavy, but more than that, awkwardly huge due to the intense packaging, so you end up with a huge lever arm pulling down on you. Seriously, get your friend to help you bring it in your place.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3797, "id": 189307, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 467, "len_tokens": 616, "text": "Man oh MAN do I wish these worked fully!\n\nThe Everspring Z-wave wireless temperature humidity sensor is built like a tank.  It has some serious heft behind it; feels like you stacked three hockey pucks in your hand.  The buttons feel really good, and the display is large and easy to read from the right angle.  (Pretty much you have to be looking down on the unit from above, so if it's mounted higher than your eyes you're not going to see anything.)\n\nThe temperature function was dead on with both units I received.  Actually the temperature resolution was better than I can normally measure without breaking out a thermocouple, and I just didn't care that much.  In other words, well under 1F degree of accuracy, which is great!...\n\n...but the relative humidity readings on these are *absolutely BONKERS!*  There's a well known test called the salt test (google it) where you make a known solution of salt and water, then stick your measuring device (or devices) into an air sealed environment with the salt solution for 24 hours, and they should read 75% RH.  (Cigar afficianados swear by this test to calibrate the hygrometers for their humidors, apparently.)  I figure if it's a test the cigar guys swear by for things that will be ruined by too much or too little humidity, then it has to be a reliable test.  So I ran a salt test on one of these, and included in the bag my non-zwave hygrometer for reference.  After 24 hours, my hygrometer was reading 74% RH (not bad!), while the everspring was reading 90% RH (the maximum value)!!  So I took out the salt pack and threw in some dessicant packs and came back after another 24 hours, my non-zwave hygrometer was reading about 30% RH while the everspring was reading almost 60% RH!\n\nSo I contacted The Smartest House and they were >>>extremely<<< gracious and easy to work with -- sixteen million stars for The Smartest House, and they shipped me another unit.  Unfortunately the second unit tested near identically to the first one with the salt test, completely pegging at maximum RH% when it should only be reading 75% RH.\n\nSo while I really *really* wanted to like this unit, I can't keep it nor can I recommend it.  At $40, it makes one heck of an expensive temperature probe since the RH% implementation is completely broken on the two units I received.  And since other units (passive infrared from monoprice) do temperature just as well, it makes no sense to keep this one around at all.\n\nOn the bright side, it integrates easily with a Vera Edge, but with broken RH% it's all for naught.  Pity, I really WANTED to like these and buy a few of them!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3798, "id": 190886, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 336, "len_tokens": 631, "text": "There is nothing like the feeling of when a semi-truck pulls up in front of your house to deliver cool stuff like this. The neighbors watching with curiousity and envy and just being plain nosey. Whatta rush!\n\nWe received the dryer within three weeks via JB Hunt. Since we are out here in the middle of nowhere land in Hee Haw America, it is expected.\n\nGary, the driver was nothing but awesome. He even let my boy climb up in the truck and blow the horn a few times. He absolutely loved that and I'm sure the neighbors did too! He laid on that horn pretty good.\n\nThis dryer is perfect for our needs. We don't require alot of bells and whistles on our appliances. Just good old fashioned, simplistic and fully functional items for us please. We had the Kenmore Elite HE3 units... what overpriced, overly complexed garbage they were. Lesson learned.\n\nWhen I say this is a simple dryer, I meant it. It has just 3 temperature settings and 11 different cycles...\n\n1. Air - No Heat\n2. Low Heat\n3. High Heat\n\nIt was completely unexpected, but it came with a dryer vent kit and a gas line kit. That was extra nice.\n\nI did notice that the pricing on this unit fluxuates quite a bit, like the stock market. Since we ordered this unit, the price had dropped and risen again. Just an observation, nothing else.\n\nYou can get the mates to this dryer unit&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Amana-3-4-cu-ft-Top-Load-Washer-with-Sprekle-Porcelain-wash-basket-NTW4600YQ-White/dp/B007P4WCP0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Amana 3.4 cu. ft. Top-Load Washer with Sprekle Porcelain wash basket, NTW4600YQ, White</a>&nbsp;or the&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Amana-3-4-cu-ft-Top-Load-Washer-with-Dual-Action-Agitator-Amana-3-4-cu-ft-Top-Load-Washer-with-Dual-Action-Agitator-NTW4700YQ-White/dp/B007P4WCW8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Amana 3.4 cu. ft. Top-Load Washer with Dual Action Agitator, Amana 3.4 cu. ft. Top-Load Washer with Dual Action Agitator, NTW4700YQ, White</a>&nbsp;which is currently cheaper and contains more options.\n\nThis is a very good floor model/side-by-side dryer and definitely worth considering if you just want simplicity in your life, like us.\n\nOverall, I'm just excited about this dryer.\nIt's New...\nIt's Simple To Use...\nand It's Mine!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3799, "id": 190888, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 583, "len_tokens": 687, "text": "The Amana 6.5 cu. Ft. Traditional Gas Dryer is definitely toward the lower end of gas dryers available. I currently own a front loading, higher-end, Amana washer and have been very pleased with it. Amana is a good, reliable brand.\n\nSize:\n- This dryer is slightly smaller than most standard (higher-end) dryers out there (check out the specs listed under Product Description)\n- As I mentioned, I currently own a front loading, Amana washer that holds a good amount of clothes. I was initially concerned that the loads would be too large for the dryer to dry, but I was pleased when all the clothes fit into the dryer.\n\nLook:\n- I noticed that I struggle with opening the door. I don't know if it's just the luck of the draw or if other people have a problem with the door, but the handle is awkward and small. I can't quite get my hand in the opening to pull so I often have to use both hands. The door is also very stiff, I'm hoping that this is just because it's new and will loosen up over time.\n- One thing I did like about the door is that you can change it from opening to the right, to it opening to the left (I had to do this because of the location and position of my washer). The manual came with instructions for changing the side that the door is attached to. It was not difficult to do.\n- The dryer is stark white with 2 buttons; one is the dryer setting nob (which has a navy blue color for the different settings) and a button for \"start\". There is no end-of-cycle chime/notification.\n- The lint trap is located on the top right of the dryer. This is also very stiff and I sometimes struggle with pulling it out of the dryer as well as placing it back in however, I'm hoping that this too will become easier with use.\n\nSettings:\n- This dryer comes with 11 different cycles with 3 temperature settings (air-no heat, low heat, and high heat). My favorite setting so far is the Automatic Dry: Low Heat. I found this to be the most accurate and it is very delicate for those clothing items that you'd like to dry slowly and gently as to avoid shrinking. I was not that impressed with the Timed Dry setting. I set a large load of towels for 50 minutes and for some reason, the towels were not dry when I went to get them. I prefer the automatic settings because I feel they do the best job of drying your clothes until they are ready to come out- there's no worry of going to get your clothes and them still being wet.\n- I enjoyed how quiet this dryer is. My last dryer was noticeably louder while it ran. Because of this, I sometimes forget to go downstairs and get my clothes!\n\nOverall:\n- I think this is an excellent-basic dryer. It has many options/dry settings, it has a good drum size, it is quiet while drying your clothes, and it has a reversible door that is easy to change/install.\n- I wish it did have an end of cycle chime/notification and an outward door (opening top to bottom).\n\nAll in all, I recommend this Amana dryer for those looking for a good quality, and above-economy dryer but not wanting to spend too much for a high-end dryer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3800, "id": 191071, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 550, "len_tokens": 641, "text": "I'm hoping I'll be able to change this review after I get in contact with the company for a new one.\n\n***\nSummary:\nMaybe this is rare. Maybe just my unit even. My fan worked perfectly for a couple months into the winter. I really got used to it moving the air around the house without electricity and managing to stay almost silent. Unfortunately the quiet factor went out the window when I needed to move it to a new spot. In the process of rotating it a few times, gently setting it down, picking it back up and putting it in its old spot the blades loosened along the neck. It now sounds like someone banging pots together extremely fast if it is not at full speed and wakes me up :(\n***\n\nI liked this fan...heck, I LOVED it at first. I even got one for my neighbors as a present! Theirs even works on a very old soapstone stove. But it does work best with metal contact. Not necessarily making modern stoves better for the fan - the higher the temp, the more noticeable the noise\n\nEverything was going good with my fan. I read complaints that it didn't work at all - but eventually realized once I had the fan myself that these people either had a soapstone stove or something too insulated to transfer heat to the fan. I highly doubt more than 1 in 10000 of these is so defective it won't start. It does start quickly in my stove, even over the draft intake part of it, starting up at barely 150 degrees as read by a stick on\nthermometer.\n\nHere's when everything went to heck. My steam pot that I also bought here on amazon arrived and I needed to make room for it and hopefully get the fan to move the steam into our dry living room.\n\nI picked up the fan (it was not moving from heat, mind you) and set it over on its side. When I moved it to its new spot I noticed something subtle - the blade mechanism was able to move just a smidgen along the neck connecting it to the thermal mechanism. I didn't think anything of it at all. That is until I got a fire going. The normally near silent fan was now getting up to speed with an audible CLANK ... CLANK ... CLANK increasing in speed as it got hotter. When it reached peak speed, it wasn't as noticeable, but still above my tolerance level for what I had first unboxed.\n\nNow I get woken up if I'm using the fan on the stove and it cools below a certain speed, which is unbearable. At the same time, some nights I'd still rather \"try\" to use it because it keeps the hot air from stagnating around the stove where I sleep. But in summary, I'm completely heartbroken that something I thought was sturdy and that I loved so much quit on me. It can't be that fragile, right?\nI'm hoping for answers. I did not knock it over, have it drop, etc - it's completely intact and looks no different from fresh out of the box. I simply set it down on its back and it was rendered virtually unusable.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3801, "id": 191142, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 533, "len_tokens": 605, "text": "I did a lot of research on range hoods before deciding to buy this one. The build quality is true to their YouTube videos, which poke fun at the quality of other similar looking range hoods, and prompted my extensive Google searching. I couldn't find a more powerful hood at the advertised sound level anywhere near this price point.\n\nAlthough it is not recommended by the manufacturer, I was able to install it by myself. The instructions make you put the mounting plate on the hood before you put it against the wall to make the marks for your drill holes, but I did that with just the mounting plate, which made a one man install very easy. Also, the manufacturer doesn't account for if you have tile behind the hood, so make sure you have some good toggle strap anchors for the body of the hood (pending you have no studs where the mounting plate screws will go), and some regular wall anchors for the top chimney bracket. The instructions to install are adequate, but could be better. They didn't make any mention of the bottom chimney bracket until it was time to put the chimney up, nor did they give good instructions on the order the parts at the bottom of the chimney need to go in. Through a bit of trial and error, I think the order from bottom up is: bottom chimney bracket, black square rubber gasket (which is mentioned nowhere), and then air diverter. The bottom chimney holes were not perfect as other reviewers have mentioned, and I too had the clamp that holds the power cord be in the way of the bottom chimney bracket fully seating itself. I think it would have been fine to just remove the clamp, but I shaved mine enough to allow the bracket to slide all the way on. I also opted for a rigid pipe between the air diverter and my connection to the exhaust pipe rather than their flexible pipe, but that was personal preference.\n\nPerformance is great. What I find interesting is that it barely gets louder as you go through the speeds, but you can definitely tell that it is moving more air. The 300 CFM microwave range hood we had before was louder and did way less. My wife loves that she can cook the greasiest of things and her clothes don't smell like it afterwards. I spilled some flour in the bread machine cavity that started burning when the bread started baking about 15 ft away, and the fan cleared the room quickly. The lights are great, though I wish they matched the LED under cabinet lighting I installed, which has a warmer (yellower) look, or vise versa. The remote is gimmicky, but it works fine. I haven't tried the fan timer yet, but it sounds very useful. My only complaint is that there is no way to illuminate the panel to see the clock other than putting it in automatic mode, and my automatic mode seems to come on randomly sometimes. I may call the manufacturer about that.\n\nAll in all, I am very satisfied with the hood and would recommend it to others.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3802, "id": 191734, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 542, "len_tokens": 696, "text": "Pros.  My third counter-top ice-maker--all similarly priced.  My first EdgeStar.  Every day, all day use.  First one made tubular, opaque ice, small amounts, ice melted rapidly, device lasted about 1 1/2 yrs and stopped functioning.  Second unit similar to EdgeStar, made clear ice, came out in almost solid blocks, very difficult to break apart, took about 45 mins or longer to make first batch each day, loud, and almost impossible to get into crevices to clean.  It, too, lasted about 1 1/2 yrs and began leaking what looked like freon into the water.  Have had the EdgeStar for a few months.  Very quiet.  Produces beautifully clear ice, large batches, sheets break apart very easily, only takes a few minutes for each batch, and entire bin is over-flowing in very short amount of time.  More exposed areas (fewer inaccessible crevices) for easier thorough cleaning than with the two prior ice-makers.  Very helpful online video covering main points of unit's operation--but could be a little more detailed.  At this point, I'm extremely happy with it.  Would recommend.\nCons.  A thick protective coating is not just wrapped around the assembled unit.  Unit is assembled with the coating already on the separate pieces, which makes it almost impossible to remove.  In other words, the screws, outer edges, etc., are all assembled on top of the tough plastic coating.  The coating is stuck in between all the seams.  Especially difficult to remove from the bottom of the unit, since you can't tip it on its side.  It takes two people to get the stuff off--one person holding the unit over the edge of the counter, and a second person getting underneath to remove.  When we opened the box, a couple of screws were just floating around loose in the bottom.  At least half of the screws in the bottom of the unit were wiggling loosely, and could not be tightened, as they were totally stripped out.  This is concerning, but the few functioning screws holding the bottom on seem to be adequate to do the job.  (If I had picked the unit up from a local store, I would have returned it, and insisted on a replacement with a securely attached bottom.  EdgeStar's return policy would have entailed me paying for shipping and not sure I would have ended up with anything better.  Not happy with that situation, but seemed too much of a hassle to deal with.)  Access to water delivery pipe poorly designed.  Instructed to remove pipe for regular cleaning.  Not enough space at either end to maneuver pipe out of its holder.  I noticed in the video that it presented a problem even to the one giving the demonstration.  They should correct the problem.  I did have the symbol light up that unit needed cleaning--shortly after I had cleaned it and filled with fresh water.  I called for assistance/clarification because the alert symbol kept flashing.  He asked me for the model number and then said to override it by holding the timer button down for a few seconds and symbol should go away.  Appears the symbol to clean is not really connected to anything detecting the need to clean.  Makes it difficult to determine if the unit is registering something that actually requires attention.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3803, "id": 191745, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 514, "len_tokens": 626, "text": "I just received the ice maker, and saw the exterior. The front was stainless steel and the sides were cream colored plastic that was peeling. My first thought was \"Uh, oh... this is going back!\" Then I realized that the machine's exterior was entirely made out of solid stainless steel and the plastic was just a protective coating so that it did not get scratched during production and shipping.\n\nAnd that shipping was SUPER FAST, by the way!  Ordered Sunday, received Tuesday.  Amazon Prime speed, but merely listed as \"free shipping\".\n\nBack to the body of the ice maker.  It was annoying to have to peel off the protective coating - and I didn't quite get all of it off, but many new appliances come that way.  Underneath the plastic, it looked like some scratches had made it on the machine, but I was able to rub them away with my index finger.\n\nI thought the unit didn't come with instructions, but my son had \"helped\" me unpack the unit, and I eventually did find the instructions and warrantee card.\n\nWe are very excited to get started, but the instructions say that the machine has to sit upright for 2 hours before you start it so that the coolant can settle into place.  I have cleaned the machine and the removable water pipe and plan to fill the tank with water and vinegar.  Another reviewer said that it took five days for the vinegar taste to cycle through, but I am doing what is listed as routine maintenance, and the instructions with my machine say:\n\n1. Take out the basket.\n2. Add a mild cleaning solution mixture to the water reservoir.  Use a 10:1 ratio of water to either white vinegar or lemon juice.\n3. Run the ice maker to make a couple of batches of ice (at least 2).  Discard the ice.\n4. Drain the cleaning solution from the water reservoir. (page 2 shows you where the drain is)\n5. Remove the water line from above the evaporator and clean and rinse it out.\n6. Add fresh water to the water reservoir up to the water level mark.\n7. Run the ice maker to make a few batches of ice.  Discard the ice.\n8. Drain the water.\n9. Add fresh water to the water reservoir to make ice, or dry the interior and exterior with a clean soft cloth to store the machine.\n10. The ice scoop should be washed regularly.  Wash it just like any other utensil.\n\nIt feels like this is taking forever, but according to the clock, I have only been waiting ten minutes since I added the water and turned the machine on.  It does make a hum...  Hey!  It can do dual duty as a white noise machine, too!  ;-)\n\nI followed the instructions for maintenance and the machine is now making ice!  It works!  What more can I say?\n\nOh... I can say one more thing.  I did buy the 3 year extended warrantee.  It is an expensive toy.  I would like it to last!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3804, "id": 191881, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 451, "len_tokens": 627, "text": "Humidity is an issue living near the Gulf of Mexico.  My air conditioner and dehumidifier were not getting the relative humidity (Rh) down to 30%.  Storage in pelican cases required drying out my silica gel packs about every other month to keep the humidity in case below 40%Rh. Of course, if I never opened them, the humidity and silica would not require as much maintenance. So I thought I would give a dry cabinet a try.  They all seem to be sold out of Southeast Asia (Taiwan and China).  This one was advertised as a product by TWAIPO.  AIPO is the manufacturer of the dry boxes this supplier sells.  The dry box delivered has the brandname Abmcdc.  It has the same product code so I think it is the same.\nThe item has two shelves made of pierced thick plastic.  Two removable linings for the shelves are provided: flat grey foam and a sculpted foam for lenses.  There is an additional piece of foam that is for the base of the cabinet.  The item comes with instructions but they are mostly useless unless you can read what I think is Chinese.  Possibly something I need to learn for the future.\nThe item arrived in via USPS in a sturdy cardboard box with straps. Packed well, the movement from Chaoyang District, Beijing China caused the shelves to shift.  This resulted in minor breakage of the front corners of the shelves.  Given the great distance that the item traveled and the difficulty in finding dry boxes in the US, I decided to superglue the pieces.  An AC powerpack completed the shipment.\nOperation is simple and very similar to operating a digital clock.  You hold the set button down until it flashes, then you use the up or down arrows to set the target Rh%.  The up arrow serves two other purposes: on switch for the LED strip inside the case and display of the temperature in centigrade.  I cannot figure out if there is a way to change it to fahrenheit.  Again, something I will need to learn in the future with my Chinese.  It comes with a set of two keys for locking the door.  Since the front is glass, I see little security in locking it.  The door seals well with a vinyl/magnetic strip similar to a refridgerator.  Operation is silent so I placed a humidity indicator card&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Cobalt-Free-Humidity-Indicator-Card-6-Dot-Pack-of-3/dp/B00967JR5M/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Cobalt Free Humidity Indicator Card, 6 Dot, Pack of 3</a>&nbsp;to confirm the displayed Rh.  The indicator cards change with the Rh displayed on the panel.  When it is 90% in the room, my cameras and lenses are at 38% or lower.  I am pleased and may consider buying another.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3805, "id": 192335, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 485, "len_tokens": 609, "text": "I purchased this Made in the USA filter for my nice new expensive Samsung fridge as the filter that came with it made the decent tasting tap water taste like plastic no matter how many gallons I ran through it.  Enter this filter.  I followed instructions.  It fits where the old filter fit.  However, the seal (or lack thereof) is absolute rubbish.  Turned water back on and water gushed out all over the floor.  Got mess cleaned up with a couple rolls of paper towels and pulled filter and examined the ring.  It was loose, evidently providing for something other than a watertight seal.  I looked at the old Samsung filter- it was nice and snug, as such a ring should be... in order to create a water-tight seal.  I just want a filter that fits and doesn't make my water taste like plastic or pour water everywhere out of a fridge that was over a thousand dollars!  Is that too much to ask?  Evidently so!\n\nI hope they honor their 90 day unconditional money back guarantee.  I will follow up.\n\nFollow-up. 18 Oct 2012  The company that makes these wrote me back and said unfortunately it's a new product and a shipment of the filters went out before the problem was corrected.  They are sending a new filter to me today.  I added a star for their fast and responsive customer service.  After the new filter gets here and installed, I'll update the review again.  Hopefully they recall the filters from the distributors before anyone else winds up soaked. (if you'll pardon the pun).\n\nFollow-up 30 Oct 2012  I forgot I had an additional filter on order with Amazon (as they were out of stock when I initially ordered from another seller).  I figured when it shipped, I'd have a back-up.  It arrived before the replacement and it too had a loose o-ring.  I was hesitant to install it given that fact, so wrote the company.  They were surprised to hear I got not 1, but 2 messed up filters.  At that point I was ready to give up- but true to their word, the new filter arrived, and they sent me a spare o-ring.  I haven't opened the new one yet, as I popped a snug o-ring on the filter.  The water is great, and doesn't taste like plastic.\n\nBecause of the great customer service, the refreshing non-plastic flavored water, some faith in humanity has been restored, and thus they are getting a full 5 stars.  Granted, they should have caught this before they shipped, and recalled them so no more faulty products went out, but we're only human, and they worked hard to fix the problem- and now that it's right, I want them, a US business, to stick around selling more affordable and higher quality filters!  I do not ever want to go back to a foreign plastic-tasting-water filter.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3806, "id": 193270, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 474, "len_tokens": 634, "text": "I sold this range hood on crag's list 1 week after i bought it.  Got major buyers remorse.  Why i was excited to buy it:\nPros\n1) Professional looking baffle filters.\n2) Low price for baffle filter hood.\n3) Great ratings on Amazon\n4) 8\" duct included with duct tape.\n\nCons(red flags before buying)\n1) It comes with a remote??: Why exactly?  Seems odd for a hood.  I guess so that if something catches fire, you don't have to leave the living room to turn the fan on high? maybe? I don't know...\n2) Bright blue display:  For me personally, the stainless steel hood with the lights turned on is the center piece of the kitchen.  The bright blue display was for me, very distracting/annoying to look at.  Especially if you designed a rustic kitchen.\n3) Noise: Originally I thought 900 cfm would be a great feature, but the low speed is louder than the high speed, on the cheepo model I replaced which was maybe 175-200 cfm max and around 100cfm low.  I like to watch TV while cooking, so the sound level on low was not acceptable.  900 cfm is unbearable.  If you are a pro with 4 burners going, maybe a good idea.\n4) touch screen: When its dark I want to touch knobs or switches.  Half the time i was looking for the light button in the dark, i turned the fan to high speed.  Extremely annoying. The display tells you completely useless information-the fan speed-\"F1,F2,F3,F4\" as if you can't hear what speed its on.  The design is just very goofy/odd. Or is the F1,2,3,4 there to indicate the sound of an F4 hurricane?\n5) No dimming button for the light: I like the light on low as a night light, but not an option here.\n6) Off brand with no manufacturer phone number to call.\n7) Does not come with backdraft damper.  (8\" duct if you were wondering)\n\nIt seems this is marketed to people who like flashy things.  If that is you, this is a PERFECT unit for you.  I prefer to let form follow functionality, I prefer simplicity and something to accent a beautiful kitchen remodel in stead of overpowering it.  So i found a unit that looks very similar for about the same price, but i had to give up that cool looking baffle filter.  Turns out, i don't miss it.  I'm extremely happy with my high and low  light knob, 400cfm variable speed(completely AWESOME) quiet fan with variable speed knob and switch.  And no bright blue lights.\n\nIn terms of power, YES the 900 cfm is very powerful.  the baffles and stainless steel curved edge look very nice.  Just saying think about what is really important before you decide and lose a $100 like it did.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3807, "id": 194219, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 541, "len_tokens": 626, "text": "First off, I ordered this just before noon on Friday and needed it asap (we have 7 people in this household so being without a dryer is a nightmare even with a coin-op dry cleaner down the road) so I ordered next day shipping... yes, Saturday shipping. Not only did Fed-Ex have it literally in my hands by 815am, the driver wished me a great dryer day with a good smile and laugh. Not normally what I expect from any delivery service nowadays. The product was fulfilled by Amazon (I am a prime member so I try to use Amazon Fulfilment most of the time) and I was very glad I chose to have it fulfilled by Amazon. As to the switch, it worked like a charm. An easy slip into the door frame so that the button would be facing the closing door and it snapped right into place. My dryer is an old Amana Distinction with 2 wires (a grey and a white). For those of us who have spent the past two days trying to figure out where the wires go, the White Wire goes to CM (also known as Common or Ground). The Grey Wire goes to NO(also called Normally Open). The NC (normally closed) prong is smaller than the NO and is the center prong between the NO and CM prongs. With the older model dryers you sometimes find that the spade clip on the end of your grey wire will fit the NC but not the larger NO prong. Luckily, this product does come with two extra spade clips. Just use wire cutters/crimpers to cut the end of the grey wire just below the base of the spade already on it and then trim some of the grey cover off of the wire so that you see pure wire (Please Unplug the Dryer before you begin working on anything internally even if you are just taking the door off to take a look at what you might have to deal with before jumping in to work on it). After you have pure wire, twist the wire a bit with you fingers so that the threads will not separate when you now place the new spade clip onto the wire. If you look into the spade clip before putting it onto the wire you'll see a small tube, that's what you want your twisted wire to go into. After the wire is in the spade clip, use the crimper or even a good pair of plyers to apply pressure below and above the clip base so that the wire won't come back out of the clip. ***If you place the grey wire onto the NC prong, the dryer tub will only turn when the door is (get this:) Open.***This is dangerous. It is funny to see honestly but none of us need a living being or non-living material thrown into a moving high speed dryer tub while the door is open. It can easily hurt someone, so please be aware. I should know because I did it today. My father always told me when you learn a good lesson, pass it on. Good luck with your projects, readers; and be safe.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3808, "id": 194431, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 468, "len_tokens": 628, "text": "This review is for the received ERP410 from Exact Replacement Parts, 1855 Wallace Ave\nSt. Charles IL 60174 (url: er.parts) and not the RCO410 from Sealed Unit Parts Co. Inc., 2230 Landmark Pl, Manasquan, NJ.\nERP410\nThis is about  6.3\" X 2.1\" and the leads are about 9\" so make sure you have space and a plan.\nLooks and works exactly like the RCO410 that was ordered. Maybe it's out of the same factory in China? The key difference is that this ERP410  is not UL recognized, where the SUPCO device is: MINUS a Star.\n\nThis is just a high-current over-load switch + PTC thermistor + Capacitor. There is no provision for motor temperature detection. Though this does have an overload switch it is likely much larger than what the compressors designers envisaged. For those reasons don't give up your existing overload/Thermal protector.\nNerdy stuff: Usually the failure of the both factory and these are from contacts in the PTC failing, resulting in non-uniform thermal stresses which fracture the barium titanate disk. Once that happens, the motor won't start and the thermal over-load switch cycles, heating the motor and thawing the food just a bit faster than if it were unplugged.\n\nHint 1: You can get an idea if your compressor is cooked by checking the coil resistances (see Youtube), and the resistance to the case (ground) should be infinity. If you have an insulation-resistance tester, even better.\nHint 2: Sometimes it's possible to disassemble the broken PTC, clean and tension the contacts and reassemble with the largest piece of disk so you have some time: This can last hours or days---or not at all.\nHint 3: Since these devices cannot sense the compressor's temperature and has a trip current that's probably much greater than the design intent of your compressor, it's best to connect this devices COMMON wire to your existing overload switch, which stays on the compressor. In my case I needed to crimp a 1/4\" on to the COMMON lead of the device.\n\nLike Supco, the wire that most workers would consider the input-side NEUTRAL is black, just like LINE. Easy enough to sort with an ohmmeter, if you are the fastidious sort. NEUTRAL is the side that has continuity with RUN.\n  Terminals are well crimped and they used 105 C, 600 V rated AWM wire. Though they hold to the compressor pins well, I prefer to add a couple layers of 105 C rated electrical tape over them, just in case. It comes with wire nuts for line and neutral and, since there may be some vibration, I prefer to tape over these too. There is a mounting tab suitable for a small Ty-Rap or a #4 or #5 screw but it can be easily drilled with a 9/64 bit for a #6 screw.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3809, "id": 194615, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 568, "len_tokens": 648, "text": "I bought a condo and it has a Frigidaire refrigerator, not the prettiest thing but it worked perfectly. One day I came home from work with some ice cream and when I opened the freezer it obviously wasn't cold and the ice was almost completely melted, and the fridge part was warm, too. Figures that it happened 4 days after I had went shopping and stocked up on a bunch of frozen stuff.\n\nI looked at the tag inside and it said it was manufactured in 2003, so it was about 14 years old. I looked online and saw that a replacement motor on it was about $300 for the part alone, so I figured Id just buy a new one. But while looking all this up I came upon websites saying that its rarely the motor that goes out, but the more often its the capacitor or start switch, and its an easy, inexpensive fix. That made me look into things deeper. I read websites and watched YouTube videos and somewhere along the way found a link to this item. For less than $10 and free 2-day shipping with Prime, definitely worth a try before shelling out the cash for a new fridge.\n\nAfter I got the part I pulled my fridge out, unplugged it and took a look. I don't really have any experience doing work like this, but at my old condo we had a brand new GE Profile fridge and over 10 years we had repaired at least 3 times at about $200 each repair. The mechanicals of my Frigidaire looked nothing like the videos I had seen. Most of them seemed to have the capacitor plugged into the motor with the start switch connected to it, but mind had the start switch connected further inside the fridge. Still, since I was going to get a new fridge if this didn't work I figured what did I have to lose by trying?? So I did made my best guess and unhooked the start switch then pulled out the capacitor. Sure enough, just like the internet said when I shook the capacitor, I could hear the broken pieces inside rattling around. It took me about ten minutes to hook up the wires to the Supco all in one. I took a good look at everything to make sure all the connections looked good, then I plugged her in, went around front and turned the fridge to cold, and she started purring like a kitten. A few seconds later I could feel cold air blowing in both the fridge and freezer. It worked!!\n\nSome websites and videos said this should only be a temporary fix until you get the expensive replacement parts, but other said its fine to keep it permanently, so thats what Im doing. Three weeks in its still working perfectly. I cant believe how inexpensive and easy it was to fix my own fridge! Ive been telling friends and family about it ever since. I kind of hope that someone elses fridge will break so I can look like a hero when I fix it for them. :-) Anyway, I definitely recommend this part and also that you watch videos and read websites because that helped me in a big way, both in confidence and seeing how different brands of fridge look different inside. Save your money and fix it yourself with this!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3810, "id": 194943, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 486, "len_tokens": 602, "text": "This Supco RCO410 start capacitor kit solved my \"refrigerator not getting cold\" problem and at a fraction of the cost of the original replacement unit,(under $15 from Amazon), not to mention the cost if I would have had a repairman come out to my house.  Start by removing the refrigerator electrical cord from the wall and remove the bottom cover where the compressor is located.  Assuming that the cutout relay/capacitor assembly to your compressor is bad (mine had a bad smell), remove and discard the old unit assembly after cutting the power wires to the unit.  Mine were the red and white wires but yours may be different.  In any case, these two cut wires bring the 120 VAC to the red and black wires of the start capacitor unit.  Strip the insulation back on the two cut wires and hook them up to the pre-stripped red and black wires of the start kit capacitor using the provided wire nuts.  It does not matter which of the pre-stripped red & black wires from the capacitor unit are connected to the power wires cut from the old relay, because AC does not care about polarity.  This leaves 3 wires of the start kit capacitor remaining to be hooked up to the compressor.  Make sure that you identify the compressor pins correctly.  There are 3 pins coming out of the compressor.  Two of the pins should have a resistance of around 10 ohms between each other, therefore the remaining pin is the \"common\".  The remaining 3 wires of the capacitor unit has spade lugs that will easily attach to the compressor pins.  The black wire spade lug of the capacitor goes to the common pin on the compressor.  The measured resistance between the common and the other 2 pins on the compressor should be approximately 6 ohms and 4 ohms respectively.  The white wire spade lug from the capacitor goes to the pin measuring 6 ohms (start winding) and the red wire spade lug goes to the pin measuring 4 ohms (run winding).  Test repair by plugging in the refrigerator to see if the compressor is running. Allow about 15 minutes or so to make sure that the refrigerator is becoming cold, then unplug refrigerator wall plug, secure capacitor assembly such as with a nylon tie strap, install refrigerator back cover, plug in the refrigerator to the wall and slide into place.  There are plenty of do-it-yourself videos on YouTube, but be careful on how the 3 pins on the compressor are wired.  I say this because mine were upside down from what most videos show.  My refrigerator has been running fine to present date (about 2 weeks) with no further problems.  At this point, I would highly recommend the RCO410 capacitor kit.  If it doesn't work for you, all you are out is a little of your time and less than $15 bucks.  Good luck!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3811, "id": 194982, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 554, "len_tokens": 620, "text": "I ordered this for a  bottom freezer refrigerator that I was having compressor start problems with. I was preparing to buy a new fridge prior to finding and researching this start kit. The compressor had finally quit starting and running even after buying and installing a new oem starter for the fridge which was more expensive than this Supco kit. I had previously tested the ohms on the compressor and it checked out fine with no grounding at all to the compressor case from the pins. There are good videos on youtube on how to test your compressor and how to install this kit. I believed that my compressor just needed a stronger capacitor to start and once started it would run just fine so I took the chance and ordered this Supco start kit . I received and wired in the Supco start kit using the package instructions and the only difference was that my oem switch had three wires, two white and one blue. I wired the two white wires to one of the Supco wires and the blue wire to the other and the fridge started right away and ran just fine, I couldn't believe it. No buzzing, no humming or any other issues. Some say these are temporary fixes suggesting that the compressors are on their way out if they won't start with the oem started and others have installed and ran these for months or years on their refrigerators. I have been watching my fridge closely after since this installation and after two full days of running flawlessly I am of the opinion that this starter with its larger capacitor is more in line with the capacitor size that these refrigerators should have installed on them when new instead of the marginal sized capacitors on the oem switches. Before this fridge I had an older fridge that ran for over 25 years with no compressor problems and I did not have to change one part on it during that whole time. I have replaced the electronic board on this existing fridge after only 6 years and after 9 years now the compressor was not starting and the new oem part wasn't starting it either. They do not make them like they used to!  Remember this is my opinion and of course I will wait and see how long this will last but the fridge hasn't missed a beat since the Supco was installed. Opinions, as you will find when you research this part vary greatly so you have to listen to all sides no matter how ridiculous some of them sound and decide. So far I have saved or extended the life of my almost 1100 dollar fridge and only time will tell. If it goes again then I will concede and buy a new fridge because compressor costs and the tools to change them are just too expensive. I will update if this fix last less than 6 months. Thanks for reading and good luck fixing your fridge.\n  Update: 12/18/2014 This part is still working fine but my compressor finally bit the dust and won't run so I guess it was on it's way out when I first had the start issues. I did however, get an additional 3 months use out of the fridge using this part.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3812, "id": 196324, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 463, "len_tokens": 613, "text": "This is a piece of junk with the worst customer support on the planet.  This is also the 2nd one I had that was defective.  1st one powered up but would not register so I attempted to do a factory reset, unplugged, held in button, plugged in, no light, nothing, deader than a door knob.  So on to  my second one.  That gateway registered just fine to my 'previously created' account.  Next step, register the sensor.  No go.  Tried more times than I want to remember.  1st tried their on-line troubleshooting which was nothing more than 'factory reset'..  I LOVE this comment...\n\nBatteries are usually the problem.  Make sure they are new and measure 1.42 volts or higher on a digital volt meter.  HA!  Fortunately I HAVE a dvm but tried several brand new batteries.\n\nNext to perform a factory reset on the sensor.  That never worked, never able to get the 18 88 display, ever, then it just sat there with three red blinks.\n\nNow on to their tech support.  Sent email, because their web site says it's faster than calling.  Really?  Ok, sent email, took TWO DAYS for a response from my VERY detailed description of my problem.  I have been in computer repair for over 30 years, I KNOW what to say but they ignored it all.  They reset my account (which was not a problem from what I could tell, the gateway was registered just fine).  and told me (actually pasted the web links in the email) how to reset the gateway.  I responded with a repeat of my symptoms and troubleshooting to date.  They replied another day or so later  with this\n\nFirst, unplug the gateway for a good 10 minutes.  When you plug it back in, count the blink sets carefully.  If you were working, you should not have 3 blinks...  http://support.lacrossealertsmobile.com/3-blinks.html\nThen you should be able to get 18.88 on the sensor by holding firmly long enough.  If it is counting though, you can likewise just take the batteries out for 10 minutes, as well.\n\nThat link is for three blinks on the gateway (which is a dns issue, which if I had that, I'd never be able to register it). I don't have three blinks on the gateway, it's on the sensor, so they didn't read my email again!  I replied with another email and have yet to get a response, but decided to give up on this unit and the project it was intended for all together and have sent it back.\n\nCongrats to all who gets one that works, I feel sorry for you when the batteries drop below 1.42 volts and everything goes to lunch and you have to recreate everything to get it back working, if it even does!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3813, "id": 196376, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 558, "len_tokens": 660, "text": "It takes a lot for me to do a bad review, but this one deserves it. Their website support section says it all:\n\n\"Sensor registration is based on a sequence of timings that must occur correctly.\"\n\nYou'll need the timing of Buddy Rich to pull this one off I am afraid. I am a network engineer with almost 20 years experience with IP networks. Couldn't pull it off.\n\nDay 1: I connected the La Crosse gateway to the internet, using an open IP address that has free access to the internet, assigned via DCHP from our router. I went through the online activation at my PC workstation -- the gateway registered correctly and showed a solid red LED light. Meaning, it was registered to the La Crosse Alerts account I had just set up and \"could see\" their server. However when it came time to link the sensor to the gateway (the sensor takes the actual temp/humidity readings and feeds the readings to the gateway, which passes them to the LaCrosse Alerts service --), there is an issue. I followed the instructions online (press sensor button then gateway button) and when the two should've linked, they did not. Therefore, the full activation COULD NOT occur. You can't complete the last step unless a) the gateway links to their service, and b) the sensor links to the gateway.\n\nDay 2: Called in and they advised a factory reset of the gateway. Hold in the grey button while power cycling the gateway, waiting, etc and so on. This should put the gateway into a state to allow the sensor to link to it -- four red flashes, pause, four red flashes, etc. and so on. It does not. We get nothing but a continual blink of the red LED light. Technician says that means the gateway is not registered. He claims \"something is blocking\" the gateway from accessing the internet. I know this NOT to be the case. Just to humor the fellow, I connect my laptop to the same ethernet cable, assign it the same IP configuration, and viola I have internet access. Then he starts talking about a setup software tool to assign the gateway a static IP (leading me to believe their DHCP routine is buggy).\n\nSo then I get the software tool, assign the gateway various setting using both DHCP and static IP assignments. No luck. It can't connect to their service. Day one, it connected fine, though the sensor was an issue. After a factory reset the thing is just a hunk of worthless plastic. And worse there is no one there I could get on the phone that understood basic IP networking concepts.\n\nOne mention-worth quirk is that the ONLY time I could ever get the gateway unit to do the \"four blinks\", showing its ready to link the sensor, was by using their software tool to tell it to use a proxy server. We do not use a proxy server, and a proxy server certainly is not needed for internet access. So then what happened? The sensor still failed to link up. Go figure.\n\nMy best guess is when the initial activation failed, there is something in the account we have on their server that is preventing us from \"starting over\". Guess we'll never know. It's going back to Amazon. Oh well.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3814, "id": 200384, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 484, "len_tokens": 609, "text": "My Whirlpool Duet washer displayed SUD and F35 errors. Turns out this is a common problem. Most people believe this to be the fault of the Analog Pressure Sensor (APS) and most people replace it. I did so and it worked -- but now, three years later, the problem repeated.\n\nReplacing this part is straight forward. Unplug the washer, unscrew and remove the top. Turn the old part 90 degrees counter-clockwise to pull it away from the washing machine holding notch and then gingerly remove the wiring harness from the old part. Attach the wiring harness to the new part, insert the part into the holding notch, and turn it clockwise 90 degrees -- job done. Three years ago when I did this it took longer but this time it was easy -- a ten minute fix with most of that time fiddling with the harness.\n\nThis time, after installing the new part, the error codes remained. I did some more web searching and found an answer. The real issue is a pair of  fried capacitors. Search YouTube for Jarred Johnson's \"New and Improved. Fix your Whirlpool Washer with \"SUDS\" and F35 error\" -- it explains what's happened and why and what to do.\n\nThe fix entails getting to the Control Panel Unit (CPU) and replacing two faulty capacitors, rated 2200uF/10v, with 2200uF/25v units. You may source the replacement capacitors locally from an electronics store (for under a dollar each) or order online (factor in handling & shipping).\n\nGetting to the circuit board is a bit of a chore, at least for me. You'll have fun dislodging the CPU from the washer, removing the plethora of wiring harnesses, and opening the housing unit which houses and protects the circuit board. But with some thought and care and determination (and perhaps choice but misplaced colorful language) it can be done. When I finally got to the capacitors I could clearly see the slightly distended tops -- a sure sign of fried/blown/shot/overextended capacitors.\n\nI had to borrow a soldering iron because I couldn't find mine (hadn't used it in years) but just could not dislodge the last bit of solder, even with a solder sucker. In the end, I took the board to a local tv repairman who replaced the capacitors for $10 -- parts and labor -- in about two minutes. (He just heated that soldered hole and slid in the new capacitor lead wire which slipped right in -- real easy once you see it done.)\n\nWith the faulty capacitors replaced, my Duet washer works good as new.\n\nSo. You can buy this expensive APS and maybe get temporary relief -- or go the extra mile and dig out that circuit board and replace the capacitors for a lot less. As I mentioned earlier, the APS solution worked for me for three years but this one may be the ultimate fix up front.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3815, "id": 207020, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 505, "len_tokens": 614, "text": "UPDATE 10/18/2016: Okay folks, it has been confirmed that Samsung now redesigned their haf-cin / DA29-00020b filters. In the photos the one you see with Double rubber ring on the neck is the newest version.\n\nPros:\n-Whoever had a leaking issue previously probably will no more have any leakage (even tho it wasn't the filters fault, it's your loose housing or wrong placement of filter).\n\nCons:\n-now people who had no issues before may have issues now, not the leakage but your water flow will be extremely decreased\n-if you are switching from the older version filter with single rubber ring to the double rubber ring new design, you will have to shut off the water valve, otherwise little bit of air will shut your new filter and it will no more work. once air pressure goes into the filter, paper changes it forms kind of gets damaged i guess.\n-you will be so pissed due to double ring and change of design will decrease your water flow, so that means to take out the first 5 6 gallon of water will take hours!!!!\n\nConclusion, SAMSUNG NEEDS A NEW FILTER COMPANY OR REPLACE OUR EXISTING REFRIGERATORS WITH NEW ONE FOR FREE BECAUSE YOU LIKE MESSING UP EVERY YEAR WITH YOUR FILTER DESIGN!!!!\n\nUPDATE 10/16/2016 ( I have been purchasing this same filter from Amazon, sold and shipped by) here is the latest one i just received 20 days ago and i was going to replace today, and just surprised that something was different!!!! Now there is a double rubber o-ring on the outer head of the filter??? Does Samsung making changes or what is going on??? I spent 2 hours to get a water flowing thru this filter, no luck. Not older filter doesn't work as well. I am afraid that this latest filter damaged my water filter housing head, I am returning for the replacement and will see if the replacement comes different or not.\n\nLatest filter september 2016 looks the one with double rubber ring on the head part.\nit looks little taller than what i have been using originally all the time (i always buy from amazon, shipped and sold)\nalso the filter's top head neck bottom (where its the body starts) looks different as well. Samsung needs to clarify if there are any changes or not on the filter!!!\n\nBought it at October 31st, it did fit, worked and served perfect. No leaks or other issues. Water runs fast and filters very well. I did some water tests between water coming thru this filter and coming straight from the tap. Filters and also softens the water little bit as well. Ensure the model type of filter in your refrigerator matches with this Da29-00020b as well so you will not have leaks or any other problems. 6 months of use 2 people, having visitors oftenly and we are really water drinkers. Just the filter light turned little bit purple now. So 6 months of life for a filter is actually pretty good.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3816, "id": 208854, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 543, "len_tokens": 655, "text": "DOES NOT WORK WITH YEAR 2015\nModel # DLGX4271W - GAS DRYER\nFOR RIGHT SIDED VENTING\n\nI studied all the comments on this post.\n\nWatched the videos on putting this in.\n\nThe instructions in the package suck donkey balls.\n\nIt is tiny font, and crappy printing of the images that you can not read.\n\nOverall the conversion if very simple, IF POSSIBLE.\n\nThe directions say to knock out the cutout first.\n\nThis is impossible because you have no idea how the knock out is built.\n\nInstead remove the screw to the old vent in the back, and then the old vent.\n\nJust pulls right out.\n\nThen be very careful putting your hand inside so you don't get cut.\n\nOn my dryer on the back hole there was nothing sharp.\n\nI shined a light and saw how the knockout was attached, different than in videos I had seen.\n\nInitially I tried to just hit the knockout with a hammer from the outside and nothing happened.\n\nI ended up using a screw driver from the outside, setting it against the metal attachments, that are kind of like detachable cards in magazines, where\nthey have been perforated. There were about 6 connection points. I jammed the screw driver against the connection point, then hit it with a hammer. I think a chisel of some sort would have been the correct tool. Wore safety glasses just to be safe.\n\nThen I grabbed the cutout with a pair of plyers, and rotating it back and forth got it to let go of the final place it was attached.\n\nI looked through the hole, and guess what?\n\nTHERE WAS A BIG F%#%ING GAS PIPE RUNNING RIGHT ACROSS THE SPACE!!\n\nI had even asked LG executive services about this before hand, and they said it would not be a problem.\n\nSee, I had read that in another review.\n\nThe only way to fix this would be to have the gas line, which is a rigid line, re-run inside the dryer.\n\nAll I could think of was pimp my ride. Maybe we could put a fondue maker in at the same time.\n\nWhy in the world would you ship a dryer with a cutout for right side venting when it was not possible?\n\nBecause it is the same one they use for electric dryers, which I expect would have worked for the conversion.\n\nI was assured by LG Executive Services at 877-543-8325 that this would work.\n\nIt did not, and the reason is that the gas line goes directly across the hole for right sided venting.\n\nSo LG get's 0 stars for wasting weeks of my time waiting.\n\nThis product gets 1 star because there should be something in the product description that this is not for our model right side venting. But really this is LG's fault.\n\nAlso pro tip - If you ordered from Home Depot and they delivered you have 48 hours to return it.\n\nI screamed and moaned, worried something like this would happen so the Store Manager at Home Depot sent me an email saying I could return the dryer any time if the conversion did not work.\n\nSo as Bill Murray says in Caddy Shack - I've got that going for me, and that's nice.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3817, "id": 210959, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 596, "len_tokens": 672, "text": "UPDATE: I don't use this much because as I previously wrote, its a bit too manual of a process for me so I really only use when I need to do a quick, small load between regular washes. Anyway, the machine has started leaking water all over the floor when used, and I don't mean a little water. The floor around the machine has been soaked the last few times Ive used it. I thought maybe I was adding too much water so on the last try, I only washed a few items with minimal water but the floor still ended up soaked! Im just not sure at which stage its happening. I guess I need to contact the manufacturer to see if theres anything they can do since the machine is basically useless to me now. Not worth the time and mess.\n\nThis washer and dryer is pretty small and fairly easy to move around (I'm 5'7 female and can lift it without a problem) but I've thought about putting it on something with wheels just to make it easier to put away in the closet after using it bc I don't have room to keep it out and hooked up anywhere all the time. This washer and dryer does the job but by no means is automatic. It requires quite a bit of effort by the user. You have to manually fill the washer to wash the clothes, and then fill it again to rinse after you've drained it. The draining is also not quite as automatic as I would have liked. I use this in my bathroom and put it next to the bathtub so that it's easier to fill and drain. I think there is a way to hook up a hose to the sink to fill this in more of an \"automatic\" way but for me it's just easier/faster to use by the tub and use a pitcher to fill it with water. So it washes, you drain the water (sometimes have to mess with the hose to get it to drain but for the most part it works ok), then you fill it back up with water and run it again to rinse the clothes and then you drain it again.\n\nThe dryer is a spin dryer, there is no heat involved and it is much smaller than the washer so you can't \"dry\" the entire load of clothes at one time. It also works better if you wring out the clothes before putting them in as the washer side doesn't really spin the clothes so they're still pretty wet. The spin dryer works best with only a few things at a time and it doesn't fully dry the clothes, it spins the water out. I hang my clothes on a drying rack after they've gone through the spin dryer. I don't really mind this because I air dry a lot of my clothes anyway. The only thing this isn't great for is denim because it dries very stiff!\n\nOverall this works. It's nice to have in a small place where you don't or can't have a full washer and dryer. I definitely wouldn't recommend it for all of your laundry (big blankets, large loads, etc.). I use it to supplement between when I can take my laundry to a full size washer and dryer. It is definitely more ideal for smaller loads although the washer does hold more than I actually expected it to. It does get the job done but it's definitely somewhat of a manual process.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3818, "id": 210976, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 460, "len_tokens": 610, "text": "I can't stress enough how great this washer is but there is a reason why it gets a 4 star and not 5!\nHere is the breakdown.\n\nPROS:\n1. Super compact- we got the small 7.9 lb loader.  You think it's small but it ain't that small! I'm a size small-medium.  My husband is a small but his clothes are generally bigger and thicker.  Here's a quick breakdown of what can go in in one load.\n1 of my blue jeans, 3 t-shirts (size small) and 2 men's t-shirt, 2 boxers and 2 of my toddler (2T).\n\nAnother load- 4 of my toddler long pants, 4 of my toddler t-shirts, my one set pajamas and one size medium leggings\n\nOne king size sheets and 2 pillow case, 2 large towels (not beach towels)\n\nSee? It ain't so small but the machine is small and portable!\n See picture for size\n\n2.  It's lightweight.  I can carry this washer from one room to another.  This machine is about 28 pounds\n\n3.  IT AGITATES CLOTHES SO WELL!\nOk, so I washed my blue jeans that I had for a little over a year.  This pair of jeans have been washed many times throughout the entire year and when I washed it in the PANDA, the jeans bled like a new pair of jeans.  For an old pair of jeans to bleed bright blue makes you wonder how well our apt's full washer washes.  So here's a photo of the blue water draining into the tub after agitating old pair of jeans.  Will post a video of agitating process if it allows a video\n\n4.  The spinner doesn't completely dry your clothes but it does a pretty good job making it damp- to almost dry! My husband and i were amazed!\n\nCONS:\n1.  Spinner is very small.  With one load in the washer, you would have to do 2 separate spins.  It's not too bad bc spinning only takes 2 mins each but it's another step you have to take\n\n2.  FILTER SYSTEM.  (Lost one star) They say they have one but IT DOES NOT FUNCTION.  (See picture).  I saw a reveiw done by one of the reviewers and she put her sheer pantyhose stocking on the end of the draining tube and THAT WORKS.  It's sheer enough to drain the water but also catches all the lints.\n\n3.  Wish there was a use of detergent guideline bc you don't need a lot! Our first mistake was putting less than .5 of 1 (smallest load on the detergent cup) and it was still a lot of soap.  We had to rinse our clothes 3 more times.  It's a learning experience, I guess.\n\nOverall, amazing washer and spinner! I highly encourage this washer!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3819, "id": 211174, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 436, "len_tokens": 682, "text": "Disclaimer: At the time we had the money to buy ours, we bought it elsewhere as Amazon had it listed as \"We don't know when or if this will become available again.\"  But we LOVE our Panda!!  It's 2 of us, and I do about 4 loads a week in it. His jeans are heavier than mine, so I don't do more than 2 pair at a time, and only spin 1 pair at a time.  I'm a plus-size lady (3-4XL), and a typical load of shirts (tshirts, turtlenecks) ends up being about 7 to wash, and then I spin in 2 batches.  I have washed a king-size flannel sheet set - one at a time and wringing the water out as much as possible before putting it in the spinner.  It took it like a champ but I would ONLY do that in an emergency, NOT on a regular basis.  We've had it for not quite a year and it paid for itself after just 18 weeks of going to the laundromat.  We bought a clothes rack&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Household-Essentials-Collapsible-Indoor-Tripod-Clothes-Dryer/dp/B002E3KYTS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Household Essentials Collapsible Indoor Tripod Clothes Dryer</a>&nbsp;(also elsewhere, sad to say) and that stands in the corner and right now happens to be over our floor furnace vent so clothes dry quickly! On muggy Ohio days, I'd give them overnight as a general rule, and sometimes longer.  For lint (which was a big annoyance), we got a set of these&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Kittymouse-Floating-Washing-Machine-Filter-Bags-pink-or-Blue-or-Green/dp/B00NR295FY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Kittymouse Floating Washing Machine Filter Bags(pink or Blue or Green)</a>&nbsp;and they've been a huge help!  Very little lint on the clothes now!  We did get a slightly larger hose clamp as the one it came with didn't quite fit over our bathroom faucet (understandable as it's marketed more for RVs which typically have smaller faucets) and we have it drain into the toilet.  It does require a but more active use vs an automatic washing macine - you have to drain it, fill it, etc...but I love that I can come home from a workout, throw my sweaty clothes in it and it will wash them while I shower and I don't have to worry about it starting to refill!  I estimate I use a total of 8 gallons of water per wash/rinse - I'm guessing it's a 5-gallon capacity and I never fill it full to the brim.  It takes up very little space in our bathroom, too.  This little unit has been a blessing, especially once we lost our car - I am so grateful we don't have to haul laundry to the laundromat on a bus!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3820, "id": 211286, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 620, "len_tokens": 690, "text": "I bought this specifically for use in our travel trailer as I adore camping but hate having to haul clothes and towels back and forth to our trailer. It arrived in a timely fashion, but I ordered too late in the camping season and wasn't able to use until a few weeks ago. Set up and use was super easy (I watched a few videos on YouTube to make sure I got it right), but found it much easier to use in trailer's bathroom instead of kitchen. Able to let the drain hose go into the shower and hook up to bathroom sink. I put in quite a few clothes and hand towels into the first load and was amazed how much could fit into the washer side. The only drawback is it does take a while to fill up, but minor issue compared to either going to laundry room at campground or having to haul your trailer towels and such home and back to trailer.\nI have seen a lot of complaints about the spin dryer side. People either complaining it \"doesn't dry the clothes completely\" or \"the spin dryer compartment is a lot smaller than the washer side\". First, it's a SPIN DRYER, not a dryer, so expecting the clothes to be completely dry is ridiculous, and second, if the spin dryer side was bigger, the whole unit would be massive and wouldn't be considered portable. I thought the spin dryer dried the clothes enough that they felt slightly damp and hanging them overnight was more than enough to get clothes completely dry. It was so nice to have clean socks and undies halfway through our trip!\nI was amazed at how quiet the machine was on both sides. When using the washer side, closing our bathroom door and sitting in our living room inside the trailer, you could barely hear anything was happening. When using the spin dryer side, it makes a bit of noise in the beginning because it's levelling out, but afterwards, very quiet.\nThe only issue I have with the whole unit is the lint trap piece. The first time I used it, when the washer was going, there was this constant knocking when going through the cycle. I was confused as I only had a few shirts, socks and hand towels in and couldn't figure out what was making the noise until it finished and I opened it and the lint trap piece was floating around. I put it back and put in my second load and same thing happened. So when I did my third load, I just removed the piece as it was useless and kept falling out. I plan to but a lint trap for it in the future.\nThe unit is easy enough to move around and carry to another spot. I am quite short and find it easy to move out of cupboard and into our bathroom and back by myself.\nOverall, the whole unit is amazing and gets clothes just as clean as your home washer and dryer. It's a bit of work but I have found it extremely useful and so happy I found it to use for our camping trips. The lint trap piece is only a minor drawback and not enough for me to take a star away from the rating. Ensure you use fabric softener as I found that sometimes the water in campgrounds can make your clothes quite harsh. If you are looking for a washer for your trailer/RV, I highly recommend this unit. I am currently waiting for the arrival for the Panda Portable Dryer to be delivered so that I am completely set up for doing laundry in our trailer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3821, "id": 211351, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 578, "len_tokens": 676, "text": "Ok, so you just found this item online and you're like, \"HRMMMMM, is this thing really worth the price?  It looks kinda cheaply made....\"  Well I will say that is it not made with cutting edge technology but, I would say so for me, it has been WELL worth the price.  I really have to say the this thing was pretty amazing.  I got this and the panda mini dryer and WOW these things work great!  I did two months worth of laundry in about 4 hours.  I rarely have to use more than about a gallon and a half of water and a teaspoon size amount of detergent for most load sizes.  I typically do two loads with one fill up, though on the second load you will want to add a little more water and about a quarter of a teaspoon of detergent.  I have only done cloths and the linen from my bed thus far and will be trying my comforter this weekend.  My only issue with this the faucet hook up hose is really, REALLY cheap, but you can always just buy a better type one, which I did or just use a water jug to fill it up.  I bought a new hose attachment for my purposes.  I have both units setup on a platform about a foot off the ground to allow for proper drainage of the washer.  The drain hose drains directly into the bathtub, no fuss.  You could also just have it drain into a plastic container depending on your setup.\n\nNow as far as using it, well the instruction manual is, well, crap....  So here is quick run down on how to use.\nThe instruction has different times for load sizes and types but I prefer to wash my all my stuff for the full 15 mins.  Also beware of your delicate because the cloths they, sometimes will get a little twisted up during the wash.\n\nPut enough cloths in to fill the washer side up to where the lint trap is on the inside.  !!!!!DON'T GO ABOVE IT!!!!! the water will splash out.\nNext add enough water so the cloth are right at or below water level, you can add you teaspoon of detergent now as well.\nClose the lid and begin the wash cycle.\nOnce the wash cycle is complete, open both sides and start loading the spin dryer.  Keep in mind not to fill it up all the way, each wash load will take two to three uses of the spinner to complete the full load.\nWhen you have filled the spinner put spinner guard in and close  the lid.\nNow move the water hose to the spinner side (top right when facing machine).  You can also us a funnel and a water jug.\n(Again my preference here)  Set the spin timer to 5 mins and turn on. Let the water run and watch it drain.  When the water start coming out clear you know all the soap is gone (usually only takes about a minute or less) and you can turn the water off and let the spinner complete it's cycle.\nWhen the spinner stop take out the cloths and give them a good shake as they will most like be all compacted together form the spin cycle.\nNow they are ready for the cloths line or your new panda micro tumble dryer.\n\nNow was that so hard Mr. or Mrs. Instruction manual Author.....", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3822, "id": 211566, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 520, "len_tokens": 683, "text": "A few months back, I moved all the way across the country in order to attend medical school.  Being a student, I don't have endless quarters to spend in a laundromat every week.  Nor do I have enough clean underwear to last me an entire month.  I recently found out about these convenient little machines and after some quick calculations, decided it was worth it in the long run.  Plus it would save me the trouble of lugging my laundry to the nearby laundromat and potentially exposing innocent bystanders to my dirty unmentionables.\n\nAfter the grand opening and obligatory product registration, I set out to do a test run.  At first, it seemed wonderful!  But then I noticed a growing dirty puddle on my nice clean floors.  Okay, maybe I did something wrong.  Read over the instructions again, tried a second run.  Again, the damn thing peed all over my floor.\n\nWell, no problem, I thought.  That's what the warranty is for, right?\n\nWRONG.\n\nThe following day, I called the 888 number provided in the manual.  The girl I spoke to sounded so confused, I thought I had the wrong number at first.  After explaining a few times, she said she'll have to talk \"to someone\" and get back to me.  I asked when can I expect a call.  \"Within half an hour,\" she replied.  An hour goes by and of course there is no call.  I tried calling back and apparently their office is closed.  There wasn't even an answering machine, it just rung a few times and automatically hung up.\n\nI was mildly irritated, but figured maybe they'll call me back the next day.  Waiting nearly the entire day and no call.  So I call them again.  Same girl answers and again I have to explain the situation to her.  Do you know what she said?\n\n\"We can't help you.\"\n\nExcuse me?  Is this your product?  Is this your email that confirmed my product registration?  Does it not say \"12 MONTHS WARRANTY GUARANTEED QUALITY\" on your manual? And you can't help me?  I was completely bewildered.  \"Why?\" I asked.\n\n\"You don't have an order number.\"\n\nWell of course I don't, I didn't buy it directly from them!  I tried asking if there was anything they can do.\n\n\"No, you don't have an order number.\"\n\nI was getting pretty irritated at this point and asked to speak to a manager.\n\n\"Sorry, we can't help you.\"\n\nAnd then she HUNG UP ON ME.  Now, I'm a pretty laid back person.  I usually allow the benefit of the doubt.  So I called back.  Of course the same girl answered. And she had the nerve to pretend she didn't know who I was, like I don't recognize her voice.  I informed her that I wasn't happy with their customer service and asked again to speak to a manager.\n\n\"Sorry, we can't help you. Bye bye.\"  Click.\n\nSo apparently this company doesn't honor their warranty at all and now I've thrown away close to $200 for a broken washing machine.  And I still have to save up quarters for the laundromat.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3823, "id": 212623, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 528, "len_tokens": 681, "text": "I have a LG WM3001HWA Washer that gave an error something like \"oe error (drain error)\"  The clothes were left in a big puddle that would not drain.  I used the drain plug at the bottom left side of the machine and drained the water off.  There are some good videos on youtube that will show you step by step how to get to this pump and replace it.  I did see a suggestion to access the pump from the bottom, but mine has a plastic cover with a bunch of screws and due to the placement of my washing machine, it was going to be more of a hassle to get it out and lay it on its side.  The hardest part was getting the big loop spring back on that holds the rubber tub in place (the rubber part that helps the door seal when it is closed).  This tool is supposed to make it a lot easier:&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/LG-Electronics-383EER4001A-Washing-Machine-Outer-Tub-Spring-Removal-Tool/dp/B00AMF8HF8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">LG Electronics 383EER4001A Washing Machine Outer Tub Spring Removal Tool</a>\nI did not have that tool, but it can be done without it.. just takes a while and a little frustration.  You can use screwdrivers, a butter knife, etc.  I used a screwdriver on one side of the loop to hold it and a spring puller that I had from assembling a trampoline to help guide the loop into place and finally stretch the spring until it was back in place.  The rest of the process is pretty simple, just follow an online video.  I would say it takes a good hour to replace it and put it back together... maybe a little longer.  One suggestion I have is to take a piece of paper and tape down any screws you remove and write where they go so that you know where to put them when you put it back together.  Also, I would recommend taking a picture of the pump assembly before you take it out and also note where the colored wires go so that you plug them back onto the correct terminals.  There are 2 pumps in the pump assembly and they are different.  This is the one that typically fails though.  There was a white plastic shroud that goes around the original pump that this pump did not come with.  I removed the one from the old one and put it on the new pump.  I believe I also had to cut some plastic off of the shroud to make it fit.\n\nMy bad pump had a bunch of water in it and it didn't smell the greatest either.  I opened it up, cleaned a bunch of gunk out and reassembled it but it still did not work.  One of the seals must have been bad, but they looked ok.  So, I would recommend saving yourself the hassle and just replace the pump since it is reasonably priced.\n\nThe reason I am giving this 4 stars is it did fix my problem, however it only lasted about 8 months.  I recently purchased another one and I am back up and running again (hopefully this one will last longer).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3824, "id": 213313, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 484, "len_tokens": 611, "text": "Replacing this sensor fixed my LG front load washer.  I tried to wash a heavy load and got the dreaded LE error.  This has happened before, and before it only took removing the drenched clothing, draining the tub, waiting awhile, and it started working again.  Not so lucky this time.  The LE error went away, but the tub would only turn in one direction a couple of inches before stopping suddenly.  It didn't even attempt to turn the other direction.  Then, you could hear the motor begin to whine.\n\nThe fix was simple; there are instructional videos online.  You'll need a ratcheting wrench, metric sockets, and a philips head screwdriver.\n\nInstructions:\n- *Unplug the washer*.\n- Open up the back panel, crack the center bolt and remove it by putting the wrench on it, spin the rotor to the right, and then smack the wrench to the left with your hand.\n- Wiggle the rotor to get it off.  (It's held on by big magnets so it takes a little effort)\n- Remove the two power connectors from the coil.  You may need to unscrew a bracket holding one of the connector cords. (Instructions say remove the ground, but didn't seem necessary)\n- Remove the 6-8 bolts holding the coil on, and remove the coil.\n- Unsnap the sensor to remove, and snap the new one back on.\n- Put the coil back on and screw in the bolts.\n- Plug in the connectors.\n- Put the rotor back on, put some thread lock on the center bolt, and screw it back in.\n- Once tight, and with the wrench still on the bolt, spin the rotor to the left and hit the wrench to the right to ensure it's completely tight.\n- Put the back panel back on.\n- Plug in.\n- Voila.\n\nIf I had the new sensor when I took this apart, then the job may have taken about 1/2 to 1 hour total.  Someone said something about marking the rotor's position before taking it off.  I'm not sure what you're marking, or what issue this could cause, but I didn't do it and the rotor went right back on.  Maybe I got lucky...?\n\nThere's no real reason to call a fix it person.  I heard it costs $80 just to get the fix-it guy to come take a look, much less fix the thing.  This part cost me $16.50 shipped and about 1/2 to 1 hour of easy labor.  It took exactly 7 days to ship to Michigan from this seller.  The only issue I had was that the tracking number never worked and I wasn't sure exactly when I'd get the part, but was pleasantly surprised that it only took a week.  If I could have found one at a local shop, I'd have gone that route.  One week without a washer when you're already out of laundry sucks!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3825, "id": 214325, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 504, "len_tokens": 612, "text": "Best dryer ever! If this little gem runs for the next year or two as well as it has the last couple of days I'll be thrilled. I'm amazed by a couple of things - primarily how much it holds and how fast it dries heavy items like towels, sweatshirts and jeans. It's not tiny outside, about half the size of a standard dryer. And it is quiet! I have a 200 square foot apartment, so it's more like a big bedroom. There's no other room to put it in. It's literally at the head of my bed and I slept through it operating. It's about the same noise level as a box fan, or quieter really.\n\nI've dried several loads of heavy stuff and it dries as fast as my last standard sized home dryer. The only thing I'm NOT crazy about is how hard or annoying it is to get to the filter. You MUST clean it after every load, although I've run a couple of loads without cleaning it and have not had an issue.\n\nThe only other \"con\" is that it is so low to the floor you have to almost get on your hands and knees to reach the dials to turn it on. I'm an old fart, bad knees and fat...so it hurts my back to bend over to do that. Once I have it up on a table I think it will be fine. It's light enough that I can pick it up to put it on a table, so that's good. Now to find a table! Or build one.\n\nThe exhaust is simply warm air. I haven't vented it or felt a need to so far. There was a \"burn off\" smell for about 20 minutes the first time I ran it - kind of like when you turn your home heater on after not running it all summer. It's clean, doesn't heat up the room that much when running, although it may be different in the summer.\n\nOther reviewers said this took 2-3 hours to dry items. Half full of towels and jeans and t-shirts I found it dried items in about 45 minutes to an hour...and that's DRY, not damp. I'm loving not having to lug laundry all the way to a laundromat 30 minutes away. Be sure and get the LARGER dryer. It's like $20 or $30 more, but I think you'll be glad you opted for the bigger unit. I can dry a full-sized quilt in it....although I'm not yet sure my washer will handle a full sized quilt! If you're single, or a couple or even have a small child I think this unit can handle GENTLE use....It's not built like a heavy duty $900 unity. But treat it gently and I think you'll be pleased. I sure am! The photo is of how much lint I pulled off of the filter after three loads. You REALLY DO want to clean it after EACH load. THIS is why you don't wait!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3826, "id": 214398, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 485, "len_tokens": 610, "text": "Frankly, because it cost half the price of the second choice GE model, I placed my order with reservations that it may not be an effective appliance, and was prepared to return it if the trial didn't work out. Instead, I feel fantastic about choosing the economical Sonya over better-known brands.  After researching many brands of apartment-sized dryers at all price points, the higher-capacity Sonya portable became my first choice. It was highly reviewed on several other websites, including those that specialize in small-space living.\n\nMy husband and I completed a traditional outdoor vented installation yesterday. This dryer, plus a vintage Lady Kenmore portable replaced the landlord's Whirlpool Duet high-capacity stacking system. Although the stackers were very nice, their bulk made our tiny laundry area ineffective. The Sonya dryer is at least 8 inches smaller in all dimensions than the previous dryer, yet it holds an impressive load of laundry. In arid, high-altitude Montana, it completely dried each load - 6 so far, including one with 4 pairs of 40\"x36\" cargo pants and several T-shirts - in about 90 minutes. Another plus is the included hardware for a hanging installation; this feature saved $100 over other models that require separate purchase of a stacking rack. The Sonya far exceeded our expectations. I would recommend it highly to anyone needing to squeeze every inch of performance from a closet-sized laundry area.\n\nJuly 9, 2013 Following up on my original review after a month of use: My husband and I are both impressed with the Sonya high-capacity dryer. Other reviewers commented that this machine doesn't seem to get hot, or that it takes a long time to dry. My experience has been quite different. As long it is not overloaded with heavy wet clothing, a load of mixed garments will be completely dry in 90 minutes or less - and be toasty warm when removed from the dryer!\n\nTips on effective use:\n- The installation directions for hanging the dryer do not mention installing two (included) 4\" metal and rubber feet to the back-bottom of the dryer. There are pre-drilled holes in the chassis. YOU MUST INSTALL THESE TO KEEP THE DRYER FROM FALLING OFF THE HOOKS!\n- Install with flexible aluminum vent pipe, not the cheaper accordion plastic type. Connect the 3\" vent into a 4\" dryer vent in the floor or wall; a 4\" to 3\" adaptor, available at most hardware stores, makes the transition smoothly.\n- Keep the dryer lint traps clean. If the exit air vent is blocked with a blanket of lint, the steamy air remains in the dryer.\n- RUN THE SPIN CYCLE TWICE for loads of extra heavy clothing to extract as much water as possible before drying.\n- Process larger (Queen or King) bedding in 2 loads: one for the bottom sheet, a pillow case and a few T-shirts, and another similarly loaded for the top sheet.\n\n- Enjoy!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3827, "id": 214482, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 445, "len_tokens": 653, "text": "After paying 3X for the same part at the local appliance repair shop, I decided to keep a spare. This appears to be my MAYTAG dishwasher's achilles heel, burning out 3.5 years after initial purchase (fuse blew, no burned wires, replacement has been working for about 3 months).\n\n- update 8/17/2014 -\nWell, the replacement from the local appliance store popped ... after 6 MONTHS - no signs of heat stress, burned wiring, etc. May the fleas of a thousand camels plague the designer of this part.  Lets see how long the Amazon part lasts.\n\n- update 9/21/2014 -\nFuse blew again. Diagnostics checked out. Clamp meter indicates peak current draw 9A. Dishwasher research indicates 'all dishwashers' are plagued with reliability issues... Since digital control replaced mechanical timer dishwashers. The moral of the story is to buy the cheapest/simplest dishwasher and expect to replace it after 3 years.\n\n- update 10/19/2014 -\nHeed the warning. replace the connector as per the instructions, even if there's no sign of burned wires.  So far so good.  Measured current draw for a couple of cycles and Maytag doesn't draw more than about 9A.  Not sure if I'm super sensitized or what... the motor sounds like it's surging on the wash (pump) cycle.  If this fuse goes another couple of months, I'll probably pull out the clamp meter again.\n\n- update 2/3/2015 -\nStill working since 9/21/2014. ** The moral of the story is to cut off the old connector and splice in the new one that comes with the fuse.\n\n- update 4/18/2015 -\nFuse blew after 7 months; Getting careless and ran the Heavy Duty Cycle+Steam+Heat Water. Spare installed in 30m; I'm perfecting the process; New spare on order.  Gee Maytag, maybe a utility access door cut into the dishwasher door panel woulda been a nifty feature.  This is obviously a design flaw. I'm never going to buy a Frigidaire/Maytag appliance again.\n\n- update 11/11/2015 -\nStill working since 4/18/2015 (7 months).  I've used the Steam/Extra Hot Water/Extra heat cycles sparingly, maybe once or twice a month at most. Also, although I can't seem to train the wife, I started running the kitchen faucet until I get hot water before starting the dishwasher (My Maytag dishwasher will always bring the water to temperature).\n\n- update 2/5/2017 -\nStill working since 4/18/2015, almost 2 yrs ago. The dishwasher is about 6 years old now.  If it goes another 4 years, my faith will be restored in Maytag.  Here's hoping they worked out the Thermister/fuse for current models. G'luck.\n\n- update 3/24/2018 -\nStill working after ~3 yrs. Please check recent reviews for current part reliability.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3828, "id": 215692, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 577, "len_tokens": 684, "text": "Believe the reviews!!!  We did not and we are paying the price.  I would not buy any GE product again after this purchase.  It may look okay but the quality is ridiculously subpar.  The service from customer relations is even worse.  We have had this refrigerator for all most 11 months now, and we have had 3 service calls for a number of reasons.  First of all, the refrigerator is loud.  I didn't believe most of the reviews on this and thought how loud can it be.  Well it does sound like 100hp compressor is operating in this refrigerator.  The first issue we had was with the refrigerator icing up and causing an even louder fan noise.  The second issue was with the refrigerator and freezer not keeping temperature.  Everything was warm one day and we lost most of the food.  This supposedly got fixed.  The next issue was with this unit keep things too cold and freezing everything in the refrigerator.  The temperature on the frig read out stated 37F but the thermometer we put in there after the last incident said that is was 29F.  I had had enough.  I asked GE to replace this refrigerator.  They then told me that they no longer make the model we had, but they could replace it with a new model that is smaller.  I told them that we could not afford to lose space in the refrigerator and we would need the same model.  They searched a little harder and found one of our models.  They shipped this to us which took about a week.  When the refrigerator arrived at 9:15pm they brought it into the house and set in the kitchen.  We then saw that the whole rear corner of the refrigerator was smashed in by a clamp truck.  This was no cosmetic damage.  It might as well been pushed off the back of the truck with damage like that.  Now they had to return this one and...this was the last straw.  I told GE that I wanted my money back.  After many phone calls and waiting for approvals on this, keep in mind we have a refrigerator that does not keep temperature, we final got GE to agree to buy back our refrigerator.  However, GE would not reimburse us for the full price we paid for the refrigerator.  At first they told me that we would be reimbursed for the MSRP price.  They said the check would be sent to the delivery company and they would deliver the check when they picked up our defective refrigerator.  A few days later I received a message from GE stating that I need to submit receipts for this refrigerator or they will not reimburse us.  I completely understood this and wondered why it wasn't done this way from the beginning.  So I submitted my receipts for the frig which included an extended warranty.  GE then told me that they would only reimburse me for what the refrigerator cost.  They would not reimburse for any taxes, state fees, or warranties.  I had already checked with the warranty company and they told me the warranty was nontransferable so the warranty was useless if I returned the refrigerator.  We are still arguing over this issue I plan to take this as high as it has to go until GE decides to stand by their product and reimburse us for the money that we laid out for this lemon of a product.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3829, "id": 217303, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 490, "len_tokens": 627, "text": "I feel like this machine has gotten a bad rap here.  I have be using this over a week, and I am amazed at the reviews.\n\nI'll cover the big gripes folks have first....\n\n1.  Does not store ice.\nSure it does....just not permanently.  This was one of my biggest worries when I got the machine, but the worry was totally unfounded.  I bought this to be an ice maker replacement for my kitchen and it works great for this purpose.  It will recycle anything that melts.  What I do is simple, fill the machine with filtered water n the morning and turn it on.  Once it seems filled, I turn it off.  The ice will last atleast five hours in it.  By dinner, I turn it on again till it fills up.  The key is knowing about how much ice you consume daily and only adding that amount of water each day.  Once you do that, it works like a dream.  Also, keep in mind this is the case far all portable ice makers.  They would no longer be portable if you expect them to ac as a full freezer as well.\n\n2.  Slow ice production.\nEven though it says right up front, your first Bach could take an hour.  I had ice in 30 mns....and after that, it fills fast.  I never run out of ice with 4 people using it.  I have a hunch that if you try to use this in non climate controlled locations like a boat, you might have issues due to the ambient temp.  The solution is pretty simple though, just bring along a cold ice pack or ice from home to pre cool it.  You'll have ic in no time.\n\n3.  Noise.\nIt's ambient noise level is that of a running microwave.  Don't pit it near your tv.  Works fine in the kichen.  If you have to put it in your man cave, turn it off during your movie, the ice will easily last.\n\n4.  Quality.\nSo far, so good.  It's a fairly simple machine with little that will go wrong.  I've compared all the clear ice brands on amazon.  They are all exactly the same, all from china.  This is the cheapest.  Buy on amazon to address infant mortality.\n\nThis thing is awesome so far...as long as it holds up I highly recommend it.\n\nMy only gripes and they are minor...\n\n1.  The machine takes too long to shut off when it runs low on water.  This results in cloudy, deformed cubes.  Why not just have it shut off when you know the cleanses goes away?  Silly design mistake.\n\n2.  Ice does release in a brick.  I quick light chop with the scoops breaks it up nicely though.\n\n3.  Even though it was shrink wrapped like most ss appliances these days...it still arrive with visible scuffs.  Nothing real bad, but enough to be annoying.  Doubtful any other brand would be better.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3830, "id": 217351, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 410, "len_tokens": 609, "text": "I dislike writing negative reviews, but this one I feel is necessary to help protect other consumers!\n\nDo not buy the Frigidaire French Door refrigerator model FGHB2866PF (LGHB2867PF is the equivalent model number at Lowes)\n\nElectrolux is the parent company of Frigidaire.  My complaint is with the Frigidaire French Door refrigerator model FGHB2866PF.  The unit has a design flaw with the ice maker.  I've owned the refrigerator for about 9 months and the ice maker has broken 3 times and had 2 repair attempts.  The fan in the ice maker is not properly insulated from the rest of the refrigerator so moisture condenses on the fan in the icemaker which then freezes preventing it from working properly.  I'm trying to work with Frigidaire to have the unit replaced.  They want to attempt to fix it again.  The refrigerator comes with a 1 year warranty.  The best I've been able to do is get Frigidaire to extend the warranty 3 months.  My concern is that they will continually attempt to repair the unit until it goes out of warranty and then I have a broken refrigerator.  A further dilemma is that they offer an extended warranty for a few hundred dollars.  I feel cheated by this because from my perspective, they have a bad product with a design flaw that shouldn't require purchase of a warranty.  They are asking me to purchase a warranty on a bad product so that they can continue to fail at fixing it.  So if you purchase this unit expect the real operating cost to be $300 higher because of the extended warranty which only lasts 3 years.  In contrast, my Kenmore has lasted through 3 moves and is 11 years old with no problems.\n\nI want to stress the severity of this.  This is not an issue with my unit.  This is an issue with the model.  See the link to the Frigidaire site below where others have had the same problem.  Just look for the 1 star review.  Ive also added links to other sites where other people have had a similar experience.  Furthermore, when the repairman was out here last, his next stop was another customer with the same problem on the same model.\n\nFrigidaire needs to fix this problem or they may find themselves in a class action lawsuit.\n\nIf you have had the same experience, I encourage you to get the word out to warn others!\n\nhttp://www.frigidaire.com/Kitchen-Appliances/Refrigerators/French-Door-Refrigerator/FGHB2866PF/\n\n[...]\n[...]\nhttp://www.amazon.com/REFRIGERATOR-28-CF-FRENCH-SS-W/product-reviews/B00C9YTN08/ref=cm_cr_dp_qt_hist_one?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&showViewpoints=0", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3831, "id": 218012, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 518, "len_tokens": 627, "text": "I purchased this machine last week because I am tired of dirty laundromats and I still remember the spinner machines some laundromats had in the old days.  For 50 cents, washed clothes could be spun and then dried in a dryer for half the cost without the spin.  Essentially, this machine offers the same convenience.\n\nAppearance -- This spinner arrived today and it is EXACTLY as pictured.  As many others have commented -- this unit is a whole lot bigger than the pictures would lead you to believe/  I appreciate the larger size of this item as it will handle more clothes in fewer loads on laundry day.  The packaging is flimsy for such a large item so when you unpack it, check closely for any cracking or damage from shipping.  I lucked out and this unit arrived undamaged.\n\nFirst Use - Mandatory:  remove the metal bar off of the bottom and cut and remove the heavy duty zip ties that hold the bar in place.  This allows the motor to spin the basket during use.  For my first load, I spun sopping wet underwear, t-shirts, washcloths, and one pillowcase.  After just a few minutes, they were all drier than after a washing machine spin cycle.  This unit cannot completely dry the clothes because there is no heat source.  this unit starts automatically when you close the lid and it runs so quietly I had to touch it to see if it was running!!  It wobbled for a few seconds until it forced out enough water that it could self level.  After that, it ran with almost no vibration and stayed put.\n\nPlacement - For convenience, I put it on a counter so it could drain directly into the sink because I didn't want to deal with emptying buckets.  Plus, the drain is always open on this unit so when a bucket is removed to empty, water will continue to drip.  The drain is direct and always open so stray water drops are always possible.  This beneficially means there is less chance of water sitting in the unit and going moldy or stinky.  I plan to always leave the lid open to air dry between loads because I am super sensitive to mold and mildew.\n\nNow, here's the downside of using a vanity sink (as several other reviewers have pointed out) -- the unit will be very high above the floor.  My counter is 36 inches tall which means the top of the spinner is 5 FEET above the floor and that does not include the additional length needed to reach inside the unit.  Even at 5 feet 7 inches with average arm length, I struggle to reach the clothes so lowering the unit and and using a two bucket relay may be in my future.\n\nI anticipate that this spinner will save a minimum of $50 a month normally spent at the laundromat.  If line drying is not appealing, a short dry cycle at the laundromat will finish everything nicely.  Just like laundry day but for only $1.  This spinner is a win - win for me!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3832, "id": 218391, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 411, "len_tokens": 692, "text": "Because it's fast, silent, and very, very effective. It lacks only being deadly, but that's probably a good thing in a laundry appliance.\n\nIt arrived well-packaged, and required some styrofoam removal, inlcuding wiping out the pestiferous crumbs, as well as clipping free the motor restraint bar from the bottom, before it was ready to use. Those were simple operations.\n\nIt's not that heavy, can easily be lifted to sink level, which you will need to do as the outlet (above the indent in the bottom) is not shaped to accommodate a drain line. If you leave it on the floor, it seems to widdle, or at least to spray water in unexpected directions which a standard dishpan cannot catch ... although the dishpan is perfectly sized to sit under the nozzle. The Nina also continues to drain for an extended period after use, so be warned.\n\nBe careful to load clothes evenly, which is most easily done by laying them lengthwise around the inside of the barrel. Keep an eye out for weight distribution. If it's a LITTLE off, the Nina will shortly spin it into balance. If it's far enough off to trip the sensors, it will walk, and never get up to optimal speed. You'll have to resign yourself to practicing a bit at first.\n\nRemember to put the little pink plastic thingummy provided in place on top of them. Items I tossed in on top of it, as I did not remember its presence, were not as dry as those under it.\n\nThose needs attended, the Nina works like a dream. Your clothes come out about twice as dry as they do from a commercial washer.\n\nUpdate: two months later, still extraordinarily pleased with the Nina. I've gotten into the habit of allowing it to work its magic after the wash cycle of my&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Bonus-Package-Panda-Small-Mini-Portable-Compact-Washer-Washing-Machine-5-5lbs-Capacity/dp/B005GM942C/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Bonus Package Panda Small Mini Portable Compact Washer Washing Machine 5.5lbs Capacity</a>&nbsp;while the Panda refills. This means there is very little soap in the clothes when I rinse them, and two rinses are sufficient to get things quite clean. One more session in the Nina and they're ready to go into the&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Easy-Dry-Portable-Clothes-Dryer/dp/B001DKJXK4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Easy Dry- Portable Clothes Dryer</a>. If you want to be laundromat free, these three will almost get you there. If you want to be totally laundromat free, you will need the larger&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Panda-Small-Compact-Portable-Washing-Machine-6-7lbs-Capacity-with-Spin-Dryer/dp/B00AW04ZMM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Panda Small Compact Portable Washing Machine(6-7lbs Capacity) with Spin Dryer</a>.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3833, "id": 218747, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 493, "len_tokens": 620, "text": "Update 5/3/14: Still in love with this fridge.  The two of us are still on our first SodaStream canister.  We love the flexibility of the snack drawer (currently \"marinate the steak\" drawer), and have adjusted the shelves to best suit us.  I scraped a glass bowl along one of these shelves and it didn't scratch--hooray!  The fridge continues to be quiet, except when dropping ice cubes, and it took a day for the dog to quit barking and us to sleep through. It's really not that loud, just a new sound.  The ice cubes themselves we think are a huge plus for this fridge.  They're softer than hard ice cubes--something we were expecting with the maker in the fridge and not the freezer.  I can munch on them all day.  It is important to note, unless you very strictly follow the setup instructions for the ice cube maker (shake the bin every hour after cleaning and reset), you will be enjoying a mix of cubed and crushed until you rest it again. We really love how bright it is.  It is packed with food and containers at the moment and not one of them is hidden from my hungry eyes.  Produce is staying fresh days longer than the previous fridge.\n\nMy husband and I are thrilled with our new addition.  It came very securely packaged and with easy to read manuals.  Most of the setup is common sense (hook up water, plug into wall, peel off plastic, etc.).  The carbonator was an easy find at Target and we received a rebate for a SodaStream with the manuals.\n\nSoda has three different levels of carbonation (1-2 Pellegrino, 3 Perrier).  It takes a few minutes to fill the reservoir, but it's not inconveniently long.  The Samsung website has a chart that actually breaks down how much sparkling water is made at which level and how long it takes for each in the FAQ section.  The cartridge pops into the door; not a lot of force required.\n\nVery roomy and well-lit.  The lights on the side in the interior really ensure I can see all my Tupperwares all the way to the back.  We're having fun with the middle drawer--do not put glass in it!  This is not for wine storage. Our thermometers say all temperatures are within ideal range on suggested settings. The ice maker does make noise when making ice, but otherwise there is no obnoxious noise coming from it.  No coils on the back that need to be vacuumed either.  Water filters are easy to find at Home Depot and install.\n\nThis fridge is 410lbs before groceries and replaced our 100lb fridge.  We live in an older home and reinforced the floor just to make sure we wouldn't find it in the crawlspace the next the morning.  Not sure if it was necessary, but couldn't hurt.  Overall my husband and I are thrilled to welcome the new member of the family.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3834, "id": 218757, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 538, "len_tokens": 662, "text": "Lesson learned. I will never buy another Samsung appliance. They make a mean phone or tablet, but this refrigerator is a gorgeous piece of dead weight.\n\nTo its credit, it's beautiful. It maintains a perfect temperature and stores lots of stuff. That's the good. Now....\n\nThe ice maker leaks. Apparently there's a service bulletin out on it, because of a small seam in the bottom left corner that allows the warmer air from the refrigerator section to get in and melt the ice & interfere with the freezing process. That means you will not get many whole ice cubes: even on the \"cubed\" setting, I get little pieces of ice and not anywhere near the \"10 lbs of ice a day\" that it advertises. I plan on sealing the seam with silicone gel to see if that helps. Oh by the way: I'm on my second ice maker, it's crap and I've only had the fridge 15 months!\n\nSo where does all this leaking water go? There is a tiny drip tray in the fridge door, and that's where it goes. The engineers at Samsung, however, decided to make it a NON-REMOVABLE drip tray. It doesn't drain anywhere... it just fills up and then you have to take a sponge in there to sop out all the water every few days. Very much a pain in the tailpipe, folks.\n\nNext: the compressor is now making a God-awful noise, and I'm 3 months out of the 1-year warranty. I did get a 10-year major component extended warranty that covers the compressor, but not the service call, diagnostics or labor. Which means we're going to be out even MORE money on an already costly fridge.\n\nNext: the Sodastream function works well enough, but good luck fitting a Sodastream bottle in the door straight to use it! No, again those pesky engineers designed the opening below the water spout too short for you to stand a 1-liter bottle up in. I've gotten very good at angling the bottle in and measuring the right amount of sparkling water into the bottle, though. If you still choose to buy this fridge, get used to it.\n\nIt's extremely heavy. I can't even budge this thing, which means that I have to wait for the service technician to pull it out and service the compressor before I can put a refrigerator surge protector in the outlet. I highly recommend this because the compressor is a very specialized one, and not many appliance repair companies will even touch it. So if you're going to spend this much on this fridge, spend a little more on a surge protector. They're available on Amazon. The problem is that if it ever trips, you'll have to pull this monster out to reset it... so now I'm having second thoughts about installing it. We're hosed!\n\nIn summary, given the chance to go back in time 15 months and talk to ourselves while we were looking at this shiny, beautiful appliance, we would do so, screaming \"NOOOO! RUN! STAY FAR AWAY!\" You can surely do much better for the money that this dog of a fridge, and I cannot possibly recommend it to anyone I like. And I like you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3835, "id": 220290, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 547, "len_tokens": 624, "text": "Ive had these for over a month and although I can't speak for the longevity of the machines, i can say that they are wonderful so far. We ordered them upon moving so I had quite a bit of laundry when they got here and I put them to the test load after load for 2 days, down comforter, dirty farm clothes, kids clothes, cleaning rags and towels. It does them all in record time! I did read a lot of reviews and hesitated for weeks on making the decision to buy online, but it worked out great. I thought the customer service was just fine and they were easy to put together. However just to clarify YOU NEED HOT AND COLD WATER HOSES TO HOOK UP AND A DRYER CORD THAT MATCHES YOUR OUTLET. They hoses that come with allow you to hook the dryer and Y it to the  COLD water spout and connect the washer to that (with the hoses you buy). Trying to explain all questions and other complaints that I saw and worked through. I saw another complaint that they got a NO WATER display on the washer. I did get one of those when washing the fleece blankets. the problem wasn't the machine malfunctioning, it was telling you it couldn't complete. When i looked in, i noticed the blankets were really sudsy, so what the NO WATER meant is it wanted to drain more, it sensed the bubbles but had no water. I simply ran a rinse cycle and it was fine. I had a problem with those type of blankets in my other washer getting really sudsy too with the same soap i do with other loads.\nThe pedestals are awesome with the spring release you can simply nudge it with your toe and it will glide open and do the same to close it! same with the doors. I can walk to the washer with a handful of clothes and just press the door and it pops open with tons of room! The lighting on these are fantastic and the noise the make it VERY MINIMAL. we made very sure the pedestals were set where they would be and leveled before pulling them out to install the W&D to the tops. And another thing i didn't know from the description is that apart from the steam/sanitize feature in both, the washer has a fresh rinse so the water in the rinse doesn't go through the soap container like other washers thus reducing soap residue. And the spin cycle is so efficient that I kid you not they are almost dry when you put them in the dryer! I am truly in heaven as a mostly stay at home mom of a farmer, two boys and an indoor dog, I do a LOT of laundry! This set has a setting for pet beds, towels, comforter, jeans along with all the others. The quick steam dry allows me to continue not to own an iron which i love and the sanitize dry allows me to have clean pillows without the lumps from the washer. There is also a shrink guard setting on the dryer mind you. So I hope that helps others make any decision they might be hesitating with.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3836, "id": 220312, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 529, "len_tokens": 652, "text": "I wish I had some nice things to say about these machines, but my story seems like a episode for Worst Case Laundry Soap Operas!  We ordered this set online and it took over 4 weeks for delivery (the first time) ~ and I had to make over 7 phone calls to find out where it was in transit -- no one EVER seemed to know.  It was supposed to have \"WHITE GLOVE\" delivery, but when it got here, the two truckers didn't know anything more than taking the machines out of a box.  Good thing my husband is a handyman and he was able to do the job, however, we PAID for installation service.  Even before it was shipped, the seller called to ask me if they could just DROP IT OFF on the driveway?  Our driveway is 1/4 mile long -- no thank you!\n\nAfter installation, we had an error code on the washer the FIRST TIME we did wash!  After calling Electrolux, they determined the unit was defective and needed replacement.  While we were setting up replacement delivery, the dryer started leaking water from the steam feature.  Electrolux decided the dryer was also a complete lemon and wanted to replace BOTH the washer and dryer with a local supplier.  Another 3 weeks and the set is in place.\n\nI wouldn't recommend this set for many reasons:\n\n* It is made of cheap plastic, one would think titanium would be a metal of sorts, but it is really thin and flimsy plastic.\n* Reversal of washer door is a disaster.  My husband had reversed both washer doors and they actually aren't MADE to be reversed.  You CAN reverse, but it doesn't function the same because of the bell shape on the inside of the door.  Don't order these if you want your door to open from right to left. They also don't close as well when reversed - POOR DESIGN!\n* The dryer does NOT have a drying sensor as claimed.  We have tried every setting in the book and in the DVD and it does NOT sense the wetness of your clothes.  Be prepared to run your dryer through 2 cycles no matter what, 3 with towels or jeans.  It's just that bad.\n* The \"push\" open feature is nice on the pedestals and the doors however closing is another story.  It takes quite a number of times pushing it closed to get it to actually STAY closed.  One very frustrating feature.\n* The dryer lint screen is a bit tough in and out - not a big deal, but time consuming.  What is worse is that most of the lint doesn't even get caught up in the screen underneath the plastic grid that holds the screen in place.  There is no WAY to get the lint out besides sticking your fingers through tiny holes to pull it out, even still, you won't get it all out.  VERY POOR DESIGN.\n\nThere are some other negatives about this set, but suffice to say, the only positive is that it LOOKS good - but that's about all.\n\nLousy Service!\nLousy Delivery!\nLousy Performance!\nLousy Design!\n\nBuyer Beware.\n*", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3837, "id": 220471, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 546, "len_tokens": 677, "text": "I purchased this to replace the AC/DC/Propane refrigerator which was in the Minnie Winnie RV we are restoring.  The old 3-way power refer no longer worked, and a new one like that is more than three times the cost of this one.  This fridge fit right into the same cabinet the old one came out of.  The height was perfect.  It is just a little narrower, but actually has a bit more interior space because the depth is greater.  To fasten it n place was easy.  The back is on two rollers, and there is a convenient hole next to each.  I bolted it down through the floor of the cabinet.  The front has leveling feet which screw in and out.  I took each out completely and then screwed it back in through a steel angle.  The angles fit against the front of the cabinet below the opening and are screwed in place.  To keep it from rocking I put a piece of foam about 6\" square on each side near the top.  It is solid and still has good circulation.  I used some trim to cover the gaps on the sides.\n\nThe refrigerator works perfectly, and once we adjusted it the fridge part is in the high 30s while the freezer hovers near zero.  A compressor fridge like this just cools better than a propane model.  We boondock quite a bit, so we need to be able to run this when camping far from shore power.  I'm an electronics guy, so I did some testing.  This draws 70 watts when running, but it doesn't run all the time.  At 80 degrees ambient temperature it runs a bit less than half of the time, so it draws only an average of 30 watts or so.  Now, 36 watts is 3 amps at 12 volts.  Three amps times 24 hours is 72 amp hours, and I am using a really good AGM deep cycle battery with 85 amp hours.\n\nHowever, I also have 200 watts of solar panels on the roof of the RV.  To keep the math easy, figure they average 144 watts for 10 hours a day.  144 watts is 12 amps at 12 volts, times 10 hours, means I am getting 120 amp hours of solar charging, which is well over what the refrigerator is consuming, so, in practice, my battery stays full.  If I get a few cloudy or rainy days, I just start the RV and let it idle for a little while.  When the engine is running it charges the house battery at about 50 amps.  Even on a cloudy day I still get quite a bit from my solar panels and it isn't cloudy all that much here in the southwest where we live and camp.  The power for the fridge comes from a 1000 watt pure sine inverter.\n\nWe did have to install some eye bolts so we can run a bungee cord across the doors when we are driving.  So, now we have a great fridge, no need for a generator, and I can enjoy an ice cream bar when camping in the middle of nowhere.  BTW, this arrived early in perfect condition, and the delivery guy even helped my unpack it and put it into the RV.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3838, "id": 221066, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 325, "len_tokens": 612, "text": "Thrilled this Samsung part works in my Whirlpool-built 2005 Kenmore Elite He4t (Model 110.45986400) as a functionally-compatible substitute for the original part (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-8182634-Latch-for-Washer/dp/B0053F9CME/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool 8182634 Latch for Washer</a>). Apparently many manufacturers use the near-same part but give it a wide variety of part numbers. I can vouch that this is fully compatible where it counts: door sensor, latch mechanism, 3 mounting screws and 3 cable connectors, and position of all of these.  It is different in three non-essential ways: (a) faceplate is white, (b) this lacks 2 wiring harness retainers, and (c) it has differing shape on its \"wings\"--none of which effect installation or function.\n\nI was very glad to find this part (at a good price and with prime shipping) because the exact OEM part was twice the price and not Prime.  My original part (as removed from the machine) was made by EMZ of Germany (EMZ part no. 38.0140; also stamped as part # 461970200692)\n\nAs noted above, this Samsung part differs from the Whirlpool/Sears part in that  (1) this has a white latching surround and will change the color of your door-latch \"dock\" from OEM Black to Samsung White. It is also (2) the case that this does not have two tabs that, on the Whirlpool part, help loosely hold a nearby cable harness in place (which I've since found stays in place on its own).  But the cable connectors, screw holes, and switches all have the exact same geometry and the new latch has worked great (and quieter) through two test loads of laundry.\n\nSamsung also makes a part (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/DC64-00519B-Whirlpool-Washer-Door-Switch-Assembly/dp/B017CE29OQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">DC64-00519B Whirlpool Washer Door Switch Assembly</a>)that has the two cable-harness tabs, but it was nearly 30% pricier when I looked.\nTip: your old latch may have failed because it wore itself out on a misaligned docking tab. So you may want to also buy a&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-8181651-Door-Strike/dp/B00ECV5TMC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool 8181651 Door Strike</a>", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3839, "id": 222306, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 512, "len_tokens": 666, "text": "I have only had this little gem for less than twenty four hours, and I am already quite impressed with it.  After reading so many negative comments on this washer (though the positives far outweigh them), I thought I ought to address some of them.  For those who wrote that the connectors are garbage, I had no issues with mine.  I unscrewed my kitchen faucet's aerator, and screwed in the one enclosed with my washer, and...voila!  It was a perfect fit.  My only issue was the excess water coming out of the faucet side.  I solved this with wrapping a Handi-Wipe around the connection.  I later tightened the connections, manually. No more leakage. At first I connected the hose backwards, resulting in a drip of water going into the machine.  I unscrewed both ends (after turning off the tap), and tried it once again, and...voila! A current of water began to fill the machine.  Before turning anything on (water or power), I made sure the round connector in the back of the machine was turned totally clockwise.  The instruction manual is not written in perfect English, but it is very much understandable.  I read it from cover to cover, as I usually do with new appliances.  I did a trial wash with this little machine, and I put in:  two pairs of jeans, two t-shirts, and 6 different pairs of socks.  I used the NORMAL setting, and the LARGE load setting.  I used liquid detergent, about 1/2 (or a little less) of what is recommended for a small load. The washer indicated 31 minutes of total wash time.  I was impressed with the quietness of its operation during wash cycle.  You must place the outlet hose approx. 3 feet above the washer.  My kitchen sink was just the right height.  The spin cycle was a bit louder, as would be expected, but still not very loud.  One of this washer's front \"wheels\", the one on MY right hand side, is adjustable.  It is recommended you be certain the washer is level before you attempt to wash.  I stood beside the washer during spin cycle and held it down somewhat (it was after 12 midnight, I hate to admit), and later just angled it differently on my kitchen floor, but either way, it was pretty quiet, all things considered.  My jeans and t-shirts were well washed, and mostly dry.  My socks, which were white, turned bluish (my fault, of course), but were also very much spun dried.  This little washer is amazing, and most especially for its price.  The back \"wheels\" worked for me.  All you have to do is angle the machine, tilt it backwards, and it glides easily back into your storage spot for it.  I LOVE this washer.  I know it's only been a few hours, but I cannot contain my joy in knowing I will have clean, well washed clothes in my own home.  No more laundromats and all the issues involved with them!  Highly recommend. P.S.  Made mostly of plastic, handle with care, and avoid HIGH water temps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3840, "id": 222927, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 570, "len_tokens": 678, "text": "The only reason I'm reviewing this is to help educate those who are thinking of ordering this kit.  If you are one of them, then your fridge isn't working and you probably realize your relay and overload component is bad.  Many forums help you diagnose the relay/overload unit.  Mine sounded like a rattle when I shook it, had a burnt mark on one lead slot and had little black ceramic pieces falling out of it.  The fridge/freezer wouldn't cool, the compressor wasn't running and the compressor was very hot when touched.\n\nAfter realizing that my part number is replaced by this kit, I was a bit curious as to how it would all work due to the many parts which are displayed in the picture.  Once I opened the kit, there is a set of directions with photos and all the parts shown in the above picture.  The kit basically comes with four relay/overload setups for four different groups of refrigerators.  You won't use all the parts.  If you are lucky like me and one of the two shown in the picture look identical to the one you are replacing, then you can do a like for like swap (\"combo relay\").  One is used if there is an EGY80 in the compressor model, while the other is used if there is an EGY90.  These are the ones with the long plastic finger to hold the start capacitor in place.  If yours looks different (no finger), then you will have to do a pieced together rebuild (\"discrete\") using the remaining parts and jumper cable.  Again, an EGY80 will have you use one overload part, while the EGY90 will have you use the other.  The small relay (black part) is then used for both with the jumper cable.  The exposed rebuild is then covered with the black plastic cover shown in the picture.  If you used one of the combo units, all these other parts are not used at all.\n\nTherefore, you may be lucky and simply have to buy this whole kit to get one of its parts, or you will have to put together a few of the parts in order to replace your old single part.  In the end, the kit should work if your original part number is included in the list.  The directions will help you figure out which part or parts you should use and how to put them all together.\n\nOne other thing, I believe my relay might have burned out because I had never cleaned the grate under the fridge for over 7 years.  There sure was a lot of dust in there when I pulled off the front bottom cover.  I vacuumed and blew it all out from the front and back.  The fan next to the compressor needs to be able to draw air through the grate in order to operate the fridge.  When covered with dust, the fridge works much harder.  Now that I cleaned the grate and replaced the relay, the fridge now works better than it did before it broke.  I have to remember to clean it every 6 months.  By the way, my fridge had two hidden papers folded up inside the back of the plastic grill on the front bottom of the fridge.  There are part numbers, electrical diagrams and resistance ratings for key components.  I wish I had known it was there to begin with.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3841, "id": 224594, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 591, "len_tokens": 672, "text": "I purchased this motor through \"Amazon.com LLC\". There are several providers of this part and unless you knowingly select a specific provider, you get which ever is the default seller out of multiples. The part I recieved appeared to be a genuine Whirlpool part, as it came in Whirlpool packaging.\n\nI was replacing an motor in a Kenmore dryer and this was the part specified by Sears, but theirs was significantly more expensive. The part I recieved was manufactured, or at least assembled in Mexico. This is not the Asian motor that others seem to be having so many problems with. Like others noted, the wiring is different from my original motor and required the the replacement of two wiring connectors on the dryer (a fairly simple fix, but could be tricky for someone who hasn't done anything like that before).\n\nLike others have noted in their reviews, the instructions provided for installation were poorly printed pages that were legible, but slightly difficult to read. The instructions do not explain how to remove the old motor, so you are best off finding one of the many videos on YouTube that show you how. Probably the most difficult part in the whole process of removing the motor was getting the motor separated from the plastic blower part at the back of the dryer. The best suggestion I found was to use vice grips to clamp on the nylon square nut, because using pliers and wrenches will almost always result in stripping the edges. The other trick is knowing that to remove that motor from the blower fan, you have to turn the motor in the direction opposite to normal (turn to the right).\n\nOnce the motor is out, it is fairly simple to reinstall the new one. I suggest replacing the leads first and wiring up the motor before reinstalling it. On my dryer, once the motor is installed, it is rotated counter-clockwise until it seats. At that point the male wiring leads were facing downward and would be nearly impossible to wire up because you can't see the numbering of the pins. The one issue that I ran into that wasn't included in the instructions was the replacement of the grounding wire. I had a green wire on my old dryer and the instructions didn't include a step for the replacement of that wire. On the motor I received, there is a T20 (star head) screw that is clearly marked as the ground on the motor. I had no difficulty connecting it, but if someone didn't have a T20 driver, that might prove more difficult. In the past, I've used a small flat head screwdriver and was able to remove star headed screws.\n\nInstallation was pretty easy, originally I messed up and installed the motor before wiring it and had one of the wires on the grounding lead, so nothing worked, one I figured out what I did wrong I quickly corrected it and everything worked beautifully. I know some people noted that their motors sounded louder than the original, I couldn't tell any difference between the two, personally.\n\nI am very happy with the motor and I hope it lasts the test of time. I will update my review if I have any problems with the motor in the future.\n\nONE THOUGHT: Go ahead and get a replacement belt when you buy your motor, they are fairly inexpensive and since you have the belt off to replace the motor, you may as well put a new one on.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3842, "id": 226629, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 559, "len_tokens": 648, "text": "Fit my Kenmore model #10655249400 perfectly. For those who are wondering, this ice maker works with many older Kenmore models where the wire harness is NOT detachable from the refrigerator. The whole installation took me about 15 minutes from start to finish. This procedure is for refrigerators where the wiring harness cannot be unplugged from the refrigerator.\n\n1. Turn off the water, unplug the refrigerator, and remove the ice container.\n2. Remove the cover from the old ice maker.\n3. Use a 1/4 driver to loosen (do NOT remove) the top two bolts.\n4. Remove the bottom bolt.\n5. Gently lift the ice maker up to remove it from the mount.\n6. Use a small flat blade screwdriver and push down on the white clip while pulling on the wiring harness to remove it from the old ice maker, and then remove the wiring harness from the fuse clip.\n7. Gently pull the shut off arm from the back of the old ice maker and then pull the front of the shut off arm out.\n8. Remove the cover from the new ice maker and use a flat screwdriver to remove the wiring harness.\n9. Install the shut off arm onto the new ice maker by gently inserting into the back of the new ice maker and then gently push in the front.\n10. Slide the wiring harness from the refrigerator into the new ice maker until it clips and insert the fused wire into the fuse clip.\n11. Gently lift the new ice maker and push it over the water fill tube. Make sure the fill tube goes through the hole.\n12. Gently maneuver the ice maker until the top mounting bracket engages the top two screws and slide the ice maker down over the screws.\n13. Tighten the top bracket screws.\n14. Insert and tighten the bottom bracket screw.\n15. Put the cover on the new ice maker and reinstall the ice container.\n17. Turn on the water and plug in the refrigerator.\n16. It may take up to 24 hours fro the new ice maker to completely cool. In most cases it should dump the first batch of ice within a few hours.\n\nAfter the new ice maker is installed you may want to place a towel under the ice tray as a precaution in case water spills out of it. If water spills it indicates that either the ice maker is not level (most likely) or the water screw is set too far (highly unlikely). Check the top mount to make sure it is fully pushed down over the mounting screws. A small plastic water fill screw is located on the right side of the ice maker by removing the cover. Turn clockwise to lower the fill time.  In most cases none of this will be necessary.\n\nThis ice maker is a good fit, even for some Kenmore models (check Sears Parts Direct). It's a great deal on Amazon and even a better buy if you are lucky enough to get a Used Like New from Amazon Warehouse Deals like I did. Looked brand new to me. Most likely someone bought it and decided not to install it or figured it was too complicated. Believe me, it's a very simple job and will save you hundreds over calling out an appliance repair person.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3843, "id": 229712, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 578, "len_tokens": 673, "text": "This item is a generic exact copy of a Whirlpool product and fits my Whirlpool side by side that was manufactured in 2001; this is the model with the ice auger and clear vertical ice bucket in the door and has the optical circuit board trigger.  Install was easy in our model has a sliding sled assembly that holds this modular ice maker.  Suggestions to make life easier you will need a 1/4 ratchet socket wrench. This makes it unnecessary to remove a shelf.  I use a short straight blade screwdriver to gently separate the four conducter plug that connects the ice maker to the line in the freezer.  I turned the ice maker switch to off.\n\nSome tricks to make install go a bit easier:\n1. Our unit has one vertical locking screw underneath that holds a \"sled\" that locks the icemaker in the fridge. Once you have the old unit out and off the sled(if you one in your freezer unit) carefully remove the end cap that covers the timing mechanism. Looking where the connecting wire goes in there is a kind of hidden tab that locks connector to the ice maker. Pry DOWN on this tab and the wire will slid gently come out of the icemaker assembly.  I would recommend using the old wire harness.  Wire harnesses rarely fail. ALSO the fuse holder clip on the new unit was in the same spot as the old unit.  The new wire harness fuse assembly will require moving the chrome clip that holds the fuse to ice maker.  Hence use the old harness.  The wire harness was not made to exactly match the original in my unit and assumes the installer will move the clip. There are plenty of You Tube videos installing this type of modular ice maker.\n2. Keep the old ice maker handy to compare.\n3. My unit had a really flimsy flap door that is easy to break - this covers the front of the ice maker unit and does serve some purpose but mostly causes the ice cubes to \"hang\" or bouce back into the ice maker.  You may want to experiment with leaving the flap door off.\n4. Test your optical trigger by holding the flap door of the receiver side of the trigger and seeing if the led light goes solid. If the light shines solid on, the unit is ok. The led normally blinks when the main freezer door is open.\n5. Ice maker units of this type take a long time to start working up to 12 hours. Until the device reaches normal operating temperature, nothing happens.  While it is possible to use a short jump wire to trigger the machine into cycling I would just wait. If the unit fails to make ice and there was evident movement of icemaker(look at the tines of the ice maker tray or visually inspect the wheel inside end cap with teeth - you need a new solenoid switch for the water supply.\n6. Why bother? Repairmen charge $100 to $200  for a relatively simple remove and replace of component repair.\n7. Various parts suppliers will allow internal repair of a modular ice maker. The whole unit on Amazon was about $35 plus shipping. Unless you enjoy component testing and repair - buy the whole replacement unit.\n8. The worst thing about repairing the icemaker is reading the 8 or 9 point printed Model number of the fridge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3844, "id": 233013, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 532, "len_tokens": 647, "text": "Great timing - our dishwasher (Frigidaire) broke down Christmas day.  The day after, after driving 15 miles across town to a store who's online page said they had this part in stock, I arrived only to discover that I would have to wait for it to be delivered.  They lied.  After I complained the clerk told me I should be nicer around Christmas, which I thought I was, but I took note and was nice enough to leave without buying anything and I went home and ordered this here.  I wonder how long her job and her company will last, as it's name rhymes with Tears.\n\nHere's the deal.  Mine arrived a day SOONER than promised.  It's somewhere between a 10 minute and 30 minute job depending on how handy you are and how much crap you have stored under your sink.\n\nSteps:\n1- Go to your panel and switch off the breaker that controls your dishwasher\n2- Pull all the junk out from under your sink and turn off the water supply to the dishwasher, and empty the dishwasher\n3- Remove the kick panel under the dishwasher (2 screws)\n5- Open the little power box on the bottom right of the dishwasher and disconnect the three wires (black, white, and green)\n6- Remove the two screws at the top of the dishwasher which connect it to the counter top\n7- slide the dishwasher forward far enough (8-12 inches) to disconnect the water line into the dishwasher (lefty loosie)\n8- Disconnect the dishwasher drain hose from the disposal\n9- Carefully drag the dishwasher out from the cabinets, roll it onto it's back, and clean up any water spilled on the floor\n10- Look for the motor and disconnect the power supply.  It has an idiot proof connector so just squeeze and pull.\n11- With a torx bit, two screws holding in the retaining bracket, then remove the metal bracket holding in the old motor\n12- Slide the old motor out, and do a final comparison to the new one going in.  If it's the same, proceed.  If it's different apologize to your husband for telling him you had it all figured out, slide the dishwasher back into the cabinet, reconnect the drain hose to the disposal so it doesn't leak all over the place, and tell your hubby to make due until the right part arrives as you send this one back.\n13- Use some liquid dish soap to clean out the housing for the motor, and to lube the two new O rings that need to go on the new motor.\n14- Stick the new motor in the housing (gently so as not to disturb the O rings), and when it is fully seated, re-install the retaining bracket\n15- Follow steps 12-1 backwards.\n16- Test it out, then make your hubby take you out to dinner for fixing the machine and saving the cost of a new one\n17- If you swore anywhere along the way you probably owe him makeup sex.\n\nI have only been using this new part for a day.  I will try to remember to re-post in a while to report on the durability of the motor.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3845, "id": 241117, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 592, "len_tokens": 682, "text": "This bearing kit was exactly what we needed.  Thank you to all of you who posted detailed reviews and installation information.  Based on reviews on other sites, I'd concluded that it was our drain pump that was leaking so I ordered that first.  Once I found and read through these reviews of the bearing kit, though, I realized that this was our issue (so we've returned the pump).  We too had a clay colored ring on the floor below the washer and a leak which had gotten progressively worse (to the point where we could see water running on the floor during the wash cycle).  We also had the terrible jet engine noise during the spin cycle but I guess we'd just gotten used to it because it had been going on for a while (the noise started long before the leak became obvious).  We have decent tools and are fairly adventurous on repairs in spite of our lack of experience so we decided to install the kit without purchasing the tool.  Watching the many videos on how to take apart the Whirlpool Cabrio was particularly helpful since the videos helped us get a sense of how much effort was needed to separate and lift the inner tub out and to pound out the old bearings and drive shaft.  We'd have been very reluctant to exert the amount of effort needed to get the bearings out had we not watched the videos.  If your inner (wash) tub sticks the first time you try to take it out, look for the video which shows how to use a car jack and a 21.5 inch 2x4 to put enough pressure on inside of the top of the tub to help it \"lift\" itself out.  We put towels over the 2x4 (no damage to the tub) and our Honda Pilot jack worked beautifully.\n\nIt really was not too hard to get the bearings to go in evenly using a rubber mallet.  It was, however, helpful to have two people installing the bearings.  My husband could exert more pressure to get the drive shaft and bearings into place and it was just helpful to have two sets of hands to move pieces around and install them.\n\nYou will need to take apart your washer to make this repair so expect to do some serious cleaning while you've got it apart.  I found six quarters in the sump area of the outer tub but no foreign objects other than lint in the filter area.  The hoses all needed cleaning and the exterior of the wash tub and the interior of the external tub needed serious scrubbing.\n\nAs with many of the others, we are doubtful that this repair will last forever.  The design of the washer, and specifically the drive shaft, bearings, and seal just lends itself to having water seep in this area and rust it out.  We really long for a washer, large capacity, without an agitator but with water level controls which would allow our clothes to actually be washed in water rather than mostly sitting on top of the water.  Surely the fact that we have to wash things more than once and use pre-soak and extra rinse on every load wipes out whatever water savings the manufacturer might have imagined with the current design.  I did look at washers briefly during this repair cycle (in case the washer was DNR) but it seems to be just more of the same.  Buy the kit... you can do this repair yourself!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3846, "id": 244562, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 498, "len_tokens": 670, "text": "The DX8 is an attempt by Spektrum to evolve their beginner line of radios into a more intermediate demographic.  It failed miserably.  The radio was released with a cornucopia of unsafe hardware and software defects, flaws, and legacy design faults.\n\nDo a web search for \"dx8 problem\" and check out the DX8 owner survey that comes up.  46% (of nearly 500 polled) have unsolvable problems.  That poll is from a Horizon Hobby sponsored website, so it's probably too optimistic.\n\nMy own DX8 was such a basket case, it was morally unsalable on the secondary market.  Horizon replaced defective parts with brand new defective parts, like 4 of 4 defective control-stick potentiometers.  In fairness, I own several Spektrum DX6i's, a DX5e, a DX4e and at least 10 entry level UM transmitters and none have had a bad flight control potentiometer.  It's not just me, the internet is overflowing with reports of DX8 problems.  Search around.\n\nA second critical problem is that all Spektrum receivers still use a legacy design that can only draw left-over electrical power from the 5V servo bus, and cannot pull it's own power directly from a high voltage motor battery.  That is because the design has not been updated since the days when all RC planes/helis had internal combustion motors and so servos and receivers had their own low voltage battery.\n\nThat's a dangerous design to use with modern e-power'd RC aircraft, because newer digital servos (a must for precise high quality control) and newer accessories like servo-less retracts use a ton of electrical power that can easily, very easily, brown out the servo bus and crash a plane with an old fashioned Spektrum receiver.  Helicopters are bigger, more digital, and even more of a problem to fly with Spektrum radios.  You can mitigate the brownout problem by purchasing a Pro BEC for each one of your airplanes and helicopters.  At $40 a pop, that gets expensive, and there is no guarantee that a Pro BEC will prevent a brownout (for example if a servo or retract gets stuck).\n\nSpektrum's own receiver instructions say, \"Inadequate power systems that do not provide the necessary minimum voltage to the receiver during flight have become the number one cause of in-flight failures.\"  Ok, so why not fix the design??  And what they don't say, is that safe receivers like Hitec's (no affiliation) 36V receivers connect directly to an high power electric plane or helicopter motor battery (up to a 10-cell).\n\nA third problem is that voltage telemetry is built-in to the DX8, but not to Spektrum receivers, so you have to add a $55, 1 once telemetry module to every single model so you know how many electrons you have in the gas tank.\n\nAs someone who flies a lot of 3-cell to 12-cell planes and helis, I got REALLY sick of completely uncontrolled crash after crash...\n\nAVOID!!\n\nBuy an Aurora 9 instead.  It is three to five times the radio and commonly sells for less.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3847, "id": 245621, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 549, "len_tokens": 671, "text": "Update Feb 20 2017. LESS THAN ONE MONTH LATER...\n\nThe manifold tube (that inserts to the back wall water feed) that attaches to the sprayer arm was too short by a couple of millimeters and caused a slight tapping at first.  I thought no big deal, it will eventually settle into place and because it was moving freely for the most part, it would be fine.  (I did think about filing it down a little, but it would compromise the seal in the seams. So I didn't). Well after a few weeks of sanitary heated cycles - the sprayer arm gets stuck right at that spot.  No longer feeely moving and not washing the items in the top rack.  I've checked the pump, the drain, etc.  everything is working fine.  But the sprayer arm is not moving beyond that spot where it catches on the manifold.  Frustrating was not the colloquial word that I used while trying to understand why this is happening.  The cheap plastic and the heat do not mix and what was a \"little off\" that only caused a little tapping is now completely stopping the movement.  Ugh. Returning it now.\n\nJust got it today.  At first I was happy to see that the piece was sealed around its edges along the spray arm.  That is where there was separation on the old arm and I finally figured out that it was the culprit for the leaking.  So that was good.\nHere are my \"buts\"... the new spray arm was full of jagged plastic molding.  I looked and thought it was old caulking-but it wasn't.  It was the poor removal from the mold.\nThen I replaced the old spray arm and its feeder tube.  My whirlpool is the old quiet partner II (about 8yrs old) So it had the insert attachment at the end that goes into the back wall water feed.  What I had to do AND NO WHERE ON HERE WAS IT MENTIONED SO I AM DOING IT NOW FOR THE SAKE OF OTHERS TO BE AWARE...  you'll need to keep that insert and put it into the new tube in order to get the water directly into that arm.  Otherwise the new arm WILL NOT WORK AT ALL.  So somewhere in the description there should have been a mention of that.\nThe other big but was the feeder tube harness was a joke.  When the spray arm rotated, it would slightly tap the harness-over time and high temps, this will most certainly cause a separation in the sprayer arm.  I tried everything short of filing down that mold, for it not to tap/scrape.  And the length of the tube is exactly the same, but the new harness had to be placed on the very edge of the rack-not very secured into the rack- so I have to be very cautious when loading it into the rear water feeder.  So there are my gripes-if I had known about these things, I would've been better prepared or even splurged for another kit.\nThe good news is that the leak has completely stopped.  I still have to wait and see if it cleans well. Now off to file that harness down just a bit and keep my fingers crossed that this will last a while.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3848, "id": 249650, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 509, "len_tokens": 607, "text": "While replacing the drive shaft and bearings, a major undertaking, I bought this as well as it had to be removed to get the basket out of the washer. Compared to the cost of the drive shaft, bearings and the special \"tool\" needed for proper removal and installation of the bearings and seal, it was inexpensive and one may as well replace it at the same time. The old one, worn a tiny bit and obviously aged but still serviceable, is stashed with washer accessories. Doesn't take up much space. Not much to say beyond it fits perfectly and works properly. Does what it needs to do. Comes with two upper spline portions as which one is needed depends on specific machine model. My washer is a Sears Kenmore Oasis, which were the Cabrio made by Whirlpool for Sears with the Kenmore name on it. Be aware that the Cabrio and consequently the Kenmore Oasis evolved some over time. Ensure that this specific hub kit is for your specific model Oasis or Cabrio.\n\nI've seen reviews stating this is breaking frequently. It shouldn't. It should last nearly forever if the rest of the machine is functioning correctly. Frequent breakage is indicative of a worn out drive shaft and bearings. Beyond breaking this part frequently, the washer will not agitate properly and your clothes won't end up as clean as they should. They are one of the design weaknesses of the model line although I believe that improved over time as the model line evolved and the new replacement parts are better than the original. If the drive shaft and bearings are shot they should be replaced! If they aren't, the washing machine will eventually start to sound like a coffee grinder run amok even in the agitate cycle, and water will begin leaking some around the drive shaft onto the floor under the washer. The grinding sound during spin becomes horrendous. At that point, replacing the drive shaft requires considerable effort to get the old one out. I had to use a bottle jack and specially cut 2x4 to jack the basket off the drive shaft and it simply did not want to budge even a hair, even after dousing the shaft with 50/50 ATF and Acetone in a metal oiler (world's best penetrating oil; gotta shake it up every time you use it). PB B'laster and Kroil are the best commercially available penetrating oils for parts that have rusted together. WD-40 is the least effective of all penetrating oils for breaking loose nuts, bolts and shafts/bearings that have rusted together. WD = Water Displacing. It's a water displacing light lubricant to prevent rust and water corrosion, not loosen it. My hub spline assembly wasn't damaged, but knowing now how the machine agitates and spins, and shifts between the two modes using this, it's not hard to understand how it could break if the main driveshaft and bearings are worn out as it will be subjected to much more mechanical stress than it was ever designed to tolerate.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3849, "id": 260693, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 382, "len_tokens": 638, "text": "We purchased this vent hood during a kitchen remodel project in December 2013.  We researched for some time before deciding on the ZLine ZLKB36.  We could not have made a better choice.  The vent has a classic and modern look, without any quirky or weird looking design features.  It looks absolutely beautiful, and works like a champ!  It is solidly built, and has the look and feel of quality.  It looks like it cost far more than we spent.  I see that the price has gone up $20 since we bought ours, but I would say that at $100 more it is still worth it.  This unit compares favorably or better than some very expensive range hoods.\nWe have our vent installed over a 36\" cooktop, and it really sucks--the steam/odors right out of the room.  It is reasonably quiet, even on the highest setting.  Installation was easy, but we had to have a HVAC guy reroute our exhaust because our old one was too close to the kitchen window (our code says at least 3' away from the nearest window).  We ended up running our exhaust line through the roof, which worked out great.\nWe like everything about our range hood--the look, the price, the beautiful lighting, it works amazingly well, and it is easy to clean.  I especially like the 3 minute timer shut-off feature.  When you are done cooking and your cooktop/pots/pans are still hot, you hit the timer button while you sit down to dinner.  3 minutes later, the vent and lights shut off automatically.\n\nUPDATE 11/2016:  We use our range hood daily, and it continues to work perfectly and look beautiful.  We finally had one of the halogen bulbs burn out.  I noticed that the new models come with LED bulbs, so I ordered an LED replacement.  Here is the link:&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Bonlux-2W-MR11-GU4-0-LED-Bulbs-10-30V-AC-DC-120-Degree-Beam-Angle-LED-G4-GU4-Bi-pin-Base-20W-Halogen-Bulbs-Equivalent-MR11-Spotlight-Warm-White-for-Landscape-Accent-Recessed-Track-Lighting-Pack-of-2/dp/B01FXX5I4Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Bonlux 2W MR11 GU4.0 LED Bulbs 10-30V AC/DC 120 Degree Beam Angle LED G4/GU4 Bi-pin Base 20W Halogen Bulbs Equivalent MR11 Spotlight Warm White for Landscape Accent Recessed Track Lighting (Pack of 2)</a>\n\nAlso, a tip I learned for cleaning the hood is to use a little vegetable oil on a rag.  This gets all the sticky dust off, and does not leave any streaks like glass or stainless steel cleaners.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3850, "id": 260828, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 564, "len_tokens": 657, "text": "The only thing I can say good about this range hood is its look. It looks pretty neat for the money. I really could not find anything that looks better than this for the money.\n\nI purchased this range hood to replace my current range hood (which is rated at 500CFM) mostly because Z-Line says the range hood is 760CFM in its product description. If that was true, it would be a good deal for the price (I paid $300). But the amount of air this range hood actually pushes out at exhausted vent when running at it max speed is much smaller than my old range hood does. I don't have an air flow meter to get an accurate number, but looking at how much the flap on the vent opens and feeling the air stream blown out when running this range hood at is max v.s. when running my old range hood, I would estimate this range hood is 300CFM max.\n\nOther than that misleading description, this range hood has several other flaws:\n\n- The exhausted pipe come with the range hood is plastic. This is not good. All exhausted pipe for range hood should be rigid steel pipe. It's not a big deal for me as I simply not used it, and used a metal pipe instead.\n\n- The pipe adapter between the hood canopy and the round pipe is also plastic. This caused an headache for me. I couldn't find an steel adapter that fits the range hood from any store. So I had to spend many hours to build an adapter using a piece of 8-in diameter round metal pipe to replace the plastic one on this range hood.\n\n- The design  and build of this range hood makes it's very hard and dangerous to do regular cleaning for the inside:\n\n  + Inside this range hood's canopy, metal edges are not smoothed out. They are extremely sharp. That makes cleaning inside this range hood is a dangerous. I got several cuts on my hands when trying to do that.\n\n  + The edges of baffle filters have the same issue, they are sharp. I plan to give them some sanding job to fix this issue.\n\n  + There are many small chambers inside the range hood canopy. It's practically impossible to have a good cleaning for those chambers. In my experience with range hoods, if not cleaned properly, after using for sometime (years), the cheesy will accumulate enough and start dripping out on things being cooked on the stoves below! I tried to mitigate this with aluminum duct tape (the thing used for heating pipes). Using aluminum duct tape, I could seal/cover most of those chambers so that the cheesy stuff won't get inside them.\n\n  + Many parts, wires inside the range hood canopy are exposed to the air stream the hood tries to suck out. It takes much more time to clean those. They should have been covered, not exposed to the air stream, so that we don't have to clean them.\n\nI'm still using this range hood, not returning it even with all those issues because I damaged my old range hood canopy when taking it out. I need something to fill that old range hood's place! I'm planning to salvage the old blower and throw away this range hood weak blower to 'fix' the capacity issue.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3851, "id": 260841, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 542, "len_tokens": 626, "text": "We could not be more pleased with how quickly the hood arrived and how well packaged it was.  We are in the middle of kitchen remodeling and we had to wait a while until the cabinets were in place in order to install it.\n\nI won't talk about the process of installation because everyone has different needs, for instance, venting issues, re-routing of air pipes, holes in ceiling or wall, etc.\n\nThe Hood looks amazing but the most important thing is that it works as intended. It does.\n\nThe picture shown on the description is not the same one we got. Ours is all stainless steel with steel baffles. 760 CFM's.  We were able to install it at 32\" from the top of the high power gas stove and it works beautifully without getting in the way. (for those with high BTU gas stoves, do the research for your stove since high BTUs and high CFMs may need extra distance)\n\nWe specially enjoy the fact that the hood can be set up to shut itself off after 3 minutes.\n\nIt is a bit loud, but not as loud as the piece of junk it replaced with less than 300 CFMs. We have kitchen/family room combo and there is enough noise with TV and kids to make no difference. The main thing is that it contains cooking odors and there is no grease on the side cabinets.\n\nAfter cooking a dish with cabbage as one of the ingredients, we could all tell how much better this hood was than the one we had before. It did not smell in the bedrooms or hallway.\n\nIn short, we love the hood. It looks great. The stainless steel is beautifully polished and is eye candy as well as a great performer.\n\nOne thing to remind myself of and leaving it here for those who will find it useful: When cleaning the baffles, remember to remove and wash the capture plastic container.\n\nOkay, how is the service with this company?\n\nIf you have to deal with anyone there, you may be pleasantly surprised with the fact that your call is not routed out of the country.  My contact person was Laureen in Ohio and she could not have been more friendly and professional.\n\nThe fast responses received from Laureen is reminiscent of times gone by. If you are old enough, you will remember when customer service, professionalism, courtesy, and problem solving, were the golden standard upon which businesses were built. This is most definitely the case here.\n\nOur reason for the contacts is the fact that our ceilings are 10' feet tall. If that is the case for you, ensure that you order the right extensions to fit your needs at the time of placing the order.\n\nWe could not be more pleased with the product or the company. We highly recommend them.\n\nIn response to someone complaining about the screws: We used our own to install the hood based on the location of our studs and size of holes that had to be drilled. It is not a big problem or a reason to downgrade the quality of the product.\n\n(As soon as I know how to insert a picture of the installed hood, I will)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3852, "id": 261098, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 492, "len_tokens": 619, "text": "In full disclosure, I actually purchased this unit directly from Beverage Factory and not through Amazon because I wanted certain upgrades.\n\nI spent a ton of time researching kegerators and just couldn't justify spending up to $1400 or more on a commercial unit.  I bought this one and upgraded to the SS Tower with Perlick faucets and purchased a tower cooler.\n\nThe highlights for this unit over others is as follows:\n1. the size is able to easily fit oversized kegs.  I have also succeeded in putting two 1/4 kegs in mine.  I know the official description says that you can't but I have succeeded and the door is shut completely.\n2. Circulating fan inside.  Yeah, you can buy a cheaper kegerator and make this mod yourself but this one is done for you and worth the money.\n3. Quiet operation.  This thing is actually in my living room and the noise is not an issue at all.  It is quieter and cycles less than my kitchen fridge.\n4. Digital temperature adjustment.  You don't need to open the door to adjust temperature.  This isn't a huge deal but trust me, if you want to change temps in a cheaper kegerator and you've already got the kegs inside and tapped, it's a pain to adjust.  I personally found it worth the money to upgrade to this unit for that feature.\n5. Deep chill function.  This is great for getting a big keg down to temperature quickly and shows me that they must trust the compressor to handle that load.\n6. The Beverage Factory did an excellent job of getting this unit shipped to me and there were absolutely no issues.  Their customer service is top notch.  I had an issue with the original tower cooler that was sent but they took care of it immediately.  I am very happy that I purchased from this company and I'm not a paid shrill.\n\nRecommendations are to upgrade to the SS Tower with Perlick faucets and purchase a tower cooler.  The tower cooler will cut down on foamy beers.  One of the downfalls of this style of kegerator is the lack of cooling to the tower.  I don't necessarily recommend the tower cooler sold by Beverage Factory but I did purchase it and it is working fine.  The perlick faucets are classy and don't gum up, trust me on this one, they are worth the money.  You might also invest in a lo-boy perlick coupler to allow a little more room if you're going to try to sandwich two 1/4 barrels into this bad boy, but it isn't necessary.\n\nOverall, this is the best kegerator for the money.  Yeah, a commercial unit would be nicer but again, you're going to start around $1400 and by the time you outfit it with couplers, regulators, lines, faucets, etc...  You'll probably be closer to 1600 and you can get this thing upgraded and shipped for probably closer to $800.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3853, "id": 262122, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 526, "len_tokens": 608, "text": "Update! 12/19/14\nI have dried a couple of different things in this dryer. I used a big fluffy pillow that was spin dried and it fluffed up the pillow wonderfully. I used a hot setting instead of air dry like usual and it didn't mess up the pillow. I have used my homemade dryer ball in this dryer and it worked nicely as well. Some water got into the drum when I was washing some stuff, but it took it like a champ and I dried the inside of the drum with a towel and let it run on hot for a few minutes and it still is running smooth as butter. I have bought a twin tub washer to complete my set and I'm excited about trying out a twin sized blanket in here. It takes about 2 hours on the hot setting to finish and the air dry is really nice. It can get stuffed pretty full of clothes and isn't finicky. I love this dryer.\n\nI have a koblenz agitator washer from a 2nd hand store and I wanted a dryer for small spaces to go along with it. The price is great and I can't find this little beauty 2nd hand. I might upgrade to a panda model that has the two tubs in the future. Agitator Models wash things great, but I really want a spin dryer to balance things out.\n\nI just got this little dryer and I love it. It runs very quietly, I almost forgot it was running! It does take a little while, but it gets the clothes nice and fluffy and dry. It plugs directly into any three pronged socket. The only thing that made me annoyed was that it came with venter stuck on the metal attachment that I cannot get off. It still vents, but it is a bit of a problem for the future if I want to get the lint catchers I've seen recommended with this model. I haven't used it at full capacity yet, but I don't need this for anything other than getting my daily clothes nice and dry. Even with Twin bed blankets I don't think this dryer will work for those, so I will be more than happy to air dry those on nice dry days. I'm pretty sure it will dry sheets though. I want to try out different combinations this week to see how it works with things, especially if I can get a pillow in there to fluff up on air dry. The venting is nice and cool-you can put your hand right over the vent!\n\nThis model is very very small, smaller than I had thought! If you have problems bending down, you might want to mount it somewhere or put it on a dedicated table. It doesn't shake or agitate too much, but I think securing it any place that's not on a floor is the best plan. I will be mounting it somewhere because it's better not to have to bend down to get all the clothes sorted out.\n\nAll and all I'm really satisfied by the price and how it works.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3854, "id": 265065, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 516, "len_tokens": 611, "text": "Own a prewar co-op with a way cramped kitchen.  My unit was most likely the coal scoopers unit at one point in time.  Looks great, fits everywhere, cleans thoroughly and easy to use.  The top can also function as additional prep space.  I keep those flat plastic cutting mats on it to keep it looking decent.  Runs quiet.\n\nOut of the box, the unit comes with a metal tap adaptor that locks onto a plastic faucet adaptor on the unit. There are two hoses; one to bring water to the washer and the other to drain. The instructions say to use cold water which I do because I lack experience, this is my first dishwasher and I am frugal about my hot water use. Normal setting runs about two hours. Speed setting runs an hour and two minutes. I do not know if the water is heated.\n\nI always use cold water from the tap, the speed setting, rinse aid and an all in one tablet with good results. I space and place efficiently most of the time. The dishwasher is plenty hot at the end of the cycle. The guide states to crack open the door for a few minutes after washing to allow for a more complete dry. There is a dryer heat element lining the bottom of the washer. You can get a pretty good facial putting your face by the door after a load. For what its worth there is a rinse cycle and that for sure does not heat the water nor do I think engages the drying element.\n\nUnless there is some really caked and baked stuff on there my wash, often including at any given time an combination of coffee maker elements, goblets (mugs, glasses and wine glasses), the pitcher I use to feed as well as my Zero Water 23 cup dispenser itself, pots and pans, the occasional hefty flimsy leftover plastic thingies, Modell sports water bottles, my go-to utility plastic strainer and of course dishes and flatware come out spotless and dry.  Not a thing has melted in there yet.  Every now and again I need to put the water bottles on a drying rack because like life, those things are complicated and who wants to wash a water bottle only to have the sitting water harbor biologics?\n\nBe cognizant to empty the outlet hoses after use.  In the last five months, I had to run a load with Finish machine cleaner once after a heavy use period when the unit get a tinge of funk scent.  Worked like a charm and I still have my two emergency bottles sitting on tap.  Pretty sure experiences may vary though.  I am big on the sanitary thing.  My pre-war brass pipes and budget faucet (literally less that like thirty bucks and I have to admit that thing looks good but kind of feels rickety)  have held up so far.  God willing and knock on wood.  Keep the fittings on the adaptor snug but please do not be a rookie and over tighten.  No need.\n\nObviously, I recommend this dishwasher.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3855, "id": 265260, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 490, "len_tokens": 636, "text": "I had an unusual situation to overcome.  I have a sink from the 1920s built into a kitchen wall with no wiring.  I cant disassemble or move anything in the kitchen, and I have no dishwasher.  My wife and I were getting extremely tired of washing dishes every night.  So The search for a portable dishwasher began.\n\nNeither our local Home Depot or Lowes carried anything in the portable variety.  We had no choice but to buy an appliance, unseen, online.  For the record, this is a scary proposal, I do not recommend trying this.\n\nAfter searching and reading reviews and more searching, I decided portable dishwashers were a joke.  More hassle than they are worth Imagine the headache of rolling a dishwasher out to your sink, hooking it up to a faucet, plugging it in, running the discharge hose into the sink really??? People do this  And then they have to load, unload, and undo all of those connections.  Not for me.\n\nFast forward a couple of years, we are now up to two kids We neeed a dishwasher!!  I went back to search mode and reluctantly bought this SPT getup.\n\nHeres the deal.  This dishwasher is identical to a mounted model.  The only differences are the additional attachments, wheels on the bottom, counter space on top, cement weight in the rear (to counter balance the weight of dishes on an extended rack), and a power plug.  Im not hooking this up every night, Im installing it right beside my sink!\n\nIm 100% sure I voided any warranty doing this, however it has exceeded all expectations.  I now have a dishwasher that functions just like a builtin, no moving, no hose to the sink.\n\nThe process was fairly simple.  I got rid of all attachments that were unnecessary, placed caster coasters under the wheels, plugged it into a well hidden extension cord and installed lines just like a regular dishwasher.  Allow me to list the advantages:\n\n1.  No connecting, disconnecting etc just to wash dishes.\n2.  Physics: The discharge pump does not have to fight gravity to make it up to the sink.  It is now basically a lateral connection.  This should increase the life of the pump.\n3.  I can use my sink while the dishwasher is running Like regular people :)\n4.  Additional counter space.  nice\n5.  If ever I do remodel the kitchen, and no longer have a need for the SPT, it has wheels :) hello craigslist.\n6.  Happy wife...\n\nSpecifically regarding this particular model:\n\nWe are a family of four.  We cook every day.  We use this dishwasher everyday.  Pots, pans, ladles, tongs, forks, knives, plates, glasses stuck on food, dried mac and cheese, greasy pans ALL CLEAN.  Seriously, ALL CLEAN.  Not just Oh, thats good enough, but really spotless.  I am so impressed with this thing.\n\nWe really could not be happier heres the kicker.\n\nI waited 3 years to write this review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3856, "id": 265687, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 609, "len_tokens": 677, "text": "I just loved the design and decided to purchase it in consideration of all great reviews. Less than a week after using it I wish I would have kept my old stove.\n#1. I received a unit with front panel without the actual outlined buttons as pictured. Instead it is just underlined description of the buttons. It is nothing like the great looking display in the picture and I wish I would have returned the unit right then.\n#2. I knew that only the bottom oven was conventional, but didn't realize how uncomfortable it is to use it. Essentially cooking on your kitchen floor, bending down or squatting with heavy pans with the door in the way. In my case it would make more sense to make the top one conventional since that is the one that most people may be using majority of the time. Top one is comfortable to use, uses less energy and should have had the convention option. If that was the case I wouldn't mind bending down now and then when it was necessary to use both or the bigger oven.\n#3. The overhanging glass on the sides looked amazing until I pushed the stove into place and realized that there is metal flashing under the glass on the sides. This makes the glass sit up higher than the counter and not flush. Although it is probably less than an eighth of an inch I find the gap unacceptable and to me the extended sides defy their assumed purpose.\n#4. This one really did it for me! To this point I was at relative peace with my huge mistake and just took it as an expensive lesson, but.... Today I've spilled some coffee over the control panel. There was quite a bit of it and therefore I was surprised that none of it got to the floor. Just wiped the control panel and it would have been a good day if it stopped there.... Just in case I decided to check for spill under the stove and that's when I discovered where all my coffee went. Both oven doors are double wall glass with heat vents on top of the doors and all my coffee leaked from the top down through the vents inside both doors. Streaks everywhere on the inside of the glass, impossible to clean unless you take both doors completely apart. Haven't even looked if it will be possible and ran over to share my experience in case any of this may help others in their decision. I believe it is only reasonable to assume that at some point you will have a spill over your stove. This makes the design unacceptable to me and it just feels like there is more to come... Wish there was a realistic review on this product before I wasted my money.\n\nSo to my experience the pictured product is a great looking stove, but at this point I wish I would have chosen proper design and functionality over looks. Stay tuned, I'm sure there is more to come...\n\nUPDATE: Both front selectable size burners default to the largest size every time you turn them on. It would only make sense to default to the smallest one in order to save energy or the life of the elements, or at least it could remember the last setting. Makes no sense, it is frustrating not to be able to do anything about it. Horrible design. Also only the oven buttons (description of the buttons in my case) light up when pushed and you can hardly see that during the day. Stove buttons do not light up.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3857, "id": 265931, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 502, "len_tokens": 608, "text": "so far so good. Took 10 minutes to install. I was VERY hesitant to pay 400 bucks on something I've never heard of.\n\nI've had this for about 3 months now, we hooked up our top of the line LG front load washer... we even hooked up the hot water line to the wash it as directed. so, our machine runs entirely off of cold water now. It's just me and my husband, and he's a plumber so he gets into some messes. What I like about it, is that if its something very bad you can always just add detergent to the cycle. but, I havn't had to do this yet. the clothing comes out and it has no smell at all- no fragrance smell from detergent.. etc. I do still run a tide cleaning solution through the washer once a month- but it's sanitized daily with the wash-it anyway. oh, and I was concerned when I bought it that it had to be made specifically for energy efficient machines... but it has a switch on it that allows it to be used on a traditional machine, or an energy efficient.\n\n...and I have no idea what people are talking about regarding the \"fill\" time... nothing changed at all regarding the time of my wash cycles. but, my machine is an energy efficient- front loader. I would definitely recommend this product to EVERYONE- its what hotels and hospitals use to clean their bedding. its perfect for those with allergies and those without. No chemicals rubbed on your body and you save sooo much on detergent. The only reason a large amount of public doesn't know about this is because it would put the detergent companies out of business. also HIGHLY recommend for a baby because its NO CHEMICALS. its also better for the environment because NO CHEMICALS...\n\nif you like this product, I encourage you to also look into a OZONE MACHINE for household use. I have a \"ODOR FREE Villa 1000\" you can find this through a google search. I had never heard of this until my aunt showed me hers and apparently its not a secret to the commercial world. its about 350 bucks for a good one, but it cleans the air. its wonderful, its how companies get smoke smells out. Its how hazmat gets rid of a dead body smell... you can leave it on when you're not home, they come with timers, and come home to a fresh home. or just plug it in for 15 minutes a week if you want. or put in your car for a while... I have 2 cats- I LOVE MY OZONE MACHINE! hotels also have these and use them regularly...so do bars... and veterinary clinics...home cleaning companies... and there is nothing you ever have to buy for it, its magic. infact, it was my experience with the ozone machine that made me finally go for it and  try out the \"wash-it\". DO NOT BE AFRAID TO TRY NEW THINGS!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3858, "id": 266432, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 549, "len_tokens": 631, "text": "We are very pleased with the Maxima XL duo. I have been looking for front loading washer and dryer combo, read lots of reviews and researched on Consumerreports.org  These came very highly recommended, and after using it for 2 weeks now, I can certainly see why.\nBut before I get to the actual performance, I'd like to mention a few things that we found a bit frustrating. Set up process took us almost all day, for a couple of reasons - both Washer and Dryer are missing a few key items necessary for setup (those are simply not part of the shipment). I gathered from reviews that we would need to order separately the power cord for the dryer as well as the connection for the dryer vent. However, it would have been helpful if the product description would have stated that a 4 point cord needed instead of a 3 point (those are very different). Also, the split attachment for the water (steam dryer requires a cold water line in) was not right, it had 3 male ends (female in with 2 male outs is needed). Of course we also didn't count of the steamer needing it's own water line connection (a total of 3 lines needed for the duo). With all that said, I am going to write to the seller and strongly advise them to post the list of parts needed, in order to help their clients avoid spending all day running to the hardware store and trying to match up the parts needed. Here's the list:\n1 - Dryer connector vent, with 2 fastening clips\n1 - 4 point connecting power cord for the dryer (this specific model only)\n1 - female in 2 male out water connection splitter (we found that the garden hose splitter worked best, as it has shut off valves on each line)\n3 - water line hoses\n\nNow on to the greatness of the machines - both are very attractive to look at, very easy to operate. Numerous settings for both the wash and the drying allow user to make little adjustments (water temperature, soil time, spin intensity). The dryer has built in sensors to detect when the load is of desired dryness and will shut off the machine to save on energy. Audible alerts sound when the load is done. Another feature I enjoy is the light inside of the washer (I'm a novice to this, I've had dryers with light in, not washers) I find it very helpful. Both machines are very quiet when running.\n\nOne more thing I'd like to point out - for as many laundry room set ups as I have seen, I always notice washer on the right, and dryer on the left - with this set up this duo needs to have a door reversal kit ordered (we're placing the order today) as right now the doors open up and meet in the middle making transfer of the clothing very uncomfortable.\nHaving said all that, please note that my feedback for the duo is great, my complaints are non performance related. I am a believer in working smarter not harder, and this washer and dryer could use a bit of improvement and earning an even higher customer satisfaction!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3859, "id": 269038, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 489, "len_tokens": 617, "text": "Let me start by saying that I would not personally install just an 18 inch dishwasher if I had the choice.  But when we bought our house it already had one installed.  The cabinets are nice and I really don't want to rip them out.  Anyways, we had an 18 inch Frigidaire dishwasher installed that never really cleaned too well.  It finally sprung a leak and we needed a new dishwasher quickly.  No stores stock 18 inch dishwashers, it was at least a month to special order one.  We really like having a dishwasher and this was the only one we could get quickly.  Using Amazon Prime, the dishwasher was at our doorstep in 3 days.  I opened it up to check for damage and we were all good.  It took me about 30 minutes to install this dishwasher.  It is a pretty basic... no frills dishwasher.  It has 3 buttons on the front.  On/off, program(to select the cleaning program), and Start/Stop.  Basically turn the unit ON and select your cleaning program then hit START.  After this it does its thing.  It actually cleans really well.  No leftover food particles stuck to our dishes!  The top rack has its own cleaning jets which is nice.  Our old one did not have this feature.  The tub is stainless steel which cleans easy.  I really like the removable filter.  Easy to remove in about 2 seconds, empty and large food particles and your good to go for the next cleaning.  Again our old one did not have this and the food just got grinded up and deposited on our dishes.  The dishwasher holds a good amount even though it is small.  We have 3 kids and we can \"squeeze\" all our dishes in---minus and large pots.  Since the top has its own spray, you can pack the bottom and top pretty full.  When the clean cycle is done it will beep to let you know this.  It does have a heated dry which works \"ok\", not great...just \"ok\".  I usually let it dry for a bit then turn the unit off.  Yes, you have to push the button to turn the unit off.  It will not run when it's done but in order to shut the lights off on the front you have to manually shut it off.  Yes, the front is very thin but I do not have any dents yet.  I even smacked it with a cabinet door handle on install.  It cleans very easily.  The dishwasher has a \"basic\" look.  It is not fancy looking.  If that is was your are looking for, continue looking!  If you are looking for a basic 18 inch dishwasher that is priced at the low end of the spectrum....then this dishwasher is for you.  I would purchase this one again because it cleans pretty well.  Not sure how long it will last because of the brand but it's working great now!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3860, "id": 269297, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 579, "len_tokens": 668, "text": "This drain pump is an excellent replacement in every respect. I had an issue where my Samsung washer did not empty out the water after a load was run and an error code halted the process. In my situation, the water level was slightly below the door, but it would not unlock due to the water sensor. Here are the steps I followed to drain the water and replace the pump:\n\n1) Unplug the washer. Removed two screws and removed the top of the washer. Removed a small tube from the water level sensor (check YouTube for videos) and then plugged the washer back in. Press stop to open the washer door, removed the wet clothes (placed them in the bath tub) and removed the water using my shop vac. Unplug the washer again. Reattach the water level sensor hose and make sure the clamp is secure. Replace the top of the washer and secure with screws. NOTE: If your tub has water that is ABOVE the bottom of the door, do not open it using this process or the water will stream out! Instead, you may want to use containers to catch the water when removing the pump hoses, but it will be the FULL amount of water in the tub and can be equally or more messy - just carefully weigh your options!\n\n2) Turn off the water supply, remove the drain pipe, pull out the washer and remove the back of the washer with two screws. The pump is attached to the frame using three screws and located below the washer drum. Although I used a shop vac to drain the drum, there was still water in the hoses to and from the pump. So I used a 6\" x 9\" tupperware pan to catch water from each hose as I removed them. The hoses have pressure clamps you can release by hand or using pliers. There were also metal clamps that kept the power connection from coming loose with vibration, I removed these carefully.\n\n3) After removing both hoses and the power cable assembly, I removed the three screws securing the pump to the frame and they were extremely tight. I used a socket wrench to remove them after breaking them free with a couple hammer taps - if you use a screwdriver, be careful not to strip the top. My old pump was not clogged and still turned freely, but no longer was pumping out water. I emptied out the tupperware containers and cleaned up any splashed water in the bottom of the washer.\n\n4) I installed the new pump and reattached the hoses and power, following the reverse process to the old pump removal. After firmly attaching the hoses all the way down on each connection, make sure the hose clamps are positioned in the middle of the hoses.\n\n5) I placed several paper towels under the pump and hose connections and (with the back still open) I reconnected the drain, turned on the water supply, plugged in the power and ran two empty loads (rinse only) to test the new pump. The pump drained out the water perfectly and I could not find any water on the paper towels or either hose connection. I removed the paper towels, reattached the back with two screws and re-positioned the washer. Done!\n\nI hope this helps anyone needing to replace the same pump, this will save you 75% of the cost of a service call.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3861, "id": 269331, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 519, "len_tokens": 623, "text": "My husband and I just bought a house with a Samsung front-loading washer with SilverCare and VRT (no idea what model number it is), and this drain pump worked perfectly!  I tried to run a cleaning cycle on the washer, but the cycle got stuck when it was time to drain, and the display flashed \"nd\" - a quick search revealed that \"nd\" on the display means that the washer is not draining.  I could hear the drain pump making noise, but it clearly wasn't working properly.\n\nThanks to a couple of youtube videos and the fantastic review on here by RDLMV, I was able to get the old drain pump out.  A couple of additional tips/suggestions - WEAR GLOVES!  I saw that note on RDLMV's review but thought \"that can't be necessary, I'll just be careful...\" and while I was careful, I did manage to cut my wrist in a couple places.  Also, I didn't have a pump or anything to drain the washer, so I bailed it out as best I could with a gallon size ziploc bag (really the best thing for bailing because it doesn't scratch the inside of the drum and also is flexible enough get most of the water out, unlike a plastic cup).  Then, once I got the back panel off and could access the drain pump, I disconnected the black hose (the one connecting the drum and the drain pump) first, and immediately stuck the end of the black hose in my ziploc bag.  I still ended up with some water on the floor, but managed to catch about 3/4 of a gallon in my ziploc bag.  If you disconnect the gray hose first (the one that goes from the drain pump to the wall) you'll have to catch water coming out of the drain pump, and it's harder to get a bag in there to catch water at that angle.\n\nMy existing drain pump was totally messed up - I think the prior owners of the house must have been tossing handfuls of rocks and gravel in their washing machine because the impellers (little propeller-looking pieces on the inside that spin around and push water out) were COMPLETELY worn down.  There was also a lot of sediment in both the hose going into and leading out of the drain pump, and in the drain pump itself.  Replacement of the drain pump was super easy - once you get the hoses disconnected, there are three hex shaped bolts you'll need to remove (I'd recommend a small socket wrench, because there isn't a ton of space to work inside the washer), and then you need to disconnect the power.  You don't need to disconnect the wires or anything - the entire white socket piece with the wires and the little red cover disconnects from the drain pump pretty easily and in one piece.  Reconnecting everything is also easy, and the power supply only fits into the receptacle on the drain pump in one direction, so you don't have to remember whether the blue or black wire was on the right/left. :)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3862, "id": 269348, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 527, "len_tokens": 674, "text": "I didn't buy this pump through Amazon, but wanted to leave some tips for others who had the same problem as me.\n\nSamsung WF328AAW /XAA,  SAMSUNG DC96-01414A Drain Pump\nFirst, yes, this is a stupid design for a washer where a loose clasp can get stuck in the drain pump rendering it completely useless.  I tried calling Samsung and they were zero help.  I called a couple of local repair shops and they all said it'd take weeks to get a replacement pump, oh and the repair cost would be ~$250.  $100 for the part and ~$150 for the repair.  I also asked them how difficult it'd be and they said it's very complicated and you have to take the whole top of the washer off, etc etc.  Not sure if he was confusing my model with another, but this certainly wasn't the case.\n\n1)  First, turn pull the plug on the machine and get access to the back panel.  There are 2 screws holding a large access panel in place.  Once the panel comes off you can see the drain pump in plain site and very accessible.\n\n2)  Make sure you have a bunch of towels.  What I did was I took the drain pipe and pulled it down as flat as possible so it drains out as much water (even without pumping).  If you have something that can pump the water out, even better.  Short of either, you'll need to have a bunch of towels ready.\n\n3)  The drain pump has an inlet, an outlet (water, not power), a power connector and 3 large screws.  I first took off the outlet hose and took off the clamp (squeeze with your hand).  Water will leak if you didn't pump it out.  I then took off the inlet hose (again, water will leak, even more then before).  I then took off the power.  The three screws are very tight.  You'll need either a big handle phillips screw driver or you can use a socket wrench.\n\n4) Once you take everything off, the pump comes right out.  Look inside and see if anything was stuck.  In my case, an undergarment clasp jammed it.  I removed it and put the pump back in and plugged everything back.\n\nHere's a word a warning, when you clasp the hoses back, make sure the hose is all the way in and the clasps are in the right spot.  Screw it back in and plug the power in.  There's a flap that makes the power connector access a bit easier.  You just took the flap off.  You should also test the washer before closing up the back and moving the washer back into place.  Because in my case, my clasps weren't on right and it started leaking.\n\nPro tip...wear gloves and put a towel over the exposed metal running across the bottom of the access panel.  It's sharp.  I speak from experience.\n\nTotal time, 90 mins.  But if I had to do it again, probably less than 30...and if I didn't have to clean up the blood from my wrist, probably 20.\n\nGood luck and hope this saves someone $800!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3863, "id": 270316, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 516, "len_tokens": 622, "text": "I've never owned an ice maker before, so I didn't have any expectations going into this. That said, I'm pretty pleased with it overall. There was virtually no setup, but it was kind of tricky to find a place for it with 6 inches of girth all the way around the unit. It has a cool, futuristic look to it, making it appear that it does something much more exciting than making ice. It would look even cooler if I didn't have to stick it in the middle of my counter! It does tend to get warm on the outside during use. Not warm enough to burn, but pretty warm. The manual instructs that you keep it away from heated appliances, like your stove, radiators, etc. That was easy enough to do.\n\nGetting started was as simple as turning it on and filling it with water. Just a tip, don't fill it to the \"max\" fill line. It won't overflow or anything, but when the water is switching between the chambers, the ice tray will fill with water, causing some of the ice to melt a bit (or a lot). Even after I scooped out some of the water to keep this from happening, the small size ice \"bullets\" were melting a fair bit just sitting in there until there was enough on top to insulate them. Once the tray is half full, the melting wasn't an issue at all.\n\nThe machine makes 8 bullet-shaped ice about every 5 minutes when it's been running for a while. It seems to take longer when first starting up, I assume because it needs to get to the optimal temperature. The manual warns that high temperatures will slow the machine down. I'm curious to know how it will perform in the summer. After 2 hours, I had 1/4 gallon freezer bag worth of ice. That's an almost full ice tray, meaning every 2 hours you're going to have to empty it or the sensor will kick in and stop producing ice. That's not a big deal, but if you were hoping you could let this run for days and stockpile your ice, that won't really work.\n\nOverall, I'm pleased with it's performance. It makes uniform, bullet-shaped ice with hollow centers and domed tops. It makes them fairly quickly. I wish the unit wasn't so big though. Only about 1/5 of the machine actually holds the ice it makes, and this is a very large unit, much bigger than my Keurig K60 coffee machine to give you an idea. If you're going to have it on the counter, be prepared that it's over a foot deep and even taller from base to top. It would probably be more practical on a table. I recommend that if you're planning to let it run at night, not to put it anywhere near your bedroom as it's quite loud when the ice dumps into the tray. It drove my son nuts so I had to turn it off before bed, even though our rooms are a good 60 feet from the kitchen.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3864, "id": 270737, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 556, "len_tokens": 673, "text": "I've had my Panda for a little over a month now, and have washed with it about every other day. I live in a small apartment in an ancient house, so putting in a washer and dryer would cost thousands. I researched a lot before choosing this washer, so here is what I've learned that you need to know:\n1. The washer is incredibly easy to install and move around, it's very lightweight.\n2. I don't have a place set up for it yet, so I just put it in my bathtub when I'm washing and fill it up with my shower head---I have one of those massaging shower heads that has a setting that is pretty much like a hose pipe stream.\n3. Fill it up halfway with water and Soap before adding clothes. The full mark is right below the filter which is blue on mine.\n4. Expect to wash about 1/4 of a \" normal\" load.\n5. You set it on wash with the dail, turn the timer to how long you'd like it to agitate, and go! The washer will spin and stop, then spin and stop until the timer goes off.\n6. Don't put too many clothes in, you'll know if it won't spin while washing.\n7. If something is really dirty or heavily soiled wash those things alone and on longest setting.\n8. If a garment is fuzzy like a sweater, wash it alone, or all your clothes will wear that fuzzy thing.\n9. This washer is awesome, but, you do have to have some patience. You have to fill it up, wash, drain it, fill it up again, rinse it, and then spin the load, possibly having to split your load in half according to its size to spin, then you hang them up to dry. But, you're not going to the creepy laundromat, and it saves loads of money.\n10. Be careful spinning, too little and the machine will bounce around, same with too much clothing. The spinner should be mostly full with much of the water squeezed out already. When it spins it should be almost silent.\n11. The spinner takes out more water than a conventional washer, and it also can wrinkle, already wrinkle prone clothes, and again, if you spin something fuzzy with the rest, everything will come out needing a lint brush.\n12. Since the spinner is so efficient, most clothes do not take very long to dry by hang dry standards. Overnight at most.\n13. I take mine out of the tub and put it on the floor in my bathroom when I'm done.\n14. There is only myself and my partner, and washing every other day seems to keep everything clean.\n15. It gets clothes really clean if you don't overload.\n16. It does have an almost fuel-type smell when it is working. It reminds me of my Dad's old lawnmower repair shop. I like the smell personally, but don't worry, your clothes will not smell like that and it only smells a little while washing.\n17. It's very satisfying!\n\nOverall I give it 4 stars since it does take more manual labor than a regular washer, but is still amazing since you are at home and your clothes are clean and you don't have to brave snow to make it so. ", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3865, "id": 270756, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 530, "len_tokens": 616, "text": "I bought this somewhere else but I LOVE this machine. if you take it with a grain of salt that it is portable and not perfect.... you will love it. Things I learned and adjust to mentally before attempting to wash anything...... It does small loads so i deal with it. Maybe like 5 pieces of light weight clothing and a few socks or underwear thrown it. When you switch a full washer load to the spinner it take 2 separate spin load to do the one wash load in spinner. If you do long jeans its only gonna take like 2 pairs of adult size. Forget even attempting towels unless your desperate and have small towels. in tat case you can do maybe 2 lightweight bath towels tops. They just get to darn heavy loaded with water. Use a TEASPOON of LOW sudsing HE detergent TOPS , no more. Anymore and you will do like 3 rinses and possibly more depending on how much soap. Seems crazy but its true. Even one teaspoon of regular detergent will suds you up like crazy if all you have is regular I would do like half a teaspoon. Things like bras  or delicates need to go in a mesh bag first or you will have a twisted ripped mess .  DON't trust the hoses on your sink faucet end. Yeah yeah yeah they might hold one time and not the next... just hold it at the faucet end while filling , it only takes like 2 minutes. If you can use this IN the bathtub all will be golden. No worry about spills or mishaps or hoses slipping. have a hand held shower head and your REALLY golden for easy filling. DON't forget to get something like a rubbermaid tote lid to elevated bottom a bit from bottom of tub to avoid over soaking base too much. HUGE TIP..... if you use soap correctly and don't over soap... you can EASILY just do your rinse in the spinner. Just switch your water hose to the spinner side and run water in the first part of your spin cycle then drain for the rest of your spin cycle. This saves the whole step of having to do the whole rinse do-over after washing in the washing side. This step only works for mostly  NON HEAVY items and not over suds stuff. Last but not least...Are you short on SPACE or storage? Keep this thing on a porch or patio or balcony. Just keep covered in a large tote or  something  to keep elements out. You can even RUN IT outside if you use a bucket to fill the wash side and use a big bucket for the drain when draining. I found a big Rubbermaid cooler works great if you have one of those anyway. So all that said... YES its somewhat a pain but YES does the job if you need it and figure out your best plan of attack with trial and error. GREAT for doing even your lightweight stuff at home to save moneyf and then saving your heavy stuff for the  laundromat. IT REALLY DOES WASH AND SPIN WELL...if used correctly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3866, "id": 270794, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 501, "len_tokens": 673, "text": "It works extremely well. The only caveat is that since this model drains by gravity, you absolutely HAVE to use it on top of a counter next to your kitchen or bathroom sink. The more expensive Panda unit may have a pump so it can be used on the floor, but this one must be put on the counter. Don't try to lift it when filled--it's about 28 pounds empty, and probably 40-50 when filled.\n\nProcess:\n1. Place unit on top of counter next to sink and plug it into an outlet. Make sure the drain tube is hooked to its hanger in an upward position.\n2. Turn middle dial to \"wash\" (keeps drain closed).\n3. Put a couple tablespoons of soap and 3-4 items in the left side basin. It will hold 2 pairs of pants and a sweater plus undies and socks, or two towels and a bunch of washcloths, etc.\n4. Hook plastic tubing to your faucet and the input on the top left. Hold tubing in place while filling the machine (it's plastic, not rubber, so it doesn't create tight suction). Keep the lid open and only fill it halfway or less with water; otherwise it may leak because the agitation is quite strong.\n5. Turn off water and disconnect the tubing when basin is one-third-to-half full. Turn left dial (wash timer) to about 5 minutes, unless your clothes are very soiled. Machine will alternate agitation in both directions. You can leave the lid up and watch if you'd like, although it may splash you a bit, like sitting too close to Shamu at SeaWorld.\n6. Drape the drain tube into the sink and turn middle dial to \"drain.\"\n7. Turn middle dial to \"wash\" again and re-fill the tub as in step 4 to rinse. Turn wash timer to about 2-3 minutes as rinsing is quicker.\n8. Repeat step 6 to drain.\n9. Items will be very wet. Leave drain pipe open in sink. Move 1-2 items to the right side tub, which is a spinner chamber. Place the plastic disk on top of the items, close lid and turn right dial (spin timer) to 2-3 minutes. You'll see water coming out the drain as it spins.\n10. Clothes will be slightly moist/damp, but not wet anymore. Hang dry. Repeat step 9-10 for additional items.\n\nIt takes about 15-20 minutes to complete each load at first, although I'm sure I'll get quicker with practice. And my clothes smell fresh and seem to be perfectly clean.\n\nI use this gullwing drying rack, although I only paid $33 for it in 2012. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00383O2UU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1\n\nI would definitely recommend this product to other apartment dwellers, especially if your alternative is to pay $2.50 or more a load to the sharks running your complex laundromat. At approximately $200, this machine will pay for itself in 3-4 months of use, and the only things I won't be able to wash in it are big blankets and large, heavy coats.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3867, "id": 271261, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 561, "len_tokens": 651, "text": "After reading reviews I was very leary about purchasing this due to the numerous scratch and dent comments.  My hood arrived a day early which was awesome.  The box was in perfect shape and I was very hopeful that I would have no scratch/dent issues.  I unpacked the box with the aid of a helper so all the pieces were removed carefully.  Everything looked great on initial inspection and all the stainless surfaces were covered with sticky plastic wrap.  Laid everything out in prep and read through instructions before beginning.  The instructions are extremely vague.  A simple image of screws going up into the ceiling through the bracket not noting what screws to use (although there are only 4 screws large enough).  Also it comes with wall anchors but I can't figure out why because there is no way it would support the weight on anchors alone.  I had my vent, electric and blocking on the inside of the ceiling ready to go however the blocking didn't line up with the bracket.  I installed the provided screws, two of which into a stud, two into the provided anchors because I was just missing the stud.  As soon as I allowed the weight of the hood to pull on the screws the two in the anchors began to pull out from the ceiling.  Those two screws had to be replaced with the metal anchors that butterfly open after up inside the ceiling to provide the proper amount of strength.  Back to the instructions... it basically says \"install the bracket and installed the supports\" but doesn't elaborate.  So with a little bit of DIY experience or common sense you can figure it out but the instructions really stink.\n\nThe plastic vent pipe provided that connects the fan to the existing vent pipe is too large to snugly fit the top of their own hood.  The instruction photo vaguely shows what looks like a hose clamp on the vent connecting to the hood however there was not one provided.  So I installed it and used duct tape to seal the pipe to the hood.\n\nAfter everything else was completed I began to pull the sticky plastic off (since I wanted that on until the last second so I wouldn't scratch the stainless) and I noticed about 4-5 dents/dings on each side of the square shrouding.  Upon review of how the item was packed, I am certain that the dents came from the metal bracket pieces that are wrapped in foam and tape and just dropped into the cavity of the shroud during shipping so it allows the metal bracket to rattle around inside and dent the shroud from the inside out.  After all of this work I am debating on if I have the energy to take it all back down to return it.  I am going to first attempt to deal with the manufacturer and see if they will send a new dented piece.\n\nThe fan is ALOT quieter then I expected.  Some people complained about it being loud but I did not find that to be the case.  If you know the sound  that an over-the-range microwave hood fan makes you will think this is 50% quieter.  I am extremely pleased with the look and operation, just disappointed it was dented and that the instructions leave a lot to be desired.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3868, "id": 272566, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 533, "len_tokens": 637, "text": "My family is kind of nuts about ice.  Last year for Mother's Day we gave my wife a huge commercial ice maker.  It makes the small \"nugget ice\" (also called Sonic ice, named after the Sonic drive-in restaurants).  Our ice maker makes a couple hundred pounds of ice per day (not that we consume that much every day).  Our little nugget ice is great for quickly cooling down drinks, but it also melts very quickly and dilutes the drink.\n\nThe ice from this set of ice balls couldn't be more opposite from what our commercial ice maker makes.  These big ice balls barely melt at all, depending on how fast or slowly you drink your beverage.  It's all a matter of surface area.  If you think of this ice ball a little larger than a tennis ball, it has a certain surface area.  If you were to cut it in half it would add about half as much surface area (the area of the sphere, plus the two areas of the circles caused by the two new halves).  If my math is right and this ice ball has a radius of about an inch and a half, I think the surface area would be about 28 inches.  If you cut it in half, you would have two additional surfaces on each of the hemispheres with surfaces areas of about seven inches each, or 14 inches total.  So the sphere is 28, and cutting it in half adds about half that, or 14 inches, totaling about 42 inches.  If you keep chopping these parts up until they equal the size of my nugget ice, you have approximately a WHOLE BUNCH of surface area that's eager to melt into your drink (pardon my round figures).\n\nAnyway, setting aside the nerdy math that I'm not even very good with, it's simple enough to say that less surface area means less melting.  Less melting means less diluting of your drink with water.  I guess the most perfect insurance against dilution is those rocks that you put in your freezer, but I haven't had such good luck with those.\n\nAfter nursing a good glass of whiskey for about a half hour, my big ball of ice was mostly still intact.  If I'd used cubes or the nuggets that my machine makes, the ice would have completely melted in that same time.  So the ice balls definitely do a better job of cooling the drink without diluting it.\n\nAs far as making the ice, these round ice molds couldn't be any easier.  The recipe for actually making the ice is a time honored tradition that has probably already been passed down through the generations in your own family, so you don't have much to worry about.  There's also a easy to see fill line, so you shouldn't have any trouble figuring out how much of that \"secret ingredient\" to add to make your ice.\n\nSo if you're a purist who likes a cold glass of liquor but doesn't want a lot of water in it, then this is a good solution for you and a fun conversation piece.\n\nI was provided this item for review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3869, "id": 272967, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 577, "len_tokens": 654, "text": "Our washer is quiet again!  I have lots of experience replacing bearings on old farm equipment, and these bearings definitely are made of good hard steel and expect them to last longer than the rest of the washer parts.  After taking everything apart, you get to see how well the rest of your machine is holding up, and ours looked to be in really good condition. I recommend watching this video [...] first to see what all you need to remove to get the tub out of the washer. The seller will reply quickly to answer your e-mails for help on how to do the job.\nIn that video I listed and the videos the seller has, they all mention that the bearings came off and went on fairly easily.  For my machine, that was not the case.  If the rear tub does not easily come off of the hub, you will need a small 2x4 piece of wood, 4lb hammer, and another person or object to hold the tub from moving.  Then hit the spindle as hard as you can with the heavy hammer, using the 2x4 to protect the softer metal of the spindle.  The spindle is made of a softer metal and if you hit another metal on it directly you will deform it.  Once you get to the point that the 2x4 can no longer push the spindle, then get a big socket or something that will cover a large area of the end of the spindle to get it all the way through the outside bearing.  The inside bearing was stuck on the spindle, and would not pry off.  The best way to get it off was to get a bearing puller (can borrow for free from Autozone and probably other auto part stores).  Be sure to screw the bolt back into the end of the spindle before using the bearing puller to protect the threads of the soft metal of the spindle. Use some emery cloth to sand off the rust on the spindle and to fix any damage you may have done on the spindle, and add a light coat of grease to prevent more rusting and help things to go back together.\nThe instructions will also tell you to put both bearings into the tub and then insert the spindle.  If yours was difficult to take apart like mine, you will not be able to get the spindle through the outside bearing this way.  Instead, only put the inside bearing and seal into the tub (and don't use the old bearing to do this because it will get stuck and you will have to hit it back out). The outside bearing will have to be put into place after you have put the spindle back through the tub.  Using the bolt, washers, and belt pulley will help you to gently move the bearing into place, because beating on it with a hammer will be difficult to do gently and will push the spindle back out of the inside bearing.  Place the bearing against the spindle and then screw the bolt in as far as you can, then take the bolt back off and use the pulley as a spacer and screw the bolt back in again. This will get the bearing really close to being set in place.  Then you can hammer on the bearing until it makes the sound that it is against a solid backing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3870, "id": 276271, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 519, "len_tokens": 624, "text": "NorthAmerican HVAC\n\nMy apologies for not responding sooner there were far more pressing matters I\nneeded to attend to.\n\n1. I will not be sending the unit back via your reluctantly issued RMA\nwhich I would have to pay for anyway.  But hey thanks for the warm and fuzzy invite.\n\n2. WHY?: In your first response you encouraged me to install the unit stating\nthe only way you would issue a RMA would be for me to take photos of the\nunit not fitting or not working in my freezer.\n\nI quote NA-HVAC: \"The IM6 is a compatible replacement for WR30X0327.\nYou may only need the ice-maker out of the kit. If this item does not fit,\nwe will need photos that show the new ice-maker compared in the freezer.\nWe will then need to issue you a RMA number accordingly. \"\n\nWhich of course you knew would violate your own return policy.\n\nI recommend all future customers of this company read their policies\nfirst before making the decision to purchase items from them.\n\n[...]\n\nSo...In response to me filing a claim with Amazon you sent me a RMA which\nyou knew you would refuse to honor. Thank you so much.\n\n3. The initial issue was that NorthAmerican HVAC sent me ( without so\nmuch as an email to me) a different product from what I ordered.\nI ordered a WR30X0327 - 130.00 exact replacement ice maker but was sent an IM6 86.00\ndollar compatible ice maker.\n\nAnd again I want to make this point clear that at no time did you contact me to ask if sending me the compatible was ok with me.\nThis is a classic bait and switch IMHO.\n\n4. You have yet to even acknowledge this was unfair to me - so I have assume\nthis is a normal way of business for NorthAmerican HVAC.\n\n5. For the benefit of readers of this review - Per HVAC's first suggestion:\nDid it fit? Yes with some adjustments. It is a little smaller and produces ice slower with less cubes than the one I had ordered but it\ndoes work, which I did acknowledge in my claim.\n\n6. What did I ask for? I asked for a reduced price since the compatible\nice maker sells routinely for a much lower price - even right on Amazon\nitself.\n\nHad I wanted the cheaper product I would have ordered it - but\nNorthAmerican HVAC decided they would make this decision for me without\nmy consent. How nice of them.\n\n7. Would I personally have anything to do with this company? Heck no I would\nnot and I wished now that I had done more research into this company's policies before ordering something from them.\nI will be more diligent with purchases going forward.\n\n8. Moral of this story: I paid for a steak but got a burger instead and was told the burger was\ncompatible. Well I guess they are both protein. Right?\n\n9. A copy of this email will be posted as a review of my purchasing experience with NorthAmerican HVAC.\n\nThank you for time and consideration.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3871, "id": 280306, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 520, "len_tokens": 643, "text": "This seems like such a simple premise - but I was very disappointed with this product.  I figured that there must be SOMETHING on the market that allowed you to \"paint\" over those rusty spots on your old dishwasher racks, and I found out about this product here on Amazon.  I actually bought it from our local Home Depot.\n\nA few of the \"lowlights\" of this product:\n\n1. This material is highly toxic in it's liquid form, and it's vapors are harmful.  I suggest using it in winter - so you can do it outside and have it cure adequately.  Unfortunately, we did it in summer, and had to do it inside the house.\n\n2. The small applicator brush that is attached to the inside of the cap is USELESS.  It is the softest-bristle brush they could possibly find - and, as such, it makes it almost completely useless when trying to accurately brush on liquid vinyl (which is what this product basically is) to a small metal prong.  The brush does not move the produce around - and instead sort of pushes it in various unacceptable directions.  You WILL need a more sturdy brush.\n\n3. This product is a liquid - and prongs are vertical.  As such, gravity inevitably takes effect before the product has a chance to dry, and runs down the prong a ways.  This also makes the product thinner on the rust spot (which is typically on the head of the prong) than originally intended.\n\n4. The consistency of the product (sort of a cross between congealed ketchup and snot) makes it VERY difficult to apply neatly.  Forget about being neat or it looking neat.\n\n5. The product dries HARD, not RUBBERY.  As such, even though it may provide protection to your dishes from the rust spots on your prongs, it will itself scratch/mark other more delicate items such as wine glasses.  It leaves a powdery white compound on our glasses which has to be rubbed off with a cloth after cleaning.  Which also makes me wonder just how \"carcinogenic\" it actually is (\"this product is known in the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects\" etc. etc.).\n\n6. One bottle is only enough to coat two racks twice (at least if your racks are like ours - and each and every prong is rusted on the tip).\n\n7. In general, two to three coats of this product are required to effectively cover bad rust spots.  This will take you approximately two to three days - assuming you work full time like us.\n\n-----------------------------------------------\n\nIn short - do yourself a favor and buy the pre-formed prong covers (slip-ons) instead.  It might be more expensive - but it'll be worth it for the days of your lives that you save from this horrid, monotonous, tedious task - which ultimately leaves you with a dishwasher rack situation that is only approximately 2% better than the previous one.\n\nAfter spending three days messing about with this product and our racks - we intend to just go out tomorrow and purchase a new dishwasher.\n\nNot recommended.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3872, "id": 280396, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 504, "len_tokens": 623, "text": "Why am I scream typing? Well, because this dang product gave me asthma.\nWere clean people. We clean the lint trap on the dryer religiously. There cant be that much crap in the vent, right?\n FREAKING WRONG \nIt all started simply enough. I read some reviews, got the cleaning kit, read the directions, and went to town. Started by cleaning inside first, sending the brush down the duct to the outside of our house. Even got the blower and put him to work [thanks to a tip from another reviewer]. Meh, some junk came out, but I wasn't expecting a ton, so I moved outside.\nEw. All the junk came out. Ok, this thing works. Ran it through the duct a couple more times... oh hey, grab the blower and jam the nozzle up the duct too, for good measure. Cool, Im done. Let me go back inside and reconnect everything. \nYou know when you burn something in the oven and that faint amount of smoke creates a haze in your kitchen? Ha. Thats what I was greeted with when I came back inside. Except I didn't have anything in the oven... and Im perfect, so I never burn anything.\nWalked in to the laundry room and the haze is now a thick fog. I live in the south, so humidity isn't anything new, but this was late evening, and we hadnt had rain in about 6 hours (which must set some record, as weve recently negotiated a break in the rain hostage weve been in for the past 2 weeks). What in the fresh hll is going on?\nI move to the back of the dryer and there are mounds of lint just waiting to exact their revenge. The coughing starts. My contacts are all of a sudden plastered to my eyeballs, and Im considering my options on emergency help since my husband is out of town and the dog doesnt know CPR.\nDo you see the broom in my pictures? Hes dead, laying on the floor. He straight up said, eff this, Im out. The attachment for my sweeper vac is holding on for dear life. Theres dust EVERYWHERE. I saw a mouse packing his belongings and move his mouse family out of the peephole in the baseboard.\nIm still coughing as I write this. And I have a couple lessons to share:\n1) if you think you're clean, maybe you are, but this Deflecto kit will check your ego real fast.\n2) maybe place a bucket or something over your inside duct if you're going to use a blower for additional assistance on the outside vent. Perhaps this may have prevented dust and dirt from flying everywhere.\n3) ... or maybe don't use a blower? This kit does a pretty good job on its own. Or use a blower. Whatever. Get asthma while trying to do chores. Have a nice life.\n\nThis product works. Five stars. Well made. Good value for the price. Easy to use. And all that jazz.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3873, "id": 281910, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 524, "len_tokens": 610, "text": "We've only had this fridge installed for a couple days, but I already love it. Firstly, installing it was WAY easier than the old fridge (which was a 13 year old Samsung). They have improved the ease of removing and re-installing doors 100-fold (at least). Since the unit can't get in the house without removing the doors and re-installing them, that was a big deal.\n\nBeyond that, the unit is beautiful and has great features. The ice maker filled up very quickly (once I ran the water for a while to fill up the water line). The \"flex drawer\" is way more useful than I thought. It has plenty of space for drinks and also items like yogurts that used to fall out of the fridge and break on the floor, splattering everywhere. So that's a nice feature. The main refrigeration area is really well laid out so that you can use the space effectively. The shelf that flips up and the other one that retracts make it so much easier when there's a tall item. You can fit it without having to take everything off the shelf and adjust it. The door shelves are great as well, with some more small and narrow to hold smaller items and make them easier to find (these are the shelves they managed to fit around the ice dispenser area - so there is still storage even in that area - great use of space). The clear plastic also makes items easier to find.\n\nI thought the ice maker would take up too much space in the refrigeration area, but it really isn't an issue at all so far. I thought the freezer would be difficult to organize, as I was used to a side by side. But the freezer has the drawer and the little storage bin on top, plus a separator in the main compartment. So it's really not a problem to keep organized. I didn't even realize that it was going to have a fancy touch screen control panel when I bought it, but my daughter was pretty jazzed about that. The water/ice dispenser is really tall for filling water bottles. The LED lighting is recessed and out of the way, but really brightens up all the spaces. Plus we can use the LEDs in the water dispenser area as a night light.  Lastly, I had heard others complain about how loud their refrigerators are, but this one is barely audible to me when the fan and compressor are running. I was even concerned at first it wasn't working, but it's cooling beautifully!\n\nIt is a little expensive, which is the only downside I've found. But I guess you get what you pay for (I got a really great deal, though, so thanks Amazon)!. Overall, a really great appliance and I'm happy to have it! I don't know about reliability yet, but consumer reports did have Samsung listed as the manufacturer of refrigerators with the lowest number of repairs required of all the manufacturers in their survey. Our old Samsung lasted 13 years, so I feel good about it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3874, "id": 282878, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 536, "len_tokens": 609, "text": "First, let me say that I rated this product as 4 stars instead of 5 only because I have only had it a short time and, given the high percentage of negative reviews, cannot comment on its durability.\n\nI bought this ice maker with serious reservations. None of these counter-top ice makers have received good customer reviews, at least on average.\n\nBut, I have a French door refrigerator with a bottom drawer freezer. It has an icemaker in the door. The icemaker is terrible. Its ice production is pathetic and the icemaker regularly fails to dispense ice even when there is some. It generates half as many ice cubes per cycle compared to most built in icemakers. It is unable to produce sufficient ice for my family.\n\nI tried ice cube trays in the freezer but they take up too much freezer space and take a long time to freeze and are a pain to empty and refill. I thought I would try a stand-alone counter-top ice maker despite the negative customer reviews.\n\nI bought this model about ten days ago. So far it has met expectations. It only makes maybe half a dozen cubes at a time but does so in 7 to ten minutes. The machine makes roughly gum drop shaped cubes with a hole down the center like some of the big commercial ice makers. When made, the ice is only lightly frozen. Also, the machine keeps the water to make new ice cubes and the ice cubes its already made in the same area. That is to say that the machine doesnt have a sub-zero storage area so as soon as the ice is made it starts to melt, albeit very slowly.\n\nPersonally, I don't find this to be a problem. I run the machine for maybe 6 hours and as the machines storage bin becomes full, I just dump the bin into a container in my freezer. Since the ice cubes are relatively soft and coated in unfrozen water, each batch will freeze together a bit but with a light whacking the cubes break up easily. Of course if you're using the ice as its made this issue is irrelevant.\n\nBased on the above, many people might consider this machine to be a poor solution. However, if you compare the cost of this machine to a commercial counter-top machine, the little bit of extra effort is more than compensated by the lower price. My ice needs only require me to run the machine one day out of three and I am very happy with it.\n\nThe other great concern with any of these counter-top ice machines is quality and dependability. Customer reviews reveal a high percentage of machines that are faulty from the start or fail after a very brief period of time. Im afraid this is typical of many Chinese-made products. In defense, I bought the recommended 4-year extended warranty for about 11% of the cost of the ice maker. I have always had a rather dim view of these extended warranties but in this case I thought it warranted and worth a try. If I need to use the extended warranty, I will comment on how it worked out.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3875, "id": 283488, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 483, "len_tokens": 691, "text": "I have a fridge that has NO ICE MAKER.  And for me, ICE is a must.  I chew it.  A lot.  I was a bit worried about this, as they are not cheap.  But, truly, it works VERY NICELY.  Now, it is LARGER than you think.  I purchased a small table to put this on, because; I didn't want it sitting on the table or the counter.  And the little table does nice.  It was only $20.  And it works perfectly for this.\n\nhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BXX8RPM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1\n\nI added photo of my setup, to explain the little table, and ice maker combined.  Realize, you add water to it.  I found a cup that fills the resevoir in one shot, and simply add water that way.  One filling makes a little more than 2-full loads of ice.  And it makes those really fast.\n\nI make the ice, and put it into an ICE BIN in my freezer, then turn this thing off.  That way, it should LAST me a lot longer than it would if you expected it to keep the ice for you.\n\n;O)\nI recommend POWER OFF when you are not making ICE.  It powers up FAST.  And makes ice FAST.  I like it a lot!\n\n2016-DEC-27 Update.\nNever understood the propensity of modern appliances to NEVER FULLY SHUT OFF...  This one, for instance, has a green light that BLINKS non-stop as long as it is \"OFF\".  To me, that's a waste.  So, I purchased a block, grounded, ON/OFF switch, that the cord plugs into, then that plugs into the wall.  That way, I can FULLY turn it off when I'm NOT making Ice.  The way I use it, I make 3-full loads of ice, then shut it off until I am running LOW on Ice again.  So, this thing is OFF most of the time, and ON only about 1-hour 3-times a week.  In my view, it should therefore, last for YEARS using this approach.\n\n2017-SEP-19 Update:\nI've had this now, for almost a year.  Still works VERY WELL.  HOWEVER, a few things I have done to keep it alive...  (1).  I not only turn it OFF, but; I have an inline SWITCH installed, that cuts the power to it all together, when it is not being used.  I truly believe this may have had a positive impact on it's long life.  (2).  I have very HARD water where I live, so; I use the VENDING water ONLY in this thing.  The kind you see at Walmart or other stores, where you can buy a 3-gallon at a time jug.  I am sure it has another positive impact on longevity. (3) I always check the water level BEFORE turning it back on.  So, as long as you treat it nicely, and don't use it more than 2-or-3-days a week, as do I, then; it will last you a very long time!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3876, "id": 283499, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 573, "len_tokens": 673, "text": "I bought this item on April 4th, 2015. I gave it to my mother for her birthday on the 20th. My mom was one of those pains in the ass that couldn't drink water unless it was so cold it was almost frozen. She used to reuse a Poland Spring bottle and put her water in the freezer just long enough to be partially frozen, and then she would crack it so there were ice chips in it. Once we found out using and reusing plastic in that way can release toxins into your body, she started using ice from an ice cube tray. My mom, a cancer patient at that time, eventually began struggling to crack the tray to get the ice out.\n\nSO, I went on Amazon and bought this lovely ice machine. We used it every single day. I loved it! They ice cubes were a great size! I would turn it on every morning before I went to work and within, I would say a half an hour, the whole thing was full of ice. It has a mechanism where it automatically stops making more ice when it's too full. It came with a scoop so my mom could easily fill her Contigo water bottle with ice and sit down to enjoy her paper.\n\nAll in all, I was really pleased with this product...until late April of 2016. All of the sudden, the ice cubes started getting smaller and thinner. Over the course of the two months, the machine will sometimes create ice cubes. Sometimes not at all. When they do make ice cubes they're about the shape and size of a dime. By the time a new load of ice is made and plopped into the tray, the old one has already melted. Sometimes they are so small that they just drip through the tray and into the water. I know I have had it for over a year, but I feel that this type of item should not be one that I have to replace yearly. When I buy a new one, it will NOT be with this company. It is awfully convenient that it broke down JUST after its warranty expired. I generally remain loyal to brands with wonderful products and as much as I loved this machine while it worked, I will never buy another Igloo product again.\n\n*UPDATE*\n\nSo as of 10-29-2017, and on my second version of this ice machine, I am TOTALLY grossed out! So, other than this ice machine, I also have a bubbler with a filtration system in it. About a week ago, my water started tasting a bit weird. I replaced my bubblers filter, I cleaned out the faucets, washed my Tervis bottle a few times. No luck. Then, I opened up my ice machine and though it looked fine, there was a bit of a fragrance coming from it. I washed it and OH MY GOD it took a whole roll of paper towels and all sorts of gunk came off the inner walls. Because of the internal shape, I couldn't clean all of it. I am mortified at how disgusting it is! I went over the manual a few times since and NOWHERE does it state how to clean it, or even that it has to be cleaned at all! It has been cleaned on many occasions but this definitely takes the cake.. I am so disgusted!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3877, "id": 284964, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 516, "len_tokens": 627, "text": "VERY VERY Unhappy with this item.\n\nShipping very rude and the service to get a refund a bunch of RED TAPE STILL WAITING for refund. I bought set and they would only take back the washer. The matching dryer TAKES TO LONG TO DRY. Since my washer would not work from day 1. I had to go to laundromat to get my clothes wash then take them home just to find out that the matching dryer takes 2 1/2 hours to dry. NO JOKE!!!!!! Since I bought the set I was told by evVive Home that if maytag comes to service it could cost me $500 out of my pocket??? ANd I would have to pay for return shipping over $200\n\nLet's do the math together\n$500 + $200 out of my pocket for a NEW ITEM and then the amount I paid for the set = $\"lost money and a waste of time.\"\nAmazon help me file Your Amazon.com A-to-z Guarantee Claim report. Well AMAZON did side with the company and now I HAVE A 150lb dryer as a paper weight.\n\nThis is the email response that was given to me as of today\nWednesday, February 13, 2013 5:41 AM\n\nHello from Amazon.com.\n\nWe are writing to follow up with you regarding the Guarantee claim that was filed for order. We have checked into the matter and a reimbursement for the full amount of washer was completed on Feb 13th.\n\nWe have confirmed that the seller who fulfilled this order has a posted returns policy, stating that the item(s) purchased cannot be returned under these circumstances.\n\nFor your reference, this seller's returns policy states:\"You can return your order within 15 days from the purchase date.\"\n\nIn response to your claim, the seller who fulfilled this order has declined to accept the return of this dryer. Amazon.com strives to maintain a marketplace that is fair to both buyers and sellers. Since this policy was available for review prior to the date your order was placed, we are unable to compel the seller to accept a return. As a result, your claim has been closed.\n\nIf this is a defective or damaged item, it is possible that it is under warranty with the manufacturer. We advise that you contact them for assistance. In many cases, they are willing to repair or replace defective products.\n\nThank you for choosing Amazon.com.\n\nAGAIN BEWARE OF THIS COMPANY IN SELLING YOU ANYTHING. STILL WAITING FOR REFUND which will not be 100%.\n\nIf you are reading this and would like to buy a washer / dryer with your tax refund do not buy from this company or Amazon.\n\nYour best bet is to go on Craigslist or your closest retail outlet such as Menards, Sams Club etc... I am sure they would refund you 100% or a different model that works. Never again would I buy any appliances from a website.\n\nFor those who are marking a 100% rating, \"must work for the company and just blogging to make you think you are getting a great deal.\"\n\nI am 100% unhappy.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3878, "id": 284969, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 529, "len_tokens": 641, "text": "Purchasing large house appliance is always a difficult decision. As for cloth washers, I have not seeny any brand, or any particular model that people were very happy with. But we live and we'll have to buy the appliance. I can't just take my clothes to the local coin laundry to wash.\n\nOur 11-year old Kenmore front-loader just died. The drum poppped out of the socket, or may be the belt. I do not know and I do not care. It may cost at least $300 to $400 to fix it. And it is not worth to fix one that is that old. So time for a new one. Based on the online reviews and the price, I decided to buy this one.\n\nI purchased this one from a local home improvement store. I never buy large electronics from online, mainly due to the possibility of return. I ordered yesterday evening and the washer arrived just before noon time. The delivery folks took away the old broken one and installed the new one in no time. This thing is large, about 3-4 deeper than the old Kenmore. The controls are on the front, not on the back like the old Kenmore. I think I prefer the control on the back, but I do not think they make that way any more.\n\nThe first batch run. The machine is quiet. The final spin was so loud before and the laundry floor was shaking. Not this one. The machine does not dance on the floor any more. The clothes come out very dry, and I've not had the problem with long spin cycle. The entire cycle finished in about 1 hour.\n\nThe clothes stayed in dryer in a much shorter time. Before I had to put the dryer setting to towel, but not this one. Normal setting should be fine. When I used the local coin laundry, I had to dry them twice in my dryer.\n\nThe only complaint I have is that, one or two of kids' socks got stuck in the rubber sealer near the front door. This may happen again, but it may be the way front loaders behave.\n\nThis model does not have the steam capability. I do not really care about it.\n\nI paid $899 minus 5% store discount, plus 7% sales tax. To a total about $915. This inludes all free delivery and installation. This is much cheaper than the other better known brands in the store. I just need a basic machine that can wash my clothes. Hope it can be reliable.\n\nUpdate 3/14/2013:\nThis is about 3 months after original purchase. No problem, has been happy with the purchase. The capacity is much larger than the old Kenmore that is smaller than the advertised 3.0CF capacity. We have to wait to get basket full for one wash.\n\nWe had the balancing issue maybe twice. That is caused by the single large towel. It is better to get all the towels together, to minimize the issue. The balancing/sensing goes away, after about extra 20 minutes....\n\nI do not see the needs to spend extra for washing machine. You just need something that is reliable.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3879, "id": 284973, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 510, "len_tokens": 629, "text": "I just bought the set last month(check dryer review, not so good). The first load I washed took almost 2hrs because because the balance sensing could not sense a good enough balance. Since then it must have adjusted because I have not had the problem since. There is also some counter balance noise(loose rolling bearings?) that can be mistaken for something loose but it is normal.\n\nMy favorite features are the Allergen Removal Washer Cycle and the Sanitize. Used together they work great on my sheets and blankets. All my clothes have come out clean so far even though it looks like there is not enough water.\n\nThis machine was 5.0cu.ft. under the old classification but has been bumped down to a more reasonable 4.3cu.ft. in a new classification but don't be fooled, it holds allot! Easily washed my queen size comforter and then some.\n\nI love the square door look!\n\nUpdate 9/3/12:\n\nI am on my 25th load now(single guy). The washer has a sensing/balance problem when washing things other than large blankets. With the machine trying to balance itself at every spin, it will add up to 1.5 hours to the wash time.\n\nMachine only uses 1.5 gallons of extra water to wash clothes. How do I know, I measured the drained water several times. My clothes started smelling not so good even after running the clean cycle. Since the outer drum is plastic, it seems that the dirty water leaches in and stays in the plastic. I had to modify the washer to make it use more water which helped the cleaning. Other then that your just washing you clothes in concentrated dirty water.\n\nLooks to me that the engineers underestimated what it takes to control a drum this big. Weak springs allow the drum to vibrate all over so if the balance is not perfect it will impact the side of the washer. My guess is if the made the springs stronger then the washer will walk across the floor. Commercial washers with drums this size, like in the laundry mats, are bolted to the floor and to each other so none of this is a factor when spinning.\n\nDryer for this pair can not be fixed. Don't buy. This is the first and last Whirlpool/Maytag items I will ever buy.\n\nUpdate 6/20/15:\n\nWell, the washer finally died. After a technician replaced the control and the tub and drum assembly on 4/30/13 things were not much better. The technician called it a POS. After a year of long washes, un-spun clothes the washer started banging on the sides. Last week the washer started making the worst noise ever. I made a movie of the washer and posted on my web site. I took the washer to metal recycling and bought a new Samsung WF45H6300AW. This washer has and does everything the Maytag can not. Short washes, more water for washing, full high speed spin every time and gets the clothes cleaner in my opinion. I am uploading my movie to drummernaut.com/maytag", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3880, "id": 286185, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 495, "len_tokens": 652, "text": "I was looking to replace our over the head microwave/hood combo - which was loud and inefficient sucking the air out (maybe 250-300 CFM max) - for a more powerful range hood in the 900 CFM but most in this range are in the 9-10\" thick and would restrict the cooking space. Found and bought this gem with just 7\" profile, not the slimmest but definitely among the most powerful out there.  I was concerned about the noise loudness due to reviews on other similar systems so besides the mfr. specification, I double checked and noticed that this particular one has an 8\" duct venting as compared to 6\" for the other ones and by physics, the larger vent duct should allow more air flow and less noise.\n\nThe width of the hood itself is 29-5/8\" so you definitely need a 30\" clearance side-to-side to slide it in.  It fits the under cabinet space like a glove even though ours is quite small with just about 10-1/2\" D x 28-3/4\" W opening (under).  I personally think that the provided fasteners (screws/bolts) are on the thin side so I replaced those with 1 size thicker and stronger hardware just in case.  Self-installation was not simple but doable b/c it's made of heavy stainless steel and weighs in the 40-45 lbs so would require two persons (tips: we put it on a pneumatic office chair which sat on a piece of plywood on top of the range to help lift it up in place).  The notice was clear but we installed the wood strips or stringers (10\" x 1-1/2\" x 1/2\") on both sides and in the back as well for better support.\n\nIMPORTANT TIPS:\n- Make sure to install the stringers slightly above the bottom cabinet frame at about 1/8\"-3/16\" so that the mounting brackets can pull the hood all the way up to flush with the bottom cabinet.\n\n- Also when the unit is still on the floor, make sure to set the (4) bolts (that will hold the brackets at the 4 corners) thru the top cover, then add washers and nuts (just a few turns) to hold the bolts in place.  I didn't think about it and it was a pain to get the bolts up thru the tiny holes from underneath with very little clearance and visibility.\n\nIt looks beautiful once in place.  I then downloaded a (free) sound meter app on my iphone and measured the noise levels from 3ft away at three different speeds and got 60dB @ 300 CFM, 64dB @ 600 CFM and 68dB @ 900 CFM - which are not noisy and bothering at all compared to our old one (probably 75-80dB @ 300 CFM as nobody can hear nobody when it was on).  I believed that it could be even quieter if we'd enlarge our venting duct from 7\" to 8\" but not worth the effort for our needs.\n\nWould definitely recommend it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3881, "id": 286324, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 557, "len_tokens": 663, "text": "UPDATE: I just received this in the mail today from Sears where we purchased our Refrigerator. $49.99 with FREE shipping for our filter IF we sign up for auto delivery. Sure makes this look pretty awesome at ~$13.50.\n\nTo be honest, there isn't too much to put here. It fits perfectly in place of the OEM filter. There was a time, not so long ago, when these filters cost a fortune, upwards of $50-75, which seemed exorbitant compared to the fact that many of the appliances they were replacing only cost $500-$750 and you had to replace them every 6 months. In 5 years you could have purchased another fridge. Kind of like printer ink...\n\nNow, they are much more reasonable, but still the OEM Samsung filters are about $35 each in a pack of two ($70 for the pack) so this is still a nice savings.\n\nI will say that I share other reviewers concerns about the safety of products made in China. I'm not really sure as a consumer how I can check the safety of a device like this - in the end, it will have to be up to you whether it is worth it to save $20 vs the very unlikely (in my opinion) possibility that these might be harmful. Or the more possible chance that they might do little or nothing at all. LOL.\n\nMy thinking is;\n\nA.  We have so much coming from China we don't even know half of it - I buy my kids Capri Sun 100% juice and am a kid's drink snob when it comes to giving them Capri Sun drinks (aka, not juice) and I just noticed the other day for the first time, that the concentrate for the juice comes from China. Arghh.\n\nB. In spite of my very real concern about the lack of product safety and government regulation in China, along with a culture that seems to reward performance at any cost, I have to think that this product is less likely to be tainted simply due to the product category and how it is made and what it is supposed to do.  I am hoping/gambling/praying that the worst-case scenario will be that they do nothing to filter.\n\nC.  So far so good... I have not seen or heard of any news stories of this kind of product causing harm to consumers.  I am particularly cautious of things like baby formula, toothpaste and other products that have been spiked with melamine and similar contaminants in the past, as I feel they are more likely to be tainted again due to the way they are manufactured.\n\nSo, with all that said, I think these are probably safe even though they are from China and they are much cheaper than the Samsung filters.\n\nYour mileage may vary.  I think that I may cut mine open to use as a demo rather than actually use it on the fridge now that I have made myself second guess it. LOL... Seriously though, my best guess is that these are a great way to save money and filter your water/ice.  After looking at the product some more, I feel comfortable with it. I sniffed, stared and scrutinized it as much as possible and I am going with my initial opinion that this filter is probably just fine.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3882, "id": 288703, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 593, "len_tokens": 682, "text": "Ok, so this thing is pretty neat. It does exactly what you'd expect it to do. However, it's not without flaws, which is to be expected for a relatively inexpensive appliance. Fortunately, I received mine without much physical damage - it had a couple dings and dents, but they were certainly nothing to cry over. I assembled all the little hoses and pipes pretty easily and ran a small test load as directed by the manual. I thought everything was going smoothly until I soon realized that water was leaking from beneath the machine. After a brief inspection I discovered that the source was at the back of the machine behind a gray panel. Assuming that wiring was behind this panel, I quickly unplugged the machine and screwed off all the piping. Even after shutting it down, the water continued leak without any indication of stopping. I called the customer service number provided and spoke to a very uninterested representative who offered no suggestions, took down my information, and assured me that she'd find a technician in my area and get back to me within 48 hours. Meanwhile, the drum of the washer continued to empty its contents all over my kitchen floor. Needless to say, screw the warranty. I was down to one pair of undies waiting for this thing to arrive, and I refused to haul my clothes to laundry mat in 13 degree weather. Not to mention, I was soaking wet. I decided to screw off the back in efforts to find the culprit. What I found is that the manufacturers failed to assemble the machine completely. I saw water spewing out of a tiny port located on the back of the drum towards the bottom. I also saw a clear tube that was disconnected and dangling on the inside of the machine. I connected it to the small plastic port and the leaking stopped immediately. I tried to wash the load a second time but ran into another problem: the machine wouldn't stop filling. I turned off the machine before it overflowed and decided to google the issue. I found out that the clear plastic pipe is called an \"air dome hose\" - this part tells the machine when to stop filling by use of pressure (or something). When I attached it to the leaking drum it filled with water, therefore, it couldn't properly notify the machine to stop filling. So I drained the machine by using the rinse cycle, disconnected and reconnected the tube to ensure that there was no water left inside, and BOOM...the machine began working just fine. Also, the quick adapter that attaches to the sink leaks. Its not a major problem, but make sure to SLOWLY turn the faucet on or you WILL get sprayed in the face. Also, when the machine stops filling, be there to turn the water off! When its on the rinse cycle, listen out for it carefully to turn the water back on. You have to turn the water off and on about three times during the rinse cycle so water won't spray all over your  kitchen or bathroom, or wherever. Keep in mind that the machine stops accepting water once its filled, so it causes a build up, which ultimately causes the spraying. Even with all of that, its a fine appliance, and still beats the laundry mat by a long shot. I wrote this terribly long review so that you won't have to clean up Noah's Ark-grade floods like I did; 3 times to be exact.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3883, "id": 288724, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 569, "len_tokens": 647, "text": "I bought this washer because my building doesn't have any machines available. When it was first delivered, I discovered a huge dent toward the back right edge. It was then I realized that someone had dropped the machine somewhere during the shipping, since there was a large gash in the box. Given that the dent was quite deep and not merely cosmetic, I contacted Amazon for assistance. After some dissatisfying customer service from agents working abroad, I requested assistance from a domestic agent, and was able to get a replacement sent.\n\nIn the mean time I used the damaged machine twice, and was quite worried when the machine made horrible thumping noises during the spin cycle. The drum also tilted toward the front when the machine was empty. While waiting for the new machine to arrive, I put together the dolly I ordered and placed the damaged machine on top to try it out. A blue cylinder then fell out from under the machine, and I realized then that it was definitely broken. The machine also caused a flood under my kitchen sink cabinet when I connected the universal adapter to the faucet. Because the connection was difficult to tighten by hand, the water pressure would cause the water to spray out and drench the wall behind the sink, eventually causing the leak in the cabinet. I was at this point ready to give up on the machine and cancel the replacement\n\nThe replacement machine arrived undamaged at my work and I got it home fine. Then I stopped by Home Depot and was advised to not purchase a wrench for tightening the faucet connection. Instead, they recommended a pipe lubricant (such as the Danco silicone grease), which would provide more ability to tighten the connection without damaging the threading. The grease would also serve as a water stopper. I was skeptical but bought the lubricant, which I applied to the inside of the adapter, and then screwed onto the faucet threading. This time, the water still leaked out, but did not spray when the water was stopped by the machine for the agitation cycle, so there was no flooded cabinets.\n\nI was very pleased with the new machine, which did not shake or make horrible noises as with the damaged machine. It did my laundry in about 42 minutes, and I did not have to turn off the water in between cycles to avoid the spraying. My only complaint would be that the machine caused a lot of lint to cling to my clothes. Since this was only the 2nd time using the machine, I deduced that it was because I had left something in one of my pockets and not because of the lint trap. But the lint is quite difficult to remove.\n\nOverall I think this is a great purchase for anyone who wants the convenience of in unit laundry. Just make sure that you do purchase a dolly (the one recommended by Amazon) since the machine is quite heavy (about 60-70 lbs) and the tiny wheels on the back are not great for moving around. I also recommend buying the pipe lubricant and also leaving the adapter head on your sink constantly, and removing just the pipe instead, so you don't have to keep threading and unthreading the adapter whenever you use the machine (thereby damaging the delicate plastic thread of the faucet head).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3884, "id": 288864, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 519, "len_tokens": 615, "text": "We bought electrolux kitchen appliances despite advice that they were \"hit or miss\".  The look and the features are very alluring, and they seemed to be worth the premium pricing. We also held Electrolux in high esteem due to their Swedish origin and strong reputation in the vacuum business. We hoped for a \"hit\".\n\nThis dishwasher was delivered and installed by the dealer. Some features listed in the literature were missing - like the corner cutlery basket covers - and we were told that those were only provided on the next model up in the line.  I went back to the literature and found that there was NO WAY to have known this.\n\nThe door gasket was assembled improperly, such that the lower rack rubbed against it every time it was rolled in and out. The door didn't leak, but I was sure that over time the wear from the rubbing would lead to a leak.  Had to get service to replace the gasket -- only cost my time and a couple of half days off work (but why should I have to do this).\n\nWe used the DW 3 or 4 times successfully, noting that it didn't fully dissolve the detergent powder. Six weeks into using it, the unit showed a \"Leak Detected\" code, and wouldn't work any more. I gave up another half day of work to wait for a service man to come and confirm that the leak code was indeed as I had reported on the phone - a total waste of my time. Turns out that this is a common failure in these units - Electrolux produces a repair kit to correct this engineering design flaw. But they DON'T freely distribute this kit for some reason.  I had to wait 3 weeks for Elux to ship it to me directly (once, receiving the wrong part to fix the problem). Why on earth, can't they see to it that repairmen have one or two of these kits on their truck at all times?!  Saves them money - costs me time and aggravation!\n\nStill waiting for my dishwasher to work. Getting better and better at handwashing each and every day.  This is modern living - supported by my investment in premium priced Electrolux appliances (sarcasm, if you didn't get it).\n\nI have NO confidence in Electrolux appliance quality, and even less (;-) )in their ability to provide parts and proper service for the units under warrantee.\n\nMeanwhile I have no recourse, because appealing to Electrolux is a bit like talking to a wall. Either they're overwhelmed because of the volume of calls they get on their poor quality products, or their idiots, or their interest ends when they have my money safely in their accounts.  Nice business model, especially in a down economy. Good luck to them.  Problem is, consumers need to get the word out to others who are considering the purchase -- after you pay, it's too late.\n\nBest not to be lured in by the beautiful surfaces and attractive feature lists -- from my experience, these units are bone ugly!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3885, "id": 288876, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 476, "len_tokens": 601, "text": "All of the other reviewers have already summed it up:  Smelly dishes & musty-smelling machine, problems with the fancy control board, and worst of all the dreaded Errors 01 & 02.  Bottom line:  Electrolux customer service is the worst out there!  This dishwasher is the worst out there!  Avoid both...  We have had 4 service calls and are on our second dishwasher in a little over a year.  Each service call can take up to a month or more for scheduling and parts when you repair under the warranty, so you will get A LOT of experience hand washing your dishes while staring at your beautiful, but completely useless, dishwasher just sitting there taking up space.\n\nHere is the story if you want to know more: Our experience has been similar to everyone else that gave it 1 star.  We needed to upgrade from our 20 year old Kitchenaid (that actually worked fine), so bought this because we were told it was top of the line and we were expecting our first child and all of the extra dishes that he comes with. :)  We got Error 01 within 2 months.  This is when we found out about the HORRIBLE customer service at ElectroSux.  Even though it was only 2 months old, they wouldn't honor the warranty because we bought it from Lowe's, so it was now Lowe's problem.  (On a related topic, Lowe's denied it was their problem and sent us back to Electrolux, so we no will longer buy anything from them either).  This went back and forth for a month before either of them would make a service appt. for us.  Lowe's finally sent someone out, and then it took another 6 weeks before the part arrived and was installed.  If you're keeping track, that's 10 weeks of hand washing dishes so far.\n\nWithin a couple more weeks, Error 01 again.  I raised a huge stink this time until Lowe's decided we had a lemon and replaced the dishwasher, and Electrolux sent us a $150 check \"for our trouble.\"  Keep in mind, we were handwashing dishes again during this time and for the additional 2 weeks it took to get the replacement and service appt.\n\nSix months of everything working fine with the replacement until Error 01 AGAIN!  By this time, we just called the private service company (they have always been great throughout this) directly and had them come out.  We were very sick of dealing with Lowe's and Electrolux basically said we were Lowe's problem now, so no need to call them anymore.  $$$ later, we haven't seen Error 01 in awhile, but now we are entering the Error 02 world.  Unfortunately, since new babies are expensive, we need to hang on to this piece of junk for now.  I guess we'll just keep going until we hit all 13...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3886, "id": 296914, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 525, "len_tokens": 645, "text": "This is the second dual tub portable washing machine I have owned.  I had the Laundry Alternative first (discontinued); i think this one is WAY better for a few reasons -- but the hardest thing that i had to give up was the \"automatic\" portion of my formal dual tub, but i am sure this is why it is now discontinued and i had issues with it after a year.  This product is \"manual\" so i cannot see the same issues.\n\nPros:\n- BIG tub!  I used to have a 7.7; this one is much larger -- you wouldn't think 2.3 lb would make a difference, but it does!\n- Larger spinner!  I am pretty sure i can wash everything i own now\n- Spinner tub has a water inlet as well\n- PUMP is great.\n\nCons:\n- Hose doesn't fit @~!%&)&.  I knew this going into the purchase, but if you want to hook it up to a typical faucet you will be disappointed.  I had already previously installed a quick release latch for easy filling.  My previous machine had a screw on inlet; this one does not so if you really feel the need to fill through the inlet vs opening the lid and putting the water in (there's really no difference when it's manual), you will have to buy a hose or something similar to assist with this.  You can also fill with a bucket or whatever, so that's always an option if you don't feel like buying anything extra.\n- Discharge hose has the same issue -- WAY too short.  I also switched which side of the machine it was coming out of for convenience. I had an extension hose from my previous machine so i anticipated this, but depending on your needs/uses you may not need this.\n- 2 rinses may be better than one\n\nOverall, i knew what to expect.  This gave me freedom from laundromats/using the crummy w/d on site at my apartment.  I will say leaving my house and my \"real\" washer and dryer was the most difficult thing to do as i loved the convenience.  This is a little more work than a traditional W/D unit; however the freedom is worth it.  It needs no extra hookups for power or drainage.  This tub is pretty big -- i can't even IMAGINE getting the bigger units -- and it can do all my laundry that i need.  For the future i know that i can use this easily for camping/etc., which is always nice.  I also bought the Panda dryer to help with my clothes.  Yes, the spin dryer gets the clothes REALLY dry, and air drying is fine, but i really missed the speed/convenience of a real warm dryer (nothing like taking your clothes out of there -- vs. a scratchy wash cloth that was air dried).\n\nThere are quite a few other models/brands out there, so make your choice wisely.  I picked Panda because they are always improving on their existing units PLUS the dryer was really good, so i knew i could trust the brand.  Good luck!  GET YOUR FREEDOM!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3887, "id": 297107, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 545, "len_tokens": 620, "text": "Update:\nIt is now March of 2018 and the washer is still going strong. I don't use it as often because my new apt has a laundry room and there is a laundromat about half a mile away if I need to do a lot or blankets. I didn't expect it to last this long in all honesty but it still works like it did when I unboxed it.\n\nOriginal review:\nJust recently bought this and so far we love it. We live in an apt with no laundry hook ups or laundry room. So we had to make the trips to the laundromat. I couldn't take it anymore. Between dealing with the hassle of loading everything up and dealing with all the drama that goes on at a laundromat I just couldn't do it anymore. I was about to snap. I decided to order this washing machine and hope for the best. Don't get me wrong I did a great amount of research and found this to be the best option for the space and amount of work we can physically put into a washer. As well as based on price and wash load size.\n\nIt arrived on time and was packaged well. No damage. I read the directions and realized there was no way the little hose provided was about to fit any of the faucets I have. So off to buy a bucket. The washer itself is easily movable and not to heavy, which I was worried about. I will say this, if the hose does not fit your sinks I would highly suggest going to a store and buying a hose and adapter that will fit unless you don't mind constantly filling and moving buckets of water. For us its fine and we are in no rush. For some it may not be ok.\n\nAt this time we have had no issues with the washer. I did over fill it once and it did leak a tiny bit, but, I know that was my fault and not that of the washer. As long as it's not overloaded I don't see why there should be any problems. The spin dryer is also amazing. understand it is NOT a dryer. It simply spins a lot of the water out of the clothes. It does this really well though. Very little moisture in the clothes after being spun. Doesn't take to long for our clothes to dry. We hang them inside our apt and they dry very fast. Although we do live in an area that is very hot, so take that into consideration. For example this is the second week of Sept and we are expected to be at 105 degrees for the next 5 days. Even inside with our cooler on they only take a few hours to dry.\n\nIt did a great job of getting our clothes clean and I haven't had a break down having to face the laundromat again. So all in all it has been a greatly appreciated and much needed purchase. If any problems do arise I will be sure to update this review. I will also try to do a future update anyways. So far I'd suggest if you are considering buying one, then do it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3888, "id": 297136, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 544, "len_tokens": 657, "text": "/* ---UPDATE---\nUnit repeatedly and randomly leaks from bottom of main drum, not sure what's happening, but will contact the warranty people and see if they honor the deal.\n*/\n\nThe Good{\n-Mine worked out of the box.\n-It is not very large. Slightly longer than my kitchen sink, not as tall as my counter, and little over a food in depth.\n- It is not heavy. //The fed ex driver was a disgusting and rude human being who refused to roll it to my door or park on same side of street.\n-It will actually wash the clothes and rinse clothes. //need to double fill manually.\n-It's pretty so it's not an eye sore to your small RV or studio apartment.\n-It is at a reasonable price // $219.00 as of today.\n-There is an option to add water to the spin dry cycle.\n-It is not very loud. Not silent of course, but it's not obscenely loud like the large washing machines.\n-It did not make my lights flicker. My landlord was worried that it'd draw too much energy.\n- The spin dryer only requires 1-2 runs to get cloth items ready for a regular heat dryer or clothes line.\n}\n\nThe Bad{\n-The hoses are extremely flimsy. They aren't worth a plug nickle and will bend and feel like they will crack very soon.\n-Draining is a pain in the butt. Is real fun hearing the hose unhook itself from either the hook and or from whatever it's loosely clamped too. \\\nbe sure to invest in something to tie the hose securely or else have a floor lined with water.\n-The draining mechanism isn't that great at siphoning the water out of the machine. I'm starting to think I need to move the machine and \\\nplace it high and let the water drain low instead of letting it pump up and out. It will get much of the water out of the machine, but \\\nto be rid of all the water requires much lewd manipulation of the hose and eventually placing it at deck height with more fondling.\n-Mine came with lint/hair inside. Like one small hair and a tiny amount of dry lint /* not in lint trap*/ but still.\n-No lovely chime to tell you when it's done it just goes silent.\n- You are not saving time by using this machine vs a normal washer. You have to manually do the rinse cycle and \\\nwring out your own clothes before placing them into the spin dryer.\n}\n\nAdvice{\n-Get some decent hoses from hardware store with clamps;\n-Put near a floor level drain;\n-Keep anything remotely electrical or delicate very far away from the machine.\n-Don't leave this machine unattended.  //not even for long showers.\n-DO NOT EVER think just because the default drain hose seems secure that it will stay in place once \\\nit begins evacuating the water.\n- Buy a dryer with this, or else have clothes line and clips ready.\n- If you can buy a normal sized washer, refurbished or no, do it. This machine is for people who can't do any better \\\nnot for trying to stay under budget.\n}\n\n/* Do I regret buying this? No.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3889, "id": 297195, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 534, "len_tokens": 646, "text": "Supposedly, Samsung has recently passed up the competition for their dishwasher quality. And they've won awards, too., for their products and support.  Sadly, this has not been our experience with this product.\n\nWe took a chance on the new water wall tech. On the surface, it seems logical that this would provide better coverage of the dishes and get them cleaner. Near as we can tell, this part of it may be true. But this advantage is unfortunately negated when the product quits on the third day (the third load ever run). Product showed a 'leakage' error, with the corrective action to be to shut it off and call for service.\n\nAs stated on the unit itself, we contacted Samsung for support first. The next day when they called me back (caller ID did not identify as Samsung, by the way), they tried my number but I was unavailable to take the call. The rep indicated that that after trying to reach me, he would close the ticket! (\"Nooo!!!!\"). But he also said he'd email me more information.  In the email I received, it told me to look under the machine (not instructing me as to how to get there) and check the lines for leakage. Failure to follow the troubleshooting may result in a hefty fee for making a person come out there, if they find nothing wrong with the unit. Um....no. Bad support.\n\nAs to the dishes themselves, it did get them clean. They were not dry, though. Not a very big deal for me, but still. Another annoying aspect was that the middle rack only has 2 positions. The low position is too low for our dinner plates, and the high position is too short for some of our glassware. The rack needs a middle (1 inch between) position and then that would be just right. The unit we're replacing it with has this feature.\n\nOne thing our old dishwasher had that most newer ones don't seem to have, is an outward indicator that the dishes are clean. In fact, it would keep the clean light lit if you went into the dishwasher for a short time to get something and pull it out. I wish newer dishwashers had this, and it's even harder now because controls on the outside of the unit are apparently unsightly.... an example of when design misguidedly trumps function.\n\nBottom line, important features of this dishwasher (and their very lackluster support) need some serious tweaks before you take a chance on it. I knew it was new, but reviews so far seemed good, so I took a chance on it...and for multiple reasons it just didn't measure up, I'm afraid. My old dishwasher lasted 15 years and was nothing special, but it cleaned my dishes and never needed service until the day it died. It owed me nothing. This one, on the other hand, is futuristic....and unfortunately flawed.  Waterwall doesn't mean anything if the darn door won't stay closed. And Samsung's poor support is far beneath the premium price they are asking for this product. If they cannot stand behind products that fail on the third day, then it's not a good value.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3890, "id": 299773, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 485, "len_tokens": 655, "text": "Life was good. That was, until I realized something was amiss with my KitchenAid dishwasher...\n\nAs is the case with many KitchenAid (and Whirlpool) models, my dishwasher features a mid-level rack with two FLEXI-FOLD DOWN Flexible Tines. Wait... you do know all about the FLEXI-FOLD DOWN Flexible Tine system, right? No? Well then, let me explain...\n\nFLEXI-FOLD DOWN Flexible Tines can be found on the left- and right-hand sides of the mid-level rack. This ingenious design allow these two rows of tines to fold down--or rather, \"flexi-fold down\"--from their standard upright position. After this feat is performed, the tines rest horizontally at the base of the rack, no longer in the way! And amazingly, this mind-boggling transformation can be performed in mere seconds.\n\nThis system empowers the dishwasher user to make their own decisions when it comes to tine configuration. Do I want the left row of Flexible Tines in their traditional up position, or do I want to stow them away? What about the right row? These decisions may seem overwhelming at first. But in time, FLEXI-FOLD DOWN Flexible Tines will provide anyone with a sense of true freedom and liberation when it comes to dishwasher loading. After a few months of using Flexible Tines, you will wonder how you ever survived without them. And I mean that 100% literally.\n\nIn any case, one day, I noticed that one of the clips on the left row of my FLEXI-FOLD DOWN Flexible Tines was missing! Where did it go? How can a plastic piece just outright disappear from a dishwasher? How long had the clip been missing before I noticed? These questions cannot be answered, and are probably dangerous to ask.\n\nThis is the time for solutions, not for brooding about the problem. The left row of tines still remained upright, and still folded down--thank goodness--but whilst in the upright position, the row of tines was uncharacteristically wobbly. This would simply not do.\n\nI immediately ordered this replacement clip and refrained from using the dishwasher until it arrived. (This probably isn't necessary, but when one grows attached to their FLEXI-FOLD DOWN Flexible Tines, utilizing a dishwasher when they're not 100% properly functioning seems quite vulgar.) Once the clip arrived, I excitedly installed it.\n\n(It's worth noting that the tine pivot clips are identical for both the left and right rows of FLEXI-FOLD DOWN Flexible Tines, so if you need a replacement clip for either the left OR right row, this is the product.)\n\nAnyway: I'm happy to say that my FLEXI-FOLD DOWN Flexible Tines are working like new! Life is good. Life is precious, and oh, it's ever so beautiful. Left row of tines, up! Right row of tines, down! Now... switch! My FLEXI-FOLD DOWN Flexible Tines are working perfectly, with all clips properly in place.\n\nI am once again in charge of my destiny, and the future seems brighter than it's ever seemed before.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3891, "id": 303719, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 533, "len_tokens": 648, "text": "My Whirlpool gas dryer would not heat.  Ignitor would come on and go off but no flame.  Replaced the gas valve solenoids and I think it would have worked after that had I not forgotten to hook up the wires to the flame sensor.  An appliance parts guy told me to check the flame sensor for continuity before I replaced the gas valve solenoids.  I took off the two wires to the flame sensor and it checked out fine but I forgot to put the wires back on the flame sensor when I tested the dryer.  One of the loose wires for the flame sensor grounded out and then the ignitor did not work.  I checked the voltage going to the ignitor and there was no voltage (actually there was 13-17 volts...something like that) but there should be 120 volts going to the ignitor when the drying starts up and attempts to heat up.  Once I knew I was no longer getting current to the ignitor, I pulled off the wires on the two thermostats on the back of the dryer to check them for continuity.  One of the thermostats had continuity but the high limit thermostat did NOT have continuity at that point.\n\nThe dryer essentially uses one main circuit with multiple sensors/thermostats that will interrupt the circuit if there is a safety/heat problem.  Before replacing the high limit thermostat, I put a jumper wire between the two connectors that go to the high limit thermostat and everything worked with the jumper in place!  I suspect the short circuit caused by the loose flame sensor wire fried the high limit thermostat.  Anyway, I replaced the existing thermostat part number 3403140 with this part W10423382.  I was skeptical that this wasn't the correct part because this new part looks different and has a lower temperature rating. I researched online and found out that W10423392 is in fact the replacement for the original part 3403140.  I'm once again drying with gas!\n\nIf your dryer doesn't heat, you're somewhat handy with tools and have a multi-tester, there are a bunch of excellent youtube videos about how to isolate dryer problems and make repairs.  After I told one appliance repair guy that I shorted a wire in the dryer he said \"the short could go anywhere and you need to get a new unit\" (a new dryer!).  Since everything worked but the flame, I decided to troubleshoot further and I'm glad I did!  I spent about $60 total on parts at an appliance parts shop (it would have been less than half that much if I would have bought the parts on Amazon but I didn't want to wait) rather than $350-700 on a new dryer.  If your dryer is more than 20 years old, it might be time for a new one but a decent dryer should last a very long time.  The belt and idler pulley will eventually wear out but those can be replaced inexpensively and easily.  I replaced those about five years ago on my dryer when the belt started slipping and have not had any problems until the issue I just described with the flame not coming on.  Good luck!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3892, "id": 304859, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 537, "len_tokens": 665, "text": "Originally the drain beneath the freezer section had a rubber 'duck bill' outlet, that was supposed to open to allow water out and close so as not to allow moist air in. FAIL !!!!  The rubber valve got sticky and given enough time permanently shut, causing water to back up and (first) run over the drain pan in the freezer, (second) into the bottom of the freezer and then (third) out the door and onto the floor.\n\nDon't cheap out and just clean the duck bill value or you'll be back at it again in a year. Order the right part ($20), then start by taking front door off freezer (loosen 4 screws and lift) then remove 4 baskets. Remove the 4 screws that hold back panel on. You will have to pull the fan cover off (there is a plastic clip bottom front of cover) and there is a thermostat hiding behind the smaller plastic cover. Leave the thermostat dangle. Once you expose the coil, get a air dryer and defrost the drip pan and area below the drip pan. Leave it disassembled until you do the backside work.\nOPTION: If you don't want to pull off the back panel, you can let it defrost by itself but it'll take a day. Ice melts slowly. And there's food in your refrigerator, so what's easier? Move all the food or remove the panel? I say pull the panel.\n\nNext pull out the refrigerator and open up the lower back. Unplug the water solenoid power and move the power cord. There is a slide tube that carries water from the drain hole to an evaporator pan and at the top the infamous duck bill rubber valve. Once you pull it off, water SHOULD flow out and into the evaporator pan. Something should drip out and if not, you may not have defrosted all the ice (which is why I suggest, don't put freezer section back until you have water flowing out the drain hole.\n\nIt'll take about a minute to install the white expansion washer and then the new trap. Trap does not fit over white rubber washer easily, but with enough patience it will. Don't skip the white washer that came with the new trap. It's the only thing that will keep the tube in place on top (no screws needed). Make sure black tube flange is flush against top, snap the bottom into the clip in the pan. Button it all back up, push it back and put the freezer back together and rehang the door.\n\nDifficulty (1-10): about a 3.\nTime it takes: About 1-1.5 hours (about 30 minutes as ice thaws, so you can grab a beer and a TV show)\nTools: Nut driver, hair dryer and flashlight.\nMost difficult part: Figuring out how to get freezer baskets out. Don't strong arm them, just examine them from all angles and it'll become obvious. They come out easily if done right. Force them you're doing it wrong. Break them and it'll cost you. Plus your wife will say, \"see, I told you to call someone.\"\nSavings if you do it yourself: $250-$350\nHaving you wife stop complaining and threatening to call someone out: Priceless", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3893, "id": 307164, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 478, "len_tokens": 624, "text": "<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Magic-Chef-MCSDRY15W-1-5-cu-ft-Laundry-Dryer-White/dp/B01N7RHMKZ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Magic Chef MCSDRY15W 1.5 cu. ft. Laundry Dryer, White</a>\n\nWhat can I say? It does what it's designed to do and does it well considering it's size. It's quite the power saver using only a maximum of 850 watts which is less than the average hair dryer. It does have a high and low heat setting and according to my kill-a-watt, the low setting runs at about 500 watts. It does take a little longer than your average sized dryer but for those of us who don't have hookups or need something small due to space availability, it's an excellent choice.\n\nIt's definitely not big enough for more than a few shirts, couple towels/jeans, etc but it's a lot better than stringing lines around your house to hang dry clothing or having to rely on communal laundry equipment.\n\nIt's definitely a quiet unit and compliments the 0.9 cu.ft. Magic Chef washer I bought to go along with it quite nicely. The capacity of both units is close enough that a full load in the wash easily fits in this dryer. It's not speedy by any means, but the average load seems to dry within about 60-70 minutes if I start the timer at 200 minutes which is in the range of it's hottest setting. It fits the set of flannel sheets from my full size bed, and I would assume it would fit at least one sheet for a queen size if not both.\n\nThe product description does omit that it includes a 3\"-4\" adapter which I purchased separately and didn't need. This adapter allows you to connect a standard 4\" dryer hose directly to the unit which has a 3\" exhaust opening.\n\nAll in all, it's a great product that fits in the limited space I had available and now I can avoid having to worry about having quarters for laundry or having to wait for an available machine.\n\nOne thing to note is that this dryer does not have an end of cycle buzzer which for me is a great feature since I live in a studio apartment and the location I had available is against a shared wall with another tenant. Without laundry hookups I didn't want to bring attention to the fact that I have it.\n\nThe box I received the dryer in is a plain box with only the model printed on the front and rear, the box dimensions and weight. Inside the box there is another box for the dryer which does have both the model number which is the same printed on the exterior box as well as an outline imagine of the dryer and states \"Compact Dryer\". This made it very easy to bring in without bringing attention to what I actually had.\n\nAll in all this is a great unit that seems to work well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3894, "id": 308341, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 597, "len_tokens": 668, "text": "After reading the manual on how to set up the display unit and outdoor sensor, the instructions recommended that both units be allowed to equalize or settle down in temperature indoors. I calibrated both units to an accurate digital thermometer. However the requested 30 minute settling time seems to be way too short for the sensors to equalize. It's actually more in the range of 1 hour or more.\n\nHowever, after placing the outdoor unit on a garage door post that was shaded by an eave, the sensor was off by as much as six degrees higher than the digital thermometer. It turns out that outdoor sensor placement is critical in getting an accurate reading because it is very sensitive to ambient heat sources including the wall it is mounted to. This in effect is good and bad news. Good because it is accurate to even slight temperature fluctuations. Bad because it will be inaccurate since it can pick up stray heat from its mounting source.\n\nThe solution to this is to either hang the sensor from a string or fishing line or hang it from a long nail, but in both cases the sensor should not be touching any surface and should be free standing, if at all possible.\n\nBut after dialing in the calibration feature for the display, both sensors are spot on in their readings now. The display, as some have pointed out, is very detailed. Some complain that it is too busy, but I like all the info it displays and I feel that this layout is much better than most of the other weather stations that I have seen. It displays the daily high and low historical readings for temperature and humidity, shows the historical data for barometric pressure, shows indoor and outdoor temperatures, current indoor and outdoor humidity, gives a trend indication on whether the temperature is going up or down, and even a \"weather forecaster\" that gives a guess of weather conditions in the next day or two. And of course, there is the display that visually tells you what comfort zone you are in as it relates to the temperature via different lighted colored backgrounds.\n\nI only have my indoor console running on batteries, and the LCD display is crisp and sharp. I don't use the colored back-light much, so I do not need to plug the unit in to use this feature. I can always just tap the \"light\" button and see the colored display for a few seconds.\n\nSetting the unit up was pretty straight forward and not very complicated if you take your time. Some may feel there are too many button presses to change the various setting displays, but the setup is pretty logical. And if you forget what does what, the manual is clear on what you need to do to change the parameters.\n\nOnce you understand that the outdoor sensor placement is critical to accurate readings, you're golden. Customer support for the WS-11 is excellent and they will help you with any problems on the setup or questions you may have.\n\nBut one thing should be made clear to any wonks or OCD types out there; this weather station is accurate to within certain parameters and does a very good job of it, and shouldn't be expected to perform with the precision of professional meteorological instruments. If you understand this, this unit is great for what it is was intended for. I like it a lot and refer to it for biking weather conditions in order to dress properly for my daily rides.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3895, "id": 310728, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 536, "len_tokens": 664, "text": "We read the good and bad reviews, and bought with caution from a local dealer with a 30 day return policy, including delivery and pickup.\n\nOn the pro side, you never have to load clothes separately into a dryer and it's compact, with room to install shelves over it since there's no stacking required.  We found the drying function to be totally fine, even with heavy loads including jeans!  It does take a long time to dry, but we had done our research and expected this.  The ventless drying didn't heat up our bathroom, by the way.\n\nBUT, despite having our unit carefully installed, and having the installation crew come out a second time to make sure the machine was absolutely level, the machine is virtually unusable.  We installed the anti-vibration pads LG recommends.  We did not leave the shipping bolts on the back!  Yet it vibrates unbelievably, and makes an incredibly loud knocking sound.  If we press and hold the door while the machine is in its spin cycle (which is short) the loud banging abates, but this means that we have to be home, awake, and willing to dash in to support it in order to do laundry.  I believe the problem is with the door, and specifically the lower section of the door (LG, are you listening??).  But it's beyond what we or our condo neighbors can tolerate.  I also think that level of vibration would ultimately lead to other repair problems as well.\n\nIn general, this is a higher maintenance unit than some may be used to.  You really do have to wipe the lint out of it after every cycle, and follow the instructions about running a cleaning cycle and the like.  Still, that's a lot easier than going to the laundromat!\n\nIf space is really tight, or if you can't get the electrical work done to put in a 240 volt line, I think this machine is worth a try. Their manufacturing process must simply be uneven.  Some of these units must be fine if there are so many positive reviews.  But purchase it from somewhere that has an excellent return policy.\n\nOther brands of ventless, 110 volt combo washer/dryers to consider--with a slightly smaller capacity--are Haier or Edgestar.  In the end, I didn't really want to deal with wiping lint out of a combo unit.  I'm also not sure that the technology is 100% there for these yet in terms of long-term reliability.  We do have the vertical space, so we returned the LG and bought vertically stacked, ventless, separate compact units from Bosch.  Alas, this meant I also had to have an electrician come in to do the 240 volt wiring.  The two Bosch units together cost us about $650 more than the LG combo machine.  If we had more money, we would have purchased the Miele models (which are less deep and would have fit more nicely in our bathroom) but saving an extra two inches for $1,000 over the already high cost of the Bosch was beyond what I could justify.\n\nGood luck to all of you other small space dwellers out there.  I hope you find a solution that works well for you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3896, "id": 314803, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 554, "len_tokens": 675, "text": "Let me start out by saying that I am eating some crow in this edited review.  I jumped to a conclusion about this unit before I checked out all the facts.  Let me share with you our experiences with our unit, and the company.\n\nThere were a few hiccups with the kegerator when we first set it up.\n\n1.)  There was no hole drilled through the insulation in the top for the tap line.  I had to borrow a hole saw and drill it myself.\n\n2.)  No matter how I adjusted the pressure, the tap poured more foam than beer.  The problem was a kinked tap line that  Steve at Versonel replaced with no questions asked.  After I replaced the tap and tap line I'm getting beautiful pours.\n\n3.)  After my first CO2 charge, my 5 lb CO2 tank developed a leak in the valve threads.  My local craft brew store wouldn't fill it because it was a hazard.  Steve provided a replacement with no questions asked.\n\n4.)  The temperature gauge on the door is useless.  It consistently reads fourteen degrees higher than the actual temp inside.  Steve's answer was to actually pull the temperature sensor out of the door and have it hang inside the refrigerator compartment.  When I did that the temperature readings went crazy.  We saw readings from - 400 F to + 150 F.  After I put the sensor back into its compartment, the readings normalized.  I now use the remote sensor from an indoor/outdoor wireless weather station to measure the temperature inside the compartment.\n\n5.)  I had initially thought that the Kegerator wasn't cooling down to the specified 34 degrees.  I had set my remote thermometer on top of the keg thinking that was the best way to measure the temperature. In that location it consistently read 38 to 39 degrees, which I thought was totally unacceptable, and that the unit wasn't doing everything it should do to cool the keg  However, when I moved the sensor to the floor of the interior, I got readings of 31 to 32 degrees which meant that the cooling plant was exceeding its rating, so I had to eat some crow with Steve at Versonel.  The unit is absolutely doing everything it is advertised to do.\n\nLet me tell you something - I wish every company would go out of their way to keep the customer happy the way that Versonel has done for me.  I even got their Head Customer Service Tech Rep's personal phone number, and he asked me to call him over the weekend if I had any problems at all.  And because I thought I was having issues with the cooling plant, they were ready to ship me a brand new replacement unit that they had personally tested on their warehouse floor to make sure it would cool down to the specified temperature.  It turned out that was not necessary.\n\nI'm not giving the Versonel Kegerator a 5 rating because the temperature gauge is so inaccurate, and that's the main reason we chose this unit over some of the others on Amazon.  That being said, I'll give their Customer Support a solid 10.  If you have any problems at all, they will go out of their way to make sure you are happy, and are enjoying your Keg.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3897, "id": 322122, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 567, "len_tokens": 670, "text": "NEVER BUY LG products. STAY AWAY\nI will never buy any LG product again. I purchased this overpriced piece of junk in March 2015 from SEARS after my other fridge died. The price was $2,698. I was reluctant because of the price, but it was shiny and pretty and my wife really wanted it. I did a little research (should have done more) and saw that LG gets high rankings for customer satisfaction. I do not understand or believe that now. I should have looked for the negative reviews like here on amazon they are all correct. I purchased the extended warranty for a hefty price of $500. After owning the fridge for 6 months (September 2015) it started making a loud clicking or pulsating noise. Sounded like a fan motor hitting something. Also soon after the noise the fridge stopped cooling. Called the service number. I have to say they really scrape the bottom of the barrel for their service technicians also. The guy changed out a part in the freezer even though I told him the noise was in the fridge. The fridge still did not cool. So had another technician come out and take the back panel off in the fridge and guess what the coils where iced over and the fan hitting it and was messed up. He thawed it out and replaced the fan. Another six months later (March 2016) the fridge started making the same distinct noise again. I kept trying to ignore the loud noise and hope it would go away. I was in denial. Finally the fridge stopped cooling and put an error code on the door. Called the repair / warranty people and they came out to fix it. Guess what the same thing again. The cooling coils were frozen and the fan was hitting the ice. Until it finally stopped the fan. The repairman thawed it out and replaced the whole back panel and fan. Oh yeah they had to order the part and ship it to our house. This took two weeks. So I had to buy a $500 fridge for the 2 weeks without a fridge. I also lost a couple hundred dollars of food. Another six months later (October 2016) the fridge started making the same distinct noise again, but only from time to time. I called and had the repairman com out. But there was no error code and of course the noise stopped just in time for the substandard repairman to show up. I had the fridge cleaned out and ready for him to look at it. But he was condescending and said that there was no error code and no noise. I said I know but asked him to take the back panel off and look at the coils, because of my previous issues. He refused and left, another bad repairman. So now I am waiting for it to fully freeze the refrigerator fan again.\n\nThis is ridiculous for the price that I paid on this very low quality product.\n\nI never realized that LG was Lucky \"GOLDSTAR\" till I did some more research. I remember GOLDSTAR electronics from when I was a kid. They made cheaper stereos and TVs. Everything that my parents bought from them broke within a few months of use. STAY AWAY. They tricked me with their rebranding into LG and untrue slogan of \"Life's Good\".", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3898, "id": 322138, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 562, "len_tokens": 698, "text": "We enjoyed our LG fridge for about six months. Then, the never-ending battle began.\n\nFirst, we heard a knocking sound. After answering the door to no one for the tenth time, we realized it was the fridge. I Googled. I read the manual. I scratched my head. Unplug it, everything more-or-less told me. Great; restart it. Hold down CTRL+ALT+DELETE at the same time. Got it.\n\nI left it unplugged for the recommended four hours. Then I powered it back up and the knocking immediately commenced. A few days later, we got the IF error code.\n\nError code? A refrigerator has an error code? Seriously. This was too complicated already. Once again, I turned to Google, the manual, and my scalp.  I called the store. After all, they had strongarmed us into a warranty I didn't want, and Im so glad they did.\n\nSo the repairman came out. He told me that these fridges were notorious for breaking down. Then he proceeded to show me how to repair it myself because, This isn't the first time and it won't be the last.\n\nWe took the entire freezer apart to get to the ice blower fan, essentially. It gets frozen solid. Every three months like clockwork.\n\nWas it manageable? Yeah. First world problems and all that. But then other stuff started going down:\n\n-The large mechanism that slides into some other cheap, plastic part did something stupid, so the door wouldnt always close. So guests would shut our fridge but not shut our fridge, which resulted in \n-A ripped rubber door seal.\n-No matter what temp the fridge was set at, food sitting directly on the glass shelves or in two of the three produce drawers would freeze. And were not talking about some delightful icy crunch. Entire pieces of fruit, meat, even cheese would freeze solid. Did you know cheese could turn into ice? It can. We cannot store food in half of our fridge. (However, I lined all of the shelves in newspaper, which seems to have helped. Plus, I can now read about the local elections from a year ago every morning while I get the orange juice.)\n-The freezer fan clogs with ice so often, I have to mention it \n- twice.\n-The water dispensing button is starting to stick.\n-The ice dispenser clogs on a daily basis. We keep a knife honer nearby to stab into the bin. I repeat, this happens daily.\n-It gets fingerprinted to he77. I know this is a hazard of being an appliance in a home where the occupants have hands. But I hate this thing and now Im just searching for more to add to the list.\n-The water valve that connects the water line to the fridge wore out. So now we don't even get water or ice until I replace it.\n-And now the ice maker is broken. That's a $120 part.\n\nWe have a second fridge in our house. We got it for free from an apartment complex that was throwing them away. We keep it in the garage as a beer fridge. Dudes, this fridge (I don't even know the brand) is probably 20 years old (at least), is ugly as sin, and is chugging away like we do on  beer.\n\nMeanwhile, my $2,500 LG heartache mocks me with a frozen water melon, incessant ticking, and dripping water.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3899, "id": 322318, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 535, "len_tokens": 620, "text": "This unit was provided to me free of charge for purposes of review.\n\nThe WS-11 immediately exceeded my expectations. It's newest feature is a color back light which reflects the changing temperature with ten colors from HOT red to COLD purple. With the included AC adaptor the colors can be left on without fear of killing the batteries and in a power outage can be turned off and on at will to check current conditions in a darkened room. I am not easy to please and I can't say enough about how much I love this feature!\n\nSecondly, the size of the station. At 4 1/4 X 5 in. (overall 5 1-4 X 7 in.) it makes the screen large enough to clearly see the numbers that matter the most.\n\nThe screen is divided into three distinct groups: The top has inside temperature in large display with the current days high and low in smaller numbers below. Right next to that is and identical display of the relative humidity. The middle portion of the screen displays the same information for outside.\n\nAbout the outside sensor: The manual (you can download the PDF version from the Ambient web site even before you buy if you are a skeptic) recommends a shaded place for hanging, more or less in a location protected from a lot of water. However the sensor has a gasket on the battery cover and with care water should not be an issue.\n\nThe main thing is shade. Direct sun will give you a reading well above the actual ambient outside temperature, so pick your location wisely.\n\nThe last third of the screen sports an Icon which changes, literally, with the weather. Before I wrote this today it changed from partly cloudy to rain three hours before it started raining. Then you have the Barometric Pressure readout (you can pick relative or absolute), the date and a large graphing of, well, your choice of temp, humidity, and pressure.\n\nTo top it all off, everything is adjustable, you don't have to accept the factory defaults as gospel. One of the reasons I like the color back light is that one person's comfortable is another person's too hot or to cold. The color is adjustable so a pleasing color is a pleasing temperature for you. This is important especially where the Barometric Pressure comes in since this varies from place to place. If you read nothing in the manual about the various adjustments, read all about this.\n\nThere are things I haven't mentioned here, like the alarms you can set, but you get the picture - I really, really like the WS-11 and look forward to the day Ambient decides to make a version that can feed data into my computer to track trends. Do take the time and have the patience to read the manual and make adjustments over the course of the first two or three days. Initial set up is as easy as loading batteries and finding a place to hang the sensor and a place to hang, or stand, (it has a built in pull-out stand) the display.\n\nJust hope they don't read this review and raise the price, its that good.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3900, "id": 322339, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 562, "len_tokens": 698, "text": "We enjoyed our LG fridge for about six months. Then, the never-ending battle began.\n\nFirst, we heard a knocking sound. After answering the door to no one for the tenth time, we realized it was the fridge. I Googled. I read the manual. I scratched my head. Unplug it, everything more-or-less told me. Great; restart it. Hold down CTRL+ALT+DELETE at the same time. Got it.\n\nI left it unplugged for the recommended four hours. Then I powered it back up and the knocking immediately commenced. A few days later, we got the IF error code.\n\nError code? A refrigerator has an error code? Seriously. This was too complicated already. Once again, I turned to Google, the manual, and my scalp.  I called the store. After all, they had strongarmed us into a warranty I didn't want, and Im so glad they did.\n\nSo the repairman came out. He told me that these fridges were notorious for breaking down. Then he proceeded to show me how to repair it myself because, This isn't the first time and it won't be the last.\n\nWe took the entire freezer apart to get to the ice blower fan, essentially. It gets frozen solid. Every three months like clockwork.\n\nWas it manageable? Yeah. First world problems and all that. But then other stuff started going down:\n\n-The large mechanism that slides into some other cheap, plastic part did something stupid, so the door wouldnt always close. So guests would shut our fridge but not shut our fridge, which resulted in \n-A ripped rubber door seal.\n-No matter what temp the fridge was set at, food sitting directly on the glass shelves or in two of the three produce drawers would freeze. And were not talking about some delightful icy crunch. Entire pieces of fruit, meat, even cheese would freeze solid. Did you know cheese could turn into ice? It can. We cannot store food in half of our fridge. (However, I lined all of the shelves in newspaper, which seems to have helped. Plus, I can now read about the local elections from a year ago every morning while I get the orange juice.)\n-The freezer fan clogs with ice so often, I have to mention it \n- twice.\n-The water dispensing button is starting to stick.\n-The ice dispenser clogs on a daily basis. We keep a knife honer nearby to stab into the bin. I repeat, this happens daily.\n-It gets fingerprinted to he77. I know this is a hazard of being an appliance in a home where the occupants have hands. But I hate this thing and now Im just searching for more to add to the list.\n-The water valve that connects the water line to the fridge wore out. So now we don't even get water or ice until I replace it.\n-And now the ice maker is broken. That's a $120 part.\n\nWe have a second fridge in our house. We got it for free from an apartment complex that was throwing them away. We keep it in the garage as a beer fridge. Dudes, this fridge (I don't even know the brand) is probably 20 years old (at least), is ugly as sin, and is chugging away like we do on  beer.\n\nMeanwhile, my $2,500 LG heartache mocks me with a frozen water melon, incessant ticking, and dripping water.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3901, "id": 329219, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 571, "len_tokens": 689, "text": "I purchased a portable icemaker for my mother about 10 years ago that works similarly to this one, but it is a monster in size compared to this. Also, I greatly prefer the ice this Ivation icemaker produces. And the other features like the window and the LCD control panel make it much more convenient to use.\n\nYou should understand that portable icemakers like this differ in two ways from the built-in icemakers in your refrigerator/freezer. First, you pour the water in and when it is depleted, you must pour in more. (Hint: I suggest using filtered water, particularly if you live in a hard water area. Mineral deposits are tough on appliances.)\n\nSecond, the area the ice falls into is not refrigerated, although it is insulated to some degree. So when the ice is made and it falls into the basket, you then need to use it or transfer it to a freezer or an ice chest. Otherwise, the ice will begin to melt and the water will drain down into the water tank to be made into ice again. Thus, it isn't a machine you just turn on and leave unattended and return to find 26 pounds of ice at the end of the day. But it will produce over 26 pounds of ice in a 24 hour period as long as someone empties the ice basket and replenishes the water as needed.\n\nSo out of the box, you will find an attractive machine that weighs about 25 pounds empty and measures about 12\" x 14\" x 13 1/2\". Inside the icemaker is a basket for the ice and a handy plastic scoop. There is also a helpful, well-written user manual.\n\nFYI: You will need 8\"-10\" of space next to the air outlet on one side and be certain that the air inlet on the other side of the machine is unobstructed so take that into consideration when deciding where to put this machine.\n\nAfter letting the machine sit for at least 30 minutes (for the refrigerant to settle), clean the icemaker and plug it in. Pour water into the tank up to the maximum fill line and put the ice basket in place (it has a 95oz. capacity). Using the back-lit LCD panel on the front of the machine, set the time and select the ice size you wish to make and start the machine. You'll have ice in 10-20 minutes, depending upon the size you select.\n\nThe ice is a hollow, bullet shape and it is not the super hard, clear kind. It's aerated enough to be soft and nice for people who like to chew ice.\n\nThe basket holds about 2 pounds of ice and the icemaking process will suspend when the basket is full. It also beeps to let you know the basket is full. That's a nice feature so I can be busy doing other things.\n\nI really like the window on top so you can see easily how much ice is ready.\n\nThis machine is perfect for people who don't have a built-in icemaker in their freezer or for homes where it would be difficult or impossible to plumb for one. It's also nice for parties where extra ice is needed. It works perfectly, is a manageable size, and makes very nice ice.\n\nNOTE: I was provided a sample for review, but a positive review was not asked for, promised or implied.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3902, "id": 329503, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 570, "len_tokens": 639, "text": "HIGHLY Recommend that you let the ICE MAKER sit overnight or at least a few hours after unboxing the machine and follow all directions found inside of the box.  (Allowing the machine to sit helps the Freon to settle and will provide the best ice cube results). Even if you LOVE ice (like I do) and are very excited to get the machine started, RESIST the urge - It is well worth the wait!\n\nI made the mistake the first time around and did not let the machine sit long enough after arrival. I had only 2 ice cubes being made every 6 to 9 minutes so I would only get a full basket of ice overnight. I had to let the machine run constantly to get a cup of ice every few hours.\n\nI contacted the seller and they recommended that I exchange the machine. I did every step in the directions with the new unit, rinsing the parts and I allowed a full day for the new ice maker to sit unused.\n\nI live for ice, I use it daily - for many purposes. I love to eat ice, I use it in all of my drinks, I get migraines often and will make ice packs when I rest to hold against my head..I would buy huge bags of ice from the gas station and that got really expensive with how much of the ice I was eating alone. I had high hopes for this machine to work this time around.\n\nI plugged in the machine poured in four bottles of 16oz purified water and it filled up to the FILL line perfectly. Then I waited...about 7 minutes later I heard ice dropping so I went to see if the full amount was made. I had 9 medium size cubes (the perfect chewing size) ready to cup up and use in my drink..YES!! I was so happy the exchange worked and allowing the machine to rest before using was the answer to my problem!\n\nI have the ice machine in my office, I can grab a cup of ice at any time and chomp it down - The cubes are all the same size, easy to eat and are very tasty when using purified water. I leave the machine on all the time - When the basket gets full the machine will beep a few times to let me know it is completely full and then it will automatically go to stand by mode until more room is available. If I make a cup or two of ice, within a minute or two the machine will beep once and turn back on to refill the space from the ice I removed.\n\nThe ice maker does not keep the ice that is made cold, but does hold it in a basket. The basket has holes in the bottom of it so as the ice melts it drips back into the water reservoir to be made into ice again. An option to make large, medium or small ice cubes on the LCD display (medium is my preference)..A flashing snowflake means the ice machine is making the ice, a solid snowflake means the ice machine is on standby. Quite a lot of ice is quickly made and ready to go whenever I need it, I am very happy with this portable machine! Discounted sample provided for evaluation and review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3903, "id": 329617, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 555, "len_tokens": 657, "text": "Very good, although not perfect, ice maker. Like all the other \"instant\" ice makers, it is not refrigerated, but this one does appear to be well insulated and the ice keeps reasonably well. It pumps out ice like crazy. My wife and I both love ice, she will actually just fill up a large glass with ice and munch on it and this ice maker keeps up with both of us, and then some. Interestingly, I bought the little brother to this one, a smaller grey/silver Ivation ice maker with a blue control panel and only two selectable ice cube sizes and that thing was terrible. It made ice so slowly that it was melting faster than the ice maker could make it! I returned it and am much, much happier with this one. The only reason I gave it 4 stars is because the control panel sucks and the timer function has a serious flaw. It's a neat idea, you set the current time, then you can set the on time and the off time. Very nice, since we never need ice at 3 in the morning. However, it does a very annoying flaw. Lets say you have the shutoff timer set for 8 pm. On one particular day, at 7 pm, the ice maker shuts itself down because it sensed the ice bucket was full. At 10 pm, the ice has melted down enough that the ice maker turns itself on and starts making ice again. Que the fan coming on, the ice dropping into the bucket and the irritating half dozen or so loud beeps it will make when, at around midnight, it has filled itself up again. And again at 3. And again at 5. You get the picture. So all the timer does is shut it off if it's already running. It won't keep it off if it decides to turn itself back on again to make more ice. That actually is another annoying thing. If you want to turn the damn thing off and it's already turned itself off because the ice bucket is full, pressing the on/off button turns it on, not off. At which point it will start making ice just long enough to sense, again, that the ice bucket is full. It will then sound the alarm that the ice bucket is full and turn itself back off. At least until the ice melts down a little and the on/make ice/beep like crazy/turn back off cycle starts all over again. So, you need to be able to recognize that it's off because it turned itself off because the ice bucket is full which means you need to press the on/off button twice instead of just once. Once to manually turn it on and then again, right away, to manually turn it off. Once you manually turn it off, it won't turn back on even if the ice melts down. Or you can just unplug the damn thing. That does completely eliminates all the guesswork and complicated calculation. In summary. As an ice maker, 5 stars! Love having 3 selectable sizes and it makes ice by the truckload! As an automated device? 1 star. Too bad they didn't hire a halfway decent programmer to build and program the control circuitry. That should have been the easy part!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3904, "id": 329979, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 496, "len_tokens": 600, "text": "This is an item I was  surprised even existed.. but am SOOOO happy we found ..\n\nFirst  there are fishermen in our family and filling up coolers to go out in boats can be an expensive and time consuming chore... Well when the fisherman in the family SAW this unit, his eyes started to glisten............. not only was he pleased that he could make all the ice he needed prior to the trip, He was even looking at taking it on some over nights where they dock the boat and could plug this in and add MORE ice for the nx days fishing trip.\n..........one thing he likes to do is fillet his fish and then  place in a food saver bag and he uses a hand held vacuum gadget and  then pops into the ice. Then, once he returns home, the  fish is all ready to add to the freezer .............\n\nNow for me  the thing we are looking forward to is to use this for  pool parties and  BBQ's..\n. We never ever had enough ICE.. never.. We go through it so fast, as out temps are high and everyone wants lots of icy drinks. I can set this on our counter and let them fill up....... and they stay OUT of my freezer... ( had a incident earlier in the summer when a child visited and got some ice out and LEFT THE FREEZER door slightly open... )............ nothing like dripping ice cream all over the floor..\nThis item was provided for a fair review\n\nThe item is nice in appearance w a silver grey finish.  It makes 2 sizes of cubes.\n  I was very surprised at the speed in which it produced ice...  approx 14 minutes.. from start to ICE.  Also a surprise,The machine is quite!!\n ..........Super easy set up ( one of my pet peeves is complex setup.. but that is NOT the case w this gem ))\n....... ...fill  to the water line plug it in.\n.......... starts to produce ice with in approx 13-14 minutes.\n........... Ice is popping out !.....\n\nA friend stopped by while I was setting this up........... and she was so impressed. They had just bought a sm travel trailer and she said this would be ideal for her and hubby in the cross country trip in the RV.\n\nThis item arrived just in time as our in fridge ice maker starting to  act up AGAIN........... and we were looking at a hefty  repair bill to get it up and running again but this little guy works better than our in fridge unit.  SMILE>>>>>>\n\nNow it seems the longer we have this sitting out the more ideas we seem to  think of when this will be so helpful............ Nx is a  weekend get together to fire up our Smoker and  enjoy some yummy food and  Nice COOL drinks around the pool.\n\nSuper HAPPY with this item................and the Fishermen..  is all SMILES>>>>>>>>.. I can highly recommend this unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3905, "id": 333603, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 420, "len_tokens": 657, "text": "These KEY REPAIR ITEMS were ordered and arrived as ordered and as anticipated. While the learning process involved in attempting to replace both these part mechanisms myself wasn't aided much by a rather poorly-designed, clearly ill-organized, minimalistic, and WAY-OVERPRICED (DIY) repair manual ($40.00 !), which I could only review with distinct frustration and chagrin, the ordered assemblies here were as advertised and came promptly, so I'm happy with the conscientiousness of the folks who sent them to me, and the online descriptions of them. My only real complaint here is that THE CLUTCH UNIT ITSELF CAN ONLY BE REPLACED WITH SPECIAL ATTENTION PAID TO THE TWO ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL, SEPARATE MOUNTING/RETAINING RING CLIPS, which themselves aren't included with the clutch unit part itself... NO MENTION OF THESE CRITICAL RINGNS/CLIPS IS EVEN MENTIONED HERE when ordered! hENCE, WHY these rings/clips weren't included defies any-and-all reasonable standards of common integrity, courtesy, logic, responsibility, and even duty, as far as I'm concerned! WITHOUT THESE TWO INDISPENSIBLE, ESSENTIAL RINGS/CLIPS EVEN BEING MENTIONED, MUCH LESS INCLUDED WITH THE CLUTCH ITSELF, IT CAN'T BE FIXED! Hence, I can only imagine there were TOO MANY MARKETING CHIEFS, and NOT ENOUGH ACTUAL 'EXPERIENCED' INDIANS INVOLVED HERE in selling the clutch assembly itself... completely, repugnantly clueless to this CLEAR REQUIREMENT ITSELF! The additional fact that these two rings/clips must be relatively cheap, and likely very easily-manufactured, to not include them with the clutch unit when purchased (they probably don't cost more than about 50 cents each to make)! Yes, you paragons of integrity, WITHOUT THESE TWO RINGS/CLIPS, THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY ITSELF NOT ONLY CAN'T BE REPLACED, IT WON'T WORK, and the repair is functionally impossible! Dig into this job oneself, for the required time, as I did, and you'll just curse THE COMPLETE LACK OF THOROUGHNESS AND PERHAPS EVEN BASIC INTELLIGENCE, ON THE PART OF THE SUPPOSED 'SALES EXPERTS' IN THE SERVICING OF THIS WASHING MACHINE, AND YOU TOO MIGHT BE JUST A BIT PEAVED! I SUBSEQUENTLY HAD TO WASTE MUCH TIME REORDERING THESE TWO TINY RINGS/CLIPS, WHICH I COULDN'T ORDER THROUGH YOUR BUSINESS... NOT EVEN CARRIED! So I spent more wasted hours finding these two micro parts, ordering them, waiting for their delivery, and then REWORKING the intended repair here! So while I appreciated your supplying the two listed parts I bought from you, YOUR MENTAL MIDGET MARKETING GENIUSES MISSED THE MOST IMPORTANT PARTS OF THIS CLUTCH REPAIR JOB ENTIRELY! How does such stupidity exist? Anyone paying the slightest bit of attention here to BASICS? Come on folks... WAKE UP!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3906, "id": 338589, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 534, "len_tokens": 664, "text": "After 12.5 years, the original water pump on our Kenmore HE-3T (model 110.44932200) washing machine, which is the same as the Whirlpool Duet, finally failed.  We got the occasional damp load, then noted that the drum wouldn't spin up to full speed on drain, then the F02 error (when the pump doesn't get the water out of the drum, the water level sensor detects this and generates this error).  This all happened over the course of about three weeks.  Opened up the front bottom panel and the inside of the filter housing was clean, but the pump motor was clearly making bad noises.  Called three local parts houses and all were asking about $140 for the entire pump assembly, which is the housing and the pump motor together.  Bought the Amazon replacement motor without the pump housing (the housing was in perfect shape).  The new motor is a perfect fit for the original motor but a slightly different design.  As of now it's on the fourth load and the problem I had is solved.  The new pump is reasonably quiet.  Not as quiet as the original, likely due to the three impeller blades vs. the four blades on the OEM motor, but not objectionably loud.\n\nThe new pump has a three bladed impeller, where the original AKSOLL M75 (model 461970201671) had four.  The original motor had a large plastic cover that also covered the electrical connection; the new motor has no cover on the electrical connection.  I wrapped a few turns of electrical tape to deflect any stray water that might leak.  The new motor assembly weighs 664 grams, the old weighed 659 grams, so they are very close.  The new motor is rated at 85 watts, the original 70 watts.  The duty cycle is not shown on the new motor; on the original it was 15 minutes on, 45 minutes off, which is typical for this type of motor.\n\nGiven the relatively low cost of this replacement motor, even if it dies in a few years it's inexpensive and easy to replace.  I removed the whole pump from the washer so it would be easier to access the rear screw on the motor.  The whole job from start to finish is well less than an hour with basic hand tools.  A 7mm socket or T20 Torx is required to remove the three lower front panel screws at the bottom of the washer.  Then remove the electrical connector from the motor by hand, use a T-20 Torx to remove the front hold-down screw for the pump housing, and pliers to remove the spring clamps from the two hoses.  Best to drain the housing through the filter area prior to this, as some water is trapped between the drum and the pump and in the discharge hose.  The new motor comes with a lubricated o-ring installed, so it's just a simple matter of removing three Phillips head screws, swap out the motor, re-attach the screws, and install the pump in the reverse order of removal.\n\nThere are several YouTube videos that show the process of removing and replacing the pump.\n\nAttached are several photos showing the original and replacement motors from various angles.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3907, "id": 340954, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 578, "len_tokens": 680, "text": "If you are looking at this review it is probably because you have an HE machine that makes your clothes smell like mildew. I went through the same thing. I got a set of front load HEs thinking that they were the best thing since sliced bread. They were quiet, saved energy and were supposed to clean far better.\n\nThe first thing I noticed is that the collars of my dress shirts were getting tattered. Then I started noticing ring around the collar and deodorant stains on my clothes. I didn't think much about it at first other than I needed to buy more clothes. Then the smell started. I knew that i needed to leave the door open and run sanitizer tablets. Even though I was doing this, I noticed that if I didn't get my clothes immediately from the washer to the dryer that they would smell like mildew. If I waited even 15 minutes I would have to rewash my clothes.\n\nI then started noticing that if I was doing yardwork, my cloths would start to smell like mildew. Sweat just caused them to reek. I live in a desert. It's really dry here so humidity is not much of a problem. This changed when I went on vacation in the Caribbean. My clothes started to stink so bad that the maid started bleaching the room. It was disgusting.\n\nThats when I started to really notice the smell. The closet no longer smelled like fresh clean cloths. It smelled like someone tried to perfume a corpse to cover the smell.  If it rained, I could smell the mildew coming out of my cloths. I found myself having to bring a change of clothes if I knew I would have build up a sweat. I started buying clothes more often because I couldn't stand the way my clothes smelled after I washed them a few times.\n\nI felt dirty all the time.\n\nI started researching new washers about a year ago. I began typing the model number and the word \"smell\" into Google and Amazon. Every single new washer that had been on the market for any period of time had complaints of a mildew smell. I gave up until I stumbled across the reviews for Speed Queen. Everyone loved them. Other than a few repair issues, there were nothing but glowing reviews, and not one person complained about mildew. I ponied up the cash and bought myself a set. I went for the electronic control panel.\n\nThe change in my clothes was instantaneous. My laundry room instantly got that old fashioned fresh, clean laundry smell. My cloths were definitely cleaner. After one load my cotton t-shirts smelled significantly better. I could do yard work for a couple of hours before the mildew came back. They weren't good enough though. I didn't want to ever smell mildew again. I soaked all of my t-shirts in a sink with about a cup of vinegar. This killed the mold and the speed queens were easily able to get the vinegar smell out. I can't believe how much  better my whole house smells because of the speed queens.\n\nIf you are here because you hate smelling like mildew, then these are the machines for you... Oh, and by the way, my washer still fills all the way up with water.  The only thing that I don't like about them is the ECO feature, it can be turned off though.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3908, "id": 340979, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 509, "len_tokens": 600, "text": "After about 15 years or so of having our whirlpool top loader with agitator, it finally started showing signs that it was giving up. So over the past several months or so I have been researching washing machines. One thing that I notice about most people who own a \"HE\" top load washing machine is either the thing breaks A LOT or people hate it because it doesn't seem to clean clothes that well. So, I also decided to research front loaders..............and unfortunately, you get a similar bleak picture regarding front loading machines. You hear about error codes where the washing machine will no longer work and needs service, part failures, etc. What the heck happened to a simple old school washing machine? Well the one company that seems to sell them is Speed Queen. It seems like everyone loves their Speed Queen's reliability and ability to clean clothes quickly and efficiently. I do admit that the price tag on the Speed Queen's can make you squirm in your chair and make you have 2nd thoughts about purchasing this machine when Whirlpool and some other manufacturers still make an old school washer. So what prompted me to purchase Speed Queen vs other brands? Simple. Look at the way they are built and check out their standard warranty on Speed Queen's website! Now granted........I have only had my Speed Queen for about a week but I have already done about 15-20 loads of laundry since it was delivered. Keep in mind that there is some residual black residue inside the washer. I simply filled the tub with hot water and detergent and ran 2 full cycles. That seemed to eliminate a good majority of it instead of having to scrub the heck out of the washer. After the 2 initial cycles, I then added rags and towels to a 3rd cycle and found that there was still a little bit of the black residue inside. However, the washing of the rags and crappy towels removed whatever remaining black residue was in the tub. So no scrubbing of the tub for me. Let the machine do it for you. Yes this machine is a little noisy but if it means my clothes are being washed properly and not in 6 inches of water like the HE machines I'll take it! On a heavy duty cycle with extra large load, heavy soil, and adding the 2nd rinse option takes the washer about 40-45 minutes from start to finish. So far, I'm very pleased with it. I'll update later down the road if I notice anything.\n\n***UPDATE***\nI've had my Speed Queen for almost a year and it's still running like champ with no isses! I'm very pleased with my washing machine. This machine can see upwards of 20 loads of laundry at any given time within a span of 2 days. I would have kicked myself in the ass if I would have bought an \"HE\" machine. Best \"old school\" washing machine that I have seen or used so far. Love it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3909, "id": 343877, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 549, "len_tokens": 632, "text": "I've owned this refrigerator since the end of March 2015.  I was looking for a replacement water filter and came across the frig on Amazon and out of curiosity read the few reviews on here.\n\nHere are my thoughts after owning it for nine months:\n\nThe configuration for my family of four including two small children is wonderful.  Having four doors with bins and adjustable shelving allows us more flexibility then any other refrigerator I've seen.\n\nWith the flexible shelves in the frig and doors you can pretty much fit items of any height and most widths.  As it is counter depth with an ice maker and THREE compressors fitting deep items in it can be trickier.\n\nLooks great but smudges easily.  Magnets can be put on the sides but not on the front.  Even if they could magnets WILL scratch almost ALL stainless steel.\n\nOur frig is pretty quiet the vast majority of the time accept an average sound level for a frig when water is entering to make more ice.\n\nIce maker produces ice as fast or faster than most in-door ice making refrigerators.  Downside is that you need to use a wide mouthed cup held close to the dispenser top to avoid crushed ice and even cubes when they first come out from missing the cup.\n\nAppears to be far more energy efficient than most other similar refrigerators.\n\nWater comes out of the dispenser at high pressure.  The good is that it fills things fast.  The bad is shallow cups, measuring cups, or cups with narrow openings often lead to splashing.  I find I often use a large cup and then pour the water in to a measuring cup or a bowl for things like oatmeal.\n\nThe frig has no protruding handles so there is nothing to break off or catch on when walking by it.  The are recessed and a part of the door.  I have not found them particularly difficult to get used to opening and my wife and kids including my 5 year old adjusted quickly to them.\n\nAs a prior reviewer also pointed out if you use the control lock feature it disables the water and ice.  Having small children I think this may have been intentional as my youngest likes the idea of being a big guy and filling his own cups but is too short to see what he's doing and if we're not watching him could make a huge mess of water and ice.  However, we have not used the control lock function as he has not attempted to use it without us...yet.\n\nIn summary it's a great fridge with a few small issues.  My wife loves it as it replaced a traditional French door with the bottom pullout freezer drawer she learned to dislike which we sold with the house when we moved.  Those bottom drawers make things difficult to find under layers of frozen food and do collect all kinds of dirt at the bottom.  Having the double doors on the bottom with bins and shelves fixes that problem.  If the full size version will both fit and look right/good in your kitchen then I recommend purchasing it at about the same price as it will offer you not only more storage space but more storage depth.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3910, "id": 343884, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 524, "len_tokens": 653, "text": "This fridge really struck me in the store and I am very impressed by the build quality and the innovative freezer storage compartments.  The layout of the 4 door is absolutely amazing and wonderful to work with.  All my food is perfectly eye level...  which might be dangerous for me in the long run!\n\nMy first issue when filling this unit was that I kept running into areas where my things did not fit.  It is amazing how many items were about 1 inch too tall to fit in a bin, or on a shelf.  The flexible shelving is awesome, but 100% necessary to fit a normal jug of OJ, a wine bottle, a 2 liter, etc.  I had a lot of condiments that also did not fit into the door bins due to height.  Maybe I will need to buy smaller condiment containers (not family size) to remedy this issue.  Still trying to figure out exactly where to put everything to maximize storage options...\n\nHere is my biggest suggestion on this refrigerator - If you can fit the bigger 30 cu ft version in your space - Do it.  While this feels like there is a lot of storage, I am limited with too many items that are too tall - and having more cubic footage would be awesome.  The larger model will have more than enough storage space and the price is the same.  I opted for looks over volume...  (Counter depth) make your own decision here.\n\nAlso, the flexible unit in the lower right is FANTASTIC.  I set it up at \"chill\" which sets the unit to 30 degrees F (-1C) which is just below freezing.  I find this perfect for beer, soda, and other beverages.  You actually get that crisp cold cola thing!  Only water will freeze at this temp, so alcohol or sugar laden beverages will be just fine.  The regular fridge is recommended to be set at 37 degrees F.  I enjoy keeping food up in the fridge, and beverages in the lower right section.  Looks awesome, and makes it super easy for anyone to find the right beverage.\n\nMy unit was delivered through a *BIgBox Store* because I was concerned about having a dud and needing to have it swapped out.  My local hub had over 100 of this model in stock.  Delivery was a breeze.  It literally took them less than 10 minutes to unbox and carry the unit into the house.  I paid for \"hook up\" but apparently they only hand you a 1/4\" PEX line to hook up yourself.  bummer.  My RO system requires 3/8\" line, so I had some work ahead of me anyway. No issues at all.  It fired up, lit up, and chilled down in less than 2 hours.  This process could not have been easier in my opinion.\n\nlast note - It has an anti fingerprint coating that isn't so anti fingerprint.  Oh well.\n\nOn the whole, I am truly enjoying this upgrade in the kitchen and look forward to years of use.  At least I will be once I figure out how to organize everything in the right places...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3911, "id": 343893, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 520, "len_tokens": 631, "text": "We've had this fridge for 10 months.  In that 10 months it's worked wonderfully.  NO issues that you see with the icemaker that so many other experience.  It's a wonderful looking fridge!  Everyone that comes is amazed that it has 4 doors and different cooling zones, etc.  It just looks different.  I was super excited to get this fridge and considering the original price at almost $4k you would expect it to last.\n\nTwo weeks ago the bottom portion of the freezer/fridge stopped working.  It happened on a Friday and since we were not home on the weekend we came home on Monday to find that everything in the Freezer/cooling zone was bad (that was a nice mess to clean up).  Ok, things happen and things break.  That's life.  However multiple attempts to contact Samsung in this matter ended with sending multiple techs, who flat out told us \"we can not fix this\" we will put a trouble ticket to Samsung and they will call you.  Guess what?  They didn't call.  Their customer service is on par with cable companies... IE: HORRIBLE.  They read from a script and transfer you to multiple people.  My wife was on the phone for 2 hours today trying to get a resolution on a fix.  They don't seem to grasp that most people can't be without a fridge, especially if you have young children in the house or a new born baby...\n\nI don't have a problem if someone can't fix something, but ultimately there comes a resolution that is quick and responsive, what bothers me is that either my wife or myself have to call off from work because the tech is coming only to be told on the day they should be arriving that \"we do not fix that problem, we will contact Samsung for you\"... Taking days off cost money, and depending on what you do can be very expensive, so doing this 3-4 times and what you end up having is the cost of the fridge in days that you have missed work.\n\nNow our ice cube maker doesn't work, along with the entire bottom portion of the fridge not working.  I'm sorry but for as expensive as this unit is, that is completely unacceptable.  We have a \"builder\" grade fridge that is in the basement that is over 10+ years old AND it's been moved multiple times to different locations and it works, it just keeps chugging along.\n\nIf you are looking for a beautiful looking fridge that will WOW people when they walk in but then not work and have to deal with horrible customer service and techs that are unable to fix the fridge, this IS the fridge to get!!  I can't stress that enough!\n\nI LOVE Samsung products, I really do, we have a WHOLE slough of their products from TV's, electronics, computer hardware, etc.  And I can honestly say this whole experience with their fridge has put such a sour taste in my mouth that I am very reluctant to ever consider them for appliances in my lifetime or recommend them to anyone again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3912, "id": 346479, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 551, "len_tokens": 682, "text": "I purchased this machine several months ago and have been using it to wash my clothes.  I still take larger items and items like towels, washcloths and socks to the laundromat (items that either don't fit into the washer or don't do well with air drying - the towels, washcloths and socks I have found for me really need the fluff-drying that a hot air dryer provides, otherwise they get really stiff and uncomfortable to use).  But for washing my clothing, this little guy really does a good job.\n\nCaveats:\n\n1)If you don't load enough items into it to - for lack of a better term - stabilize the water, when it gets going it can create what I like to call the whirlpool effect and slop water over the sides of the bucket.  Even if the lid were able to lock down tight enough to prevent the water spillage (it doesn't), there are holes in the lid.  However, through trial and error I have figured out that if I put enough clothes into each load (but not too much, otherwise the machine stops working), it prevents this whirlpool effect.  For me, as a large woman, that would be a floor-length skirt, two bras and two pairs of underwear.  Your mileage may vary.  I also keep a hand towel draped around the base in case of spillage.\n\n2)I have found that the knobs can be difficult to grasp and turn - if my hands are wet.  That's the other reason I keep a hand towel handy, so that I can dry my hands before turning the knob.\n\n3)I generally work my way from lights to dark.  The reason for this is because I lift the clothing out by hand once it's washed - into a smaller tupperware \"bucket\" that I used for just this purpose - add a bit more water to bring the level back up (since some of the water goes with the washed clothes), and reuse the water for the next load.  I go from light to dark because as we all know sometimes dye leaks out of clothes and you don't want to have to change out the water more than necessary.\n\n4)I started out filling the smaller tupperware bucket with water and then pouring it from the tupperware bucket into the machine, but then I had an epiphany.  I have located the washer next to my kitchen sink, and my kitchen sink has a sprayer.  So now I put the detergent, colorsafe bleach and softener in first, then use the sprayer to add water.  Much easier.\n\n5)The other reason I located the washer next to my kitchen sink was for ease of rinsing.  For larger items (like skirts, pants and shirts), I generally run water over the items while kneading them against the side of the sink.  For smaller items, I generally hold them in my hands while kneading them under the water flow.  Works like a charm.\n\n6)To save myself from getting arthritis from hand-wringing out the items (and to speed the drying time), I also got a spin dryer.  (A Mini Countertop Spin Dryer Clothes Spin Dryer Portable Clothes Dryer\nfrom The Laundry Alternative, purchased through Amazon).  Works great.\n\nAll in all a handy little apppliance.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3913, "id": 346490, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 541, "len_tokens": 607, "text": "Recently, I am unable to drive and have to rely on others to get me to go to the places I need to go. I was really frustrated that I couldn't get to the laundramat to do the clothes I needed to do when I want too. I have a relative who isn't feeling well and I have to take care of him and it is imperative that he has clean clothes. \"Where there is order there is grace.\" I said a prayer to the angels to help me find a solution and solutions came. I came accross some reviews about this little washing machine and decided to purchase one. It is truly wonderful. Our clothes come out very clean and after they have dried are very fresh smelling. It is a small chore to do a little everyday and before you know it the clothes hamper is close to empty. Obviously this is not a major washing machine that is equipped to do all the functions, such as all the cycles but the essentials are there. To help anyone, here are a couple of things that has helped me to get a clean wash. Today in one load I did a pillow case, two kitchen towels, four boxer shorts, two cotton underwear. I find it easy to put the clothes in first then the water. I have two buckets 85% filled with water. In one bucket I put in Tide Cold Water detergent(use very little, if too much it will get really sudsy). I also put in the bucket of water some bleach. I mix it around and then pour it in the washer bucket to the line. Doing it this way insures that you will not put too much water and have it overflow. I put the unit on the machine. I then put the timer on for 15 minutes on standard cycle and then plug it in. After it is finished I then empty the soap water wring out the clothes by hand, place them back in the bucket and use the second bucket of water to fill for the rinse cycle. Since not too much soap is used, it usually takes only one rinse, but if you are very particular about soaps being near your skin you can rinse as much as you like. After the first cycle I save the water if it is not too dirty for mopping the floors. The basic function of this machine is the twisting action so therefore wash and rinse share the same function. Voila, the clothes come out clean, and since I live in sunny California they dry quickly. I love this machine. Just be aware it will not take large items such as blankets. I put in a microfiber robe and it was too much for it, when this happens the machine just doesn't work. The only hard part to this machine is twisting the timer, when you have arthritis it is hard. That is why I turn the timer on first to get a better angle for the turn. I love this machine and it has put a lot of order in my life, it is truly an answer to a prayer. Thankyou dear angels!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3914, "id": 347447, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 500, "len_tokens": 642, "text": "The Ivation Portable Ice Maker is the perfect addition to anyones kitchen. It provides small ice cubes without much wait. Details below.\n\n Package Contents\n Ivation Portable Ice Maker\n Ice Tray\n Ice Scoop\n User Manual\n\n Specifications\n Ice Making Capacity: 26.5lbs\n Max Ice Storage: 28.22 oz\n Water Max Water Storage: 2.2L\n Net Weight: 24lbs\n\n Hardware & Testing\nThe Ivation Portable Ice Maker may be compact for an ice maker, but it is easily the largest small appliance in my kitchen  and I have a Kitchenaid Stand Mixer. That being said, it is still impressively small.\n\nThe best comparison I could make to this ice maker is a mini refrigerator. After the hinge cover is lifted, it reveals the ice tray. Under the ice tray is the reservoir that stores 2.2L of water, but Id say its closer to 1.5L if the ice tray is used. I could take three Aquafina or Great Value 16.9 FL OZ water bottles to fill the reservoir.  The water will then go through the freezing process, and then cling, the ice is made and fills the ice tray.\n\nI would say with almost certainty that there is no filter inside the ice maker. Use filtered water.\n\nIve used this ice maker for two days straight. Set up is almost too easy. After filling the reservoir, simply press the power button. On 1L of water (two 16.9 FL OZ water bottles), it is capable of making ice is less than 10 minutes, and capable of filling the entire 7.75 x 5 x 3.25 ice tray in two hours. The best thing is that the ice maker is constantly making ice. If any ice is melted, it is remade into ice.\n\nThe ice maker may occasionally have an annoying beeping sound when water is low, but it doesnt happen often. Maybe once every 3 to 4 hours. Otherwise, when making ice, it is otherwise silent.\n\nThe second best thing about this ice maker is the size of the ice cubes. Cubes may in ice cube trays or by refrigerators are always large  too large. The ice cubes in the Ivation Ice Cube maker are rounded and only 1 x 1 x 1. I could easily use these in sport drink bottles.\n\nAfterwards, cleaning and maintenance is very easy. There is a water cap at the back of the ice maker to release any excess fluid. Just use water and a clean cloth to finish the job.\n\n Final Thoughts\nThere is very little that is wrong with the Ivation Ice Maker. It is portable, makes perfect ice cubes, makes ice fast, and cleaning is effortless. Everything about this ice maker is convenient and easy to use, which is why I give it a 5 star rating.\n\n Pros:\n+ Makes ice fast\n+ Makes perfect sized ice cubes\n+ Convenient\n+ Easy to use\n+ Large reservoir\n+ Easy to clean\n\n Cons:\n- Makes annoying beeping sound occasionally\n\n I was provided a sample in exchange for a thorough and honest review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3915, "id": 347932, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 447, "len_tokens": 606, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R3EOSPSPFI6D74\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/E1Fn4laA1qS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/01gsNrxQtUS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;This is a review of the Knox Compact Ice Maker. I received a free sample for review.\n\nWhat a cool little ice maker. This little thing is perfect for parties or gatherings. It's really a nuisance when your refrigerator freezer runs out of ice. It seems to take forever for an ice cube to drop out, now and then. This Knox ice maker churns out ice at a reliable rate of 1 pound per hour.\n\nThe ice maker is pretty easy to operate although the user guide could use a serious makeover.\n\nEssentially you pour water into the water reservoir to the fill line. Drop in the ice collection tray and turn the machine on. Ice production begins immediately and you'll have your first ice cubes in about 15 minutes for the first batch, then about every 10 minutes per batch after that. The ice tray will fill in 2 hours. If you don't remove the ice at that point, the machine will turn itself off. If you remove the ice before that happens, ice will be made continuously as long as you keep refilling the reservoir. A full reservoir will enable the machine to produce about 3 full trays of ice and take about 6 hours to do that.\n\nYou can choose small, medium or larger size ice \"cubes\" although the difference in size isn't that much. The \"cubes\" have holes in them which are caused by the way the ice is made. Bottom line is that because of the holes, the ice melts faster than a solid ice cube would. But still, this is a huge advantage to have this ice maker at a party since it is continually churning out ice.\n\nOperation is fairly quiet. You do hear the hum of the fan and compressor, but it's not really noticeable in a room with other noise occurring... like people talking or with music in the background. It's really not noticeable or objectionable even in a quiet room but you will hear it.\n\nThe control panel lets you set the current time and an on and off time for the machine. You get indications of when the ice bucket is full (ice production stops automatically at that point), when water is low, and several other indicators.\n\nWhen you are done making ice, there is an easy way to drain the remaining water out of the reservoir. A small drain plug is on the back of the machine, Unscrew the cap and water can be drained into a sink or container held underneath.\n\nI think this is fairly priced and it works well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3916, "id": 351180, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 579, "len_tokens": 671, "text": "I bought the exact same washer/dryer unit around 4-5 years ago, it just had different branding. It died on Tuesday and I had this one delivered to my front door Thursday morning. The one I had, the dryer stopped working right after a year. Some things you can fix yourself - it's not that complex of a washer/dryer, but after emailing back and forth with the seller we realized it wasn't something simple. I hardly just wanted to toss the unit so I kept using the washer part for several years and I would just ring out my clothes. It was a pretty good little washer. But Tuesday I had run it for hours, there was a lot of laundry. I finally finished my last load and the machine was off. I was sitting in the living room when I heard a funny noise in the kitchen. I got up to go see what it was and walked in just in time to see sparks shoot out the back. In the outlet I just had plugged in the washer/dryer and microwave. Neither one were running at the time. I quickly pulled both cords out and it blew that breaker. Smoke was coming from my machine. Luckily it's so lightweight I could easily drag it outside. Even after it sat out there for an hour, the machine still had a kind of burning electrical smell. I carried it out to the dumpster and that was that.\n\nI got on Amazon and started shopping and even after all that, I still love this style of washer/dryer. Many people have them and if my experience was indicative of this machine, there would be more people talking about it. It could happen with any appliance - and I did work this washer hard on a regular basis. It gave me a lot of good use and I enjoyed having it. When I found this listing, I knew it was the one. The seller got it here super-fast and I got to test this one out last night. While it looks the same, it ran different but better. The agitation is much stronger. I put the same amount of soap in the first load but the suds went all crazy. It was full of suds. I had to scoop them out then run it again after filling only with cold water. I'll use about 1/4 of the detergent in this one than what I used in the old one. I also lifted up the lid while it was washing and holy heck, it really was moving everything around a lot. They may have improved upon this washer in the last few years. I also tested out the dryer. On my old one, it seemed that plastic insert thing would frequently get off balanced (when it was still working). I was almost afraid to test it, to ruin the \"magic\" because I was so happy about having a washer. Upon testing it, it stayed balanced and squeezed all the moisture out. So far, I'm pretty thrilled!\n\nUpdate: I just wanted to come back real quick to say I'm still loving this washer/dryer combo! My clothes are much cleaner. Also, I noticed there is this lip going around the top of the spin/dry barrel I hadn't seen in my last unit. It makes it less likely the plastic insert would come out by accident. I feel convinced now they did make improvements over the years.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3917, "id": 352459, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 531, "len_tokens": 640, "text": "Pros:\nHaven't seen much of a change to my electric bill but I don't pay for water and I personally think this might increase it if I did.\nbigger than expected\nLighter than expected\nEasy to clean\nCan wash adults clothing size 3x, work pants, jeans, shirts.\nChildren clothing size 6-7\nbabys clothing\nbedsheets for crib, twin and full size beds.\nregular towels and beach towels.\nSpin drier is fast, and leaves clothing barely damp.\nCan wash plushies with no damage (so far)\n\nCons:\nWater tube doesn't fit on sink, I don't mind filling with bucket.\nLint trap doesn't work so be mindful what you mix with your clothes.\ndrainage is ok, I place mine on a table and a bucket below it to help with gravity, since I don't like the idea of water still in the machine all nasty.\nleaks but only when over stressed with a huge load.\n\nI already recommended this to a few friends who also have small apartments.\nI live in a small apartment with a active messy family and our landlord isn't planning to repair the washer and drier in his building that he promised 6 months ago.\nI was washing everything by hand which took a toll on my hands and back, was worried about getting this and now im a huge fan.\n\njust be mindful of what you put together, I recommend putting socks and towels together and thats it because of the lint.\nThis is how I wash my loads\nWash for 15 mins small load amount of soap and 2tbs baking soda, drain into bucket (I use because machine is placed on a table for gravity to help drain better), placed in spin dry to remove the extra water in the clothes then back into the washer with softener and scent boost. (My fiance, his coworkers and my son looove the scent boosters and the rest of the soap and softener are without dyes and scents.)\nonce that is done, I let it sit for 5 mins and then drain and placed in spin drier again. Pull out and hang up and let it dry with the fan (we hang our stuff inside we don't have a backyard.\nOn tough dirty clothes if I see the water is really bad the first wash, I do a second wash before putting it in for softener.\nSmall amount of soap, that goes a long way, keep in mind this washer is fairly small compared to regular washers so you don't need all that soap it will just make a mess of bubbles.\nFor stains that are dried and set in fabric I recommend pre-treatment or pre--soak (I do it over night) then wash like normal in the morning.\nI prefer washing in cold water because of the colors in the clothes so that they don't bleed out so much (which happened once already)\n\nHopefully this review helps someone, I hate getting product that are falsely reviewed and spending money on things that don't work!\nSo I decided to start doing reviews of everything I buy on amazon and on walmart.com\nIf this helps please hit the helpful button if you don't mind.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3918, "id": 352478, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 542, "len_tokens": 634, "text": "We bought this machine a few weeks ago after moving into a new place that did not have a washer/dryer hook-up. After our first trip to the laundromat where we spent 30 bucks, we realized we wanted to have our own machine in our own home. This washer/dryer combo is great for anyone in an apartment, any place where space is tight, or going to the laundromat is not ideal. It does require more time and effort, but for anyone who doesnt mind, its easy to use, its small, and gets the job done.\n\nUser Friendliness:\nThis machine is simple and easy to use. There isn't much to it, as there are only a few settings.  The instruction manual is translated poorly, but from the simplicity of the machine and watching a video online, we figured it out without any problems. We found that filling a bucket with water and pouring it into the washer is quick and most effective (the hose that came with it didn't fit any of our faucets.) Using a bucket also allows you more control over the amount of water and the temperature. It is definitely more hands-on than a fully automatic machine, though. After washing a load, you have to drain the water and then refill it to rinse. While it is more work, we like that we can monitor how clean the clothes are getting. It also makes for a great work-out!\n\nSize:\nThe size of this machine is smaller than what most Americans might be used to in a washer. Don't let that fool you! While it is necessary to be mindful of how much you put in one load, it handles a decent amount of material. I have been able to wash three pairs of yoga pants with four or five shirts and it worked fine. The spin dry doesnt hold as much as the washer, so you do have to portion out your load when you transfer to the dryer. It might be small, but that means its also light-weight. This makes it easy to move when we need it. We are able to lift the whole thing and place it in our bathtub. Doing so gives us quick access to a faucet and allows us to drain straight into the bathtub. When were done with it, we just tuck it back into a corner of our bathroom where its out of the way.\n\nGetting the job done:\nThis machine does what its supposed to do: it gets your clothes clean. You can actually see the dirt and grime coming out as its washing. Sometimes we do another rinse cycle if the water is particularly dirty, but we know whats being washed is getting clean. Its also fairly quick, with a ten minute average wash cycle time. The spin dry is a little different if you're used to a dryer that uses heat. Your clothes, or whatever you're washing, will not come out 100% dry. On the flip-side, the spin dry does get most of the water out, to where it only feels slightly dampthis is after a five-minute spin cycle! Weve been able to hang up our clothes with a fan blowing on them and they were dry within an hour.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3919, "id": 352490, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 521, "len_tokens": 600, "text": "**UPDATE** - I've had this for a year now, and let me tell ya - this is a BEAST!  It washes its little heart out!  Since I wrote the review last year, we bought a pump to go in the creek and 300' of hose so that I don't have to carry buckets of water anymore (whew). I lost track of how many loads of clothes I've done. I do know that it doesn't work too well if you pack too much in there - better to do 2 smaller loads than one big one, which is true of any washer (in this case, I think it has more to do with the weight of the clothes once wet - for example, towels get really heavy when wet, so only one or 2 at a time, vs lighter clothing like shirts and underwear for which you can wash a much larger load). Bottom line - I'm still very, very pleased with this washer.\nOriginal Review:\nI bought this for our camper - we have it setup on some land and it's our getaway for a few days every couple of months or so. We have electricity, but no running water, but there is a creek which we can get water from. And this was actually an important selling point - I needed a washer that I could manually add water to as I have no way to hook it up to water - so I used a small bucket (about 2 gal) to get water from the creek. I was pleasantly surprised at how large the wash side is. I've only used it once so far - I put 1 pr jeans, 6 pr underwear, 3 pr socks and 1 set of long (thermal) underwear in the wash bin, added 1 bucket of water and a little liquid detergent. Mind you, it was about 35 degrees outside (that's where the washer is - no room inside). Even a little detergent went a long way and I could have used less. I set the washer on 15 min, then spun them out (I divided the load and spun out 1/2 separately) to remove the detergent. Then put back in the washer and added another bucket of water to rinse - I just set it on 5 minutes of the wash cycle. Then spun them out again, hung them up to dry. The washer did an excellent job at cleaning the clothes. The spin dryer side allows you to add rinse water while it's spinning - I have no way of doing that with my setup, but it looks interesting and will try it the day we get running water hooked up. When I was done, I set the drain hose on the ground and turned the knob to drain to make sure all water was pumped out of the pump and hose. Then I tilted the washer on all 4 sides to make sure no water left as I have to store it in a barn - it will freeze and I didn't want a busted pump or hose.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3920, "id": 352608, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 506, "len_tokens": 644, "text": "So first things first...none of the dimensions shown are correct. It is shown as a 30\" range hood, but the actual width is 29.5 inches. The height is (I think) listed as nine inches, but you can tell by the photos that it is not. I can't recall whether it is 4\" tall or 5\" tall, but I do recall that it is one inch less tall than the old white Broan range hood I replaced. If you look at the picyures and the cut outs on the back, you can more or less guess its acual height.\n\nThat's the bad...now, the good...\n\nFirst, the look. I had to center it due to it being 1/2\" shorter (less wide) than what it replaced, but I have to say, it looks great. I love the look and tactile feel of the buttons up-front; it's a very clean and understated design.\n\nThis thing is capable of moving quiet a bit of air; the various speeds coupled with the two fans probably;y means that this will never lag in terms of exhausting the heat and odors from your range. One thing is a bit of a misnomer to me, and that is the \"Q\" (Quiet) setting; as a noise and vibration Engineer, I have come to learn that 'quiet' is a relative term, and this is no exception. In fact, I would have liked (preferred) another speed that was 1/2 the rate as that on the \"Q\" setting, but truthfully, I am willing to live with the additional noise because it does what it is designed to do - reject heat from the range area - very, very well. On the highest setting it's quite impressive but also loud. This makes sense because moving a lot of air in a very quiet fashion is easier said than done.\n\nAgain, all in all, I really like the looks and performance of this, and my sole caveat is that I would have preferred a \"Q/2\" speed setting, but as the French say... c'est la vie.\n\nAesthetically, it looks quite nice - even from the underside. The grilles look...well...'the business' (as the Brits say) and much more professional than did the grill on the Broan range hood that I replaced. I really like the look of the grates.\n\nThe LED lighting is also nice, and again, this is a feature that, like the \"quiet\" fan setting I wish had a setting that was 1/2 as bright (for very late night use), but that's a matter of preference. In terms of illuminating the surface of your range or cook top, it should do the job nicely.\n\nAll in all, I really like this. I could not give it five stars due to the two main issues that I mentioned (the half-speed and half-brightness wish list items), but if I set those aside, overall, I am really happy with this purchase. It's a subtle change but it really change the look of that area of my kitchen. I should have bought this long ago.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3921, "id": 360970, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 522, "len_tokens": 612, "text": "I would have given it five starts if it wasn't a pain to install the duct work for the fan and if it was a little easier to clean.\nI replaced a Jenn-Air with this one.\nThe knobs are WAY stronger than the crap ones on my last stove (which were ridiculously expensive to replace). I love that the knobs are in the middle. My last ones were in the corners and I couldn't use my big pan on the burners without having to move the pan slightly off to fit. However, the knobs are so close together that it's hard to get clean in that little space. If you're OCD like me, you will have to wipe it down for a while every night. The more you wipe the more oil smears and streaks the glass. And the glass is harder to keep clean than the Jenn-Air. A lot of elbow grease but it's beautiful when it's done.\n\nThe fan has three levels and is powerful. I have only needed the lowest so far.\nAlso, there's a burner lock. If you have it set to on, it will sound a buzzer alarm if a burner is turned on. I'll likely never use it but perhaps a good feature for someone out there.\nThe burners are great. Even heat, heat up pretty fast, and the various sizes are working well with all my different pans.\n\nMy husband had a fun time installing the fan because these geniuses made the duct squared instead of round like the one already under our cabinet. He had to customize it. If you're not handy make sure you get someone who is. It's a pain, especially if you don't have much room under the stove. You will need to make a trip (or two) to Home Depot to install the fan if your original is round.\n\nOther than that I love it. I cook 3-4 meals a day and have used it for over a week now. Since there are so few glass tops with a down draft to choose from I'm glad this one is so nice and I didn't have to settle for mediocre. Overall, very happy with my purchase.\n\nUPDATE:\nBeen using this for about 3 months now. I still love the stove top for a lot of reasons: The heat levels, the size of the burners and overall function.\nI will add from my previous review that the fan is good but has a harder time with high pots (which I don't use often). And to expand on the surface of it....well, it's such a pain to keep clean and scratches so easily. If you cook at all on this, it's impossible to keep nice. Let go of the OCD early on or it will drive you nuts every night.\nLastly, when I reach down into the fan to clean it out I continually get cut from the screw in there. I need to cover it with something. Other than that, it's pretty easy to clean the inside, the filter and the vent top.\nOverall, I really like this stove top.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3922, "id": 361290, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 535, "len_tokens": 660, "text": "I have both the round 12\" and the 9x13\" lids, and Amazon keeps putting whatever I type in the review on both product pages, so I'm going to review both of them here, since they were both excellent, 5 star products\n\n*great seal that keeps food fresh\n*easy to remove and put on\n*easy cleaning (no grooves like snap on lids)\n*can be used on bowls smaller than 12\"/ most 9x13 pans\n\n-won't stay on if you turn the bowl upside down\n-limited colors\n-potential to stain from dark/red things (like most plastic and silicone)\n\nI was a little late to the silicone party, but now that I have started using it, I love it. The bottom of each is flat and smooth, except for where the handle is. They kind of suction cup the container/bowl and form an air tight seal, which helps to keep food fresh longer. My banana bread stayed fresh for about a week. You would think that it would be hard to remove; however, it peals right off when you pull up on the tab. My family has arthritis and carpal tunnel, so the idea of an easy on/easy off lid is appealing to me. The one thing I don't like is that it is the limited color selection, everything else in my kitchen is green.\n\nThe 9x13:\nI ordered this lid for my old metal 9x13 pan that never had a lid; however, when I received it, I happened to have a 9x13 plastic container on my counter, so I popped off the plastic lid, which didn't seem to be air tight, and set the lid on top. I wasn't impressed because it just seemed to sit there. Then I tried to take it off by pulling up on the handle. The whole container, which was full of banana bread, lifted right off the counter. I wouldn't say that I would carry it around the kitchen that way since you never know when the weight will get to be too much and the seal will break, dropping your stuff in the floor, but it's nice to know how good of a seal it has. I tried it on both my metal pan and my pyrex glass pan, which has a lid but what the hey!. It was able to pick up both pans! That's a great seal. I didn't think that it was going to work with my metal pan at first because it seemed to barely cover the squared off corners, but to my delighted surprise, it did. Since I already had food in the plastic container, I decided to try leaving it on that one. It kept my banana bread loaves moist and fresh tasting for about a week.\n\nThe 12\":\nI got this one after seeing how great the 9x13 was. I tested it on my 12 glass bowl and a plastic container, and it fit both. I was making homemade frosting in with my stand mix, and that bowl (metal) doesn't have a lid, so while the cake was baking, I stored my frosting in the refrigerator in that bowl with the 12\" lid. The bowl is only 8.5\" but it still worked well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3923, "id": 361824, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 467, "len_tokens": 650, "text": "This. thing. is. awesome. AWESOME. If you hate the laundromat as much as me, and don't have washer/dryer hookups at your place, you need THIS.\n\nPros:\nNo more quarters\nLow water use\nFAST - thorough wash cycle is done in 20 minutes\nGood capacity - holds about 2/3-3/4 as much as a normal washing machine would (more on this later)\nQuiet** (with some preparation - more on this later)\nEasy to use\n\nCons:\nNone, if you follow the directions. See my little use guide below.\n\nHOW TO BE HAPPY WITH THIS WASHER\n1) USE A HAIR TRAP/CLOG PREVENTION DEVICE IN YOUR DRAIN SINK OR TUB OR WHATEVER. Yes it has a lint filter but LINT AND DIRT WILL STILL GET IN THE DRAIN WATER. So, use a hair trap and you're good. Otherwise you will clog your pipes over time and your landlord won't appreciate your washer as much as you do :)\n2) Use less detergent than you're used to, and use liquid detergent. I find filling the detergent cup up to the first line to be sufficient for a full load.\n3) Do not stuff it full of clothes. In fact, first weigh yourself while holding an empty laundry basket, then the basket full of a load of clothes, and then you can judge how much 8.8lbs of clothes is. Then put it roughly six or so. You'll be fine.\n4) YOU MUST KEEP THE DRAIN TUBE HIGHER THAN THE TOP OF THE WASHER. you can't stick it in your bathtub; the siphon effect will drain all the water from the washer and it won't fill.\n5) After the wash and spin is done, it can be helpful to put the drain tube lower than the washer to get out any remaining water from the tub and drain tubes. If you're in a bathroom, just stick it in the bathtub. But only after the cycle is done! And then hang it back up in the sink just in case.\n6) Buy some anti vibration pads to put under the washer if you're in an upper level apartment, or even just in general. This decouples it from the floor. The unit is quiet, but will transmit vibration if you don't isolate it from the floor. This will keep things VERY VERY quiet and your neighbors will thank you. The Diversitech MP4 Antivibration Pads, bought on Amazon, are PERFECT and absolutely work. Worth the $20 or so for sure. http://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP4-V-Anti-Vibration-Pack/dp/B00BVEMLR4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00\n7) No leaks or trouble with proper setup - make sure all hose connections are tight and secure; make sure all washers are present in connecting pieces before turning on faucet, if absolutely needed use some teflon tape on the threads. Keep a few old towels handy the first time you run it just in case.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3924, "id": 361825, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 566, "len_tokens": 669, "text": "This is a great machine!\n\nI have read the other reviews - people have had issues with leaks from the sink hose. My advice? Read the directions! They specifically state different instructions for sinks with interior or exterior threads. This will affect where the washer (not the machine, the little washer that goes into the fitting) is used, or if it is used at all. The water hose that connects to the washer needs to be a tad more than hand tight, but again, the instructions tell you this. There are also a few great youtube videos that will also give you helpful hints. I suggest you look at them before you make a decision!\n\nThere are 2 lint traps - one that comes out completely, and one that does not. Keeping these lint traps clean will significantly reduce the amount of lint that comes out of the drain hose (and essentially down your drain). I have heard that people will put a stocking on the sink side of the drain hose, and it seems to work well for them, but ew! Plus I'm lazy (and cheap!). If I keep the lint traps clean, there is very little lint in my sink after a load.\n\nMy kitchen is not horribly level, and this unit is not entirely portable. It is generally portable, yes - it is only about 60 lbs, and has carrying handles (awkward for me at 5'3, but not impossible) for easy movement, but has no wheels. Since I keep mine in the kitchen and my kitchen is small, I bought a nice little telescoping furniture dolly and plopped the washer on top of it. I have no issues with leaks (because my floor is not level), and the dolly makes it easy peasy to wheel around to use when I need it. It is an extra cost, but worth it in the long run. I don't plan on moving any time soon, and this little set up really fits the bill.\n\nHow much soap do you use? I use less than half what I would normally use in a regular washer. There is a place to put bleach (read the instructions, really, it's there), but not really any place to put liquid fabric softener.  The tub only fills ONE time (thus the light water usage, which is great for those who have to pay for their own water), yet it still manages to rinse well. You can opt just to rinse your clothes if you like. There is a heavy duty cycle option also - I have put rugs in this little washer, used the heavy duty cycle, and my rugs came clean.\n\nIn my opinion, if this product is just a few dollars more than the 1 cu ft, buy this one. Double your capacity for less than $50? Definitely worth it. I live by myself (with a small dog who has her own bed and wardrobe - don't judge!), and the extra capacity is handy to have without being too bulky. I do about 4-5 loads per week, including towels, linens, dog blankets and my own clothes. It takes almost no time, and I (almost) enjoy doing laundry. This machine is relatively quiet, and is easy to connect, operate, and disconnect.  I did not buy the matching dryer due to the price point, but I do trust this brand.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3925, "id": 361830, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 478, "len_tokens": 613, "text": "I purchased this washer unit (along with the Haier HPL141E 2.6 cu. ft. Compact Electric Vented Dryer as a pair) for an \"apartment\" that I moved in to. The apartment is a whole basement but because the basement was not intended as an apartment there are several issues I deal with. Which is where this washer/dryer pair come in!\n\nUseful Features:\n#1: This washer/dryer set runs off a 120 volt outlet. I do not have a traditional washer/dryer hookup, so this is a godsend!\n#2: The size is great! The washer weighs just 60LBS and can be moved by most men and women, and can have casters installed for your convenience. The dryer is lighter (closer to 40 of 50LBS) and is meant to be wall-mounted. By wall mounting the dryer, you can keep the washer underneath it and have a \"stack\" if you will.\n3.) These machines REALLY get your clothes clean. I always had spare dog hair on my clothes when using a laundromat, or even my Parent's full sized high-effeciency washers. Not these machines! These are the first machines that truly seem to get my clothes clean.\n4.) Both machines add up to roughly 1 line of electricity (15 amps) and can be put on a dedicated line by themselves.\n5.) The washing machine can either be hooked up to traditional laundry hookups, but it also comes with a setup so that you can put the water line on a faucet. For somebody like me who has no hookups, this is a godsend.\n6.) These machines are made to clean when fully loaded. My parent's machines could only be half-loaded, otherwise the machines didn't do their job. These machines do their job fully loaded. Although it is a portable machine, I can fit 5 uniforms in 1. However, you cannot wash a comforter AND a sheet set at once. You will have to do this in two goes.\n7.) The washer is about 4X more effecient than than the most effeceint dryers on the market! The dryer is on par with the most effecient models on the market. You will not spend nearly as much on power with these units!\n\nCons:\n1.) You are running these machines in 120volt power. Therefore your dryer will not operate as fast. Consider that drying may take twice as long as a regular dryer (usually an hour and a half when full)\n2.) There is a major difference between wash times and dry times. The washer on max setting is 35 minutes (1 hour for the deep clean cycle.) The dryer takes an hour and thirty minutes. I usually run the washer an extra spin cycle in order to reduce this time difference.\n3.) The washer has a lent catch, as well as the dryer. Unfortunately you have a total of 3 lent catches to clean with every load.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3926, "id": 363168, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 541, "len_tokens": 635, "text": "We had a GE profile 36\" electric cooktop for almost 8 years & it broke last month .... the glass cooktop itself actually broke due to something being dropped on it.  It wasn't repairable or under warranty any more.  We looked into natural gas replacement first but found out it would cost $800 - $1000 just to have the gas line run to the kitchen so we decided it wasn't worth all that.  We opted for the induction cooktop instead.  It fit right into the same hole that had been cut out in our granite counters for the previous 36\" electric cooktop so that was a true blessing.  We did have to run higher gauge electrical wire (6 gauge) and put in a larger 220 breaker because the induction requires 50 amp 220 power to ensure that all burners have enough juice to operate on high at the same time if ever needed.  We were able to do that ourselves and it just cost us the price of the materials which was much less than the gas line would have costs us!\n\nSo far it is working great and is super fast!  Had to adjust how I was cooking a bit because you can boil water on this cooktop in less than 5 minutes easy. I did have to purchase some new pans but we were due for that anyway.  I purchased light weight cast iron that was enamel coated to prevent scratching of the glass cooktop.  I also bought a Scanpan CTX frying pan.  Let me tell you, that scanpan CTX is awesome & I have more on my Christmas list for this year :)  If you don't want to buy all new pans, you can try one of the induction metal discs that you put on the burner but I didn't see such good reviews for those on Amazon.\n\nWe have all GE profile appliances in our kitchen and they have been maintenance free for us these past 8 years so I am hoping that this induction cooktop will follow suite.  I also purchased the extended warranty through Amazon as well.  We also have a home warranty for our major appliances as well in case anything goes haywire.\n\nOn a side note, if anyone is interested, I saw an advertisement for induction that showed someone putting a paper towel on the cooktop element and then put their pan on top of that to show that the paper towel wouldn't burn but the water in the pan would still boil.  I'm not that brave (to use a paper towel) BUT I did get (off of Amazon) a set of 4 reusable silicone baking sheets/mats.  These are super thin like a sheet of paper & will work up to 500 degrees with no issues in the oven.  I put one of those between the induction burner & the pan and it was great!  I didn't have to worry about the pan scratching the cooktop and it made cleaning up the cooktop much easier after cooking because most of the \"spills\" were on the baking sheet & I just washed it off by hand in the sink & let it air dry in the dishwasher for next time.  Definitely recommend trying that.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3927, "id": 365664, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 471, "len_tokens": 616, "text": "This washer is wonderful, though you have to buy a few accessories to go with it, and the drain pump gets over worked.  Definition of overworked - If the right side of your washer just fills up with water/ or stops spinning, (or out of nowhere just seems to stop working), that's overworked. Then you can't drain water on the spin side for about 2 weeks, (while the machine cools off.  I just wash my clothes with soap, and then wash them in clear water, and dry spin them during that time)!  Other than that it works great!  The instructions are written in English, but they are not very clear!  So I've included some instructions here.  First load your clothes into the left tub, on the washer, then add your soap.  Attach the slim white hose to the water inlet hole on the left side and attach the other end of the hose at the sink nozzle.  You may need to purchase a, (dishwasher), adapter and replace your aerator with it, (see picture # 5 below).  Also you'll more than likely need a clamp, or something to hold the hose onto the adapter, (see picture # 1 below).  Run water into the tub through the hose.  When the water gets to the top, turn it off, and turn the 15 minute washer dial around to 15 minutes.  Have the hose over in the bath tub before you start to run the water in the wash tub, (so that you don't flood your floor)!  See picture # 4 below.  When the clothes are done washing turn the knob in the middle to the right where it says drain.  You may need to lower the drain hose into a drain pail to allow the water to start flowing at first.  Then put it back into the tub once it starts flowing.  You may need to purchase a drain pail, (see picture # 2 below).  Here's the link to copy and paste for that drain pail https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-17942-Black-Pan-Capacity/dp/B000JFHMVQ/ref=cm_cr-mr-title.  Once the clothes are drained take them out one by one, and in a balanced way put them into the spin side.  Put the plastic cover on top of the spin side and shut the lid down.  Put the water hose on the water inlet hole on the right, (spin side).  Turn the 5 minute spin dial to 5 minutes and hold the washer steady, (with your hands), until it gets to smoothly spinning the clothes, (for about 1 minute).  Make sure that the drain hose is over in the tub.  Then turn the water on, (on the spin side).  At about 1 minute before the clothes are done spinning, shut the water off and let them dry spin.  Then stick them into your portable dryer, (see picture # 3).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3928, "id": 367210, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 517, "len_tokens": 616, "text": "Very nice little machines.  Makes the \"wet\" ice like you'd find at a restaurant, so the ice is very soft and chewable which I love.  Many other reviews complain about the ice being wet, but this is not the same ice as what you fridge ice maker produces so it's not comparable.  The cycle type is exactly as the description states, a little long on the first batch, then it gets faster.  It will fill it's internal bin in about 2 hours or less.  Two sizes of ice, but there's not much difference between the two.  Great for a non-wet bar, or for using outside the home on a trip or something like that.  The water is kept below the ice bin, so it's very well self contained.  Ice is made on little fingers that hang down from the top.  The fingers get really cold as they are sitting in a small water container, and when it cycles the water tray dumps out of the way and the fingers do a quick warm up to let the ice drop off them, then the ice is scooped into the ice bin and the water tray moves back and is filled for another cycle.  And, keep in mind the ice bin is not cooled.  This is not a freezer unit and has no cold keeping area.  But the ice will keep for at least 12 hours in my tests (only had the unit a few days so far, running almost constantly.)  Basically overnight, and it will still have ice in the bin the next morning with very little melted.  But don't expect it to keep the ice forever, except if you just keep it running once the ice melts enough below, and allows the level to drop you'll get more ice made fresh to fill it up completely again.\n\nThe negatives are, it's a little noisy.  Not too bad, you can talk comfortably around it, even whisper and be heard just fine.  Kind of funny the air fan is so loud since Rosewill makes fans for computers that are extremely quiet, and this one is not.  The compressor makes noise too, but not too bad.  There is no place to store the power cord when not in use.  And, emptying the water is difficult as you have to turn the whole unit upside down to get the water out, it's not that small and kind of awkward to twist around to dump the water.  The ice bin has holes in it to allow ice melt water to drain back into the water reservoir, and on the smaller ice size the ice can drop through those holes.  Kind of strange they didn't think of that in its design.  Plus the lid is a bit odd to open, only has little wings on the side to grab and no indentions to make it easier.  Would be nice to have similar on the front of the lid.  Enough negatives that I took away one star, and hope Rosewill does a little better in it's next design of this nice little ice maker.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3929, "id": 367480, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 491, "len_tokens": 627, "text": "When our 28-year-old Litton Generation II finally went belly-up, I researched over-the-range microwaves on Consumer Reports. This model was not only inexpensive, but got an extremely high rating (2nd only to the GE Profile). Although Amazon sells it for $266, we found it at HHGregg for $180, so bought it from them.\n\nThe Pros: Extremely quiet/hardly know it's running. Non-stick interior; we immediately noticed that 'splatters' are not \"stuck\" to the walls. Express controls: You can hit '1' and the microwave automatically starts and runs for 1 minute. Can do the same for 1-6 minutes. \"Add 30 sec\" control that adds 1/2 minute to what you're doing. . . or just runs the oven for 30 sec.\n\nThe Cons: Minor - the door window is so heavily covered with white dots that it's all but impossible to observe what's happening to what you're microwaving (e.g., melting cheese in Tostito Scoops). It is also only 1000 watts, not 1200. It would have made the microwave even more convenient if they added a \"Add 15 sec\" control; many things only take that long.\n\nMAJOR CON: The installation process caused me to knock one star off the rating: Instructions for the back plate that supports the bottom of the oven indicate that you should install the top of the plate RIGHT AGAINST the bottom of the cabinet. However, the back plate is NOT...repeat NOT quite as deep as the oven, by a scant 1/8\". IOW, if you put the top of the back plate against the bottom of the cabinet, the back of the microwave cannot fit under the back of the cabinet. The end result is that you have a microwave that is not vertically plumb (leans out, so if you open the door and let go of it, it swings wide open by itself). This design flaw resulted in my having to completely uninstall the oven, REINSTALL THE BACK PLATE 1/8\" LOWER, and reinstall the oven -- a major pain in the ***.\n\nIMO, this is a major flaw in the design of the back plate vs. the microwave, and I will be bringing this to GE's attention. I just hope this review helps others who buy it and do self-installs.\n\nUpdate 6/20/14: I should have added that the mismatch between the height of the oven and the shorter back plate may NOT have been a design flaw, but a MANUFACTURING error. IOW, I just happened to get a back plate that was shorter than it should have been. In any case, I urge new buyers to slide the plate onto the back of the oven to see if it's exactly the same height when the tines at the bottom are fully inside the slots at the bottom of the oven. If the oven is slightly higher than the top of the back plate, you must install the back plate that distance down from the bottom of the cabinet.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3930, "id": 371996, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 580, "len_tokens": 679, "text": "The box was delivered by FedEx on the very edge of my front porch, without them knocking - but I got it inside. The washer is ENORMOUS. I'd measured carefully and was still shocked by how large it was. Everyone who has seen it has commented on the size - it's actually larger than our very large, old microwave. It is also extremely heavy. The package comes marked as being a two-person lift, and for good reason. But I did manage to get it onto the counter alone - barely. The problem isn't just the weight, it's also the bulk. At 5'0\" I could barely fit my arms around it far enough to get a grip on it. Someone who is frail, elderly, disabled or has any history of back issues definitely needs to arrange for help, even to unbox it.\n\nSet up is easy, just connect the two hoses to the rear of the machine and attach the locking nozzle onto the sink fixture. The hoses don't require any tools to attach, and I was able to connect the nozzle onto the sink without needing any, either. Everything fit properly right away, with no leaks. Even though the instructions imply that powdered detergent is preferred, I used Cascade Complete liquid in the washer because it worked well with my previous washer and it cleaned the dishes beautifully without additional rinse aid. The machine is quieter than the full-size dishwashers we have owned. Even with the huge size of the outside, the interior is rather small - largish coffee mugs have to be put on the floor of the basket, rather than in the designated mug area, which is sized for very small cups such as old-fashioned teacups. I suspect that was not the best design choice. However, it doesn't take that much effort to just wash an additional load of mugs, so it's not a problem, really.\n\nOne feature I appreciate is that the wash water is filtered and reused repeatedly during the wash, so the machine is only drawing a minimum of water from the tap. This is important in our house, where the amount of hot water is limited, as it allows someone to have hot water to shower even when the machine is running.  And it may sound odd, but I LOVE the buttons on this thing. Many of the models I had researched had the little plastic covered bubbles rather than actual buttons, and I hate those because the bubble's plastic invariably wears away with use and one is left with pushing bare plastic. This machine has actual buttons which are very solid and responsive, and I don't expect any issues from them.\n\nThere is one thing that is odd. The machine's running times as shown on the readout are accurate, but they are much, much longer than the running times listed in the manual. According to the manual, for example, a load on normal wash should take 110 minutes of running time. However, when the cycle is actually selected, the machine reports that it will require 150 minutes to complete. This isn't a big deal for me, but it does make it a bit difficult when trying to time starting a load before bedtime, for example.\n\nOverall, I'm very happy with my purchase so far. If my opinion changes, I will update this review to reflect the new information, but at this point the machine is so solid I don't expect any problems whatsoever.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3931, "id": 374266, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 484, "len_tokens": 620, "text": "Okay, as nobody has reviewed this I will go ahead and review even though I've only had it a short time.  Bought this, from the competition wally for just 180 (went down to 160 and they gave me the difference back) and will write a review there also, with the same two pics.  I'm showing you the great--how SURPRISINGLY ROOMY IT IS, and the bad, that the coils frost SO VERY VERY QUICKLY without even opening the thing a normal amount of use.\n\nThis is a back up freezer bought for grown son who eats a lot of frozen dishes.  I told him, WHEN his refrigerator freezer is almost empty, to come get everything out of this one in ONE TRIP, as it is cheaply made and shouldn't be opened frequently. (I'm actually afraid it won't stand up JUST BECAUSE it is small and mini fridges never last long,  so we plan to treat it with kid-gloves.)\n\nAS YOU CAN SEE FROM PICS, frosted coils without using a normal amount of time.  Maybe simply because of the \"start up\" aspect, empty freezer first time cooling down?  I dunno, that is why I'll keep you updated. (and why I've saved the box and won't throw it out till 90 days passes-the return period)  If all goes well you will see an update in about six months, if not, you will see an update sooner.\n\nOnly gave it 3 starts because that is AVERAGE and with the frosting issue and not knowing if it WILL stand up to time, how can I possibly rate it better?  If it holds up a year and the frosting issue doesn't get worse, I'll upgrade the stars.\n\nOH<--it makes lots of funky noises, which is no big deal to me, but funny to see people's faces when they are in the kitchen and hear it and don't know what it is.  If you have a dog, you might think he is whining when it is actually the freezer.  Definitely not a freezer for a bedroom, lol.  Not sure if pics took or not, don't see a preview image there, we'll see.  Finally got the pics to upload.  Have had it for about a month now.\n\nUPDATE:  Still working.  Thought it died on me when I allowed it to build up too much ice (and that happens really easily as we seldom open it and you'd think that would discourage ice build up.) But it got hot and started thawing everything.  I emptied it, defrosted, and working great again.\n\nUPDATE: FEB 2017  Freezer is still working.  We rarely open it, other than to check that all is well--we switched to using this to store bell peppers grown in my garden, etc.  I don't think it is frosting up as quickly and I raised my star value to FOUR stars as it is still working and the frost issue isn't worse, anyway.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3932, "id": 378053, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 265, "len_tokens": 601, "text": "Perfect for unprotected circuits. My home is protected, my shop is not. Now I have protection for our shop fridge, and will get more to protect other equipment we have at the shop. Great for people that rent properties and don't want to spend money for electricians to install GFIC outlets. Also perfect for generator panels to provide protection. Will also work well for portable air conditioning units. Here in S.W. Florida it seems as if we have lightning strikes everyday. Be prepared where you live too. Below are two tables showing upcoming power plant outages. When the switches are changed you could receive \"Dirty Power\". Protect your appliances today.\n\nNuclear Outage Schedule\nLocation OutageTypes Region Start Date End Date\nSt. Lucie Maintenance Southeast 9/6/2015 10/6/2015\nPlant Vogtle Maintenance Southeast 9/11/2015 10/12/2015\nPoint Beach Maintenance Midwest 9/17/2015 10/22/2015\nWatts Bar Maintenance Southeast 9/24/2015 10/29/2015\nBeaver Valley Maintenance Northeast 9/26/2015 10/26/2015\nSeabrook Maintenance Northeast 10/1/2015 10/27/2015\nSouth Texas Project Maintenance Southeast 10/3/2015 10/27/2015\nMillstone Refuel/Maintenance Northeast 10/4/2015 10/31/2015\nSurry Maintenance Southeast 10/11/2015 11/8/2015\nSalem/Hope Creek Maintenance Northeast 10/12/2015 11/9/2015\nTurkey Point Maintenance Southeast 10/19/2015 11/19/2015\nSequoyah Nuclear Plant Maintenance Southeast 11/14/2015 12/19/2015\n\nFossil Outage Schedule\nLocation OutageTypes Region Start Date End Date\nPort Washington Maintenance Midwest 9/6/2015 10/18/2015\nPresque Isle Maintenance Midwest 9/6/2015 12/12/2015\nHutchinson Maintenance Midwest 9/12/2015 10/31/2015\nLawrence Maintenance Midwest 9/12/2015 10/3/2015\nElm Road Maintenance Midwest 9/13/2015 10/24/2015\nMilwaukee County Maintenance Midwest 9/13/2015 11/21/2015\nTecumseh Maintenance Eastern Kansas 9/26/2015 11/21/2015\nSan Juan Maintenance Southwest 10/3/2015 11/15/2015\nOak Creek Maintenance Midwest 10/11/2015 12/12/2015\n\nDisclaimer: this item was purchased at a discounted price for reviewing purposes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3933, "id": 379594, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 442, "len_tokens": 625, "text": "I hate washing dishes.  Of all the household chores, I hate this one most of all.  Toilet, floor, rugs, windows.... fine.  Dishes: Hate them!  Part of this has to do with their relentlessness--- no matter how many you wash in a day, the next day there will be just as many.  It's a Sisyphean (and thankless) task that sucks my will to live!\n\nI needed a solution, and thought I had found it in the Koldfront portable dishwasher.\n\nWrong!\n\nIt doesn't work.  And customer support was totally unhelpful.\n\nLet me explain.\n\nThe dishwasher is larger than it seems in the picture, and didn't quite fit on my countertop.  This is my bad, since I should have looked at the specs before ordering.  This was a minor annoyance that I got around by buying a small cart for it.  It fit nicely on the cart, and could be wheeled to the sink when it was time to wash dishes.... which I tried to do for the first time yesterday.\n\nThe instructions were pretty simple and very clear: screw the quick connect hose on to your kitchen sink spigot, turn the hot water on, add soap, and turn it on.  However, when I attempted to attach the hose on to my spigot, it DID NOT FIT!  It was TOO BIG for the spigot.. the spigot was too small.\n\nOK, so before freaking out, I called the help line at the company.\n\nI explained to the man on the phone--- a very articulate, youngish-sounding, native-English-speaking man-- the problem I was having.\n\nHis response was, matter of factly: \"Oh, yes, sometimes the hose doesn't fit the spigot.\"  Like, \"end of story, OK?  Can I help you with anything else?\"\n\nMy response was: \"So.... is there anything I can do about this?\"\n\n\"Sometimes the hose doesn't fit the spigot.  We tried our best to select the most common size, but sometimes it doesn't fit.  I've never heard of a spigot being too small.  Hm.  How interesting.\"\n\n\"But... is there a workaround or something?  An adaptor I can buy?\"\n\n\"No.\"\n\n(silence)\n\n\"So that's it then? There is nothing I can do?\"\n\n\"You can buy a new spigot for the sink.\"\n\n\"I can't do that.  I live in an apartment....\"\n\n(silence)\n\n\"So, besides that, I should just send it back, then?\"\n\n\"Sometimes the hose doesn't fit the spigot.  You have the option of sending it back.\"\n\n\"Uhh... OK.  Thanks for the information.\"\n\n\"You're welcome.\"\n\n*click*\n\nNo enthusiasm.  No way to try to work with me on this.  Very \"take it or leave it.\"\n\nGuess what?\n\nI'm gonna leave it.\n\nThanks for nothing, Koldfront!!!!!\n\nSheesh.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3934, "id": 381352, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 469, "len_tokens": 667, "text": "Works fine. I can check the humidity in the guitar case to make sure it's where I want it to be. Or in a room. These small instruments are not calibrated, so you have to check their accuracy. One way I know of is to use another hygrometer you trust and compare the results.\n\nSince your guitar case may not be humidified enough, the hygrometer lets you check the environment of the case before you put in your guitar and humidity device. No use putting the instrument in a dry case and try to keep it at 40% humidity. The water in the humidity pack will simply equilibrate with the dry environment of the case and you will dry out your humidity pack while not getting moisture in the air around the guitar. So first, use the hygrometer to check the case's moisture, then humidify your case if you need to.\n\nUnfortunately, small measurement devices are prone to being uncalibrated. So you have to calibrate it to see how far off it is. You can do with with the salt test and then make a note on your reading versus reality: this little unit is not able to be adjusted.\n\nA salt test is an easy test that basically puts your hygrometer into an isolated 75% RH (relative humidity) environment, in which you can then determine how inaccurate the reading is and adjust accordingly.\n\nHow to do the salt test:\n You will need:\nSandwich sized ziploc bag\n Bottle cap from 2 liter soda bottle\n Table salt  (do not use fancy grey salt: plain white salt)\n Your hygrometer\n\nSTEP 1:\nFill cap 3/4 of the way up with  table salt\n\nSTEP 2:\n\nAdd filtered or distilled water (not tap) to the bottle cap and  saturate the salt. Make a slurry (slushy mix) No water should be floating on top of the salt slurry.\n\nSTEP 3:\n\nPlace the hygrometer and cap with salt/water mixture  inside of the ziploc bag.\n\nSTEP 4:\nLet cap and hygrometer sit in closed bag for 6 hours. It should read 75% after this time.\n\nIf your hygrometer reads 80%, subtract five points from any reading. If it reads 70%, add five points.\n\nIf you want to be fancy, you can buy a test kit:&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Boveda-One-Step-Hygrometer-Calibration-Kit-75-RH-Standard-Small/dp/B000A3UBLA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Boveda One-Step Hygrometer Calibration Kit - 75% RH - Standard Small</a>&nbsp;The advantage of this is you can do a 32% test, because the inaccuracy of the hygrometer may not be linear and if you are reading for near 40%, it may be better to test at the lower portion of the scale.\n\nI keep the hygrometer, which is no bigger than several sticks of gum, in the small compartment in the case--under the neck. It's there to make sure the case is always at the right level of humidification.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3935, "id": 382089, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 483, "len_tokens": 622, "text": "I bought this locally four months ago after getting fed up with constantly cleaning kid's fingerprints off my stainless steel fridge, and I've been very happy with it ever since. The black stainless isn't entirely fingerprint free, but it's close enough. Every now and then I see some smears, fingerprints, or water marks near the ice maker but it's easy to wipe clean with a damp microfiber cloth, and it doesn't ever need to be polished so it's a lot easier to maintain than my old fridge was.\n\nI love being able to have the milk and most commonly used condiments in the door in door. It's easy to access and it latches securely when closed. The alarm features on this fridge are great too. Now I don't have to follow after the kids to make sure they closed the door properly because the fridge will let them know if they didn't.\n\nThe flex drawer is a wonderful feature as well. It has it's own temperature controls and I find it just perfect for storing lunch meats, cheese, and snacks for the kids to reach. The freezer offers a lot of storage space and it has a pull out drawer on the upper part just like my GE Profile did, so I use that section to store frozen vegetables and use the two large bins below for meats on one side and frozen pasta, deserts, or other items on the other.\n\nThere are a few features of this fridge that are less than optimal however. For example, the door in door bins aren't adjustable, so what you see is what you get. The storage cubicles on the side that has the ice maker are very narrow so you can't fit much into them, and the fridge doesn't have enough room for tall items, so if you have more gallons of milk, juice, or wine than will fit into the door in door bin you'll need to lay them down on a shelf to make them fit.  Despite those minor inconveniences I'm very happy with this refrigerator and I wouldn't want to go back to regular stainless steel again for anything!\n\nUpdate 8/7/2016: An alarm on the unit's front control panel let me know it was time to change the water filter. In case you wondered, it takes the&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Samsung-Da29-00020b-Refrigerator-Water-Filter/dp/B003N1ZSYG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Samsung Da29-00020b Refrigerator Water Filter</a>.  You'll need to shut off the water line before changing it, which means you either have to pull out the heavy fridge to do it, or shut off the main supply line for the entire house for a moment (which is what I wound up doing). After removing & replacing the filter be sure to run several glasses of water through the fridge to flush the new filter as well as remove air from the lines, and then you'll be all set for another 6 months.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3936, "id": 382152, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 508, "len_tokens": 623, "text": "I bought the product before Thanksgiving. This review has 2 parts: Installation and product performance. Installation gets 1 star. Performance so far gets 4 stars.\nThe product was clearly designed with no thought or consideration about ease of installation. Here's why:\n1- The product is supposed to be hanging from 4 screws from under the cabinet. The screws need to be drilled with perfect precision, otherwise when you are lifting the hood to install it in place it won't go it. Remember you have no visibility at that point. What does Zephyr do to help you with this? Just a diagram of distance measurements.\nWhat could they do to improve this experience? Supply a template sheet with drill holes marked so you can tape it under the cabinet, drill the holes, and be done. By the way that would also help ensure you have enough space under the cabinet without any lips or sides intruding.\nCost for that improvement? $0.05?\n2- Once the hood is hanging from the screws, you need to tighten them (as the manual suggests). You need to do this laying on your back on the stove. But even then the front screws are impossible to reach though. Why? The only way you can reach them is at a 45 degree angle from front. Now imagine tightening a screw at 45 degrees. You will damage the screw head, and then you are stuck half way. The best way to avoid this is to take the hood down. Redrill the front holes at 45 degrees, and reinstall it that way. Does the manual specify that? No!\nWhat could they to improve this? Clearly state the need to drill the front holes at 45 degrees.\nCost for that improvement? $0.00.\n3- The power cable that comes with the unit has no plug, and is just about 4\" long. What is the rationale for not having a plug and such a short length of cord? I don't know, but I can say that by the time you take the cord through the cabinet, you have little room for error when you are attaching a plug. I could bet that 90%+ of customers have an outlet within 3' of the unit. If you offer a 3' cord with a plug, and some minority of customers needs to change the cord, well they can cut it, and change it. Now everyone has to go through that.\nCost for that improvement? $1.00 max?\n4- Finally is there a way this experience could've been world-class at low cost? Yes. They could change the installation process using simple system similar where four 1\" mini-rails that you install under the cabinet, and then simply slide the hood into place. That way the unit is firmly attached vertically. To prevent horizontal play the unit can be attached to the rails with 4 short fat screws.\nCost for this improvement? The 4 mini rails, the corresponding rail-catcher on the top of the unit, and any delta in sheet-metal stamping. All would be less than $5.00", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3937, "id": 383278, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 529, "len_tokens": 613, "text": "The machine is wonderful!!!! It comes with very clear instructions. Its light enough I can move it all over. My downstairs neighbor didn't hear any sound when I used it.\n\n I cant wring out my cloths, due to arthritis. This is the solution. Fabrics are dry enough to air dry. Theres no way to dry outdoors where I live, so this is the next best solution. No more trips to our complexs foul laundry room. I wash in a container, with a plunger, and spin with this. I have the laundry solution Ive been looking for.\n\nIt spins out wash water so well that rinsing takes about a quarter the time and water it used to. No sore hands. No dripping clothes! My ceiling fan is enough to dry sports bras in about 2 hours.\n\nI spun a heavy bath sheet with other items in the load and it was dryer than any washer spin Ive used. Really quiet after the spin is up to speed. Much quieter than a washer spin, and more effective. The drain could be a bit easier to deal with. Its on the front of the machine. You have to put a container under it and empty it after each load. It looks like you can hook a hose underneath it, but youd need a floor drain to use it. I cant use the bottom dra.in in the bath tub because instructions say it must be on a flat surface. Theres no mention of attaching a hose in the instructions, however.\n\nUPDATE: Ive used this for over a year. Here are a few tips.\nREAD THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY before you plug it in. Everything you need to know is there. My first one was damaged in shipping and they immediately replaced it with no questions asked. Hold onto the box until youve tried a few loads to make sure little chunks of plastic do come out in the water.\n\nUse super absorbent towels/Sham Wow under the drains to keep your floor safe and dry. You can afford them with all the laundromat money you're saving! Find the right size container to put under the drain. There will be a lot more water than you expect!\nTake the time to make sure the load is balanced. If its not it will beat against the sides of the machine and cause internal damage after too many nasty loads. Do it right and the loads end updryer and don't damage the machine.\nWash and rinse in separate containers. Spin your soapy clothes before you rinse. Wash more with an air plunger while the load spins. You can wash and spin a lot of clothes and linens in a day if you get a smooth system going. Wash the cleanest clothes first so you can let the nasty stuff soak while the others are drying on the rack if you have a large laundry day.\nMake sure you have the plastic piece on top of your load before you spin. Press it down so the load settles into the drum before you spin.\nI like my spin dryer better now than I did when I first bought it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3938, "id": 383428, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 502, "len_tokens": 606, "text": "Well, I was skeptical. But I couldn't fit a tumble dryer in my small apartment. So I went with this. It's pretty easy to assemble and quick to take down. At first, after 40 minutes, I checked my clothes and they weren't dry at all. I had thick socks and some cotton business casual style work shirts in there to dry and a pair of work slacks. But I decided to be patient. So I put it on for another hour and checked it and the clothes were dry! Really dry. Not damp at all. The socks were still kinda damp though, so I had to leave it on for another hour. Then everything was dry. This thing is great! Even though I used some fabric softener, my socks were a little stiff from the hard water here in California in my area ( Glendale). But I couldn't be happier with it. And it's sort of a fun, big puffy light bulb/air balloon thing in the middle of my room. It does put off some heat, of course. And I was careful never to leave it unattended. Make sure that the bottom of the clear plastic housing is laying flat around the base where the heat comes out. Air comes out of the holes at the top for ventilation. I really like it. I got a special hangar( a 26 clip hangar) for my socks and bra's and things. They go great together. One small let down though was that it said that you didn't need a special plug for this unit. It actually said in the description that is was a 2 prong plug. It was one of the main reasons that I bought this particular brand and unit. There are many like it that are cheaper out there. They usually have a blue cover instead of the see thru one. Anyway, it wasn't truthful. It is a 3 prong plug. It makes sense now that I have it. It's a heating element, so of course it needs to be grounded. I just can't figure out why they said that it was a 2 prong plug when it isn't? I'm going to give it 5 stars anyway because it certainly kicked *ss, but just be aware that you're going to need a 3 prong outlet or something to use it. I like the fact that I can look at my clothes and keep an eye on them. It's a heating thing so it could possible catch fire, ( although it's well made and doesn't seem dangerous), I guess I'm just paranoid and like seeing what's going on inside there. Overall, it gets the job done. I'd recommend it if you're done with the laundry mat. I am. I've been wasting money and time dragging clothes and heavy baskets up and down the stair cases and in and out of vehicles for too long. This is much better. I have the Magic Chef 1.6 washer and that thing is a dream. All set!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3939, "id": 383550, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 572, "len_tokens": 664, "text": "I had never seen anything like this until I was offered it in exchange for trying it out and reviewing its performance and quality. I jumped at the chance because I have the worst drier in the world. It is provided by my apartment complex, and it takes 6 hours to drive 5 items. It's really terrible, but they won't replace or fix it.\n\nThis was easy to assemble, and it required no tools. Once assembled it is quite sturdy. Because it requires no tools, it is quickly disassembled for storage when you're not using it.\n\nIts pretty simple to use. You just put it together, hang your clothes up in it, and then put the clear plastic cover on it and zip it shut. Then just adjust the timing button. That's it. Once you turn it on the plastic chamber will quickly fill up with warm air. There are ventilation holes on the top of it that allow the dampness to escape while your clothes are drying.\n\nIt dried the clothes I put in it in about a fourth of the time that my regular clothes dryer would have. Because I was testing it and wanting to see its abilities, I put in the heaviest clothes I could. A very thick cotton hoodie, some jeans, sweaters. Things like that.\n\nThis works very well. It is excellent for someone who doesn't have a dryer in their home or apartment. Because it folds down so small, this would also be excellent to take on a trip where you will be having an extended stay. It easily sets up in a corner, or in the bathroom of your hotel room.\n\nI'm using this to supplement my no good dryer. When I need something dried faster I will use this. It's also good for delicate things that you don't want bouncing around in the dryer.\n\nThe only cons I came across with this are the metal prongs used to hang a second level of clothing. The hanging bars at the top of the unit did a fantastic job of holding up even the heaviest items, but the metal prongs are not capable of holding anything. Anything I hung on them slid right off the end and onto the floor. The metal on them is too weak and it just bends until they slide off. In my case, this doesn't bother me because the stuff I'm hanging is long enough that I can't use that second layer anyways. So when I assemble it I won't even bother to install the little metal prongs. In my case this works perfectly. Someone else who was wanting to use those would be unhappy though. I suppose you could hang very lightweight things like a pair of socks over them, hosiery, bras, panties, things like that and they would be able to handle it.\n\nI'm happy with my portable dryer. It does a great job I'm drying clothes in a lot less time than my regular dryer. Understand that you're not going to be able to dry as many clothes at a time in this as you would in a full size dryer. That said, it still holds quite a bit. For the price of this is selling for right now, this is a very good deal. If you travel a lot, or just don't have a dryer and don't want to go to the laundrymat, then this is ideal.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3940, "id": 386879, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 558, "len_tokens": 652, "text": "Searched the Internet for leaking Whirlpool refrigerator (model GI5fvaxyy00) that also has ice build up under bottom mounted freezer and found a wealth of information on YouTube and here on Amazon so thank you to everyone that posted valuable information.  The following document lists the model numbers of refrigerators that potentially have or will have these [...], If Amazon removes the link then do a search for Technical Service Pointer W10632338A drain tube. You should find a document that lists the 1500 models, from various manufacturers, affected by the use of a duck bill check valve which plugs up and sticks closed.\n\nIf your model is indicated then contact your manufacturer. I have a whirlpool and sent an email through their customer service website, their response was for me to call their number during business hours so they could assist. Called number which has many options and after three transfers I got the Customer Care Team in Michigan, direct number 800-253-1301.\n\nSpoke with a representative, Ricky, and informed him of the issue along with mentioning the Technical Service Pointer W10632338A (TSP-338A), linked above removed by Amazon. Ricky informed me that I had two options, a service tech could be sent or whirlpool could send me the part free of charge and I could install myself. Watching the YouTube videos this repair should be an easy project for the DIYer. I choose to have the part delivered for self installation as my refrigerator was bought back in 2011 and would not be covered under warranty thus a service technician would cost me money.\n\nIn my case whirlpool did the right thing and provided the part free of charge and without any fuss. Ensure you model number is on TSP 338A and don't take no for an answer and try different departments if necessary. Remember getting to the right department can mean the difference between yes and no, it took me three transfers to navigate the confusing maze of people and departments.\n\nAgain, thank you everyone for your posts.  The repair part is not that costly but it is the principal that companies should stand behind their products and fix design defects or make the process as easy as possible for their customers.\n\nThe drain tube has been installed for a little over two months and no more water on floor or ice build up under bottom freezer.  Installation hint, place a dry cloth/ rag under the drain after removal of old duck bill check valve then open freezer and lay hair dryer, in the pull out top rack, pointed toward the open fins in the back of the freezer. Once the rag is wet and a Qtip can be inserted fully up through the drain then it is likely unfrozen and ready to install the new parts. I would not suggest forcefully trying to break out the ice through the drain with screw driver, let it melt with help of a hair dryer, be patient it may take 15-25 minutes with assistance to melt, but do it right the first time so you don't have to go through all the trouble twice. Don't try to defrost with a hair dryer from the rear of the refrigerator where the new drain tube will be installed as it is insulated in the back so defrost from inside the freezer compartment itself.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3941, "id": 388021, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 472, "len_tokens": 632, "text": "Pros:\n- arrived quickly via Prime! (my review is not verified since my husband purchased it and I'm doing the review)\n- good suction - rated at 600 cfm. you can def feel the suction when you plug it in right out the box\n- comes with a plug\n- baffle filters that are easy to remove\n- LED lights are bright\n- buttons light up with blue when pressed - looks great\n- packaged well - no scratches where it counts (front, sides, top, bottom)\n- just overall looks great with its curved edges, and it is the slimmest compared to other similar strength hoods at 5 inches in depth\n\nCons:\n- comes with SHORT screws (3/8 or 1/2 inch??) for attaching to undercabinet. This totally didn't work for us since the edges of the cabinet are longer than the bottoms of the cabinet. 3/8 inch screw wouldn't even reach through the wood. Our installer purchased longer screws.\n- it is a bit noisy the higher the fan setting, but I think that keeping it on the lowest setting would be more than enough for most cooking. The highest setting would prob be best and needed for frying or super smoky/wok cooking. for the strength of the vent I would say its reasonable.\n- technically length is 29.5'' and there is a quarter inch open area on either side when installed. Still looks great to me! (see photo)\n- general con for all hoods: why does it cost so much to install this thing that literally does not require any electrical work?? I was quoted anywhere from 130 to 250+ just to install this!\n\nMy shopping comparisons:\n- Sears marketplace - same Proline product is $20 more expensive\n- Whirlpool UXT5530AAS - 400 CFM but uses grease filters\n- Windster WS-38U30SS - 620 CFM, looks great, has an auto sensor LED night light system?? my contractor recommended this brand based on reliability/looks, but its $100 more\n- Windster WS-5830SS - similar product to above but has grease filters. At about the same price, I would rather get the proline that has baffle filters\n- AKDY 1802 - 500 CFM. cheapest at ~$200 (direct thru AKDY thru Houzz/Wayfair/Walmart) but I saw some reviewers pictures which showed the baffle filters were not really stainless steel and rusted\n- Perfetto Kitchen and Bath 30\" - 500 cfm, buttons hidden underside and sharp edges - not great in a small kitchen if someone walks into it esp since it hangs lower at a 10 in depth\n- BV Stainless Steel 30\" - 800 cfm, similar price. I just didn't like that the brand is etched in. kinda ugly\n- Tatsumaki 30\" TA-S18 - 860 cfm, lower price. I didn't like the look of the front digital display.\n\nI'll review again after it's been used awhile!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3942, "id": 394623, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 495, "len_tokens": 644, "text": "I bought my first washer-dryer pair in 1977 as a kid in college--a GE set in avocado, no less  Great set.  Over the next 20 years, in various homes, I had 3 GE sets.  These were the excellent Filter-Flo machines first introduced in 1957, refined and improved over the years.  Then, in 2000, I discovered that GE had brought out a newer line with cheapened controls and flimsy construction.  From 2000 to 2017 I owned 2 front loaders.  While they washed well and efficiently, they both eventually blew that front bearing that costs well over $500 to repair.  Also--I live alone and don't generate but about 2-3 loads weekly at most.\n\nWhen this last front loader just blew its bearing I decided to look around and was quite disappointed in what I saw.  Mostly front loaders from Korea at the big-box stores, with lots of electronic toys on them (even wi-fi!) but no real improvements in durability.  Fortunately, my city still has a traditional appliance dealer and he carries Speed Queen.  After looking at their front loaders I decided to go back to the traditional top loader for durability and simplicity.  Actually, the electronic control panel model of this same washer was only $20 more and with a longer warranty, but I decided to stick with this.  My last front loader gave me hell for a few years with electronic control glitches.  It was under maintenance but that doesn't wash the clothes!\n\nI'm quite pleased with this machine.  In order to satisfy the government, it does have a normal-ECO cycle on it that limits the water and the hot water temp.  Fortunately, there is also a 'normal' cycle that gives traditional deep-water wash and rinse, and hot at the temp I choose.  It is not loud, but definitely not completely silent as my front-loaders were.  I like the idea of energy and water savings, but I use so little extra I don't feel bad about it.  I'm really loving the fact that I can open the lid and add items while it washes; I used to be really bad about wanting to add something on the front loaders and I couldn't.  I will say that I find the clothes marginally wetter at the end of the wash because the spin speed is slower than my front loaders, but not disturbingly so.\n\nI learned that this, the last 'knob' machine by Speed Queen, is being discontinued at the end of 2017.  Why?  Well, our government is once again meddling with our washers.  Apparently, according to SQ, it wasn't possible to satisfy them with a mechanical timer.  Of course, the same excellent machine will be offered with their electronic board--and it's commercial grade--but obviously there will be changes, not necessarily for the better.  Those of us with newer dishwashers know how the government regulations have messed them up.\n\nI'd recommend this machine highly, but if you want complete control over your washing, you'd better buy before 2018.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3943, "id": 394643, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 539, "len_tokens": 628, "text": "Please note this review is regarding model #AWNE82SP113TW. I was unable to  find this exact model on Amazon, and thus am posting my thoughts here.\n\nHaving battled mold nearly constantly in an HE front loader, I opted to purchase a Speed Queen. The long warranty, reputed durability, and top loading feature (i.e. hopefully no mold) sold me on it.  However, I was a little put off by the occasional review describing some kind of industrial grease that came in the basins of new units and required a lot of work to remove. It seemed hard to believe that in this day an age a reputable company could ship off a washer with industrial chemicals inside.\n\nAfter purchase and having momentarily forgotten said reviews, I ran a couple of loads. Afterwards, a firm swipe along the drum revealed a helping of some kind of grease, just as the other purchasers had described! It wasn't visible to the naked eye just by looking at the drum, but would be visible on any towel or paper towel after wiping an area. The grease like compound was in all areas of the washer: the bottom, in between the small holes, at the top rim, etc.  After an hour of heavy scrubbing, going through three old towels, and running three empty loads with Tide washing machine cleaner, I finally was able to remove enough of it to feel comfortable in washing my clothes.\n\nA call placed to the manufacturer was met only with a feeble \"I'm sorry,\" and no offer to make things right or compensate me for the inconvenience. It was explained the sheets of metal used to make the drums of the washers are lined with grease in shipping to protect them, and that the simply forgot to remove them. Ooops. Really? What if the purchaser were and elderly woman, who didn't have the ability to clean it? OR someone who didn't think about testing it for gunk, because who would anticipate a load of grease in their new washing machine? Could that grease permeate the clothes or clog the plumbing?\n\nIf you're thinking of purchasing this model, I recommend you call the place of purchase or the manufacturer and ask to get it in writing that the machines will contain no grease in the drum, and in the event it does, that a specific discount or compensation will be applied retroactively, or they will immediately replace it at their cost.\n\nAs far as performance goes, the washing machine I purchased has only three load sizes, small has a very low water level, while medium and large are almost the same volume of water and fill up close to the top.  The machine is hard on clothes and any kind of delicates I wash on delicate mode and inside a special washing bag used to protect lingerie and other such garments. For some reason on Normal mode (Called normal/eco) there is no hot water even when selecting hot water. There is no hot water in the rinse portion of any mode: rinses are cold only. I use permanent press for the remainder of my clothes.\n\nAt least there is no mold, and after a good deal of effort, no grease either.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3944, "id": 394675, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 563, "len_tokens": 660, "text": "We run a busy day spa and in the last two years had gone through 2 front loading Maytag HE commercial washers- in our case time is absolutely equal to money, and having these machines be down for a few days to a week at a time is a huge issue, so after the last one crashed and burned on us, with another one almost being dead as well, we decided to replace both of them with a single Speed Queen based on the warranty and reputation in the industry.\n\nThe downside to one of these is that they do indeed consume more water. That said, in talking to our last repair person, they recommended running the HE machines with an extra rinse cycle to help to keep them from getting that musty smell that we inevitably get with the HE machines- we always left them open of course for air circulation, but it never failed that after awhile, the smell would be there. So with the extra rinse, the water consumption advantage of the HE machine is reduced.\n\nSo the pros of the Speed Queen.\nCycles are much, much faster- not sure if it would matter too much for home use, but perhaps if you have a large family it would. We are able to run a couple cycles an hour on this machine, so it keeps up with the demands of our busiest days without a hiccup.\n\nNo smell. Like the washers in the old days, there's no gunk accumulation that starts to create the smell.\n\nRuns big loads with no issues- the anti-vibration setup really does work- the old Maytag advertised a capacity of 4.3, while this one advertises a 3.2 or so- we found with the Maytag that large loads created more issues for the washers, so I'd say we have about the same volume of sheets/towels/etc, without the machine complaining about it.\n\nIt also has all manual switches- I expect better reliability out of them than we had with the Maytags- no error codes, no circuit board failures. It's just a simpler and more well built machine.\n\nNow, it is a little noisier than the Maytags were at times- but not much. So a little ding for that. Also there's no authorized retailer here in town (which is why we ordered it on Amazon) so a bit of a concern if we need to have warranty work done.\n\nI'll also say this- the first machine we got was damaged in shipping- just a couple of dings on the front, so didn't think it was a big deal until we ran it a few times- major leaks, so it had taken a harder whack in shipping than it looked like. Amazon was good about getting a new one out, and we were still able to use the machine while we waited, so not a huge deal there- but they do need better communication with their delivery folks. The exchange delivery when I talked to Amazon was that the delivery company was to also take the old machine away. For some reason they were under the impression that we were somehow going to ship the old machine back separately. Got it cleared up, but they gave my wife a hard time about it and I rather insistently persuaded them to take the old washer, as it's what Amazon agreed to.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3945, "id": 394720, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 518, "len_tokens": 663, "text": "This is my first appliance rating ever, and I had to post on it, so that I might spare other folks the anguish of buying an expensive, overblown product that doesnt live up to its promise.\n\nSpeed Queen lives up to its promise and more. Its flat-out terrific. This washer is a classic throwback, throwback in that its built to be long-lasting. Its made in the USA, its very sturdy and crafted well.  My Speed Queen is a workhorse. It gets the clothes clean  my whites smell so fresh after they come out of the dryer!  and its not a show-off machine with lots of technical gizmo buttons or digital readouts. I don't want pretentious, I prefer bona fide performance and excellence.\n\nWhen we moved into our home, there was a 25-year-old Maytag that I managed to hold onto for another 20 years  a great washer. The appliance serviceman even marveled about the old Maytag: Dont ever get rid of this washer. . . they don't make em like this anymore. Finally, though, the poor washer was so old that it went kaput, and we replaced it with a new name brand machine, (famous American company, not Maytag).  The horrid new machine literally shredded our towels and put holes in our clothes.  After two years of our clothes being put through torture  literally, LOL!  we had to buy a new washer and dryer. We were losing money on our clothes being torn up  it was ridiculous.\n\nDetermined not to buy another lemon appliance, I scoured the Internet for information. I watched HGTV, oooh-ed and ahhhed over the fancy front-loaders. I considered buying one, but our washer and dryer space is tight. We couldn't fit one of the big front-loaders into our laundry space.\n\nAdditionally, I researched consumer websites and scanned the product reviews. One professional reviewer didn't exactly recommend the Speed Queen, then I scrolled to the bottom, to read multiple five-star reviews from actual purchasers. They loved their Speed Queens and disagreed vehemently with the lackluster review. That helped convince me.\n\nThe big box stores usually don't stock Speed Queens. So off we went, my husband and I, to a family-owned appliance store a half hour from our house.  We purchased the AWN432 washer and the ADE3SRG dryer. At the store, and after the machines were installed, I could tell that both appliances were made well  they didn't have that flimsy-parts look about them. They have old-fashioned controls, too, not the electronic one, which made me love them even more. (Ive had to replace two electronic / digital control panels on my other appliances, and Im not enamored with electronic read-outs. When I need a technology fix, I have a laptop and smart phone.)\n\nA heads-up  this is an appliance and doesnt wear a cape. You cant overstuff it and expect miracles. What it does do, when used properly, is really clean clothes.\n\nTrust me, someday when we retire and move elsewhere, that set of Speed Queens is going with us.\n\nIm a heavy-duty Amazon customer and I had to write about this wonderful Speed Queen.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3946, "id": 394738, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 503, "len_tokens": 608, "text": "We purchased this model of Speed Queen washer from a local dealer, as we believe in supporting our local economy, even though it was a couple of hundred dollars higher than we wanted to spend.  We also based our decision on the recommendation of our appliance repair guy, who told us that he rarely worked on Speed Queens, and that when his family needed a new washer, this brand was what he was going to purchase.  After I read excellent reviews on Amazon for this model, I was convinced.\n\nWe have had this washer for just about three months now.  So far, I will tell you that it is doing a good job.  I cannot tell you definitively that it does a better job than my 15 year old Maytag it replaced.  Our clothes are just as clean as with the Maytag. My husband is a little obsessive over our whites, and he is pleased with the brightness he's seen so far in them. It is important for you to know that the Maytag was repaired a few times over the years, which we are hoping that this new Speed Queen will not need to be.  Here are some things I have noticed over the three months with our new washer.\n1.  Noise - Our Speed Queen is much louder than our Maytag.  Our laundry room is right off of our kitchen, in which we spend a lot of time.  When the washer is running, it is a must that we close the laundry room door in order to converse or watch the tv.  To those who have stated that their Speed Queen is so quiet compared to their former washers...wow, your old machines must have really been loud.\n2.  Spin Cycle - I agree with the comments that laundry is spun out very well.  I hang a lot of laundry outside to dry, and between the stiff spring breezes and how dry the items are to begin with, my laundry time is reduced.\n3.  Speed of Cycle - The Name Speed Queen is appropriate, because each load takes about 26-30 minutes to wash from start to finish.  The washer is usually complete before my dryer, but not by a huge amount of time.  Just a few minutes, overall.\n4.  Heavy-duty -  This Speed Queen washer has very little plastic on it.  Literally, the only plastic items visible are the control dials and the agitator.  The parts are not digital, so if something does break, the repair cost should be minimal.  Go to the Speed Queen website and watch their videos on construction and testing.  I was very impressed with the quality of both.\nOverall, I feel good about our purchase.  Our Maytag lasted fifteen years through four kids' worth of laundry per week, including sports uniforms, and a host of everyday use.  Since we are now empty-nesters, I imagine that this Speed Queen may very well be our last washer, since it is rated to last 25 years.  Give it a try.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3947, "id": 394865, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 471, "len_tokens": 608, "text": "Having not been in the market for a washing machine for a few years, had NO idea how drastic the HE shift was, until our Maytag started failing after 5 years.  Def. NOT the Maytag of the past.  Started shopping around, and wow, if you don't want HE, computerized controls, loads of lights, you are really out of luck, at least in most of the box stores.  I'm not going to delve into the whole \"What's wrong with Consumer Reports these days\" argument, but the reviews are out there for the HE washers, and many are not good.  Not sure if the masses really needed HE models, stainless, lights, computers or not, or they were TOLD they needed it.  Either way, just couldn't move into saving the planet with my washing machine choice, if it wasn't going to WASH the clothes (or last).  I read countless reviews where they had to CLEAN the washing machines ???  Just don't know what to say about that, but something just doesn't sound right with that.  Stumbled across the SpeedQueen line, and the reviews were all what I have read here.  Minor complaints, but overall, far superior to front loads, and HE models.  Chose the 432, and it is everything the reviews said it was.  A bit heavier than normal washers, great build quality, a few knobs, extra rinse (on this model), and it is very fast.  Had to get help moving it in due to the weight, and paid CLOSE attention to the instructions stating the (bottom of washer) plug, and (top of washer) insert needed to stay in place until the unit was ready to be used, AND, to add some water to the machine before running it (only on a new unit, never needs to be done again) which primes the pump seal.\n\nClothes are VERY clean, not torn or damaged in any way.  The hot water is just that, HOT water, extra rinse, 710 rpm spins leave the clothes very dry upon completion, and easy to read/use controls.  What else do you need ??  I can't think of it.  Upon setting it up, we started it's first load to test, and moved the old Maytag up, and outside to the curb.  By the time we went back the SQ had already finished.  Beyond impressed.  Now the dilemma is, since the washer is this good, I wonder how much better the DRYER is than the old one we have now.\n\nCan't recommend it enough, and the positive reviews are dead on accurate.  I had asked the salesman about an extended warranty and he asked, \"Why, it's got a 3 year parts and labor from the manufacturer, but if you really want one.....\".  I chose not to.  RUN don't walk to get any one of these 3 top loading models, and pass it on.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3948, "id": 394877, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 526, "len_tokens": 675, "text": "After a power surge zapped my Maytag Atlantis, I spent three years purchasing new washers to replace it.  All of them were hopeless in their performance.  I wanted to wash my clothes, not baptize them.  Then a Speed Queen top loader came into my life and my world changed.\n\nBack to Basics!  Back to the old school when washers were washers and laundry was laundry, and the idea was to get the clothes clean.  This machine is a steady workhorse for the family, not a prancing pony.  The automatic balancing system works great!  It has not gone out of balance since we bought it.  It is quiet (Motor Hush Pack sound insulation), sounds exactly like a washing machine.  It is plain, choosing not to make public appearances on showroom floors.  The Queen only comes in plain white enamel.\n\nThis top load washer fully submerges the clothes in water and has a center agitator with small slender fins. The cycles of most new machines take longer...the Speed Queen only takes about 30 minutes and gets the clothes cleaner.  Seams are not ripped out.  Delicates and knits come through undamaged.  Clothes do not come out twisted and crinkled.  This product was made in the U.S.A. the right way.\n\nNice extra features on the Speed Queen AWN432:\n-Add an extra rinse to any cycle with one switch.\n-Add more water by holding down the Reset knob.\n\nFeatures that are missing and better without:\n\nNO temperature sensor- Hot is truly hot, and warm is warm. No choice on the rinse which is always cold.  There is only one center spout pouring into the stainless steel tub. (The Maytag Atlantis poured boiling hot water on the clothes from the hot spout, then cold water from the cold spout and called it the \"warm\" setting).\n\nNO load level sensor- Choose from among 9 different water levels on a dial.  You can add more water to each level by holding down the Reset knob.  Just be careful not to overflow the tub.\n\nNO annoying beeps at the end of the cycle- This is an advantage because we can now tell when the Whirlpool dryer is finished.  When we had a Whirlpool dryer and a Kenmore Oasis washer,  we couldn't tell which one was sounding off.  Once, to our utter confusion, it was the Breville toaster oven.  Who beeped?  The less beeping, the better.\n\nNO lid lock.  You can add clothes any time.  The movement stops when the lid is up.\n\nNO blinky lights.  It is a WASHER, not a Christmas tree.\n\nDownside:\n\n-Delicate cycle ends in a soak rather than spinning the water out of the tub. I have to advance the dial to drain the water out.\n\n-Rotary control dial for the cycles has a small indicator arrow.  A visual aid such as a red contrasting color would have helped.\n\nThis washer is an excellent choice for Maytag customers, especially those with small laundry closets requiring a top loader because of limited space.  The remarkable simplicity of the Speed Queen will probably help it survive the next major storm.  Just to be sure though, I bought a washing machine surge protector.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3949, "id": 394981, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 601, "len_tokens": 696, "text": "It is difficult for me to explain just how very much I LOVE the Gourmia GI500 Digital Electric Compact Ice Maker. Difficult  because it not only works better than I ever thought possible but it fulfilled a secret dream of mine which was to make almost \"instant\" ice for my grandkids.\n\nThe first night I tried this ice maker out, only my husband & I were here. Every time we heard what became a familiar sound of the ice maker preparing to \"drop\" the ice into the basket, we rushed to the machine to watch it. This weekend most of my grandchildren were here and they, too, rushed to the machine to watch it make ice.\n\nIt was amazing that when I put it on SMALL ice, it took less than 8 min. for the first set of 6 ice \"bullets\" to plunk into the basket. (Bullets is what my grandkids call them because of their shape).\n\nThe first night my g'kids were here, I didn't tell them what this machine would do. I had them add the water & wait by the machine to see what happened. In less than 8 min. the ice machine made ice. That's faster than my refrigerator ice machine makes ice. They all grabbed a piece of the ice straight out of the machine and that's all it took for them to fall in love with it as much as my husband & I had a few days before.\n\nIt makes 3 different \"sizes\" of ice. Basically they are all the same OUTWARD size... it is how thick they are that is the difference between the small, medium & large size. We let the machine continue all day. Each time the basket was full, it made a little beeping sound. Then, we would either use the scoop that was enclosed or the basket that goes on the inside of the machine to empty the ice into bowls. We put the bowls in my outside freezer.\n\nEvery now & then, one or two of the g'kids would go to the big freezer and get a piece of ice to crunch on. PLUS our daughter was here with a sore throat and she LOVED the ice as well. It's totally different than the ice that you get from your refrigerator ice machine. It is somehow cruncher & cools a drink down faster.\n\nI have only made it with the machine on my counter top in my kitchen so far but I totally love the fact that it is portable (a bit heavy but portable none the less). All you need is an outlet and some water and pretty soon you will have ice. My son-in-law loves a ton of ice in his drinks. They go camping all the time and this would be perfect for them out on the camp site. All he has to do is add water, plug it in and with in minutes, he will have ice for his drink.\n\nAs for me, in the summer time when we have one of our parties, I plan to put this on our back porch and let it make ice during the entire party. Our guests can scoop up their own ice and never have to go into my kitchen. LOVE THIS!!!\n\nI was fortunate to receive this product at a discount in exchange for my HONEST and UNBIASED opinion. I ALWAYS pretest every product prior to writing a review. I am free to write whatever I believe to be true, whether negative or positive. This is my true story and my honest review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3950, "id": 398930, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 562, "len_tokens": 696, "text": "The Short: great inexpensive 2 USB port charger for less than a cup of Starbucks!\n\nThe Long: We've all been there, on a road trip or on the way home, car load of people and not enough charger ports to go around. Or heck, something as simple as needing a new car charger cause the previous eBay charger broke, yet again! We all come across this dilemma when needing a new car charger... do we take our chances with the cheap (cheap not inexpensive) fleabay charger, or the shady gas station charger? Or overpriced OEM charger?\n\nIf you a lot of driving, or spend a lot of time on the road, you realize quickly a good car charger is a lifeline for your phone and other portable devices (tablets, wifi hotspots, power banks, GPS). You also realize that there's a whole lot of stuff being passed off as car chargers that are nothing more than garbage, chargers that cause your screen to go crazy (too much interference), chargers that barely charge (not enough amperage), chargers that fit the DC port funny or needs just that extra wiggle to get power. Have a pile of used and abused chargers that aren't fit for charging your old feature phone? Need a new one?\n\nLook no further, Amazon and Jellas has got you covered with this dual port USB charger. Yes, both ports are capable of up to 2A EACH not 1 at 2.1A and a second at 1A, nope, both at 2A no more prioritizing which device needs more juice, no more slow charging of your phone as you use it for GPS... heck, turn that screen on stupid bright, and leave the location services on, your phone WILL charge up while plugged into this charger, how do I know? I've got 2 phones, plugged in and I'm measuring the draw for both power hungry beasts.\n\nYes, yes, the thing charges two phones at the same time, will it charge an iphone? yes it will... is it made of precious metals and aluminum? Unfortunately no, but hey, at the $3 price point, you can't go wrong. Check out the pictures below to compare the size of this charger with those mini chargers you find here and on other sites. Notice any differences? The bottom prong is longer (meaning you don't have to jam the thing totally into the DC plug) the contacts on the side? Nice and stiff, so that when you insert the charger into your DC plug, it sticks and doesn't move around and lose connection as you're playing with your phone while being driven around.\n\nSwag! the charger comes in a nice little cardboard box, which I'm kind of surprised with, only due to the low price point (I'm used to just a charger tossed into a bag), so it's eminently giftable, no one will guess how inexpensive this thing is. And finally, it comes with a little information card that states you have a 1 year warranty from the date of purchase (something you won't be getting from the cheap chargers off of fleabay or your local liquor store.)\n\nOnly thing that would make this monster deal better? a QC2.0 port. Other than that, it's a great charger for the price.\n\nHope y'all enjoyed the review and hopefully it helped you make the right choice (buy one.. really).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3951, "id": 399139, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 515, "len_tokens": 641, "text": "I bought two - one for each guitar.  Using two at the same time poses a bit of a convenience and/or storage issue. According to the instructions, you have to keep each device ten feet apart from each other. I had to find another place to keep one of my guitars when in the case. The way my \"studio\" room is laid out, it wasn't a problem.  I had a problem setting up the devices, but it was like a glitch that I was able to correct. It was as if the app didn't recognize a second device's own readings, but, \"poof\" the device seemed to correct itself.  A finicky aspect of Bluetooth?  Trusting the readings are correct, I love this device.  I receive a notification on my iPad when a guitar case gets too humid!  I then place a dehumidifier in the case and I am able to track the level of humidity without opening the case.  You can also reset the factory defaults. For example, it is set to alert when humidity reaches 60%.  I do not want the humidity to exceed 55% and I was able to adjust the notification alert.  (Instructions state it sends notifications after three days of improper humidity levels, but I receive a notice immediately.).  My only issue is that I am repeatedly receiving notifications that the battery is low for both devices. I open the app and see it is not low, as there is a battery life indicator. Then, the device realizes this, too, and turns off the warning.  Maybe, they have to upgrade the app?  Bugs are common in new apps/software, so I anticipate future app upgrades.  That being said, I highly recommend this device.  Even with the battery notification glitch, it still works.\n\nUpdate: one sensor will no longer will no longer connect. I've reset the battery multilple times to no avail. I suspect my other sensor will stop connecting. Both sensors began to lose connectivity, like a flickering light, which delayed connection. Now one sensor will no longer connect - like a burnt out light bulb.\n\nSECOND UPDATE: First, I want to mention that I overlooked the customer support offered when I wrote my initial update. However, thru this review, the company has contacted me and has proved to have outstanding customer service.  There were in fact, bugs in the app, which have been fixed. Actually, my original review cites a glitch with the battery indicator.  That wasn't a glitch.  One bug in the app drained the battery.  The company has been on top of problems with the app and has been updating the app as bugs appear.  They were able to pin point the problem I was having and they are going to send me a new battery, too.  Customer support is very friendly and committed to perfecting this great innovation.  It is typical for any new software or app to have problems (bugs) when it is released. D'Adarrio's commitment to quickly fixing bugs by updating the app and working with customers is commendable.  I highly recommend the Humiditrak and D'Addario.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3952, "id": 399624, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 495, "len_tokens": 693, "text": "I've had this washer for a little more than a week and am very pleased. I ordered it on Friday, August 19, 2016 and it was delivered Tuesday, August 23, 2016 by 10:00 AM.\n\nThis replaces the basic Panda washer I bought in January 2013 (https://www.amazon.com/Package-Panda-Portable-Compact-Capacity/dp/B005GM942C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472653538&sr=8-3&keywords=panda+washer). That washer was a workhorse for us. It's basically a 5 gallon bucket with an agitator at the bottom but it got the clothes clean. It lasted more than 3 1/2 years and was money well spent.\n\nThe Della mini compact washing machine is a definite upgrade for us. I really enjoy using it. I put it through it's paces from the start. I did 10 loads of clothes in the first 3 days (we went without a washer for several weeks and had been washing in the sink. I wasn't convinced our current clean clothes were actually clean, so I rewashed).\n\nUnlike most users, I am able to connect the small hose to my kitchen faucet. For some reason, a previous tenant removed the aerator on my basic kitchen faucet and it's never been replaced. Because the aerator is removed, I'm able to connect the hose and use the clip to secure it. It takes a minute to get the right placement, but once it's on, it's a solid hold.\n\nAll of the details work as promised. The water pump removes the water, the spin dryer gets the clothes nearly dry and the clothes are very clean. I enjoy knowing I'm fully rinsing my clothes and being able to use fabric softener again. The built-in water pump is very convenient.\n\nEven though this washer is the smaller of the two Della washers, it washes more clothes than my Panda washer did. I am able to wash a week's worth of men's socks and underwear plus 3 t-shirts at one time, several pairs of men's khakis or 3 men's dress shirts and t-shirts. I could probably fit more but I really want the clothes to have room to circulate and get really clean.\n\nThere was a bit of a learning curve for me, even though I'd read many reviews and watched videos. It's all very straightforward and not at all complicated, but it took several accidental moppings of my kitchen floor before I got the process down. It takes me about 40 minutes to wash each load, using the 15 minute timer for both the wash and rinse cycles.\n\nI use this in tandem with the Sonya small compact dryer I purchased in May 2013 (https://www.amazon.com/Sonya-Apartment-110vstainless-Transparent-2-65cu-ft/dp/B008XM3CAW). Because of the spin dryer, clothes dry in half the time.\n\nMy only complaint is minor - the power cord is too short. I have to connect via an extension cord.  I am very pleased with this purchase and would not hesitate to recommend the Della washer. For those who don't have in-home washer/dryer hook-ups, live in a dorm, etc this is the most convenient and effective laundry alternative.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3953, "id": 399818, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 592, "len_tokens": 643, "text": "Let me begin by saying thank you OneBigoutlet for resolving my problem in a timely manner.  Im happy with the way they handle my problem, the quick response and the deliverance of the machine was wonderful. Now this electric small mini portable compact washing machine was introduced to me when I travelled to visit my daughter.  My daughter move in a apartment that has a washing machine and dryer hook up, but she could not afford the washer and dryer at the time to clean her children clothes so she brought the mini portable washer and dryer. I live in a condo that have a laundry room with only one washer and dryer and they keep the place dirty with dust and mildew and bugs which me and my daughter are allergic to. My household has very bad allergy so we need to keep our clothes, towels, sheets and quilts clean weekly to keep our allergy to a minimum. So we try to utilize the laundry mates thinking we can save money and that they will keep it clean and free from dust but that didn't work ever. Then I came across this washing machine and I decided to try it. The washing machine is small to place anywhere in the room and Its very light for me to move into the kitchen to wash. I had my kitchen remodel so the model double sink and faucet make it harder to attach the hose, but I can go to home depot to get something to make it work or I can always fill up a bucket if I need to but it's too much on my back. The machine has three knobs the first knob is for how many minutes you select but it goes up to 15 minutes, but I wash twice so that it total of 30 minutes,  second knobs is to soak your clothes or normal wash and to drain the water faster which I love that feature and  the last knob is for the time of your spin dry cycle time goes to 15 minutes and you only have to utilize it once your laundry are almost dry.  It also has a wash water inlet to insert the hose to the faucet to wash your clothes and it has a spin inlet as well to rinse the clothes before spinning.  The washer tub is big for me to put my clothes in, my whites and colors came out clean. It comes with a drain hose that can attach to my sink to drain the water out with no trouble. The spin comes with a spin cover to safety cover the clothes to spin. One thing is to put the machine on a flat and solid ground. And make sure your clothes are put in the spin tub evenly if not the machine will create a loud spin noise and move around.  The spin tub dry all of my clothes that are made from light material and heavy material completely dry before the daylight was over. If you hang them outside everything including your towels and quilts will be dry in less time because of the spin dry cycle. Not only do I save money, it helps maintain my allergies and it solve my problem when there is no washer and dryer hook up and you would like to wash in the privately of your own household. Being a mom of three and now a grandmother we found solution when need. This is a plus and a great product.  ", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3954, "id": 400115, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 522, "len_tokens": 639, "text": "My Whirlpool Cabrio washing machine had developed a persistent issue a few months ago with the inner drum going off balance and maniacally banging around the unit almost every time I did the laundry.  It didn't matter what the size of the load was, or the water level, it would go awry almost every load, even though the contents were perfectly distributed inside the machine.  By the umpteenth time of infernal banging; hours of wasted time to complete a single load; and wasted gallons of water, I was ready to throw the set out and buy something new.\n\nMy washing machine is from 2008, model WTW6200SW2, so after looking online for a potential cause, I discovered it was likely the suspension rods. The rods came factory boxed and labeled as a genuine Whirlpool part, made in the U.S. and technically speaking, it is really easy to do the replacement of this part.  Physically speaking, as a moderately strong female, it was a tricky task, but totally doable solo.  HEADS UP FOR LID ISSUE: The lid on my washer refused to allow the spring clips to release one at a time.  If one spring clip fully disengaged and the lid corner was even moderately lifted, it was IMPOSSIBLE to press in the other clip.  To finally be able to release the lid, I had to press in one spring clip and lift that side \"just enough\" to separate it, but not disengage from the clip, and hold the lid it in that extremely awkward position while I disengaged the other clip.\n\nI live in a condo, so my washer is in a closet, and although I was able to replace both front rods without pulling the washer out more than a few inches for the lid accommodation, I did end up having to pull the washer out of the closet all the way for proper body positioning and easy rear rod access.\n\nTIP: I foolishly did not remove the grease residue off the rod stems, thinking it might be anti rust lube, so I struggled horribly installing the first two rods, because the darn things just kept sliding down before I could latch them onto their mounts.  However, once I cleaned the stems, it was very easy to get a solid grip on them and get the other two in place.  Upon completion,  I did three loads of laundry with varying sizes and water levels, and so far, not a single UL error, or drum banging, so this particular part seems to have completely resolved the problems with my washing machine.\n\nI will mention, the original suspension rods looked perfectly good, without any noticeable deficiencies compared to the new ones; however, they (or the design of something) obviously were kaput, because the new ones seemed to have completely fixed the imbalance issue.  I would definitely recommend trying this part first if you are experiencing a washing machine with symptoms like mine.\n\nUPDATE MAY 12/17:  Have done many loads since the replacement and not a single UL error or banging issue.\n\nUPDATE AUG 31/18:  Confirming the washer is still working perfectly since this repair.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3955, "id": 401321, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 527, "len_tokens": 619, "text": "I bought this washer about three months ago and purposely waited until now to write a review.  I wanted to wait this long, because many people complained that their washers stopped working after a few months.  So, I wanted to make sure I passed that point before I started singing it's praises.  I happy to say that so far, it is performing quite well!\n\nThe pros of this model are the motor is very strong, the agitator is very effective in helping to cleaning your clothes and the timer on the machine works well and can be easily changed for both the wash and spin cycles.  And although I bought this unit specifically because it has the spin basket (which is very useful), I still find that I need to wring the clothes out a bit in order to get rid of some of the excess water.\n\nOne of the cons with this machine is it only can handle very small loads.  So I primarily use this machine for my light weight clothing. Or if I can't make it to the laundry one week.  I use this washer to clean a few items like underwear, dress shirts and (occasional) very light weight sweaters or pants.  However all these items can't be washed in one cycle, I would have to break it up into two or sometimes three loads.\n\nThis is the same case with the spin basket.  It is only big enough to handle half of the clothes that are in one wash cycle.  So I only use it to spin dry heavier weight item...and it is effective for these items.  Especially if you let them spin for at least 5 minutes.  But, the worst part of this spin process is the more weight in the basket, the more unstable the machine becomes and it will shake a lot.  And this is not uncommon.  I've seen this with larger machines in the laundromat. I usually just place my hand on top to keep it steady.  Although I wouldn't recommend walking away from the machine during the wash or spin cycles.  Make sure the machine is not unbalanced before you leave it running.  I've learned that it can become unbalanced if there is too much water, stuffed with too many clothes, or if the basket is not connected properly.\n\nI know some people believe this is too much trouble and a waste of time and it would be better to just wash the clothes by hand.  This could be true for some, but for me I don't mind dealing with the extra time it takes.  Especially if this can all be done easily from the comfort of my home.  Also it is less labor intensive than washing clothes out by hand (I've tried it already and hated it).  And in my opinion clothes come out cleaner and are rinsed out better when I use this machine.\n\nOverall, I think this is a good machine for the price.  When I bought it I didn't really expect for it to replace my normal laundry routine, but it does help to lighten my loads and is great in a pinch.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3956, "id": 402109, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 521, "len_tokens": 632, "text": "It's taken me awhile to figure out how best to make this work without buying additional \"stuff,\" and I finally think I have it.  Despite the fact that a piece has already broken (more on that later), I'm really glad I bought this, and I did based on reviews; hence my taking the time to write about my experience.  For inquiring minds, it does come in a box that DOESN'T identify what's inside, which is good when your homeowners' docs say \"no washer.\"  Second, unboxing is a breeeze and it's not too difficult to lift and carry around.  While I wish I had bought a pump washer (and I recommend you consider it) the gravity drain works fine as long as you have it raised.  Despite what several reviewers said, just putting it in the bathtub doesn't work well because it's an insufficient drop.  I had 4 glass blocks which right now are being used to support this.  While it's a tad wobbly, particularly on spin cycle, I've run one load this way and it was fine.  Secondly, the spinner side is INCREDIBLE.  It really, really gets the liquid out and clothes dry much quicker than when you take them out of a \"regular\" washer and hang them to dry.\n\nDespite what many people wrote, I had no problem going to Home Depot and buying some plastic tubing that fits over the water intake valves.  I simply stick the tube in the washer side and put it on the intake valve on the spinner side.\n\nAs far as washing is concerned, PLEASE be careful when the detergent!  I put mine in a pump soap dispenser and slowly came to the realization that ONE pump of soap is more than enough!  Rinsing the soap out is the biggest issue and ultimately what I do is similar to what someone else posted -- I spin the laundry after washing for 1 minute or so, then put it back in the washer side and re-fill with water and \"wash\" for a few minutes (generally adding vinegar), then use the spin cycle with water flowing in for 1 minute or so,  and spin without water for 2 to 3 minutes.\n\nWhat has broken is the lid to the spinner side.  The little plastic insert your supposed to put on top of the clothes popped up and actually \"shaved\" plastic off from the inside and also somehow damaged the top lid so now I have to scotch tape it down.  I don't know what got shaved off, whether it was an inside catch or what, but I had to wipe out alot of plastic, so be sore that insert plastic disc is really pushed down on top of your clothes before you spin.\n\nOverall, for the price and quality, I highly recommend this and have now ordered the Panda 3.75 dryer so I can have the full laundry experience in house.  I'll review that after I use it for a while.  I'll also revise this posting as time goes on.  I hope this lasts longer than a year but it being lightweight plastic, we'll see.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3957, "id": 402140, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 595, "len_tokens": 695, "text": "Update: I started getting lazy about the buckets but I didn't want to go to the trouble of finding things to make the hose fit. So I just... cut off the end of the hose and stuck the other end in my hose for the shower head.\n\nFirst of all. The box has fragile on it but the delivery person apparently didn't care and just threw it onto my porch. I was able to witness it since I was sitting in the living room at the time. I feel like delivery people have dropped in quality making some experiences pretty darn awful.\n\nAfter taking the box apart which says \"carefully remove packaging\" because you can only return the thing in its original box, I noticed right away there was no obvious damage to the machine. Thankfully. However there was still damaged parts. The drain hose had a hole in it but I had something to patch it so I'm not too concerned there. The little plastic 'disc' for the salad tossing dryer had a burn on it. There was this strange sticky substance all over it, in seemingly random places. I ran some clorox wipes over the outside to get it all off. When I run the machine there are sparks that flick dangerously on occasion (I wasn't able to see it until I turned off the light in the bathroom). Basically they have really bad or non existent quality control.\n\nWhen it comes to actually using it. The sparks seem pretty \"harmless\" or as harmless as a machine that interacts with water sparking can be. There are no fill line indicators so I used the filter as reference. I tried only filling it past the two notches in the filter but that ended up being too much. So I only fill it up to the bottom of the filter. Don't worry as it gets going the water passes over it just fine. Using a single pod from Kirkland laundry detergent worked great for my needs. It holds more than I expected in clothes without stressing out. About 3 large tshirts and some pajama pants. Maybe some socks and underwear. There is a noticeable smoking smell. Like something is burning, but I inspected it over and over and it's not something I can spot. So I'm just dealing with it. When everything catches fire, at least it's in the tub so I can douse it with water. XD\n\nActual washing of the clothes... Amazing. My clothes came out nice, feeling good and fresher than when I take it to the laundromat. The water looks absolutely disgusting after a wash. I know some people do a rinse cycle, it's probably a good idea if you're worried about excess soap. I didn't have that problem, just washed it once and tossed it in the dryer. I have not had a single problem with it drying stiff or feeling gross.\n\nDryer shakes violently when it starts up then begins to normalize. If you ever really watch a drying it shakes like crazy at first as well, it's just heavier so it doesn't move around as much. Just hold onto it when it starts and you should be ok. I've had times where it shakes for a long time, just turn the timer off and try again. It has to stabilize or it won't be drying correctly.\n\nI originally wanted to give it a 3 for the poor quality, however it does what I want it to do and is fairly inexpensive. I would say it's a 3.5.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3958, "id": 402148, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 597, "len_tokens": 695, "text": "I love this mighty little washer!! I wash several loads in 1 day at my own pace while I'm home doing other things around the house. Great for emergency washes like if your child gets suddenly sick and throws up on everything..  I've had this machine for almost a year!! I love it so much I am buying another washer and giving my sister my old one to use for the new baby so she doesn't have to bring the baby clothes to a laundromat. It took about a month to figure out the best way to wash our clothes but I use this for 3 people, 2 adults and 1 child. I wash a week's worth of clothes in 1 day, I hang the clothes around my apartment on hangers, I have an over the door clothes hanging system a canopy bed that I hang the clothes around the frame and if I run out of room I just use the shower curtain rod. You can soak the clothes if they are extra dirty, sometimes my husband gets his clothes extremely dirty from work, so I soak them in moderately hot water for 25 minutes with a tablespoon or laundry soap (I don't actually measure just kind of eyeball  it) wash the full 15 minutes, drain the water, rinse for a minute with fresh water, then refill tub with fresh water and maybe some fabric softener, wash for another 15 minutes then spin dry with water for 1 minute then respin for the full 5 minutes. The clothes come out just barely damp, way dryer than the laundromat! I also use Downy wrinkle releaser spray for when they are drying to keep the clothes softer. I only use a small amount of laundry soap maybe like a tablespoon, it does go a long way! I have it stored in my bathroom and the set up is super easy I use 2 upside down milk crates in the tub with a piece of plywood to cover the top of the crates, I put the washing machine on top of that so the hose can gravity drain right down the tub drain. Also my husband and I went to home Depot and got a few hardware pieces to make the filling much easier, I used some tips from a previous reviewer, we got a split for the shower head and an adapter that we attached a hose to. Also the split for the shower head I just pull up on the nob to switch over to the hose, the push it down to switch back to the shower head. I really recommend this amazing machine totally worth the price and I'd say get the warranty just in case totally totally worth every penny!! Also since I've had this machine I've still gone to the laundromat a hand full of times and have regretted it everytime!! Mostly because of lost socks and how extremely and grossly soaked our jeans come out!! I also refuse to dry jeans at the laundromat I always  bring them home and hang them to dry. Also another til my husband is 6 ft tall and wears a size 40 in jeans/pants/shorts so I am able to fit 1 pair of his big work jeans and 2- 3 of his tshirts in 1 load and they wash beautifully. You really want to make sure that you clothes can spin freely to wash well so don't overstuff! And water level depends on how big your load is I generally fill between the medium and full line.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3959, "id": 402376, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 534, "len_tokens": 634, "text": "Rather than continually use the coin laundry machine in my apartment, I bought this to give it a go.\n\nAs the videos show, it's actually somewhat sizeable, although it can still be picked up and moved quite easily. For me, the size is enough to pick up a 'regular size' load consisting of either 14-24 pairs of underwear or 10 or so t-shirts.\n\nIn terms of ease of use, this can use some improvement at least as far as filling goes. The included fill tube is just that- a tube, and you have to find a way to adapt it to a hose (As you can see in other reviews, people have come up with all kinds of methods to secure it to a faucet). Emptying is not as annoying because the empty tube has a hook so you can leave it upright when not in use; and it's fairly substantial so it can be dumped into a drain. However, because you have to manually fill and empty it, it can get pretty messy in an apartment. Eventually, I took the easiest/laziest way of using this, opting to put the whole thing in my shower so that I can fill it directly with the showerhead and empty it directly into the drain.\n\nIn terms of actual usage, the performance of this machine is pretty surprising. As long as you manage how much you're loading it by, it does a pretty good job washing everything. For example, a pair of dirty pants from a day of hiking through the mud was completely clean by the end of a simple 10 minute cycle. A few complaints: the machine isn't quiet by modern standards (though not deafening), and if you do happen to heavily load it, I did notice a metallic smell from the motor that indicates that it's working hard. After 40 washes though, no issues.\n\nThe spin-dry function is also very surprising. Again, if you manage your loads, most of your clothes come out to almost completely dry with a < 2 minute cycle. One of the most frequently washed items for me are Ex-officio, Calvin Klein Micro material type of quick-dry underwear, and usually after a 2-minute spin cycle they come out essentially already dry. Even things like heavy jeans (provided you place only one or two of them in at a time) come out relatively dry and only need a few hours hung dry, saving substantial amounts of time. You *can* overload the spin-dry, but it would be pretty obvious as the rotation speeds would end up very slow and the machine would vibrate from the imbalance- make sure you distribute your clothing evenly around the tumbler and you're good.\n\nOverall, the convenience of being able to wash the laundry in a regular apartment without having to use coin laundry cannot be understated, and while it can be a bit clumsy to use, the machine does an excellent job actually washing laundry. And at this price point, it doesnt' even take long to recoup the cost of buying the machine vs. using coin laundry. If the company can improve the filling mechanism to be more faucet friendly, this would get 5 stars!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3960, "id": 402469, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 497, "len_tokens": 613, "text": "So far so good! I did a lot of research before purchasing this model. Per the suggestion of other reviewers, I also purchased 2 of the \"Generic Flower-type Washing Machine Floating Lint Mesh Bag Hair Filter Net Pouch Blue \" to toss into each load to help catch lint/hair, and they do a great job! They're only a few bucks, so definitely worth the expense, folks. So, I'm including a bunch of pics on how I've set mine up.\n\nAs you all know, the gravity-feed for the drain is an issue to solve in your own way. I solved it by situating my washer right on top of our guest bathroom sink (it also is a laundry room with a water spigot, which I purchased a 10 ft washer hose with a little brass clamp/off-switch (see pics) so I don't have to run back and forth to turn on/off water while trying to fill the washer.\n\nIn the pics, you'll notice that the sink doesn't look very deep. It's not, but guess what? There's only like...what, 4-6 gallons of water in the washer? There's an overflow hole in the back of the sink, and although the water does come out rather quickly, between the drain in the bottom of the sink and the overflow hole, it has never flowed out over the top of the sink (knock on wood).\n\nI have to agree with other reviewers that the spin cycle is GREAT. The clothes come out very well wrung out so that they dry much quicker. I dry as much as I can outside, and when I can't I dry inside on racks. If it's too rainy/humid and my clothes don't dry in a timely manner, I finish them off in my panda stand-up blue fabric dryer...which works pretty well.\n\nI know each person needs to sort out their work-around for  1) where/how to drain  and 2) how to get water into the washer.  This is my solution, and I'm VERY happy with it! My clothes come out very clean. I do pre-treat major stains with a bit of laundry soap (or dish soap in a pinch) and let them sit overnight with the soap on the stain before I wash the item. The washer does as good a job of getting stains out and cleaning the clothes as any big washer I've ever used (if not better).\n\nI also love that I can more easily choose how long I want each cycle. I may need only 10 mins to wash, 8 mins to rinse, and then 3.5 mins to spin out (which is what I normally do)...or, I might choose to wash for a full 12 (or more) mins for very dirty loads. It's not as easy as all that with regular washers to adjust each cycle and save on electricity! On regular washers, you basically are a slave to a super long cycle using up more electricity than perhaps is needed. Cheers!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3961, "id": 402520, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 527, "len_tokens": 637, "text": "Shipping was great. My washer arrived on time despite the delays with Hurricane Irma. I have already washed two \"loads\" one of which being my bathroom rug which took up the entire space in the washing tub. I decided to use my washer in the kitchen as opposed to the tub in the bathroom. It is not heavy but I imagined it can get tiresome moving it from the tub to the closet/wall. It is important to find an economical and functional space for it BEFORE you buy. As others have stated the paper directions that come with it are HILARIOUS so ignore those. A simple YouTube video on how it works is all you need. Another thing you will want to do is raise the washer off the ground. It is a gravity draining washer so you need to elevate it in order to drain completely. After looking for something to buy in store to no avail, I went to the hardware store and got materials to build this 9\" tall wooden stand. (tip: ask the associate to show you to the scrap wood area. You may get a deep discount and/or even free wood like I did). I used a large dish pan to catch the water. Don't worry. You'll only have to empty it to two times max. I thought about getting a small cooler on wheels that I can put down there to have the water drain into, then when full just roll it out to the backyard and water the grass...But for now this will do. The spinner is AMAZING! I set it on 5 minutes and my bathroom rug (which I squeezed down in there and set for only 3 mins.) was completely dry. Clothes are 85%-90% dry. My only gripe (thus the 4 star rating) is the water inlet tube is too short to reach my kitchen faucet so I'm in the process of looking for a longer one. I DO NOT want to have to move the washer directly in front of the kitchen sink! to wash. Overall I am satsistfied so far. I will try my best to update this post every 3 months.\n\nRecommendations:\n1. If you notice leaks check your water level. Don't fill the water to high. I use the Medium line\n2. Use just 1/4 cup of liquid soap or you will be rinsing for hours. And i do rinse at least one time. Drain the dirty water, fill tub with clean water and let wash for about 6 minutes. Less is truly more and your clothes will still be clean.\n3. Use a fabric softener as well so your clothes won't have that rough, stiff feeling afterwards.\n4. You will notice a burning rubber smell upon first use. Totally normally just like any electrical device when you first use it.\n5. Don't overload the washer. It begins to shake when it's off balance. I washed 2 shirts, 3 pair of undies, one jean pant, 2 wash rags, 1 pair of socks sign I problem.\n6. Leave both lids open after using so tubs can dry\n7. Unplug unit when not in use.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3962, "id": 404657, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 527, "len_tokens": 635, "text": "I've had this machine for a few months now. First and foremost, the ice this machine makes stinks. It smells like plastic or some manufacturing odor. I thought the smell would dissipate with time, but it hasn't. We cannot use this ice for drinking, because it makes our drinks smell bad. Luckily, I purchased to primarily make ice for ice compresses to treat migraines. For that it works well, as I cannot smell the ice when it is sealed in my ice bag. I've created ice with the same water using this machine and ice cube trays. Only the ice from this machine smells. I cleaned the ice maker as indicated in the start-up instructions, but perhaps it needs a more thorough cleaning. It doesn't really lend itself to that, however I may try to clean it more thoroughly. I will update my review if anything changes.\n\nIt makes ice fast, but wait. First cubes come out in about 6 minutes (wow), but you only get about enough cubes for 1 glass (barely). The cubes are small. However, although the larger size cubes don't look that much bigger, they are thicker so melt considerably  slower. We keep it on the large ice setting.\n\nIce created is often wet. After watching the machine, it seems that overflow water from filling the ice \"tray\" may flow over the previously created ice en route to the water reservoir below. Also any water that has pooled below the ice tray may be scooped into the ice basket with the next cubes. Not sure why that was a good design choice, but that's what it does sometimes.\n\nThis design has also led to occasional wonkiness in operation:\nThe created ice is \"stored\" in a basket over the water reservoir. As stated above, when the ice tray is filled in prep for making ice, some extra water may flow into the ice basket to the water reservoir below. I think the water is intended to flow adjacent to the basket. However, if the ice basket is wedged into place too firmly, overflow water may pool in the area below the ice tray instead of flowing into the reservoir. When that has happened, the machine just keeps cycling without producing ice. I fixed the issue by reseating the ice basket, so the pooled water can exit. I may have had to unplug then plugin the machine afterward.\n\nIt's not quiet. I wanted a quiet machine and this is not it. The machine makes a variety of noises (clicks, gurgling water, humming, ice falling, etc) as it goes through its cycle. The hum when it is freezing ice is the least obtrusive, but still quite noticeable. For this reason we unplug the machine unless we need to make ice. I wouldn't have it on in a room while I was watching a movie. It likely wouldn't prevent you from hearing the movie (except maybe lower parts, lol), but would probably be a distraction.\n\nFor some reason I've yet to determine, the power light blinks somewhat randomly when the machine is off but still plugged in. I now keep it unplugged when not in use.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3963, "id": 404812, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 505, "len_tokens": 608, "text": "I have owned some version of a countertop ice maker for about the last five years. Doesnt matter the brand, and doesnt matter the size...most if them work Im the same manner. As ice cubes are made, they are held in a basket above the cold water. If they are not used, they eventually begin to melt, the water will drain into the reservoir, and new ice will be made. The unit itself is NOT a freezer, so keep that in mind if you consider ordering ANY portable ice maker. My story has been the same...the ice maker arrives, it supplies enough ice for about one person to be satisfied with. Hot summers become more difficult for the machine to keep up with demand, and frequently the lid is opened only to find a disappointing amount of ice has been made. Add another person to the mix, and it is impossible for the machine to keep up. UNTIL NOW...This machine is AMAZING (and it is quite a bit larger than most of the units I have owned). Well that extra size appears to pay off greatly...more than adequate ice in the morning (when the ice is softest due to non-use melting), and a full ice basket all day and evening long. The basket is larger and therefore holds more ice...more than enough for 2 people to use all day long. It is with hesitation that I used to open the lid in the morning  (expecting to just see bits of ice in basket), and am now almost overjoyed when I see a full basket of ice staring back at me. If you have had bad luck with an ice maker of an sort, you know what I am talking about,  I am THRILLED with this machine. However....these machines do not last forever, so I would suggest you consider the following: 1) ALWAYS purchase an EXTENDED WARRANTY for your machine...at least 2 years or more. These warranties (purchased through Amazon) have covered me twice when my previous machines have konked out at 18 to 24 months. Full reimbursement of purchase price, no hassles. 2) CLEAN your machine. In all the owner manuals I have read, not one of the suggests cleaning (or de-scaling) the machine. Amazon sells ice maker cleaner which is nickel safe, and will not harm the machine. I recommend wiping down the inside of the machine with the diluted solution, AND running at least a portion of it through several ice making batches to clean out the water tubes also. I clean my coffee maker monthly...but never thought about ice machine. 3) Change the water in the machine about every 3 month (or more). Regardless of your cleanliness when removing ice and adding new water, some dust particles (or possibly more) will settle inside the water in your machine. Just drain the water, and refill, before any of that sediment moves into the water pipes, if your water has sediment in it, filter the water before adding it to the icemaker.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3964, "id": 405462, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 554, "len_tokens": 685, "text": "I've been running this fridge for about 1 month now, and I'll break my ratings into different categories.\n\nPrice: 5 stars\n- The price is good for this style of fridge. It actually dropped to $599 for a brief time and I was able to get it at that price.\n\nTemperature: 3.5 stars\n- I placed a dish of water on the top shelf and one on the bottom shelf and let them sit overnight. With the temp set at 38 deg, I measured each dish of water with a very accurate thermometer. The top measured 42 deg, and bottom measured 47 deg. I then reset the temp to 42 degrees and remeasured the next day. Top=46 deg, bottom=50 deg. So, the temperature seems consistently ~4-8 degrees higher than the setting. I don't feel this is necessarily a problem, but just don't expect it to get down to 38 degrees, nor have it be consistent throughout (as no fridge is).\n\nNoise: 3 stars\n- Compared to the other fridge I was replacing, this one is louder. However, that fridge was probably twice the price as this one. You can definitely hear it when the compressor is running, but it's not obnoxiously loud. Don't expect it to be \"silent.\"\n\nLighting: 1.5 stars\n- This is the one thing I dislike most about this fridge. The interior is completely black, and the only light is a dim blue LED that is either on all the time or off all the time (using switch). I find it very difficult to see the items in the fridge whether the light is on or not, and have resorted to using a flashlight to deal with it. My old fridge had a nice bright white light that turned on only when the door was opened, and I never realized how much I took that for granted.\n\nExterior: 4 stars\n- Looks nice. Handle has some kind of sharp right-angle edges on the mounting hardware; nothing that will cut you, but you just notice it when you grab the handle. It would have been nice if they rounded-off the corners.\n\nInterior: 3 stars\n- Besides cans, it will fit a wide variety of bottles. It easily handles 6 bottles of wine on a single shelf (laying on their sides). As stated, I'm not a big fan of the black interior or the very poor lighting, but it does make it look nice aesthetically. The shelves do seem a little unstable if you pull them too far forward (i.e. they tip forward), but it's something you can get used to.\n\nOverall: 3.5 stars\n- I'm weighting the price a little more than the other categories, as it's just really hard to find a decent under counter fridge at a decent price. If I spent twice as much, it might not have some of the issues this one does, but, then again, I've read enough negative reviews of the higher priced ones that figured I'd take a chance on this.\n\nAlthough I rarely buy extended warranties, I decided to get the 4 year extension on this, since the warranty cost less than the $100 I saved on the price. Compact fridges seem to have more than their share of problems, but, of course, the extended warranty is a personal choice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3965, "id": 409457, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 461, "len_tokens": 653, "text": "Today I received my&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/USA-MADE-Maytag-UKF7003-Replacement-Also-replaces-Whirlpool-EDR7D1-Whirpool-UFK7003AXX-Refrigerator-Water-Filters-Guaranteed-Fit-and-Function/dp/B01BP0E36K/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">USA MADE Maytag UKF7003 Replacement. Also replaces Whirlpool EDR7D1, Whirpool UFK7003AXX Refrigerator Water Filters. Guaranteed Fit and Function!</a>&nbsp;and was excited to get the filter replaced since the red filter light came on the fridge. The product was wrapped in in a shrink fit saran wrap that was clearly not an airtight seal. There was no cover over the connection or anything, just the plastic wrap. I removed the plastic and went to replace on the refrigerator as always.\n\nIt was an easy installation following the directions printed on the label (1/4 turn to undo and another 1/4 turn to install). The product fit felt just like the original Maytag brand filter that was previously installed. Then I went to run the 2-5 minutes of water to clear out any filter particles and prepare the filter for use.\n\nUpon using the filter, there were strange sounds coming from inside the refrigerator as if air was seeping into the product somehow. I thought it was simply the newness and some air that was in the filter from the factory. After about 30 seconds, I could tell it was not getting better and the product was not operating correctly. After the short runtime I went and removed the filter to see if there was something noticeably incorrect. When I did the 1/4 turn to remove it shot down with a huge amount of pressure spraying water all over the top shelf. I figured it was some mis-installation so I looked the filter over and gave it another try. Same result.\n\nI had it and was overly frustrated. This was not the first filter installed in the refrigerator and it certainly should not work without issue right out of the packaging.\n\nOn my way to the trash, I notice a plastic o-ring sitting on the floor. After a second, it hit me that it was the top seal of the filter. It was so loose that when I took the saran wrap off the unit the ring came right with it.\n\nI put the ring back on and re-installed the filter one last time. Viola, that was the seal where the air was seeping into the filter and causing the unit to not work correctly.\n\nThe good:\n- The product does work as a replacement for the UKF7003.\n\nThe bad:\n- The o-ring might be loose which speaks to the quality of the manufacturing. (A bit dangerous after it might pressurize while air is leaking in)\n- The packaging doesn't seem like a very good seal with just plastic wrap and has me questioning the filter's overall quality.\n\nNext time I'll be searching a little harder for a Maytag branded product instead of a 3rd party.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3966, "id": 428784, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 297, "len_tokens": 612, "text": "Darn it...my husband bought this before checking Amazon and, of course, it was a little more expensive and he had to pay shipping.  But it's a nice fridge.  It's clearly geared toward students (better be of age for alcohol) in dorms--the first writing is a reminder of exams!  On the inside door at the left is a full-length vertical can dispenser; and since the fridge is taller than wide it holds a lot.\n\nYes, as other customers report, the marker doesn't show well at all.  If seems like it's sort of dry and you need to scribble to get any ink out...then it's very faint. If you like this feature, you'd have to get a thick white and/or neon marker.  But I would never base my purchase on this small detail: if you really need to label what's inside, get a magnetic whiteboard like we have on our regular fridge, ones like these:\n\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Best-Dry-Erase-Magnetic-White-Board-11-x-14-Inches-For-Wall-Kitchen-Fridge-at-Home-or-Office-Marker-Eraser-4-Magnets-and-Mounting-H-W-by-DiamondTab-Lightweight-Rewritable-Wipe-off-Surface-Ebook-Gratis/dp/B00PVGJK7C/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Best Dry Erase Magnetic White Board 11 x 14 Inches, For Wall, Kitchen Fridge, at Home or Office, Marker, Eraser, 4 Magnets and Mounting H/W by DiamondTab - Lightweight Rewritable Wipe off Surface, Ebook Gratis!</a>&nbsp;or\n\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Magnetic-Weekly-Dry-Erase-Calendar-10-25-34-h-X-14-25-34-w/dp/B0167S4M02/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Magnetic Weekly Dry Erase Calendar 10.25\"h X 14.25\"w</a>\n\nPlease also shop around here on Amazon: a white fridge can be more easily read with the markers:\n\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/3-2-Cubic-Foot-Dry-Erase-Board-Fridge/dp/B019RF0HWO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">3.2 Cubic Foot Dry Erase Board Fridge</a>\n\nIt even costs a buck or two less.  My husband wanted this fridge to store extra wine and beer in the basement for parties and he wishes it were shaped a little better to accommodate more bottles...he doesn't do cans  He's trying to fiddle with the temp as it seems pretty cold but I think he just doesn't have the hang of it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3967, "id": 430252, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 435, "len_tokens": 605, "text": "I ordered this based upon the product description which represents that:\n\"All components NSF-42/53 certified.  The Activated Carbon Block Filter inside has NSF42/53 approval.\" Being leery of these claims I also searched the reviews for \"53\" to see if in fact this was true.\n\nAfter reading a review by a reviewer posted on 3/12/15 \"No Worries\" I went ahead an purchased. The filter (i.e. model RFC0600A) and packaging that I received looks just like the one in the photo and includes a product specifications/data sheet. I was just about to install the filter and decided to check for the NSF 53 certification again just to make sure before opening the protective plastic wrapping. The specification sheet however does not support the claim of NSF 53 certification. Nowhere on the box or spec does it say NSF 53 certified. Although it does say NSF 42 (i.e. Aesthetic Effects... taste of the filtered water) and NSF 372 (i.e. which filters lead content)............ the NSF 53 certification, you know the one that filters out contaminants that will affect your health:\nheavy metals (arsenic, cadmium, chromium, copper, lead, mercury and selenium), inorganics (fluoride and nitrate plus nitrite) and volatile organic chemicals (chloroform surrogate as well as individual organic chemicals) NOT SO.\n\nBut don't take my word on it. Check for yourself. Go to the -Water Quality Association- website and search for this model and you will find the same certifications that are on the product specification sheet (i.e. NSF/ANSI 42 & 372) but it will not list NSF/ANSI 53. You can also check NSF-org.\n\nBUT WAIT... There's More...!!  Go to One Purify's website ShopOnePurity and you'll find that there is no contact information other than an email hmm... -SUSPICIOUS-? No storefront, warehouse, office address, phone number to contact. I suspect that is because \"One Purity\"/\"Ice Pure\" are just shell companies for \"Tianjin Jinghai Yunda Industry and Trade Co., Ltd.\" yes, a CHINESE company and we all know about their standards/ethics, which is the name listed on WQA's website for that particular product model number.\n\nIf you're only concerned about how your water taste, then save your money and buy it. HOWEVER, If you're concerned about you health and the health of your friends, family and pets DON'T BUY! This is blatant false advertising!\n\nDon't believe the product description. Take the reviewer's comments with a grain of salt. Do check the WQA (water quality association website) and NSF (national science foundation organization website)... for yourself and save yourself the time/money/headache.\n\nWater is LIFE.\n\nI will add a photo of the product specification sheet when I get a chance.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3968, "id": 432581, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 530, "len_tokens": 628, "text": "I bought these for a 2015 GE Cafe fridge that needed the RPWF-E filter - if you just need an RPWF, skip to the next paragraph. As others have mentioned, the E at the end means the filter needs a genuine GE filter because of an RFID chip that is supposed to protect against leaks, but really forces you to buy the GE filters for $50 each. Placing this in the slot caused an immediate error which stopped water flow, and required pulling the RFID chip from the back of the old filter and placing it on the new one. This is very simple to do, as there will be a raised box on the back of a GE filter underneath some adhesive which can easily be removed and placed on any new filter.\n\nOther filters on Amazon complain that what the buyer received was not a new filter. My order contained a box of 3 filters that were individually sealed in plastic with an additional plastic cap over the nozzle where it connects to the fridge. While the environment may hate us all, it gives some peace of mind about new/used filters in a crappy box.\n\nThe box states you need to run 2 gallons of water through the filter to get it set up, but I live on the edge so here's what will happen based on how many ounces you dispense:\n0-6 ounces: your fridge still has reserve water in the line, it's coming through fine\n6-32 ounces: Water is slowly entering the filter and air is sometimes coming out instead. It's a mix between a California drought and Yellowstone erupting all over my rug\n32-128 ounces: every 12-16 ounces there's a bit of a pause and a pulse of more water. It sounds like the stream of that old guy who's staring at you in the urinal while he pees\n128+: water pressure is up to par with the genuine filter, water tastes clean, and you feel good because you bought 3 for less than the price of 1\n\nWith the -E filters, the fridge will still think it's the same expired one and alert you every month to replace and buy new genuine GE filters. My original filter that came with the fridge tasted TERRIBLE, and I've yet to notice that with these. If you're wiling to put up with an alert every month telling you you're overdue, this is for you. If you want the genuine experience and a 6 month alert telling you to change out the filter, the genuine GE filters are available on amazon for a few bucks cheaper than retail. If you're really cheap, there's a filter by Waterdrop that's a bit less than this one, but I haven't used those so I cannot vouch for their quality (though I have seen them on clearance at walmart for $1 a filter).\n\nOverall I am very satisfied with the ease of installation (despite GE's best efforts), taste of water, promptness of shipping, water pressure, no leaks, and price. I will update this review in the event that these filters do not meet the 5 stars that I have awarded them.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3969, "id": 432921, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 587, "len_tokens": 682, "text": "Wash machines come in two types, fully automatic(with spin cycle)and semiautomatic(no spin cycle)like this one. This does a good job of washing but is a lot more work than a conventional fully automatic wash machine. A separate spin dryer like the Nina Soft is a must in my opinion. Well, on to the review.\n\nPackaging -\n It came in a factory box with wash machine clearly written on the sides. It has protection on the top and bottom but there is no  protection on the sides. This is the reason for the reports of broken hoses from other reviewers. This is an issue that should be addressed.\n\nWarranty/User manual -\n This has a very basic user manual that does not have any warranty or contact info from the manufacturer. You have 30 days from amazon and whatever the seller offers. This needs to be put in the product description. With products like this an extended warranty is worth the few dollars if it fails 6 months from now.\n\nFeatures -\n The product description is also lacking in an accurate list of features so here it is.\n\nWash cycle - A simple timer that allows you to set the wash time from 1-15 minutes. You only need around a tablespoon of soap per large load. Unless your clothes are really dirty you only need a 6-8 min wash cycle to get your clothes clean. Don't overload it, your clothes need to freely \"turn\" as it agitates. The people that say this washer is hard on your clothes must be overloading it. It isn't hard on my clothes and doesn't tie my clothes into knots, though I would recommend a laundry wash bag for delicates.\n That being said, the impeller speed does seem to be faster than it needs to be. Maybe the Chinese engineers could give us a speed setting for the motor in the future.\n\nNormal or Gentle Agitation - The impeller turns one way,stops, and then turns the other way to agitate the clothes. What the Gentle setting does is shorten the spin time, it doesn't actually slow the impeller speed. This is a nice option that I use a lot because the impeller speed is quite aggressive.\n\nDrain Pump - This unit has a drain pump that works well. I can't imagine putting this on a counter for a gravity drain unless you have a very large, sturdy countertop. Maybe a walk-in shower or very sturdy stand would work for the gravity drain models into the bathtub, etc.\n\nLint Filter - This little thing does work but the user manual doesn't tell you how to remove it to clean. It is very easy, just put your finger on top and to the back of the lint filter. Then gently press down and tilt the filter out of its notch. Turn the filter inside out to clean and reinsert it top up(it's marked)the same way you removed it.\n\n All in all it seems to be good little machine that gets your clothes clean if you use it right. The hoses are pretty cheap looking and I question the longevity of them and the machine in general, but if you don't overload it it will hopefully last a while.\n A fully automatic washer is much better but if this type of machine is what you are looking for, you probably won't get much better than this.\n\n Because of the incomplete/inaccurate product description and poor packaging I took off a star.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3970, "id": 433026, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 511, "len_tokens": 645, "text": "UPDATE 3/1\nStill loving this machine. But after looking behind the spin basket i noticed orange waxy stuff. And i cant get the plastjc smell out of washer. Nit a huge issue, but i cant clean behind the spin basket and have tried how water, soap, ect. It smells odd.  And the drain hose doesn't drain 100%, theres always some in there that i have to pay the hose down flat to get.\n\nORIGINAL: I got this yesterday so ill update if anything changes.\nIt's a lot larger than I thought. My friend had the costway one and it was a lot smaller!\nNow, I don't know if we are allowed to have this because we all split the water bill in my giant apartment, but we don't use our dishwasher so I think it's even.\nThis can fit a pretty decent clothes load. I got (on a medium/large ish cycle) 7 shirts, a cardigan, a skirt, a dress, and some socks. The spin cycle is amazing.\nPro tip------DONT USE A LOT OF SOAP!!!We make our own soap using doctor bronners Sal suds....and washing soda.....ECT.\nOnly use a tablespoon of normal laundry detergent at MOST. This also takes a while to fill up, so I threw it on my bathroom sink (the little metal loopy thing helps it not budge) and i took a shower while it filled up (it took quite a bit)\nFill er up. I washed the clothes for about 8 minutes(I'd probably do 15 for towels or my dudes work clothes)  then drained. After it was done draining I threw the drain hose on the ground to make sure it was empty(on top of a dirty towel, AFTER the spin cycle as well)\nSpin cycle-2 minutes works on cotton, 5 on wool and towels. (I throw some water in on the spin side to.rinse it, and throw the drain hose in the wash part to save some water.)\nKeep it open after use so you don't grow mold in it. My clothes are almost dry and I threw them on a hanger 30 minutes ago.\nI hate laundromats and lugging clothes up and down 3 flights of stairs.\n\nCons- I have 3 cats. There's still a little hair on stuff, so I'm going to get a floating lint catcher thing. I heard that helps. You may need a 3 prong extension cord, I'm going to get one tomorrow.\n\nIt's not the quietest thing, but we have weird stonework tile that's not perfectly even, so that may be it. I'm going to put it on a cheap yoga mat to see if that helps.\n\nIt also moves during the first part of the spin cycle. After she gets rolling though, she's fine.\n\nAll in all, I'm a happy customer.\n\nAfter heavy usage, more tips I have-\nYou can reuse the wash water, use your discretion though. And put the rinse water into the wash water.) I only do this for towels and such(so i don't transfer lint, have to keep filling it up, ect)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3971, "id": 433044, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 581, "len_tokens": 678, "text": "So all the reviews I read about this machine were accurate. You need to put a little work into it for it to be just perfect.\nWhat you will need:\nGarden Hose\nHose connecting Adapter\nClamp Rings\nEye Hoods\nCraft Wire\n\nWorking with what you have:\nThe hose is 2 small and you need an adapter. I found a simple solution by going to home depot and getting a clear hose to attach to the hose. Before inserting the hose I inserted a plastic connector into the open end of the washing machine hose.\nThis allowed the hose to remain in place in the clear hose.\nI then used clamp rings to make sure it would not come out and hold it together.\nI have made this portable mini washing machine into a non-movable one by putting the hose to drain in the sink.\nI attached eye hooks to the wall and used craft wire to wrap around the hose and threaded it through the hooks.\nThe hose for intake is also too small.\nEasy fix for that situation as well.\nI took a garden hose found an adapter for my kitchen sink ( don't drink tap water anyway so removed tap filter to place adapter)\nNow when I want to use the machine I only have to connect the hose and fill the tub with hot or cold water depending on what I'm washing.\n\nRating:\nI gave this machine 4 stars because of the work I had to put into it to work. But also when I received it in the box, it looked brand new, it did not work. The machine would not agitate. I refused to have to return it so I decided to open up the back panel. it seemed that a connector had come undone or just not placed in snuggly. I reconnected it and the machine started working.\nI bought this machine for 100.00 and it was every bit worth it. I invested another 15 dollars tops for the hoses, adapter, and eye hooks.\nI have saved over 200.00 in the last 5 months. The machine works very well. I got the largest capacity\n\nReview:\nI don't normally write long reviews or steps I take when buying stuff online. I'm a single mom but  DIYer (do it yourself-er). However, I figured other moms may be looking into a washing machine that is affordable and this by far takes the cake for me. The machine has the tub area and the spin section as you may have seen in the videos. If you overload the machine it won't agitate very well. Just remove a couple of items and you will see the machine agitate and swirl. The spinner really does remove all the excess water and practically dries the clothes. I have hung up my clothing in the bathroom for a period of 1-3 hours and the clothing has been completely dry. (side note jeans take a little longer).  Another side note. I like to keep my apartment cold because I'm always so hot and the clothes still dried in that amount of time.\n\nAnother thing and caution. I didn't realize the lid was fragile or I didn't judge my own strength. I put some weight on the lid and it cracked. Not chipped or broken just a line so don't put anything heavy on the lid or you may crack it as well.\n\nHope this review helped. I would definitely buy this product again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3972, "id": 434720, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 504, "len_tokens": 650, "text": "If you are reading this, and have a need for an under cabinet, 30\" wide, 6\" round ducted range hood, pause now, click on the \"Add to Cart\" button and then come back and read the rest. When you're done, you're going to buy this. Seriously. If I could give it more than 5 stars, I would.\n\nI cook a lot. We have a 900 square foot kitchen, and my family has muddled through the last 10 years with a 250 CFM Kenmore range hood.  I am overwhelmingly impressed with the BV Range Hood. This sucker (see what I did there?) far outperforms my previous range hood, and probably any other that I have ever experienced at anyone's house, in my entire over-four-decades life.\n\nPROS:\nIt's powerful!\nThe smell of cooking bacon used to linger in our house for 3 to 4 days.  We'd be opening the windows, using fans, our prior range hood, etc. The first day after we bought it, I made bacon.  I kept the windows closed in our kitchen, and ran the range hood. I was prepared to run the stopwatch on my phone to see how long it would take to suck the smell out. I didn't do that. Because I there was NO BACON SMELL IN THE ROOM. Since then, I have made Chinese stirfry, fried cod, my wife has baked cookies, we've burnt pizza, and none of those smells have lingered at all. My children used to joke that \"Dinner's ready when the smoke alarm goes off\". They have not made that joke a single time, with this range hood.\n\nIt's pretty quiet!\nThere are three settings. On the lowest setting, I can have a normal conversation with someone sitting next to me. On the highest setting, I do have to raise my voice, but it's comparable to my prior range hood.\n\nIt's super easy to use!\nFive buttons. One button for a light. Three buttons, one for each level of fan speed. And a fifth button to turn it off. Tapping the off button also runs the fan for another minute, and then automatically shuts off.\n\nIt's easy to clean!\nI am baffled (see what I did there?) why anyone would want a range hood that has those cottony-insulation looking filters, or aluminum filters that you have to replace. These stainless steel baffles are dishwasher safe, and the best part, is that they are the entire cooking-facing surface of the hood. So underneath, it's not like there is a section of hood that you have to reach under and wash with a sponge. No need. The entire bottom is occupied by the removable baffles, and a trough that runs the entire 30\" length of the hood, which is mis-named as the \"oil drain cup\". It's a trough, and it's awesome. Easily removable, easily cleaned.\n\nCONS:\nThe two built in LED lights are more blue than I prefer. I generally like warmer color hues.\n\nAnd that's it.\n\nThere is no reason to shop around. Buy this. Now.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3973, "id": 443798, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 530, "len_tokens": 610, "text": "Excellent - enough so that it actually motivated my lazy self to write a review here (I'm also ordering another package now so was here anyway)\n\nIve tried a few different types of filters made by other companies and none have been as good as this one. Some, while appearing well made, didn't work well or really at all with my machine. Others were cheaply made - thin and flimsy - and weren't worth the money spent for the time gotten out of them.\n\nThese are thick, sturdy and well constructed. All of which means they last longer than the average replacement designs. If youve previously tried a variety of others, youll notice how substantial these are as soon as you take them out of the package.\n\n--- Update ---\n\nWe run our humidifier 24/7 - probably around 22 hours a day on average, all week long.\nIts been 5 weeks now and this filter is still working. Not as good as the first few weeks but still good enough to not change yet.\n\nI use New York City tap water... not filtered and nothing added to the tank.\nI flip the filter every time I refill the tank - which is around 3 times a day considering the constant use.\nIf the outer layer of the filter feels dry when refilling, I soak the filter in cold water for a few minutes (this usually starts happening after a few weeks of use). Ive never had more that the tips or portions of the outermost layer get dry.\nOnce a week I soak the filter in a mix of water and vinegar - roughly 1/2 cup of vinegar and 6 cups water - for 15-20 mins. Then rinse gently to flush the vinegar.\nWhile soaking the filter I clean the machine tray - a quick scrub with soap and water, then a little bleach rinsed off thoroughly with cold water. The water tank too - soap and water, no bleach (make sure to clean the ring where the cap screws in, and the cap too).\nThe filter gets discolored with time, going from white to a light tan color, with a thin, slightly darker ring near each end - typical result of mineral deposits from what I can tell. I haven't seen anything like the dark and black mold issues people post pictures of online.\n\n--- Update Two ---\n\nIve seen some people comment about black mold forming on their filter within a week of use. That much, that fast should not happen in a machine that is clean.\n\nAssuming the tray and water container are being regularly cleaned... lift the top part of the machine off the water tray, flip it upside down, and take a look inside at the fan casing and motor. Black mold can form inside of the machine, and if this happens it will spread quickly to any filter you use - since it is already present and in close proximity to the filter. Wiping this area down will help prevent this - I used a tooth pick and disinfectant wipe to clean out the little grill at the center under the fan.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3974, "id": 444150, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 550, "len_tokens": 678, "text": "I bought the \"refurb\" one for $196 (shipped).  From the reviews I am seeing all mini-fridges, they are pretty much all hit and miss unless you go commercial.  I figured at $200 it was disposable if it just lasted a couple years.  Mine wasn't actually refurbed per say, but was a scratch and dent model.  It came with an inspection that said it was verified to work.  It has a good dent in the stainless metal frame around the front window.  I expected something like this as it stated somewhere in the ad to expect this on the refurbs.  I didn't take off 1 star because of that.\n\nActually I may look at taking the door frame off and see if I can roll out the dent to make it more presentable, but this is just for a gameroom so no worries either way.  I don't have a thermometer to put in the fridge yet to check the exact temp, but I will update the review when I do.  If you turn it on max cold, drinks seem comparably cold to my full fridge, maybe a tad cooler.  What I am taking a star off for is the noise and power draw.  I can easily hear this thing running across the house, although its the pitch that gets you, not the db.\n\nUpdate 1 - I was initially worried how cold beverages would get and how much it would have to run to get them there.  I would say it gets them cold enough for me at setting 6 (of 7).  At setting 7, drinks have that near freezing bite to them.  Thats definitely nice, but knocking it down a setting is sufficient for me, and will reduce wear and tear and electricity.  I only do bottles and I was able to fit 2 racks in the middle, plus the rack at the bottom that is immovable.  Longnecks fit perfect in the middle(6x5), pint cans and shorties at the top(6x5 if all bottles).  I do bottle water in the bottom rack(6x3).  Since water bottles are a bit squished in there at 6x3 you probably wouldn't have much luck fitting glass bottles in the space with this config.  Also, as I said before its loud.  Its not so much the dB of the sound as it is the pitch which seems to carry.  I can still easily hear it at night on the other end of the house.\n\nUpdate 2 - Had it for 8 months now and its still on the loud side, but mostly you can ignore it unless you are trying to sleep in the same room with it.  New problem has arisen.  I turned down the cold a notch to 5 from 6 for the fall and since the day I made the change the fridge has been making loud clunking noises.  At first I thought the ice on the coils was melting and dropping, but its not.  Its clearly some mechanical issue.  Its still working like a week or so later, but the noise this thing makes is crazy loud.  It sounds like someone is throwing a porcelain plate on concrete.  If I had to guess, I'd say its dying, so I don't expect it to last much longer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3975, "id": 444437, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 510, "len_tokens": 622, "text": "Just got my cooler a week ago and I'm very happy with it.  I suggest reading the other reviews as they helped guide me to selecting this product and were very helpful in describing some of the finer features that I was looking for.  Now that I've unpacked and used the unit for a week or so, I thought it might be helpful to share some things that weren't obvious from the product description or other reviews:\n\n1) The inside top of the unit slopes slightly from front to back, making it a bit less \"tall\" toward the back.  I'd guess you lose a 1/2 inch or maybe a bit more in height.  Not a lot, but enough that it might make you move your top rack down a notch.  Also, on the right-hand side of the roof, there is a small \"something\" sticking down in the back that takes another 1/2 inch or so.\n2) The door can swing fully open - there is no stop for it.  The first couple of times I opened it, I didn't hang on to it and it swung clear around and hit something sitting to the right of the unit.  Again, not a big deal, just keep in mind.\n3) As I read one other place, there is a small drip pan in the back of the unit that is not mentioned anywhere in the product description.  I haven't had the unit long enough to know whether it fills up, but have set myself a monthly reminder to check it.\n4) You lose roughly half your space in the bottom 1/4 of the unit.  This is the intrusion from the back where all the \"stuff\" is.  There is a half-depth shelf right around there that butts up against the top of the intrusion, so you can still use the full depth at that point if it's at the right height.  That was a nice feature.  Below that level though, you loose half your depth.  This really didn't impact me as I'm using that lower cavity for small, 100 calorie pop cans, mixers and the like.\n5) While apparent from the pictures, I didn't register with me that there is no digital temperature display with this unit, just a 1-10 wheel for cooling selection.  As I am using this as a beer fridge and want a particular temperature, I'm going to buy a small thermometer to put inside the unit as an aid in selecting the proper temperature.\n6) Minor note - the interior light does have an on/off switch.\n7) Lastly, it could just be me but I couldn't get the unit to be perfectly level from front to back.  Side to side was fine, but the front of my unit shows it is a bit high even with both front legs screwed in all the way.  This could be by design, but as one of those \"anal\" types, it was frustrating to not be able to get it perfectly level, lol.\n\nOverall, for the price, exactly what I was looking for.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3976, "id": 447027, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 526, "len_tokens": 660, "text": "As someone who works with precision instruments and requires NIST certificate calibrated by certified companies, I was interested to see how accurate these hygrometers were for home use.  NIST standard is basically what companies go by to have it calibrated to a known precision test equipment to insure their own equipment is in fact has correct readout and is not broken or giving false readings.  This could be anything from pressure meter, torque wrench, digital calipers and so on.  I tested using a known calibrated industrial hygrometer with a fast sample rate.\n\nThere are a lot of factors people are missing when they do a review on a consumer level hygrometer and why their review may or may not be accurate.  I'm not doubting their reviews but when I see a review that compares another product without stating how their 'other' equipment was calibrated and validated for their accuracy, no one can say for sure which is accurate.\n\nLike someone else mentioned, even the industrial hygrometers should be in its testing environment and acclimate before getting the actual reading.  With our hygrometer we use, because the unit travels from one station to another, 10-15 minutes is given to give a better reading.  If someone put this ThermoPro hygrometer with another and sees an instant reading, then chances are, it'll be all over the place.  It's more so if the unit came from an environment that was very humid and/or with a big swing in temperature than what he or she is trying to measure.\n\nKeep in mind, these inexpensive products unfortunately is not a product I would suggest if the environment has heavy swing in temperature and humidity that would affect their use.  Why?  These hygrometers sample rate isn't fast enough for certain application and will respond very slowly to changes in temperature and humidity.  If these were industrial hygrometers, you're looking at spending few hundred dollars for a handheld model.\n\nAnother example; a $400 digital industrial hygrometer we use have a sample rate of 1 second and that can be changed as well as measure the dew point.  This product wouldn't be bad as long as you don't have high expectation and just a general readout of your home's room or the garage as an example.  For the price, in my opinion, it's an excellent 'general' tool.  Our acceptance for humidity and temperature is no more than 2% for humidity and 2 degrees for temperature.\n\nIf you're looking to measure temperature and/or humidity that require precise measurement every time with faster response, you'll want to look at industrial hygrometer that can also be calibrated.  With the products we deal with, an non-calibrated equipment could give us false reading and possibly damage customer products.\n\nSo you have to ask yourself if this hygrometer meet your needs.  Either you simply want a general reading and don't care for sudden change in temperature, or you'll have to invest in a hygrometer that can be calibrated and certified.  Actual calibration of hygrometer isn't too expensive (under $100) and suggest you calibrate once a year.  Used hygrometer is fine as well as long as they're functioning and can be calibrated.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3977, "id": 450930, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 536, "len_tokens": 648, "text": "Summit SBC490\n\nI decided to replace the Haier HBF05EBSS a beer dispenser that was included in a recent home purchase.  Unfortunately, in my haste to defrost the self- defrosting unit that was caked with ice, I rupture the coolant line.  I decided to not fix the unit and instead upgrade to a better quality unit.\n\nAfter a fair amount of research, it appeared as though the Summit brand was an improvement in quality over the Haier.  I elected to go with the SBC490 which was a full size unit with the self-defrosting option, costing almost $300 more than a new Haier.\n\nTo say that I was totally disappointed with the Summit would be an understatement.  The product arrived in a pristine box with no dents or dings.  However, upon opening, the trim to the countertop was grossly damaged and was obviously known to whoever packaged the unit.  I was able to do a make-shift repair to the trim and was satisfied that the damaged area would not be seen as it was going under a bar.\n\nUpon investigating the unit more thoroughly to check for any other damage or missing parts, I realized that my new Summit SBC490 was the EXACT same unit as the Haier HBF05EBSS with only a different name badge.  I was so annoyed that I just paid $300 more for the same product I was replacing, but did not want to wait yet another 2 weeks to purchase a replacement.\n\nI also realized that in addition to the damaged trim, a leg was missing as well as the bracket that holds the CO2 tank.  As I still owned the exact same unit, I was able to salvage the leg, but elected to order the CO2 bracket.  When I went to install the CO2 bracket, the pre-drilled holes were not even threaded to accommodate the screws that were included with the unit.\n\nAnother disturbing item was the customer service I received from Summit.  I realized that my previous Haier had a left side door swing which was needed in the confined space where the unit was to be placed.  The Summit came with a right side door swing which would not work for me as I would never be able to open the door wide enough to get a keg in.  I contacted Summit to see how to change the door swing as it appeared the changeover could be done.  I was told by a Summit customer service representative, who seemed annoyed at the mere question, that the door could not be changed, period.  When I tried to explain that their unit was the same as the Haier unit, having an adjustable door swing and tried to ask further questions, the Summit representative became even more annoyed and was anxious to get off the phone to do other more important customer service stuff.\n\nI ultimately figured out how to change the door swing, by using the Haier unit as an example.  This is something Summit should provide.\n\nI just had to defrost the ice buildup this weekend after only a month of being in operation.\nMoral of the story. Dont buy a Summit SBC490 as you are merely getting a lessor quality Haier.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3978, "id": 451924, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 496, "len_tokens": 643, "text": "I recently got one of these ice makers and thought I'd toss out a few observations.  I haven't noticed any plastic or other smell or taste, but I got a factory refurb and that might have made the difference.  I don't know about the 33 pounds per day claim, but it does make a lot of ice and quickly.  To address some negative comments about this unit, keep in mind it's an ice maker, not a freezer.  It doesn't make clear, dense ice cubes.  If this is the kind of ice you're looking for, buy bagged ice at the store.  Don't buy this unit or any other \"portable\" ice maker. On the other hand, for the ice-o-phages out there, it's great chomping ice. After it's made, the ice does melt. If I turn it off when the ice bin is full, it takes 12 to 13 hours for all the ice to melt.  That's in a room at 77 - 78 degrees.  And it does clump while it's melting. But it's not a hard clump.  You can break it up by hand, no ice pick necessary.  As the ice melts, the water drips into the reservoir through three holes in the ice bin, and makes new ice.  One thing I do that I haven't seen in user reviews is use distilled water.  It is totally taste neutral and has no minerals to possibly clog up the works. It seems to make ice that's a bit denser than tap water. It's only 99 cents/gal(on sale this week for 87 cents), I also don't have to clean the unit as often.  Using the term portable for these kind of ice makers is kind of a stretch.  The Danby's footprint is 14 inches wide and 17.5 inches deep.  It is about 18 inches high.  If you are concerned about space, get out your yardstick and start measuring.  Heavy is relative. This unit weighs about 48 pounds.  I didn't have any trouble getting it out of the box and lifting it onto a 4 foot high shelf by myself and I'm 64. I really like the timer.  It lets me turn the unit off in the evening and set it to come on about the time I get up so I always have plenty of ice.  I've had the Danby for three weeks and so far, it's been doing what I wanted it to do. Unless it dies prematurely,  I'll give it five stars.\n\nI've had the Danby for almost two years and it's still churning out lots of ice.  I consider all of the above comments still valid.  The only criticism I'd make is that it's a bit noisy.  There's the whir of a fan during the freeze cycle and the occasional clatter of the ice being dumped.  I wouldn't want it in the same room as some quiet music but in a kitchen environment, it shouldn't be much of an issue.  I still give it five stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3979, "id": 451960, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 538, "len_tokens": 650, "text": "First, let me say that the icemaker has worked for the week or so since I installed it.\n\nInstallation was an adventure.  My GE refrigerator said that this was the correct model for retrofit, and it was.  There was an installation section in the refrigerator manual and installation instructions in the  booklet that came with the icemaker.  I needed both.  Even after reading both sets of instructions and \"walking\" through the procedure, there were both missing steps and ambiguities.\n\nParts: There were two different fill cups - one that came with the refrigerator and one that came with the icemaker.  Fortunately, it wasn't too hard to decide which to use.  Connecting the water valve to the incoming water line requires a nut and ferrule for the compression fitting.  These are cheap, so it's not clear why they are not included.  It's lucky that I've done some plumbing before or I would not have even known what to buy at the hardware store.\n\nInstructions: Both sets of pictures are poor and far too few.  For instance, there are indents in the refrigerator sheet metal for the water tubing from the wall and the tubing to the icemaker.  These indents are not labeled, but if you miss them, the access cover plate will crush the tubing.  Another example, there are two water tube inlets (again, one each with the refrigerator and the icemaker)- they look very different, but on closer inspection are actually equivalent.  There is too much leeway for location of the water line clamp (strain relief).  And the list goes on.\n\nIn all, it took about 4 hours for the installation, not including the time to head to the hardware store to buy the parts for the compression fitting.  Remember that the refrigerator is unplugged during the installation and the freezer is open part of the time.  It's a good idea to move the contents to another freezer if you have one.\n\nThe ice-making speed is very slow - about one cycle per hour.  That's seven ice cubes or so.\n\nThe ice bucket is just a bit tall, so you can't just remove it horizontally.  I don't know if this is intention or not, since you can reach in and grab a handful of cubes.  I think not, so this means loosening the screws that hold the icemaker to the inside panel of the freezer and raising the unit a bit.  This can be done, but I presume that eventually the weight of the unit and the vibration of the icemaking will result in the unit settling.\n\nFinally, the unit does make some noise, and the manuals warn you that this is normal.  There is the sound of water flowing into the icemaker (about a couple of seconds) and the sound of the ice cubes falling into the bucket.  This becomes less loud as the ice bucket fills, and of course it only happens once an hour.\n\nHaving said all this, we're still happy we bought this.  It really is nice not to have to keep filling ice cube trays and dripping water between the sink and the freezer.\n\nI hope to update this review after the icemaker has been in use for a few months.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3980, "id": 453197, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 496, "len_tokens": 629, "text": "When we remodeled the kitchen 3 years ago, my husband fell in love with this dishwasher.  Since there are only two of us living here, he figured it would be convenient and money saving to have the smaller drawer to wash on a regular basis.  In addition, the salesperson showed him that if you remove the racks from the drawer, you can pack the thing with ice and use it for chilling beer/drinks when you entertain.  You know men....that was a selling point for him.  I thought the thing was overpriced and wanted to go with something cheaper that had a longer reputation for being reliable.\n\nWell, three years later, I have been more than pleased with this dishwasher, and I have had to \"eat crow\" more than once that his pick actually worked out well.  We are fortunate (and I hope I'm not tempting the gods by writing this review) that we have had no problems with it.  I thoroughly understand the frustration of those who have.  But every product you buy has the potential for being a \"lemon.\"  I have spoken with people who bought top of the line Thermadore equipment and have had bad luck.\n\nI am conscientious about using BOTH drawers, but it is tempting to only use the top drawer over and over.....no stooping.  But I spread the \"work\" between the two motors and that way they should both \"die\" about the same time.  Anal, I know.  It's a bit different to load, but I got used to it quickly.  I like the removable utensil basket, as I often take it out to load special items, and you can carry it around to either set the table right from the DW or put utensils away.  My daughters DW has the utensil area in the door and it is very inconvenient.\n\nI use the recommended products and the rinse aid in the machine and it does a beautiful job on everything.  In fact, I stopped pre-washing the dishes because it does such a good job...I just wipe them off.  I wash dishes more frequently because we can fill up the drawer more quickly.  Am I saving money?  Probably not.\n\nDo we use it for icing drinks for parties?  Well, once!  I found that when people take the drinks out of it, they tend to drip all over the floor, and then foot traffic turns it into a dirty mess, so you are constantly wiping up during the party.  Not the fault of the dishwasher (maybe I should get new friends?).\n\nOh, also....my grandkids broke one of the brackets on a hanging rack this summer.  I went on Sears website, ordered a new one very cheaply and it was delivered in two days.  Very convenient and easy.  No hassle at all.\n\nOverpriced....yes.  Does it work?  Yes, for me it does.  Very well.  How long will it work well?  We're three years and counting.  Four stars instead of five because it's seriously OVERPRICED.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3981, "id": 453680, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 550, "len_tokens": 639, "text": "I am single and it takes so long to get a full load together for the large washing machines in my apartment building's laundry room that I can't separate whites and colors. I wanted a smaller machine so I could use less water and electricity, and do smaller loads.\n\nI have had this item in my tiny studio apartment kitchen for a year now. I do about 5 loads a month. It does a good job on laundry with a small amount of water and has all the features that large machines have, such as bleach and detergent dispensers, even a timer to start a delayed load. It has a soak cycle, a fast cycle, etc. and handles a regular laundry basket full of dry clothing or linens without crowding. The lint filters are easy to clean and the machine never malfunctions. The controls are easy to operate although I wish the default were for a \"large\" not \"medium\" size load.\n\nThe only problem I have had is that the drain hose only has one hose clamp, and the flange it attaches to is too short to attach another. This means, if the clamp happens to loosen up and let the hose loose, you will flood your downstairs neighbor's home and a whole lot of expensive repairs will be needed. The landlord will be angry. Therefore I check that hose clamp often to make sure the hose is on there nice and tight. It needs tightening about once a month.\n\nAlso, when my cousin helped me install it, we were mystified that the standard installation requires two water connections, one each for hot and cold water, although it is supposed to be a portable unit, getting water from the (singular) kitchen sink faucet, and draining into the sink (don't forget to remove the drain's strainer). We found a quick-connect fitting that allows the cold water hose to snap onto the faucet (only six trips to hardware stores to get this right) and threw away the extraneous hot water hose; this makes setting up for a load quick and easy. Hard to imagine using this portable unit in a spot with a regular two-faucet hookup. Maybe the second hose, etc. could be offered as a bonus parts kit for that situation.\n\nI also had problems with the casters. There are two casters one can install on the front legs. It would be easier to roll the thing up to the sink if the back legs had casters too, but I guess then the thing might try to run across the kitchen during a load? Wouldn't having brakes on the casters resolve that? Something for the engineers to take a look at, along with the glue on all the stickers it is covered with, which don't come off.\n\nOne nice thing is the top surface of the washer is pretty flat. I keep a big towel thrown over it and use it for drying dishes, etc. - it serves as useful counter space. A bonus.\n\nAll in all, a very nice thing to have in a small apartment, and, depending on how many quarters your laundromat requires, does not take that long to pay for itself, especially considering that it does not need much in the way of expensive laundry chemicals.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3982, "id": 453776, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 524, "len_tokens": 662, "text": "Our Amana Side-by-Side stopped cooling late in the afternoon the day before Thanksgiving.  We bought ice and stuffed the fridge, then rushed to shop before the stores closed.  This is not the way I like to shop.  I like to do research first. But because we must keep Insulin chilled but not frozen we didn't have the luxury of research time and Internet shopping.\n\nI knew I wanted this style because I love bottom freezers, it is easy to see items in the back, and it is energy efficient.\n\nNone of the stores we were able to get to before closing time carried this model.  I found that most brands had freezer drawers that were extremely difficult to open.  Some I couldn't open at all.\n\nI was worried about buying American because I knew Whirlpool had bought the companies and we once had a Whirlpool that was nothing but trouble.  Our son bought a bottom-freezer Amana after the company had been purchased by Whirlpool.  He said he was pleased with it, had had no problems, and was told when he bought it that Amana still makes the machine; Whirlpool only makes the visible exterior.\n\nI have recommended Amana to family and friends so the only question was could I open the drawer?  Yes!  The floor model was tight; the one on my new fridge is easier to open even when fully loaded.  The freezer has 2 upper drawers for easy access to the foods you use most frequently.  They slide.\n\nThe big surprise was inside the refrigerator section.  The left side has 6 special holders for soda or beer cans.  This saves a lot of shelf space.  The right door has a special place for 2 gallons of milk.  Shelves are adjustable.  There are 2 crisper drawers and a deli drawer.  To use the deli drawer you have to open both doors.  The lights are bright.  The water filter is up front so it's easy to replace.  It's large so it should last quite a while.  The fridge will tell you when the filter needs to be replaced.  There's an alarm to warn you the doors aren't closed.  It went off as we were loading the fridge.  It's loud enough to hear across the room but it doesn't blast you out of the house.\n\nThis model provides ice and water through the door.  You can select water only, cubes only, or both together.  The temperature control is also on the outside.  There is a child lock to prevent children and large dogs from playing with the water dispenser.  (Yes, dogs sometimes press their noses to it.  We have a friend who has a curious Great Dane.)\n\nThis refrigerator is quiet!  Amana is not known for quiet refrigerators, only good ones.  Insulation is great.  It hardly runs but maintains temperature perfectly.\n\nWhat you will miss are an egg container and a large ice container.  I miss the crushed ice my previous Amana had.  And I believe a side-by-side freezer holds more than this drawer.  Both my Amanas are 25 cubic feet total but I don't know the freezer measurements.\n\nThe exterior does not show fingerprints!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3983, "id": 453821, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 525, "len_tokens": 603, "text": "I bought this 18\" dishwasher to replace the Sears Kenmore of the same size I had for more than 20 years.  The small size is perfect for a family of two and I used it nearly daily.  The Miele is so quiet it is hard to even tell it is on if not for the lights and that is probably the biggest plus.  It cost eight times the price of what I paid for the Sears model so there should be some plus to it.  On the negative, it has already cracked on the top despite paying extra for the authorized Miele service man to come out and install it.  When we called on the crack we were told it wasn't covered and now the crack is all the way across the top and seems certain to turn down to the front panel.  It was less than a year when we saw the crack.  The Sears had no such thing, was metal on the edge, not plastic.  We did nothing to cause this; it was a weakness that gets worse with simply closing and opening the door.\n\nNow, the thing that makes me most miserable is the odd and not helpful layout of the two main trays.  I can only fit in half the glasses and cups I had with my old one.  This is layed out so oddly that it is only for plates or small plates and the lower level is nearly useless for bowls which hardly ever come out clean and I have to wash by hand.  The size is too tight for the dinner plates so I have to wash those by hand and if people try to help with dishes I always have to redo whatever they did as the dishes will hit the spinning wheel above and won't get clean unless the biggest ones are removed or set on an angle.  Most dishwashers have prongs upright that can be used for cups, plates, glasses or bowls as one wishes.  Not so these trays.  It was as if someone had an idea of what each must be used for and they do not have flexibiity for use to add more cups or dishes if it is plates only or vice versa.  I don't wash that many plates, especially since the dinner size won't fit, but I do wash many cups and glasses.  With this machine I have to run it half empty and still wash many of my glasses by hand because they don't fit in this ill suited tray design.  Who would guess to spend so much money thinking it was a 20 year purchase and to have it crack and be so inefficient?  I am going to look to see if I can buy a new kind of generic tray to replace these poor ones that have caused me to lose many glasses and cups and ceramic plates to chipping, something that never happened even once with the Sears.  No, NO, NO to Miele and the saddest thing is I bought two of them!  Yes, one for our second home at the same time.  It is so sad.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3984, "id": 454572, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 578, "len_tokens": 663, "text": "I have had FloodSafe hoses on both my washing machine and dishwasher for approximately 5 years. I have had no issues with leaks or having the FloodSafe valve shut off water flow under normal operation of both washer and dishwasher. Since I replace hoses as a precaution periodically (in my opinion a lifetime hose is probably more of a fantasy than reality) I decided to try testing the dishwasher hose. Now I admit that the test I performed does not represent a reconstruction of a burst hose scenario. Therefore, the reader must determine what value if any to place on my efforts. First, I attached the hose under my sink and placed the other end over a bucket. I opened the quarter turn shut off and the water flowed freely into the bucket. There was no restriction on the end of the hose. The next step was to cut off the end w/o the FloodSafe valve using an angle grinder, trying to get closer to a burst hose event. Back to the kitchen, again I attached the FloodSafe hose and opened the quater turn shut off. Again the water flowed freely. Needless to say there was no restriction on the flow of water.\nThe flaw with my test is that I really needed to cut off the end of the hose while it was attached to the shut off valve with shut off in the on position and the the other end being cut blocked off. However, working with electricity and water at the same time is not something I recommend to anyone. No doubt water would have been shooting everywhere. I believe FloodSafe may offer protection if there is a burst hose (which is very unlikely due to the stainless braid). However, if the leak starts off small and gets gradually larger, would FloodSafe actually prevent a flood? That is up to debate. I have my opinion, but I am not out to trash the reputation of a hose that worked w/o incident for approximately 5 years. But then again, I never had hose burst or even a small leak so I can't confirm that this hose is truly FloodSafe, a feature which sets it apart from ordinary hoses.\nAddendum:\nIt is likely that the activation of the Floodsafe feature requires water pressure (ie. an open shut off valve) and flow interuption at the other end when the burst occurs. By this I mean a typical operating scenario where the shut off is on, allowing water to flow and the dishwasher is not being used. Therefore, to repeat my  experiment again correcting any flaw previously made I tried a different tact, one that more closely resembles a normal burst hose under typical operating conditions. Here is what I did. I connected the FloodSafe hose to a garden hose spigot using an adapter. I clamped the opposite end with a vise grip pliers. I put the water on fully. No water was released from the hose. I then opened the vise grips and water flowed freely. I expected FloodSafe to shut off the water. It did not. Perhaps this was due to the age of my hose.\nMy conclusion is that the FloodSafe dishwasher hose is well made and is unlikely to leak after years of service. As far as the FloodSafe feature goes, it may provide a sense of added protection.  Whether that sense of added protection is warranted has not been proven to my satisfaction.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3985, "id": 455116, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 481, "len_tokens": 605, "text": "I used to swear by Venta Airwashers.  Now I swear _at_ them.  I owned one of their first models, the kind that plugged directly into the household outlet without using the \"wall wart\" transformer used by the new models.  The old version served me well for years, with only an occasional replacement of the clutch and the coupling between the clutch and the disk unit.  Eventually (after about fifteen years), the motor simply gave out...I suppose because of too much dust sucked into the works by the airflow.\n\nThe new version -- with the wall wart -- is a fright.  The motor is weak, so is the humidity output, and for some reason Venta has decided to make the new units \"idiot proof\" (which wasn't necessary: an obvious case of a solution in search of a problem) by adding a \"turn off when no water\" feature, which requires that passive electrical contacts run up the sides of the water tank and link with contacts in the cover.  All well and good, unless there is a little corrosion or lime deposite that breaks the contact (and if you have hard water, there is plenty of both).  From that undependable juncture, the ribbonlike, electrical linkage runs up to the motor, but will only complete the circuit if the outer covers are closed and projections on the cover press two (!) points on the ribbon to close the circuit.  Any corrosion or deposit (or warpage of the covers) will break the contact and turn your expensive humidifier into a lightweight ship anchor.  And there are so many \"idiot-proof\" interlocks on this system that any attempt to circumvent them (such as when the outside temperature is -10F, the inside humidity is falling like a rock, your musical instruments are about to explode...and the Airwasher refuses to work because of that speck of corrosion) will prove to be in vain.\n\nThe water treatment solution you add to the tank of the Airwasher creates a soap bubble effect between the multiple rotating disks in the tank, and the current of air blows through this \"bubble\", wafting the moisture out of the Airwasher and into the room.  Unfortunately, some of the soapy emulsion wafts along with the water, coating surfaces in the vicinity of the Airwasher with a dried, soapy residue that is very hard to clean off, and clinging to the inside of the fan housing and onto the fan blades in such a way that cleaning becomes a messy horror.  I was willing in the past to put up with the inconvenience, but with my expensive (and unfixable/unhackable) Airwashers giving up the ghost at the most inconvenient times (And just outside the warranty period!  Imagine that!), I have resolved to run them until they die (one has already given up the ghost) and replace them with less complex and much more dependable evaporative coolers.\n\nAirwashers!  Pah!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3986, "id": 455154, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 529, "len_tokens": 635, "text": "I think I would love this unit.  It has a huge tub and many options, however I can't be certain if I would love it as it has arrived broken!!  I, like other owners, had the unit arrive with a broken rod.  The item arrived late Monday and I inspected the outside of the item and down in the tub on Tuesday.  There were a couple of dings/dents and scratches, but I was so excited about the size and look of the unit, I thought I could definitely live with these cosmetic blemishes.\n\nThere was a terrible storm that week and I needed my father to help me hook it up, so we didn't get around to hooking it up until Friday after work.  The unit shipped in a box that lifts off the unit and the machine itself sits on a styrofoam base.  As he lifted it off of the styrofoam, we noticed a rather large piece of metal fall from the bottom of the unit.  That could have been the reason there was a dent that was pointing outward on the front (one of the blemishes I mentioned earlier).\n\nI called several times and never received an answer Customer Service (they operate Monday-Friday Pacific Standard Time).  On Monday, I emailed them.  They said that they would exchange the item, but that since I didn't report the damage within 24 hours, I would be responsible for shipping fees.  I already paid nearly $50 to have it shipped to my house broken, so I do not feel I should have to pay shipping on this item or a new replacement item.  There is no where in their policy that states that YOU ONLY HAVE 24 HOURS.  If I understand filing damage claims correctly, Fedex gives you 21 days, USPS gives you 60 days and Amazon and UPS give you 30 days... so if The Factory Depot is an Amazon reseller and ship through any of the above methods, then how do they get to make up (and not post) their own policy of 24 hours.\n\nIf you are like me and you are a single person or person with any physical disability, then do not buy from The Factory Depot unless you want to pay for shipping 2 or 3 times.  So, unless you know that you will be able to open and install the unit within 24 hours of delivery, I highly recommend that you DO NOT USE THE FACTORY DEPOT.  This is the first review I have ever written on Amazon and I'm quite certain that I've spent over a $1,000 on Amazon in the last 4-6 months, so I am only writing because I want to make people aware so others may protect themselves.\n\nI've been emailing The Factory Depot (this started 6 days ago) and I still don't have a return mailing label. I've contacted Amazon to make them aware of the issue and asked that they help me get the item returned (at no cost to me).  I'm hoping that they value me as a loyal Amazon Prime customer and make attempts to resolve this issue with The Factory Depot.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3987, "id": 456105, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 501, "len_tokens": 614, "text": "Any potential customers out there know what I mean when I say \"must have been designed by a man\"?  Well, this dishwasher looks good, and the ideas look really good on paper.  But for anyone who actually uses it ... you'll be on your knees plenty.  NOT DESIGNED BY ANYONE WHO USES IT!!!  The whole \"dishwasher salt\" thing ... first it's impossible to get \"dishwasher salt\" unless you order it online.  But the really exasperating part (which drove me to make my very first review here on Amazon) is that the dishwasher does not bother to communicate to you that the salt you have already added has been exhausted, until you need to add more salt ... which is when you try to start the dishwasher!!!  What that means to me is that the dishwasher is full of dishes (especially the hefty bottom rack), and I'm pressing the button for it to run.  But no ... it doesn't run.  It took me a while to realize that the reason it doesn't run is that the tiny, tiny little, little light on the dashboard says to \"add salt\".  So once you have figured that out, if the bottom rack is full (as it usually is when you try to run the dishwasher), you are going to have to perform gymnastics suitable for the Olympics to wash your dishes.  If you can get the heavy-loaded bottom rack out as far as it will roll, you will then have to squat or bend over uncomfortably and (hopefully evading the dinner plates already loaded into position) utilize the Popeye-spinach forearm of your dominant hand to un-screw the plastic cover of the salt dispenser.  (For the first time, you will undoubtedly need to consult your Bosch Operating Instructions to find out where the salt dispenser is, so be sure they are handy ... as well as the \"dishwasher salt\" that you will have had to order online.)  Once you have managed to remove the plastic cover, you will need a funnel (Oh, sorry ... you don't have one?  Well, better get one!) so you can squat or bend over again and pour the precious \"dishwasher salt\" from some vessel into the tiny hole where the \"dishwasher salt\" goes.  OR ELSE YOU CANNOT WASH ANOTHER DISH ... EVER!!!  This happens most often when dinner guests are expected to arrive within an hour.  The really, really sucky thing for me is that my glasses still come out with spots on them, so often I have to wash them again by hand and dry them to remove the spots.  I would very much like to meet the person(s) who designed this high-end dishwasher.  I promise that, if you get in touch with me, I will pour you the cocktail or glass of wine of your choosing.  I would just like to know whether you have ever used this machine, and if so, how often ... and what curse words do you use when you have to \"add salt\".", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3988, "id": 456346, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 521, "len_tokens": 649, "text": "This commercial grade fridge is actually pretty nice, but first the important news that any potential buyer (or current new owner) should know! This fridge has a 12-hour defrost cycle which is not well documented and it may catch you by surprise, as you might think your fridge is broken...  So the issue is that NOWHERE in the documentation does it say that it's expected that the fridge will WARM up during this defrost cycle every 12 hours!  During each defrost cycle the fridge goes from a very stable 38F, then rises to 60F after about 30 minutes, then kicks on again to cool back down.  The product docs/specs only mention that it has a 12 hour auto-defrost cycle, period... Again, NO mention about the fact that it is typical for the fridge to get THAT warm!  Also beware that during this defrost cycle the fridge will become quite humid and everything in it gets moist with condensation.  I have validated this information with Frigidaire/Electrolux commercial product customer service and asked that they update their product materials to clearly state this behavior to customers.  Also let it be known, that this is still considered a \"food safe\" fridge, as it does conform to FSIS standards (which baffles me, as warming, cooling and humidifying food is more NOT food safe than anything else).  In any case, since it does this, I would NOT recommend this fridge for extended food storage.  I use it strictly for drinks, which it is excellent for.\n\nNow onto the good things about this fridge.  It is very sleek, stylish, well built, and it's HUUUUUGE on the inside, so you have TONS of wide open and easy to access storage.  The shelves are simple to adjust, and I put some of the racks at a slight angle so when a soda is removed from a 12-can \"fridge pack\" style box the next one rolls forward for a nice \"auto-dispensing\" feel.  The door seals itself nicely when closed, and if you level it properly, you'll never accidentally have it slightly open, unless you don't even get it close to closed of course.  Also, it isn't all that loud for being a commercial unit, but it is certainly much louder than a standard fridge, so I wouldn't keep this in the kitchen or anywhere else where you would like it to be quiet (I keep mine in the garage so I never hear it in the house).  The insulation seems quite good as well, since it holds a stable 38F even on sweltering hot summer days when the garage can heat up to 90F or higher for long periods of time.\n\nIf I would have known about the details of the auto-defrost cycle and that I couldn't keep food in here long term (or dry age steaks, which was what I originally wanted to do with this fridge), I would have looked elsewhere.  At least I got this at a great price since it was a floor model, but for just a drink fridge, I would have been pretty angry if I had paid full MSRP for this.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3989, "id": 456748, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 434, "len_tokens": 644, "text": "I started out to buy a top rated Amana&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Amana-Easy-Reach-Plus-Series-ABL1922FES-18-6-cu-ft-Freestanding-Bottom-Freezer-Refrigerator-with-4-Glass-Shelves-Adjustable-Fresh-Food-Door-Buckets-and-Deli-Drawer-Stainless-Steel-Left-Hinge-Door/dp/B000GZ2EI0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Amana Easy Reach Plus Series ABL1922FES 18.6 cu. ft. Freestanding Bottom-Freezer Refrigerator with 4 Glass Shelves, Adjustable Fresh Food Door Buckets and Deli Drawer: Stainless Steel/Left Hinge Door</a>&nbsp;but it turns out that this is basically the same machine with a few nicer touches, like see-through bins. They are made by the same company.  This fridge is pleasant to look at and does not jut out much beyond our counters, so it fits nicely in the kitchen.  The inside has some moveable/customizable elements, and it is worth experimenting with them to get the most of the space (we were used to a larger machine). For instance, you may not want to take up shelf space with the bulky egg holder, and the wine rack is best placed away from the area where you want to store large containers.  The dual controls come factory set at \"4\" and that has worked well for us: Ice cream is firm but not a block of ice, and the food in the fridge is the right temp.  Some negatives:  The freezer drawer is rather hard to open--it takes enough heft that before we loaded up with food we actually moved the refrigerator when we pulled on the drawer.  The ice maker has a large bin that takes up a lot of freezer space. It makes a huge amount of ice before shutting off, more than most people would have use for. Finally a word about the stainless steel front: It is delicate. The manufacturer warns you not to use paper towels, because they will scratch it!  It has a visible horizontal grain that will be marred by practically anything, including ketchup.  This makes no sense in a kitchen, and a stainless steel appliance should have the qualities we are used to in stainless steel.  I've only had this refrigerator for a couple of weeks, so my 4 stars are based on its performance to date and on its appealing exterior. Our last refrigerator (a Kenmore) had its sealed system fail after only 6 years, so it remains to be seen if this Maytag will be any more long lived or trouble free. It has only a one year warranty, so we certainly hope that that isn't a portent.\nUpdate in July of 2010:  This fridge has worked perfectly and without a problem since we got it.  It doesn't use a lot of electricity, and with all of the ice being produced by the problem-free ice maker we ended up using more ice than we used to.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3990, "id": 456892, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 573, "len_tokens": 678, "text": "I thought I would do this as a service. I bought the 48inch outdoor grill with wok, with warming drawer, with side burners, with rotisserie, with subzero ice maker, with sub zero fridge in an integrated assembly for use in a semi-covered outdoor BBQ setup in Maui. I think the cost was over $20k and it was installed by the Thermador factory representatives. Everything was installed 5 years ago.  I'll just go through a quick litany of issues. The fridge has had to be repaired twice, the IceMaker has had to have fans installed even though the specifications say that it can be installed with minimum clearance. The ice maker usually produces soggy ice - right near melting, and this is during winter months. We have had service people - also authorized work on it at least 7 times and we are presently having to put in more ducting and fans. The igniters have failed three times. The rotisserie has failed twice requiring about $300 in repair each time. The warming drawer needed complete replacement in the 2nd year and all of the fittings and electrical were deeply rusted and corroded. On top of this, I have never liked using it as it seemed uncontrollably hot. This is an LP conversion from the factory and the proper orifices were installed. When we brought up the problem to the installer servicer he first tried to solve it, but then said \"they are all like this - there is no control\". Last year I finally started to see if I could solve the problem and found that the continuous \"infinity\" adjustment controls on the front actually had no control - only on and off. They are market Off -Lite - Hi - and Lo. But none of the 3 zone controls adjusted the flame at all. We figured that something had been improperly installed. Integrated as part of this on the right side are two side burners. They work well, with continuous adjustment, as you would expect. The same with the Wok. I started probing more deeply and went back to the original manual for this model as well as two others in the series and it said that all burners have infinitely adjustable control. I finally went to the installers manual and saw the phrase: \"LP options in the 48\" inch version have no control\". This was obviously discovered after the units were designed as whatever the problem that arose that kept them from offering this feature in the actual deliveries of their product - EVEN THOUGH THEIR INSTRUCTION MANUAL DESCRIBED IT AS A FEATURE - a feature that makes the entire BBQ useless if reasonable control of heat is important in your cooking. As I have gathered more information trying to figure out what to do next, I have learned that on Maui the authorized service men are recommending to people that they DO NOT BUY THERMADOR/BOSCH. It has been 5 years since I purchased this, so I don't know if I have any ability to claim damages, but it was never capable of fitness for use, so possibly there is a chance at some recovery, but my intent now is to warn people away from this brand. I have been doing some research and see that these are not isolated problems and that there are many brands superior to Thermador, some at quite a savings. - Just using this as a forum.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3991, "id": 456935, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 561, "len_tokens": 667, "text": "I wanted to go to gas cooking in our otherwise electric home, which in my rural area means propane. I selected this range based on known reliability, not the burner output ratings with propane. If you will be using propane, know that burner calculated BTU ratings will be less with propane than with natural gas, and the amount of drop varies among makers. (You can find the figures on a plaque on the ranges but rarely on maker websites.) GE is NOT the big winner in published BTU drop. But I figured that I would be okay with a range having a power burner. I was sort of right. Under propane, the power burner is really not showing apparent great power with the pans I use. It's fine, just not super power. I would say it's a little slower to boil water than the electric was. However, all that is, for me, compensated by the great control with gas. And it's not a wimpy burner at all. I haven't done a lot of experimentation, but I suspect my encapsulated bottom pans might do better on an electric burner, while a plain bottom might be ideal for rapid professional type pan work on gas.\n\nOn the other hand, the oven is very fast to preheat and more even than my old electric oven, which is nice.  Unless the food is pretty close to the door, you're not going to see it easily through the smallish window. At least at 6\"3\" I can't. I had heard that gas was a superior heat for baking. At least with bread, the artisan baguettes I bake three times a week, it's been true. I think it's a moister heat, which produces a good crust. (I have no use for convection ovens, which I take to be gimmicks and costly.)\n\nAfter reading about many difficulties with black tops, I wanted a SS top. It's nice, but remember that stainless steel is soft, and use nothing abrasive. This model has a finely brushed steel finish, and abrasives can easily leave a marked area. Clean up promptly. We have a largely stainless steel kitchen, and this range has a very impressive presence. I would say it looks \"massive.\" The propane crew encountered no problems doing the conversion and told me GE is among the easier conversions.\n\nNote to new propane users: Many gas supply line sets come with a flare fitting adapter for one end and a combination flare fitting adapter/safety device for the other. This device, which is intended to shut down if something gives way on the stove side of the valve, is apparently designed for natural gas. Propane runs at migher pressure and therefore higher volume, and the safety thought it was seeing a broken line and was trying to shut down, which looked to the leak test instrument like a slow leak, since it was almost competely shut down but still filling the range lines. We had to replace with a plain fitting to get a good leak test.\n\nI can say nothing bad about this range. I knew about the propane power drop. I was told my the experienced propane crew that they knew this model to sometimes warp the door in the high heat of self cleaning, preventing opening. I cannot say or say if that it still valid. I don't use self-clean.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3992, "id": 457042, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 542, "len_tokens": 639, "text": "Let me preface this by saying that I did not buy this range through Amazon. I bought it through a high-end appliance store, which is even more disappointing. How any qualified salesperson can sell this range to someone and still sleep at night is beyond me.\n\nThe disappointment started Day 1 of using this range. It has an absolutely terrible chemical smell that off-gassed for two weeks. We had to keep all of the windows in the house open to try to rid our home of the smell (thank goodness it was summer  note to self: never buy a new range in the winter!). I felt a whole-body response to this, including watery eyes. I guess it didn't really matter much that we used no VOC paint and other environmentally friendly elements in our new kitchen just to install this toxic piece of garbage. Most large corporations have no regard for the health impacts to consumers of their products. I will forever find that sad and inexcusable. Upon doing research, the KitchenAid website and manual say to remove pet birds from the house because of the very off-gassing that we experienced.\n\nAnother thing we noticed on Day 1 was the awful shrill high-pitched sound of the exhaust fan. It runs constantly when the oven is on. The store that we purchased it through sent a repairman and he told us the fan noise was perfectly normal. A company that produces whisper-quiet dishwashers created an exhaust fan that can be heard throughout the house? We had a guest staying with us and when I turned on the oven, she rushed up from the DOWNSTAIRS guest bedroom to ask what the terrible sound was. KitchenAid should be sued for the terrible quality and poor design of this range.\n\nThe oven takes 20-30 minutes to heat up to 350 degrees and higher. The heat on the burners is inconsistent and so is cooking in the oven.\n\nI really cannot think of one thing we like about this range. We run our overhead fan when using the oven so that we can try to mask the shrill sound of the exhaust fan. We won't be hosting any gatherings where we would have to have the oven on for an extended period of time  including Thanksgiving. And this is from someone who used to love to slow-roast in the oven. You can remodel your kitchen, but if you end up with garbage appliances, it ends up being a room of the house you don't enjoy being in.\n\nNegative reviews can often be difficult because my question is always  NOW WHAT? It seems so many appliances on the market disappoint and fail customers who invest a great deal of money and trust in the manufacturers. My only advice would be to research non-slide-in ranges. Weve heard that the exhaust fan is so loud because the controls are on the front and overheat easily. We also anticipate this to be the reason this unit eventually fails 2-4 years from purchase (knock-on-wood). Also, weve heard that most, if not all, electric ranges have these issues, so perhaps researching gas ranges would be better as well. We have friends with gas ranges and all are whisper quiet. Good luck!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3993, "id": 457151, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 513, "len_tokens": 631, "text": "We've bought three Kitchenaid products over the years and have been dissatisfied with them all and with Kitchenaid's \"service.\" (I use that term loosely.) As with all Kitchenaid products, the ovens look nice. However, they both arrived uniformly 25 degrees below what the readout says, although from time to time they heat at the correct temp. Kitchenaid customer service advises that they expect their ovens not necessarily to be correctly calibrated so they provide a feature by which you are to calibrate the ovens yourself by adding or subtracting temps in 10-degree increments through a function on the electronic panel at the top of the ovens. Adding 30 degrees to each oven (you can't add 25) makes them more or less accurate, assuming that they don't go back to being accurate again without a recalibration. If they stay steady, it's something I could live with, but there's more: the top oven also doubles as a convection oven and it works accurately. This means the following: You typically set convection ovens for 25 degrees less than a recipe calls for, but since the oven has to be calibrated to add 30 degrees so that the regularly functioning oven setting will be accurate (i.e., not the convection oven setting), if I set the convection setting on the oven to 25 degrees lower than the temp in the recipe, it will actually be 30 degrees higher than what the readout says. K-A's solution to this problem is not to send a repairperson out to fix the oven (which is still under warranty) but to tell me that I should always remember to set my convection oven FIFTY degrees lower than the temperature in the recipe. And of course, I'll need to keep a thermometer in each oven at all times in case the regularly functioning ovens go back to being accurate.\n\nAnd that's not all. They've designed the oven so that if you use the self-cleaning feature without taking the racks out, the racks are ruined and you need to buy new racks, a mistake I made just once in 11 months. Fair enough--my error. However, even their authorized parts dealer is unable to find a replacement for the fancier rack they provide for one oven. (One of the racks slides out on its own rails.) This for an oven that's less than a year old. Also note that, since you can't leave the racks in the oven, you have to clean them by hand, without steel wool, which can be quite difficult at times.\n\nIf you're going to spend this kind of money on an appliance, you'd certainly do better to buy it from some other manufacturer even if you have to pay a little more. If you don't mind the kind of problems I've described, you might as well spend less and still buy it from some other manufacturer. I give it two stars, not one, only because it does look nice. I can't explain why we've bought even three of K-A's products--I guess we just keep forgetting--but this is definitely the last one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3994, "id": 457156, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 528, "len_tokens": 603, "text": "This machine does not deserve even 1 star! I don't often write a scathing review, but after 3 years with this machine, it absolutely deserves it.\n\nLet's talk about washing first - the LG designer that wrote the program for washing cycles has apparently never seen or used a washing machine before. The machine has all sorts of extra back-and-forth gyrations between cycles, and with fairly long pauses - enough so that it adds about 10 minutes to what should be the normal washing time. The drain pump is called for whether it's needed or not and this goes on constantly. But the absolute worst of the worst is the spin cycle. The machine will not do well at all with small loads, so don't even bother, but that's not the main issue. The machine cannot achieve any kind of a reasonable balance and makes several tries - the amount of time can exceed 20 minutes or even stop all together with a time-out error. In short, if the machine was a person, that person is terrified of spinning.\n\nNext is doing the drying - the dryer spin does not tumble fast enough to remove wrinkles from permanent press stuff. There is no user accessible lint trap, so it gets trapped in the internal hot air ducts and eventually plugs them. These ducts need to be cleaned at least twice a year, otherwise it burns a hole into the composite plastic duct and the back half of the drum chamber, creating a severe fire hazard.\n\nFortunately, I purchased an extended warranty when I bought the machine. As of writing this review, repairs have exceeded the original price of the machine. Even the 10-year warrantied motor did not last more than 2 years before the bearings wore out. The front panel circuit has been replaced twice. The drum and drum chamber (2 halves) have been replaced. The most recent failure was the 110 VAC power supply filter and relay; it melted due to inadequate cooling and heat sinking. Currently, the pump sounds as if it is on its last legs. I only hope it goes out before my extended warranty ends because the machine has to be completely dismantled to replace it.\n\nI bought this machine because I have always had good luck with LG appliances, and it truth, the quality of parts used in this machine is good. What destroys this machine is an extremely poor design. Washing and drying in the same unit calls for some pretty exotic design choices and are not met in this unit. The electronics need to be protected better from the intense internal heat generated during the drying cycle. As a matter of fact, it would be better to give up the condensation drying and just use a fan and heating element - the clothes might actually get dry.\n\nAt this point, you might be asking how much I use the machine - two medium-sized loads per week, and using the dryer on only one of them.\n\nDo yourself a favor and pass on buying this machine - it is nothing but trouble due to poor design, especially considering its initial cost.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3995, "id": 457212, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 455, "len_tokens": 652, "text": "May 28, 2011 Update...I've had this refrigerator for a nearly two years now and my opinion of it has gone down since I originally placed this review (which follows immed.)  It's because, after trying to \"mess with it\" to get the freezer to be colder, it's hopeless.  It won't do it.  In spite of the fact that now the fridge part has warmed and it's set to max cold.  I give it two stars.  I would save up money and get a GE instead.  My orig. review follows: There are very few refrigerators capable of fitting in an RV so I was happy to find this Whirlpool.  It was slightly larger than the GE fridge that it was replacing, but the price was about $175 less.  I like that there are glass shelves, a well lit interior, molded door compartments, wide latitude temperature control, recessed handles built into the door, a large vegetable drawer, and for me, a smooth exterior paint finish.  One person complained about the refrigerator being loud while running, but I can barely hear the compressor at all.  (Mine is surrounded by cabinetry.)  When I'm standing in front of the door, I can hear the interior fan blowing air in the freezer compartment during the cooling cycle, but it is not too loud to be annoying. On the negative side, the refrigerator could have a little more interior room.  The interior arrangement seems a little bulky; There is a fairly large cage around the light that eats up space. The glass shelves could be beefed up in thickness a little; they bend under a full load. After using it for a few weeks, I've learned that the freezer does not make ice cream hard.  I put a thermometer in to check it and it seems to stay at 10 degrees (not zero like it should) even though the control is set to the max cold!  This is a disappointment as it also means that other foods will not keep as long in the freezer and ice will not cool drinks as well.  I'm deducting one star for this.  (My older little GE would freeze exceptionally well...BELOW zero!)  If the Amazon system would allow deducting 1/2 star I would knock that off, too.  After using the refrigerator for several weeks, I find that the recessed door handles are awkward to use.  It would have been a lot better for them to be put on the sides of the door (they would be vertical) instead of on the top (and bottom of freezer door) where they are horizontal.  It's just awkward to have to place your hand that way.&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-ET0MSRXTQ-9-7-cu-ft-Top-Freezer-Refrigerator-White-on-White/dp/B0012Q1ZS2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool : ET0MSRXTQ 9.7 cu. ft. Top-Freezer Refrigerator - White on White</a>", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3996, "id": 457331, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 557, "len_tokens": 656, "text": "I was a bit worried when I read some of the reviews for this washer.  I have owned this exact model in white with the see-through lid for a little over a month.  The first weekend after it was delivered, we had company and I was stunned when I realized I could easily fit 3 complete sets of queen bed sheets in one load.  Just to see if the comments about things not getting clean were true, I added a white wash cloth that had been used to wipe off grassy, dirty feet after mowing the lawn and then allowed to dry.  It came out immaculate using cold water and no bleach. Since this is new technology, it pays to READ THE INSTRUCTION MANUAL before you use it.  Sheets need to be placed in the washer a certain way.  I have washed blankets, coats, hand washables, and a queen comforter in addition to the normal washing and had great results each time.  I've never had an unbalanced load.  I love the feature where you can clean the washer itself with the bleach cycle.  I am diligent about letting my washing machines remain open after a load so they can air out, but there was always that mildew smell once they got a bit of age on them.  I had wanted an Energy Star front load washer but just did not have enough space in my small laundry room.  This set (I bought the dryer also)takes up a bit more space front to back than my old Kenmore pair, but is the only top load Energy Star rated washer.  I find the washer very quiet and you do need the alarm to know when it's actually finished with a load.  My laundry room is located right off the kitchen and I can hear the alarm but not the washer running.  I'm short (5\"1\") and have no trouble reaching to the bottom of the tub to retrieve the wet clothes after a load is finished. My one minor complaint is that I occasionally like to use Woolite Dark for some of my nice black washable items.  Since it's not an HE detergent, I can't use it in this machine and I don't think there is any special dark only HE detergent on the market.  I had only planned to buy a new washer, but realized that the large capacity that this washer could hold would overwhelm my large capacity Kenmore dryer.  In retrospect, I'm glad I decided to buy the pair.  Another reviewer mentioned using a surge suppressor to protect the electronic touch pads and I think this is a good idea.  When my old washer died, I asked our repairman for his input and he said that if you get an electronic model to get an extended warranty of some sort because the electronic boards are very expensive to replace and they are the first things to go.  I haven't had to deal with Whirlpool customer service but would suggest going to repairclinicdotcom to find parts for just about any appliance you can imagine.  I got a large rebate when I bought my washer and will be getting a dryer rack for the dryer (which didn't come with the dryer)as part of my rebate.  I'm very satisfied with this washer after a month of continuous use.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 3997, "id": 458379, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 569, "len_tokens": 665, "text": "Our house was built 2 years ago.  We selected the GE profile series based on our own previous experience. We had it in our previous home and experience no problems in a little over five years. Now we now we made the wrong choice.  The fridge's control panel failed only a year and a half later.  Vital functions like cold water, Ice and temperature control & monitoring among others just stopped working.  We called GE and they dispatched a technician the very next week. After an extremely quick check the tech said he needed to replace the complete control panel. A $300 fix.  After the repair, we asked the technician how could the control panel had failed only after 18 months of light use, but he quickly replied the failure was caused by a leak.  This didn't sound right to us, so we immediately asked the technician where did the leak came from because we didn't recall seeing any water leaks coming out of our fridge. He said it was probably an internal leak.  We continued to push the issue by saying that the leak that caused the problem may still be there and we did not want the new control panel to fail again. Furthermore, we complained about the quality of their products since the GE Profile stove top's raising fan and the GE Profile microwave rotating table had also failed after just 14 months of use. That was another $350 fix.  The technician seem bothered by our complains and his only response was that we should probably purchase an extended warranty for all three products which ranged between $400 for 1 year and $1,100 for 3 years. The he arrogantly added that those were discounted prices and only good until 1:00 PM that day if we called him to place directly. It was already 10:30am.  What a piece of work....  As it is obvious, we declined.  A second problem we reported to that same technician and for which we are still waiting a solution is that the freezer walls in our fridge seems to have expanded. The racks are now smaller than the spaces they fit in and therefore loose.  Our \"proficient\" GE technician said it was probably due to the low temperatures inside the freezer. Of course we replied that was nonsense since freezers are supposed to be designed to work and withstand such temperatures. He swiftly said that he was going to check the problem online and get back with us.  That was 6 weeks ago and we haven't heard back from him....  GE used to mean quality.  My grandma used to praise her GE refrigerator which worked for over 27 years without a significant repair and that was finally replaced for a more energy efficient unit. However, in our case three different brand new GE profile series appliances failing between 14 and 18 months after installation tells me things have changed for the worst.  I mean no disrespect, but I never thought I will be buying from a Korean appliance manufacturer. Anyway, for us it now seems to be the ONLY way to go.  Their appliances simply have much better reviews, reliability reports and user ratings than their American counterparts.  We would rather buy from an American manufacturer (Even if the product is not made in the US like the GE Profile), but unfortunately we have no choice.  It is a sad reality.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3998, "id": 458996, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 526, "len_tokens": 642, "text": "I didn't buy this pump through Amazon, but wanted to leave some tips for others who had the same problem as me.\n\nSamsung WF328AAW /XAA, SAMSUNG DC96-01414A Drain Pump\nFirst, yes, this is a stupid design for a washer where a loose clasp can get stuck in the drain pump rendering it completely useless. I tried calling Samsung and they were zero help. I called a couple of local repair shops and they all said it'd take weeks to get a replacement pump, oh and the repair cost would be ~$250. $100 for the part and ~$150 for the repair. I also asked them how difficult it'd be and they said it's very complicated and you have to take the whole top of the washer off, etc etc. Not sure if he was confusing my model with another, but this certainly wasn't the case.\n\n1) First, pull the plug on the machine and get access to the back panel. There are 2 screws holding a large access panel in place. Once the panel comes off you can see the drain pump in plain site and very accessible.\n\n2) Make sure you have a bunch of towels. What I did was I took the drain pipe and pulled it down as flat as possible so it drains out as much water (even without pumping). If you have something that can pump the water out, even better. Short of either, you'll need to have a bunch of towels ready.\n\n3) The drain pump has an inlet, an outlet (water, not power), a power connector and 3 large screws. I first took off the outlet hose and took off the clamp (squeeze with your hand). Water will leak if you didn't pump it out. I then took off the inlet hose (again, water will leak, even more then before). I then took off the power. The three screws are very tight. You'll need either a big handle phillips screw driver or you can use a socket wrench.\n\n4) Once you take everything off, the pump comes right out. Look inside and see if anything was stuck. In my case, an undergarment clasp jammed it. I removed it and put the pump back in and plugged everything back.\n\nHere's a word of warning, when you clasp the hoses back, make sure the hose is all the way in and the clasps are in the right spot. Screw it back in and plug the power in. There's a flap that makes the power connector access a bit easier. You just took the flap off. You should also test the washer before closing up the back and moving the washer back into place. Because in my case, my clasps weren't on right and it started leaking.\n\nPro tip...wear gloves and put a towel over the exposed metal running across the bottom of the access panel. It's sharp. I speak from experience.\n\nTotal time, 90 mins. But if I had to do it again, probably less than 30...and if I didn't have to clean up the blood from my wrist, probably 20.\n\nGood luck and hope this saves someone $800!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 3999, "id": 461013, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 446, "len_tokens": 635, "text": "Love it. Unboxed and ready to go in 10 min. Packaging was very thorough and secure.. impressive.\nAs compared to others I researched / suggestions:\n\n* The outflow hose (dirty water) it attached to the same tubing mechanism as the inflow (clean water) hose. That entire mechanism attaches to the faucet. No separate outflow hose flopping around in the sink as some portable dishwashers have.\n\n* Suggests the option of a plumber installation.  You don't need it. I am female and hardest part was lifting it out of the box. Pliers may be needed to unscrew the faucet spout. Depends on the faucet. My faucet has a one arm handle for both hot and cold water. Unscrewed the existing faucet spout with pliers. The washer in the dishwasher mounting had to be removed so that the threads on the faucet fit further into the housing. Minimal dripping. Plumbers tape (not sure exact name) fixed the drip.\n\n* Position tubing over the drain. Less chance of splashing.\n\n* This is sold by Compact Appliances.  Check out their website for a video of the appliance. Amazon has the best price.\n\n* Tape. Make sure you remove it all. You can't miss it.. greenish in color. It is also on the filter tray.. in front of the revolving arm. I almost missed it.\n\n* It washed 2 loads back to back on P1 setting - Intense wash. Perfect. No food remants. I want a really hot water wash.. and this is it.\n\n* Jet dry in the rinsing agent compartment on the door - screw cap. You won't use much and worth it. Dishes dry faster - completely dry when removed. No spots. I used a liquid dishwashing detergent.\n\n* Small kitchen and counter space is valuable. Purchased the&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Seville-Classics-SHE18321-Stainless-Steel-Kitchen-Workstation/dp/B000GWED7I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Seville Classics SHE18321 Stainless Steel Kitchen Workstation</a>&nbsp;and it fits perfectly on the top. I can wheel it to the sink and wheel it back out of the way.\n\n* Noise.. yes there is noise. There is noise with a tv, radio, hair dryer, etc. I read a review for another portable dishwasher and the person returned it because of noise. It's a dishwasher, it's an appliance. Family members have Bosch built in dishwashers that cost over $1000, and you don't hear them. Well, that is not what I'm buying. I am buying convenience and efficiency. Washing machine is louder. Would I run it before going to bed?  Definitely.\n\nBottom line... Read the instructions.  Use DISHWASHING detergent. Don't use use dish soap.\n\nIf I have a problem.. I will update this review right away. Hope this helps. These were things I considered, but couldn't find the answers. Enjoy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4000, "id": 462078, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 546, "len_tokens": 655, "text": "We have had this washer for over a year now and it's been non-functioning off and on for almost 8 months. We bought local, and even so, getting the repair is near impossible. 2 different repairmen have worked on it. The first just plain said call someone else after the first round. The second finally told us that we have to call the Maytag people direct. First, we had a problem with cycles no longer working. So the circuitry was going. Finally got a repairman (we DID buy the extended warrantee thankfully). It took quite a while to get a new board. First the guy came to get the code from the problem, then ordered new board. New board worked partially for maybe 3 weeks, but even so, without the circulator pump which is used the first 10 minutes of the cycle to \"inject\" the soap by spinning through the clothes. Then the cycles started going again. This repairman would not come back. The warrantee people found a new repairman and we are now repeating the process. He explained that there was a recall on the boards, but no way to tell if their were still some in distribution so no guarantee that we wouldn't get another faulty board, but what to do?\n\nThe new board was installed and washer did work partially again, but still without the circulator pump. The repairman went in search of a new part, and a month later said he was told it wasn't available anymore, and we needed to call Maytag again. In the meantime we could still use the washer but only on the Bulky cycle because that one skips the inject phase of the soap dispersal. That lasted maybe 3 weeks, and all of a sudden, the washer no longer DRAINS and has stopped mid cycle half full of water.\n\nI think I have spent almost as much at the laundry mat now than if I'd just bought a new washer when it first went on the fritz. We keep getting the run-around and delays from Maytag who now have Promised either to find parts or replace the washer. I'm worry that even if they do come up with parts, they will last only so long.\n\nAside from the tech problems not getting fixed, when it did work, I was only marginally satisfied. We bought primarily for capacity, but it's sacrificing other things:\n1) I agree with the other reviewer, this was develops a very bad mildew smell. If you go on vacation for a couple of weeks, you literally have to dump in cleaner or just plain bleach and RUN as soon as you turn on the clean cycle or risk throwing up on the machine.\n2) Twists and mangles clothes. Even when carefully placing and aligning clothes, it is NOT gentle as the ads claim.\n3) Does not clean well when at capacity. You can only fill it half full if you have heavy soiled or stained clothes. We have a farm and clothes get DIRTY. Grease stains do not come out. My old washer (Westinghouse) did not have any problem with barn clothes. That machine worked faithfully for over 20 years. I'm sorry I no longer live with that machine.\n\nWE GOT A LEMON.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4001, "id": 462932, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 546, "len_tokens": 675, "text": "These stoves are known to have limited insulation and heat shielding causing the outside of the range to get hot to the touch and I can attest to this.  Also these models make tons of noise (expansion and contraction) when heating up and cooling down.  The single worst thing though is the computer control jobby!  It must have been designed by lab monkeys or something.  I have had 3 service calls and have a 4th scheduled right now all for the same issue in less than two months.  Apparently moisture and/or condensation gets inside the control module and causes it to throw an error code.  This turns out to be nice business for the local Factory Repair company since they get to bill Whirlppol every time they come out here; but it is an unbelieveable nightmare for me.  After the warmup countdown the stove almost always throws an F2 (stuck key) error code.  Meaning that I then have to unplug and power down the unit for at least 2 minutes.  Anything less and it locks you out of the control panel entirely.  While it is powered down this unit is useless as the electronic ignition won't work.  Keeping the clock set is pointless as well seeing as how you are going to have to shut it down nearly every time you use the oven.  The last time the repair guy was here he mentioned the moisture issue.  This seems to be a situation that Whirlpool knows about and has done nothing to fix.\n\nUpdate!  Finally got a repairman who had dealt with this issue before and knew how to fix.  Apparently the way the exhuast goes therre is an inherent risk of overheating the control panel.  He manually bent the exhaust pipe or whatever it is called.  Now when you run the oven the stovetop gets hot enough to melt anything plastic left on the range.....However, it know works like it should have from the factory.  It appears that the design has a correctable flaw and that Whirlpool would rather spend money and waste the time of customers by making you deal with repeat repair calls for an issue they can and should fix before sale or at the very least on the first visit.\n\nThis stove is also a beauty to look at.  Keeping it clean is difficult with the super gloss finish.  After a scrub down with your cleanser and sponge of choice use a solution made from any common degreaser spray and dawn....A little goes a long way and then polish the range with a dishcloth.  This is the only way I have found to keep it gleaming.\n\nUPDATE 03/19/2011\nThis thing started throwing the SAME F2 code again!  This things is a lemon!  I have owned it less than 4 months and It still does the same thing after 5 0r 6 repair visits!!!  I am filing BBB, Attorney General and Federal Trade Commission complaints!  The Whirlpool company has now paid out more in repair costs than I paid for the range and I still don't have a properly functioning stove!\n\nSTAY away from Whirlpool Appliances!  Look at other consumer sites and you will see that they are apparently slapping the Whirlpool nameplate on a lot of poorly designed and manufactured garbage!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4002, "id": 463325, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 537, "len_tokens": 642, "text": "I cannot talk about the double oven style, but I recently purchased the single wall oven.  The first one installed did not work at all.  None of the controls would operate properly.  When I would set the control to broil, I would get proof.  If I tried to bake, I got nothing.  After GE insisting on trying to fix it by replacing 4 parts, they finally came to the same conclusion - the oven did not work.  They did replace it within a short period of time.\n\nThe second oven I received, appeared to work properly. I was able to bake a cheesecake, rum cake, noodle kogel and banana bread pudding without a problem - note all small pan items.  When I tried to bake cookies, I discovered a design flaw.  My cookie sheets took over almost the complete rack.  Should be no problem, right?  Not right.  The first batch I tried baking on the \"bake\" setting.  My cooking time was 17 minutes.  When I went to pull out my cookies, the ones in the upper left corner were browned (beyond where they should be), but the other cookies were not even slightly browned.  I had to remove the pan or have burnt cookies in the back.  I tried another batch using \"convection bake multi rack\".  The results were even worse.  The cookies in the back on both sides were now burning, there was a little color on the outside edges of those on both sides of the oven and a touch along the outside edge of the cookies in the front,but the middle remained very undercooked. The 1st GE tech replaced the broiler unit after noticing that the left side was brighter and on more than the rest of the unit and noting that the temperature was hotter in the back.  I tried baking again after this change.  The results were the same.  The cookies in the back would burn while the ones in the middle were not done.  Another tech and another confirmation that the back was hotter than the rest of the oven, this time it was determined that it was at least 25 degrees hotter.  I figured out that the fan, which is located in the center of the back of the oven, was drawing the air in and then heated air was being pushed out two elongated vents on either side of it straight up the sides of the oven.  This air is at least 25 degrees hotter than the set temperature.  My other ovens do not shoot the air straight forward as this one does and I have no problem baking cookies or anything in a larger pan.  I advised GE consumer relations about the problem and they say \"the oven works as designed\".  They will not admit there is a problem or offer a solution other than to send out another repair company to come to the same conclusion.  By the way, none of the techs or the consumer relations person cook very much and none baked.\n\nMy conclusion is - if you are a baker, do NOT buy this oven.  If you never cook anything in a larger pan, then the oven may be very nice for you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4003, "id": 464237, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 562, "len_tokens": 658, "text": "Since you're paying a lot for a little fridge like this, it ought to work right. Unfortunately that is not what happens with this model. My advice is to avoid it if you have a better option, or be sure to get an extended service contract. These can be purchased at any time.\n\nPoor Design:\n\n* The doors typically pop back open a little when you close them with a push, and the door alarm will not sound if this happens.\n\n* The water dispenser is in a terrible location, as is the icemaker. They get in the way, and both are more trouble than they are worth.\n\n* The plastic cover for the deli tray attaches to plastic pegs to crate a hinge. These pegs get stressed and break pretty easily, just from regular use. The deli cover will start popping loose and then the pegs break.\n\nKnown Water/Ice problems:\n\n* Food in the back of the fridge routinely freezes even with the internal thermostat set at 38 degrees F. I've found other Kitchenaid fridge owners mentioning this problem online. One suggested solution is to not use the icemaker, but that hasn't worked for me. Items at the back of the fridge tend to freeze.\n\n* Worse, after a year of use the drain system clogged and iced up, which requires significant effort or a professional to fix. The condenser is constantly removing humidity to a drain that terminates in a pan under the fridge where an evaporator (heater) is supposed to disperse it into the outside/room air. If the drain line clogs it will ice up, and then the newly draining water will pool in the bottom of the freezer. You may not notice this until there is a large sheet of ice at the bottom of the freezer and incoming drain water is going over the ice and out the freezer door onto your floor. This isn't all that obvious, so like me the first thing you might notice is your wood floor warping and sinking under one of the front feet of the fridge. To clear the drain everything has to be removed and the fridge shut down to de-ice. Then you can snake the drain line or flush it with air or water. If the icing resumes, you probably have a broken evaporator.\n\nI had this icing problem just as our 1 year warranty was expiring. Fortunately it still covered us, and we bought additional 5 year coverage. I'm adjusting my rating up to 3 stars since the problem was not too severe, but finding out it's a common problem -- and in the first year -- seems to indicate an engineering fault.\n\nConclusion:\n\nAfter a year and a half of ownership requiring service for repairs, I'm revising my rating up to 2 stars. Repairs took care of everything but the tendency for food in the back of the fridge to freeze, although a certified Kitchenaid repairman hoped that adjusting the doors and seal would help. It's possible the front door seals are simply inadequate or there is another problem causing the freezing inside the fridge at a 38 degree temperature setting. Either way, it and the other things mentioned above seem to be engineering faults that are common to this model. It is serviceable with luck and care, but I do not like or recommend it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4004, "id": 464466, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 502, "len_tokens": 630, "text": "I am writing due to the piece of crap Cabrio we purchased exactly 4 years ago this week:\nThis was the review I wrote after having this piece of crap one month:\nI bought the Cabrio on 10/9/06 and by 10/23/06 it was not working properly. I contacted Whirlpool on 11/9/06 and they informed me that they needed to send a repairman out. It has several problems. The load is out of balance (UL) or I get an error \"F51\" every single time I try to wash a load. My husband and I are the only ones in our household so the machine is not abused (By teenagers etc). The repairman was at our house for 3 1/2 hours on 11/14/06. He ordered a wiring harness, a computer board and a censor for this 1 MONTH OLD MACHINE. I called Whirlpool in frustation simply asking them to take this LEMON back. They offered nothing and they were quite rude in the process. They said my only option was to have my machine repaired....and so the circle begins.\nOur last set was a Maytag and we had the set (still are using the dryer) for over 12 years. Boy how we regret going to Whirlpool. Please take my advice and SAVE YOUR MONEY. I would hate for anyone to go through what Whirlpool has put us through.\nBTW...my BRAND NEW machine is sitting idle until the repairman can come out IN A WEEK (for another 3 1/2 hours) to put in these parts that he HOPES will work.\nUPDATE:\nIt is now exactly 4 years later and the only reason I suffer with this machine is due to the fact we PAID SOOOO MUCH MONEY FOR IT!!\nThe front is now rusted out!!! YES, RUSTED OUT!! And, it takes me about a day to wash ONE LOAD of Laundry...I get an \"F1\" (I believe it should be FU) about 4 times at the beginning of a load and then when it goes to rinse I get an F1 again approximately 3 times!!  Sometimes I have to start from scratch with an entirely different setting.\nThe only satisfaction I've gotten over the past 4 years is writing horrible reviews on your product and making sure everyone I talk to about laundry (and it's a lot more times than any normal person should have to talk about laundry!!) how they should NEVER spend a dime on a whirlpool!\nThis is an absolute piece of crap and I cannot believe you have never done a thing to rectify this situation!!\nSo sad that you could have and should have taken care of this FOUR YEARS Ago!\nWhen my husband calls your useless 800 number he just gets sent around in a big circle and then is told you are CLOSED.\nI will never buy another Whirl pool product as long as I live!!\nPlease do something about this piece of crap taking up space in my laundry room and BEEPING at me ALL DAY LONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4005, "id": 464875, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 547, "len_tokens": 696, "text": "The Amana AER5830VAW Self-Cleaning Electric Range has been an excellent appliance so far.  This is the first time I've owned an Amana, but I've owned/used several Whirlpool, Maytag, and GE ranges.  Of course, these days many are all manufactured by one or two companies.  The AER5830VAW has a good combination of aesthetic design and useful features.\n\nI consider the look and design of this range to have a bit of a modern feel with classic details.  The glass ceramic cooktop is sleek and inviting.  The top of the range with the knobs and control center is a bit more classic.  It does have an easy touch digital control center for timers, oven temperature, etc.  The front of the unit is fairly standard, but I really like the extra-large oven window.  That combined with a bright interior light gives you a great view of what is cooking without having to open the door.\n\nThe glass ceramic cooktop is great.  So far, it's been easy to maintain and clean.  The heating elements heat up very quickly.  The AER5830VAW includes two 6\" and two 10\" elements with a good amount of spacing in-between them.  If you are used to the standard heating coil ranges it will take a little getting used to, but I've really been enjoying the quick heating elements of the Amana and more even cooking.\n\nThe oven itself seems spacious and includes two racks.  It has 4.8 cubic feet, which is standard or a little larger I believe, but it feels like it has plenty of room.  While the self-cleaning feature isn't really anything new, it is nice to have and is adjustable based on how much cleaning needs to be done.  Again, the large viewing window is definitely a nice addition.  I felt like the oven was a little slow to preheat, but that could have just been my excitement (guess I should remember that a watched pot never boils).  It has timed bake, as well as the ability to do a delay bake.  The custom broil option is also nice, allowing you to broil delicate items at a lower heat.  The oven door is nice and sturdy as well.\n\nOne downside is the storage drawer on the bottom.  I've noticed that just about every manufacturer has started to neglect the storage drawer, using just a small flimsy system.  Storage compared to my older range was probably cut in half, or at least it feels that way.  Upon opening the drawer it doesn't stay on track as well and isn't really smooth at all.  Again, this seems to be a trend with ranges today and not just this Amana model.\n\nOverall, the Amana AER5830VAW is a nice looking unit that provides some great features.  I'd give the unit five stars on the most important features: the oven and cooking surface.  I really hesitated on whether to give it four stars or five stars overall.  While the storage drawer isn't vital to the operation of the range, it did give it a bit of a cheap feel.  Had the drawer been sturdier and the design a bit more modern I would have gone five stars all the way.  But overall, I don't think you could go wrong with this range for its features and cooking ability.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4006, "id": 465132, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 502, "len_tokens": 630, "text": "I am writing due to the piece of crap Cabrio we purchased exactly 4 years ago this week:\nThis was the review I wrote after having this piece of crap one month:\nI bought the Cabrio on 10/9/06 and by 10/23/06 it was not working properly. I contacted Whirlpool on 11/9/06 and they informed me that they needed to send a repairman out. It has several problems. The load is out of balance (UL) or I get an error \"F51\" every single time I try to wash a load. My husband and I are the only ones in our household so the machine is not abused (By teenagers etc). The repairman was at our house for 3 1/2 hours on 11/14/06. He ordered a wiring harness, a computer board and a censor for this 1 MONTH OLD MACHINE. I called Whirlpool in frustation simply asking them to take this LEMON back. They offered nothing and they were quite rude in the process. They said my only option was to have my machine repaired....and so the circle begins.\nOur last set was a Maytag and we had the set (still are using the dryer) for over 12 years. Boy how we regret going to Whirlpool. Please take my advice and SAVE YOUR MONEY. I would hate for anyone to go through what Whirlpool has put us through.\nBTW...my BRAND NEW machine is sitting idle until the repairman can come out IN A WEEK (for another 3 1/2 hours) to put in these parts that he HOPES will work.\nUPDATE:\nIt is now exactly 4 years later and the only reason I suffer with this machine is due to the fact we PAID SOOOO MUCH MONEY FOR IT!!\nThe front is now rusted out!!! YES, RUSTED OUT!! And, it takes me about a day to wash ONE LOAD of Laundry...I get an \"F1\" (I believe it should be FU) about 4 times at the beginning of a load and then when it goes to rinse I get an F1 again approximately 3 times!!  Sometimes I have to start from scratch with an entirely different setting.\nThe only satisfaction I've gotten over the past 4 years is writing horrible reviews on your product and making sure everyone I talk to about laundry (and it's a lot more times than any normal person should have to talk about laundry!!) how they should NEVER spend a dime on a whirlpool!\nThis is an absolute piece of crap and I cannot believe you have never done a thing to rectify this situation!!\nSo sad that you could have and should have taken care of this FOUR YEARS Ago!\nWhen my husband calls your useless 800 number he just gets sent around in a big circle and then is told you are CLOSED.\nI will never buy another Whirl pool product as long as I live!!\nPlease do something about this piece of crap taking up space in my laundry room and BEEPING at me ALL DAY LONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4007, "id": 465352, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 491, "len_tokens": 640, "text": "Several of my frequently used CONTROL PANEL \"dimple\" buttons had their outer plastic covering/labeling crack off.  They mechanically still worked but you could not read the button's function.\n\nEasy to replace, but you must ******DISCONNECT ELECTRIC POWER AT BREAKER!******  The power that feeds the control panel and the door switch are exposed when disassembling.\n\n- This part is WHITE, don't make the mistake of ordering wrong color.  They come in BLACK (W10083050) & BISQUE (W10083049)\n\nDisassembling:\nThere were instructions on how to slightly modify the control panel circuit \"tabs\", if you have a 2005 or older model.  I did not need to do this.  There were NO other instructions.  Here's what I did to replace new panel.\n\n*******FIRST THING!!!! OPEN THE BREAKER FEEDING THE DISHWASHER AT YOUR POWER PANEL**********\n\n1 - Remove only the six (6) upper door screws .  Two (2) each @ door latch, top left & right (Torx size T-15)\n2 - Remove control panel from door only enough to expose door latch switch and circuit board cover.\n3 - Remove the circuit board cover - Release the three (3) latches to remove cover.\n4 - Remove the door latch switch - Release the two (2) tabs to remove switch. (I did this with my fingers but a small screwdriver can also be used for removing all tabs.)\n5 - Remove the door handle cover.  This is about a 4\" narrow piece of plastic located underneath where the door latch switch assembly was located on the old panel.  YOU WILL NEED TO REUSE THIS PART ON THE NEW PANEL.  There is no need to by a new one.\n6 - Remove the circuit board cover - Release the three (3) latches to remove cover.\n7 - Remove the circuit board - Release the two (2) latches at the circuit board which are located toward the door latch end of circuit board.  Be careful not to damage ribbon tape pin connector on the circuit board.  Slide circuit board out of \"old\" pane.  Hold the old panel and circuit board closely until disconnecting pin connector\n8 - Disconnect pin connector by sliding away from circuit board.  I used my finger nail to GENTLY pry apart and then gently pull apart.\n\nRe-installation:\n1 - Modify tabs if needed per enclosed directions.  I did not need to perform this.\n2 - Re-install old door latch handle onto new panel.\n3 - Re-install door latch switch.\n4 - Reconnect ribbon tab to pins.  There are slots on the circuit board that coincide to tabs on the connector to guide the connector into position.\n5 - Re-install circuit board.\n6 - Re-install circuit board cover.\n7 - Install the six (6) screws.  Do not over-tighten because the connections could break.\n8 - Close in the breaker at your power panel.\n9 - Check for proper operation.\n\nI hope this info helps.\n\nThis is an easy DIY-er repair but you are working with electrical.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4008, "id": 466125, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 476, "len_tokens": 606, "text": "I am writing this review three years later because we are still upset we bought this unit.  Sure I save a few bucks buying this online, but the headaches were not worth it.\nThe oven broke the first time we used it (broken ignition lighter).  Good news was that it was covered and repaired it rather quickly. However, at the same time I complained about the burners not looking like they are were emitting a high enough flame and not heating fast enough.  Guy told me \"no, that's normal\".  After several more calls they sent the guy out again.  He blamed the new kitchen contractor / installer now and said we weren't getting enough natural gas to the unit.  Call the the kitchen guy back who tested everything and narrowed it down to the range/over.  Finally after demanding answers over a couple of weeks it turns out they sold me a natural gas oven that was set up for propane.  Not sure why or if it was previously sold, but that's why the burners weren't allowing enough natural gas through.  Each and every of the six  burners needed to be retro fitted back to a gas assembly.  Oh the parts.... back ordered from Italy they told me.  From the time I had it installed to the time it actually worked; it took months.  The whole time getting the run around from some shifty sounding guy in Brooklyn with a Philadelphia phone number.  That was the seller HCCost. While they did eventually fix the problem (at no cost to me); the whole thing was sketchy.  Fast forward three years later and the burner assemblies never seem to sit on the range properly and click all the time.  Every time we clean the range I need to take 10-15 mins to align the burner assemblies because the moved somehow and constantly click click click trying to ignite.  If one is off kilter; they all click click click endlessly.  Even after you shut the burners off.  While the unit is nice and big and looks nice; it was a bad purchase for us.\nOrdered on October 9, 2014\nDelivered on October 16, 2014\nInstalled on December 19, 2014\nFirst use was December 24, 2014\nFirst repair visit January 22, 2015\nSecond repair visit January 26, 2015\nAbout 10 phone calls and emails in February and finally I had to make threats using MasterCard , Amazon and Better Business Bureau.\nMarch 26, 2015 told parts are in and they can schedule me for repair.\nApril 2, 2015 I was told they would be out that week.\nApril 7, 2015 Range finally repaired and operational.\nWould you buy from this over ..................?  The manufacturer Adco was completely \"blow off the customer\" attitude the whole time.  Looking back I can't believe I was as patient with the situation as I was.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4009, "id": 466150, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 515, "len_tokens": 656, "text": "this review is mostly about the repair service I've recently received from Bertazzoni, but also for the range itself, to the extent that my older range is the same as the current model.  I bought a house that came with the 2002 version of this Bertazzoni range.  Back in 2002, Bertazzoni sold what is now called its \"Master\" line under the brand name \"La Germania\", not Bertazzoni, but that was just a naming/marketing thing they did for a year or two.  In 2013 I got very good service, and was able to find the correct parts for my eleven year old \"La Germania\" range, but because of the name confusion (\"La Germania\") I had to email Bertazzoni directly in Italy at Service@Bertazzoni.com, rather then starting with the normal Bertazzoni service network in the US.  They bent over backwards to help me get my range fixed, and I can't praise their service enough.\n\nI love the 5 burner arrangement because I get a very high output capable burner (up to 15,000 btu) but without needing to have space for a 48\" range.  The large burner has flame in a small ring around the inside, and also a larger ring further out, so heat is delivered to the bottom of the pan much more evenly than typical burners that have flame only in a ring around the outside.\n\nThe range top and burners are very easy to clean because there are no gaps for junk to fall between.  Usually I just wipe the stainless steel, but when I need to clean the round burner heads (where the flame comes out) that's also easy (they just lift off).\n\nThe whole thing is built solidly, and designed simply, so it's reliable.  My oven thermostat needed to be replaced after eleven years, but the part is still available, and only 120 bucks (very reasonable for the most complicated part on the thing).  I've never broken a knob, or had any plastic parts break (it's all steel).  It's simple design is a plus for me because of reliability, but if you want fancy electronic oven controls, timers, etc. you might think it's a minus.\n\nIt's beautiful.  I'm more of a function over form guy, but if I cared a lot about how my range looked, I'd still be very happy with this one, it really is beautiful.  I like that nothing about it looks cheap.  It looks/is solid and high quality.\n\nI can cook on it easily, clean it easily, and it is reliable; for me that's 95% of what a range is supposed to do.  It's not perfect, but I find its flaws to be minor.  The oven door gets a little hotter than I like when baking at high temperature.  The oven is wider than I need (so maybe burns more gas than a smaller oven would require) and isn't as tall as most ovens I've used.  I've never needed it to be taller, but it could be a problem some day, so check the dimensions and be sure you're okay with the oven height.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4010, "id": 466594, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 563, "len_tokens": 624, "text": "We bought this dryer from a local independent appliance store with a matching washing machine. This is a good old fashioned dryer that works beautifully. It replaced a similar 20 year old Maytag that had started screeching. The installers hooked it up and set it up to run for 30 minutes to burn off a coating that was on it when it arrived. The instructions said to wipe off the coating so I did that too but I'm not sure if that was necessary.\n\nWe got this dryer along with the Speed Queen AWN542 washing machine. So far, we have been impressed with both machines. This version of the dryer is a lot like the most basic dryer but adds a knob that controls a warning buzzer with adjustable sound levels and a LIGHT inside the dryer - which is really cool. There is no moisture sensor but the temperature sensor seems to figure out how to dry the clothes well enough. If anything, it errs on the side of drying a bit too long so I usually set it to \"Less Dry\". No problems so far. Compared to our old Maytag dryer, the Speed Queen seems bigger but it might just seem bigger because of the light and the bigger door opening.\n\nWe were looking for a solid top loading machine but the lower priced Whirlpool clone machines all had the same light weight doors/ door handles and lint traps that pull out of the top of the machine and make a mess on the top of the dryer. The Speed Queen feels and looks a lot more substantial than the low end dryers. It seems like a simple thing, but the lint trap is set into the bottom of the door opening with a small plastic grid to hold the lint in the compartment until you are ready to scoop the lint out. The design doesn't allow lint to get inside the cabinet of the dryer itself. We had our old dryer repaired once and the inside of the dryer cabinet, under and behind the dryer drum was full of dryer lint that had accumulated over the years. I think that lint is what eventually contributed to the demise of the old dryer. The Speed Queen lint trap design is much better because you just scoop out the lint without pulling the lint trap screen out. I don't think much lint can get under/ behind the dryer drum.\n\nThe dryer light comes on like a refrigerator light. It probably isn't essential but it's very nice to be able to see in there. The door opening is very large so it's very easy to fish around and find your favorite socks or whatever before the rest of the load is finished drying. I expect my college age daughter will enjoy this feature when she comes home for the holidays.\n\nI also ordered the optional dryer rack from an online appliance supply company. This option is standard on the higher spec Speed Queen dryer but our appliance store didn't have that version in stock. The shelf fits nicely from front to back and the dryer drum spins around it. I've always wanted one of these for drying shoes or low temp drying of sweaters and delicates. I haven't tried the rack yet but it is well made and fits in the dryer perfectly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4011, "id": 468142, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 524, "len_tokens": 610, "text": "I moved into a small apartment and a Haier unit was installed. I was so excited to live a life without counting quarters and trips to the laundromat. Until. After approx 3 months during a dry cycle I heard a strange ping and smelled smoke. The machine was dead. It wouldn't even turn on. My landlord had a technician out twice to try to repair it to no avail. He also contacted Haier to try to get replacement parts and was unsuccessful. Eventually after months of fruitless attempts to repair the unit my landlord purchased a new Haier. A brand new Haier washer/dryer arrives! Yay! Three months later it stops drying clothes. Completely. Not damp, not slightly wet but absolutely sopping wet. The lint trap also fills to overflowing with water as I found out the hard way with a flooded floor. This time I took the reins on getting the unit repaired as it was still under it's one year warranty. After multiple calls to Haier I finally arranged for a technician to come out to look at the unit. He admitted that he had no idea how to fix it and left. Another 3 hour call to Haier and two weeks later a second technician came out. He pulled out some lint, moved a hose or two and the unit STILL did not work. So another 3 hour call to Haier got a third technician out and he deemed the unit unrepairable. At this point I called Haier again to request a replacement unit. I called at least twice a week for over two months and each time was told they had lost the paperwork or the previous representative had filed the information had done so incorrectly. It was so unbelievably terrible and unprofessional each phone call either had me in tears or drinking heavily. Then they requested I overnight ship a signed affidavit stating the machine didn't work and another copy of the bar code (from the back of a 300 pound machine). So $40 later that is sent to them. Once again I call and call and they claimed to not have received it. Then another two weeks later when I call they had miraculously had the paperwork the whole time and the hold up was the shipping company contacting me to arrange delivery of the new unit. How promising. Another two weeks. No call from the shipping company. More calls to Haier and more being told I needed to wait for the shipping company. Then several days later I get a voicemail from Haier saying that they had discontinued the unit and they aren't replacing it. They will send a refund check instead. Oh and they won't offer a full refund either. Only 80% since the unit had been \"used\". That was a month ago and I still have not received a check. So it is now many many months after my Haier washer/dryer stopped working. I do not have a new unit and I do not have a refund. Please save yourself the misery of dealing with an incompetent company and an inferior product. Anything but Haier.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4012, "id": 468396, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 506, "len_tokens": 650, "text": "This is a really basic stove, which is what I like.  I actually had a nearly identical model in white, but it was from the year 2000 and really in bad shape.  Our house has the old-school 32\" cutout, so this was my only option (until we remodel in the future) besided the ceramic/glass top one.  Installation was ridiculously easy, just lift the old one out, drop this one in, connect the wires. There are wire spring hold downs included to keep it snug.\nThe burners are standard for this type of stove. The small ones are 1250 watts, the big ones are 2100.  I think they perform just fine; I'm not in cooking race, and I don't pay attention to any extra time it takes (extra 30 seconds or whatever) to boil water or heat a pan.  Now if you need more heat, the common replacement elements available at most home improvement stores are 1500 watts and 2600 watts.\nQuality is on par with an inexpensive simple stove. The knobs are plastic, but thick and easy to grasp. They turn smoothly and have a nice 'snap' when they are rotated to the Off position.  Heat control is good, I went through about 20 steps of the knob and every position gave me slightly more heat, so I'm not sure what the complaints are about.  One minor gripe is that the Off position is at 9 o'clock, not 12 o'clock like you find on most stoves.  But you get used to it.\nThe top is real stainless steel, not painted, not coated.  Other reviewers who said it was just a \"stainless steel finish\" are just wrong, or blind. The drip pans are the typical chrome plated steel, and of course they will eventually rust, that's why they are removable. The markings on the control panel are simply silk screened, and if you scrub them they will come off.  You can scour the top if needed, but of course it will scratch.\nI'm not sure what all the \"thin metal\" complaints are about.  This is a low-end stove, and of course it's going to be sheet metal.  When mounted properly, it does not sag.  I've put 4 normal sized pots of food on the burners, and there is no significant bending.  You can get out your micrometer and measure the deflection, but it's not much; anything will bend with weight applied.  The metal on this stove is the same thickness as the one it replaced with a manufacture date of 2000.\nThe burners all sit flat, as do the drip pans.  The top itself is flat.  Again, I'm not sure what people are doing, but the stove itself is fine.  And of course you have to know how to install the burners, seat them all the way, or they will stick up.  And you have to know how to adjust the sockets so the burners sit flat.\nIn short, it's a good low end stove, very functional, and about the only choice for this oddball size cutout.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4013, "id": 468601, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 598, "len_tokens": 663, "text": "On November 23rd I had called LG because my french door refrigerator had stopped cooling a few days earlier. I was told that since it was past the 1 year full warranty I would have to pay for the labor but the parts would be covered. So they charged me $350 and said I would get a call in 24 hours to schedule service. a few days later I got a call and scheduled a repairman to come out a week later.\n\nWhen the repairmen came out he examined the fridge and said that they compressor and closed cooling system would have to be replaced and that he would have to order parts. A week and a half later he came back to repair the fridge which last for about 6 days and then completely stopped cooling again. On December 29th I called LG and explained that my fridge wasn't working and they told me that they would set up an appointment to have someone come out. I asked them if they could get the parts out quickly since this would be the second time they would have to fix it but the LG rep told me that the do not do expedited shipping for anybody and that I would have to wait. The repairman came out on January 3rd and said that they compressor may have been bad and that he would have to order a new one.\n\nIt is now November 26th (almost a month since the repairman came out) and after leaving messages with the repairman that didn't get returnedI called LG to find out what was happening. after waiting on hold for 45 minutes I finally spoke with a customer service representative who said she would call the repairman to see what was happening. when she got back on the line she said that she spoke with the repair company and was told that they do have someone who could repair closed cooling system refrigerators and that they never bothered to call me and tell me this.\n\nThe LG rep told me that the repairmen was going to file a claim with LG and that they would have to refund LG for the money they were paid for the repair. I asked the rep if they were going to send out another repair person and they said that they would have to be refunded first and that the person at the repair company said they would do it in 24-48 hours. I then asked the LG rep what would happen if they did not call LG back and refund them, the rep told me she was told they would do it in 24-48 hours. I asked them again \"What happens if they don't do it?\" and the rep did not give me an answer. so basically, even though I did nothing wrong I have to wait and hope that the repair person refunds them, while I get nothing for the $350 I paid 2 months ago. And since the fridge still needs to be repaired I expect that it will take another week or two for a repairman to come out (big IF on that on) and then another couple weeks for parts to come in since LG won't help out getting it done quickly.\n\nI expect that I will have to wait another month to get my refrigerator serviced and that it will be 3 months of not having a fridge. LG was more than happy to take my money but they could care less about actually following through with their customers.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4014, "id": 468686, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 459, "len_tokens": 693, "text": "24JUN11: FINAL SAMSUNG SOLUTION TO INADEQUATE HOT/WARM WATER:\nThe final decision was to 100% refund my purchase cost if I cut off the last 7-inches of the power cord and sent it in along with the sticker that has the washer's serial number on it. Done and done. Now that I know what to expect for temperatures (and if you turn up your water heater you'll get higher HOT temps) I feel $0 is the appropriate cost for this washer.\n*******************************************************************************************************************************************\n\nPREVIOUS REVIEWS:\n\nThis is a review of the white-colored&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Samsung-WF520ABW-XAA/dp/B004CZLSD2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Samsung WF520ABW/XAA</a>. Same washer guts, different color.\n\nHOW I USE THE WF520ABW:\n- All type of loads: king sheet sets, king mattress covers, big loads of towels, big loads of jeans, small loads of delicates, etc.\n\nWF520ABW PROS:\n- Large 5.0ft capacity (why I bought it), gentle as required, ergonomic interface, many cycle selections.\n\nWF520ABW CONS - The following points apply to all 3 brand new WF520ABWs I've had since 1JAN2011. Each with a different manufacturing date. # 3 was manufactured in January 2011:\n- The Heavy Duty cycle with WARM WASH/WARM RINSE adds only cold water. The maximum wash temp is 59F.\n- No cycle that allows WARM RINSE selection adds hot water to the rinse. All WARM RINSES are maximum 59F.\n- Other cycles that do add hot water to their WARM WASH selections have maximum temp of 89F, which is lukewarm to touch at best.\n- The maximum HOT WASH temp is 116F, which is warm to touch. The maximum EXTRA HOT WASH temp is 131F, which is hot to touch. Cold water is added to every cycle regardless of temp setting, no cycle uses only the hot water inlet. If I want to wash my clothes in hot water and I select a cycle that allows a HOT WASH or even an EXTRA HOT WASH, I think hot water only should enter the washer... that's why I have my hot water heater set at 141F.\n\nFINAL NOTES:\n- Samsung Customer Service agreed with me that there is a problem and authorized a repair on washer number 2. The Bay Area's sole Samsung authorized appliance repair, Jem Appliance (very good people, customer oriented, and knowledgable, BTW) replaced WF520ABW #2's main circuit board and the display board with no change in operation of the HEAVY DUTY CYCLE, WARM WASH/WARM RINSE, so I assume it's a main computer algorithm error.\n- As of 17FEB11, Samsung is insisting upon a repair technician for the 3rd washer.\n- The place I purchased it (Lowes South San Francisco) have been very accommodating/customer oriented (equivalent to Amazon's fabled Customer Service!), and I highly recommend them for appliance purchase. I am currently in discussions about the next step(s).", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4015, "id": 468695, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 472, "len_tokens": 649, "text": "BEWARE:  KitchenAid/Whirlpool/Kenmore does not stand behind their products.\n\nShort Version:\n\nI have an expensive counter depth KitchenAid refrigerator that is 2.5 years old (still paying for it) that I have to replace because it has been diagnosed as non-repairable.  I spent much effort jumping through hoops for KitchenAid/Whirlpool Customer Support, only to be told that I should have got an extended warranty.\n\nLong Version:\n\nProblem: NON-REPAIRABLE Refrigerator - Broken wire in cabinet.\nProduct: KitchenAid 25 cu.ft. refrigerator (Model #:KSCS25FVMK01)\nAge of Appliance: 2.5 years old (still paying for it)\n\nIt started out as an intermittent problem with the ice/water dispenser going out.  It quickly escalated to the ice/water dispenser, ice maker, and defrost heater completely going out.  It took almost a month, 3 service technician and 3 computer boards to diagnose the problem.  A broken neutral wire in the cabinet that cannot be fixed.  I called KitchenAid to let them know that an non-repairable 2.5 year old refrigerator is unacceptable.  KitchenAid/Whirlpool customer support would not even listen to my problem until I had a Authorized KitchenAid Repair company look at the refrigerator.  I purchased all my KitchenAid and Kenmore appliances from Sears so I have been going through Sears Home Services (A&E Factory Services) for repair service.  I was told by KitchenAid Customer Support that Sears Home Services (A&E Factory Services) are not KitchenAid Authorized???  4 phone calls and a few hours later I could not convince KitchenAid custom support otherwise so I gave up and had Kitchen Customer Support schedule a service repair for me.  I take yet another half day off of work and who shows up to verify that my non-repairable refrigerator is truly non-repairable but A&E Factory Services (same company as the previous service calls).  Conclusion, Yes it is non-repairable.  I called KitchenAid Customer Support the next day to verify they had all the information they needed to review the case.  They said it would be reviewed in 5 business days.  I called them 5 days later to find out that the case still did not get reviewed.  I called back 5 days later to find out the case was never up for review but I was assured it would be reviewed in the next 24 hours.  I called back in 2 days to find out that they did not have the technical data they needed.  Here is where I am a little confused because I was speaking with Barbara who said it was rejected by the review committee because of lack of technical data.  I was then passed off to the supervisor, Debbie (ID #3277) who told me that there was nothing they could do about it. I should have purchased the extended warranty.\n\nI never dreamed that I would be replacing my refrigerator before I finished paying for it.  Thanks for the \"KitchenAid/Whirlpool Customer Experience\"!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4016, "id": 468767, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 515, "len_tokens": 638, "text": "I literally put 2 laundry basket full of clothes in this thing, and it cleaned them all, without a problem!\nI don't know what the other review is talking about, I guess they just got 1 of the bad ones out of the bunch.\nWe have had nothing but happiness with this washer.\nI literally sat and watched this thing do 2 loads, because it's so awesome to look at your clothes being washed with a bright white light illuminating everything.\n\nI am not an engineering genius, I am only 23 years old and I installed this by myself, connected the hoses, leveled it front to back, side to side and it passed the install cycle within 5 minutes!\nAfter that I did 3 loads in 1 day, BIG loads, and the washer still kicks butt.\n\nTHE BEST THING ABOUT THIS WASHER?\nIt has an OUT-OF-BALANCE sensor, so when the Spin part of the cycle starts, you will see the washer spin moderately to see if it is balanced, if it's not, it will come to a stop and repeat, until it finds the perfect balance, and then it goes to its 1400 RPM AWESOMENESS!!! This is the best thing any company could do to increase the longevity of their washers... I had a Maytag top loader whose suspension bars bent because I washed a comforter and it was out of balance and it decided to spin to its top speed. When I read about this Spin Balancing Sensor, I was SOLD.\n\nAlso, it has a deep clean + sanitize setting which is NSF(National Science Foundation) certified to kill 99.9% of bacteria!\nWhat more could you ask for?\nI have a little one on the way, and this was just the icing on the cake for me!\nI knew I had to have this awesome washer.\n\nIt also has an Allergen option, which is NSF certified to kill 95% of Dustmites and remove 95% of pet dander!\nI am allergic to cats and dogs, so this was a great addition for me, incase I visit someone who has them, I can come home, wash my clothes and know that my Electrolux Washer will keep me safe from the pet dander!\nAMAZING.\n\nP.S. The Department of Energy changed the way they measure the Cubic Feet of washers and dryers, so if you go to Electrolux, you will see that they have updated their size for this model to 4.42 cu Ft.\nThat may sound like a huge disappointment, but the largest front loaders on the market are 4.5 cu Ft. so they were all doing what Electrolux was doing, which was measuring from the Door to the end of the drum, now the measure from the Lip of the drum to the end of the drum!\n\nThis washer makes laundry fun... which I never thought was possible.\nIt is so silent you can't even hear it, until it gets to the spin cycle where it is moderately loud, but barely vibrates (if you leveled it great)!\n\nI hope my review helps you in your decision!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4017, "id": 468784, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 535, "len_tokens": 648, "text": "I bought the SR70F-U1 because my brothers recommended Engel. He has the older top loading Engel but they stopped making the top loader model.  So I bought this one.\n\nI've used this fridge/freezer for about a year. I installed it in my 2016 Mercedes Benz Sprinter this spring (2017). There are two main reasons I'm disappointed to the degree of a 1 star review.\n\nThe nylon keeper on the back wall is too weak to hold the shelves from sliding forward. When the shelves slide forward toward the door, the sidewalls diverge just enough to let the shelves drop out of their slots and they drop down. I can't put only light stuff on the shelves, because I can't put heavy stuff on the door shelves (read about that below) so I zip-tied the shelves to the useless keepers at the back of the compartment as a work around.\n\nThe second reason for the 1 star, is the door's hinge design. The door pops open when I am braking and also hit a bump, like rail road tracks. This has happened to me many times.  I've added three thick washers under the bottom hinge to try to counter the door's sag. Now if I don't put anything heavy on the door, it stays shut. (The door's spring-loaded keeper pin is chamfered for easy closing. It can be installed backward and that would make the door hard to close and very easy to open. I mention this to ensure the reader that I have not installed the keeper pin backward. For those who think I've got the spring-loaded locking pin in backward, I don't.) The problem is a function of the flimsy door frame and hinges. They allow the right side of the door to sag beyond the tolerance of the spring-loaded keeper-pin to stay engaged under moderate dynamic loading.\n\nThe other reasons I don't like this products:\n- The plastic shelves on the door bend and they fall off the door. They didn't get the tolerance right. The plastic shelves don't securely engage the door.\n- The plastic tray under the freezer is too small and drops down.\n- The freezer has no door so it's contents drop out the front and the back, i.e., don't stay in the freezer compartment.\n\nThe interior just isn't designed for RV use on rough roads, specially if you have it facing forward. I didn't have that option based on Sprinter RV optimum human factor usability and space utilization.\n\nIt's compressor is loud because of internal sheet metal vibration, but I turn it off at night and everything is still cold in the morning. As you'd expect from Engel, it's a good thermal design - low Q..\n\nI'm now looking for a replacement, and I'll use this as my very expensive shop frig, where it will naturally help spread the word. If anyone can point me to a better frig for a Sprinter, please advise in a comment below.\n\nI posted this as a product review on Engel's site months ago, but it never showed up, so I'm posting it here.  I sent photos to Engel, so if anyone wants me to post them please leave a comment.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4018, "id": 469010, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 570, "len_tokens": 698, "text": "I tend to do a lot of investigating before purchasing any major appliance, let alone something online.  My wife is a cook and we only have a small kitchen but we make the most out of it.  Since we had not been in the electric range market until recently when our previous Amana burned out (some sort of short caused the cord to literally melt away from the range and melt the connectors to the range), I didn't even know stand alone units came with double ovens.\n\nI did a lot of investigating online as well as in stores.  Really liked the Whirlpool model and the Frigidaire, which had same size double ovens with the upper oven being convection.  After narrowing down to the two ranges (with some outside options), we went to Sears Outlet (scratch and dent since most of our range is not seen), ABC Warehouse (outrageous prices), Best Buy and Lowes.  Best Buy had the Frigidaire on sale for $1299 which was nearly $200 cheaper than Amazon.  Lowes said they would match the price but at last second I decided to measure the ranges to make sure it would fit.  I remodeled our kitchen myself and since most ranges are 30-inches or less, I made the opening only 30 inches between the cabinets (most contractors would build it  over 30 inches to have space).\n\nKnowing my space was only 30 inches wide meant I can't have anything wider.  Unfortunately, the Frigidaire (which gets excellent ratings on Amazon) is 30.2 inches wide and so it would not fit but the Whirlpool is 29.9 inches wide which fits perfectly.  The Whirlpool with the convection oven on the bottom was about $240 cheaper on Amazon than at any of the stores I mentioned earlier.  In addition, it would take a week for Lowes or Best Buy to get it in so with that I decided to try my luck with Amazon.\n\nIt took about a week to deliver but the purchase price includes shipping so that was a bonus.  The delivery only includes them getting it into the main door, which was fine for us since our house is a ranch and it was easy to put in place.  The range did come with a rather significant dent on the left side, which had no impact on the performance nor on the appearance since the sides are bookend by cabinets.  Therefore, we did not send it back since we also didn't want to go another week without a stove/oven.\n\nAs for performance, this is significantly better than our Amana which was to be expected.  It looks very nice in our kitchen and matches our other appliances very well.  The buttons are a little difficult to push but nothing that can't be dealt with.  The blue clock is much better looking than the traditional green, it looks more professional and elegant.  The stove performs great.  We really like the dual sized cooking rings as well as the warming ring.  We have not tried the convection oven other than just testing all the features - nothing cooked with it yet.\n\nOverall, we really like the range.  It has met our expectations and will come in handy for our many summer parties we have.  Would recommend this range and if you want more info than Amazon provides, check out Lowes.com as they provide everything, including the manuals online.  Makes shopping much easier.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4019, "id": 469108, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 509, "len_tokens": 640, "text": "I'll update this if we have any issues, but we've been in our new home for 2 months and so far this range is working perfectly.\n\nWe've baked cakes, cupcakes, brownies, lasagna, and mac and cheese. Nothing super technical, but they all came out great and it's nice having the space for 2 cakes side by side. The roller racks are also nice. The broiler is very fast, so watch closely. It starts up quickly.\n\nI'm used to baking with a gas oven, and prefer the simplicity and reliability of the all gas design to the dual fuel.  We have an electric wall over, but I prefer to use this one.\n\nOn the stove part, the extra low / intermittent burners are nice, but even when they're off for most of the cycle time, they're still pretty hot. They're big burners, so they don't work well with my little bialetti moka espresso pot (4\" diameter).  I put a cast iron trivet down off to the side and use it over just one point of the star, but it's really wasteful.  So while the star burners distribute heat evenly, their larger size does have a downside.\n\nI read the other reviews, and one noted the range is noisy.  Ours is very quiet and doesn't get as hot on the sides as my sister's Blue something commercial range. We got the 366G, not the 366GH.  No vertical back on ours.  Another reviewer was claiming that Bosch/Thermador won't stand by their product, but they say they purchased the range \"about 2 years ago\".  It's got a 2 year warranty, so I don't know why they don't specify if it was under warranty. That same person put the identical review up for a completely different range, so I didn't give it a lot of credence.\n\nMy brother and sister in law have the monster wide version and love it. I think this style of range is a bit silly, but they make a nice focal point for a large or fancy kitchen. Based on everything I read, what the appliance store guys we bought it from said, and what the repair guys said when they came out to fix the broken Dacor range at a beach house we rented, Thermador's gas ranges work better and tend to be more reliable than most of the other comparable options. The GE line was another option we considered. If you don't \"need\" this style of range though, the top of the line normal looking versions with slightly less heat output are generally less money and more reliable than these commercial style ranges across every brand.\n\n18-January-2017 update.  We're still using it almost daily with no reliability issues.  We did note one design issue.  If you leave the stove door open when broiling, the control knobs get hot enough to burn yourself on after a few minutes.  I don't know if that's a design flaw or not, but they cool off very quickly when you close the door, and they don't melt, or haven't yet :)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4020, "id": 469489, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 511, "len_tokens": 633, "text": "I bought this fridge 3 months ago and am now at a point to review:\n\nPROS:\n- Attractive\n- Main fridge is easy to access\n- Food humidity is better than I've seen with other fridges\n- Excellent lighting in both freezer and fridge\n- Nice glass shelves that are easy to clean\n- Lots of shelves in the main fridge compartment\n\nCONS:\n- The biggest negative for me is the noise.  I find the fridge quite loud.  Maytag advertises it as being quiet.\n- The freezer compartment is small.  There are 2 slide out drawers, and they fill very quickly.\n\nI am unable to determine if I'm saving electricity because I bought this in September and over the past couple of months I've been baking more for Christmas, and using more power than I normally would.  By June 2014 I should have a better idea about whether I'm saving money on power.\n\nI don't use the ice maker in this fridge.  If you were to use the ice maker you would have even less room.  I would rather use the ice try for extra freezer storage as I mentioned above the freezer is small in this fridge.\n\nI would only recommend this to a friend if that friend did not mind the fridge noise.  If the bedrooms and living room are far enough away from the fridge it would not be noticeable.  It only comes on periodically, but when it is on I really notice it in my quiet house.\n\n15-Jan-2014 - Sometimes the fridge comes on and it's very quiet.  Other times it's noisy.  After some more detective work, I determined that it's the freezer compartment fan that makes most of the noise and since the freezer fan does not always come on, it explains why it's quiet when it's on sometimes and noisy other times.\n\n03-Oct-2014 - After a year of living with this fridge I will say that my power consumption went down over the year and it was likely due to this fridge.  This fridge replaced the same size fridge that was 17 years old.  I find food in the freezer is not prone to freezer burn which was a problem with my old fridge.  After 3 weeks foods would be burned in the older fridge.  I'm not certain how Maytag remedied this situation.  Maybe it's because the freezer is on the bottom.  Heat rises.  If the freezer is at the bottom maybe it does not come on as much which reduced freezer burn.  The noise is still very bothersome.  I have never gotten used to the loudness of the fridge.\n\n02-Apr-2015 - The fridge has developed a grinding noise whenever it shuts off.  It will come on and the fan has always been noisy, but now there's a terrible rattle-grind that lasts for about 2 seconds.  It's annoying and makes me wonder if it's wearing out already.  I do not think I would ever buy another Maytag product or Whirlpool/KitchenAid for that matter.  No more of this junk will darken the doorway of my house.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4021, "id": 469553, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 581, "len_tokens": 670, "text": "We bought this for our Mom who is in her 80's, so simple and efficient operation was important. It was advertised as being quiet, and the spin cycle is amazingly unobtrusive, but it screeches during another part the cycle, which alarmed Mom at first because it sounded like it was having mechanical difficulty (i.e. not the sound of a smoothly operating appliance). Having to go out and buy a special type of detergent was also a thumbs-down (although I understand the reasoning behind it). People may have their distinct favorite brand after several decades of doing laundry, or they may want  to use coupons or buy detergent on sale if on a limited income and not be obligated to a higher priced item.\n\nOne day I came over to did the laundry for Mom. I am fascinated with new technology so I peeked inside the tub mid-cycle trying to see how the odd-looking agitator worked. I was surprised to see barely any water in the tub, and the clothes on top were out of the water. I thought maybe I had forgotten to change the Load Size setting from small to large when I put in the load. Guess what? No setting for load size--it automatically fills so you can't add more water even if you wanted to. Then I noticed actually printed on the machine \"It is normal for some of the load to be above the water level\". Hello. Last time I checked, you actually have to have clothes IN the water for them to get WASHED and eventually, clean. The machine is advertised as high-volume capacity but what good is that when you can't fill the water up to that capacity? The concept is that the agitator will eventually rotate the clothes on top down into the water, and push the others out of the water. So, I get it, you use only half the amount of water necessary by making the clothes take turns getting in and out of their bath. But....are you really getting the clothes clean swishing them around in half the water, which is twice as dirty? And the clothes are getting washed only half the time that you think they are, because half the time they are waiting their turn to get rotated in?\n\nAt the end of the cycle, there was just a little bit of detergent residue (using the high efficiency detergent) but the clothes still had dog hair on them. I had to redo the load which of course, negated the energy star effects for both water and electricity. Maybe if you never check the laundry afterward and just throw it into the dryer, you'll land up with more lint because the extra stuff got blown out instead of washed out. I understand you might not get everything out if you have tons of dog hair in there but it's not like she owns a kennel or anything, she has one little 15 pound dog. I have 3 dogs and my Kenmore (that actually uses enough water to wash the load) gets everything fabulously clean. So I think this is an example of a company being so excited about their new technology that they put it into production right away so they could be the first on the market, but actually thought it was not important to test it thoroughly first. What were they thinking? Truthfully, I wouldn't even get this machine it it were at the Goodwill.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4022, "id": 469740, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 395, "len_tokens": 609, "text": "WORST WASHER EVER!  I AM A 48 YR FEMALE AND THIS IS THE WORST WASHER I HAVE USED OR OWNED.  BOUGHT IN 2010 AFTER ONE OF THE GOVT REBATE OFFERS.  THOUGHT I MIGHT GET USED TO IT. NOPE. I DO NOT LIKE TO WASTE MONEY AND THIS HAS BEEN A WASTE AND I WILL HAVE TO SPEND MORE MONEY TO BUY A NEW ONE.  REASONS I DO NOT LIKE.  DOES NOT GET CLOTHES CLEAN.  TOWELS SMELL AWFUL AFTER WASH.  LIGHT COLOR SHEETS SEEM DIRTIER THAN WHEN THEY WENT IN.  LID LOCKS CAN NOT OPEN WITHOUT PRESSING THE UNLOCK.  WHEN YOU DO THE MACHINE EMPTIES AND STARTS OVER.  CYLCE TAKES A LONG 56 MIN.  MANY TIMES THE CLOTHES ARE SO WET I HAVE TO PUT THEM ON THE SPIN CYCLE.  WHEN I HAVE OPENED THE WASHER THE CLOTHES ARE PACKED AT THE BOTTOM AND NOT ALL ARE WET - HOW CAN THAT BE CLEANING.  REP TOLD ME CAN ONLY FILL 3/4 FULL HOW IS THAT ENERGY EFFICIENT.  I AM ALL ABOUT SAVING WATER AND ELECTRICY BUT WHEN YOU HAVE TO WASH THE CLOTHES TWICE HOW IS THAT ENERGY EFFICIENT.  I PLAN TO GO BACK TO THE OLD TYPE WASHER THAT HAS AN AGITATOR, FILLS UP WITH WATER AND YOU CAN OPEN THE LID TO ADD A SOCK OR SOMETHING AND USES REGULAR DETERGENT (NOT A HUGE DEAL).  ONE THING I HAVE TRIED IS ADDING BAKING SODE LAUNDRY BOOSTER BUT THIS IS AN ADDED EXPENSE AND YOU ARE TO BUY WASHER CLEANER ANOTHER EXPENSE.  I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND ANY ONE BUY THIS WASHER (ACTUALLY SAW A LADY IN A STORE AND TRIED TO WARN HER BUT SHE BOUGHT ANYWAY).  IT HAS TAKEN FOUR YEARS TO TAKE THE TIME TO GET THE MODEL NUMBER TO WRITE THIS REVIEW.  I PLAN TO GO ON EVERY SITE I CAN TO REVIEW AND HOPEFULLY SAVE SOMEONE ELSE THIS SAME MISTAKE.  IF ONLY I HAD READ REVIEWS PRIOR TO MY PURCHASE, LESSON LEARNED.  MY HUSBAND SAYS TOSS IT AND BUY ANOTHER (HE IS TIRED OF ME COMPLAINING ABOUT IT).  WHAT A WASTE OF MONEY BUT THAT IS WHAT I PLAN TO DO.  HAVE READ SO MANY SIMILIAR REVIEWS, SAME ISSUES.  DON'T BUY THIS WASHER.  IT IS NOT THAT IT IS A WHIRLPOOL EITHER IT IS THE ENERGY EFFICIENT PART.  I SHOULD STOP NOW BUT COULD GO ON AND ON.....", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4023, "id": 470132, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 516, "len_tokens": 627, "text": "VERY VERY Unhappy with this item.\n\nShipping very rude and the service to get a refund a bunch of RED TAPE STILL WAITING for refund. I bought set and they would only take back the washer. The matching dryer TAKES TO LONG TO DRY. Since my washer would not work from day 1. I had to go to laundromat to get my clothes wash then take them home just to find out that the matching dryer takes 2 1/2 hours to dry. NO JOKE!!!!!! Since I bought the set I was told by evVive Home that if maytag comes to service it could cost me $500 out of my pocket??? ANd I would have to pay for return shipping over $200\n\nLet's do the math together\n$500 + $200 out of my pocket for a NEW ITEM and then the amount I paid for the set = $\"lost money and a waste of time.\"\nAmazon help me file Your Amazon.com A-to-z Guarantee Claim report. Well AMAZON did side with the company and now I HAVE A 150lb dryer as a paper weight.\n\nThis is the email response that was given to me as of today\nWednesday, February 13, 2013 5:41 AM\n\nHello from Amazon.com.\n\nWe are writing to follow up with you regarding the Guarantee claim that was filed for order. We have checked into the matter and a reimbursement for the full amount of washer was completed on Feb 13th.\n\nWe have confirmed that the seller who fulfilled this order has a posted returns policy, stating that the item(s) purchased cannot be returned under these circumstances.\n\nFor your reference, this seller's returns policy states:\"You can return your order within 15 days from the purchase date.\"\n\nIn response to your claim, the seller who fulfilled this order has declined to accept the return of this dryer. Amazon.com strives to maintain a marketplace that is fair to both buyers and sellers. Since this policy was available for review prior to the date your order was placed, we are unable to compel the seller to accept a return. As a result, your claim has been closed.\n\nIf this is a defective or damaged item, it is possible that it is under warranty with the manufacturer. We advise that you contact them for assistance. In many cases, they are willing to repair or replace defective products.\n\nThank you for choosing Amazon.com.\n\nAGAIN BEWARE OF THIS COMPANY IN SELLING YOU ANYTHING. STILL WAITING FOR REFUND which will not be 100%.\n\nIf you are reading this and would like to buy a washer / dryer with your tax refund do not buy from this company or Amazon.\n\nYour best bet is to go on Craigslist or your closest retail outlet such as Menards, Sams Club etc... I am sure they would refund you 100% or a different model that works. Never again would I buy any appliances from a website.\n\nFor those who are marking a 100% rating, \"must work for the company and just blogging to make you think you are getting a great deal.\"\n\nI am 100% unhappy.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4024, "id": 470187, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 536, "len_tokens": 615, "text": "Our LG french door with ice/water dispenser which cost us $2212.00 has been an eye opening experience.  We've purchased other LG electronics and had good experiences and thought that this brand was reliable.  Our 4 y/o fridge burned out a wire that blew 2 circuit boards in the ice/water dispenser.  We paid $427 to replace both circuit boards before they figured out that the wire was burned & we also needed to replace the entire door for another $360.  The repair man suggested that I ask LG to foot the bill for the door. LG service refused consider my request because it was out of warranty (the warranty only is 1 year)so I demanded to speak to a supervisor, It was only at this higher level that I finally got them to consider my request.  They made me jump through hoops producing the original sales receipt etc and taking over 3 weeks to respond.  LG finally conceded and replaced the door but that was only after I told them that I was going to tell everyone i knew not to purchase their appliances.\n\nDuring the 3 weeks i was waiting for LG to make up their minds if they would help me or not, I began speaking with my friends about my experience.  I found that almost everyone I spoke to who had an LG appliance that was out of warranty had failure of those appliances and had to replace them.  It seems that LG is making their products to last through the warranty and then fail.  Refrigerator condensers seem to magically fail only months after the warranty expires.  I've spoken to people whose driers failed after only 6 months of use, and my friend with a 3 year old LG dishwasher said it sounded like it would die any second and she couldn't find an appliance repair that would service it when they found out it was an LG.  It finally died 6 months later and she has replaced it with a GE. Another friend's LG microwave died a month after the 1 year warranty expired.\n\nThe lesson here is that although LG appliances will work wonderfully for the first few years you own them, you should expect that soon after your warranty expires you will find that the appliance will fail and you will be footing the bill for costly repairs or replacement. this is not such a big deal if it's a cell phone, but when you are spending $2,200 or more for an appliance you expect it to last longer than 4 years.  I now fully expect that the compressor will fail on my refrigerator shortly after it is 7 years old (end of compressor warranty).\n\nEven though LG finally did the right thing and replaced the door, It was only after I demanded to speak to a supervisor and demanded that they do something for me.  I will never purchase another LG appliance and I'm warning you about this. Before purchasing LG appliances I suggest you talk to everyone you know and learn their experiences.  I'm certain that you will begin discovering that many people have had similar experiences as I & my friends have had with LG.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4025, "id": 470236, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 556, "len_tokens": 650, "text": "I have only owned this machine for about a week now but it is amazing!!! Yes, the washing times are longer than a normal washer but the spin cycle is so damn fast it only takes about 15 minutes to dry even my heavy clothes. You can't imagine how fast this thing spins until you see it in action - 1,400 RPMs!!! It also uses very, very little water which is kind of alarming at first and you have to use \"high efficiency\" detergent. I love my machine so far and I have not had any balance problems. I bought it at the Sears outlet store and saved a ton of money over brand new so I was also able to afford a 3-year warranty and it was still cheaper than new. I washed two king-sized blankets at the same time and there was no problem. If you use the heavy soil mode, yes, the wash cycle can be two hours or more but if you use the \"Normal\" mode, it is 59 minutes. It is also crazy quiet, you can barely hear it and even when the spin cycle is going like crazy, you can put your hand on the machine and just barely feel any movement. So far I love, love, love this machine!\n\nUPDATE ON 9/4/13. I am no longer thrilled with this machine. As you might have read, front-load washers start to stink after a while and they make your clothes smell like rotten sewer water. This is not a problem with the whites as you can use bleach but on colored loads, they can start to smell really bad after a while. You can buy those washing machine cleaner tabs which I think are just concentrated bleach tabs and they are expensive too. My old machine was not as big but I never had a problem with smelly clothes. Would I buy this machine again? NO. I wish I would have known the problems with the smell build-up. Also, the front glass of the machine has so much buildup on it, you can hardly see through it anymore. Furthermore, if you have dogs/cats, the drainage holes in the front of the tub get clogged up with hair so bad that they won't drain. I am constantly digging my fingers in the holes to try to unplug them which is totally nasty and a very bad design flaw. Otherwise, if you don't clean them out, you will get about two inches of water and hair and gunk sitting in the front part of the machine and that also gets very smelly and yucky too. I can't imagine Maytag would not have tested this in a lab but maybe they did not think of using these machines on pet hair. I would imagine that at least 2/3 of the country has a cat or dog so this machine is really not good in that capacity. I am actually wanting to sell it and buy a large capacity top-loader. I just don't like this design and all of the flaws - my old top-loader though not as big did not have any problems and did not make your clothes stink nor did it ever clog up with hair and not drain. All-in-all, very, very disappointed with this machine and Maytag in general. Sigh.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4026, "id": 471627, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 528, "len_tokens": 647, "text": "Our 17 year old 24\" GE wall oven/microwave had a catastrophic failure and new parts are no longer available.  I chose this 27\" wall oven/microwave because: 1-It would fit in the old kitchen cabinet with some modification, 2-Electrolux is a good brand, 3-The reviews (although only a few) are good, 4-The price was very good, 5-Free shipping.\n\nThis unit weighs 250 pounds so requires at least two people to put it in place (I had to widen the old cabinet opening and expand it by lowering the bottom of the compartment about 3\").  I got it installed a few days before Thanksgiving so wanted it use it to roast our turkey using the \"Perfect Turkey\" setting.  We baked a cake first to make sure everything was working properly.  The turkey should have taken about 3 hours but it stopped cooking after about an hour-and-a-half.  We continued to cook the turkey on the regular roast mode.  When I eventually carved the turkey I discovered the problem.  When I inserted the probe I was careful but the tip of the probe went all the way through the meat and just into the cavity where the stuffing was.  The probe measures temperature and stops the cooking when 180 degrees is reached.  The stuffing got hotter sooner so the cooking stopped sooner.  The lesson, make sure the probe is inserted properly so that the tip is in the thickest part of the meat and isn't touching bone or in an area of fat.  The probe should in only as far as necessary so that the tip of the probe is at the thickest part of the meat.  The location of the tip of the probe is critical.  You may want to try cooking a roast before you try the \"perfect turkey\" setting because it would be easier to place the probe properly in a roast.\n\nThe oven itself was well packed but tape residue was left on surface.  I sprayed WD-40 on a soft paper towel and the residue came right off.  Of course this left an oil film that had to be removed with a mild solution of soap and water on a soft paper towel.  All of the labels on the doors peeled off easily except one.  I had to use a painters/window washers blade to gently remove that large label.  I got the scraper, which uses a one-sided razor blade, in the paint section of Walmart for about $3.\n\nThe microwave works well but a jet of air blows out the front while cooking and for about two minutes after it finishes.  This is somewhat annoying since it blows in your face or hair and is rather loud.\n\nNonetheless, we are happy with this product.  It is stylish, has advanced electronic controls, works well and is a great replacement for the old oven.  Anything larger than 27\" would have required a larger cabinet and major changes to adjacent cabinets and counter-tops.  I'll do an update if I discover any new issues or features.  Oh, it appears that this model is no longer being produced but there is a similar 30\" model which wouldn't fit in our old cabinet.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4027, "id": 473306, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 506, "len_tokens": 669, "text": "I have a cheap second refrigerator in my garage; it's branded \"Costco by Whirlpool\" and built in 1999 in Mexico.\nRecently the refrigerator compartment wasn't cooling... spoiled milk was the first clue. This was in spite of the fact that the freezer compartment was fine.\nI knew that if the compressor was bad it probably wouldn't be worth repairing this old fridge BUT it probably was OK since the freezer was working. Given the age of the refrigerator I was reluctant to call out a repairman when the meter is at $75-100 when they first show up. So I Googled \"Whirlpool refrigerator not cooling\" to see if I could get any hint as to whether or not it was liable to be a big problem.\nMUCH to my surprise I found a lot of really useful information including several very helpful UTube tutorials. These videos provided trouble-shooting tips and detailed disassembly instructions.... once I opened up the freezer compartment (not at all difficult) it was clear from the hidden ice buildup that the defrost cycle wasn't working and that the ice was blocking cold air from the refrigerator compartment. Several of these videos pointed to the automatic defrost system as the likely culprit and specifically to this defrost thermostat. One even showed a test procedure to verify whether the defrost thermostat was faulty (involves a multi-meter and a glass of ice water, but a AA battery and a flashlight bulb would have worked). Sure enough it looked bad (and failed the test) so I went to the local supply houses to find one. They had generics in stock but those lack the clip on feature. The delay for the clip-on part was 4 four days and the cost was $35.... I could have gotten it just as fast and much cheaper through Amazon. The only \"skill\" required was stripping the wires and applying wire nuts and electricians' tape (see UTube for detailed how-to).\nWhile I was in there I noticed the fan motor was wobbly and somewhat sticky and thus seemed likely to fail soon. This fan was $65 from my local suppliers so I ordered this guy<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-Part-Number-2197381-Evaporator-Fan-Motor/dp/B0050KKZ96/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool Part Number 2197381: Evaporator Fan Motor</a>&nbsp;from Amazon for about half that. It was easy to install with my newly-found expertise at removing the freezer parts and fit perfectly... probably a 15-minute chore to replace and it works without wobbling and is very smooth turning. Everything good except my worrying... why worry? The vendor delivered the part to UPS within 24 hours of my order but the UPS tracking system said it was going to take 16 DAYS to get here.... from CA to WA!! I kept checking and the UPSs system kept reporting 16 days. It actually showed up in 5 days (three working days) which is normal UPS Ground from California, so it was all about faulty UPS reporting, not any actual service problem, but if you were waiting for it to repair our main refrigerator, it could cause some stress.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4028, "id": 475249, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 515, "len_tokens": 626, "text": "We got this on sale at Best Buy at $1,198 including home delivery. I would say even at $1398 which seems to be the average non-discounted price, we will still buy it.\n\nIf you are looking for an inexpensive french door fridge, this is the ticket. Although it's the cheapest among the french door units out there, this fridge does not skimp on functionalities.\n\nPROS:\n- GREAT LOOKING - the stainless steel version we got is beautiful. Fit and finish is nice. Better than a high end GE Profile one we had in our old house.\n- Spacious - both top and bottom section have lots of room\n- The French Door provide very wide and open access to the fridge section\n- The Top Drawer in the Bottom Freezer has wheels/gears on it which makes it easier & smoother to roll in and out. Some older Maytag/Whirlpool/Kitchenaid models do not have this and are much harder to open/close. Those older units are simply just rails on slots. My in-laws has a higher end Kitchenaid and their top drawer in the bottom freeze are really difficult to operate.\n- Feature Rich: Even it is the most inexpensive french door among all brands, it does not skimp on features: water/ice dispenser, humidity control, outside temp display/control, etc.\n- The water filter is very high capacity (someone told me 750 gallons). The flow rate is great, much better than the older Maytag Plus that it replaced.\n- The water dispense looks great. The lights are LED and have a blueish tint. Looks very cool!\n- Tall bottles go into both left and right door shelves\n\nCONS:\n- The stainless steel seems easy to dent. The delivery guys leaned the fridge on the counter just a bit, and it resulted in a small dent. However, Maytag was great and they are sending a replacement door and a service man has followed up already to arrange the installation\n- Be careful catching the ice. The ice cubes easily escape the cup. There is a certain technique to it but we trained ourselves quickly.\n\nSURPRISE:\n- Fridge magnets still work! We thought magnets doesn't work on stainless steel but they seem to still work on this fridge's front doors. That is great! Note that the surface is still definitely stainless steel and not \"stainless look\" like the LG. I have no idea why the fridge magnet works. May be they just have a think shell of stainless steel over metal... But, this is a big plus for me. I was actually researching how to stick pictures and stuff on stainless fridge, and now I don't need such solution.\n\nReliability:\n- We did tons of research and found that this fridge model has a lot of great reviews on a site call viewpoints.com.\n- The primary alternative at this price range would be the LG and Samsung french doors. Both are around $1400-1500 and neither one includes gas dispenser. The LG reviews are horrible and it has poor reliability records. The Samsung is more expensive with no water/ice dispenser.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4029, "id": 475413, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 540, "len_tokens": 660, "text": "We got this on sale at Best Buy at $1,198 including home delivery.  I would say even at $1398, we might still get it.\n\nIf you are looking for an inexpensive french door fridge, this is the ticket.  Although it's the cheapest among the french door units out there, this fridge does not skimp on functionalities.\n\nPROS:\n- GREAT LOOKING - the stainless steel is beautiful. Fit and finish is superb. Better than a high end GE Profile one we had in our old house.\n- Spacious - both top and bottom section have lots of room\n- The French Door provide very wide and open access to the fridge section\n- The Top Drawer in the Bottom Freezer has wheels/gears on it which makes it easier & smoother to roll in and out. Some older Maytag/Whirlpool/Kitchenaid models do not have this and are much harder to open/close. Those older units are simply just rails on slots. My in-laws has a higher end Kitchenaid and their top drawer in the bottom freeze are really difficult to operate.\n- Feature Rich: Even it is the most inexpensive french door among all brands, it does not skimp on features: water/ice dispenser, humidity control, outside temp display/control, etc.\n- The water filter is very high capacity (someone told me 750 gallons). The flow rate is great, much better than the older Maytag Plus that it replaced.\n- The water dispense looks great. The lights are LED and have a blueish tint. Looks very cool!\n- Tall bottles go into both left and right door shelves\n\nCONS:\n- The stainless steel seems easy to dent. The delivery guys leaned the fridge on the counter just a bit, and it resulted in a small dent. However, Maytag was great and they are sending a replacement door and a service person has followed up already to arrange the installation\n- Be careful catching the ice. The ice cubes easily escape the cup. There is a certain technique to it but we trained ourselves quickly.\n\nSURPRISE:\n- Fridge magnets still work!  We thought magnets doesn't work on stainless steel but they seem to still work on this fridge's front doors. That is great!  Note that the  surface is still definitely stainless steel and not \"stainless look\" like the cheaper version of Samsung (Samsung offers both \"Stainless Look\" and \"True Stainless Steel\").  I have no idea why the fridge magnet works. May be they just have a thin shell of stainless steel over metal...  But, this is a big plus for me. I was actually researching how to stick pictures and stuff on stainless fridge, and now I don't need such solution.\n\nReliability:\n- We did tons of research and found that this fridge model has a lot of great reviews on a site call viewpoints.com.\n- The primary alternative at this price range would be the LG and Samsung french doors. Both are around $1400-1500 and neither one includes water/ice dispenser. The LG reviews are horrible and it has poor reliability records. The Samsung is more expensive and has the ice dispenser in the freezer which takes up valuable freezer space (I'd rather give up on fridge space rather than freezer space myself).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4030, "id": 478182, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 584, "len_tokens": 678, "text": "I purchased a Bosch Ascenta dishwasher in February 2013 to replace a 12 year old Maytag that worked just fine but was falling apart. I did a lot of research and Bosch came out on top with rave reviews from all the lead consumer boards. That said, I eagerly awaited the day the eyesore of a beat up Maytag would be replaced with a state of the art shiny new Bosch. What a let down I had when the first thing I noticed is that this dishwasher is so slim it doesn't fill out the space in my counter cabinets. Apparently the installer knows this because he came prepared with some cheap plastic strips that he placed in the space to fill out the gaps. So with the first blow of my new investment looking cheesy I kept my chin up and looked forward to new racks with no rust and sparkling clean dishes. Well, needless to say I was less then impressed with the cleaning power of this supposed super cleaning machine. IN fact they are no cleaner then my 12 year old Maytag. Not only are they marginally clean but they are always wet when I open the door. Where is the steam? or even the heat for that matter? It's always damp inside and smells bad in between washings because apparently there is no ventilation holes. Quiet? Not really, I can hear it. But honestly dishwasher noise was never an issue as I don't hang around my kitchen all night after I fire it up. I mean who really cares about noise? Aren't people sick of being in the kitchen after cooking, serving, eating, cleaning? I finally called to see maybe it was me, maybe I missed something or have to adjust something. What I was told it that, I need to empty it right away or the water that doesn't evaporate because their is no ventilation settles back on the dishes. OK I tried that. I awaited anxiously for my wash to complete and eagerly opened the door hoping I would have a blast of sanitizing steam and dry dishes. Nope! All I had was soggy dishes. As far as saving money? Maybe, if I didn't have to buy the most expensive cleaning bricks and rinsing agents and run it every single day for fear of mold growing. I wish I bought something else. So I do NOT recommend this item..\n\nUPDATE, Machine is still is horrible! It's impossible to load because its designed for dessert plates. Don't even try to put a bowl in it, there is no slot for it, You have to put it sideways in the neutral space between the slots, which are going in all different directions!! The silverware holder flies out while your unloading because it doesn't \"nest\" in, and your glasses better be elfin size because the top rack is a series of very narrow rows of weirdly shaped prongs. It;s leaving a worst residue as the months go on, it  doesn't matter what detergent or rinse you use, it all has to be soaked off after and hand dried. My son rarely will use knives, because he said they are always dirty and it grosses him out. I didn't notice because i don't eat with my glasses on and I am about blind close up. I imagine the quietness, which seems to be the only plus to it, is because it has no water pressure and this is why nothing gets clean.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4031, "id": 478185, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 507, "len_tokens": 629, "text": "When my old dishwasher stopped working, we needed a replacement... quick! We were in the market for a mid-range dishwasher that would get the job done. I let my husband go to the appliance store alone, with a list of possible options (Whirlpool, Frigidaire... and one Bosch, since I had heard good things). This one was not on the list, but the saleslady must have done a good job convincing the DH because this is what we got.  I have hated it from the beginning.  Why do I hate it so?  Let me count the ways:\n\n1. The inside is VERY poorly designed!  The bottom of the top rack is not flat, so cups tip over during the cycle and fill with dirty water.  Gross.\n2. The inside is VERY poorly designed!  The pegs on the bottom rack are spaced very strangely.  I cannot put two rows of dishes (small and large) next to each other because there isn't enough room.  They just don't fit!\n3.  The inside is VERY poorly designed!  Some of the pegs are so close together that I don't feel the dishes get cleaned very well, so I have to space the dishes out more to get them cleaner.\n4.  The inside is VERY poorly designed!  There is no good place to put the silverware holder.  If I put it along the side, I lose a row of pegs for dishes.  If I put it along the back, I lose a row of pegs for dishes.\n5.  I can only fit one pot/pan on the bottom if I am washing dishes, too.  No matter how I try to rearrange the dishes, there just doesn't seem to be enough room to make things fit.\n6.  I don't know if it's the poor design of the racks or if it is truly smaller on the inside, but this dishwasher washes much smaller loads than my last two dishwashers. I need to run it twice as many times as my old ones in order to do the same amount of dishes.\n7. Because I am constantly washing smaller loads of dishes, this machine is costing me more $$$ in water and detergent!\n8.  Since I can't get all the dishes from one meal to fit in a load, my sink is constantly filled with more dirty dishes waiting for their turn to be washed.  Ugh.\n9. I hate the buttons and the flashing lights!  If you don't actually press the on/off button before opening the dishwasher after running a load, the lights will blink... and blink... and blink... until you do.\n10.  This dishwasher is the worst one I have ever owned!  I secretly hope it will break so I can toss it into the dumpster where it belongs and get myself a decent dishwasher!!!\n\nI cannot think of one positive thing to say about this dishwasher.  It really is terrible.  We are a family of four, not using a ton of dishes, and this thing is awful.  I would not recommend it to anyone!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4032, "id": 482738, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 578, "len_tokens": 698, "text": "This is a difficult review to write since we would give the design and concept of this range five (5) stars easily.  We have had several problems with this range from the original problem of the burners not firing properly to the bottom oven shorting the entire unit (it is LP gas) out and, most importantly BOTH ovens unable to be calibrated so we can get a consistent temperature.  The burners were fixed by the GE appointed repair agency to our satisfaction.  After talking to thats agency, we learned that the shorting was a common problem caused by the gauge of metal in the bottom of the bottom oven being too thin so that when it heated, it sagged onto the igniter, shorting the whole oven out and tripping the circuit breaker.  The calibration of the ovens is the most vital problem since we make all our own bread and cook extensively.  We will, for example, set the oven for 350 F and when it signals \"temperature reached\" we put our item in.  10 minutes later, the oven is at 425 F so we slightly adjust the temp downward, only to have it go to 250 F in 10-20 minutes.  This is the case in both ovens.  If we could have a consistent \"incorrect\" temp, we could possibly adjust for that but with no consistency, that is impossible.  We have purchased 4 thermometers to check the temperature of the oven - one an expensive but accurate mercury one.  We purchased the oven in 2015 so it is out of warranty.  In calling GE, the rep I first talked to gave all sorts of help, including her extension to call once I found out the parts that might be needed once their appointed repair agency reviewed the situation.  He knew what the problem was and gave me part numbers so I called my \"contact\".  I got voice mail stating that she was unavailable but would respond to my message within 24 hours.  I have left 4 messages for her with no response.  Finally I was able to reach another rep and now she tells me I am going to have to pay a discounted price for the safety issue (breaker tripping) and labor for the calibration.  Additionally, the GE rep stated that they have no record of me returning calls.  First, it is hard to return a call when you are put on hold for (in one case) an hour and 26 minutes and in many other cases up to 45 minutes.  To then be told that I didn't call them or return their call is tremendously irksome.  At one point they called me to say they would be taking this case off their active file if they didn't hear from me.  Here again, after a long wait, I could only leave a message telling them not to do so since I was waiting to talk to my contact (OR ANYONE) to give them the information I had gotten from the repair agency.  I really have wanted to get this taken care of easily but it now appears I will have to go through our State Consumer Protection Division of the AG's office since this clearly qualifies under the Maine Lemon Law.  It could have been so much easier!  So, the design of the oven is fantastic and if we can get it fixed  it will be great.  THE ONE STAR IS FRANKLY FOR GE'S LACK OF CUSTOMER SERVICE!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4033, "id": 482834, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 527, "len_tokens": 663, "text": "I purchased this range from a local brick and mortar store and I love it, so far.  It has a solid, high quality, updated but traditional look and feel that won't go out of style. It may sound silly, but the big, smooth, heavy metal knobs make a difference to me.\n\nThis range has a couple of features that some similar \"non-backsplash\", freestanding units don't have. It has a stainless trim around the cooktop, so the unit snugs up to the countertop without overlapping, making it simpler to install. In addition, many of the freestanding units vent oven air out the front of the unit.  I read that some customers felt a strong gust of air blowing on them, while cooking.  This range vents UPward from the back of the cooktop, so exhaust gets pulled away by our range hood fan.\n\nI love the high wattage, extra-large burner in front, which can be used as a medium sized burner as well.  Another medium on the other side, a variety of sizes in back and the 5th burner cooks as well as warms. I also love the baking drawer.  There is one medium wattage element in the baking drawer, so it requires a longer preheat time, but as long as I remember to turn it on about a half hour before I want to bake some potatoes or a casserole, it does a great job.  The larger oven preheats quickly and has many racks for cookies.  So far, we used convection to evenly and quickly cook meatloaf and cookies.\n\nWe have experienced a couple of minor snafu's.  The first scheduled delivery, the unit had a medium size dent and had to be sent back.  The second delivery went smoothly, but after the delivery guys left, I noted a very small bend and unpainted section (small like 1/4\" x 1/4\" triangle shaped section) on the inside section of one of the exhaust holes.  I probably could have requested a new unit, but frankly I didn't want the hassle.  I called the store and they scheduled a service visit.  GE Service carefully straightened the slight bend and ordered some heat resistant touch up paint.  As a backup, they also ordered a replacement part for the section of metal that includes the unpainted area.  Replacing the part seems like overkill, however, since you need a flashlight and to squint your eyes to see the spot.  My only concern is rust (over the years).  The paint should take care of that.  They have scheduled a followup visit when the parts come in and indicated that I can choose to have them replace the part if I'm concerned that the touch up paint does not look ok.  So, I'm very satisfied with their response.\n\nThis unit does not have a \"hidden element\" in the oven, as some ovens on the market do; easier for cleaning.  I also would have liked a split oven rack and perhaps a rack with ball bearings, but these are minor issues.\n\nI left a star off only because quality control might need improvement.  If our unit arrived without any flaws, I would have given it 5 stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4034, "id": 482889, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 572, "len_tokens": 698, "text": "I don't understand all the negative reviews here. When I bought my Cabrio about 5 1/2 years ago, it was one of the highest rated machines by Consumer Reports. I don't always agree with or go by their ratings in some things, and they can overlook problems, but they seem to have a pretty good testing system for washing machines. As mentioned, I've had it about 5 1/2 years, and I have not had a single repair problem, although I only need to do laundry about once a week. I usually use it set on Normal, but I may try Casual now, as one reviewer mentioned it gives it more water. However too little water has not been a problem. I have a white machine with a clear top, so I have watched the mechanism in action as it's washing clothes, and even in the Normal setting it does wet and rotate clothes in the wash. At first I didn't realize it needed HE detergent, but no harm was done and once I switched to HE detergent the clothes seemed even cleaner, about as clean as with an old Kenmore with a traditional agitator used in my previous residence. It seems like the agitation used in cabrio is gentler on the clothes, from observation of the action and perceived wear to my garments.  More recently I started adding non-chlorine bleach (hydrogen peroxide). I always run the extra rinse cycle, just to make sure the detergent is rinsed out completely--I did that with my previous machine and would do that no matter what machine I used.\n\nI thought the washer may have been eating some socks, as I was missing about 4 or 5 mates, but I recently found several, including one long-lost one, so it wasn't the machine. I don't know if most modern machines have this, but I like the load balancing mechanism--I assume that's what it is--which gives the load a few spins at first, stops the drum short, and a balancing weight slides into position. If there are too many clothes, at some point in the wash cycle the machine stops, drains the water, shuts itself off and gives its shut-off beeps. The LCD screen reads Lo, which means overload, so you need to take out one or more pieces of clothes and start the wash over with more detergent (it shuts off before the bleach is added, so that doesn't need to be replenished). This only happened for the first time in the last year, and only a few times.\n\nI think most of the problems people have with the machine (I can't speak to repair problems, as I've never had any), is that they are not used to the agitation mechanism and wash action, expecting it to fill the tub, and don't understand it. When Consumer Reports did one of their wash tests, which is to leave the clothes in the washer, for a period of days, I think, to see if any mold or odors developed, the Cabrio did fine in that regard, an indication it was thoroughly cleaning the clothes, and I have never experienced any odors in the machine.\n\nPS My model, being from 2009, may be a little different than the ones reviewed here, as someone mentioned a Sanitize setting, which mine doesn't have, but I believe it's basically the same model, 4.6 cu. ft., stainless steel drum, clear top, etc.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4035, "id": 482913, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 504, "len_tokens": 605, "text": "JUNE 2013 Bought the Cabrio WED8600YW2 from a local small business which only sells Whirlpool products, as 25 years ago we bought mainly Whirlpool appliances, with no complaints.  My oh my, how time changes things. This machine does NOT clean your clothes, unless you put it on the heavy soiled option or the heavy duty cycle. You can choose whether to wash a small to medium load without much work to get them into the dryer OR do a large load, but be prepared to spend time getting your clothes from the 'washer' to the dryer.  The clothes end up twisted and knotted together, which leaves hundreds of wrinkles.  We are big fans of Downy wrinkle release, just remember to spray all your clothes before putting them in the dryer and they usually come out wrinkle free, whether they are clean or not. And that brings me to another choice you get to make. Do you want to buy new clothes within a short time frame OR wear clothes with stains on them. The normal cycle does not clean and if you wash on heavy duty or soiled options, your clothes will show very noticable wear within one or two wash cycles.  Whirlpool made a big mistake putting a see through lid. After numerous loads of clothes coming out with spots, I decided to watch the cycle. I am 49 years old and have never felt the need to stand by the washer while it was 'suppose' to be washing clothes.  There is hardly enough water to get the clothes wet, the 'cleaning' action is nothing more than your clothes getting tightly wound together and then the wash plate motion takes your ring of knotted clothes and moves them vigorously against each other. The clothes would show less wear if I beat them on a rock AND they probably would be cleaner.  A comparison would be taking six t-shirts put in a five gallon bucket, pour about 2 cups of water on them with a couple drops of soap, then take your hand beater/blender from your kitchen and spin back and forth, back and forth, while occasionally adding another half-cup of water for 40 minutes.  They may actually come out cleaner with less wear. I am not even going to say a word about the 'rinse'.  The bottom line is that this is NOT a washing machine.  This washer is getting out of this house within the next two weeks, our local businessman is buying it back, of course there is a $250 loss, but I would spend more than that replacing dirty worn out clothes and would like to avoid some of the costly repairs that I've read about that needed to be done within the first two years. And I don't need a technician showing me how to use a washer, which was an option offered to me.  Where oh where did Whirlpool's quality go? .... right down the drain with the clean water.. because the dirt is still in your clothes!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4036, "id": 483008, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 530, "len_tokens": 653, "text": "Pros:\n1.  This cooktop generally performs well.\n2.  Look like a high tech and restaurant style cooktop when installed\n2.  The electronic igniters do a good job on repeatedly lighting the flames, with consistency and regulating the flames.\n3.  LED lights illuminate the base of each control knob when the flame for a burner is on.  This is a nice feature to let you know if any of the burners are on.\n\nCons:\n1.  The thickness of the stainless steel base is not very thick and does not appear to have the hardness, required to resist scratches and dents that come from general cleaning with scourers and dropping the occasional kitchen implements.  Also, the cast iron grates do not have any protection on their footings to protect the stainless steel base from being scratched when removed and replaced for cleaning.  It is impossible to keep the stainless base from scratching and maintaining a clean pristine finish.  The cooktop looked aged within a 3 months of use.  An enormous disappointment.\n\n2.  The controls all had different degrees of play and resistance.  Some would turn very easily, other had a high level of resistance.  Also, most of them had up to 0.5cm of loose play from their central spindle.  The extent of play got worse with daily use.  This gave the impression that handles were fragile and constructed of poor quality.\n\n3.  The numbering and lettering for the flame control is of a small font size and not easy to read if you have poor eyesight.  More disappointing was the ease by which the numbering and lettering eventually disappointed with customary cleaning.\n\n4.  The cast iron grates sit too high above the burners, causing a significant time for cooking pans to reach temperature.  The burners were never able to achieve the high temperatures needed to sear meats or make stir fries.  Getting 1 gallon pot of water took over 7 minutes and it took almost 15 minutes to return to boiling, after pasta was added.\n\n5.  The flat cast iron griddle is a great idea, but it is impossible to swap it in and out on a regular basis without scratching the stainless steel base.  The cast iron griddle had recess on one side that was intended to collect drippings and juices from the food for cooking.  The recess was insufficiently deep to collect the juices and would easily overflow.  Also, the griddle did not have a sufficient gradient to force the flow of juices into the recess.  The height above the flame and thickness of the flat cast iron griddle caused the griddle to take a long to heat up and would never reach to necessary temperature to sear steaks\n\n6.  The LED illumination of each control knob is of insufficient intensity to be useful.  The illumination is difficult to see under the lights of a rangehood and from a distance.\n\nOverall:  I ranked this cooktop with the lowest possible rating and is a significant disappointment, relative to its premium price.  This cooktop is constructed with poor quality materials, fragile, cannot withstand even the mildest of wear that comes with general use, and does not achieve the necessary temperatures for cooking.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4037, "id": 483269, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 502, "len_tokens": 662, "text": "The appearance of this range is very upscale. Not just \"professional looking\", but obviously built to higher standards than lower-end models. Looks fantastic in the kitchen. This is a mid-level range, with features placing it in the top of that category.  We've been using it every day for 3 months now.\n\nThe oversized oven window was one of my must-have features. It's very nice, indeed - but the tinted glass and dim interior lighting hampers your visibility somewhat. Perhaps a brighter light bulb will help.\n\nThe 5-element cooktop is perfect for family use. Warming element works great, we use it often. Quick-boil feature definitely heats faster than the other burners, and works really well with small-to-medium size pans/pots. Large pots of boiling water still take awhile, but no worse than a coil-element burner. Elements heat fast, controls are precise. Those familiar with smoothtops will be right at home. Small scratches aren't noticable from a distance, and it usually takes no more than a few minutes for routine cleaning. We still prefer the old salt-and-pepper surface, but this black version cleans up just as easily. It's unforgiving with dust particles, but this doesn't affect cooking performance or require special cleaning.\n\nThe oven is fantastic. Control panel looks a bit daunting, but the basic controls are straightforward. We mastered the layout and display very quickly. The oven status graphic is very useful. Touch controls are smooth, alert beeps are effective without being annoying. Very well designed. The brushed stainless console is easy to clean, a spritz of Windex is all we need for most splatters. The cooktop knobs are very easy to clean, and won't discolor like plastic.\n\nBaking and roasting times are noticably faster. Preheating is fairly quick, but doesn't seem any faster than our old gas oven. The fan is acceptably quiet - puts out a steady humming sound that's neither loud nor obnoxious. Browning ability (ie; a roast) is superb - nice bark on top with even browning - including the bottom. Several features are available for baking/roasting, all helping to insure good results. Everything we've turned out so far has been nearly perfect. Temperature probe and automatic keep-warm work as advertised, and are very useful for daily cooking.\n\nWe've had 3 self-cleaning ranges over the last 27 years, and this one beats 'em all. While experimenting with the broiler, I created a MAJOR greasy mess that covered the cavity and racks. By the time smoke began to pour out, the grease was hopelessly baked on. I did my best to clean up that mess, but it was a lost cause. Didn't expect much from self-clean, but 4 hours later I couldn't believe my eyes. It was sparkling! I did have to soak/scrub the racks, but the oven interior was like brand new. Very, very impressive.\n\nWe feel we got our money's worth. If it proves as durable as professional-grade, this is one sweet bargain.\nUPDATE 7/19/17: After 2.5 years of constant use, still looks and cooks like new. Solid choice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4038, "id": 483352, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 549, "len_tokens": 638, "text": "I wrote this review for the AWN542 - same machine with a slightly different model number.\n\nBefore I review this machine, I want to emphasize that you MUST wipe out the inside of the stainless steel tub when you first get your machine. The tub is coated with a greasy, dusty film that must be wiped off with a spray cleanser/ degreaser and a cloth or paper towel. It took me about 10 minutes before I got the inside of my machine clean. This coating is quite substantial and will not wash off with normal running of the machine. This is mentioned in both the installation manual and the user's manual. (Similarly, the installers ran the matching dryer for 30 minutes to burn off a similar factory coating.) I wonder if some of the writers of the poor reviews had problems because the users did not wipe off this coating.\n\nWe just bought the AWN542 along with its matching dryer at our local independent appliance store. We replaced a set of 20 year old Maytags that had served us well but once the dryer started screeching, we decided to replace them instead of repairing them. I wanted to avoid the fancy front loading machines because of all the complaints I have heard over the years. We looked at simple looking Maytags, Amanas, Whirlpools, etc. but they all looked cheaply made and do have some computerized components that can fail. The higher end machines seemed overly complicated and would have cost at least twice as much as the Speed Queens.\n\nThe salesman at the independent appliance store recommended the Speed Queens. At first, I was skeptical. The Speed Queens looked like the lower end machines to me at first. They are very Plain Jane but my husband was immediately impressed by how much better built they were than the somewhat lower priced Maytags, etc. So we went home to do some research on Speed Queen. We were happy to find so many positive reviews and that they were made in Wisconsin with absolutely no computer boards. As far as I know, there is nothing comparable available for consumers in the United States. We returned to the store an hour later and bought the AWN542 and matching dryer on the spot. We felt the Speed Queen washer and dryer set were moderately priced - somewhat higher than the low end Whirlpool clones but much less than high end front loaders.\n\nI could repeat all the other positive comments. Nice, simple straightforward washing machine that gets clothes clean. There are plenty of options to choose water level, cycle, extra rinse. Nothing fancy or complicated. I have already washed delicates, towels, heavy canvas pants, coats, a large comforter. Everything came out beautifully. I think the extra large water level is fine. I don't feel the need to overload the machine.\n\nThe only thing I might complain about is that the knobs look sort of dumpy at first. They could use a good industrial designer to make them a little more attractive. But they are growing on me. The knobs are actually very sturdy and functional. The black lettering on the plain white is very clear and easy to read so the complaint about the look of the knobs is very superficial and silly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4039, "id": 485306, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 532, "len_tokens": 633, "text": "This was, again, part of a complete kitchen remodel and so far, we've been very happy with it. The unit is made by Dacor and is fairly pricy for what it is, but it was the only unit that fit exactly what we needed and it works!\n\nWe have a GE gas stove in an island in our new kitchen and didn't want to cut a big hole in our roof for an overhead vent which would have also dominated everything so I spent many hours searching for a downdraft solution and this was it.\n\nNow the first thing you might say is that \"Hey, don't these only work with cook tops and not conventional ranges?\". Well, we heard plenty of that but I'm not one who says \"I can't\" but one who says \"How can I?\".\n\nIn general, most pop-up downdraft units do only work with a cook top but that is because the fan is located on the front of the unit making it impossible to place it close to the back of a range. This unit, however, can be used with a remote blower and has a relatively flat front so it can be placed close enough to the back of the range. Along with this I also bought Dacor's remote 1200cfm blower which works great. It really sucks and I mean that in a good way!\n\nAlso, unlike most other pop-up downdraft vents (including other Dacor models), this vent rises to a full 15\" above the counter top. This is important for being able to pull in fumes/steam over pots and pans and to not interfere with the operation of the gas jets of the stove. This has been a problem for Jenn-Air units and has caused many people to dislike downdraft vents. I will say that it works better for pots/pans that are directly in front of the vent but will also work to and extent with pots/pans on the front burners too.\n\nMy favorite thing is watching it slowly rise up from the counter and then turn on the blower when it reaches full height. It makes it fun to show off.... haha.\n\nWith all of that said, this isn't an inexpensive solution to venting a stove on an island, but then again, neither is having a contractor cut a hole in the roof that may or may not get sealed properly. Also, I had the means to cut a strip of stainless steel to fill the gap between the back of the stove and the front of the vent (about 2 1/4\" wide). We have a crawl space under the house that allowed me to run the ductwork there so if you don't have that available, this option would not work for you.\n\nDacor does sell a range that actually goes with this vent, but we preferred the features of the GE over the Dacor so it was good to know that we could make this work.\n\nI was able to do a lot of the work myself which wasn't easy but possible so if anyone has questions on our installation, I would be happy to answer them.\n\nI recommend this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4040, "id": 486073, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 486, "len_tokens": 602, "text": "January 10, 2014, 8:31 A.M.\n\nNote this Unit was installed on 6-29-2013. It replaced a similar Maytag D.W. ( with similar features ) that was used for seven years at the same location.  I also checked the lower spray wash spinner that is included in one of the pictures and it was working.\n\nOn 1-8-2014, I ran the Lemi Shine thru the dishwasher on the heavy cycle ( D.W. was empty ) . I added one package of the Lemi Shine in the bottom of the dishwasher per instructions. I noticed that the water was about to be discharged so I disconnected the hose at the disposal and collected it into a 5 gal pail. So I added another package of the Lemi S. and added back the first batch. I then waited 1 hour to let the solution remain on the bottom. I had noticed that the water level was very low and there was very little spray action during the prewash cycle. I concluded that I might be short of wash water, so I added more water to bring the level to the maximum level at the door without spilling over. I cycled on Heavy Duty Cycle and each time the water drained out into the bucket I re-added it to the dishwasher over a two time hour period.\n\nToday, 1-9-2014 A.M., I just cycled the washer thru the Quick Cycle ( no additives, just plain city water ). I noted the amount of water that was discharged after the first wash cycle. I collected in and it is in the 2 liter green full bottle and 24 oz. clear half full bottles, in the picture. (Sorry,  I could not down load at this time, I will try again at a later time)  So altogether about 80 ounces of liquid. I also have the water that I used with the Lemi Shine in the labeled two gallon bottles, a little less than 2 gallons. I had poured some of the solution back into the dishwasher to soak over night. I did notice that even going thru the Quick Wash Cycle with no detergent that I was still getting a lot of bubbles and foam. Apparently the water was still cleaning out the pump and water lines in the dishwasher.\nI am not sure how the dishwasher will perform after the next regular washing cycle. We pre-wash by hand all dishes and rinse them prior to loading them in the washer. We do not add any soiled dishes or place settings to compound the washing cycle. Note this Unit was installed on 6-29-2013.  It replaced a similar Maytag D.W. that was used for seven years at the same location.\nNote:  I am a retired manufacturing engineer and write reviews often that appear on Amazon.com and other web sites.  I will update this review in the near future.  I hope that my reviews help out others making purchasing decisions.  Thank you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4041, "id": 486936, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 530, "len_tokens": 658, "text": "\"Overfill Protection: Do-It-Yourself Guide to Correcting Possible Overfill Condition\"\n\n This is the PDF that Asko will email you when you call about why the drain motor in your Asko dishwasher won't stop. It's not model specific, it's for Asko dishwashers in general.\n\n* Google \"Asko drain keeps running\" or something like that and read the forums to verify the following:\n\n Even though the dishwasher appears to work properly and drain normally, Asko somehow routes \"overfill\" water as they call it, beneath the washing compartment to a \"pan\" in the cabinet base. When too much water accumulates, the drain motor just keeps running. IT DOES NOTHING to empty the \"overfill\" water,  it just keeps running until guess who drains it.\n\n \"Why doesn't the pump drain the overfill water as well as the \"normal\" water?\", you may ask. As with computer software, per Asko it is a feature, not a bug. Here's my experience, but check other forums to validate how common this problem is:\n\n * Lay down on the floor and remove the kick plate. Then use your right angle Torx wrenches to remove the \"protection\" plate -  right angle because some screws face upward and a standard Torx driver will be too long.\n\n* The PDF says use a sponge or towel to absorb the water. A towel would never fit under my Asko dishwasher. The largest opening I could find is partially blocked by the front cabinet support leg and a cable to the rear which adjusts the rear height. I could just barely push a small sponge through with a spatula, push down on the sponge with the spatula to soak up water and then pull out the sponge with the spatula.\n\nSqueeze and repeat. I did this about two dozen times. It is just as much fun as it sounds. I decided not to replace the \"protection\" plate as I did not wish to relive the Torx experience next time this happened. And happen again, it did. (My cabinetry mop board secures the bottom opening without replacing the Asko plates).\n\n* This time I drove to Harbor Freight to buy an $8 hand liquid transfer pump, all the while asking myself why Asko can't put in a drain pump that drains the \"overfill\" water so I wouldn't have to be driving to Harbor Freight to buy a hand liquid transfer pump.\n\n With two people holding the thing in place, again of course, back on the floor, the pump worked. But all the while we used the hand liquid transfer pump we asked the question you should be asking before you buy an Asko dishwasher:\n\n Why doesn't the Asko pump drain the \"overfill\" water so that you won't have to spend your time on the floor with a sponge and spatula, or drive to Harbor Freight for a hand liquid transfer pump?\n\n I've owned Profiles and Monograms and Kenmores and KitchenAids and other much more modestly priced dishwashers and have never had to drive to Harbor Freight to buy a hand liquid transfer pump to get my dishwasher going.\n\nThe Asko design does not seem to be a great design.\n\n I hope this might help someone.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4042, "id": 488416, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 535, "len_tokens": 663, "text": "If I could I would give this ZERO stars!  This is my second go-round with this exact model (originally purchased through Lowe's).  When the first one failed to clean the dishes (sometimes they looked like we didn't even turn the thing on after a cycle, it was that bad) we wanted to return it to the store under warranty.  Since it was only 3 months after purchase they sent out a GE repairman who treated me like Ihad never owned a dishwasher before.  I'm nearly 56 - this is not my first dishwasher rodeo, Mistah!  He blamed me for every issue as follows:\n1.  Our water wasn't hot enough - though we had it set at 125 degrees he said his thermometer was only registering it at 120.  We proved was set higher but we set it to 130 degrees.  He said we needed to run the hot water to maximum temp before turning on the dishwasher so that \"the tub did not cool the water off.\"  (Um...doesn't that defeat the purpose of \"energy\" efficient?)\n2.  We did not use the right dishwaster detergent...apparently ONLY Cascade Platinum with Dawn will work with this dishwasher and ONLY JetFinish rinse aid.\n3.  If we rinsed our dishes of major particles before putting in the dishwasher, then the reason they weren't getting clean is because there was nothing for the soap to \"stick to\"...HUH?  (Now that's a new one -  I wonder if GE has scientifically proven that clean dishes will not get cleaner in a dishwasher?)\n4.  If we used the steam option, the temp boost option or the sani rinse option, it will only \"cook\" the food onto the dishes and make it harder for the unit to clean them properly.  (Then why do they have those options if you aren't supposed to use them, I asked.  \"Because that is only for commercial applications when you need to sanitize the dishes to get rid of bacteria,\" he replied.  \"I didn't know this was a commercial grade dishwasher and so it must be my misconception that this is sold as a residential kitchen dishwasher and that normal kitchens don't have problems with bacteria.\"  (That earned me a stupid, blank stare.)\n5.  The and kicker...it would be better if we ran the dishwasher at night before we went to bed because if we started up the cycle, then used the cold water in the kitchen sink, that would also reduce the hot water temperature and prevent the dishes from getting clean.\n\nBut...for the heck of it...I made all the changes he recommended, took pictures of the still dirty dishes and Lowe's was nice enough to offer me the option of either getting a full refund or an exchange.\n\nSo...I exchanged it.  It was nice and quiet (that's the one star) and I thought perhaps GE had just produced a lemon, which happens to everyone occasionally.  Last month I had it installed.  Nope.  Just today I decided I have tolerated a ramping up of the same problems I had with the last one, even though I am still implementing the recommendations of the GE repairman.\n\nThis IS the worst appliance I ever owned in my entire life.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4043, "id": 488554, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 556, "len_tokens": 681, "text": "After putting up with the stove that came with our house for over 15 years we figured we had waited long enough and bought the BOSH HDS7052U Evolution 700.  Ease of cleaning was mission one with us as the 1970's pea soup green :-[ stove we had was designed by men who obviously never had to clean one.  It had more cracks, crevasse, holes and indentations than the Grand Canyon.  A slick stainless steel top with sealed burners and an easy wipe back was a must.  And having the control knobs set on the front, out of the way of potential spills, was a plus.  We didn't want the oblong center burner, the banana we called it, either.  It would be of little use to us and another place for food to trap.  The BOSH looked to be the best one at a price under two grand.  So we pulled the trigger and got the BOSH.  Every once in a while you make a decision that was clearly the best one. This was one of those times for us.  It's more than just a stove; it's an elegant well designed, useful piece of equipment.  There are a number of food preparation tasks you can do.  If you bake bread, like we do, you'll find the proofing mode indispensable.  It can also be use to make yogurt.  We've make beef jerky with the food dehydrator mode and the bottom warming drawer is really useful for keeping foods warm when preparing meals that contain several elements. There are four burner sizes and we use them all.  And when you need to simmer something like rice, we cook a lot of rice, you just turn the knob all the way to the right until it stops and you got a perfect low flame for simmering. With our old stove it was a pain because too far and the flame would go out.  The convection roasting mode is great for boneless skinless chicken breast as it will cook them without drying the meat out.  I use to think that the whole oven convection cooking thing was a bit of a gimmick.  Boy, was I was wrong.  Foods cook faster and more even.  And with the convection roasting mode this stove offers, you get heat from the back and bottom which is then circulated by the convection fan. That's true euro convection cooking.\n\nFor cleaning, there are 2 stove top grates that are a snap to remove for accessing the stainless bottom.  The back is an easy wipe glass display panel. Inside the oven the bottom is removable to get right down to the burners if you need to or to bring it to the sink for cleaning.  The oven lights, there are two of them, automatically come on when the door is opened.  This unit has the self cleaning oven feature but we have not needed to use it just yet.  We've had this stove for two months now and the only improvement I can think of is wheels for when you want to pull it away from the wall to clean behind the stove.  As a contractor I've seen a lot of high end stoves over the years doing kitchen remodels, like the Viking line, but you can't beat this Bosh for the money.\n\nHappy cooking and good eating.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4044, "id": 488622, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 500, "len_tokens": 641, "text": "Purchased this item brand new from Lowe's, end of January 2013.  This is my first washer/dryer combo with no center wash agitator.\n\nWhen the machine is running properly, it's fantastic.  The wash cycle is significantly quieter than other machines I've used.  The knob selections leave you with very limited options as far as being able to influence the actual wash duration.  I've noticed that the \"normal\" wash cycle typically takes up to an hour, which is significantly longer than other machines I've used.\n\nThe spin cycle on this machine is another story... It may very well be that I have a faulty machine, but when doing larger, heavier loads (i.e. towels, blankets) the machine gets extremely finicky.  Sometimes it will run smoothly, but the majority of the time, it makes horrific clanging noises as if the wash bin is loose and thrashing around inside the machine, and the entire unit shakes and rattles wildly.  Doing \"normal\" loads (shirts, pants etc.), I can load the machine to 80% capacity and it usually runs okay.  But with heavier loads, if it's not under 50% capacity, the machine goes berserk.\n\nI even had an authorized repairman take a look at the machine.  He opened up the front panel and examined the machine under load and could not locate the source of the clanging noise.\n\nAnother limitation of the machine are the knob selections.  For example, \"rinse\" and \"spin\" are a single selection.  You can't just run the spin cycle to wring wet clothes, you are forced to run the clothes through a rinse cycle as well.  This of course caused problems for myself and the repairman trying to trouble shoot the spin cycle because now we had to wait 10 minutes for the rinse cycle to complete...\n\nPausing the machine mid-cycle for any reason is also a no-no.  Pushing the button to halt machine operation (for example, if the machine is banging around during spin cycle) will pause the machine, shortly after which it \"resets\" the cycle.  So for example, if you pause the machine with 10 minutes remaining in the wash cycle, and you let it sit too long (3-5 minutes?), when you \"resume\" the wash cycle, it will just start all over again.\n\nRegarding the lint trap itself is very small and clogs quickly.  Is this a limitation of the dryer or are my clothes just linty? :p  If the trap gets fully clogged, I would recommend clearing it and running the dryer cycle for a few more minutes or so in order to catch remaining lint.\nAlso, the dryer door has a spring in it which causes the door to close slowly when opened. This is extremely irritating when trying to put clothes into or take clothes out of the dryer.\n\nPROS: Quiet operation (when it's working properly)\nCONS: Noisy spin cycle (when it' not working properly), lack of options on the knob turn dials, small lint trap, dryer door automatically closes.\n\nI will try to post a video shortly.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4045, "id": 489499, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 552, "len_tokens": 699, "text": "This company has received a lot of bad publicity.  My question to you that believe these reviews, would this company be able to command such a high initial cost if they weren't manufacturing a premium product?  This is my 3rd European dishwasher.  My first two were made in Germany.  This is my first Scandinavian.  I made my decision based on the flexibility of interior and capacity.  My last dishwasher was top of the line and came in at a price of $1899.  I was doing dishes everyday.  The new one I'm finding I don't have to run this every other day or every 3rd day.  Now that's capacity.  There are actually four levels in this machine.  A top basket (small) to put sharp knives.  An adjustable full width and depth rack that you can actually put tall mugs in, lower a shelf and stack regular sized cups or on the rocks glasses.  The shelf that drops down also holds stemmed glasses as well.  The center basket is a real bonus.  It can accomodate shallow bowls or fry pans on one side as it has it's own spray system, the other side is removable or can be used for odd shaped kitchen tools, spatulas, wooden spoons, etc.  The lower basket holds a bevy of dishes and/or deeper pots and pans, & silverware.  There are an additional two spray zones on the bottom of the tub to concentrate on pots and pans.  The racks all have so much flexibility.  There is not much that you're not able to fit in here, in fact I would say nothing.  Now my German made machines were nice, but they relied on extra racks to make them flexible.  Racks that you have to store when not in use, racks that never saw the interior of my machine because it was such a pain to get them out.  My German machines were very reliable, but the difference between my first and my second, the stainless was so THIN as they began to cheapen their products.  This machine is very robust. the Stainless Steel is 18/9.  That's pretty heavy gauged metal.  My first German machine had a mechanical timer, that were push button engaged.  My second was touch (which relied on the heat of your finger to activate) The Asks has hidden buttons on the top of the door.  The control is all solid state, not mechanical.  The ONE & ONLY thing I would add to my ASKO is a light that shines on the floor as my 2nd German machine had.  I miss it, but I can live without it given the flexibility and capacity of my new machine.  It was very easy to install as were my German machines.  I'm a firm believer you get what you pay for.  So I'm hoping that all the reviews I've read were people that bought lesser machines by ASKO and expected top shelf performance.  In my lifetime I've had six dishwashers.  3 American made, 3 European.  The American produced machines were VERY troublesome.  They were all top of the line machines, but at that time America hadn't embraced Stainless Steel tubs.  The racks were pathetic and usually began to rust sometime between their 2nd and 3rd year.  I've yet to replace a European made rack because of poor quality and rust.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4046, "id": 490437, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 578, "len_tokens": 680, "text": "Did not fit my model LRSC26920TT, but I made it work with common tools. Note that the tabs are off-set, and not necessarily too large for the holes, so you will need to file the tabs down on the sides shown with the arrows. Don't file down just any side, and don't file down both sides of one tab.*** Here we go. Start with a nail file [I used a metal cosmetic nail file, but you can probably also use an emery board]. 1). Shave down about 2 mm from the \"outer side\" of the tabs [Note -the pic here shows only about 1 mm shaved down -- you need to shave away up to 1/3 of the tab and only shave down on the side of the tab shown under the arrows]. Do this in the same manner on the corresponding two tabs on the other side of the  funnel. 2).Then [not shown, and this is optional] shave a tiny bit off the \"nose\" of the hook of the tab so it is slightly rounded, being careful not to shave down too much. Two to three gentle passes of the file is enough. 3). Briefly use a flashlight to get the lay of the land, then position the four funnel tabs into the tab holes [shown in pic 2]  and see / feel whether they are falling into place. 4) Employing serious gusto, push the two tabs from one side [I did the left side first] until you hear/ feel it snap into place. For the other side, you will position the remaining tabs into place and then use a flat head screwdriver or similar object to put precise pressure under one of the last two tabs, and push it into place [I selected the  NE tab from my perspective facing the fridge since I could see that one best]. When you get that third tab in, the last tab will likely pop in along with it. ***These last two steps may be frustrating since the funnel is not going to snap in too easy and so you will be wondering if you shaved off enough of the tabs. As a rule of thumb, DO NOT file down more than 1/3 of the tab. And, do not remove too much of the tab \"nose\" -- that step might not even be needed but I feel that it helped somewhat to get the tabs to snap in place since I don't have a lot of hand strength. Note that I took the picture of the shaved tabs before I did the final filing, so go a bit further than what I am showing. I ultimately shaved the tab down to about where the blue dots are [no need to shave *below* the dots, keep that bit there for stability].*** Finally  [or firstly,], if you want to verify that you have the off-set tab problem before you go shaving down anything, take a piece of scotch tape and run it along the frame with the two holes [pic 2], press so that you get an outline of the holes and the corners, then remove the tape and compare the outline of the hole placement on the tape to the tabs on the funnel being sure to visualize how you will place the funnel in relation to the holes. Doing this is how I determined where to do the filing of the tabs. Hope this helps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4047, "id": 490490, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 403, "len_tokens": 610, "text": "Chances are that if you're reading this, you've already figured out one of the possibilities of your LG washing machine not operating\ncorrectly is this part. If not, I found this professional online resource very handy for diagnostics: [...]\n\nHere's what happened to me and the fix:\n\n  Our LG WM2455WH is 5 1/12 years old and started to take longer for the wash cycles to complete. One day, we noticed a severe delay--over 2 hours to complete a normal cycle of 50 minutes. One day, the machine would not even power up. Using info from the link above, I tore into the machine and performed the diagnostic tests on the noise diffuser (this washing machine is a very simple device and easy to work on if you're a DIY'er). The old diffuser seemed to test OK according to the specs from the technician, but I still ordered a new one.\n\nNOTE: The P/N on the old diffuser read \"6201EC1006A\" so I was unsure if this part would be an exact replacement. I got a hold of LG's online chat and they confirmed the difference in the part suffix only refers to the unique manufacturer of the part (they must have multiple manufacturers for their parts--I saw one LG noise diffuser referenced with \"L\"----supposedly that P/N superceded  the original \"A\" part).\n\nThe LED light on the main circuit board wasn't lit, and I suspecting it also may be faulty I ordered it as well (P/N EBR32268002 'PCB ASSEMBLY,MAIN'#.\n\nI proceeded to install both parts and the washing machine came back to life and worked perfectly! I still wondered if I needed the new noise filter assembly, so I swapped the old one in and even though it powered up, the wash cycles didn't work correctly as before.\n\n#Maybe# an upgrade on this new part compared to the original is a built-in fuse for added protection? Even so, I read that it may be a good idea to add surge protection so I changed my wall receptacle to&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Leviton-5280-W-15-Amp-125-Volt-Decora-Plus-Duplex-Surge-Suppressor-Receptacle-Straight-Blade-Industrial-Grade-Self-Grounding-White/dp/B0006I33Y6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Leviton 5280-W 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Decora Plus Duplex Surge Suppressor Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Self Grounding, White</a>. This gives me peace of mind that perhaps I won't have to do this job again.\n\nAs always, the Amazon ordering, fulfillment & customer experience is great! I hope you have as much success fixing\nyour machine as I did. Good Luck!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4048, "id": 494303, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 580, "len_tokens": 680, "text": "We just replaced an older Maytag dishwasher that was in the house when we moved in 7 years ago - and was 5 to 10 years old at that time. It never did a good job washing the dishes. Left food inside the cups, and on any bowl, dish or cup that was around the edges or in the corner. It was common for white water stains to coat a dish or bowl front and back, with no apparent rhyme or reason - dishes on either side, with the same food remnants, would be clean. I had to service the latch handle twice and replaced the drain valve/pump assembly and various rubber fittings. I stopped short of buying a new washer motor and decided to move on. At least we kept it going for 7 years...\n\nSo with no brand loyalty whatsoever I found this one and chose it because it was the least expensive option for a stainless-door, super-quiet dishwasher.\n\nSo far we are incredibly happy with this thing. The dishes come out completely clean; glasses are crystal clear; even a tall, narrow cup standing upright in the corner of the top rack comes out 100% perfectly clean, no water spots, no food. We have a busy house, four kids, and so we've been running around 10 loads per week for two weeks. So far the only dish that came out with food was a piece of thin mango that had dried solidly on a plate for two days before going in the dishwasher. It was already hardened on its way in. Believe me, with all these little kids, a LOT of rotten milk cups, gross plates, food makes it in the dishwasher. This dishwasher plows through ALL of it with aplomb. We have a relatively small house with an open kitchen / dining / living area in the back area; we couldn't run the old dishwasher while we were doing anything in the back. Had to wait until it was bedtime (then close all the doors around the back area so it wouldn't wake up the babies), or just before we're all leaving the house. It would even compete with the TV turned up. This one we can do any time. Even in a completely silent room, it barely registers a low hum standing in the kitchen or sitting at the table, and almost nothing from the couch. Quiet music of TV and there's nothing - just nothing.\n\nAll of which is to say, it does what it it's supposed to do (clean dishes) VERY well, and very quietly. You just can't ask for better. I do not know whether we could have spent $200 less and come away with an equally functional, but louder dishwasher. Possibly so. But what I CAN say is, the combination of extremely effective washing and extremely quiet operation makes this one a clear good choice to \"splurge\".\n\nThe only negative I have about it is that the handle grip is plastic and feels very flimsy. They should have it with a skeleton of honeycomb plastics or, better yet, a metal frame, that would feel much more solid. The plastic, as it is, flexes a bit when you pull the door open, and doesn't feel as solidly constructed as you'd hope.\n\nI do not yet know about its durability since, as I mentioned, it's only a couple of weeks old - but I will come back after some time and report on that.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4049, "id": 494977, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 542, "len_tokens": 641, "text": "Before I give my two cents on this range, I will say that our home builder chose the appliances in our new home and I had never heard of Bertazzoni before that. I'm a huge \"research everything before you buy\" type person so this was a big deal. I cook pretty much every day and bake breads every week so the oven is probably the most important part of the kitchen for me. At first sight, I loved the look of it. Truly a beautiful appliance. I had never had an oven that didn't have any digital displays like a timer and all that, but I was pleasantly surprised at how quickly I adapted to that and now I prefer it this way. Also, mine is gas, if that matters to anyone. Now on to the pros and cons:\n\nPros:\n-The cook-top is definitely this ovens strong point. Things heat up so quickly and I love the different functions each burner has.\n-Super easy to clean. Everything comes apart, grates, caps, under caps, the oven door and you can even separate the glass for deeper cleaning.\n-The cooling fan when the oven is on. It seems other reviewers were annoyed by it saying it is over loud, but I don't feel like it's all that bad. No, it isn't quiet, but it really doesn't bother me. We have a pretty big kitchen with an open floor plan though so that might be why.\n-Thermacouple. At first I found this annoying because it clicks for soooo long, but it keeps from walking by the burner dials and accidentally turning them on. My SO hates it though because he has a habit of leaning on the stove and he gets annoyed when he sets it off lol.\n\nCons:\n-The iron grates on the range are beautiful and easy to clean, but they scratch the crap out of the stainless steel. My cooktop is all scratched up now from just setting them grates in after cleaning.\n-As others have said, the oven really doesn't cook evenly. The left side of my oven is always the hotter side. I do always have to rotate whatever is in there. It doesn't really bother me since I always watch my food and do this anyway. If you are a \"set it and forget it\" type cook, you may have a hard time.\n-The rack positions seem odd to me. The way they are spaced out in there, makes it kind of difficult to bake a few things at once that are different sizes.\n-It isn't deep enough for a lot of cookie sheets to set in there \"portrait style\" side by side. My solution was that I just bought a few half sheets.\n\nOverall, I'm very pleased with range, but some things will bother people and other things won't. The last thing to keep in mind is that this oven really isn't for beginner cooks or people that don't like to cook. It really doesn't have any features that make cooking easy. You have to watch everything and have a feel for it. If you like to pop a casserole in the oven, set your timer and not come back until it beeps, then this isn't for you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4050, "id": 495136, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 520, "len_tokens": 606, "text": "I wish I could leave a better review, but I really can't because AKDY's support is NON-EXISTENT.\n\nThe fan arrived on time and the item works well. As other reviewers have stated, the instructions are horrible. You will spend a lot of time trying to figure out what to do on your own.\n\nSome of the screws that I had to remove and then re-screw back in (due to the poor instructions making no sense) stripped out, but fortunately I had other screws that I could use in their place. The main issue is that this thing has two control panels, but only one of them works. I figured I might have gotten a defective product, and so I called AKDY's customer support. This was on the 2nd of January, and the option for \"customer support\" went straight to voicemail. I figured maybe they were closed that day, and so I called the next day, and still the same result. So I went onto their website and filled out the support form. When you click the submit button, nothing happens, and so you don't know if they got your message or not. I got no automated response in my email, and as far as I can guess the customer support page doesn't actually fill out out a ticket with them. Then after a few days of still seeing nothing in my email,  I called them again and this time while the phone didn't go to voicemail, it just rang and rang. I want to note that their business hours are located on their website and every time I called I was well within those hours of operation. Then on the 9th of January I wrote them an email directly instead of using their webpage, and as of the 18th, I still have gotten no response from them.\n\nAKDY, you should just put on your page that \"If you need help with a defective item, too bad. We don't care,\" because at least then you'd be honest. From what I gather, your customer support department doesn't really exist, and your webpage and phone number for them are just for show.\n\nOne of two of the control panels still works, and while the range hood looks and works well itself, I can't leave any higher a review than one star. As you can see from the picture, only one of two panels lights up and is operable.\n\nUPDATE: After writing this review I finally got in touch with their warranty department. Not because they finally responded to email or the request that I submitted on their website, but because I kept calling them and finally someone picked up. They sent the parts (took almost two weeks) but now the problem has been resolved. So I guess the only real way to get your product fixed is to keep calling them during their business hours and just hope someone answers. Changing this review to two stars, but regardless I would still advise going with a different brand. If I ever need another range hood I will definitely go with a different manufacturer.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4051, "id": 496710, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 552, "len_tokens": 666, "text": "This dishwasher has a fatal flaw.  I have to try and shut the door anywhere from 4 to 6 times before it latches.  Then maybe two to three times during the wash the door pops open.  So you just can't start a wash and leave.  The repair man has been here three times because when the door does not totally latch properly the dishwasher will not drain.  The first time he came we thought it was the drain pump.  The second service call he realized the door was causing the problem.  By the third time GE had issued a bulletin and he replaced a lot of door parts.  GE's website says that you may have problems with the door but be patient and after about 15 washes the door should settle in properly.  Well I'm up to 24 washes and today I thought I'd never get it to latch.  I am calling again.  The sad part is that this washer is so quiet and when it works it does a beautiful job of cleaning and drying the dishes.  Best washer we've ever had BUT the door latch problem overrides all that.  I want a replacement.  Wish they still had a mechanical latch system.  I cannot recommend this washer.\n\nUpdate 10/14/15  Service person came out for 5th visit.  Was replacing the door module.  Called me in and said` he could not get the door to latch but had called GE and GE was going to get me a new dishwasher.  He gave me a case number and while he was there I called GE and for sure they confirmed it was a go and would have the trade out info for me in two business days.  First let me say that I am dealing with one of the most reputable Appliance Dealers in Tucson, Christie's Appliance.  Second the service tech was always on time and courteous and tried his darndest to fix it.  This appliance dealer's service department is a designated GE service company for Tucson area.  I am very pleased with this reaction from GE.  I guess it paid to be patient and have the service company prove the dishwasher was unfixable.\n\nI am going to get the same washer.  When it worked it was absolutely the best and most quiet I've ever had.  Plus since this is one of the most popular models and after doing research on the GE website the percentage of washers with this problem was very low. I also searched Consumer reports reviews on all their dishwashers and wow every one is having some sort of problem so I will roll the dice.  If there is a problem with the replacement I will update again.\n\nIn the past I had a terrible experience with Whirlpool and an over the range Microwave.  They sent out 11 service visits, I'm not kidding, they even tried different service companies, the last tech said that the Micro was dangerous and not to use it and that they would be contacting Whirlpool.  One week later we checked with Whirlpool and Whirlpool said the service tech told them he fixed it and all was fine.  We had no choice buy to replace it at our expense.  That's the difference with an honest repair company and one that's afraid to make the manufacturer upset.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4052, "id": 497059, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 580, "len_tokens": 676, "text": "When my Jenn Air convection wall oven finally died, I began the search for a replacement. After having 3 touchpads fail in the time I owned it, I was not looking for another Jenn Air. I had already replaced my Jenn Air ceramic cook top with a Kenmore one, which has been excellent, and my Jenn Air microwave with a GE Profile model, which is the best such device I have ever used. However, since Consumer Reports rated the Whirlpool oven the best, I looked at it first. Two things drove me away: the noise issue and the slow preheat reported by many. Since there is often a big difference in the reviews by magazines and those by people who actually live with the product, I place more value on the latter, at least when they are thoughtfully given. Noise is a big issue for my wife, and whether it was a quality control issue (some being quiet enough, others noisy), or just some owners being more sensitive to noise than others, it seemed like a bad risk either way for us. We are sensitive to noise, and I don't care to play games of chance with such an expensive item. So we reluctantly gravitated to the more expensive GE, which at least would match the GE Microwave which sits above the oven. Also I hoped that the extra cost was for better quality components (like fans) and a robust build quality.\nSo far I am impressed. The new wall ovens have concealed bottom elements, which makes keeping them clean with a simple wiping down with dish detergent or vinegar a very easy task. This almost certainly means a slightly longer preheat time, however. Nevertheless, where my Jenn Air took around 10 minutes to reach 350 degrees, the GE took less than 13 minutes. Not a bad trade off in my opinion. The temperature actually reached was 352 on my Fluke thermocouple. This oven automatically adjusts the temperature when using convection, and does so differently when you choose single rack baking or multi rack. My Fluke showed temperature control to be excellent.  It is also very quiet in my experience. Off course, when turned off the fan will continue to run for quite a while. As with my old Jenn Air, I simply leave door open until it cools off to speed up the process. But in this case not because of excess noise, but because I am just fussy about using more power than I need to.\nBeing a bread maker, a feature of the old Jenn Air I really liked was the ability to set the temperature as low as 100 degrees. This was great for proofing bread and making yogurt. Most ovens don't allow you to set a temp below 170 degrees  a bad idea in my opinion. This oven, however, has a proof setting which gets around this. Also leaving the oven light on in an oven once it is around 100 degrees will usually keep it just right for making yogurt or rising dough.\nSo far this oven meets my expectations. I installed it myself, so I can confirm that it feels solid and well made. It is quiet and the controls are easy to use. Time alone will tell how durable and reliable it proves to be. But I will continue to update this review, as it can be very difficult trying to decide among such expensive items with so little shared information available.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4053, "id": 497251, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 506, "len_tokens": 603, "text": "This review will hopefully help somebody not have to wade through the internet for a long time and thus shorten the repair process. We have a Frigidaire dual fuel  range GLCS389EQB that suddenly stopped heating. We initially thought it could be the bottom element which brought us to this page since the other sources online appeared to be cheaper but when one factored in shipping, Amazon was almost the same price thus it was easier to order since all the info is already in Amazon for shipping and payments.\n\nWe received the element and replaced the old element only to find that the oven still did not work. We could have returned this element but felt that a range that is almost 10 years old could use a new element so we kept it. Since the element was new, the next logical source of the problem was the control unit. Although I could not find a source out there that indicated this, I found that the control unit is not cheap. In fact, it is $243.32 with shipping direct from Electrolux (Frigidaire's parent company). Ordering was easily done via the telephone and the cost was almost identical to many of the part places online.\n\nThe control unit came but had no instructions. Using the online manuals that are available, it was relatively easy to see how this needed to replaced. I have included some pictures for the DIYers out there to help save you the cost of a repair service call. The most difficult part was the removal of the wiring harness on the control board. A small screwdriver was needed to slightly pry the plastic back to remove the harness. The other curious part was the ribbon wiring which had a locking system that needed to be lifted up to release the ribbon and pushed down to lock the ribbon back in place.\n\nThe entire job took less than 15 minutes. Be sure to unplug the stove. Also, it made sense to snap a picture before you remove the wires to be sure you put them back in the same place. While we were at it, we were able to clean the almost 10 years of cooking crap that collected. Fortunately, it was not too bad. Good design by Frigidaire IMHO. We love this range and felt that a simple $325 investment was cheaper than buying a new range. Not paying for a service call made this a no brainer.\n\nHopefully those who have problems with their Frigidaire dual fuel range model GLCS389EQB will find this page. Good luck!\n\nBTW- the part number for the control panel is 316418731 CLOCK/TIMER, ELECTRONIC, ES510 and the phone number for Eletrolux is 800-599-7569. It is best to give them the model number of your range and they will tell you the part. The customer service rep stated that the likely cause of the lack of heat is first the element and then the control panel in that order.\n\nAlso, this element fit perfectly and arrived very quickly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4054, "id": 497267, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 523, "len_tokens": 614, "text": "I have needed to replace this panel more than three times for the exact same reason. SHORTED buttons. The original panel lasted about 4 years. BUT I needed to remove the panel from the dishwasher and use a vacuum cleaner on blower to blow air through the one air hole near the vent. This seems to have dried any moisture temporarily and made the panel run good for a couple of washes before repeating the procedure (Pain in the neck). Finally, the short would not go away. I reordered both the Console panel and control panel. The dishwasher was good for about a year. Then I started getting shorting button symptoms (Blinking lights on the console) again.\n\n According to a website the best way to determine if it is the control board or electronic console that is bad is by doing the following:\nA rapidly blinking LED over one of the keys of the keypad (or sometimes a dead keypad/console)\n\nindicates one or more key switch lines are stuck or shorted on either the control or the keypad.\n\nTo determine if the control or keypad is faulty, do the following test:\n\n1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.\n\n2. Open the dishwasher door.\n\n3. Open console and disconnect the green keypad ribbon connection from the control (at P1).\n\nMake sure all other connections are made.\n\n4. Put console back together. Do not close the dishwasher door.\n\n5. Plug in dishwasher or reconnect power.\n\n6. Wait 5 seconds.\n\n7. Close dishwasher door.\n\n8. Monitor the controls response:\n\nIf the control is OK (no longer sees shorts with the keypad unplugged),\n\nit will respond by turning on a Drain Motor for 2 minutes.\n\nCheck and/or replace the keypad if the control responds OK.\n\nIf the control is not OK (still sees shorts with the keypad unplugged),\n\nthen the drain motor will NOT respond and will remain off.\n\nIf no response, replace the control.\n\nEvery Time it indicated a shorted or open Electronic console.  I reordered a new one. Lasted two weeks. Returned it to Sears Parts. They send me another under Warranty. Installed it and it is working great again.\n\nI contacted Whirlpool.com about this problem. It is obviously a engineering problem. What I believe is happening is that the console has two AIR holes on it that allows air to circulate through the electronic membrane switches inside the console. One is located near the Vent and the other is located under the Control board. When the dishwasher is working, it produces either steam or very high water saturated air which is being expelled through the vent. Unfortunately, this contaminated air is being circulated through the membrane metallic switches. They are very thin so they will easily corrode and short or possibly open when the switch is pressed externally. The hole near the Vent, on the new console, I covered with tape hoping to lessen the amount of air going through since one hole is covered. I hoping this will prevent contaminated air from entering the console and destroying the delicate metallic membrane switches.\n\nWill update if this works for longer than a year.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4055, "id": 500215, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 508, "len_tokens": 626, "text": "ORIGINAL:  When the burners on top work right, they are great.  The front left gets a little funky and we had to have ours replaced.  But that would just merit a star off.\n\nThe problem is the oven.  It's a convection oven, so it should be much more even heating that a regular gas oven.  Unfortunately, it is not.  Temperature in the oven can vary by more than 100 degree from one area to the next.  So forget about baking anything precisely.  We have resorted to rotating items both between racks and facing multiple directions, during any baking.  Very disappointing.\n\nUPDATE:  We were using the convection setting incorrectly.  Even though it sounded like the convection fan was on, if the light inside the oven is OFF, then the convection fan is not actually working.  You have to turn the knob for the light to the RIGHT, and the second fan, (not the one you hear at first) goes on and the light stays on the whole time.  This means:  If the light is off, the convection feature is NOT enabled and you will get uneven heating.  Note that it is possible to turn the light on without the convection feature too, so just because the light is on, does not mean the convection feature is working.  But the opposite is true.  If you think you are using the convection feature and there is no light on inside the oven, you are wrong.  We were wrong :)\n\nORIGINAL: The one (other?) odd feature of the fan/oven is that this thing blows out lots of hot air into the room while the oven is on -- I mean, standing in front of it is like standing in front of a heater vent sending out heat on a cold day.  It makes summer baking out of the question.\n\nBut it does look very good, sitting in the kitchen and people oogle it.  I just tell them, if you get one, get one with an electric oven.  I'd hope (but don't know) that it works better.  Honestly, the $200 generic gas oven we had in our college apt was better for baking than this one :(\n\nUPDATE:  After a few months, got some better info from Bertazonni's representative.  There are a separate set of instructions they use in training their folks about how to use the oven -- things not covered in the user manual -- in terms of adjusting temperature for use with the convection settings, etc.  These have helped us get some better performance in the oven for baking.  I'm still testing all of them out, but so far it is working better, so I have added a couple of stars.\n\nI am still leaving off one star because of the faulty burner I got at first and the strange convection light.  But the warranty replacement burner has worked fine, so that's good customer service.  And having to keep the light on is weird and counter intuitive and probably a bit wasteful -- but at least the convection feature works!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4056, "id": 503876, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 398, "len_tokens": 610, "text": "I can't tell you how impressed I am with this company \"Kobe's\" customer service.  You always worry about buying something this large and expensive online.  What if it doesn't work... and you've already installed it?  Well I ordered this hood in September, arrived in October and we did not finish our remodel on time... so installed it in December.\n\nIt is beautiful, and it works great.  Except the two LED lights would not come on.  So I called Ron Lee at Kobe Range Hoods.  He was extremely friendly... said he'd send two lights out to me.  They were at my door the next morning at 10:00am... FEDEX.  I installed them... he sent detailed easy to follow instructions.  And... the lights still did not work.  I checked the continuity on the switch and it was ok.  Called Ron back.  He said he'd send me a new power supply.  He did and it arrived again the very next day... FEDEX.  I installed that (very easy) the power supply and the lights still did not work.  So I called Ron again... and he said he would find an appliance company in my area to come out and fix it.... whatever it was.\n\nA day later I got an email from him... with contact information for Gormsley Appliance in San Diego... and shortly after that... a call from Gormsley.... and they scheduled a service call.  Two nights before the appointment (last night) I was cooking and turned the hood on.  Lights came on.... I cycled the switch and they turned off... turned back on.... then I turned the hood off... cycled the lights again... everything was working fine.  This morning I tried the lights again.... working fine, so I called Gormsley and Kobe Range Hoods and cancelled the service call.\n\nApparently the gremlins have quit messing with me :-)\n\nKobe Range hoods makes a beautiful appliance... and they really.... really know how to take carer of customer's.  I would highly recommend them to anyone wanting to buy a hood at a excellent price.  This hood was less than half the price of what an equal one would have been at Ferguson's or Pacific Sales.\n\nCompare this hood:&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/KOBE-Range-Hoods-RA2830SQB-1-Under-Cabinet-Hood-3-Speed-680-CFM-with-LED-Lights-30-Inch/dp/B00E5Y5QNI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">KOBE Range Hoods RA2830SQB-1 Under Cabinet Hood 3-Speed, 680 CFM with LED Lights, 30-Inch</a>&nbsp;to anything out there!\n\nYou can order this with confidence that after installed... they will take care of you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4057, "id": 504238, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 463, "len_tokens": 649, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-RUBFO746CTUVB\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/B1Xdyr1JQfS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81oZQFVjz4S.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;I can't believe what a dud this fridge is! We were so excited to get this (and it's no small investment). We wanted a large fridge for our growing family, and had space for a 36\" wide appliance. We didn't want a bottom freezer because all of our friends were unhappy with the freezers on these - total chaos inside with nothing found easily. Also, we have two kids under 5 years old so we wanted something that the kids could reach into and a bottom freezer makes the fridge above a child's height. We looked at side-by-sides, but all the reviews said the sizes were smaller than reported and we wanted to maximize the fridge size. So, even though this was more than we wanted to spend, we took the plunge and were so excited to finally upgrade from our 12 y.old, $400 Kenmore. What a mistake! I had no idea how low GE had come (time to sell that stock!). As soon as we plugged the fridge in we were shocked at the loud electrical sounding noise it made. We could hear it in the next room. In the hallway. At the dining table. It was that weird, high pitched sound that computers sometimes make. Not loud, but high pitched in a dog whistle kind of way. So I called the retailed, who said call GE. I called GE and after various phone calls, that I had to do from work and took approximately 2 hours of my time, I arranged for a repair person to come out. My husband took an entire day off work to wait for the guy and, predictably, he arrived in the last 5 minutes of the alotted time slot. He walked in, listened to the fridge and said, \"yup, that's what a compressor sounds like\". Total BS. I have two friends who bought fridges within a year of us, and theirs are totally silent. I'm startled by the silence when I walk into their apartments. But, then again, they were smart enough to have bought LGs. Anyway, now it's about 6 months from delivery and we're on to the next problem - a *very* loud, motor boat-like noise. No idea where this is coming from, but can't wait for the repair person to tell me this is normal too. Haven't called GE yet, as it will be another few hours on the phone, trying to get the right person. Then a day off work. Then they'll probably just replace some part that will last long enough for the warranty to expire until the next problem. Listen for yourself - should be enough to keep you away from this piece of...", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4058, "id": 505810, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 587, "len_tokens": 697, "text": "Update* May 27, 2016: I have been in customer service for over 15 years running my own business and cannot believe Maytag/Whirlpool is still in business given the horrible customer service and product quality I have experienced with them. Just spoke to a supervisor who was rude and arrogant. The reps I spoke to were more honest and helpful. All in all, a terrible experience with a faulty product, Maytag Bravos XL washing machine (with Commercial Technology). The first rep I spoke with admitted that there have been many problems with this machine. A local technician who initially diagnosed the problem said these machines are a lousy product and the technician sent by Maytag/Whirpool said the Bravos washers have had loads of issues (pun intended). I am happy to share the full extent of my terrible experience with anyone considering a purchase from Maytag/Whirlpool. Over $800 for this machine that is less than 4 years old and total junk.\n\nOriginal Review: I purchased this machine in July of 2012. I do numerous loads of laundry every week, as I run a bed & breakfast. In the past, I have used a basic household washing machine. I had hoped this machine would allow me to wash larger loads, faster, with greater energy efficiency. This machine does handle loads which are about 20% larger than my previous household style washers, but it is not faster.\n\nI have 3 major complaints about this machine.\n\n1) The machine really beats up towels. With previous machines, my towels stayed in very good condition for 4 years. Now, towels are only lasting 2 years before they become frayed and tattered along the edges. They also develop pulls all over them, which did not happen with past machines I have owned. I think these problems might be related to the fact that the machine uses such low water, that the fabrics end up rubbing so hard on each other like sandpaper. Also, the high speed spin might be beating the fabrics up as well. In either case, I am now having to buy towels and sheets twice as often as I previously bought them.\n\n2) The area around the bleach dish is rusting out horribly. I do not know if this is a design flaw or a use of shoddy materials, but it is unacceptable to open the lid of your 2 year old washing machine and see a big area of rust developing. I will include photographic evidence of this.\n\n3) You cannot let items soak in the tub, as it does not fill up with water. With past machines, I could let the tub fill and let dirty delicates soak for a while before letting the cycle resume. This helped loosen the dirt and release smells. Unable to do this, I find that my clothes does not come clean during the short, low water delicate cycle. For the same reason, you cannot use this machine to dye any fabrics.\n\nAnother minor complaint is that as time has gone by, what started as an unbelievably quiet machine has become quite loud. I suppose the near silence was to good to last, but since it was the most redeeming feature of this machine, it is sad to see it go.\n\nAs you can tell, I am not satisfied with this purchase given the cost and the fact that I had hoped it would perform at least as well as previous ordinary washing machines I'd purchased from a used appliance store for $200.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4059, "id": 506218, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 556, "len_tokens": 630, "text": "I purchased the WT1701CW Top Load Washer from an authorized dealer in December 2014, and it was installed Jan 2015 with the completion of my new house. I moved in my new house in March and the washer has begun to have problem every since.\nThe problems are: 1. The rinse in normal cycle is literally 45 seconds long with very little water sprayed on clothes 2. the washer will stop randomly during the cycle for no reason 3. The most critical problem is that the washer leaves detergent marks on all clothes, regardless of what detergent I used, how much detergent I used, or what cycle I chose. Once the detergent marks are left on clothes, they are nearly impossible to remove unless extensively hand washed. The detergent residues left on the clothes have caused allergy to my family member, especially to my pregnant wife. This is a tremendous health hazard, so we have no choice but hand wash our clothes even since.\nGiven these aforementioned problems, I have contacted LG's authorized service multiple times, and they have sent service person 7 times to come in trying to repair this machine. Firstly, they replaced the top control board. Nothing was improved. Then, they came in to replace the bottom control board, however, the service person found out that the part came in was incorrect. Then, he went back and request new part to be shipped. Three weeks later, two new boards came in and they were exactly identical as the incorrect one that was sent three week ago. When the service person opened the circuit board case to take a picture of the original bottom control board, he found out that the board in the machine was incorrect as well! There was a multipin socket that has nothing connect to it. Therefore, it turns out that the machine came out of the factory with an incorrect bottom control board in the first place, and the LG service department has no idea how to repair it (given the fact that they sent three incorrect bottom control board). This makes me believe that the LG WT1701CW model I have has essential design problems that LG is incapable of addressing. Additional complaints about the customer service: the customer service of LG is such a pain that dealing with them is time consuming and inefficient. Every time I called, the customer service representative was trying to educate me how to operate the washer correctly, use the right detergent in right amount, even though I have told him/her multiple times that I have literally tried everything possible. Three months have passed since the first time LG started to repair the washer, and I still don't know when this is going to end. I bought what supposed to be high end washer, but end up having to hand wash all my clothes for months. So far, LG has sent technicians from three different tech service store, and they are trying to send a fourth. The LG tech support consistently evaluate the machine to be functioning as supposed to, while the machine constantly leaves detergent marks on the clothes. The LG executive customer service basically told me that they will continue to send tech service but will not replace the unit unless THEIR tech support determine this machine is not repairable.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4060, "id": 506230, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 558, "len_tokens": 692, "text": "EDIT: We did finally figure out how to turn off the sound on the machine (thanks to an internet search).  I still think there are enough drawbacks that I am not going to change my rating at this juncture.\n\nI bought this from a big box store on a good sale, but now wish I could go back to my old low end top loader (which I thought was terrible at the time, but in comparison, was great).  In 11 months my machine hasn't broken and I haven't had any mechanical problems, so that accounts for a star or two.  My issues are several: 1) It doesn't clean very well, 2) Both old and new clothes have suddenly started getting small holes in them, which makes me hypothesize that the washer is rough on them, 3) There is no way to turn off the sound on the washer (as opposed to the paired dryer, which does have a sound off feature), and 4) It's high(er) maintenace.  Here are more details:\n\n1) Doesn't clean.  This is using my past washing experience as a comparison (I have used a high-end Bosch HE front loader, and several older-style top loaders of varying quality), and specifically compares it to my last washer, which was on the same county water source so I believe this is the most direct comparison.  I use similar washing styles, detergents, boosters/stain removers, and drying methods.  With this washer, dirt and stains that in the past were easily removed, still remain after washing.\n\n2) Holes in clothes.  At first, I thought the holes in our clothes must be from some kind of pest.  While that IS possible, I strongly suspect the washer has something to do with it.  The small holes are primarily in clothes that are worn and washed frequently; clothes that sit in dressers or hang in closets but don't get worn as much are hole-free.  I thought maybe it was due to the age of clothes, but there are holes on some new clothes as well.  So while I cannot prove the washer caused this, I do suspect it to be true.\n\n3) No way to turn off sound.  This is a huge pain if your washer is in a location that needs to be kept quiet.  For instance, our laundry area is right outside our baby's nursery, and that means we can't run the washer at all in the evenings unless someone wants to stay up trying to put the baby back to sleep.  Huge inconvenience.\n\n4) High maintenance.  Again, this is just compared to the 5 or 6 washers I've used in the past.  This one gets detergent, dirt, and film buildup on the door of the washer (and probably elsewhere, but it is quite visible and gross on the glass door).  The manual says it requires (monthly, I think?) cleaning to remove the residues.  My question is, given that I have soft water and there should be very little mineral deposits in the water, why isn't the washer able to clean well enough to wash away residue??  This goes back to point 1 - it just doesn't do a great job cleaning.  Also, it requires you periodically clean out a drain in the front of the washer.\n\nIf I were doing it again, I would buy another top-loader.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4061, "id": 506674, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 465, "len_tokens": 647, "text": "This is a good, solid dryer, but if the coordinating Miele washer is definitely a star, I can't quite say the same about the dryer. It gets the job done, has a decent number of programs, but it just doesn't seem THAT different from other dryers. In all honesty I find it to be a bit overpriced, and if we didn't have to stack our set I might have gone with something less expensive.\n\nPros - a fair amount of control over the settings (even one for clothes that will be rotary ironed); built in moisture sensor, so no guessing of how long a load will take to dry; built in light (so nothing gets left behind); condensation can be drained into a drain pipe, eliminating the need to empty the container; only dryer I would ever trust wool and cashmere too - does a lovely job with them; reverses the tumble (unless Turbo mode is selected), which keeps sheets from cocooning.\n\nCons - not all programs are intuitive (Woolens = good for all delicates, Fluff = cold air tumble, Anti-Crease = periodic tumbling after end of cycle, Smooth and Sturdy I still haven't figured out); manual is a joke - doesn't even have a chart that shows what the equivalent of the standard \"Tumble dry low\" etc. is (I do Wrinkle Free + Gentle, unless it's something very delicate, then I choose Woolens); I had to play around with the settings - the first couple of loads were very wrinkled; pricey; stacking requires a \"stacking kit\" that costs close to two hundred dollars.\n\nAnd one more note - per the instructions you must NOT use dryer sheets, since those can cause damage to the dryer.\n\nETA: I thought I would list a starting point for some standard loads that I dry, in case that helps anyone in the future.\n\nTowels - Normal + Turbo + More Dry\nSheets - Wrinkle Free + Less Dry/Normal\nDress Shirts - Wrinkle Free + Gentle + Rotary Iron (then hang dry and iron)\nRegular clothes (socks, t-shirts, etc.) - Wrinkle Free + Normal\nDown Jackets - 45 minutes + Gentle (the moisture sensor gets tricked by the outer layer being dry, so the Wrinkle Free and Normal cycles end while the down filler is still wet, hence having to choose the timed cycle); add&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Nellie-s-NDB-E-Dryer-Balls-Regular-Fabrics/dp/B0009IB6T2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Nellie's NDB-E Dryer Balls, Regular Fabrics</a>\nCashmere/Wool sweaters - Woolens and then lay flat on towel to finish drying\nDelicate synthetics - Woolens and hang/lay to finish drying\nClothes that will be hung to finish drying - 20 or 45 minutes (add Gentle if applicable) - this is what I do with most of our t-shirts and tops, since it's the best way to avoid wrinkles", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4062, "id": 508039, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 533, "len_tokens": 628, "text": "This dishwasher looks nice, is extremely quiet, it has large capacity.\nI would give it 5 stars if it was not for a big problem. It leaks through the door. Yes, the door.\nWhen you are putting the dishes inside it is normal to spill some water over the interior of the door while totally open. Well, when you close the door, all that water will go to the floor of my kitchen! The water somehow goes inside the door itself!?!?\nGE has been contacted and they are trying to run from their responsibility saying that the warranty only covers \"repairs\". As this is a bad design it's out!!!!!\nWhen I have some time I will upload some videos here for you to see what you can get with this model.\nI discovered that you you close the door very, very, very slowly the water will not leak. But you close the door normally, it will all come out! It's hard to believe, but I will show you.\n\nNot recommended.\n\nUPDATE: A third technician coming over finally realize that a rubber sealing the bottom part of the door was placed 180 degrees wrong! That was the reason for the water to come out.\nNow works fine and I'm not able to do that video anymore. Sorry.\n\nI like to dry the dishes with the door slightly open. This way you dry the dishes for free putting some additional moister to the already very dry house. But this machine does not keep the door open. The system is made to close the door and use the Heated dry (using energy). What a waste of energy, for something that can be done for free. So I use a bottle of water to force the door to be open :(\n\nUPDATE2: the detergent dispenser is REALLY bad designed: it happens a lot that the detergent tabs don't fall out of the detergent dispenser during the wash cycle. This is due to the fact that the detergent dispenser box is not proper sealed and if you put the detergent tab while the box has some water the tab will dissolve before the cycle and will not come out.\nWhen the cycle finishes you can see all the detergent in the door, and some residues of it inside the machine, and the dishes all dirty with detergent.\nSo now I need to dry the detergent dispenser before putting there toe detergent tab and run a second cycle again!\n\nUPDATE 3: A forth technician came over and reset the software. FINALLY I found the problem - bad design: the detergent box/door is located right over the forks basket. The forks block the door of the detergent to open!!!!! Now I need to keep that basket empty, if I want the detergent to fall and the machine wash properly :(\n\nPROS:\n-large capacity;\n-internal organization;\n-Silent;\n-allegedly efficient;\n\nCONS:\n-detergent dispenser bad design - kitchenware on the basket block door to open!\n-Quality control (above issue);\n-Door does not stay open, if you want to have it slightly open to dry dishes on air (it's free to dry dish with the air!).\n\nCONCLUSION: DON't RECOMMEND THIS MODEL!!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4063, "id": 508051, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 491, "len_tokens": 609, "text": "I recently bought this oven to replace a professional Jenn-Air dual fuel convection oven. What a fantastic purchase! I did a lot of research in stores and through Consumer Reports to find a quality, well-made oven. Although this model is not marketed as \"professional\" or \"commercial\", the quality is every bit as good as ones sold for over $2000; it's even way better made than the professional unit I was replacing. Everything about it seems sturdy & well-made; knobs, oven racks, opening/closing the oven doors, cast iron grates, display panel, inside oven finish - nothing seems cheap. The gas top is very temperature specific - I can tweak it to perfectly suit whatever I am cooking. The power burner boils very large stockpots of water within minutes; my old stove took 20 minutes to boil what this stove can do in 10 minutes. Having two ovens is a convenience that I never thought I 'd care about, but I really like it. I use the top oven for most things; I use the bottom convection oven for baked goods - cakes/muffins - and roasters. I keep an oven thermometer inside to gauge if the baking temperature is accurate. It's generally always accurate for the bottom oven. It often fluctuates within 25 degrees, plus or minus, in the top oven. The stovetop burners light quickly without a lot of residual gas escape; the stovetop & oven are very easy to keep clean.\n\nIf I manufactured this oven, there are two things I might reconsider, although neither one is a deal-breaker. The preheat beeper tells you that the oven has reached its preheated temperature way before it actually does. The instruction manual tells you that it takes 20 minutes to be fully preheated to set temperature; however the beeper goes off in 7-10 minutes. When the beeper goes off, I check my oven thermometer and it's usually 100 - 150 degrees lower than it should be. But it does reach the set temperature in 20 minutes, so I know to just wait a little bit before putting my food in.\n\nAnother design drawback is that the cast iron grates on the stove top do not have rubber pads on the bottom to keep from scratching or chipping the finish. There are 3 grates and they interlock, which means you always have to take the middle one off first to take the other two off. They are heavy & awkwardly-weighted, so its easy to bang them around a little if you're not very careful. I've been lucky so far, but I'm just waiting for a chip or scratch one of these days.\n\nIf you are installing this oven yourself, get some help. My husband is young and strong, but this oven was over 300 pounds - it took a lot of ingenuity & people to get it in the kitchen from the garage. All in all, I couldn't be happier with this purchase. :)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4064, "id": 508063, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 529, "len_tokens": 629, "text": "I am a retired baker who worked at a high level restaurant where quality was the highest concern. I probably should have known that because this is a gas convection oven, it is much less effective than an electric convection model. (Emphasis on the phrase much less)\n\nThe reason is that the convection fan doesn't run when the gas is on. It only runs when the gas is off and the temperature is up to the set level. In an electric convection oven the convection fan runs all the time the oven is turned on, even when the element is on. This makes a HUGE difference in the browning and crisping of foods and pastries.\n\nAs an example, in the GE electric oven this gas model replaced I used to convection broil chicken. I'd have the chicken out of the frig to bring the temp up a little before cooking. Then I'd coat it with olive oil all over and pop it into the preheated 425F convection broiler. In less than 30 min. it would be very well browned and quite crisp.\n\nDoing the same thing in this gas convection oven results in undercooked, hardly browned, and not crispy chicken. Very disappointing indeed. The upper element in this oven hardly runs, while the upper element in the electric convection broiler is ablaze and doing its job quite well.\n\nI am extremely disappointed in this oven because it should not even have the convection function. By its very nature of not allowing the convection fan to run while the gas is running, it is a failure.\n\nIf you don't have enough electric power and must run gas, either propane or natural gas, don't spend the money on this stove. You will be much better of resigning to the fact that you won't get the kind of cooking out of it that you should expect.\n\nSecondarily, I believe that GE obfuscated the reality of what I describe above when I called to ask on more than one occasion before I made the purchase. Try asking them yourself about the functioning of the fan and gas. Ask them exactly what happens during operation of the bake and broil convection modes.\n\nThis range comes with an instructional DVD that is crude and very low resolution. It is a childish attempt at instruction. I was very surprised at the low quality that GE produced.\n\nIn converting the stove from Natural Gas to Propane, it is required to remove the inside bottom of the stove in order to access the orifice. There is a kit that comes with the range. Mine lacked the one of the orifices. I needed to wait a week for the replacement.\n\nThe range itself was delayed a few weeks beyond the upper limit of the quoted delivery time. As an example, right now the expected delivery = \"Estimated Delivery Date: July 9 - 14 when you choose Expedited at checkout.\"  It took them many weeks beyond that time limit to get it to me.\n\nLastly, I do like the the way it looks and feels. But as to its functioning, the way it bakes, I think it is a failure.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4065, "id": 508072, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 419, "len_tokens": 687, "text": "This is a great range, however the app that allows you to preheat the oven is frustrating to say the least.  You have to remember to press the \"Remote Enable\" button after every use or else you will not be able to connect via the app.\nSee the terrible app reviews at:\nhttps://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ge-brillion/id668134574?mt=8\nhttps://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ge-kitchen/id992883749?mt=8\n\nAlso if you are excited to use ChefConnect where the stove can automatically turn on the microwaves hood light or fan after turning on a burner then realize that this does not currently work with any of there top of the line Advantium microwaves it only works with the PVM9005 series.\n\nAs for the range itself I have few complaints.  Induction is cool technology that really does boil water faster and provides the instant heat adjustment like gas.  Obviously spill over from a pot is way easier to clean than a gas stove and since the cooktop doesn't get hot it doesn't bake food onto the surface.  I was rather against a stove without knobs as I felt the speed of turning it on would be annoying, but it isn't annoying at all and my wife loves the easy cleaning since knobs are generally a pain.  My main complaint with induction is that I'm afraid to scratch the pretty surface.  With a coil top electric or a gas stove I feel comfortable shaking a pan back and forth to move food around, now I'm scared my wife will kill me if I get a scratch on there.  Perhaps it's more durable than I think I just haven't yet had the courage to test my limits.  Likewise cast iron skillets scare me on the top for scratches, some people recommend putting a paper towel, newspaper, or  silpat between which maybe I'll try but GE says not to put anything between.\n\nFinally just a note that griddles which are induction friendly are incredibly difficult to find.  Almost all griddles are aluminum which is not induction friendly.  Adding even more difficulty is trying to find a double burner griddle which is induction friendly.  Just to help you out if you're looking for griddles try these links:\nTri-Ply Griddle (Vollrath 77530): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J59FGUQ?colid=39P11Y9E63DPF&coliid=I3HLU1B0772CQ9&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl\nCast Iron Griddle (Lodge Pro-Logic P12SG3): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008G2W2U?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage\nhttp://www.dvorsons.com/ChefKing/Griddles.htm\nDoulbe Burner Griddle (Chef King RM1220): http://www.dvorsons.com/ChefKing/Griddles.htm\n\nMost people online just recommend buying an electric griddle like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066XROO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1\n\nI do wish the oven had the rack that slides out on rollers instead of just the old fashioned adjustable shelves.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4066, "id": 508173, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 556, "len_tokens": 685, "text": "This is the review I did at Best Buy, which was rejected. Oh well, I don't pull punches! When I tried to register the product at the samsung site, it kept kicking me out to correct non-existent errors, giving me the suspicion they didn't want to accept my information or to honor the warranty. I got them on the phone and they cheerfully set-up an appt. with the only Samsung service available in a 75 mile radius and I live just outside Chicago! Not sure what had happened to my brand new dishwasher, I decided to call the service outlet 12 miles from my home to inquire about the possibility of it being due to bad electric service. They informed me that the visit alone, would be $138! I since realized it was Samsung's fault because I have 4 other electronic appliances that have been around for 5 years, trouble-free.\n\nBut I also decided to Google trouble with this dishwasher and immediately found a website called: Consumer Complaints & Reviews. Apparently, I wasn't the only one who discovered too late, that the most important part of selling me a samsung dishwasher is getting me to purchase it.... Of the top 125 complaints, there are about 20 -30 best buy customers. The typical breakdown concerns the chinese electronic control panel which is what my problem is, according to the trouble code. The dishwasher will recover after about 4 -8 hours, begins a new wash cycle and then a few minutes later, stops and blinks the l.e.d.s.\n\nI've had it for 6 months and used it 10 times. I have the original box of powerball tablets recommended by samsung. I live alone and usually wash a lot by hand instead of wasting energy, soap, etc. I'm presently at home with a back injury and no dishwasher! I can only stand for about 2 to 4 minutes and I'm \"still\" paying for the broken samsung. So far, the cost is $50.00 per washload!\n\nI called best buy for help. I wanted to trade this for a new dishwasher of a different brand. and they offered to take the unit away for me, while there, delivering my new purchase! I got angry and said, I couldn't find out it was defective before your time limit, I don't have that many dishes. They asked me if I'd bought the extended service plan and I got more angry. I said: Once you get it out the door, it's next customer? What happened to standing by your product? You're in this business, obviously, you know this is junk, \"why\" is it on your floor to sell to me?\n\nAccording to these bad reviews at: Consumer Complaints & Reviews, Samsung had denied, blamed and drug their feet at the customer's expense for months at a time in many cases. So my worst fears about trying to clean my dishes with my injury are coming true!\n\n\"WHY\" samsung?\n\n\"WHY\" best buy?\n\nI hope you have the \"decency\" to allow this review to be posted here, for the sake of your remaining customers, because I've taken myself off your mailing list and cutting up your so-called: \"Elite\" membership! Just in case you censor this review, I'll be posting it all over the internet, everywhere I can, until my undeserved punishment is repealed by you or samsung", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4067, "id": 508359, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 566, "len_tokens": 685, "text": "My only problem with reviews is most folks only take the time to write bad ones to vent.  I bought this unit about 1.5 years ago.  Overall when people buy, Viking, Wolf or a BMW, MB... they are forgetting that these are premium products pushing the envelope in terms of performance and features.  These trend setters often test out what works years ahead of `mass market'.  For perfect reliability and average form buy the middle never the top.  Just don't forget 5K is still upper middle.  Built ins run 12k and up in some cases.\n\nAstatically\nI love how this unit goes from the floor to ceiling giving the built in look.  Its hard to find a flush counter depth which fits like a glove.  This looks like a 10k unit at half the price.  Any stainless appliance is hard to keep clean.  Working in a kitchen for 8 years we wiped down appliances throughout the night and every night we polish all the equipment.  I never understood why the consumer market wanted the commercial look.\nWhen entertaining I am constantly complimented by the appearance.  Few counter depths have this much storage or can fit a pizza easily on the shelves. The interior lighting is one of the best but that is just an opinion.  My only ding is the freezer light is on the fridge door.  Occasionally I leave both open while unloading supplies.  As such, the fridge is internally lit the freezer is lit from the underside of the door thus underwhelming.\nFunctionally\nThe freezer drawers work well rather than digging to the back to find green beans which have been frozen for 5 years with my older units. The machine is silent.  I have a dedicated gourmet kitchen with eating area.  I wanted silence when running the dishwasher and when the fridge kicks on.  This was  HUGE draw for me with this unit.  While the dual compressors keep the food at a constant temp I hardly know when it kicks on.  The additional fan mode keeps air moving to reduce moister as is a problem with many of the new fridges.\nI opted for the internal icemaker.  While I sacrifice some storage cubes use filtered water (pretty much standard now) and are good size.  I have yet to run out or have any issues with the icemaker.\n\nMechanically\nI am very pleased.  The Bosch, and Miele were the two alternatives I had looked at.  If you look at the design of the dual compressors the lack of variation keeps food fresher longer.  I learned while doing my research that cheaper units tend to vary more in temperature.  Some friends have knocked this as a faux performance issue but at 33 you have water at 32 ice.  A slight degree variation makes a large difference with respect to bacteria, and the cells in meats and veggies.  I have noticed better food storage when compared to my $1700 fridge which is now in the basement kitchenette.\nI have not yet had a problem with the alarm yet but I have left the door open and been woken up at night by the beeping.  Simply pressing the silence button and closing the door has saved me more than a few loads of groceries.  I bought from a reputable local buyer who handles complaints so I have no fears when/if something should go wrong with the unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4068, "id": 508731, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 510, "len_tokens": 626, "text": "First of all, you will need to buy CERTIFIED APPLIANCE STMKIT2 Braided Steam Dryer Installation Kit, Stainless Steel and 2 Certified Appliance WM48SS Braided Washing Machine Connector, Stainless for hot and cold water to the washer and hot to the dryer!  I actually bought 2 6' hoses for more room.\n\nWill have to re-post after we get a chance to use it.  Dryer came DOA.  Called Maytag for service and first person I spoke with was rude and told me I would not get a full year warranty because she had my purchase date as 10/22/2017 instead of 2/14/2018 when I purchased from Amazon because I should have bought it locally and not from Amazon.  I asked for a supervisor and she gave me an email address to send a copy of my invoice to so I could get the purchase date corrected.  The supervisor was very helpful and got a repairman out to service my dryer the same day!  I am waiting on a part to come in next Tuesday to fix the dryer.  They said a sensor was bad on the heating element that prevents it from getting electricity.  I bought extended warranties from Maytag on both while on the phone given that it came DOA.\n\nUPDATE:  Part came in as promised on following Tuesday, was installed and worked!  Finally got to do some laundry.  Firstly, I am amazed at how quiet both the washer and dryer are.  Secondly, these handle large loads well.  We washed large fluffy quilts and comforters easily as well as bed and throw pillows.  The results are excellent in terms of cleanliness and softness of fabrics.  Curtains came out clean, soft and wrinkle free on normal wash.  Finally, my acid test.  We have a set of lime green beach, bath and face towels with matching wash cloths that had turned slightly brown over the years from dirt that just would not come out.  I washed these on the Power wash setting with heavy soil and steam for stains turned on.  Either they would come out clean or I would throw away the whole set.  The wash cycle took 2 hours and 15 minutes, but the results were amazing!  All are lime green again without any hint of brown and feel very soft.  My wife loves the pedestals as this is much less bending and stooping as well as being able to store all laundry stuff away making the wash are look very clean and organized.  She also says lint practically falls off the dryer lint trap very easily.  The washer door stays just ajar enough to allow ventilation without being in the way all the way open.  The controls are a little complex to get used to so I printed out the three pages of the cycle settings and set on top of the washer as a handy reference until we get used to them.\n\nFor all of this, I am raising my review to five stars in spite of the dryer arriving DOA.  Again Maytag fixed it quickly and at no cost.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4069, "id": 508810, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 532, "len_tokens": 643, "text": "My refrigerator came with the main cabinet portion with a slight twist that makes the doors twist to conform.  From the side the one door sticks out at the top 1/4 to 5/16 inch and the opposite on the bottom.  I contacted GE.  The first tech was super rude and tried to steam the gasket around the door to somehow straighten the whole refrigerator out.  The tech said it was in tolerance because it was less than 3/16\" off.  I said how would you know as you never measured it.  He said he can tell.  I told him I measured it and it is off between 1/4\" and 5/16\".  He said said it looks like less that 3/16\" now (after steaming) so it is in tolerance so there is nothing they can do about it.  The next guy came and replaced the door but not the gasket and there was no improvement (still off 1/4\" to 5/16\").  I had them come out again but they never called so the appointment never happened.  I contacted Customer Relations instead of Repair and they said I needed to have a tech come out to verify the doors not fitting right, they cannot be repaired, and to give the case number and phone number to the tech so they could call and initiate a return.  The first (rude) tech came out and after I told him he had been out three weeks earlier, he corrected me and said he was never at my home (obvious lie).  Then, even though he said he was never at my home and had yet to see the refrigerator, he said he already called tech support and they said they are not going to do anything about it.  I said informed him of the call with Customer Relations that he needed to verify the difference in the doors, see if it can be fixed, and call the number and let them know what you found.  He let me know that he is not going to do any of that because they already determined that GE is not going to do anything.  I let the Customer Relations person know and they sounded like they were surprised/disappointed it went that way.  Next appointment, the tech acknowledged the doors are off, they cannot be repaired and he was going to call the number as provided.  He explained that they changed the manufacturing process and the refrigerators have no frame...they are just injected with foam and how every they line up is what they are.  He said it used to be they could repair these but now they cannot be fixed, whereas they could be previously.  Next up, an email from GE Customer Relations stating that TAG (whatever that is) said, the twisted refrigerator and the doors that don't align (my words) are cosmetic issues and are not covered by warranty.  I would not expect it to be a warranty issue as it was shipped as a manufacturer' defect.  By the way, the ice maker drops ice in the freezer compartment continuously.  I see GE has no interest in quality or employing anyone from the United States.  They just sell their garbage here.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4070, "id": 509075, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 587, "len_tokens": 685, "text": "I was so excited to receive this product.  I had been dreaming of an induction range for years and when we updated our kitchen I thought the time was right.  It was a little slow in arriving, but that was just a lesson in patience for me.  Two days after it arrived we had modified the cabinet space for it so it would fit and I started cooking on it.  I was blown away.  So fast.  Water started to boil in a fairly large pot in less than a minute and was at full boil in three minutes.  I love how easy the cooktop is to clean.  Matching the pans to the correct diameter cooking area is easy because you have four different sizes to choose from.\n\nThe convection oven takes a little getting used to.  The waves of heat coming out of the door when I opened it were surprising.  And it took forever for it to cool down.  I checked and rechecked the controls because it felt like the oven was still on.  When I used the oven as a conventional oven I didn't have that problem.  Also, a cookie sheet actually blew over the edge of the oven rack when I opened the door using convection.  I will probably use the oven in the conventional mode more.  It heats up much more quickly than the convection mode too.\n\nI say I will probably use that feature because I don't know what will happen after the service technician gets here next week.  I read so many reviews on this range and most were good.  There will always be some bad reviews, but I wish I had paid more attention and definitely wish I had purchased it locally so I could return it.  Just eight days after it arrived the cooktop failed, in the middle of cooking breakfast.  The lights came on and blinked and then shut off.  Later the same day it was working fine.  Still later the problem had returned.  Eight days!  And during that time we were out of town for three days so it didn't get used at all while we traveled.  So really this very expensive induction range lasted all of 5 days and very few meals.  I could not be more disappointed.  GE will be sending a service technician out next week, but in the meantime, we have no way to cook.  Thank heaven that we have a microwave and a toaster oven that can handle most jobs.  I would not recommend this range to anyone.  Take the bad reviews to heart and stay away!\n\nUPDATE:  While the GE service man was here we discovered that the problem wasn't in the range, but in the plan placement. By moving a pan less than a quarter of an inch it caused the burner to \"catch\" or \"lose\" the pan. You need to be VERY aware of pan size and placement on the top of the range. This can result in not being able to use all the burners if you don't have exactly the right size pan to fit. Yesterday I had to use a much bigger pan than I needed because the smallest burner was already taken and the next size burner would not recognize a small pan. This is explained in the owner's manual, but I didn't realize how precise the size of each pan on each burner has to be. I will probably need to buy a few more pots and pans to accommodate the various size burners.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4071, "id": 509917, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 553, "len_tokens": 632, "text": "We got off to a bad start with this washer when it wouldn't even complete one load after it was installed. Then my husband read the manual and discovered that the delivery guys had installed the drain hose incorrectly and it was siphoning. We called them back to re-install and it has worked fine ever since. They said that this brand has a quirk to installing that part, so I would advise anyone buying this machine to pay close attention to that part of the installation to ensure proper functioning.\n\nI've had the machine now for about 10 days and I've done about a dozen loads of various sizes, types, and soil levels. I've been using Nellie's detergent, which I love. That combined with this machine means my items have been really clean and I'm thrilled with it so far. Haven't had to run even one item through on a second pass yet. It's efficient, cleans the clothes beautifully, has lots of features, and looks sleek.\n\nI got rid of our previous pair not because they were broken, but because the washer was really loud-- you could hear it in every corner of our 4,000 ft2 house when it was spinning. We have a baby on the way, so I realized nobody was ever going to sleep if we didn't get a new one. I have been absolutely thrilled with this F&P machine's low noise level. If I close the door to the laundry room, you can't hear a thing anywhere else in the house. A couple times I forgot that it was running, and was startled by the noise when I went into the laundry room for something during the cycle. Just what I was looking for!\n\nA couple of things I don't love about the machine, but are not enough to keep me from recommending it are these. It has gotten off balance twice since I've had it-- once during a load of sheets and once during a load with the cushions from the dog beds-- bulky items. The machine stops (does not try to correct itself as some machines do) and sounds an alarm to get your attention to remedy the situation. I was upset about it at first, but then I read the manual and see that I could have loaded the items differently and selected a different cycle and maybe it wouldn't have happened, so I'm going to wait to try those items again to make my final judgment.\n\nI also don't like the locking lid. I realize it's intended to keep children safe and I should appreciate that. But I frequently realize there is one more item I want to add and prefer to just be able to toss it in quickly. There is a pause button on this machine that will unlock the lid, but because of the dual tub design, you lose a little water every time you open it and it increases the cycle time also. I guess I'm going to have to learn to round up every wash item and get them all in there at the beginning.\n\nSo far so good with this machine. I have to wait to see what the long-term durability is like and if more problems arise with time, but I'm hoping I just love it more!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4072, "id": 510457, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 461, "len_tokens": 629, "text": "For those of you that are experiencing the \"thump-thump... thump-thump... thump-thump...\" problem that the Samsung DV350AEW/XAA dryer is plagued with, it's a cracked seam, either on the front or back of the drum. I thought it was bad bearings on the rollers, so I replaced those, only to discover a cracked drum was the issue. ...for a 1000+ owners of this dryer. Overall the dryer is okay, it's SAMSUNG that is the POS in the equation. DON'T BUY SAMSUNG products!\nOkay, on to how to replace the drum without paying half the original cost of the dryer, or in my case 90% of cost. Got it 50% off on BF...\nThe DC97-14849C is an exact replacement, for $139, incl s&h, and you can find it at Sears Parts Direct. In case Amazon blocks out the previously mentioned retailer, which they shouldn't since Amazon doesn't offer it, you will need to use your favorite search engine to find it. Hint: They sell Craftsman, and Roebuck used to be part of their title. Caveat, I had to wait 6 weeks for it to arrive.\nThere's a YT video on how to install the drum, which regardless your mechanical skill level, you should be able to DIY in an hour, or less. Pay attention to the sound deadening strips on the drum when you remove it, they have 2 different color outlines. The reddish was towards the back on mine. Yours may differ. Probably the best way to orientate the drum is to measure from the front of the drum to the belt track on the old drum, then compare that to the replacement drum (which I did not do). I just compared them side-by-side...\nThe sound deadening strips on the DC97-14849C are shorter, which if I had to guess, implies that the drum thickness is greater than the OEM stainless \"Cracks-a-lot\" drum, thus the need for less sound deadening. Could be SAMSUNG cheaped out, again. FYI, nothing comes in contact with these strips.\nThe DC97-14849C is ceramic coated WHITE steel, NOT stainless. And in case you'e wondering, the \"fins\" do come attached with the new DC97-14849C. Although, if they didn't, it would tack on an additional 10 minutes of install time if you had to swap them out to the new one.\nToday is the first day using the DC97-14849C drum, and so far so good. Hopefully it buys me 10+ years of continued service, like the old school dryers did back in the day. Hopefully the matching SAMSUNG washer holds out as well. Doubtful, as front loader washers have their issues. Too much upkeep to prevent molding and smell. They do look pretty... but that stank, if you don't leave the door open for at least 2 days. Am I right?", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4073, "id": 510967, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 521, "len_tokens": 622, "text": "We have a mid-century styled kitchen, quality built with Steel St. Charles cabinetry.  It has 2 ovens in a raised island.  We had held off on updating the ovens for 5 years and when one of our existing 40 year old oven failed, we knew we had to take action.\n\nWe wanted to stay away from common American brands due to less than savory experiences with them.  From a style perspective, the Smeg seemed the best choice by far.  Face it, the thing looks cool!  Vanity over function is typically out of character for us, but in this case, the oven has all of the features one really needs in an oven and it leaves out all of the fluff that is really not necessary.\n\nThen it came to the price.  WOW!  I am not a cheapskate, but i was having a hard time choking down the 4k plus price tag to get 2 ovens.  End story is that we found several reputable online retailers that had the oven for sale and then found one used one on Amazon from a private party.  Through various emails and even a couple of phone calls, we learned that the used one was essentially new so we purchased it.  This would save us a thousand dollars on this project.  Well, it turns out that the used one was listed incorrectly.  The seller had listed it as Smeg FU655.  When we received the oven it was discovered that it was an F655.  This is the European model.  The wiring is different and although the seller claims that it was installed in their US home, we decided that we should send it back to her rather than risk it.\n\nSo... I ended up purchasing 2 new Smeg FU655 ovens.\n\nTo the review:  The things are like works of art in the kitchen, simply stunning to look at.  We have a pretty active kitchen and we use both ovens nearly daily.  We continue to tweak our processes and take notes along the way on which settings work best for different applications.  Hopefully they will last for a long time and we will not have to repeat the process again while we are living in this house.\n\nIf there were anything I wish I would have known about the oven prior to purchasing, it would have been the noise level.  There is a fan that runs whenever the oven is on.  This fan cools the door cavity and there is a bit of air discharge out of the top and bottom of the door.  Another fan inside the oven runs when one of the convection modes is selected, but the inside fan is virtually silent compared to the main fan.  The door fan continues to operate after the oven is turned off.  I guess I don't know if this would have kept us from purchasing the Smeg, but had somebody mentioned the noise factor, I would probably have been more inclined to seek out this oven and other comparable ovens that were hooked up and operating in a showroom or home to witness the noise level 1st hand.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4074, "id": 511478, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 500, "len_tokens": 621, "text": "This fridge is visually pleasing and the lights/shelf layouts are fine.  It does fit into the exact space our old Sub Zero 632 took up and is very quiet.  That's where the good stuff ends.  Unfortunately, the support is absolutely terrible (especially if you buy from Amazon:  Samsung would not even deal with me on my icemaker that is taking a week to fill up because \"in the first 30 days you can only deal with the seller\").  We bought this through \"Home Care Company\" and dealing with them has been a nightmare.  Despite promising inside delivery, they did not provide it and took weeks to respond.  The unit was over a week late from the \"worst case scenario\".  The dispenser light is set to \"auto\" but seems to have no rhyme or reason to when or why it turns off.  Sometimes it'll stay on, and sometimes it goes off after a second or two even if we're still actively drawing ice or water.  The speaker for playing Pandora doesn't deliver very good sound quality - it sounds like music playing from a tin cup.  Why they even bothered putting sound in this thing is beyond me.  Further the \"epicurious\" app which I thought would be a great addition simply doesn't work.  I learned from searching this issue that something changed in November and has not been updated even as of August 2016 (I doubt they're going to fix this) - so you've got a display showing the icon and the app that errors out every time you try to use it.\n\nThe items that you put in the back row near the cold air vents will freeze.  We've got ours set at 42 degrees, and everything in the back row has ice crystals, so that third of the fridge is unusable unless you're okay with having iced milk.  Beyond that, if you set the freezer below -10, your icemaker just won't make ice.  It has to be set at the very coldest setting to be able to keep up with even limited family demand.\n\nFast forward to this freezer's 2nd year in service, and it's making my 3 year old very happy since Frozen's Elsa is living inside and turning the whole freezer into the frozen north Mountain.  From googling this problem, it looks like it's either due to a frozen drain line, or cracked water valve.  Seriously?  Second year in service, and already it's flooding the freezer and everything in it and creating a winter wonderland that block of ice that has all of our frozen food stuck to the shelves and to itself.  What a friggin mess.  Spent 2 hours last night with a hairdryer just trying to melt enough ice to get things out of that freezer into a different freezer, and haven't had time to actually address the problem.\n\nTerrible quality, Samsung!  How does something this expensive get built so cheaply?!  No wonder people are willing to pay 10-20 grand for a sub zero.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4075, "id": 512798, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 510, "len_tokens": 630, "text": "Excellent quality bearings.  After my front load Frigidaire started to make more noise when spinning, I knew what the problem was because I had the same problem about 10 years ago and had a local appliance service department put in a new rear shell piece that included the bearings.  They told me it was a one piece unit and bearings were not available separately.  I was on the phone with Frigidaire for over an hour and ended up getting the parts for free, but paid the repairman $175.00 to install the part.\n\nYou basically need to more or less take the entire washer apart to remove the tub casing, remove all the bolts holding the two parts together, split the shell, remove the stainless steel interior tub, and then remove the old bearings and install the new ones.\n\nAll went quite well actually, except for one thing that I wish to give everyone who reads this a hint on.  I had the most trouble getting the stainless steel tub spindle post out of the old bearings.  I lubricated the tub post where it meets the bearing with penetrating oil and pounded and pounded with a piece of wood between the spindle and my 3, and at one point my 4 pound hammer.  Wouldn't move a bit.  I'll bet I gave it 200 whacks over a few hours....so much so my arm was sore...lol.  Didn't move a bit.  I went online and googled this problem a simple solution was suggested by one service person that I tried and it worked very easily.\n\nSimply lift up the rear shell of the tub, with the stainless steel tub post pointing toward the floor (install the bolt back into the post to protect the end so you can get the pulley back on later in reassembly) and drop it straight down from about 3\" (that's 3 inches or a couple inches more, NOT 3 feet) above a cement floor (basement/garage floor).  I did this 5 times and the 5th time it popped lose easily.  After all that pounding I couldn't believe that I had it lose in less than 60 seconds with five 3\" drops.  It was amazing.\n\nAfter that, I knocked out the old seal and bearings, drove (don't ever pound directly on the bearings, use a piece of wood between your hammer and the bearing, and only on the edge of the new bearing) the new bearings and seal in, and reassembled the tub in the washer and it now spins with little or no added noise....like it did when new.\n\nTook me a total of about 5 hours to do the entire job, from tearing the machine down, to putting a load of clothes in to try it out.  Considering I would have ended up scrapping the machine and buying a new one if I hadn't embarked on this project, I figure I spent $75.00 rather than $1000, so I worked for 5 hours and essentially earned approximately $185.00 per hour for my efforts.  Not bad for a Saturday, right ?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4076, "id": 513462, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 430, "len_tokens": 618, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R3EVJSJA9FQE6U\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/B1UCS0hLzNS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1trmQlmAxS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;&nbsp;UPDATE:\n\nI have upped my review to 4 stars due to the service received.  See my previous review below for the back story.  I contacted the seller regarding the demons.  They responded within 24 hours and worked with me on the solution since I had already installed and altered it.  They offered a refund or repair parts.  I opted for the parts since I am pretty handy and they said it was a relatively easy swap.  They sent me a new circuit board and control panel to install which arrived in a few days.  I just installed them today and it now works.  Hopefully that will last, but at this price and this service I am very pleased.  By the way, it was the control panel, not the circuit board that was FUBAR.  If it keeps working I will upgrade to 5 stars.\n\nPrevious Review:\n I didn't expect much for the price and was not disappointed.  It is OK, but has flaws not the least of which is possession by demons.  First, it arrived damaged.  A slight bending of the housing which resulted in some rivets being popped out.  So A) damaged and 2) weak rivets.  But, I wasn't worried as I was doing an outdoor application and would need to mod it a bit anyway.  Second, very weak frame work.  It sags when hung on the wall by the two mounting holes.  This is because the lower section is too heavy for the internal support.  Now that may have been exacerbated by the damage in shipping, but again I am doing an alternative install so I was able to add some long supports for the front.  Finally, the Possession (tm).  It likes to turn it's lights on an off randomly.  Appliances get lonely and sometimes they just need a little attention but it does get old.  I have attached a video of the demons at work.  It could be a defective remote just firing all the time, but doesn't seem likely.  More tests will ensue and I will see if I hear from the manufacturer.  But it is installed and I really don't want to go through the hassle of a return.\n\nFor my application it was worth the $200 even if I have to gut the electronics and install toggle switches, but if you are looking for something more reliable and won't suddenly spew green slime and attempt to eat your children you probably want to spend some more $$ on a brand name.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4077, "id": 517273, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 547, "len_tokens": 608, "text": "We purchased the RFA 365 - 36\" oven and have had two control boards go out in less than a month. The most recent \"outage\" was at last nights homemade pizza party with 6 hungry kids sharing the first and only pizza that was in the hot oven when the board failed!\n\nWhen we purchased the oven from a local distributor the oven went straight into our garage for nine months while we completed our kitchen remodel. Once ready to install our electrician had to wire the outlet for the unit since it is wired for European electric, once done the unit was turned on. The stove top worked but oven clock failed to light up and if this doesn't work the oven will not fire up. We imeadiatley called the service line and with the direction of the Fagor rep our electrician verified power was correctly wired and metered correctly. All was good electrically and done right. The rep quickly determined the control board was bad and needed to be replaced with another, of course he told us it was on back order and would be awhile before it arrived.\n\nTwo months later the new board arrived and one week later a service tech arrived and replaced the board. The unit finally worked. The stove top has always worked and seems to do a really nice job of even cooking which is nice if you are into cooking as we are. Once the oven was back working we were happy with the overall performance although it ran about 50 degrees hotter than its setting so we placed a thermometer inside the oven to know the heat. The rotisserie was used once and it did a nice job although I would not have anything heavier than 3-4 pound chicken on the spit since the metal is rather light weight. The handled on the door is loose on one side and is a concern because access to the screw holding the handle in place is behind glass adhered to the metal door frame, I suppose the tech replacing our next board will be able to do something to tighten it although he may not.\n\nAs the first and only pizza was in the oven I turned away for a few minutes and came back and noticed the blue lights for the clock were out on the face of the oven...I rolled my eyes and knew what to expect, the oven was officially out again! I called and left a voice message with Fagor because of course it was 7 PM on a Friday night so no help was coming anytime soon. I told myself at the time we ordered the first board to have a second one sent because if something is on back order there is reason. I did not do this and sure enough the board is in need of replacement.\n\nSomething is wrong with the Fagor board so I would be wary of buying anything Fagor again. I imagine to keep costs down they source cheaper electronics for use in their products and as a result the boards fry and then nothing works. Overall performance was good but if the thing doesn't turn on then it can't be used so it gets a zero rating.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4078, "id": 517625, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 500, "len_tokens": 664, "text": "Don't...\nbuy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use.  This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models.  I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops.\n\nHere are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's \"Use and Care\" manual:\n\n500-series:\n[...]\n(page 14)\n\n800-series:\n[...]\n(page 16)\n\nFlexinduction:\n[...]\n(page 15)\n\nI called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call.  I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off.  I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to \"just turn off\" on its own.  On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and \"get back to me with an answer\".\n\nWell, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer.  The support people don't know, and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer).  How strange is that?  But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to \"an unknown at Bosch\".  The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals:\n\"Automatic time limitation:\nIf the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. \"F8\" and the residual heat indicator \"H/h\" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours).\"\n\nThe email also briefly revealed that \"a customer\" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations.  Whatsoever!  I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for \"safety reasons\" but no other details were offered.  Safety reasons?  Really?  Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state?  Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off  \"for safety reasons\"  Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others.\n\nI hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off?  Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off.\n\nBottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between \"1 and 10 hours\".  Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef for 4-5 hours.\n\nBosch engineers take notice!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4079, "id": 517659, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 496, "len_tokens": 653, "text": "Don't...\nbuy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use.  This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models.  I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops.\n\nHere are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's \"Use and Care\" manual:\n\n500-series:\n[...]\n(page 14)\n\n800-series:\n[...]\n\nFlexinduction:\n[...]\n\nI called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call.  I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off.  I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to \"just turn off\" on its own.  On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and \"get back to me with an answer\".\n\nWell, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer.  The support people don't know and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer).  How strange is that?  But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to \"an unknown at Bosch\".  The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals:\n\"Automatic time limitation\nIf the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. \"F8\" and the residual heat indicator \"H/h\" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours).\"\n\nThe email also briefly revealed that \"a customer\" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations.  Whatsoever!  I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for \"safety reasons\" but no other details were offered.  Safety reasons?  Really?  Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state?  Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off  \"for safety reasons\"  Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others.\n\nI hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off?  Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off.\n\nBottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between \"1 and 10 hours\".  Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef for 4-5 hours.\n\nBosch engineers take notice!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4080, "id": 517810, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 551, "len_tokens": 650, "text": "We bought the Samsung RH299000SR side by side refrigerator on 6/26/14, during the 4th of July sales. It was delivered, at our request, on July 7th. The refrigerator design is elegant, sleek and modern. The handles are flush with the doors which gives it an interesting cleaner look.  The refrigerator door has the Showcase feature which is like a double door allowing access to items in the door by opening the Showcase door cover, without having to open  the door to the main compartment.\n\nPROS: the space in the showcase door is very roomy and flexible. It has 3 shelves with dividers, 2 open drawers with dividers (you can roll them out when the Showcase is open) and a shallow bottom shelf.  All dividers can be moved out of the way to allow full use of the space.\nThe Ice maker is really efficient and the ice bucket has a great capacity.  The bucket is easy to remove from the door for maintenance or just to empty and save the ice into another container.\nThe electronic controls for the basic functions are easy to use.\nThe interior led illumination is bright and very effective.\n\nCONS:\nWe don't know how the ice dispenser works because ours was defective. The flap to allow the ice to exit worked but the motor to turn the ice didnt.\nThe one sided handles are very awkward and counter intuitive. You have to use your left hand or twist your right wrist to open the refrigerator door on the right. It is not obvious which part of the refrigerator handle to pull to open the main door of the refrigerator or just the Showcase door.  It will take time, practice and frustration for it to become second nature.\nThe compartments of the showcase door do not keep temperatures consistent with the interior of the refrigerator. The temperature at the bottom shelf was more than 50 degrees and slightly progressively cooler on the others depending on their position.\nThe refrigerator door with the Showcase feature is very heavy to operate even when empty. If you don't guide it gently when closing it, it slams.\nThere are only 2 drawers in the refrigerator and one of them is not full size.\nThe freezer has four shelves and only 2 drawers, a third one would be more convenient.\nThe actual consumption of the water filter is not displayed, only when it is exhausted an indicator will turn on. My 12 years old Kenmore showed the percent left on the water filter life.\n\nConclusion:\nBased on the awkwardness and temperature control problem of the Showcase door of the side by side, the ice dispenser malfunction and the other issues we decided to return it to the seller.  We replaced it with Samsungs 4 door RF30HBEDBSR model on July 30th.  It has 2 french doors with Showcase in one of them, a Cool zone drawer and a spacious freezer drawer. I have been monitoring the temperature in the different compartments of the refrigerator, the doors, the Cool zone drawer and the freezer and everything is fine. The Ice maker and dispenser work well. We will have a more comprehensive review of this model when we have more time to evaluate it, but, as of now, we believe it was the right decision.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4081, "id": 518268, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 474, "len_tokens": 606, "text": "I can't seem to get a simple answer to a simple question about this Bosch 4-burner 30\" gas cooktop, model NGM5055UC. The question is: Can this cooktop be used during a power outage, by lighting the burners with a match? I am thinking of switching from an electric cooktop to gas, and the only reason for doing this is if the cooktop can be used when the power goes out (which it does pretty often around here, sometimes for days). The problem is that I've gotten lots of answers, and they're all over the map. The owner's manual that goes with Bosch cooktops (8 different models) says: \"During a power failure, only the cooktop burners can be lit manually.\" That \"only\" puzzled me, since this manual applies specifically to\ncooktops, not to stoves with ovens (ovens definitely cannot be used during a power outage). So I asked my question on Amazon. The first reply was \"This unit has an electronic ignition, so in order to use the unit during a power failure you would need to manually light the burner.\" \"Manually\" presumably means using a match, rather than one's hands (by rubbing real hard on the burner?), but it didn't sound like the party who replied had ever actually tried it, so I asked again on Amazon. The second time I was told \"unfortunately there is a safety feature built into this cooktop that is an automatic shut off and a match will not work to light the unit when power is out.\" What's weird about these contradictory replies is that both were signed \"Goedekers\" (evidently a dealer).  So I continued my research by asking my question in a chat on the Lowe's website. The reply was \"Yes, it can be used during a power failure. No problem.\" I even phoned the manufacturer -- you would think they would know, wouldn't you?  The first time I phoned, I spoke to someone who didn't know the answer. She said \"Just a minute, I'll have to ask,\" and then I was disconnected. The second time I spoke to Chuck, who told me no, it wouldn't work during a power outage, but it turned out he was basing his reply on a single phone call he had from a dissatisfied customer. I asked if I could speak to someone who knew more about the way this particular cooktop was constructed, and he took my number and said someone would get back to me, but they never did. So I am baffled. I was planning to buy this cooktop, but I don't want it if it won't work during a power outage. Isn't there someone out there who actually owns this 4-burner 30\" Bosch gas cooktop, model NGM5055UC, and who has actually used it, or tried unsuccessfully to use it, during a power outage?", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4082, "id": 520242, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 385, "len_tokens": 651, "text": "My wife  is a passionate chef. We love cooking on gas. Before we decided on a cook-top, we looked at the high end&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Thermador-SGSX365FS-36-Masterpiece-Gas-Cooktop-Stainless/dp/B001F86EW4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Thermador : SGSX365FS 36 Masterpiece Gas Cooktop Stainless</a>&nbsp;. What made this gas cook-top famous is the simmering, (low flame) of 250 BTU. It has also a star shaped burner, that heats uniformly.  Thermador  is number one rated in gas cooktop in Consumer Reports and the model is at least three years old. The reliability of this high end appliance 8 in a 100 (according to consumer reports) There is a video on how to clean a Thermador. Search youtube. It requires  a toothpick (careful not to break it when cleaning the burner) cotton swabs and lots of patience. Considering cleaning after each use...\n\n For some reason, Bosch cooktops are not reviewed on Consumer Reports. But in the reliability graph of Thermador, Bosch cooktops are #1 with 4  in 100 failures. The model&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Bosch-NGM8055UC800-30-34-Stainless-Steel-Gas-Sealed-Burner-Cooktop/dp/B00JDB5TO4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Bosch NGM8055UC800 30\" Stainless Steel Gas Sealed Burner Cooktop</a>&nbsp;has 18,000 BTU maximum flame ans 550 BTU simmering and costs half the Thermador price. Many people may buy this Bosch cooktop for its' beauy, but it is easy to clean and twice as reliable as Thermador. Please watch the video on how to clean it and compare\n\nThe Bosch NGMP655UC: 36\" Gas Cooktop Benchmark started selling since April 2016. It is an absolute beauty, with a central  burner that gives 20,000 BTU maximum flame that goes to a minimum of 400 BTU simmering. I don't think any human will notice the difference from 400 BTU to 250 BTU in real life. And this model is 40% lower priced than Thermador.\n\nThere is the emotional reaction. The installer - who installed almost all models of appliances was evidently impressed with the Bosch Benchmark model. This cooktop. changed our kitchen without changing anything else. Nobody knows the future. But the feeling of exhilaration and sheer pleasure that an object can bring you home the joy of having something new. The only other company that has similar success in User Design. is Apple computer.\n\nYou don't want a restaurant gas cooktop. Because your home is not a restaurant. You want finesse, beauty and ability to cook anything the restaurant cooks with the same precision and taste.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4083, "id": 520251, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 497, "len_tokens": 625, "text": "This is the most terrible washing machine I have ever used. BEWARE! STAY AWAY from any top-loading washing machine that does not have a center agitator. IT DOES NOT GET YOUR CLOTHES CLEAN. Instead, it inspires feelings of hatred, frustration, anger, loathing, and revulsion because it simply does not do the main and only thing that it is made for (washing clothes).\n\nThis machine has a silver sensor in the center of the bottom of the machine, and you have to arrange your clothes around the sensor and make sure you do not cover up the sensor. Fine, no problem, I can do that. In fact, I am VERY purposeful about knowing the instructions in detail for how to appropriately use the washer. The user's manual says, \"Load dry items loosely in the washer basket. For best results, load items evenly and loosely around the outside of the basket.\" However, no matter how exactly you make sure that you arrange the clothes perfectly and use the precise amount of the correct High Efficiency soap, this washer WILL NOT WORK.\n\nAt the end of EVERY cycle over the past 5-6 months, I consistently experience all of these problems:\n\n  Clothes are not clean\n  Odor is not removed\n  Certain portions of various articles of clothing never even got wet\n  1-2 items per load have large, slimy sections where they are still coated with soap (even doing an extra rinse)\n\nAnother negative is that the washer is HUGE and looks like it has a giant capacity, but you cannot put many clothes in it because once you arrange them to a certain height, they start to fall down into the middle and cover the sensor. The user's manual gives the following example of items for a \"normal\" load:\n\n6 Shirts (Mens or Womens)\n4 Pair Pants (Khakis or Twills)\n5 T-shirts\n7 Pairs of Boxers\n4 Pairs of Shorts\n\nOR\n\n6 T-shirts\n4 Pairs of Sweatpants\n4 Sweatshirts\n2 Hoodies\n7 Pairs of Socks\n\nWhen you put that much into the basket, it only fills it about a fourth of the way up, but if you put any more into the load, the results and cleanliness go correspondingly downhill.\n\nI have used a very wide range of washing machines over the years - top loading, front loading, laundromats, etc. In general, despite variations in quality and modern cycle options, I have had no reason to complain about any of them. This washer, on the other hand, is so frustratingly, ridiculously USELESS that even though I have a washer in the house, I have to go to a laundromat if I am going to get my clothes clean.\n\nThe accompanying photo shows the sleeve of my coat after the completion of the \"Bulky Items\" cycle. I immediately put it back in on the \"Heavy Soil\" cycle and it came out just as dirty, at which point I gave up and put it in the dryer and went to post this review.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4084, "id": 520858, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 550, "len_tokens": 611, "text": "After a just over a year of use it's time to give my review. It arrived well packaged and installed easily enough.\nThe igniter works by pressing down on the burner know you want to light and it actually turns on the igniters for all 5 burners. By turning the knob it release gas to that burner and in theory it lights and you are ready to cook.\nFirst problem was that only 1 of the burners would stay lit and that was after a few minutes of coaxing. It has a safety feature and will only light after a certain amount of time, I believe it was 30 seconds according to the manual but I was lucky if I could get it to stay lit after 3 minutes.\nThe other 4 burners would not even produce a flame. After hours of research and attempts to clean this or that I contacted the seller and was given the option to simply replace the igniters and they would send them no problem. I agreed and a week or so later they came. I replaced them and all the burners started to produce a flame.\nThere were still two major problems.\nSometimes they would light after holding the igniter down for a couple minutes or so. Sometimes you could hold it down for 5 minutes, it would lite but as soon as you let go of the igniter it went out.\nThe big problem that was pretty scary is that the two lower burned would light sometimes and they leaked gas. They would lit and about 2 minutes later a loud boom could be hear and the cabinet doors would blow open.\nI contacted the seller again and they advised that I try and replace one more thing and if that didn't work we could have it replaced at no charge. I replaced the components they sent and nothing changed. Every contact attempt afterwards was ignored and I have not heard form them. We got the stove so we could some what get the center burner going after about 5 minutes and maybe the top left one but never more than two.\nNever had this problem with the old stove we replaced.\nHad someone come out and make sure it was installed correctly and for $65 they told me everything looked good.\nWe have a service through our local gas utility provider that covers repairs on all our appliances. Have had them out on dryer, washer and oven and no problem with getting things fixed.\nOn this cook top there is no serial number so our local utility provider will not cover the repairs. I won't get into what the old man with 25 yrs of appliance repair had to say about the quality of the cook top but never the less we were unable to get it repaired.\nDecided to go ahead and purchase another one locally and it's been working fine, not one issue.\nI see that some people have had good luck with these while others have had bad luck. Some level of problem is tolerable especially when purchasing on line and I am very patient. I am not telling anyone not to by or to boycott anyone I am simply telling you my experience so you are aware.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4085, "id": 522542, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 541, "len_tokens": 673, "text": "I needed to fill a space left by a leaky 42 inch vintage Wedgewood (time bomb) gas range in our circa 1930s historic homes kitchen. Since Im no gourmet cook, and an expensive pro style gas range was the last thing Id ever consider buying, I had to quickly become an expert on the subject.\nTurns out that these things can get really expensive. After the initial sticker shock wore off (it really hasn't worn off yet) I went online and found that a 36 inch Pro Style rig could easily fill the space left by the enormous Wedgewood. So I looked around for used ranges and nothing came up. I even looked at commercial pro gas ranges that were lower priced than most pro-style home ranges, but found that if you put one of those in your kitchen, your home instantly becomes uninsurable.\nSo, after some extensive research; including reading dozens of online reviews, I came upon three all-gas options under four 4 grand: a Blue Star BlueStar Culinary Series RCS366BV2, a Bertazonni 36 Master Series MAS365GASXE01, and a Verona VEFSGG365NSS.\nThe Blue Star was my favorite because it looked exactly like a clunky and rugged restaurant style range. The Bertazzoni Master Series was its polar opposite; very sleek and refined. For me, the Verona was a perfect blend of the two others. It looked slightly clunky and rugged, but also had a somewhat sleek and refined look as well. The reviews on all three models were very positive, and none had any fiddly electronic elements to deal with, but I was really leaning towards the Verona\nHeres what finally tipped the scales in the Veronas favor; I could get it on Amazon with ZERO sales tax and FREE shipping from the Home Care Company. The customer service from Home Care was top-notch and the range arrived earlier than expected. The  professional and courteous delivery team rolled it right into my kitchen and unboxed it in front of me so I could inspect it for any damage. It came in flawless condition and was absolutely gorgeous. And it fit perfectly where the old Wedgewood had been.\nI had it hooked up by a local appliance pro and have been cooking on it ever since. It works beautifully, has awesome safety features, its five burners can accommodate any level of cooking expertise, and it makes our kitchen look AMAZING! Ive already gotten lots of compliments on this stove and I know that when I decide to resell my historic home, my kitchen will have that WOW factor buyers will be looking for.\n\n3/14//2016 - I just wanted to add a quick update to my last review - this stove has really made cooking FUN again! Everyone who sees the rig just falls in love with it. We've just tested the convection oven and baked up an awesome quiche that came out better than PERFECT. And there's so much space underneath the rig that cleaning is a breeze.\n\nI'll admit that we're always a little apprehensive about cooking anything in or on it because it's so pristine and pretty, and we don't want to get it all dirty, but it cleans up very easily once we've finished using it. It's AWESOME... AWESOME...AWESOME!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4086, "id": 526989, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 498, "len_tokens": 621, "text": "My Whirlpool Duet Sport ht stopped at an unknown point in the wash cycle, displayed F24 error code, and left saturated clothes in the locked washer. It allowed me to cancel and run a rinse/spin cycle. It also would run a full cycle using cold water.\n\nAccording to Whirlpool's diagnostic guide attached inside the lower front panel (also available on-line), F24 is a water temperature sensor error, and could also mean an open heating element (infinite resistance). Comments at various web sites suggest a loose sensor connector or broken sensor wire is a common cause of this error. Others suggest unplugging the machine for 30 minutes and seeing if that clears the error.\n\nThere is conflicting information on the web about the location of the sensor for Duet Sport ht. On my WFW8500SR00, it's in the back, near the bottom, and obvious once you remove the back panel. Of course, you will unplug the washer before opening it up.\n\nMy time was limited, as is the space in my ridiculously-tiny laundry room. If I'm going to bend my no-longer 20-year-old body into the shapes required to get behind the washing machine, it's not going to be just for checking loose wires. I'm going to have whatever parts I'm likely to need if the wires are OK, so if I can successfully extricate myself, I only have to do it once, even if it means I buy spare parts I'll never use.\n\nThere are two back panels, with the small upper one overlapping the lower. The top panel doesn't have to be removed -- just use a 1/4\" nut driver to remove the screws holding the lower panel, including the row of screws common to both panels; the lower panel slides down. The plastic hose holder can stay. The panel has notches around some screws -- those screws stay.  Two screws are in indentations. I suggest removing them last, and reinstalling them first, because they hold the panel on pretty well by themselves. The screw on the very bottom center is easy to miss.\n\nOne of the on-line videos shows prying out the heater/sensor assembly. I didn't do that. Instead, I squeezed the temp sensor connector with my fingers and gently pulled it off, then used ordinary 6\" slip-joint pliers to slowly rock the sensor out toward me. It didn't come easily, because the part exposed to water was coated with mineral deposits (our water is neither hard nor soft). I rubbed some automotive rubber lubricant on the new sensor, and it slid right into the rubber gasket that holds it  -- soapy water would have worked just as well. I found no loose or broken wires. Without disconnecting any wires, I tested the heating element with an ohmmeter -- it was a healthy 15 ohms.\n\nAmazon's tool reported it didn't know whether this sensor fits my washer. It does, and other sites listed it as a match. I received a genuine Whirlpool part. Vendor was Amazon.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4087, "id": 528467, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 425, "len_tokens": 625, "text": "This review is not part of the Vine program nor was it sponsored in any other way.\nI bought this because the listing said \"by Whirlpool\". I didn't realize that what is pictured here and all over Amazon as the genuine Whirlpool / Maytag part is actually an after market part. If you are looking for an after market set you can save (currently) $4 by ordering this&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Drum-Roller-with-Shaft-Replaces-Maytag-303373-12001541/dp/B006WNLUQM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Drum Roller with Shaft Replaces Maytag 303373 12001541</a>&nbsp;instead. They admit it is after market and cut you in on the savings.\nBy the way, it is fairly rare for a repair to require any new shafts, or a left roller. The right side roller takes most of the abuse. Clean the old shaft well with a rag dampened with penetrating oil, then apply one drop of 20 weight oil before sliding the new roller on. While you are in there you should give the left roller the same treatment. Try not to flip the wheel around so that it will now turn the opposite way in case the wheel is worn with the shaft. In most cases your best bet is to purchase just one of the real-deal OEM rollers&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-12001541-Drum-Roller-for-Dryer/dp/B0053Y2MU4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool 12001541 Drum Roller for Dryer</a>. You might notice that the GENUINE roller, whose picture in any of these listings is as elusive as a picture of Sasquatch, uses more of a translucent plastic, where this wheel is white. Also, on the one side of the genuine wheel you can see four extra posts next to the hub where the plastic was injected and the posts cut off.\nWhat seller \"Parts Appliance Chicago\" sent me from this listing was two of the white washers, pictured in the lower left, none of the wavy / spring washers in the upper left, and no nut. But they did manage to send me two rollers! The seller was tricky because they sent a genuine FSP shaft in the bag to make it appear as if the whole set was FSP. The smell of cheap Chinese rubber gives it away. I doubt the OEM wheel is made of that garbage. Now the question is, did I receive two half decent ERP brand knock-offs, or did I get some real junk? I don't know. I will come back and update this if the rollers fall apart in the next year or two but I suppose by then this listing will be removed.\nUPDATE 1-16, the dryer is still functioning well with two of these no-name rollers.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4088, "id": 529572, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 350, "len_tokens": 655, "text": "This fits - among others -\n>>> 1964 Frigidaire Flair Custom Deluxe RCIB 645-2\n\n> Surface burner INFINITE control SWITCH for 8 inch burner, 240 volts.\n> That will be the left rear big burner on RCIB 645-2 = infinite heat =\nwhich is simply a regular switch = which allows heat from low to high and everywhere in between,\nhence the name infinite.\n\n>>> (An infinite heat switch DIFFERS from \"Low - Med - High switches, which provides only three heat settings)\n> Typically when a switch malfunctions, the surface element (burner) will not heat,\nor will remain on high in every position.\n\n>>> ALSO - speaking for ONLY FRIGIDAIRE RCIB 645-2 stoves =\nThis Frigidaire 5309957099 is also the correct switch for the RIGHT FRONT 8\" burner =\nIF THE ELEMENT (burner) HAS EVER BEEN CHANGED FROM THE ORIGINAL 'HEAT-MINDER' element\nand NOW IS AN INFINITE HEAT ELEMENT.\nOR = (as in our case) CUT THE WIRE OFF HEAT MINDER BUTTON\nand change switch to infinite heat switch. (because burner still works)\n>>> Matching 8\" element = Frigidaire 5306590805\n\n> This part - Frigidaire OEM Part # 5309957099 = fits - Frigidaire model RCIB-645-2\nSearches on a couple main web sites for appliance parts shows many part #'s this 5309957099 replace\n\nReplaces Part Number 5307534769\nReplaces Part Number 09957099\nReplaces Part Number 07534769\nReplaces Part Number 07526396\nReplaces Part Number 07525722\nReplaces Part Number 07525721\nReplaces Part Number 07522792\nReplaces Part Number 07521370\nReplaces Part Number 07521245\nReplaces Part Number 07521243 >>> this is the # that was on original switch - just replaced for L.R. burner.\nReplaces Part Number 07520196\nReplaces Part Number 06591447\nReplaces Part Number 06590463\nReplaces Part Number 06564355\nReplaces Part Number 06564312\nReplaces Part Number 06563695\nReplaces Part Number 06563645\nReplaces Part Number 06562429\nReplaces Part Number T6539547\n\nReplaces 2525\nReplaces 6539547\nReplaces 6563695\nReplaces 6590463\nReplaces 66004-9AF\nReplaces 7521243\nReplaces 7521245,\nReplaces 7521370\nReplaces 7522792\nReplaces 7525721\nReplaces 7525722\nReplaces 7526396\nReplaces 7534769\nReplaces 9950919\nReplaces 9957099\nReplaces AH474739\nReplaces EA474739\nReplaces N9950919\nReplaces PS474739\nReplacesT6539547.\n\nOne of two switches recently replaced.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4089, "id": 534093, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 567, "len_tokens": 654, "text": "The seller I purchased the item from is Amazon LLC\n\nEasy easy easy! The bake and convection bake buttons stopped working on my 10 year old GE profile stainless and black range. I searched the internet for what might be wrong, diagnosed it was likely to be the control panel, found a how-to video on repairclinic dot com on how to replace the control panel and ordered the part here on Amazon. I used the GE and Sears website to match the exact model number of my range to the spare part required. Two day shipping and my item was here almost before I truly missed my range. The item was packaged nicely and was well protected.\n\nOnce I confirmed the item looked basically correct, I followed the repairclinic instructions, unplugged, and disassembled the top part of my range. Then I disconnected the existing control module. The entire process took about ten minutes. It's a but of a pain because all of the fasteners are different. A hex driver is required to remove the hex screws on the back. A star tip screw driver (very short or one with an elbow ratchet) is required to remove the lower screws on the front. A phillips head screw driver is required to remove the four screws the hold the control module in place. Once all of that was done, I unplugged the one connection and then replaced the old control panel assembly with the new one. Then I plugged the oven back in, checked to make sure the metal parts weren't \"hot\" and verified that the lights came on and the buttons worked. Everything worked perfectly.\n\nNext it was time to reassemble the range and this was the only difficult part. The key is to slip the top of the assembly over the back of the range holding the bottom away from the range at an angle, then tuck the \"guts\" so they fit inside the lower lip of the assembly, and then screw if all back together. The screw holes didn't match perfectly so it took a little holding and pressing to make it all fit tightly together, but in the end it all fit together perfectly. The reassembly took about 40 minutes. Before I did the final tighten of the screws I plugged it in once again to make sure everything still worked well and that nothing had come loose during the reassembly. All worked perfectly so I unplugged again, retightened the screws, plugged it in again and pushed my range back into place.\n\nThe entire repair took about an hour. I would classify it as very easy with the reassembly requiring patience not brute force. I am a 55 year old woman who is not handy, and I did this by myself. I've never done anything like this repair before. The range is in a remote location so a repair person was not an option. Circumstances forced me to address this problem on my own and completing it successfully was a real confidence booster.\n\nI'm very pleased with my purchase and am happy to have my range back in working order. I really appreciate that Amazon carries these repair parts and that they ship to far flung places. Replacing this unit was a very positive experience and, since the visible parts of the control assembly have been completely replaced, my range looks brand new. Very pleased.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4090, "id": 534677, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 549, "len_tokens": 665, "text": "I owe this beverage center a review after several months of issue-free operation. I was hesitant to do so too quickly after another brand/model failed miserably on us after only a few months.\n\nAs mentioned, we have had no issues with this unit at all.  It is impressively quiet (especially compared to the other equally expensive unit it replaced) and gets the job done. I guess that's one of the best compliments you can give one of these things.  You don't really notice it until you need it.\n\nWe removed the top half-shelf, which makes it much more functional for our needs (including beer bottles and other items that height).\n\nA minor nit is that I wish there was an option to simply leave the LED light on at all times. Instead, the maximum is a few hours. Energy efficiency thrust upon you, I guess, but LEDs are not exactly power hogs.\n\nI will update the review if and when we ever have problems, but here's to my not having to ever do so!\n\n\nAs promised, I am reporting back with an update as to an issue that has later arisen.  Overall, the unit is still performing very well and quietly. One odd issue that has popped up though, is that the unit sometimes gives off an open door alarm when the door is quite clearly closed and sealed.  So, it is a sensor (not operational) issue.  A repair company came out (entirely free via warranty) and said it is just a metal piece along the bottom that becomes unaligned (he made it sound like this was not the first time they have dealt with it) and the sensor doesn't think there is contact with it.  Unfortunately, the alarm is still occurring intermittently, but it doesn't shut down the unit, so it is more of an annoyance than anything.  Would certainly still purchase and recommend this product but they need to take a look at this design issue.\n\n[UPDATE (December 8, 2016)]\nThe false (door ajar) alarm was continuing intermittently so we called out the repair guy again. This time I was there to see exactly what he did.  It really is as simple moving this piece of metallic tape back down, at the bottom lip of the fridge.  It just kind of shimmies up and doesn't connect with whatever is in the door to tell the unit it is closed.  A very simple fix that has worked.  Still going strong (and quietly!) with no other complaints.\n\n[UPDATE (October 3, 2017)]\nI am reducing my rating to 4 stars because this door sensor issue will not go away.  See my comment of this same date in response to someone having the same problem, but bottom line is that this method of sensing whether the door is closed is problematic and seemingly very shoddy compared to the rest of the unit. As I mention in my comment, I have furniture wedged up against this thing to press the door closed (and initiate the sensor) until I can once again get someone out to (maybe??) fix it.  They need a better system or some sort of sensor redundancy.  Otherwise, it is still operating quietly and very well. I don't regret the purchase but this has been very frustrating.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4091, "id": 535082, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 554, "len_tokens": 686, "text": "We have had this refrigerator for about 4 months now.  It was a replacement to a TINY refrigerator.  We reconfigured our kitchen, and were able to utilize a new area for a fridge, so happily, got to go significantly bigger.  Still had to go counter-depth and smaller than I would have wanted, but that being said?  I love this refrigerator.\n\nCounter-depth does cost you a lot of cubic feet in storage, but I love the way that it feels more built-in.  And it's hard to get to the back of a deep refrigerator anyway - things can get lost.  In our situation a standard depth would have extended beyond the door frame into the living room, which was not an option.  We have a small home over all, and a small kitchen.  This unit allowed us to get all of the bells and whistles we wanted, and still have decent storage capacity in our somewhat limited space.\n\nThis refrigerator is BEAUTIFUL, and has lots of great features.  I love the way the ice maker is \"hidden\" behind storage inside the door.  So many others that we looked at had a ugly, obtrusive ice maker as the focal point on the door.  It WAS very slow making ice for about the first week.  But since then,  no problems.  It DOES make some funny noises every once in awhile, but it is NOT noisy.  Just odd noises periodically.  Great versatility in the way you can configure trays and shelving.  The only negative to me is the two smaller (for fruits and vegetables) storage drawers.  They are too small in my opinion, so I have to store a lot of my veggies outside of the drawers.  They are fine, so it's not a big deal to me, but I would have preferred a larger capacity.  TO me, that's the only negative.\n\nI LOVE the Temp Select Zone Drawer.  It is full-width, spacious, and allows you to change temperature for either meat, beverage or deli.  The drawer lights up red, blue or green (changing to bright white) depending on the setting you have chosen.  All of the spotlight lighting in both the fridge and freezer is amazing.  No way that anything can hide, because the entire refrigerator is beautifully illuminated. Even the freezer, which is nicely compartmentalized, and has a great pull out drawer at the top for items you want to reach quickly.\n\nAs you can see we are right up against the wall on the left side, and cannot open the door past 90 degrees.  It doe not limit us in any way.  All of the drawers open fully due to the smartly configured shelves on the doors.\n\nI thought that the photo viewer was a silly idea, but I have to admit that it's kind of fun to watch our doggie's slideshow on the door!!  The exterior light on the dispenser area is very pretty - acts as a nightlight in a dark kitchen.  The only idea that escapes me is the hot water dispenser.  It takes 5 minutes to heat enough water for a mug.  Just use the microwave.\n\nI HIGHLY recommend this refrigerator, especially for folks with limited space available to them.  It's gorgeous, and will give you all the fun features you want in a modern fridge, just in a smaller package!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4092, "id": 535300, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 571, "len_tokens": 692, "text": "I am experiencing the exact same problems that Charles is with this Frigidaire.\n\nFridge worked fine for about 4 months then began making terribly loud rattling sounds, like a broken fan or something. This apparently then caused the freezer to completely freeze over, no longer self-defrosting as advertised, and also with the added bonus of cutting off any cooling to the refrigerator itself thus spoiling hundreds of dollars worth of food.\n\nThe knob inside the freezer is cheaply made and poorly designed for its uses. It is a plastic turn knob like on a dryer, built tightly into it's space and hard to grip, and apparently attaches to some control behind it that (I think) it can completely break loose of. So upon initially finding the freezer freezing over, my first obvious plan was to turn it down with the knob provided, I know...genius right? Upon doing this the knob felt like it broke free of whatever it is attached to inside of the refrigerator. Not sure if the freezer broke first and froze the knob, or if somehow the knob broke causing the freezer to go full blast. I can't fathom how this could be since at no time did I ever have the freezer turned up past half. Finally, one day out of frustration, I tried it again. Knowing all too well it wouldn't have any affect on the temperature, I turned it. To my disappointment, the knob completely cracked off.\n\nI have an appointment scheduled to have it looked and will update with how that goes.\n\n*UPDATE\n\nHad a service tech from an appliance repair company stop over and he is putting in an order for a new fan. He claims he \"really helped us out\" since Frigidaire doesn't consider the knob that is integral to the operation of the freezer, and the fridge as a whole, a worthwhile issue to help its customers with.\n\nFrigidaire goes as far as to say that any knob, control, etc is purely a \"cosmetic\" issue.\n\nCan you believe that? The control for the entire refrigerator, which it is completely useless and inoperable without, is only cosmetic?\n\nGlad you don't build automobiles Frigidaire, because I wouldn't want to be in the vehicle that breaks a steering wheel loose and have you tell me it was my fault, being too rough, then go on to tell me it's only cosmetic lol. How about this Frigidaire, try building a quality product for once, that you actually have the confidence to back up and stop ripping customers off with low quality junk and terrible customer service.\n\nWhat a joke of a fridge, and an even bigger joke of a company.\n\n**UPDATE #2\n\nThe fan that pulls cool air into the refrigerator has broken once again and is no longer cooling properly, as in hardly at all. Once again this happened after spending about $200 on groceries and stocking it full. I found out that my landlord bought a warranty for this refrigerator (good idea but completely pathetic that it was necessary) so I will be contacting Frigidaire's warranty department and reply with an update. At this point I'm ready to contact whatever agency will help me with this lemon of a product.\n\nThis \"refrigerator,\" built by Frigidaire, has cost a poor college kid hundreds of dollars in wasted groceries and massive inconveniences.\n\nFrigidaire should immediately recall this terrible product before anyone else falls victim.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4093, "id": 535762, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 547, "len_tokens": 624, "text": "It was a direct replacement for the OEM. Zero issues swapping it out.\n\nA few days after the installation with the refrigerator running fine to that point, the refigerator then started running warm in the refrigerator section but cold in the freezer. A little research and frozen evaporator coils due to a defrost issue was a likely cause.  I had marked the shaft of the timer and verified rotation after installation indicating the defrost timer clock was working.. but not any more. I didn't get to the root cause instantly as the part was new, I had verified it after installation and the previous one lasted 29 years.\n\nI manually rotated the shaft with a screw driver and put it into defrost cycle. You can tell because the compressor and the fan stop when you hit that point on the clock and they had been running steadily for 2 days (because the refrigerator section never reached temperature, due to the now block of ice evaporator coils).\n\nAfter manually timing the defrost cycle to thaw the frozen coils (yielding a good quart of water in the drip pan) I killed power and uninstalled the new unit intending to put the old suspect one back when I found the problem. While the new unit is very similar to and identical in mounting to the OEM there is one difference. In the OEM version the power for the timer is hard wired in, in the Supco there are two thin spade lugs that straddle the robust terminals for power connector. They are very light weight as minimal power is required to run the defrost timer clock but one of them had broken where the thin body of the spade meets the part of the spade that is crimped on to the wire.\n\nDid I bump it during installation, maybe but the bend in the wires and lugs between the broken and unbroken sides appeared identical save for the 1/16\" air gap between the pieces of the broken spade. It is more likely it was stressed during during manufacture when the spade was pushed into place or during packaging.\n\nSince the original is suspect I soldered the pieces of the spade together and for good measure added a dollop of solder on the still good connector to reinforce it at the weak spot and now the timer rotates again.\n\nOriginally swapping this Supco part for the OEM was a very easy change out but since I had to repair it after a couple of days of running, it only gets 2 stars. I suspect getting connector(s) that were stressed is just my bad luck but it illustrates how light weight the spades connectors are. No human hands touched it after installation so the failure had to be vibration induced (beyond the initial stress).\n\nI would buy the unit again but I also would take the preventative measure of adding a touch of solder at the weak spot as described and who doesn't like a part they feel compelled to strengthen before putting it into service for it's designed use?  Were is not for the paper thin spade lugs, this would get 5 stars. I have written Supco customer service expecting nothing other than hoping for future product improvement.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4094, "id": 536455, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 562, "len_tokens": 698, "text": "We enjoyed our LG fridge for about six months. Then, the never-ending battle began.\n\nFirst, we heard a knocking sound. After answering the door to no one for the tenth time, we realized it was the fridge. I Googled. I read the manual. I scratched my head. Unplug it, everything more-or-less told me. Great; restart it. Hold down CTRL+ALT+DELETE at the same time. Got it.\n\nI left it unplugged for the recommended four hours. Then I powered it back up and the knocking immediately commenced. A few days later, we got the IF error code.\n\nError code? A refrigerator has an error code? Seriously. This was too complicated already. Once again, I turned to Google, the manual, and my scalp.  I called the store. After all, they had strongarmed us into a warranty I didn't want, and Im so glad they did.\n\nSo the repairman came out. He told me that these fridges were notorious for breaking down. Then he proceeded to show me how to repair it myself because, This isn't the first time and it won't be the last.\n\nWe took the entire freezer apart to get to the ice blower fan, essentially. It gets frozen solid. Every three months like clockwork.\n\nWas it manageable? Yeah. First world problems and all that. But then other stuff started going down:\n\n-The large mechanism that slides into some other cheap, plastic part did something stupid, so the door wouldnt always close. So guests would shut our fridge but not shut our fridge, which resulted in \n-A ripped rubber door seal.\n-No matter what temp the fridge was set at, food sitting directly on the glass shelves or in two of the three produce drawers would freeze. And were not talking about some delightful icy crunch. Entire pieces of fruit, meat, even cheese would freeze solid. Did you know cheese could turn into ice? It can. We cannot store food in half of our fridge. (However, I lined all of the shelves in newspaper, which seems to have helped. Plus, I can now read about the local elections from a year ago every morning while I get the orange juice.)\n-The freezer fan clogs with ice so often, I have to mention it \n- twice.\n-The water dispensing button is starting to stick.\n-The ice dispenser clogs on a daily basis. We keep a knife honer nearby to stab into the bin. I repeat, this happens daily.\n-It gets fingerprinted to he77. I know this is a hazard of being an appliance in a home where the occupants have hands. But I hate this thing and now Im just searching for more to add to the list.\n-The water valve that connects the water line to the fridge wore out. So now we don't even get water or ice until I replace it.\n-And now the ice maker is broken. That's a $120 part.\n\nWe have a second fridge in our house. We got it for free from an apartment complex that was throwing them away. We keep it in the garage as a beer fridge. Dudes, this fridge (I don't even know the brand) is probably 20 years old (at least), is ugly as sin, and is chugging away like we do on  beer.\n\nMeanwhile, my $2,500 LG heartache mocks me with a frozen water melon, incessant ticking, and dripping water.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4095, "id": 537779, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 455, "len_tokens": 620, "text": "Just got this 2 weeks ago from my local Best Buy at less than $1000. It's a no-frills, space-maximized, low-profile fridge in a nut-shell. I wish its freezer was at the bottom as the fridge compartment should be the main focal point, at eye-level, and with the easiest accessibility.  Well, even though LG makes a bottom freezer (drawer) model, it costs like $200 more. No thanks.\n\nInterior lighting:  LEDs are nice and cool looking.  Illumination could be better for the back but totally within acceptable range.  Not an issue for me personally.  For those with issues, look into battery-powered motion-sensing LED stick-on lights - when you open the door, these lights turn on for a pre-set amount of time.\n\nNoise:  It's silent when its fans/compressor are not working.  When they're working though, they're on par with most modern fridges, this is no thermal-dynamic silent operation people.  But then again who succeeded in denying the law of acoustic physics thus far?  So a quiet fridge but do expect to hear noise.  Manual says that at room temperature of 70F, expect its compressor to run 40~70% of the time.  What a wide range...\n\nSettings:  Right now, I stick w/ the factory recommended ones: Freezer:3 / Fridge:3 lights.  I may lower these settings down the road as ice cream is too hard...\n\nOuch my feet:  Fridge door is massive and occupies all the way to the near bottom, beware when you close its door as the door will ram into your feet.  A lil' taller kickboard would help but then you'll lose storage volume.\n\nIce Maker:  It should be made easier to remove entirely.  It occupies too much space like now & most people from what I heard don't use/want it.\n\nLack of partitions:  It's actually a plus for me instead of a minus.  Right now, all I need to do is to get bins from The Container Store or IKEA to design my own storage interiors.  Also, a wide open space like this = extreme spaciousness.  It's what makes this fridge unique.\n\nThis fridge replaces my 8-yr old, 4-door, digital-display touchscreen Samsung one.  Which was a state-of-the-art $2500 super advanced fridge at the time.  You might think that this LG one is a downgrade, right?  Function wise & temperature setting wise; maybe.  Space saving wise (footprint); no. Storage volume wise; a huge upgrade, and looks wise; this doesn't pale next to the now defunct Samsung one.  This one looks just as modern with its stainless front and its silverish sides aren't ugly or too plastique either.  Get this.  Glad that I was on a budget and gave up on those pricey gimmicky multi-door / digital display ones or else I would never encounter this bargain fridge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4096, "id": 538164, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 507, "len_tokens": 608, "text": "Great looking range hood.\n\nUnfortunately it arrived with a small dent which fortunately will be hidden by installation. Packaging not thick enough for adequate protection for gorilla/drop-kick shipping cos. and handling between manufacturer and US consumer.\n\nMounting instructions were minimal and incorrect - as was the mounting planning design by the designers. I had to disassemble the lower under side of the range hood (10 screws with poor alignment when reassembled) to access the four top screw slot mounting points so it could be attached to the cabinets above securely. The corner/side mounts will not be useable if the hood is to be mounted between cabinets as in my case. The mounting screw slots in the top of the hood shell are too thin (screws bent metal while trying to mount) to support the weight of the hood without additional 1\" fender washers on the mounting screws to spread the load. There is no way to access the mounting screws (without disassembly) and mounting screws included are too short -1/2\"- for secure wood cabinet mounting and I substituted 3/4\" pan). Clearly, the designers were not familiar with or did they consider the typical American in-between kitchen cabinets mounting location for range hoods.\n\nThe halogen lights on the range hood put out a lot of light at the front of the cook surface, but get very hot - as in do not touch. They should have been tilt-able LEDs and I will probably replace them - as soon as I am over the excessive installation effort. Additionally, mine are focused to far to the front of my KitchenAid range to cover the cooking area and probably of most ranges. Still, my stove is better lighted than before.\n\nWhile the UGA ad says that the noise level is 65db at 900 cfm - it is probably at least that and likely more, and it doesn't significantly diminish between the different fan speeds as I was hoping. While it is the most powerful range hood (most range hoods are 180-300 cfm - compared to 900cfm for the UGA) I have ever seen (actually blows the leaves around on trees 20 feet away on the outside discharge) - it is also the LOUDEST at any speed. You may want ear protectors while cooking and conversation will be almost impossible unless the person is standing immediately next to you and your ear - and shouting. If your goal is to get have an attractive range hood and to get cooking fumes and smells out of your house - this range hood will do it. However, be prepared for an unpleasant noise level - (that IMO with some minor engineering design changes [different bearings, vibration isolation fan motor mounts, fan intake baffles and a lower fan speed range] could have been mostly avoided).\n\nIn summary: It is a very attractive design IMO, but be prepared to spend some unexpected planning time, effort and a lot of frustration on installation. Don't forget to also order your ear protectors at the same time.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4097, "id": 538952, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 417, "len_tokens": 671, "text": "This is a long trail - but the end result is this DOES FIT - among others -\n>>> 1964 Frigidaire Flair Custom Deluxe  RCIB 645-2\n> Surface burner INFINITE control switch for 6 inch burner, 240 volts.\n> That will be the right rear small burner on RCIB 645-2 = infinite heat =\nwhich is simply a regular switch = which allows heat from low to high and everywhere in between,\nhence the name infinite.\n\n>>> (An infinite heat switch DIFFERS from \"Low - Med - High switches, which provides only three heat settings)\n> Typically when a switch malfunctions, the surface element (burner) will not heat,\nor will remain on high in every position.\n>>> Matching = 6\" element = Frigidaire 5306590804\n\n>>> ALSO - speaking for ONLY FRIGIDAIRE RCIB 645-2 stoves =\nThis Frigidaire 5309957098 is also the correct switch for the left front 6\" burner =\nIF THE ELEMENT (burner) HAS EVER BEEN CHANGED FROM THE ORIGINAL 'SPEED HEAT' element\nand NOW IS AN INFINITE HEAT ELEMENT.\n\n> This part - Frigidaire OEM Part #5309957098 = fits - Frigidaire model RCIB-645-2\n(which is same as first number replaced - now different by starting with 53 -)\nSearches on a couple main web sites for appliance parts shows many part #'s this 5309957098 replaces.\n\nReplaces Part Number 09957098\nReplaces Part Number 07533010\nReplaces Part Number 07532999\nReplaces Part Number 07531878\nReplaces Part Number 07531877\nReplaces Part Number 07531379\nReplaces Part Number 07526395\nReplaces Part Number 07525720\nReplaces Part Number 07521242\nReplaces Part Number 06563642\nReplaces part # 614\nReplaces part # 7521242\nReplaces part # 7525720\nReplaces part # 7526395\nReplaces part # 7531379\nReplaces part # 7532999\nReplaces part # 7533010\nReplaces part # 9950918\nReplaces part # 9957098\nReplaces part # AH474738\nReplaces part # EA474738\nReplaces part # GR5600\nReplaces part # N9950918 >>> this is the # on the switch just replaced on our stove = works perfectly\nReplaces part # PS474738\n---------------\n\nFootnote - 8\" ELEMENT SWITCH & ELEMENT = we had a lucky find on ebay\n>>> Frigidaire 5309957099 switch is correct for the left rear 8\" burner which has always been infinite heat.\nAnd = if the ORIGINAL RIGHT FRONT 'HEAT MINDER' element has ever been converted to a regular\nelement OR (as in our case) CUT THE WIRE OFF HEAT MINDER BUTTON\nand change switch to infinite heat switch. (because burner still works)\n>>> Matching 8\" element = Frigidaire 5306590805\n\nOne of two switches recently replaced.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4098, "id": 539324, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 558, "len_tokens": 690, "text": "I studied outdoor kegerators for several months.  You get a lot of bang for the buck with this unit.  Mine was missing a couple of screws and the channel lock tool but other than that it has been great.  Haven't had a chance to use outside my outdoor kitchen is not quite ready but so far here is my experience using indoors:\nUnpackaged unit a few weeks after it arrived.  Had a very visible denting going on in the front door apparent to the outside (box was perfect so either a manufacturing defect or left the factory damaged).\nSince my outdoor kitchen is not ready yet, and was using a loaner kegerator for craft beer (Baja Brewing) I figured I might as well test it out before too much time passed.  First since it was easier to move, I installed the coasters (which I will have to remove once I install in the final position).  Easy enough, but remember usually the coasters/wheels with the brake are for the front.\no problem.  I had to move from there to the current operating location which is up 2 stairs then another 2.  Not too difficult.  Put it where it would be for the time being then began to set up.  Arranged hoses, etc.  Had to remove the tower again because the gasket was I another place and was complaining because it was not there but it was but in another bag.  Also they do not mention that the screws from the top rail fit VERY tight (felt like I was stripping them).  Took me well over an hour from start to finish but all looked good although I have not yet installed the door handle or in the final under counter location which will be another chore to do correctly and a lot of ingenuity will be needed to create some type of sealed plastic insulated sheath between the above counter tower and under counter kegerator).  From there I left sit from about 1pm to 10AM and then connected.  Started with temp about 50 degrees.  Overall very quiet.  Loaded the first two sixth barrel kegs about 8-9pm.  Had for several days working great, but could not regulate correctly.  The instructions include a different regulation system that was is included.  I finally had the craft beer personnel here to help regulate.  Was much better but still not perfect.  I would fluctuate (to save electricity) between 40-50 degrees.  After several days and two more kegs, I started setting temp at 37 degrees.  Still quiet, comes on a bit more frequently but not bad.  After letting sit for 2 1/2 days, first pours came out perfect.  I have a black (Swartzbier style) ad a Blonde (Cream Ale style) and both pour great,\nI will mention that there is no apparent hole ready for an external CO2 tank (which each time my craft beer company delivers ad installs ten kegs tell me that the CO2 tank is dangerous inside the tank (currently using two sixth barrel kegs ad a regular size CO2 tank because I have yet to find someone in my area who will fill the small 5lb CO2 tank).\nOverall for price (although for a very small outdoor kegerator I find very pricey) compared to others and the features I would very highly recommend this EdgeStar unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4099, "id": 540819, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 550, "len_tokens": 675, "text": "Best machines on the market at this price bracket.\n\nBefore I go in to my own review, I want to point out (as per the comments on both his reviews) that Amazon reviewer \"Steve\" who has posted two identical negative reviews actually own a DIFFERENT MODEL (WM2650HRA, a cheaper and older unit). It seems he's cluster bombing any LG models on Amazon with this review and posting it twice - While he may be frustrated with his models, it's completely misleading for anyone looking at these machines because they are incredible.\n\nMy review: We needed new machines for home and I just wnated the best of the best. Sadly, since Maytag flooded the market with cheap machiens the high end of the market has narrowed considerably. I was advised by my local appliance store to buy Electrolux units (EIFLS60LT Washer & EIMED60LT dryer). It turned out to be the single worst purchase of any device in my lifetime; I won't go it in to here but after a year long battle with ElectroSUXS, 11 technician visits and 60+ hours of my life I'll never get back, they finally and begrudgingly sent replacements....which turned out to be BROKEN.\n\nThankfully the silver lining of this was the opportunity to get my money back from them! After a lot of research, which firstly involved talking to the various technicians that were coming to attempt to fix the Electrosuxs units, every single one said \"LG\", without even hesitating \"easy and cheap to fix, if they ever need it\" was the same response from each one.\n\nSo  I got these units from LG (WM4270 range) and after 4 months of use, I could not be happier. So much, that I just ordered a second pair for my business, even though the warranty doesn't cover commercial use. I don't care - they're that good.\n\nFirstly, HUGE drum size, yet small overall unit footprint. I can do 15-20 large, soaking wet towels without them even flinching. They also have a ton of of programs but they keep it simple on the dial. If you want to customize the programs then you can easily, using the little matrix buttons for each setting (temp, soil, spin speed etc) and a nice touch is that if you try to go outside what is sensible for that setting it won't let you (i.e. you're trying to to go max temp on a delicates setting). Simple things like this make it a real breeze to use if you just want it for basic functions but then you can also get really advanced with completely customized programs if you need (I haven't bothered yet).\n\nThese units are also really fast. Sub 20 min wash cycle and the paired dryer unit will dry a huge load of heavy clothes in around 45 mins.\n\nI could go on and on, but honestly, these are incredibly machines, period.\n\nThe only single issue that these have (the entire LG range have it) is that the internal valves for the hot and cold water feeds open and close very quickly. This can lead to water hammering (google it) in older houses where pipes aren't strapped or very long pipe runs, but this doesn't bother me as I have strapped pipes and hammer arrestors installed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4100, "id": 542316, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 554, "len_tokens": 677, "text": "Bought from Amazon reseller 1-Stop Camera to save on taxes and shipping. Took 30 days to get, and I paid $150 extra for installation. The installer was  a mover who had no training, was ignorant of gas-line installation, and did not have fittings available on his truck. When he started to install the flex hose to the house gas valve without teflon tape or pipe joint compound, I told him to stop and that I would do the install. 1-Stop refunded the install charge. The other hick-up was that the stove measures EXACTLY thirty inches wide, and my counter top had to be trimmed to fit the stove.\n\nAfter I successfully installed my new Kucht KRG3080U, I noticed that one of the burner grates did not sit flat on the stove. Kucht customer service was extremely responsive, and offered to immediately send a replacement, but suggested that I try moving exchanging the left and right grates to see if that would not make a difference, which it did.\n\nI've been fixing great meals on my new stove for about one week, and cannot be more pleased with a major appliance purchase. The quality is exceptional regarding form, fit, and function. The burners are high quality castings and machined brass that are made for disassembly and cleaning. Compared to my 27 year old Roper, the burners are huge! The valves have an unusually smooth feel and are capable of micro adjustment for precise flame control. In combination, the cooktop is like upgrading to perfect cookware that heats the food evenly, without the need to swap food from the outside of the skillet to the middle, for even browning. Speaking of browning, bacon cooks perfectly, without burnt parts for a crispy result, and butter melts without browning. The tiny burner ring on the two-ring burner is perfect for keeping pots warm, and can be used instead of a hot plate.\n\nEqually wonderful is the convection oven. First time I made a pizza that did not have to be turned midway through the cooking time, which you should note is reduced by about twenty percent when using the convection oven's fan.\n\nOne of the main reasons I purchased the Kucht stove was because it lacks the mother board almost all modern stoves are afflicted with. Stove manufacturers  love the motherboard because it fails fast (electronics do not like heat) and they can charge as much as a laptop costs to replace it. Other reasons include high quality parts, build quality, responsive customer service, and last but not least - great value.\n\nHaven't had this stove for long, but love it so far. My only complaint - and it's a minor one - is that one of the burner grates must be removed before you can remove the center grate, to clean the stainless steel strip between the burners.  At a fraction of the cost of a Thermador, Wolf, or Viking, the Kucht KRG3080U delivers on overall on quality and excellent cooking experience. The Kucht warranty explicitly states that the stove is made for residential use and will not be covered for constant/commercial use. The sheet metal on this stove is lightweight - only .025 inches thick - so it will not take the beating of an industrial kitchen. But for home use, this is a great stove!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4101, "id": 543997, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 579, "len_tokens": 696, "text": "We upgraded from a 15 year old refrigerator, so this model blows the old fridge away.  It has ample room in the fresh food storage and frozen food storage areas.  The small shelves on the ice maker door (the left hand door) are not adjustable, but come in handy nonetheless.  The shelves on the right hand door are adjustable and, as advertised, easily hold a gallon of milk.  The LED lights are nice, but I still think a bulb is out when I open the doors, because the LED lights are not as bright as the old kind.  The interior is dim, but you can see well enough.  The doors open and close with ease.  The multi-colored LED lit drawer adds some coolness to the fridge.  The water filter is easy to get to and change out.  However, the filters run close to twenty-five dollars a piece.  I imagine a generic filter will come out soon enough that will be lower in price.  There are three places to get ice.  One is in the door of course, another is a small tray inside the left hand door, and the third is in the freezer.  I like that you can turn the one in the freezer off.  The upper tray holds plenty for the two adults in our house.  The freezer is well lit and food is easy to see and get to.  The unit cooled down quickly after initial setup.  We have had the refrigerator for a couple of weeks and, overall, we are very pleased with it.\n\nAs for shipping, we order online constantly, but we had never order something this big.  However, the price here was more than 900 dollars less than local, so we thought it was worth taking a chance on shipping.  It took about ten days to arrive, but it was in showroom condition when it got here.  Not a scratch on it.  The delivery company notified us via email when they picked fridge up.  We did not hear anything more until a few days before delivery.  They emailed and called on a Friday to let us know the delivery would be made the next Monday.  It arrived within the time window promised.  The delivery guys were nice and helpful.  They opened the box so I could inspect it prior to accepting it.  They volunteered to move the refrigerator into my garage.  I handled the actual installation, which was easy for an experienced do-it-yourselfer like me.  There is a lot of packing material inside and out that took a while to remove.  In my case I had to remove the doors to fit the unit through the door of the house, but I choose a 32 inch door.  You might have to remove the door handles if you use a 36 inch door.  Removing the doors and reinstalling them was easy and took about 45 minutes.  I think the handles are held on by allen wrench screws. Once on solid flooring the fridge rolled easily.  After install you lower the front braces to hold it in place.\n\nOne last thing, the bypass water filter device is pre-installed in the water filter housing.  The refrigerator comes with a water filter, which was taped inside the fresh food storage area.  I mention this, because I was convinced the bypass device was not included since I did not see it anywhere.  It was not until I went to install the filter that I saw the bypass device.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4102, "id": 544414, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 560, "len_tokens": 674, "text": "We do not own this EXACT LG frig, but one similar to it and LOVE it except for one HORRIFIC flaw that  this refrigerator appears to share with a one we already own, that you should be aware of and which LG has done nothing to fix and which can cost you thousands in repair bills.\n\nThe door panel to the left of the water/ice dispenser goes bad, on a regular basis and it both stops the panel from working , so nothing is dispenses or settings changed and 'peels' off the base plate. Luckily, we purchased a four year extended warranty and the repair charges, thankfully under warranty were $680.00 for the first repair (April 2016) and $480 for the second (Nov 2016).\nThe repairmen both said that although they are unsure of the exact cause, it appeared to them that the ice maker, located directly above this control panel on the door, somehow was allowing moisture into the housing behind the control panel, condensing and causing the shorting of the panel and then The condensation that had gotten inside of the housing and on the back of the door panel control caused  The front plastic outer covering to begin peeling off of the panel itself, from the bottom up, with an ugly black 'V' that can't be removed under the peeled bottom section. So that when you approach the refrigerator you see through the clear plastic outer touch panel, a prominent 'V' shaped Mark,  like some little kid took a sharpie to it and I could not remove it.\nTwo more points for your consideration.  The first time I called the warranty company, their representative tried to blow me off and say, 'we do not cover cosmetic issues, including the control panel peeling away' and it was ONLY when I said, it is not JUST the peeling, but error codes are coming up about the defrost cycle lasting over an hour (funny looking codes but something li,e R U 8) and I told her that the panel had 'freezes' for hours at a time and no ice/water, etc can be dispenses and the frig does not run did they finally and reluctantly agree to send anyone out and please be aware, this happened in April & again, in Nov 2016, both times requiring replacement of the control panel so if you decide to take a chance, you may want to purchase as long an extended warranty as you possibly can. It appears to me that these warranty companies are aware of what's going on with this model and they will try to claim  it is a cosmetic issue.  Don't let them.\nLastly. Do not take my word for this, look at other reviewers on similar LG refrigerators that have had EXACTLY the same problems. I want to love this refrigerator and as far as we are concerned if, IF, they ever fixed this issue, which it does  not appear to be so far it's part of their improvement program, since we are building a new house, I would buy this refrigerator again in a second, but until I see evidence that they have, and we have not, again check the  other  reviewer's, then sorry,  it's really a one star but I give it two because other than this NO star door panel issue,we love the refrigerator", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4103, "id": 547804, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 573, "len_tokens": 686, "text": "Just installed this new model 36 inch GE induction cooktop three days ago. The installation only took about an hour including electrical connection. This cooktop is replacing the exact same model we had installed in our old kitchen from about 6-7 years ago. I have always raved about this induction cooktop and I would not replace it with any other brand or type. The price was right, it heats up in a hurry, and it is very easy to clean. I believe induction, with the right pots and pans, to be better than any other type of cooktop heat source. And because we've had no problems with the old one, when we decided to remodel our kitchen we kept it, it was that good and held up great.  Since the beginning I have been using cast iron pans -large and small- and other heavy gauge pots and pans. It held up great with no scratches or cracks whatsoever.\nHowever, after re-installing the original in the new granite top without any problems, a drill fell on it while tightening up the vent hood above. This caused a crack about three inches from the corner. As I said I would not replace our favorite appliance with anything else, so we ordered from Amazon this same GE model and got it within four days.\nThere are some differences between the older and the newer model however.\n* The newer model has a front and back stainless steel edge covering the glass, where the older model had a handsome curved glass front.\n* The newer model has a smaller diameter cable going to the junction box, but the wiring is still the same gauge within it.\n* The original baffle plate that screws underneath had a 1 inch rubber extension flap on each side, whereas the new one although it is the same  length with the old one has no rubber flaps. The two new small baffle screws were course-threaded (nit picking) where the old type were galvanized machine screws that would not easily strip the holes in the housing. I kept the older baffle plate because the new one was bent inside the box when it was delivered by UPS. There was not much protection for the baffle as it had no styrofoam around it and it was right up against the cardboard side. Amazon has to communicate with the shipping companies to be more cautious with some of these delicate electronic appliances.\n* One important difference was that the new model had the improvement I always was hoping for in my old cooktop and that was that the burner glass top areas are now more defined. In the past I had a little difficulty sometimes in keeping the pots/pans on center.\n*There was one disappointing difference with the new model and that is the increments on the controls no longer have the .5 (half) increment.\nThe older model would go from L- 1 - 1.5- 2- 2.5- 3- 3.5 etc, the new one goes from  L-1-2-3-4..... .\nWe did find the half increments useful in the past.\n* Finally, the new model has an ethernet port (RJ45) underneath. I am not sure what purpose is serves, but I sure wish that it could be used to re-program the computer to re-introduce the half increments.\nOverall We are looking forward to enjoy this GE Profile model for years to come as we did the old one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4104, "id": 550756, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 527, "len_tokens": 638, "text": "2nd update: Updating my review again.  The local Fisher Paykel authorized service technician finally did get back in touch and looked at the dishwasher.  Apparently if you put something in the dishwasher which is \"too big\" water can slosh over and activate the flood detector.  I don't recall ever putting anything really large in the dishwasher, but it's fairly simple to open the unit up and dry it out once someone shows you how to do it.  The other comments still apply.  This dishwasher is not very adjustable and best suited for people whom mostly use traditional plates.  Larger soup bowls and bowl-like plates don't fit very well, so I end up washing 40% of every pile of dishes by hand.\n\nUpdate:  The dishwasher failed 5 months after the warranty ran out.  I get an F1 error, which is some kind of problem with the flood detection system.  There's no visible water, so the sensor must have failed. There's only one authorized repair center in town, and they seem to be the opposite of the Maytag repairman: so busy they can't be bothered to return calls.  Looks like I'm out a lot of money and now have to buy a new dishwasher; hence updating the review and reducing the number of starts from 2 to 1.\n\nI spent an awful lot of time researching dishwashers and ended up selecting this one, reasoning that we didn't run our previous dishwasher very frequently because we rarely had enough dishes to fill it up, so I would just wash them by hand.  The reality is that it's so awkward to put stuff in this dishwasher that I end up using both drawers to wash what would have previously been a \"half\" load.  This might be a good choice for someone who uses plates, silverware, and cups; but we frequently use bowls instead of plates and the kids always have several plastic containers in their lunches, and none of this stuff (bowls and plastic containers) fits into the dishwasher very well.  I end up washing more than half the dishes by hand anyway.  Second, the old dishwasher had a heated dry option which would sometimes melt plastic objects that got tossed around in the wash, true; but at least it would dry the dishes.  Even if I leave the finished dishes sitting in this dishwasher overnight more than half the stuff is still soaking wet in the morning, so has to be hand dried using a towel.  The bottom line is that using this dishwasher is more work than just washing the dishes by hand and using an ordinary dishwasher as a drying rack.  Finally, the silverware container is very poorly designed.  It kind of flops around in the dishwasher, and it's hard to fit the larger silverware through the little slots on the top piece, which (annoyingly) keeps popping off.\n\nEdit: the set of things that can be washed in this dishwasher keeps shrinking.  I'm noticing that containers and deeper bowls are left with streaks of detergent and in some cases aren't getting clean at all.  Given the price, this is easily the worst purchase I've made in a while.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4105, "id": 553350, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 468, "len_tokens": 609, "text": "We purchased a brand new Kitchenaid dishwasher in a brand new home. The dishwasher never worked, we had 3 service calls, they replaced motor and the power board, and now they won't replace the unit. Here's how it played out...\n\nWe closed on a brand new house early January 2018 with all new Kitchenaid appliances (Refrigerator, Range, Range Hood, Microwave, Dishwasher). This dishwasher never worked, it would not circulate or dissolve the soap, nor would it dry at all (it is supposed to have heated dry, and yes, we filled the Rinse Aid with their suggested brand before ever running it). Whirlpool/Kitchenaid sent a service tech three separate times to work on it. The motor was replaced, and the power board was replaced, but it still doesn't circulate or dissolve the soap, nor does it dry at all, same exact issues as stated above (see the attached photos for proof).\n\nAfter one month of going through this process, we spoke with customer service and requested a replacement. Then had to wait another 2-3 business days for someone to hopefully approve the replacement. Robin (refused to give her last name because she obviously knew they were in the wrong) from Whirlpool/Kitchenaid finally got back to us and determined that they would NOT replace the dishwasher. At this point, we have NEVER been able to use this dishwasher. We also found out through this painful process that this particular model has been discontinued, and Whirlpool/Kitchenaid also has a \"service flash\" on this unit (something related to a defect with the upper rack system), which was told by their direct tech line to the onsite service tech.\n\nThis unit, ours in particular, is obviously a \"lemon\" and needs to be replaced. We are shocked and distraught that Whirlpool/Kitchenaid would not back their own product, especially with the \"Kitchenaid\" brand which is supposed to be their higher end brand. It is appalling how this company operates and conducts business, and how they've treated us as true Kitchenaid customers. Please keep in mind that this is a brand new house with all brand new appliances, and the builder wanted to install FRIDGEDAIRE PROFESSIONAL SERIES appliances, but we specifically requested and paid for KITCHENAID, which is turning out to be the biggest mistake we could have made.\n\nAll we wanted was a working dishwasher, which we never got, now we have to go out and purchase ANOTHER one on our own, because Whirlpool/Kitchenaid will not back their own products, which is a total disgrace. We cannot understand for the life of us how ANY company could leave their customer with a brand new non-functioning dishwasher!!!\n\nBASED ON OUR PERSONAL EXPERIENCE WITH THEIR CUSTOMER SERVICE (OR BLATANT LACK THEREOF), WE CANNOT RECOMMEND ANY KITCHENAID OR WHIRLPOOL PRODUCTS TO ANYONE FOR ANY REASON.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4106, "id": 559539, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 503, "len_tokens": 621, "text": "I was renovating my kitchen and needed a new \"island\" range hood.  The previous vent hood that I had was only good from one side.  I saw this one and it looked perfect.  Rest assured that what you see is what you get - only it looks even better in my kitchen (see picture).\nSadly, I cannot give you many installation tips, because I had an expert installer put it in for me, who was an expert in all of the \"trades\", but I did watch and help a little.  The end result was more beautiful than I imagined. He did mention that the installation manual was vague, the picture on front didn't even match my model, and I think the instructions say to mount it to the sheetrock - which we didn't think was nearly sturdy enough.  It's a heavy, steel piece, so we came up with a new plan.  He built a wood box frame, with the thickness of three 2\"x4\"'s, and secured that in my attic, and attached my new range hood to it.  I could practically swing from it, now (but don't try that at home).  We also used almost all of our own screws - with the renovation going on, I had plenty of additional hardware and tools on hand.\nBecause my ceiling was lower (8ft) in the kitchen, our unit didn't need such a long \"neck\" - but the 2 steel rectangular sleeves that come with it are meant to be \"nested\", so we had to cut both pieces almost in half but, because my installer was an expert, he made it look great - as you can see by the picture!\nIf you must have something blocking your newly opened view (we tore down a wall, between the kitchen and living room), then it should be this beauty!\nIt has 4 well-placed lights, one on each corner, for \"full food disclosure\" - it really lights up my stove top!.  As a personal preference, I've already replaced my little lights with the LED white light version of the bulbs, because I like more white light and less yellow light - purely my choice - but I wanted people to know that replacement bulbs are easy to find.  I bought them right off the shelf at my local hardware store, in the specialty lighting area.\nAll 4 speed settings of the fan work great and, of course, the higher the setting, the noisier the fan - but the more vacuum power you'll get, for getting rid of the smoke (not that I ever burn anything)(maybe once or twice) (a month).  The lower speeds are pretty quiet compared to my old \"hoody\".\nMy old vent hood had knobs and it had 3 speeds, 1). noisy, 2). super noisy, 3). noisiest...I SAID NOISIEST!\nThis one is a touchscreen and I really like it.  It looks super clean and modern and it is everything I expected and more.  I would highly recommend this!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4107, "id": 560715, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 467, "len_tokens": 605, "text": "Bought a FP set in 2000 when they were fairly new because of the design of the drive unit alone. I knew the design of the drive unit was superior to other washer designs that relied on standard horizontal output motors, gears, transmissions, clutches, etc. I was tired of tearing into these components for repeated and expected frequent replacement and repair. Not to mention several water pumps. Had never heard of FP before.\n\nReplaced the motherboard on Washer at yr 6. Fix was plug and play simple replacement (+/- $60). No other problems. Family of 6. Lots of laundry. Ex-wife kept them in 2014. LOVED the direct drive (electro-magnetic?) simplicity, durability, and quietness -very quiet. Also like the simple push button settings vs. a loud, clinky dial system like most other washers typically use (points & condenser style contact points). Little if any improvements to washers motor, clutch, transmission, the motherboard/dial controls, or the damaging agitation means of cleaning in several decades, until the FP system was developed. Very different and much simpler in many design features.\n\nUsed very little electricity & water (approx $13/ yr, or $1.00/ month. I'd call that \"High Efficiency\". Something to do w/the direct drive, magnetic push/pull motor?). Spin dry excellent. Cleaned better then all other washers previously owned, mostly Maytag, which had lots of repairs (clever advertising though). I repaired them myself.\n\nMost liked was how well it CLEANED and very few moving parts. Cleans by Cycling/pulling water and detergent THROUGH clothes constantly (center towards outside drum) instead of beating them harshly with agitator I.E.: easy on fabric. Gas dryer was flawless. Quick dry times also.\n\nIn the market for a new set and I wouldn't consider anything BUT a FP. I'm going to go w/the basic EcoSmart (same model/features as the first set) so that I can use \"normal\" detergent and is $100 less then the AquaSmart which will ONLY run on High Efficiency detergent. Only other advantage to the AquaSmart that I can find is auto bleach & fabric softener. Which I can add manually w/the EcoSmart when/if I want. Why pay $100 more and not be able to use common, readily available, less expensive detergent? Also, the AquaSmart can be run in EcoSmart mode, BUT still requires HE detergent at all times. The FP used about 1/2 as much detergent as was needed in the previous washers. Took some getting used to.\n\nAnother small, but user friendly feature is being able to lift the lid and see what's going on and have the washer keep running its cycle. All previous washers/other brands would stop running when the lid was raised. The FP keeps running, but will lock the lid closed when spin drying. Friendly when ok to do so, locked when safety is needed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4108, "id": 560779, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 543, "len_tokens": 666, "text": "Motor maybe great.... Time will tell.  But read the following and tell me what you think.\nIn mid April, I bought the Minn Kota Riptide Ulterra 80/IP w/i-Pilot 24V-80lb-54\" via AMAZON from Offshore Wake for nearly $200 more than what they currently are advertising them for (which is $1999.99).  The motor arrived a few days later and I had it professionally installed on a MinnKota RTA 17 Riptide Composite Quick Release Bracket with a special 24 volt plug/receptacle costing $50 (as recommended)\nFrom the very start, this motor gave us problems in that it would not fully stow away onto the holding bracket. After several tries, calling Minn Kota head quarters, taking the motor apart per their instructions, and spending hours on the phone, nothing resolved the problem.  Finally the motor decided not to work at all (did not deploy or stow) and would only display a red flashing status light.\n\nPer Minn Kotas request, I took the motor to a registered dealer in Deland (hour drive).  He had it for a few days talking to Minn Kota head quarters, but was also unsuccessful.  By now Offshore Wake started to get involved after the poor review I gave and requested return of my money.  Otherwise I wanted the motor replaced immediately. Minn Kota refused to send a new motor until they had the broken one in hand. So the dealer in Deland boxed it up for me with Quick Release Bracket and special plug still attached.  We sent it back along with a note that I wanted a new motor with the current Quick Release Bracket and special plug transferred to this new motor.  Test it out to be sure nothing is wrong.\nNeedless to say, the new motor came, but neither the Quick Release Bracket nor special plug was attached.  The Quick Release Bracket came in a separate box, but still no plug.  So once again I had to take it down to a professional dealer and have a the Quick Release Bracket and new plug installed (at a cost of $100).\nMinn Kota needs to know that this chain of events which cost me three weeks of BS time instead of fishing, is unsatisfactory.  I am one disappointed customer.\n\nOne month after I originally bought this motor I finally have a motor that works. However, she still has not been water tested as will do that tomorrow.  It cost me an additional $100 to get new motor professionally installed which included another special plug.  Add to that, the extra $200 I paid for this item and inconvenience I went through, some type of compensation should be awarded to me.\nWhats only fair to me is that Minn Kota offers me a Plus 2 Extended Warranty for free.\nThis is a $290 value that will provide the compensation I deserve at no cost to Minn Kota if their motors work as well as they say they do.\nWhy should I pay for this with all the inconvenience and additional cost I went through\n\nI deserve a four year guarantee\n\nI am requesting Minn Kota and/or Offshore Wake to please respond to this request at their earliest convenience.  Please provide me someone to contact to get this compensation resolved.\nThanks", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4109, "id": 560788, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 521, "len_tokens": 624, "text": "I first saw these units at my local Costco and was impressed with how large they were.  I am not a fan of front-loaders, but most top loading machines are pretty boring, so I decided to just hang on to my 15+ year old Magtag washer/dryer which worked fine.  After seeing how nice these LG units looked in person, I figured it was finally time to upgrade.\n\nAfter shopping around, I found the best deal (by far) here on Amazon.  Including tax (but with free shipping) I paid roughly $300 less than Costco was charging for the same unit.  Yes, I was a little nervous buying something like this online, but hey, it's Amazon, right?\n\nThese units were shipped via freight company (I think it was Old Dominion).  If you have not dealt with this situation before, you need to be aware -- the freight company will call you to schedule delivery, but this is not explained at the time you place your order.  So, word to the wise -- keep your eyes peeled for voicemails from the freight company, and you may need to call them to confirm the delivery date/time.\n\nAside from shipping, I had one small issue with my dryer -- after installing it, the display flicked on and off, and some of the digits in the time readout were not showing.  I called LG and they arranged to have a service tech come to the house a few days later, but the problem eventually fixed itself so I cancelled the service call and so far, the dryer seems to be working correctly.\n\nAs for the washer, my wife absolutely loves it....but be prepared -- this high efficiency unit does not function like the older top-loading units.  My old top loader would fill up with water, then slosh everything around for a while, and then spin, drain, and repeat for the rinse cycle.\n\nThe LG high efficiency washer does not fill completely with water.  Instead, it measures the weight of the clothes at the start of the cycle (it does this by spinning the basket back and forth several times).  Once it knows how much the clothes weigh, it will run through a wash cycle that involves partially filling the tub with water, and then spraying additional water onto the clothes as it spins them back and forth.  Honestly, if you watch this it doesn't look like the clothes are getting cleaned, but the end results have been extremely good so far.\n\nI still have my fingers crossed for these units to be as durable and long-lasting at the old Maytag pair they replaced, but at least for now we're very happy with them.\n\nP.S.  One other point to consider -- one reason we bought these was due to their huge capacity.  However, this is a double-edged sword.  Yes, you can run huge loads of laundry in one shot, so that's helpful, but it also means that when the clothes are done drying, you will have a HUGE pile of stuff to fold and put away.  Not really a negative thing, but just something to consider.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4110, "id": 561457, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 541, "len_tokens": 651, "text": "I was a little hesitant about this, as I wasn't sure if the convenience was worth the cost.  After having it up and running over the last month, I'm pleasantly surprised.  The key is understanding the cycles and what works best for the different material types.  It was fairly easy to install...the hardest part was just getting it level because the ground where I have it is slightly sloped.  Once that was done, though, it's been a piece of cake.\n\nThe first thing that surprised me was the water requirement.  I had expected that distilled water would be a requirement like other appliances.  Upon reading through the instructions, though, it specifically requires clean tap water and NOT distilled water to function properly.  This is especially nice because it always seems when you need something the most, you're out of distilled water (I have a few other devices that need it).  I like that I'll never be in a position to have to go to the store before I can use it.\n\nNext, the ease of use.  The touch buttons on the front of the door are easy to use for sure and take very little training.  Loading clothes or blankets in the Styler is also super easy.  Anyone expecting a complicated device here will be pleased to find that it's really pretty simple.  Again, the key is just understanding up front which cycles / modes are appropriate for different material types, but the documentation included with the unit make it very easy to understand.\n\nFinally, appearance.  This unit is quite attractive for sure.  Sleek, modern and dare I say, even a bit sexy for an appliance.  While I didn't have room in my smaller master closet or laundry room, I would not hesitate putting it in either one if I could.  If you're building or remodeling and are interested in something like this, I would absolutely recommend adding it to the plan.  It not only adds an element of sophistication in terms of pure appearance, but it adds a massive level of convenience.\n\nTo sum up, I'll say that we have greatly enjoyed the ability to quickly refresh items like wool suits (including the pants crease feature), blankets and even my kids stuffed animals.  They come out smelling fresh and clean, and my sport coats / suit pants feel like they've just been dry cleaned.  I get much more wear out of them in between full on cleaning now, which will help cost justify the unit in time, too.  Also, if you use non-iron dress shirts, this thing works very well with them.  I never need to take these shirts to the cleaners at all anymore, which I love.  I simply wash them, dry them, and hang them in my closet.  Then when I need to wear them, I throw them in the Styler for 30 minutes and they're good to go for my day.\n\nWe really enjoy having this and recommend it for anyone looking for that added layer of convenience and sophistication to their laundry capabilities at home.  The cost of the unit is higher, so I wouldn't say that it's a necessity for everyone, but if you're willing to foot the bill, you'll be glad you did.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4111, "id": 561511, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 508, "len_tokens": 616, "text": "This drink refrigerator is amazing! It is the only fridge under $1000 that I have seen that will cool to 34F, and it actually does. I originally bought a similar fridge that was advertised to cool to 38F and cost $200 less. Not only did the fridge arrive poorly packaged, but it was superficially damaged.  Furthermore, it never registered a reading lower than 41F from my digital thermometer.  In the end I returned it and bought the Avallon.\n\nFrom the moment it arrived my experience was different. It arrived in a well-packaged box via freight delivery on a pallet, with a pallet \"do not stack\" cone. The box design is ingenious, as the bottom is a separate piece of cardboard and easily separates from the top. That brings me to its footprint: its quite big to be designed for under-counter installation. I had measured the intended space for the fridge and I had exactly 34.5 inches. NOTE: you will need every bit of that space and possibly more. I had to take the feet off, put on some furniture pads to barely avoid metal scraping the floor, and I still had to remove the vinyl flooring to get this behemoth to fit under that counter. I would not recommend buying this fridge if you are set on positioning the fridge under the counter and don't ABSOLUTELY have 34.5 inches to work with. Also, I don't know who has the extra 2-3 inches of depth to provide the ventilation that is recommended in the instruction manual, but I don't so it's recessed as much as possible.\n\nI have also read some people feel that the compressor is loud. Maybe because my fridge is such a tight fit against a concrete wall that I do not hear it, but this thing is quiet to my sensitive hearing. Another great feature is the lighting. The lights are placed on every level of the unit and really illuminate the space in an unobstructed way, which I know sounds inconsequential, but makes it look very luxurious. As I mentioned, this fridge really cools as advertised. Maybe even too well!  I had to bump up the thermostat to 36F because I have registered a temperature as low as 28-30F when the compressor kicks on (see picture).\n\nI did buy the extended warranty offered from Amazon because stainless steel drink fridges are expensive as a lot, and there always seems to be a lemon out there. That said, Avallon has a one-year factory warranty AND will repair/replace your compressor for five years after the date of purchase. I haven't dealt personally with their customer service department, and I hope I don't have to, but it seems like the company stands by their product. My only complaint is that I have had my eye on it for 8 months and it recently went up in price from $719 to $899.\n\nIn summary, if cold drinks are important to you, don't be fooled by the lower prices of comparable models. This one is the real deal!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4112, "id": 563969, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 563, "len_tokens": 642, "text": "Dear Mr Riddle,\n\nIt it with disappointment that I am writing you about my experience with my LG french door refrigerator. I purchased this refrigerator from Home Depot on 12/7/15. It was installed in my new kitchen in April 2016. I liked refrigerator and all of its features so I was upset when it started intermittently making a loud vibrating sound in July.  The sound was coming from the fan behind the filter. As the appliance is covered under the one year manufacturers warranty, I called LG customer service and was told to call a local appliance servicer called \"Reliable Appliance Service\" myself. The noise stopped by the next day and everything seemed to be working so I never called the service center.\n\nThen, sometime during the week of August 22nd the noise started again. Within the week the fan stopped working. All the food on the top of the fridge was warm and everything on the bottom froze. Additionally the ice and water dispenser stopped working and the letters \"E rF\" were displayed. I called customer support hoping they could tell me what was wrong. They again told me again to call Reliable Appliance Service. I called Reliable Appliance Service and they said that LG needs to schedule the repair or it will be treated as a cash ticket. I called customer support again and was told that they need to submit a request to their service locator team. Several days passed and I heard nothing. By this time all of my food was spoiled.\n\nOn Friday September 2nd I once again called customer support and was told that they still haven't found a servicer. They would prioritize my case with the service locator team and would return my call on Tuesday, September 6. I never heard back so I called customer support again on Thursday September 8th. I was told that they were still trying to find a servicer that would be willing to come to my house 40 miles from Anchorage, Alaska, and that there was nothing more that they could do.\n\nNeedless to say by this time I am angry and exhausted. My refrigerator has been broken for over two weeks and your company has conveniently absolved themselves of any duty to fix the problem. Thankfully, Home Depot is willing to pick up the refrigerator and give me a refund. They will be here on Saturday September 10. I will then buy a GE refrigerator.\n\nIn the mean time I am telling everyone I know to avoid LG products as the appliances are very unreliable and customer service is unwilling to help. I am sure that you have an interest in keeping your company reputation in good standing with potential customers and therefore I am hoping that by informing you of my experience you can assist your team to make a better product and improve customer service.\n\nAt the very least your company should have been willing to pick up the appliance from my home and take it into servicer. Instead I was offered no help what-so-ever. I have spent hours on the phone with absolutely no interest on your company's behalf of helping. If there is one thing that I can hope come of this is that no one who I know buys an LG appliance. This has been literally the worst customer service experience of my life.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4113, "id": 563996, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 529, "len_tokens": 636, "text": "This is the only product I wanted in my renovated modern kitchen, and I got it. It is beautiful, European style, tall and has a lot of space actually. But not all gold what is shinning:\nMajor issues:\n1. out of the box the the unit is very nice, and relatively quiet, but, The Crisper Box (middle sections drawer) is sitting on top of the freezer, therefore everything you put in it, is just comes out frozen in a day, so it is basically useless for its purpose (vegetables, fruits, citruses), the only good purpose is to semi-freeze meat or should I say defrost it a bit. I had to actually insulate it with Styrofoam to not freeze the contents of this drawer.\n2. after just 1 year, the door handle just broke off completely, amazing most important part of this unit, which need to withstand the most just broke off. After looking at it, I think it was made with the mix of plastic (cheap plastic) and some sort of aluminium. But my question is how is this thing getting tested, with minimal use it just falls off.\nAfter some hassle with the manufacturer (since it was past the 1 year warranty, yes guys ONLY 1 year warranty) they were understandable that this is not normal to have handles fall off their units and sent me a replacement actually really fast, I put it back in myself since it is not that  complicated, so we while I was waiting I moved the handle from the freezer to the main unit, right? why do we need 2 handles))\n3. This is the most annoying:  After 2 month from the handle incident, the alarm on the door started to just randomly sound, (it usually buzzes when you forget to close the door, actually very nice feature) but now it started to sound when the door is closed for 10-20 seconds and all temperatures started to reset and after 20 sec it was quite. After another week it started to sound 30 seconds, and didn't stop until we reopened the door couple of times.\n(It is still in this condition) I understand electronics in our life could go wrong sometimes, but my main beef is with the manufacturer, not retailer) after some exchanges, they suggested:\n\n\"If you feel we are not the company you wish to perform business with, we understand & hope you find another brand that does make you happy.\"\n\nThe problem with this is that I already DONE business with them buy buying this faulty appliance, and this is regular customer service....so my fellow buyers, if you like this unit, like I still do, and want to spend $200-$300 per visit to fix a sensor (or otherwise you will be listening to 1 minute alarms on this frig) or other things which might fall of after 1 year warranty, go ahead and do business with this company!\n\nOr you can get something reliable, not as nice I guess, it is your choice, I just want to warn you guys that after you do business with Summit, they don't want to honor this relationship like it supposed to be.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4114, "id": 564717, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 506, "len_tokens": 608, "text": "I was initially amazed at the low price for these Dista water filters but unfortunately now I know why when I tried to actually use the product.\n1. Steps to replacing an overpriced outrageously expensive LG OEM 5231JA2006B water filter:  rotate the cartridge counter clockwise to click out of place slightly.  As you pull out the OEM cartridge, there will be less than 3 ounces of water slightly dribbling through the water escape hole underneath and towards the middle of the water filter container housing which is easily captured by a small plate with a raised edge.  When you pull out the LG OEM cartridge completely from the refrigerator, there is ZERO water spillage as you pull out the unit, and replace with new OEM filter.  Amount of water spillage clean-up inside the frig, on the front of the frig, and on the floor is ZERO ounces to remove old LG OEM cartridge and install new LG OEM filter.\n2. Replacing a poor quality counterfeit Dista water filter:  rotate the cartridge counter clockwise to click out of place slightly.  Instantaneously there is water GUSHING out of 3 locations simultaneously:  at the back of the water filter container housing close to the back of the frig of about 8-16 ounces pouring down the inside wall of the frig, while simultaneously at least 6-10 ounces gushes through the hole underneath and towards the middle of the water filter container completely overflowing the same exact plate that had earlier easily contained less than 3 ounces released by the LG OEM filter, and also simultaneously water gushing out the front of the Dista water filter onto the front of the refrigerator and spilling onto the floor.  Then as you pull out the Dista water filter to remove it, excess water that had collected on the bottom of the water filter container housing spills onto the front of the frig and on the floor, which never occurred with the LG OEM filter.  Copious amount of water spillage EVERYWHERE inside the frig, on the front of the frig, and on the floor with the poor quality counterfeit Dista water filter.\nI thought maybe there might have been air build up the first time I removed the OEM filter and installed the Dista filter causing the Dista filter to release an unusually unacceptable amount of water, so I repeated all steps again by reinstalling the LG OEM filter, removing the LG OEM filter, installing the Dista filter, then removing the Dista filter.  Same exact results after experiment repeated so am definitely returning this for a refund and now its back to searching for a cheaper solution to the outrageously overpriced LG OEM water filters selling for $50 each.\nThere is no way I want to wait to see if the Dista water filter actually performs its job adequately after such poor quality capability for such a simple process as removing and replacing a water filter.  Too bad we are not allowed to leave a customer review with ZERO stars or even 1/2 star.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4115, "id": 565059, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 539, "len_tokens": 663, "text": "I have a 7 year old Samsung 33\" bottom freezer, french door refrigerator, model Samsung RF217ACPN. This gist of this post is to tell you that you need to swap out several other parts if you are experiencing ice build up in the back of your Samsung Refrigerator possibly along with water in or under the lower drawers. As I understand it, nearly all the Samsung refrigerators built in the last decade use the same cooling and defrost mechanism. Some models do not have a manual defrost mode, and you will need to unplug the refrigerator to actually melt the ice build up.\n\nAbout a year ago, the lower crisper drawers began to fill with water. This indicated a drain freezing problem which necessitates the thawing and replacement of an improved drain heater extension part \"SAMSUNG CLIP DRAIN EVAPORATOR REFOEM Original Part: DA61-06796A (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KFG9NO)\" This has a longer drain extension that takes heat from the heating element and extends it into the drain hole to prevent icing or improve defrosting. Samsung realized their original clip was a bit too short and released this improved retrofit.\n\nI noticed that the rear of the refrigerator also began to show ice from some of the holes. Normally a 48 hour defrost takes care of it but eventually it would build up to the point that the spinning interior fan starts to hit it. This icing indicates a problem with your defrost system. That's what this heater and bimetal thermostat is to replace.  Either the resistance of the thermostat is bad or the heating element isn't heating up properly anymore, but this OEM replacement should fix it for at least a few years.  A tip for installation is to loop the connector and thermostat wiring BEHIND the entire cooling coils to make the wires reach the connector easier with less stretching.\n\nAnother item to replace at the same time while you are back there is the \"Samsung DA32-00006S Refrigerator Defrost Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGPERM)\" is the second of two thermostat sensors for the defrost system. The other yellow cord sensor senses the low temperature frost conditions on the coils. You should move the yellow defrost sensor from the tube on the right to the more central tube on the left. This helps with sensing the ice that grows from the middle outwards. You should replace BOTH defrost sensors as a pair to ensure that you don't revisit the problem in a month.\n\nOne last tip is for you to extend the front floor riser pegs and lift the front wheels off the ground. This will ensure that the defrost liquid drains properly towards the rear. Not all kitchen floors are level and if it is slanted forward even a little bit, the water can leak out the front vents and frost over after the defrost cycle.\n\nSo far, I have been frost free and the crisper drawers are dry for months. Don't just replace this one part, you should try to replace a few parts in total. All the components are relatively inexpensive. Good luck in fixing your Samsung refrigerator. I wanted to share this so that others will not have to go through the trouble of addressing this issue piece by piece.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4116, "id": 566492, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 545, "len_tokens": 682, "text": "Fits well, have a narrow gap between stove and counter on both sides, < 1/2 inch and these fit well.\n\nPros:\n- Does what is should, keeps the crumbs out.  I cleaned the sides/bottom of my oven before installing these and... yuck, might be crumbs to us but a feast to La Cucaracha!  You know the usual stuff, like that milk or oatmeal that boiled over and ran down the side, grease from frying and splattering, grains of rice, etc. (even though we do the usual Spring cleaning).\n- Easy to cut to fit, appears some negative reviews were due to size but appears that was before they had 21 and 24\" options.  My stove is 21 and fits nice, in fact had to cut about 1/4 end off the end of each and the width is perfect.  I only had to adjust the length so scissors worked fine, but if I had to narrow/cut it lengthwise would use a razor and straight edge of some kind.\n- Easy to clean, wipes off with soap/water as the product description states, can't say for long term as only being using a couple weeks.\n- Heat \"resistant\" - noting I'm careful not to set pans on top of the cover, so nothing has melted yet (but I'm not going to test it).  Think this is same silicon as the baking mats, so only takes heat up to a point (obviously easier to control heat in oven than on a stovetop), the cover \"sticks\" nice so far so haven't had any issues getting too close to a burner.\n- Forms a pretty good \"seal\" on both the stove and counter sides, better on the counter side because the counter does not had a lip like the stove, but the cover sits on top of the stovetop lip ok (the divider on the underside of the cove is off center, which is perfect as I need it narrower on the stove side so it's not too close to the burner).\n\nCons:\n- It's a very matte black.  Wish it were more \"glossy\" (like the underside) to match my glossy black stove, but a minor complaint, probably hard to do considering the material.\n- It was shipped a little bent (probably Amazon), but still straightened out ok after a day or two because it is pliable, if it had been folder in hald hard to say.\n- I would not recommend with a gas stove (common sense says that if this handles <450 degrees F (446 per the description) an open flame that's too close or even a really hot pan is a bad idea (natural gas/methane burns at 3,542,  almost 8 times what the silicon will tolerate.\n\nOverall it's the best solution available to the impossible-to-clean-up mess problem, as others have noted the metal options available out there all suck and silicon is really the only option that takes (some) heat and is also pliable/soft enough to seal.  Also appears from other posts the customer service is really good, and they do follow up after your purchase and troll the reviews to make sure you're happy  (I would have posted a good review anyways).  Bottom line I would buy again and recommend to others.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4117, "id": 566807, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 531, "len_tokens": 673, "text": "I purchased this set and installed if a few days ago.  For some reason, the dryer is not heating up, so it is taking hours (and several runs) to dry the clothes.  There are a bunch of diagnostics that the web site suggests you run when you're experiencing this issue.  I have run all of them.  The result of all this diagnostic work?  The dryer thinks there is a blockage at the air vent and won't heat up because of this.  To be sure that this wasn't the case, I just disconnected the dryer hose from the back and let it pour air into my laundry room.  Even when it is not connected to anything, the diagnostics still tell the dryer that there is a blockage.\n\nSO... I tried to get someone to come repair the dryer by submitting a request online.  Filled out all of the information (model #, serial #, description of problem, blah blah...)  Then couldn't hit the final 'submit' button.  I need to call customer service.\n\nSO... I called customer service.  After over an HOUR on hold (Incidentally, I got to hear LG's horrendous hold music the entire time along with their recorded voice saying \"Thank you for your patience.  We recognize your time is valuable and we're working hard to personally respond to your call as soon as we can\" - OVER 75 times.  (I just quit counting...)\n\nTHEN... they picked up.  (Hallelujah!)  The questions he was asking me were so inane that I wondered if I wasn't being punked.  (\"Let's try running the dryer 4 feet from the wall, instead of 3 feet from the wall to be sure nothing is blocking the air from coming out of the dryer.  Huh?\")\n\nThe culmination:\nLG: \"Well, the diagnostic code says the unit isn't getting enough power to heat, so there must be a problem with your outlet\"\nME: \"Uh... but there was another dryer plugged into the outlet the day before this was installed. It worked just fine.\"\nLG: \"You need to have an electrician come check the outlet before we send our technician to help you\"\nME: \"But this doesn't make any sense.  The outlet was working yesterday.\"\nLG:  ... call disconnected.\nLG: ... has my number, but no call back\n\nSO... I reached out to the chat function.  After taking forever to find my record and then seeing that the other call had gotten disconnected, they told me the only thing I could do was call the customer service line and wait on hold until 'one of their specialists' picks up.  They also told me the only way to talk to a supervisor was to ... you got it ... call the customer service line.\n\nSO... I'm sitting on hold again.  I know it has taken me 18 minutes to write this, because that's how long I've been on hold.\n\nI'll admit - writing one star reviews is a good way to pass the time when a company is treating you this way.  I think I'm feeling better now.  Then again, one of these dunderheads is likely going to answer the phone in another 45 minutes.  All bets are off when that happens.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4118, "id": 568008, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 477, "len_tokens": 687, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R2YKYDLEGVWDC7\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1ZPXqXdz-S.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91XfG8aBuyS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;Just don't. I bought this from a nationwide home improvement chain. The item was delivered and DEAD ON ARRIVAL. Waiting to be contacted for a repair. I won't hear from the repair company for 1 to 2 business days...then they will have to schedule a repair date. I'll be without a washer for a week. That's IF the repairman has the part required and doesn't have to order the part. And...that Samsung TV I was interested in? Not going to happen.\n*EDIT*\nI was called same day for service the following Tuesday. Tech showed up and couldn't fix the machine. He threw in the towel and told me to return it to the home improvement depot chain. I don't blame the tech at all, nice guy, worked with Samsung tech support and just couldn't fix it. Now I have to burn another vacation day and go to the laundromat after work tomorrow. Suggest you steer clear of this product. For me it's turned me away from this brand.\n*EDIT*\nI spent two hours on the phone being bounced back and forth between departments at Samsung and the depot home. The big box home improvement chain doesn't want to exchange. Samsung doesn't want to honor the warranty. I'm in the middle after having spent $1000 and wondering why I can't do laundry at home. I went to the laundromat today and paid $9.00 to use the Magnum Load machine. It was HUGE. I washed everything.\nI started over with Samsung. I asked if my machine is under warranty. (of course it is, I've had it for 5 days) I offered to read they warranty to them. They weren't interested. They are going to send another service company to try to fix it. As of now I don't know when they're coming. I figure I have two weeks worth of clean clothes...will become unhinged if this isn't fixed soon.\n*EDIT*\nYesterday I thought I'd see if I could find contact info for the CEO of Samsung. I found Mr. Lee's email address and sent a polite message. My jaw dropped when I received a reply on his behalf. We exchanged emails and I received a phone call that has me optimistic that this 157 pound space waster might actually wash my clothes soon but (there's always a 'but') after reading the Yelp reviews for the repair company they're sending I'm a bit concerned. Not well reviewed at all. Adding a screen cap of my Verizon call log that substantiates the two hours on the phone mentioned in the previous edit.\n*EDIT*\nDay 11 with a dead washing machine. Started looking at legal options and contacted the local TV news consumer watchdogs. Ugh. More gray hair. Thanks Samsung!\n*FINAL EDIT*\nWorking with Samsung to get a refund.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4119, "id": 570478, "interval": [600, 700], "len_words": 448, "len_tokens": 642, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R2KA6GJ6Y3YPNY\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D1Q0WSAKqqS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1ngR1hCyaS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;Never, ever, buy an Electrolux washer and dryer! My husband and I purchased an Electrolux washer (Model EFLS617SIW) and dryer (EFMG617SIW) in September of 2016. We have had nothing but problems with them. We first had them looked at in April, through a place recommended by Electrolux. The repairman ordered parts for the dryer (new board and switch) but did nothing for the washer. We continued to have problems with both machines and then found out the store where we purchased them could service Electrolux. After looking at the machines, the repairman made a few adjustments on the dryer and found that the washer also needed new parts! We went to the store and spoke with a manager. We were told to go ahead and have it fixed, and then we could take it to the next level. Well, we had the washer fixed, and its still not working right!\n\nThe dryer design is so poor. When drying, clothes come out over the lint trap. The dryer senses that the trap is full, and the machine stops and says clean lint. We understand the concept of saving energy, and that the dryer will stop before the set time if the clothes are dry, but the clothes aren't dry when this happens. Its very annoying to have it stop every few minutes and have to restart. Also, clothes don't dry evenly. For example, if I wash a load of towels, some of them will be dry and some still very damp. It doesnt matter if I do a large load or small, I have the same problem.\n\nThe washer still vibrates and is loud even after being fixed. When it spins, it sounds like its going to take off. It doesnt matter if its on low, medium or high spin. It all sounds the same. We again contacted the store manager. Apparently taking it to the next level means having them fixed yet again. We don't want to keep having them fixed! What happens when the warranty is up? Electrolux denied the claim that we need new machines. We don't want new Electrolux machines! We want our money back! Electrolux Customer Service is a joke. They just say they are sorry about the problems and understand our frustration. No they dont.\n\nWe are so disappointed in these machines. They aren't even a year old! Our old washer and dryer lasted about 16 years and never needed serviced. We consider these machines to be lemons. Were tired of dealing with this, and feel that no matter how many times they are fixed, they will never be right.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4120, "id": 17, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 528, "len_tokens": 711, "text": "Common sense and openmindedness are at the heart of Alan Gregerman's tome in praise of strangers. In clear and affable fashion, Gregerman guides his readers in an almost Socratic manner to embrace the insights and wisdom that are available to us once we look beyond the known.\n\nOddly -- or fortuitously -- enough, you and I are engaging in one of the practices he suggests in his book. One of the hallmarks of Amazon is its growing library of peer reviews and images. We don't know each other, and yet you paused in your consideration of this book to find out what earlier readers thought about it. And this is not a one-way street; there's every chance that you may use the \"comment\" function to add a question or other thought that would transform this from one person's observations and reflections into a conversation.\n\nMeantime, back to&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/The-Necessity-of-Strangers-The-Intriguing-Truth-About-Insight-Innovation-and-Success/dp/1118461304/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">The Necessity of Strangers: The Intriguing Truth About Insight, Innovation, and Success</a>. Gregerman begins with context, reviewing reasons for the common mistrust of strangers before illustrating how small even the largest personal network is likely to be. The nod to Socratic method begins with him asking readers to think about effective ways of gathering information, improving product, and thoroughly understanding our underlying mindset -- why we think the way we do, and how we can stretch ourselves beyond the status quo.\n\nAfter exploring context, which he calls framework, Gregerman asks readers to consider how to translate interacting with strangers from abstract to concrete: using these new relationships to spur innovation, collaboration, leadership, and customers, both existing and new (yet more \"strangers\"). Before setting us loose on a newly inviting world, Gregerman provides a succinct toolkit of strategies and techniques that we can begin using in everyday situations, as well as ways to spur our thinking and reflection.\n\nHe makes many thought-provoking points, and I believe they are best read in sequence. In fact, if you have an e-reader, you may want to buy the digital version so that you can highlight and annotate particularly salient thoughts.\n\nHowever, it is worth touching on the four guiding principles that are at the heart of this book. \"Humility--the belief that we don't know everything and that we can always be better at the things that matter most. Curiosity--our innate gift for being open to new ideas, new people, and new possibilities. Respect--the belief that everyone matters and that we learn and grow by engaging other people on their own terms. Purpose--our reason for being that guides our efforts to learn and grow.\"\n\nAlthough most of  Gregerman's examples and prescriptions deal with the workplace, they are readily applicable to life beyond the office, and even to one's own reflective practice. Indeed, one of the overarching principles is to seek out differences -- different outlooks, different areas of expertise, and even different lands -- and almost immediately to build human bridges of commonality. Particularly dear to my heart is his repeated statement that travel enriches the traveler and brings the world closer. In that vein, if you'd like, please do feel free to treat this review as the start of a conversation.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4121, "id": 2463, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 524, "len_tokens": 704, "text": "Update 2/12/14.  After 1 yr+ operation, I have to give the Heartland 21000 dryer vent closure a 5 star rating.  It performs without all the problems that the flapper-type vent closures typically have--getting stuck open by lint, or by rusting of the springs.  When the dryer is not operating, the Heartland closes tight & keeps out fumes from lawn movers, etc.  In 1+ yr of operation, it has never stuck open & never gotten clogged by lint.  The only problem encountered:  during an extreme cold & ice storm, the Heartland \"valve\" froze in place--apparently due to condensation buildup.  But it was easily loosened.\n\nAs to my original downgrading of the Heartland due to install problems:  I agree that install would have been a quick easy job IF the correct dryer vent pipe had been installed in our house.  However,  previous house owner had cemented-in the vent pipe coming to outside & it had no crimped end extending outside.  That's why we had such difficulty.  So if you're lucky enough to have a vent pipe outside end with crimping, it will be a \"5 star\" install for you.  If not, you'll have to adapt it like we had to.\n\nSuccess!  Finally got it installed and functioning but it took two of us 1.5 hrs.  Why?  (1) the product description and instructions say that it will fit on a 4\" diameter vent pipe, but it won't.  The pipe receptacle on the Heartland vent contraption is just barely 4\" in diameter; so a 4\" diameter aluminum vent pipe will NOT slide inside the Heartland receptacle for the pipe.  To get a 4\" diameter vent pipe to fit into the receptacle on the Heartland dryer vent, we cut 1\" slits in 3 places on the aluminum vent pipe opening.  These slits allowed us to squeeze the end of the vent pipe into a slightly narrower diameter than 4\", so it could be pressure fitted into the Heartland pipe receptacle.  (2) My house has lap siding, and the dryer vent exhaust hole in the side of the house wall was located such that the square base of the Heartland contraption partially overlapped the house brick and partially overlapped the siding.  So we had to adapt a piece of styrofoam to fit under the Heartland base so it would sit level.  (3) the instructions say that 6 screws are included with the kit, but there were NONE in the package anywhere.  So we had to use our own screws.\nNow that it's installed, it's working fine presently.  And I like its design better than the more common metal \"flap\" that opens when dryer exhaust air flows through the exhaust duct.  Over the yrs, I've had several different brands of that style, and after a while, the flap on all of them would not close tight when the dryer was off.  Because they wouldn't close tight when the dryer was off, they let lawn mower fumes, etc from outside get into the house.  This Heartland vent closure contraption looks like it will prevent that problem.  It's made out of thick plastic that looks like it may holdup well over time--we'll see.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4122, "id": 3159, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 592, "len_tokens": 742, "text": "(Editing/updating the below review I wrote nine months ago.  Machine still going strong. I use it differently now.  I found it's good enough to start all my louds on the light wash cycle. It cuts down alot on the time.  I add bleach to the whites on the light wash.  And I always add fabric softener to the rinse cycle.  A small percentage of times after the rinse cycle there may be a little water left at the bottom & the clothes down there didn't spin dry so well.  No prob, just restart spin cycle for a couple minutes.  It spin dries the clothes so well sometimes that there's even little dry spots.  Very happy w/little machine!  It is apartment ready & perfect for apartment dwellers!)\n\nWorks perfectly. Have had a small percentage of unbalanced loads that stopped during spin cycle...no big deal because who starts a load of wash or dry & just leaves it unattended anyway.  Need to be there when loads are finshed to take out so won't become wrinkled from sitting too long. A little suds & water came out the bottom the first time because I used too much soap. The next loads I only used 1/4 C or 4 tbsp laundry detergent & there was no leaking whatsoever. The machine really moves the clothes around & washes them great. Not only does it pulse thru the clothes but imitates agitator machines by reversing pulse directions swishing the clothes back and forth. #6 Wash only is a good 6.5 minute prewash. #1 Heavy soil which is 19 minutes long consisting of mainly soaking with a few agitations. #2 Normal wash which is a 15 minute agitation/pulsing wash, then the water is drained.  #3 light wash the water is filled up again & washed for 5 minutes. #4 rinse cycle where it is drained & filled up again & pulsed for 3.5 minutes. #5 spin cycle drained & spinned is 5 minutes. #4 & #5 have a safety feature (because it's spinning) the machine will/should stop when lid is lifted. The other cycles you can lift the lid & look inside if want.\nI found that if I lightly just drop the clothes in to the top it's the right amount. I add liquid fabric softner to the #4 rinse cycle.  Works like a charm! Only wish would've got it years ago! :) Can also check with your stores & on-line to see if they offer extended warranties.\nP.S. Machine does make clicking noises while operating. This is normal (wash & rinse cycles turning off & on)& no big deal. And it does play jingle bells to warn of the ending of the spin & wash only cycles. No big deal, it's usually sufficient to stop spin cycle then anyway.  If not just restart it at the beginning or middle of the cycle & let spin couple more minutes.) As soon as my warranty expires, I'm gonna cut that wire!:)  I kept my internal connector on from the attachable power swivel faucet (you can find by dish soaps in some stores) which made attaching even quicker/easier for me & works great! In regards to the drain pipe...I just lay it over the edge of the sink without hooking on anything.  It hovers a little above the sink bottom.  But the weight of the water brings it down when draining. The way the hose is made, it won't move out of the sink or spray all over.  I've done several loads now & couldn't be more pleased.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4123, "id": 3173, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 563, "len_tokens": 731, "text": "It was 'ignaugurated' at a party I hosted, and the 5 gal keg didn't last long!  (Of course, it was a good beer...locally brewed Pacific Coast Emerald Ale.)\n\nBe prepared:  After it's set up and you've had people over, you're going to be QUITE popular!  Expect comments like \"I'm going to be over at your place every afternoon.\"  Haier America should realize their best marketing ploy is satisfied customers.  I've had it two weeks and Haier may be selling 3 additional units soon.\n\nOK, so what about the product rating, especially in light of all the negative comments provided earlier?  Well, here's my take on it:\n\n- Set up was fairly simple, if you discount the fact that one part was missing (see below).\n- Quality seems to be adequate.  They use quality parts, e.g., the CO2 regulator and dispensing valve.\n- It's keeping my second (post party) keg perfectly chilled and pressurized.  (Since the first keg only lasted several hours, we can't base much judgement on that.)\n- It's wonderful to come home to a fresh, draft beer!\n- Finding a place to refill the CO2 canister can be difficult.  Most commercial places will only exchange (take your brand new canister and give you a used, filled canister).  I finally found a fire extinguisher service that does refills after making MANY calls.\n\nDoes this make it perfect?  Hardly.\n\nMy experience confirms that Haier America has poor customer service.  I purcased the unit a week in advance of a party I was hosting.  After getting it home and setting it up, I realized (according to the manual) that it was missing the washer that goes between the CO2 tank and the regulator.  I called Haier customer service the following morning and was shocked by how they treated me.  The basic tone of their response was \"tough luck.\"  I would have to follow their procedures which were:  1) fax or send via US mail my purchase receipt 2) Allow them two business days from their receipt of this to get back to me 3) After doing a 'confirmation' they would send me the washer within two weeks.\n\nI was irate and told them so!  I had purchased the unit specifically for my upcoming party and now would not be able to use it!  Their reponse:  \"These are our procedures.\"\n\nI did two things after this:\n1) I located the manufacturer of the CO2 regulator and contacted them about the possibility of getting a washer.  They informed me that the regulator was redesigned and did not need a washer.  Haier was supposed to include an update with their user manual (they didn't, and customer service obviously wasn't aware of this change).\n2) I located information on Haier America and faxed their CEO an scathing letter telling him what I thought about spending $500 for something and not being able to use it at the function I bought it for!  Lo and behold, the next day I received a call from their corporate offices saying they would be overnighting me the missing washer.  I explained I had learned it wasn't needed, but the woman calling me wasn't taking any chances.  She overnighted it to me anyway.  Moral of the story:  Make your voice heard when you recieve bad service.\n\nAnyway, my 'washerless' set up is now working fine and I'm loving the unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4124, "id": 9217, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 602, "len_tokens": 719, "text": "I've had this washer for about a month now and really have enjoyed not going to the laundromat!  I guess Haier made some adjustments to the confusing parts because my bottom metal plate was labeled \"This towards floor.\"  The holes also do not match up well but I found the best way to get the plate on properly is to put in the screws opposite on the diagonal, like when putting a tire on a car. And the lint trap has markings for up & down and can only fit the one way.  Took me about 15 min to set up.  It is noisy but usually only during the first spin after the wash for the rinse cycle.  It sounds like a regular washer's spin cycle but coming from such a small machine I think that's why it sounds horrendous. The most noise comes from the spinning in the rinse cycle, not the actual spin cycle which is a little odd.  It doesn't last more than 5 seconds.  The heavier the fabrics and larger the load the more noise it makes.  The high water level does throw some water (maybe a tablespoons worth) around but it comes from the top of the machine and doesn't get on internal components.  It also throws some water on the lower settings with heavier fabrics like towels and jeans.  The clothes do come out pretty wrinkled but I have found if you smooth out the fabric before hanging to dry this gets rid of most.  But ironing is not that difficult.  My landlord lives right behind me, we share the wall where I use this machine and I have not heard any complaints.  If I run my dishwasher at the same time I can't hear the washer at all.  My dishwasher is actually louder.  When I turn on the vent in the bathroom (where the machine is), it masks the sound of the washing cycle fairly well.  I use All brand HE detergent & drain the water into a 2 gallon plant watering can (for each drain) & use it to water my non-edible plants.  This type of All is biodegradable, safe for grey water use.  Not sure about other brands of HE detergent.  I use approximately 1/2 of a tablespoon's worth.  Clothes come out clean & rinsed well.  I also use borax powder and have had no trouble with it dissolving.  The Downy ball also works great for the rinse cycle but I recommend putting it in after the wash cycle.  It doesn't open during the wash but does slide along the tub & makes more noise.  Something that confused me at first was how the water worked.  There is no indication in the manual (which is less than useful, there's no point in even attempting to read it) if the machine beeped or anything when adding water.  You just hook up the hose & turn the faucet on.  Physics prevents it from overflowing or spraying or wasting.  The capacity on medium is about the same as an extra small load for a normal sized washer. I can usually fit about 3 days worth of laundry on a medium load. I usually spent about $10/week at the laundry so this should pay for itself in about 6 months after figuring the cost of electricity.  I have been able to wash 1 sheet at a time & was even able to wash a crocheted twin size blanket and a queen size fleece blanket. For the most part this is a wonderful machine for the price mostly because it is more convenient than going to the laundry.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4125, "id": 12050, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 598, "len_tokens": 720, "text": "We needed a small countertop dishwasher for our rec room, and after a few months of use, I can say this one is working out very well.\n\nIt shipped quickly, with no damage (the box was pretty tattered, but the packing material and the actual dishwasher were fine). It's large for a countertop device, certainly bigger than most microwaves. Be sure to measure your available space, especially clearance to any cabinets above your installation site.\n\nI hit some minor bumps getting it installed. The dishwasher hose nozzle is supposed to connect to your kitchen faucet using a threaded  quick-connect coupler included in the box. The coupler is supposed to screw onto the end of the faucet, but the faucet on that sink was a removeable spray handle on a long hose. There's no way for the included adapter to hook up to this, so I wound up having to install a new faucet (this isn't as bad as it sounds, as we were planning to replace the old one anyway).\n\nI brought the quick connect adapter to the hardware store with me to be sure it would fit the threads on the new faucet. Everything seemed okay in the store, but when I got home and installed the new faucet, I had some trouble. It turns out that the included adapter isn't particularly good quality, and didn't fit the faucet threads tightly enough to stay in place once the water pressure was actually turned on.\n\nI blew the hose nozzle off the end of the new faucet a couple of times until I finally went back to the hardware store and picked up an off-the-shelf adapter. Fortunately, it looks like Danby is using all standard-sized parts, so I was able to replace the flaky adapter with a new one that works well for only a couple of dollars.\n\nOnce I had the thing up and running, it was easy to load and use. The basket is built to hold four full place settings, but I find that with some creative jiggering I can get it to take in any odd collection of dishes, mugs, baby cups, storage containers and what have you. The basket insert is removeable, converting it to an all-glasses tray, which we found useful for party cleanup.\n\nThe machine really heats the water, so dishes come out clean. Even sticky stuff like melted cheese usually cleans right up. I've never had to use the heat-boost \"sanitize\" setting.\n\nIt uses a very small amount of dishwasher soap and rinse fluid, and you want to be careful NOT to add too much. I made the mistake of overfilling the soap holder (spilled a little too much, figured it would just rinse out, oops) and wound up flooding my countertop in suds. This has only happened once and there was no damage. Call it a learning experience.\n\nI saw in some of the other reviews that the timer knob occasionally won't advance when you start running the machine, and this did happen to me once as well after I'd had it for about two weeks. It hasn't recurred since then, either becuase I've been particularly careful to set the timer in the right start position, or the timer's \"wearing in.\"\n\nBeen using it steadily several times a week for a few months now, and after the initial hiccups, it's been working fine. No complaints, and now I'm looking for a Danby under-counter mini-refigerator to replace one in the same rec room. I'd recommend this dishwasher, provided you don't mind a little effort getting it dialed in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4126, "id": 14040, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 620, "len_tokens": 766, "text": "I bought this after blanching a bit at the $/gallon for some pitcher-style filters and learning about the limited range of substances filtered. I have a stainless restaurant counter and a wall-mount faucet, neither of which lends itself to undercounter filters.\n\nShipping was quick and the filter was packed will. The vendor was kind enough to use cornstarch packing peanuts, so I didn't have to deal with more unrecyclable packing material -- thanks to them for that! Two threaded adapters, with appropriate rubber washers, were included for a variety of faucets -- the unit happened to fit mine correctly without use of an adapter. The threaded mount spins independently of the plunger/aerator component, so you can tighten/untighten without having to spin the hose and filter around. It's knurled, so I got away with screwing it on finger tight using a rubber band to get more torque rather than using pliers (the knurled grip would also hide tool marks better had I not been able to get it tight enough without resorting to a tool). It's also good practice to use a strip of teflon tape when joining threaded plumbing parts, but the CuZn threaded mount had good tolerances -- no tape needed, and no feeling like it was going to cross-thread as I installed it.\n\nThe aerator on the faucet neck mount works nicely.\n\nA narrow hose runs from the faucet to the unit (OK, that's obvious). That means you've got loose hose either dangling from your faucet, or wrapped to keep it trained, zip tied, etc.  I don't think it's reasonable to ask the vendor to include clips to train the hose on the diversity of faucets this can be installed on, and I was totally satisfied with what was included. A buyer may wish to think about how discretely you want your hose run and what kind of clip or tie that will involve.\n\nThe filter is activated by pulling a plunger on the faucet neck mount. The plunger is spring-loaded and held in position by water pressure. Mine's fine, but note that if you have poor water pressure at your faucet you may need to keep the plunger pulled with one hand while filling (so, YMMV). This means that turning off the water \"deactivates\" the filter -- that's fine, too.\n\nI have municipal water that tastes pretty good, but filtering water makes a noticeable difference. The first couple gallons from this filter were gray with fine charcoal silt, but that's to be expected. No inconvenience there. Water from this filter tastes delicious -- noticeably better-tasting than from my Brita pitcher with a fresh filter. The difference extends to coffee -- the other major drink in my life. I like dark coffee that's at least a bit bitter, and I'm ever-so-slightly bummed that this water produces the taste that most sensible really like -- what we tend to call \"fuller-bodied, etc.\" This doesn't qualify as an issue with the device, and after all I can use unfiltered tap water to make my bitter coffee.\n\nWhy four stars? First, I want to emphasize that I'm 100% satisfied by the filtering and usability characteristics of this thing. While it's not top-heavy, it's not bottom-heavy, either. Putting it in a location to fill a tall vessel like a pitcher has tipped it over a couple times. Because the housing looks like three sections of PVC, I've figured I could glue a flange to the bottom to address this issue. After a week of pretty heavy use (it's summer and my family's thirsty...) I can't say I've been frustrated by this, but have thought \"if I were to improve one thing about this device it would be its balance.\"", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4127, "id": 17708, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 553, "len_tokens": 722, "text": "Our Western NY location requires a tight house for winter so odors linger without an exhaust fan. We now use the fan often because of the low mechanical and airflow noise. The kitchen heat build-up which previously effected the entire house heating (and hopefully cooling) is now negligible.\n\nThe improved direct task lighting was an unanticipated benefit. We use 2 - 4.8 watt A15 LED bulbs providing 300 lumens each (80 watt total incandescent) which will probably operate for less than $2.00 a year. Their use may reduce the lens replacement issues often noted for the Broan hoods. We don't use the one-setting nightlight but it is nice with dimmable bulbs.\n\nBroan rates the QT230SS as an intermediate value hood and I agree it is above all makers economy models quality after visiting the big box displays (all non-working) for a visual reference. It has a slight 60 cycle hum and fan balance vibration which seems to quit after several minutes, costing it the fifth star, that we don't find objectionable. The 3\" x 10\" damper provided is flimsy and I took precautions with it during installation. But overall we found the cost and benefits outweigh the minor issues.\n\nThe Broan replaced a seldom used 10\" Nutone which sounded like a jet starting. Ours is horizontally vented thru the wall with the Broan #639 Exterior Wall Cap. It needed a piece of 3-1/4 x 10\" x 3\" long duct to extend through our thicker wall. All duct connections were sealed with silicone caulk and a good foil tape to prevent air leaks and whistling noises. I sealed around the duct running inside the wall with insulation and fireblock spray foam to rigidize it. Where the duct terminated on the interior wall I installed foam weatherseal (3/8\" W. X 3/16\" Thk.) on the wall around the duct opening perimeter so it would provide an air seal against the back of the installed hood. I rigidized the provided 3\" x 10\" damper by installing it on the hood in a bed of silicone caulk and let it set. When set, I pulled the electrical feed through the knockout, then positioned the hood by inserting the attached damper into the wall duct opening while lifting it in place against the weatherseal and shelf above and fastened it with the provided screws. (5/4 x 12-1/2 x 30-1/2 laminated Doug Fir shelf)\n\nAfter connecting the power and running at full speed the attached damper opens 100% and the wall cap damper about 90%. The dampers occasionally flap on windy days but there is little backdraft compared to the old Nutone damper.\n\nFOR THE PURIST/ENGINEER and PROBABLY NOT APPROVED BY BROAN, I also placed the same wall weatherseal on the inside of the provided damper for the movable blade to rest against in its closed position to minimize backdraft/airleakage prior to installing it on the hood. The damper is fragile unattached and it was a delicate and tedious procedure to get 100% contact of the blade against the weatherstrip so be duly warned and verify the blade moves freely as you do so. I didn't do this to the exterior wall cap damper because the moisture from cooking vapor will condense and may freeze the blade shut in frigid weather, however the interior damper should be immune to that.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4128, "id": 29856, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 626, "len_tokens": 788, "text": "I've waited nearly a year to review this product so that I could better speak to it's durability over time.  I have to say, I was a bit wary of buying this because of some of the negative reviews, but I'm so glad I did!\n\nI live in New York City and have never had a dishwasher.  My kitchen sink was always chock full of last nights dinner plates, utensils, pans, etc.  I absolutely hate to hand wash dishes.  Every time I'd visit a friend who had a dishwasher, I'd salivate just thinking how great it would be to have one of my own.  So, I put the Danby 496W on my wish list last year and received it in mid-December.  To date, I've had NO problems whatsoever.  It runs like a dream, hasn't leaked, and cleans amazingly well.  I was so psyched to use my new dishwasher that I literally washed every single thing I owned the first day I had it.  Does this sound extreme, well, if you're someone who'd rather insert bamboo spikes under your fingernails than hand wash dishes, than you understand my elation.\n\nI do think you have to be careful when you use it so that you don't have some of the problems others have had:\n\nTIPS\n\n1. Clean out the food screen each time your run the dishwasher.\n2. Run the hot water first to get it really hot before connecting the dishwasher.\n3. As soon as your cycle is done, crack the door open so dishes can dry quickly.  This will also help save your window's seal and it will be less likely to leak!\n4. Clean out the dishwasher once per month.  I pour two cups of white vinegar into the bottom of my empty dishwasher (make sure to do this after water has filled the machine, just before the cycle starts) and then run it through the longest cycle.  It will help dissolve any buildup and will keep your dishwasher running well.\n5. Be careful how you load the dishwasher.  As another reviewer said, if you have a dishes or utensils in certain places, they will hang down too low and the spinner arm will hit them and not work properly.  This isn't that complicated, you figure out how to best load it by trial and error.  It's amazing how much you can cram in this and still get a sparkling clean load!  For example, I've put six 10.5 inch dinner plates, 4 salad plates, 3 bowls, 4 mugs, two 10-inch knives, two wooden spoons.\n6. Let's be honest, the 'cup' rack/shelf on the upper left side of the dishwasher is useless for cups.  I've found it very useful for washing small bowls (i.e. cereal bowls).  This frees up more room for mugs in the bottom rack.\n7. Once you've got your dishwasher fully loaded, slide utensils like long chef's knives, wooden spoons, etc. in between your other dishes so that they are lying on their sides.  Just make sure that they aren't hanging down too low!\n8. I find that powdered detergent works better than gel detergent. I have no idea why, but I really thing it cleans better.  Make sure to use detergent that contains enzymes as they help dissolve leftover food from your plates and utensils.\n\nUPDATE!\nJust wanted to circle back to let everyone know that my Danby is STILL going strong after two years.  I've had zero problems with it and continue to love it!\n\nYEAR THREE UPDATE - December 2009\n\nToday was the THIRD anniversary of my beloved Danby dishwasher.  Still running perfectly.  I will try and post a video showing how it runs and how much you can fit in it.  Glad people are finding the tips helpful!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4129, "id": 38521, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 566, "len_tokens": 701, "text": "Most of the reviews are spot on and were extremely helpful for me in setting up this Kegorator.  A few exceptions to note:\n1. Again, they could do better with the instructions; the tower seal can be found on the plug (that would be used if you were using this as a fridge only and were not installing the beer tower).  It is very difficult to twist the tower into the locking position with the seal on there.  I got help from a friend and one pushed the tower down while one twisted it.  I guess you can use some sort of non-toxic lubricant as well.\n2. The spring that you remove from the coupler does not get reinstalled at all.  I assume it is strictly there for shipping.\n3. The spare parts are exactly that, spare parts.  Dont worry that you have a lot of parts left over after assembly.\n4. DO NOT PURCHASE A 15.5 GAL HALF KEG AS YOUR FIRST KEG.  Trust me on this, it took me a few days to get my temperature/pressure just right. You cannot see the gauges with a full keg so purchase a  (7.75 Gal) so you can see and reach your regulator for adjustments.  Also, you could lose some beer during the dial in process.\n5. The regulator that comes with this unit is JUNK!  Mine came with an allen wrench, but there was no setscrew in the regulator to turn.  Plus, the thing leaked so bad through the adjustment I just went ahead and purchased a Taprite dual guage regulator from Cornykeg.com for $47.95, as well as a new 6 5/16 hose.  The unit is still a terrific value even with the terrible regulator.\n6. I like cold beer (~34 degrees), but at the highest setting out of the box the fridge only got to 42 degrees.  I purchased a cheap fridge thermometer from Walmart and keep in the Kerorator to ensure Im getting the temps right before making any adjustments. Kudos to the person who first posted these directions on adjusting the thermostat.  On the back of the unit youll find your temp adjustment knob. Place the knob halfway between min and max and remove the knob.  Remove the two screws holding the box onto the unit, then remove the two screws holding the thermostat to the box.  There is a screw just over where the shaft for the knob is.  Turn that one full turn clockwise. Wait a few hours and see what your temp goes to.  If you have a keg in there it could take longer. I didn't put the thermostat back together until I had it dialed in perfectly, but the choice is yours. You should be able to regulate the temp with the knob now between 32-38 degrees (thats what mine does).\n7. I suggest purchasing an additional Co2 tank and keeping a rotating pool.  When the regulator that came with the unit leaked out all my gas in two days I was prepared with the new regulator/hose and a fresh tank.\n8. Now that Im dialed in Im ready for a 15.5 Gal keg!\n\nAside from the crappy regulator and ambiguous instructions this unit is really a value buy at $383.00 delivered to your door.  I definitely recommend it to those who love the taste of fresh draft beer in the comfort of your own home.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4130, "id": 38738, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 573, "len_tokens": 716, "text": "The quality control about this product has been a total joke.\n\nI was new to the different types of kegs, etc., when I looked into getting this for the office. Just the same, I saw that this was compatible with D-link and Cornelius kegs. I ended up buying a Cornelius pin-lock (incidentally, I'd recommend now getting a Cornelius 'ball' lock, which is a lot more common with home brewing, and was confused until I figured out what was going on when this thing came in. Be aware that this Kegorator is configured for D-link kegs, which are only used commercially and un-cleanable for normal folk without specialized equipment.\n\nFirst things first. The kegerator came with a dented door, and the first night of going through the directions and the parts, I noticed the air hose and connector intended to connect the coupler and the CO2 regulator was missing. It was also missing the gasket that goes between the tower and the top of the fridge. The good thing about dealing with Amazon was that they agreed to refund me $100 for the dents and that it might cost me extra money to obtain replacement parts from Nostalgia.\n\nSo to adapt the parts to a pin lock keg, I had to go to the local supply store and purchase some extra stuff, some red hose line for the CO2, the things to attach the lines to the keg, and various adaptors and barbs from a couple of home improvement stores. Then, when I had everything together and turned on the gas the first time, the regulator that came with the kegerator had a small leak at the gas capacity gauge.\n\nI haven't tested the temperature of the fridge yet, but was annoyed to see that the temp dial was in the lower back corner, where I intended to have the kegerator sitting in a corner. Terrible place for that dial. For anyone who would put the kegerator anywhere except sitting totally out in the open.\n\nAfter all was said and done, it took a lot of time and several trips to various places, and quite a bit of improvising, to get this up and running properly, and I still intend to contact Nostalgia to have them replace the regulator, because I'm leaking minute amounts of gas. Amazon was a good sport, of course, with customer service, but this would have been a major pain to just return and exchange via Prime. I'll update the review with the results of dealing with Nostalgia directly, as well as the temperature and other new developments.\n\n---\n\nUpdate:\n\nThe beer isn't as cold as ideal, but it is okay I guess. My thermal imager is gauging it in the high 30's.\n\nI contacted Nostalgia about the regulator, and after having me describe it (to determine whether or not it was a warranty issue), they sent me a replacement regulator and tower gasket without hesitation.\n\n---\n\nUpdate (2014)\n\nWhen we moved offices, I replaced the regulator that Nostalgia sent, but there's still a small leak somewhere in there, so we're stuck with leaving the gas off until we want to pour some beer, at which time I'll turn it on until it's pressurized, then turn it off again. The pressure valve is finnicky and requires frequent readjustment. The beer is cool, but at max refrigeration settings, this kegerator cannot achieve ideal temperature. Keeping an eye out for a replacement.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4131, "id": 38879, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 592, "len_tokens": 770, "text": "I bought this model in January 2012.  It's worked great so far and we have enjoyed many 1/2 barrels and 1/6 barrels of beer.  As stated in other reviews, don't pay attention to the old reviews.  This is a good, quality kegerator.  FYI - 1/2 barrels are the ones you see at keg parties and are approximately 15.5 gallons and weigh about 160 pounds.  1/6 barrels are the same height as a 1/2 barrel keg, but are much skinnier and are approximately 5.5 gallons and weigh about 60 pounds.\n\nThere have been a few items that I wish I would have known about, which would have prevented some frustration along the way.  These may be common sense to some, but as a newbie kegerator owner, I didn't have a clue.  I wanted to share in case other newbies can benefit from my experiences.  I found these things out on my own or after searching the internet.\n\nFaucet\n * Clean it after every keg.  It comes apart, so disassemble it every time and clean it thoroughly.\n * To keep the faucet from sticking, take a small spray bottle of water and spray water up into the faucet.  It sticks after a day or two of not being used and sometimes it's really difficult to pull the faucet.  Something about the sugars in the beer are exposed to air which makes the faucet stick.  Consider getting a Perlic faucet to prevent this.\n\nCleaning\n * Clean everything after every keg.  This may be a little overkill, but I didn't clean it after three 1/6 barrels of the same beer and I got beer stones in my lines.  Basically, it discolored my beer lines making them look dirty.\n\nCO2 Bottles\n * This comes with a 2.5 lb. bottle, which works just fine.  Probably lasts for 5-6 kegs.  I now have a 5 lb. bottle (which does fit on the back shelf even with the regulator on it) and it's lasted me for seven 1/2 barrels and it's still showing that I have quite a bit left.\n\nReplacement parts\n * This kegerator comes with a few parts, but it's a good idea to get a few more, especially the rubber washers.  Also have some extra beer line on hand, with the proper connectors.\n * The parts it does come with are OK, but I have replaced the faucet and lines with better quality units, which make it even better.\n\nOther notes\n * Let a keg sit at least 2-3 hours after transporting it to let the beer settle, otherwise you could have very foamy beer.  It's even better if you let it sit overnight.\n * You can transport a keg on its side without issue, just let it sit for at least a couple of hours.\n * Not all kegs are created equal.  Most foreign beers (and some domestic craft beers) either will not fit in this kegerator or need a different keg coupler to connect to this kegerator.\n * I actually have this model built into my bar.  While it's not designed to be put into a bar, I made sure I have plenty of ventilation by putting 2-3 small fans near the back of the unit to keep everything as cool as possible.  I use small USB computer fans to do this plugged into a regular outlet.\n * This has drastically reduced my bar tab at some of my favorite establishments as I don't need to go out much anymore.\n\nHope this helps someone out there that has or is looking to buy this kegerator.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4132, "id": 38935, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 537, "len_tokens": 701, "text": "I too was a little skeptical at first, but it all worked out fine.  First off; read, read, read others reviews for installation tips.  I did and it all worked out for the best.  First off, if you're going to go ahead and upgrade to a 5-gal CO2 tank, do it and order at the same time you order your kegorator.  You'll end up saving a few dollars.  I didn't and instead of paying $60 through Amazon, I paid $90 + tax for an empty tank. Here are more recommendations:\n1.  The instuctions are a little vague, but try to follow them and the recommendations of others.  There are lots of extra little gaskets and misc. parts that are shipped with your unit.  Don't panic and think you've missed a step.\n2.  As recomended, use teflon tape on all fittings.\n3.  It doesn't tell you in the manual, but do as others recommende and USE the rubber gasket when you install the beer dispenser tower. I sprayed the gasket with WD-40 first.  It was still a bit of work to twist and lock the tower, but if you omit installing this gasket, you'll lose cold air.\n4.  When you first instal your CO2 tank to set your pressure, be sure to turn the regulator valve all the way off, the open the tank valve (just one turn), then open your regulator valve to the required pressue (7-11 psi).  I found it easier to set the preferred pressure at the CO2 valve and when it stabilized, I used the allen wrench to lock the regulator valve at that pressure.  Note:  Be patient when making this adjustment.  Turn it slighly and wait for it to stabilize.\n5.  I was one of the unfortunate few who's kegorator did not get cold enough at first. The coldest it got was 40 degrees with it turned to MAX and waiting overnight for it to cool down. I followed the recommendation of others, removed the thermostat housing and thermostat, adjusted the screw a few turns clockwise and reinstalled thermostat. Now the temperature sits at 36 degrees with the thermostat set just a 1/2\" before the max setting.\n\nNow for the not so good part.  After all was said and done (e.g. correct temperature and CO2 pressure), I tapped my keg and discovered that I had a faulty beer line.  It had a pin hole at the 90-degree bend of the beer line tail piece.  Beer went everywhere which of course rendered the unit unuseable.  I called the number in the instruction booklet, explainded my issue and they sent a complete beer tower at no cost. BTW, I went ahead a purchased a replacement metal tail piece at a local Home Brew store, cut the plastic tube, inserted the new piece, clamped it down with one of the 'extra' clamps provided and it works fine.  I have an extra beer tower just in case.\n\nI now have ice cold Yuengling Lager on tap.  So, if you follow the recommendation of others, and with a little patience, you shouldn't have many, if any, issues.\n\nUpdate:  It's been well over a year and my Kegorator is still working like a charm.  Cold, cold beer! Cheers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4133, "id": 38941, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 614, "len_tokens": 741, "text": "A few things to note.\n\nThe packaging was poor.  There was a black metal tray that was dented and bent, thankfully it doesn't seem to be a required piece of the unit, so that is good.  At least I haven't been able to find it located in the parts list or in the installation manuals.\n\nThe bag holding all the small o-rings and various parts was torn and ripped open, so I had to literally examine every inch of packaging hoping to find all the lose parts that had been thrown about, some of which even fell out of the box as I first opened it up (the bag was zip loc, not sealed, which only exasperated the situation).  Thankfully, most of these are extras, so even if I had lost some of them I would have probably been fine, except for a few special o-rings.\n\nEverything was filthy, dirty.  I had to clean and disinfect every inch of every part, including the inside of the main unit itself, because they were covered with dirt, dust, packaging goop, tape stick-um, etc. etc.  I had planned on wiping down most things anyway, but the amount of crap everywhere was ridiculous.\n\nThe little tiny allen wrench in the parts bag is used to loosen the control knob on the two stage regulator, who's screw is on one side of the regulator knob body.  Just an FYI because there is no picture of its location, only a lacking explanation.\n\nThe screw caps on the bottom that are used to level the unit if the wheels are not installed are cheap, and one of mine was broken off, so the unit will not sit level, unless if I were to install the wheels, which I don't need to do for my purposes, but may have to in order to keep the unit from wobbling.\n\nFYI, the values they have for length and width are actually backwards.  The width (side to side) is actually the 20\", and the length (back to front) is the 25\".\n\nThe temperature control knob is actually behind the unit, on the left, beside the compressor.  In case you go stick it in a cubby hole, make sure you adjust this knob first so you don't have to pull it back out to reach it.  Regardless, the unit isn't all that heavy, so its not that bad to move, just a bit large is all.\n\nHaving said all of that, everything went together relatively easy.  The shear amount of parts seems daunting at first, but once assembled its really not all that bad.\n\nThe unit itself looks really nice.  I wish the hole where you mount the tower was a little further forward, but whatever.\n\nI have not actually used it thus far as anything other than a fridge (I need to modify my bar a bit first before I can officially install it), so I cannot say whether its main function actually works as intended, but up till now, at a medium temperature setting, it has gotten very cold.  I need to measure the temp, but coming from my main fridge at 35, to this unit, the beer does not seem any warmer, so that is something.\n\nWhen I eventually try it out as a real kegerator, I will update this review to account for any new findings.  Until then, the fridge works well, and the parts go together easy enough, and look like they should work w/o a hitch.  The unit gets cold, and it got cold fast, so you should be fine in that regard.  It seems to have frosted up a bit near the back plate, hopefully that goes away.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4134, "id": 38943, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 623, "len_tokens": 799, "text": "UPDATED 14April2012.\nI've had this keg-o-rator for a few months now.  I really wanted it to be good and started it a four stars.  I now have to drop it to two stars as I would not recommend it.  The price is great, but I would suggest getting one that works from the start.  Or better yet, build your own out of an old refrigerator.  On this model, I like how they added a concave door to a mini-fridge to accommodate a full sized keg (1/2 barrel).  I also like how the CO2 connections are threaded.  Hose clamps are included but not needed for this set up.  Actually there are a lot of parts included that are not used in the set up.  They must be leftover from the original design.  You can tell this design is very different from what is described in older reviews (2010 and before).\nI gave two stars because of four issues.  I will list them in order of my concern.\n1. When the compressor is off the unit is quiet (of course).  At the coldest setting the compressor kicks on about every 15-20 minutes and it is too loud for a living room.  I have it in the next room over and it is still annoying.  There is no insulation to absorb the compressor sound.  I considered insulation, but that would restrict needed air flow.\n2. Originally at the coldest setting the temperature inside is 40-44 degrees.  After reading another post I learned that there is an adjustment screw under the thermostat cover.  I took off the thermostat cover and gave the screw two full clockwise turns.  That made it too cold and I was unable to adequately adjust the temperature with the thermostat.  I had to turn the screw back about 3/4 of a turn.  Now the temp ranges from 34-39 degrees at the coldest setting.\n3. The included CO2 bottle is less than a standard 5 pound bottle.  This is probably so you can get it up on the little shelf in the back of the keg-o-rator and out of the way for a full sized keg.  My local supplier does not refill CO2 bottles.  He only swaps out standard bottles.  I had to buy a 5 pound bottle for $100.  Future swaps are only $14.  The 5# bottle will not fit inside the included CO2 bottle strap.  I did get the 5# bottle onto the shelf, but the shelf is too narrow to keep it from falling forward.  This is very dangerous for a compressed gas bottle, but I was able to keep it up there by tying it down with line to the brackets installed for the smaller bottle.\n4. My last concern is small, because I have a personal preference for German beer.  Most people will drink use local beer kegs which fit fine.  This unit will not hold a keg of Spaten with the coupler installed.  This unit comes with the US style coupler which matches most kegs.  I like Spaten which required me to purchase a German slider coupler.  I easily attached the new coupler because of the threaded connections, but it was about two inches too tall to fit inside the keg-o-rator.  I took out the keg plate at the bottom of the keg-o-rator and was still off by an inch.\n\nBottom line is I spent $350 for the keg-o-rator, $100 for the 5# CO2 bottle and $80 for the new coupler (which was optional).  It is noisy and I had to modify the thermostat to get it cold enough.  If I had it to do over again I would stick with bottled beer or build my own keg-orator out of an old (quiet) refrigerator.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4135, "id": 39521, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 620, "len_tokens": 747, "text": "For those wanting measurements for the mounting holes, here are the measurements from the manufacturer and I even took the time to verify the measurements against my set:\nA.  The two outer holes for the fan blade measure 3 - 15/16\" apart on center.\nB.  The distance from either outer hole to the single center hole is 2 -5/8\".\nC.  The two holes to mount the arm to the motor measure 2 -1/16\" apart on center. (Measured from the center of both holes)\nI've provided a customer image to help explain.\n\nI doubled checked these with my fan blade arms and the measurements check out.  I hope that helps someone out!  Just don't get mad at me if the manufacturer changes things up at some point.\n\nI just used a set of these to save an aging ceiling fan in my parents' house.  I was helping my momd dust an old ceiling fan and I just lightly touched one of the blades and it fell off. It must have been cracked and waiting to let go. I'm just glad I found it this way instead of turning on the ceiling fan and discovering it the hard way.\n\nThese blades fit perfectly on an old fan that isn't even a Westinghouse brand. The only measurement I was concerned with was the width of the bracket going to the motor.  The holes lined up just fine but the bracket width of the motor mount area itself was a little larger. Fortunately it wasn't significant enough to cause any fit issues. (I was worried about possibly needing to grind down the ends of the mounts at first glance.)  These feel a little lighter than the originals but they still feel sturdy and well made.\n\nPROS:\n+  Affordable and much cheaper than replacing an entire fan (This saved my parents $100 )\n+  Easy to install if the holes line up\n+  Hardware to mount the blade to the arm is provided.  (You need to reuse the old screws that mount the blade arms to the fan motor itself)\n+  A set of 5 maintains balance so you don't get a wobble or off balance fan from using a mix of old and new arms.\n+  Even if the holes don't line up correctly for the fan blades you can drill new holes (Just make sure you follow the instructions and keep things centered.)\n\nCONS;\n-  If the holes don't line up you may need to drill your fan blades\n-  I understand why but you can't buy these unless you buy an entire pack of 4 or 5.  If you'd break a replacement mount again in the future you'll still need to purchase 4 or 5 because that's how they're sold.\n\nTIPS:\n-  You really should replace ALL of your old fan blade arms even if only one or two are damaged. This is recommended to maintain proper balance.  These replacements almost definitely have a different weight than the original  fan blade arms. Having a lighter arm on one side and a heaver arm on the other can lead to balance problems, wobble and more. Play it safe and take the extra time to replace them all.\n\n-  Save your old/existing screws that mount your fan blades to the fan itself. (2 per fan blade arm) These screws aren't provided with your purchase and you'll need them to reinstall the fan blades.\n\n-  The most important/critical measurement is going to be the measurement for C. (the distance between the two holes that mount the fan blade arm assembly to the fan motor itself.  You can always do a little drilling on the fan blades themselves if the other 3 holes don't line up properly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4136, "id": 41585, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 638, "len_tokens": 764, "text": "The edgestar countertop dishwasher is a very good dishwasher. It is short enough to fit under my cabinet doors, and just the perfect size to fit between my sink and oven. You will definitely want to measure hieght, width, and length of your countertop next to your sink before purchase, since if it  is even a little too large, it obvious won't fit and makes it's relative usefulness 0.\n\nThe product in question cleans my dishes well. Some dishes have to be placed in the dishwasher at an angle. You can fit most pots and pans in there, as long as you are willing to dedicate a wash to just one or two pots or pans. The only thing I haven't been able to fit are cookie sheets.\n\nOn a daily basis, I usually must preform 2-3 washes between me an my fiancee to keep the dish sink empty. The item is relatively light weight, and with the exception of it's size, I had no problem lifting it up to the counter.\n\nIf you are restricted to a small apartment without a dishwasher, this is a great idea in order to keep your dishes clean.\n\nThe product recommends attaching a permanent water line, which kind of defeats the purpose of a portable dishwasher. However, the sink attachment works great. Both hoses are attached together, so you don't have to worry about one flying out of the sink. It easily detaches and reattaches, no leakage as long as you make it secure. It also has a release button to release pressure safely before you remove the attachment.\n\nThe dishwasher consists of three cycles. Normal/short/ and rinse. When you start Normal cycle with the eggtimer style clock it will continue on through short cycle. After short cycle is done, it stops. You will need th start rinse cycle manually, but since this cycle is only a convenience, not a necessity, it's up to you whether to use it. There are two other buttons, the power button (self explanatory) and the saniwash dry button. The sani button superheats the water in order to be sanitary. It also seems to help with the after drying, seeming to be kind of a steam dry. It is very useful if you accidentally let some bacteria start growing on something you washed to be extra sanitary. I would not recommend using all the time however, since the hotter temp it uses probably puts more wear and tear on the dishwasher, although thats just a theory, nothing confirmed.\n\nAnyway, great device for people who hate doing dishes and want a slightly easier time. It's noisy, but not much more than any standard dishwasher. Make sure it fits and you shouldn't have any difficulty with it.\n\nUpdate:\n\nAbout two months after getting it, the attachment to the sink broke. I called them back, they asked for my tracking number, which I had to obtain from the seller. After that, they sent me the attachment free no questions asked, arrive in 5 days, not a bad deal...\n\nUPDATE 2:\n\nI no longer have this dishwasher. The attachment I spoke of breaking I ended up having to replace 3 more times before I finally used my own hose attachments and rigged my own attachment that was metal and held up better. Shortly after, the dishwasher started leaking through the glass door. This was roughly two years after getting it. At that point, I had to put it to rest, as I was unable to repair it. It does seem to be the best dishwasher out there for that size, but I have found it riddled with  problems and there always seemed to be something with it breaking. It's great if you don't have a choice, but for $100 more, most cheap full size dishwashers could outperform this one any-day.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4137, "id": 43541, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 620, "len_tokens": 724, "text": "After I moved into my New apt. and had to pay for my water for 1st time I decided to buy a Brand New Washer & Dryer set,at the time I had a little X-tra money and seeing I was going to be on a Fixed Income now that it might be a good idea,washers & Dryers usually last at least 10 years or so and it was an Energy Star,save more money and being a single mom this was good.\n Well things went well for awhile the washer cleaned well and spun so much water out they took no time at all to dry esp. in my New Matching Dryer,then one day I goto check my wash and find my Basement is Flooded & water is Comming out the Front Door of this Washer,so I run to shut it off,and clean up the water that I have to Pay for,then we try again and yep it still is leaking out and I end up having to call a Repair Guy,he comes and finds the problem but doesn't carry the needed part but charges me about 60.00,I order the part & Install myself to save a few bucks and it works fine,for awhile anyway...\n  A few months latter Again we have the Flow of Water out the Front Door of the washer but no real reason for it,and again I have to clean up water all over the Basement & then it seems to be fine and working. So a few months latter I throw in a load of laundry and when it was done I went to get it,well I can't seem to get the Washer Door Open and Nothing I did would get it to Open it's holding my wash Hostage and I was SO MAD Now What? I looked,I fiddled,I even called my electrician friend to see if he could by pass a switch or something but Nope that didn't work & I just didn't have the money to get the repair guy over again so I left the wash in there,either that or I break the door to get my wash & I allready wasted enough I felt,thank goodness I still had my old washer to use.\n  Not long after washer Nightmare I went to dry my wash and the Dryer was making a Horrible noise,so I look around inside mabey it's change or something,Nope,I was afraid to use it,it sounded that Bad. So after going to the laundromat a few times I said this is Stupid,so I went & took the Dryer apart to see if I could see anything,well let me warn you if U ever need to look inside yours be Carfull it's Super Sharp inside,guess they couldn't bother to grind the sharp edges,my son ran & got me a couple Band-Aids & I kept going,I didn't see anything wrong and put it all back together,the noise isn't as bad as before so I'm just gonna keep using it as long as I can unless I find a new affordable set.\n I only used the \"Set\" for around 2 years & Less before I started having problems with Washer.\n  When they say it's Energy Efficient there Not Lying esp. when the washer uses No Electricity when it's Not Plugged In/Working & Great on Water esp. when it's no longer hooked-up!!\n  I wish I had the X-Tra 400.00 for extended Warranty but I could've bought a brand new one for that much.\n\n  For Sale Energy King,Queen: Broken Fairly New Washer/Dryer Set,Excellent on Water & Elect. Kidding....", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4138, "id": 44000, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 611, "len_tokens": 740, "text": "Updated Review...\n\nI may end up saving a lot of peoples aggravation with this unit with this information.\n\nWhen I purchased this unit, I owned it for about 6 months and the \"Water Out\" was flashing when there was water in it.  Drained it all out, put new water in, and same problem.  Called support, ended up paying $$$$ to send it back in for repair/replacement and got the new one back.\n\nAfter about a years of use, and I use it daily and love it, same problem last month.  The only thing I did was did a clean as recommended in the instructions with vinegar and water, used it for about a week, and presto, back to the same problem.  The unit is out of warranty, and I was just going to toss the whole thing into the trash I was so fed up.\n\nInstead, I got online, poked around and heard about how this guy tore the whole unit apart, because of the same problem.  I did the same thing, but I should have continued reading.\n\nThere is a filter in the water intake like a mesh screen (in the little notch in the water reservoir) that was clogged.  Unfortunately, I tore all the plumbing out, forced a plastic straw down the water intake pipe, it popped out and sure enough, it was clogged.\n\nI put the everything back into place, while pieces of the unit were sitting all over the kitchen with my girlfriend looking at me like I was going nuts or something, plugged it back in, loaded it with water, and off it went making ice again.\n\nIn the parts diagram in the book, it does not show you this piece which kind of ticks me off because I spent a good part of the afternoon ripping the unit apart and putting it back together again.  And then thinking of all the money I spent to send it back to Newair with them not mentioning this to me.  And the part must cost .05 cents tops!!!!\n\nI don't have fingernails, I keep them trimmed up, but I could have easily had the problem resolved in a few minutes had I known that was the problem.\n\nAnd I almost ended up just trashing the unit.\n\nOriginal Review.\n\nWas a little skeptical about this machine, but when it arrived, I had to check it out.\n\nDid the recommended cleaning, rinsed it all out, poured a gallon of water in it, and it took off making ice like you would not believe.\n\nOne other thing I was curious about is how much electric does this thing really suck up.  I have a Killowatt meter and started measuring how many kilowatts it uses.  To my surprise, a all 1/2 day hook up and running full time does not even generate 1/2 killowatts.  Amazing!!!!\n\nNo problems with smell  have no smell, and I did a clean cycle with viniger), works great out of the box, and not a big energy user but it sure sounds like it sucks up some power but my Killowatt is not showing signs of that.\n\nIn the past being on well water, with the hardness, I don't think I would want to try that out.  I am sure it will clog things up over a short period of time.  I am on nice clean city water.\n\nOnce this baby starts making it first batches of ice, it just rocks and rolls.\n\nVery nice product.\n\nA little big, a little noisy, but that's ok.  Picture shows it as being smaller.\n\nVery good price for what I received and does more than what I expected.\n\nGood job NewAir.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4139, "id": 44070, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 675, "len_tokens": 754, "text": "We use tons of ice, for blended shakes and ice tea/soda, usually at least three 7lb bags a week. But reading the reviews it seemed like ordering this could be hit or miss and spending this kind of money on a 50/50 chance made me beg off. But my Wife got it for me for Christmas, and I have to say it has worked great and we love it so far.\n\nHere are my thoughts and recommendations based on the doubts I had after reading the bad reviews.\n\nFirst, let it sit, we let our machine sit upright for over 24 hours before we used it for the first time.\nSecond, clean the interior with a very mild soap solution and then rinse it very well and dry it off.\nThird, toss the fist few batches of ice just to make sure you get rid of any batches with lingering flavors from the plastic.\nFourth, use filtered or some other source of clean water that tastes good to you.\nFifth, if you want to put the ice in the freezer use 1 gallon plastic bags.\nSixth, Profit!\n\nOne of my biggest fears was that people said putting the ice in the freezer turned it into a big giant frozen blob, and this would make using it in shakes very hard, but we found an easy solution for this. Instead of putting the cubes into a ice bucket we put the cubes into a 1 gallon plastic bag. Each time we add ice to the bag we simply break the ice in the bag up, it is very easy to break apart and once you do it usually stays loose. The bag is a very easy way to move and pour the ice into a glass or a blender.\n\nIt takes about one Britta pitcher full of water to fill up the machine and that makes about two full 1 gallon bags of ice on the small cube setting. And we usually run the machine for one full water cycle a day and that has kept us in plenty of ice, enough to make 3 shakes a day and have 2 to 4 cups of tea/soda a day.\n\nHow long the machine runs is up to you, once the basket if full, about 4 to 5 batches, the machine will shut off until you clear the basket, so if you stay on top of it, it will only take about 3 to 4 hours to make the entire batch. The ice tray drains right back into the water reservoir so even though the machine interior is cold you do not have to worry about melting ice if you forget.\n\nThe machine is relatively quiet but it does have a fan on the side that runs from time to time. And even when the machine says its out of water there will still be about a half inch of water in the reservoir. So if you plan to leave it off for a while you may want to drain the water.\n\nI have noticed that if the basket fills up and the machine shuts off, once you clear the basket it may not start making ice again right away. There is a small metal probe that the basket sits on, this is a thermometer, and if ice is touching the probe it shuts down. So to get the machine started right away after you dump the basket just put your fingers on the metal probe to warm it up and it will start making ice right away.\n\nSo far this is a complete win, we are saving over 250 dollars a year on ice, and even if this machine only lasts 6 months, and we have to buy another one we are still saving money. Plus add the convince of not having to constantly buy ice and it just keeps getting better.\n\nIf you have any doubts just go for it, and follow these instructions, you can always get a refund so there really is no risk.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4140, "id": 44555, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 641, "len_tokens": 733, "text": "I have had this unit for almost 2 years and it has been plugged in and running 24/7. We bought it originally because we do lots of shakes and smoothies and my refrigerator icemaker never came back to life after 3 attempts at repairs. We got tired of buying bags of ice, and we use way too much ice to use trays, so we bought this icemaker from amazon in 2013. It is awesome! I keep it right on my kitchen counter between the sink and the blender. I fill a pitcher with water from the sink and pour it into the unit, and I scoop the ice right from the unit into the blender. The only reason I gave it 4 stars is because the plastic water tray that holds the water where the ice is actually made just got a crack in it, and now the unit will not make any ice. I live in an area with very hard (well) water and we put water right out of the faucet into the unit. I wonder if the plastic just couldn't handle the minerals in the water here(?). Anyway, after 3 frustrating weeks of doing ice trays and bags, and since my 14 year old refrigerator doesn't seem to be on its deathbed, I'm back on amazon contemplating buying another one. Even though the first one lasted only 2 years, for the price I paid vs. the extraordinary convenience I feel like it is worth it AND much cheaper than buying a new refrigerator. Here are a couple of items to note:\n1. If you leave the unit on, it will stay cold enough to keep the ice in the bucket mostly frozen, and as long as you use the ice at a steady pace, you don't need to dump the extra ice in your fridge freezer. Note, however, this unit is not a freezer. The inside is basically cold like a refrigerator is. At the times when we've wanted extra ice on hand, we simply dump the ice into our fridge freezer more often and this unit just keeps pumping it out.\n2. If the unit has been unplugged for a while, or if you are using faucet water (vs. cold water from the fridge), or if the unit is running outside (at a campground or picnic for example) we have noticed that it takes longer to make the first couple batches of ice. I think this is due to the fact that when the unit is warm, or the water is warm, then it has to take extra time to cool itself down. But once it's been on a while, the batches come fast and steady and there's no slowdown unless it runs low on water or if it fills up the basket.\n3. If the power goes out or the unit is shutdown mid-cycle, follow the directions on the label in the unit to get it to restart properly. Restarting it can be a little unreliable if you don't follow the directions.\n4. It does make some noise when it's running, and of course you can hear it when it dumps the ice in the bucket, just like with a regular refrigerator ice maker. I noticed the noise the most when it was running low on water. It was never noisy enough to really be a bother, however, and i could certainly talk on the phone or have conversations and not get distracted by the noise. The best way i can describe it was almost like having white noise in the background. Visitors to my home frequently noticed the unit in my kitchen, but only because of the bright red box on the counter, not due to the noise. And I think a lot of them were a little jealous of our cool little icemaker.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4141, "id": 45169, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 618, "len_tokens": 714, "text": "This gets a 5 star rating from me. It's built really well and it's very quick at putting out ice. My wife and I are bartenders and have get togethers with friends at least once a week. We make so many cocktails that the refrigerator ice maker couldn't keep up with us. Rather than buy bags of ice, or bag the ice during the week from the fridge to save for \"cocktail nights\" I looked into getting something else that made ice without the pain of freezing ice cubes in trays (I hate to be lazy, but I wasn't going to do that every week).\n\nFor those confused about how this thing works, it's pretty basic and any bad review about having to do this or that to keep the machine making ice should be ignored. It has a holding area for water. Keep that filled. We have a blender next to this thing and we just fill the blender basket with water and dump it in the ice maker (takes two fills and about 20 seconds to do). You're all set for quite a bit of ice after that. In about 15 minutes you'll have your first dump of ice cubes. The tray that holds the ice cubes inside of the machine has slits on the bottom so when the ice in the machine melts, it goes right back into the process of making more ice. We always use the large cube setting and the ice melts nicely with the drinks. I'm not a huge fan of \"red\", but I don't really care since this icemaker does its job very well. We have it sitting on the kitchen counter and the window on the top of the door is kind of pointless, but who cares... if you had it sitting lower it may be really useful to someone.\n\nThere is very little effort to keep the icemaker focused on its job... making ice. The lights on the front do exactly what they're supposed to. Green means on and the size of cube choice. Red means either \"I'm out of water... fill me\", or the bin is full of ice. There is a big metal sensor on the inside right of the machine. If you want an insane amount of ice, just do this trick... If an ice cube comes in contact with this sensor, just take the little scoop it comes with and move some of the ice away from it. It'll pump out a ton of more ice. If the sensor didn't exist then this machine would keep making ice until it ran out of water. The only thing I noticed is that if you let it run out of water, and then fill it, it may not continue to make ice. Just press the power button and wait like 10 seconds. The machine will turn off and then the pump releases the water back into the holding tank. Turn it back on and you'll hear the pump fire back up and it will begin the icemaking process all over again.\n\nI love it, and we have used it EVERY day since it arrived. One thing to note is that it does not have a freezing/refrigeration type of cooling to keep the ice frozen. It will and does melt back into the icemaking process. We don't really care because it's in a constant rotation of making ice and don't consider it any kind of deal breaker. It would greatly increase the cost, I'm sure. Along with the size and probably the electricity it would use. I could definitely see this as an RV must have, or even on a boat.\n\nBartender tested and approved.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4142, "id": 48958, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 578, "len_tokens": 712, "text": "After less than two years, the dual MR16 lights stopped working. I sent an email to tech support at the company, and they advised I bypass the 110V-12V transformer, and install GU10 bulbs instead (running the lights at 110V instead of 12V). They even sent me pictures showing what needed to be done, and offered to sell me their very own $50 kit, which made it all plug and play (and convenient).\n\nBefore ordering anything, I looked over the unit a bit more. No power in or out of the 12V transformer. I looked over the circuit board, and found a blown 5x20 glass fuse hidden on the main circuit board. I had to pull a wire off the board to gain access, which was secured with a crimped-on female push-on terminal. When I tried pulling the terminal off the board, the entire male end that was soldered to the board pulled out along with it! I pushed it back in enough to make contact, but this connection is not solid, and cannot be trusted. Moving on, I replaced the fuse, and there is power into the transformer now, but nothing out. Obviously a blown transformer, but still wondering why the fuse blew.\n\nHaving much DIY electrical experience with homes, boats, and cars, I knew I could easily re-wire these lights without buying a silly $50.00 kit. It's a two hot and neutral wires split to two light bulbs, not a NASA space shuttle for God's sake.\n\nAfter the re-wire, the lights work, but do not turn off. They are always on regardless of button position. Now the company is telling me I need a new circuit board (conveniently, again a $50 cost), and apparently they claim their units do not have a fuse on the board at all (even after I sent them pictures of mine). They also recommended I solder the male terminal that pulled out back to the board. They also had no explanation as to how the \"mystery fuse\" and board blew, and just blamed me for rewiring the lights without using their kit (typical). I'm guessing when the transformer shorted, the fuse did not blow fast enough to protect the board from damage. They refuse to acknowledge that, and will not cover any parts under good will, and will not even discount anything. They seem to believe 2-years of use is a long time.\n\nAlso, to make matters worse, because I had the grills off, my wife decides to wash them in the dishwasher, since the RangeHoodsInc website says they are dishwasher safe. They came out looking horrendous! They are severely discolored, with white powdery spots and dark blotches and a very uneven tone all around. They blamed this on phosphate-free dishwasher soap! I clean a lot of metal in my dishwasher and have NEVER seen this before. And these are $60 to replace! No where on their website does it state to use a certain type of soap in the dishwasher. On the range hood product page, it says they are dishwasher safe not once, but TWICE!\n\nWhat a great way to treat a customer, especially for a 5-year young company, and a 2-year old $500 product!\n\nAnyway, just wanted to share my experience to those shopping for a new range hood. I found very little on this company before I ordered it, and still find very little. Go for something better quality, and with real customer support.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4143, "id": 49282, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 604, "len_tokens": 719, "text": "I purchased this from Amazon and was delivered on time without any problem. It took me about 2 hours to install with my wife's help. I could not remove my range so installing is a little bit awkward as I have to lean to the range trying to push the hood up and it's heavy. I concur with other review that there is damper for the 7\" round duct, but only for 3 1/4\" x 10\" duct. But since I only have ductless option, so the damper is extra.\nCompare to my old range hood, this is very quiet. The old one was so noisy that my wife didn't turn it on because we can not communicate without yelling at each other. With the new Broan, noise for level 1 is hardly noticeable. The lights are beautiful. Frankly, I should have replaced it few years ago.\nThe fan is on the left hand side. When I place a piece of 8 x 11 inch paper, it is only sucked up on the left area where the fan is located. I use duct tape to cover places that are intended for ducts. I follow the instruction from 1 - 5 then skip to 15. So far, it works perfectly. I also order charcoal filter from Amazon to filter odor from cooking.\nThere is one step that applies for ductless installation, that is to remove the blower wheel and insert the retainer ring to steer air directly to the air flow through the non-ducted slots.\nDo not use LED lights, the lights always flash even when I turn them off. I read on Amazon review and saw that someone using LED lights. It may works on different model, but not with this model (QS230SS). It works perfectly with Halogen lights.\nCons:\n- There is only one blower which is on the left hand side, so the it draws air better on that side.\n- The instruction shows to remove Teflon-coated bottom cover, but it never mentions to put it back on.\n- The edges are very sharp and easy to cut to my fingers.\n- Electrical Cable Clamp is not provided, cost me a trip to Lowes.\n- The filters do not cover 100%.\n- My old power cable is located on the left but this range hood has the knock-out on the right. Lucky, I found the way to run the cable to the right.\n- Smoke from front stoves will not likely be sucked through the filters.\n- It would be nice if they include a piece of carton paper to mark for screw locations as I didn't want to cut its box because I may have to return it. First, I wanted to fit it then drilled the screws in, but it didn't work for the left side which was occupied by the blower. Then I measured the left side, drill the screws, put the range hood in place with two screws on the left then work on the right. it became much easier that way. After the done tightening screws on the right hand side, I went back to tighten up the screws on the left hand side with long screwdriver.\nSo far, it meets our expectation. Now, my wife doesn't have to turn off the range hood each time she answers a phone call. Level 1 is quiet, but it is not very effective. Level 2 is practical, and the noise is still so good compared to our previous one. The installation was relatively easy and two hour was well spent. We should have done it a long time ago.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4144, "id": 49683, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 595, "len_tokens": 701, "text": "We had our contractor install this hood a couple of years ago when we remodeled our kitchen in 2011.  We wanted something reasonably attractive, that didn't call attention to itself, that fit in our kitchen. On aesthetics, this hood was fine. Not an award winner, certainly, but quite acceptable and better tha most every other choice in its price category. We had installed a more expensive brand, imported, in another house, that we liked a lot, and in retrospect,we wish we had paid the extra amount to duplicate that earlier hood in this house, as this Broan has been a pain to live with.  Two major functional problems with the design make it a hood that I would avoid.\n\n1. It has some kind of sensor (heat? steam?) that automatically turns it on, at its special super-high and thus super-noisy speed, when you do something like boil pasta. Not immediately, but only after your pot has been boiling a bit, about the time the pasta is done and you're getting ready to sit down to dinner. Once it goes on this way, it cannot be turned off--there is no switch to turn it off. We couldn't believe this, assumed there must be a switch we couldn't find that was too obvious to mention in the manual, which didn't mention any, and so we finally called the local dealer for help. He confirmed there was no way to turn off this super loud fan once it turned on. That meant that every time we made pasta, we had to eat dinner to the accompaniment of a jet engine sound at our kitchen table. I finally installed my own switch in the electric line that feeds the hood, which is obviously hard wired and does not normally have a switch. Not something you would expect to have to do.\n\n2. After about a year or so, we had to replace the light bulbs. That's perfectly reasonable. But the problem is that the normal pressure one must apply when screwing a bulb into the socket easily knocks the socket off its footing inside the hood. The bulbs then flop around and frequently the lights don't work.  I had to take the hood apart to fix this (and that was feasible only because I had previously installed the switch, see number 1, and so could turn off all power going into the hood).  Once apart, the problem was obvious: the sockets are themselves connected to the internal structure via a couple of flimsy clips that are clearly inadequate. You push on the bulb as you screw it in, and you knock the socket out of its footing inside the hood.\n\nBoth these design flaws are so obvious it's hard to imagine how any competent designer could have produced this product.  I would stay away from this.\n\nUPDATE:  Just visited a friend who has the same hood--and who experienced precisely the same problem that we had with the bulb socket on the right side coming off.\nUPDATE 2 (April 2014): Now both bulb sockets, right and left, come off, and somehow this happens over time in normal use, not just if you are replacing the bulb.  Each time this happens, I have to spend a tedious and unpleasant half hour taking the hood apart (after cutting off electricity to it) to put the sockets back in place.  I would not trust any positive review of this hood unless it is from someone who has owned it a couple of years--long enough to have had this flaw appear.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4145, "id": 50865, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 600, "len_tokens": 731, "text": "We actually bought this Bosch dishwasher model SHE45M06UC at Lowes with a 10% discount for a total of about $635 in January 2008. It is superb!  We originally were looking at the Kenmore and Whirpool lines in the $500 range.  But after examining the Bosch we went ahead and spent another $135 to get it.\n\nI think we could easily have been happy with the kenmore or Whirlpool models, but we are glad we bought the Bosch SHE45 instead.  We are very pleased with it even at the premium price.\n\nSignificant features:\n- All stainless steel interior and nylon coated racks (not likely to wear through and rust)\n- Opti-Clean dirt sensor to automatically adjust cleaning time\n- Regular, pot scrubber and half wash\n- Time delay\n- 51 db (super quiet)\n- Qualifies for an Oregon State engery savings tax credit\n- No heater coils exposed so you can place plastic items on lower rack\n\nPROS: Every Bosch is much quieter that any most other brand because it does not have a food grinder built in. It just uses a stainless steel mesh screen which is easy to empty and only needs to be emptied every month or so. We scape and quickly rinse our dishes before putting them in the dishwasher anyway, so a food grinder seemed superfluous. Fewer moving parts also means fewer things to break or wear out.\n\nAnother feature we like is the stainless steel tub/liner which is heavier gauge than the similar Kenmore. Granted, our old Kenmore never wore out its plastic liner, but the Bosch interior is NICE.\n\nThis model is not only quieter than even most Bosch models (you can barely hear it and is much quieter than our microwave across the kitchen), it also uses about half the energy per year as the cheaper SHE43 model.\n\nIt is fantastic to be able to put large plastic items (mixing bwls, colander, etc.) on the lower rack.  This is because most washers have a heating element exposed in the bottom of the interior and will melt plastic items to close to it.  the bosh uses an enclosed heater that has the water forced through it making every part of the interior the same temperature as the water.\n\nDishes come out VERY clean.  Only uses one tablespoon of detergent for our Pacific Northwest soft water.\n\nVery easy to raise and lower the top rack.\n\nCONS:\nDrying of items takes longer as the heating element is not exposed in the interior.  This is not a problem for just my wife and I and occasional family get togethers. We typically only wash a load ever 1-2 days.  But if you frequently needed to do back-to-back loads for a large family or groups, then the Bosch line may not be the best for you.\n\nThe racks seem not to hold our particular type of dishes as efficiently as I expected.  Again, for just the two of us now it is no problem.  I think the Kenmore/whirlpool may have a better rack design.\n\nInstallation requires very specific routing of the power and water lines along the floor.  This is because it fits so close to the floor that it has channels molded into the bottom to allow the passage of these two lines.  However, with no experience I was able to do this by making sure I had long enough lines to get them routed through while the dishwaser was just in front of its cubbyhole and fully exposed.  Other guys I talked to suggested taping the lines to the floor at the distances specified in the instructions.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4146, "id": 51159, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 645, "len_tokens": 779, "text": "On the upside, this washer fits in tight spaces, provides lots of wash cycle flexibility, and, in my experience, isn't too noisy. But we've had two of them, and I just can't recommend it to anyone.\n\nFirst, it gets smelly. Soap gunk builds up inside the drum, which you need to wipe out as best you can every once in a while. Our clothes don't get smelly (as far as I can tell) or stained, but it's kind of gross. Using the right detergent helps, and you also need to remember to leave it open to dry out when you're not using it. But this is just the start of your headaches with this unit...\n\nSecond, it's too easy for coins, paper clips, etc. to get into the drain pump because there isn't anything, like a filter, that prevents them from doing so. If you forget to take all of the pennies out of your pockets (which will happen eventually), it's likely that one will get behind the drum and into the drain pump, at which point you'll hear a horrific grinding sound when the washer drains. In the best case scenario, you'll stop the washer in time and will be able to remove the coins from the pump. (It's relatively easy to do - search online for \"Maytag MAH2400 coins in drain pump\" or something like that to find out how - although it requires going through the bottom of the machine to disconnect and remove the drain pump. Voila! You'll find the culprit, which is fulfilling in a perverse kind of way.) In the worst case scenario, your drain pump will get shredded, and you'll have to replace it (approx. $100 I think).\n\nThird, you'll likely face a variety of other problems. Some reviewers here have had problems with the door or with leaking water. We haven't had either of those problems, but our first unit crapped out when the drum essentially broke so that it couldn't hold the belt. After over a month of waiting for the Maytag repairman to get a new drum in stock with repeated assurances that \"we'll have it soon!\" (they eventually concluded that they wouldn't - their customer service isn't very good), we ended up getting a new one (did so rather than getting a different washer because we also have the Maytag drier that sits on top of the washer). Now, after about 18 months, our new one won't spin either. We're getting the dreaded 3E error code (search for it online) which indicates that something is wrong with the motor or control board. I'm going to spend a few days trying to figure out what's wrong (and there's lots of online info about how to fix the many problems with this unit), but as our laundry builds up, I'm just not sure what I'll do. Pay a few hundred dollars to a repairman who may not be able to fix it anyway? Buy another one? (Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice.... well, we had reasons for getting our current one. But fool me three times?!?!?) Or just switch to a whole different washer set-up?\n\nIf this is the type of excitement associated with your washer that you want in your life, then by all means, consider this washer. Same applies if you like being a handyman and want a wide variety of problems to diagnose and fix in your appliances (especially if you're not careful about cleaning out your pockets). But if you're like me, and you just want a washer that works - for an extended period of time - then avoid this model like the plague. (A last point is that you can find lots of reviews for this model elsewhere online, and I have yet to find a set of generally positive reviews for it.)", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4147, "id": 51486, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 639, "len_tokens": 765, "text": "Many complain about long drying time and lack of heat with this Haier Dryer. After studying the design a bit and tinkering with it's workings, I found the answer, and it relates to the bad design of the dryer: poor placement of the heater element.\n\nAnd now for the explanation:\n\nThe Physics:\nThis dryer has a PTC heater element, which means that there is no thermostat in the dryer - the element itself regulates the heat output based on it's own internal temperature. If air flows across the element and is thus cooled, it's resistance drops, more current flows and the element outputs more heat energy. If no air flows across the element, the heater will heat up internally, it's resistance increases until little or no current flows, and will output little or no heat energy (the element itself will be hot, but will consume little current and output little energy). To watch this phenomenon, plug the empty dryer into a watt meter and turn the dryer on high. Note the watts consumed - around 1000. Now open the door and stick a pen in the door switch and again turn the dryer on high - it will quickly drop from 1000 watts to around 300. This is because no air is moving across the element (it is flowing through the open door) and the heater regulates itself to produce the same internal temperature, but with little energy consumption and output.\n\nThe Bad Design:\nThe drum spins in a clockwise rotation. The heater is placed at the 8 o'clock position. When the dryer is empty, air is able to move freely across the element, through the inside of the drum, and out the exhaust. If the dryer is lightly filled with clothes, the clothing is rotated up past the element, slightly blocking the air moving across it and reducing it's heat output. If the dryer is heavily loaded, the rotating clothing will be constantly blocking the heater's airflow and you will wind up with very little heat and 4 hour dry times.\n\nIf the heater had been placed at the 2 o'clock position, the rotating clothing would \"tumble down\" by the 12 o'clock position and leave the heater's air space to be free of obstruction.\n\nThis problem is compounded by: (a) A faulty door seal - air leaks in through the door opening, and further reduces the air entering through the heater's air port. (b) a weak exhaust fan, unable to move much air.\n\nThe Solution:\nThere is no real solution to this design but it can be mitigated in a few ways:\n1. Do not load the dryer more than half full. (the manual says 2/3 full, but I disagree)\n2. Make sure your vent is always clear and the lint trap cleaned - this helps airflow.\n3. Glue down a bead of silicon caulk around the outer edge of the door to help seal it. (you'll need to remove the door to do this properly)\n4. Install a baffle inside the dryer to guide clothes away from the element as they spin past it. (put your DIY cap on)\n5. Cut a notch in the door and install a fan to push air through the heater. (do this at your own risk)\n6. Modify the exhaust fan belt / pulley to cause the fan to spin faster (do this at your own risk)\n\nConclusion:\nI think the design of this dryer has a fatal flaw which causes it's normal operation to be severely restricted. Consumers should not need to become engineers in order to use a simple and standard household appliance.\n\nUPDATE: I ended up adding a fan booster to the exhaust vent, which greatly increases airflow, and shortens full load drying times to a more reasonable 1 1/2 - 2 hours (vs. 3-4 hours).", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4148, "id": 52529, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 588, "len_tokens": 728, "text": "We installed this range when we remodeled our kitchen 2 1/2 years ago and have used it extensively since then, and have come to love it.  Here is what we've learned about it: You better have a GOOD technician to set it up properly and CAREFULLY adjust everything so that all the burners work correctly. BUT once set correctly, all burners have kept their adjustments and we've had no problems.  We have the model with gas burners on top, gas main oven and electric bottom oven.\n\nThere is some kind of a vent fan that comes on in the oven at around 375 degrees, or above, and stays on until the oven cools back down, and it blows hot air out the slots at the BACK of the top.  This hot air is hot enough that it cracked the grout between the metallic ceramic tiles of our backsplash and we had to replace the grout with colored silicone.  But the original grout job wasn't done right, and the silicone looks better anyway, soooo, no problem.  However, my wife used to be annoyed by the noise of the fan, but she's gotten used to it.  It isn't loud enough that it ever bothered me, but it is noticeable.\n\nWe've seen in some reviews where folks complained about the noise of the fan when cooking in convection mode.  The convection fan is much quieter than the vent fan mentioned in the previous paragraph. In fact, it's almost inaudible, BUT we don't use the convection mode when baking above 375 degrees, so I don't know if the convection fan gets louder above 375.  BTW, the Convection Roast with Probe is a fantastic way of cooking meats.  It has always turned out perfect, without fail, but we've been careful to get the probe properly inserted into the meat.\n\nWe've seen complaints in reviews about the front knobs and panel getting hot while using the oven.  We've NOT had that problem at all, ever.  I believe there must be a setup problem with the ranges that are having that problem.  I also wonder if that's a problem with the electric main ovens and not the gas ovens.\n\nThe bottom oven has a 120 volt element in it rather than the 240 volt elements that normal electric ovens have, but it still cooks perfectly, HOWEVER, you have to allow for a little extra time for pre-heat, but it's not a huge amount of extra time since the bottom oven is not as large as the top one.\n\nWhen you go to cook pancakes on the griddle, because of the mass of the griddle, you have to allow it plenty of time to get good and hot.  I drop a couple droplets of water on it and don't put the batter on it until the droplets sizzle good.  You have to keep the burner wide open on high the entire time you're using the griddle to cook effectively.  But it DOES cook well, once it's hot and kept hot.\n\nWe really like the heat ranges of the burners.  The power burners heat and bring things to a boil quickly, but turn down to simmer very nicely.  The simmer burner on the back right is terrific for warming and slow cooking.\n\nAll in all, we love this range.  The owner's manual could be more clearly written, but the info in it is correct, unlike the one for the last gas range we owned before this one.  We highly recommend this range and would buy it again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4149, "id": 52818, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 467, "len_tokens": 777, "text": "When I was fighting a humidity issue in my workshop, I realized I couldn't solve it without monitoring results - and picked up a&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/SensorPush-Wireless-Hygrometer-with-Alerts/dp/B01AEQ9X9I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">SensorPush Wireless Hygrometer with Alerts</a>&nbsp;for that purpose.\n\nIt quickly became apparent that, although the SensorPush is awesome, I wanted to be able to see the humidity at a glance when I'm out there - so I also picked up a&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/ThermoPro-TP55-Digital-Hygrometer/dp/B06XTPTG1J/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">ThermoPro TP55 Digital Hygrometer</a>&nbsp;that I could just stick to my gun safe using magnets.\n\nIf I hadn't been using the SensorPush, I probably would have been happy with the ThermoPro - but I did have a couple of issues with it:\n\n1) The humidity level didn't match the levels from the SensorPush - which was driving me nuts.\n\n2) Even when the SensorPush reported wide swings in relative humidity, the ThermoPro seemed to stay stuck.  It was always reporting 48-52%, even though the SensorPush reported a far larger range.\n\nAfter a couple of weeks, I came back to Amazon and picked up the AcuRite 01080 Hygrometer - which turned out to be an excellent decision.\n\n1) The readings on the AcuRite are FAR faster, so it reports the same swings as the SensorPush.\n\n2) The AcuRite supports calibration (which I did using a&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Boveda-One-Step-Calibration-Kit/dp/B000A3UBLA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Boveda One-Step Calibration Kit</a>).  It's a little hard to calibrate the Acurite inside the Boveda bag; but, only took a few minutes using the button map from the instruction pages.  (The problem is you can't see the buttons - you have to feel for them.)\n\nIt's interesting that the AcuRite was off by almost 5% out of the box - but now it matches the SensorPush (which is also calibrated) perfectly.\n\nAfter reading reviews, I almost didn't buy the AcuRite because of complaints about the display contrast and size.  Personally, I don't see the issues at all - it seems plenty big for my purposes; and, although the contrast definitely isn't as good as the sticker that comes on it - it isn't bad either.  The contrast is pretty much comparable to any other digital display.\n\nIf you're comparing the AcuRite vs the ThermoPro, the ThermoPro has an easy-to use touchscreen and backlighting, while the AcuRite seems to focus more on being a good hygrometer.\n\nIf you're going to be constantly switching back and forth between Celsius and Fahrenheit, or want a backlight, then consider the ThermoPro - otherwise just grab the AcuRite, it really is an excellent unit.\n\n[*** Update 12/12/2017 ***]\n\nThis has worked so well that I ended up getting another one to track the humidity by my main gun safe.  After letting it settle for about 8 hours and calibrating it - it works just as well as the first and tracks the other sensors perfectly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4150, "id": 54850, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 591, "len_tokens": 750, "text": "I have been using my washer for almost 7 months.  This is the precise model that I have, except mine is black.  I have not had the problems others seem to have.  It has only had an unbalanced load (UL) three times in that period, and each time, adjusting the clothes solved the problem.  Below is the review I originally wrote for the machine, updated by these comments.  It is still relevant in my case.\n\nI will agree unconditionally that Whirlpool's customer service is CRAPPY.  I tried contacting them several times (email and phone) for a part that I couldn't find for the matching dryer (to convert it from natural gas to LP gas) and NEVER got a response.\n\n************************\n\nNovember 10, 2006\n\nThis little wonder is as wonderful as Whirlpool (\"WP\") keeps insisting.\n\nNow let me first say that every washing machine I have ever owned has been a WP - so there is some loyalty there. But bias aside, this machine delivers.\n\nThe 'space age' console that lit up like a Christmas tree was impressive enough, but WP added ease of operation. Use the pre-set wash cycles (turn the knob) or modify each to your liking (press the up and down buttons at each selection) - poetry in motion. One CAVEAT - I have not yet tried to programme a delayed wash, so I don't know how easy that is. The instructions in the manual seemed simple enough though.\n\nLARGE TUB: The stainless steel tub is deceptively large. When I first looked in I noted the absence of the agitator but still I thought it wasn't as large as had been advertised. Then I put in what was in my old machine a \"medium\" load. My medium load became an extra small. What joy!\n\nWATER SAVING: They do not lie! No more clothes swimming (pun) in water. This washer 'measures/weighs' the clothing (ain't technology wonderful?) and adds just enough water to the clothes to clean them. I was counting the savings (and apparently saving a tree in the Amazon) as I sat in fascination and watched my clothes wash. (Love the see through lid by the way).\n\nCLEANING RESULTS: Clean the clothes it did. My whites were clean and fresh.\n\nLOTS OF CYCLES: To suit every need. The BULKY ITEMS cycle is a gem.\n\nLID LOCK: The lid locks as soon as you press the Start button. You can pause during any cycle by pressing the Pause/Cancel button once (twice will cancel the wash), then pressing Start to continue.\n\nFEATURES: Too many to adequately expound on here. I love the THREE DISPENSERS - detergent (only high efficiency liquid or powder), liquid bleach and fabric softener. The end-of-cycle ALERT is indispensable and can be turned off, soft or loud. The machine is QUIET. Capital QUIET. Amazingly QUIET! (which is why you really need the end-of-cycle alert). The DRAIN AND SPIN cycle is great for those times when you start a wash and can't finish. The CLEAN MACHINE cycle - also a keeper.\n\nThe machine has a pleasing design and despite greater capacity and features, seems to take up less floor space than my older model washer.\n\nI personally suggest using a surge suppressor with this washer simply because so many of the features are computerised and it is a large investment (would be a shame to watch it go down in flames).\n\nI haven't had it long enough to comment on energy savings, but for every other reason cited above (and more), I fully recommend this washer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4151, "id": 54877, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 530, "len_tokens": 721, "text": "<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-Duet-Series-WFW9400SW-27-Duet-Front-Load-Washer-with-4-0-cu-ft-Capacity-14-Wash-Cycles-1200-RPM-Speed-White/dp/B000N5KPAC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool Duet Series WFW9400SW 27\" Duet Front-Load Washer with 4.0 cu. ft. Capacity, 14 Wash Cycles & 1200 RPM Speed: White</a>\n\n  I have had my new Whirlpool Duet pair for about 1 1/2 weeks now. I am completely in love. I had a Kenmore top load washer and dryer for almost 10 years. I was happy with how my clothes came out and I never really understood when people had complaints about their washers not cleaning clothes well or wearing out their clothes so quickly. I now understand. I washed a load of whites in the front loader. Not doing anything different than what the washer's manual suggests doing (I also followed manufacturer's suggestion on old machine) and I can not believe the difference. I took a white sock from the load out of the new machine and one out of my drawer that had been washed using the old machine. My 12 yr old, 9 yr old, and 4 yr old all noticed the difference without me telling them which came from the new machine. My husband even noticed. They all thought that the old machine sock was actually dirty. Needless to say, I have been slowly rewashing all of the clothes that supposedly were already clean from my old machine.\n\n  Now, I read a lot of reviews about the Whirlpool front loads. Some were very discouraging. I was a little nervous making the purchase with some of the information that is out there, however, I am glad to report I have not had any of the issues. One thing that I did read about in the manual is that you have to use HE laundry detergent or your front load machine will suds too much. This will lead to mildew smell or mold inside the drum. Our sales guy told us it would be the equivalent to putting hand dish soap in your dishwasher. The manual also says that you need to leave the door open after you complete laundry so that the washer drum can fully dry. The reason is that the front loads have an airtight seal that will not let air in to dry, thus causing mildew and mold. There were also complaints about the vibration when the unit is spinning. We had the machine installed by the store we bought the units from. Unfortunately, when my husband came home and I told him that they did not seem as sturdy as I would like, he found that they did not tighten the locking bolts after they \"leveled\" it. However, it was not leveled properly either. Becuase of this, as the machine spun the clothes, it wiggled even more unlevel which made a horrible vibration noise. Now that my husband leveled it and locked the locking bolts, we have had no problems.\n\nI think the best part of the machine is that it sprays water into the soap, softner, bleach trays to completely get out the soap. It makes it nice not having to clean out the tray each time so build up doesn't happen! I feel that if anyone gets the unit you will not regret it! Good luck shopping!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4152, "id": 54886, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 620, "len_tokens": 790, "text": "I am happy for those of you who have not had problems w/this machine!  HOWEVER, you seem to be much fewer than those of us who have had issues w/this machine... 2 weeks after we purchased this machine things started to go bad, but I was in denial because I wanted to LOVE this machine so desperately!  It was SUPPOSED to be our dream machine, but turned out to be our laundry nightmare!!!\n\nIt all started w/an LD error... okay, that means \"long drain\" check for a kink in the hose, not enough of the drain hose in the wall drain, blah, blah, blah... a repair man came here & told me it is because of too much soap & taking too long to drain.  I had done my research BEFORE we bought this machine because I was so determined to make it work, that I wanted to make sure I used it right.  Showed the repairman my HE bottle of WHIRLPOOL endorsed detergent, & told him I was using about 2 tsp (if that) of soap for a FULL load... told him I kept checking to see how many suds there were to make sure there was enough, but not too much soap.  He told me to add a bucket of water to the machine if the LD error came up again & to use LESS soap... I smiled & said OKAY, but was thinking that he STILL thinks I am using too much soap... whatever!!!  NOT the case... I know to check the rinse cycle to check for any soap residue & there was NONE.  I also asked him if there was too much detergent, then WHY DIDN'T I get the sud error message, hmmm?!?!?\n\nOf course, the LD error came up again & again & again.  Adding water did nothing, nor did cancelling the load & starting over... I had to unplug it & let it sit EMPTY overnight before it would work again.  Not very productive, let me tell you!  I humored the repairman & even tried less detergent AND same thing!!! had I used any less detergent, I would have been washing my clothes w/water!!!!\n\nThen the whole ridiculous F1 error came up... UGGHHH!!!  WHAT IS THAT???  According to Whirlpool it is an \"electrical\" issue... the repairmen came here 4 MORE times & guess what, IT STILL DOES NOT WORK!!!!  I have had a new control board (brain), things taken apart & cleaned, etc.  GIVE ME A BREAK!!!!\n\nI am seriously FED UP, & so is my hubby.  He is determined he is going to peorsonally take this machine back to Sears & tell them to eat their return policy... I hope it works... not sure what machine to get next, assuming Sears takes this hunk of junk back?!?!?\n\nI read Fisher & Paykel is great & one of the 4 different repair guys that came here said that F&P has the bugs worked out of their products since they have been around so long... BUT I read some bad reviews on-line & am leery now... I need a machine w/out an agitator (we have a history of our clothes being ripped apart by our washer w/an agitator, so I am not even willing to risk it again.... also a Whirlpool... hmmm?!?!?  We went w/WP again though because we figured that w/out an agitator we would be fine... yeah, nice try.).\n\nAnyway, if you try a Cabrio I hope it works... chances are it won't, but I also like to try things for myself sometimes ;0).  Does anybody else have the F1 error???  Is that the updated code for the F51 error since my LCD screen can't even display 3 numbers and/or letters?!?!?", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4153, "id": 56224, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 664, "len_tokens": 787, "text": "I bought this LintEater kit plus a competitor's kit (everbilt) to use as an extension if needed, since my duct is 24` long and the other kit was the same price as the extension. I ended up not using the other kit at all and will be keeping this one as this kit is superior in every way:\n* the rods are much more flexible, yet just as strong than the other kit.\n* the brush on this kit is better designed in my opinion. It has tufts of bristles arranged in a spiral pattern, with plenty of space for chunks of lint to blow past the brush. The other kits' brushes are arranged in rows, but with even gaps between bristles, so I believe they are more likely to shovel lint in front of the brush if you are pushing the brush upwind. For light lint loads the other brush may be better for \"polishing\" your ducts, but if the job gets tough, the LintEater should be better.\n* My favorite accessory: the vacuum hose adapter. I duct taped a vacuum hose to my leaf blower, attached the other end of vacuum hose to this adapter, threaded the rod (with brush attached) through the small port provided in the adapter, then plugged the adapter into my vent after feeding the brush into the vent. I was then able to brush the first 12' of duct from inside the house, with air from the leaf blower pushing the lint out of the other end of the vent. Then I removed the brush, plugged the small port with a provided plug, and plugged the adapter back in the vent. From the outside of the house I was able to clean the outside 12' of duct, with lint blowing out the vent towards me. A little messy but not bad. If I used a 12' extension, I could have done the whole job from the inside, but this worked almost as well.\n* there are two small set-screws plus an allen wrench provided; one is used to lock the brush in place on the rod to avoid a disaster in case you accidentally spin the rod counter-clockwise.\n* there is a metal clog ripper that I didn't need to use, in case you have a nasty clog of lint to remove that is too tough to dig through with the brush.\n* there a smaller diameter brush that looks useful for brushing out ducting within the dryer. This brush attaches to the same rods.\n* I have no idea what the \"french fry cutter\" is for unless it is to collect all the big pieces of lint at the outlet so you can watch them all come out at once? Not sure why you would want to do that. Or maybe it helps prevent you from running your brush into your dryer if you are running your dryer to blow lint outside and brushing from the outside in. I should have read the directions.\n\nI did use duct tape on each of the joints as I fed the brush in, as it doesn't take much counter-clockwise torque to start unscrewing things. I would not run this counter-clockwise on purpose; it won't take long for the duct tape to come loose and then you will have fun getting everything out of the duct.\n\nI found that these rods could screw into the everbilt rods, but the everbilt rods could not screw into these rods. If I remember right, the everbilt rods would not fit the LintEater brush, so I would have had to use the everbilt brush if I wanted to combine the two kits to get a 24' length. I decided it wasn't worth it. If I really wanted 24', I would buy the LintEater extension (I am returning the everbilt kit to HD).\n\nWhen I bought it, this kit was the same price as the other kits, but it is definitely worth paying more.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4154, "id": 56657, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4155, "id": 56837, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 624, "len_tokens": 750, "text": "IMPORTANT - Follow the directions and remember... CLOCKWISE CLOCKWISE CLOCKWISE! You'll understand when you see it. Our home is 20 years old, and we've lived in it for 16 of those 20 years. We have never cleaned the dryer ducts, and we're certain the previous owners would've had no need to do so. Our washer went out a week ago and so we decided to replace the dryer as well. The dryer had never been moved in 16 years and when I went to unhook it, I was amazed that the connecting pipe was almost completely clogged with lint! We clean our dryer lint collector every time we use it, so it got me to thinking - If there's this much lint in the connecting pipe..... how much lint is in the main pipe that I can't see????? So.... in anticipation of getting a new washer and dryer set, I decided to look into ways of checking into this, and came across this product.\n\nOur vent pipe is 30 feet long, and a 90 degree bend 2/3 the way down! Well... that's where this AWESOME TOOL comes in! I was a bit nervous about it until I got it. This thing is made very well, and I had no issues with it at all. I followed the directions and MADE SURE that I - 1. Duct taped the joints 2. Made sure my drill was set to CLOCKWISE 3. Went slow and steady and didn't force anything. The directions are VERY important cause if you do not follow them, you could find yourself in trouble. I recommend that you have a 10 gallon shop vac with the 2\" hose to help you with this job! The vac will help in declogging the pipe by sucking the lint as you loosen it. I could NOT BELIEVE how much lint came out of our pipes! I had to unclog the vac hose like 4 times because there was so much volume! Amazing to think that there was so much lint that it clogged up my 10 gallon pro shop vac 4 times!!! The MAIN THING is to GO SLOW! There's no need to put your drill on high. If you don't have a variable speed drill - I recommend you get one. You may get yourself into trouble if your drill only runs in super fast mode because should you run into a snag, you could break the rods inside your duct! Can you imagine that? Therefore... have the right tools for the job, and follow the directions to the letter, cause you don't want that to happen.\n\nDue to our 30 foot run, I bought 2 kits rather than buy the extention set because to me, for a few bucks more, why not have extra brushes etc too? The tool assembles with ease and I LOVED the shop vac attachment tool it came with. It made this job sooooooo much easier.\n\nBottom Line -  I love this tool! It did exactly what I wanted it to do, and it did it with ease, and sure beat paying someone to do it. I was completely done in about 1/2 hr, for a 30 foot pipe, and I have more airflow from our dryer than ever before! Take a look at some of the pics some people have posted with their lint because this is exactly what I experienced. I removed approx. 2 pounds of lint which is a considerable amount when you think about it. Our pipes are clean, and I can relax in the knowledge that we've increased the life of our new dryer exponentially, and removed the risk for a duct fire. Totally worth every cent to buy this tool in my book ;)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4156, "id": 57531, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 632, "len_tokens": 775, "text": "Outstanding, well made product.  I have a 15 ft. dryer exhaust duct made of heavy foil \"accordian\".  It's a straight run from the dryer wall to the outside of the house at near ground level except for a 90 deg \"S\" bend where the duct enters the wall and continues below the floor next to the basement ceiling\n\nSince the total length of the rods is 12 feet, I had to clean the duct from both the outside and inside.  After reading all the options in the user manual I concluded that the most efficient cleaning method was the following general procedure.  I ran the brush through the duct from the outside (while keeping the dryer connected to the duct) and then turned on the dryer on the unheated air flow setting to blow out the debris through the louvered outside vent that the brush did not extract.  Then I disconnected the duct from the dryer to the wall and ran the brush through the duct from the inside...being careful to allow the flexible line to let the brush negotiate the two 90 deg bends.  I reconnected the dryer to the duct and again turned it on air flow to blow the debris out the outside louvered vent that the brush didn't remove.\n\nDETAILS: When cleaning from the outside, I attached the brush to one 3-ft. rod and attached it to my drill.  It's best to have a two speed drill (set at the low speed) or a variable speed drill.  The outside vent is plastic with three flexible louvers which are easy to remove.  I inserted the brush into the end of the duct, turned it on, slowly worked the brush into the duct the full length of the rod, and slowly withdrew the rotating brush (and watched all the debris being pulled out).  I did that three times. I then turned on the dryer (unheated air flow) to \"clear\" the duct.  After that I rotated the brush again into the duct to near the end of the rod, disconnected it from the drill, attached the second rod and repeated the process.  I reinserted the brush to near the end of the second rod, disconnected it from the drill, attached the third rod and repeated the process....etc... until I had all four rods (12 ft.) attached.  When I finished cleaning from the outside, I cleaned the duct from the inside, but I just needed to use one 3-ft. rod. to ensure the entire 15 ft run was cleaned.  Of course, don't forget to clean out the duct that connects to the  dryer.  I also opened the back of the dryer and cleaned the inside.  The debris sitting on the grass below the louvered vent was easily cleaned with a house vac using the suction tool.\n\nBe patient, read the instructions and pay close attention to what it says about connecting and securing the rod sections.  Also, wear a good quality dust mask and hat.  If you have a long duct like mine, don't connect all four rods at once and then try to insert the brush and run the drill from 12 feet away -- it'll be too unwieldy.  Simply start with one 3-ft rod and add the additional ones to the rods that are inserted in the duct and protruding from the opening as described above and continue rotating the brush.  Push the brush in slowly and let it do the work; don't force it.  If you apply a little common sense it's really very simple.  But the whole cleaning process will take a long time, especially if you have to also clean from the inside which requires moving the dryer, disconnecting the duct and other contortions...so be patient.  It's a well-made, effective tool that really does the job.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4157, "id": 57782, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 670, "len_tokens": 793, "text": "This is a great dryer vent pipe cleaning system!\n\nOur dryer is in the middle of the second floor of the house, so there's a 24-foot pipe from the wall behind the dryer up into the ceiling and across the attic beams to the outdoor vent.  Hasn't been cleaned since buying the house brand new in late 2005!  Not being a fan of paying strangers to come into my home, I bought the LintEater 10-piece kit and a 12-foot extension rod pack.  The \"chore\" of cleaning the dryer vent pipe turned out to be a real joy because of this inexpensive and very effective tool!\n\nAssembly is simple - screw the brush into the end of one of the flexible rods.  A little set screw and allen wrench are provided to ensure the brush stays on.\n\nTurn your dryer on to the AIR Dry setting to blow unheated air out the vent pipe.  Go outdoors with your cordless drill set to turn forward/clockwise, attach the rod/brush assembly to the drill and rotate the brush/rod while pulling it in and out of the dryer vent pipe.  When lint stops blowing out - (You won't believe the clumps and quantity of lint this thing dislodges!) - screw another length of rod onto the end of the first rod, insert its end into the drill, make sure the drill will turn clockwise, and spin the lengthened assembly in and out of the dryer vent.  Repeat until all rods have been attached and lint stops blowing from the dryer vent as you pull the spinning brush assembly fully back out of the vent.\n\nThe ONLY thing one must remember in this extremely easy task is to always run the drill in forward/clockwise rotation because the rods will want to unscrew from one another if the drill is accidentally run in reverse. The instructions do offer the idea of putting duct tape around the rod connections after screwing them together to prevent disconnection inside the dryer vent pipe if you forget to only turn the drill in the clockwise direction.\n\nAs a do-it-yourself kind of guy, I'm willing to buy a tool if it can give me the ability to do a job myself whenever it's convenient for me rather than having to schedule some stranger to do something for me.  Rarely, however, does one find such an inexpensive and thorough tool as this!  This $40 kit (including the extra pack of extension rods I needed) made the job of cleaning my dryer vent pipe very satisfying and even fun!  It stores easily behind the dryer until the next time I'll need it.  (The instructions recommend cleaning the vent pipe every few months.)  The whole job only took half an hour from start to finish - including getting the ladder out of the garage and set up.  There is simply no reason to pay a contractor to do this easy task nor to forego keeping one's dryer vent clear of accumulated lint and the associated fire hazard that it creates.\n\n  When ordering, measure how far your dryer is from the outside wall of your house where the dryer air is vented and add the vertical distance from the air outlet on the back of the dryer to the ceiling so that you know how many flexible rods you'll need in order to clean the whole thing from the outside.  If disconnecting the dryer from the wall pipe is convenient, one could even clean the pipe from the inside outward or from both ends.\n\nMy experience with the LintEater is unquestionably rated 5 stars. I would heartily recommend it to a friend.  It's inexpensive, easy to assemble and use, fast, does a thorough job, is almost impossible to goof up and small to store for future uses.  I will not go 6 years without cleaning my dryer vent again now that I have this kit on hand and will happily take it to friend's houses to share the benefits of a clean dryer vent with them.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4158, "id": 59972, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 593, "len_tokens": 725, "text": "I have owned this unit for 1 1/2 years so far, and it has operated very well.  It uses about 1/2 kwh per day or 180 to 240 kwh per year depending on the temp in the building.  The unit is clean, not too loud and does its job.  HOWEVER, after 1 1/2 years the relay starter switch went out.  This is caused by arcing from each time it is fired up.  When this happened I panicked and thought I would lose all my frozen foods and have to go buy a new freezer, BUT a little homework on youtube and thought came up with a quick solution to the problem.  I removed the transfer switch from  the compressor which is shown in the picture.  Don't forget to unplug the freezer first!!  To help you find the switch you have to remove a little cover over it on the left side of the compressor.  Don't take off the overload protector that has one black wire going into it that is above the relay and that occupies the top prong of three that come out of the compressor.  Make sure you make note of the colors of the wires or take a picture of the wires as they are placed on the relay switch.  You don't have to undo the ground wire that looks like it is in the way.  It is not.  You can just use a flat blade screwdriver to ease off the relay switch.  Then use the same screwdriver to nudge the wiring connectors off the pins on the relay switch.  You will find a part number on the relay switch.  I ordered one on Amazon for $10 that had a number that was pretty close and that a reviewer said he had used on a similar freezer.  It worked, but then I saw on a youtube video that there is a little disk inside the relay switch that does the work.  I carefully opened up the relay switch and pushed the blade connectors out of it from the back which freed up the little disk.  There was scoring on the disk and one of the blades.  I scraped and sanded off the black ash and then reinserted the blades into the housing.  I used a small screwdriver to slightly bend the contacts where they would make good contact with the disk instead of being loose.  Now the critical part is that I removed and LIGHTLY sanded the crud off the disk and reinserted it where it made contact with a part of the disk that still had the contact metal whereas the scored area had none.  I think this could be done several times to be able to use the disk again, OR this will buy you time while you wait for a new part.  The part I ordered on Amazaon was Ministry of Warehouse QP2-4.7 New 3 Pin Start Device Relay Starter Danby Magic Chef Kenmore Refrigerator aftermarket; PMN4534TG48 3464YHRE323299.  This unit I believe is manufactured in Ontario, Canada.  Hope this saves you some time and money.  I would give the unit 5 stars, but good luck searching for parts, and a repairman would cost a fortune most likely and you can lose food waiting so this is good to know if you don't mind rehabilitating the unit on your own and have 30 minutes to do the job.  Of course, it could be some other problem with your unit, but I suspect this is bound to happen to most of them due to the nature of the part.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4159, "id": 61395, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 588, "len_tokens": 728, "text": "We installed this range when we remodeled our kitchen 2 1/2 years ago and have used it extensively since then, and have come to love it.  Here is what we've learned about it: You better have a GOOD technician to set it up properly and CAREFULLY adjust everything so that all the burners work correctly. BUT once set correctly, all burners have kept their adjustments and we've had no problems.  We have the model with gas burners on top, gas main oven and electric bottom oven.\n\nThere is some kind of a vent fan that comes on in the oven at around 375 degrees, or above, and stays on until the oven cools back down, and it blows hot air out the slots at the BACK of the top.  This hot air is hot enough that it cracked the grout between the metallic ceramic tiles of our backsplash and we had to replace the grout with colored silicone.  But the original grout job wasn't done right, and the silicone looks better anyway, soooo, no problem.  However, my wife used to be annoyed by the noise of the fan, but she's gotten used to it.  It isn't loud enough that it ever bothered me, but it is noticeable.\n\nWe've seen in some reviews where folks complained about the noise of the fan when cooking in convection mode.  The convection fan is much quieter than the vent fan mentioned in the previous paragraph. In fact, it's almost inaudible, BUT we don't use the convection mode when baking above 375 degrees, so I don't know if the convection fan gets louder above 375.  BTW, the Convection Roast with Probe is a fantastic way of cooking meats.  It has always turned out perfect, without fail, but we've been careful to get the probe properly inserted into the meat.\n\nWe've seen complaints in reviews about the front knobs and panel getting hot while using the oven.  We've NOT had that problem at all, ever.  I believe there must be a setup problem with the ranges that are having that problem.  I also wonder if that's a problem with the electric main ovens and not the gas ovens.\n\nThe bottom oven has a 120 volt element in it rather than the 240 volt elements that normal electric ovens have, but it still cooks perfectly, HOWEVER, you have to allow for a little extra time for pre-heat, but it's not a huge amount of extra time since the bottom oven is not as large as the top one.\n\nWhen you go to cook pancakes on the griddle, because of the mass of the griddle, you have to allow it plenty of time to get good and hot.  I drop a couple droplets of water on it and don't put the batter on it until the droplets sizzle good.  You have to keep the burner wide open on high the entire time you're using the griddle to cook effectively.  But it DOES cook well, once it's hot and kept hot.\n\nWe really like the heat ranges of the burners.  The power burners heat and bring things to a boil quickly, but turn down to simmer very nicely.  The simmer burner on the back right is terrific for warming and slow cooking.\n\nAll in all, we love this range.  The owner's manual could be more clearly written, but the info in it is correct, unlike the one for the last gas range we owned before this one.  We highly recommend this range and would buy it again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4160, "id": 61684, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 467, "len_tokens": 777, "text": "When I was fighting a humidity issue in my workshop, I realized I couldn't solve it without monitoring results - and picked up a&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/SensorPush-Wireless-Hygrometer-with-Alerts/dp/B01AEQ9X9I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">SensorPush Wireless Hygrometer with Alerts</a>&nbsp;for that purpose.\n\nIt quickly became apparent that, although the SensorPush is awesome, I wanted to be able to see the humidity at a glance when I'm out there - so I also picked up a&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/ThermoPro-TP55-Digital-Hygrometer/dp/B06XTPTG1J/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">ThermoPro TP55 Digital Hygrometer</a>&nbsp;that I could just stick to my gun safe using magnets.\n\nIf I hadn't been using the SensorPush, I probably would have been happy with the ThermoPro - but I did have a couple of issues with it:\n\n1) The humidity level didn't match the levels from the SensorPush - which was driving me nuts.\n\n2) Even when the SensorPush reported wide swings in relative humidity, the ThermoPro seemed to stay stuck.  It was always reporting 48-52%, even though the SensorPush reported a far larger range.\n\nAfter a couple of weeks, I came back to Amazon and picked up the AcuRite 01080 Hygrometer - which turned out to be an excellent decision.\n\n1) The readings on the AcuRite are FAR faster, so it reports the same swings as the SensorPush.\n\n2) The AcuRite supports calibration (which I did using a&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Boveda-One-Step-Calibration-Kit/dp/B000A3UBLA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Boveda One-Step Calibration Kit</a>).  It's a little hard to calibrate the Acurite inside the Boveda bag; but, only took a few minutes using the button map from the instruction pages.  (The problem is you can't see the buttons - you have to feel for them.)\n\nIt's interesting that the AcuRite was off by almost 5% out of the box - but now it matches the SensorPush (which is also calibrated) perfectly.\n\nAfter reading reviews, I almost didn't buy the AcuRite because of complaints about the display contrast and size.  Personally, I don't see the issues at all - it seems plenty big for my purposes; and, although the contrast definitely isn't as good as the sticker that comes on it - it isn't bad either.  The contrast is pretty much comparable to any other digital display.\n\nIf you're comparing the AcuRite vs the ThermoPro, the ThermoPro has an easy-to use touchscreen and backlighting, while the AcuRite seems to focus more on being a good hygrometer.\n\nIf you're going to be constantly switching back and forth between Celsius and Fahrenheit, or want a backlight, then consider the ThermoPro - otherwise just grab the AcuRite, it really is an excellent unit.\n\n[*** Update 12/12/2017 ***]\n\nThis has worked so well that I ended up getting another one to track the humidity by my main gun safe.  After letting it settle for about 8 hours and calibrating it - it works just as well as the first and tracks the other sensors perfectly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4161, "id": 63716, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 591, "len_tokens": 750, "text": "I have been using my washer for almost 7 months.  This is the precise model that I have, except mine is black.  I have not had the problems others seem to have.  It has only had an unbalanced load (UL) three times in that period, and each time, adjusting the clothes solved the problem.  Below is the review I originally wrote for the machine, updated by these comments.  It is still relevant in my case.\n\nI will agree unconditionally that Whirlpool's customer service is CRAPPY.  I tried contacting them several times (email and phone) for a part that I couldn't find for the matching dryer (to convert it from natural gas to LP gas) and NEVER got a response.\n\n************************\n\nNovember 10, 2006\n\nThis little wonder is as wonderful as Whirlpool (\"WP\") keeps insisting.\n\nNow let me first say that every washing machine I have ever owned has been a WP - so there is some loyalty there. But bias aside, this machine delivers.\n\nThe 'space age' console that lit up like a Christmas tree was impressive enough, but WP added ease of operation. Use the pre-set wash cycles (turn the knob) or modify each to your liking (press the up and down buttons at each selection) - poetry in motion. One CAVEAT - I have not yet tried to programme a delayed wash, so I don't know how easy that is. The instructions in the manual seemed simple enough though.\n\nLARGE TUB: The stainless steel tub is deceptively large. When I first looked in I noted the absence of the agitator but still I thought it wasn't as large as had been advertised. Then I put in what was in my old machine a \"medium\" load. My medium load became an extra small. What joy!\n\nWATER SAVING: They do not lie! No more clothes swimming (pun) in water. This washer 'measures/weighs' the clothing (ain't technology wonderful?) and adds just enough water to the clothes to clean them. I was counting the savings (and apparently saving a tree in the Amazon) as I sat in fascination and watched my clothes wash. (Love the see through lid by the way).\n\nCLEANING RESULTS: Clean the clothes it did. My whites were clean and fresh.\n\nLOTS OF CYCLES: To suit every need. The BULKY ITEMS cycle is a gem.\n\nLID LOCK: The lid locks as soon as you press the Start button. You can pause during any cycle by pressing the Pause/Cancel button once (twice will cancel the wash), then pressing Start to continue.\n\nFEATURES: Too many to adequately expound on here. I love the THREE DISPENSERS - detergent (only high efficiency liquid or powder), liquid bleach and fabric softener. The end-of-cycle ALERT is indispensable and can be turned off, soft or loud. The machine is QUIET. Capital QUIET. Amazingly QUIET! (which is why you really need the end-of-cycle alert). The DRAIN AND SPIN cycle is great for those times when you start a wash and can't finish. The CLEAN MACHINE cycle - also a keeper.\n\nThe machine has a pleasing design and despite greater capacity and features, seems to take up less floor space than my older model washer.\n\nI personally suggest using a surge suppressor with this washer simply because so many of the features are computerised and it is a large investment (would be a shame to watch it go down in flames).\n\nI haven't had it long enough to comment on energy savings, but for every other reason cited above (and more), I fully recommend this washer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4162, "id": 63743, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 530, "len_tokens": 721, "text": "<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-Duet-Series-WFW9400SW-27-Duet-Front-Load-Washer-with-4-0-cu-ft-Capacity-14-Wash-Cycles-1200-RPM-Speed-White/dp/B000N5KPAC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool Duet Series WFW9400SW 27\" Duet Front-Load Washer with 4.0 cu. ft. Capacity, 14 Wash Cycles & 1200 RPM Speed: White</a>\n\n  I have had my new Whirlpool Duet pair for about 1 1/2 weeks now. I am completely in love. I had a Kenmore top load washer and dryer for almost 10 years. I was happy with how my clothes came out and I never really understood when people had complaints about their washers not cleaning clothes well or wearing out their clothes so quickly. I now understand. I washed a load of whites in the front loader. Not doing anything different than what the washer's manual suggests doing (I also followed manufacturer's suggestion on old machine) and I can not believe the difference. I took a white sock from the load out of the new machine and one out of my drawer that had been washed using the old machine. My 12 yr old, 9 yr old, and 4 yr old all noticed the difference without me telling them which came from the new machine. My husband even noticed. They all thought that the old machine sock was actually dirty. Needless to say, I have been slowly rewashing all of the clothes that supposedly were already clean from my old machine.\n\n  Now, I read a lot of reviews about the Whirlpool front loads. Some were very discouraging. I was a little nervous making the purchase with some of the information that is out there, however, I am glad to report I have not had any of the issues. One thing that I did read about in the manual is that you have to use HE laundry detergent or your front load machine will suds too much. This will lead to mildew smell or mold inside the drum. Our sales guy told us it would be the equivalent to putting hand dish soap in your dishwasher. The manual also says that you need to leave the door open after you complete laundry so that the washer drum can fully dry. The reason is that the front loads have an airtight seal that will not let air in to dry, thus causing mildew and mold. There were also complaints about the vibration when the unit is spinning. We had the machine installed by the store we bought the units from. Unfortunately, when my husband came home and I told him that they did not seem as sturdy as I would like, he found that they did not tighten the locking bolts after they \"leveled\" it. However, it was not leveled properly either. Becuase of this, as the machine spun the clothes, it wiggled even more unlevel which made a horrible vibration noise. Now that my husband leveled it and locked the locking bolts, we have had no problems.\n\nI think the best part of the machine is that it sprays water into the soap, softner, bleach trays to completely get out the soap. It makes it nice not having to clean out the tray each time so build up doesn't happen! I feel that if anyone gets the unit you will not regret it! Good luck shopping!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4163, "id": 63752, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 620, "len_tokens": 790, "text": "I am happy for those of you who have not had problems w/this machine!  HOWEVER, you seem to be much fewer than those of us who have had issues w/this machine... 2 weeks after we purchased this machine things started to go bad, but I was in denial because I wanted to LOVE this machine so desperately!  It was SUPPOSED to be our dream machine, but turned out to be our laundry nightmare!!!\n\nIt all started w/an LD error... okay, that means \"long drain\" check for a kink in the hose, not enough of the drain hose in the wall drain, blah, blah, blah... a repair man came here & told me it is because of too much soap & taking too long to drain.  I had done my research BEFORE we bought this machine because I was so determined to make it work, that I wanted to make sure I used it right.  Showed the repairman my HE bottle of WHIRLPOOL endorsed detergent, & told him I was using about 2 tsp (if that) of soap for a FULL load... told him I kept checking to see how many suds there were to make sure there was enough, but not too much soap.  He told me to add a bucket of water to the machine if the LD error came up again & to use LESS soap... I smiled & said OKAY, but was thinking that he STILL thinks I am using too much soap... whatever!!!  NOT the case... I know to check the rinse cycle to check for any soap residue & there was NONE.  I also asked him if there was too much detergent, then WHY DIDN'T I get the sud error message, hmmm?!?!?\n\nOf course, the LD error came up again & again & again.  Adding water did nothing, nor did cancelling the load & starting over... I had to unplug it & let it sit EMPTY overnight before it would work again.  Not very productive, let me tell you!  I humored the repairman & even tried less detergent AND same thing!!! had I used any less detergent, I would have been washing my clothes w/water!!!!\n\nThen the whole ridiculous F1 error came up... UGGHHH!!!  WHAT IS THAT???  According to Whirlpool it is an \"electrical\" issue... the repairmen came here 4 MORE times & guess what, IT STILL DOES NOT WORK!!!!  I have had a new control board (brain), things taken apart & cleaned, etc.  GIVE ME A BREAK!!!!\n\nI am seriously FED UP, & so is my hubby.  He is determined he is going to peorsonally take this machine back to Sears & tell them to eat their return policy... I hope it works... not sure what machine to get next, assuming Sears takes this hunk of junk back?!?!?\n\nI read Fisher & Paykel is great & one of the 4 different repair guys that came here said that F&P has the bugs worked out of their products since they have been around so long... BUT I read some bad reviews on-line & am leery now... I need a machine w/out an agitator (we have a history of our clothes being ripped apart by our washer w/an agitator, so I am not even willing to risk it again.... also a Whirlpool... hmmm?!?!?  We went w/WP again though because we figured that w/out an agitator we would be fine... yeah, nice try.).\n\nAnyway, if you try a Cabrio I hope it works... chances are it won't, but I also like to try things for myself sometimes ;0).  Does anybody else have the F1 error???  Is that the updated code for the F51 error since my LCD screen can't even display 3 numbers and/or letters?!?!?", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4164, "id": 65090, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 664, "len_tokens": 787, "text": "I bought this LintEater kit plus a competitor's kit (everbilt) to use as an extension if needed, since my duct is 24` long and the other kit was the same price as the extension. I ended up not using the other kit at all and will be keeping this one as this kit is superior in every way:\n* the rods are much more flexible, yet just as strong than the other kit.\n* the brush on this kit is better designed in my opinion. It has tufts of bristles arranged in a spiral pattern, with plenty of space for chunks of lint to blow past the brush. The other kits' brushes are arranged in rows, but with even gaps between bristles, so I believe they are more likely to shovel lint in front of the brush if you are pushing the brush upwind. For light lint loads the other brush may be better for \"polishing\" your ducts, but if the job gets tough, the LintEater should be better.\n* My favorite accessory: the vacuum hose adapter. I duct taped a vacuum hose to my leaf blower, attached the other end of vacuum hose to this adapter, threaded the rod (with brush attached) through the small port provided in the adapter, then plugged the adapter into my vent after feeding the brush into the vent. I was then able to brush the first 12' of duct from inside the house, with air from the leaf blower pushing the lint out of the other end of the vent. Then I removed the brush, plugged the small port with a provided plug, and plugged the adapter back in the vent. From the outside of the house I was able to clean the outside 12' of duct, with lint blowing out the vent towards me. A little messy but not bad. If I used a 12' extension, I could have done the whole job from the inside, but this worked almost as well.\n* there are two small set-screws plus an allen wrench provided; one is used to lock the brush in place on the rod to avoid a disaster in case you accidentally spin the rod counter-clockwise.\n* there is a metal clog ripper that I didn't need to use, in case you have a nasty clog of lint to remove that is too tough to dig through with the brush.\n* there a smaller diameter brush that looks useful for brushing out ducting within the dryer. This brush attaches to the same rods.\n* I have no idea what the \"french fry cutter\" is for unless it is to collect all the big pieces of lint at the outlet so you can watch them all come out at once? Not sure why you would want to do that. Or maybe it helps prevent you from running your brush into your dryer if you are running your dryer to blow lint outside and brushing from the outside in. I should have read the directions.\n\nI did use duct tape on each of the joints as I fed the brush in, as it doesn't take much counter-clockwise torque to start unscrewing things. I would not run this counter-clockwise on purpose; it won't take long for the duct tape to come loose and then you will have fun getting everything out of the duct.\n\nI found that these rods could screw into the everbilt rods, but the everbilt rods could not screw into these rods. If I remember right, the everbilt rods would not fit the LintEater brush, so I would have had to use the everbilt brush if I wanted to combine the two kits to get a 24' length. I decided it wasn't worth it. If I really wanted 24', I would buy the LintEater extension (I am returning the everbilt kit to HD).\n\nWhen I bought it, this kit was the same price as the other kits, but it is definitely worth paying more.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4165, "id": 65523, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4166, "id": 65703, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 624, "len_tokens": 750, "text": "IMPORTANT - Follow the directions and remember... CLOCKWISE CLOCKWISE CLOCKWISE! You'll understand when you see it. Our home is 20 years old, and we've lived in it for 16 of those 20 years. We have never cleaned the dryer ducts, and we're certain the previous owners would've had no need to do so. Our washer went out a week ago and so we decided to replace the dryer as well. The dryer had never been moved in 16 years and when I went to unhook it, I was amazed that the connecting pipe was almost completely clogged with lint! We clean our dryer lint collector every time we use it, so it got me to thinking - If there's this much lint in the connecting pipe..... how much lint is in the main pipe that I can't see????? So.... in anticipation of getting a new washer and dryer set, I decided to look into ways of checking into this, and came across this product.\n\nOur vent pipe is 30 feet long, and a 90 degree bend 2/3 the way down! Well... that's where this AWESOME TOOL comes in! I was a bit nervous about it until I got it. This thing is made very well, and I had no issues with it at all. I followed the directions and MADE SURE that I - 1. Duct taped the joints 2. Made sure my drill was set to CLOCKWISE 3. Went slow and steady and didn't force anything. The directions are VERY important cause if you do not follow them, you could find yourself in trouble. I recommend that you have a 10 gallon shop vac with the 2\" hose to help you with this job! The vac will help in declogging the pipe by sucking the lint as you loosen it. I could NOT BELIEVE how much lint came out of our pipes! I had to unclog the vac hose like 4 times because there was so much volume! Amazing to think that there was so much lint that it clogged up my 10 gallon pro shop vac 4 times!!! The MAIN THING is to GO SLOW! There's no need to put your drill on high. If you don't have a variable speed drill - I recommend you get one. You may get yourself into trouble if your drill only runs in super fast mode because should you run into a snag, you could break the rods inside your duct! Can you imagine that? Therefore... have the right tools for the job, and follow the directions to the letter, cause you don't want that to happen.\n\nDue to our 30 foot run, I bought 2 kits rather than buy the extention set because to me, for a few bucks more, why not have extra brushes etc too? The tool assembles with ease and I LOVED the shop vac attachment tool it came with. It made this job sooooooo much easier.\n\nBottom Line -  I love this tool! It did exactly what I wanted it to do, and it did it with ease, and sure beat paying someone to do it. I was completely done in about 1/2 hr, for a 30 foot pipe, and I have more airflow from our dryer than ever before! Take a look at some of the pics some people have posted with their lint because this is exactly what I experienced. I removed approx. 2 pounds of lint which is a considerable amount when you think about it. Our pipes are clean, and I can relax in the knowledge that we've increased the life of our new dryer exponentially, and removed the risk for a duct fire. Totally worth every cent to buy this tool in my book ;)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4167, "id": 66397, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 632, "len_tokens": 775, "text": "Outstanding, well made product.  I have a 15 ft. dryer exhaust duct made of heavy foil \"accordian\".  It's a straight run from the dryer wall to the outside of the house at near ground level except for a 90 deg \"S\" bend where the duct enters the wall and continues below the floor next to the basement ceiling\n\nSince the total length of the rods is 12 feet, I had to clean the duct from both the outside and inside.  After reading all the options in the user manual I concluded that the most efficient cleaning method was the following general procedure.  I ran the brush through the duct from the outside (while keeping the dryer connected to the duct) and then turned on the dryer on the unheated air flow setting to blow out the debris through the louvered outside vent that the brush did not extract.  Then I disconnected the duct from the dryer to the wall and ran the brush through the duct from the inside...being careful to allow the flexible line to let the brush negotiate the two 90 deg bends.  I reconnected the dryer to the duct and again turned it on air flow to blow the debris out the outside louvered vent that the brush didn't remove.\n\nDETAILS: When cleaning from the outside, I attached the brush to one 3-ft. rod and attached it to my drill.  It's best to have a two speed drill (set at the low speed) or a variable speed drill.  The outside vent is plastic with three flexible louvers which are easy to remove.  I inserted the brush into the end of the duct, turned it on, slowly worked the brush into the duct the full length of the rod, and slowly withdrew the rotating brush (and watched all the debris being pulled out).  I did that three times. I then turned on the dryer (unheated air flow) to \"clear\" the duct.  After that I rotated the brush again into the duct to near the end of the rod, disconnected it from the drill, attached the second rod and repeated the process.  I reinserted the brush to near the end of the second rod, disconnected it from the drill, attached the third rod and repeated the process....etc... until I had all four rods (12 ft.) attached.  When I finished cleaning from the outside, I cleaned the duct from the inside, but I just needed to use one 3-ft. rod. to ensure the entire 15 ft run was cleaned.  Of course, don't forget to clean out the duct that connects to the  dryer.  I also opened the back of the dryer and cleaned the inside.  The debris sitting on the grass below the louvered vent was easily cleaned with a house vac using the suction tool.\n\nBe patient, read the instructions and pay close attention to what it says about connecting and securing the rod sections.  Also, wear a good quality dust mask and hat.  If you have a long duct like mine, don't connect all four rods at once and then try to insert the brush and run the drill from 12 feet away -- it'll be too unwieldy.  Simply start with one 3-ft rod and add the additional ones to the rods that are inserted in the duct and protruding from the opening as described above and continue rotating the brush.  Push the brush in slowly and let it do the work; don't force it.  If you apply a little common sense it's really very simple.  But the whole cleaning process will take a long time, especially if you have to also clean from the inside which requires moving the dryer, disconnecting the duct and other contortions...so be patient.  It's a well-made, effective tool that really does the job.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4168, "id": 66648, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 670, "len_tokens": 793, "text": "This is a great dryer vent pipe cleaning system!\n\nOur dryer is in the middle of the second floor of the house, so there's a 24-foot pipe from the wall behind the dryer up into the ceiling and across the attic beams to the outdoor vent.  Hasn't been cleaned since buying the house brand new in late 2005!  Not being a fan of paying strangers to come into my home, I bought the LintEater 10-piece kit and a 12-foot extension rod pack.  The \"chore\" of cleaning the dryer vent pipe turned out to be a real joy because of this inexpensive and very effective tool!\n\nAssembly is simple - screw the brush into the end of one of the flexible rods.  A little set screw and allen wrench are provided to ensure the brush stays on.\n\nTurn your dryer on to the AIR Dry setting to blow unheated air out the vent pipe.  Go outdoors with your cordless drill set to turn forward/clockwise, attach the rod/brush assembly to the drill and rotate the brush/rod while pulling it in and out of the dryer vent pipe.  When lint stops blowing out - (You won't believe the clumps and quantity of lint this thing dislodges!) - screw another length of rod onto the end of the first rod, insert its end into the drill, make sure the drill will turn clockwise, and spin the lengthened assembly in and out of the dryer vent.  Repeat until all rods have been attached and lint stops blowing from the dryer vent as you pull the spinning brush assembly fully back out of the vent.\n\nThe ONLY thing one must remember in this extremely easy task is to always run the drill in forward/clockwise rotation because the rods will want to unscrew from one another if the drill is accidentally run in reverse. The instructions do offer the idea of putting duct tape around the rod connections after screwing them together to prevent disconnection inside the dryer vent pipe if you forget to only turn the drill in the clockwise direction.\n\nAs a do-it-yourself kind of guy, I'm willing to buy a tool if it can give me the ability to do a job myself whenever it's convenient for me rather than having to schedule some stranger to do something for me.  Rarely, however, does one find such an inexpensive and thorough tool as this!  This $40 kit (including the extra pack of extension rods I needed) made the job of cleaning my dryer vent pipe very satisfying and even fun!  It stores easily behind the dryer until the next time I'll need it.  (The instructions recommend cleaning the vent pipe every few months.)  The whole job only took half an hour from start to finish - including getting the ladder out of the garage and set up.  There is simply no reason to pay a contractor to do this easy task nor to forego keeping one's dryer vent clear of accumulated lint and the associated fire hazard that it creates.\n\n  When ordering, measure how far your dryer is from the outside wall of your house where the dryer air is vented and add the vertical distance from the air outlet on the back of the dryer to the ceiling so that you know how many flexible rods you'll need in order to clean the whole thing from the outside.  If disconnecting the dryer from the wall pipe is convenient, one could even clean the pipe from the inside outward or from both ends.\n\nMy experience with the LintEater is unquestionably rated 5 stars. I would heartily recommend it to a friend.  It's inexpensive, easy to assemble and use, fast, does a thorough job, is almost impossible to goof up and small to store for future uses.  I will not go 6 years without cleaning my dryer vent again now that I have this kit on hand and will happily take it to friend's houses to share the benefits of a clean dryer vent with them.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4169, "id": 68838, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 593, "len_tokens": 725, "text": "I have owned this unit for 1 1/2 years so far, and it has operated very well.  It uses about 1/2 kwh per day or 180 to 240 kwh per year depending on the temp in the building.  The unit is clean, not too loud and does its job.  HOWEVER, after 1 1/2 years the relay starter switch went out.  This is caused by arcing from each time it is fired up.  When this happened I panicked and thought I would lose all my frozen foods and have to go buy a new freezer, BUT a little homework on youtube and thought came up with a quick solution to the problem.  I removed the transfer switch from  the compressor which is shown in the picture.  Don't forget to unplug the freezer first!!  To help you find the switch you have to remove a little cover over it on the left side of the compressor.  Don't take off the overload protector that has one black wire going into it that is above the relay and that occupies the top prong of three that come out of the compressor.  Make sure you make note of the colors of the wires or take a picture of the wires as they are placed on the relay switch.  You don't have to undo the ground wire that looks like it is in the way.  It is not.  You can just use a flat blade screwdriver to ease off the relay switch.  Then use the same screwdriver to nudge the wiring connectors off the pins on the relay switch.  You will find a part number on the relay switch.  I ordered one on Amazon for $10 that had a number that was pretty close and that a reviewer said he had used on a similar freezer.  It worked, but then I saw on a youtube video that there is a little disk inside the relay switch that does the work.  I carefully opened up the relay switch and pushed the blade connectors out of it from the back which freed up the little disk.  There was scoring on the disk and one of the blades.  I scraped and sanded off the black ash and then reinserted the blades into the housing.  I used a small screwdriver to slightly bend the contacts where they would make good contact with the disk instead of being loose.  Now the critical part is that I removed and LIGHTLY sanded the crud off the disk and reinserted it where it made contact with a part of the disk that still had the contact metal whereas the scored area had none.  I think this could be done several times to be able to use the disk again, OR this will buy you time while you wait for a new part.  The part I ordered on Amazaon was Ministry of Warehouse QP2-4.7 New 3 Pin Start Device Relay Starter Danby Magic Chef Kenmore Refrigerator aftermarket; PMN4534TG48 3464YHRE323299.  This unit I believe is manufactured in Ontario, Canada.  Hope this saves you some time and money.  I would give the unit 5 stars, but good luck searching for parts, and a repairman would cost a fortune most likely and you can lose food waiting so this is good to know if you don't mind rehabilitating the unit on your own and have 30 minutes to do the job.  Of course, it could be some other problem with your unit, but I suspect this is bound to happen to most of them due to the nature of the part.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4170, "id": 70855, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 523, "len_tokens": 721, "text": "My wife really liked this dishwasher for the first 12 months. The full warranty period was 1 year, then 2 years parts and the customer is responsible for the labor. A little over a year into the dishwasher and the drain hose had rotted, become brittle, and was leaking. Round and round with customer service and they finally send us a drain hose which I replace. This bought a few more months. At around 18 months, the dishwasher started leaking from the water inlet valve. After a long talk with LG's customer service they finally concede that the valve (that I can clearly seek leaking) is bad. Looks like a simple fix, so I kindly ask them to send us a new valve and I will replace it myself. No dice. LG insist on sending one of their certified repair men out this time(which is located 80 miles away) to replace the valve. After arguing over this for a while, I give up and tell them to \"have a nice day\". The repair man is going to be at least $100 and 4 to 5 days out. I had already looked the part I needed up on repair clinic and found that it cost around $30. So I buy the part, have it shipped, clean out the nasty water inlet meter (remember this part) and have our dishwasher up an running again in a snap. (Our 18 month old, $700 dishwasher that has ruined our floor by now with two leaks). Now a year later I get home and it is not working again. This time it has an OE error and an awful grinding noise when it does decide to run. If I pour water into the tub it drains water fine but only starts the wash cycle sporadically. Again, I remove the dishwasher (I skip calling LG because we are almost 3  years into this $700 POS and the last time they were no help), find that somehow that part of the food grinder has come in contact with the blade AND that the nasty grease trap, I mean water inlet meter, is clogged up again with grease and fowl smelling funk. This seams to be the reason for the bad odors coming from these dishwashers.  If you have this problem, remove the dishwasher, look on the left side of the dishwasher and there is a clear plastic part with two switches and a couple hoses coming from it. Remover this and clean it well. While you are at it remove spray arms, and filter assembly and clean all of this as well. After cleaning the funk out, and straightening the bent part on the grinder, my wife's lovely dishwasher is running again. Fingers crossed, this time it didn't cost us anything but a Saturday morning. IN short this dishwasher is Junk and I would not recommend to anyone. POINT IS THIS POS KEEPS BREAKING DOWN.  BUYER BEWARE AND READ THE REVIEWS!!!!<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/LG-LDF6920ST-Fully-Integrated-Dishwasher-with-5-Wash-Cycles-3-Spray-Arms-SenseClean-System-Delay-Start-Food-Disposer-and-Self-Clean-Filter-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0019R6ACA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">LG LDF6920ST Fully Integrated Dishwasher with 5 Wash Cycles, 3 Spray Arms, SenseClean System, Delay Start, Food Disposer and Self-Clean Filter: Stainless Steel</a>", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4171, "id": 70871, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 549, "len_tokens": 709, "text": "I bought this unit after a glowing recommendation from a salesperson at Home Depot.  She said that she owned a unit and loved it.  The finish and price seemed to suggest \"quality\" to me, so it seemed like a no-brainer and between that and Black Friday discounts, I ordered one. Did I do research?  Noooo.....  Well, buyer beware.\n\nAt first the unit seemed fine, it looked (and still does) great, and was *extremely* quiet, so I was happy.  But after no more than 10 cycles, it started making a very loud, high-pitched, continuous, otherworldly noise.  Like something from a Sci-Fi movie.  Think of the phasers on the original Star Trek from the 60s ... it sounded something like that.  Better yet, go to youtube and search on the model number.  You'll find several videos demonstrating the exact same noise.\n\nI called LG for service and I spoke to a very helpful, very polite service rep.  He didn't hesitate in issuing me a service ticket with a local independent repair company.  They got an email authorizing the service visit, and I called them and set the appointment for less than a week later.\n\nWhen the tech arrived and I described the symptom, he seemed to know of the problem, had addressed it before.  He'd evidently replaced a lot of motors on this unit.  But what he went for first, once he got the thing open, was the \"chopper blade\".  It's a roughly 2.5\" blade in the bottom of the unit under a cover.  The blade lies flat, parallel to the floor, and is sharpened on the leading edge, the better to chop up food particles before they go out with the wastewater.  According to him, \"they told us\" (I don't know if that means LG or his company or someone else) to first try removing the blade, turning it over, then reinstalling it to see if that cured the noise. In my case, this made 95% of the noise go away, so I am mostly satisfied with noise levels at that point.  However, with the blade turned over, the sharpened cutting edge is facing the wrong way, and the blade now depends solely on its speed of rotation (I think the tech said 3000rpm) to chop up the food.  In other words, to fix the problem, the functionality of the unit has to some extent been negatively affected.\n\nI mentioned to the tech that it seemed to clean my dishes just fine.  This seemed to make him slightly happier, as if \"not cleaning\" was a chronic complaint that he'd encountered and was happy not to have to deal with with my unit.  That was just my impression, he didn't say that.  He *did* say \"don't use it as a garbage disposal\".  I don't know if most people are in the habit of doing so, but he clearly approved of me rinsing dishes before putting them on the racks.\n\nIn summary, it's my impression that the unit has a design defect that is well-known but hasn't been fixed.  I'm not a dishwasher engineer, but I'd think that some simple modification to the chopper blade would rectify the problem and could be made available as a field-replaceable part.\n\nSo as they say on failblog, \"learn from my fail\" and do your homework!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4172, "id": 73699, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 634, "len_tokens": 798, "text": "In various homes, we have had ceramic, gas and ceramic with halogen. For us, this is the best we've ever had. Going back to non-induction will likely never happen.  We've used the Miele for two months now and believe we've seen both the good points and the bad.\n\nPros:\n\nExcellent burner layout. While this may seem pretty simple for any manufacturer to provide, in our looking at many cooktops, it seems to be the exception rather than the rule. Plenty of room between burners, large pots up front or in the middle where they are simple to handle.\n\nIt's not about boiling water quickly, it's about control. Better than gas, much better than ceramic. Low temperature cooking is a breeze.  Very quick response both up and down.  Can switch burners on the fly with virtually no heat up time, like gas.  No waste heat and no smell, unlike gas.\n\nEasy clean up. You can clean as you are cooking.  Or lay a paper towel right against the pans if you'e ladling a risotto.  No risk of burning or even getting warm.\n\nCan handle pots of widely different sizes.\n\nAs a note on pots:  Older stainless pots/pans may ring when heating up. Our old Sitrams do, new ones do not. Our cast iron pans are the most induction happy. They make no noise, heat up the fastest, heat all the way up the sides almost simultaneous with the bottom, cool down quickly.  After cast iron, our tri-clad pans and titanium Cybernox are excellent.  Aluminum with a stainless bottom is not great. Notably slower compared than the other materials.  If you need to buy new non-stick pans, go with coated stainless. You will pay more but cooking on them is much better than induction ready aluminum pans. We have both.\n\nPower. We use boost frequently and nothing suffers as a result even if 4 pots are going. What's funny to me is the cooktop is on a 30 amp circuit instead of the 50 amp called for (8 gauge wire, short run) as I forgot to put in a new breaker. One of these days I'll get around to it but it's obvious the Miele has a substantial amount of power we have yet to need.\n\nCons:\n\nThe touch controls.  We have first generation touch controls at another home and I detest them. While the Miele's are better, I view them as senseless.  Why introduce a control set that is more difficult to use, sensitive to; leaning on them, covering them with an old baggy sweatshirt that drapes across them, or the towel over my shoulder that drags over them, or a spoon I lean on a pot and the handle happens to end up on a control, or moving a pot and having a control activate?  All while providing no addtional benefit over a knob???  Senseless, give me a set of knobs any day. The touch controls on Miele's oven are a joy to use. The cooktop's are not. Having said all of this, my wife loves them and never has an issue with them. I will admit they are light-years better than the first generation touch controls but, our other cooktop must be 10 years old so progress appears slow in coming.\n\nIt's very shiny.  I'm not talking about good quality absolut granite shiny, or the normal run of the mill black glass cooktop. The Miele's surface is like a mirror. As in even a damp micro-fiber is going to leave streaks. An almost dry, completely clean micro-fiber towel is the only way to wipe it off, once any crud or oils have been totally  removed.\n\nAll in all we are extremely pleased with this cooktop. The control set being my rationale for knocking off a star. My wife would give it 5 stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4173, "id": 77222, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 643, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "Product works great so far (2 weeks since installation), fraction of cost of Maytag part ($90+) or other online appliance parts stores ($50).\nMy washer started making a horribly loud screeching, grinding noise during the spin and rinse/drain cycles (i.e. whenever the tub is spinning to get rid of water).  From what I researched online, I thought it might be the drain pump.  First, in order to move the washer around in order to access the back panel, I unplugged the washer, and removed the drain hose from the wall (you have to pull the last part of this hose out in a spiral fashion so as not to break the tabs at the end of it).  I didn't have to turn the water off and disconnect those hoses since they're long.  I opened the back panel, took the hoses off the pump (have a medium plastic bowl and rags on floor to catch lots of water), and unscrewed 3 screws.  Then you have to move washer and tip it back in order to get under and take off belt - it helps to have a heavy block or something to hold washer up as you tip it back - be careful it doesn't drop on you.  Then put it down, & go back to the back panel and simply lift drain pump out.  I noticed that the metal sleeve on the bottom pulley had come out in an uneven way.  When this sleeve comes up and out it grinds against the bottom of the pump during spin, and makes that horrible noise.\nI put the new pump in the hole (don't screw it in yet), tilted the washer up to put the belt back on, then went to the back panel again to screw in the new pump - this part is tricky because the belt is designed to be really tight, so pushing the new pump into position to lineup the screw-holes will be difficult.  What makes this possible is the fact that the motor actually is designed to move a little from its housing towards the drain pump in order to screw it in - when you're under the washer, you'll notice that the screws under the motor glide along small tracks, back and forth.  So after a little trial and error, you'll screw the new drain pump back in, connect the hoses with the clamps (put the clamps on the pump first, then slide the hoses on) and clean up.  Don't put on the back panel just yet b/c you'll want to safely (i.e. from an appropriate distance) look at the drain pump with a flashlight when the washer is on and in spin/rinse mode to check for leaks.  Of course, before you can do this, you'll need to reconnect the drain hose to the wall, plug in the electricity cord, and turn the water back on if you turned it off.  If this is your first time doing this, it'll take about an hour to be sure you do everything safely and carefully as not to break things.\nSo, with shipping costs, I spent $24 on this part instead of a $130 service call from Sears Blue Crew or the Maytag Authorized repair crews, who would've also charged about $100 for a new drain pump, plus tax.  Thus, altogether I spent $24 versus around $250!  Gotta love the internet!  Good luck!\nP.s. when checking for leaks after installation, I did see some water drops, but turns out they were from the water hose at the top of the washer where it connects to the flume which channels water into the tub.  The clamp there had become rusty and needed to be replaced (I also replaced the flume as well just to be safe - and it was cheap).  But that's a whole other story!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4174, "id": 78316, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 639, "len_tokens": 754, "text": "Just got this range at the end of Feb 11, and it took a couple weeks to get it installed in the house. The impact this range has had over our stock Whirlpool flat top electrical range I bought with the house almost two years ago, was significant. My wife was won over by the \"Bread Proofing\" function and a couple visits to local stores for comparisons to other models under consideration (GE, SAMSUNG, LG, BOSCH). Anyway, the ease of cooking with this range is much greater than we would have imagined in a couple short months. A few pros, two small cons, and a small warning are all I have to say about this excellent range.\n\nPros:\n\n1) Easy to clean up. However if you let any food items get on the recessed cook top surface below the grill, your cleanup will be that much harder. Seems obvious, but I have a teenager in the house. The oven surface is also easy to keep up on.\n\n2) Easy glide racks. I slowly worked on the wife for two years about easy glide racks being a major selling point. Every day use has made my case for this seemingly minor feature by significant labor saving feature.\n\n3) Wave touch controls. My wife who does all the baking in the house loves these more than she ever would have realized until she sat down and read the instruction manual. Staged baking programming has made her a believer.\n\n4) Gas cooking. I've never liked electrical coils, and using the range top has made cooking enjoyable if not fun.\n\n5) Looks great with the understated control panel idle and when it is being used. All cooking information is visible and easy to comprehend.\n\n6) Internal lighting with the shiny blue interior helps you see everything. The old Whirlpool had an internal light that made me feel I was looking down a mile deep shaft with a match trying to squint just a couple more photons of reception out of it.\n\n7) No failures, no glitches, and no problems whatsoever to date. Build quality is high and I have yet to see a single operating issue and neither has my wife. I also didn't buy an extended warranty after looking up consumer complaints against the warrantor for the vendor I selected. I expect in one year and a day (after the manufacturers warranty expires) I'll see my first glitch.\n\n8)Bread proofing function. This is what got my wife on board initially. She is a pretty good baker, but proofing the bread in our previous range was a lot of effort for her. This simple function has made it easier for her. Not one loaf has fallen since she started using it.\n\n9) Precision control on burners. I am very impressed with how the burners are responsive and precise. Going from full flame to the lowest setting keeps food warm while you finish up other food items is simple. I have had no issues with our burners to date.\n\n10) The oven comes with convection but my wife hasn't really used it a lot yet. The regular oven setting cooking results have been more even and come out cooked more thoroughly compared to our previous electric range.\n\nCons\n\n1) Price, this nearly killed the deal. If I hadn't gotten shipping and installation with no sales taxes online, a local buy would have cost us well over $2600.\n\n2) The recessed cook top scratches somewhat easily, so don't use metal based scrubbers.\n\nWarning: If you leave a burner on simmer, it can be difficult to see in a well lit kitchen. It gets pretty low.\n\nIn short, this range has been one of the best deals I have ever gotten and I couldn't be happier with my purchase. I would highly recommend it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4175, "id": 78445, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 647, "len_tokens": 786, "text": "We have had our NXR for almost exactly 1 year now.\nWe have the older model \"NRG3001\" mainly because we preferred the look of the older one. Only difference is the door handle is curved instead of straight and the panel the knobs is on is tilted up instead of flat.\nI have heard NXR went from the 304 stainless (NRG) to the 430 stainless (DRGB)but can not confirm that myself, ours is 304 stainless.\n\nThe Range is very well made, is solid stainless steel on all sides & top, has heavy cast iron grates, heavy thick stainless oven racks.\n4 excellent burners that are the exact ones used by Wolf, made in Germany and 15,000BTU each and all 4 are the same which I required.\nI cant stand stoves that have 4 different burners, one big powerful burner one or two medium and then one tiny almost useless burner for just simmering.\nThat is just a total waste of a stove top to me.\n\nI much prefer 4 really nice powerful burners where all 4 also become very low simmer burners, MUCH better configuration.\nThe burners are spaced enough apart to be able to use 4 large pots/pans at the same time.\n\nLike ALL stainless it is rather easily scratched but other than that it is easy to keep clean and except for a couple tiny scratches still looks like brand new after a year of constant use 3X a day, 7 days a week.\n\nPrior to buying ours last March this one review right here on Amazon was the one and only bad review I had ever found for this stove, and as you can tell has NOTHING to do with the stove itself but is a shipping problem.\n Have since seen 2 others both complaining about the enamel on the inside of oven chipping badly. Both were the DRGB model and seemed like it was probably a bad batch of enamel.\nHave only seen 2 reviews about that so must not have been wide spread problem.\n\nThe other review here from August 17th sounds as though they don't even own the stove just regurgitating something they have heard, which I have heard the same thing. But all they say is that it \"can rust & spot\", but apparently either they don't really own the stove or it hasn't rusted or spotted they just suspect it \"might\".\n\nNot exactly sure how much difference it really makes between 304 to 430 stainless on a stove that is an indoor range and not some outdoor BBQ sitting in the elements. 430 stainless is only slightly less stain/rust resistant and I think the only molecular difference is 430 does not have the 8% Nickle that 304 does.\nTechnically the best stainless would be 316 stainless which virtually no one uses except for BBQs made for marine environments.\n\nAnyway, we are very happy with the stove so far, cooks great, looks great and didn't cost an arm and a leg. We bought ours for $1799.00 total cost shipping included. A Kenmore we were looking at cost more and the NXR is easily 10X the stove that Kenmore would have been.\n\nThe Infrared broiler works very well, oven works great, knobs are nice, the door is heavy duty and even after having the oven on at over 400 degrees for hours the door is only just warm to the touch.\n\nFor the price there is NOTHING that beats a 30\" NXR for value, not even close.\nCan you get stoves just as nice? Yep, but you will pay dearly for it.\nOnly other stoves that are as good and even better in some respects than the NXR start at least $1000 more.\n\nBlue Stars are decent, although I see a lot of complaints about them, Capital Culinarian is very good but both of those will cost considerably more.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4176, "id": 84079, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 626, "len_tokens": 769, "text": "As usual, I spent a whole lot of time looking for a replacement dishwasher. Looked at a lot of models, and narrowed the choices down to models from Whirlpool, Bosch and KitchenAid.\n\nThe high end Bosch and Kitchenaid models were great - read nothing but good things (for the most part) about their performance, and they are very, very quiet. But, cost was a factor, and I just couldn't see paying more than one grand for a dishwasher (and some are a LOT more than a grand!).\n\nLooked into Whirlpool since they get excellent reliability ratings from the \"consumer\" magazine. This model caught my eye since it offered a fully-integrated panel (i.e., the controls are hidden) and some nice convenience features. So far, it has been a top-notch performer.\n\nThe potscrubber feature works very well, and is identical to the one on the Kitchenaid (not unexpected, since Whirlpool owns Kitchenaid). Love the movable cutlery basket! You can hang it on the door for more room, or put it on the front or side of the lower tray. If loaded properly, silverware comes out clean no matter where you put the basket. If, however, you tend to just toss in forks and spoons and not arrange them, you'll want to put the basket on the lower rack so it gets more direct spray time.\n\nThe interior is light gray with a tile-type pattern. It's plastic, so it's not as fancy looking as stainless. But, I care more about what the dishwasher looks like from the outside, and the stainless steel outside looks great. It also has a unique feature among hidden control models in that the steam vent is on the front of the machine, and not the top. That's important to keep the steam from hitting the bottom of your counters. Can't figure out why everyone else doesn't do it that way.\n\nMany different cycles to choose from including regular, adaptive (which uses sensors to figure out what to do), high temp and sanitary rinse. Lots of nice little touches, such as foldable tines and clips to hold light plastic items so they don't flip over during the wash cycle.\n\nNoise levels are very low. No, it is not as whisper quiet as a higher end machine, but the sound level is not at all objectionable.\n\nExcellent value - lots of features, works well, looks great, holds a boat-load of dishes, and has lots of convenience features. Can't ask for more than that!\n\n>>>>>>>Update June 2010: It's been a year since I've had this, and I'm still 100% satisfied with the machine. I run about 2-3 loads per week and so far I've not had one item not come out perfectly clean. I use an enzyme-based detergent and the rinse-aid. Settings that work for me are adaptive wash with the high-temp option.\n\nI usually run the machine after dinner and then unload it the next morning. To save on electricity, I don't use the heated dry. I find that dishes come out completely dry, but plastic items are sometimes damp, especially if it's humid out. Usually the plastic is not damp enough to warrant a towel dry except for a few pieces that I have with a recessed base - enough water collects in the indentation to warrant a quick pass with a towel before putting it back into the shelf.\n\nI've tried the sanitizing rinse and that does help dry items a little bit better. I tend to use that only when I have really greasy dishes and want an extra high temp rinse to ensure all grease is gone.\n\nZero mechanical problems so far. Hope this keeps up!\n\n>>>>Update March 2012:  Working as good as the day I bought it. Very pleased!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4177, "id": 84569, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 623, "len_tokens": 739, "text": "I bought this dishwasher 2 or 3 years ago. I wanted to give it a zero rating, but this is not possible. I suppose it can get a one star rating, it still beats hand washing, most times. We bought this dishwasher brand new from a chain store that sells \"all the brands\". We had traditionally bought our appliances from a local appliance dealer. This dishwasher was to replace the 10 year old Maytag that had endured the abuse of my children. They had abused the Maytag until it's final cry for mercy. During the six months of having them wash the dishes by hand I had done research on what would be the best, rugged, teen proof, bring it!, dishwasher I could find. This was a relatively new model and the reviews on it at the time were great. There seemed to be a lot of room to place a large family amount of dishes in. It was supposed to clean even the toughest (plate missing for six months found under child's bed would make a good science project)dishes. I loved the idea that the upper rack had a height adjustment. I have a huge stock pot that wouldn't fit in the previous dishwasher. It fit in this one. I loved the idea that you could put a pot in the middle of the bottom rack and not worry about the upper rack's dishes getting clean. It was a great dishwasher on paper and in the showroom. My husband and I spent more money on this dishwasher than we had expected but we figured it should last and that over the years the cost would depreciate. Boy, were we wrong. It does not do a great job of washing the dishes. You cannot utilize every prong set so that all the plates can get washed at once. You have to use every other prong set. Sometimes the top rack comes out with food particles that were on the dishes in the bottom rack. The only cycle that does a decent job is the power wash cycle and even this cycle doesn't do the job I spent $1000 to do. I rinse most of my dishes before placing them in the dishwasher, except for things like coffee cups. So, I know it isn't me. Within the first six months the fan on the door went. Luckily, it was still under warrantee. It was very quiet machine, until lately. For the past couple of months, at the end of the cycle, before the cute chime melody, there's a 30 second loud, grinding sound. If I don't hear it at the end of the cycle, I will hear it at the beginning of the next cycle. Today, the dishwasher didn't drain. There is no \"drain\" button. After cleaning up the flood in my kitchen, I Googled and found out how to drain the dishwasher. It's in the FAQ on the LG site. I drained the dishwasher. After this review, today's quest will be to find the receipt and warrantee info.\nThe lessons I learned from buying this dishwasher: Cost doesn't always equate to quality. Buy your appliances from a local, reputable dealer. They know their products and won't try to sell you the most expensive product unless that's what you're looking for. The $10-20 more it would cost is well worth it in service and repair. especially service. Don't buy new models with very little reviews. Read the reviews, Start with the negatives. Disregard the one star \"I wanted pink and it only came in white\" reviews. Pay attention to the reviews that tell you not to waste your money.\nI know this is long. Thank you for your patience in reading this  :)", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4178, "id": 87029, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4179, "id": 87037, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4180, "id": 87045, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4181, "id": 87053, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4182, "id": 87061, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4183, "id": 87069, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4184, "id": 87077, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4185, "id": 87085, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4186, "id": 87093, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4187, "id": 87101, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4188, "id": 87109, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4189, "id": 87117, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4190, "id": 87125, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4191, "id": 87133, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4192, "id": 87141, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4193, "id": 87149, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4194, "id": 87157, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4195, "id": 87165, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4196, "id": 87173, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4197, "id": 87181, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4198, "id": 87189, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4199, "id": 87197, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4200, "id": 87205, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4201, "id": 87213, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4202, "id": 87221, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4203, "id": 87229, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4204, "id": 87237, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4205, "id": 87245, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4206, "id": 87253, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4207, "id": 87261, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4208, "id": 87269, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4209, "id": 87277, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4210, "id": 87285, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4211, "id": 87293, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4212, "id": 87301, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4213, "id": 87309, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4214, "id": 87317, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4215, "id": 87325, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4216, "id": 87333, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4217, "id": 87341, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4218, "id": 87349, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4219, "id": 87357, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4220, "id": 87365, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4221, "id": 87373, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4222, "id": 87381, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4223, "id": 87389, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4224, "id": 87397, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4225, "id": 87405, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4226, "id": 87413, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4227, "id": 87421, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4228, "id": 87429, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4229, "id": 87437, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4230, "id": 87445, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4231, "id": 87453, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4232, "id": 87461, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4233, "id": 87469, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4234, "id": 87477, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4235, "id": 87485, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4236, "id": 87493, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4237, "id": 87501, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4238, "id": 87509, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4239, "id": 87517, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4240, "id": 87525, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4241, "id": 87533, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4242, "id": 87541, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4243, "id": 87549, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4244, "id": 87557, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4245, "id": 87565, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4246, "id": 87573, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4247, "id": 87581, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4248, "id": 87589, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4249, "id": 87597, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4250, "id": 87605, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4251, "id": 87613, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4252, "id": 87621, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4253, "id": 87629, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4254, "id": 87637, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4255, "id": 87645, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4256, "id": 87653, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4257, "id": 87661, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4258, "id": 87669, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4259, "id": 87677, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4260, "id": 87685, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4261, "id": 87693, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4262, "id": 87701, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4263, "id": 87709, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4264, "id": 87717, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4265, "id": 87725, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4266, "id": 87733, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4267, "id": 87741, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4268, "id": 87749, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4269, "id": 87757, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4270, "id": 87765, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4271, "id": 87773, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4272, "id": 87781, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4273, "id": 87789, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4274, "id": 87797, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4275, "id": 87805, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4276, "id": 87813, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4277, "id": 87821, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4278, "id": 87829, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4279, "id": 87837, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4280, "id": 87845, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4281, "id": 87853, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4282, "id": 87861, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4283, "id": 87869, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4284, "id": 87877, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4285, "id": 87885, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4286, "id": 87893, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4287, "id": 87901, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4288, "id": 87909, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4289, "id": 87917, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4290, "id": 87925, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4291, "id": 87933, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4292, "id": 87941, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4293, "id": 87949, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4294, "id": 87957, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4295, "id": 87965, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4296, "id": 87973, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4297, "id": 87981, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4298, "id": 87989, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4299, "id": 87997, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4300, "id": 88005, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4301, "id": 88013, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4302, "id": 88021, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4303, "id": 88029, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4304, "id": 88037, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4305, "id": 88045, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4306, "id": 88053, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4307, "id": 88061, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4308, "id": 88069, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4309, "id": 88077, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4310, "id": 88085, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4311, "id": 88093, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4312, "id": 88101, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4313, "id": 88109, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4314, "id": 88117, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4315, "id": 88125, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4316, "id": 88133, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4317, "id": 88141, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4318, "id": 88149, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4319, "id": 88157, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4320, "id": 88165, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4321, "id": 88173, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4322, "id": 88181, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4323, "id": 88189, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4324, "id": 88197, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4325, "id": 88205, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4326, "id": 88213, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4327, "id": 88221, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4328, "id": 88229, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4329, "id": 88237, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4330, "id": 88245, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4331, "id": 88253, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4332, "id": 88261, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4333, "id": 88269, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4334, "id": 88277, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4335, "id": 88285, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4336, "id": 88293, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4337, "id": 88301, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4338, "id": 88309, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4339, "id": 88317, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4340, "id": 88325, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4341, "id": 88333, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4342, "id": 88341, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4343, "id": 88349, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4344, "id": 88357, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4345, "id": 88365, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4346, "id": 88373, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4347, "id": 88381, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4348, "id": 88389, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4349, "id": 88397, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4350, "id": 88405, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4351, "id": 88413, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4352, "id": 88421, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4353, "id": 88429, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4354, "id": 88437, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4355, "id": 88445, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4356, "id": 88453, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4357, "id": 88461, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4358, "id": 88469, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4359, "id": 88477, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4360, "id": 88485, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4361, "id": 88493, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4362, "id": 88501, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4363, "id": 88509, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4364, "id": 88517, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4365, "id": 88525, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4366, "id": 88533, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4367, "id": 88541, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4368, "id": 88549, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4369, "id": 88557, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4370, "id": 88565, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4371, "id": 88573, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4372, "id": 88581, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4373, "id": 88589, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4374, "id": 88597, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4375, "id": 88605, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4376, "id": 88613, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4377, "id": 88621, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4378, "id": 88629, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4379, "id": 88637, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4380, "id": 88645, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4381, "id": 89752, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 611, "len_tokens": 752, "text": "This works very well, the deluxe is IMO the only way to go. If you're a DIYer and can understand how to do something just by looking at it, you'll be fine. The directions however are lacking in several important ways. For example it says to trace the front plate openings for where to cut the barrel: DON'T. You need remove the doors to trace the openings, AND add enough to the cutout area so that the flange of the front will cover the cut edges of the opening (for me it was about a half-inch more on the main opening and 3/8\" for the cleanout opening). If you didn't, the flange that should stick into the stove over the cut edge will hold the entire  assembly proud of the barrel and you can't get a seal. It's obvious if you visualize it carefully and think about how the stove functions, but it's not in the directions at all. You also need to remove the screws and nuts that hold on the hooks that receive the latches, or they'll stick the face proud of the barrel while you're doing all this. You need to to remove them also (and drill a hole for the screws, another omitted step) for installation of the front, but nothing in the instructions. Instructions also say \"the smooth end of the stovepipe fits *over* the stove pipe collar\" (emphasis mine).  Anyone in the stove business will tell you that's hogwash, and luckily the pipe cannot fit over the collar anyway. You have to put the NOT smooth end (the male, rippled  end) INSIDE the collar, so that any condensation drips inside the chimney and not run outside. Vogelzang tech confirmed this. Also when mounting the flue collar, you need to remove the pin and the damper plate to access two of the mounting holes and for ease of tightening the nuts. Its easy, you just have to compress the tensioning spring against the handle and then rotate and withdraw the pin with an extra turn midway, but again nothing about this in the instructions. Like I said, if you're not skilled at DIY it would be a head-scratcher.\n\nAdditional notes for a 30-gallon barrel installation: the kit is curved to fit a 55-gallon drum, so a 30-gallon requires some mods to work. The front plate is fine but is mounted on the bottom of the barrel where there are no plugs. The flue collar (and, in my case, the stove plate doodad) absolutely require a gasket replacement kit to seal. I placed the base plates in place and drew the cutouts (again, with some consideration for what would actually work) and cut them out. Then I clamped them in place and drilled two screws to hold in place. Then drill the rest of the holes using the holes as guides, as they will shift about due to the curvature and if you just mark them through the holes, remove and drill it would be off. Put all the screws in place with the nuts barely threaded on to them to give maximum play. Now, *important*, saturate the gasket with the black cement/sealant and using the space those loose screws gives you, tuck the gasket into the space between the barrel body and the iron plate all the way around. THEN you can go around and using a ratcheting socket set and screwdriver, tighten opposing screws incrementally until a good seal is formed all around and the barrel forms as much as you can to the more-shallowly-curved fittings.\n\nThis done, you'll have a properly-installed kit that won't leak and will give you years of service.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4382, "id": 95012, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 620, "len_tokens": 792, "text": "(12 month update at the bottom)\nI received this unit as a gift some time ago, and just finally got around to hooking it up last week.  Let's start with the good:\n\n-It looks nice, particularly from a distance.  The Coca Cola logo is spot-on, and the window showcasing the cans inside adds a nice touch.\n-It *does* work as a refrigerator.  \"Ice cold\" would be overstating it quite a lot, but it will chill whatever cans you put in there...eventually.\n-It uses a fairly low amount of space, at least when compared to a traditional mini-fridge.\n\nHmmmm...short list.  Let's look at the bad, then:\n-It's (very) cheaply made.  What looks nice from a distance is revealed to be cheap plastic when closely viewed, the buttons feel like they're going to break sooner rather than later, and ditto for the latch mechanism which holds the front door in place.\n-It does \"leak\".  Thankfully I read the other reviews before hooking it up, and thus placed it on an old towel atop an end table.  Not the classiest look, but it's functional.  And I say \"leak\" because the fridge itself doesn't appear to leak, but rather the condensation from the cans inside tends to collect at the bottom...which is sloped forward a tad to facilitate easy removal of the cans, and thus produces a leak.\n-While it's much smaller than a normal mini-fridge, it stores far less than you'd expect from something this size.  10 cans is your maximum when using it as a traditional vending machine, although you can sneak a couple more into the bottom area at the price of not being able to use those fragile buttons to send cans careening downward.  And speaking of careening cans...\n-Any cans stored above the lowest shelf are going to need to sit for a bit before opening, unless you enjoy wearing your favorite canned beverage.  The drop is sudden and uncushioned, which carbonated drinks stored under pressure generally don't take very well to.\n-The \"door\" at the bottom is fairly useless, and I've found it much easier just to open the front of the unit to remove cans, as well as to load new ones.  And lest you think this is a way to bypass the can drop, no...the cans fit pretty snugly inside each shelf, and are more trouble than it's worth to pull back out of them.\n-The bottom- and top-most shelves take a bit longer to chill than the ones in the middle.\n-Each shelf is perfectly proportioned to hold two 12oz cans...and absolutely nothing else.  Smaller cans will fit in but may or may not dispense properly, and anything larger is only going to work on the very bottom...where upper shelf items are ejected.\n\nIn short, this is an item which is going to look a ~lot~ cooler inside the box than it will once it's been opened.  For someone looking for a small refrigerator for a dorm room or man cave, just buy a small refrigerator.  For someone looking for Coca Cola memorabilia, spend the extra money on the genuine item (or a smaller item in this price range).  I'll give it the second star simply because it *is* a mini-fridge with Coke branding, but I cannot imagine a circumstance where this item would be the best choice available.\n\nUPDATE:\nAlmost a year to the day after I began using it, the motor stopped working without warning.  On the positive side, the buttons and latches I was worried about *did* hold up even after twelve months of daily use, but that's hardly enough to make up for a \"fridge\" with barely any cooling potential to start with that burned out so rapidly.  Stay away.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4383, "id": 99900, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 595, "len_tokens": 724, "text": "Holy wonderful washing unit! I really cannot tell you how impressed I am, but I am sure going to try.\n\nI've had the Wonderwash for about a week now and I've done laundry every other day. It's so quick and easy that I start it while waiting for my coffee to brew, let it drain while I make breakfast, do a rinse run while my eggs finish cooking, plate up my food while it drains, rinse one more time, and eat my meal while it drains the final time. It doesn't even need that final rinse, I'm just picky.\n\nIt is absolutely perfect for my scrubs. I can wash and hang a couple of uniforms every couple of days and never run out again. No more waiting for the laundry room in my apartment to have a free machine.\n\nI've converted a closet into a make shift drying area with dollarstore plastic drop cloth, clothesline, and clothespins.\n\nThis machine has successfully washed scrubs, delicate, jeans, workout clothes, towels, sheets, and tonight I ran my tennis shoes through it! The absolute success of it, across the board, has me writing this review while it drains.\n\nThe machine is almost entirely plastic so it is super light weight. It snaps together easily for use. It uses very little water and detergent. Best of all, it really cleans.\n\nWhen not in use, I wipe the drum dry and stash it in the same closet I use to hang clothes. This is a must have for travel nurses. No more hunting for open laundromats at 2am, or checking the facilities machines every hour hoping to get some laundry done.\n\nI see this being great for camping too. I can't wait to take it on a trip. For now, it certainly sees enough use. Love love love this.\n\nTIPS AND TRICKS (Because I can find a dozen reviews and very little advice)\n\nAdd water and soap before clothes.\nKeep a hand towel nearby for inevitable dribbles.\n\nIf using hot water, pressure builds up (that's a feature, not a bug!) and sometimes the lid will start to leak. After a few turns, release the lid, lock it back down, and keep going. You may have to do this a couple times based upon how hot the water is.\n\nThis is where that hand towel comes in. Give the drum a quick wipe to reduce splatter.\n\nUse a permanent marker to indicate the grooves on the drainage tube (see picture). This saves you the messy fumble of trying to line it up while water leaks everywhere.\n\nUse less water to rinse than you did to wash. The clothes are already wet, and too much water causes the unit to wobble and thud loudly when it is turned. I have found that my rinse cycles take about half the water of my wash cycle.\n\nWash with hot and rinse with cold to save the \"lid dribbles\" when you don't need them!\nI rinse twice. After my wash, I add a spoonful of fabric softener to the first rinse, and plain water to my second. My clothes smell fantastic.\n\nIf you are line or coat-hanger-drying indoors, set up a fan to decrease your drying time exponentially. Also, it makes the whole room smell like clean laundry which is awesome!\n\nWorried you're not rinsing out all the soap? With dry hands, rub your washed clothes between your fingers and then rub your fingers together. If they feel slippery rather than just wet, rinse again. And stop using so much soap, jeez.\n\nHope that helps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4384, "id": 100048, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 593, "len_tokens": 735, "text": "If this item weren't so cumbersome/awkward regarding the stand it would be PERFECT.\n\n A child could play ball with the tumbler -- its so light weight, I was very surprised. Light and  seemingly cheap plastic. The stand itself that the washer sets in is flimsy and is coming apart. NOT falling apart just comes undone. There are plugs to keep it together but my arthritic hands cannot  get them in. The one page instructions are not enough  on how to put the stand together. I'm in poor  health but am no weakling for sure. The washing directions are fine. I however, will use 1 tsp. liquid laundry detergent for my average load (rather than 1 T. as directed). My clothes just aren't that dirty. There are clips to lock the tumbler piece within the stand but again I am unable to attach them. Working the Wonderwash is incredibly eas yand washes my clothes well in only 90 seconds. FYI you have to prespot before washing your load. I've routinely done that for years anyway. I let them sit at least 30-40min. (or overnight) after prespotting before washing. I even washed my gardening gloves and they are very clean. Still dingy, as I expected anyway but look and smell clean. I posted  the  AFTER pic. on Facebook under Pam Vasquez (I'm from MN). I don't know how to get it from there (FB) to here. Finally figured itout. See pic. You will have to use your imagination on how dirty they were before I washed them.  IMHO WONDERWASH is best used set in a bathtub or in my back yard (I watched many how-to Vids on YouTube for hints and tips before purchasing WW))In the tub or yard o you have plenty of room to turn the handle. And room to drain. I just turn the washer upside down and dump b/c its easier and faster and I make less mess. The drainage tube attaches well and drains good but its faster to just dump the water out into the tub. I can even save the rinse water(s) into a bucket to use was wash water for my next load (Remember the old days and wringer washers where you could do the same.)  After the load is done,  I then put the clothes into a spinner type dryer (electric)) to spin/wring out excess water  and then hang to dry. I am sticking with Wonderwasher for now b/c I am THAT impressed with the gloves. I originally bought this washer b/c as a retired person on a limited income I wanted to save money on electricity and gas and detergent. Also save $$ not having to buy new clothes b/c the washer and dryer wore them out sooner than necessary.  Its also a great way to exercise and stay flexible. The WW does not make my arms or shoulders or back sore. NOTE: Turning handle to a count of \"one mississippi-one is the righty tempo. Too fast is not good. Also remember, friction of clothes rubbing against each other is how this cleans in part, not the soap or spinning agitation. To end, I say nothing wrong with being \"green\" at age 64. ;) I would buy this again. Pricepoint could be lower b/c the cheap plastic is worth pennies at most. If I could I would wash my clothes by hand in a bucket with the plunger method but I'm not able to go back (in time) quite that far. But when TSHTF I will at least have clean clothes!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4385, "id": 100291, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 640, "len_tokens": 774, "text": "I live in a condo which has a laundry room, so a washing machine isn't an absolute necessity.  However, I was beginning to find it inconvenient to pack up my laundry and bring it over (and sometimes finding all the washers in use).  Laundry was beginning to back up.  So I began to think I could start washing at least clothes and lightweight items by hand, and watched a few videos featuring the Wonderwash plus spin dryers as an alternative.  The two items together seemed to create an elegant, energy-efficient system.  So I purchased both Wonderwash and the Nina Soft Spin Dryer (both by The Laundry Alternative) and I was actually excited about washing clothes by hand.\nThe good news is, I have found a lot of wash can be done quickly and easily by hand.  The biggest change to old-fashioned hand-washing is thanks to the Nina Soft Spin Dryer.  (More on this later.)  However, I cant say that the Wonderwash has performed as well.  In its favor, it does do everything as promised.  My complaints are:\n(1) The suction cups at the base do a great job of holding the unit down, but do not prevent it from sliding sideways, especially when the surface gets wet (which is always).  And when you want to pick the unit up after use, the suction cups have to be released one at a time.\n(2) I tried using to spigot to release the water.  This should just twist on the valve at the base, water being released when its twisted a quarter turn.  The times where this works, the water leaks  a lot -- at the point where the valve joins the spigot.  Sometimes I cant get the spigot on the valve at all.\n(3) The other option for water release is to just tip the Wonderwash upside down and let the water out through the top.  This works well in some places.  But if you are using the Wonderwash in a tight space (a tight area near the kitchen sink, for example), you might have to turn the whole unit, so that the handle (which is probably positioned to your right for turning) must be turned to the front or back, so that you can tip the water into your sink.  Here again, the suction cups make simple turning into an awkward operation.\n(4) The quality of the wash seemed fine, but I am not sure that it is any better than a wash in the sink.  I probably would wash really dirty clothes in a commercial washing machine, but even when I purchased this item, it was only meant to augment my regular washing routine.\n(5) The last reason to consider before buying the Wonderwash is that if you think you can easily return this item if you are not satisfied, my current situation is that I am finding the cost of boxing up and mailing the Wonderwash will just about cover what I paid for it in the first place.\nTo sum up, I am finding the Wonderwash to be awkward, messy, and now taking up valuable storage space in my apartment.  I am sorry, I really wanted to like it.  If you are thinking about a manual laundry routine, I would encourage you to buy The Laundry Alternative Nina Soft Spin Dryer first and use it in combination with a simple sink or plastic basin for a washer.  The Dryer takes all the water-dripping mess out of hand washing.  After washing and rinsing, you just move your sopping wet laundry by bucket to the Soft Spin Dryer, and in a few minutes, you have a laundry load that is dryer than after the spin cycle of a regular washing machine.  Your clothes are then ready to be put on hangers or clothes rack for no-drip drying.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4386, "id": 100576, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 664, "len_tokens": 797, "text": "The answer is, yes! When shopping Amazon for an inexpensive washer to eliminate my trips to the laundromat, I found two that appealled to me. One was a motor driven machine and the other was the Wonderwash. I was attracted to the motor driven machine but after watching and comparing YouTube videos of the two machines, I didn't like the idea of needing to turn the machine upside down to empty it. Another thing was that the videos usually showed the machines being used in a bathtub. I'm 78 years old and have arthritis so a countertop machine that didn't make a mess was a number one priority. Wonderwash filled that criteria. The next questions were will the wash look clean, smell clean, and feel clean. My first use answered that question...Yes! Then I wondered if the suction cups would really hold the machine in place on the counter? They did! Careful measurements of the space available under the kitchen cabinets and adjacent to the sink indicated that I had just under 18\". The machine is 18\" tall. If I placed the machine at the rounded edge of the countertop, all would be well. As soon as the machine was delivered, I was anxious to try it. Where is the instruction manual? There wasn't one. This machine is so easy to assemble that one isn't needed (I seldon read them anyway). It went together quickly. I placed it on the countertop. My measurements were right on the mark! I was in business! One important thing was, will the machine wash a pair of heavy denim jeans and remove the stains. I took a pair, sprayed some dollar store stain remover on the spots and put them in the Wonderwash. A few minutes of cranking and drained the soapy water, filled with rinse water and cranked away. My next concerm was, did the rinse remove the detergent? I'd soon find out when I took the jeans out and put them in the sink to wring the excess water. No sign of detergent! This little machine's name is certainly appropriate! The stains were gone, the jeans looked clean. They smelled like clean laundry should and they felt clean! Now comes the important part: I live in a condo and have my own washer and dryer. The washer failed some time ago and I had been using a nearby laundromat for my wash. I live alone so my wash isn't like washing for a family. I was seeking a solution to the visits to the laundromat. Wonderwash was it! The problem was wringing the items. My solution was that I have a gas dryer that still functions so I didn't need to wring all the water. If I didn't have the dryer, I would certainly look into one of the machines that spins the excess water to supplement the Wonderwash. Otherwise, I suppose I'd need to hang the wet laundry somewhere while it dried. In three nights, I was able to do all my laundry and didn't need to leave my condo! Well worth the price! What I learned was: don't put a lot in the machine. With a 'full load' of clothing and the required amount of water, cranking can become an effort. I prefer a smaller load. One heavy pair of jeans, or one big bath towel, or one double bedsheet would be my limit. What did surprise me was that with so little effort, my wash is as clean as it would have been in a commercial machine. It smells much fresher, and it is really soft feeling. I'm really pleased with Wonderwash. If you are comparing various machines, I suggest that you watch some of the YouTube videos showing them in use. One last comment, when I was screwing the top for the first time, it was a bit difficult so I used a rubberized glove to make things a bit easier. The top must be screwed completely, otherwise water will leak.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4387, "id": 100698, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 630, "len_tokens": 780, "text": "This washer is ingenious and simple, and by itself, manages to wash ALL of my, and my husband's clothes, every single week. Our clothes have NEVER been so clean. I attribute that to it's simple, yet highly effective pressure system. I know it takes a bit of fumbling around at first to get this thing to working as ideally as it is intended, and I've read where other reviewers have maybe gotten fed up or didn't have the patience. I wasn't perfect at it at first. But I've perfected my method, and I now can wash five to seven loads of our clothes in under two hours (including pauses for rinsing, spin drying in our centrifugal spin dryer, and hanging). It's astounding (to my husband - I had a hunch all along, haha) just how many clothes you can wash in the thing! I don't recommend overfilling, but you truly can get away with several shirts (I'd say 3-4), a pair of jeans (my husband's over 6 foot, and wears some pretty substantial jeans), and a week's worth of boxer shorts and underthings, in ONE load.\n\nNowdays, I've got my method so fine-tuned that I just pile all our clothes beside our (clean) bathtub, the Sputnik 3/Wonderwash in the center, my buckets (I use two standard size buckets to alternately fill with water) on the side with the water faucet. I fill S3 with water and the little soap it requires to do its job, agitate the water briefly with my hand, toss in one load, watch the clock for a couple (and I really mean TWO here) minutes while I get a nice little arm workout cranking (if you fill the load right, it's actually not that good of an arm workout - you'll learn the right balance of clothes/water after a few trials). Release the pressure lid, being sure to unscrew almost completely, so that the next time you put it on, you'll get a nice snug fit. I remove the clothes and place them in my prepared buckets with clean water and give them a good squeezing out. I've gotten to where I really don't use the draining spout. I find it's quicker just to turn S3 over and empty the water that way, into the bathtub. But if you're not in the bathtub, obviously, you'll want to drain more neatly. Usually I replace my clean load into the S3 for a rinsing round, filling up another bucket with water as I go. I flop the wet clothes to the other side of the bathtub, and move to the next load. I continue til I'm done. It truly takes fractions of the time standard washer units take to wash clothes. Our clothes are ten times cleaner I feel, and not nearly as distressed at the end of washing. Our delicates are in heaven, and the rest of our clothes are lasting way longer, looking far newer, than they would otherwise.\n\nI've been amazed at how clean our sheets are - and how easy it is to clean sheets with S3. We've got high threadcount sheets, and they apparently LOVE being treated with such care. They are literally shiney when they've finished drying.\n\n[...] has the corner on this alternative to standard clothes washing and drying and bravo for them! Their customer service has treated me with impressive speed and have been very personable and professional.\n\nMy only critique of the Wonderwash is that the base is not as finely crafted as the unit itself. Mine is working fine, and it's imperative that you install all its parts correctly. However, I feel that it could be sturdier. It's not losing a single star over that though. It's an ingenious piece of equipment. I THOROUGHLY recommend it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4388, "id": 100709, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 625, "len_tokens": 756, "text": "I bought a Wonder Washer from Laundry Alternatives, actually I have purchased two. One for a friend who also loves hers.\nRegarding the SPUTNIK 3 label - there may be some grounds for confusion over the labeling, but the machine is the exact same, I had them side by side and there is no difference. When the manufacturer changes labels it does cause some confusion.\nNow: You put this little machine together, and the idea is for it to spin with the crank handle using warm to hot water and a pressure-sealed top that creates pressure inside, forcing the small about of detergent into the fabric of the clothing. To me, the handle was a bit \"iffy,\" mine came with a screw to be driven into a plastic plug instead of a metal cotter pin. Judging the weight of water plus clothing and the flexibility of the stand, I just took it right back off. If you wash very small loads with no more than one-and-a-half quarts of water, you'll be just fine with the handle. But, I still didn't mark it down for that. I fill the machine about half-full of water, temperature depending on the clothing items, state of soil, etcetera. Then, I have my uppare workout. After the machine is properly loaded and sealed, I put on my 1-pound wrist weights and turn the machine by hand for a count of about 120 - 150 complete rotations, take off the weights, insert the drain and let it drain. Once the water has mainly run out, I remove the top and turn the tub to empty the contents. Quick double rinse in cold water and the wash part it done.\n**Here's where the difference comes in. This machine does EXACTLY what it says it will do, clean your clothing and fabric items quickly and simply. They never said it would wring (please - get the spelling right, we don't \"ring\" clothes) the items for you. I use a SPIN DRYER - makes all the difference!\nThe soaking, dripping items are plopped right into my \"Charming Spinner,\" spun for a couple of minutes until the water has stopped coming from the spout and then they are ready to be hung up to dry. That's it.\nCAPACITY: In my Wonder Washer, I can get one flannel queen-sized bed sheet and one pillow case at a time, meaning my bed clothing takes two cycles to get done.\nOR - I can get one pair of flannel lined jeans, two underwear, and a pair of socks.\nOR - Regular jeans, one pair plus 3 or 4 men shirts.\nOR - One large bath towel plus two T-shirts\n\nAny way, all this to say, I have used the Wonder Washer SOLELY for the last five months to process laundry for two people, only once using the pay washer-dryer for a comforter which is too large to wash by hand and also to large to go into the spin dryer. It has worked for me, and by my nearest calculations my initial out for the Wonder Washer washer and the spin dryer were recouped in 10 weeks.\n\nNow I am shopping for a portable washing machine, electric-style since my new job requires me to commute and I won't have the time to do laundry by hand.\n\nBottom Line: To me, clothing is personal and processing laundry by hand is very satisfying. The Wonder Washer will be put away for use on weekends when I don't have a daily commute that takes time away from home where I do enjoy housework style working at home. I highly recommend it, treat it gingerly as it is a small hand powered laundry machine, and you'll get good use of it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4389, "id": 100847, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 619, "len_tokens": 764, "text": "We bought this unit with the matching stove, dishwasher, & microwave 6 months ago at the end of November, 2010.  There was a promotion by Frigidaire to sell them, if you buy the stove and fridge they throw in the dishwasher and microwave at no cost.  That should have told me something!\n\nI won't go into the ridiculous water dispenser that makes it nearly impossible to hit the glass since others have already described it in detail here.  Our 6 month old refrigerator just died completely!  We heard warning beeps and the display showed temperature numbers that were going up and down.  The refrigerator seemed to be holding a steady temp of 37 degrees, while the freezer went from what appeared to be zero or less, to higher than the refrigerator temp.\n\nAs it turns out, the whole unit had actually died, leaking water all over our new hardwood kitchen floors during the night and ruining them!  We tried to call the toll-free Frigidaire help desk and only got the call back later message, it is only open business hours on weekdays.  We will have to deal with getting this thing repaired and new floors installed with less than 2 weeks until we have over 50 guests here for a party.  I couldn't be more disappointed and frustrated with a major appliance.  I thought they would have figured out how to make a unit that ran and kept a steady temperature, growing up our basic fridge lasted my whole childhood.  I only hope that our repair jobs are better than others have experienced, it seems the nightmare has just begun...\n\nPart 2 of the story - Our refrigerator was repaired two weeks ago today.  I was worried about an 8 month old refrigerator that needed so much work and so many parts replaced, but the service tech got it running...for a while.  Less than two weeks from the repair date, and the morning of my wedding, the fridge died again!\n\nIt acted the same as before, warning beeps, temperature rising in freezer and refrigerator, resetting did nothing to make it cool.  I called the repairman back who said he could come early in the afternoon, the only problem was that I WAS GETTING MARRIED AND HAVING CLOSE TO 50 GUESTS OVER TO MY HOUSE!!!!\n\nWe went to the ceremony and reception, then all of the guests arrived afterwards and were welcomed by warm beer, warm wine, no ice, and smelly warm food.  As for the tradition of saving a piece of cake in the freezer for the one-year anniversary, that's been denied us by Frigidaire!  We had to run out for ice during the party and find containers for makeshift ice buckets.\n\nI called the local appliance store where I bought it (not amazon unfortunately) and got the same runaround as before.  It only has a one year repair warranty, so you have to call Frigidaire.  The service company (recommended by Frigidaire for warranty work) who worked on it 2 weeks ago still hasn't sent in their paperwork, so there's no record it was fixed once already!!!  Frigidaire also gave me the same runaround as before when I called them.\n\nI can't stress enough to avoid Frigidaire products.  This pathetic excuse for a refrigerator in my kitchen is about 8 months old and has completely died twice already.  I'm sure they will want to keep fixing it until the 12 month warranty expires then tell me tough luck for the last time.  They have ruined two full fridge-loads of groceries, my kitchen floor from water leakage, my wedding and party afterwards, and my anniversary since I won't be eating frozen wedding cake!  It doesn't get any worse than this!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4390, "id": 101584, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 613, "len_tokens": 757, "text": "During my shopping process for a whole kitchen full of appliances, I noticed reviews are either penned by haters or lovers.  That makes it hard for people trying to balance cost, function and reliability, because no appliance will ever be perfect. I was just now shopping on Amazon for a new filter for our fridge and noticed this product did not get very good reviews, I mean not at all. So I have to chime in and tell everyone this refrigerator is fine!\n\nWe've had this fridge installed for 6 months now.  Two weeks after we put it in the ice maker went out. I immediately predicted gloom and doom and cited all the negative reviews we'd read here.  But the warranty repair company sent someone out immediately.  He told me this unit uses the exact same model as most other brands out there (like Jenn-Air, Thermador, Kitchenaid and GE, and all the icemaker units come from same manufacturer in China) and we just got a lemon ice maker and a gear was stripped out, which meant it wouldn't turn out the ice cubes.  That whole unit got switched out at no cost, no problem. Since then we have had no issues.\n\nSome pros, as I see them:  the lighting inside is good, even being \"not LED.\"  Seriously, it's a fridge not an operating room.  I really like the shelf that rotates up or down easily.  I can do that to make room for something tall below without unloading the shelf.  The doors do need to open almost all the way (like almost all side by sides) but the drawers slide in and out very smoothly.  It is consistently very cold, and I love being able to adjust the temp on the lower drawer independently.  Some weeks it holds meat at a lower temp, sometimes it's just regular stuff that's overflowed into the drawer.  Also, we had an \"oops\" where my young son pulled the milk carton out of the door shelf too fast, and knocked that whole shelf out onto our tile floor.  It hit pretty hard, and the silver rim came off, but it did not break or crack.  (and the silver rim popped right back on.) Thank you, Bosch, for plastic strong enough to survive young families!\n\nNow for some minor, picky cons:  The very bottom refrigerator door shelf is useless. I think I currently have a baggie of pine nuts shoved in there, and that's really all it will hold.  And the shelves on the freezer door are a little small too.  This is a pretty compact unit!  The control panel on the outside really takes some practice.  If we ever have to do anything tricky it requires a trip to the manual drawer.  I would never, ever use that panel for the timer function.  Heaven help you if you set that thing.  It's not intuitive.  Most people who come to our house and try to use the water/ice function without a warning get their feet wet.  The water dispenser is pretty far forward.  This is a minor complaint, because you only make that mistake once, but I can see how people keep mentioning it in reviews because it is a little startling at first.  I've never met an ice dispenser that behaved all the time, and ours does just what they all do occasionally.  Crush when you've asked for cubed, spit a piece out spontaneously, etc.  Very rare but it happens.\n\nAll in all, I'm really happy with this purchase.  For a mid-price, sleek, stainless refrigerator, it's performing exactly as I'd hoped, which is to say that it does its job so well I usually don't even notice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4391, "id": 102172, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 624, "len_tokens": 779, "text": "After much research, we retired our 1992 Kenmore dishwasher in favor of a Bosch Model# SHE55M12UC. The Kenmore was still going strong, cleaning the dishes just fine,  though noisy as from the day we bought it and a bit beat up. But, hey, it was 20 years old (and I will give it to Habitat for Humanity's Restore store and some one will use it some more years.)\n\nWe didn't wait for it to fail.  We became very interested in using less water and less gas to heat the water and a much quieter appliance, and we assumed the dishes would be cleaned as well if not better than with our Kenmore.\n\nIn all cases our expectations have been met.  It is a very economical appliance, the dishes get VERY clean (on \"Auto\" setting)  and, my goodness, the appliance is so quiet we really do have to listen \"closely\" for its work.\n\nYou can hear the water going in sometimes and can hear water going into the drain and with ear to machine, you can hear the operations (hum of the motor, etc.)  But, that's it.  If two people are in the kitchen talking normally, they drown out the machine, not the other way around.\n\nYes, as some people have pointed out, the capacity of the machine is less than, say, a new Kenmore. So, if you have a really big family, then maybe you should choose less quiet and more capacity. That said, we had two guests last night and the Bosch handled all four of our dinner and desert and pan and glass and coffee cup and big bowl dishes.  It may be we have to think a bit more about placement than we did with our bigger Kenmore, but that is OK for us.\n\nSome people talk about lack of sufficient drying. I don't know what they are talking about.  When the zero on the counter comes on, open the door and the dishes are pretty dog gone dry.  (Except where concave surfaces have held \"puddles\" of water.\n\nThe ability to EASILY raise or lower the top rack seems really useful, as do all the various tines that are collapsible.  The two utensil baskets offer lots of versatility.\n\nWhat most impresses me is the build quality and that was the reason we bought the Bosch.  During the installation you can see and feel the German engineering and the manufacturing quality done in the U.S. Without going into detail you can see HOW the quiet--47 DB--is achieved.  If this machine fails I will be surprised.\n\nOne caveat, one negative, though it is not enough for me to knock the rating from a five to a four.  If I could: 4.75.  While the Bosch cleverly channels both the electrical wiring and the hot water inlet line to the front of the machine where they are secured, I cussed at the Germans for their method of installing the plastic toe plate which is used to help quiet the machine.\n\nI had read another review about that \"blinkety blank\" toe plate.  The engineering team did not take into account real life.  Again without detailing why it was such a 45 minute problem, I will give those of you who do install this machine yourself a tip:  Use masking tape to tape the 1.5\" long screws (2) to the tip of your screw driver and then you will be able to insert the screws into the holes. You will know what I mean. I blinkety blanked the Germans on this part!\n\nI have no other, but an old Kenmore, dishwasher with which to compare this Bosch.  But, as an amateur handy man, I can unequivocally say this Bosch is the real deal.\n\nStephen Drinkard\nSandpoint, Idaho", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4392, "id": 102173, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 595, "len_tokens": 708, "text": "Bought a new dishwasher after my 10 year old GE profile started leaking. Installed myself. Some hints,when moving the dishwasher, you will have the tendency to want to grab the metal flange of the dishwasher that is sticking out. Do not do that, that part of the dishwasher is really sharp and will cut you.  Also  buy a new water line to replace the old one.  I tried to use the same water line from before, but it leaked. There is an O-ring in it and I guess it did not seal very well. The strain plate that you have to buy took me a while to find. It was called a combination connector in the hardware store I went to. What it does is clamp the cord so that if someone pulls on the cord, the stress will go to the clamp and not pull the wires out of the dishwasher.  For wiring the electrical, no soldering is required, you just push the wire into the correct place and tighten the screw down. It is a 3 phase wiring. I forget which color goes to what, but you can find that online.  Putting on the bottom grill was hard. You should align everything with a flashlight , then put the screws in.\n\nNow to the dishwasher.  After buying it, I had a bit of buyers remorse.  The rack  is great for loading saucers and plates,but it is hard to load cups and bowls. We used to load cups on the sides of the top rack, but on the Bosch, if you do that, you can't put plates next to it, unless you have ridiculously small tea cups.  There are a lot of very narrowly spaced bars that don't work so well for big items and bowls. You can move the bars down, but if you can't nest the bowls, you really can't put many bowls in. There are some wider spaced bars for bowls on the top rack, but not many. Overall, it does not seem to hold as much as my older dishwasher because of these inefficiencies in loading bowls and cups.  I also did not like the controls that much. When you turn the on/off switch on, it immediately starts the cycle. It doesn't allow you to pick which cycle. You can change cycles after it finishes.  I'm still figuring this out, but I left it on auto mode, which seems to work.\n\nNow the good part, this is the first dishwasher I have ever used that I can just put in really dirty dishes and it will clean them without pre-rinsing or scraping. I put in plates with stuck on cheese and pasta that I could not scrape off without a scotchbrite pad.  After the cycle, they were very clean. They recommend using Finish quantum pellets, but I was using the cascade gel I was using from my previous dishwasher and it work fine.  So this makes cleaning dishes much faster. Just wipe off anything loose particles and put the soiled dish in. I really like this about this dishwasher. Maybe all new dishwashers are like this, but I'm happy that this cleans so well.\n\nI would give the Bosch a 5 if it had more rack space suited towards bowls and the controls weren't so fussy. However, bottom line, this dishwasher cleans better than any dishwasher I've ever used and for that, I am happy that I bought it.  Also, I was able to get a $50 credit from the utilities for this since it saves water and electricity.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4393, "id": 103794, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 684, "len_tokens": 786, "text": "I was reluctant to order this at first due to a lot of comments around the packaging of the unit and them showing up with dents and scratches. When the unit arrived the outside parcel was a bit torn. However the seller must have taken the feedback that was given and made some changes as my unit was in perfect condition without a single scratch or dent. It was double boxed. The OEM box has the unit inside with a Styrofoam shell. Then the EOM box was lined with stiff cardboard corners and wrapped in Styrofoam around that and then placed in an additional box. Only the outer box had a slight tear. Given the weight of the unit it was expected. Don't hesitate to order this unit as I'm certain it will show up in perfect condition. Even if we were to order an additional one I wouldn't be worried.\n\nThe unit itself is made of quality materials. I placed a digital thermometer inside the unit and it holds a solid 37 degrees inside. Keep in mind this is a minifridge and not a cooler. A major difference. The only complaint I have about the unit is that we have it downstairs behind our bar. Not in the bar but behind it sitting on the carpet. When placed on the carpet the door would drag the carpet and after our first basement break in party the door was left slightly open a few times because the door was difficult to shut. I tried to adjust the feet to raise the unit up but was unable to do so because the legs are not adjustable. I happen to have an extra 18X18 tile from the bathroom. I sat the unit on top of the tile and it solved the problem. The door open and shuts perfectly. Keep in mind we do not have shag carpet either. It is a medium density stainmaster carpet with standard stainmaster padding. If you plan to place this in a carpeted area do yourself a favor and go purchase an 18X18 tile.\n\nAs others have mentioned the shelves don't hold cans the best when you go to fill it as some tip from side to side when placed vertical. I removed the second from the bottom shelf to hold 4-5Liter kegs. I can hold exactly a case of beer in the bottom section which is not as deep as the others since the compressor housing is in the way. Which leaves me with the top full shelf and the very top shelf that holds them in a horizontal fashion. The horizontal shelf holds a 12 pack 6 on each side. Without the removal of a shelf this unit will not accommodate 16oz water bottles or beer bottles placed vertically. These will need to be placed on their sides unless you remove a shelf.\n\nOverall I would give this fridge a 5 out of 5 or 10 out of 10. It servers our purposes perfectly and it looks great, and it was at a great price point. If I had to make a couple of changes or a wish list. I wish it used an LED bulb for that newer look. Additionally, I wish the light could be turned on when the door was shut since it is a glass face to showcase the drinks inside. UPDATE: Finds out there is a switch inside on the side of the light to turn it on. Check that off the lsit! Other than that it's the perfect height and the top is being used to hold our EdgeStar 5Liter Kegerator. Which places the tap at the perfect height and I am 5'10\".\n\nAll in all don't hesitate to purchase this unit as I searched for several weeks and really did my homework before ordering a mini fridge for our bar when we finished the basement. I assure you that you will not find a better product at this price point.\n\nUPDATE: Over a year later this thing is still ice cold and no issues. Look no furhter, the perfect minifridge holds true!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4394, "id": 105060, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 643, "len_tokens": 779, "text": "I was VERY VERY (can't quote that enough) skeptical to buy this at first. I spent an entire month comparing all portable washers, watching youtube videos, going over reviews before I settled on this one. We live on the 4th floor, fiance is pretty useless when it comes to taking laundry to the laundromat, spends $80 a month on laundry for no reason!!! I normally do laundry myself but I am 2 months from having our baby and I would have to lug the laundry down 4 (MORE LIKE 8 SINCE ITS DOUBLE STAIRS) flights of stairs with our two year old daughter, around the corner and back up. I'm on bedrest and just finally cracked when my fiance \"forgot\" to do laundry and our daughter had nothing to wear one day. I felt like I needed to take laundry back into my own hands to save money and to make sure we had clothes. I received this Monday, March 26, 2018, today is April 1,2018 I am not going to lie I have used this TREMENDOUSLY trying to get the clothes up that my fiance kept leaving behind telling me he thought the clothes were clean. I have done about 20 loads of clothing since the machine is so little and with no dryer I've been doing laundry very often and hanging as many clothes as I can. It's works really good, gets our clothes clean and spins really good. after I finish getting all of the laundry up I will go to only trying to use it 3 times a week or hopefully less. But with our newborn coming and the chance of a c-section, I really need this thing and can't always wait for fiance to decide when he wants to do laundry....\n\nThe machine is very small but very capable. My fiance is on the larger side weighing about 230lbs now but still wears clothes from when he was about 360lbs (yes he's come a long way). His sweatpants are very heavy so I wash them separately. My clothing I wash about 3 pants, 3 shirts and some socks and undies. I'm 5'3 and weigh about 210lbs being pregnant and all. My daughter I can wash a very decent amount due to her being small but I do sometimes do it in 2 separate loads. I try to be careful with how much I'm loading since I'm doing so many washes this week. I go by the clothing feel, How much space it takes up before the water and fabric. I have even washed my daughters bed blanket which is for a twin size bed, it was light weight so i tried it. I've done 2 towels, 2 wash cloths and our kitchen towel in one wash. Our bed sheets and blankets go to the laundromat, no question no trying.\n\n For the most part, I'm happy with my selection for right now. I brought warranty of course and registered the product. So far so good. I will be back to update in one month.\n\n UPDATE:: May 10, Its been a little over one month and I haven't slowed down my use thanks to preterm labor kicking in. Ive been working on getting everything ready for when our baby comes home. I got the magic chef 2.5 cubic dryer to help get this laundry up because hanging clothes wasn't cutting it. The washer is still up and running. I use it about 4 to 5 days out of the week, about 3 to 4 loads a day. It takes at least 2 queen size sheets just fine. So all we have to take to the laundromat are the queen size blankets. I must say I'm still happy with my decision. Being house bound for most of the day isn't fun but I can at least get it clean.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4395, "id": 108767, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 570, "len_tokens": 791, "text": "When I said that I was going to go online to buy a compact refrigerator from Amazon, several people tried to convince me that refrigerators, and all major appliances should be purchased locally. \"After all,\" they argued, \"You must see it in a showroom;  It can get crushed in shipping; Local delivery only takes a few days and is cheaper; You can negotiate a better price etc. etc.\" I knew better, and placed an order with my Amazon Prime Membership, that gives me 2nd day Free Shipping. The price was right, the fridge is beautiful, keeps everything cold and fresh, is so absolutely pin-drop quiet, that I checked inside periodically, to make sure that it hadn't shut off. My new SPT is better than I expected and I'm thrilled. By the way, something did go wrong: It arrived by UPS NEXT DAY OVERNIGHT, and Amazon did not charge me even one penny extra! P.S. Freezer keeps everything \"Frozen Solid\" including the ice cubes.\n\nFIVE MONTH UPDATE (7/21/14): This fridge & its freezer still work so efficiently and quietly, that the two of my colleagues who lobbied the most persistently against my purchase from Amazon, have joined Amazon Prime's 30-day free trial, and each now enjoys this SPT in his own office.\n\nTWENTY MONTH UPDATE (10/4/15): This refrigerator is still the best purchase I have ever made from Amazon, as well as the best refrigerator I have ever owned, regardless of size.  It is as good now, as it was on the day I received it.  It is very quiet, extremely efficient, and hardly ever needs defrosting.  Its freezer continues to work perfectly, and the refrigerator keeps everything, from fruit and vegetables, to meat, beverages, and dairy products fresh, and flavorful, beyond expectations. Nearly everybody in my company , who has an office, is ordered this exact refrigerator for theirs, (upon my recommendation), and, almost every one of them has either called or written me a note of thanks.\n\nAs of this date, Amazon Prime is not available for this product.  When I purchased mine from them, the price including shipping was $153.00.  In retrospect, that was a fantastic price and equally fantastic product.  Now, since Amazon Prime no longer carries this model, I see the third-party sellers have raised the price above $300.  There is a new model that is available on Amazon Prime, and which Amazon itself is selling for less than I paid for mine, almost 2 years ago.  The specifications seem to be almost the same, except that the door is pure stainless steel, instead of the black door that was standard on mine.  Considering that this model was built with the expectation of being out of sight, it really does not matter.  In my case, I put contact paper on their door, that matched the furniture piece under which it was placed, so as to be entirely unobtrusive.\n\n I have never been completely at ease doing business with third-party sellers, and I have memories that sustain my feelings.  If Amazon was not selling the refrigerator, when I bought it, I would have bought locally instead.  I recommend that anyone considering buying this refrigerator, first check the new model that Amazon is selling.(Link below) It is just as highly rated as mine, yet selling for less than half the price&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/SPT-RF-244SS-Compact-Refrigerator-Stainless-2-4-Cubic-Feet/dp/B00KVPU108/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">SPT RF-244SS Compact Refrigerator, Stainless, 2.4 Cubic Feet</a>&nbsp;Good luck to all!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4396, "id": 111748, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 562, "len_tokens": 702, "text": "I bought the paired set. It was great up until 6-7 months of ownership. The thing kept giving an error (motor control issue). It had trouble finishing a cycle particularly spinning. The first warranty repair service (DanMarc) wow..., the guy seemed nice enough. Well, that repair failed and I also happened to find little white plastic pieces here and there. Well, 2 wks the error came back. DanMarc made it a 3 step process to give an appointment not to mention just sent their techs anyways if they were in the area. I had calls during work when the worker was at my door and I never confirmed that time or day! I switched to FTL appliance. He opened it and I found where the little pieces belonged! Yes, there were broken areas inside due to over torquing! Nice job there Danmarc! Complaint filed to BBB that day. Well, apparently now the actual motor needs to be replaced too! The backorder was 1 month plus!!! The thing sat in my bed room disassembled for more than one month!. I also called Frigidaire to complain but they only extended my parts warranty for 6 mo. I also found out there was a leak somewhere but we couldn't find it so we thought it was residue water from tilting it around. WRONG: lovely after Xmas...I saw a puddle of detergent water....yep. I call corporate again, they refused to replace this lemon, they insisted on repair despite the fact that I created a complaint file with corporate. I tried reasoning with them...cost, labor etc since it was also under warranty still....they refused to say I made perfect sense. They trained their reps well in the art of denial. I even asked off the record, if she knew she was getting constant repairs on the unit, wouldn't she be angry? She skirted the question and said \"I am a consumer too so I would know I still have to follow up with another service call...\" - way to save your job there! BS...you know she would've been the first to demand more than what I ask  LOL c'mon really?! STAY AWAY FRPM FRIGIDAIRE AND ELECTROLUX PRODUCTS!!!! You are gambling with your money and sanity!! If you don't believe me look at reviews for their associated products and google them too. You will find people complaining of the reliability, most likely about the motors and the backorder wait. As of today, I begin saving my dollars for a new washer....I think I will go Samsung this time.\n\nThe matching dryer I am happy to say - let's just not jinx that one. Lemme put it that way. (crossing my fingers)\n\nUPDATE 5/1/12: Finally found the most honest and competent corp rep ever. Ms Rebecca Williams, GOD BLESS YOU! She basically was honest and smart enough to agree that a 3rd or 4th visit is not only a waste of time and money but cruel for me to go thru again! She arranged for a NEW same model to be delivered free! It's in, it's going and my fingers are crossed. I have hopes for this one! Becca...where ever you are, I sincerely wish you the best! The Corp rep before her: god forbid you are in my shoes and the same happens...I hope I am in your mind when Karma bites you in the ass!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4397, "id": 111759, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 622, "len_tokens": 753, "text": "Jan 18, 2011:  This is THE BEST washer I've ever had or used!  I LOVE it and can't say enough good about it.  I bought it in Nov 2010 so I've had it about 2 months and I do 2 or 3 loads a day with a family of 5. I researched a lot.  I subscribed to Consumer Reports to research even more.  The bottom line was that the best washers according to user reviews were this Maytag MHWE450WW and the Samsung.  I really wanted to support our U.S. economy and buy American...even though this washer is made in Germany.  The dryer is made in Ohio.  Maytag was not good several years ago but they recognized that and revamped their company and are now making commercial grade appliances built to last, like they used to be in our parents' day.  This washer is built to last and truly is commercial grade.  I went from a top loader to this front loader, and in my hours and hours and hours of reading reviews on every website I could find, I saw that people going from a top loader to front loader that uses less water, had a very hard time believing that the front loader could really wash their clothes clean because they saw through the window that the clothes were not swimming in water.  I can tell you to not let that keep you from going front loader efficient because it gets my clothes cleaner than my old top loader.  I also ready lots of people talking about how front loaders get stinky because they get moldy because the door is so airtight.  Well I haven't had one bit of a problem with that because I always open the washer door and detergent door after clothes are finished washing and leave them open.  Duh. How hard is that?  I've left clothes in it overnight and then opened the door in the morning before dashing off to work and when I get home, the clothes are still fresh as a flower and no mold or mildew. The people who have written about that must keep the door closed so it is wet in there all the time and molds. Again, I have no problem with that whatsoever.  I love the \"sanitary\" wash, the \"power\" wash, and the \"whitest whites\" wash.  I love the way I can wash a king size blanket, king mattress cover, king sheets and pillowcases all in one load and they come out fresh and clean.  I wash pillows and quilts and they come out great. I can wash 10 pair of men's jeans easily.  Not having the agitator in the way makes you have so much more room for clothes. I love the way it has a heater that keeps the water hot for sanitizing and whitest whites. I love the way it spins clothes so \"jet engine\" fast that they are pretty much dry when the washer is done. My kids and husband and I like to watch it still because it's amazing. The dryer is great too and has a steam feature. I use way, way less detergent, which is saving money. I haven't checked my water and sewer bill but it's got to be less. And my dryer runs for a much shorter time.  I have 2 teenage daughters and it has been their job to do laundry for many years, but now I find myself running in there to do laundry because it's actually fun. I know that sounds like a lie but it's not. Every time I do laundry, I come out saying, \"I love my new washer and dryer\".  And I'm thankful to the Good Lord that I was able to buy them.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4398, "id": 116446, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 529, "len_tokens": 703, "text": "There are features on this machine that we dearly love, but the fact that it struggles to stay balanced and get through its spin cycle is so annoying that the love is overpowered by the hate.\n\nVery briefly:  We really like how quiet it is.  We like how little detergent we use.  We love how it treats delicates.  We love how clean it gets our clothes.  We love the sanitizing cycle.  We love the many cycle choices and the choices of settings within most cycles.\n\nNow on to the bad and then the awful:  I think one really needs to adjust their way of thinking when moving from an older top-loading machine to these new very efficient front-loading machines.  Because they work with smaller motors and very little water, the cycles seem very, very long.  The cycles ARE very, very long:  It's a fact that we are going to have to get used to as increasing water shortages force manufacturers to produce these machines that use less and less water.  We have to start thinking around the lengthy cycles; start throwing a load in before we head to bed.  Both the washer and the dryer in this particular \"Duet\" have annoyingly long cycles.\n\nAre you thinking of \"front-loading\" as in your experience with the front-loaders at the laundromat? Don't.  No way can they be considered in any way similar.\n\nThe reason I give it two stars and not five?  The machine unbalances way too easily.  Are you thinking about doing heavy loads?  Rugs?  Don't think of it.  Ain't no way!  I'm not familiar with other front-loaders, but this one--even though it is top-of-the-line--cannot handle my bathroom rugs.  There isn't even a cycle for \"heavy\" or \"rugs\".  There is a \"bulky\" cycle, but it can't handle heavy items.\n\nSometimes I wonder if I'm just asking too much from the washer.  But, then, I do a seemingly simple load (like yesterday when I threw in an average weight sweater with a pair of crop pants) and the machine goes into its rebalancing mode, (for an hour before I realized what was happening), and I say to myself \"This should not be happening.\"  The directions give a lot of helpful advice, but no where near enough to help with this rebalancing issue.  Did I throw in a load that was too heavy?  Too small?  Too many different weights?  Too many different sizes?  Too many articles?  I don't know.  Is the machine unbalanced?  We don't think so:  It runs very quietly and smoothly, with no walking, creeping, or hopping around.\n\nObviously, I'm frustrated.  Do I buy a different front-loader?  Will it work any better?  Should I go without bathroom and throw rugs?  I don't think I should be forced to give them up. I do know that top-loaders are being slowly being discontinued for environmental concerns.  So what to do?  Anyone out there have any luck with front-loaders (for more than a few months)?  Can anyone offer constructive advice on how to properly load this machine to prevent the constant rebalancing?  The last time I looked online at the manufacturer's website, they weren't offering any helpful info, but I've not checked back recently.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4399, "id": 116455, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 597, "len_tokens": 715, "text": "We bought a Whirlpool Duet Washer in 2002 and it did work well for nine years.  When it broke I researched the problem and determined that the outer tub needed to be replaced.  That part alone costs over $400 on the internet and requires complete disassembly of the machine.  I called the Whirlpool Service number on the front of our manual to see what it might cost to have the repair work done.  I explained the situation to Brandy, who told me that our machine qualified for a program that, for a flat fee of $325.91, would pay 100% of the cost of Labor and Materials to repair the machine, no matter what was wrong with it. I was skeptical and reiterated that the cost of parts alone would probably be $500 or more.  She insisted that this program would cover all costs of repair and would include a one year warranty.  She said she could set up a repair appointment as soon as I paid the $325.91.  I just figured that Whirlpool was trying to reestablish some good will for current customers after reading so many negative reviews online about them.  I paid w/a credit card and she scheduled an appointment for two days later w/a local repair company.\n\nThe service guy showed up and spent 5 - 10 minutes looking at the washer and determined that the outer tub did indeed need to be replaced but that he needed authorization to order the parts and do the repairs.  He also said that, in this situation, the company usually just offered a cash settlement according to a formula in the contract based on the age of the appliance.  This, of course, was not what I had agreed to so I called the Company that was administering the contract and spoke to Natalie.  I explained the situation and she did a little research and said that we had a \"Broken Appliance Contract\" and that, yes, the contract would pay 100% of the cost of repairs, extend the warranty one year, and, if the service guy couldn't fix the washer, would pay to replace it with a comparable machine.  She also said that she spoke to Edwin at the Repair Company and that he had already ordered the parts and would be calling me to schedule the actual repair.\n\nTwo days later we get a call from the Company administering the contract and Rose said she could offer us $202.50 instead of doing the repairs because it wouldn't be cost effective for them. I demurred and asked for a supervisor.  Antoine got on the line and apologised that I might have been misinformed about the terms of the contract but I explained to him that two different people from two different companies (Whirlpool and the Contract Administration Co.) had misrepresented the terms of the contract in exactly the same way and that they were perpetrating an organized fraud.  I demanded my money back or that they repair the washer according to the verbal contract I had with Whirlpool.  He agreed to reimburse me $299 which he said was the cost of the contract and wouldn't do more than that.\n\nI called Whirlpool and spoke to a supervisor and insisted that they reimburse the balance of $325.91 and registered a complaint about the fraud that they were running.\n\nThey promised reimbursement checks in 7 to 10 days.  If we don't receive them, they'll have to deal with American Express.\n\nWhirlpool is running a blatant bait and switch fraud and I will never buy another Whirlpool or Maytag product again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4400, "id": 116737, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 629, "len_tokens": 769, "text": "I can't tell you how many reviews on different brands of machines I read before I 'just did it!'  Some of the reviews about this washer and its dryer mate weren't very pleasing.  Complaints about noises, clothes being ripped and torn and etc. My review is thorough.\n\nIt's nearly October and I've been using my W&D set since February. After having used front-load Whirlpool machines for 5+ years and the standard type of machine you'd find in a rental apartment for many years previous I knew what I like and don't like. I feel that if you're ready for a step up in your laundry machines then this is the set for you.\n\nAside from all the rebates available from my electric company and water departments for having purchased HE machines being an extra attraction I was very excited to have my very own washer and dryer again.\n\nAs an experienced user of front-load machines - which develop a 'funky' smell in the wash tub that doesn't go away even after running white vinegar or bleach and the drips that run down the front when you add a forgotten item. The ability to wash a queen size bedspread and the storage drawer (available for an additional fee) was very nice. I wouldn't have a front load set again and not w/o the drawers - bending over for the dryer is enough.  Why do it twice?  It was 'fun' to be able to watch your clothes wash and tumble dry, but it didn't get my clothes any cleaner or drier.\n\nThe Maytag Bravos W&D set is wonderful. I am so glad I bought this set. I would encourage you to ignore the complaints that 'my children's clothes are ripped, still dirty, torn and knotted' and take a chance on this set. I have never had those things happen.\n\nThe wash tub is large and readily accepts queen size blankets. The dryer also accepts a queen size blanket/comforter.  I jest that two small children can fit into the tub for a good washin'!  The lack of center propeller is great, as there isn't anything for your clothes and blankets to get wrapped around. The dryer could also dry two small children.  All in jest of course)\n\nSo - sure I miss the expensive storage drawers under the W&D, but I DO NOT miss the funk and the accessorized (clear door inserts) doors.  I am quite fond of my Maytag Bravos W&D.  They do their jobs efficiently. My complaints about this set would be that....another color at no charge would be nice and that I miss the start delay option.\n\nUPDATE - After having had this set of machine nearly two years...  I have a couple complaints - not too major, but worthy of noting.  1. I wish I didn't have to push a button to get all the lights on the display to turn off.  2.  The little drawer where the soaps are put in, and the lip on the machine under the lift top get gross far too frequently for me.  I feel like I'm always wiping them down.  3.  If your tired and worn out after a long day, don't do laundry., especially bed linens.  You will need to use your muscles to unwind your wash before putting them in the dryer.\n\nAs I mentioned in my review of the matching dryer: I don't recall complaining about my simple and plain big top load washer and dryer I bought from JCP 15 yrs ago.  If I could have found a set of machines I thought I'd been happy with at a lower price I would of have bought them.  (I sold them to a friend when I moved from one state to another.  She probably still has them.)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4401, "id": 120328, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 582, "len_tokens": 715, "text": "Let's face it - washing machines are not what they used to be.\n\nThe most important thing for me is something that works, that cleans my clothes and cleans them well - I don't need a bunch of fancy buttons with a bunch of fancy sort of cycles that I really won't use.\n\nI think I have owned this Maytag washer for about, say four years, generously numbered. I purchased it, thinking it was a Maytag, a brand that used to be the Louis Vuitton of American household appliances. A few things here and there Maytag produces are still worthwhile, but most of what they make now is disappointing, to be nice. Especially their washing machines.\n\nI liked the fact that this washer was large inside - you can get a good amount of laundry in here if you're the type of person who will fill a machine to maximum capacity. Clothes moved around with enough water between them to comfortably clean without knotting and tangling. It's the most basic machine available out there - it has hot/warm/cold water, three cycles (super/ultra, normal, and gentle), an extra rinse, so on and so forth.\n\nHowever the relative simplicity, which is a relief as most washing machines - even the traditional standard top loaders - have so many buttons and temperatures and things it gets to point of being ridiculous, covers up the iffy craftsmanship. If you're looking for a reliable machine that's tough and can last 10+ years, this isn't it.\n\nThe machine is not quiet. It's not unbearably noisy, but it generates enough sound you can still hear it, especially downstairs where it is located. The spin cycle is actually pretty silent, but the general wash? Not so much. It's mainly the agitator. Though, as time went on, the machine began to do weird things - little stuff at first that bothered me, disappearing and then reappearing again until they became permanent.\n\nFirst, it was the water sensors. If you used the cold a lot, then the hot water would not work properly (would switch between lukewarm/hot). Use hot a lot, the cold doesn't work, so on and so forth. I also never understood why the warm water burst out in a generous stream whilst the hot and cold would trickle out very, very slowly?\n\nFinally, the water sensors completely broke - and it was only boiling hot water (and when I say boiling, I mean boiling) for a few months sporadically until everything just completely shut off.\n\nAnd now, the agitator is broken. There are two sections to the agitator that causes the movement of the clothes within the tub - on the bottom of the machine is a slightly raised pan-sort of thing with fins that spins the clothes from downward, whilst the protruding center brings them back upwards, allowing clothes of different weights to move freely within the tub. I noticed that the agitator was making a horrible, grating sort of noise and I didn't hear the usual splish-splash of clothes moving around in the tub. Found out the bottom raised pan had completely stopped moving, and the agitator just jerks around rather sadly while the clothes float in the water. Stuff comes out semi-clean, but there's no agitation to lift away stains or work detergent through clothes.\n\nAll-in-all, I really wanted to love this machine, but, it had way too many issues. Seriously, think a bit before buying a Maytag, they aren't what they used to be.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4402, "id": 120880, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 569, "len_tokens": 720, "text": "I happily owned a Maytag for 20 years, then purchased this disappointing Whirlpool less than 3 years ago - neither with an extended warranty.  When it was installed and demonstrated, I commented that it was rather noisy but the installer assured me that it was normal for this model.  My husband and I are not home six months a year, our house sitter does maybe two small loads of laundry per week and yet the machine failed in less than three years.\n\nIn October the hot water setting stopped working.  Also I carefully sort my clothes by color, water temp, and weight i.e. delicates, towels, whites, etc. but during the wash and rinse cycles, the machine started to made sounds like it was horribly off-balance but no amount of rearranging corrected it, and each time I tried I had difficulty unlocking and restarting the cycle.  I had been noticing that my whites were not getting white even with bleach, while some other light colored clothes were coming out dingy; I chalked that up to the detergent.  Sometimes I would remove \"cleaned\" items that crackled, which I now know was soap residue.  When my husband called for service, the repairman quoted $400+ for repairs.\n\nWe decided to shop for a new machine.  I was disgusted when the Lowe's (where it was purchased) Appliance Sales Rep told me that today's machines are expected to last only six years, regardless whether I paid $500 or $1000!  I asked what he thought about one lasting less than three years?  His reply, \"Did you purchase and extended warranty?\"  I was appalled and told him that my last Maytag washer lasted 20 years; his reply, \"If they lasted that long there wouldn't be an appliance department in Lowe's.\"  Constructively, he did suggest I go on-line and check people's reviews for this machine, then contact Whirlpool.\n\nWe were shocked to discover that 75% of the reviews on Amazon.com, Lowe's, and another site were strongly negative about this model and we agreed with most all of them - noise, poor cleaning, low water, the insufferable locking lid, and repair cost quotes.\n\nThen we spent a week grudgingly shopping for a new washing machine, then coming home and checking reviews.  Finally, I decided to look for a simpler top-loading machine with a real agitator, manual water select, dial controls, and a non-locking lid.  We adjusted our expectations, which meant the machine would last only six years (mentally, my husband calculated and accrued the cost per year to do laundry) and anything longer would be a bonus.  AND we purchased a FIVE year extended warranty (Be sure to add this cost to the machine price for actual price comparisons as we found a significant difference between Sears, Best Buy and Home Depot.  Also consider whether the store will still be around in five years!)\n\nIn conclusion, I selected a GE - GTWN4250D1WS that was delivered this week.  The hot water setting worked fine along with the warm and cold settings; the agitator works; the wash and rinse cycles don't sound like a jet plane; and I could open the lid while the tub filled to rinse out the detergent cup!  My first use was a large, white with bleach load that took 50 minutes and suddenly my whites were a lot cleaner.  The second load was a small and delicate that too 40 minutes. I am hopeful :)", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4403, "id": 121098, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 586, "len_tokens": 702, "text": "Just bought this Maytag to replace an aging old style top loader. Our first few loads have been interesting as we learn the in and outs of using an HE top-loader. After reading many reviews (on numerous models) you'd expect your clothes to be destroyed in these things. Let me just confirm that that is not the case in any way. This model is a bit loud as it performs it's numerous clicks and spins but that's normal. Sans extreme soundproofing to the internals I (an engineer) can not think of how you can make something like this quiet. I will say we spent longer leveling the washer than setting up any other appliance in our house. It pays to do this since it spins so %*#@ fast! In fact it reminds me of the movie Thor when he spins his hammer... we halfway expect lighting to shoot out of it at any moment.\n\nNow for the newbies that aren't sure how these HE units are \"supposed\" to work. On normal cycles they add just enough water as to not detect further water in the drum/tub e.g. all water should saturate the clothing. The washer will spin on occasion as it adds water because the nerds that design these things know that you need to run the dryer portions of the pile under the running water to saturate it. So, accept that your clothing will look almost dry when it's washing on normal. Now, on bulk setting it'll pretty much submerge your pile. All while wasting water that to me at-least is expensive to waste. If your on a well and just like to see water, then leave it on bulk I guess. But the clothes are just as clean as if I had used my old power hungry commercial rated top loader with the agitator clothing torture device.\n\nYou really need to define what clean means to you anyway. If you have filthy kids and don't pre-treat your stains then I dunno if this will get them out. But for normal people/families with normal levels of dirt/soil then this is a great money saver! I got my set at Lowes for about $1200. If you pay $2000 and up on a set, you know the ones with TV screens on em, your probably going to expect too much to say the least.\n\nThe only complaint so far is that the soap dispenser tray doesn't seem to drain the added water completely (though all the soap is dispensed properly) so I don't know if this will be a mold/mildew issue. Probably not if you use it as often as we do.\n\nPlease spread the word if you've learned anything about HE washers from this. Some of the reviews I read when researching makes me think there is a real lack of understanding (uncommon sense) about these units. And those reviews should be removed.\n\nUpdate: as of 4/02/2015 this set is still kicking butt! I really can't complain. The soap dispenser does collect mold/mildew but it looks like they all do. We leave ours open after a load is pushed through and keep the top up so it all dries out. Otherwise no issues after 2 years. We run the Afresh things once in awhile. Seems to help the washer smell good but otherwise not sure it does much.\n\nNot sure if we just got a great set or the other reviews are just that skewed. You really never know what to trust these days.\n\nGod Bless!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4404, "id": 121298, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 574, "len_tokens": 713, "text": "I have been using a round bottomed wok on my Kenmore/Whirlpool stove -- the stove for which this wok ring is designed -- without much stability problem for years.  Then I decided to give this a try.  It works very well, and I have come to love it....\n\nBUT there was a rough spot at the beginning of our relationship.  The heavy cast iron of this wok ring has a very abrasive surface; the roughness is equivalent to a coarse grinding pad. As I cooked and moved the wok around, the four prongs upon which the wok sits were grinding the surface of my beautiful carbon steel wok.  Other reviewers have noted this problem. Some scratching would not be a problem, but this was not just scratching.  It was really GRINDING the surface of the wok, and it was far too much to accept for long-term use.\n\nMy solution was to take out a file and smooth the the prongs that support the wok.  That made a big difference in the relationship; wok and ring are now mating happily.  If this is a problem for you too, do this: Coat the wok with a generous amount of cooking oil.  Then put it on the wok ring, move the wok around, and take it off.  Notice where the the wok rested on the four prongs of the wok ring by the oil stains left at the contact areas.  Take a file, and smooth these areas down.\n\nIt took about thirty minutes to file the contact areas smooth. My arm was sore at the end of the task.  But now my wok sits and moves well on the ring.  The ring does not grind the wok surface, though it does of course leave some normal scratching.\n\nMy five-star rating takes into account this simple modification.  Without the modification to smooth the ring prongs, I was reluctant to use this wok ring -- and I suppose that would be a three-star rating, at best.\n\nAnd I will add a bonus suggestion.  The Whirlpool or Maytag stove burner for which this ring is designed works very well with a wok, with a slight modification.  This is probably also true for other stove models. The gas burners on this (and similar stoves) have a top flame diffusion plate, which is easily removed -- it simply lifts off.  On the high-output burner, one can take off the diffusion plate, light the gas jet (light it on LOW setting), and then cook on a jet flame that is PERFECT for wok cooking.\n\nI have attached several photos to show this.  Is it safe to do this, you ask?  I have used it this way for years to cook on the wok, but it is not something suggested in the operation manual of the stove.  Give it a try, and use your own judgment. This provides a big gas jet flame, and you must be cautious when cooking with it.  And it works only on the high-output burner.\n\nLook at the photos. The first photo shows the file, and the smoothed wok ring prong.  The second photo shows the gas flame on low with the diffusion plate removed.  The third photo is taken with the burner turned to high -- note that this is a big flame.  The fourth and last photo shows the wok sitting on the ring, with the gas jet turned on high.  This is perfect for wok cooking.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4405, "id": 121945, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 526, "len_tokens": 729, "text": "Nearly two years ago I purchased and began using my&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/NewAir-AI100BK-Portable-Icemaker/dp/B0017Y8X3O/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">NewAir AI100BK Portable Icemaker</a>. For two years it faithfully supported my frappe habit, saving me countless amounts of money by bringing me ice for my&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Mr-Coffee-BVMC-FM1-20-Ounce-Frappe-Maker/dp/B002FWMF8G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Mr. Coffee BVMC-FM1 20-Ounce Frappe Maker</a>. I was happy.\n\nHowever all good things (and electrical products) come to an end, and after nursing it along for three months, it quietly died. I grieved and then moved on.\n\nI chose the Polar because it opens in the front, fitting under my counters better, and actually holds about the same amount of ice. The drain for the water is underneath, allowing an easy way to empty it. It makes ice just as fast as my previous one, if anything, while this is smaller, it seems to be even better insulated. The poles that freeze the water are inside where they can't be touched by children.\n\nThe guidelines state that you should clean it (bleach in water) regularly, and give instructions on saving your ice once the basket is full. It also recommends emptying it if you aren't using the ice. Since I let my previous maker run continuously, with the ice melting into the bottom and being remade, not only is this a better choice for health, but it will likely prolong the use.\n\nTo fill this ice maker you remove the drawer and fill the bottom. It comes with a pitcher which makes it easy to do, it also includes a scoop for the ice. You then plug it in and it makes ice ... Three choices of sizes. It doesn't state that you need to use any specific water, but the flavor of ice is dependent upon the water you use. When the drawer is full or the reservoir of water gets too low, a light comes on and it stops making ice. If the drawer is full (about 1/2 gallon of ice), put the ice in a ziplock bag and it will keep making ice. If you don't remove your ice it slowly melts back into the reservoir.\n\nI thought parts were missing when mine first arrived, only to discover that the cord and pitcher were in the reservoir ... The scoop was in the drawer.\n\nI have ice again. I am happy.\n\nEdited - I have noticed that once my drawer is full, I need to push the stop and start button to get it to start making ice again. If I don't, it takes awhile to reset. I have also noticed that this particular model is more efficient when it makes the cubes, so I now keep my setting on medium cubes.\n\nThe other model began to immediately make ice once it fell below a certain level, so that it always had ice. This particular model focuses on making ice to be frozen. As a result, if I want guaranteed ice at any given moment in time, I need to empty it into the bags and freezer.\n\nFinal edit - stars removed. It was great while it lasted, but died after less than 5 months use. Going back to the New Air.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4406, "id": 121981, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 598, "len_tokens": 740, "text": "We have a small travel trailer with a decent sized refrigerator/freezer, but there are some things for which there is no substitute and we still need ice.  I cleaned my Polar with vinegar water instead of bleach and it seemed to do the trick.  I let a whole cycle run with the vinegar water, then I drained, cleaned and refilled the tank with plain filtered water.  I threw that batch of ice away, too.  I've frozen two subsequent batches.\n\nHere's what I've learned about my unit:  It thinks the tank is empty when there's still a half inch of water in the bottom.  That's been consistent.  This is not a big deal for me.  I just drain and refill the tank.  The draining probably isn't necessary, but I want to start each cycle with clean water.  As someone else mentioned, there are some drips when you remove the ice basket, but knowing that means I just have a dish towel there to catch it.  I've placed the cubes in a freezer bag and put them in the freezer.  Yes, they do stick together because they're still a little wet, but one bang on the counter top after they're solidly frozen takes care of that and they stay separated.  The ice tastes fine and I experienced no overwhelming plastic odor from the housing of the unit, but I got the stainless model, rather than the white one.  It looks great on the counter top, BTW.  I've made all size cubes and don't really know why I need that choice, so I just settled on the medium.  Yes, there's some noise with the ice making process, but here is where I start to realize that it matters WHY you purchase this device.  For me, it's a way to make ice in the woods or on the lake, while we're camping.  I'm thrilled not to have to keep ice in a cooler or take up room in the freezer of my rv frig, trying to make ice.  I can use the stored cubes to help keep my rv frig and freezer cold and all I need to save in the freezer to get started on our next occasion is a couple of small freezer bags of ice.  The machine can keep up after that.  What can I say....we like ice in our iced tea and we like our white wine chilled on ice.  I can make smoothies if I have ice.\n\nOur frig at home makes ice and it's different ice.  It's harder, more frozen and isn't drippy.  In the past, I've filled freezer bags with ice from home and put them in the rv freezer, but there's only enough room for it to last a couple of days and our trips are longer than that.  If you're planning to use this machine for camping or rving, it's terrific.  If you envision using it to supplement the ice production of your home frig, you may be disappointed.  It looks great, works as advertised and I love it, so far.  I'm saving the box and packing material just in case it doesn't last the year that it promises.\n\nI'm in my third day of ice production.  I have tried both methods of stopping ice production:  unplug the unit and hit stop.  It doesn't seem to matter much...when I empty the ice drawer or run low on water, I still have to hit stop, then start to get it going again.  We have a very long trip planned starting next month and will update if there are problems.  No news is good news.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4407, "id": 135851, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 582, "len_tokens": 719, "text": "Save money on repairs - fix it yourself!\n\nDoes one or more of your heating burner/elements not heat up unless you jiggle it just right?\nIf so, then you might want to consider replacing the receptacle, and maybe the burner too.\n\nPull out the burner and look at the ends where they go into the receptacle. If they aren't nice and smooth, then you probably want to replace the burner too. (Especially if it looks rough and partly melted.) Burners are cheap - $10-$15 here on Amazon.\n\nOK, is it really as simple as using a screwdriver? Pretty much.\n\nPull out the stove.\n++++ Unplug it from the wall. ++++\n Optional: Clean 20 years of crumbs and forgotten toys...)\nTake off the burners and drip trays.\nLift up the range and you can see the old receptacles.\nNote that the wires go toward the temperature knobs for each burner.\n  (On your stove, this may be toward the back or toward the front.)\nUse the screwdriver to remove any access panel(s) so you can follow the wires.\nPut the screws in a bowl so you don't lose them.\nNow you can see where the wires have push-connects near the temperature knobs.\n\nNow that you've seen the whole project, you can start to replace the receptacles one at a time.\nSee how the old receptacles are held on by a screw on the bracket?\nUnscrew the one you are going to replace.\nNow use the same screw to put the new bracket on. (You have new brackets, might as well use them.)\n\nNow look at the old receptacle hanging down.\n++++ Double check to make sure you unplugged the stove, and that none of the curious children has plugged it back in... ++++\nIf you have wire cutters, or even kitchen scissors, you can cut the old wires away from the old receptacle.\nPull/fish those wires out toward the knobs, but leave them connected at the knobs for now.\n\nNow look at the kit. The receptacle and the wires are separate when you get them, but the wires simply push into the back of the receptacle with a click. It might take a bit of force to push them in, but they will go in if they are aligned correctly.\n\nSnap the new, wired receptacle into the new bracket that you've installed on the stove.\nPut the new wires where the old ones went, following the same path.\nYou want any extra wire to be behind the panel, not under your stovetop.\nUnplug the old wires and plug the new ones in where they were. (It doesn't matter which wire goes to which connector.)\n  Optional: You can coil up the extra wire and use tape/rubber band/zip-tie to keep it neat.\n\n  Tip: If this is the last receptacle replacement, you can spiral-wrap the wires around the rest of the wires to keep them neat. That way you won't be tempted to use zip ties or tape under your stove top.\n\nRe-assemble the access panels, drip trays etc...  You'll probably have to spread the new bracket apart a bit to get the burner into the new receptacle, and use a bit more force than you are used to with the old set up. It's new and tight.\n\nNow you can plug the stove back in, and slide it back into place.\n\nTest it.\nDoes it work? Of course it does!\nCongratulations! You just saved yourself $$$ you would have spent on an appliance repair man!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4408, "id": 138120, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 518, "len_tokens": 730, "text": "It does fit and works as a replacement for the OEM filter, but the measurements are slightly different.\nLG: 12 3/16\" long, 59.1mm diameter\nSwift Green: 12 7/16\" long, 51.7mm diameter\n\nSo the Swift Green is 1/4\" longer and 7.4mm (just over 1/4\") narrower than the LG.  Due to the smaller diameter it will look like the filter is too small and won't fit properly when you go to put it in.  Don't worry, it fits, there will just be some space around the filter due to the smaller diameter.  It will also take a few seconds to get the inner portion of the filter to line up properly to lock it into place.  Once locked in place, it doesn't move and is just fine.\n\nMy refrigerator is the LG LMX21981ST.  It is a counter depth model, so it is shallower than normal.  It also has the water and ice maker on the door which take up some of the interior room.  All of that combines to mean there is very little space between the filter and the ice maker door when the refrigerator door is closed.  The extra length of the Swift Green fits, but it sticks out far enough to hit the ice machine door.  I only found out because the main refrigerator doors were making a different sound than normal when they closed and I wanted to find out why.\n\nIf you're wondering to yourself if your refrigerator is counter depth or not then it probably isn't.  I found out when buying mine that even though counter depth units are smaller, because fewer are built and sold they actually cost more.  Annoying.\n\nFrom the box, these are the specifications:\nMax operating temp: 38C/100F\nMin operating temp: 0.6C/33F\nMax working pressure: 689 kPa/100 psi\nMin working pressing: 140 kPa/20 psi\nRated capacity: 2,271 litres/600 gallons  (LG filter is rated for 300 gallons)\nFlow rate: 1.9 lpm/0.5 gpm\nEstimated % reduction:\nLead - 95%\nCysts - 99%\nChlorine taste & odor - 95%\nTurbidity - 95%\nAsbestos - 95%\nAtrazine - 95%\nAlachlor - 95%\nLindane - 95%\n2,4-D - 95%\nMercury - 95%\nToxaphene - 95%\nP-Dichlorobenzene - 95%\nBenzene - 95%\n\nIt also says it keeps a healthy level of fluoride in the water from fluoridated municipal tap water.\n\nLast, when you go to replace this filter there will be a bit more water leakage from the filter when you remove it.  It doesn't lock water inside the filter to quite the same degree as the LG filter.  If you normally use a towel to catch the drips during a filter change, at the very least double up the towel.  A paper towel alone won't suffice.  If the area is free, you could also use a bowl or cup to catch the water and then just wipe up the remainder after it finishes draining.  Would definitely be easier.\n\nIf you have a counter depth refrigerator with the ice maker on the door, I recommend sticking with the OEM filter.  If not, I can't think of any reason why you shouldn't try this filter.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4409, "id": 148151, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 614, "len_tokens": 744, "text": "This is the infamous Whirlpool/Kitchenaid thermal fuse that blows when you run the cleaning cycle on the Kitchenaid KGSA906PSS range. You know, the problem everyone has, but Kitchenaid denies even happens; the reason I'll not buy Kitchenaid appliances again. All because of this fuse. Or rather, the poor implementation of the fuse into the design.\n\nAnyway, when it blows about an hour into the cleaning cycle because by design the oven gets so hot it blows the fuse (good job, Kitchenaid!), the door will remain locked closed and the timer display will go black. No clock, no controls. The burners will still light. That means power is getting to the stove, but the oven will be dead.\nSo if you need the oven, you are out of luck. DO NOT CLEAN THIS OVEN if you need it within a week.\n\nYou will have to turn off the gas, unplug the power and disconnect the supply pipe from the range (I do that by removing the storage drawer and reaching underneath to disconnect from the range) then pull the range out enough so you can get behind it. There's a 24\"x24\" panel on the back held on with about 15 black square drive screws and an upper panel that is held on by a few Phillips drive screws. After removing the panels, you can see the fuse, attached to the back of the oven box, waiting for you to run the cleaning cycle so it can blow and cost you $40.\n\nAfter I got the replacement part reinstalled and put all the screws back in, plugged it in and reconnected the gas, everything worked as before.\n\nSo I went out to the garage and took the blown fuse apart. It's a shame you cannot reset the fuse. There's no real reason you can't except they didn't design a little reset button into the fuse.\n\nThe fuse \"blows\" when a little bimetal disc inside the fuse heats up and pops like a bottle cap, which allows a little plastic piston to move. This in turn allows two electrical contacts to separate. This turns off the power to the display, leaves the door locked and shuts off the gas to the stove. The oven then cools down, but the fuse stays in the \"off\" mode.\n\nAfter replacing the part and getting the oven to work, I broke the Bakelite open on the old fuse to see the innards. All I really needed to do was drill a tiny hole through the metal outer cap (but not through the bimetal) then poke a toothpick into the hole and pop the bimetal disc back into its original shape. It's not worth the trouble, but in a real pinch, it might work. The other way is to jumper over the two contacts, but of course, that's not recommended. We've had this range since 2005, though, and the fuse never blew before...because we never ran the cleaning cycle. So the fuse is there only in case you run the cleaning cycle. Apparently the oven box gets so hot during the normal cleaning cycle by design it can't stand it.\n\nBoth my wife and I live-chatted with Kitchen reps. They asked if an electrical fuse had popped at the box and other lame excuses, all while denying there was any reported problem. But a quick net search shows many people have had this problem. It's big enough that Amazon carries this one part and \"8300802\" returns a lot of hits.\n\nI'm glad Amazon had the part. It got here in a hurry and it was the right part. Kitchenaid needs to stick with stand mixers and get out of the appliance biz.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4410, "id": 148779, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 577, "len_tokens": 705, "text": "Short story: The dishwasher is OK when it worked, I essentially agree with the 5-star reviews. The problem is that if your dishwasher breaks within the warranty period, dealing with Danby will be a pain.\n\nLong story:\nSince day 1, the dishwasher had issues with the panel, where multiple lights would go on, start randomly flashing, or the unit would stop responding altogether. However, turning the dishwasher off then on would often fix the issue. As time went by these incidents became more frequent and eventually the dishwasher stopped working 4 months later. I signed up on Danby's website in November 2015 to seek further assistance, but in doing so I found a *MAJOR* security flaw which I reported to Danby(more on that later) and asked that my personal information be erased from their system.\n\nOne surprising fact is that the dishwasher came with \"carry-in\" service, at first I thought it was perhaps a mistake, but it was not. This is puzzling to me because the dishwasher is as heavy and as large as many other products to which Danby offers \"in-home\" service. As others have noted, it is not a small dishwasher, it is quite big. It will not be easy to carry it around. It also doesn't fit in all cars, it did not fit in mine. What's odd is that Danby's website says this exact quote:\n\n\"To ensure our customers are taken care of, Danby proudly offers the industrys longest warranty and extended warranty options. Our products include standard 12 month, 18 month and 24 month warranties that include parts, labour and in-home service. Were here to keep you moving forward.\"\n\nBut the DDW611WLED does not come with in-home service, you will be asked to carry it yourself to a third-party servicer. You also have to call the servicers yourself and negotiate all kinds of stuff, and chances are this will be a horrible experience. It was for me. Danby will not help you with getting service, they wash their hands clean of the whole process and only give you phone numbers of nearby servicers. You will have to carry the dishwahser back and forth to the servicer. If the dishwasher was not repairable, you will be required to ship it to Danby at your own expense for a replacement. That will cost you a significant amount.\n\nFor the reasons above, if you are not in a situation to drive this heavy dishwasher around (student, elderly, etc...) do not buy it, otherwise it will be a nightmare to get it repaired if it breaks within the warranty period. There are a lot of complaints on the internet relating to Danby's warranty services. I didn't think about warranty service before buying the dishwasher, but I learned my lesson.\n\nBack to the *MAJOR* security flaw. If you signed up on Danby's website, your customer's personal information was not being properly secured. They were leaking it to everyone. I notified them of this, although I did get a response after one month it was still not fixed. When I pressed them further their reaction was very offensive and insulting which turned me off from dealing with them in any shape or form. I was very disappointed with their low ethical standards.\n\nI don't know if they fixed this flaw now, but if you do buy a Danby product, I suggest you avoid signing up on their website. They don't seem to value personal information and privacy.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4411, "id": 148954, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 633, "len_tokens": 784, "text": "Before I bought this product, I had many doubts and it was hard to find this information. I waited 2 months of daily use to give this review, to be sure about the product, and here is the information that I will clarify for you:\n\n* 1) Size of the dishes\n* 2) How does it drain?\n* 3) Type of detergent\n\nI had to check all this, because I didn't have the necessary conditions to have the dishwasher. For starters, it didn't fit under my counter-top, and my university (I live in the campus residences) doesn't allow us to make changes to the furniture instalments. Hereare the adaptations I made, and I got to tell you that the dishwasher is an excellent product. It leaves everything so clean, dry and I don't have to waste my time washing dishes any more.\n\n1) First I had a Corelle dinnerware with squared dishes (the model is called bamboo leaf, if it is any reference to anybody). Well, they didn't fit right in the dishwasher. I had do lean them over a bit and leave one space free between every plate, which made me use the double of the space and if the plate was too near the detergent dispenser, sometimes it wouldn't open properly and it will make a mess. So, in the end, I changed the dinnerware and bought another Corelle with round plates and it worked perfectly (I bought it for $20 in a great sale of Walmart)! the dishes fit neatly and I can wash the whole set in one go, and it leaves enough free space for glasses and some other dishes (the model of the dinnerware that I bought is the 'Corelle livingware squared 16-pc dinnerware set', which has rounded plates, and the size description is: Squared 16-Piece Set includes 4 each: 10-1/4\" Dinner Plates, 6-3/4\" Bread & Butter Plates, 18-oz Soup / Cereal Bowls, 11-oz Stoneware Mugs.\n\n2) To drain it has a pump inside. This was important for me because the dishwasher didn't fit under my counter-top, so I bought a small table with wheels and put the dishwasher there. So, My counter-top has the same original free space, which is great, and I only move the table once a day to plug the dishwasher to the kitchen's faucet (it is super easy to connect because it has a very convenient adapter, so you plug it and unplug it in less than 5 seconds), and the rest of the time the table is in a free space in my kitchen next to a wall. The important thing here is that the draining is done trough a pump, so it doesn't matter that the table is about 15 cm lower than the sink, it always drains properly.\n\n3) The type of detergent is VERY important. This dishwasher doesn't heat water as much as others, for which it is very important to buy a detergent that works at temperatures of 50C (122 F). I first bought a gel cheap detergent and didn't read that it worked for temperatures over 60C, and the dishes came out a bit dirty. So, in the end I bought the 'Finish Quantum tablets' and it leaves the dishes sparkling clean! they come out perfect and bright, and I haven't pre-washed any of my dishes ever! I only take out big pieces of leftovers, put the dishes inside, and that's about it. Although, I have to mention this: I had to make a small adaptation, because the tablets are a bit big to fit in the dispenser, so I broke the small plastic that divided the two sections of the detergent dispenser so that the tablet fitted and could come out comfortably.\n\nI really love this product, and I recommend it to anybody!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4412, "id": 148974, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 660, "len_tokens": 749, "text": "I read many of the reviews for this dishwasher as well as another brand and there were many negative and positive reviews. I thought about it for a few days and decided to risk purchasing this brand. I was worried about it turning into a big hunk of junk but I HATE doing dishes by hand so it was worth the risk to me. My boyfriend and I live in a VERY small apartment so this machine is the perfect size. It's about three times the size of a microwave so it does hog counter space. I have mine in a spot that doesn't have an upper cabinet so I'm able to put things on top of the dishwasher like my mixer and blender which is a plus.\n\nSo, my boyfriend was able to carry the heavy box by himself up the flight of stairs to our apartment. It was well packaged in an ordinary brown box and then inside that box was styrofoam sheets for padding around the dishwasher box. It was going well until my eyes set on a HUGE DENT in the side of the machine!! I was soooo mad especially since both boxes were not damaged at all! HOW DID THIS HAPPEN!!? I should have gave it four stars just for that alone. I have read this in other reviews so I was worried that mine would be dented as well and it was. It's not worth sending back since a replacement will probably be dented as well. I got lucky though because the dent is on the left side toward the back so it's not too noticeable unless you're standing at my sink. I'm still irritated by it though since this machine was so expensive.\n\nAnyway, my boyfriend set it up quickly and used plumbers tape at all the connections. So far we've ran it three times with no leaks. The machine is NOT noisy as some others have stated. The only loud part is when the water comes rushing out from the hookup at the faucet and that's to be expected. I find the lulling of the machine to be no different than a regular dishwasher. You do have to rinse the dishes very well before you load them since it doesn't remove any stuck on foods. I didn't do this the first two times I ran it and had to hand wash all those dishes. I used a whole dishwasher detergent tablet (by Finish...but I'll be changing to something more eco-friendly) and some rinse aid. We have really bad well water so the detergent worked really well with the rinse aid. No residue or any spots and everything came out really clean. I didn't have any trouble with loading the dishes and some people stated that their large plates wouldn't fit. My large plates fit but it is a tight fit. The plates are just barely touching the top of the machine and you don't have to lean them over. Leaning them over actually won't allow them to be cleaned properly. It does hold quite a bit and I'm able to run it every few other day or so. The silverware caddy is removable and it has two sides and each side is devided so there are four spots to put silverware and etc. Two of the sections are raised slightly higher than the other two which is great for smaller/shorter items. The caddy also had a snap on cover on each of its sides which I removed since I don't have anything tiny to be washed like bottle nipples and etc. The machine is sturdy and does not wobble. The door takes a hard tug to get it open and the buttons are easy to use and understand. The run time is pretty long at an hour and a half but I don't mind. So far it's a great little machine and I'll update this review that I continue to use it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4413, "id": 156492, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 561, "len_tokens": 716, "text": "BEWARE!  This control board is neither made by Whirlpool, nor is it a factory specification part authorized by the manufacturer to repair their appliances.\n\nAs of the date of this review, take a good look at that picture of the part by enlarging it.  You can clearly see the letters FSP inside the parallelogram outline.  This indicates it is a Factory Specification Part, and it is printed on both circuit boards.  This influenced my decision to purchase it, as it would mean it isn't a generic or rebuilt junk part, which in my opinion are inferior.  I wanted Whirlpool, as the one that failed is original and lasted 9 years.\n\nThe product description is equally deceptive, as it uses the Whirlpool part number followed by \"Genuine Replacement Part\".  It is genuine in the fact that it does exist.  It ISN'T genuine Whirlpool or genuine FSP, which the use of \"genuine\" alludes to without actually stating it.\n\nUpon getting my package, I noticed that the parts box didn't have any Whirlpool writing or markings on it.  That didn't bode well, but I opened the box.  Inside were a set of directions printed on a piece of paper, which also had no manufacturer markings.  The two circuit boards were in separate anti static bags, luckily see through.  Both parts were of course lacking my above criteria.  I didn't have to open the bags, so I immediately filed to return these items. I am not pleased that I have to eat the shipping back to partshouse because the picture is not of the actual item you receive and the description is deceptive in conjunction with the picture.  DON'T buy if you are picky about your replacement parts.  But if you like to roll the dice with a part that may not last as long as a factory part, by all means buy this.\n\nEdit on 4/26/13**If you purchase this from seller \"partshouse\" like I did, not only do you have to pay to ship it back, the guy has the gall to charge you a 20% restocking fee, even though it was his misleading description and picture that convinced me to buy it.  I'd liken that to bait and switch.  Amazon made it right, but they should think about suspending this company's privileges to sell on Amazon.  BTW, the picture and description haven't been updated to reflect this is a knockoff part yet.\n\nI ended up getting the correct part off of the famous auction site for roughly another $30 from another seller, who actually sold OEM parts and it was so worth it.\n\n**Edit 8/18/13**  I am revisiting my review because it looks like seller \"partshouse\" isn't listed as a seller for this item anymore.  However they apparently are still selling on Amazon as a whole.  I will temper my original review by letting you, the reader, know that I paid $34.95 for the knock off part.  It looks like this could now be the correct factory specification part because the price is now $20 more than what I paid.  That being said, I would just advise due diligence in purchasing, but other new reviewers are saying it looks good to go from their experiences.  Hey, at least you know what to look for when your item arrives!  If it doesn't pass muster, send it back if you don't feel comfortable with it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4414, "id": 157771, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 595, "len_tokens": 748, "text": "This gas valve was a perfect replacement for my whirlpool range/oven (GFG461LVS2). However, it turned out that replacing this part didn't contribute toward solving my problem at all.  No fault of the part, which was perfect, hence the 5 star rating.\n\nTo hep others that might encounter the same symptoms, I'm posting my experience here:\nMy symptoms:\nOven bake operation worked for about 20 minutes or so with proper ignition and flame. After 20 minutes, the oven bake flame would ignite and then immediately go out. The oven attempts ignition 3 times with this result (immediatily shutting down the flame automatically), then gives up using the bake flame and locks it off. The lockout can be reset by pressing the stop button. No other indication is given on the display when the lockout occurrs, so it looks as if your oven is still operating normally, even though it is slowly cooling down. You might not notice it until you go to remove the roast/brisket/turkey/etc. from the oven a couple hours later and find that the oven is cold...\n\nAttempted fixes:\nBased on the sound of the oven attempting to bake (3 attempts, with quick shutoff of the gas after each attempt), I thought the ignitor perhaps wasn't igniting the flame properly, so I purchased a new spark ignitor. This is a reasonable first attempt since ignitors tend to take the brunt of wear in the oven and are cheap and easy to replace. However, this did not fix the problem or change the symptoms.\n\nIf I had opened the floor of the oven and observed the flame, I would have noticed that the flame was igniting fine (sometimes took 2 attempts, but flame worked). The problem is that the oven shuts off the gas after the flame starts. My next guess, based on further research on the internet, was to replace the gas regulator valve (this product, which is the next cheapest part), which I did. That also did not fix or change the symptoms.\n\nAfter further research and this new evidence, I discovered that the problem must be in the part of the system that detects that there is a flame. If the oven does not detect a flame, it shuts off the gas valve. In my range/oven (GFG461LVS2), this flame detection happens through the spark ignitor. Since I had replaced the ignitor (this product) already, I trusted it was good. The next possible cause of the problem must be the circuit board that operates the ignitor, which also detects the flame through the ignitor circuit.\n\nI finally replaced the spark ignition module circuit board (part 9758080) and that solved the problem. This circuit board can have failures that produce the symptom of failing to detect a flame after the oven warms up (which also warms the circuit board).\n\nIf you are having the symptoms I had (oven works 20-ish minutes, then fails to properly detect the flame, even though flame is ignited properly), then I recommend buying a new ignitor (could be the flame sense thermocouple in the ignitor), then replace the spark control momdule if that doesn't fix it. Don't waste time/money on the valve for this particular symptom.\n\nAnother note: Even replacing all three parts as I did (ignitor, valve, circuit board) is still cheaper than a new comparable range/oven purchase, so it is economical if you don't mind putting your own time into the replacement. Also, the parts are not too difficult to replace with medium home-handy-man skills (I'm not a professional repair person) and average tools.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4415, "id": 159051, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 556, "len_tokens": 794, "text": "This part was used to replace the oven the igniter on a 13 year old Maytag model MGS5770ADW.  While doing research my concern was if the connector would fit my oven.  Other Amazon shoppers had the same concern. The connector was a match.  No wire splicing was required.  Overall the photos of the 74007498 I looked at on the internet appeared to look the same as my original igniter.\n\nPART NUMBER\n\nThe Maytag MGS5770ADW owners guide parts list the oven igniter's part number as 7432P075-60.  The same part number is shown in the search results on Maytag's website.  I did a search on several appliance parts websites using my stove model and all resulting in the part number 74007498 being returned from the search.  Sears' parts website has the following blurb for the 74007498 part number:\n\n\"This is a manufacturer substitution. Part may differ in appearance but is a functional equivalent to prior parts including 7432P075-60\".\n\nCONNECTOR\n\nThe original igniter's connector has the following markings:\n\n  7432P106-60\n  MODEL 501A\n  NORTON(r)\n  0030\n\nThe replacement igniter on Amazon (this review) markings is the same as the first two lines, but Norton(r)\" is not stamped on the connector:\n\n  7432P106-60\n  MODEL 501A\n  1342\n\nThe photo of the igniter on Amazon's website was too small to read the markings on the igniter.  I was able to find a photo large enough on the Sears' website to read the markings on the connector they were selling at twice the price:\n\n  7432P106-60\n  Model 501A\n  Norton(r)\n  0110\n\nAnyone know if Norton is the manufacturer of the plug? Igniter? I'm guessing since the \"(r)\" indicates a registered trademark.  The replacement I received did not have Norton stamped on it so is this a knockoff?  In any case my oven now works at the price of 50 percent less than some other sellers.\n\nPACKAGING\n\nThe box has a label with the words \"Whirlpool Corporation Factory Certified parts\" and the part number \"74007498\".  There is no Whirlpool logo on the label or box.  Does this mean the part is not OEM?  Well, my oven now works.  If you are not already aware Whirlpool now owns Maytag along with other appliance brands.\n\nINSTALLATION\n\nThe igniter does not come with screws included.  You will need to reuse the existing screws.\n\nFor my Maytag MGS5770ADW the installation was a breeze.  The connector was accessible from inside of the oven by pulling the wires through.  The connector has two screws.  You will need a 5/16 wrench or socket.  (1) shut off the power at breaker or unplug stove (2) remove the oven racks or other obstacles (3) remove the old igniter (4) screw on the new igniter, attach connector,  reattach any oven parts removed  (5) restore power and turn on oven.\n\nTips:  the oven door (optional, but recommended) , oven bottom, etc is usually simple to remove.  See your stove's owner's guide for details.  No tools were required for my stove to remove the above stuff.  If your bad igniter has been installed for a few years , before removing you may want to put a drop of oil on the screw threads and between screw head/bracket before removing to minimize the chance of damaging the screws.\n\nRATING\n\nI will give this igniter five stars.  It was a perfect fit and good price and the oven now works.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4416, "id": 159748, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 605, "len_tokens": 775, "text": "This spark ignitor was a perfect replacement for the spark ignitor of my whirlpool range/oven (GFG461LVS2).  Replacing the ignitor is a common first step to attempting to fix an ignition problem since the part is fairly easy to replace and relatively inexpensive.\n\nIn my case, however, this replacement didn't solve the problem I was having.  To hep others that might encounter the same symptoms, I'm posting my experience here:\nMy symptoms:\nOven bake operation worked for about 20 minutes or so with proper ignition and flame.  After 20 minutes, the oven bake flame would ignite and then immediately go out.  The oven attempts ignition 3 times with this result (immediatily shutting down the flame automatically), then gives up using the bake flame and locks it off.  The lockout can be reset by pressing the stop button.  No other indication is given on the display when the lockout occurrs, so it looks as if your oven is still operating normally, even though it is slowly cooling down.  You might not notice it until you go to remove the roast/brisket/turkey/etc. from the oven a couple hours later and find that the oven is cold...\n\nAttempted fixes:\nBased on the sound of the oven attempting to bake (3 attempts, with quick shutoff of the gas after each attempt), I thought the ignitor perhaps wasn't igniting the flame properly, so I purchased a new spark ignitor (this product).  This is a reasonable first attempt since ignitors tend to take the brunt of wear in the oven and are cheap and easy to replace.  However, this did not fix the problem or change the symptoms.\n\nIf I had opened the floor of the oven and observed the flame, I would have noticed that the flame was igniting fine (sometimes took 2 attempts, but flame worked).  The problem is that the oven shuts off the gas after the flame starts.  My next guess, based on further research on the internet, was to replace the gas regulator valve (next cheapest part), which I did.  That also did not fix or change the symptoms.\n\nAfter further research and this new evidence, I discovered that the problem must be in the part of the system that detects that there is a flame.  If the oven does not detect a flame, it shuts off the gas valve.  In my range/oven (GFG461LVS2), this flame detection happens through the spark ignitor.  Since I had replaced the ignitor (this product) already, I trusted it was good.  The next possible cause of the problem must be the circuit board that operates the ignitor, which also detects the flame through the ignitor circuit.\n\nI finally replaced the spark ignition module (circuit board) and that solved the problem.  This circuit board can have failures that produce the symptom of failing to detect a flame after the oven warms up (which also warms the circuit board).\n\nIf you are having the symptoms I had (oven works 20-ish minutes, then fails to properly detect the flame, even though flame is ignited properly), then I recommend buying a new ignitor (could be the flame sense thermocouple in the ignitor), then replace the spark control momdule if that doesn't fix it.  Don't waste time/money on the valve for this particular symptom.\n\nAnother note: Even replacing all three parts as I did (ignitor, valve, circuit board) is still cheaper than a new comparable range/oven purchase, so it is economical if you don't mind putting your own time into the replacement.  Also, the parts are not too difficult to replace with medium home-handy-man skills (I'm not a professional repair person) and average tools.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4417, "id": 159873, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 678, "len_tokens": 777, "text": "This is the 2nd Bosch washer I have bought from a local home improvement store. The first one was an entry level back at our old house replacing a noisy cheapo whirlpool in 2006. We bought Bosch because of how quiet they ran. Now in our current home we are replacing another cheapo whirlpool (dead) with another entry level Bosch but the price point is a couple of hundred less than 5 years ago. First, this has a stainless tub with a plastic bottom, whereas the old one was all stainless.\n\nNow we get to how quiet it runs - on my old Bosch you had to put your ear next to the washer to hear it - the new one you don't have to, you can hear it pretty clearly but i would not describe it as loud by any means - you will not have to adjust the volume of a TV set in the kitchen or have to talk over it. I would guess its on par with or a bit better than most dishwashers at this price point. I am guessing Bosch is now using how quiet a washer is to set price points on their washers.\n\nIt cleans very well and dries better than the last one. Let me share what I know about a Bosch washer and how it Dries. You do not have the traditional vent on the countertop for steam to escape it goes through the drain - so you need to use a rinse aid like Jet Dry. The washer will heat the hot water supplied and has a hidden heating element under the Plastic/Poly bottom. It is possible to turn the heating element off - you need to consult the manual to adjust this and or the amount of rinse aid dispensed. With the heating element on, sanitized selected and using a rinse aid - all my dishes are dry in fact it dries better than the old model - the dishes are so hot right after a cycle that they are too hot to handle.\n\nFYI - Many dishwashing detergents have been forced to change their formulas (remove phosphates in the past 12 months) some traditional detergent brands are now terrible to the point where people are buying new dishwashers when they only need different detergents - I have found the best results with Finish tablets.\nThis washer is made in the USA and i do not expect it to last as long as my mother-in-law's still running trouble free 16+ year old German built Bosch. The stainless steel outer door feels a bit flimsy when you wipe it down.\n\nAll in all I think I got a fair product for the money and do not think I would have a better product for the same $ I spent on this. The only thing else I would say is that it does not have a solid food dispenser and if you want near silent operation you and your wallet will need to step up the Bosch line.\n\nPros\nbang 4 buck, made in usa, cheaper $\n\nCons\nmade cheaper\n\nUPDATE 6/27/13 - I am still getting consistent performance out of my dishwasher.  If I had to do it all over again, I would have spent a bit more for a 100% stainless tub as this does not live up to its name in terms of quiet performance.  All in all though I do feel as though I did get a reasonable bang for the buck.  I did have a Bosch front load washing machine that I wound up replacing after 3 years, so Bosch will only get my money for dishwashers, wiper blades & spark plugs from now on.  I have not experienced any rust whatsoever as the other reviewer mentioned.  Recent sellers on amazon of this product seem to be selling this at a premium it doesn't deserve as I got mine at a big box retailer a year and a half ago when it wasn't on sale for quite a bit cheaper.  Check prices thoroughly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4418, "id": 164951, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 604, "len_tokens": 751, "text": "My old floor display LG finally was laid to rest. 5+ service calls and then it started leaking and wouldn't power up. I researched every web-site and every customer review. Bosch doesn't offer an affordable line with a build-in garbage disposal feature, which sounded like something I wanted as an added feature. Never-the-less... It was a holiday week and I needed my dishwasher replaced, and fast. I did my homework using Consumer reports, due to their testing and non-bias reviews. This model rated 81/100, which was the highest rating for dishwashers. I wasn't crazy about the models with hidden controls and I liked the remaining time display. The stainless steel tub is nice (note: the bottom and top aren't stainless steel... rather a greyish plastic, but who cares? The top rack is on a track which I do feel make for longer lasting and easier in and out access. It's not as quiet as my late LG. The sounds of filling and emptying cycles can be heard, however it's not a really big deal for me and it's only a little noticable. I read one review that says the Pot scrubing cycle doesn't get the water hot... WRONG! Opening my door during the cycle gave me a free-steam facial. Not recommended... LOL. So heat is not a problem. Here's what is...\n\nThe loading problems I reviewed were not great, and this is true. The tines are very tight... Bosch is trying way too hard to make dishes fit. If I was only washing plates, this machine would be a dream. Note to Bosch... Most families use a large assortment of dishes, bowls, glasses, pots and pans. Put some space back between those tines! Some are adjustable but most on the bottom rack are fixed. (I have to be creative at times to get the plates and pots to fit at the same time. Deal breaker? Not really... I just want everything clean. And clean is what I'm getting. This unit is a work horse. I've done back to back washings after Thanksgiving. Even put the pots and pans all together for their own cycle, fearing that some food particles might settle on the glass ware, but this wasn't a problem at all. The filter does need to be cleaned once in a while, but I've only done so twice in 2 weeks, and it wasn't that bad at all. Might have even gotten by with just one cleaning.\n\nBosch recommends Finish tablet which is another #1 rating from Consumer reports. One soap tablet per wash. Not bad at all. There are enough settings to make my daily use easy. The quick wash selection is good for a normal breakfast. The sanitize option is great and helps the dishes dry as well. There is no heating unit, so that's a plus/ minus for some, but my LG didn't either so I knew what to expect.\n\nFor the price... This was a Great deal and I'm happy so far. I can take the little minor loading issues over the fact that I've always gotten a clean load when it's finished. Run times are long, 1-2+ hours, but again... nothing new for me. If you want clean and can tolerate a trickling noise between cycles, then look no further. Easy to self install... (took me 30 minutes) Note to Bosch... I like my products boxed... Not shrink wrapped. Just saying...LOL Time will tell how long this one will last, but so far, it's the best I've owed. Oh... Bosch is noted for the least amount of repairs. Good sale point for me. Hope this helped.\n\nMr. CaZ", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4419, "id": 164953, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 599, "len_tokens": 722, "text": "We bought this Bosch Ascenta SHE3AR75UC dishwasher after our old 10 year old Bosch dishwasher started to turn itself off mid-cycle. We have fixed our old Bosch once for the pump (under warranty) and once for the control board (past warranty), but we still liked it enough to get another.\n\nSince we already had the hookups from our old washer, I decided to install the unit myself and I am glad I did. Installation was easy, but a $20 hookup kit is recommended so you have all the brass fittings and hoses necessary to get the job done.\n\nThis Ascenta SHE3AR75UC is a less expensive machine than our last, and it does show in a few areas. The tub in ours is plastic instead of stainless, and the wire of the rack is a thinner gauge. The door works perfectly fine, but has a slightly stiff action when closing. The control panel on the front is clad with plastic, not stainless steel like the picture seems to show.\n\nThis washer is not silent like our last Bosch, but it is still quiet. Noise is the main caveat for not spending $250 on the next model up. Our old washer had a thick plastic casing that encased the lower internals, this one has exposed drain tubes that allow the sound of trickling water to be heard near the front kick panel. The trickling sound can be faintly heard from the next room with the room door open. Not a deal breaker.\n\nBosch decided to re-design its racks since our model, and I am not happy. I like to fit dishes most effectively for fuller loads. Our older Bosch had larger spacing between all the tines in the racks, allowing the rack to be more versatile for the different shapes of bowls and plates. The new rack has much tighter spacing between the tines of most sections, preventing certain dishes (cereal bowls and glasses in particular) to be fit almost anywhere in the lower rack. Our family has at least 4-6 cereal bowls per wash, and I am still trying to figure out where they should go. The Bosch manual should loading examples, none of which have more than two cereal bowls. I would estimate that the lack of versatility of the racks means that we lose up to 10-15% capacity per load over our old Bosch. Some Ascenta models come with a folding silverware rack that allows you to place it in different configurations for more versatility. I wish our model had that. Perhaps I will discover the secret to the new racks, but so far I am stymied. Not quite a deal breaker, but certainly knocks off a solid star (or star and a half) off of an otherwise perfect score.\n\nThe normal cycle takes longer than our old unit.  1:55 instead of 1:25. That one half hour is significant if you have to run two loads during a large dinner party. Otherwise, who cares. Fortunately, the machine offers \"delicate\" and \"express\" modes that take 1:20 and 0:30 minutes respectively - which can serve in a pinch.\n\nThe washer does a fine job of cleaning. No complaints so far.\n\nThe biggest question is: How long will it last? We bought this less expensive model assuming that the control board or pump may eventually go bad (like most appliances we have had), so when we pass the warranty and extended warranty periods, the decision to replace the unit won't be as tragic. Hopefully Bosch has made some improvements since 12 years ago.\n\nI will update this review if anything changes.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4420, "id": 165065, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 669, "len_tokens": 792, "text": "I'm sure the remarkably bad experience I had with my former dishwasher, a Whirlpool Gold GU2800XTV, has a direct bearing on my enthusiasm for this Bosch dishwasher. That Whirlpool dishwasher was without a doubt the most troublesome appliance I have ever owned over a span of 60+ years. Fortunately I purchased the extended warranty but even the Whirlpool warranty company eventually wrote the GU2800XTV off as a lemon.\n\nThis Bosch, on the other hand, has done everything asked of it in a marvelously competent manner. I'll agree that dish placement is different from other dishwashers I've owned and I'm still going through a learning curve but I've managed to successfully load everything to this point with increasing speed as I learn how to organize the dishes we normally use.\n\nPage 7 of the owner's manual offers four different loading patterns for the top rack and four more for the bottom rack. With that many suggested alternatives and a little creativity one should be able to develop one or more loading patterns that will work for your family.\n\nWith my Whirlpool I had a constant problem with wet dishes at the completion of the cycle even when their \"Hi-temp\" wash setting and \"Heated Dry\" were both engaged. In order to test the Bosch I used the \"Auto Wash\" setting but did not engage the \"Sanitize\" option. I have been delighted to discover the dishes, including plastic cups, come out dry and need no additional drying before replacing in the cabinets. We no longer need the dish towel when unloading the dishwasher which was an absolute necessity with the Whirlpool.\n\nAlthough we have no way of objectively measuring it, my wife and I both agree the dishes are coming out with a shiny sparkle they most assuredly did not have with the Whirlpool.\n\nI had the dishwasher installed by a professional and the installation went smoothly and very fast. There have been no problems with the dishwasher and it has consistently done an outstanding job. While it is very quiet, the Whirlpool was, perhaps, a little quieter but that is the only good thing I can say about the Whirlpool; it washed poorly and dried poorly very quietly.\n\nI tried to follow all of the setup instructions that came on the extra sheet \"Getting started with your new dishwasher.\" This is a loose sheet but has some important information on it, be careful it doesn't get thrown away during unpacking.\n\nOn page 9 of the manual it is pointed out the Bosch uses less water than most and therefore needs less detergent. The detergent cup is measured and has lines at 1, 2, or 3 tablespoons. On page 10 we are told that 1 tablespoon will clean most loads and that is what we have done with excellent results.\n\nSince we do not wash our silverware in the dishwasher we have removed the basket. On page 8 of the manual detailed instructions are given on placement otions for the basket and the loading pattern for silverware placement in the basket.\n\nThe top rack is adjustable and can be moved up or down to accommodate larger items in the top or bottom rack. The top rack can also be completely removed. Some of the other Bosch models come with a sprinkler head for washing really tall items. This arrangement permits complete removal of the top rack and the insertion of a plastic sprinkler head that enables the user to wash really tall items that would sit on the bottom rack. The sprinkler head does, however, fit on this machine as well and can be ordered as part number 5600-037-096 (PP-TV20).\n\nAfter three years of failure in trying to get the Whirlpool to do the job it was supposed to do you can imagine my joy in finding a machine that does the job vastly better right out of the box. I recommend this machine highly. For the record, a noted consumer reporting agency also classified this model as a \"Best Buy.\"", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4421, "id": 165066, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 544, "len_tokens": 745, "text": "We didn't buy our Bosch here at Amazon, but have been so grateful for reviews we've used here that we thought we'd pass along what we've experienced with this product.  We did post reviews at other sites, but aren't sure it's okay to post a link here.  But since there's so much more information to share when it comes to these dishwashers, here's a link to one of our posted reviews: (...).lowes.com/pd_353032-39047-SHE3ARF2UC_4294857924__?productId=3384512&Ns=p_product_avg_rating|1 -- 12/11/2012 by BeingHereNow.\n\nDon't know how to react to reviews where the rating is 4 or 5 stars but the content talks about how bad rack and flatware basket design is way less than user friendly.  The content is helpful, but the high rating isn't.\n\nI've posted information at two other sites, but after going back to the store where we bought our Bosch Ascenta Series 24 In dishwasher, model SHE3AR...(F2UC/08), and comparing the rack sizes to other dishwashers, it quickly became obvious that we had missed the obvious:  the Bosch racks are SIGNIFICANTLY smaller than those found in other 24\" dishwashers.  So much so, that we think these dishwashers really should be listed as 'compact' or somewhere between 'compact' and 'full-size'.\n\nNobody seems to be advertising that the racks are 20\" wide, but only 18\" deep.  That's 360 square inches of space per rack.  The racks we measured in machines by other companies were around 20\" to 21\" wide, but several were 21\" deep.  20\" X 21\" racks have 420 square inches of space per rack.  That means there is 120 SQUARE INCHES LESS loading space (60 square inches less per rack) in the Bosch Ascenta Series dishwashers.  We think that's a lot!\n\nKind of explains why the interior design of the racks is so 'unusual'?  I guess they figured that it was important to force the user to load everything together tightly in order to support the place settings capacity claims.  We're also thinking that Bosch uses the place setting capacity claims, along with the \"standard\" rack widths so that buyers don't notice how much space the racks are missing.  I do think there was mention of the racks being \"slightly smaller\" in the Consumer Reports reviews.  But even their testers don't appear to have realized that the size differences really do add up.\n\nYeah, when you're in the store looking at dishwashers, the Bosch is right up there with the others when it comes to place setting capacity and the rack widths look to take up the same space across the opening.  So,  even if you notice that the racks seem to be smaller, how much smaller doesn't really sink in at the time.  There's probably sales literature, and a bag with the manual, etc. in the racks.  And, of course, the sales reps are making sure you notice the filtering system and that the Bosch dishwasher doesn't need an external heating element.  To be fair, we're not sure that most sales reps will ever have had reason to notice the obvious, since the marketing of these machines is so clever that it appears that hardly anyone ever notices realizes that size is a significant factor when it comes to loading issues, not just the configuration of the racks.\n\nHope this is helpful to others.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4422, "id": 166420, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 533, "len_tokens": 714, "text": "I received my TC9102D HV on a Saturday and had my freezer chilling the\nnext morning, ready for my next batch of amber ale.  I just wanted to add\na little to the reviewers' remarks.  First, according to my electrical\nengineer neighbor, the power lead, not the common side, should be switched\n- Always.  All the instructions say is that the relays have no polarity\nand will accept any voltage up through 240v.  While you could switch the\ncommon side, it's a BAD idea.  Several reviewers mentioned they received instructions in Russian?  Mine was in English.  In any event, the manual for the controller is on the manufacture's website at:\n[...]\n\nIf you are unclear on wiring, here's how I did mine.\n\nWiring is a snap.  I got a double metal electrical box, a on/off switch,\nan dual outlet, and a 1/2\" connector to connect the metal box to the\ncontroller.  There are pictures of these things in another reviewer's\nentry.  I pulled a three prong 14 gauge electric cord from my grab bag of\nGoodies from a long dead circular saw.  If you have to buy one, 6' 14 gauge would be fine for up to 15\nAmps.  The round prong is ground, the wide\nblade is common and the narrow blade is power.\n\nSo, my cord comes into the metal box:\n\nCommon (white wire): Run a common lead up to the \"common\" screw of the\ncontroller's \"Power Connection.\"  Run a common lead to the screw on the\nwide blade side of the electrical outlet.\n\nPower:  If you want the whole unit switched, run the power through the\nswitch.  Using the screws on the same side of the switch, run the black\nline from the power cord to one screw.  Then the lead coming off the other\nscrew will be switched \"power\" for the next circuit (may be marked\n\"common\" on the switch itself...ignore that).  Run the now switched power\nlead to the controller.  This lead will make three connections: the 120v\nscrew of the Power Connection, one side of stage one and one side of stage\ntwo.  I just cut little lengths of wire, exposed 1/4', twisted the strands\ntogether and bent into a \"U\" shape.  I used the \"U\"s to jump the power\nfrom one to the next connection.  Each stage should now have an empty screw.  Run leads from each of those screw back down to the electrical box.\n\nThe outlet:  On either side of the outlet, you'll see two screws.  Note a\nmetal tab that bridges the connection of these two screws.  Leave the common\nside alone.  On the narrow blade side of the outlet, break off that tab\nwith a screw driver or needle nose pliers.  Connect the now relayed stage\none line to one screw on the narrow blade side and the relayed stage two\nline to the other narrow blade side screw.  Now you have two independently\ncontrolled outlets.  You could take a sharpie and put a black dot on the stage one outlet and two dots on state two.\n\nGround: connect the ground (green wire from the round prong) to the ground\nscrew (probably stained green) on the outlet.\n\nHope this helps...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4423, "id": 168579, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 600, "len_tokens": 706, "text": "Im giving the parts 5 stars because it cured my Unbalanced problem with the Whirlpool Cabrio washer that I have.\n\nI don't know about the others but it took me about an hour and a half to remove and install the 4 suspension rods  don't kid yourself, this is really a 2 man job but you can manage with a few tools. You will need a long flat head screwdriver (about 12 in length), a vise-grip and a flashlight. In my case, I couldn't get my arms down into the little space and was not able to pull the tub upwards  if you have a stainless steel tub (that is what I had), it will be heavier than a plastic one. If you have a second person, that person can push the tub to the other extreme and / or lift so that the rod hook comes out easier. I didn't have a second person to help so this is what I recommend.\n\nThe easiest rod to lift (if you are facing the washer), is the one on the left back  that has the most space for your arm  so this is the one I changed the first. Keep in mind the first one is the toughest  one, there is a learning curve and two, you do not have any convenient way to pull the rod out (as pointed out by other reviewers, for the second, third and fourth, you can use one of the old rods as a fish hook to pull the new rod through the anchoring hole). This is where the vise-grips come in handy  I used the vise-grip to pull the rod up and with a combination of the screw-driver and vise-grip was able to wrestle the plastic suspension ball away from the first rod hook. My Whirlpool Cabrio washer was the older model that did not have a plastic bushing  instead it had grease that I had to wipe away. Removing the old rod from the bottom busing is also a struggle  this is where the long screw-driver comes in handy  I just pushed at the tabs holding it to the tub with the screw-driver and was able to release the bottom anchor  you may need a flashlight for this to see what you are doing (as I could only insert about half of my forearm into the space between the tub and the metal enclosure  if you have very skinny forearms you might be luckier).\n\nInserting the new bushings were a bit tricky as well  After cleaning out the grease at the top (you may not have it). I inserted the new bushing by pressing in the tabs with the screwdriver while pushing it in from the top. The bottom bushing works easy when you pull up on the rod as it snaps into place. For the second to the fourth rod, I used one of the older rods as a fish hook to pull the older rod out  much better and easier.\n\nAfter I completed the rod on the left back, I went in a counter-clockwise direction  the front left, the front right and last of all the back right. The reason for this is that the back right has an additional hook for the water. I recommend you take a photo of how it looks like before detaching it, so that when you are finished replacing the rod, you can compare it with how it looked before.\n\nFor a how-to video, just google \"whirlpool W10189077 suspension\" and you will find several videos showing you how to replace this part.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4424, "id": 179872, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 583, "len_tokens": 709, "text": "DO NOT SPILL ANY AMOUNT OF LIQUID ON THE STOVE TOP. You will ruin the entire range!!!! We had a spill of 2-3 cups of oil from a frying pan on to the stove top of our Frigidaire Gallery range. We turned off the burners we were using and also the oven. After a couple minutes we started using paper towel to absorb the hot grease. It took less than 10 minutes and all seemed well. We used the burners after cleaning up and even turned the oven back on. We used the oven for 2-3 weeks and then last night while cooking a lasagna for over an hour at 350 we started smelling a really weird \"plastic\" smell. Then smoke started comming from under the stove top and was burning our eyes and throat. We turned off the oven and left the door open. The smoke continued for over an hour even though you could touch the inside of the oven with your bare hand and it wasn't hot. After it cooled we took off the cook top and saw a cantalope sized black charred insulation under the back left burner. No other burners showed any sign of oil. Oil had apparently seeped under the burner when it spilled and soaked the insulation. When the oil spilled it barely made it up to the base of the aluminum burner where it meets the cooktop. The oil was spread evenly across the cook top below the grates yet only one burner leaked the oil. It is obvious they didn't tighten the burner when they assembled the top. If they had then none of the oil would of leaked. We have talked to Frigidaire three times now and they sent out a tech to look at it. The guy said that Frigidaire never covers any oil spill damage. I asked, even if it is because they didn't bother tightening the burners down at the factory, basically he said yup! So we called frigidaire back and they said call another tech in if we didn't think the first one did a fair job. We called two more techs and they both said the same thing, if it has anything to do with oil spilling, they will not cover it. Even though we keep calling frigidaire, they obviously would rather have their factory authorized techs waste their time rather than just saying what the techs keep saying. We don't care if we messed up, we will not take responsibility for a design that destroys the range if you spill a little oil!! The repair will bee $450- $525 to just cut out the charred insulation and replace with a piece. Frigidaire sold a range that wasn't put together properly, they couldn't care less and every one of the repairman said STAY AWAY FROM FRIGIDAIRE or any of the Electrolux brands as they have horrible warranty policies and Frigidaire sees alot of problems throughout their gallery line especially! I made the mistake of buying a Frigidaire Gallery refrigerator, range, microwave for our kitchen remodel. I WILL NEVER DO THAT AGAIN!!! NEVER!!!!!!!!!! Thank God I bought a Whirlpool diswasher after we returned the Gallery before we installed it. One and two star ratings for the dishwasher was to big of a risk! I will Electrolux will NEVER pawn their crap off on me again. I remodel kitchens and bathrooms for a living and I will ALWAYS warn against using such junky appliance made by such a pathetic company!!!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4425, "id": 180321, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 570, "len_tokens": 710, "text": "I purchased the PureWash system in May, 2012 and have purposely waited to write my review.\n\nFirst, this is obviously a company that puts a lot of innovation and attention to detail into the product.  The packaging was outstanding. It includes the unit itself, instructions, a placement guide a small level and a small hammer.  I had also watched a YouTube video on installation (recommended) prior to receiving this so I was ready to go once it arrived.  Installation was simple and straightforward.  I have a standard washer.\n\nDirt and Grass stain test:  For the initial test, I took a white cotton dishtowel and ground in outside dirt and grass (I mean *really* ground this dirt into the cloth).  The intial wash of several minutes removed all of the dirt and made a significant dent in the grass stain.  Next, I used some detergent on the grass stain and tossed it in the washer again.  More stain came out, but not all.  Grass is a tough test. I also ground in more fresh grass and pre-treated it with regular detergent.  This worked better than without detergent.  I do not wash kids' clothes, so I can't speak to those particular challenges or stains, but would like to hear feedback on that if anyone can add a comment.\n\nMy first gas bill came in with a savings of over $30, and continues to save at least that much each month.  Those savings combined with the savings from not buying laundry soap or fabric softener and I this should be paid off in savings within a year or so.  I addded the purchase cost of some natural soap nuts liquid to this estimate.\n\nEverything else:  I loved the results immediately.  It took me some time to break the detergent/fabric softener habit.  I continued to use a small amount of both for a while (until I ran out).  What I discovered was interesting and unexpected.  What I found is that the more I used PureWash on my clothes, the better they came out.  At first, some clothes felt stiff and artificial, so I used fabric softener.  Many loads later the opposite occurs: if I add fabric softener the clothes feel stiff and waxed.  This might be a re-learning process of what \"naked\" laundry feels like, but I think it also is a process of getting residue junk out of the clothes, and that this process takes numerous washings.  It took my towels the longest to start coming out feeling right. Whites are whiter, colors are brighter (no fading).\n\nNote:  I still use \"detergent\" every once in a while - I use a small amount of a soap nuts liquid. Soap nuts are a product that come from trees and have natural saponins.  Also, if it is something like my gym towels that are stale from being in a locker, I add a capful or two of bleach.\n\nThe other thing I do sometimes is just put the cycle on \"pre-wash\" and that's it.  It is like an intense rinse if something needs to sit in the PureWash-treated water.  No more extra rinses, sometimes just a wash if I catch the machine at the right time to bypass the buit-in rinse cycle.\n\nOne of the best parts?  When I gave a friend a hug a few weeks ago she said, \"Wow! What do you wash your clothes with?  They smell great!\"", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4426, "id": 180709, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 589, "len_tokens": 717, "text": "I liked the idea of getting a better seal on my dryer vent, so I decided to try this. I wish I had not.  First, it doesn't come with the vent tube attached like other vents, so you have to go find one (especially if your old one is a bit corroded).  Second, having found one at the hardware store, I inserted it, but it wasn't a very firm fit.  So I pushed it in a bit more firmly, and the elbow split apart at the seam.  Consequently, I then had to get several large matching wire ties to wrap around the elbow tube to make it stay together.  Even then, there were gaps that needed to be caulked.  The vent pipe also needed to be glued in place to stay firmly in the hole\n\nOn top of all that, unlike other vents, because of its size and weight, this unit really won't work well without screwing it to the wall as shown. Two problems with that.  First, they dont' provide the screws, and, even if they did, ordinary screws wouldn't work for stucco.  Second, the manufacturing is sufficiently poor that the mounting base on the bottom piece does not come close to lining up with the mounting base on the top piece.  So the top piece is out about 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the wall, and not screwed on as shown on the picture.  Forcing it to the wall would likely have broken it.\n\nSo, I have now (i) gone to the hardware store to purchase the vent pipe, (ii) gone to the hardware store again to get the giant wire ties to repair it, (iii) gone back again to get the caulk and glue needed to seal the seam and keep the pipe in place, (iv) finally found some screws that will work on stucco and have a whitish color on the heads that will match the vent, (v) put new holes in my stucco wall to mount it, and caulked all around to seal the edge as well as the seam.  And even with all that, it still looks like it's not completely mounted correctly because the top portion just wouldn't line up.\n\nWith all that, does it work better than an ordinary vent?  Yes, I think so.  I like the comfort of having the perfect seal now when the dryer is not blowing, and now that the weather is getting colder, my wife is pretty convinced that the laundry room is not as cold as it was in prior winters.  On the other hand, the lint tends to accumulate all over it, especially on the warmed caulk.  Also, if you're just worried about small animals, there are vents with built in guards on Amazon that would look to be just as effective.  But this vent would certainly do a better job than anything else of keeping bugs out, if you have an issue there.\n\nBut it just wasn't worth all the hassle.  Would it be worth it if they included an attached vent pipe, had better manufacturing quality and included an appropriate assortment of screws and maybe sealants?  Yes, I think so.  And it would have been worth an extra few bucks for the added cost.  If you live in a really cold climate, it might be worth it even with the hassle, although I wonder if much of the improvement might simply be the result of taking the time to caulk the edges for improved seal rather than from the vent itself.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4427, "id": 180773, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 624, "len_tokens": 781, "text": "October 2016. Wanted to give the machine a few months of service before writing this review, of which the theme is in a word, outstanding. What a little pistol this Frigidaire has been thus far! I come from great kitchens and good, expensive, full-size dishwashers; I'm picky and attentive to machinery. I dread buying plastic-based machines made in China. Was not sure what to expect from this \"apartment\" dishwasher. Well guess what, it's great! I'm 3 full months in. I had it professionally installed by a plumber who knew what to do; a good place to start. I run it 3-4x a week, I keep the rinse-aid compartment full and I use a small-to-medium amount of dish washing detergent and use the LIGHT wash feature every time as an energy-saving attempt ~ it has never failed to deliver sparkling dishes, serve-ware and flatware which are done in the middle of the night (another energy-saving attempt) using the 2 or 4--hour delay start feature. If you're noise sensitive, this is a normal-to-quiet machine, but again I had a real pro install it with the incentive to do it well, no half-baked install here... I would bet that some of the complaints here stem from people getting excited about this inexpensive price point, but then throwing a home-brewed install at it. Just an observation. It's great looking, my kitchen looks like a little Paris or New York City kitchen. People notice it! Women, go ooohhh this dishwasher is cute! It has a sparkly stainless interior which perhaps is staying so nice as I keep the rinse-aid compartment full. Ask me any questions here if you want - I'm an appliance snob and I've paid close attention to this little guy so I could make a thoughtful review for all of you, my Amazonian brethren. BTW, the delivery was good, I opened it with the plumber present a couple days before install as I had read the reviews in which some arrived damaged and I didn't want my install appointment day botched by opening a botched machine. He and I determined it was all systems go and he returned a couple days later for a 3-hour install which included a little under-sink re-routing of a pipe to make room for it. I paid him $600 and was glad for it. How exciting to have this cute dishwasher to my rescue, and honestly it works like a trooper. Super happy about it!\n\nPS - we all use dishwashers differently, and if you believe commercials and marketing that make it look like dishwashers can clean an un-rinsed lasagna platter, we'll you're just inexperienced. I don't put anything EGGY or CHEESY or heavily FATTED into my machine without 80% rinsing it with warm water first. I don't want stink or fat rinsing into my new DW pipes so I manage that over the trash can or down a warm sudsy kitchen sink first. While we're on the subject of care & performance, I also run my garbage disposal with hot water and a little dish soap before I hit my start button (in most cases, your garbage disposal shares an exit pipe with your DW, so you should just know that whatever unfinished business you have in your garbage disposal drain will present itself as odors or problems over in your machine. Love this little dynamo 18\" machine!\n\nFebruary 2018 - still great! Sparkling dishes and a super clean machine interior. Every now and then I take a cotton ball with some alcohol on it and run it around the edges and seams of the interior compartments just because I like it clean & shiny and this lifts the lime deposits. One of the best appliance purchases I've ever made.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4428, "id": 180919, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 618, "len_tokens": 745, "text": "The dual fuel decision was fairly obvious for us. We were coming out of an electric slide-in so were already wired for 240V and going straight gas would mean not only having to install the gas line but also add a 120V line. FYI .... although we could have had a contractor install the gas line the price for having the gas company do it for us was right in line with everyone else.  Total install cost with parts was about $200 and they just put it on my gas bill.\n\nWe've had the stove for about 3 months now.  In no particular order here are some observations:\n\n Pros:\n1. Wife and I both love cooking with gas.  Just for giggles I did an electric vs. gas timed test for bringing water to a boil. The gas was NO faster than electric, however, the temperature control with gas is much better. Except for camping we are both new to gas and love it.\n\n2. The stove comes with both a grate and a griddle for the center section. We only use the griddle and let me tell you, Dad (that's me) is now making better pancakes than ever. Zero stick, REALLY even heat, and fairly easy cleanup (After the griddle cools just rinse it in the sink)\n\n3. My difficulty when deciding between this unit or the GE Profile was the location of the gas knobs. This was the right choice. I worried that having them on the front (Cafe) rather than on top (Profile) would make it easier to bump into a knob and break one. Not only are they well guarded by the oven handle, the flat section above the knobs (where the knobs are on the profile) is much easier to clean.\n\n4. Two lights in the oven.  Nice.\n\n5. Biggest Pro ..... my wife loves it. Any guys reading this know how wonderful that is. ;)\n\nCons:\n\n1. I suppose we got spoiled with our old smooth top when it came to cleaning. Some soap, a cleaning pad, and it was done.  Naturally the burners and all the contours make this cleanup more labor intensive. I'm really okay with it (My honey does the cooking, I do the cleaning) but it's good to know what you're getting into.\n\n2. The inside oven glass is a true pain to clean. The baking soda paste method works the best but it takes both time and energy.\n\n3. Perhaps silly but here is my biggest gripe (Are you listening GE?).  The front control pad is intuitive and easy to use but the buttons have no backlighting. In a fully lit kitchen all is fine but if the lights are down just a little you can't see them (Grey buttons on black background).\n\n4. In the picture you may notice the vents on the back of the unit. Really hot air comes out of these vents. The only part I don't like is there are also vents on the back side (facing the tile backsplash) and it gets the backsplash (for me) uncomfortably hot. Perhaps I have an unfounded concern but I don't want all the heating and cooling cycles to crack the tile.  No damage yet.\n\nAdditional observations (Not really pro or con, it just is):\n\n1. On convection the oven is a little slower to heat up, but I didn't consider it a con since I'm guessing all convection ovens are likely like that.\n\n2. The fan noise has been regularly mentioned ..... yes you will know the fan is on, however, the noise for this unit is right in line (or quieter) than most other convections I have heard. No complaints here.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4429, "id": 180940, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 625, "len_tokens": 757, "text": "First off, I have to preface this by saying I have purchased the Wonder Washer and was greatly disappointed.  This thing is a 100x better than the Wonder Washer.  I own both and could not believe I wasted my money on the other washer.  My needs were simple - a small washer that could wash normal items like jeans, sheets, pillow cases, bath towels... you name it.  This is the washer that can do it.  If you are living in a small apartment or are on a budget and are tired of schlepping clothes to the laundry every week or the endless hunt for quarters - this is for you.\n\nThe washer is the perfect size to sit on a counter top.  I put mine on my kitchen counter next to the sink when I need to do the laundry.  The washer is actually fairly lightweight and comes with an easy carry handle, so moving it is not difficult.  It also has a top fill hole with a hose.  I strongly recommend swapping the hose it comes with with a REAL hose.  Go to your local aquarium supply or hardware store and purchase one.  I think it takes a standard 1/2\" hose.  Any high quality flexible rubber hose or PVC hose should do.  You will also want a faucet adapter or something to fit snug into your faucet.  For me, the aquarium hose I had worked perfect and was able to wedge into my faucet spigot tight enough to allow easy filling.  The drain works fine.  You can see it hanging on the right of the stock photo of the unit.  I didn't even realize the unit had a fill hose and drain until it arrived.  I guess I missed it in the description, but it works great.\n\nThe washer itself is just the right size.  The motor is amazingly strong.  You can easily throw a beach towel or something like a queen size duvet sheet in there and wash it.  It pulls through like a champ.  Jeans work great too.  To give you an idea, the 5.5lb capacity is about a regular men's pair of jeans or a single queen size duvet sheet or about two queen size flat sheets or two regular bath towels.  It is more about wet water weight than anything.  So if it absorbs a lot of water and gets heavy quickly, it may slow down some.  A large sheet can be done, but you will need to fill the tank to 3/4 capacity with water before you add the sheet.  Then push it under water so that it is covered.  The key on larger items is to make sure there is enough water so that it always spins freely.  So keep that in mind.  Anything smaller like shirts, khakis or anything else will be a breeze.\n\nYou will have to do multiple loads or get used to doing loads daily.  But the convenience to me is worth it.  My apartment was smaller and did not come with any hookups.  The nearest laundry is about 3 miles away and closed early.  I was always needing rolls of quarters and the local store was out or didn't have enough to spare.  So things just never seemed to work out right for anything laundry related being convenient.  This was the perfect solution.\n\nAlso do yourself a favor and purchase the matching spin dryer.  It is totally worth it.  If you have to choose one, buy the dryer first.  The dryer will not get your clothes 100% dry, but it eliminates a good 80-90% of the water to the point things are slightly damp.  So a quick 10 minute air dry can usually dry your clothes after that (besides jeans that is).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4430, "id": 181241, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 530, "len_tokens": 769, "text": "This machine works excellently well. Excellently! It's quick and quiet, and does a very good job of getting clothes very clean. It's not quite as hands-off as a full-sized washing machine, but that's a small price to pay.\n\nThe owner's manual was extremely minimal to start with, and got translated from the Chinese by someone whose English was not up to the task. Here is what you need to know:\n\nTo fill it, you MUST hook the drain hose up as shown in the image. If you leave it down, the water flows out through it.\n\nIt's not wise to fill it as full as possible of either laundry or water. If you fill it too full of water, it will splash some out of the screw-holes joining the top to the body of the washer. This water then runs down and could conceivably enter the motor cabinet. I have found that adding water only as far as the end of the corrugations on the hooked-up drain hose largely prevents this.\n\nIf you overfill it with laundry, the clothes may not get very clean, and you may burn out the motor.\n\nThe Owner's Manual, translated from the Chinese by someone who hadn't quite got the hang of English yet, tells you to add 1\" of water, put in the detergent, and agitate for 1 minute before adding clothes. I've found it more sensible to add about 4\" of water, the detergent, and the clothes, then complete the filling: but I use liquid detergent. Powdered soap may well require that extra step.\n\nIn the beginning, this will allow you to estimate the size of load the Panda can effectively accommodate. The OM says not more than 5 lbs., about 2.25 kg, but I've found a 2-2.5 lb,/1kg load to be most effective. (Fits nicely into a 5-quart/liter bucket.)\n\nYou will need roughly 1/8 the amount of detergent you do with a standard washing machine.\n\nThe infill hose presented a bit of a problem for my situation; it was difficult to keep it from kinking. Eventually, I used a couple of bread-tie twists to craft a hook it hangs from when in use.\n\nYou will want to place the Panda so that the drain hose, when hooked, is over a sink. During agitation, it often spews small amounts of water. It's also wise to expect it to need mopping up after; it will condense water on its blue shell if nothing else.\n\nAnd that's it! These are small accommodations to be (almost: sheets and towels) free of the laundromat!\n\nI've used it for two months now, and at this point, I have it figured out well enough to hook it up and walk away.\n\nI use the Panda with&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Nina-Soft-Spin-Dryer/dp/B00CDWTQKI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Nina Soft Spin Dryer</a>&nbsp;and the&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Easy-Dry-Portable-Clothes-Dryer/dp/B001DKJXK4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Easy Dry- Portable Clothes Dryer</a>. The Nina is very fast and quiet, and extremely effective. The Easy Dry is ... not noisy, but imagine an oversized hair dryer. It also pumps out a fair amount of heat. Nice in winter, not so much in summer.\n\nThe three of them together will earn back their cost for me in about 6 months.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4431, "id": 181358, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 613, "len_tokens": 734, "text": "I'd first like to thank all the generous reviewers who provided helpful, descriptive reviews and/or videos. I wouldn't have purchased this little washer without being able to consult those reviews and instructional videos. As mentioned by others, be aware that the vigorous washing action can make a copious amount of suds out of very little detergent, so until you've had more experience with the Panda, start off using even less soap than the small amount recommended -- you can always add more if needed. Also, the machine agitates briefly in one direction, then pauses and agitates in the opposite direction, which results in more vibration than if it agitated continuously and smoothly throughout the cycle. I mention this because apartment dwellers might want to be aware that the vibration caused by the start-stop agitation can be disruptive to neighbors. I just make sure I use it during daytime hours only, and all is well. I love that I can use the Panda to soak some items for an effective period of time before starting the wash cycle. With its surprisingly strong agitation, the Panda actually gets clothes much cleaner than using our building's commercial washers.\n\nThe only downside to this machine is rinsing and wringing out your cleaned clothing, but I've now managed a workable routine. When using the machine, I place it on a small, sturdy square plastic bench next to the bathtub at tub-edge height, and let it do its work there. Then, after unhooking the hose and letting it down to drain into the bathtub, I use my Showerpik shower head to run clean water into the machine while it's still draining. Once the draining water is fairly clear of suds, I fill the machine once more with clean water and a bit of white vinegar and let it agitate briefly to rinse thoroughly. After draining a final time, I let the clothes sit in the machine for a bit while the drain tube is still down in the bath. About half an hour later, there's not even a trickle coming from the hose, and I find that my clothes have surprisingly little water left to wring out manually. One handy hint: Using about a quarter of a cup of white vinegar in the rinse water helps remove soap residue from clothes, and vinegar's anti-bacterial/anti-fungal properties means that your clothes won't get funky and mildewed if you forget and leave them in the machine for a few hours. Vinegar is also a natural fabric softener, and rinses out thoroughly, so your clothes are soap-free and softer, all without any residual vinegar smell. It also keeps your machine and its tubes soap-residue free, and again, its anti-fungal properties keep the machine smelling clean.\n\nThanks again, fellow reviewers, for all the helpful info that allowed me to make the decision to invest in this amazingly effective little washer.\n\nP.S. Delivery was prompt, and all parts were packed well and in working order. However, I couldn't use the washer immediately because the chemical smell from the plastic was so overwhelming and toxic-smelling that I had to put it out on my deck to air for a few days before bringing it back inside. Even so, the smell was still unpleasantly overwhelming for months. Makes me concerned about the health of the employees who work in the plants where these machines are manufactured...\n\n5/16/13 Update: The instructions that come with the Panda mention unscrewing the agitator plate at the inside bottom of the washer from time to time, to remove any lint/strings that might slow down agitation. I can get the screw out, but the plate won't come off, so I can't clean it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4432, "id": 181371, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 556, "len_tokens": 712, "text": "I will start off by saying I bought this machine to wash my work shirts, which I have to wear every day to work, and which have to be clean every day. I don't have my own washing machine, and didn't want to have to pay a dollar every time I have to wash 4 shirts. I had been hand washing them, and this proved to be a fine solution, though I still had various problems with this method. I shall list these methods here and we shall see if the Panda (aptly named for its portly body and its definite possibility of extinction) adequately addresses any of my problems that I had with hand washing these shirts, or even improves these problems\n\nPROBLEM 1: TIME\nhand washing: it took me about 4-5 minutes to clean each shirt\npanda:: now it takes 10 minutes to fill, 10 minutes to wash, 5 minutes to dump, 10 more minutes to fill, 10 more to rise, and 5 more to dump. For those of you who can't do math: THAT'S 50 MINUTES.\n\nPROBLEM 2: DRYING\nhand washing: you had to wring this all out and then lay it outside to dry, which was a nuisance\npanda:you had to do everything done with hand washing for these to dry, ALONG WITH THE 50 MIN WASHING TIME.\n\nPROBLEM 3: CONFUSION\nhand washing: nonexistent: put clothes in sink, wash clothes, rinse clothes, dry clothes. I can wrap my tiny brain around that\nPanda: WHAT THE WHAT?! you want me to put water through this tube that sometimes ends up all over the floor, and don't mention that the only thing holding the \"out\" water hose (if you will) is a dinky little plastic clip. So yeah, this hose obviously fell off and there was soapy bleachy water everywhere. Something that rarely happens with hand washing (unless I'm very very drunk).\n\nPROBLEM 4: CAT\nhand washing: no problems, my cat watches pleasantly while I wash my shirts in the sink in under 10 minutes maybe pausing to pet her or giggle with her\nPanda. ALL HE** BREAKS LOOSE! since this is a fairly large machine that makes noises, she was very interested in this machine, and therefore in nothing else. So, as it was doing its own (arduous and lengthy) thing, and my cat was watching, I decided to walk past her, accidentally brushing against her. At that moment, she hissed, jumped up, clamped onto my legs, and when i tried to get her off with my hand, she bit me.\n\nSo, as we can see. I will NEVER use this machine again. I won't return it because I can't even begin to imagine how hard that would likely be. But either way, Good God people, just buy a real washing machine, or stick to the sink. Maybe if you have egregious amounts of time, hate using your sink to wash clothes, or, I don't know, have some kind of allergy to soap on hands, you should get this machine, but even then don't expect to keep your soap free hands that way the whole time, they're bound to get dirty (with soap). Also, maybe if you're someone who enjoys making the mundane task of doing laundry egregiously more demanding and difficult, then this is your machine.\n\nIt is cute though.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4433, "id": 181384, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 679, "len_tokens": 796, "text": "Wow...\n\nThe Panda washer I received does not agitate at all. I followed all the instructions. The agitator does not move at the bottom at all. When turned on, the machine just makes the timer/clicking noise, but the agitator does not move at all and therefore the machine I have is useless.\n\nThis is an extreme inconvenience to me at the moment as I had the product delivered to my previous address and didn't even unpack it. I just moved and had been assuming the Panda would work properly here at my new apartment once setup, apparently I assumed wrong and you cannot even trust the best Amazon reviews, as I am reading this problem is not exactly isolated?\n\nI am hoping to get things resolved quickly by receiving a new WORKING unit at my new address as soon as possible. Unbelievable...I'm wondering If I should even be asking them for another one if there are a lot of defective Panda washing machines out there. What is going on Sonya Inc?\n\n- Jim\n\nUpdate 6/13: Well, you guys really are not paying attention the e-mail conversations we have been having, yet you keep stressing that you want me to remove this negative review. That seems to be the only thing you guys are concerned with in terms of customer service. The package was picked up here at MY NEW location (as I stressed tons of times in the \"customer service\" conversations that I have moved and gave you all the information), and you verified the new address information as the defective unit was picked up here! So you guys know I live here, but I just recieved an e-mail AGAIN asking me to remove this negative review and you provided a fedex shipping number.\n\nWhat do you know, I tracked the new package with the supposedly working Panda washing machine, and OF COURSE it is going to my OLD address. Unbelievable. The shipment just started shipping today, Weds, after the DEFECTIVE ITEM was picked up on Friday. I was told the working machine would go out ASAP, but I was OK with waiting a few days just to ensure that they delivered the package out here to my new address.\n\nMy patience is running thin with this company, as I clearly will not be receiving a working unit in a satisfactory timeframe. What is going on with your company that after all those e-mails and conversations you still ship to the wrong address? You just care about me removing this review, but I still don't have a working Panda washing machine. Interesting how this is all unfolding.\n\nSeriously though, where is my working Panda washer and why is it supposedly being shipped to the wrong address?\n\nUPDATE 6/19: What do you know, the Panda washer package arrived at THE WRONG ADDRESS. I don't know how many conversations I have had with this company the past 2 weeks, they picked up the defective unit at the correct address, but shipped the supposedly working unit to the wrong address. I have never been more unsatisfied with an online purchase, and I buy a lot of things online. It has everything to do with forcing me to take time out of my day to repeatedly verify information with this company, only to STILL have them not follow through on their end (I just had a bad feeling as you could probably tell based on my feedback here, you know when you just don't \"trust\" a company to follow through and get that uneasy feeling after speaking with multiple people?). It is clear to me it is a popular product and they ship enough of these things that the \"good\" reviews will always outweigh the bad, especially here at Amazon...but judging by their service and the \"unclear\" communication I would not be surprised to see some changes in this product's popularity over the coming year, they need to look out for their customer's needs AND NOT JUST REASSURE THEM WITHOUT ACTUALLY DOING ANYTHING.\n\nSO I STILL DON'T HAVE A PANDA WASHING MACHINE", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4434, "id": 181386, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 621, "len_tokens": 777, "text": "UPDATED AS OF 06/22/2013\n\nBelow the line of asterisks is the original text of my review.\n\nWell, I *loved* this thing.  It got used once every couple weeks and sometimes not in the space of a month.  It stopped agitating about 3 months ago.  It's not quite a year since I wrote the original review.  So that means it lasted about 9 months.  Warranty is 6 months.\n\nI know I originally said if it lasted 1 day past it's warranty it was good, and it lasted 3 months past that.  I expected to use it a lot more than I did for rags and stuff, though.  Ultimately those ended up with towels in a regular coin op.  So considering how rarely it got used, it probably would have failed much sooner had I used it as expected.\n\nI will not purchase this product again and dropped my rating from 5 to 2 stars.\n\nBelow is the original review I wrote on 06/05/2012.\n\n*************************\n\nI've only had it for a short period time.  I'll return to update this review after I've decided it's lasted long enough to keep the 5 stars it totally deserves as long as it lasts more than 1 day longer than it's warranty! :)\n\nIt's small and efficient.  It's JUST a washer.  This means it doesn't RINSE the soap out, or SPIN out excess moisture.  I knew that before I bought it.  So that's not a complaint from me, just a note for potential buyers.  I chose this over others that said they did those things due to those others also had lots of random complaints about wrong parts, overfill sensors, not working, yadda yadda yadda.\n\nSo if I'm not going to reuse the water in it, I'll drain it and refill it with cold water and make my OWN rinse cycle.  If I'm going to reuse the water in it I just rinse the clothes in the sink.  It's small loads so it doesn't feel overwhelming to rinse a few things out by hand.  Wringing the clothes out is probably the worst part.  I'll be buying the spinning machine that the primary video review of this suggests, because it will be perfect.\n\nThe line drying of things like towels is a slow process and they dry hard.  I think this will be resolved with the spinner because things will dry much much faster.  Line drying of thin items like shirts is fabulous even with hand wrung drying before hanging.  I can't wait for the spinner.  I suspect my life will be perfect.\n\nWhen I say small loads I mean I can wash all my camisoles in one load.  But only one towel with a couple socks.  I have huge towels though, not your standard tiny ones.  I think mine are called like bath sheets?  I've never grown up and I like a towel to cover me head to toe like it did when I was 8! lol  I can wash one heavy sweater with a few socks too.\n\nThe ONLY thing I think they should improve is the tube that is supposed to go over your spout should come with an adapter, so I'm using buckets cause it's too small for my sink.  And I personally feel like a cap on the end of the tube that drains the water to prevent accidental spillage from the spinning causing the water level to jump from the disturbance would be brilliant (I'll improvise that on my own, but it would be nice to have it included).\n\nThis thing is PERFECT for a single person, or a low laundry output home.  Moms with a few kids would probably prefer to steer towards something that can wash more at once.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4435, "id": 182449, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 612, "len_tokens": 713, "text": "I got this range a few weeks ago. So far I love it. I made \"Thanksgiving\" dinner on it last week. Yes I know it's September but what better way then to get all of it going at once. My kitchen is rather open so I don't notice any additional kitchen overheating and I can see why people complain about the convection fan. I found its louder when you convection roast and even then it's really no louder than the convection fan I had in an electric range. It sounds about like the vent hood is on. No big deal at all.\n\nAlso, I love love love the griddle. I can now cook long food (ie the fish filet I made tonight) without having to cut it or stuff it in the pan at an odd angle.\n\nI went from a glass flat top electric to this beast. I will have to say that I find myself cooking everything on LOW. My electric didn't output the kind of heat this thing does. I had to get used to cooking on the left because the power burner is sooo hot I don't know how to use it yet.  The gas cooking is soo much different. I also have natural gas which gives me full BTUs. And oh boy getting that set up was a headache all in itself. We had to get the electric switched from 220 to 110 and a gas line ran. Wow buddy that was expensive and a mess. There is NO room in the back of the range for this stuff. The electrical outlet is actually in the basement on the ceiling now. The cord feeds through a hole. The gas valve is as close to the wall as they could get it without it being IN the wall. All in all - we have about 1/2 inch gap in the back where the stove bits the valve but I can't see it at all. My parter is really tall and claims he can see it but he sees a lot that us short people don't. It looks great. Note that the specs say 2 inches. I think they lie. There is maybe an inch definitely not 2. So if you already have a gas line you might want to check the specs on the stove to see if yours are in a place that will work.\n\nNo cleaning issues either. I too clean after each use. The stainless steel is very soft be very careful with the grates. It's going to get scratched. It happens. As long as you aren't pitching them around any scratches should be under the grates where you can't see them anyway.\n\nAll in all - I love this stove. It's amazing. It heats great. I have not had issues with uneven cooking or hot spots. It sits flush with the counter and looks great. We were a bit worried for a minute that it wouldn't fit, it did. Barely.\n\nI am excited every time I go to cook something. I am already giving my poor man a heart attack planning my new pots and pans and picking out my new fancy range hood.\n\n*******UPDATE***********\nI found a con!  The controls to the oven are on the front.  It turns out I tend to get stuff all over my hands and touch the pad for the timer or oven controls.  My big goofy Shepard mix has caught the scent of goodies and goes sniffin around and turns things on and off with his nose!  Gonna have to start locking the keypad or be more careful where I put my dirty hands!  Silly dog! :)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4436, "id": 182463, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 601, "len_tokens": 721, "text": "We've had this range for over 6 months now and absolutely love it.  It replaced a 10 year old Thermador dual fuel convection range that was always somewhat of a disappointment.  In contrast, this range has so far met our every expectation.\n\nThe Power Boil / Simmer burners are great.  We really appreciate the high BTUs as we have a lot of large cast iron pans.  It boils water as fast as our electric tea kettle.  The tri-ring burner provides a wide range of precise temperature control down to a very low simmer.  Our only issue has been that it's so low we sometimes forget to turn it off.\n\nThe convection oven is great and we've found the probe to be more useful that we expected.  The oven pre-heats very fast.  Turkey comes out perfectly done and moist.  Chicken, Lamb and Pork roasts have been perfect as well.  It's been just as good for baking providing a very even heat.\n\nThe second oven is also great.  Besides the advantage of being able to cook at two different temperatures, it a good size for baking large pizzas.  It's tall enough for an angel food cake.\n\nThe grill for the center burner has been a pleasant surprise.  We thought it might be too small to be practical but it's proven surprisingly useful for grilled cheese, frying a couple of eggs, etc.\n\nWe've found the stainless steel top easy to clean and have not had any heat discoloration.  It can be easily scratched, however, and we got a few marks on it moving the grates.  These scratches can accumulate over time if you aren't careful.\n\nWe have not found the fan to be too loud as some of the other reviews have complained. While the noise isn't a problem, I will say that it heats up the back of the stove so you need to be careful what you leave there when you are baking.\n\nWe do have a few quibbles that we would like for GE to improve.  The timer function is very primitive for a digital timer.  You have to key in the time in hrs:min.  If you key in 90 minutes it gives an error message.  My microwave knows how to handle that.  It only shows the seconds during the last minute.  I like that it beeps one minute before the timer is done. For a stove with two ovens, it would be nice if there was a dual timer function.\n\nThe other addition I would like to see GE to make is to put an indicator light by each burner for when it is on.  They have one for the top oven, which is necessary to tell when it is preheated.  It would be nice if that feature was on every burner. Of course, you should be able to tell by the position of the knob and the flame but there are times when the flame is so low it is easily overlooked and the burner under the griddle isn't visible.  We've caught ourselves leaving burners on accidentally.\n\nThe knobs can get very hot if you are doing a lot of baking, almost too hot to touch. This is usually not a problem and only occurs with continuous use.\n\nThe self cleaning function works well in both ovens.  We were concerned that a gas self cleaning would not be as effective as all electric but that has not been the case.\n\nThese are really minor nits and really nothing when compared to all the plusses of this range.  We are definitely very pleased and would encourage anyone to buy it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4437, "id": 182471, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 618, "len_tokens": 765, "text": "Did you see the other USB fridge clones that Amazon has listed? I can't remember why I chose this one, but since I did, I will tell you what I think about it. This review may or may not apply to the others. But for this version, it should be accurate.\n\nFirst, like it has been said, it's not exactly a fridge. It's a hot plate with a bonus cooling fan that you can set a can-sized container on, with the surrounding box keeping some of the warmth/cool inside. I say some because the box is only about a 3/32-inch thick in most places, with no insulation of any kind. Containers with flat bottoms are recommended to reach and keep a desirable temperature. There is a magnetic seal on the door, but a latch would've been better. It does not support the weight of a unopened can, much less one that would be half full, so be careful of any unwanted drink port-a-potty tipping.\n\nYes, it actually warms up things, too. This listing is like the versions without the rocker switch on the cord. Dig a little and you will find this exact model design listed as a cooler/warmer. This was likely a slip-up, but I wish to imagine it as a designer's revenge for the last minute inclusion of an executive's need for it to \"reverse cool, or make it so cold that it's hot, like frostbite\" and the exclusion of a proper latch.\n\nHere's the rocker switch layout (unexplained in the instructions):\n| = Hot = red LED inside - It might not be broken. It might just be flipped to the wrong side.\nO = Off = off LED inside\n|| = Cool = green LED inside - This is likely the side of the switch that you want.\n\nAbout the design: it's simple. Supposedly fragile (don't wish to stress test), but has some limited feel of integrity to it. Fan and plate rests in the bottom of the unit, inside the door, measuring just under 2 inches. Makes a slight whirring noise when cooling, but nothing while heating. The rest of the unit is roughly 5 and a half inches of soda space. Outside, there's some dated fridge design, complete with spite latch. Be careful: it might make your other devices, and even your choice of soda, seem needlessly extravagant.\n\nWeight: small amount of heft at the bottom when empty. With a can inside, it feels like it has a can inside. Hey, who put this can inside my USB fridge?\n\nSystem specs needed: A PC/Mac + 100 megabytes of storage space + 32 megabytes of RAM for this plug and play device... but all you really need is a USB port that utilizes some power source. For the sake of fun, I hooked it up for a solar-powered battery backup meant for charging portable devices, and it still worked.\n\n---\n\nIf you have the extra money to spend on USB fridges, you could get this if you want one. Contrary to the negative portions of the above block of text I made, it's actually a decent device. I wanted something to cool down a drink, out of sheer impulsiveness. And I feel satisfied. You would be, too.\n\n---\n\nA silly thought: Honestly, I thought they couldn't afford to put a latch in. I was amazed when I found out that it had a magnet. This might sound dumb, but it's like they outdid themselves. It's somehow an awesome feature. I was expecting no seal whatsoever, and then magically, it's sealing. How? A magnet. WOW. Are you still taking me seriously after this? Gosh, I hope so. I don't know if I can.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4438, "id": 182770, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 616, "len_tokens": 732, "text": "If you are looking for electric range, this is a great option to consider.\n\nIn this review, I will emphasize on installation more then the design and functionality..\n\nDESIGN:\n-It looks gorgeous.\n-Control panel is perfectly laid out in from of you with easy to understand touch controls, no need to read the manual.\n-It does have a locking function which you have to press for 3 second in order to deactivate the touch functionality.'It slides in perfectly, leaving no space in the rear, unlike what I was told by some sales persons.\n-Small oven area has a easy to slide in-out drawer type of tray to place dishes easily.\n\n-If you normally use the oven section to store your pans and trays, this range will help you to keep them in place..If you are not baking large items, you will probably be end up using the top small oven, You can keep the trays in the bottom large portion until you need to use it.\n\nFUNCTIONALITY:\n-Cook-top has 5 cooking areas, the 5th one in the middle is to keep the food warm.\n-In each cooking areas' heat can be adjusted in 2 different modes; you can increase the heat level for each, and also, you can choose to use center part or the entire area of each sections.-\n-The front display shows you the temperature of the ovens as they heat up, counting up. My old range did not, so it is a plus for me..\n\nINSTALLATION/PLACEMENT of SLIDE-IN GE RANGE:\n\n-This is perhaps a concern to some of you as it was for me..\n\n-Unlike what SEARS sales person indicated, you do not need a special installation for this range..and the range slides all the way back the wall (minus 1 inch to accommodate the electrical outlet in the back).\n\n-Tips: However, you must be careful to adjust the height on 4 legs to ensure that the galls top does not lay on the kitchen counter..The glass-top of this range over floats in bot sides about half an inch. It is great to cover openings on the side, making it look part of the counter..However, in most kitchens, the floor is not leveled well, and one side of the counter opening is in different height than the other 3 sides. So, it is very difficult to place the galls top close to the surface of the counter..Like me, you may have to opt to have overflows staying quarter inch above the counter. This does not effect functionality, but prevents it to look as good as it should. If you are getting this range for a kitchen renovation, communicate with your contractor, and have him install it along with the counter, which then should look awesome. If you like to be sure if this fits flawlessly to your kitchen before you order it. Pull out the current range and measure the four corners of the counter opening to see if they exactly match. Important thing is that back 2 corners on both sides are equal to opposite ones (back left and right) and in equal or higher height to from 2 sides. if the back is lower then front, it will be impossible to adjust the legs and slide it in without cracking the top..\nI know I emphasized on installation a lot, but it was a big unknown for me, and I hope my experience will help you..\n\nI have had this for a month now, with no issues. i will update the review if there are any issues, if not that means that I am happy with the range and it works well. Thanks for reading my review.\n\nVerdict: BUY IT !", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4439, "id": 187880, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 646, "len_tokens": 741, "text": "(Just an FYI: Almost 2 years later and it is still working fine.)\nOur fridge stopped cooling on the top portion of the freezer side and the fridge side stopped completely.  The bottom of the freezer side was still cold though.  I did a little research on our fridge model and, given the symptoms and the models history, I was pretty sure that the evaporator motor was the problem.  I ordered it while at work without taking the old fan out of fridge (a little risky if I was wrong.)\n\nThe new fan motor arrived \"next day\" which was excellent.  For the past couple days we were keeping our refrigerated items in a cooler which is a pain.  When you pull the milk out and everything collapses into its spot you spend several minutes just trying to put the milk back in so we did NOT want to wait to get the fridge fixed.\n\nI had to remove about 16 screws out of the sides and back of the freezer (including removing the ice-maker which only had two screws holding it on.)  That revealed the fan which was indeed not working.  Here is where I had the most difficulty.  There are three wires on the unit.  One was the ground wire which was easy to pull off, but the disconnects for the other two wires were encased in a U shaped plastic piece.  Pulling the plastic piece ended up ripping the disconnects off the old fan motor leaving them still stuck in the plastic U.\n\nIt took me several minutes to get the old parts out.  I had to push the wires through the plastic U so the connectors were completely exposed, then discovered I had to use something with a sharp point and press through a tiny hole in the middle of the connector while pulling them apart before they would release.  That little hole actually locks the pieces together with a little flap of metal. They should have put holes in the plastic U to make the job MUCH easier and to prevent damage to the motor connectors.\n\nThe new motor came with new male ends and some heat shrink tubing but I did not need either.  The old connectors were still good.  I had to pull the wires back into the plastic U and reconnect them.  One caution, I had to bend the little locking flap back in on one connector before it would lock onto the new fan.  Do yourself a favor and get it locked on BEFORE pulling the wires back into the U (assuming your fridge is the same as my Frigidaire).  If you don't do that, you risk having a loose wire that may arc and go bad or you may be pulling the connector back off (like me) to fix the little flap, risking damage to your new motor.\n\nThe final problem I had was that there was a lot of \"snow\" on the top of the coils.  I used a heat gun to melt the stuff from the top but I could not see the bottom of the coils because I saw no need to take that extra panel off.  Big mistake.  All it did was cause the snow to melt from the top, run down a ways and form a BLOCK of ICE further down.  I started the freezer up without checking and the next day I was removing that \"extra panel\" because no air could get through the ice.  It took me a few hours to melt all the ice off this time plus an extra day having to use the cooler.\n\nHappily it is now running great!  I hope this helps someone else do the job better/easier.  It is an easy job to do if you watch for those pitfalls and it will save you a ton of money over paying a professional.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4440, "id": 188664, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 577, "len_tokens": 703, "text": "Overall this fridge looks great and has performed well (I've had it about a month).  I do have some complaints though.  If you are constrained to 30 inches, I think it's a great contender, but if not, look for something else.\n\nOn the plus side, you get benefits of a French Door fridge in a 30 inch space, including\n- eye-level refrigerator compartment\n- better energy efficiency due to the door configuration\n- through the door water dispenser\n- more attractive styling (in my opinion)\n\nIn addition, it has good, modern fridge features like LED lighting, a shelf with a sliding part that can be moved away to accommodate taller items from the shelf below, an air filter that controls odors (no more baking soda!), moisture control (basically a heater which evaporates condensation on the door seal), humidity-controlled drawers, and some other things.  Nothing unique or outstanding, but I'm glad it has them.\n\nHowever, there are a number of things I'm not thrilled about:\n- Fridge space. I still can't get as much stuff in this unit as in my old top-freezer model, despite that they are both approximately the same advertised cubic feet.  I'm sure this is partially because I have not yet figured out the optimal way to utilize the space, but there is also a significant gap between the front of the main shelves, and the door compartments (when closed).  In my opinion, the shelves should be an inch or two longer so you could this space.\n-  Freezer space.  Same deal here - there is nearly a 4 inch gap between the top of the sliding upper freezer shelf, and the the top of the freezer, creating a full cubic foot of difficult-to-use space.  If you have a single tall item, you can put it there, but you can't pile multiple things all the way up, because the shelf's back does not come up that high so things will fall off, requiring you to squat down and retrieve them before you can close the freezer.  Also, the ice-maker bucket is stupidly large given the size of this fridge.  It's literally twice as big as it needs to be - about 20% of the total freezer space.  I'd much prefer to have half as much ice and 10% more space for food.\n- Water temperature.  The water tubing that leads from the cool water in the reservoir to the dispenser is outside the fridge on the back, So the water in the tubing warms up to room temp as it sits there.  Thus the first cup of water is warm to cool-ish depending on the size of your cup, and then the second cup is then colder.  Whirlpool suggests discarding the first cup of water.  Not only is this very wasteful, but it also take a long time since water already comes out relatively slowly from fridge dispensers (due to the 1/4\" piping).  Better to use some of that excessive ice in the freezer to cool down the first cup!\n- no butter compartment\n- the lighting strip has a bulge in the front, which blocks access to stuff in the center of the top shelf, making them hard to reach.\n\nThat said, these faults are all things I can live with and I do not regret the purchase.  More than anything I wish I had more than 30 inches of width in my kitchen so I had more fridge choices!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4441, "id": 189284, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 418, "len_tokens": 708, "text": "I was replacing an element from a hot plate -- saving $5 by ordering the part and not a new hot plate.\nI'd seen this listed as the \"universal\" element -- which this seller didn't, and good for him/her, because it's not QUITE universal.\n\nIt heats just fine. The problem was the bending of the leads, which the images on this product do not show. They are all from the top, straight down, so you can see the coils. But when you look at it from the side, you can see that it has dimension -- the coils that form the cooking surface are about an inch above the leads.\n\nSo far, no problem. But in my original, both leads bent upward at the same place, next to each other, and on this one, they don't.  As shown in the image supplied, the left element goes forward and inch or two, bends 90 degrees, goes straight up another 1\" (invisible in the picture, 'cause it's coming right at you) then bends 90 degrees to the left and begins the clockwise coil.\n\nWith THIS element, unlike my original, the right lead goes about 3\" before it has the 90-degree bends. This means that the two leads bend down from the surface level about 2\" apart. This would be fine except that my drip pan's holes for the leads did not accommodate that bend.  At all. And the material is pretty well unbendable (a good thing, probably), so you can't bend IT to fit.\n\nSo I bought a pair of tinsnips and cut my drip pan and made it fit. It's a bit ugly, but it works now. $21 later... oh well.\n\nHere are some images of other elements so you can (sort of) see the geometry:<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-Stove-8-inch-Surface-Burner-Element-9761345-8053268/dp/B002ZNNE12/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool Stove 8-inch Surface Burner Element 9761345 / 8053268</a>&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Range-Stove-Top-Surface-8-Burner-Element-316442300/dp/B001K5M1UQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Range Stove Top Surface 8\" Burner Element 316442300</a>\n&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/None-Ers30m1-Ge-r-Range-Surface-Elements-6/dp/B004JNU22A/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">None Ers30m1 Ge (r) Range Surface Elements (6\")</a>\n\nJudging from the other replacement range elements available, my old one is the weird version, not this one, so I still rate it high. But I do advise purchasers to check all three dimensions before selecting their item. And I remove 1 star because the little metal piece holding the two leads together is not adjustable, whereas it was held together by a screw on my old one, and I like that better for getting it in and out of the drip pan hole (was holes).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4442, "id": 190611, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 558, "len_tokens": 712, "text": "About a week ago I noticed that when my furnace was off...my Aprilaire humidifier just kept running. Well, to be more specific, the water flow into the Aprilaire was remaining on.  At first I feared the control system in the furnace was failing to send the \"close valve\" signal. But a bit of investigation uncovered the culprit:  the solenoid valve was \"leaking\"!  When the furnace was running, it dutifully sent an \"open valve\" signal, and the solenoid fired as usual, sending water to the Aprilaire. But when the furnace shut off (and/or the humidity set point had been reached), the signal to \"close valve\" was properly sent, but the solenoid did not fully close.  The water supply decreased, but there was significant leakage passed the seat of the valve, causing the water to run down the drain 24x7.\n\nOption 1 was to call my furnace company and have them come replace it.  My guestimate was $100-150 to make that happen.  While they are normally worth every penny, in this case I struggled to justify spending that much for so simple a fix.  So I started snooping on the web and found this replacement part here on Amazon.\n\nI could not be HAPPIER! It took me all of about 10 minutes (and I am NOT a skilled plumber!) to swap out my old solenoid for this one, wire it up, and give it a try.  It works PERFECTLY!  Now, to be clear, you will need some tools.  An adjustable wrench and screw driver are musts obviously, but what some people may overlook is you may need a copper tubing cutter.  When I removed the old one, the old copper fitting would not fit properly in the new solenoid, so I had to cut it off and installed the new fitting that came with this valve.  Other than that, installation was a breeze!\n\nLet me clarify a few items that I saw mentioned in other reviews:\nFirst, this solenoid DOES ALREADY have a strainer on the inlet!  Do not waste your money buying a new one, as recommended in other reviews and as shown in the \"bundle\" in the ordering area on Amazon.  The filter is built in, and in fact if you bought another, you would be unable to make it fit.\n\nSecond, this solenoid DID FIT in the exact mounting holes that the old one used.  Maybe I was just lucky, but I saw others say theirs did not fit.  Admittedly the tubing routing had to be shifted a bit (this solenoid is not the exact same size as the old one), but the mounting holes lined up perfectly.\n\nFinally, YES you must use a yellow orifice (or whatever color is right for your Aprilaire) to restrict flow on the outlet... BUT before you buy one, take out your old solenoid and see if you ALREADY have one that is in good shape!  I wasted a few bucks on a new yellow orifice when in fact the old one was perfectly fine and went right back into service with the new solenoid.\n\nIt remains to be seen how long this solenoid will last, but I am VERY happy with this one so far.  With about 10 minutes of work I saved myself probably $100 in repair fees and now my water is not running down the drain 24x7!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4443, "id": 190882, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 678, "len_tokens": 785, "text": "Drying clothes is something we take for granted and we expect our clothes dryer to get our clothing dry the first time, without the need for running another drying cycle. We expect clothing to emerge from the dryer in the same condition it went in and if our dryer can keep wrinkling to a minimum, then we have an added bonus and a dryer that is certainly worth keeping. This is exactly what you get with this Amana Electric Dryer, my newest home appliance.\n\nMy dryer installation took a little longer than expected because I could not figure out exactly which local carrier was going to deliver the dryer, due to a missed phone call and phone number problem. A call to the helpful personnel at JB Hunt was all it took to locate the whereabouts of the dryer and schedule a delivery day. The delivery people arrived as promised, installed the new dryer in a flash, and hauled the old one away. I was now ready to test my new dryer and I wasted no time loading up the washer in preparation.\n\nLooking at this Amana dryer for the first time, my initial impression was that it didn't have many features.  As you can see from the image on this product page, there are only two knobs: One on the left for the drying cycles and one on the right to start the operation. With only two knobs, the dryer has a very basic appearance, but once you check further, you realize that the single knob on the left includes a total of eleven different drying cycles, including auto dry cycles, wrinkle control, and a timed option. There is no end of cycle signal option and it lacks some of the other more sophisticated features found on the more expensive dryers, but it still has what you need to get the laundry dry.\n\nTesting a few loads, I found that the Amana Electric Dryer Model NED4600YQ excels at drying! It dries things very quickly and I was surprised when I went back to check a load of laundry that had been set for 50 minutes, only to find the clothing already dry in just 30 minutes. I realize that my previous dryer was approaching five years of age, but this still surprised me that a large load would be dry and ready to go so quickly. Subsequent tests produced the same results- loads of laundry, regardless of the type of items, dried very fast.\n\nAnother issue I have wih dryers is with shirts. I have to remember to remove them from the dryer quickly to avoid wrinkling and since almost every short I own is cotton, this is a major problem. Thankfully, this dryer has a wrinkle control setting that tumbles the clothing without heat, helping to prevent wrinkles. It doesn't work perfectly, but it works well enough that I don't need to race to the dryer at the end of a cyle to remove clothing and I don't have to reach for an iron.\n\nThis Amana dryer has a side- swinging door that opens from the left and swings to the right, so it won't work for certain confined spaces. I know that some people prefer the dryer doors that open from the middle and pull down, but the sideways option is fine with me. I just place a basket underneath and scoop out all of the clothing at once. Wrinkles are not much of a concern thanks to the wrinkle control and clothing is dry and ready to wear in a very short time.\n\nDryers are something most of us take for granted, but some are better than others and the Amana Electric Dryer model NED4600YQ is one of the better models of dryer for getting clothing dry in reasonable time. The auto dry function doesn't always work perfectly and the wrinkle control function won't stop every wrinkle, but this is still a very good appliance even if it does lack some of the bells and whistles common with the more high- end clothes dryers.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4444, "id": 193205, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 495, "len_tokens": 716, "text": "Bought this in January of 2014.  about 6 months into owning it the auto sensor got clogged with grease and the unit ceased to function...  the lights came on the fan was on its lowest setting and none of the buttons on the control panel worked.\n\nI removed the sensor as indicated by customer support AND online sources, which was very difficult while installed. once i removed the connections and the sensor, the hood functioned as it should.\n\nabout a week ago (November 1 2015)as i headed into the kitchen, I noticed that the fan was on its lowest setting, the lights were on and the buttons again were unresponsive. I tried the remote, to see if that would work, but it did not.  I have unplugged this device to keep it from being on all the time and am going to contact the manufacturer..  this is dissapointing, because the unit is handsome, and had a fairly high CFM rating.\n\nConsidering all the negative responses by purchasers, you would think that amazon would contact the seller and open a can of whoop ass on them.  Unfortunately, to date , this is not the case... Ill update this review with any news from Golden Vantage... I also may try the Voltage Regulator fix as suggested by Ychin San in this review (http://www.amazon.com/review/R1GM668ESBR1K/ref=cm_cr_rev_detmd_pl?ie=UTF8&asin=B008UEJS7Y&cdForum=Fx6BPE32LAQMZ1&cdMsgID=Mx6KFP4AC5T1O0&cdMsgNo=5&cdPage=1&cdSort=oldest&cdThread=Tx3025MY3QOL513&store=appliances#Mx6KFP4AC5T1O0)\n\nSo i reached out to GV and they replied back asked me a few qustions and then sent me an entire electrical system for the hood.  Control panel, circuit board, wiring harness.  however, what they didn't send was any kind of instructions...  crap i had forgotten how much of a pain in the ass this thing is.  some takeaways are as follows.\n\n=>>  the build quality on this product doesnt extend beyond the fans and the stainless body.  the electronics are quite flawed.\n\n=>> there are 4 different length screws holding the light panel on.  why they couldn't standardize this and come up with another method of securing the panel, and the controls with the longer screws is beyond me.\n\n=>>  unless you want to take the entire unit off the wall and disassemble the fans, you won't get the light panel \"out\" just able to move it around.\n\n=>> the new control panel came without the gas monitoring control which is fine, i disabled the sensor, but the controls are wierdly segmented..  you can turn the light and the timer on any time you want, but to turn on the fans, you have to actually use a power button and then turn on the fans.  strange.\n\nIts really too bad.. the CFM of this unit if awesome and it looks good.  unfortunately it just doesnt seem to be able to overcome some design flaws.  I would like to suggest to others to buy this item, but i just cant.  If i had to do it over, i would buy one of the more expensive ones that I overlooked to buy this one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4445, "id": 195801, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 672, "len_tokens": 794, "text": "I received this compact clothes dryer yesterday & am hoping the 5-star review is not premature. It arrived well-packaged & undamaged (no dents, the belts are working & the dryer heats properly). It was easy to unpackage & set up. I have placed it temporarily in my back bedroom to test it out (on a hardwood floor), and plan to move it to a well-ventilated utility room & either wall-mount the unit, or place it on a shelf. There are 2 controls on the front panel - a dial to select dryer time, and a push button with 2 settings - depress the button 1/2 way for a cooler temp, and fully in for the warmest setting. The push button confused me for my first test - it took me a few minutes to realize that the button had to be fully depressed to really warm up the dryer. Closing the door starts the dryer. I have dried about 8 loads of clothes since yesterday - the maximum number of pieces I dried is 20 (2 jeans, jean shorts, 3 hand towels, socks & a variety of t-shirts). I decided to check the lint filter about every 30 minutes & clean it out, to maximize efficiency. To check the filter, open the dryer & gently but firmly pull out the plastic filter basket (it's a disc that separates into 3 parts). I can see it is important to be very gentle when doing this to avoid damaging the filter, so just be careful when you snap it apart. The Panda runs reasonably quiet, dries gently & doesn't seem to overcook the clothes (like some commercial driers). I will work on improving the ventilation to the outside, as i have it venting just below a window that I opened about 4 inches, but the room feels a bit humid. I know a ventilation kit will help this. The only unknown at this point is the electrical bill. I will have to look at that next month & will post if the bill skyrockets. Of course, I can always save the drying for the nighttime hours. I am very happy that I no longer have to lug wet cloths from my upstairs Danby washer downstairs to the communal dryer outback! Overall, this seems to be a win for city dwellers!\n4/6/2018 Heres an update from me about a year or so after I purchase this Panda Dryer. I still absolutely love this dryer. I use the dryer approximately 10 to 15 times per week. (We are a family of 6) That is to say, this dryer has been used A LOT by me. I have learned a few tricks, such as adding a small dry clean towel to the loads to quicken the drying process for the wet clothes, and occasionally I will line dry heavy items like towels or jeans for a couple of hours before tossing them into the drye to finish the drying. But other than that, I am using this dryer as it is intended, with a very heavy use. And it has never failed me! It will turn itself off temporarily  when it begins to get too hot. I believe this is a built-in safety feature. If I am home when this happens, I will open the dryer door, and let the clothes cool down for about 10 to 15 minutes. This releases the humidity in the dryer, too. Then Ill close the dryer door & starts right back up and continues to dry the clothes. I have vented this to a window with a simple dryer kit. Very easy to do. I also purchased a small wire stand to place the dryer on. Again, I want to state that I feel as though this was an excellent investment, and the day this dryer dies, I will immediately buy another one, because it has given me such great value. I highly highly recommend this for apartment dwellers, and anyone who wants a space saving appliance.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4446, "id": 195976, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 498, "len_tokens": 755, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R29W12C4IFOHEU\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/B1w4ZISE3qS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81qkFViNdmS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;We ended up getting this unit solely because of the cutout size of the existing cabinetry and this was the best(and most expensive) option we seemed to have.  We had a Whirlpool prior to this and the microwave failed years ago, while the oven was still functioning--never get a combination unit for that reason.  Installed on 12/27/2012 and ever since then, there are three types of malfunctions in the microwave:\n1.  There is still :01 secs in the timer left when the microwave reads \"Cooking Complete\" and beeps.  This seems to be the most innocuous, as otherwise the food gets hot.  May be a rounding error in the software, but happens very frequently.  I will upload a video.\n2.  In this one, the microwave is on, turntable rotates, counter counts down, but the sound is a low hum of the turntable rotating, but the fan is not on.  This is with the regular microwave function, not the convection part.  So far, this has happened about 6-7 times.  We haven't tested the food, whether it gets hot during those times.  I haven't been able to replicate it, as when the technician came, but fortunately, I had videotaped it as it happened again the day before he came.  It happens at random times and random settings.\n3.  This third type has happened about thrice so far, where when time is entered for a full power cook function and upon pressing start, nothing happens.  No sound, no countdown, no turntable rotating, but the microwave displays \"Cooking...\" as when it does when everything works correctly.  So far no luck with customer service.  Will report if anything changes.\n\nUpdated on 3/5/2013.  I have uploaded videos of the above malfunctions at: [...]\n\nUpdated on 07/25/2013.  I notice that there are more people having issues with this unit.  Please post your complaint on: [...].  That was the only way I got a prompt response and they eventually replaced the unit, as I had meticulously kept a video log of every event of malfunction.  That didn't solve the problems, but they happen less frequently in the new unit.  Best advice for people considering this unit is to stay away!\n\nUpdated on 11/14/13.  Our saga continues even with the replacement unit.  I wanted to wait and see, even ignoring the timer not counting down to zero before displaying \"Cooking Complete\" and the fan not turning on or off as it does sometimes.  On 11/11, when the microwave did not even turn on, even when the display said \"Cooking\", it was the last straw.  I have complained on their facebook page and will wait to see what action they are going to take.  If replacing the unit did not solve the problem, I don't know what will.  Obviously, there is a problem with this model.  Please stay away.  Do not buy this product.  If there was a zero star rating, I would give it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4447, "id": 196309, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 596, "len_tokens": 720, "text": "As I post this review this item had only 3 stars out of 5.  I'm writing this review to tell you that this really is a good product but there are a few concerns you need to be aware of.\n\nFirst, the functionality of this product is superb.  You download the app for your iPhone or Android device, connect the \"gateway\" to an available Ethernet port on your router, add the \"sensor\" from your device and in no time you've got wireless monitoring of temperatures.\n\nFor my application on more than one occasion someone in the family has left the freezer or refrigerator door open only to come home to warm milk or melted ice cream.  This product solves these problems by sending me a text message (and email) when my preset highpoint temperature is set.\n\nNow the bad news.  Out of the box you get only 3 months of free \"enhanced\" monitoring capabilities, namely the SMS and email notifications.  Afterward it's $12 per sensor per year.  This may detract you from purchasing this product, for me it's a small amount of money for peace of mind (and lack of food spoilage).\n\nThere are a few concerns:\n\n1) Buyer beware when purchasing a \"new\" model from eBay.  I did this thinking I was saving a few dollars but what I ended up with was a gateway that was already registered to another person and a sensor that had already started its 3-month free service.  La Crosse was able to help me re-register the gateway but they would not restart the sensor free period.  For the extra few dollars I'd recommend just buying one from here so you get the full manufacture's warrantee and the full 3-month complimentary period.\n\n2) The distance from the sensors to the gateway is limited to 200 feet.  When on the phone with tech support about the gateway, the support person informed me the 200' distance was \"open air\" and suggested the range decreased rapidly with anything between the sensors and the gateway.  I put my first sensor in the basement fridge which provided many obstacles but I'm happy to report that the gateway still saw my sensor with a very high link percentage (94%).  So this is just a gentle warning that you should be aware of the distance issue.  For me, it's a non-issue and for most typical homes this won't be a problem for you either but you should be aware.\n\n3) Finally, just keep in mind, after the 3-month complimentary period, if you still want SMS and/or email alerts from your sensor(s) it will cost you $12/yr billed annually per sensor.  That's only $1 per month and to me that's reasonable, you may feel differently.\n\nTo wrap up, this is a REALLY GOOD product.  There are a few sensors options available, some of which include 2 temperature monitors (the device itself and a remote wired dry (or wet) sensor).  They also offer a leak detector which presumably detects water in your basement or other location.  I really didn't go too far into the app functionality but in a glance you can see the status of each sensor along with very nice graphs of both daily or weekly temperatures.\n\nA few other reviewers suggested technical issues with the network.  I'm a technology person so these things come easy to me.  In the unlikely event that you have a network connectivity issue, you may be a bit challenged but I would bet the La Crosse tech support could solve most issues.\n\nI'd highly recommend this product.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4448, "id": 196364, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 599, "len_tokens": 741, "text": "Received the unit, performed normal setup, and everything worked great initially. The web interface is pleasing, and you can set thresholds for temperature and humidity when it sends alarms. You also get alarms when the base unit cannot communicate with the remote sensor. But here are the problems:\n\n1) I am using this for a place where there are power failures (think mid Michigan around Christmas), and expecting (and/or read in some reviews, I don't recall) that when communication between their web service and your base unit is lost, it sends alert emails. But not so! This function, which is really easy to implement on their end in the software, is missing! I purposely tried it a few days ago - nothing! I can see on the site directly when last communication occurred, but you'd really want email alert for that, just like for their other functions.\n\n2) When I \"restored the power failure\" after perhaps 12 hours, it had lost the ability to synch to its probe. Now, several hours after the power restoration, the web site still shows \"no communication\". Of course you could now re-synch the probe and the base unit - but this is a major annoyance, because it takes time, but also because it never lets you know that power is indeed back! Not even on their web interface, considering the alarm doesn't work. And, more importantly: every home will likely go through a few power failures a year - do they seriously expect customers to re-do configuration of the unit after each one?\n\n3) The \"text\" notification to the phone just did not work. The problem appears to be that they are not using a \"true\" text message, which may cost them money, but rather you select your provider and they apparently use the free \"email to sms\" service that most major provider offers. Well, I am one of the growing number of people who use cheap no-contract per minute plans (in my case PTel, 5c/min, and 10c/megabyte, on T-mobile network, works great and very cheap! Get it!) And these services offer regular sms, but no \"email to sms\" So out of luck there.\n\n4) Considering their \"power out\" notification doesn't work, I hoped that at least I could put it on power backup using passive power over ethernet (PoE). In that way I could \"see\" an actual suspected power outage on their web site in the form of unusual temperature ranges, or get temperature alert emails when the then dead HVAC can't keep the place in range anymore. I have a centralized, high-power 12V backup system, including step-down to 9V / 5V, and with that you can power most \"normal\" internet things (routers, wifi, switches, internet cameras, etc). But - they use the oddest power transformer, it uses 20V (unnecessarily high for such a simple device requiring basically no power), and to top it all, it is AC (which for sure no common battery backup system provides). So they make it basically impossible to put their system on power backup, unless you plug it into a battery-powered 120V system - but these usually run only a few hours at most.\n\nWhat is very annoying is that all these issues could have been solved/avoided for no extra cost (except perhaps the sms, which I even would be happy to pay on a per-case basis) if their design engineers had just thought things through a little longer. I surely hope they will get fixed in future upgrades. As it is right now, the unit is severely limited in its actual useability.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4449, "id": 196514, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 597, "len_tokens": 733, "text": "Purchased from Amazon, the QML30SS was delivered by Fedx from Houston TX in a plain brown box which was poorly taped.  Fortunately, there was another box inside that one and it was the factory Broan box which was sealed and new.  I was a little surprised that even inside the Broan box there was very little styrofoam around the hood.  Anyway, no dents, dings or dimples so all was good.\n\nThe unit was very light weight considering its appearance.  The metal is thin and I dare say flimsy until it is installed where then the mounting to the underside of a cabinet give it rigidity.  I should add that because of the bottom of the hood being closed as opposed to many other hoods on the market, that closed bottom gives the hood additional rigidity and strength.\n\nInstallation was a project for sure.  I had to replace the shims under the cabinet to accept the hood mounting screws.  Making new shims added at least a hour to my installation.  I use the hood in the non-ducted mode so I didn't have to route duct work or cut holes.  When installing, I found it easier to hold the hood up to where I want to mount it and mark the holes for the mounting screws rather than to do all the measuring necessary to find their location.  By doing this, I had a very perfect fit (requires someone to hold it while another marks the screw holes).\n\nI purchased a Broan carbon filter (required for non-ducted installation) and two Broan light bulbs.  The light bulb sockets are attached to the underside of the hood so that when you unscrew the hood bottom, you can lay that bottom on a table and install the lights using the adjustable brackets so that the bulbs are perfectly flush with the bottom of the hood before you reattach it.  Knowing now that the light sockets are adjustable, I wish I had purchased the cheaper, non-Broan, light bulbs at half the price.  Not all bulbs are the same length so I took no chances and bought the over priced Broan bulbs, regretfully.\n\nThe hood is 29 7/8\" by 17 1/2\".  The fan is plastic and the fan motor isn't too loud as others have said.  The fan isn't anything more or less than I expected for a hood of this caliber.  The low speed might be adequate to take care of a simmering smoke and the fast speed would be adequate to handle larger plumes.  If you are looking for a hood that will suck the pancakes off your griddle, then move on, this hood isn't for you.  But, this was perfect for me in that it was styled very much like the expensive Bosh models, does the job of any hood in its class and I absolutely love the fact that you can wipe clean the underside so no grease ever builds up.  The lights are placed very well on the hood and illuminates the stove top evenly.  The light \"high\" setting is bright white (daylight color) and the \"low\" light level is more of a antique white or yellow light in contrast.  It is a great night light in the kitchen that doesn't blind you and adds a bit of warmth to the room.\n\nI didn't want to invest in something that was more expensive than my stove and I didn't want to stuff a $40 dollar hood into my kitchen either.  This was the best compromise.  Expensive looks and does the job at half the price.  Can't beat that.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4450, "id": 211122, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 600, "len_tokens": 778, "text": "I have a studio apartment with a subpar laundry room on-property. As snooty as it sounds, public laundromats have come to really ick me out over the years. Plus, the hot water of the washers here trickled out like molasses so adding bleach was not an option. I did a LOT of research for this machine (I mean a lot) and my only regret is honestly not buying it sooner!!! As of writing, this review is after having it for 6 months, so I know what I'm talking about. This is most perfect thing I could ever want in my cute little apartment. I also really love how you can wring out (spin) in one basin and use the agitation cycle (wash) in the other. Simultaneously.\n\nGREAT FOR:\nSingle person/student/studio apartment\nIf you don't produce a ton of laundry every week\nIf you have a work uniform that needs to cycle out/be washed frequently\nIf you go to the gym a lot and need to wash your workout clothes frequently\nIf (you rent) and your utilities are paid (WOW!)\nIf your bed is queen or smaller (CAN indeed fit king size fitted or loose sheets, but not blankets)\nSomeone with infants/elderly (you want to wash those pesky 2-3 items daily so the baby food/soiling doesn't crust while it sits in the hamper until the next laundry day)\nIf you're not significantly tall: If you're above 6'0\", doing several loads on laundry in one day might make your back ache a tiny bit. This is a somewhat low-to-the-floor product.\n\nMy tips:\n- DON'T OVERLOAD it. It can handle it, I guess (I haven't smelled any burning odors?) but why put your little machine through that? You want the laundry to swish around pretty freely for best results.\n- The \"spin\" (wringing) cycle doesn't need that much time. That is to say, it wrings it out in a matter of moments.\n- If, during spin cycle, the machine bangs around, it's merely uneven. Open in, ensure heaviest articles are at the bottom, flatten out the top disk, and try again.\n- A Japanese user guide on YouTube suggest wringing (spinning) all the clothes after the wash (soapy) cycle. This is a must if you're heavy-handed with the detergent. Otherwise maybe wringing just half of the items is enough to get soapy water out (other than the draining function the machine has). Then continue to fill with water and resume to rinse cycle.\n- Use HE laundry detergent.\n- Fill the wash basin with your laundry detergent (and a good splash of bleach for whites) while it fills up with water (and the \"wash\" function is spinning it around). Then, when it's about half full, add your clothes, making sure to add one at a time to ensure it's still swishing around freely. If you add one item too many, just pull that one out and let it sit in the sink until you refill the machine with the next load.\n\nI also feel I'm more frugal with laundry soap now! I used to pour a bit haphazardly haha... Having such a compact basin really makes you consider how much you pour in, so I'm very grateful for that.\n\nLast but not least: THE CUSTOMER SERVICE IS PHENOMENAL. I've genuinely never had such a kind, FAST-RESPONDING customer service team, I'm not even exaggerating. I hope to have this little machine for several years to come. As I said, it's 6 months since I bought it and it's just as powerful as the day I got it. I'll update if anything happens.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4451, "id": 211160, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 601, "len_tokens": 725, "text": "Ordered the weekend of 1-30-16, received on 2-2-16, first use on 2-3-2016..... AND ....I AM IN LOVE WITH THIS UNIT!!  I have named it my little beast!  It's lightweight, but is A VERY POWERFUL little machine, from the washer to the Spin dryer, it doesn't disappoint!  Sure it requires a little more effort. But when the trade off is lugging laundry down to a laundry room with not enough washers for the number of units in the building that usually has broken units and the manager never cleans the room and there's spiders hanging out in the corners of the room! In addition, I have had clothing stolen out of my loads.... I don't mind the little effort using this requires! This SIZE is PERFECT because before I'd have to save up enough laundry to do in the big machines downstairs, which would take a week and a half and I'd have fewer options for what to wear and a mountain of laundry to do when it came time. The Water inlet hose fit both the kitchen and bathroom faucets no problem. I had leaking when using the unit, but found it to be user error. Don't over stuff and don't fill water above 3/4 of the height of the lint trap. Use the laundry mesh bags as everyone suggests. I say it's a must! Even with those they get tangled up from the power of the agitation this unit provides. That spin dryer is da bomb! Items come out barely damp and while it is true you will need to split the load washed into two to spin. It only takes it 3 mins or less depending on the item thickness. That time just flies right by! **note there is a metal clamp in a Baggie that comes with the unit but it's not listed in the instructions it's the water inlet hose clamp for the faucet....also there is another water inlet on the right side of the unit...apparently that feeds water to the spinner but I dint find this necessary ....that also isn't mentioned in the instructions**. For detergent this doesn't need much, and I'm not kidding! I use liquid detergent and found that 1.5 soup spoonfuls was just enough, using 2 spoonfuls for dirtiest loads and if I added Oxyclean powder to the load, I decreased the detergent used. It will be overly sudsy if you don't and will require and extra rinse cycle. My only regret is not jumping off the fence to make this purchase sooner. I'd been stalking this and the larger unit for over 3 months. I am VERY HAPPY with my purchase and very glad I bought the smaller unit. It fits perfectly in the kitchen is lightweight and really easy to carry around if needed and I think in the long run this unit is more likely to fit into future homes I may move to. I will be using other suggestions made in other peoples reviews for extending the water inlet hose so I won't have to move this around.  This came in a shipping box that had the top part slip over the bottom foam part. I am keeping that with plans to cover it in a wipe-able plastic shelf liner in the same off white color as the kitchen cabinets so that I can use it as a cover to keep it from view should the manager of building need to enter. ;-)  I learned my lesson, I won't be fence squatting to purchase the dryer too! That's in my very near future.....Great product that works like a champ!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4452, "id": 211523, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 497, "len_tokens": 708, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R3TECEC2Z187HM\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/E1RZOoRh8QS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71ACdi1wgmS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;After several instructional videos and reviews, I decided for $219 (S&H included) I was going to get this beauty. I used it for the first time and let me say.. its great!! The washer side is bigger then expected so i was pleased.  The spin side was what expected, small but not TINY! and it really wrings the clothes so it cuts down on drying. The unit itself is easy to use despite the \"instruction manual\". Not much info there, doesn't explain what the right hole is used for but I learned how to put it to use!! Also, it comes with a round metal ring... what it's for..I DON'T KNOW!! lol... if someone does...please tell me!\n\nNow, when you look at the Panda, you will see a hole located on the left and right top corner of the machine. The left corner is to fill the washer with water when you connect it to the kitchen faucet. Simple enough. But what is the RIGHT HOLE for??? Well, after many videos no one has explained this, so hypothetically speaking... Lets say your washing clothes and wanted to continue using the same water for the leftovers that couldn't fit. So know your unable to do a rinse cycle....THINK AGAIN! After you put some clothes in the spin dryer as instructed, attach the hose to the RIGHT HOLE... yes, we are going to use this mystery hole if its the last thing we do!! and turn on the water..add a bit of fabric softener (optional) and close it.  Keep the water running... that's right.. running for a couple of minutes.. this will get out all the extra soap. Now , shut the water off and let the spin cycle continue, adding extra time if needed. When you set the unit to drain, water in both basins will drain out. Now if anyone else uses the right hole differently, please let me know how.\n\nPROS:\n\n- Compact size for apartments or RV's\n- Affordable\n- Has a lot of power and it washes well... clothes smell DELICIOUSLY CLEAN\n- You can sleep in for a change instead of going to the laundromat\n\nCONS:\n\n- I had to put a towel underneath cause i noticed it leaked a bit... I know washers can do that, let me know if anyone has\n  experienced this.\n- The mystery ring that comes enclosed with the manual...its perplexing!\n\nTIPS:\n\n- Buy an extended warranty that covers your product the day you brought it just in case.\n- When your finished, place a basin on the floor and put the drain hose in it to get all the final drops out of the machine.\n  If you got the strength put the Panda on top of counter so it can drain better.\n- Also rinse out, dry and leave the door open for a bit to air out so musky odors don't occur.\n\nHAPPY WASHING!!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4453, "id": 217274, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 547, "len_tokens": 716, "text": "Love this concept of freezing \"whatever\" (i.e. beverages, olive/coconut oils & herbs, etc.) and getting amazing results of 2 inch cubes. I like to cook naturally and cook with coconut oil the majority of time. Well, coconut oil can go from liquid to hardened state depending on the temperature in your pantry. Why not freeze it, keep the cubes in a plastic freezer bag, and voila, you've got a convenient way of storing pre-made flavored herb cubes. I also like to bake, so, I can always use the coconut oil in a cube with just the right amount for my baking. That way, I just let it sit out in a bowl to thaw and once again, I'm keeping it simple in the kitchen.\n\nMy first batch was using some Peach-Mango Lemonade. The ice-cubes did not melt as fast, and they were yummy, as opposed to some watered down cube with no flavor messing up a cool, and otherwise refreshing beverage. I love mine and it was easy to clean and store more treats in. All this and it's BPA-Free, which is SO important to me!\n\nPros:\nLarge White tray measures 6.25 x 4.35 x 2 inches and creates 6 Large square cubes\nGreat for Cooks, Bakers, Crafters\nMulti-Functionality (use for beverages, cooking oils, natural bath soaps, etc.\nDishwasher Safe\nBPA-Free (BIG WINNER)\nEasy to clean and store\nGreat Ease to get out whatever you decide to put in it\nSatisfaction Guarantee!!! (Yeah)\n\nCons:\nNone reported.\n\nAbout the Seller:\nI ordered my Large White Ice Cube Tray from Chilled Creations on 6/27/13 and it arrived on 7/1/13...on time and although the inside plastic was somewhat ripped off, this could have occurred during shipment. The seller also had sent properer verification as to when the product would be delivered and when it shipped. Inside the box, was an insert with other potential uses, instructions, and website to visit for more ideas. Additionally, I received another email providing FAQ's about the product, which gives more information that was very helpful.\n\nRecommendations:\nThink outside the box. Yes, this large ice cube tray is great for regular ice-cubes. However, if you love to cook,or bake, or craft, then you'll find great ways to use these BPA-free, silicone, large, ice-cube trays sold by Chilled Creations. Great buy. Hope this helps!\n\nUPDATE: As of 7/23/13, I had to get another set of these large ice trays. Simply amazing. Yet now, I have more ice cubes to accent with during social gatherings. One cube will suffice for your guests. You can even get creative and put a sprig of mint, or raspberry, or strawberry for that matter when doing fruit juices to add some flair. Thanks so much Trove of Goods for putting out this great kitchen accessory! I also would say that they upped the ante and took notice of my previous comment about the ripped plastic I initially received. This time when I ordered, it was sealed in a sealer-tight plastic bag with a nice picture on the outside and then enclosed it was sealed in yet another plastic bag. This was great! A warning label was clearly pasted on the side, and it also had a Tips card on the inside as well. Awesome. You guys rock (pun intended).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4454, "id": 218019, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 595, "len_tokens": 772, "text": "I love this little machine.  I started doing laundry by hand because our local laundromat solutions are expensive and gross.  But dripping wet laundry is no good, it takes forever to dry and makes a mess wherever it's hanging!\n\nEnter the Nina.\n\nAfter I soap up the clothes, I put them in the Nina to extract soapy water, back into the bucket for a rinse, and then back into the Nina to spin dry for about 5 minutes.  When I take the clothes out, synthetics are almost completely dry (about an hour left to air-dry) and cottons are pretty dry (about 4 hours left to air-dry).  Obviously, your mileage may very depending on humidity, temperature, and airflow, as well as the individual properties of your clothes.  I have a cold apartment with poor airflow, so I use a box fan with my drying rack to accelerate the process.\n\nPros:\n\nIt's not terribly noisy.  It's a little louder than a fan.\n\nIt is fairly big.  It has the footprint of a 5 gallon bucket and is about 150% as tall.  I can squeeze it under my cabinetless bathroom sink though!\n\nIt is not very heavy.  Anyone with a normal amount of strength can move this thing.  It even comes with a handle for easy hauling.\n\nIt can fit a good amount.  I just took a load out:  2 women's M tees, 1 women's M yoga pants, 3 men's XL tees, 1 men's XL button-down, 1 men's XL long PJ pants, and 2 pairs boxers.  I do my laundry in a 5 gallon bucket and leave a little room for sloshing.\n\nIt's pretty good at self-regulating loads.  Once it's up to speed, it works very smoothly!  If it's still knocking 10 seconds in, you may need to shuffle the clothes around and try again.\n\nIt's very simple to use.  If it's plugged in and you close the lid, it starts spinning.  Open the lid, and it stops again.  Just don't forget and close the lid when you don't want it to spin.\n\nThe cord is conveniently long, but not too long.  It has built-in cord prongs on the back if the cord is too long for your needs.\n\nCons:\n\nClothes don't come out completely dry, but they're not supposed to!  If your shower rod is sturdy, you can hang things there; otherwise, you will want a rack, line, or something to maximize surface-area-to-air of your clothes.  The good news is that clothes do not drip after coming out of this, so hang them wherever you want!\n\nIt's accented in pink, which makes it look like a toy.  (Then again, my bathroom is salmon pink, so it matches nicely.)\n\nThe safety plate is hard to wrestle in sometimes.  You don't always need it, but I find it makes my loads more stable - and after finding clothing starting to spill over the drum, I always use it!\n\nIt didn't come with a bucket.  I'm using an old popcorn bowl.  Seems like a silly thing to leave out.\n\nIt drains whether or not you want it to.  Keep an old towel around just in case you need to dump your water catcher halfway through a load - a stream will still trickle out of the machine.\n\nI would not recommend this dryer to people with a conventional washer that has a good spin cycle - you won't see benefits.  However, I highly recommend it to people who use an unconventional washing method (the mini washers, handwashing, bucket laundry, etc) because it will make your drying life much better!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4455, "id": 218173, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 608, "len_tokens": 747, "text": "(Initial review on unpacking day -- will update after a week or two of use.)\n\nThe dryer was lighter than expected (but not so light as to feel cheap).  Build quality is good; packaging is tight fitting to protect it during shipping. Note: you must find and remove the shipping immobilizer under the base -- this is BOTH the metal angle iron and the heavy-duty plastic zip-tie holding it in place. The zip-tie is tricky to get out, even after cutting it open with scissors.  If either is not removed, the spinning mechanism can be damaged.  There is an X-shaped styrofoam spacer filling up the clothes chamber inside at the top to stabilize it during shipping -- remove it, but be prepared to vacuum out zillions of annoying styrofoam bits afterwards.  Finally, DON'T FORGET to set up a bowl or small bucket under the water drain spout at the bottom front!\n\nUse was simple and much faster than I expected -- just put in wet clothes no higher than the top of the inner chamber, slide in the flexible pink safety cover on top of the clothes but under the inner chamber rim, plug in the dryer, and close the hatch, which locks and activates the spinning.  Warning: I suggest leaning with some weight on the lid/dryer when you start it up, because if it is unbalanced, it will buck all over the place.  With experience in loading my clothes, I have reduced the number of bucking incidents and hope to pretty much eliminate them.  Assuming no bucking, the dryer quickly spins up to very high speed and water starts gushing out the drain spout in front. (This is when you will remember to put a dish/bucket in front if you haven't already! :) )  Once the water slows to individual drips, you are done. This usually happened within a minute or two for my loads of heavy-duty cotton T-shirts & cotton underwear.  The clothes came out surprisingly dry, definitely dryer than from my traditional full-size top-loading washer.\n\nWhy I didn't give it 5 stars (for now):\n1) I will upload photos of the machine and manual; the manual says the warranty is only 1 year, while the listing says 3 years. I have a request into Amazon to find out what's going on here.  Even if it's only a 1 year warranty, SquareTrade sells an appliance 3-year warranty here on Amazon for about 10% of the price of the dryer.\n2) Small capacity. Initially, it seems to fit only about 4 heavy-duty thick men's cotton T-shirts at a time; I suspect I will be able to add some socks and underwear at the same time as my loading skills improve.\n3) Sensitivity to uneven loading. I may change my mind on this as I improve my loading skills with practice.  It seems likely the best way to load it is to put the heaviest/largest items in first, and to extend each item in a circle shape around the center as much as possible, forming a donut-shaped pile of clothes at the bottom.\n\nThat said, I really like this machine:\n-) It's easy to move around and compact. I keep it next to my small table in the bathroom, then move it next to the sink and outlet when I want to use it.\n-) It's very quiet -- quieter than my bathroom exhaust fan (unless it starts bucking!).\n-) It's ridiculously fast -- a few minutes and it's spun out all the water it can, leaving the clothes surprisingly dry.\n-) It's easy to use, without any parts that look like they will break easily.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4456, "id": 218184, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 651, "len_tokens": 774, "text": "I went crazy when this Nina Soft Spin Dryer arrived. DP and I do our own laundry. He goes to the laundromat and I wash my stuff mostly by hand. He hates going to the laundromat and lets his dirty laundry pile up into huge mounds. I've been doing the hand-washing almost two years without benefit of anything but my hands and a few tub trugs and a strainer basket, but ringing out the clothes is really rough on me and I can't do the best job. DP wanted to get a small portable washing machine (which we aren't supposed to have in our apartment because of problems with leaking), but the more I read reviews of what's out there, the more I knew I did not want to spend that much money on what seem to be, today, largely inferior products. So I got this Nina dryer and one of those breathing washer things. (The latter item is a disappointment because the handle keeps falling out; it'll work great if I glue the handle into it.)\n\nBut this dryer! I am so knocked-out thrilled with it that I wanted to wash all the dirty laundry in the house, not only mine but DP's. He had 2 sets of full-sized sheets (one mismatched with a queen-sized flannel top sheet), two shams, and a pillowcase that I said I would wash for him because I was having so much fun with this Nina dryer. After the aggravation with the loose breathing washer handle, I just slopped those sopping-wet sheets into the dryer. I didn't even try to balance them much. I did them in three loads and just threw the sheets in. The one flannel sheet I did by itself, and that was the only one that gave me some balancing problems that I had to rectify. The other two loads (a set of sheets in one, one bottom sheet and the shams and pillowcase in the other) settled into smooth spinning quickly after closing the lid. I just held the sides until the spinning got going good.\n\nEverything went from sopping wet to spun out really close to dry in a minute or two. I didn't time it; I just watched for the water coming out to reduce to a bit of dribbling, then opened the lid to stop the dryer. I threw the load I'd just spun onto the bottom shelf of my dryer rack&mdash;no dripping!&mdash;started up another one, and then hung the first one. It was so EASY! Jiminy, if I had realized how wonderful this was going to be, I would have bought one of these Nina soft spin dryers two years ago! And the clothes came out smelling so fresh and clean (thanks in part to the breathing washer thing, ECOS HD instead of Tide, and a touch of vinegar in the rinse water), it was like clothes hung on the line in the breeze and sunshine when I was a child. I used to run through the sheets, and doing this laundry was a pleasant remembrance of the past.\n\nI washed two pairs of my Costco Gloria Vanderbilt denim capris and spun both pairs at the same time. I spun them until the dripping stopped, then hung them to dry. Five hours later they were almost completely dry and wearable, with only a tiny bit of moisture at the thick waist band, and it was pretty humid. I also washed a particularly nasty thick reversible white cotton rug and spun it dry in the dryer. It got a lot cleaner than it ever has in a washing machine; the threads didn't unravel more like they would have it a washer; and it was fully dry about a day later. The six bamboo T-shirts were a breeze to wash and dry; I could have put one on right out of the Nina. I'm just knocked out...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4457, "id": 218359, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 515, "len_tokens": 713, "text": "UPGATE 5 30 15:  Company sent out a replacement, right away.  I've had it about a week now, and am happy.  It's been working great!!!\n\nUPDATE 5 17 15:  I am so sad!!  It's been 1 uear and a few months since I've received my machine & suddenly, it stopped spinning today. I don't understand and am very upset. Until now, I LOVED my machine but now, I am in tears. I can't afford another right now & the laundromat costs too much. I bought the machine because I kept spraining fingers from wringing out clothes by hand and mow, what am I to do?\nUPDATE 5 27 14:  I recommend the following.  The two together have made my life easier.  When you get the washer, you may want to opt to glue the stick into the base.  Otherwise, you'll have to keep retightening it as it won't stay screwed in.  I just keep re-screwing it in by twisting the washer as I'm plungering the clothes.  In part because I haven't found the right adhesive.  Gorilla glue is probably what I need because the adhesive I used did not do the job.  It seems to be a glorified plunger but in retrospect, it is better than a plunger and does a decent job.  Much better than I can with a lot less pain from handwashing.\n\nhttp://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SQ7I5S/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1\n\nand I stil LOVE, LOVE, LOVE, LOVE, LOVE my Nina Soft Spin Dryer!\n\nORIGINAL REVIEW:  I sprained a few fingers trying to wring out laundry by hand, especially bulky things like pants and lightweight blankets.  Even my toddler's clothing were hard to wring out without having them drip everywhere.  I have to wash frequently in the tub and sink because I can no longer afford regular trips to the laundromat (thanks recession, 16 month lay-off and finding a new job paying more than 1/3 less - - way to go!  Yes, I'm still angry, 3 years later).\n\nNow I only have to go when the clothes start getting dingy.  Between machine washes, I hand wash and put them in this baby, spin for a few minutes and can then hang them up anywhere in the apartment because the clothes get as dry or drier than the spin cycle of a washing machine.  I didn't like the price but the machine works and is a godsend for me.  Now, I can wash a pair of work pants and not worry about them not getting dry by morning.\n\nBefore I purchased this, sometimes my clothes would not dry overnight in the winter.  Now, EVERYTHING i've handwashed has dried by morning on the coldest winter nights.  My apartment is usually not very warm because heat costs money so I tend to use humidifiers and lower the furnace, which is often on the blink anyway.\n\nI recommend this machine to everyone who handwashes, especially in bulk quantities and has no dryer or no room for a washer/dryer in their tiny apartment.  I place a sorbent pad and plastic shoebox under the spout to catch the water.\n\nI ABSOLUTELY LOVE THIS MACHINE!!!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4458, "id": 218411, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 595, "len_tokens": 786, "text": "The Nina Soft spin dryer is made in Brazil by an outfit called Mueller.\n\nIt seems to do a good job, but I have no other spin dryers with which to compare it.  I would have liked to have tried the original model that Laundry alternative imported.  I actually wanted to get the less expensive \"<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Mini-Countertop-Spin-Dryer-Clothes-Spin-Dryer-Portable-Clothes-Dryer/dp/B002HT0958/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Mini Countertop Spin Dryer Clothes Spin Dryer Portable Clothes Dryer</a>\" which I think has less capacity than the Nina Soft, but is less than 1/2 the cost of the Nina Soft.  The Mini Counter-top Dryer also has a built-in timer (with the Nina Soft lacks).  Unfortunately, Laundry Alternative wasn't shipping the counter-top model when I needed a spin dryer (evidently due to some QC issue).\n\nAt any rate, there is somewhat of a technique to balancing and positioning the clothes for optimal spinning and drying.  An unbalanced (or excessive) load of clothes could cause the drum to wobble excessively (which could damage the unit) and never get up to speed.\n\nEssentially, try to keep the clothes along the wall of the \"drum,\" with the heaviest articles of clothing on bottom and the lighter clothes on top.  Try to spread the clothes as flatly and as neatly as is reasonable (areas of the clothes that are thickly \"bunched-up\" along the wall tend to remain more damp after the spin).  The clothes should form a tube up the wall with a hollow center.  Folding the clothes into a strip helps avoid bunching-up.  Also, try to balance the articles on opposite sides of the drum (put one sock opposite another sock, etc.).\n\nIn addition, if you place a wringed-out article of clothing on one side of the drum, wring-out the article on the opposite side (sopping wet clothes on one side can cause wobble).\n\nI have found that only one or two heavy pieces are possible in the Nina Soft for it to start spinning without violent wobble.\n\nI have also discovered a special trick to balance denim jeans -- put the seat section on the center bottom of the drum, and spiral the pant legs up the sides of the drum.  Then, without adding any more clothes, spin the pair of jeans alone (with the \"protective disk,\" of course) for about twenty seconds to get rid of the excess water.  Then, stop the spin and shove the seat of the jeans along one wall and add more clothes, with care to add a little more weight to the side opposite the jeans seat.  Then, spin as usual.\n\nIt's too bad that Mueller didn't include a manual power switch (or a timer).  The instructions actually have one plugging the unit into the wall socket with the lid closed, which starts the spin.  However, such a procedure could cause mild arcing at the wall plug, which isn't too great.  I have a short extension cord with an in-line switch, and it works well.  Of course, when the lid is opened during the spin, the Nina Soft's internal switch cuts the power to the spin motor, and when the lid is further opened, a friction strap brake closes around a flywheel to stop the drum from spinning.  I flip the switch on my cable and let the motor spin down a little before I open the lid, to save the brake.\n\nOne more thing, the water sprays wide out of the nozzle and off to one side a little.  So, get a wide, round, plastic bowl or shallow tub to catch the water.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4459, "id": 218742, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 563, "len_tokens": 719, "text": "We bought this fridge about two weeks ago, and we really love it.\n\n1. It's enormous and holds a ton of stuff. It also feels like a very high-quality product. The doors are like 4\" thick, and when you open them, it feels like you're opening the vault at a bank.\n\n2. It's versatile. In addition to having adjustable shelves (as most fridges do), this fridge has two very helpful \"flip\" shelves that enable you to store tall items easily. Also, the deli drawer has a cool adjustable compartment and independently adjustable temperature controls.\n\n3. We totally love the deli drawer, and it's the primary reason that we chose this product over others. We used the deli drawer a lot in our previous (Kenmore Elite) refrigerator. It's great to be able to access stuff in the deli drawer without having to open the fridge. Also, in most fridges, the deli drawers are made of relatively flimsy molded plastic, whereas this deli drawer has the vault-esque qualities as mentioned above.\n\n4. It's quiet. It's way, way quieter than the Kenmore Elite refrigerator that we replaced (and relegated to the garage as a beer fridge). On Consumer Reports, this fridge gets a \"very good\" rating for noise, which is shy of an \"excellent\" rating. The problem with buying a fridge is that they aren't plugged in at the store, so you have no way to compare the noise and actual functionality of the products. But, I'd be surprised if there's any fridge on the market that's noticeably quieter than this one, as this one is really dang quiet.\n\n5. We also like the sparkling water feature, and we've been using it quite a bit. That said, people, don't buy this refrigerator \"for\" the sparkling water feature -- or if you do, hedge your expectations a bit. This product is *not* a soda fountain or a Coca-Cola bottling factory with a refrigerator attached to it. Rather, it's a *refrigerator* that has a little sparkling water *feature.* I know that Samsung is really overhyping this feature, and because of that, it didn't meet many people's expectations and those people are now ranting about it. Ultimately, it's fine and it's a nice convenience, nothing more and nothing less. We lucked out, and we got this refrigerator for an amazing price, and for even less money than the model that does not include the sparkling water. So, for us, the sparkling water is just a bonus. If we hadn't got this refrigerator for such a great price, we would've likely opted for the model that does not include the sparkling water and saved a little money. I wouldn't have paid an extra $150-ish for the sparkling water.\n\nBottom line, so far, after about two weeks of use, I really don't have anything bad to say about this fridge. My one word of advice, however, is to measure the area where you'll put this fridge very carefully and make sure that you give yourself about 1/2\" of leeway to accommodate the published width of this product. When I took the measurements at our house, we \"should have\" had about 1/4\" of wiggle room for the fridge. However, when we actually installed the fridge, it was a smidge wider than the published dimensions, and it just barely fit in our space. I was sweatin' it....\n\nGood luck with your purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4460, "id": 219202, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 598, "len_tokens": 711, "text": "PRODUCT - Visually, this is an attractive unit.  The black casing and glass front with LED display look very classy.  I think the cooler looks fine in the corner of our formal dining room.\n\nFunctionally, the box does a good job cooling, although there is a temperature difference between the upper and lower shelves, roughly 7 degrees, with the lower shelves a few degrees below the programmed temperature and the upper ones a little above. I did this test multiple times over a few days and got consistent results each time. The shelf temperatures were logged when the unit was full with 32 bottles. I didn't do any temperature testing it when not completely filled, since I plan to keep it full most of the time. I set the temperature on the side with the white wines to 46, the lowest value available, and the side with the reds to 52.  The temp delta between the highest and lowest shelves was nearly the same, again about 7 degrees, on both the left and right sides.  I suppose one way to deal with this temperature difference between the top and bottom shelves would be to set both the left and right side to 49 degrees and then put the white wines on the lower shelves and the reds on the uppers. At least that way, theres less variation between each of the reds as well as between each of the whites, although that really defeats the whole purpose of having the dual-temperature control feature.\n\nAs for noise, the refrigerator runs very quietly.  Beyond 15 feet away, I can't hear it at all.  Closer than that, its just a very soft refrigerator hum.  Definitely no issues there.\n\nFor internal space, as some people have noted on other AKDY models, most of the shelves don't have sufficient room to hold Pinot or Champagne bottles, although on this particular unit, the bottom shelf has a little more space than the other shelves and is able to accommodate those types, making it is possible to store 4 larger bottles on the lowest shelf.  Alternatively, the wooden shelves are removable, so one could choose to sacrifice some of the shelves to deal with the storage of additional larger bottles.\n\nPACKAGING & SHIPPING - This is a weak spot with the product.  I had to order 3 before I received one that was undamaged.  The first two had the front door glass shattered, and there was no visible damage on the external box so, in my opinion, the styrofoam packing thats used isn't really robust enough to deal with typical handling during shipping, by FedEx in this case.\n\nCUSTOMER SERVICE - I have to give kudos to the AKDY company for dealing with the shipping problems mentioned above.  I was contacted by a Customer Service Rep after they became aware of the issue.  They took special steps on the third shipment to add some extra protection to the external box, and this one arrived without any damage to the unit.  I received quick responses via both phone and email.  They provided outstanding support in dealing with the shipping damage and getting a replacement unit to me in pristine condition.\n\nSUMMARY - Given the features, price, overall good reviews on most of the AKDY wine coolers, and customer service, I'm glad I chose this particular brand and model.  The only minuses I see are the temperature variations between upper and lower shelves and also the packaging, as previously mentioned, but overall, I would recommend this product to anyone looking for a wine cooler of this size.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4461, "id": 220310, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 613, "len_tokens": 742, "text": "The small plastic latch that keeps the soap drawer in broke just after a year of use.  I was still covered by the parts warranty, but no longer under the Electrolux labor warranty.  But I'd purchased the extended warranty through the authorized seller.  It was a simple part to replace, but Electrolux customer support insisted they couldn't send me the part directly unless I purchased it, that I would have to have a service technician come out to do the repair, and that only they could file a claim to get the part under warranty.  Having had a bad experience with one of their authorized service providers (all subcontractors) with a warranty dryer repair (more on that another time), I reluctantly agreed, having paid for the extended warranty after all.  I knew the exact part number needed.  I passed this on to both the extended warranty people and official Electrolux designated subcontractor.  I specifically told the service people that it would be an easy fix, that they simply needed to bring this part, and not to come by without it as I was going to have to take time off work to be there for the day.  So of course they send someone to suss the job anyway, causing me to miss a day of work for nothing.  But the worst part was the technician wanted me to sign a lengthy contract, stating he'd already fixed the machine and authorizing him to do repairs he deemed necessary to everything from my dryer gas lines to anything else he felt like doing or billing me for.  He snapped, \"No, contract, no service.\"  I didn't sign, of course.  I'm painting this way nicer than it all went down.  The service guy and his contract was as close to a scam as I ever want to be.  My real concern is for people who are way too trusting and sign a contract that'll end up costing them hundreds if not thousands of dollars for made up work.  Despite my further efforts to get Electrolux to send me this $6 plastic part (which likely costs them less than $1 to manufacture), I ended up paying the $10 (Electrolux wouldn't even throw in shipping - mind you on a part on a washer still under parts warranty) and I fixed it myself.  I even took the time to complete Electrolux's customer service survey in which they stated someone would get back to me if I was unhappy with the result.  They never got back to me. Obviously they decided that a lifetime loyal Electrolux customer wasn't worth retaining. This whole matter caused family stress while we waited weeks for the service guy to come, only to not have the part, and then more time waiting for the part to come to me directly - all the while having to tape the drawer closed in order to even use the machine.  Looked real nice.  Our expensive, color-matching front-loading washer/dryer with pedestals -- with its soap drawer held closed with blue painter's tape.  And whenever the paint would pop out from the pressure of the spring, you risked tearing your arm open as you walked by from the edge of the drawer.  Keep in mind that they could have retained a happy customer, despite 2 out of 3 bad service experiences (all different sub-contracted companies), if they'd just been willing to send me my part which was still under warranty or if they'd even followed up with me after I'd left specific requests for them to do so.  They didn't seem to get that it wasn't about the money, it was about doing what was right.  They simply didn't care.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4462, "id": 222425, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 654, "len_tokens": 726, "text": "I am writing this review as my washer is running in the kitchen while I am watching TV and it's quiet enough that I don't even hear it while its running. If you are considering buying this product I have some advice for you. If you are going to run this off of a kitchen sink faucet you are going to want to order a Y splitter to hook to the back of the washer so the water from your sink can mix into both inputs on your washing machine. To find this product search Amazon for the following: \"Y Washing Machine Mixer Hose\". If you are planning on running this off of a kitchen sink it will not run properly, even if you select a hot or cold only wash, the machine will still a tempt to mix hot and cold water on certain cycles and if you don't have this splitter hooked up, the machine will attempt to pump water from both input spigots. To fix this issue, install this splitter, which will hook right up to the hose that comes with your washer that has a quick disconnect on it. To make set up easy you need to remove your old faucet head and replace it with the top half of the quick disconnect. When you install it MAKE SURE you wrap all threads all the way from the hot water inputs on the washer all the way to the disconnect installed on your faucet and all threads on the splitter. If every thread does not have Teflon Tape, you WILL get a leak as you are connecting metal to plastic threads. Some of you are curious about how much clothes this machine can run and I am very impressed with the capacity for thee 1.6 CF stainless steel barrel. I am able to fill the machine up with one normal sized basket of laundry. I have done 5 towels, 4 shirts, and roughly a dozen pairs of socks and a few undergarments in one load, just make sure that your clothes don't sit higher than the three agitator jets on the side of the barrel, or they won't be cleaned and set machine to highest water level. My third piece of advice for modifying this machine is that if you are going to be storing this machine in a different place then you will be using it is to purchase a set of 4 wheels. You can get these at your local harbor freight or home depot or lowes, then line them up on the bottom of the machine, drill your pilot holes for where the wheels will be and install your bolts from the bottom and install a nut on each bolt from the interior side of the machine. I would highly recommend this unless you want to have two people pick this big boy up to carry it around as the wheels that are on here stock do not work worth a darn. Overall I am completely satisfied with this machine and I would definitely recommend it to anyone lacking washer dryer inputs or space for a larger machine. Oh,....IT IS SO NICE NOT GOING TO THE LAUNDROMAT ANYMORE!!!!! Happy washing all. If anyone has any questions about installing these modifications post a question on here I will answer it.\n\nUPDATE: I've been running the washer heavily for one year with no problems. The washer in the above review is the model with no dryer built in. This washer has been so great to me that I am now buying the washer dryer combo model(there are several model options)  I have permanently plumbed my current washer into my water lines and drain lines under the sink just thought I'd throw that out there for anyone interested in a more permanent setup that this is possible to do... Will update again when I receive the combo unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4463, "id": 224308, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 614, "len_tokens": 741, "text": "This is a good replacement OEM motor for my 30 + years old dryer.\nThe instructions were reasonably clear.  Note that this motor will retrofit many models so it may require some minor customizations (instructions include them all in a brief manner).\nThe metals slotted bands which hold the motor in place are tricky to remove and you could get hurt from their sharp edges. Using a screw driver to  stretch the bands to remove or secure them on their place can cause the screw driver to slip and cause serious cuts.  A nut driver with a small socket to hold the curled edge of the metal bands worked better since it will not easily slip off the metals band ends.  But, be careful in this step.\n\nI made one wiring error which gave me a lot of grief.  The instructions asked to remove and discard a short blue jumper wire between the 'overload switch' and the 'motor switch' (which has multiple male spade terminals).  I realized that I had mistakenly connected the 4A blue main harness wire (from the dryer) to the terminal 4  on the motor switch side (a 1/8\" spade connector) where the rest of the dryer harness connections were made to connect.  The right thing to do is to connect the 4A blue main harness wire (from the dryer) to the overload switch side which has a wider spade (1/4\") connector.  (The dryer harness had a female 1/4\" spade connector - which mated perfectly). Once having fixed the connection, it worked perfectly.  (I wish the FSP instructions were a bit more clear).\n\nTo check correct connections, do the following at your own risk and only if you understand how to wire and understand electrical connections.  Do not put in the drum and belt.  Disconnect main plug of the dryer.  Complete all dryer harness to motor connections, secure motor with its bands.\nDo either Step A or B:\nStep A:  Bypass the door switch (Note: One side of the door switch wire has a single wire running to a single spade terminal.  This is the hot wire.  The other side of the door switch has two spade terminals and two wires.  Depressing the door switch (when dryer door is closed) allows the motor to turn and shuts off the drum light.  On opening the dryer door, the non-depressed switch shuts the motor and turns on the dryer light).  With door switch disconnected from all three wires, find which of the two spade connectors shows continuity to the single spade connector on the other side of the door switch when the door switch in its depressed position (This will be the terminal whose wire allows power to the motor). Short the door switch hot wire to this wire.\nOR, skip Step A and do Step B:\nStep B:  You can remove the door switch from the dryer panel and make the connections normally.  Ensure insulation of the door switch terminals from everything else.\n\nLeave nothing exposed to making grounding shorts to dryer body.  Check all connections carefully and out in the dryer plug.\nIf you did Step A, then the motor should run only upon hitting the 'Start' button and stay on.\nIf you did Step B, then you will need to additionally depress the door switch while making sure that the door switch terminals do not touch you or anything else. Again,ensure insulation of the door switch terminals from all else.  Motor should run only upon hitting the 'Start' button and stay on.  Releasing the door switch button should turn it off.\n\nThe motor tends to have a bit of a howl when warm.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4464, "id": 225287, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 584, "len_tokens": 730, "text": "An appliance repair man wanted $150 to replace our broken icemaker.  It worked when it felt like it, and water leaked from both ends when it did.  On a whim, I ordered this piece.  Make sure you put your ENTIRE model number.  We have a Whirlpool, and the model number on the door was different from the model number listed on the right side wall of the fridge.  The assembly comes with several different wiring arrangements.  What I did was leave the original wiring, unplug the wire that came with the assembly and plug the old wiring into the new assembly.  I did this because I knew the old unit was producing ice, so there was no electrical reason why the old wiring wouldn't work.  If that ever became the case, I still have the wires that came with the assembly and can switch them out if necessary.\n\nAll you need is a ratchet that fits the existing screws on the old unit.  Truthfully, if you don't know what you're doing (like me) I watched a few YouTube videos on how the install the unit.  It's really simple.  UPPLUG THE FRIDGE!!!!  If you can't get back there, flip the circuit breaker.  Unscrew the bottom screw (watch out you don't drop it... it's hard to find In a freezer full of food (did you think I dropped it????  You're right if you did).  There are two screws on top... just loosen them and the unit can be lifted off those screws.  You'll see on the bottom a a little square with a lever that you can push with a screw driver and that will release the wire plug that goes to the wall of the freezer.  Remove the old unit, plug the plug into the new unit, set it in place over the 2 top screw, insert the bottom screw and you're good to go.\n\nHere's where I freaked out... It didn't make ice for two days, but I read that the unit has to reach a certain temperature to produce ice, so I let it go another day, and then back to YouTube... Why is my new icemaker not making ice? So here's where the Freak started...  I needed to \"jumpstart\" the motor.  You take a wire with two bare ends (make sure it's insulated... wrap some black tape around it, or a piece of rubber, and insert the ends into these tiny holes marked T and H on the front of the unit.  I cut an old plug from a radio that didn't work, scraped the plastic of the two end twisted them.  I wasn't sure if I was going to set the house on fire or electrocute myself, but neither happened... The dial started to turn and I heard water fill the tray.  YAY!!!!!  It's working fine now, and I have a full ice bin.  Took about 2 days, but I'm so happy not to have to buy bags of ice anymore... been doing that for a year.\n\nThis is a great way to go to save a bundle of money.  Delivery was quick, and everything you need came in the box.  It was in perfect condition, and this is a genuine Whirlpool part, so there's no problem with fitting.  You will find tons of help on line via YouTube and many handyman websites.  Watch out for sites that want money to tell you how to fix something.  I'm sure they're helpful, but there are many, many free sites.\n\nGood luck!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4465, "id": 235203, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 537, "len_tokens": 701, "text": "I struggled for a long time, trying to figure out why our 2.5 year old Amana NTW4600Q1 washer wouldn't spin correctly and did a lot of very strange things.  I initially thought it had to be the main control board and for $320, I wasn't going to do that - I'd just buy a new washer.  After several hours over several weeks of troubleshooting, I finally figured out that there is a somewhat unwritten secret....  Inside the body of most washers, there is a technician's manual.  What a find that was.  In my case, I just took the top off of the washer and low and behold, there it was inside the front in a ziplock bag that was glued to the inside.  The troubleshooting instructions in the manual are what finally led me to this part on Amazon.  Wow, I thought - what a crappy washer design.  There are this many people buying this actuator, and the lengthy comments really cemented that for me.  So, I swore if this worked for me, I would write a fair review.  I typically weigh a lot of my buying decisions on the comments I read.  I owe a lot of time and money to those that took time to document their experience.  So, here are a few of my own.  Basically, from what I can gather, this actuator works on a lot of Kenmore, Amana, Whirpool and Maytag washers, which are apparently all assembled by the same \"core\" company.  In my case, I followed the directions in the technician's manual, and was able to produce the codes that led me here.  I ordered the part.  Replacement took about 10 minutes.  In my particular configuration, I was able to pull the washer out a bit from the wall, unplug it and lean it back.  You have to remove 4 fasteners and one wiring connector to replace this actuator.  Two fasteners hold the belt cover on (2 5/16\" head screws), the other two hold the actuator to the bottom of the washer (2 phillips screw heads).  Take the four fasteners out, and the wiring connector last.  Reverse to install, and make sure you get the shifting pin back into the transmission.  Simple task.  Afterwards, I did run the \"Calibration\" mode, even though according to the manual, this part is not named as a part that requires re-calibration.  Just for grins, I took apart the old actuator, and unlike another review I read, there were no broken gears.  I suspect mine failed electronically, due to the abuse this part has to take.  The fault is the design of the washing machines, not the fault of the part.  This part gets whipped around at the bottom of the tub.  Maybe they could redesign the part and make it more durable, but the actuator does take major abuse.  I'll probably order another one just to have as a spare.  Based on the quantity sold and how fast the \"items remaining\" declines, this is a very common problem.  I called a friend of mine after I figured out what the problem was, and he said \"Don't tell me, it's the W10006 something actuator\".  He's an appliance repair guy.  I should have called him first!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4466, "id": 242801, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 593, "len_tokens": 749, "text": "This is the proper replacement ice maker, however, there are some important things that you need to know.\n\n1) Pop the plastic cover off of your old ice maker & match the model number to this unit's model number. If they match, you have the correct unit.\n2) Order this replacement unit. DO NOT REMOVE YOUR OLD UNIT YET, or you'll be sorry (I know, as I was)!\n...\nOnce your new unit arrives in the mail (or whatever) from AMAZON:\n\n1) Unpack the unit & verify that it has the same model number. If ok, then:\n2) Shut off the water supply & unplug the refrigerator/freezer\n3) Remove the old unit. (You may need a flashlight, a mirror, a nut-driver (mine required a 7mm driver), and a small spade-shaped screwdriver (used to pop out the electrical connection). DO NOT THROW ANYTHING AWAY!\n4) Compare the two units. Mine needed to have a U shaped piece of plastic cut out so that it would fit in to the freezer properly\n5) Screw the two upper holding screws back in about 25%. Reconnect the electrical connections. Then pop the unit back in & tighten the screws down.\n6) Turn on the water, plug the refrigerator/freezer back into the wall\n7) Sit back & wait. ... About 2 ~ 4 hours later, you should see some Ice pop out. ...\n\nWhat can go wrong?\n\n1) Remove & throw away the old unit before receiving the replacement unit. There is no way to verify the unit is the same thing & weather, or not, the cut out needs to be removed without the old unit for comparison.\n2) The replacement unit DOES NOT COME WITH REPLACEMENT MOUNTING SCREWS! Toss 'em & you're SOL!\n3) Try to install the unit before checking that the cut out needs replacing. (My mistake!)\n4) Get so frustrated that you return the unit & purchase a totally new refrigerator/freezer (at great expense)!\n\nSpecial note: You can (depending on your expertise):\n\n1) Replace the whole unit as I did\n2) Replace only the Drive Module\n3) Replace only the Drive Motor\n\nIn any case, you will need:\n\n1) A Flashlight (A headset unit is the best under the circumstances)\n2) A 6\" mirror to see around a corner (trust me, you'll need it)\n3) An English & Metric nut driver, or socket, set (I used a 7mm nut driver on the screws in my freezer)\n4) A medium sized flat spade bladed screw driver to pop off the electrical connector\n\nI hope that this helps.\n\nADDED 6 Dec 2017: The unit stopped working and no new ice came out around 2 weeks ago. My SO said that she figured that no water was getting to the unit. I waited & nothing happened.\n\nThen last night she placed a large crock pot bowl that she had been cooking on the top shelf of the refrigerator for storage overnight. ... This morning the dogs woke me up to let them out to do their business. ... And, what did I hear as I waited at the kitchen door? The clunk, clank, rattle of a set of ice cubes dropping into the ice bin!\n\nWhat seems to have happened is that the water feed line, which ran behind the refrigeration portion of my sideXside refrigerator had frozen & the shock of the heat thrown off by that large ceramic pot as it cooled melted the freeze. So, if this happens to you, consider this as a possible reason before buying a replacement unit.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4467, "id": 244229, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 645, "len_tokens": 787, "text": "Pros: Look at it! It's absolutely adorable and our son fell in love (especially with the association from Dora & Diego with baby jaguar). He was taking it everywhere with him. Very soft.\nCons: Immediately, it was shedding everything from small individual strands to larger clumps of fur...we thought it might just be the initial period of a few days but it ending up lasting for 3 weeks. We thought it had gotten better, but then I looked at my son's hands right after he had taken baby jaguar around and they were covered with fur...on his face, close to his eyes, on my clothes, it was just all over. A few people on Amazon confirmed this did not happen with theirs and I got a defective one. Looking at all of Wild Republic reviews now though, it appears that while some are well made, a hefty percentage come with rips/holes at the seams or keep shedding and have a white string poking out like ours did. While it was made right, here's my additional notes regarding Wild Republic compared with a couple other companies:\n\nI've tried quite a few brands of stuffed animals for my son and the Cuddlezoo dinosaur and the Aurora brands are hands down the best quality I've found so far. Wanted to love Wild Republic, but even after several replacements and despite how cute they are, a large portion of their animals tend to be defective with clumps of hair shedding or seams opening almost immediately. The jaguar I finally got that didn't shed a ton immediately proved to shed here and there after a couple weeks of use. The elephant we got that I was initially thrilled with because it didn't shed at all, 2 days later with barely any play I noticed that the seam was open halfway on one of the tusks. So in the future I'd definitely spend the extra money to get something by Cuddlezoo or Aurora. The Cuddlezoo dinosaur is cute, great expression and colors, very soft (but scales are more textured), and more realistic than other dinosaurs I've seen...a decent size for toddler or smaller children. My only MINOR complaint is that it's difficult sometimes to stand on it's feet but you can usually fix that and get it to stand fairly well. Also a warning on Aurora stuffed animals, they're usually much smaller than you expect and smaller than Wild Republic measurements which usually are for the height I believe...I got a 12\" labrador from Aurora expecting 12\" high or at least a full 12 inches long, but it looks not much bigger than a beanie with MAYBE measuring 12 inches long from nose tip to the end of the tail. But like Cuddlezoo, they never shed and are extremely well made. HOWEVER, I am thrilled to find Aurora's \"Destination Nation\" line...these 12\" animals are exactly the size of Wild Republic's 12\" Cuddlekins, same price point, but soooooo much better quality. I've since got a few more Aurora plush and they are all wonderful with NO shedding.\n\n**Update, dropped my rating down to 1 star on the Wild Republic. Some weeks later: I thought the jaguar wasn't shedding much, but have been noticing again black or clear strands on my son's palms (and he's constantly putting hands in his mouth)...I took a sticky lint roller to it and had tons of crud coming off including clumps off the tail and seam areas...FIVE times with separate sheets I rolled off stuff and it is STILL coming off. Absolutely ridiculous...no small child should have to risk ingesting all this stuff because a company can't properly assemble most of its products. My son's so attached to it too...if anyone knows of a brand that makes a nice larger jaguar that doesn't shed, please leave a comment as I'm still searching for one. Thanks", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4468, "id": 249961, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 605, "len_tokens": 770, "text": "Maytag has enjoyed an outstanding record for performance and reliability of their appliances and quickly became the gold standard in the washing machine arena for nearly a century. Unfortunately, rapid acquisition of other brands, including Amana, contributed to Maytag introducing many cost-cutting initiatives that in the end, compromised Maytag's ability to remain competitive and the market leader for reliability.  An avalanche of consumer complaints on Maytag's low-end \"Performa\" and \"Legacy Series\" line of washing machines surfaced in combination with Maytag's \"Neptune\" units which were recalled by the Consumer Product Safety Commission due to fire hazard potential and a class-action lawsuit resulting in the company hemorrhaging millions in settlement costs to consumers..  This was, essentially the end of what we used to know as genuine Maytag units.\n\nOn April 1, 2006, Maytag was acquired by Whirpool Corporation and the original Maytag production plants were subsequently closed.  Whirpool then assumed all brand administration although the Maytag Brand is still used on Whirpool-designed appliances and repair parts.\n\nThis explains why when you contact Maytag (800) 344-1274, your call is routed to Whirpool Corporation in Benton Harbor, MI. and their call centers.\n\nThank goodness that these relatively-common service parts are still available to DIY consumers like myself.  If you are lucky enough to have an original Maytag (manufactured in Newton, IA) then I strongly suggest you repair the unit if it is cost-effective.  The three most common repairs to these units are the drain hose(s), pump and transmission/drive belts.\n\nPROS:\n\n1. This is a common replacement part and the genuine OEM replacement curved drain hose for many Maytag washing machines manufactured in the 1980's and 1990's-Back when Maytag meant quality build and performance and the units were built like a Sherman Tank!\n2. This part is manufactured in the USA and distributed by Whirpool Corporation and supplied in a sealed plastic bag with the Whirpool name.\n3. Fits properly on both ends for a perfect seal.\n\nCONS:\n\n1.  None-I would however, like to see the two drain hose brackets supplied with the hose as a kit.  For first time DIY's, it would also be useful to have a brief, clearly labeled diagram and simple instructions.\n\nBOTTOM LINE:\n\n1. I paid $13.25 for this hose through Amazon. Don't get ripped off by other appliance parts distributors that charge $18-27 for an imported item.\n\nThere is no question about the fit if you are careful in cross-referencing the correct replacement number for your Maytag appliance.  Part #: 213045 fits the Maytag A-612 and many others seamlessly. Be certain to also have your serial and \"series\" # available if you call and/or order online. You will find these on the riveted metal plate located on the top of your machine for top-loading machines like the A-612.\n\n2. This is an extremely simple repair that should save you at least $85-115 on a service call.  Be sure to ask for two new mounting brackets when you purchase your drain hose. These are not included with the hose but often necessary and strongly recommended to replace if they have become rusted or seized.\n\n3. I spray the inside of the new drain hose with a light coating of heavy-duty silicone for ease in attaching to the pump assembly.  Be careful not to force the hose onto the plastic pump assembly as it can break. Tighten each clamp gently but firmly, especially on the pump end and run the unit through a cycle or two to insure that there are no residual leaks before you put the front cover back on the machine. That's it and you should be good for another 25 years!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4469, "id": 260361, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 741, "len_tokens": 795, "text": "Ok keep in mind this review is being written before I have installed the hood and is about first impressions. The hood is nice, seems well made although somewhat lighter construction than I would have thought. All the bits and pieces are provided and the install manual looks to be very well done. I would have liked it to had Led lights instead of what it came with but it does look as if these can be changed out. One bit of design problem is that the hanging eyes are not offset so you can put up a board to connect to on the back .. and they are not spaced apart far enough to connect to 16 inch centers .. this results in some major work to get a stable hanging platform which will not pull loose and fall on the stove.\n  The packing around the outside of the unit was very good and no doubt saved it from being a total disaster. To say the shipper had dropped it more that once was putting mildly. Perhaps Z line should switch shippers. The parts which were enclosed  inside the hood had come loose and were banging around which resulted in a small dent in the outer shell and another in the rack mount inside. Now normally these would not be of too much concern but when you pay full price for something,you expect it to not be damaged. On another note, why you might ask did I not say something to the UPS guy when it ws delivered ... well that was because he dropped it off across the highway at another house .. both houses have the same 1036 address but on different roads with completely different spelling. You cannot get them mixed up if you only read the darn label and the road signs. So i was not able to reject the shipment because of obvious exterior damages. What to do now ... I need to put up the hood so I can continue on with my kitchen remodel .. but the small dents will drive my wife nuts ..and I still don't know if it suffered any more damage inside .Well now I do know .. the impact on the outside caused things on the inside to bounce around causing more damage than i first saw ... when you pay over 1 thousand dollars for an item, you really expect it to be in good shape on when you get said item. After mulling it over for a few days we decided to contact UPS to see what could be done as they were the ones we thought could fix the problem .. no so .. you see as we had not shipped thru them, Amazon had, it was up to Amazon to make the claim. So on to Amazon ... not at first real good, you see they do not make it easy to ring them up and let them know something happened ... however Siri on an apple phone knew the phone number for customer service .. once connected things got better but it was still a pain in the butt .. we had to ship it back. once they receive it 7 days later  we will get a full refund, that's good, not great but good, however what happens if for some reason UPS screws up again and ships it to the wrong place ..that's bad ... oh and they will send us another one should we decide we want one ...that's good but who is to say they won't ship it via UPS again who may  well deliver it to the wrong address .. that's bad .. now again, its not so much that I have a bad impression of the hood or the company who made it .. its the shipping I don't think a lot of .. and the idea that its so hard to get to someone to talk about the problem .. part of the problem it seems is my fault .. in trying to be fair to the product, I gave it a 4 star before I was fully aware of the damage .. this did not trigger and look see by Amazon as to why there was a low rating on this product .. so now I have dropped the rating down to a 2 star again because of the shipping ... hope this helps ..", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4470, "id": 260768, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 640, "len_tokens": 798, "text": "So, we wanted a good looking chimney style vent hood that did not break the bank to replace our over the range micro which was completely useless for removing cooking smoke and grease. 640 CFMs for less than $300? Decent reviews on Amazon?  Sold! Are the rest of you reviewers paid by ZLine? Because this is the biggest piece of garbage, waste of money that I have ever invested in. Saying a lot, I know, but read on...\n\nFor the price, I did not expect this to be on par with a Ventahood, or even a lower end Broan, but I *did* expect it to function, at least minimally. Word to the wise: you get what you pay for with this one. Had it not been too late to return this item without a hefty $100 shipping fee by the time our kitchen remodel was almost complete and we were ready to install, this would have gone right back. Unfortunately, we found that there is zero useful information on the company website, much less a human to talk to. Just try to find any information on the ZLine website, and you will see that this is a shoddy company---no useful contact info, product info, etc. Cruddy piece of garbage made in China, although the company as listed in Ohio. . The back story, for those who are interested in details:\n\nThe product arrived missing a critical piece (back piece for holding the chimney sleeve), but the vendor replaced right away. So far, so good. Then the problems began...\n\nFirst, one of the halogen bulbs was DOA. After reviewing the cr@ppy installation manual, which listed the page for replacement incorrectly as page 23, but alas, is actually on page 25  (seriously? They can't bother to proofread the instructions?), I set about replacing the bulb. Had I actually attempted to follow the instructions provided (again, on the wrong page) , complete with inaccurate and completely indecipherable instructions and diagram, I would have broken the not only the entire bulb, but its housing assembly. Luckily, I'm fairly handy and not a complete moron (well, except for purchasing this thing:). The holes for the light bulb were honed incorrectly, uneven and nearly impossible to get a bulb in, but after working gently on it for a while, I eventually got it to work. Still, this process took much longer than it should have, and frankly, I should not have been forced to deal with it right out of the gate.\n\nFast forward to installation a few weeks later: terrible diagrams and instructions, yet again. Our contractor got the main body up with just a few annoying issues. Then, however, the problems started again. Included with the vent hood is a plastic flexible duct piece. Umm, not only is this type of flexible plastic duct not to code just about anywhere in the US, but it is a fire hazard. The manufacturer knows this, of course, as they state to use rigid ducting. So, why include an unsafe and against code component at all? Lack of integrity, I would gather. Off to the big box store to get yet another part for this new piece-o-junk, this time rigid ducting in the correct diameter, and then...\n\nThe bar that holds the chimney cover was bent, and would not allow the sleeves to slide in correctly. After an hour of cursing and finagling, contractor and DH evidence to snip the sides of the sleeve to allow fitting. Eventually, it works, sort of. Whatever, we are over it t this point. We figure, pice of junk but now it's done! Turn it on! And!  Ummmm...\n\nAt full speed, a defeating roar I might add, this thing does not even cause a piece of paper to flutter directly underneath its vents. Completely and utterly useless. 600 cfm? My @ss.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4471, "id": 260799, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 588, "len_tokens": 798, "text": "5 stars for the initial review.  Longevity is important for appliances...so we'll see how she does over the next months/years.  Overall, I'm extremely pleased with this hood.  For $300, it is what it is.  It's eye-candy.  Looks incredible and makes a huge statement.  But everything else about it is just kind of \"chincy.\"  Not disappointed, as you have to expect that at this price point.  The buttons don't push down very easily/evenly, the wires are dangling loose in the inner fan (some of their 3M tape came loose), some of the baffles fit loosely thus creating a lopsided effect (a gentle bending corrected the situation) the supplied screws/anchors are a joke.  But hey, it looks incredible, and it does it's job...suck's the hot air.  And for that, I'm stoked to spend only $300 on this!  I've posted pictures for you to see....again, it looks awesome.  The packaging job was incredible.  And it comes coated with a protective film that protects the stainless finish until the final reveal.  It is a little hard to peel off the film on the chimney extension unit.  The other reviews said it scratches very easily...so I installed the chimney unit first, then peeled off the coating.  I had to use a razor blade to score it just below the sight-line on one of the chimney extensions for a \"clean break.\"  Was a little nervous removing it from the box because some of the protective film had its own scratches.  I was worried those would transfer to the stainless steel.  Thankfully, they did not.  The noise is a non-issue.  It's a fan people...it's going to make noise.  On the highest setting, you need to raise your voice if you're standing directly by the hood trying to have a conversation.  But the other settings did not require my wife and I to \"raise our voices.\"  It's fine.  Yes, all of the other reviewers are correct: buy new ductwork.  The supplied plastic ductwork is a joke.  It really is \"easy\" to install in that all you have to do is hang the thing.  Everything else is literally plug and play!\n\nOne more thought.  We have a 30\" stove and I naturally was going to buy the 30\" hood.  But right before my purchase, I started doing a little more research and many suggested to purchase a hood larger than your stove, to ensure it covers all of your burners.  So at the last second, I opted for the 36\" hood.  SOOOOO glad I did.  Not only does it look better on the wall, it efficiently \"sucks\" regardless of what is cooking on any of the 4 burners.\n\nBuy it.  It's worth it.  Let's just see how long it lasts......I'm cautiously optimistic.\n\nUPDATE 4/25/2013:  After only our second time cleaning the stainless steel baffle filters, the screw/nut that holds the baffle together stripped, thus rendering it useless.  Obviously, we were pretty disappointed.  I sent an email to customer service asking what the next step of action should be.  They responded that same day with a tracking number and I had a new baffle in 2 days with no cost.  I've never experienced customer service like that.  Really, just outstanding.  I'm still worried that issues like this may arise again, but for the price-point, I have to expect that (one of the same screws on another baffle sits crooked in the baffle, causing it to align poorly).  My wife and I still love this hood...and after this customer service interaction, we're only more pleased with the purchase!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4472, "id": 261179, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 632, "len_tokens": 761, "text": "Very nice unit.. reasonably quite... Been using for a month.\nFirst, it came beautifully packed; no damage in transit. packaging is so good, I can't imagine how it could get dings at all a some have complained earlier. Maybe they fixed the issue. But Five start on packaging.\nPower button is only to turn the fan off. press twice it turns fan off immediately; press once it turns it off after a full minute timer delay - a great feature.\nLED lights do protrude out about 4 mm under the hood and do shine in your eyes. Take them out and apply a little metal duct tape to mask the edges or just go to any HW store and buy a replacement these are common two prong hood lights also found in some track lights. Can get LED for $3.\nThe stack/chimney on top is just a cover for the 6\" duct, It has two pieces each 17.75\" which telescope inside each other and can be separated if smaller length is required. Min length17.75\" ..max length 34\". If lesser needed you will have to cut .. try heavy gauge metal shears or got to any local Fabrication shop and have it cut. For Greater than 34 you will have just match and buy extra lengths from somewhere on web.\nDo not use the flex 6\" Duct that comes with it - it is probably the reason for noise many people complained about. Use 6\" solid metal ducting and tape it well with foil duct tape (lasting) and top it with guerilla tape for strength. In All ducting joints male end MUST face/point towards the exit/exhaust point to exterior. Never use smaller than 6\" duct  in any place even the exterior Duct wall cap must have same cross section area as 2x Pie x 6\" = 38 sq inches. Many hardware stores sell caps which have smaller opening at the end and this may cause back pressure and noise. We bought Braun 843BL.\nThe design for stack attachment on top of hood is absurd. It needs to screw stack from wall side but after you have attached the solid duct to the top of the Hood and hung the hood on the wall hanger you cannot reach it - it is against the wall. Now with the provided flexible duct you may be able to do it; but do resist that temptation if you want quite running fan I just drilled a couple of holes from the sides and none the wiser.\nAnother problem is that the attachment ring to receive the 6\" Duct does not take the female/receiving side of the solid 6\" duct - too tight. Again do not give in to temptation to use the provided flex tubing - buy a 6\" duct connecter - it is 4\" long piece of 6\" duct which has male / insertion ends on both sides.\nThe dimensions of the hood funnel are provided in the picture with a rough diagram.\n29 1/4\" wide, center it on wall - level it - mark where you want the lower the lower edge of the hood to be (28 to 32 inches above stove top). Now measure up 9.5 inches above the marked hood bottom. This will be the top edge of the hanger piece with has four screw holes ...if none of these fall on  a stud , fix a 4x1 piece of wood across connecting the two adjacent studs and nicely fasten the hanger plate to it. Hanger plate has reverse hooks on which the hood is just hung that's it. Then, you attach the 6\" duct at the top of the hood and next you attach the chimney cover to the top of the hood and to another hanger installed at the top.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4473, "id": 264925, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 613, "len_tokens": 756, "text": "Everyone,\n\nMy wife bought me this kegerator for a birthday present and I was super excited.  I ordered a keg of Stone IPA, and after some searching, I found a local place that exchanges 5 lbs beverage-quality CO2 canisters.  I went ahead and swapped the empty that came with this setup for one of their exchange canisters because in the end, I think it will make my life easier not having to worry about refilling it.\n\nI put it all together, let everything chill down inside the fridge to the coldest setting of 7 (this is important because the CO2 loses pressure when it gets cold).  When I went to pour the beer, it was super foamy.  I thought it was just the new keg so I let it sit for another day, and I tried it again only to end up with the same result.  I wasn't sure what to do, so I did some research and found that for my elevation, my regulator was out-of-the-box set to 25 PSI - way too high.  I found a PSI kegerator chart, and realized that I needed to be at a much, much lower PSI of around 5.  I got a wrench and twisted the +/- nob on the regulator until I got it down to 5 PSI and that solved the foam problem - I did not need a new hose like some of the reviews stated.\n\nMy next issue.  Once I adjusted the pressure the pour was fine, but I noticed the beer had a really strong plastic/rubber/metallic/chemical smell/taste.  I did more research and convinced myself I had oxidized my beer by having it exposed to too much CO2 PSI -  this later turned out to be false and I learned that beer can easily withstand up to 30 PSI without being ruined.  I was ready to call it a wasted-keg-day, but out of denial I continued to do research on the problem.\n\nFinally, I found an article on a beer brewing forum that talked about how the synthetic washer between the keg and the tap hose could be to blame.  I disconnected the keg from the hose that connects it to the pourer, and I could smell the problem at once.  There is this white ring/washer/gasket thing that comes with this kegerator that is known to give the beer this horrible taste/smell as it passes over it and/or sits in the tube, and it reeked of that chemical smell.  I truly did not know one little washer could stink and foul up beer so badly, but it sure can.  My fingers still smelled like that chemical a day after I washed them, and I have a terrible sense of smell.  I yanked that thing out, replaced it with a rubber o-ring, and the problem was 90% solved.  I ordered a keg cleaning kit to flush the remainder of the smell out of the tap tube, and a set of black synthetic washers that has been reported not to have that problem.\n\nThe only reason I gave it a 4/5 is because of the research I had to do, and the emotional toll it took on me thinking I ruined 5 gallons of expensive beer.  I can tell you right now with 100% honesty that I am enjoying a beer, straight from my keg, and it is delicious.  This thing is going to turn me into a beer snob for sure.\n\nI emailed the people at Smart+ and hopefully soon they will stop shipping those bad-news white washers.\n\nMake sure you adjust your regulator, make sure you don't use one of those white washers, and you will love this thing.\n\n-R", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4474, "id": 265407, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 655, "len_tokens": 772, "text": "UPDATED REVIEW\n\nI wanted to update my review after using this range for a while, sorry it took over a year.  See below for original comments.\n\nWe are still happy with this purchase, and the range still looks great in our kitchen, for the most part.  I will say I am a bit disappointed with how well the stainless steel trim at the top leading edge of the range has aged.  It seems this piece of trim is subject to damage from swiping the glass top clean and it is showing signs of wear.  Just minor scratches really, but noticeable.  I doubt anyone would look twice other than me.\n\nAlso, I will echo other comments in that the timer alarm is indeed very quiet and  difficult to hear if you aren't actually in the kitchen.  I also agree that the front mounted control knobs are quire sensitive to being accidentally bumped or brushed when walking by, thus turning a stove eye on unintentionally but neither of these things are major annoyances for us.  Your mileage may vary.\n\nAs for cooking, we both think the range works just fine and appreciate the dual oven when needed (which is about twice a year for us).  The cook top heats quickly, but the \"eyes\" aren't terrible even with heat distribution.  I notice this most when cooking an omelette and see that the egg cooks faster on one side than the other.  Again, a minor annoyance but noticeable.  The oven seems to cook very nicely but I have not calibrated it, having never seen a reason to question the factor settings.\n\nFinally, the glass top, while beautiful and sleek when cleaned and polished, really takes some getting used to.  It is hard to keep it clean between polishing.  We are both messy cooks (part of the fun) and the clean up takes quite a lot of elbow grease.  Much better than the alternatives however, just be aware that it takes more than  \"a lick and a promise\" to get the glass top nice and shiny.\n\nWe are still happy with our purchase overall.  We have had no problems with electronic issues or other significant things.\n\nSo far the range has been one of our favorite splurges during our kitchen remodel.  The built-in look is exactly what we wanted.  We love how the range looks with it's beefy control knobs and sleek design.  The dual oven capability is what my wife really wanted and so far it works just like we expected.  Really have only been using the range for a few days now but wanted to post a review promptly.  I will try to remember to update my review after a couple of months of using the range.\n\nI will take this opportunity to encourage buyers in the strongest terms possible to thoroughly inspect these types or items immediately upon delivery.  By thoroughly, I mean complete removal of ALL packing materials, security tapes, protective plastic films, clips, fasteners, etc.  I made the mistake of \"only\" removing the primary shipping box and Styrofoam protection to inspect the range.  I did not remove the protective plastic film that is commonly applied to stainless steel finishes and that was a big mistake.  Turns out the door handle had apparently been jammed or crashed into during shipment by common carrier and the resulting crease in the door frame was totally hidden by the protective film.  The damage is fairly minor but it is noticeable of course and we've had to order a replacement door.  This is not the fault of the seller but I still wanted to warn buyers that the delivery inspection really needs to be completely thorough in cases like this.  Once you sign for the item, it's yours and situations like this are always disappointing.  The seller is working with me to resolve the issue and I will post a review of the seller once the outcome is known.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4475, "id": 269538, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 586, "len_tokens": 728, "text": "So, I have the same model of Samsung dryer drum, and of course it has a crack and missing piece out of the drum.  The thing that tipped me off to this break was the loud thump, thump, thump.\n  I bought this dryer during a thanksgiving sale in 2011.  Lowe's was out of stock so they said as soon as they get them in they would deliver it.  So at the end of January 2012, almost over 8 weeks wait, we got the dryer in.  Within the first two weeks of using it, there was a clickity clacking noise from the front of the dryer sounded like a roller.  Waiting so long to just get to use this dryer, I didn't want a technician saying we'd have to get another one, so we just let it be.  To this day it still makes a racket when drying, but it started sounding horrible with the thumping sound.\n  Seeing as the drum broke and thinking Samsung would stand by their products, I called them around May or June the first time.  Before I called them, I thought I had read somewhere in the owner's manual that the drum had a lifetime warranty.  Of course this was not the case as they promptly said the dryer was out of warranty, but they referred me to an authorized repairman.  As I see it, since there's no warranty (Samsung repeatedly made sure I knew this), I don't need an authorized repairman, as I can replace a drum.\n  After finding the replacement drum for this dryer, the cost just for the part is over half of what I paid for the dryer.  I realized at this point the problem is with the design and quality control at Samsung.  This is the first and last stainless steel drum dryer I will ever buy.  The reason is that this is the first drum I've ever seen break.  I've never seen or heard of a steel drum breaking, and I've had 6 dryers in my lifetime, not including this one.  So I called Samsung again today and asked if there was a powder coated direct replacement drum so this won't happen again.  I told them how this is ridiculous that the drum is broken.  The two people I talked to just apologized, but couldn't help with the part.  They once again referred me to a parts store, and I couldn't get anywhere with them either.  So I threw my hands up and said since I have all Samsung appliances and this dryer is the only thing that I'm having problems with, I'll just not buy anything Samsung anymore.  Of course they said,\"ok that's fine with them\".  What has the term customer service come to mean.\n  So just like you reading this, I did find the direct replacement drum and on just the Sears repair site it says there's been over 1400 repairs done just to replace this drum.  Now I'm not sure but if 1400+ steering wheels fell off of one make of car,  I'm sure a recall for that part would happen.\nHey Samsung, make this right and fix this problem, or stop selling.\n\nUpdate:  I have found a direct replacement for this stainless drum.  It's part number:  dc97-07520k\nThis is a white powder coated drum.\nI found mine at Parts Dr. Com, but you can just do a search on Amazon or Google.\nI have been using it in my dryer since early December 2015 with no problems.  I hope this helps.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4476, "id": 284006, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 576, "len_tokens": 748, "text": "piece of crap...\nI bought it on 9/5/15 and in December, not even 3 months later it was having problem. First it started making micro ice, that is what I call it, where it is super tiny and melts very fast. Then in January 2016, it started reading as Ice Full, all the time. I would open and close the lid and it would work for a while.\nThen it completely decided not to work. So on 2/3/16 I called Curtis, because it was still under warranty period, and the extended warranty I had bought told me to do it this way. They told me to reset the ice maker. I did. It was a pain.\nIt  did start to make really tiny ice,even smaller than before, but the ice full light was always on and I had to empty tray each time it made ice for it to make a new batch.\nOn 2/5/16 it totally died... nothing. so i went to drain it, and the stopper on the bottom broke off in the unit causing water to shoot all over the counter tops... yay!... and once emptied it was left to dry.\nOn 2/8/16, today, I called Curtis, to let them know, the reset didn't work. I called at 9:10am, Sam hung up on me. I called at 9:12 am, Paul hung up on me. I called at 9:17 and finally Daisy, did not hang up on me. She was very nice, but I am still not happy with the way they go about their repair process:\nI had to pay $7, right then, for their insurance, for after the repair to ship it back to me.\nI have to pack it in a safe box, and pay to ship it back to them. Included all this info, plus sales receipt. Describe the issues in detail with all the previous calls and issues also in detail.\nAfter all that, they will repair it and ship it back to me.\nI will update after I get the unit back.\n\n*** UPDATE****\n\n2-8-16... so I just found out it will cost me $65 to ship it back... I can't believe a company can get away with this kind of customer service.\nI am so disgusted with Curtis International ltd.  I am shipping it back and will update again when i get it back.\n\n****UPDATE****\n11-2-16\n\nUpdate********************************\n\nSo after I paid the $7 insurance, the $65 to ship it, Curtis Int. did ship me a total brand new one. It was an Igloo same design, same color, same buttons, same Issues, Just with Igloo instead of RCA... It lasted 2 months and totally died.\nI had to wait till Sept 2016 to use my extended Warrenty.\nThey didn't even want this turd back.\nThey told me don't bother shipping it back and they just refunded me my purchase price, not shipping on an Amazon Gift Card.\nSo to sum it up. This Ice Maker is crap. Save your MONEY, and just buy the bags of ICE.\nThis unit costed me $127 the first time, $8.99 Assurion Extended Warrenty, after it died (RCA) $7 insurance to Curtis International, $ 65 to USPS to ship it back to get repaired, they just replaced it... and a grand total of $207.99 and I am right back to buying bags of ICE...\nSave your $$$$$, RCA and the Replacement IGLOO, both are crap and both died.\nHOpe this helps.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4477, "id": 288735, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 590, "len_tokens": 746, "text": "I'm not sure where to start. Possibly the downsides? Why not.\n1. There almost isn't any with the machine\nSorry, I have been trying to find them, and apart from just being nit-picky, and my own self, there really isn't anything bad I can say. That being said, the couple of things, have simple fixes right after that. Now, I will explain the couple nit=picks: The manual is not very clear on the customization of the cycles, but are straight foreword., The lid slams shut if not careful and scares you, simply add some small rubber/foam pads to it., wouldn't mind having a little drawer to help dissolve detergent, but just run it under the water., and, maybe, you can't have the lid open for more than a few seconds when filling.\n\nNow, on to the good. This washer is simply awesome. Enough said. Seriously. why?\n\nWell, to start, it's incredibly cute. It looks like a toy, that would be for kids. In all honesty, if the kid is old enough, it would make a good toy if they like doing laundry! lol. But, don't let those looks fool you, it's actually a fully functioning washing machine, and it works remarkably well. Which is the second thing, it really does wash well for what it is. It has all the cycles one would need: Heavy, Delicate, Normal, Quick, and Soak. On top of that, most of them can be customized for your needs. You can add time to wash, spin, and add another rinse, or several. The only cycles you can't change at all, apart from water level, are Normal and quick. Which, was a surprise as I like to do 2 rinses for normal loads. Before you ask, if your the same way, simply select the Heavy cycle. The Heavy cycle is the same as normal, just with an extra rinse. Otherwise, they all prove well. The only other thing would be I sometimes reduce wash time for delicates, and take away the extra rinse (Delicates normal cycle is 15min wash, and 3 rinses) Another feature that is a nice touch, it has a lint filter in the wash tub, and another for the pump. The one in the washtub actually works, and collects a lot of lint. The one down by the pump, helps keep anything from clogging the system, but I have yet to clean it, as the couple times i went to check it, it was still clean.\n\nAs far as performance goes, it is very good. It's not too rough on clothing, and cleans them very well. The delicate cycle is actually delicate as well, maybe not like a front loader would be, but more than adequate for this machine.  Most definitely use a good HE detergent. I recommend either Persil ProClean, or Tide He Turbo. However, I also like using Foca laundry detergent, found at walmart. On top of that, I also like using downy. I find these work best as they rinse very easily, but, use anything you like, just remember, you don't need much. So, in a way, for me, spending the little extra always last longer than what the bottle says.\n\nOtherwise, I honestly can not think of anything else to really say, it simply just works well and has been awesome. I plan on updating and hopefully making this review better soon, things have been crazy around here. P.S., so far, the machine has not complained much at all, it just powers through and cleans, truly love this little monster.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4478, "id": 288846, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 615, "len_tokens": 768, "text": "I was able to secure this refrigerator via Best Buy (I also bought the Chef Collection dishwasher through them). The price was the best I have seen to-date.  $4,300.  I haven't seen it at this price-level since then...though it is bound to drop in price as time goes on.  Unfortunately you do get what you pay for as Best Buy has proven to be near-impossible to deal with on this and even more so on a separate Samsung dish-washer purchase.\n\nThis refrigerator was wooed-over at the Consumer Electronics Show in January 2014 with one startling \"preview-review\" after another, plus Samsung has trotted out a bunch of celeb-chefs to make food that has little to do with their product to help grab foodies' attention.  After cutting through the marketing mumbo-jumbo we have a refrigerator with an impressive spec sheet.\n\nPlenty of capacity, extremely high functionality of space, amazing looks inside & out, and sparkling water built-in.\n\nThe capacity numbers in cuft are impressive and it follows-through with highly usable space everywhere.  This model is very deep and also offers plenty of height where you need; along with the requisite flexible shelves to add even more head-room for tall things.  But it doesnt stop there.  For example, compared to last year's sparkling water model, this one better utilizes the space on the water-side door.  There's top-to-bottom capacity utilization on that door.  And then there is the bottom right quadrant with its flexible fridge/freezer settings.  As opposed to the main fridge and freezer which can be set at one-degree increments, the flex space has four settings.  We use it as a 30 degree fridge for leftovers, berries, meats and other items whose freeze point is lower than 32 degrees.  I've found the temperature to be very accurate.  We are currently at 39 degrees in the main part of the fridge.  When using the bottom right for fridge space most people will be awash in extra space during all but the busiest family gatherings.\n\nThe exterior is a noticeable step up vs anything Ive seen on the market.  A beautiful, dark stainless steel with horizontal grain and an extra coating to prevent fingerprints.  Minimal controls on the face; most are concealed on top of the bottom right drawer.  And there's a slick LED temp display that lights up only when engaged or when the door opens.  There are no extruding door handles which is also a plus.  Then on the inside the stainless backing that is meant to maintain temp consistency contributes greatly to a super-sharp looking interior.\n\nThe sparkling water function is one that we use daily.  Well, hourly : )  We're zealous sparkling water drinkers and this machine has been a god-send in this regard.  We love a certain mineral water, but we're tired of the bottles everywhere so we cut that back to only the more serious meals of the day and use the Samsung every other time.  It's so nice to be able to poor a smidgen of fizzy for when you need to take a pill, etc.  It's worth noting that it does not produce hyper-bubbles even at its highest setting.  We like it that way, but I don't think those that prefer Perrier or those that are looking to make copies of sweetened sodas, for example, will be pleased with the carb-level.  So take that into consideration.\n\nThe little extras like the marination trays aren't all that useful as they do not come with a cover and are not very heavy gauge.  We'll certainly use them from time-to-time, but it's not a feature that should sway a purchase decision.\n\nOverall were thrilled with the machine and look forward to years of use...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4479, "id": 291200, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 624, "len_tokens": 740, "text": "Oh my gosh!! I love it!! Its absolutely perfect! I have a family of 5 and i can wash almost a regular load of laundry. A bit smaller but that fine. It beats having to take it to laundry mat or use the machines here at the complex. I can do laundry anytime i want! Lol sometimes I'd end up leaving my clothes in the dryer here because it would get to late at night, hubby would ne asleep,  and I'm not going to the laundry room by myself.\n\nIt is sooooo quiet. My the water from the water  filter hitting the water in  my turtle tank is louder than the washer. I recently washed my king size fitted sheet and register sheet + 8 pillow cases in it. The pillows cases might have overloaded it a bit but i wanted to see how it handled it. It did sound a little strained during the spin cycle so i won't be doing that again.\n\nSince I bought this washer our laundry has not piled up even once. Ive had it for almost a month and i usually ALWAYS  have laundry piled up. It costs me 1.25 to wash and a 1.25 to dry here at the complex. I was spending about 50 a month on laundry alone. After looking up the energy cost for California when i received it with its energy card, it's going to cost me about 18.70 a year. I just Googled 'energy costs by state appliances'  and you can enter in your appliance, wattage, average amount of time used, days per year and select your state or go with the national average. I live in california so my kwh is more expensive.  18 per year vs 50 a month is nothing. Even if it cost me 100 a year id still be saving a ton of money.\n\n I dry my clothes in the manatee dryer. I originally sort of regretted getting the manatee and wished I'd maybe invested the money in a ventless dryer. But after getting used to it and figuring out how to really work with it i love the manatee dryer as well. A big plus side of the dryer is it doesn't damage your clothes at all. I hang my clothes in half over wire hangers and set the timer to 2 hours. That seems to be about the average depending on the material. All the clothes dry at different rates so I go through it and remove clothes that are dry. Or I'll load it with clothes at night and set of for its highest time (4 hours) and let clothes dry over night. I like it because the clothes aren't tumbling around each other getting damaged and they smell AMAZING!! the fabric softener i add to the wash doesn't get sucked out in the dryer. My husband asked me if putting the clothes on hangers and then taking them off just to put them back on regular hangers bothered me and i said \"no. It actually makes it more organized. Instead of having a heaping pile of clothes to fold and put away they're in a nice neat pile that i can easily move where ever i want. Makes it seem less overwhelming\"\n\nAnyways, this review isn't about the dryer it's about the washer lol i found i can easily wash 8 regular towels in it. I honestly can't find a single negative thing about it. That's either because it really is that awesome, or its because after doing laundry at a laundromat or complex for the past 8 years im just ecstatic to have my own washer. I'll say this though, i wish i would've thought to Google portable washing machines YEARS ago.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4480, "id": 291251, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 620, "len_tokens": 715, "text": "I live in a 2 bedroom apartment with my wife and 2... wait 3 kids now. Our laundry bills were around $50 to $100 a month depending on the phases of the moon - no I mean how messy our toddler gets and of course the laundry machines were not always working and not always open so I decided to splurge on this Panda laundry machine. What a fantastic purchase! Not only does it save me money, but it's more convenient since I can just put in a load while I'm playing with my kids or just surfing the web or whatever; and I don't have to worry about people taking my damp clothes  out of the machine if I'm a few minutes late.\n As to the size, it's not so small that it would fit under my bathroom counter so it does have to be moved every time I do the wash. It comes with wheels on the back, but they are so small that unless the machine is tilted at about a 45 degree angle and moved on a smooth tile or hardwood floor they are all but useless - the solution, as suggested by another reviewer, purchase a small hand cart with a bungee tie and it's much easier to relocate. When the Panda is emptied of clothes, it's relatively light so you don't even need a huge hand cart.\nWhen I first loaded the Panda onto my little hand truck and tried to move it, I heard liquid sloshing around and thought \"what the heck\" but I assume it's hydraulic fluid to keep the machine well lubricated and balanced. The Panda has surprisingly \"huge\" power and cleans very well and spins very quickly and dries to a mildly damp state and once the clothes are on the drying rack overnight they are completely dry, they are probably dry earlier, but I'm not going to keep track, I don't want to watch grass grow either.\nI've used this Panda washer to do about 4 or 5 loads per week consistently since I've purchased it and though I don't have the longevity of years of use I feel pretty secure in making my opinions known. We've washed things such as: a set of queen sized sheets (fitted and flat together); 2 pairs of jeans with several shirts and socks; a couple of hoodies along with sweat pants and socks; 2 or 3 large bath towels along with 4 or 5 small towels (not wash cloths); and other mixes of the above and never had any issues. My wife did try to wash a small comforter, but the comforter became so heavy when wet that it caused the motor to stop and exude a burning smell - I was worried and annoyed, but after unplugging the Panda, taking that comforter out (which must have weighed 30 pounds easy probably closer to 50 pounds), when I plugged the machine in and did a test run with a single bath towel, it seemed fine and still is working great (that was about 5 weeks ago).\nThe balance of the machine determines how much noise the Panda will make. The \"legs\" on the Panda are adjustable by hand and just to be sure you should make sure the legs are stable and you will have a very quiet usage - I just check every time the washer is moved since the moving can cause the leg to untighten or tighten a little. But it is really a very quiet machine for the amount of power it has.\nNote: always make sure to clean the little lint trap inside the machine so not too much junk goes down the drain.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4481, "id": 296881, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 657, "len_tokens": 753, "text": "I use this and am quite happy with not having to lug everything I have to a laundromat.\n\nI wish it came with casters to move it around easier if I need to. I installed my own into the plastic holes on the bottom and that worked for a while but one of the holes cracked after a while so I had to remove all of them; I imagine this is why it didn't come with casters to begin with. It still works fine but make sure it is not in the way when you start your cycle. You also will want to tape the drain hose to the hook holder or, as I experienced, it can slip out while draining and get water all over your kitchen floor. The pump works well for draining into a higher receptacle but some bit will remain in the hose and sometimes you will need the water in the tank to be at a certain level for it to start draining. I haven't figured out why it only does this sometimes. It does not do a good job with lint. I often find streaks of lint on clothes after I dry them though plenty seems to comes out of the drain. Nothing a lint roller can't fix.\n\nIt takes some getting used to. It is a much more involved process and takes more time; you will have to manually load in and set it to drain water; so you cannot just turn it on and leave. You have to figure out how much detergent to use and how much of a load it can handle at once. Too much detergent means you will be rinsing multiple times to get all the soap out and it really doesn't take much. I use Tide Free & Gentle powder and barely cover the bottom of the scoop (maybe a tablespoon) and that seems to be a good amount. I use cold water, put the detergent in at low water level, then move the timer just enough so it spins the water once; this seems to mix it up fine and works well. I also recommend drying it after each use to prevent mold though there have been no issues with that. Just a preventative measure.\n\nIt takes me about 2-3 loads in this washer to get through a weeks worth of clothes for just me. That includes daily clothes, 2-3 sets of gym clothes, and towels, which you will want to wash separately from other clothes and spin dry one or two at a time. You can wash about twice as much as you can spin dry normally, and will want to be careful how even the load is in the spinner. It'll usually straighten up but, as in a conventional washer, it can get violent with super uneven loads. I recommend spinning them for a minute or so from soaking, taking the now damp items out and replacing them in loosely (shake each item a bit) then spin them for the desired time. It seems to work best for me as some smaller and fast drying fabrics will be dry by the time I get to hanging the second load.\n\nIt is a good idea to put a quarter cup or so of distilled white vinegar in the rinse cycle. It has long been used as a fabric softener in conventional washers, is super cheap, and works well in these machines. In addition, the acetic acid will help neutralize some of the remaining detergents as laundry detergents are typically a light basic solution. And no, there is no vinegar smell afterwards.\n\nI definitely recommend one for someone without washer drier hookups. It is fairly inexpensive, works fine, and beats going to a laundromat. I might pair it with a portable drier later, if anything, for the lint.\n\nWow, this was longer than I expected it to be. Hope it helps. Good luck.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4482, "id": 297219, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 600, "len_tokens": 725, "text": "Update Review:  The product failed after three weeks. I have never experienced such a poor quality appliance. From flooding the kitchen to never finishing a cycle. Needless to say, we replaced the dishwasher with a Bosh and have had zero problems. Samsung has lost my business over this product. I will no longer buy any Samsung products.  My Note is going to be replaced with an iphone and so will every other Samsung product in my house.  Run far from this \"Waterfall\" product or you will be experiencing what it is like to go over Niagara Falls in a barrel. Only it will be in your kitchen.\nPrevious Review:\nMany of us research our products before making an investment.  And this was the certainly the case when our Bosch dishwasher stopped working after 8 years.  Since I am a fan of both technology and Samsung, I began my research, and hence why I am writing a review.  The reviews on the Samsung Waterwall Stainless Steel dishwasher are bleak at best. I checked Best Buy, Amazon, and even Samsung and saw many complaints and low ratings.  Being a brand loyalist, I went ahead with the purchase, but only if the appliance seller met a few stipulations.  The first and most critical was to have a Samsung trained specialist install the dishwasher.  The second was to have a warranty that was \"bumper to bumper\" for at least four years with an option of replacement if it was a lemon.(four repairs within the warranty)  I went to the local appliance store that met the price of the big boxes, had a four year warranty, and Samsung trained installers. We have had no issues with the dishwasher and like it better than the Bosch. I will address some of the concerns that I have read:\n1) Dishes are wet.  Our dishes are dry, but we use the \"auto\" wash, sanitize, and extra dry. When we don't use the extra dry, they are wet.\n2) Difficult to load.  This is not a problem for us since we follow the manual on the best way to load the dishes.\n3) Poor installation.  This machine will not work properly if it is just a bit off level.  Also, the drainage pipe must be secured to avoid any pressure from blowing it out of the pipe and leaking on your floor. This dishwasher uses pressure to move the waterwall vs. a motor in the traditional dishwashers. Get someone trained to install.\n4) Stemware:  I think you can safely get away with about 7 inch stemware.  Anything larger is not going to work in the middle rack. This is not a problem for us since we learned our lesson after our Fisher Paykel etch all of our good glassware after the first wash, we typically hand wash.\nWhat we like:\n1) Super Quiet, efficient, and easy to operate\n2) Like the top silverware holder\n3) Design is sleek and enjoy the ice blue light to let you know the dishwasher is running\n4) Our dishes are spotless but Samsung recommends you only use the brand Finish.\n5) Express wash is really nice and fast. Esp. after a large dinner party\n\nThis of course is our experience and understand the frustration of the other reviewers.  No one wants to make an investment and then have it not work or call a useless call center.  I will update as time goes on, I would say if you are going to order on line or from a big box, buyer beware... This time, buy from your local appliance dealer if possible.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4483, "id": 298597, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 495, "len_tokens": 708, "text": "If you have recently purchased a new frig as we have, you will no doubt appreciate many of the new \"bells and whistles\" engineered into today's sophisticated appliances.  To me however, this snap-in activated charcoal air filter is something that should have been designed into these units decades ago. It essentially eliminates the need for auxiliary boxes of baking soda in order to address and neutralize offensive odors from food.\n\nHere's what you need to know to be a consumer-savvy smart shopper:\n\nPROS:\n\n1. Genuine OEM air filter compatible with many Whirpool, Maytag, Amana and Jenn-Air refrigerators. (Check your owner's manual to insure\n  you are purchasing the correct part number for these filters.\n2. Extremely easy snap-in installation.\n3. Filter media impregnated with activated carbon (charcoal).\n4. Designed to be replaced at 6 month intervals per your appliance manufacturer.\n5. Supplied with a separate triangular plastic replacement indicator  (\"Time Strip\") as a visual reminder when to replace. (See Photos).\n\nCONCERNS:\n\n1. Cost: Pricey when you factor in the long-term costs of replacement. Depending on your particular model, many refrigerators are designed\n  with multiple \"peripherals\", requiring replacement at given time intervals-water filters, multiple air filters, etc.  If you have a unit with many\n  \"bells and whistles\", be prepared to shell out hundreds of dollars over the life of the unit for these \"accessories\".  Think of it like getting\n  a subsidized computer printer for a great price initially, and then getting screwed on the price of the printer cartridges-sound familiar??\n\n2. These filters are not manufactured by Whirpool Corporation but FOR Whirpool, USA by Kemflo International (Taiwan).\n  My educated guess is that they cost about 0.35 cents each to produce-you can do the math to quickly determine how much profit is generated\n  on the sale of these filters, even at the \"discounted\" price of $7 per filter.  Here's an interesting  link to a major supplier of Kemflo filters:\n http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Whirlpool-W10311524-AIR1-Refrigerator-Air-Filter_60345399930/showimage.html\n\n3. Triangular \"Time Strip\" indicator not installation-compatible with many refrigerator models, requiring consumers to \"retro-fit\" installation.\n  I simply inserted the strip into a crevice on the top of my refrigerator ceiling. They are easy to lose without a secure installation.\n\nRECOMMENDATIONS:\n\n1. A necessary and convenient maintenance item for virtually every refrigerator.  Highly recommended.\n  Purchase in volume rather than for one filter.  Shop wisely-there are many vendors online offering these exact filters at less than half the\n  MSRP compared to ordering these filters directly from Whirpool.  You should be able to purchase a set of three of these filters for about\n  $20.\n\n2. Periodically check the filter(s) at 3 month intervals. You may find that you can go 6-9 months or longer depending upon the length of time\n  and frequency that your compressor runs. If your filter begins to develop mold, wash or replace the filter immediately.\n\n3. BEFORE you purchase any appliance, factor-in the annual cost of all of these \"maintenance accessories\". Very few of us do including myself.\n\nTo Your Good Health!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4484, "id": 306903, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 601, "len_tokens": 753, "text": "I really wanted to like this unit however there are some major shortcomings with the new Magic Chef version being sold:\n\nFirst, there is no low heat mode for delicates.  The warm mode listed on the timer dial is using the same amount of power as high heat mode on the timer dial (1400watts), which I verified on my kill-a-watt meter.  This is a deal breaker for me, other brand units similar looking have a separate low/high button which functions as the low/high heat selector button (700w/1400w) mode.  One reviewer for this product that used a kill-a-watt meter was for the older Magic Chef version that used to be sold with a low/high heat button).  The timer dial in this model doesnt accurately reflect the heat output mode the dryer will initiate, so clothes you don't want shrinking will be exposed to the same amount of high heat in the warm dial setting.\n\nSecondly, when using eco mode, it uses a combination of high heat and cool mode for set times as listed in the manual and ignoring the sensing (humidity mode) button setting.  My clothes were so hot in this mode that the dryer ended up shutting down because it overheated and would not start back until it cooled down-this is a serious flaw and my clothes were so hot that I thought my jeans were going to melt .  I Would not trust using that mode at all because of that issue. Additionally, when trying the sensor mode out it in timer mode it is supposed to turn off when it senses the clothes are dry, this didn't  work well and clothes would still be damp, requiring starting the timer mode again.\n\nThirdly, the rear exhaust port has a gap around it which could allow lint to fly back into the dryer housing where the electronics are located.  I would recommend to use aluminum ducting tape to seal off that gap prior to putting your exhaust elbow connect on.  Overtime you may have lint buildup which gets past the filter pads and could exhaust combustible lint dust back into the housing where the electronics are located.\n\nPros:  price with free prime shipping is the cheapest unit around.  Its very quiet.\n\nAlternative:\nI ended up spending around $100 more for the Haier HLP141E from another site with free shipping since fulfilled by amazon was sold out.  The Haier Is slightly taller and wider (around an inch) than the Magic chef/panda/xtremepower units but has a slightly shallower width (about an inch) drum, but is still listed as 2.6cu ft although some brochures I found list it as 2.5cu ft.  It has a digital mode selector that actually has a working auto dry mode, low heat, normal, and heavy duty heat and timer mode.  Kill-a-watt meter fluctuates around 800watts in normal mode which actually works excellent.  The only downside with the Haier is the door opening/ closing mechanism is tight but it can be made to open/close easier by slightly compressing down the door pin with plyers.  Additionally the Haier unit is more solidly made with thicker metal housing which adds to its heavier weight.  It has a zync drum vs stainless in the other clone units which I don't know how that makes a difference with heat distribution/efficiency.\n\nSummary:\nIf you are ok with running in high heat timer mode or cool (air) mode only, this unit would meet your needs.  Otherwise look for the other 2.6cu ft Clone dryers with the low/high button selection such the units listed under the names Panda, Xtremepower, Avanti or the Haier I mentioned.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4485, "id": 310757, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 618, "len_tokens": 753, "text": "We live in a small condo built in the 1960s with old plumbing and very expensive coin laundry. To fight the good fight against the man, we installed this Washer/Dryer unit in our bathroom and could not be happier with the unit!\n\nWhen I was researching this unit, here are the things that I was wondering about that I hope will save you some time:\n\n- The washer/dryer plugs into a standard 3 prong U.S. outlet. The same outlet that charges your iPhone will power your washer/dryer.\n\n- It doesn't need to vent to the outside! Every other week, you drain out water and anything else that your washer/dryer has collected to keep the loads fresh and not stinky. It takes about 3 minutes.\n\n- You can put in a load of laundry, have it wash, then dry on its own without having to push buttons or move anything between cycles. It works with 80% of cycles with few exceptions (bedding mode being one of them).\n\n- Washing is normal speed, drying takes forever. While washing might take an hour, it could take 4-5 hours for the load to dry. It's not uncommon to have a wash/dry load take 5.5 - 6 hours. For me, I don't really care because I put in laundry before I go to work or before I go to sleep and open the unit up to find a done load. You can easily do one load a day and not worry about moving it.\n\n- As noted above, drying takes forever. If you care about speed, look elsewhere. If you care about convenience and don't want to move loads while you're out and/or sleeping, this is perfect.\n\n- It washes clothes really well. It cleans as well as high end front loading LG washers that I had at my previous place.\n\n- Uses high efficiency detergent and is also extremely energy efficient.\n\n- It is not loud at all. It sounds very similar to a dishwasher.\n\n- While I can't make any guarantees for your set up, we have a 1.5\" drain pipe instead of the standard 2\" because of our old building. Our washer/dryer has absolutely no problems draining in the smaller pipe because of how efficiently the unit uses and drains water - not even close to overflowing the drain. Our contractors did some creative piping, but probably didn't have to because the unit doesn't ever do a waterfall-like drain where it empties the whole tub in a spin cycle. The water always comes out at a reasonable pace.\n\n- Get vibration foot pads for the unit. It will keep things running even quieter and make sure that your washer/dryer doesn't dance while you're at work. If you live in a condo or apartment and live above someone, definitely invest in the vibration pads.\n\nIf you live in a small apartment or condo, this is a fantastic unit that holds a lot and does a lot. If you really need your laundry done fast, this isn't the unit for you. If you sleep and/or work and don't foresee doing more than one load of laundry per day, the convenience of being able to do a complete load of laundry without switching anything couldn't be better. We love this unit!\n\nTips:\n- To avoid wrinkles and not fully dried loads, only fill the tub 1/2 to 2/3 full with laundry. You'll be tempted to fill it to the top, but don't do that.\n- Use liquid fabric softener or little scent boosters. Since you don't have the opportunity to put in a dryer sheet, this will keep your clothes smelling fresh through the dry cycle.\n- Clean your unit as directed!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4486, "id": 322313, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 687, "len_tokens": 791, "text": "Finally, a weather gadget, or any gadget really, that understands the beauty of color and allows you to enjoy that color all the time because it doesn't force you to click a button to get a backlight or return to the standard gray background that you can't see after just a few seconds. Impressive, Impressive, Impressive...\n\nWhen I got this display, even though it said it was \"lighted\", I figured it was like all the other products that will give you some color or backlight only after selecting a button and like I said already, cuts off after a few moments. Well Ambient once again proved me wrong!! It's full color backlight all the time and changes based on temperatures or change of temperatures and if that isn't enough it allows you to change the setup to chose the colors you prefer. I personally stayed with the default settings as I think they already define the color to temperature setting that I would have setup myself. That's what I like about Ambient products. They build products from the customer perspective and not just some standard setup to cut cost at the expense of the consumer.\n\nNot only do you get the colors and the data this product offers, but it's really a nice looking piece that shows \"quality\". My wife usually makes me put all my \"toys\"(gadgets and weather monitors) in my office, but she actually let me put this on the kitchen counter! She doesn't even put a \"toaster\" on the counter. She wants them to be clear of clutter, but she actually said \"that's a nice frame for weather information and if you want to put on kitchen counter, I'm ok with it\" That's probably the best testament you can give any product!!\n\nSeriously, I wish every weather station, clock, or anything that outputs data for viewing should be so bold and look and function as this product does. Just look at the numbers on the screen on this review; look how well you can see them. You don't have to get right in front of it and get at the right angle to view the data!!\n\nOne last thing, especially for those of us who care about accuracy. Since I personally use weather data to share with local TV stations accuracy is VERY important and I have validated this product accuracy at any given time is 99.9% accurate. You don't get that with multi-thousand dollar weather systems, you hardly get data that accurate on anything!! And if its off a tenth or two you have the option to calibrate.\n\n5 STARs all the way, plus one!! This is a must have weather instrument for every household and the price is very fairly priced. There are a lot more options with this unit, but to keep you from reading a book, as I tend to write so much I bore you when I find an item I like, I'll leave it to you to check those out when you get it home or you can always send me a question and I'll try to return with an answer. I don't work for the company, nor have I even read the instruction book much; just a weather and gadget geek! It is so intuitive and user friendly, I've pretty much done every thing I commented about on my own without seeking instructions. That too is helpful, because some of these type products are a nightmare to setup; even as simple as setting the time. You won't have problems like that with the unit. I read the other reviews and they report you should read the instructions booklet and I agree because there are a lot more things you can do like adding additional sensors, calibration, etc.\n\nEarlier I mentioned I hardly have read the manual and to that point was to emphasize the ease of use and setting up. I also read where you lose your setup changes if become unplugged from an electrical outlet. With batteries on board, that is hard for me to believe, but I will check and update this post accordingly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4487, "id": 322378, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 540, "len_tokens": 749, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R3E1X9QFTK4YCF\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/B15OUCbUr2S.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91XpXz8dXcS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">8/9/2016- After the range was replaced it worked for approximately 1 month before it started clicking on the right burner and now the left must be lit manually.  This is a danger issue and the company insists on attempting a repair - again.  I am requesting my money returned and they have stopped conversation via email. If you are given the choice stay far away from this product.\n\n6/17/16- This range and Thor kitchen and I have had a very rocky relationship.  I will give status as of today: The new range has been installed and after many calls, emails and screaming fits I believe I have a working piece of equipment.  Thor Kitchen seems to be a young company and as such they are experiencing many growing pains.  One of those is how to handle faulty equipment once in a customers home.  I lived with a faulty piece of equipment for 8 months before they agreed to replace it.  I believe in the future they will be quicker to make the customer happy.\n\nIf you have issues with your burners, please contact the company directly in Chino California, the warranty people are absolutely useless.  I hope that the company has a better run in the future.\n\nUPDATE:\nI purchased this stove in September and had it installed in October of 2015- the broiler did not work at time of delivery- a week later repairman #1 came out- fixed broiler.\n2 weeks later the ignitor would not stop continually clicking repairman #2 came out, problem continued repairman #3.  Problem continued repairman #4, after repairman #4 came out the oven stopped working.  This happened to be over the Thanksgiving holiday so I had no way to prepare my family a holiday meal.  Repairman #5 came out and parts for ignitor were sent.  The issue with the ignitor continued, repairman #6 and a new set of parts.  Along the way the oven stopped working again and after my 5th or 6th call the head office in California said they would send another repairman.  This would be repairman 7 or 8.  I insisted on replacement or refund and only after reporting to the BBB did I finally get a new oven delivered.  At this point I have been without a stove for 5 weeks and I was told that I could hire a service company to install the new oven.  This is an added cost seeing as I had already done that in October when I got the original stove.  I am now sitting with a new stove in my garage while Thor Kitchen finds a man to install the equipment.  The eye \"clicking\" has continued if you use the two double eyes forcing me to cook on the middle eye.\n\nIn closing the company has terrible customer service and does not respect their customers.  Spend the extra money and buy a brand that will stand behind their equipment and not leave you with a non-functional piece of equipment for long periods of time or insist that you rearrange your day for entirely too many repairmen.\n\nI have now gone through 3 holidays and one birthday with no functioning oven.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4488, "id": 324952, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 626, "len_tokens": 737, "text": "Our ice maker has been leaking water for the past 6 months if not more, so I knew it was needing to be changed sooner or later but I was able to deal with the icicles  and frozen small puddles of ice for - well, for until it was leaking so badly that it no longer made ice! I'm a bit lazy, plus I have enough other projects to tackle. I've changed an ice maker in a previous Whirlpool - it was 8 years old, no soft water, and a top freezer-type machine with the container also in the freezer. It's not a difficult thing to do, doesn't even take a lot of time.\n\nBefore I ordered this ice maker, I did remove the old one first (turn off the ice maker switch, first!), to see what other parts I might possibly need, to check the difficulty (very little), and to see what parts I needed to keep from the old one (don't throw anything from the old one away until the installation is complete, you WILL need a few pieces!).\n\nThe reason I gave this ice maker only 4 stars is not for it's ability to make ice, not because it was difficult to install (it wasn't at all), but because it looked like it had been used before. Aside from the hard water deposits in my old one (which is why it failed, same as my previous unit 13-14 years ago), the rest of my old unit was actually cleaner than this \"new\" one. It had fingerprint smudges and other marks on certain parts, the flat-ish white plastic had scratches on it, and the worst was something like a lubricating jelly on the front edge of the ice cube form, underneath the white ejection \"fins\" making it very difficult to wipe off, as it was smeared all along the front edge. I truly pondered sending it back - but, being Friday, then it would lead to another entire week with no ice (in Phoenix, 117 degrees outside today!) I cleaned it up best I could, I'll let it make a bucket-full and then dump it before using it. Within an hour of installation, I heard it fill with water and I've heard the first load dump already. That is a nice thing with these, is that they do make ice quickly.\n\nMy only other issue with this unit is that this was not quite exactly like my old unit. The water fill hose is a few inches long coming from the top and the water intake guide on my old unit was not very high. The new unit has a different type of water intake device - it's about 1 to 1.5\" taller than the old one. The water dispensing tube isn't very flexible and I was concerned about breaking it while sliding the new ice maker in and keeping the tube bent enough for the water intake to clear the tube. I did read that some people actually cut the tube. I was able to get the unit in without cutting the tube or breaking it - but honestly, that was the biggest issue of the night. Had the unit been identical, installation would have been a snap.\n\nOh, as for not throwing away your old unit until the new one is in, it is because you will need the bottom tray that the motor/ice-making unit is screwed onto with the 3 screws holding it, as well as the plastic \"cord protector\" and screw that holds that in.\n\nHad my new unit not looked dirty and used, I would have given this 5 stars. Considering the use our ice machine takes every day, I'm impressed that this one has lasted 10 years", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4489, "id": 325181, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 647, "len_tokens": 775, "text": "Wow. That's my word with this range every time I use it.\nWow\nBut why the wow?\nFirst the looks:\nThe side designs make it truly look like it was built in to the cabinets for a custom feeling. The feet are easy to adjust to really finish the overall appearance.\nThe aesthetics of the cook too is just flawless. It is so easy to look at and bonus! Super easy to clean\n\nFeatures and \"farkle\" (features that make it really sparkle.. It's a real term)\n\nThe push to release warming door is ok and some times needs to be done over and over. Then messy foot prints happen. I've found that a partial release followed by a grasp on the sides works equally as well. Especially if you get something stuck in the door.\nSpeaking of the doors, let's talk about how easy the oven and warming drawer are to remove and clean.\nSeriously, it is the easiest range I've ever dealt with in this sense. Cleaning it is a breeze since they remove and GO BACK ON so easily.\n\nCooking/baking/confecting:\nI am all about \"more power\" when it comes to my cooking tools and this is the most important a home chef can have. The burners all have btu ratings that make sense for their likely applications. The center burner is the brute at 18,000 btus. Heating a big stock pot to boil took less than half of the time my 25 year old range did at 10,000 btus per burner. So while the power is there, other smaller burners are quite capable and sensibly put in the back of the cook top. Perfect for that quick cup of soup.\n\nConvection bake:\nHow I longed for convection bake.\nThe first time I started to preheat though, the fan didn't kick on. Worried I called Bosch and asked when it starts up.\nThe quick and kind customer specialist looked high and low to find that it comes on only after it has pre heated completely. Sure enough, a second or two after the preheat chimed, I heard the fan gently whisper on.\nMultiple cookie sheets are now welcome in my home!!\n\nThe nitty gritty on durability:\nWhen this behemoth arrived the delivery guys had a booboo. I won't go into morbid detail but basically, the frame was bent. Oh did I cry.\nLuckily, the point of purchase discounted it, checked it with a Bosch technician, and offered me to return it with no issues on shipping.\nI took the discount and hoped for the best.\nThe amazing Bosch technician and my husband (formerly an amazing auto body tech) straightened the frame.\nThe Bosch tech rechecked everything (still good, even the lightbulb still worked after their aggressive straightening tactic) and I was in business.\nThe best part, my warranty remains perfectly intact.\nHow's that for customer service!!\n\nInstallation:\n\nEverything we needed came with it with the exception of a 90 degree gas elbow. All of a few bucks at the local lowes. Installation was easy and only needed a few times to adjust the feet for the perfect look. This unit is incredibly heavy though so we opted to take the door off for this part and make the adjustments easier. The door is insanely heavy so as to lock all your heat in. No more heating my home with the oven and I can finally bake in the summer!!\n\nFor me personally:\nI live in a century old house that the old owners, let's say they took some short cuts.\nFinding a new range was becoming my nightmare but as you can see from my old/new picture it was desperately needed.\nThe contractor who did the kitchen cut the counters too short to ease space for my teeny tiny kitchen.\nEvery range simply bulged oddly and looked magnificently out of place. Until the Bosch.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4490, "id": 327990, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 547, "len_tokens": 725, "text": "Purchased this model in Nov. 2011 from another online retailer. Still going strong in my Arizona den which is kept air conditioned at about 80 degrees in summer. The main reason for purchasing this unit was because the width and depth perfectly fit an opening I had in my den. It was intended to be a beer fridge and provide extra freezer space to replace freezer space lost when we went from a top freezer kitchen fridge, to a bottom freezer unit during a kitchen remodel. I wanted a bottom freezer in this unit to make getting beers out of the fridge easier and since the freezer was for occasional use items only. There are two adjustable and one fixed glass shelf in the fridge section, one white plastic coated wire rack shelf (not adjustable, but removable) and a white plastic coated slide out wire basket in the freezer compartment. There are no front handles. There are built in (indented) handles at the top of each door.\n\nInterior dimensions (inches):\nTop shelf area of freezer (usable): 18Wx13Dx7H\nBottom basket area of freezer (interior basket usable): 16.5Wx10Dx12.5H\nTwo Crisper drawers in fridge (each drawer, usable space): 8.5Wx12Dx6.5H\nRest of fridge divided by two removable, adjustable 2\" increments: 18.5Wx14Dx22H\nFridge door shelf (bottom gallon jug usable): 15.5Wx11Dx6.5D\nTwo fixed door shelves above bottom door shelf (usable): Middle - 10Wx4Dx13H, Top - 9.5Wx3.75Dx4H\nDoor soda can holder: fits six 12oz cans\n\nExterior dimensions are as advertised in the Amazon Product Information section. The doors need about an extra 3/4\" - 1\" clearance to open to 90 degrees.\n\nLikes:\n+ Perfect size for my application.\n+ LED light in top section.\n+ Glass shelves.\n+ Frost free.\n+ Style - Stainless look front that is magnetic with black trim and sides.\n+ Relatively quite - Doesn't bother me too much, even in my den where it is often very quiet. Occasionally, the auto defrost cycle makes interesting gurgling noises. The compressor is audible but quiet when it runs and it does not bother me from my usual position about 9ft away.\n\nThings that don't bother me too much but could be improved (one star penalty):\n- Freezer compartment slide out metal basket is freestanding. So when you pull it out it just plops to the floor if you pull it too far.\n- No light in the freezer.\n- Temperature control (one each for freezer and fridge) is located in the top section. The fridge control is located in the back at the second shelf level. It is rotary and continuously adjustable. If you have this shelf full of cans of beer (like me) then it is a pain to get to it. The freezer control is a continuously variable slide switch located above the bottom shelf in the top section. Again, if this shelf is full of stuff, it makes it a pain to adjust it. Luckily, adjusting is generally a one time exercise.\n\nOverall, this refrigerator has been everything I needed. I see some reviews have issues with reliability and serviceability but my unit has had none of the issues described by other reviewers. If I needed to replace this unit, I would by another based on my experience with this one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4491, "id": 329528, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 608, "len_tokens": 716, "text": "This is an awesome ice maker, perfect for any party or function, and the quality of it is something I have honestly come to expect from an Ivation product. I say that as an owner of quite a few Ivation items, too; recently, while prepping for a review, I stopped counting at 20 or so because they were literally in use all over my residence. That is because Ivation makes dependable products and also either takes existing products and makes them better or simply gives you original items. I like that and I also like the fact that their customer service has always been nice and helpful any time I have needed them.\n\nAfter I received the ice maker, I thought that the weight was a bit hefty. After having placed it, however, you could see that this is not that heavy considering the amount of ice it can make and stability for the size of the product, which is equally interesting because the design of it is something that fist nicely into the area where my kitchen cabinets connect. It is well-made and the design reflects that - several people have asked me what it is, which made it an interesting centerpiece while testing, and I am sure the comments will keep coming at functions.\n\nWhen it comes to function and output, this is easy to use and produces a lot. Functioning was easy, and walked through fairly simply.\n\nAfter plugging the ice maker in and filling the resevoir with the maximum amount of water allotted, I turned it on. It has a nice LCD screen on the front with four buttons that are marked well and easy to understand, making the instructions easy and concise.\n\nThe snowflake button starts the icemaker, and there is a SET button that allows you to set the time. Push the SET button a second time for minutes to set the time on the ice maker. Afterward, push the SET button once more to turn on the automatic \"on\" switch, as well as to set the time for when you would like to begin making ice. For example, I set the time for  6:00 a.m. and turned the automatic \"on\" to start making ice at 6:15.a,m. When you push the set button a third time, it turns on the automatic \"off\" switch and allows you to set the time for the device to automatically switch off and stop making ice. Here, I set the time for 12:00 p.m. because I had a function at 1 and wanted enough ice for my guests.\n\nFrom 6 that morning to 12 that afternoon, the Ivation model made a total of about 5 lbs.of ice, and it was so much cheaper than going to the store and buying bags upon bags.  I was able to make more ice and use it later on as well, and that came in handy.\n\nIt also has an up/down button to switch the hour and minutes and a select button for selecting the size of ice cubes you want to produce. The specs state that this can make 26.5 lbs of ice over 24 hour period, and I believe it. Additionally, it comes with a basket and scooper for the ice. I\n\nPlease note that this was supplied for sampling purposes and that I  am very pleased with the item so far. We  used it for two summer BBQs and for our child's birthday party, and it worked out nicely.  We are taking it to a community block party for Halloween, and we are looking forward to being able to serve refreshments with ice we can continuously produce.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4492, "id": 330183, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 630, "len_tokens": 792, "text": "I normally do the review after using the product for a while. But totally forget this review for a half year. I don't remember all the researches I did before the purchase, so forgive me if something is not 100% accurate.\n\nFirst, the design. Couple of the similar range hoods (include this one) are from same Chinese manufacturer. And to be honest, for range hood, Chinese or Asian modal have better design than US/European model in term of suction power (as opposed to common sense). Most western range hood just don't suck at all, unless you go with professional grade.  if you do fry, grill, stir-fry. Microwave with vent or indoor circulation type of 'fake' range hood doesn't work, 800+ CFM is what you should looking for.\n\nSecond, model number. According to reviews in this product, the manufacturer upgrading their model number without posting it here. If you read through the review you could see the model number evolved from 1801 to 1802 with post-fix number A to Z to whatever they decide to put. The one I get is the newer model at that moment, (maybe 1802N?) I couldn't recall the print outside the box six months ago. The light bright enough for me, compare with some reviews complained about; and I do managed to set the clock successfully.\n\nThere is another similar range hood that have remote or have the control pad in the center is earlier version (with some complaints).\n\nThird, installation. The manual is really poor written, and really take some work to understand it. Its probably translated by software rather than human. It really take my contractor some time to figure out all of the details( I hired someone to do the installation and duct work).\n\nHere is some key points during our installation:\n1. the vent is 8 inch. make sure you have enough room.\n2. need some enforcement on bottom of the cabinate to support the weight of this range hood(40lb?), take them 2 guy to install, so you probably cannot do it yourself.\n3. I cannot remember if we did back board.\n4. You need power. Power cord come from the top.\n5. The vent have to go from the top of the range hood, then you can turn it to horizontal or what ever you like.\n6. Need proper vent cover after it go to the roof (called goose neck?). I was told if my kitchen wall is external wall it will be 10 times easier.\n\nOverall:\n --So far it works great on my kitchen. I did a lot of stir-fry of meat and veges, occasionally steaks.  It sucks more than 95% of the cooking odors. 3 baffled filters could be cleaned in dishwasher, but the long oil collector at the very back is too long to fit in.\n\n --Good for you if you cook a lot of saute or grill, and want to handle the smoke.\n\n --CONSULT/TALK with some AC/Heater company BEFORE your purchase. You are very likely need to hire someone to do the air vent, and that could cost even more. (cost me $900 , but highest bid is $3000+)\n\n --If your stove is Gas stove with high BTU, this model might not be enough according to building code. You could end up with commercial grade product with 1200+ CFM.\n\nUPDATE: Take one star out\n\nAt the moment I bought this model, it list as 900CFM, but now it changed its stats to 500CFM. Not sure if they downgrade their design in last 6 months or correcting their error. I am a bit confused and not really happy with this change.\n\nIf you concern about the performance, Zephyr have a model with 850CFM, at the moment I bought my AKDY their model cost $600ish.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4493, "id": 333479, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 657, "len_tokens": 782, "text": "This is a great fridge for beverage storage.\n\n--- Perishables ---\n\nThe instructions for the fridge state that it's not for storing perishables, so if you're thinking to use this as an extra fridge for leftovers, the instructions say forget it.\n\nThis could be for reduced liability or it really may not be adequate for storing perishable items.\n\nThe fridge has a setting for making it colder, so if you have a thermometer, you can test yours if you want to store perishables to maintain at a safe temperature, but just be aware, that the manufacturer recommends against it stating the fridge is only for beverages.\n\n--- Size ---\n\nThe fridge is taller than other \"mini fridges\" I've seen. It's nearly up to my waist.\n\nIt has multiple racks for storing beverages, and the racks can be removed for storing larger beverage containers (notice I said beverages twice, because I would never store a perishable item in there...)\n\n--- Assembly ---\n\nThe fridge does require that you attach the handle, which is no big deal to do. Just be aware that the pre drilled holes on the inside of the door are behind the rubber door seal.\n\n--- Weird tape ---\n\nAfter we got it out of the box (just cut around the bottom of the box and remove the top of the box rather than pull the fridge out from the top, just fyi), we noticed a piece of tape near the motor unit. It seemed like packing/masking tape and was adhered to a metal wire and then to the wall. It didn't look like it was supposed to be there the way it was applied. Hope it's okay we removed it, but it didn't seem safe, and if it was meant to be there, it seems like it would have been applied better. Just FYI, if your's has it as well, you'll know someone else had it too.\n\n--- Temperature ---\n\nWe don't have a temperature gauge that works inside a fridge anymore, but we do have an infrared temperature gauge that can test surfaces.\n\nWhen we first started up the fridge, the top got pretty warm a little over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Don't get too worried about that, your body's internal temp is about 98 degrees. Still, it felt pretty warm, and I wondered if something was wrong. Our regular fridge does not get warm on the sides or top.\n\nTesting it just now, the top is 86 degrees (so it's cool to the touch). The initial warmth must have been from when it was working hard to get things cool.\n\nTesting internal temperature will vary. At the back, the wall was 13 degrees, and just testing mason jar of chocolates (to keep cool), totally not perishable, right? The glass jar was 69 degrees on the front and 48 degrees on the back (the side closest to the back of the fridge). The temperature setting dial is turned to #3 on our fridge which I believe is the defaul way it came.\n\nThe metal grating inside tested at 46 degrees. The outside temp of the glass was 69 degrees.\n\nSo you can see how temps vary inside based on location and material.\n\nFor comparison...\n\nTesting a glass container of rice in our regular fridge (and located at the front of the fridge) registered 38 degrees.\n\n--- The noise ----\n\nThe fridge isn't very noisy (it is a little at first), but just be aware that it is always making a hum. It may be the fan that is cycling the air inside.\n\nSo if you're planning on having this inside an office, just know that it will always have a buzzing sound coming from it, unless it's unplugged which kind of defeats the purpose.\n\n--- Overall ---\n\nOverall, it's a great beverage fridge. The glass door and the stainless steel frame really give it a classy look compared to other mini fridges.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4494, "id": 340994, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 567, "len_tokens": 737, "text": "I bought this from a local appliance store for about the same price delivered.  I would have no problem buying it through Amazon.  I live in a small town and wanted to support my local business.\n\nI've been wanting to get a Speed Queen for a while now.  The quality of washing machines has PLUNGED due to what I view as misguided government interference, Chinese manufacturing techniques, and consumers willing to buy low quality because it's blinged out and shiny.  The plastics on these new washers is thinner and less durable than the fabric softener bottle that I will throw away when it's empty.  It's a race to the bottom.  No one wins in a race to the bottom.\n\nWe went through a few of the new style HE washers, returning them after leaks, mold, and very long run times that we just couldn't take anymore.  I don't understand how saving $0.003 in water is justified by running the machine 4x longer.  I ran the numbers based on what I pay for water in my area, the payback on a front loader or *new style top loader* is 30 years, on something that today will not last longer than 5 years.  It doesn't make sense.\n\nEnter our hero, Speed Queen (Alliance who make them) has been to court over keeping their design legal.  They are fighting the good fight.  When I set ours off \"Eco\" (which we always do) the water fills all the way to the top on extra large.  I believe with the newer units (we got ours in April of 2016) the low fill concerns are now resolved due to the court decision in favor of Alliance\n\nThe only issue I had was with my wife.  She didn't like the look.  I finally convinced her, we shouldn't care that it's not \"stainless steel\".  We've had it for a month in our laundry room and it fits in just fine!\n\nWe've been running it for a month, family of 4 and 2 dogs.  Very active family.  Our clothes have not been this clean in 15 years.  Everything comes out clean.  The run time on a typical load is 30 minutes!!  The electronic controls are intuitive for both me and my wife.  We didn't read the directions but were able to navigate the settings intuitively.  When I hear a relay cycle I can tell it's a commercial-grade relay.  Spins are always quiet and balanced.  Dry times are down because the spin cycle is fast and gets a lot of water out.\n\nI've observed the wash cycle.  The agitator has a 210^ sweep.  The clothes turn over very quickly even in very large loads, meaning you should see them getting drawn towards the bottom for more agitation.  This is important.  The tub incrementally scrolls too to ensure everything gets consistent agitation.\n\nI think the tub is 3.3 cu ft.  I think it's gigantic.  We do comforters and bedding in it without issue.\n\nI can't think of any cons.  Some don't like that the lid switch shuts everything off when you open it.  I can understand the safety feature.  It's easily bypassed though.\n\nWe are really happy with this washer.  It just works, 100% of the time.  It's fast.  No complaints from anyone who uses it.  One less thing to worry about.  And for me, it's a consumer choice I'm glad I still have the freedom to make.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4495, "id": 341023, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 619, "len_tokens": 780, "text": "I used to use Onset's HOBO data loggers that connected to my 1998, serial connections, desktop. When I replaced the desktop with a laptop with USB connections I balked at the cost of adapting my two HOBO loggers to the new interface. So I decided to shop and came across this inexpensive, (thirty nine and some change, 2015), Inkbird, THC-4 logger. I had never heard of this company but decided to give them a try. I received the unit and installed the software which installed fairly simply.\n  I have to get something off my chest; The English used in the manual is atrocious! Why is it that manufacturers from that particular country are so averse to getting language guidance from someone who speaks English? I mean, for a $50 iTunes gift card, they could get a sixteen-year-old from California to save them from embarrassing misuse of our language.\n  For example: It could also be powered by USB cable when connected with PC and it could upload the data even if the battery is out of use.\nWhat the heck?  Could?  Does it or doesnt it?\n  Whereas, Ben, from Orange County, would have informed them; No Dude, what you would say is:\nData can be uploaded from the logger via the USB cable even if the battery is disconnected or dead. \nThanks for the iTunes man.\n  Anyway, I have used the logger for six months and am pleased with its performance. There was a learning curve as the HOBOs launched while still plugged into the PC, (unless you delayed them).  The Inkbird has a button on the front that you hold down for 4 seconds, then a little arrow shows on the LCD and you know it is recording. Which is nice because you can delay launch until you get to the site where you want to record temps & humidity. Setting the parameters was fairly painless and with practice I have become fairly proficient at it, (and I was born in the 1950s). I like how easy it is to export/ save the graph to Excel. You can also export it to Word, PDF, text, or email the data.\n  I wanted to measure via external probe but it was unclear to me weather the logger came WITH such sensor or if I would have to buy it, (again with the communication thing).\nIs it clear to anyone else from the following?\n\nFeatures:\nTemperature measurement Range: -30C to +60C, for optional external sensor: -40C to +85C\n\n Ben would have worded it:\n, for optional external sensor, (included): -40C to +85C  So, for clarity, the THC-4  DOES COME WITH AN EXTERNAL PROBE,  (included).\n\n  This little guy features upper & lower limit alarms,(auible and / or LED), for both temp and humidity. It won't act as a thermostat to turn anything on or off. I think that may be accomplished with another product form the same company called \"Inkbird Itc-308 Digital Temperature Controller Outlet Thermostat\"\n  I purchased a second THC-4 and am able to save data to my computer and I didn't have to add or register anything on my laptop. The same software I loaded for the first THC-4 works for any subsequent unit you want to add to your fleet. When I save the data to Excel I give it a date and name. I gave to each logger a unique name, I called one Yo and the other El.\n  I might have rated this product 5 stars but they didn't even think to consult Ben.\nAlso, when I first connect the logger, I wish the window would automatically come up, it doesnt. (I know, Im a spoiled American).\n\n  I hope this helps,\nBiff", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4496, "id": 341288, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 568, "len_tokens": 732, "text": "I bought this washer (not at Amazon) to replace a 4-year old GE.  The GE has the computer sitting on the motor.  Is anybody surprised that after only 4 years it would not work in hot weather?  The repairs would have cost half the cost of the machine, and it wouldn't solve the problem in the long run, unless I moved to Alaska, I suppose.  In addition, the so-called rinse was a joke.  It was a low water use machine, of course, but I often ran loads through one cycle with soap and 2-3 more full cycles without soap.  I measure liquid soap with a tablespoon and never, ever over-use it.  Time for a new machine.\n\nEnter the Speed Queen.  No computer on this version.  (Somebody complained about issues that only apply to the computerized version, so check the reviews carefully to make sure you're reading about the machine you are interested in.)  I like that this machine is US built, has fully mechanical controls, and doesn't limit you to 1/2 cup of water to wash in.  However ....\n\nThe \"mini\" water level is about 1/2 tub, so to me it isn't mini.  I think it wastes water if I'm really wanting to wash only one or two items or a few small ones.\n\nThere is no way to know how long a cycle or an agitation phase lasts unless you stand there with a stopwatch.  On the other hand, the cycles are not nearly as long as the GE.  Without the computer, it doesn't have to sit there and do nothing while an unselected activity would otherwise be happening.  The GE cycles took seemingly forever.\n\nOn the hand wash / gentle cycle, there are 2 instances of very gentle agitation of approximately 30 seconds.  I don't think this is enough.  However, the reasoning may be that really delicate items couldn't stand more agitation.  This presumption is ruined by the rinse cycles.  These agitate stronger and for longer than the wash, so how can the limited agitation be to preserve fabric?\n\nI've developed workarounds.  My clothes don't get very dirty (office worker, don't fix cars or garden).  I wash most clothes on \"soak / spin\".  This give a strength and length of agitation I'm happy with.  Then I use another cycle's rinse (and sometimes second rinse) to finish the load.  Even doing this, the total time is less than the previous washer.\n\nI don't use the heavy duty / permanent press cycle often.  It agitates more strongly than I want or need for my barely-dirty clothes.  Even some of my towels recommend a lighter agitation.  The \"normal / ECO\" wash is limited to cold water and one rinse, but it's useful sometimes to finish a \"soak / spin\" load of wash.\n\nA bonus for me is that this washer rinses very well.  It doesn't only rinse and drain, and it doesn't only spin and force water through.  Either one alone isn't usually enough, in my opinion.  Depending on the cycle selected, this washer does both.  What extra water I may be using by the large \"mini\" size is more than made up for by the repeated rinses I'm no longer forced to do.\n\nAs another reviewer said, no washers have consistently great reviews, but I'm still very glad I bought the Speed Queen despite my mild dislikes.  It isn't perfect, but I've never found one that is.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4497, "id": 352488, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 474, "len_tokens": 706, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-RB8J2G0V2AG4K\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1Ts4rdhR%2BS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91m0U072EHS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;Brilliant little device, I put it  to work right out of the box and loaded it with a three day pile of work outfits, and thats about  a Full load capacity, Did a fantastic cleaning job, Better than my Apt Building Laundry machines. For a more easy and less messy operation with effortless draining, I found It's best to place the Washer in the hot tub / Shower. Before placing the unit in the tub I used the Styrofoam Crates that came with the shipping box to raise the unit up about 6 \" off the bath tub floor, and well clear of the small 1\" pool of water it creates when it drains into the tub, It also acts as a good sound / vibration suppressor when in spin cycle, Thats not say it's loud, It's actually very quiet. Over top I use a cross bar to loop my 1/2\" BSP Thread detachable shower head around & connect it to the white inlet hose that came with the Washer, IT'S A PERFECT FIT ! This allows for easy switching between the washer tub & the spin dryer tub water Inlets & it also allow's for easy rinsing of the wash tub after each use. In Terms of the INSTRUCTIONS Booklet, It's a little vague and doesn't explain everything... Instead of struggling to interpret the Destructions, Simply Hyperlink to this guy on YouTube,  https://youtu.be/2X7lps30L9A\nHe explains the product in a much more definitive way,The product he reviews has a different Brand Name, But it's exactly the same machine.\nHere are  My Top 10 Likes about The Mini Washer/Dryer\n 10 No longer have to wash my clothes in the communal laundry machines that are also used to wash pet doggie beds.\n 9  Buh bye Creepy laundry room.\n 8  Buh bye Bad smell of dampness common with the front loading laundry machines at my apt building\n 7  It gets the Laundry cleaner.\n 6  It cleans the Laundry faster.\n 5  It saves water\n 4  Its environmentally friendly by way of it's dedicated Spinner that renders the Laundry almost dry,\n  Thus eliminating the need to use a planet burning Tumble Dryer that just Nukes my clothes anyway..\n 3  It's a fun machine to operate, I enjoy the 20th century alchemy aspect of it, In fact I now enjoy Laundry Day.\n 2  Small size and weight allows it to be easily stowed away out of sight when not in use.\n 1 It saves Me money!\nThe Laundry machines in my Apt building charges about $13 in quarters to wash and dry 3 Loads of laundry, I do this every 10 days, About $33 per month in quarters, The Mini Washer cost $111. From Amazon, Ill leave it to you to complete the Costs Benefit analysis equation.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4498, "id": 360922, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 627, "len_tokens": 785, "text": "This GE range was a replacement for a Jenn-Air CVE1400/4180/4210/4270 series downdraft for which we could no longer easily get parts. If you are considering the same swap, then you'll probably find challenges lining up with the existing duct-work. The required opening is the countertop is almost identical, the GE requiring 5/8\" less distance from front to back and just 1/16\" less side to side. So it slips into the old aperture easily, and with sufficient overlap that there are no gaps. The outlet to the ducting is 7/8\" more to the right and 1-7/16\" further to the back than the Jenn-air, which isn't much but enough to cause problems because the fan box (plenum) on the GE is considerably longer, at a distance of 6-3/8\" lower than the Jenn-Air. Added to that is the need for a 10\" x 3-1/4\" rectangular to 6\" round transition adapter, which is longer than the required Jenn-Air 5\" round to 6\" round transition, all in all coming almost to the bottom of a standard cabinet, which leaves very little room to crank over toward the old duct-work.\n\nFor me, the ducting was by far the most difficult and time consuming part of the install. When I later noted that the Amazon price for installation is $180, I thought that it was a great deal. Then looking at, \"What's included with service\" there is no mention of the duct-work. If you choose this option I advise checking with the installer.\n\nWhen installing the GE range you alternate between thinking, \"this was thoughtful design\" to, \"why didn't they just do this to make it easier\". For example, when fitting the fan box you see an apparently useless hole in the top of the range cavity but you soon realize that it happens to line up with a dimple in the fan box that together mean that the weight of the box is supported while you install the fixing screws; good thinking. On the other hand, the first operation is placement of an adhesive foam gasket seal around the periphery of the underside of the glass top, and while doing this you wonder why the customer has to fit this, and not GE. The electrical box is attached with 2-screws, one at the back that is really hard to get to and one at the front for which your screwdriver will be difficult to access should your cabinet have a central divider. There seems no good reason why this box could not have been retained by screws to the sides. The instructions say that the electrical box takes a \" conduit, but mine had a hole for a 1\" conduit, which could be a nuisance if you're not prepared.\n\nThe GE range itself looks very sleek on the counter and so far has operated just as advertised. There is, however, room for improvement. There is only a single light to indicate that a heated element is on, but to see which requires checking the position of each control, which on our black control knob on black surface range, isn't that easy. There are, however, \"Hot Surface Indicator Lights\", one for each side that remain on after switch-off as long as the glass on that side remains hot. The indicator to show if the front left control is on front-burner only, or front-burner and bridge, is a minute rectangle which is either filled or open, and is very hard to see.\n\nAt the time of writing we are scared to death of spilling anything just in case it spoils the looks forever. I think that this range's surface is going to need a lot more cleaning than that of its predecessor, just like our granite countertops and stainless steel fridge. Progress? Form over function?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4499, "id": 361537, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 595, "len_tokens": 700, "text": "This is a product that I was unaware even existed until my dishwasher caused ~$9000 in damage to my floor. After discovering our high-end dishwasher (to remain unnamed) was slowly leaking from the bottom and ruined our hardwood flooring in the kitchen, I did some research to determine how I could at least mitigate the damage or slow it down.  While my homeowners insurance covered a large portion of the damage costs, the out of pocket expense far surpassed the ~$20 delivered that this cost me.  Additionally, with hardwood flooring repair, we were out of our house for about 5 days in a hotel.  Not fun with pets and kids when it is not a vacation.\n\nSince my dishwasher couldn't be fixed until it was reinstalled, and the contractor would not install it until it was fixed (for liability concerns), I was stuck reinstalling the broken dishwasher.  So I took the time to install this pan prior to placing the dishwasher back in the cabinet.  I ordered this pan and it arrived in a large flat box via Amazon Prime in the advertised two days. It actually came before I had time to buy the rest of the necessary materials (carpet tape and kitchen silicon).  Installation was easy.  There are three lips on the pan and one area that is flat without a lip.  The goal of this pan is not to stop all leaks from getting out but to rather channel them out the front so that you know they are happening.  If it is a small slow leak, this pan should prevent damage.  If it is a big leak, this pan will push it out the front where you will notice it and hopefully take action.  To keep it in place, I put an entire roll of carpet tape under the pan to stick it to the hardwood flooring.  They recommend that you caulk the front of the pan lip to the floor to prevent water from seeping under the pan in the case of a leak. This was easy to do and took a tube of kitchen silicon, a wet finger and about 4 minutes to get a nice finish.  I let that dry and then reinstalled the broken dishwasher so the repairman could come work his magic. However, just to warn me in case there was a slow leak, I actually bought some Zircon Leak Alerts to alert me if it leaked again.\n\nThe repairman came, could not duplicate the leak, but instead replaced the pump as this was the most common problem on this model.  Later that week, while doing a load of dishes, I heard a high pitched S-O-S in Morse code. I was stupefied where it was coming from.  I though maybe it was an autoplay website video as I was on my computer at the time. Nope.  It was actually my Zircon Leak Alert going off because the dishwasher was leaking.  The pan, as designed, captured the water and pushed it out the front. I was able to turn off the dishwasher and sop up the puddle without any new floor damage.  Unfortunately, another call to the repair shop was in order.  However, ~$30 in parts installed prevented me from another costly repair.  This dishwasher pan was definitely worth the money and time to install. I would totally buy this again.  As a matter of fact, the reason I am writing this review is because I was coming back to place another order for our wet bar's dishwasher and saw that I had not reviewed it..", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4500, "id": 363217, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 535, "len_tokens": 742, "text": "UPDATE -- bought 3 years ago still going strong. Get more WOWs on this than anything else in house. Love the instant on/off--a pot boiling over just goes to simmer instantly with temp adjustment. Not sure if the glass on the underside is slightly bumpy for ventilation, or maybe the paint underneath makes it background grey look a little like 3D metal bevel/hash..very nice. See pic. I got this unit at exactly the time expected . I DID HAVE TO SIGN FOR IT !! The box was well strapped, but not taped shutIt was in perfect shape upon delivery.\nPros:\n1 Love the color, not black, not stainless steel, just in between and amost granet-like under glass. Beautiful and Unique.\n2 the glass top is completely free on all logos, and guide marks  these are all protected beneath the glass. They don't rub off--ever\n3 fit with only inches to adjust where my old GE 36 electric white with electric burners, center electric griddle, and drip  catchers used to be\n4 Incredibly more easy to clean !!!!  The glass is smooth on top and nothing protrudes\n5 came with a 2 burner steel griddle pan that heats both ends and less heat in middle .. It is a real advantage and used a lot.\nThe EHHH???:\n1 its Glass ??? just not sure yet about how well thats going to work--SOLVED I LOVE IT 3 YEARS LATER-REALLY VERY HEAVY DUTY\n2 definite learning curve-is like cooking over a gas flame-instant heat on-instant heat off. Taking some time to get used to.--SOLVED\n3 only lost one non-magnetic pan in the transition  the others that a magnet would stick to work fine--ALL BUT 1 PAN WORK FINE\n4 Surprise  the cast iron pans work but, so heavy and worry about scratching or breaking glass  so far though doing fine as long as 2 hands lift/place and not dragged across the glass *I am being overcautious SOLVED, JUST LIFT TO MOVE OR TURN OFF-PUT A REGULAR QUILTED OVEN PAD UNDER IT -- MOVES JUST FINE, 2 HAND PICKUP, JUST DON'T DROP IT ON STOVETOP\nThe Bad\n1 having to take it slow, sometimes cant, just the paranoia is a bummer, but that could be just me.  - SOLVED\n2 when using multiple burners mine has a buzz when more than one is on high.  A balanced burner temp on all of the burners seems to help. It takes a little bit to find the hummless zone if using all burners on hi, another learning curve thing.- SOLVED - BUZZING JUST QUIT W/ TIME\n3 tight fit leaves not a lot of room for the under vent in the back underneath to blow, but no problems yet. -- NEVER OVERHEATED 3 YEARS\n------------------\n --Common Sense would dictate that pan bottoms be flat for even heating and not rough to avoid scratching induction cooktops.\n--CLEANS SPILLS AND BURN MARKS EASILY-A LOT OF USE + STILL HAVEN'T USE UP LITTLE BOTTLE OF CLEANER IT CAME WITH\n--Pan Test--Will my cookware Work with Induction cooktop? EASY TEST --IF A MAGNET STICKS TO BOTTOM IT WILL WORK ON ....INDUCTION COOKTOP\nAFTER 3 YEARS IT JUST TOOK SOME PATIENCE--NO ISSUES NO MAINTENANCE-LOVE MORE NOW THAN EVER", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4501, "id": 363238, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 667, "len_tokens": 797, "text": "For the review I will write the timeline as it is important for people to realize.\n\nSummary: Purchased the Cooktop end of November 2016 has not been functioning from Day 1 (switches off in 2 mins) still not resolved by GE in around 2.5 months (gives you an idea of customer service quality)\n\nTimeline:\nDay 0 - Received the cooktop\n+4 days - Installed by contractor, tested for a couple of mins (big mistake should test at least for 30mins, also returns or defective products only within 48hrs)\n+1 day - On cooking realize that the cooktop switches off in 2 mins of cooking\n+1 day - Called GE Service\n+1 Week - GE Service engineer comes, orders new parts\n+1 Week - Engineer installs the replacement parts, we test for 20mins was looking good\n+1 Day - Saw the cooktop turns itself off around 25 mins, called GE service\n+2 Week - Engineer comes, orders new parts (this delay also includes the holidays around christmas, so not too bad)\n+1 Week - Engineer replaces parts, now the cooktop starts making noises and was not heating properly, engineer finally requests replacement\n+1 day - I have to call GE for replacement instead of them doing it, after a long delay finally get to them, they initiate the process.\n+5 day - Got a call to schedule\n+3 day - Installation of new cooktop, now the cooktop turns itself off in 2mins so the exact same problem as close to two months ago, the installer damages the old cooktop which was better as it runs for 20mins\nSame day - Called GE customer care, but they want the engineer again out, 10 days out (terrible customer experience even after two months no speedy resolution)\n+ 10 days - Engineer comes and says it is the exact same issue, I told I do not want this replaced and I just want GE to take this stove back.\n+ 2 days - Had to escalate and talk to manager who finally said a case will be open to initiate the return process and it will take up to 48hrs.\n+ 5 days - No update so far and still struggling with GE.\n+ 2 days - They said everything in order and need an invoice, which was submitted after talking to customer care from HomeDepot.\n+ 1 day - GE customer care says everything in order, now the pickup company will call for scheduling pickup and to deliver cheque\n+ 15 days - GE customer care says there is a problem with the invoice and they will pay lesser amount, when asked why they wait 2 weeks no answer, fought with the customer care and a supervisor and sent a new document from HomeDepot as they claim that the amount I paid is invalid.\n+ 1 day - Called GE they confirmed everything in order to pay the amount I paid as part of the buy back.\n+ 2 day - They say again that my invoice is not correct and they will pay lesser, lot of arguing and showing what was wrong with their assumptions and that they question the validity of the document I sent. Sent an invoice from PayPal. They say now it is all done, but who knows lets see.\n\nI have a kitchen full of GE appliances but seeing the service they have given I am clear that no further GE products.\nSome painful items:\n- No escalation procedure to try and resolve a long running case on priority\n- GE Engineer comes normally after a week to just plug in to read error codes, they should have given a better means of uploading\n- Any case will typically at least take 2 / 3 weeks for the additional delay of ordering parts\n- Both the support and their engineers seem clueless on what is happening here\n- The customer service is deplorable and very unreliable, no empathy. Been three months without a functioning cooktop.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4502, "id": 365643, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 588, "len_tokens": 718, "text": "We are RV'ing for a few months and purchased this to save on going to the laundromat 30 minutes away from our camp site.\nThe unit is about 30 pounds and packs a powerful aggitation cycle and a mighty powerful spinner.  We have a clothes line up to hang up our washed items after they spin.  No, they're not completely dry but really just damp.  If you have access to water, electricity and a place to hang your damp clothes, this will work for you.\nWhile it comes with 2 water inlets and a hose to fill, I have found it ****much much much**** easier for me, while RV'ing , to use a garden hose and lift the wash lid and fill it that way.  You can also use a pitcher or bucket to fill it.\nThe drain hose is in the grey water inlet at the property we are RV'ing at.\nYou have to have this level as much as possible because it does vibrate at times when it starts to spin.\nHere is how I use it.\nPour half a cap full of soap in, grab garden hose and fill it up to my desired level.  Insert clothes ( thin, lightweight blankets , sheets or towels ) , and set wash cycle to \"normal\" and the timer to 15 minutes.\nAfter the wash, I drain the water and then refill with fresh water and liquid fabric softener and again set wash to normal and 15 minutes.  After that is done, I set it to \"Drain\" and once again, use the garden hose to rinse as it is draining.\nHanging clothes up on the line to finish drying, I personally, need to use liquid fabric softener. Your needs may vary.\nThe spinner is very small so I can get 2 or 3 spin cycles out of 1 wash load.\nI put what will fit in the spinner ,  push gently on the clothes to extract more excess water and then put the \"lid\" on top of the clothes and then let it spin for 5 minutes . That is as long as the spin time goes....up to 5 minutes.  The \"lid\" is a flexible disc that comes with the unit.\nThe directions are not written very well at all.  It takes a few to decipher what it is saying but it's actually easy to figure out.\nYour hardest part to figure out is where it will work best for you.\nOutside, in an unused ( or used ) shower stall , tub or in the kitchen by the sink ( or any other sink ).\nYes, it takes a lot more work than a traditional washer unit but this really is a fantastic little unit.\nIt's absolutely a blessing to people who live in small places, or who cannot afford a traditional washer/dryer unit , or who are camping / RV'ing.\nI actually bought mine on eBay for about 10 dollars less ( than the amazon price ) from the same exact seller ( onebigoutlet) and if you want a cheaper deal , go to eBay and search for the seller. Free shipping too. After I bought it on ebay ,  I found they had listed a couple more Buy it now 's for 100.$.  Buy from eBay to save a few more bucks .. It's the same exact seller and the same exact model.\nThis unit will pay for itself in less than a month from the savings of the laundromats and the driving there and the expensive washers.\nDo I really need to say that I absolutely LOVE this washer. :-)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4503, "id": 372484, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 547, "len_tokens": 725, "text": "Purchased this model in Nov. 2011 from another online retailer. Still going strong in my Arizona den which is kept air conditioned at about 80 degrees in summer. The main reason for purchasing this unit was because the width and depth perfectly fit an opening I had in my den. It was intended to be a beer fridge and provide extra freezer space to replace freezer space lost when we went from a top freezer kitchen fridge, to a bottom freezer unit during a kitchen remodel. I wanted a bottom freezer in this unit to make getting beers out of the fridge easier and since the freezer was for occasional use items only. There are two adjustable and one fixed glass shelf in the fridge section, one white plastic coated wire rack shelf (not adjustable, but removable) and a white plastic coated slide out wire basket in the freezer compartment. There are no front handles. There are built in (indented) handles at the top of each door.\n\nInterior dimensions (inches):\nTop shelf area of freezer (usable): 18Wx13Dx7H\nBottom basket area of freezer (interior basket usable): 16.5Wx10Dx12.5H\nTwo Crisper drawers in fridge (each drawer, usable space): 8.5Wx12Dx6.5H\nRest of fridge divided by two removable, adjustable 2\" increments: 18.5Wx14Dx22H\nFridge door shelf (bottom gallon jug usable): 15.5Wx11Dx6.5D\nTwo fixed door shelves above bottom door shelf (usable): Middle - 10Wx4Dx13H, Top - 9.5Wx3.75Dx4H\nDoor soda can holder: fits six 12oz cans\n\nExterior dimensions are as advertised in the Amazon Product Information section. The doors need about an extra 3/4\" - 1\" clearance to open to 90 degrees.\n\nLikes:\n+ Perfect size for my application.\n+ LED light in top section.\n+ Glass shelves.\n+ Frost free.\n+ Style - Stainless look front that is magnetic with black trim and sides.\n+ Relatively quite - Doesn't bother me too much, even in my den where it is often very quiet. Occasionally, the auto defrost cycle makes interesting gurgling noises. The compressor is audible but quiet when it runs and it does not bother me from my usual position about 9ft away.\n\nThings that don't bother me too much but could be improved (one star penalty):\n- Freezer compartment slide out metal basket is freestanding. So when you pull it out it just plops to the floor if you pull it too far.\n- No light in the freezer.\n- Temperature control (one each for freezer and fridge) is located in the top section. The fridge control is located in the back at the second shelf level. It is rotary and continuously adjustable. If you have this shelf full of cans of beer (like me) then it is a pain to get to it. The freezer control is a continuously variable slide switch located above the bottom shelf in the top section. Again, if this shelf is full of stuff, it makes it a pain to adjust it. Luckily, adjusting is generally a one time exercise.\n\nOverall, this refrigerator has been everything I needed. I see some reviews have issues with reliability and serviceability but my unit has had none of the issues described by other reviewers. If I needed to replace this unit, I would by another based on my experience with this one.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4504, "id": 374492, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 668, "len_tokens": 782, "text": "I did purchase this product locally, but wanted to share my experience. I had a surprisingly good long (for a front loader) life with my LG frontloader. It never had to be serviced. But, always leaked, guessing that was due to the fact the dryer was stacked on it as it ceased when the dryer was removed a few weeks prior to my new Speed Queen. My laundry was never clean. And the funky smell that was a constant battle. Some materials were more prone to the horrible odor and I ended up having no choice but to throw them out. I tried everything. Nothing worked on getting rid of the odor on the laundry...even drying outdoors.\n\nI always kept the front loader's door and detergent door open when not in use. I didn't let laundry sit in the machine for long periods of time. I drained it and cleaned out the filter regularly.  I used HE detergent, stopped using fabric softner, made sure I was not using too much detergent. Ran weekly tub clean cycles-with bleach, with washing machine cleaning products, with various suggestions found on forums. Each load of laundry  would typically run for 3 hours. Washer was not overly filled and not dealing with very dirty items, either. And then would discover some items or entire loads would need to be soaked in the laundry sink and re washed. The cloth napkins that were loaded when folded in quarters, would come out of the 3 hour wash folded in half...didn't even get unfolded with the wash cycle...that doesn't even make sense to me...this is not energy efficient.\n\nI did a lot of research, bough a Speed Queen and am so happy! I am not even a person who likes to do laundry and the first few weeks I was going out of my way to find items to wash. My clothes now look and smell clean! My laundry loads are now taking about 33 min and not hours. You get to adjust the soil level and water level...not the machine. The load timer on machine has been spot on-that was a nice surprise. I now am not needing to do weekly tub cleansing cycles. I have been able to get the funky smell out of my clothes ( using the same detergent I had been using). I can use fabric softner! I can use Oxyclean! I can soak laundry right in the washing machine! No problem washing a king sized quilt or wool blanket. The Speed Queen is an absolute joy to use!\n\nI have read a few comments about lint build up, noise, wet laundry and the alarm at the end of the cycle. I have not noticed any excessive lint on the laundry. But, I had gotten lackadaisical about not separating lint shedding items from lint collecting items from using my front loader. And when I didn't separate items in the Speed Queen, I did notice some lint-but that was my fault. There is a manual and after following their directions, no repeat issue. Noise level, it is louder compared to my other machine, it is not excessively loud in my opinion. I used the delay start to wash before the alarm went off in the morning and no one was disturbed by the maching running.  But it actually cleans my laundry so I am not going to complain about it not being whisper quiet. I was expecting the laundry to come out damper from this top loading machine compared to my old front loader...but nope. The laundry is actually dryer from the Speed Queen. The alarm...it has adjustable  volume levels. It is not going to play a tune, it is short and sweet. I just set a timer on my phone as I have found the time on the display to be accurate.\n\nThis maching is solid. It is all business. It does what I need it to do-cleans laundry, and does a fantastic job. I only regret not purchasing it sooner.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4505, "id": 377957, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 620, "len_tokens": 706, "text": "This so called filter is the same garbage but with a different label. The ClearChoice brand label is the third water tube that I tried that are all the same tube just with a different label. It feels that these tubes are just a shell game. Anyway, the filter just came wrapped in a sealed plastic. Upon inspecting the label where all pertinent information should be, lo and behold, AGAIN, the label did not have any vital information. The filter itself has no information on what and how much minerals or particles or chemical or contaminants it filters out. The only filtering information it provides or more like a warning disclaimer is Do not use this filter with water that is known to be microbiologically unsafe or without a sufficient disinfection process before or after the water filtration process. So what is the purpose of this filter if it does not filter anything.  Is it just so water can pass through the refrigerator to the water dispenser? I think that is the only purpose of this so called filter. It is misleading. They should call it a bypass adapter and not a filter. If you look at LG or any quality brand filters, they explicitly provide information on what their filter removes. Look it up at Amazon and you will see for yourself. Some remove more than others but to not provide any information and giving a warning means it does not remove anything. I do not live in a third world country. I live in the good old U.S. of A., in a big urban city but I still want to filter my water without using a whole house filtration system. And if they also mean by water filtration process in using a Brita system then this is truly a useless so call filter by ClearChoice. Even Brita Filters says it is NSF 42 /53 Certified and provides a list of contaminants and percentages it removes. The package or tube (I will not call this a filter) also does NOT say it is Made from NSF and FDA approved materials on the label but just on the Amazon description page it states it. If it is not on the label then they can not claim it or they can be sue / fined by the States and government for false claims (FTC rule and regulations). It means nothing anyway. They are using play on words to make it sound impressive. IT needs to state \"NSF 42 AND 53 CERTIFIED ALONG WITH THE CONTAMINANTS IT REMOVES AND THE PERCENTAGE\" and if it JUST states NSF 42 and53 CERTIFIED, it also really means nothing. It needs to ALSO list what it removes along with the percentage as some filters removes less contaminants and less percentages even through the filters are NSF 42 / 53 Certified filters. NSF 42 / 53 Certified filters are NOT All equal. READ THE LABEL. Be an informed consumer. Drink truly filtered water unless you do not careful about your health or your loved ones. But I think you do care since you are looking to buy a water filter. This is another rebranded, relabeled garbage that touts the \"Made in USA\" to tug on our blind patriotism. I am not going to try to install this tube as I would rather still use my presently installed one year old LG filter. If I could give this minus stars I would but I cant so I am giving it the lowest rating I can which is one star. If the company would like to reply to my review and provide important filtering information on this tube, I will revisit this review and re-rate it if necessary.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4506, "id": 378234, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 600, "len_tokens": 731, "text": "I purchased two different temperature and humidity sensors a little over a year ago.  Ive already reviewed them both, and I like them both very much.\n\nOne of them died recently, after lasting almost a year and a half.\n\nI have never in my life seen the weird type of battery it used, so since I had no idea what to search for and figured the battery, being so unique, might cost as much as the original thermometer (I believe I paid $5.00 for it) I decided to start shopping around for a new one.\n\nIts pretty critical I have a relatively accurate thermometer because I use it to determine the ambient temperature around all of my AV equipment for my home theater, which is installed in a separate small room off to the side of the theater, down in the basement.\n\nUnfortunately, this room doesnt get any exchange of air and unless the AC is running, it stays really hot.\n\nMy old thermometer, until it died, spent most of its life saying it was 80 degrees.\n\nThe good news is that the second thermometer I purchased, for the actual home theater (which takes regular AAA batteries) always agreed that the equipment room was 80 degrees, so I felt even if they weren't accurate, at least they were relatively accurate.\n\nWhen the battery died, I started looking for a replacement and I came across this one available at a discount in exchange for my honest review.  It looked like it would fit the bill, so I ordered it.\n\nIt takes regular batteries so it should last a lot longer than the previous one.  The real test was to see if it also agreed on the temperature with the other two.\n\nSure enough, its 80 degrees!\n\nI think the size and style of this thermometer is perfect and I may buy another one for the rest of the basement, outside of the home theater and equipment rooms.\n\nIts the exact size of a business card, in case you were wondering.  Its 2 by 3.5 which is the standard size for all business cards, credit cards, etc.  Its only 3/8 thick, too.\n\nThere are three buttons, all on the right hand side.\n\nThe first button (on the top) is to clear out the min/max readings.  If you're putting the thermometer in another room and wish to reset the min/max readings, this would be the button you press.\n\nThe second button scrolls between the min, max, and normal readings.  Each time you press the button it will switch between displaying the min, max, and current temperature and humidity readings.\n\nThe bottom button couldn't be simpler.  Each time you press it, it switches the readout from F to C readings.\n\nThis device takes a LR1130 button battery which you can find at any dollar store available in multi-packs for $1.00.\n\nIt has a built-in kick stand which is pretty cool, but I wish it wasn't so flimsy.  It works, though, which is good enough for me.\n\nIts not weatherproof, so its only for indoor use.  Also, there is no backlight.  It isn't wall mountable.  They could have easily put a keyhole mount in the mold so it could be wall mounted, but they didnt.  Additionally, there is no way to calibrate it, so it is what it is.\n\nThose are the only things keeping me from giving it 5 stars.\n\nI really like this new temperature/humidity sensor and while I cannot say for certain it is accurate, it does match my other two digital thermometers readings very well, so thats good enough for me.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4507, "id": 379488, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 672, "len_tokens": 784, "text": "Got this as an early Xmas present after YEARS of being without one because we live in an apartment. Needless to say that since both of us LOVE to cook- this meant a LOT of dishes kept piling up over and over and over again until finally, my mother-in-law took pity and just got this for us.\n\nYeah, I was skeptical since it was so small but, the truth is that after living with it about a month? Yeah, it's a real dishwasher and, yes, it works.\n\nSet up is easy. It took us a little while to figure how everything went together even WITH the directions but, frankly, I blame the readers (us) and not the instruction manual.\n\nPutting it on and off of the faucet takes seconds- which is REALLY nice- particularly since, yeah, even though it can indeed hold a lot more dishes then it looks like it would at first, that still doesn't make it as large as a normal sized dishwasher.\n\nIt cleans dishes well and, my careful scrutiny turned up quite a few details that will make basic maintenance easier than even a normal sized dishwasher in some cases. Since maintenance is usually the largest factor on the longevity of an appliance- this is good.\n\nIt runs VERY quietly in comparison to all of the other dishwashers I've used. It DOES however, emit a beep when the wash cycle is done that can indeed be heard from the next room in if the apartment's quiet.\n\nRather then consider this a negative though- I'm putting it in the plus column because, frankly, if it didn't- I think that we'd wind up missing that it was finished a LOT more then we already do because it's so darned quiet. Hell, half the time we don't even hear the beep as it stands- so, yeah, even that isn't horribly loud either. I also think it's nice because- yeah, it DOES take up the faucet during the wash cycle so, yes, sometimes we have had to hold off on something until that beep happens.\n\nLength of cycle isn't too bad considering that it IS a new dishwasher. For some reason, the energy and water saving redesigns mean that they all run a LOT longer then the older ones did/do. The light cycle seems to be pretty good so far for us though which runs at around 45 minutes. Which isn't too bad imho.\n\nSo, all in all that's the pros... now to the cons....\n\nThe only complaint that I have- seriously, the one and only complaint is that the tines of the rack inside are so damned close together that they're frequently a bit awkward to maneuver the dishes in. Seriously, I am half tempted to dremel off half of them and redip it in protective coating- they are that close together.\n\nThe only thing holding me back on that score however is the fact that I figure that since everything else seems so well-designed that there MUST be some reason for them being so closely spaced. In other words, all of those years without a dishwasher must be showing because there is no doubt in my mind that I am somehow using it wrong. There's really no reason why I should be having trouble fitting a plate into the darned thing.\n\nAlong those lines is the similar complaint that the utensil basket seems to get in the way more often then not. Half the time I don't even bother to use it because the tall- like REALLY tall handle keeps getting in my way.\n\nI DO however, like the little mini secondary shelf on the one side and I still seriously LOVE this thing. It has been an absolute DREAM having this appliance around and I canNOT believe that I never thought to get one of these things for myself YEARS AGO.\n\nAnyway, that's my initial take after a month of living with it. I can heartily recommend that every apartment in the entire world get one of these.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4508, "id": 380186, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 646, "len_tokens": 767, "text": "As the weather starts to warm, my little annual checklist brings me to the dreaded cleaning of the dryer exhaust. In the past, this has meant trying to fit my aging, adipose body between the dryer and an adjoining cabinet, with cabinets above as well. The configuration previously required an excessively long hose, as the only way to make and keep the connection between the dryer and the exhaust vent was to do it with the dryer pulled out far enough to get between it and the cabinet. When pushing the dryer in, the hose, having a mind of its own, would twist, kink, or simply pop off at one end or the other (the hose clamps are never tight enough). Getting to it from the top is impossible, at least for me, as a wall cabinet above limits the space, and my arms aren't long enough to reach down the full height of the dryer anyway. It would always take several aggravating tries to get everything put back together, up against the wall tight enough to keep the wife happy, but not kinking or crushing the hose. And then the following year, the whole frustrating process had to be repeated. Pain in petudy, and I'd end up procrastinating and even skipping it some years, or mailing it in and just blowing air at the exhaust vent from outside and calling it good.\n\nI don't remember where I spotted this product, but I think it was a Reddit recommendation, and it looked like the answer. I just installed it today, and it was a snap. In my laundry room, there's base moulding, so I mounted a piece of scrap 1/2\" plywood on the wall over the base to have a big, flush mounting surface for wherever the bracket ended up. My old metal hose was clean and still in good shape, so I shortened it--it now only needed to be about 16\" long to get from the MagVent to the exhaust connection that comes through the wall, and it's pretty much straight, just a slight curve, but no bends. Then I put the other part of the MagVent on the dryer, checked my electrical connections for tightness since I had the thing out and unplugged, and pushed it back into place. I heard the snap of the two pieces mating, and a peek over the top of the dryer confirmed that it had worked exactly as advertised--the mating surfaces were aligned and snug.\n\nI'm thrilled. Now, my annual cleanings are just a straight pull of the dryer, a little blow with an air hose, and push the dryer back in. No more banging my head on the cabinets, trying to reach into spaces I can't, see things I can't, trusting that I didn't crush or kink the exhaust, or running to the home center to replace the hose I just wrecked.\n\nA lot of people grouse about the price. Compared the cost of just a chunk of dryer exhaust hose, yes, it is more expensive, but I don't think it's at all unreasonable or excessive. Just looking at how the thing is made, it's not just some cheap stamping, it's well-built and carefully assembled. If a few dollars is worth more than your time and your peace of mind, you do you. For me, this was the answer to what had become one of my most hated tasks. If like me, you put off this task (or even skip it some years/haven't done it in years) because it's such a pain, spend the money one time in your life on this product.\n\nI am not a paid reviewer. I received no compensation for this review. The only request I received from the company for a review was a flyer in the product box. I have not been contacted by any representative of the company prior.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4509, "id": 381483, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 605, "len_tokens": 753, "text": "So far, so good. UPS delivered this without any damage at all, and the freezer seemed packed well enough that it would take some pretty good lumps. The UPS guy in my area is great, and always treats packages with respect, but sometimes the guys at the warehouses/sorting centers can be a bit less gentle. I waited over 24 hours to plug it in, due to the unknown orientation during shipping, and, so far, it seems like it is cooling down properly. We will see in a few hours.\n\nSo-- my takeaways:\n\nThe freezer is surprisingly light--really easy to maneuverer by myself.\nThe dimensions are spot on, which is great, because it fit though my 22-inch travel trailer door, without removing the thing.\nThis thing is super quiet--no fan noise and just a mild hum from the compressor while it pumps refrigerant.\n\nSome grievances I have:\n\nI bought this for an off-grid travel trailer, to use as a fridge. I am running it off a 12 volt solar system, through a Power Bright 1100 watt (2200 surge) inverter.\n\nThe first thing I found upon unpacking this freezer was the EnergyGuide label. Unlike the 172 kWh of energy usage pictured on the product listing, this uses 196 kWh a year, according to their tests. OK, that is just a bit more, but it is still far less than other similar models.\n\nSecond, most of the time you figure 8-10 times the startup draw than the running draw for inverter usage.\n\nOn the back of the machine, the amperage while running is listed as 1.1 amps, at 115 volts. It also lists the startup current--- 18 AMPS! Or 2070 watts. I have been waiting anxious to see how my new inverter will handle this, since I figured the startup watts would be at most 1200 or so.\n\nSurprisingly, the small Power Bright inverter handles it fine. There is an initial surge-- according to the inverter's built-in watt meter-- of just over 900 watts, then it drops down to about 114 watts while the compressor is running. The fan on the inverter does not even come on unless it is hot out!\n\nNow I just have to wait for my extra panels and batteries to run this constantly, and I will be set. I plan to use a 12 volt temperature relay to replace the on/off switch of the inverter, which will turn the inverter and freezer on only when the temperature rises above 38 degrees. This will minimize the noise of the inverter/freezer at night while I am sleeping, while eliminating the extra power draw from the inverter when it is not actively being used.\n\nI will update this review as I go along to note any changes/problems.\n\nUPDATE: I upgraded to a pure sine inverter to run the freezer. My Power Bright 1100 watt modified sine inverter starts and runs the freezer fine, but this freezer seems to be especially sensitive to power quality. I was struggling to get the freezer down below 40 degrees, even after running it all day. I noticed the compressor kicked on and off often, so I deduced that it was probably triggering the overheat protection on the compressor. With modified sine waves, the harsh changes between peaks can cause compressors to overheat easier.\n\nWith the pure sine inverter, the compressor stays running longer, and it takes only a few hours to drop the freezer below freezing. So If you are having problems running this on solar, consider upgrading to a pure sine inverter. I went with a 2000 watt model from Power TechOn, and it seems to work really well.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4510, "id": 382096, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 420, "len_tokens": 701, "text": "I've had this hood fan installed for about a month now.  It looks awesome.  I love the clean look that hinged filter cover provides.\n\nIt sucks air really well, and it's super quiet, even at the highest fan speed.  I'm sure one of the reasons it's so quiet, is that I have a very short duct run (about 2 total feet with one 90, and a duct cap with a baffle).  I also used duct seal&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Gardner-Bender-DS-110N-Duct-Seal-1-Pound-Pug/dp/B00689V41G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Gardner Bender DS-110N Duct Seal, 1-Pound Pug</a>&nbsp;where each piece of ducting joins another.  I believe this helps to dampen vibration and noise, as well as sealing the duct.\n\nI did install 2 additional screws with fender washers through the back plate of the hood. I didn't feel comfortable hanging the whole hood on 2 toggler sheetrock anchors&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Mechanical-Plastics-50400-Toggler-Snaptoggle-2-Pack-1-4-x-20-Inch-Brass-Wall-Anchors/dp/B00GVK5M10/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Mechanical Plastics 50400 Toggler Snaptoggle 2-Pack 1/4 x 20-Inch Brass Wall Anchors</a>(even though I reinforced the sheetrock by installing a wood board behind it, via the wall opening for the ducting).\n\nThe controls are simple.  I found the installation instructions simple, and easy to follow, but I didn't really need them.  You press power then the plus button to turn the fan on.  It seems you have to press the power button twice to turn the fan off.  To program the clock, you need to hold down the power button, until the time flashes.  Then the + and - buttons adjust the time.  This wasn't in my instructions.\n\nTips: I needed to extend my duct by 2\" to reach my vent cap on the outside wall.  I don't have the crimp tool to make one end smaller so it fits into the next piece.  I went to a local Heating and Air Conditioning contractor, and they fabbed it for me in 5 mins for free!  It's so easy and cheap, I don't think it's worth the paperwork for them write a work order.\n\nCons:\n\n1) The exhaust outlet on the hood is about 3/16\" too large to fit into a 6\" duct.  I attached a pic of my 6\" elbow butted to it, so you can see what I mean.  I used 6 wraps of high adhesion foil backed tape to seal and adhere that intersection.  Considering both the duct and hood fan are independently supported, I think this is a lasting solution.\n\n2) The lights aren't very bright.  If I had to guess, I'd say each light puts out maybe 75-150 lumens (150-300 lumens total output).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4511, "id": 388546, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 676, "len_tokens": 783, "text": "I am very happy I purchased this.  I have an ice maker on my fridge but it needs a sensor or something and I don't want to go through having to have someone come out to fix it.  It made more ice than I used anyway.  Thought I would just buy bags of ice until I saw this.  Set it up and it started working.  I bought distilled water to use in it to avoid \"clogging\" problems with my city water.  Usually just make enough ice to fill one or two freezer gallon bags and wait until it says \"add water\" then I shut it down until the next time I want to make some ice.\n\nThe instructions said something about letting it run until something got cold before adding water.  I tried to do that the first time but now I plug it in, turn it on, and add the water.  The first batch or two are sort of flimsy but they melt and go back into the reservoir so no big deal.  I have mine set on M for the cubes and that works for me.  PLEASE keep in mind that the reservoir and the ice holding area are not refrigerated so its not wise to just let the cubes sit there for too long.  The \"cubes\" are really cute and I keep thinking that I should get creative and put something in the center or find a way to set them up for teeny tiny shooters - with chilled liquor of course.  Maybe with a stuffed olive for a martini on the rocks - hmm?\n\nIf it already hasn't been apparent, I live alone so this make enough for me.  I know that when the kids come I will need more ice so I can either make more or just send them out to get a bag or two.  No problem!  The machine needs to be able to have air circulation (I think I read that) so when I'm using it I pull it forward on my counter and when I'm done I push it back.  Doesn't take up much space and I guess I could put it in a cupboard but that would mean I would have to lift it and did I mention that it's a bit heavy.  Well, it is heavy and this 60+ year old woman is not into heavy.  I got it onto the counter and I'm happy with it there.  I just went over and sort of lifted it and reaffirmed to myself that it is heavy.  And I just remembered that was a bit of a problem in trying to get it out of the box.  It came in a sturdy cardboard box and inside that was the product box.  Inside the product box was the machine and two pieces of Styrofoam on either side of the machine.  Printed on the outside box were two arrows pointing up so I gathered it should not go on its side - coolant or something - I don't know and didn't want to screw up.  We have all dealt with trying to get a product box out of the cardboard box that fits it like a second skin.  What are those people thinking?  Usually I put it on its side and try to slide it out or turn it upside down and shake it loose.  Neither option felt right on this one so I left it in both boxes.  Next came getting it out with the close fitting Styrofoam packing.  Keep in mind that there were one or two unfavorable reviews and I knew if I needed to return it that I would also need the packing so I did not do any cutting or tearing on the packing.  I put the entire package on a stool by the counter, got my hands inside the package and was able to lift out the machine and packing and transfer to the counter.  Styrofoam back in the boxes, closed them up and put them in the basement - just in case.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4512, "id": 391643, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 649, "len_tokens": 751, "text": "When I brought this cooler home I was initially unable to attach the handle to the door because of a manufacturing defect. Tramontina was helpful in resolving this issue and shipped me new parts and a new handle. Unfortunately, even with a new handle, this cooler is virtually useless.\n\nUpon loading the cooler with cans I was amazed at how poorly thought out the shelving was, almost certainly designed by someone who has never laid eyes on a beverage can, the electronics bar across the top requires you to tilt the top cans to get them into and out of the top shelf. The next shelf down is a fraction of an inch too high for cans so you need to lower it several inches to accommodate the next row of cans, and one of the shelves that claims to hold 24 cans really only holds 18 unless you precariously tilt the back row of cans at an angle across the gap between the back of the shelf and the back wall of the cooler. The capacity is a borderline lie and the design is aggravatingly stupid. Don't even think of storing bottles in here.\n\nVisible on the door as soon as you take this out of the box is a sticker that notes the temperature will fluctuate based on a number of factors to include the contents of the cooler and how often the door is opened. This is to be expected, what I didn't expect was the degree of fluctuation I would eventually find (TL/DR +/- 15~ degrees). The optimal temperature for most beverages is approximately 37 degrees and water freezes around 32 degrees. Armed with this knowledge I set the temperature of the cooler to 42 degrees. My setting was already five degrees above my optimal temperature (to account for the expected fluctuation) and, in theory, 10 degrees above the freezing point of anything that I would be storing in this cooler. (I expected the the cooler to struggle to stay that cold, but I did not expect the cooler to drop much below that setting.)\n\nThe first day, set to 42 degrees, I loaded the cooler to capacity (120 cans), and I waited. 24 hours later the cooler had made it into the high forties but had not yet achieved my goal of 42 degrees. I feared the worst but decided to give the cooler another night to get settled. In the morning I awoke to find that one of my diet coke cans had exploded, not merely frozen, but literally exploded. To make matters worse, it was not a can on the bottom where Tramontina had warned me it would be cooler, nor was it near the much warmer top shelf, nor the back near the cooling elements. Somehow a can dead in the center of the middle shelf had ruptured and there was black sticky stuff everywhere.\n\nI emptied, cleaned, and restocked my remaining 119 cans. This time I set the temperature to 44 degrees and added a thermometer to the top and bottom shelves. I can now confidently tell you that when set to 44 degrees the top shelf maintains a comfortable 56-58 and the bottom settles around 45-47. The middle, however, somehow managed to freeze another can of coke. This means that when set to 44 degrees the middle of the middle shelf is somehow finding it's way to below freezing for a can of soda.\n\nI've now cleaned, emptied, and restocked this refrigerator from top to bottom twice and come to terms with keeping my drinks at a warm fifty degrees for safety and convenience purposes. I don't see any way that a temperature fluctuation of nearly fifteen degrees below the current setting would be acceptable to anyone. The only reason this cooler remains is due to the inconvenience of returning it (which will likely happen soon anyways).", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4513, "id": 391652, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 566, "len_tokens": 728, "text": "So we bought this from Sam's club, and followed all the directions.  It's not fun to take things back so when it said let it stand for 6 hours before plugging in, I made sure and did it so the compressor's oil can fully settle.  Note:  the newer models all have the temp mod, so they will cool down to 32 degrees instead of just 40.  Not sure why they ever made the first one limited to 40... but perhaps the following will tell the tale.\n\nWe plugged it in, and after a few hours stocked it full.  It literally took 2 days to come to equilibrium at 35 degrees.  I was so glad when I heard it shut off for the first time I actually did a fist pump.  Then...  25 seconds later, it turned on again (without anyone opening the door).  Hmmmmm???  This pattern repeats throughout the entire story so even though I won't mention it again, you can rest assured I'm listening to it run right now... with brief 20-30 second pauses where you can actually hear yourself think.  Ps.  I'm sitting 21 feet away and we have hard wood floors so perhaps others with bigger houses and carpet might not be so disenchanted by this.  On the other hand, my main fridge is on 18 feet away and doesn't bother me at all.\n\nWe stared at it for awhile and thought, \"gee\" it sure is nice looking and all, but my goodness it is without question the loudest \"white\" noise in our kitchen.  And btw, the noise is not all that white in the sense that I always know where the noise is coming from.  Our $2500 LG has a linear compressor and frankly is about half as loud as this thing, and does 3 times the work, given it has more space and a full freezer, ice tray, etc.  Of course this bad boy was only 179 or whatever we paid.. so I guess you get what you pay for.  And trust me, we are paying for the savings... every second.  Even now I'm thinking of various song rhythms that could go with the compressor noise.  Yes, it's that loud.\n\nOk, so 4 days in and KABOOM!  One of the water bottles (glass pierre) in the back breaks.  We turn it from 34 to 36.  (Keep in mind we turn it down past what we want because it takes sooooo darn long for it to get there).  Anyway, that plan was not good because 2 days after that, 3 of my protein shakes at the bottom are frozen solid (and no, none of the above was touching the element in the back, or any side/rear wall for that matter).  So we turned it up to 37... Now I'm thinking \"crap, my beer's not going to be cold enough at 37, but I don't want my protein shakes frozen either.\"  Next day I hear \"caTHUNK\"...  I see a red bull has suddenly bulged out at the bottom and tipped over due to being frozen.  It was on the top shelf, middle of the glass rack.  Hmmmmmm???\n\nSo far it appears that this thing is way to finicky for me.  Your mileage may vary.  Too long, too warm, too cold, too loud for me.  Then again, I'm not sure I want to drop 600 bucks for an equivalent nicer one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4514, "id": 393118, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 502, "len_tokens": 709, "text": "I not happy having to rate this product as 1-star because Amazon's 1-star rating is defined as \"I hate it.\" Hate seems a rather strong and emotional reaction to an apparently defective (?) water filter, even if it fails to work as advertised and even though the filter may have caused damage to our home. And, why does Amazon not allow a \"zero stars\" rating?\n  Our 2005 Kenmore (Coldspot) refrigerator (model 106.7426402) has a top-freezer with an ice-maker that calls for a water filter cartridge (part number 9915, also referred to as Water Filter model WF-LC200V) replacement every six months. On October 10 (2017), put off by the seemingly high cost of \"original equipment manufacturer\" (OEM) replacement water filters and deciding to save some money, I ordered the \"IcePure Refrigerator Water Filter Replacement (2 PACK ) Compatible with WHIRLPOOL 4396701, 4396702, W10281560, W10312235, KENMORE 469915, FILTER 6, L120V, L200, SGF-W10 and more.\"  Two filters arrived October 13, and for half the price of one OEM (Kenmore) filter. Except for the labeling, the IcePure filters looked identical to the original Kenmore (OEM) filter. I turned off the water supply line, and with a quarter-turn, I removed the old filter. A quarter-turn installed the replacement cartridge, and I turned on the water again. Easy as pie... until later.\n  Our refrigerator apparently began leaking water onto the floor soon after I installed the new IcePure replacement refrigerator water filter (RWF2000A replacement for Whirlpool / Kenmore 4396701 - 469915). Fortunately, our kitchen flooring is vinyl plank, and it resists water-damage very well. Unfortunately, the leak remained out-of-sight, staying under the refrigerator while it slowly spread to the wall behind our refrigerator. Once it reached the wall's baseboard, the puddle ran under the baseboard and under the (gypsum board) drywall.\n  Some water was absorbed by the drywall and by two-by-four wood wall-framing. This (damp wood and drywall) may eventually encourage mold, a hazardous condition that could be very expensive (thousands of dollars) to remedy. As our leak occurred well under the refrigerator, it was not detected until after it found a route through our concrete-floor, and dripped down to the carport below, creating an extensive (and more easily seen) puddle there.\n  My recommendations to others changing their water filters: First, do NOT discard your old filter right away (you may need to reinstall it). Second, if possible, make sure your refrigerator is over a non-absorbing surface. If, like most refrigerators, it is installed against a wall, pull your refrigerator out and away from the wall. Make sure it is also away from any cabinets and away from anything that might be damaged by water on the floor. After you replace your filter, and turn its water supply back on, keep a close watch for leaks or dripping. You might slide a sheet of newspaper, paperboard or similar thin absorbent material under your refrigerator, then pull it out periodically to check for signs of a leak. And, finally, I just ordered an OEM (Kenmore) water filter replacement cartridge.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4515, "id": 394655, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 596, "len_tokens": 700, "text": "I purchased this machine at a local retailer, but I did look at Amazon for reviews.  So I want to share my opinion with others doing their research.\n\nI needed to replace my front loading washer. This is the second front loader that I've had to replace in the past 10 years.  The first was a Frigidaire which was purchased because I needed a stackable unit and it was the only one that fit my budget and was not teeny tiny. I never liked the Frigidaire. It was replaced with a Whirlpool Duet. I liked the Whirlpool and felt it did a much better job than the Frigidaire, but when it also kicked the bucket after several years, I decided not to go with a front loader again. They are way to expensive to replace every 5 years.\n\nI was hesitant to go from a high efficiency washer back to an old style washer with an agitator. I like the idea of saving electricity, water, detergent, but the cost of replacing front loader every several years is not environmentally friendly either, and it is certainly not good for my budget! I looked at high efficiency top loaders, but was unimpressed with reviews. The 25 year life expectancy of the Speed Queen convinced me to give it a try.\n\nI was concerned about the size of the Speed Queen, since it is so much smaller than my front loaders. I do laundry for 7, so I have lots to do!  The Speed Queen takes about 30 minutes to wash a regular load and a little longer for heavy duty loads. This is about half the time for my front loader. I can wash and dry two loads of laundry with the Speed Queen and my old Whirlpool dryer in about the same amount of time as one load it my front loader. Two Speed Queen loads are more than one front loader load, so the size hasn't been an issue. The Speed Queen will not wash a king size comforter, but I did wash a Queen comforter. It was a quite full, but it fit.\n\nThe Speed Queen only has three cycles; Heavy Duty, Normal, and Delicate. I wasn't happy to give up all the different options my front loader had, but honestly I probably used one of these three options 95% of the time anyway. I've had this washer for 7 months and I've not wanted a different cycle.\n\nI feel that my clothes get cleaner in the Speed queen than they did in the front loader. I think it is because the Speed Queen fills up with water, so the clothes actually get to soak in the water. I also like that I can fill up the washers with water and pause the wash cycle so that the clothes can soak.\n\nMy only complaint is that the washer lid must be closed for the washer to fill with water. I like to add clothes while the washer is filling, so I googled it and found an easy way to modify the washer so that it will fill/run with the lid up. Just be careful if you also do this.\n\nAfter 7 months of use, I can say that I really like this washer. It gets our clothes clean quickly. It doesn't have all the bells and whistles of the high efficiency machines, but it does what I need it to do: clean my clothes. The real test will be to see how long this machine lasts. I will update if it needs repairs or replaced.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4516, "id": 394876, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 576, "len_tokens": 768, "text": "My traditional agitator washer (GE) died after only 3 years of use in my family of 5.  I attempted to repair it but I discovered 1 poor quality design feature such that I decided to sell it for scrap instead.  I approached my purchase research with a very open mind.. looking at all features, quality ratings and design types available.  I spent a better part of a week researching the HE front load, Top load Agitator, and HE Top load only to discover the huge number bad reviews of which summarize in a list below.\n\nTop load HE:  Twists your clothes in balls, Does not wash towels well,  Clothes come out not even wet. Locks the lid.  Must use HE detergent.  Circuit board failures. High repair rates. 1 year warranty on most brands.\n\nFront load HE:  Door Rubber seal issues.  Must run cleaning tablets monthly or weekly.  Quality issues because of the side load design.  Must leave door open or risk mildew.  Circuit board failures. Must use\nHE detergent.  High repair rates. Long cycle times.  1 year warranty on most brands.\n\nTop load Agitator:  Quality issues with many models.  Auto-temp and water level sensors that don't really work well.  The two common bigbox models from Whirlpool and GE are more cheaply made because these models are considered \"old-style\" and ugly.  1 year warranty on most brands.\n\nI just wanted a simple  high quality, long-lasting  washer that offered the basic features and cleaned my clothes.  I know how much water, what temperature and what type of agitation should be used.  It does not need to be in an areo-dynamic shell, or need to play songs.  It does not need an IPOD interface or a clock.  What I found was a product made by a US company manufactured in the US.  I recognized then name from when I was in college and using coin-op Laundromats:  SpeedQueen.  I am not in any way affiliated with this company.  I just wanted to be happy with my investment.  I was actually excited when I purchased  this  unit ( Speedqueen 432)  after reading the many positive reviews.  When I got mine hooked up, I ran it  for 7 loads  straight to get caught up on the piles of dirty laundry.  It ran quiet, no out-of-balance loads, and the clothes came out clean.\nPROS:\nNo electronics/computer,  no Auto water level or temperature sensors,  No lid lock,  Commercial parts. 30 minute cycle.  Soak feature.  3 year top to bottom warranty.  Stainless steel tub.  No need for HE detergent. Extra rinse cycle.\nCONS:\nYou have to add water softener by hand if you use the extra rinse cycle.  Cannot wash big bulky items like comforters.  Not compact or stackable.\n\nYou can buy it on Amazon. I bought mine from a local Appliance Store. SpeedQueen does not sell to the Big Box Stores. It is a commercial washer with a 3 yr warranty. 5 yr on motor and 10 yr on transmission.\n\nMy best suggestion is to carefully research the unit you buy.  I do see a need for alternate designs  where physical space or water conversation is a real issue.  For me neither was a problem.  Government regulations have messed up what used to be a simple task.....  to buy a washer that gets clothes clean and works without board failures.  I also feel most manufacturers  are focusing more on  flash and features than quality and functionality.  Buying a washer should not  5 year purchase cycle.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4517, "id": 397617, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 529, "len_tokens": 702, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R9D5GB8ZX2XII\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D1EAVFhfqgS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61qdHTZ3hoS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;WOW, I am really loving this Simple Living Portable Clothes Dryer! It was really easy to put together and is surprisingly lightweight!\n\nI put it together by myself in under 30 minutes and with no tools whatsoever! (And I was taking photos for this review almost half of that time!)\n\nI just wanted to give a heads up that the instruction manual says that you need certain small twist connector pieces; but the design was upgraded to include an optional shelf so you just use two more of the plastic bracer pieces to connect the rods at the halfway point. It's much sturdier with the bracers anyway!\n\nI am really amazed with several things about this dryer. First, it really does hold a good deal of clothes! For my photos and video I used already dry clothes just to show the amount it will hold. Really impressive. Second, I didn't realize before purchasing this that the dryer actually vents into the wardrobe with a custom fit... like a glove! This causes the zippered outer wardrobe shell to billow and hold in the heat while it dries your clothes! I really didn't expect it to fit so well. And then the air holes at the top make sure nothing overheats. It's really a great design! The third thing I love is that it is SOOO QUIET! I expected it to be at least half as loud as my air conditioner... NO! It's just a very quiet hum. I actually think this will be very very soothing to have in the bedroom, especially in the winter! Think about it, quiet humming, warm and toasty and the smell of fresh laundry. I'm sleepy already, haha!\n\nI will be updating this review with my results as I use it more with fuller loads. I am really pleased with this dryer so far and am excited to report my findings with continued use!  I am uploading a LOT of photos that I took while putting this together. I am also uploading a video of it before and after being turned on to show how quiet the motor is and to show the billowing action. I plan on updating the video soon. I was working by myself and using my new phone and didn't realize the aspect ratio situation until it was too late. So bear with me and I'll update that as soon as possible.  But I still wanted to post it so people could see how it works.\n\nI purchased this portable clothes dryer at a discounted price in order to test it out and provide my honest and unbiased review. I am not paid by nor am I affiliated with the manufacturer or seller in any way. I am really impressed with this product and will update my results with further use.\n\nI have only used this to dry one hand-washed shirt so far which worked SOO well. My plan is to get a portable washer that spins dry and then use this to finish the drying and never have to go to the laundromat again except for comforters.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4518, "id": 399119, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 618, "len_tokens": 741, "text": "Been using the humiditrak for a few weeks now. I attached the sensor INSIDE the actual guitar to the side using a Command Picture Hanging strip which is similar to velcro. In this way, I know the exact conditions of the guitar in and out of the case. Also bear in mind that the humidity levels are different in various parts of any given guitar case and may not reflect the actual humidity inside the guitar itself, which is where it matters most.\n\nWhat I like:\n-Keeps record even when out of range and updates when you get reconnected. So far this is the only solution that allows you to keep record hour by hour. Other in case hygrometers will only tell you the current conditions when you open and see it. This has allowed me to make several observations such as how effectively my in case humidifier works, how quickly the humidity inside the guitar drops when I take it out for practice, if my guitar changes temperature when I walk outside to my car on a cold winter day, what the conditions were while the guitar was checked in a plane, etc. These things you simply can't do with other hygrometers.\n-Having the hygrometer inside has allowed me to make observations of what humidity and temperature my guitar sounds at its best and worst.\n-I'm able to track the humidity/temperature while out of the house by connecting another device. I have a Nexus 7 Android tablet as well as my Android phone (Oneplus 3T) connected to the humiditrak. Interestingly I didn't have to pair the sensor with the second device, yet they both have the ability to connect directly to the sensor via Bluetooth. When I am out of the house, the Nexus 7 tracks the humidity and uploads the data to the cloud via wifi. As long as my phone has wifi, I also see the updates on my phone wherever I am.\n\nWhat needs improvement:\n-The sensor seems to only gather data in EXACT 30 minute intervals. In between those 30 minutes, I cannot force an update or reading it seems. I understand that the 30 minute interval is probably to save battery, but I wish I could force an update through the app if desired... a lot of conditions can change within a 30 minute period.\n-I wish the app could allow you to calibrate the humidity reading then restore to default if desired. I compared the humiditrak with 2 other digital hygrometers and the humiditrak read 5-7% higher than the other two. I suspect the humiditrak is pretty accurate since I put two humidipaks inside my guitar when I went on vacation for a week and the reading stayed at a solid 50-51% the entire time. Still, I think there should be a calibration feature and should be easy to implement in the app.\n-Since I started using the humiditrak with a second device, one device or the other or both randomly loses Bluetooth connection inexplicably and will not reconnect. Sometimes it connects instantly, sometimes it doesn't even after several hours even though I am only a few feet away. This lack of reliability is concerning.\n-I'd like the ability to export data from the app to a tablet or computer for future reference.\n\nIf my complaints are addressed, I'd easily give this device a 5 out of 5. I believe the whole concept of the humiditrak is by far the best idea in instrument care.\n---\nUpdate March 30, 2017 - I've discovered that if my device isn't connecting to the sensor, I just need to turn the Bluetooth OFF then ON on my device and they suddenly discover each other.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4519, "id": 399761, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 684, "len_tokens": 793, "text": "We got our Della yesterday and I have already done 2 weeks worth of laundry (We were avoiding the laundromat as we knew this was coming). We purchased this washer because we live on a third floor walk up and wanted to save money and energy on the laundromat and also not haul a full size washer and dryer up three floors!\n\nI have to say I have been impressed so far! It holds more laundry than I anticipated (about 1/3 a normal size load) though I have been careful not to overload it and stress the machine. The agitator is powerful and removes way more dirt than our community laundry machines (makes me feel a little gross about what we've been wearing)!\n\nI did about 13-14 loads of laundry yesterday, so I feel like I've got a pretty good feel for what this little machine can do. The set up was super easy once I figured out where to put it. The inlet hose for our bathroom sink perfectly, though I have read other users had issues with the fit. I simply ran the drain hose into our toilet (after a good bleach down, of course).\n\nI chose to use the spin/rinse features together rather than rinsing in the agitator side. This worked perfectly! I set the spin timer for 3 minutes and ran the water into that side for about two them turned it off and let the rest spin out for about a minute. The clothes came out super clean and about 75% dry.\n\nI don't have many complaints about this washer, but here are a few things to mention...\nIf you are doing several loads in a row (like more than about 3) you will need to give the pump time to cool off a little because it struggles a little bit when it gets too warm. I did notice that occasionally on the spin cycle I had to encourage the pump to get started by shaking the drain hose a little to help the water start to flow, but then it would get started and drain no problem.\nOne that note. You do not need to manually turn on the \"drain\" option during the spin cycle it turns on automatically for that side only! You do still need to manually turn the drain option on to remove water from the agitator side.\n\nI found that using 1/4-1/2 a capful of our regular liquid detergent was plenty but not too much and everything rinsed very clean! Because we drained the water into the toilet I could easily see when the water was running clean and the rinse was sufficient.\n\nIt is much more labor intensive than using a traditional washer and dryer, but, in my opinion, well worth the cost and effort involved with schlepping all of our laundry to the laundromat and waiting around for hours to finish everything. I'm so grateful to be able to do laundry in our own home while getting other stuff done! Certainly a relief! I really do feel that our clothes are cleaner than they ever have been (even considering when we previously had a traditional washer and dryer)!\n\nThe spinner works wonderfully and our clothes dried within a couple of hours.\n\nThis machine is very light (about 30 lbs) and has handles. I am 9 months pregnant and was able to easily move it from one room to another even though it has no wheels (maybe a useful feature in the future).\n\nI washed everything from towels to sweatpants and a sheet set without any problems. You have to split the loads into half or a third for the spin side, though. I found our clothes were super clean never running the agitator side longer than 6 minutes and never running the spin side longer than 3 minutes (with rinse water flowing into it for 2 of the 3 minutes).\n\nA great buy and it literally pays for itself in a few months. Well worth the investment to be able to do your laundry without leaving your house.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4520, "id": 402344, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 602, "len_tokens": 743, "text": "Update 9 months and running smooth. Best thing under a hundred bucks on Amazon!\nUpdate: Going into month five and still working like a charm!\nThe key to keeping this little machine up and running is weight. It is the weight, not number, of the items you are putting into the machine. The washer can handle up to 11lbs and the spinner 6.6lbs.... guessing as to how many of this or that will end up in a broken machine. Think of it like an elevator, an elevator doesn't say you can have 6 people, 2 dogs, and 3 bags of groceries. An elevator states the max weight it can handle without breaking because people, dogs, and bags of groceries do not come in one size. I have been able to Google the weight of every piece of clothing I own and make educated decisions about how much to load. Also, keep in mind that the spinner does about half of the max capacity of the washer. If you put a 10lb item in the washer you are not going to be able to use the spinner. Things are going to weigh a lot more when wet, consider that before using the spinner. I wash, drain the tub, spin, fill and rinse, then spin again. This machine is awesome for soaking really tough stains, then just turn on the agitator and finish washing! Could never do that at the laundromat.\nBe sure to balance the load in the spinner, full-size machines are strong enough to correct the balance but this little machine is not. You cannot just cram clothes in the spinner. I circle the items around the tub, keeping the weight as even as possible.\nI am able to use this machine for 80% of my laundry. I still go to the laundry every two weeks to wash blankets, robes, sweats, sweaters...you get the idea.\nI purchased a 15' three prong extension cord, a bath mat, two drying racks,  a couple of the clip and dry racks for socks, and I installed a handheld showerhead.  I set my machine in my bathtub to operate, not elevated, and it works like a charm. Just make sure the hose is lying flat. The machine is super lite, I have no problem moving it around. The bath mat keeps it from scooting around (it is really powerful) and muffles the sound. The handheld showerhead (removed the water restrictor) fills up the wash tub in under 3 minutes, rinses bubbles left in the washer and has cut my shower time in half. I also moved the drain hose from the left side to the right as my tub drains to the right. Just be careful because the hose is shoddy. Lay your machine on the side and move the hose from left to right. YOU CAN JUST SIT THE MACHINE IN THE TUB, NO ELEVATION NEEDED.\nI strongly recommend Persil detergent. Seriously. I was a Tide user for 30 years until I tried Persil. It cleans and rinses MUCH better than Tide. Persil is a European product and suited for these little machines. 2tbs is the amount of detergent and/or fabric softener to use ( I use a coffee measuring spoon as it is 2tbs.). I really recommend measuring the detergent and softener. You will save product and still get clean clothes.\n If you want to completely stop visiting the laundromat buy a bigger machine. I believe that 75% of the bad reviews are due to overloading the machine. I probably wash 10 loads a week, I am expecting it to last a couple of years.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4521, "id": 402531, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 555, "len_tokens": 726, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R880D9TLHUJ5X\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D1NQ8KT9PRS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61LTgLDkaSS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;This has to be one of the best purchases I have ever made. We moved from a big house to a 1000 square foot 2 bedroom apartment that has a shared laundry room with everyone on our floor. When we moved I had to sell my washer and dryer because there was no room for it in storage.\n\nThe building I live in is pet friendly so when I use the washer/dryer I can only assume at some point my neighbors are cleaning their pet bedding in the same machines I wash my clothes... well no more.\n\nThis machine is amazing, but there are some trade offs. Here are my pluses and trade offs.\n\nPLUSES\n+ It works - just look at the video and you will see how dirty the wash water is (can you say mortified)\n+ It is a truly compact unit - no matter how small your apartment is, this will fit in it\n+ It is an economical purchase - I bought this for $106. We have lived in the apartment for a month and have already spent over $100 in the laundry room with washer and dryer each being $1.50 a pop.\n\nTRADE OFFS\n= Finding the best way to fill it up and drain it - see my video to see what I did out-of-the-box.\n= Small loads - I did a week's worth of work clothes. It took 2 loads to wash and 4 loads to spin.\n= Clothes not completely dry - like others have said, the clothes will be about 90% dry - I just hung the clothes up outside on the balcony and in the bathroom. Within a few hours they were dry.\n= Laundry needs more of my attention - after the wash cycle I have to drain it then fill it back up with water to rinse before moving the clothes to the spin - for the convenience and cost savings - WHO CARES!!\n\nSomething I want to add after doing the video and my first full load - although the unit doesn't move during the wash/rinse cycles, it does vibrate during the spin cycle. At the very end of the spin cycle when it turns off, I do have to make sure it doesn't shake itself off of the counter - not a big deal because I only need to set the spin cycle for 2 minutes (even for my jeans).\n\nOne other thing I want to add since doing the video, I found if I move the unit closer to the edge of my sink, I can pull the faucet hose all the way out and it reaches the washer, so now I don't have to use a bucket to fill it up - super excited about that!\n\nLike everyone else said, if the water inlet was more conducive for American style faucets this would be perfect. As I mentioned earlier I had to sell my washer and dryer and even if I got an apartment stackable, those do not work in every apartment. This unit will work anywhere you have a tub/shower or sink with a mid-size countertop. This means you can take it anywhere and use it. I am totally stoked about this purchase.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4522, "id": 403410, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 641, "len_tokens": 779, "text": "You too can fix the broken ice dispenser lever on your Samsung RF4287HARS!  I did and am happy with the new part.  I just wished it wasn't so expensive.\nRun these checks. Does the ice maker still make ice, i.e. you can remove ice from the inside ice bucket and it refills in a few hours? Does the dispenser give you water when you push on the ice paddle?  You have a broken piece of plastic in your dispenser mechanism.  See my first photo showing the bottom, back of a removed ice dispenser.  The plastic arm should be over the black switch on the left.  On the right, you can see the still functioning water dispenser arm.\nOnce you get the new part, here's how you replace it.  It took me almost 2 hours with cleaning and taking these photos! Hopefully yours will go faster with the instructions below. You will need a phillips screw driver and a metal scrapper.\n1. Turn off the water supply to the refrigerator to avoid a mess.\n2. The dispenser mechanism is attached to the bottom of the display.  Remove the entire front display, see photos.  The display is held in place by five plastic tabs, two on the right & left, one in the middle on top.  Look closely and you can see them in the photo. One photo shows the right side of the front where the tabs fit into the refrigerator. Avoid scratching the front of your refrigerator by not pry at the front edge. Instead, use a stiff metal scrapper, and slide it up the back of the dispenser area.  Try one side and get it to release and then the other side and finally the top should come loose. The broken plastic arm might fall out as you are doing this.\n3. Disconnect the wire bundle holding the panel to the refrigerator.  It's visible in the upper corner of my photo.\n4. Remove the other two wire bundles between the panel and the dispenser.\n5. Using the screw driver, remove the screw on the bottom of the panel next to the dispenser paddle.\n6. Now remove the dispenser.  Others reported that theirs just slid out.  Mine took me 45 minutes to get loose. :^(\nIf you look at the last two photos, you can see two plastic tabs on the sides of the dispenser that hold it in the two depressions on the bottom of the metal part.  I had to use two scrappers and tap on the metal with a hammer to get mine to slowly separate.\n7.  I recommend cleaning the metal and then put a thin layer of oil on the metal.  Be sure to attach the metal back to the panel BEFORE inserting the dispenser onto it.\n8. Tuck the wire bundle along the side of the dispenser below the clear plastic tab and then slide the plastic onto the metal part.\n9. Clean out the whole dispenser area on the front of the refrigerator.  You won't have this easy of access again.\n10. Screw the screw back in.\n11. For added safety, you could power down the refrigerator for this step.  I didn't.  Reconnect the brown and black 4-wire bundle to the bottom of the panel.  Reconnect the yellow thru black 5-wire bundle to the top of the panel.  Connect the main wire bundle to the refrigerator.\n12. Snap the panel back into place and turn back on the water.\nNote, if your display is flashing something like \"S\" and \"E\" then the panel needs to be reset.  You can do this by pressing the upper left & right of the display for several seconds where the \"Energy Saver\" and \"Lighting\" button are.\n\nIf these instructions are helpful, please mark this review as helpful and help others find it at the top of the list!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4523, "id": 405162, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 593, "len_tokens": 789, "text": "I would give this 5 stars, but we were spoiled by our prior ice maker which was 28 pound capacity.  We got this smaller version because I was tired lugging my heavy my old ice maker to the sink once every week or two when I wanted to give it a thorough cleaning (more on that topic in a moment)  When you turn it on, the first batch will be small ice cubes, no matter what setting you put.  However, after a couple batches, you will get reasonable sized ice cubes and the ice maker will continue to push out ice cubes until the in is full, or all day long if you keep using ice cubes and refilling the water bin.\n\nQuality of Ice:  Remember, this is ice-machine ice, not freezer ice.  If you have used ice at a hotel or motel, then you will recognize the clear, slightly wet ice cubes.  Freezer ice is white, dry and  several degrees below freezing.  If you want to turn these ice cubes into white, sub-zero (Celsius) freezer ice, but them in a plastic bag and stick them in the freezer.  At the end of the night, we put our extra ice in the freezer and save it for the next day, so we don't have to wait for the first batch of ice to come out.\n\nNoise level.  the fan and condenser are quiet.  The only real noise is the falling ice cubes at the end of each batch.  If you are in a camping trailer, you don't want to run this while taking a nap.  Except for the falling ice cubes, it's about as quiet as a regular desktop computer.\n\nReliability.  I just bought this ice maker, but can tell you the lifespan of a slightly larger version that appears to have the same manufacturer (though different brand name).  Our last ice maker which has many of the same design and parts, lasted 5 summers.  Admittedly, that would be only be 18-24 months of continuous use, but if you use this for summers or camping, I suspect you will also get about 5 years of use.\n\nMaintenance:  Our house has no A/C so when not in use, the ice maker becomes room temperature (80 degrees or more) and the interior becomes warm and humid.  To keep the ice cubes fresh tasting and prevent eventual mold in the water basin, every week or two, I empty any remaining water in the sink and wipe down all interior parts with a paper towel.  When the ice maker starts up each batch, it runs water through the water tubes a minute before it starts to make ice, so this helps flush out the water  tubes.\n\nAlternatives.  If you don't mind losing a little more counter space,  don't mind lugging a heavier model to the sink once a week, and don't mind paying an extra $50, I recommend  the New Air Al-100 Ice maker.&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/NewAir-AI-100R-28-Pound-Portable-Icemaker-Red/dp/B0017Y3GGI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">NewAir AI-100R 28-Pound Portable Icemaker, Red</a>&nbsp;It is sold under a different brand and has minor appearance differences on the to.  However, if you examine the fan grill, the design of the back side, and look through the ventilation slots at the interior parts, you will realize they were both manufactured in the same place. Although though the total ice per day is only a couple pounds more, the New Air model has a bigger variety of exterior colors, it puts out more ice per batch, and it hold more ice in the catch basket before it shuts itself off.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4524, "id": 405252, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 565, "len_tokens": 705, "text": "I like this cooler. It fulfilled my needs and expectations, but it does have limitations. This review will concentrate on those limitations, which may make the review seem to be more negative than my rating. But I really do feel it deserves 4 stars. I am not fond of fishing in an ice chest for a can of beer. I wanted something a little more elegant for patio parties. That is why I bought this cooler, and it meets that need.\nThis cooler holds 5 liter mini-kegs. That is 1.32 gallons or 169 fl.oz. - or about 14 glasses of beer. You should plan on changing the mini-keg during the course of a party. However, quick disconnects are used, so keg change is quick and easy.\nThis cooler is not very efficient - either in power use or cooling capacity. The power draw is stated as 65W, which is about 40% of the power drawn by my full-size refrigerator. However, the cooling capacity is minuscule compared to a refrigerator. The cooler will keep a keg cold, but it takes most of a day to cool down a warm keg. You will want to pre-cool your kegs in a refrigerator - especially kegs that will be changed during a party. The minimum set temperature is 36F, which is where I have mine set. The cooler shuts off at 38F and restarts at 41F.\nThe hoses used are small diameter, so the fluid stream is \"weak\". It takes about 40 seconds to dispense a 12oz glass of beer. Increasing the keg pressure does not materially increase the flow rate, but it does increase the amount of foam on the beer. The CO2 pressure regulator should be set fairly low for a \"normal\" amount of foam. This is plain physics, not the fault of the cooler. When the keg is under pressure, CO2 dissolves into the liquid - which then reappears as foam when the beer is dispensed. Lower pressure, less foam.\nThis cooler apparently uses a Peltier effect solid-state cooling module, so the only moving part of the system is the ventilation fan. The fan is louder than the fans used in tower-format desktop computers, but it is not objectionable. Outside on the patio, you have to listen hard to hear it. It is necessary to add water inside the cooler, so the keg is sitting in water. Presumably, the purpose of this water is to improve the energy transfer from the keg to the Peltier module. However, a quick drain tap is provided, so removing the water is easy.\nThe power cord is short, so you will need to place the cooler near an outlet or use an extension cord.\nMy one real complaint about this cooler is that the power cord is ungrounded - 2 wire. Seems to me this presents a safety hazard for an appliance that likely will be used outdoors. I could be wrong, but I don't think a GFCI outlet or breaker will trip, under ground fault conditions, unless the appliance has the third wire (dedicated ground). The cooler has metal sides. The metal kegs sit in water that also is in contact with the Peltier module. I definitely would feel more comfortable if the cooler was grounded and had a contact to ground the keg as well. I plan to unplug the cooler each time I change the keg.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4525, "id": 405520, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 647, "len_tokens": 781, "text": "When it comes to purchasing something expensive, I am a bit obsessive, spending days and sometimes weeks reading product reviews, comparing specs, taking measurements, and otherwise driving myself (and my wife) crazy with my indecisiveness. This process was no different when I wanted to buy a built-in beverage/wine cooler for my new wet bar. I say \"beverage/wine cooler\" because I didn't know exactly what I wanted, all I knew is that it had to be 24\" wide to fit the space and I absolutely did not want a fan-based unit, it had to be a traditional compressor type. I'm a beer guy, and after spending even more time researching the proper way to store and/or age beer, I realized that a wine cooler would not always drop to low enough temps for beers with lower ABV (like pale ales, pilsners, IPAs, etc). For those kinds of beers you want to be able to reach around 40 degrees, maybe even lower if you like those beers extra cold. So I eliminated a dedicated wine cooler from my search and focused on \"beverage coolers\" which could drop to temps in the 30s. Enter the Kalamera 175 Can Beverage Refrigerator!\n\nWhat mainly drew me to the Kalamera was the fact that it had removable wire shelves. With some beers you do not want them laying on their side like wine bottles. Especially if you're aging beer - you always want that beer standing up, so sediment doesn't form a circle on the bottle, and if it's corked, so the cork doesn't impart its own \"flavors\" into the beer. No traditional wine cooler is going to let you store a bottle upright due to the design of the shelves. But this Kalamera unit accommodates that by removing shelves. While you lose some overall capacity, you gain the ability to store beer the correct way, which may or may not be important to you. (Beer snob note: A lot of aging experts don't think you should age beer long-term in a cooler/fridge, because over time the moisture can infiltrate the beer and have negative impact. While I can't say with any degree of expertise if this is true, I tend to err on the side of safety, and plan to keep the more expensive bottles I want to age in the garage or a closet in the basement, for a more \"natural\" environment without extra moisture. This fridge is more for my everyday beers I plan to drink within a few weeks).\n\nAnother great feature of this Kalamera is the switchable door handle. The way my wet bar is set up is such that if the handle is on the left and the door opens to the right, you wouldn't be able to easily walk around it and get into the fridge. Putting the handle on the right so it opened left made it much easier to access everything. Also, the blue LED is a nice touch that makes people go \"Oh hey, you have a beer fridge.\" (Interesting note: put some cans of Boddington's on the top shelf and check out how that LED lights them up.) I am impressed by the sturdy nature of the fridge, with a super heavy glass door, solid hinges, and a compressor that really is near-silent. I mean I only hear it when I am right next to it and lowering the temperature which forces the compressor on. I can't even tell it's running when it's operating regularly.\n\nWhile $750 is still a chunk of change for what is essentially a glorified beer fridge, it's actually cheaper than almost every other 24\" model out there from other manufacturers, and when you see how well it operates and how solidly it's built, you realize it is actually worth it. I know my beer (and my wife) thank me for finally deciding on this guy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4526, "id": 421986, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 519, "len_tokens": 732, "text": "This says it is NOT for the 'E' (RPWF E) however, with a simple 'Work Around', it can be used in a GE Profile Series refrigerator.  GE uses the 'E' series water filter with a simple RFID tag as a SHAMEFUL marketing/sales 'Gimmick' to justify TRIPPING the price of a good water filter.\nWhat benefit does the RFID tag provide for the additional $20 to $30?\n-Does it help the filter measure percent of filter contamination?  NO, IT DOES NOT!\n-Perhaps it measures the pressure drop as the filter becomes more clogged, alerting the owner to the problem.  NO, IT DOES NOT!\n-Does it show a potential failure of the filter media, alerting the owner?  NO, IT DOES NOT!\n-How about leak detection, preventing water damage to the refrigerator?  IT DOES NOT!\nThen WHY is the RFID tag on the back of each filter....?????\nFOUR reasons:  1-Run a SIMPLE countdown timer (worth about 50 cents),  2-Turns on the \"OVERDUE\" light, REGARDLESS of the level of TRUE contamination of the filter.  3-Uses filter 'Serial number' identification to STOP the CUSTOMER from simply removing the RFID tag from the back of an old filter using the tag for a 'Non-RFID' tagged filter and PREVENTS the CUSTOMER from saving money!  4-MAIN REASON get the customer to PAY M-U-C-H more for each filter than it is worth and buy filters ONLY from GE!!!!  NO competition, a MONOPOLY!\n----Imagine if the car companies did that!  You could ONLY buy tires from your local dealer for your make and model of car!\n\nHere is how I now use THIS water filter (and others) in my GE Profile Series refrigerator.\n1-Locate the 'Blank' filter by-pass plastic piece sent with your GE Profile Series refrigerator (found this from another reviewer noting there was an RFDI tag on the back of the by-pass).\n2-Locate the label \"BACK  This side must face inward\" and peel it off.  (see the picture)\n3-Remove the RFID tag under the label.\n4-Open the water filter housing cover inside the refrigerator.\n5-Place the RFID tag over the 'FCC'  label on the back inside the filter housing near the screw, hold in place by re-using the label you peeled off  the 'Blank' filter by-pass.  (see picture)\nNOW you can install ANY water filter compatible with GE RPWF  (NOT 'E'), saving from $20 to $30+ each!!\n--NOTE: 1-This fix will turn OFF the countdown feature but WILL leave ON the Oz. fill and 'Auto-Fill' features.  2-The front panel will now show \"NOT FILTERING\"  when you fill a container with water or ice (even though you installed a new filter).  This additional insult to the CUSTOMER can be simply overridden by: A) Removing the two screws (inside the upper opening of the dispenser in the door) holding the display on the door.  B) Removing the circuit board connectors  C) Removing the Torx screws holding the circuit board to the display.  D) Placing a small rectangular piece of black tape over the \"NOT\" word on the display.  (See Picture) E) Reassemble.\n\nHappily chose ANY compatible filter saving $20 to $30 each filter change!  (This filter too)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4527, "id": 428639, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 669, "len_tokens": 796, "text": "Waited nearly 2 years to write this review because I see no point in writing one when it's new. Nobody wants to find out it's a piece of crap a year down the line. I've had mine 19 months now and I still love it. I use this as my only fridge since my roommates have left me no space in our kitchen fridge, so I keep all my food in this little Igloo.\n\nIt's heavy. I couldn't lift it and had to have a neighbor do it and even he struggled. It's very good quality so I'm not even going to complain on that.\n\nA lot of space. The fridge runs deep, so if you position your bottles right and use stackable containers, you can fit A LOT in this fridge. It's insane. You can fit about 8 soda cans inside the door. Me personally, I keep sodas stacked, with vegetables in the bottom tray, lay my condiment bottles down on the 2nd row above that, keep food stored on the 2nd row and use the top 3rd row for keeping stuff extra cold since it's near the freezer.\n\nNot really a true \"freezer\". The freezer works very good but it's only to keep small things frozen. It does not get cold enough to keep food that's suppose to be frozen, frozen, so do not put stuff like ice cream, large packs of meat or any thick frozen dinners in it, they will melt and spoil and you'll think of my review and I'll be like I told you so. I use it to keep small things like butter, hotdog packs, wingettes and vegetables on ice, but do not try to put anything thick in here for long-term storage except butter, small packs of meat and condiments. I had put a 12 pack of chicken legs in there for a week thinking it would be ok and they went bad, I had to throw out the whole pack. It's also useful to get drinks cold fast. And no you can't remove the freezer tray to make more space. I but found it's welded to the back of the fridge and the thermostat wiring is welded into it.\n\nSwappable doors. The door comes off so can switch it to the other side if you want.\n\nEasy to clean. All the inside shelves and doors easily pop out for easy cleaning; just be careful when popping out the freezer flap because it only has plastic hinges that could break and you'd need a new flap. I had a soda explode in there and it took me 4 months before I decided to clean it. Surprisingly, all I had to do was wipe it down with water and dish soap and it came right off. Easy peasy.\n\nAdjustable feet. The front has two plastic adjustable feet while the back has no feet, just a metal bar. I have raggedy wooden floors so I don't care, but if you have nice floors you'll want to put a rubber mat under it so it doesn't scratch your good floors.\n\nA few tips:\nUse the bottom row for condiments and lay them down rather than standing them up  so you can have more vertical space for another tray or just to place extra stuff\n\nIf you use a tray in the very top slot, it will get like 80% benefit of the freezer and will keep things frozen. Found this out the hard way when I put some cucumbers on my top shelf only to find them frozen bricks the next day\n\nAlthough I love my Igloo, I took away a star because over time it has gotten LOUD. All of a sudden, every time the thermostat kicks on there's a very loud *POP* that is nerve-racking. I don't know if something is breaking or if it's normal but it still seems to run fine and it's been doing that popping gig for about a year now. It's probably ok but just really annoying.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4528, "id": 428950, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 594, "len_tokens": 705, "text": "We love our new Knox 48 Quart Electric Cooler/Warmer!\nI was like a kid waiting for Santa! When the cooler arrived I opened the shipping box with excitement. I was slightly concerned that although I had struggled between ordering the red or the blue. I was certain I had decided on the blue. Yet, the Knox Electric cooler/warmer box showed a pretty red cooler/warmer. I figured it wasn't all that big of a deal since I really liked the red as well. When I opened the item box, I was thrilled to see the cooler/warmer inside was indeed the blue.\nI love the multi functional use this cooler provides. Not just the option to use as a cooler or warmer, but that you can use it in the car, for a trip to the market keeping your cold items cold while you run additional errands, take a long drive as we often do, take it into our hotel room when traveling. Use it right in the backyard by the pool and avoid the kids running through the house with wet feet and risking a slip/fall as well as the mess! Take it camping, which we never do. Lol. Maybe we finally will. We can be really lazy and take it upstairs to have cold sodas. I'm sure there are a dozen or more great uses.\nI plugged it in right out of the box, switched it to cool from the off position and it's been a little less than thirty minutes, and it's already cold inside. I don't know what the temperature actually is inside, but I do know it is doing it's job.\nIt feels to be of excellent high quality. It's weight is mainly on top where the motor and fan is. The wheels roll smoothly and the pull handle is most convenient, and sturdy. It came with one nice plastic division rack to keep smaller items, such as condiments upright and secure. It does have a slot for an additional division rack or the option to divide the cooler/warmer from the right or left side.\nWhen I placed the order I had assumed that you could add ice if you wanted to perhaps take it down to beach with you, but the instructions say that you should not even rinse the cooler/warmer with water, so I guess that is not an option. The cooler/warmer requires a plug in source to function. I suppose you could add frozen gel packs prior to your taking down out to the beach. This, is the only fault I can find with this fabulous cooler/warmer.\nI am thrilled and grateful to have been selected to purchase this Knox 48 Quart Electric Cooler/Warmer, at a discount in exchange for an honest, and unbiased review.\nI am a consumer that relies on the integrity of other reviewers, prior to the purchase of most products. An embellishment of a product does not help me, you or the seller. Personally, I don't like to toss my hard earned money into the garbage any more than I suspect you do. Therefor, it is my genuine opinion that this cooler/warmer does all it claims it will. It is indeed spacious, with the added bonus of the division ability. It has a broad rage of uses, and is made exceptionally well. It is equally as attractive and durable as other coolers on the market, and it is priced in line with others in its class.\nWe are excited to get the most out of this cooler/warmer throughout every season for years to come.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4529, "id": 432984, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 684, "len_tokens": 797, "text": "I've only had this a few weeks, and I am still fine-tuning my use per volumes of detergent and fabric softener, and keeping track of how much different loads have affected how hard this machine has had to work.\n\nI tried strictly manual washing, both the plunger style and the salad-spinner style. Both proved to be very effective, but took way longer and were much, much harder, than I like.\nSalutes to all those (mostly women) who have come before and labored with whole family loads done by hand, and to everyone doing laundry by hand today!\n\nI'm still learning the proper ratios of products to water, and I am using major brand detergent and liquid fabric softener for now. I'll experiment with alternatives once I know exactly what I am doing.\n\nI chose this model because I can always do smaller loads than it is is rated for, but a smaller capacity washer caps out rather quickly for me. The first couple of loads were my dog's blankets and bedding. They were far, far dirtier than I realized and the water from the first washes was thick with mud and other things. Because of how much time since I had done commercial laundry that included these things, they needed to be washed several times - the first time through. I'm developing a habit of washing his bedding every couple of weeks. The rinse cycles are fewer to get the final rinse water almost completely clean.\n\nA common complaint centers on the built in lint filter. This is a complaint across brands and capacities. I did get a couple of the floating lint collectors, and the water drains into my bathtub which has a hair filter over the drain. But, the first couple of loads produced hair and lint bricks in the built-in filter! The filter is one part of what I need to use, but I cannot complain. At all.\n\nThe only shortcomings are adjusting to this needing constant monitoring. The only automatic things are the timers. Everything else needs to be kept track of. For a price tag of less than $200.00 USD  (likely to increase with the trade war),  I can't expect more.\n\nThe spinner is breathtakingly efficient! My one wish would be that the spinner capacity was closer to the washer capacity, but that is a standard design across all brands that I know of. It probably means smaller motors are used on the spinners, and that will cut down on weight and expense, both affecting end-user prices. I line dry, and I have had to learn to adjust how much gets washed and spun to how much hanging space I have. I just got a portable drying rack ('umbrella style' for indoor use) to increase hanging room.\nI'm still tweaking best techniques for line drying as it relates to stiffness. We are trained to think fragrance over function when we think of fabric softeners, but they are softeners first. Still learning and adapting.\n\nI only have a couple of washable things that are too bulky for this, but those can go to a commercial laundry on an occasional basis. No big deal.\n\nThis is in my bathroom. I slide it to the side of my bathtub and position the built-in hose to drain into the tub. I use the hand held shower head to fill the tub. Both the wash tub and the spinner have hose connects on the back. The spinner won't spin when the lid is open, so it isn't easy to use the spinner to enhance rinsing without a hose attached. I'll be getting an adapter for the bathroom faucet, and getting a more durable length of hose to attach and remove depending on whether the washer is in use or not.\n\nOther reviewers, both here and on YT, have other observations and experiences that are worth getting acquainted with. Buying something like this has me doing a lot of research.\n\nThis was the best solution for my laundry needs, and I have no regrets.\nAbsolutely better for me than plunging, scrubbing, and manual spin washing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4530, "id": 433036, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 696, "len_tokens": 787, "text": "The machine itself is amazing and cleans stuff really well. I had to use the reviews here and YouTube to figure out how to work it because my instructions had been translated from Italian and never really corrected. The pictures were pretty unhelpful too so I'll share what I learned:\n\nStore this close to the kitchen sink for easier access. The cord is short so invest in an extension cord of some sort. You will absolutely need to fill this from a sink so be prepared for that. It's also bigger than you think probably and weighs 9kg empty. I'm disabled and it's difficult for me to carry so I have to scoot it everywhere so keep the size and weight in mind. I'm about 6 foot and this comes up to my stomach and is about as wide abouts two of me. So it's about the size of a full machine.\n\nYou have to fill it from the back. The detached hose connects to one of two of the small circular bits in the back. The one for the washer is just that, for the rinse and wash cycles. The one for the dryer I'm told helps get suds out of clothes but I have no idea how that would drain to eventually dry clothes so I don't use it. Instead I keep using rinse cycles until the clothes are totally clean.\n\nThere's a small metal ring that comes with this meant to clamp the larger end of the fill hose to the sink faucet. If yours is anything like mine, good luck getting any of that to work. You'll have to invest in an adapter. Take the hose with you to a real physical store so you can find a proper fit instead of trying to figure it out online. You'll save yourself so much trouble.\n\nThe hose that gets the dirty water out should probably feed into a large bucket of at least 5 gallons. It's hard for the machine to pump it all up to the sink so you'll have an easier time with the bucket. Invest in some kind of very flat, absorbent kitchen rug to put the machine on because water will drip no matter how careful you are. Plus it'll keep the machine from shaking everywhere when you try to dry things.\n\nPut your laundry in one piece at a time to minimize tangling. A tangled mess keeps the washer from rotating properly. Also be careful to fill the dryer only about half full otherwise anger will possess your machine and it will shake across your kitchen and generally be a horrible nightmare of noise and movement. The spin mechanism also needs to rest after so many cycles to keep it from burning out so if your laundry isn't spinning, turn the machine off for about 20 or so minutes before coming back to it. Not as convenient as a regular machine but the safety feature keeps you from messing up your machine accidently.\n\nFor ESPECIALLY dirty clothes like muddy work clothes (my husband is in construction) rinse the clothes at about 6. Drain the dirty water because it will probably be close to black and then wash at max time with your detergent of choice. Then follow up by a drain and rinse at 9 because the water will again be nasty and the rinse helps get suds out. You might need a couple of wash or rinse cycles for especially gross clothes. Then load the dryer a bit at a time, hanging up clothes that are mostly dry because the machine won't get them totally done since it's just spin and no heat.\n\nRegular dirty clothes can be washed like normal but will need a rinse cycle because of suds and don't forget to put delicates on gentle with bras in a lingerie bag.\n\nThat's all I can think of for now. I recommend reading the instructions anyway because there's some useful information like keeping your machine on a sturdy, level surface and whatnot. I'll try to post photos later of what mine looks like set up in my kitchen in case what I've said wasn't clear.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4531, "id": 445241, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 629, "len_tokens": 753, "text": "Two things before reviewing:\n\n(1) This item was received as a sample product for either a reduced cost or for free. If this is an issue, please skip the review.\n\n(2) There IS a video on this product detailing how it works and everything about it. Simply put in my user name and the product's name and search for it on a specific video-related site. (I cannot put the exact name in, but YOU can search and find the TUBE, or channel, if you get my meaning). It is very thorough and will break down the what and how to better assist with your decision.\n\nThe reason for not uploading here is because this site currently allows only 100MB videos max. To make that meaningful, you either need a video that is VERY short or a video with quality considerations around 240P or even lower. Personally, I would rather you watch something in 1080P and see what I am talking about.\n\nNow, looking at this model, let's talk about situating it first. This is lightweight, so you can move it just about anywhere, with only a few needs really limiting the placement. The needs I mean are power, water, and draining. All of these can easily be met in a bathroom, a dorm area, or in a RV, plus other places. The main limitation is the drain, because it is shorter.\n\nWith controls, you have two water inlets on the upper left and upper right, with three dials located between them. The first is you wash timer, the second your setting (delicate, normal, drain), and the third your spin timer. I go into the setting preferences on each within the video, but note that the lower settings on timers are for delicate items, the mid-range numbers are for normal, and the higher ones are for your thicker/more absorbent items like towels and possibly jeans. The water inlets go to their adjoining sides, and you basically need to start with the water connected to the left side.\n\nWith use, you are talking about a compact item with washing and spin capability. Your cycling will basically go wash, spin, rinse, with a periodic need for rewash in there if your items are foul. Now, for washing, you are basically using a washer with an agitator inside instead of a tub, meaning it spin-spins to one side then switches versus a giant moving tub. This does a good job and allows it to be more compact, plus some of the pieces are less inclined to break. For spinning, you place each item inside, making sure they are not bunched, and select how long you want them to cycle contingent on the aforementioned criteria.  You can also drain while doing this and prep for another cycle, or for rinse depending on how you want to rinse. During spin, you will have some water drainage, too, and you can either drain it OR you can pump it back into the tub if your clothing was not heavily soiled. Before rinsing, you need to decide if you want to rinse on the spin side or on the tub side, and you should clean the tub accordingly.\n\nThis is very much like using a smaller version of a washer. The motor inside also makes it drain easily and especially so when you compare it with something like a gravity drain, which is worlds slower.\n\nWe are also talking an Ivation product, which I have had GREAT success with. Ivation makes nice items and they have always had good service for me. I have owned quite a few, too, and so many different types ranging from vacuums and lamps to items like this, a steamer, safes, and beyond.\n\nAgain, look up the video for more detail.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4532, "id": 445716, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 610, "len_tokens": 728, "text": "I read several reviews before buying this that were VERY misleading.  So here is the STRAIGHT story.  This ice maker works brilliantly for our purposes. The ice cubes are not HUGE but they aren't wet either.  The quantity of ice it makes each time is not huge but it makes ice that is perfect for cooling a beverage or making a cocktail and it does so quickly and continuously  We bought this for camping.  We like whisky on the rocks.  Our friends like ice tea or gin and tonic, etc.  The ice is perfect for this use.  Once you fill it with water and choose the size of ice desired the machine continuously makes ice until the water is used up or you turn it off.  There has not been a time yet when one water fill has not provided us all the ice we needed.  I estimate one fill up will produce about 75 of the larger ice cubes.  There is NOT a big difference between small, medium and large ice.  Not sure why you would choose small.  It makes about 8 1-1 1/2 inch diameter ice cubes every 10-13 minutes.  After 2 rounds of ice making we build our drinks and there is plenty of ice for round 2 by the time we have finished the first round.  The ice is left in the front compartment of the Della which is cooled by the machine but will not stay frozen for a long time.  Ice will start to slowly melt an hour or so after you make it.  Unused ice will simply melt and the water returns to the reservoir ready to be turned into ice again.  There is an audible alert when water level is too low to make another batch of ice.  It comes with an ice scoop to easily remove the newly made ice from the front storage compartment.  Machine itself is lightweight and has a small footprint.  Be aware!  If you move it from one location to another you need to wait 30-45 minutes for it to reset so it can be used again The machine needs to be relatively level and completely stationary.  Not perfectly level, as we use ours in a small Aliner camping trailer.  Once we go from one place to another we pull the machine from the cabinet and on to the counter by the sink. The trailer is never perfectly level and sometimes has a small, noticeable grade.  After 45-60 minutes we turn it on.  The first batch of ice sometimes takes 20-25 minutes to make,  After that the ice is made more frequently as indicated above. It is quiet, easy to use and most importantly, makes real ice that you can really use.  I would not recommend this if you are trying to make ice to replace what was in a large cooler.  The capacity and production rate will not support this.  It might work to supply your small 6 pack type cooler.  We have made ice for soft sided coolers we put in a backpack for a day hike. Perfect for this application. It isn't going to work on a boat to ice down caught fish.  Boats are to unstable for this to run and again the capacity will not support.  But if you want to have cool drinks for several people or host a campground cocktail party the Della ice maker is genius.  I can see this working for tailgating also as long as you have a power source.  We would definitely buy this again but I doubt we will have to.  This is a quality appliance and has already worked flawlessly on many camping trips.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4533, "id": 445831, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 629, "len_tokens": 754, "text": "I certainly like the concept of thus product.  Nobody likes climbing into their oven for a bit of the scrub.  This liner is easy to use, simple to clean and can save you a lot of backache.  I'll admit that the product differed in what I expected in that I was expecting these to be more like silicone baking mats used for cupcake molds and what not.  Instead this product feels more like a heavily laminated piece of paper.  This doesn't affect the performance in the oven, but does make for easier cleanup.\n\nThat pan liner worked decently well too.  It was clearly the same material, but a bit thinner.  The idea here was that you wouldn't have use oil or fat in the pan.  The performance of the pan liner was so so.  I think it would depend heavily on what you are cooking.  The product photo shows a ribeye witch would probably work well.  But for a dish that requires a lot of manipulation in the pan (i.e. eggs, stir fry, sauteed onions) this liner may not work super well.  Being light it moves around in the pan as you try to move the food and makes things somewhat difficult.\n\nI did cook a decent looking omlet for the kid without the use of any oil.  There was a bit of sticking and I had to lift the liner as I removed the egg, but it went decently well.\n\nThere is one unresolved issue that I contacted the seller about and will update my review as soon as I get a response.  On the list of instructions there is a warning at the bottom about not using these products if you have birds in the house as it may cause harm to the animal.  So what then does it do to people?  I do not want to speculate on this so I will await the seller's response.  But this could be a determining factor in whether or not I use this product long term.\n\nUpdate 7/14/16:\nI contacted the seller in regards to the harmful to birds comment.  They explained as I would have thought.  Being a teflon coated sheet there are issues when being exposed to high heat conditions (500 deg F and up).  For this same reason one is not supposed to use any nonstick cookware at high temperatures.  If you do the teflon barrier breaks down and releases gases that could be somewhat harmful.  Most of us have been doing this our entire lives and are non the wiser which is why I bumped my rating up to 5 star from 4 star.  As long as you follow the directions (don't use above 500 deg F) you should be fine.  If you do, some gases can be released.  The part I wasn't aware of has to do with birds having a higher efficiency cardiovascular system which would result in a greater affect for them.  This is why they brought canaries into mines.  So I commend House of Habitat for putting a warning on a teflon coated product where I have never seen one on other teflon products in the past.\n\nOn a side note I would also like to state that they were very speedy in response to my query.  Also the content of the letter was very well written and explained.  I somewhat anticipated a brief response but clearly the rep took her time with the reaponse.  All customer relations should be done so well.  If anyone interested should care to see the response they should send a request and I'll gladly post it.\n\nDisclaimer:  I received this product at a reduced rate for reviewing purposes.  This however did not influence my review nor did I receive any compensation for this review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4534, "id": 453208, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 687, "len_tokens": 799, "text": "No, I had not heard of this brand either when I went out looking for a refrigerator to replace my 30 year old GE.\n\nOur problem is space. Even though I certainly wouldn't mind a huge Viking or something, the reality was around 18 cu ft. I went all over the place, looked at every brand and found that most companies spent their best efforts on the bigger models.\n\nThen, I saw a Fisher and Paykell. It was the right size, had a beautiful simple design and the use of interior space was better than others in its size range. It had the desired bottom freezer, the controls were simple and made sense, the trays for fruits and vegetables were easy to access and the glass shelves could be adjusted, removed and cleaned easily.\n\nStyle-wise, I was drawn to the clean, curved door design made of smooth metal rather than textured plastic. I needed white, but the stainless is extremely good looking. F&P also now offers models with dispensers in the door.\n\nNote that the doors are not reversible so you have to order the left or right door version.\n\nThe glass shelves extend from side to side and slide into little slots. It is easy to slide them out for cleaning or adjustment. Surprisingly, the little plastic dams that surround almost all glass shelves these days are absent on the ends of these shelves. I strongly suggest that you get a couple of shallow plastic trays to hold meat or other drippy things. That is probably a good idea for any fridge, actually.\n\nThere is no dedicated meat compartment I suspect a special separate compartment would break up the interior and isn't really needed anyway. The wide expanse of shelves is what makes this interior special.\n\nWe took out one of the shelves to free up space for big and tall things.\n\nThere are two little lidded compartments in the door that we use for butter and cheese. They are not very big and certainly could have been designed to hold more in the same space they occupy.\n\nThe fruit and vegetable trays are lidded and separate, with little adjustable vents to control the humidity. They slide nicely, access is good and cleaning is easy.\n\nWe like the bottom freezer. It uses a system of separate drawers, rather than one big bin. This is a good high-end touch and the real drawer sliders make it nicer to use. The bins on other models seemed terribly cheap in comparison.\n\nThe lighting in the fridge section is fine. The drawer system for the freezer part precludes a lighting system, at least one that wouldn't be impossibly complex. But, the bins slide out and it is easy to see in them under normal kitchen light.\n\nOn another site, a reviewer complained that a glass shelf broke. They do look a little vulnerable as they are so long and thin. However, we stored two turkeys on one shelf with no problems. Tempered glass is very strong and I would think problems would be rare.\n\nThere were also a couple of complaints about noise. Our kitchen is like a  stage where every sound is projected into the adjacent living room. Still, I can hardly hear it and it is rarely even on anyway. This may be a princess and the pea situation. In our case, the old fridge was 20x noisier, so this is fine.\n\nOperation-wise, we are very happy. The fruits and vegetables do indeed last much longer than before, the ice cream (even Ben & Jerrys) is hard and the ice doesn't stick.\n\nOne oddity is that even when the feet are adjusted to tilt the unit back a bit, the doors will not close all the way on their own. The formidable gaskets hold it back. But not to worry. The door-open alarm will not let you forget. It will probably rid your house of rodents and insects.\n\nWe are happy with this fridge. It looks great, has about as much utility as possible in its size range and works well. I am hoping it will be reliable.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4535, "id": 453819, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 695, "len_tokens": 798, "text": "Note: I bought the black one, but I know most people prefer stainless steel, so I thought I would post this review for both fridges.\n\nWe are very happy with our fridge. It is huge on the inside, and very bright, and the shelves are sturdy and there is plenty of room to organize the fridge the way you like. The freezer is nice and roomy and the only thing I do not like are the 2 wire baskets at the bottom. I have a hard time pulling them out since items peek through the wire mesh and get caught with the items in the basket underneath or on top.\n\nBut the nicest feature is the fact that the ice maker is on the SIDE, on the freezer door. The only caveat is that you have to make sure not to place anything on the top shelf to block the connection to the side ice maker, but there is plenty of space on the top shelf, so it is not too big of a problem. According to manufacturer's specs, there is no more cubic feet in this model than the older one that had the ice maker inside the freezer (The model LG LSC27910SB and this one both have 10.24 cubic feet of space). However, I prefer have shelf space rather than a side drawer space. Plus, the pull-out ice bin on the side is really nifty and compact, and slides easily in. It is clear plastic so you can see how much ice is in it.\n\nI also really like the tall dispenser. At first, I thought it was gimmicky until I had company and had to fill 2 pitchers of water several times through the evening. No tilting and trying to fit the pitcher under a short dispenser! It really is a nice feature. And if you have a fragile pitcher, there is a water button that you can use instead of pushing against the dispenser.\n\nFinally, the digital display looks really cool. The numbers and symbols are this pretty blue color (not red, which would have been horrible), and after you get used to pressing the buttons to change the settings and not the display (for some reason, we kept doing this when trying to change the ice setting from crush to cube or vice versa), it is very handy. Aside from the forementioned button for Ice Type, there are buttons for setting the temps of your refrigerator (40 degrees for us-- at 38 degrees the juice froze) and freezer (0 degrees), a button for \"Ice Plus\", a feature that revs up the ice machine and makes more ice cubes faster (but don't forget to turn it off when you have enough ice!), and a button to change lock the display and deal with the alarm (an alarm can go off after 30 seconds to warn you you have left the door open). Also, the display of the temperatures is not the actual temperature of the fridge or freezer, which would have been really cool, but the settings.\n\nThe water dispenser requires a filter that the manufacturer recommends be replaced every 6 months, and they have a display with a monthly digital countdown for that! We have not decided whether we will replace it every 6 months, and if we do not, there is supposed to be a way to reset this timer so it won't bother you if you don't.\n\nWe bought the black one, and we love it. The handles are longer than the older model and look very sleek. The only odd thing about the black is that the doors are smooth black, the but the rest of the fridge is that textured black that fridges usually come in. At first, it drove me crazy, but now I do not notice it.\n\nWe are very, very happy with this fridge and would recommend it. We got it from our local big box hardware store (only one of the national stores carry it, the other does not carry LG), and we bought the extended warranty just in case. It was worth the $99 for 4 years of peace.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4536, "id": 455409, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 546, "len_tokens": 725, "text": "first of all as someone else mentioned all the bad reviews are from people that have little knowledge of homebrewing. This system by no means is plug n play or should i say..its not plug n go. By spending an extra $25 this system is great ($15-ish for 5ft hose and $5-ish for digital thermometer and $5 for some putty...keep reading for explanation). But by spending an extra $150 this system works like a champ and a top of line kegerator!!\n\nMOD#1  This system is more European than American. Its like a mix. They used Euro fittings so i just replaced the entire 2-1/2\" black Column Tower with a Chrome one and \"Standard\" (USA) fittings (this was $60)...i admit replacing the colomn was not needed but it just looked nicer and i wanted to customize / my handles.\n\nMOD #2\nAvanti supplied a 3 foot hose which is way short and at least a 5 foot hose is needed for proper \"foam control\" between the temp/beer/co2 mix. The #1 reason for foam is pople not having properly dialed in the co2/temp to the specific beer. Anyways be sure to get a 5' x 3/16\" I.D. hose with 3/16\" tailpiece and hex nut connection - available at micromatic or beveragefactory or your favorite brewery part seller. this should about $20 shipped\n\nMOD #3 This is not needed either but i recommend buying a good external temperature controller if you want \"better control\" of the temperature as i noticed the stock temperature controller would fluctuate 4 to 6 degrees Fahrenheit on average however there were times i seen it fluctuate by as many as 8 (8 was rare). i bought this \"Johnson temperature controller\" from Micromatic [...]\nWithout a doubt though please do yourself a favor and go to your local fishstore and buy a digital thermometer with a chord for $5 and stick it in your kegerator to make sure you have a good temp.\n\n****** TIPS for those buying this Avanti unit: *******\n\nTIP #1 KEEP THE DOOR CLOSED!!! if u keep opening the door its like BBQing and opening the lid...you are letting all the warm air in!!! SO KEEP IT CLOSED!!\nTIP #1.5 MAKE SURE TO SEAL OFF all \"Air-holes\" in other words make sure no air can come in or out of the unit when it is close, i sealed the hole off in the back (the hose hole) with some silly putty type putty that they use for posters from office depot.\n\nTIP #2 REPLACE THE STOCK HOSE with 5ft\n\nTIP #3 Buy a cheap digital thermometer (the one with the chord) as this will save you the headache of guessing temp. I bought one at Pectco/Petsmart in the Fish section. Dial in your temp\n\nTIP #4 Make sure you have the right temp/Co2 mix for your specific beer\n\nTIP #5 let the keg sit inside the kegerator at the desired temerature for 48-72 hours to let the keg \"settle in\", if you try to use it right away then don't be surprised by foamy beer. LET THE KEGGED BEER SETTLE!\n\nTIP #5 after all that if u still have foamy beer its something you are doing wrong but its not the machine. check this site to troubleshoot [...]", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4537, "id": 456027, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 627, "len_tokens": 787, "text": "We didn't know what to think about Bosch when we came across this oven/rangetop (in white), but were immediately struck by the retro look, 5-element broiler, and knobs easily-accesible on the *front* of the range.\n\nThe price is quite reasonable for the quality and look. So we took the leap and purchased a floor model. This is a great oven!\n\nIt suggests a 40-50 amp circuit breaker. We used a 50-amp breaker with a 30 ft. run of 8-gauge wire and the 3-prong pigtail connector from Home Depot (heavy-duty, $24, slotted -- not the one with an L-shaped prong). It is 30\" wide at the widest point and fit into an opening just an eighth of an inch wider than 30\". There are leveling adjustments on the legs and comes with a floor mount to slide one of the back legs into to stabilize the oven, which jiggles slightly when the door is opened, without it.\n\nThe result is plenty of juice to to heat with. The burners heat up to a glowing red within 5 seconds. Impressive, compared to the old electric range we replaced with this Bosch.\n\nThe Controls:\n\nThe dials are great. Easy to turn, and for the two burners with multiple rings, allow the size of the hot part of the burner to be controlled.\n\nThe oven, timers, and warming drawer are controlled by touch-type controls and a single dial at the back of the range. We had trouble with the Timer button registering a push, but that may be a fluke with this model only. A repairman is on his way to check it out.\n\nTo turn on the oven requires 3 or 4 pushes, turns of the dial. Not bad. Get's fast with practice. And it's very nice to be able to set the \"done\" time and cooking time and have the oven figure out what time it needs to turn on to have the meal ready at the given time.\n\nThe warming drawer has two settings, is stainless steel, and may be used independently of the oven, if desired.\n\nWe are very pleased with this oven. We like the look (again, we prefer the white) and how it generally operates.\n\nHowever:\n\n- The buttons are a bit difficult to press, requiring many attempts to get it to \"take\" (e.g., timer, light, cooking mode)\n\n- The cooktop lights near each dial when hot. Although that might be a useful feature for some, this cooktop is missing any LEDs indicating that the burner is ON. That means, you *cannot* tell at a glance whether the burners are on -- the lights just mean that the burners are hot. So you're constantly having to manually check each one, to see whether the little black line is exactly in the UP position. A simple LED on each burner dial would solve this and it's a surprising omission. The way these burners work, they're either 100% on, or completely off. The dial only dictates the percentage of time that they're on full power. So at a glance, you cannot tell whether the burner is OFF, or just in-between full-glow mode.\n\n- The top is pretty difficult (nearly impossible) to keep clean.\n\n  The smallest amount of food, or even the bit of residue on the bottom of your pots from your previous burners will cause the most horrible-looking black rings to be \"welded\" onto the cooktop surface. There is a special non-abrasive cleaner that must be purchased to get it off (that won't scratch the glass cooktop like Comet would). Each time a burner is used to heat anything but water, it will leave black marks under the pan that take a few minutes to get off with special cleaner and a razor blade.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4538, "id": 456513, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 674, "len_tokens": 786, "text": "After much research we decided to replace our 20 year old Jenn Air downdraft dual fuel range, with the GE CAFE dual fuel range. I was not happy to see the old stove go as it had been old reliable. I also was reading all the pros & cons available on a new range. So much info out there. I even questioned repeating the dual fuel. I do not so far miss the downdraft, It was a good venting system, but allowed drafts on cold winter days. My old stove looked like new on the outside, but was rusting from the inside out. Questioning my choice I went with dual fuel again. Now, very happy I did. We did have to add a charcoal filter to the Microwave venting because it is now the only way to vent. After reading reviews of new Jenn Air stoves I was dis alusioned. Apparently they don't make them like they use to.\n\nSo,the GE Cafe caught my eye. If I purchased another Jenn Air downdraft, I could not have a 2nd oven. That was a feature I have wanted for a long time. I also loved the look of the stove top. The stainless is bright as opposed to a black top. I love that I have 5 burners. Another feature that attracted me. This design uses the entire stove top, which gives far more cook top space. All my appliances are now stainless. I have mastered keeping stainless looking like new with very little effort. Also there are no seams on the stove top making it a breeze to clean.\nThe new range far surpasses the old. Burners are very high performance. You boil with ease or simmer no hassle on even the high output burners. The oven appears to be far more spacious then my old range was.\n\n I was thrilled at the convection making the recipie conversion for me and the crusty bread result. It did require reading the manual to realize why it would only acheive a 350 temp as opposed to the 375 I was entering. I also used the time bake function which was right on correct. My range is so very new to me that I have not tried the small oven as of this date. Since I will make the most use of it as a warming oven for Holiday meals, I'm sure I will be pleased. Ther is not a self clean on the draw oven, so I do not plan on any messy cooking in that oven. I did not like the dual larger oven slide in model. Both ovens lost space for large capicity and the larger oven was on the bottom. Somehow I could not see myself happily removing a turkey from that level oven. I have not yet exoerienced the hot control knob issue.\n\nSo after reading too many reviews. Talking too two many people. Racking my brain with pros & cons. Both myself and my husband agree that our new GE Cafe Range is a welcome addition and so far a really good choice. I also purchasaed the extended 10 year warrenty. Read to many reviews not to. It is amazing me with it's functions and gives that high end look that attracted me to it in the first place. Hoping for many years of use.\n\n  After owning and using my GE Caf for about 1 year I just wanted to add my in use thoughts....Still pleased with performance. Will admit it took some getting use to. With hotter burners and high energy oven I had to make adjustments on my cooking times and approach. I actually burned stove top dishes and oven broiling. There is a learning adjustment. Also I must admit I am a bit disappointed in the bottom oven. It is actually a draw and it holds very little. I would say it is only useful as a warming draw. It is not an even heat as the larger oven and it will not bake small bake goods evenly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4539, "id": 456643, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 561, "len_tokens": 761, "text": "Background you can skip\nWe have, or I should say HAD, a microwave hood right over our cooktop. The builders of the home had taken some shortcuts and installed the hood WAY too close to the cooktop (dangerous) and they also had not installed any ducting.\nNatural result of such and environment is that the microhood died on a O/D of grease in the interior.\nSo we set oput to find a decent range hood alternative that would hang at the right height over the cooktop and pretty quickly found that there was NO WAY that a microhood existed that would fit. Also, we found, we could not find replacement cabinets in the same style  as the kicthen to create more room over the  cooktop to retrofit a new microhood.\n\nConclusion: buy another microwave that is not a hood AND find a range hood that would not exceed 7\" in height so that it would not be too close to the cooktop.\nSecondly, find one with enough CFM to work well for our wokking and excessive cooking.\nThridly, try and find all this WITH a recirculation option so that we would not have to try and put expensive ductwork into the home.\nForth: have it fit our stainless look kicthen decor\nAnd lastly, get all this for under 400$.\n\nAbout the ZEPHYR AK1200\nWe shopped and shopped and always found something amiss: either not enough CFM, no recirculation option, too expensive or a combination thereoff. 2 brands did jump out at us for reasonable prices, good CFM and nice designs with low profiles: SUMMIT and ZEPHYR.\nUnder 400$ it is almost impossible to find all this, mind you.\nThe ZEPHYR AK1200 won for us because of a couple of reasons, that we consider pros.\n\nPROS:\n) Price, price, price\n0 Non-obtrusive design that cann fit into any decor.\n0 All stainless outside, no plstic black panels etc as the Broans in this price range sport. the controls are in a plastic panel but under the hood.\n0 Lighting with dimmers (2 step, not halogen), 2 lights, well aimed at cooktop and easily cleanable with glass covers\n0 400 CFM!! For this price. Awesome\n0 Large single blower/fan cage.\n0 Cheap recirculation option: under 20$!! Very cheap.\n0 Low sones at low speeds, does get noisy when blowing full speed but that is the price of most CFM\n0 Again, can be installed ducted (3.25\" by 10\") or ductless\n0 Easy clean dishwashed aluminum filters\n0 Really low profile at 5.25\". perfect for those that need under cabinet without excessive space available for larger hoods.\n0 Timer feature on blower\n\nCONS:\n0 Not as silent as hoped, but as silent as it gets in this pricerange.\n0 Control panel un underside of hood, easy for wifey but I have to still feel around a bit.\n0 Some mighht find the design not very inspiring.\n0 Fan cage is plastic\n0 Little on the loud side in all 3 settings\nCONCLUSION:\nThe ZEPHYR's offer excellent designs at perfect prices. Not excessively expensive but with features that compare to >500$ hoods. If this is too bland, look at the ZEPHYR or SUMMIT more expensive lines. They get very modern but unfortunately too high profile for us. Even the Boran's we looked at did not compare, being a low end manufacturer. This stuff is Excellent price/quality.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4540, "id": 457021, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 535, "len_tokens": 708, "text": "Admittedly, I did not purchase this item on Amazon however, I am an avid customer and thought I would take this opportunity to try and help others.  I purchased this range and so-called matching micro hood directly from Whirlpool (the manufacturer).  I have friends who work there.  Even at a very low price relative to retail, I regret the purchase and haven't even used them yet.\n\nFurther, I develop products for a living.  I am highly critical of poor design/quality and equally impressed by good design/quality.  I am outspoken in either case.  Stated simply, these products are poorly designed and made.  They are an attempt to wrap a cost saving effort in a semi upscale wrapper.  Epic fail.\n\nJust yesterday, both the range and micro hood were professionally installed.  I was excited to get home and see the new appliances.  I was really disappointed with what I found.  Here's a short list for starters.  Remember, they are both architect series II.\n\n  1.  The handles on the range do not match the micro hood.\n  2.  The LED displays do not match.  The display in the range is way over driven and excessively bright. Looks terrible and cheap.\n  3.  The cast iron grate on the right side is warped upwards in the middle nearly 1/4\".  I'll be requesting a replacement from Whirlpool.\n  4.  The knob for the double burner sticks out further than the others.  I requires an extra press inward but, could have easily been aligned.\n  5.  There is a razor sharp edge around the oven door that will certainly cut someone if you happen to hit it while reaching to close the oven door.\n  6.  The overall construction is really thin and flimsy.  I could fold the warming drawer in half with my bare hands although, I would get cut.\n  7.  Even the \"Kitchenaid\" logo plate is a different color on the range from the micro hood.  Again, these are supposed to match.\n  8.  When you turn on one burner the igniters for all 4 fire.  A nice cacophony of sound.\n  9.  There is no stop for high.  So, you have to listen for the point after the igniters just shut off.  So bad.\n 10.  The leveling feet (small dia chrome bolt with brown plastic molded on the bottom) are visible from the front.  Really guys?\n\nI'm sure there is more but, I just wanted to get started.  I have no idea how the unit performs as I haven't used it yet.  All I can say is that I could not be more disappointed in the overall design and quality.  They seemingly took a cheap range and wrapped it in a thin layer of stainless.  You can see where these cover parts are attached!  It's just really cheap and cheesy.\n\nI've read, to my surprise, that the right rear and left front burners can barely boil water.  If you look at the reviews on the Kitchenaid site, they are all glowing and do not mention this.  I will update this review on the performance of the range after some use.  But, in terms of design, quality, and value, do yourself a favor and look at other brands.  Surely, someone must do better than this.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4541, "id": 457842, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 671, "len_tokens": 797, "text": "This oven is just bad, and horrible customer support makes the experience of owning it even worse. It was the most expensive appliance I purchased when I redid my kitchen two years ago. Most expensive by a fair penny. I expected to enjoy its high end features, despite not using the oven more than a few times per month.\n\nAfter the 3rd time I used the meat probe (just over a year after buying the oven), the plastic insulation split where it attaches to the probe, completely exposing the wires inside. As an electrical engineer, I have always taken care not to flex wires in ways that strain them, and this probe was no exception. It was just poorly made with no strain relief, and I suspect that material and dimensions are under-designed for their function. After a painfully long process of reaching the right person and explaining that a premium brand like Electrolux can't possibly expect a probe to fail after 3 uses, the representative finally agreed to provide a replacement rather than charging me the ridiculous amount that I have since blocked from my memory. However, they would not just ship me the probe. They insisted on having a service technician come out to inspect the broken probe and give me a replacement. I offered to send them the defective probe for them to inspect before sending the replacement, but they declined. Hence, I was forced to miss a morning of work and Electrolux was forced to pay a third party service provider to visit my home. Poor economics on both sides of the equation.\n\nThen, yesterday, I was cleaning the oven. It's now a bit over 2 years old, and I was running the self-clean for the 2nd time ever. About 1.5 hours into the cycle, I heard a big bang. The middle pane of glass in the oven door had shattered. When I called Electrolux, the representative explained that the glass exploded because the temperature got too hot for the glass. I explained that, since Electrolux designed the self-cleaning process (and doesn't enable users to set self-clean temperatures) and since Electrolux specifies the glass used in the oven door, the problem she described sounds like a design flaw on the part of Electrolux. The outcome of a lengthy call (with a little discussion interspersed with longer times on hold), Electrolux agreed to give me the $258 piece of replacement glass at no cost, but they will not provide a new door and they will not cover the cost of the service call to have a technician disassemble the door to replace the glass.\n\nI have gone back and done some searches on shattering glass in Electrolux ovens. This is not an uncommon phenomenon. Given the marginal increase in cost to use a more robust piece of glass inside the door, it is unconsionable that Electrolux has chosen to let even a small % of it's customers be exposed to this problem. I was cutting up pineapple with a very sharp knife when the big 'bang' occurred. I jumped, and easily could have cut myself. Beyond that, I have read about peope whose exploded glass was not contained within the door and could have caused other injury. For a product in this price range, it is absurd that the manufacturer does not spend a few more dollars (or SEK) on materials and add few more dollars (or SEK) to the price and just insure that its customers will not be exposed to this problem.\n\nI hope to be able to get the door repaired without some of the onerous delays I've read that other people experienced, and I hope to get many more years of use from this oven. However, I do not intend to ever run the self-clean again, and certainly do not expect to ever purchase another Electroux product.\n\nNote: I bought this from a retailer other than Amazon, but since most of my reviews are on Amazon, I am placing this one here, as well.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4542, "id": 457906, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 607, "len_tokens": 785, "text": "Update 11/17/2015 - Dropped this to a 1-star rating.  Absolutely HATE cleaning this thing.  Awful design by Whirlpool.  In order to thoroughly clean this, I end up basically taking the entire top apart.  Takes way too much time and doesn't stay very clean for long.  My wife wants to replace it now... but these are costly!\n\nMy wife and I purchased this cooktop as part an entire suite of Whirlpool Gold appliances for a kitchen remodel.  We've been using this for about 2 years now.\n\nPros:\n- The cooktop is beautiful (when it's clean...see Cons).  It it made of quality materials and it looks like it.  The knobs are not cheap plastic...when you pull them off for cleaning you can feel the weight and how solid they are.  The grates are rock solid.\n- Plenty of space for cooking many items at once.\n- Fine control of the flames.  And if the flame gets blown out, it will relight itself.\n- The recessed grates really give it a nice built-in appearance.  But is also the cause of one of the Cons.\n\nCons:\n- This is the sole reason for the 3-star rating.  This appliance is VERY difficult to clean.  And I believe the reason is due to the recessed grates.  The way this cooktop is designed, the perimeter sits relatively flush with the counter, basically the thickness of the stainless steel (...maybe 1/8 inch or so) is above the level of the counter.  Then where the grates start, it drops down about 1/2 to 3/4 inch (vertically) which allows the grates to be recessed.  While this is visually very nice it makes it very difficult to clean.  You're basically cleaning the bottom of a very shallow box.  So as you're wiping the bottom of the cooktop, there's really no easy way to get the crumbs and stuff out of the cooking area because you can't wipe them \"off\".  You're wiping them into a vertical wall or into a corner.  I think if Whirlpool would have made the bottom into drip trays, or at least something that could be easily removed for cleaning, then it wouldn't be a problem.  But the stainless steel bottom of the cooktop isn't removable without removing all of the burners and all the screws that hold it down.  For an appliance that gets so much use, and one that typically is a bit messy, this is poor.\n- If water or liquid spill out onto the cooktop, there a good chance that the liquid can get past the seal and get to the igniters.  If that happens, the igniters will not stop clicking even if the burner is lit.  The solution is easy but time consuming.  You have to remove all the burners and remove the bottom of the cooktop.  Then find all the igniters and remove them and dry them off as well as dry the area they're in.  This happened to me once.  The igniters are in the front-right corner of the cooktop, so if you ever accidentally spill something there, wipe it up fast!\n\nOverall it's a well constructed appliance that looks great and works well.  But it's not really well designed for quick, easy daily cleaning.  And as such I find that it looks like it's dirty more often than it looks really clean.  I'll probably take it all apart soon and give the bottom a good cleaning, but I shouldn't have to go to such extreme measures to clean an appliance. And I expect this will have to be somewhat of a regular task to keep it looking nice...maybe a few times a year.\n\nThanks for reading.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4543, "id": 458027, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 638, "len_tokens": 779, "text": "After moving into my new place, I decided it was time to get rid of the Danby countertop dishwasher and get a standing, 18\" portable. I'd always seen the countertop model as a stopgap, because most apartments I could afford didn't have a lot of countertop, but the Danby did well for me during the time I used it.\n\nI'd had an 18\" Sears Kenmore portable about 20 years ago, and was planning on purchasing another Kenmore because I'd been quite pleased with that one.  Then I received a $500 bonus from work, in the form of an Amazon gift certificate, so I decided to give up on Sears and see what I could get through Amazon.  I found this Frigidaire, which seemed to have reasonably good reviews at other sites, and ordered it.\n\nOn first blush, it was a lot like my old Kenmore, except the upper rack had an additional, fold-down shelf for small glasses.  Once I started using it, tho, I was disabused of the hope that it would be an improvement over my old Kenmore, or even over the Danby.  Its drawbacks are:\n\n1. It is loud.  Keep you awake at night loud.\n2. The racks are so poorly designed that I can't stack bowls in the lower level unless I leave 2-3 empty 'slots' between them.  The upper rack has enough space to accommodate bowls, but not enough prongs to hold them in place so the spray can hit them properly.  Furthermore, the extra level on the upper rack is useless since even the manual warns you not to block the spray by stacking items immediately above one another.  This means that you have only one level there, rather than the 2 levels you initially anticipate.\n3. The lower level design may be intentional, because the water spray is underpowered. If I stack dishes too closely, the spray doesn't reach between them, and the top half of the plate or bowl remains dirty.\n4. The rack problem combined with the low pressure water spray to make it impossible to fully load the dishwasher.  I can do about 3 place settings in a load - just about the same amount I could do with the much smaller Danby.\n5. The water hoses and electrical cord depend on friction to hold them in place, meaning that I have to stuff them back through a small opening into their storage space after using the unit.  Dragging the hoses & cord back out causes them to scrape against the opening, and it looks to me like that will shorten the life of the rubber/plastic coverings.  I've decided to leave the electric cord hanging out, but the water hoses need to be stored to keep them from dripping.  My old Kenmore had internal reels for these two items, making it easy to pull them out and put them back.\n\nThe one plus that the Frigidaire has over either of my two previous units is that it does have a \"Hi Temp\" setting, which heats the water during the cycle.  This is important since the water in the building pipes doesn't stay hot between the stages of the cycle.  The Hi Temp setting uses more energy, but does get the dishes cleaner than they were when I didn't use it.\n\nAll in all, I wouldn't purchase this product again.  I do prefer having an automatic dishwasher to doing all the dishes by hand, so when I purchase my next dishwasher, I'm going to take bowls and plates with me to test the rack design and, if it's a portable, I'll look for a better cord management mechanism.  The other problems probably can't be assessed in a showroom, so I'll just have to hope someone else writes a detailed review of the product I'm interested in before I purchase it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4544, "id": 459112, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 732, "len_tokens": 799, "text": "We purchased this refrigerator from a local appliance store in October 2010 for $1700.\nIt is very large and because of the black color, I was a bit worried that it would dominate the kitchen but I'm used to it now and with my black and white tile floor and dark soapstone counters I find that it blends in nicely. So far we find that it is very quiet and efficient with a nice arrangement of customizable shelves for storage. I tend to use one crisper for vegetables and salad ingredients and the other crisper for storing tubs of miso, cream cheese, butter and so forth.\nI like that the gallon storage compartments in the door have a removable grey liner that you can take out and wash individually when spills occur.\nThe large deli tray at the bottom of the fridge is handy but you need to open both doors to pull it out -- not a problem -- just something to be aware of. I usually store apples on one side and meat on the other side of the deli tray.\nThe right hand side door closes easily with just its own weight but the left hand door has the center seal strip and if you close it AFTER you close the right hand door and if you don't use just a little bit of extra force, it doesn't close all the way. I've accidentally left the door slightly open on a number of occasions. That's why the door alarm comes in handy -- it will beep to let you know that the door isn't shut properly. I wish that it beeped sooner because conceivably you could get your lunch out of the fridge and rush off to work before the door alarm activates and then your fridge would be all day with the door slightly open. This hasn't happened to us as far as I know as there is usually someone around in our household to notice the door alarm is going off.  Over time I'm sure it will become automatic for me to just close the left hand door with a bit more force. The temp low setting is also nice --- one one occasion when I had done a lot of cooking, the hot food warmed up the refrigerator and caused the temp alarm to activate. It took us a while to figure out where the alarm was coming from and once I realized what it was, I hit the Max Cool button to help restore the temperature to the proper level.\nI like that the controls are in the front of the fridge and also the light bulbs are easy to change. The light is a regular appliance bulb but since it's only on when the doors are open, it doesn't matter that it's not a low energy bulb.\nOur contractor hooked up the water supply to a reverse osmosis filter in our basement and I believe he bypassed the filter in the refrigerator. So far the water dispenser works fine, it is tucked away near the hinges of the left hand side door --- the ice maker in the bottom freezer also works well and we always have a big old supply of ice --- far more than we could ever use even in the summer.\nThe freezer drawer is very roomy but once again you need to be very mindful about shutting it--- it has a self closing mechanism but one needs to give it a generous push to ensure good closure.\nI like the shiny black doors --- I've read that the surface scratches easily and so have resolved not to clutter up the doors with fridge magnets. I don't notice that the doors get particularly marked up and the few fingerprints that have shown up on it wipe off easily. One advantage of the shiny doors is that you can see your reflection in them so it makes you think twice about getting out that snack when you can see how wide your hips look!\nWe find there is more than enough room in the fridge for the two adults and one part time adult living in our household. I haven't really had the fridge long enough to need to clean it or for problems to develop but if I do notice any problems I will come back and update this review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4545, "id": 459296, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 571, "len_tokens": 753, "text": "TL;DR:  Whirlpool/Maytag service is TERRIBLE.  If you buy their products - buy a backup fridge!  You'll need it!\n\nLet me be clear on this up front - the fridge is nice, lots of space.  This is NOT at all a review of the seller (it was purchased brick and mortar store).\n\nThe service is another story.  Customer service is courteous BUT getting anything done is a HUGE pain in the rear.  My wife and I bought this fridge from Home Depot in January this year (2011).  We got it home let it sit for 24 hours before plugging it in.  One week later we noticed ice cream not being very firm, few days later everything was thawed out.\n\nI contacted Maytag service and began the nightmare of service:\n\nFirst service appointment.  Sears repair comes out to troubleshoot the fridge - tells me the compressor is bad and needs to be replaced.  The earliest they can get me in is 7 DAYS later, mind you I'm already 3 DAYS without a fridge.\n\nSecond service appointment.  Return of Sears repairman.  The compressor is replaced, dye dryer is installed (this is an important detail - it allows other techs to use a UV light to spot any leaks).  Fridge runs great, nice and cold, case closed....\n\nNot so fast!\n\nAbout 3 months go by and the same problem crops up - we start to notice in the freezer.  I contact Maytag service right away.  I explain to them the situation, I ask for a replacement fridge at this point.  They outright refuse to replace it and insist on having ANOTHER tech come out to troubleshoot the problem so they can get a \"second opinion\".  The service rep conferences me in with the local Direct Maytag store.  I specifically tell them to bring a UV light that the fridge has a dye dryer on it; to which I'm told \"they'll make a note of it.\"\n\nThird service appointment.  Direct Maytag service shows up 4 days later.  I kid you not, the tech comes ONLY WITH A MULTIMETER, no tools other than screwdriver!!!  WTF?!?!  Tells me that the compressor is bad - no kidding.  < sarcasm >I couldn't tell this by the fact my fridge was warmer than the outside air temp!< /sarcasm >  He tells me they have to send someone else with the tools to look at it!\n\nI'm going on 4 days of having to take off work now - because they'll always be there between 8am - 5pm!\n\nFourth service appointment.  Direct Maytag shows up again - this time within 2 days.  Again, no UV light.  Tech says he found a leak (not sure how) in the original work that Sears did - he would like to \"patch it\".  He refills the fridge with coolant (05/18/11).\n\nCome yesterday (06/06/11) the fridge is warm again.  I called Maytag AGAIN.  Spoke with someone who told me they can't authorize a replacement fridge until they talk to Direct Maytag (who called them and spoke with them on the last repair in May - while I stood there).\n\nBe warned... Maytag was a acquired by Whirlpool!\n\nI would recommend staying away from any of the following companies.. they all use the same parts and service teams:\n\nWhirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Brastemp, Consul, Bauknecht and Gladiator\n\nI can imagine that the service would be right on par with this nightmare!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4546, "id": 459809, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 637, "len_tokens": 785, "text": "Does one or more of your heating burner/elements not heat up unless you jiggle it just right?\nIf so, then you might want to consider replacing the receptacle, and maybe the burner too.\n\nPull out the burner and look at the ends where they go into the receptacle. If they aren't nice and smooth, then you probably want to replace the burner AND the receptacle. (Especially if the ends look rough and partly melted.)\n\nIt is super simple to replace the burner on an electric range. Just pull out the old one and plug the new one back in. These may not be exactly the same as the original ones, but they work fine.\n\nWhat about the receptacle, is that easy too?\n\nYes, it's an easy job. The receptacle kits are $5-$10 here on Amazon.\nLet's walk through how to replace a receptacle and get your stove working like new.\n\nPull out the stove.\n++++ Unplug it from the wall. ++++\n Optional: Clean 20 years of crumbs and forgotten toys...)\nTake off the burners and drip trays.\nLift up the range and you can see the old receptacles.\nNote that the wires go toward the temperature knobs for each burner.\n  (On your stove, this may be toward the back or toward the front.)\nUse the screwdriver to remove any access panel(s) so you can follow the wires.\nPut the screws in a bowl so you don't lose them.\nNow you can see where the wires have push-connects near the temperature knobs.\n\nNow that you've seen the whole project, you can start to replace the receptacles one at a time.\nSee how the old receptacles are held on by a screw on the bracket?\nUnscrew the one you are going to replace.\nNow use the same screw to put the new bracket on. (The receptacle kit comes with new brackets, so you might as well use them.)\n\nNow look at the old receptacle hanging down.\n++++ Double check to make sure you unplugged the stove, and that none of the curious children has plugged it back in... ++++\nUse wire cutters (or even kitchen scissors) to cut the old wires away from the old receptacle.\nPull/fish those wires out toward the knobs, but leave them connected at the knobs for now.\n\nNow look at the receptacle kit. The receptacle and the wires are probably separate when you get them, but the wires simply push into the back of the receptacle with a click. It might take a bit of force to push them in, but they will go in if they are aligned correctly.\n\nSnap the new, wired receptacle into the new bracket that you've installed on the stove.\nPut the new wires where the old ones went, following the same path.\nYou want any extra wire to be behind the panel, not under your stovetop.\nUnplug the old wires and plug the new ones in where they were. (It doesn't matter which wire goes to which connector.)\n  Optional: You can coil up the extra wire and use tape/rubber band/zip-tie to keep it neat.\n\n  Tip: If this is the last receptacle replacement, you can spiral-wrap the wires around the rest of the wires to keep them neat. That way you won't be tempted to use zip ties or tape under your stove top.\n\nRe-assemble the access panels, drip trays etc...  You'll probably have to spread the new bracket apart a bit to get the burner into the new receptacle, and use a bit more force than you are used to with the old set up. It's new and tight.\n\nNow you can plug the stove back in, and slide it back into place.\n\nTest it.\nDoes it work? Of course it does!\nCongratulations! You just saved yourself $$$ you would have spent on an appliance repair man!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4547, "id": 462518, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 607, "len_tokens": 782, "text": "I have a 7 year old Samsung 33\" bottom freezer, french door refrigerator, model Samsung RF217ACPN.  This gist of this post is to tell you that you need to swap out three (3) parts total if you are experiencing ice build up in the back of your Samsung Refrigerator possibly along with water in or under the lower drawers.  As I understand it, nearly all the Samsung refrigerators built in the last decade use the same cooling and defrost mechanism.  Some models do not have a manual defrost mode, and you will need to unplug the refrigerator to actually melt the ice build up.\n\nAbout a year ago, the vegetable crisper drawers began to fill with water.  This indicated a drain freezing problem which necessitates the thawing and replacement of an improved drain heater extension part \"SAMSUNG CLIP DRAIN EVAPORATOR REFOEM Original Part: DA61-06796A (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KFG9NO)\"  This has a longer drain extension that takes heat from the heating element and extends it into the drain hole to prevent icing.  Samsung realized their original clip was deficient and released this improved retrofit.  This is not a question of if it will happen to you, it is a question of WHEN.\n\nI noticed that the rear of the refrigerator also began to show ice from some of the holes.  Normally a 48 hour defrost takes care of it but eventually it would build up to the point that the spinning fan starts to hit it.  This icing indicates a problem with your defrost system.  This item is the \"Samsung Thermo Bimetal - Prote Part # Da47-00243K (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ICO2H6)\" is one of two thermo sensors that you should replace.  This black wire sensor senses the high temperature heating conditions of the heating element and stop it before it melts your fridge.  This bimetal sensor is a more likely culprit to go bad as the resistance degrades as it ages with heat cycles eventually preventing your heating element from heating to any useful level to actually melt the frost on the coils.  The black sensor may need to be spliced into the existing wiring, so be prepared if your model requires simple wire splicing.  Yes the black high temp sensor does go bad, but there is another sensor that also goes bad that you should replace at this same time.  The item \"Samsung DA32-00006S Refrigerator Defrost Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGPERM)\" is the second of two thermostat sensors for the defrost system.  The other yellow cord sensor senses the low temperature frost conditions on the coils.  You should move the yellow defrost sensor from the tube on the right to the more central tube on the left.  This helps with sensing the ice that grows from the middle outwards.  You should replace BOTH defrost sensors as a pair to ensure that you don't revisit the problem in a month.\n\nOne last tip is for you to extend the front floor riser pegs and lift the front wheels off the ground.  This will ensure that the defrost liquid drains properly towards the rear.  Not all kitchen floors are level and if it is slanted forward even a little bit, the water can leak out the front vents and frost over after the defrost cycle.\n\nSo far, I have been frost free and the crisper drawers are dry for months.  Don't just replace this one part, you need to replace three parts in total.  All the components are relatively inexpensive.  Good luck in fixing your poorly designed and defective Samsung refrigerator.  I wanted to share this so that others will not have to go through the months-long nightmare of addressing this issue piece by piece.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4548, "id": 462884, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 592, "len_tokens": 766, "text": "I have a 7 year old Samsung 33\" bottom freezer, french door refrigerator, model Samsung RF217ACPN.  This gist of this post is to tell you that you need to swap out three (3) parts total if you are experiencing ice build up in the back of your Samsung Refrigerator possible along with water in or under the lower drawers.  As I understand it, nearly all the Samsung refrigerators built in the last decade use the same cooling and defrost mechanism.  Some models do not have a manual defrost mode, and you will need to unplug the refrigerator to actually melt the ice build up.\n\nAbout a year ago, the vegetable crisper drawers began to fill with water.  This indicated a drain freezing problem which necessitates the thawing and replacement of an improved drain heater extension part \"SAMSUNG CLIP DRAIN EVAPORATOR REFOEM Original Part: DA61-06796A (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KFG9NO)\"  This has a longer drain extension that takes heat from the heating element and extends it into the drain hole to prevent icing.  Samsung realized their original clip was deficient and released this improved retrofit.  This is not a question of if it will happen to you, it is a question of WHEN.\n\nI noticed that the rear of the refrigerator also began to show ice from some of the holes.  Normally a 48 hour defrost takes care of it but eventually it would build up to the point that the spinning fan starts to hit it.  This icing indicates a problem with your defrost system.  This item \"Samsung DA32-00006S Refrigerator Defrost Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGPERM)\" is one of two thermostat sensors for the defrost system.  This yellow cord sensor senses the low temperature frost conditions on the coils.  You should move the yellow defrost sensor from the tube on the right to the more central tube on the left.  This helps with sensing the ice that grows from the middle outwards.  Yes the yellow low temp sensor does go bad, but there is another sensor that also goes bad that you should replace.  You should also get the \"Samsung Thermo Bimetal - Prote Part # Da47-00243K (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ICO2H6)\".  The black wire sensor senses the high temperature heating conditions of the heating element and stop it before it melts your fridge.  This bimetal sensor is a more likely culprit to go bad as the resistance degrades as it ages with heat cycles eventually preventing your heating element from heating to any useful level to actually melt the frost on the coils.  You should replace BOTH defrost sensors as a pair to ensure that you don't revisit the problem in a month.  The black sensor may need to be spliced into the existing wiring, so be prepared if your model requires simple wire splicing.\n\nOne last tip is for you to extend the front floor riser pegs and lift the front wheels off the ground.  This will ensure that the defrost liquid drains properly towards the rear.  Not all kitchen floors are level and if it is slanted forward even a little bit, the water can leak out the front vents and frost over after the defrost cycle.\n\nSo far, I have been frost free and the crisper drawers are dry for months.  Don't just replace this one part, you need to replace three parts in total.  All the components are relatively inexpensive.  Good luck in fixing your poorly designed and defective Samsung refrigerator.  I wanted to share this so that others will not have to go through the months-long nightmare of addressing this issue piece by piece.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4549, "id": 463230, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 771, "text": "This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System\n\nWeve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall.\n\nWe knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer.\n\nI had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is!\n\nI did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime!\n\nLike with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works.\n\nThe pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\nDisconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe.\n\n- CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube!\n\n- My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race.\n\n- I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw.\n\n- As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster.\n\n- The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue.\n\nNOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside.\n\n- INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint.\n\n- OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4550, "id": 465823, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 624, "len_tokens": 766, "text": "I didn't really need a freezer.  I just wanted to see if sunlight could really be turned into ice.  My friend talked me into getting some solar panels from Harbor Freight and I wasn't excited about using them to run lights or radios or some other pedestrian thing.  Part of the attraction of solar is that if the power goes out you still have some electricity.  We don't lose power very often in central Florida, but we did have a hurricane a few years ago that actually put the grid down for several days, not just several hours.  It was then that I realized the most precious thing when you lose the grid is cooling, not heating.  Anyone who does camping likely has enough equipment and fuel to cook food for days with what you normally have on hand.  The rub is cooling and losing all the food in the fridge.  The milk, the eggs.  Ice was the first thing that sold out in our grocery stores and it didn't get replenished.  Thus, I thought a freezer would be an awesome thing to have in an emergency.  You could make your own ice and have lots of frozen food of every variety.  Mostly though, I just thought it would be cool beyond belief to run a freezer off solar panels.  There aren't many choices out there, so I ordered this Sunzdanzer.  5.8 cubic feet is plenty of room.  I have run this thing for a couple of years now, and I am impressed.  You can expect temperatures to be stable at about 6 degrees Fahrenheit.  That's cold enough to freeze anything but ice cream.  I think ice cream prefers to be about 0 degrees, so ice cream in this unit will unfortunately be a little too soft.  But everything else is great.  Popsicles, Lean Cuisines, steak, fish, bread, frozen vegetables all are frozen hard and stay that way.  Plus, this unit is extremely quiet.  When it is running, the most you can hear is a faint trickling of water sound.  Never a motor sound.  The engineering is very impressive.  One more caveat about the temperature.  My results are based on the freezer being indoors with normal indoor temps.  If you have this unit out in the garage with super hot temps (like my garage) I have no idea what the freezer would be capable of, but it would be tougher on the unit.  The unit came very well packaged and was delivered by an 18 wheeler tractor trailer from New Mexico.  It wasn't very heavy either.  The unit runs only off 12 volt or 24 volt, so it is totally engineered for solar which is great.  I will offer a couple of nit picks, but don't take them to heart, they are small things really.  First, there are three baskets that can lay just inside the top of the unit giving you the ability to compartmentalize a bit.  You end up with an arrangement like a box of chocolates -- you can remove the top layer of items by removing the baskets and get to the bottom layer of food pretty quickly.  What I didn't like was the little handle brackets that  hang onto the top ledge of the freezer interior -- the brackets slip out of position and collapse making you reset them.  That is chronic but just an annoyance.  The other is the light bulb inside.  It is a 24 v bulb and is rather dim when used with 12 v.  And you can't find a 12 v. bulb like this anywhere - even the manufacturer doesn't have them.  The resulting interior light is enough, but only barely.  Overall, though I am very impressed with this freezer and recommend it to you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4551, "id": 466006, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 500, "len_tokens": 731, "text": "Don't...\nbuy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use.  This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models.  I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops.\n\nHere are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's \"Use and Care\" manual:\n\n500-series:\nhttp://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975580612\n(page 14)\n\n800-series:\nhttp://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975587312\n(page 16)\n\nFlexinduction:\nhttp://www.goedekers.com/assets/PDF/Bosch/bosch-nitp666suc-use-and-care-manual.pdf\n(page 15)\n\nI called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call.  I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off.  I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to \"just turn off\" on its own.  On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and \"get back to me with an answer\".\n\nWell, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer.  The support people don't know, and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer).  How strange is that?  But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to \"an unknown at Bosch\".  The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals:\n\"Automatic time limitation:\nIf the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. \"F8\" and the residual heat indicator \"H/h\" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours).\"\n\nThe email also briefly revealed that \"a customer\" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations.  Whatsoever!  I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for \"safety reasons\" but no other details were offered.  Safety reasons?  Really?  Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state?  Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off  \"for safety reasons\"  Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others.\n\nI hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off?  Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off.\n\nBottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between \"1 and 10 hours\".  Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it for 4-5 hours to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef.\n\nBosch engineers take notice!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4552, "id": 468175, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 617, "len_tokens": 710, "text": "I've been using my Bosch Vision 500 washer/dryer combo for about six months and am very favorably impressed. I have them stacked vertically with the pull-out laundry shelf in between the two units.  The Bosch Vision is different from other machines I've owned in the past in terms of cycle selection, temperatures and options so it does pay to familiarize yourself with the manual before use but it's not difficult to get up to speed in 15 or 20 minutes of reading.\n\nI do agree with one reviewer who said the handwash cycle isn't great for removing stains or deep cleaning. It is a very short cycle designed to keep delicate clothes in top condition and at this it succeeds, just don't expect deep cleaning power. I've found I can safely wash all my handwash woolens on the cold/cottons cycle with excellent results - both in terms of effective cleaning and also being gentle in terms of not causing stretching or piling of delicate fabrics. I do generally run most cycles with an extra rinse but this machine cleans with incredibly small amounts of water, even with the additional rinse the total water consumption is very low.\n\nI'm amazed at how little detergent is necessary to achieve a bright, fresh appearance and feel to all my clothes. The manual warns about using too much detergent and I think other users either do not read the manual or don't understand how little is needed for optimal cleaning. I use Method liquid detergent which says four pumps is for one load. I've experimented with different amounts of detergent and learned that most small to moderate sized loads of normal soiling get super clean with only one pump of detergent. For more heavily soiled loads with oils, greases, sweat and other contaminants that break down the detergent I've found two pumps provides better (excellent) results. I might use three or four pumps but only for large loads of clothes worn by a deep fry cook or mechanics overalls full of oil residues. And at 4.4 cubic ft. you can do some rally large loads. I washed a load of really absorbent thick white cotton bath towels that completely filled the drum using two pumps of Method detergent and one ounce or regular bleach and they came out smelling fresh, looking bright and super soft and fluffy. What really impressed me though was how solid the machine felt/sounded when agitating and spinning such a large and heavy load. Smooth and as close to silent as one could hope for - the sound barely changes from small to huge loads and I've the machines have never shaken or vibrated regardless of load size.\n\nI don't understand the problem some have reported with mold. The only precaution I've taken is to leave the washer door slightly ajar for one day after I've done laundry (then I close it if I want) and there has been nothing but fresh, clean smells. I can't say that about my first front-load laundry pair (Maytag Neptune). They molded within the first month or so and the smell never went away even after I had the redesigned seal installed. And the Neptune never got my clothes completely clean. The Bosch manual says too much detergent can cause mold and I think this is the likely culprit for those who have reported a moldy smell from the Bosch. Only use a small amount of detergent, less than you think will work. You will save a lot on detergent costs and have clothes that are cleaner and fresher than ever. This is a difficult concept to come to terms with for people who are accustomed to water-guzzling top loaders.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4553, "id": 468251, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 658, "len_tokens": 780, "text": "If you buy any Vent-a-hood with this terrible Magic Lung system you will be shocked the first time you have to clean it. You're probably used to removing a mesh or screen to clean your hood, right? Maybe even disposing of one and replacing it with a clean one? Well, forget all that because you are going to be dealing with the most difficult household task you can possibly imagine.\n\nFirst, you'll remove a large metal shield that will be covered with grease/oil on the inside and drip it over to your sink so you can soak at least part of it in ammonia and hot water. You'll discover then that you should have covered all your counters, floor and cooktop with towels or something.\n\nNext, you'll have to undo slimy \"suitcase latches\" on either side of this really heavy metal box that goes over the blower wheels. It will be drenched in grease/oil even if you, like me, try never to fry or saute food in the house. It will not fit in a double sink so now you can carry it dripping to your laundry room and put it in a big/deep sink and run gallons of boiling water. Pour in the ammonia and let it soak while you proceed to:\n\nStep three: the impossible removal of the blower wheels using a 1/8\" hex wrench threaded through one of the fins of the wheels. It will not turn, so slip across your tile to the garage and get a heavy duty pair of pliers and try to use that for leverage. No luck. Try again. No luck. Try again. Fail. Now, you'll have to figure out how to clean the thing in place while you lean over your cooktop (and I needed a stepladder), bumping your head on the hood surround and trying to work paper towels on a butter knife through the fins which are concave and curved away from you and very closely spaced together while it is dripping ammonia on you and everything else... Forget it! After 45 mins you'll give up and leave some of the grease there. Go back and get the heavy box and realize that all the ammonia did was turn the grease white, so now you have to clean it with paper towels and more ammonia, gassing yourself in the process, cutting your fingers on the raw metal edges, running to get small utensils to work your towels into the little crevices and completely messing up your laundry area and the sink.\n\nRinse this metal box and drag it dripping to the kitchen where you have to hoist it up and over the blower wheels and somehow manage to hold it there while you use one hand to find, connect and close each suitcase latch. Whew! Now get the shield out of the kitchen sink and clean it with paper towels and put it on, trying to make the screw holes match up so you can screw it down.\n\nI have built 6 custom homes and totally remodeled 3 others and have never, ever hated an appliance or other product as much as I detest this one. Yes, it appears to have a strong updraft (carrying all those little oil beads into the ghastly magic lung) and yes it is a little quieter than a jet engine, and YES it was very expensive, but it is a horrible, horrible torture device to clean and maintain. You should do it every few months but you will hate it so much you'll be lucky to get it done once a year, making the job even worse.\n\nMaybe restaurant kitchens can hire people do things like this (strong, tall people) but the average homeowner should not have to completely disassemble (or try to disassemble) gigantic parts just to clean their stove hood. This should not be a residential product.\n\nBuy any magic lung Vent-a-hood at your own risk. You've been warned.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4554, "id": 470246, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 634, "len_tokens": 735, "text": "I purchased the Maytag MHW7000XW/MGD7000XW washer gas dryer pair for my mother. Her aging 18+ year old and well used Kenmore top loader washer and gas dryer had given very good service but it was reaching the end of its useful life. We have always had good luck with appliances barring the Kenmore name. Mothers 20+ year old uneven and erratic oven had ruined its last meal over the holidays so she asked me to find her a new one. I found the Kenmore gas convention that net her and my criteria. So far she has had it for 2 months now it works very well. Mother is a technophobe and doesn't like buttons but to get the features she wanted that is what she had to get. It works extremely well. I have gotten a few tech support calls but she is getting used to it. So while we were in the store getting the new stove purchase written up I was wondering around looking at the other appliances washer/dryers and dishwashers. Having replaced her at the time 15+ year old fridge 2 years ago the washer promo displays energy and water savings claim caught me eye. Mother is on private well and septic. I did my research not a lot out on this model yet but the little was positive. I downloaded the PDF of the manuals and liked what I saw. Mother has had it for almost a month now and it works very well. I spend most of my days off at my parents so I do my laundry there most of the time. It has buttons so more tech support but not as confusing as the oven. I made a little cheat\nsheet for her. Lot of settings that you will only use rarely but nice to have options. The fresh hold feature uses a fan and periodically rotates the load to keep it from getting that musty smell is nice. When I get there after work its usually late. I eat dinner throw a load in and go to bed. So far we are using 3/4 to 1/2 less soap, oxiclean and softener etc savings there. It uses much less water and the clothes come out much cleaner than the old top loader useing much less soap. The pedestals are a must unless you are very short or going for a European style under counter install. the 7000 series has a few improvements over the cheaper 6000 series the oxiclean/color safe bleach compartment drum light in washer a few extra options. The washer is much quieter and the max extract gets out so much water that drying is about half the time over the old equipment. The old large capacity washer could only handle a max of 7 pairs of blue jeans at a time this washer has taken 10 pair in stride. Wash times are longer than the old top loader and the time remaining is only a random guess. My parents have pets cats and dogs. The dog tuns the end of the bed spread black in no time and it came clean. The allergen/steam sanitize feature is a plus with pets around.\n\nUPDATE: Its been over a year and works very well Gets clothes cleaner than the old top loader with less soap & oyx does take longer and the remaining time display lies. But it adapts the cycle as it goes uses far less water the dryer gets clothes dry faster than the old one partly a function of the washers max extract feature. The steam option is nice but rarely used the dryers static reduce is nice in the winter. My mother really likes the pedestals the raised height is much easier on her back and my father has even successfully used them.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4555, "id": 470368, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 665, "len_tokens": 797, "text": "I have a stacked LG washer/dryer on tile on my first floor. The vibration during the washer spin cycle transfers to the floor and walls of my entire home  in fact it transfers all the way up to the second floor, making the window in my master bedroom rattle loudly in its frame. Aside from this annoyance, I worry that it can also cause damage to the studs and floor joists of my home. So, I've been researching and working on a solution for about the past year.\n\nFirst, I bought the Vibrafix rubber feet sold on Amazon. If you're on this page, you've probably already seen it  it has a lot of positive reviews. The Vibrafix feet reduced the vibration upstairs slightly, but the window still rattled audibly.\n\nSecond, I re-leveled the washer. The machine was technically already level, but I figured the vibration might be reduced if I improved the leveling further. I didn't notice much of a change after leveling.\n\nThird, I bought this Rubber-Cal Anti-Vibration Washing Machine Mat. I really wanted it to work  it had a handful of 100% positive reviews, including one which described a stacked washer/dryer on tile just like mine. At first I was hesitant since it was so expensive ($93 for a rubber mat??), but I figured that it was a small price to pay to protect my home and that perhaps it was made of a better, more durable material than other rubber mats.\n\nThe pros of this mat are that it is made of heavy duty rubber that won't shed. It is very dense and heavy, and it will probably last a very long time. The mat was not as elastic as I expected (I can barely cause any depression when I pinch it between thumb and index finger), but its weight made me hopeful  I thought that the high mass alone might absorb and dissipate most of the vibration. There is a strong \"new tire\" odor, but I followed the advice of other reviewrs and was able to eliminate it by letting the mat sit outside for about 6 hours.\n\nI cut the mat to size using a measuring tape, metal straight edge, chalk and a box cutter/utility knife. Like another reviewer noted, scissors will not do the job. You need to slice the mat along the same line (against a straight edge) over and over again, in layers, until the knife finally breaks through to the other side. If you use this technique, your cut will be perfectly clean and straight.\n\nGetting the mat under the stacked washer/dryer was a bit of a pain. You can't just fold the mat, tilt the machine to one side, slide the folded mat under the raised legs, and then tilt the other way to unfold. The mat is so thick that it doesn't fold flat enough to fit under a tilted machine. You really need a dolly or some serious human lifting power, depending on the space your washer/dryer is in.\n\nI just did my first wash load on the new mat and was utterly disappointed. Somehow, the mat has made the spin cycle vibration worse. I'm not sure how this is physically possible, but the ears and eyes don't lie  after all of the expense, cutting and lifting, my upstairs master bedroom window actually vibrates worse now. And the railing on my stairs has now started vibrating with the spin cycle.\n\nI plan on troubleshooting and experimenting further, but it's hard to articulate here just how disappointed I am. I took a risk on a product that had few reviews and I paid the price. I've lost about $90 on a sub-par product that I can't return because I've already cut it up. In fact, unlike other anti-vibration mats on Amazon that are pre-cut to the footprint of a typical American washer/dryer, the strange, large size of this mat makes me wonder if the seller designed it this way in order to prevent returns.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4556, "id": 471162, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 584, "len_tokens": 707, "text": "I bought this freezer last summer and it started acting up before the warranty ran out. Called the home improvement store that I bought it from and they stated that I needed to \"Call the manufacturer\". Turns out HAIER also manufactures Holiday. Called them and told them what happened and they did not dispute the claim whatsoever, This was May 15th, 2013. You would think it would be settled by now (July 5th, 2013), right? Wrong!! (If you knew me, you would know that I have been on the phone with these folks constantly and this is a summary of the \"best\" of the interactions I have had. And these conversations were initiated by my phone calls, they only called me if I demanded an update; otherwise, they just left me hanging and wondering.) Between \"We are looking for a repairman in your area\"-apparently there are none and \"We are still looking for a repairman\"-apparently there still are none to \"We can't find a repairman so we are sending it up to account executives to see what they want to do with it\"- insert crickets chirping here because for 2 WEEKS they had no answer on what they were going to do! Well, they come back with \"We can't find a repairman so we are going to replace it\"-cool right? Not cool-first I am told that it is summer (no duh!!) and they are busy replacing ACs under warranty and that is more important than my freezer, yes the chick on the phone actually told me that! Then they finally decide they don't have anymore freezers like mine in the warehouse. So throughout this whole process, I told them over and over \"Just send me a check and I will go to the store and buy the one on the floor there.\" So then they decide they are going to wait and see if one \"shows up\" on their inventory. I assume they were trying to round one up from who knows where. Finally, they decide to replace it with a comparable model, if I accept that substitution, which I did a week ago and guess what? I got a call (that I requested) from the latest account handler, there has been a different one for every one of these interactions! And she stated that she sent my approval up last week with no answer from the person who can authorize the shipment of the new freezer. Still not authorized. So I calmly and clearly told the latest girl on the phone that no slam on her and I appreciated what she had done but it was no longer a case of IF I was giving HAIER a bad review ANYWHERE I can (Better Business Bureau, Facebook, Word of Mouth, etc) but was now a case of just HOW bad it was going to be and if they had just mailed me a check like I suggested OVER A MONTH AGO, I would have nothing but good things to say about them instead of all of this bad. She calls me back in 2 minutes-2 MINUTES, and it has been authorized and that was Wednesday and it HAS NOT SHIPPED, but latest word is we will have it by July 12 (update, delivery date changed to July 16th). Yea, right I will believe it when I see it in my yard. MORAL of this story-Don't buy HAIER or Holiday freezers, ACs, etc unless you have plenty of time and patience to give away!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4557, "id": 471635, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 602, "len_tokens": 715, "text": "I found this product on Amazon but ended up having to buy it direct through Global appliances/Rangehoodstore.com because I wanted the chimney cut to a custom length of 20\" due to a short ceiling.  When placing the order, I requested that they send everything that was needed for a ductless installation since this is part of a remodel and there's no way to duct this hood without significant cost. They told me I had everything I'd need. I researched ductless installations and watched installation videos so I'd be prepared.  When I got the hood, I realized they didn't send me an air deflector to direct the hot, humid air out of the grilles in the top of the chimney.  I checked their installation manual and, sure enough, the manual stated that I should use the air deflector to direct the air out of the grilles in the chimney. So, I emailed them to say I was missing parts. They claimed I didn't need that part.  Every installation video and manual (including theirs) that I looked at for ductless hoods use an air deflector to make sure the hot, humid air goes out the grilles and not up into the ceiling.  I quickly realized why they didn't tell me to purchase the deflector - when they cut the chimney down to 20\", they did so in a way that put the grilles below the blower so there would be no way to use the air deflector to push the air out of the grilles.  I contacted them and explained that I was very concerned that hot, humid air would be going right up into our floor joists (your ceiling will have a hole in it when you install a hood - the hole is for the wiring to come down and for a support system to be installed to hold the weight of the hood).  I've read on numerous sites that no one should ever vent the air from a kitchen hood up into the floor joists or attic.  If the air is greasy (if we forget to change the carbon filter soon enough) it could be a fire hazard.  Humid air in the floor joists could lead to mold, etc.  I asked to exchange the chimney for one with the grilles at the top like in the drawing they show here on Amazon so I could use the air deflector shown in the installation manual. By the way, the installation manual stated that if the directions for air exhaust were not followed, the company would not be responsible for any damage so I really wanted to follow the installation instructions so as not to void my warranty.  They, initially, agreed then emailed me at the last minute to say I'd be fine as is.  I haven't heard from them since.  So, basically, they left us with a hood that does NOT look like the drawing you see here on Amazon that has the grilles on the top so the air deflector can push the air out.  So, beware if you need this hood custom cut. I asked them if NT Air knew they were telling buyers to ignore the installation instructions and let air go up into their ceilings.  They assured me (insert laughter here) the hot air would not go up into our ceiling but sink down to the grills and I'd have no warranty worries.  The moral of the story is, once they have your money, they'd don't seem to care how well the product will work for you.  So, if you need the chimney height modified, buy elsewhere.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4558, "id": 474035, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 619, "len_tokens": 761, "text": "Our house was built late 90s with GE profile appliances. Being conscious about environment, we follow a rule of not replacing an appliance until it is broken. Recently, our dishwasher went broken with very bad noise coming out of motor.  The problem is we have an opening of 33\" and the dishwasher is about 3/8\" dropped below the floor.  So, even though there is enough height inside, it is impossible to put most dishwashers (over 33\") in without opening the counter. We looked at all the models of GE, Maytag, LG, Samsung, etc etc and couldn't find anything that has adjustable an height. Eventually, a sales person at Sears quietly told us we should look at Miele in another store.  This turns out to be a great idea.  Miele European model can adjust from 32\" to 34\" with almost same capacity like their US model. It is a lot more expensive but we figure one of these days we need to remodel our kitchen and we want to buy something that we can keep in the future kitchen. It is very nice that we didn't have to wait for long time to get an EU model.  The installer came in and was able to cut the old GE out and installed a new Miele.  Here is what we have seen:\n\n1. Miele allows installer to raise the front two supports easily and the entire machine is raised at the same time.  This let the installer make a perfect fit to our space. Smart engineering!\n2. Their front panel is hard to put on without a professional help because it comes in as a separate piece so that customers can customize it to whatever they like.  Great designs but there are many small things you have to take care properly.  Our installer is certified Miele dealer.  They had no issues.\n\nWe have used the dishwasher for a few weeks.\n\n1. Absolutely easy to use and dishes come out very very clean.  Grease and dry good come out great. It definitely has more washing power than our old GE.  No comparison.\n2. Very quiet.  The only sound coming out is when it flushing water.  Even that is a lot less noisy than our old GE.  It doesn't seem like it flushes as much as GE. The motor sound is very low and very pleasing to hear (if you try hard to actually hear it).\n3. It doesn't have a heat coil like GE did.  We like it a lot.  It uses less power and it doesn't burn plastics if they are at lower part of the DW.  Also, less risk for getting burned. Dishes come out 95% dry.  if you simply leave everything there for another hour or something, it becomes almost 100% dry. We like this.  We usually start the DW before going to bed. In the morning, everything is dry anyway.\n4. It doesn't use the overflow thing that our old GE used. For my old GE, there were a few times that water came out of the overflow to our wood floor when drainage was slow in the kitchen.  Miele doesn't use this.  It detects when slow drain is detected and just stop.  This is smart!  We noticed may new appliances still use overflow.\n\nBecause we used the certified Miele installer from the dealer, they gave us one extra year warranty plus the original one year.\n\nVery expensive (2-3 times more $ than we originally wanted to spend) but we are very happy to have it.  In fact, we may go with other Miele appliances since their \"simple elegant style\" is a better fit for us than a more aggressive \"I am expensive\" Viking type of appliances.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4559, "id": 474589, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 539, "len_tokens": 708, "text": "I have a cheap second refrigerator in my garage; it's branded \"Costco by Whirlpool\" and built in 1999 in Mexico.\nRecently the refrigerator compartment wasn't cooling... spoiled milk was the first clue. This was in spite of the fact that the freezer compartment was fine.\nI knew that if the compressor was bad it probably wouldn't be worth repairing this old fridge BUT it probably was OK since the freezer was working. Given the age of the refrigerator I was reluctant to call out a repairman when the meter is at $75-100 when they first show up. So I Googled \"Whirlpool refrigerator not cooling\" to see if I could get any hint as to whether or not it was liable to be a big problem.\n\nMUCH to my surprise I found a lot of really useful information including several very helpful UTube tutorials. These videos provided trouble-shooting tips and detailed disassembly instructions.... once I opened up the freezer compartment (not at all difficult) it was clear from the hidden ice buildup that the defrost cycle wasn't working and that the ice was blocking cold air from the refrigerator compartment.\n\nSeveral of these videos pointed to the automatic defrost system as the likely culprit and specifically to the bi-metal defrost thermostat.  This thermostat is a simple on-off switch designed to keep the defrost heater from getting too warm and defrosting the food in the freezer compartment.  One video even showed a test procedure to verify whether the defrost thermostat was faulty (involves a multi-meter and a glass of ice water, but a AA battery and a flashlight bulb would have worked). Sure enough it looked bad (and failed the test) so I went to the local supply houses to find one. They had generics in stock but those lack the clip-on feature. The delay for the clip-on part was four days and the cost was $35.... I could have gotten it just as fast and much cheaper through Amazon&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Whirlpool-2321799-Defrost-Bimetal-for-Refrigerator/dp/B004XLEH38/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Whirlpool 2321799 Defrost Bimetal for Refrigerator</a>. The only \"skill\" required to install the thermostat was stripping the wires and applying wire nuts and electricians' tape (see UTube if you want detailed how-to help with that).\n\nWhile I was in there I noticed the fan motor was wobbly and somewhat sticky and thus seemed likely to fail soon. The fan motor is $65 from my local suppliers so I ordered this guy from Amazon. It was easy to install with my newly-found expertise at removing the freezer parts and fit perfectly... probably a 15-minute chore to replace.  It works without wobbling and is very quiet and smooth turning. Everything good except my worrying.\nWhy worrying? The vendor delivered the part to UPS within 24 hours of my order but the UPS tracking system said it was going to take 16 DAYS to get here.... from CA to WA!! I kept checking and the UPS system kept reporting 16 days. It actually showed up in 5 days (three working days, which is normal UPS Ground from California), so it was all about faulty UPS reporting not any actual service problem.  But if you were waiting for it to repair your main refrigerator it sure could cause some stress.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4560, "id": 475419, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 611, "len_tokens": 734, "text": "I want to be fair and update this.  I phoned the Avanti customer service line and I have to say, I have never had a better, easier experience than the one with the Avanti representatives.  The call took less than 10 minutes, and I had a service call phoned in and ready to go.  Within the week my machine was looked at, and repaired, by a local authorized service person - thanks Pete.  The issue with the machine was as a result of my floor being uneven - because of the uneven floor I was told I needed to put in less weight or even the machine's distribution.  Further, the clanging sound was due to a loose metal button which had come off of a pair of jeans.\n\nI have since run 3 loads of laundry and have not had a single issue.\n\nI want to therefore go on record as saying, this machine, and the company which puts it out and stands behind it, is excellent and I cannot recommend it enough.\n\n________________________\n\nI wrote the below in May, but since then I have suffered the reality that good things do NOT always come in small packages.  My machine has stopped operating as during the cycle it continually resets itself - further - it sounds as if something inside has broken free (like a screw of some kind).  I have tried to contact the retailer I bought it from but to no avail - I am NEVER goign to order anythign big from anyone besides Amazon again.\n\nI will update this after I have resolved the issue (one way or another) but in the meantime - wish me luck - I think I'm going to need it!\n\n________________________\n\nI have always rented apartments in New York, and as any renter can tell you, laundry day at the laundromat is a nightmare.  Typical trips to the laundromat require a commitment of up to 4 hours, where you fight for machines, stand by waiting for dryers, try to drown out the sound of screaming children and blaring radios, while praying that the person who used the machine before you practice good hygeine.  As bad as all of that is, add to it the thread of someone stealing your clothes when your back is turned, folding even your most private of delicates in public view and worst of all - the looming threat of bed bugs.  Finally, one day, I decided I could live like this no lnoger.\n\nThe Avanti 21\" Portable Machine has saved me from the nightmare.\n\nI was at first sceptical that this small machine, designed for apartment type living, would ever be able to give to me clothes clean enough, or loads big enough, to make me happy ... but I am happy to admit that I was wrong.\n\nThe Avanti 21\" is a powerful machine that allows the user to customize the number of rinse cycles, the length of the spin cycle, and the length of washing.  It has preprogrammed settings for delicates through heavy soil - although I find that the normal cycle is ideal for my laundry needs.  Although a small machine it can handle a large load fitting 3 pairs of men's jeans, 4 t-shirts, a number of socks and undergarments and a couple of towels.  My boyfriend and I have been quite comfortalbe doing one load a week of clothing, and another with towels and the miscellaneous oops forgot this items.  I have washed my comforter and had it come out clean, smelling fresh and pretty well spun.\n\nI give the Avanti my very first 5 star rating, and cannot recommend it enough.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4561, "id": 475522, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 624, "len_tokens": 738, "text": "I wish there was any other place to vent my frustrations about Thermador and their substandard products in an effort reach a broader audience.  Their customer service department has no desire to help and their owners manuals do not provide the right specifications for maintenance and repair.\n\nI purchased a 36\" 6-burner range in October 2014 and when they installed the range it was not working. The install crew could not diagnose the problem and I had to wait for a service technician - he was 2 weeks out.  He came to the house and diagnosed the problem as a shorted \"main board.\"  It took 4 weeks for the part to come in and we were without an oven that entire time.\n\nAfter the main board was replaced we continued to have problems.  The service tech was sent out several time and the main board replaced every time.  We had problems with the oven not heating, the whole unit not powering on, gas burner valves that would not activate, and sparking modules that wouldn't work.  All these issues were at different times on the same unit. Finally after a year of issues with our range they replaced the unit with an entirely new unit and it's been the same issues all over again.\n\nThe latest and greatest is an issue with the light bulbs.  Apparently you have to replace both at the same time, regardless of which bulb is burnt out because they are apparently wired in series.  I checked my owners manual and it said to buy 10w, 12 volt G4 base halogen lights.  No one in the city of Austin, TX sells these bulbs.  The only place I could go is Amazon or Thermador.  I refused to pay their obscene prices for the bulbs and delivery so I ordered on Amazon.\n\nThe bulbs I ordered had specification listing the exact size of the bulb and pins which was listed as the standards for G4 bulbs.  The product was highly rated and so I purchased a 20-pack.  (The factory bulbs have only ever lasted a month at best and were changed whenever they would come out to replace the main board, so I figured I should order a large pack.)  The bulbs I received were the correct size according to G4 bulb specifications but would not fit in the oven.\n\nI called Thermador and they said they would not help me since I did not buy the bulbs from Thermador.  I was transferred to a supervisor who was super rude.  He would ask me a question and cut me off before I could answer.  I told him (without profanity) to quit interrupting me and he said he would hang up on me if I talked back to him again so I was forced to deal with his incessant interruptions.\n\nI have never been treated so rude by any customer service rep, let alone a supervisor.  The entire 2-year experience has been a nightmare and I wish they would just come and take the range back.  What's worse is that I encouraged my brother, when he built his new home, and my parents, in their new home, to install Thermador ranges.  BOTH have been replaced because of the same issues.  Their experience with Thermador service has been no better and they have decided to let the appliance retailer we purchased the ranges from deal with the customer service department because they are so intolerable.\n\nThermador does make a great product when it is working but those moments are short-lived and the joy of cooking with Thermador is fleeting.  Beware if you are purchasing a Thermador and I would suggest that you look elsewhere and avoid the frustrations of owning any of their overpriced appliances.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4562, "id": 476325, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 644, "len_tokens": 761, "text": "ORDERING\nSo we finally got this in our kitchen after a battle with shipping.  I won't downgrade the item because of the service, but let's just say I ordered the item on September 14, 2014 with an expected arrival date between then and September 23, 2014.  Even though the item showed in stock after ordering I received an email from the company HCost stating it was backordered.  Long story short I got $100 off of the item for our troubles and received the Double Oven October 16, 2014.  (Also, the company would not take the packing material with them even though it states that they will.)\n\nINSTALLATION\nWe have laminate flooring so we weren't worried about scratches, but if you have wood I would be very careful as the item is very heavy.  The instructions were written well enough and I was able to wire the Oven myself.  One thing to pay attention to is that on some sites the electrical stated for this item ranges from 15 Amp to 50 Amp and 110 Volt to 240 Volt.  Once I received the instructions it had both 110/240 30 Amp listed.  The mistake we made was that our electrical and propane were on the wrong sides.  We couldn't really fix that now, so we made do with some longer lines.\n\nLP Conversion was a breeze although the propane company initially said it had to be done by a certified plumber so i had one come over and watched what he did.  If you can screw in a light bulb you can do the conversion, the oven comes with everything you need.  What the plumber didn't or wouldn't do was adjust the burners on low so that they were actually low.  So after he left the instructions state turn the burner on to low and pull knob and adjust screw.  No pictures so I Was flying by the seat of my pants on this one.  The problem was I started with the center burner.  One screw is pretty impossible to turn down as the valve or whatever displaces the head of the flat head only allowing you to do a quarter turn.  I spent an hour trying to ge it to work before I gave up.  There is another screw in this one that turns the simmer down to actual simmer, this one and the other burners were a breeze to adjust.  The handles were extremely difficult to pull of and I kept thinking i was going to break them.  I saw in another post that they said the handles were cheap, the outside is plastic, but where the valve meets the handle was metal for me.\n\nDouble Oven\nWe have used both sides of the oven and find that pre heating the small one takes longer than I would have expected, but the light does eventually come off.  We have not had any issues with baking as of yet.  There are a multitude of programs that the ovens can do, but all we have used is bake and convection bake so far.  I am sure I will pull out the book and see what the others are for.\n\nCons\nYou can't see the clock or the knobs without stepping back and bending over because of the overhang on the burners.  Also, my wife has a problem with while using the burners up top she will be stirring or something and will inevitably push the handles of the burners in causing them to tick -tick because it is trying to start.  Not a big deal just don't lean into the oven.\n\nThis is a small list for now - but if you want a sharp looking stove without killing the bank then this is your choice.\n\nI have had the oven for a short period, so if antything else comes up I will update the posting.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4563, "id": 478350, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 561, "len_tokens": 705, "text": "Just bought and installed this Bosch dishwasher. I discounted the handful of negative reviews on Amazon and checked the reviews on Consumersearch.com (best DW overall), ABT (there were 26 reviews with average of 4.2 stars out of 5) and Sears (55 reviews with 3.5 out of 5; and both Sears and ABT were $100 less than Amazon.) So far, very happy with product and performance but will update this review if things change. Dishes get clean. Glasses are crystal clear. Period. With our last DW, we had to wash first, then put in the DW. To test the new Bosch, dried on food dishes put in without prewash, come out clean (although baked on pizza on a pizza sheet did not \"wash\" off in DW). Dishes come out dry, excepting the occasional plastic, Tupperware type product. As the physicists can explain, plastic just doesn't conduct heat very well, so won't dry as well as metal and china. It is very, very quiet, but not \"silent\" as others have reported. When running, the sound is subtle enough in the background that I know it's running, but we are happy with how quiet it is and can have a comfortable conversation in the kitchen when the DW is running. The most noise comes from the water being discharged into the garbage disposal, not from the DW itself. We like the flatware trays and don't really have any complaints with the rack designs. Another reviewer complained about the racks coming off the rollers. It hasn't been an issue for us, but again goes to design quality where DW no longer have attached racks that pull out, instead using rolling racks that rolling on the open DW door. Also, if the DW is not installed level and properly anchored, there will be operational problems and problems with the racks not coming out correctly/squarely and the racks rubbing the sides/gaskets. Others complain about it not drying, not cleaning, not rinsing or smells. We have had NO similar, negative experiences, but again, improper installation will give rise to some of these issues.\n\nCons: As noted by others, build quality isn't the way DW used to be made. Plastic, plastic and more plastic. Twenty years ago, I was a lot younger and stronger,  and DWs were so heavy I could not lift one by myself. Now I'm a lot older and I can lift this Bosch by myself with no effort. And when did they stop making DW 24\" deep? If the DW was 24\" deep instead of 20\", it would hold a lot more dishes/pots. I guess that went the way of 1/2 gallons of ice cream. If Bosch spent another dollar or two they could affix the sound insulation with adhesive so that it stays in place during the installation process, but this is a very small thing. Plastic feet are probably a good thing to reduce sound transmission through the floor.\n\nHow long it runs without problems, unknown yet.\n\nUpdate: 1/26/15. Thus far, absolutely no problems and still love it. Still almost silent operation and still gets dishes clean (however, you must not neglect to add the dishwashing aid solution when the indicator light comes on. For reasons I don't understand, without the rinse aid, dishes aren't as clean.) Would definitely buy again.\n\nUpdate: 1/16/17 Four years later and still love it! No issues.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4564, "id": 478394, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 643, "len_tokens": 724, "text": "UPDATE: I have downgraded my rating to one star. The reason is it leaves soap film on the dishes. We first noticed this when filling a just cleaned glass with water. Bubbles formed around the glass at the water line. At first we thought that it was air in the water but then we noticed that when we tipped the glass there was a soapy film. We were using the Bosch recommended products including the Finish rinse. We thought maybe the Finish rinse was leaving the soapy film so we let it run out and didn't refill the rinse container. We let it operate without rinse for about 30 days to make sure all the rinse was gone. The problem persisted. We then tried white vinegar which is recommended as a substitute rinse aid by many users. This did not help. The only way we have found to get rid of the soapy film is to run a complete wash cycle using no detergent. They then come out clean with not soapy film. I don't know what the health consequences may be from ingesting what apparently is dirty soapy rinse water left on the dishes but we have chosen to double wash.\n\n__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________\n\nI bought this to replace an aging GE. Our house has an open floor plan design and the dishwasher is located about 7' feet away on the opposite side of bar from where we sit to watch TV. We always had to crank up the volume when running the dishwasher so we were looking for a quite one. The salesman said we would be able to stand next to it while it was running and not hear it. That is an exaggeration but the Bosch is definitely quiet and we don't have to crank up the volume on the TV when it's running. It also cleans well and unlike some other reviewers I've not had a problem with wet dishes except for plastic dishes and containers and it's no worse drying those than our old machine. I do use the recommended Jet rinse so I don't know how well it would dry without it.\n\nNow for the negative stuff. I knew going in that the capacity would be smaller than our old dishwasher but I didn't think it would be as small as it was. It seems to have about half the capacity of our old dishwasher however I'm sure it's larger than that. It handles plates very well as well as typical drinking glasses. However it has a hard time with larger mugs, over sized pots and pans, long utensils like spatulas and long handled spoons or any other large dish, bowl, or container. With just two of us I used to be able to wash dishes once every couple of days. Now it's pretty much every day and I find I'm washing more things by hand because their large or unusual shape doesn't allow them to fit in the dishwasher along with a days worth of regular dishes.\n\nI can't comment about the lack of a built in disposer. I've checked the filter several times and it has always been empty but I don't put anything in the dishwasher that has any large pieces of hard food attached.\n\nI honestly don't know it I would purchase it again. I might look for a large capacity American made dishwasher that has good reviews for being quiet as well as cleaning dishes. My research turned up a couple but they were several hundred dollars more than the Bosch. Considering the price I hope it lasts longer than the GE it replaced and until such time as it does fail I'll just do dishes a little more often.\n\nI probably wouldn't recommend this dishwasher to a family with children at least not without fully explaining it's limitations in terms of capacity.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4565, "id": 478401, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 624, "len_tokens": 757, "text": "We've had this dishwasher installed for about a year and a half now.  I did extensive research before settling on this model.  The only thing I occasionally wish it had was a short cycle for parties or when I'm just running lightly soiled or dusty dishes from my pot rack...the short cycle is available on the next tier up of Bosch models at a higher price point.\n\nThe tines are spaced pretty close on certain parts of both racks, but I have thick-ish pottery dishes that come clean even when placed in the narrow tines.  I must admit that it took a bit of time to work out the best configurations for my dishes, and I found a few tricks months into owning it (there are a few tine rows that fold down and make some larger dishes possible to wash).\n\nThe cycles are rather long (120-140 minutes), but this model is designed to be very energy efficient, and drying time is factored into those times.  Yes, I will have water standing in the recesses at the bottom of overturned cups when the cycle is finished, but when the cycle timer beeps, the dishes are too hot to handle for more than a few seconds.  I've also learned to pull the bottom rack out and jiggle the top rack to spill out the hot water caught in the bottoms of glasses.  From what I understand, the drying cycle does not use forced air, but rather uses the loss of heat in the stainless tub to draw condensation from the air and dishes inside.\n\nThis machine comes with some of the features of the next tier of Bosch's dishwashers, like the convertible silverware rack, flip-tines, and the RackMatic adjustable upper rack.  The top rack is super-easy to adjust up or down even when full of dishes, and when it is in the upper position, the clearance in the lower rack is enough to clear a larger cookie sheet.  I have loaded this machine to the gills and rarely have a dish not come clean...usually only burnt-on gunk needs to be hand-scrubbed.  I found a comparison table somewhere on Bosch's website that lists all of the models and their features.  Also, being a German company, they have comprehensive photos/diagrams in the manual that outline dish placement to get the full 14 place-settings stuffed inside.\n\nAnd it's so quiet!  It kind of sounds like a gentle rain is falling outside--even when I'm standing next to it, I sometimes have to look for the LED indicator to make sure it's running!\n\nI also like that the controls are hidden when the door is closed, giving it a sleek look under the counter.  If I need to add a dish shortly after the cycle has started, or to check the time remaining on the cycle, I pop the door slightly so that the water stops spraying, then open the door...all water will drip into the interior.  Speaking of water, Bosch's have a leak proof basin under the tub which will catch the full water capacity of a wash cycle in the event of a leak, thereby saving your flooring from a flood in the event of a failed seal.\n\nI can't really knock this dishwasher for anything.  Still in love with saving all of those hours in front of the sink doing dishes!!  I even fearlessly hosted Thanksgiving after installing this!  You can search for the great price (690 pre-tax delivered!) I got on this posted somewhere on Gardenweb...I believe the promotions I used are still run periodically.  Trust me, I did the homework.  This will be the best bang for your buck and last you for years longer than the cheapo $300-400 dishwashers at the big-box stores.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4566, "id": 478747, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 557, "len_tokens": 725, "text": "We bought this Kitchenaid dishwasher 11 months ago and it suddenly started to leak from the bottom.  Quite a bit of water got into the sub-flooring before we realized what was happening.  Some damage was done to the downstairs ceiling (water stains, soft spots, etc.)  Water also got into one of the light sockets and the bulb started sparking so we shut off the power to the area due to fire concerns.  Later, we noticed some water had seeped onto a shelving unit doing some damage to the items stored there.\n\nAfter we shut off the water and power to the damaged areas, I removed the kick plate from the bottom of the Kitchenaid and had a look with a flashlight.  There was no leakage coming from the install points (water supply and drainage hoses) which told me this was not an installation problem.  However, I noticed squeeze type pressure clamps on two of the dishwasher's connection hoses.  These are not the types of clamps (in my opinion) that should be used where water is involved.  I would use quality clamps where the pressure could be set with a screwdriver.  I also noticed a part of the dishwasher (motor or pump I thought) sitting on the floor apparently detached.  It looks like this dishwasher may have some design flaws but clearly there have been some cheap parts used in its construction.  I was quite shocked.\n\nWhirlpool was very supportive and apologetic on the phone but said we would still have to wait 2 weeks for service.  Because of our concerns about the poor build quality of this unit, we've decided to take the next 2 weeks while waiting for service (and doing dishes the old fashioned way) to look for a better machine.\n\nOur biggest question right now is once the dishwasher is \"fixed\", will we be able to trust it?  What if it leaks again and we aren't home?  Being able to sleep at night is more important than the $1,000 or so we spent so we will consider this (and the cost to repair the damage to our home) the cost of tuition to learn about Whirlpool / Kitchenaid.  A lesson learned, albeit an expensive one.\n\n----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------\n\nUpdate - the service technician finally showed up today.  Here is his report - \"11/27/13 11:30: RN there 27 WED, 11:07 to 11:25, Checked over unit.found clamp came off the motor and wet the motor shorting motor and control.ordered parts from marcone., ordrd 1 w10328224 (sump and motor assy) and 1 w10473198 (control), saved tckt [SdLink\\'46491a.png] (via SDM)\"  I asked him about the clamp coming off and he said it was a \"common problem\".  We are now waiting 10 business days for the new motor and control (and hopefully a better clamp?).  When it's back up and running, we'd like to sell it.  Anyone want to buy a 1-year old refurbished Kitchenaid dishwasher that couldn't possibly leak again?\n\n----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------\n\nFinal Update - Decided to see if the dealer would help and sure enough they did.  We worked out a deal to our satisfaction and have just installed a new Miele Crystal.  I was impressed with the German engineering and the specs.  The Kitchenaid is gone so the bad news is it's not available for sale but the good news is we have peace of mind.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4567, "id": 481160, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 658, "len_tokens": 799, "text": "I just got this dishwasher and there were some website filled with positive reveiws and others that had nothing but poor reviews, but since I needed a new dishwasher ASAP I needed something acceptable that was in stock locally that I could get that day and this one met those needs.  First, I had a fairly large GE that had racks that were 21\" square and I didn't want to go smaller.  This one is a 1/8\" smaller, but is considered a 15 place setting dishwasher.  I prefer buttons on the front but like I said I needed one quick so I couldn't be too picky.  My husband was doing the installation and that was pretty easy if you are at all handy.  The only two issues we had on istallation.  The first was that our countrtops are granite so we had to opt for side installation and there were no intructions for that (although if you buy a special kit they are enclosed). Also, we ended up lowering it a half inch more than suggested so I could better see the hidden buttons.\n\nSo, some of the negative reviews mentioned this washer doesn't clean well.  Our sales person told us unless it was set to high temp wash it wouldn't clean well...something to do with most water heaters not being set high enough to break down dishwasher detergent so it can clean.  So we used the high temp wash with heated dry and our dishes were clean but they were wet, wet, wet, particularly the plastics.  So the next time, I set the wash to not only hight temp wash, but also chose sani-rinse (which is a high temp rinse), plus heated dry.  On that wash, I not only had clean dishes but also dry dishes, including dry plastics.  The only exception to the dry plastics was the one container that had a divet in it that acted like a mini pool, so there was still a little water on that one.  All the plastic cups with bottom rims were dry.  In general, I am happy with this washer and the only reason I knocked one star off is that I think I shouldn't have to use every high temp setting to get clean dry dishes.  I am guessing that most of those people who are unhappy with the cleaning and drying didn't have a salesperson to give them a heads up on the most effective settings.  I know had I not been told, I would have just washed on normal wash, and not have added high temp, or sani rinse.\n\nUPDATE - DEC 26, 2012...I had my mom and sister visiting and my sister convinced me to do some test with some super hard to clean to items, like a totally gunked mac & cheese casserole dish, an oatmeal bowl from breakfast that had been allowed to sit all day, and my mothers dried up metamucil glass.  I only agreed to forego my thorough rinsing because she agreed to clean it all if the dishwasher didn't get it.  Well, the dishwasher got it all off no matter how awful the dish looked going in. So now I just scrape the extra food out of pans and off the dishes and put them in, and they come out perfectly clean every time.  I still get a little bit of water on some plastics (not nearly as much as my old dishwasher) but using the sani-rinse and heated dry really helps keep the wetness to a minimum.\n\nUpdate - Dec 31, 2011...Uh oh, I had a load with very wet plastics while my husband was out of town.  Ends up he was popping the door open after the wash was done to let the steam escape, resulting in much dryer plastics.  I didn't do that and had wet plastics.  So another hint, pop open the door after the wash.  Still very happy with this dishwashers cleaning power.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4568, "id": 481229, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 595, "len_tokens": 739, "text": "I bought this dishwasher at ABC Warehouse, last month. It was on sale for $404.10.\n\nPros: SUPER quiet, solidly built, \"anywhere\" silverware basket (I keep ours on the lower rack, NOT the door), indicator to see the rinse aid level, indicator lights indicating what part of the wash cycle the dishwasher is in.\n\nCons: \"Anywhere\" silverware basket, rack tines aren't meant to be adjusted, no just rinse option (That I have yet discovered).\n\nOk so the first thing I would like to emphasize in my review is how unbelievably quiet this dishwasher is; so quiet, in fact, that after we installed it, we kept going up to it and trying to \"hear\" if it was running or not!  The only true way you can hear it work is when it drains the water. And the only noise you will hear is from your sink, NOT the dishwasher. So it gets A+ in the sound department. IMO, it is a strong competitor to Bosch and the other virtually silent high-end dishwashers.\n\nSo moving on, I should disclose Ive had the dishwasher a month. However, I am quite the dishwasher aficionado. Buying this appliance was a VERY involved process for me, in fact I believe the salesman at ABC Warehouse truly believed I was mentally ill, as I had to come and \"look\" at the dishwasher 3-4 different times before I actually committed buying it, lol.\n\nWith that being said I never thought I would dislike the \"anywhere\" silverware basket - but after using it once or twice, what a dumb thing. On the door, my silverware didn't seem to get the exposure to wash water and detergent like it does on the rack, so I removed it from the door and placed it on the lower rack. I notice my silverware doesnt have that weird smell now, like they did on the door. I recommend moving the basket. The silverware basket holes for the silver ware are also an afterthought - if you have thick handled silverware, you are going to have to flip the top of the basket and place the silverware in directly.\nThe racks are very well build and do not feel cheap. The tines aren't meant to be bent, but I was able to easily move one. The controls on the front are easy to use, and the indicator light will let you know what stage the dishwasher is in. There isn't a rinse only option, that I have read about or discovered yet, bummer. I really liked that feature in my last dishwasher. Guess I missed that in my research!\n\nWhirlpool recommends Cascade Platinum tabs, they even give you two of them as a promotion with the machine and I did go out and buy some, however I find that Cascade liquid works just as well if not better. Downside- the liquid leaves stains that look like hardwater stains. Vinegar takes it right off.\n\nWhen Whirlpool promises you can fit 15 place settings into the machine, or whatever their wild promise is, they aren't making things up. The lower rack is HUGE and will seriously fit 15 plates easily. The upper rack fits most cups nicely.\n\nLast but not least, the stainless tub seemed thinner than my last Kitchenaid. Either way, dishes ALWAYS come out dry (I use the non-eco heat dry option & sani-rinse) and the plates and glasses are piping hot at the end of the wash.\n\nAll-in-all, I strongly recommend the Whirlpool WDF750SAYB. For the price, you aren't going to find a machine as quiet and flexible.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4569, "id": 482250, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 621, "len_tokens": 793, "text": "Dual fuel? Check.  Double oven? check.  5 burner? Check. Nice look? Check.  Well, looks can deceive.\n\nFor the money it is very poor performing.  The thing that I find utterly unacceptable is that the oven can not hold temperature.  That has screwed up countless meals over the last 2 years.  I thought I would adapt, get to know it's quirks...nope.  Once it is at temperature and the door is opened and closed to place food inside, it does not automatically sense the temperature change to reheat the oven back to temp.  That is a basic, fundamental oven function that it can not do!.  So here is my work around.  I set the oven for 350 deg. The digital output will show it climbing up to temp.  It beeps that it is ready. I place food inside.  I turn off the oven, then immediately turn it back on, setting it at 350 again.  It shows the temp is down to 320 or so.  Then the oven will heat back up.  If the oven is not manually triggered it will linger at 320 or so. This happened last night, my husband did not know the trick - to what he thought was 30 minutes at 350 for a casserole ended up too low a temp to cook and brown properly in 30 minutes so when I boosted the temp to get it too cook, it was pretty dried out and ruined.\n\nAll the convection features will burn and dry out and ruin anything you put in there. I researched and tried all the tricks and the foods that are suppose to work \"great\".  Nope. Food and time wasted.\n\nThe oven probe feature -  I never use that either.  When the probe reaches the temp you want it turns off the oven. But it is usually underdone because the probe is metal so it \"cooks\" the meat around it in a roast.  So then I have to turn the oven back on, reset the probe in another hole, and iterate 2 more times. What a waste of time and effort!  I prefer to manually check with my external probe so I can adjust the time and doneness without the hassle of the oven turning off each time.\n\nThe burners.  I like the front 2.  The middle oblong burner is weak.  I thought I could put a roasting rack on it instead of across  two burners but it is too weak to work well.\n\nBottom oven - I like this but it takes 30 minutes to come up to temp. but it does cook more evenly for shallow items that the larger oven.\n\nSo with the GE oven such a failure, I have found I use my nice Breville toaster oven so much more now.  It comes up to temp quickly and accurately, it keeps itself at temp, cooks evenly. (At 10% of the cost of this dual oven)  Instead of cooking a 13x9 casserole and saving leftovers.  I make 2 8x8 casseroles so I can cook them in the Breville. One is cooked, then the second is cooked while we eat.  I stopped making mini-muffins entirely.  They were uneven burnt and dry. Always.  I stopped cooking cookies on sheets, unless I make 1/3 more to account for all the dried and nasty ones.  I opt for bar cookies in the Breville now.  The list goes on and on.\n\nBottom line:\nI intentionally avoid using my oven if I can. BTW I am an experienced, attentive epicurious-style home cook of 20 years.  This oven has ruined more food in the past 2 years, by far, than what had been ruined in the previous 18 all combined!\n\nI wish I did not get this oven.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4570, "id": 482836, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 673, "len_tokens": 745, "text": "Please do yourself a favor and do not buy this range. I wish someone had told me all of the reasons you will hate this range. First of all it is seriously over priced. I owned this stove for approx 4mths when the real troubles started. I did not buy my stove from this company. There is only one big element. It looks like there is two but in reality there is only one. You pretty much have to cook everything on 8-9 or high, anything lower was just a simmer. The piece of metal that runs across the top above the knobs scars at nothing. My husband sat a pizza pan on the top and it was part way resting on the metal, he used the pizza cutter while holding the pan with the other hand and just the slight movement looked like he took sand paper to it. The knobs look great being on the front but in reality this is a real pain as grease and food drop on them while cooking, there is no way to avoid this and also no way to clean behind the large ring that the knob fits in. The knobs themselves can be removed for cleaning but the base cannot. There is a gap between this ring and the stove which food gets in. We had  a accident involving pancake batter being dropped on one of the knobs and I could not get it out. I tried a tooth pick, I tried laying a wet cloth on it to soak it and it simply could not be removed. The touch screen on the front looks nice and works great but is super sensitive. It works like the touch screen on a iPhone, iPad etc. It is not one you push you just barely touch it. It is made of glass. On one occasion the oven was cut on just by rubbing against it and on another occasion I went to  get dinner out as the timer was going off only to discover the oven had been cut off and the food was still raw. Everything else was done but the main course was raw chicken....not good. You would really hate this setup if you have small kids. The oven drawer is a joke it takes forever to heat up and only has one element resulting in burned food, also as we all know oven drawers seem to attract dust bunnies even if it is barely ever opened. The final straw was the piece of metal above the knobs developed a bulge in it for unexplained reasons. Because of this bulge the rubber gasket that fits between the glass top and the metal started to work its way out of the slot. I pushed it back in only to have it back out inside of a week. GE sent out a repair man who ordered a new part, when the part came someone had attached the gasket on the wrong side of metal piece making it unusable. I got a second part shipped UPS when I opened the box it had a used parts  in it with food on it and no rubber gasket. The gasket problems resulted in electrical problems where moisture was able to get between the glass top and the metal piece. This is where all of the electrical parts are located for the knobs. This resulted in the oven thinking the door was not closed and the oven will not come on until the door is closed. It would just keep saying please close oven door. I would open and close the door until finally it would recognize that the door was actually closed. After nearly 3 months of dealing with this mess the place I bought the stove from brought me a new stove. I lost approx $300.00 by doing this but I was just happy to have this nighmare out of my house. The only thing this stove has going for it is that it is pretty. Stay away.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4571, "id": 483042, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 624, "len_tokens": 738, "text": "I wish there was any other place to vent my frustrations about Thermador and their substandard products in an effort reach a broader audience.  Their customer service department has no desire to help and their owners manuals do not provide the right specifications for maintenance and repair.\n\nI purchased a 36\" 6-burner range in October 2014 and when they installed the range it was not working. The install crew could not diagnose the problem and I had to wait for a service technician - he was 2 weeks out.  He came to the house and diagnosed the problem as a shorted \"main board.\"  It took 4 weeks for the part to come in and we were without an oven that entire time.\n\nAfter the main board was replaced we continued to have problems.  The service tech was sent out several time and the main board replaced every time.  We had problems with the oven not heating, the whole unit not powering on, gas burner valves that would not activate, and sparking modules that wouldn't work.  All these issues were at different times on the same unit. Finally after a year of issues with our range they replaced the unit with an entirely new unit and it's been the same issues all over again.\n\nThe latest and greatest is an issue with the light bulbs.  Apparently you have to replace both at the same time, regardless of which bulb is burnt out because they are apparently wired in series.  I checked my owners manual and it said to buy 10w, 12 volt G4 base halogen lights.  No one in the city of Austin, TX sells these bulbs.  The only place I could go is Amazon or Thermador.  I refused to pay their obscene prices for the bulbs and delivery so I ordered on Amazon.\n\nThe bulbs I ordered had specification listing the exact size of the bulb and pins which was listed as the standards for G4 bulbs.  The product was highly rated and so I purchased a 20-pack.  (The factory bulbs have only ever lasted a month at best and were changed whenever they would come out to replace the main board, so I figured I should order a large pack.)  The bulbs I received were the correct size according to G4 bulb specifications but would not fit in the oven.\n\nI called Thermador and they said they would not help me since I did not buy the bulbs from Thermador.  I was transferred to a supervisor who was super rude.  He would ask me a question and cut me off before I could answer.  I told him (without profanity) to quit interrupting me and he said he would hang up on me if I talked back to him again so I was forced to deal with his incessant interruptions.\n\nI have never been treated so rude by any customer service rep, let alone a supervisor.  The entire 2-year experience has been a nightmare and I wish they would just come and take the range back.  What's worse is that I encouraged my brother, when he built his new home, and my parents, in their new home, to install Thermador ranges.  BOTH have been replaced because of the same issues.  Their experience with Thermador service has been no better and they have decided to let the appliance retailer we purchased the ranges from deal with the customer service department because they are so intolerable.\n\nThermador does make a great product when it is working but those moments are short-lived and the joy of cooking with Thermador is fleeting.  Beware if you are purchasing a Thermador and I would suggest that you look elsewhere and avoid the frustrations of owning any of their overpriced appliances.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4572, "id": 483962, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 653, "len_tokens": 776, "text": "After much research, I bought this GE Induction range to replace a perfectly good traditional gas range. Since it's induction, I had to replace my well used and well maintained anodized aluminum cookware with new multi-clad stainless cookware and install a dedicated 220V line as well. So I'm well beyond just the purchase cost of this range. But I can say that I love using it. I know it won't really pay for itself since electricity is more expensive than natural gas where I live. But, I also live where it gets very warm, okay really hot and humid in the summer and I hated turning on the gas range to cook. I know the old adage \"if you can't stand the heat, get out of the kitchen\", only I like to cook and I was looking for a practical way to reduce the heat load in my kitchen. This range is perfect for that. It only heats up the pan and what is in it, so that there's no excessive heat build-up. Though I haven't yet experienced the full blast of summer heat yet, I can tell already that cooking on this range is a much cooler proposition than cooking with gas. Perhaps it's the better insulation from my older gas range, but the electric convection oven also manages to keep more heat inside the oven space. Of course, when one opens the oven door it can steam up my glasses, but if I have something in the oven, it doesn't radiate heat everywhere.\n\nSo, why only 4 stars? Well, it's the ceramic range surface - it scratches like crazy. I'm a bit of a picky guy, so I try to keep things well maintained, but in spite of my best efforts, the top is already showing excessive scratches. I have followed GE's recommendation and use Cerama Brite on it, and it does shine the surface nicely, but the scratches are still visible.  I haven't used any rough bottom pans, and there isn't any sharp instruments, knives, etc. on the surface but it still managed to pick up a nice sharp round scratch that probably came from my very new Circulon pan (which is made for Induction cooking). How it happened remains a mystery, but if you're the kind of person who likes everything shiny, then you will be spending a lot of time trying to keep the surface from picking up hairline and deeper scratches. Because it's a slick surface, it's too easy for the pan to move off of it's center on the magnetic core requiring two hands to do simple tasks like flipping an omelet. Coming from gas, I'm used to shaking the pan which isn't a good idea with induction. If the range isn't making contact with the base of the pan, the magnetic field is interrupted and the cooktop will shut off after a few seconds. One can still lift the pan, shake quickly, then return it to the range before the hob shuts off. I understand it's probably a safety shut off, but I do wish that there was a way for the owner to adjust the amount of time that the range allows you to break contact before shutting off.\n\nMy wife complains that the all electronic touch control panel doesn't always accept inputs requiring repeated attempts to turn on the oven, or adjust the temperature. I haven't really found that to be as much as an issue, though I have experienced a momentary lag in the range showing the proper cooktop setting.\n\nStill, all in all, it's a really wonderful way to cook - very fast and, with a little practice, very precise cooking temperatures. I kind if feel like I'm cooking in the Jetson's kitchen. Now if GE could just figure out a way to make the surface top a little more scratch resistant, I'd be giving it 5 starts for sure.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4573, "id": 484025, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 604, "len_tokens": 704, "text": "How this made the Consumer Reports reccomendation is kind of weird. I have had very good luck buying appliances and goods based on their reviews. I bought the gallery series stove in stainless six months ago. I bought them for a house I bought to remodel. The Gallery series looked good but I would never buy the series again. The diswasher had such terrible reviews I went a head and returned it for a Whirlpool that had high reviews and we are happy with it. The Stove and refrigerator are both nearly worthless and I would NEVER buy them again.\n\nThe stove has little plastic tabs on the bottom of the grates that melt and also fall off way to easily. The space between the interior glass and exterior glass has vents that allow dust to enter and you can't clean it. When the sun shines in during the morning all you see is a glass door that looks very dusty but you cannot get in there to clean it. TERRIBLE design! The \"convection\" fan sometimes never comes on when it is supposed to and other times it comes on after a few minutes after it comes to temp and other times it comes on right away once to temp. Which is it supposed to be Frigidaire? The top is very hard to clean compared to a ceramic flat top but I do like the burners.\n\nThe refrigerator is another joke. Food keeps freezing on the bottom shelf and on the top shelf in the back left corners. I kept adjusting the temp up but the other items like milk and soda were getting to warm. I used my Thermopen(Purple one works best..Inside joke for Competition BBQ teams) and the milk on the front center shelf was 41.2 F while the chicken breast on the bottom shelf was 26.4 in the back and 39.1 on the front breasts. Terrible air flow! Next problem is the ice maker/water dispenser. The ice tray is crooked because they installed the track it slides into crooked. No way to fix it easily so we have to live with a icecube tray that looks like it is going to break. The water comes out horribly slow. I am talking a minute and a half for filling up a 20 oz cup with ice. The ice cubes are now getting hollow. it also stops working for hours on end. Sometimes it takes the icemaker 6-8 hours to dump one cycle. other times it happens about every hour or so. I just heard it dump (which is LOUD!)and it dumped during dinner 1.25 hours ago. Maybe will dump in a hour maybe 8, we never know. All we know is that it is 15 f outside right now and we don't use much ice in winter but we still run out every second or third day.\n\nThe microwave only problem is the vent fan is SUPER LOUD! I am talking LOUD! You can barely have a conversation when it is on. And with the gas stove/oven if it gets to hot under the microwave it turns on it's fan by itself so there is nothing you can do to stop it. It will go off by itself eventually, but that is usually half way through dinner! I have actually gotten into the cabinet above the stove and unplugged the microwave when we were ready to sit down so we could talk durring dinner.\n\nWe will be putting our house on the market later this year and I am looking forward to getting different new appliance in our next house!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4574, "id": 487051, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 569, "len_tokens": 726, "text": "I bought this washer (along with the matching dryer), less than 3 years ago. At first we thought it was a really nice set and were excited to have a \"nice, very expensive\" set that would last us for years to come. Fast forward 2 1/2 years.  Our washer just stopped working.  We immediately called Whirlpool.  When we were on the phone with them, they gave us 2 options. We could pay a little over $600 to get the washer fixed, OR we could buy an extended warranty for $350.  No brainier, right?  Again, wrong. After buying the extended warranty (remind you, FROM Whirlpool), we set up an appointment for the service company to come and look at our washer.  3 days later he showed up and told us he needed to order 2 parts and would call us by the end of the week.  When the end of the week came and we did not hear from the service provider, we called them.  At that point, we were told that the part was on back order and we should call back in a few days to check on delivery. Long story short, after 4 weeks, no calls, unanswered messages and no washer, we started calling Whirlpool directly. Whirlpool told me that THEY have the part, and I could purchase it for $300 and give it to the service company (?!?).  I had already paid for the warranty and it should be covered. When I called the service company back and told them that Whirlpool had that part, they told me they \"didn't get their parts from Whirlpool\",  I asked again when the part would be in.  He told me \"it's on back-order, I have no way of knowing when it will be in\".  When asked him what else could be done, he responded \"What do you want me to do? Call Japan and have them ship the part faster?\".  Wow.\nAfter that experience, I called whirlpool back to let them low how I was treated by the service company that they sold me. Their response was \"we do no have any authority over them\".  I let them know that when they sell me a warranty, the company they sell me is a representation of Whirlpool.  Whirlpool disagreed with me.  Whirlpool told me they would only get involved with a claim after the washer had been broken for at least 60 days.  They also told me that a washer was not an \"essential appliance\" and I could always \"go to a laundry mat\". That was Whirlpool's solution. I could give many more details about bad service and rude treatment, but you get the general idea. Whirlpool does not stand behind their products anymore.  And, their products are not what they used to be.  Add to that the fact that I was treated very rudely by most of the associates I talked to from Whirlpool (even when I was able to reach a supervisor). Unfortunately, mine is not an isolated incident.  If you go to the Whirlpool USA Facebook page and click on \"posts to page\", it is FULL of irate customers who have new, broken appliances and NO resolution from Whirlpool.  Whirlpool is a pro at giving people the run-around, not responding and passing the buck.  I will never by another Whirlpool product again. Please, please do your research before purchasing a Whirlpool product of any kind.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4575, "id": 487056, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 567, "len_tokens": 724, "text": "Don't buy if you want clean clothes.  Let's dispense with the other reviews that want to complain about longer wash times or doesn't have this feature or that feature.  This unit sucks hands down.  I am a working mother of two toddlers.  I come from a Samsung front loader so I understand longer wash times, sometimes smelly ring, yada, yada, yada.  Those are all things that come with a front loading washing machine.  I have used this model for two months now and let me tell you - find something else!!!\nCons (lots of them)\n1)  Don't expect to get clean clothes.  I don't always have time to treat my children's otherwise disgusting dirty clothes.  However, I never have had to either.  My Samsung would handle two or three day old laundry no problem.  So naturally I expect a newer, more updated model to do the same.  NOT!  This thing can't even handle simple stains.  When I first starting noticing stains come through the wash I just figured I wasn't used to dialing the cycles in and would eventually get to the magic combination.  Even with steam this thing can't clean.  Even with pretreat this thing can't clean.  Even with the \"soak\" option this thing can't clean.  I am returning and going for another brand all together.\n2) Again I am a working mom and will usually put a load of clothes in the washer at night to then put them in the dryer in the morning.  The load smells terrible, even if I get to it first thing in the morning.  The \"Fan Dry\" option is a nice gimmick but only works if you have a very small load.  I could leave clothes in my Samsung for a night+day and not have the funk that's coming out of this Whirlpool only after a few hours.\n3) Clothes are not as soft.  Again this is something I noticed instantly but figured I wasn't using the right combination and would eventually dial it in.  Think again.  Even with fabric softener it doesn't help the softness or the smell as referenced above.\n4) Detergent dispenser makes a mess.  Once you load detergent into the dispenser it will automatically start to drain into the machine.  Regardless of whether the dispenser is shut.  Detergent will drain down onto the door and then into the ring.  But here's the thing.... usually I'm running through the house and notice something else that needs to go into the wash.  If you pause the cycle during the detergent unload and open the door, it will drip ALL over.  I never had this issue with my Samsung.\n5) Bigger drum doesn't mean bigger loads.  We bought a bigger size expecting to be able to handle larger loads, less time doing laundry - right?!?  Wrong!!  Forget about doing a larger load with this thing, it doesn't get it clean.  Even lightly soiled stuff won't come out clean.\nLike most moms I need stuff to work - the first time.  It's chaotic in my house and sometimes with the help of little hands, dirty clothes make it into the clean clothes pile.  I used to be able to tell right away that that's what happened.  But now with this piece of junk I can't...... I just sigh, take it back to the laundry, pretreat (maybe for a second time now), and rewash.  I don't have time for that.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4576, "id": 487264, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 662, "len_tokens": 784, "text": "Original review was 4 Stars:\nI like being able to open the right side and not having to open both doors to access the inside. Although, it would've been nice to be able to just access the left side, you can, but it's not as easy.  I like the interior lighting, kinda feel like my food is in a dhow room. I like the digital display, it tells me when to replace the filter, and gives me a decent amount of options to choose from such as keeping the light on for the dispenser.  No probs with the freezer, I like the top drawer slides with ease. In the fridge there is a bottom drawer, its a nice feature but I think I may have gone with a fridge that had this drawer to be able to be opened from the outside, as this drawer is accessed once both doors are opened.\nI'd recommend checking out a fridge in person that has this similar door feature and compare to other fridges with the door that can be accessed from the outside to see what you think, this is an expensive fridge and you want to make sure you like it.  Also, if you don't mind making your own ice, or don't use ice frequently like me, it would be more roomier to not have an ice maker or ice chest in the fridge. I'd be fine with making several trays of ice to keep in the freezer to save on having more room, but this isn't a complaint but rather a personal preference, no impact on this rating.\nI like how Maytag gives you 30 days to ask for a replacement for any issues, such as a dent or scratch or whatever, and their service department, the one that has come to my house many times is called Alliance Appliance, and they have been professional and fixed or replaced any issue within 30 days free of charge, even if I caused the issue to occur, such as when I dented the top of my dryer by accident.\nThe fridge is pretty noisy, really the only thing I don't like about it.  The noise is that bad for me that I would not have gone with this fridge, and would've spent an additional $1000 for one that isn't noisy, but I had no idea. It does go quiet, but when it gets noisy, for whatever reason, maybe to keep everything cool after opening it, it can be noisy for like 5 min, but then goes away till it gets noisy again. I haven't kept track of the cycles of when it gets noisy, but I did just time it after using the fridge, and the noise went on for 5 min then turned off, but hasn't gone back on and it has been 10 min, so this may just occur when I open it. And when it's noisy, and when I notice it, it is irritating. Maybe it's normal fro the fridge to get this noisy in order to do the cooling or whatever it's doing, my old Kenmore got noisy to, but it was a $400 fridge.  I just felt for the price of this one, I would think that this noise wouldn't really be that annoying. Maybe I'm wrong on this noise, meaning maybe most fridges have this noise, but just a little disappointed in how expensive it is, being over $2000, and having this issue, but it could be just my lack of education on fridges and experience overall, so if this is the case, then disregard my blabbing about the noise and make this a 4 or 5 out of 5, but until I am proven wrong this review will be a 3 due to the noise.\nBest of luck!\n\nNew Review: It has been 4 years and now the freezer doesn't freeze. What a joke. I'm single owner and only user. Now I need to get this repaired.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4577, "id": 488490, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 684, "len_tokens": 785, "text": "Ours looks just like this except it has a plastic tub, and it shares most of the same failings as mentioned in other reviews.\n\nTo get all dishes clean on Normal wash cycle, I use both the Steam option and the Boost Water Temp option. I would have expected to save the Steam option for occasional use but without it cleaning is not reliable. Boost Water Temp, I have read, is often needed on various dishwashers. In our case the pipe to the dishwasher from the water heater is along runI'll stand at the faucet for 30-60 seconds waiting for hot water to arrive. But use of these two options certainly increases both energy usage and time take to do a load. It is nearly 2 hours.\n\nI never use the heated dry option (to conserve energy and avoid damaging plastic things) and so I guess I cannot complain that when I open it after 2 or 3 hours things are still damp and water collects in concave items and on the top flat racks. I try to remember to open it when I hear it shut off if I'm still up, then leave it open for a couple of hours and things will be dry.\n\nMy pet peeve is the rinse-aid dispenser which seems to give no clue as to how full it is. The little window is dark all the time. So I have to periodically remember to open it and pour in the liquid carefully so as not to overflow it. This seems so simple to fix in the design process,and our previous one certainly had a visible indicator. We have hard well water and use Lemi-Shine rinse aid to lessen hard water spots.\n\nThe utensil racks are like the ones criticized by another reviewer: one part has separate slots for each utensil, though you can open the lid and put things into a small open cage. The part of the rack in front of the soap dispenser can only be used for short items such as paring knives since tall items will block the opening of the soap dispenser (which, btw, has only one compartment).\n\nI saved utensil racks from our previous dishwasher and use one to expand capacity (but it takes up space where 3 plates or other things could go). Probably I could relocate the dishwasher's own utensil rack, from its insecure spot hanging on the outside of the bottom rack, to standing in the bottom rack, at the cost of losing more space. More likely now that I am thinking about it, I will use cable ties to affix the utensil rack to the front of the bottom rack.\n\nFor our most-used dishes the bottom rack is not well designed and so I never end up running the machine totally filled with dishes on the bottom. If I did, probably the crowding would further reduce the cleaning efficiency. Now the items that don't get clean are mainly silverware.\n\nYes, tall glasses do fall over on the top rack unless something with a broader base or shorter height, like a mug, is put next to the last one. The manual said, as I recall, not to hold glasses up by putting them over the upward prongs, maybe because water force might torque them and cause breakage, so careful loading is the only option.\n\nIf manufacturers would pay more attention to comment pages such as these, they could no doubt make appliances that pleased users much more. Appliances are one very expensive purchase that you cannot test before buying!\n\nIf I listed PRO and CON, I'm afraid there would be no PRO section. I chose it partly because of the options for Steam and Boost Water Temp, which I though would be useful once in a while. Its poor performance makes them necessary each time to get reliable cleaning. I've never used the height-adjustment on the top rack but sometimes the levers get bumped causing the rack to lurch downwards. Oh, it is fairly quiet, I can say that, just to end on one positive note.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4578, "id": 489315, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 632, "len_tokens": 756, "text": "We ordered this washing machine after reading a glowing review on Consumer's Reports (top rated). Our previous washer (a Kenmore) would randomly stop mid-cycle, plus the clothes never seemed to really get clean (towels would smell even after they were washed) and shake the house on every spin cycle. Oh, and the front loader began to leak as well. That's when we decided to get this new one. Our Kenmore replaced a top of the line Maytag Neptune that had a severe mold problem exacerbated by a bad electronics board that would need replacing way too often. So hopefully the third time is a charm (yeesh!). So far, so great! Clothes are clean, cleaner than we've had in years. And the machine has a nice song to sing when the cycle is done. Like night and day. Fast, energy efficient. I really hope this one stays around working well for years to come!\n\nBut here is a great warning to you if you are considering to buy this washing machine on Amazon or some other web intermediary. Warning: do not to buy the machine through Goedeker's! What a mess. First of all they never stock the things. I'm not sure what they stock, but they never stock this washing machine even when they say it is in stock. They order it from Whirlpool only after they get your order. This adds a week or so to the delivery. And help you if you don't live in the mid-west because delivery will take weeks on top of that! 1st it's shipped it to their warehouse, then they ship it to JB Hunt shipping who then ships it to you for their \"white glove\" service. You'll get a notice from Amazon that the order has shipped when Goedeker's ships it to their intermediary. You get a notice from Amazon that it has been delivered when the intermediary gets it. Believe me you are not that much closer to getting it. Give it another week on top of that for JB Hunt to get it into their system and schedule delivery. And then when you get it at your door please make sure the item isn't damaged! The delivery guys unboxed our machine and the front was dented in. You certainly don't want that on a front loader! OK sent back after a month waiting for delivery. Called Goedeker's and had to go through the whole process again! No expedited delivery from these guys even after they tried to unload damaged goods! Long story short: same process, another month. On delivery the delivery people (nice as they were) dropped the damn washing machine by accident on the stairs outside my house. Bent the back. They had already taken out the shipping bolts so who knew what kind of damage lurked inside. Contrite shipping company said they would replace the machine. Another whole week later Goedeker's calls to refund and not replace. Their policy: if delivery fails twice they refuse to ship. Even when it's their fault. They are losers. Don't deal with them. We lost two months with their bad sad service.\n\nHere is Goedeker's motto from their website: \"Goedeker's Philosophy: We believe everything we do should be for the greater glory of God. Our priority is to serve our fellow man to the best of our ability. We want our customers to see Christ in us and in everything we do.\" Yeah, right. These guys are worthless and will waste your time. They want to play in the big time and can only play lip service. Jesus!\n\nI live in the NY area and called Drimmer's who had it in stock at a lower price and got delivery the next day. End of story. Let my travails be a lesson to you!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4579, "id": 494056, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 598, "len_tokens": 734, "text": "Letter to Consumer Reports:\nI bought this SAMSUNG RF266ABRS fridge because it was recommended by Consumer Reports  in August 2009. This fridge - and other SAMSUNG fridges - should be taken off the recommended list because there is an inherent design defect that causes ice buildup on the evaporator coils.\nFirst there is a rattling noise as the fan hits the ice buildup.\n[...]\nThen the noise stops when the ice completely blocks the fan but then there is no more cooling happening.\n[...]\nThere is even a class action lawsuit against SAMSUNG fridges:\n[...]\nPlease look into this Samsung ice buildup problem. The Samsung fridges should definitively not be on the recommended list but put on the \"do not buy\" list. The ice buildup issue occurs about 1 year after purchase. SAMSUNG is not acknowledging the problem and does not help its customers.\nLetter to SAMSUNG:\nI am deeply unsatisfied on how SAMSUNG handled the warranty policy with my SAMSUNG Fridge French Door Model RF266ABRS. This fridge was defective starting Year 1 and was not repaired appropriately the 1st time. All was done on the 1st service visit was to defrost the evaporator - not fixing the problem itself.\nOf course, the problem reoccurred 1 year later and every year after that. Since the technician explained the problem, how to solve it and SAMSUNG customer service gave me a hard time because it was a few days over the 1 year purchase date, I dealt with it personally by unplugging the unit and let it sit unplug for 24 hours. Not a satisfactory resolution, just a quick workaround, until I got fed up with losing food and asked for SAMSUNG to resolve this problem once and for all.\nFirst this problem should have been resolved the 1st visit. Secondly I learned recently from numerous complaints and videos on the web that this is a defective design in SAMSUNG fridges that causes the ice buildup on the evaporator.\nHere is a video showing the defrost sensor modification kit to fix evaporator ice buildup. This is for the SAMSUNG RSH1  fridge but it is the same modification that was done on my fridge by the repair technician who came to my house: [...]\nMany SAMSUNG fridges have the same cooling design thus sharing the same ice buildup issue.\nI was charged $104.68 to fix SAMSUNG own defective design! This is outrageous and no decent company would shift the cost from itself to their customers . It shows utter disrespect for its own customers, not counting the monetary damage. Sir, should I remind you that your customers are your most important assets and should be your priority number one!\nSAMSUNG should have done everything in its power to help its loyal customers by fixing its defective fridges FREE OF CHARGE.\nThe technician explained that he had to move the defrost sensor away from the evaporator in order to let the defrost cycle run longer and completely defrost the evaporator from any ice buildup. He also put a wider drain clip. The older clip was too small. It would get iced up and not let water drain away from the evaporator. There is also a new metal clip that attaches to the heating element and goes inside the drain clip to heat any ice there if needed so the drain cannot get clogged. In addition, a new seal kit - put on the market by SAMSUNG 3 months ago - was used to seal the evaporator compartment to prevent moisture to get in and improve circulation airflow provided by the fan.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4580, "id": 494987, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 605, "len_tokens": 712, "text": "This is my first review of this dishwasher after using it once 24 hours after installation. (A 2 month review is now included after my initial review)\n\nSo far, I really like it. I am giving it 5 stars.\n\nBefore you decide if this dishwasher is right for you, read reviews from Amazon and other sites (IE: bestbuy).\n\nThere is a concerning number of complaints from other consumers who purchased this dishwasher and similar models from Frigidaire.\n\nI chose to buy this dishwasher and hope for the best.\n\nAll of my kitchen appliances are Frigidaire Gallery stainless steel and no other brands match this line of appliances. So this is really my only option to have matching appliances.\n\nI previously had the model of dishwasher from Frigidaire that has the button panel on the top of the door instead of the front. THAT model is unspeakably terrible. The control panel or main circuit boars gets shorted by steam from the dishwasher. I paid  $800+ repairing that model 4 times in 6 years.\n\nMy first impression of this dishwasher (the new one that is replacing the old one), is that I feel confident with this purchase.\n\nWhat you should know is that many people have reported that this dishwasher will smell like burning while it is drying and there are even reports of fire.\n\nI can confirm that after 2 uses (the first run was to rinse chemicals from the factory) I can smell a very faint \"hot plastic\" odor as well as some strange musty chemical odor during the washing and drying cycles. The odor is so faint unless I was intentionally sniffing for it, I probably would not notice any odor or know that it came from the dishwasher.\n\nUse care when choosing an installer. If the dishwasher is installed improperly.... drains, water supply line, electrical wires, vent hoses,  etc. those can pose a fire hazard. From what I have specifically read on different consumer review sites, the fire hazard is often from the vent hose being improperly vented and installed when the dishwasher is installed. Make sure you have a frigidaire recognized company install it if there is one in your area. If not, call around to ask if they are familiar with this brand of dishwasher and explain the problem with this model that others have encountered from improper and careless installation.\n\nIt did do a good job washing my dishes, they are sparkling clean.\n\nIn conclusion, Frigidaire does have certain products that can be a lemon. Most manufacturers do have at least one \"flop\" of a product. Almost any product will have bad reviews, be careful when buying anything, read reviews and way the risk of purchasing anything.\n\nUPDATE 60 DAY REVIEW\n\nI use this dishwasher usually once or twice a day, and the faint odors stopped after a couple of weeks. I remembered to check for the odor a few days ago and sniffed it while it was washing and drying to be sure I did not detect an odor so I could report accurately that the odor had diminished and disappeared in time. Many new appliances will smell different and have smells from manufacturing and being in a box and such. So, the odor was temporary.\n\nThis dishwasher at this point is still dependable and doing a great job washing my dishes.\n\nI'm still happy and this was a great purchase for me and a much needed change from the prior \"nicer\" version from the Frigidaire Gallery line that has the problem with the key pad and/or control board being vulnerable to damage from water, vapor, debris etc.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4581, "id": 496094, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 635, "len_tokens": 735, "text": "As another reviewer mentioned, I have somewhat mixed feelings about this hood.\nThe hood itself is extremely powerful and relatively quiet. At the highest setting it is not as loud as our old broan under cabinet recirculating fan unit.(see my notes later on about noise level tips). We steamed some crab and cooked popcorn on the stovetop and this thing takes the oil smoke and odors away very well. (note proper installation height from the top of your cooktop to the bottom of the fan)\n\nIt looks very nice. The glass is a nice touch and will make cleanup nice and easy.\n\nAs others have mentioned installation is a pain and the instructions leave much to be desired. Here are my installation tips:\n\nMeasure from the top of your stovetop to the top of your ceiling, then subtract 30-36\" for gas range (I think electric might be a little less). If that number is less than 26\" then you will likely be looking at a more difficult installation. The problem we ran in to was that the stainless steel (SS) sleeve was too long to allow the mounting bracket to be mounted directly to the ceiling. This left me with 2 choices- take the SS sleeves to a machine shop and have a few inches cut off (and cut off length from the mounting braces) or install the mounting bracket up in the ceiling (in the attic). I opted for option 2, though in hindsight I may not choose that option again. Mounting it in the attic made it VERY difficult to secure the braces to the main ceiling mounting plate and take care of some of the other mounting/installation steps. There was a lot of up and down between kitchen and the attic which added a bunch of time to the install. I also will need to install some trim around SS sleeve, adding to the install time. Your ceiling may be high enough to allow a \"normal\" install, but just be aware that you may have to make some fairly major adjustments to the installation.\n\nA tip on reducing noise from the fan- Ditch the cheap plastic, slinky like connector that comes with the hood and use solid duct pipe (6\"). The slinky connector will NOT last and create turbulence for the air flow. It will also collect grease and in my non-expert opinion eventually become a fire hazard. In order to connect solid metal duct the first connection needs to be an adjustable elbow because the fan connection is not in the middle of the unit so you need a slight angle to get the straight pipe up and out to your ductwork leading out of the house. Also, make sure that you make your duct work leading out of the house as straight and short as you can. This greatly reduces the noise and improves the efficiency of the fan. Also note that make-up air starts to become a consideration when you're talking 800-900 CFMs that you're trying to move. That's a whole other discussion that most people don't even think about. But, if you're fan is not working efficiently I recommend that you research a bit about that.\n\nBottom line, for the price you get a TON of range hood. The CFMs are more than enough for most residential applications (if installed correctly). But as other reviewers mentioned, there is a price to pay with a difficult installation (especially for lower ceilings) and nearly worthless installation instructions. I would purchase again, but take more time on the planning of the install ahead of time.\n\nJust a note that I purchased this unit as a \"scratch and dent\" unit from an ebay seller for a little more than 1/2 the price and not from Amazon.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4582, "id": 496135, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 665, "len_tokens": 790, "text": "I read alot of reviews (on Amazon and elsewhere) on many makes and models, which led me to buying this washer (LG WT1201CW). In reviews I read people's most frequent complaint about High Efficiency (HE) washers seems to be they don't add enough water to cover the clothes. I found this to be true, seeing about 1/4 to 1/5 the height of the clothes being left exposed when beginning the wash cycle in a 'normal' mode. It seems strange especially when coming from a traditional non-HE washer (my old one broke down) that fills the tub enough to leave the clothes swimming in it. So for this new HE washer, what could I do to get more water in the wash cycle if I wanted it? I learned of a few tricks from others and from reading the manual/guides:\n\n1. The quick reference guide that comes with the washer says to hold the Extra Rinse button for 3 seconds and it will add more water. I'm not sure if this added more water up front (seemed like it didn't) in the wash cycle, but tapping the Extra Rinse button once or twice did add noticeably ore water in the Rinse cycle (it allows up to 2 increases).\n\n2. Start the machine, let it fill with water in the wash cycle. Shut it off. Start it again and it is tricked into thinking there is a heavier load (the weight sensor is what gages how much water the machine adds).\n\n3. Start the washer in 'bulk' mode, which is used for bulky stuff like blankets and pillows. In this mode a lot of water is added, like is done with a traditional (non-HE) washer. I did this with my usual clothes load and it was like I had my old washer back. This feature alone would make all those complaints about lack of water go away.\n\n4. Get a bucket of water and add it in with your clothes before hitting the Start button. This is easy if you have a wash sink nearby or another tap. You can add just enough water to top the clothes but even this extra amount will still result in using much less water than what you'd have by running in 'bulk' mode. You'd be semi-HE I guess.\n\nIf you find the machine's standard water-fill adequate, then by all means leave it alone because that is where you get your savings. Maybe having more water is only a placebo for those transitioning from the old traditional water-generous units. Then again it might not be.\n\nAs far as operation goes, I really like how quiet it runs, and it runs smooth with very little vibration. When vibrating it feels damped, and this is probably due to the excellent suspension system this machine seems to have. When installing the machine it's best to make sure it is as level as possible. You can use the legs to adjust each corner. The basket should look centered. I used a level to check it and the bubbles were centered even with the basket visually slightly off center. So its good to eyeball the basket too and try to perfect the level. I found it worth the extra effort.\n\nAnother tip I was told is that in HE machines you use very little soap and fabric softener, like 1/3 of what is used for a load in traditional washers. I reduced my usage this way and the clothes came out clean and fresh.\n\nFinally, it is very worthwhile to read the manual even though the machine can be used intuitively. The manual tells you how to optimize its performance for the various types of fabrics out there. Or, you can keep it simple and run it like your old washer by using 'bulk' mode for everything.\n\nI gave this LG washer 5-stars because it works great and it shouldn't be penalized for annoying 'water efficiency' that is mandated by the US Government.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4583, "id": 497569, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 565, "len_tokens": 702, "text": "If you are in the market for the best washing machine that money can buy, the LG WM8000HWA draws more praise from both experts and consumers than any other available washing machine just pray you don't get a defective unit and have to deal with LG customer service or lack thereof.\nConvinced of our decision after extensive online research, we ordered our LG WM8000HWA from Amazon.com in April 2015, and it arrived without blemishes 19 days later.  The washer started working flawlessly, but, within five regular loads of laundry, it started producing a loud rattling noise that consistently intensified throughout the spin cycle.  Although sleek and intuitive, Smart Diagnosis on the LG mobile app was unable to identify the problem.  The manipulations recommended in the owners manual troubleshooting chart were also ineffective.  Exactly 30 days after the washers arrival, we called LG customer service at 1-800-243-0000.  After exhausting the customary technical support protocols, the telephone representative referred us to an authorized LG technician, who came to our house on June 2nd.  The technician could not reproduce the noise while running the empty washer in test mode, but, after watching a cell phone video of our malfunctioning washer, confirmed that the noise was abnormal and decided to consult with the LG engineers in Huntsville, AL.  On June 9, the technician came back out to test the washers motor and verified that it was working appropriately.  However, that time he was able to reproduce the noise and determined that it was a faulty bearing, for which he scheduled another repair appointment and warned us that he would have to essentially rebuild our washing machine.  Following an off the record recommendation by the technician, who agreed that the problem with our new washing machine constituted a major defect, but was unwilling to put his contract with LG at risk by stating it in writing, we called LG the next day.  We spoke with Leroy Ritchie, a supervisor in the executive department, and suggested that the early onset of the problem and the extent of the necessary repair warranted the replacement of the washer with a new machine.  However, he adamantly asserted that, to abide by the warranty terms, LG was only compelled to send the technician and accomplish the repair.  Therefore, after having to reschedule due to replacement parts that arrived damaged from the factory, on June 25 the technician performed a 3-hour repair, replacing the rear outer tub with bearings, the rotor assembly, the stator, and the inner basket tub assembly, at a $781.40 cost to LG.  The original rattling noise is less apparent after the repair, but only because it is now obscured by a symphony of new noises and vibrations that reverberate throughout the entire house when running a laundry load.  Consequently, we immediately contacted the technician, who referred us back to LG.  Now, after several calls to LG, three visits from an authorized technician, and an unsuccessful repair priced at 75% of the washers value, we are waiting for another technician to assess a problem that started less than a month from acquiring the top washing device on the market From our meticulous online research, we certainly expected more from LG.\n\nUPDATE (07/18/2015):  After submitting this review to Amazon.com and the BBB site (it was rejected from the LG site!), LG contacted us to replace our faulty washing machine with a new unit.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4584, "id": 497621, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 535, "len_tokens": 768, "text": "I have been living it cheap apartments for a long time, so having my own washer/dryer was never really possible due to lack of hook-ups. I'm 1) too cheap, 2) too lazy, and 3) have a rambunctious toddler so going to the laundry center or laundromat was like getting dental surgery. I initially bought a $75 twin-tub model&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Giantex-Portable-Mini-Washing-Machine-Gravity-Drain-Compact-Twin-Tub-7-7lb-Washer-Spinner-Furni/dp/B06XKDYD4S/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Giantex Portable Mini Washing Machine Gravity Drain Compact Twin Tub 7.7lb Washer Spinner Furni</a>&nbsp;where you had to wash, then manually move over and spin, then rinse, then manually move over and spin... It worked but it was a pain in the behind. When that finally kicked the bucket (because I am awful, awful, awful about overloading the machine) I decided to spend a little more and get this fully automatic portable washing machine. You guys - seriously. Get this thing if you need a washer. I'm soon going to be moving to an apartment that DOES have washer/dryer hook-ups and this works so well I'm planning to continue using it. It does 3-4 days worth of clothes for me and my son in 1 load. I can wash my full size sheets at home. It washes towels fine but I don't do that often because I dislike hang-drying towels. (I have not tried comforters or blankets in it.)\n\nA couple of things to look out for:\n1) If you need to move this often (say, you're hiding it in a closet when not in use because you're not supposed to have it, coughcough), buy the recommended furniture dolly. Those wheels are laughable.\n2) The included \"quick adapter\" kinda sucks. There isn't really a way to have both that AND an aerator on your sink. Plus, it's very long, so if you don't have an unusually high faucet head, it's gonna get tough to wash your hands. I bought a diverter and a plumbing-to-garden-hose adapter and installed those on my shower head. When I need to use it I just push a button to switch the water flow through the diverter and screw on the hose.\n3) Don't... don't try to drain this into a bathroom sink. There is too much water pumping out of the machine too quickly and you are likely to flood your bathroom. I rest the drain over the tub.\n4) The power cord isn't comically short, but it was way too short for the way my bathroom is set up. You will probably need a 2-foot or so extension cord unless your outlet is right next to your water source/draining location.\n5) Lint. This machine is very convenient in that it is fully automatic and functions just like a full-size machine, but if you're hang-drying, you should expect some lint on your clothes. It was also slightly less effective at spin-drying than the twin tub machine I used to use. Clothes still air-dry indoors in roughly 4-6 hours or overnight.\n\nI'm so pleased with this machine and it has made my life a million times easier. It was a little more than I wanted to pay, strictly speaking, but if we're going by the rates I'd have to pay at a laundromat, it's already paid for itself. Just buy it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4585, "id": 501160, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 624, "len_tokens": 763, "text": "Aesthetics:\nSo very eye pleasing with no controls that can be bumped or but not reset by a passerby. With two curious American Bulldogs, that was a must.\n\nThe slate finish doesn't show finger prints. I LOVE my stainless steel. I don't love a stainless steel dishwasher.\nI cannot tell you how many time I would open the dishwasher with wet finger or greasy fingers and bemoan that I would have to clean it YET  AGAIN. It actually was a ritual, keep as many dishes in the sink, load the dishwasher 1 time before running it, clean the dishwasher, unload it, clean it again. I could pull my hair out.\nThe finish has completely alleviated that frustration. No more dishes in the sink either!\n\nFeatures: the top rack can actually accommodate my full size day to day dishes!! Seriously. Granted they are light weight and in some cases plastic, I can get so much in this thing, it's incredible.\nThe top basket easily maneuvers to either accommodate those dishes on the top or slides up to let me put in a full size cookie sheet.\n\nI really love the sanitize feature as well.\nIt almost feels like appliance abuse, but if we use our dishwasher for more than dishes (make sure dishwasher or autoclave safe)\nMy rose pruners get sanitized in this, nail clippers, scissors, anything that touches either plant or person that can be sanitized goes in here. As a super nerdy chick, I had to see if sanitized was really sanitized. To that effect, I put my nail clippers in, and swabbed them after the cycle. The swab was swabbed into some agar and set to let grow what will be there (it's like the middle school experiment where you swabbed your school desk to see how gross it is)\nGuess what. No contaminates grew after 48 or 72 hours.\nThat's really sanitized!!!\nThe wash cycle can be set to either the top or bottom only which adds convenience for those little loads.\n\nThe entire interior is stainless steel, not plastic, which means, it won't readily absorb odors. This is both good and bad.\nGood: you know of your dishwasher is clean because it doesn't smell\nBad: you've never had a dirty dishwasher smell and this REEKS to high heaven and you don't know how to make it stop stinking.\n\nHere's the solution to that \"bad\". In the bottom of the tub is an easy access filter that with a 1/4 turn comes out. Rinse that thing off (I do it everytime I wash) and pop it back in. Poof! Smells are gone.\nIt's not time consuming and I treat it like the lint filter in my dryer. It's easy when that's your mentality.\n\nHook up was very simple and this unit, unlike many others, comes with a new drain hose.\nYou WILL NEED a elbow connector that is not provided. A quick trip to lowes with the manual and they plucked one off of a nearby shelf. They are well aware of this as MANY new units need it to install.\n\nHow quiet is 48 dbs?? The manual says its like hearing the rain outside. Great because the rain is only ever one volume... It's like a gentle rain or the printer in the adjacent office working that you o lay hear if the air conditioner is off. It really is very quiet. So quiet that I actually made my husband pull it out because I heard the water dripping down the drain and thought the unit was leaking.\n\nMy favorite little part: the \"all done\" chime. Like a sweet little song, it chimes that it's done and the light that was once orange (depicted in my pictures) is now green.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4586, "id": 501936, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 641, "len_tokens": 746, "text": "Why is it that the ability to fix a fridge that kept freezing up here in the office is more impressive to my colleagues than the work I actually get paid to do? Bloody engineers... Regardless, it rescued a perfectly good 4 year old fridge from being tossed out.\n\nSo, three things* that can go wrong - the heating element can be burned out, the thermostat can have failed, or the timer / control board may have failed. Once you have determined which it is, then order the replacement part.\n\n*Actually, there are more than three things, but these are the most typical fail points if your cooling system is functioning properly and your door seal is in good shape.\n\n>> Remember to unplug the fridge before doing any diagnostics unless you like getting shocked and possibly permanently damaged or killed. <<\n\nThe heating element is a simple ohm check with between 30 and 50 ohms typical of a good element. Infinite resistance means a dead coil.\nThe thermostat is also simple to check. Unclip it  from the coils and use a continuity tester and a cup of hot and one of ice water - It should switch open after soaking for a minute in the hot water and switch closed after a minute soak in the cold. If it doesn't, replace it.\nThe timer / controller is a bit more tricky, but if the above two things are good, then you'll need to do more research than this review can provide.\n\nI suggest starting your diagnostics work in the evening, because the coils will probably be a massive chunk of ice that will need to thaw out overnight. Also, the drip tray will probably not hold all the resulting water, so a few strategically placed towels (vinyl flooring) or a baking sheet placed under the tray (wood flooring) may keep you from discovering a large puddle in the morning. You'll need to empty your freezer, pull out all the brackets, shelves and ice maker, to get to and remove the back sheet covering the evaporator coils* in the freezer. For this, you'll probably need a 1/4\" socket, and slot and Philips screw drivers. If you are lucky, you'll be able to get to the heating element (at the bottom of the coils) and the wires running to everything will not be embedded in the ice. If not, put all your frozen food in your cooler chest along with a bag of ice, prop the freezer door open and go to bed.\n\n* Have a care not to nick or puncture those coils, so don't go poking with an ice pick or screw driver to \"speed things up.\" If you do, things just got really expensive. Better to let the ice melt naturally with the freezer door propped open. Use a hair dryer on low setting if you are in a hurry.\n\nSo, you have access and have done your diagnostics and determined it is the thermostat,  Congratulations, you've already done the hard work. It took you longer to get to the thermostat than it will to replace it. Now, put the coil cover/back sheet in place and load all your food back into the freeze, then plug the fridge back in - it will keep things cold while you wait for the thermostat you just ordered to arrive. Once it arrives, you'll need to have two butt end crimp connectors or wire nuts handy along with a wire nipper/stripper. Simply cut the wires close to the old thermostat, strip the the insulation back and connect the new thermostat in place of the old one. Clip it back to the coils, tuck the wires out of the way of the fan and put everything back in place.\n\nSee, you too can impress those around you with your mad fridge fixing skills.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4587, "id": 502939, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 532, "len_tokens": 711, "text": "This is a terrific washer and I couldn't be happier with the choice.  Here's why...\n\nAbout 5 years ago, I purchased my previous washer -- an LG front-load washer, which produced mediocre but acceptable results in cleaning my laundry for the first 3 years.  Then I began experiencing the \"negatives\" of owning a front-load washer, which you can read about in the reviews here:&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/LG-WM2016CW-Front-Load-Washer/dp/B000OGS2OG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">LG WM2016CW Front Load Washer</a>\n\nWe limped along with our previous washer for about 2 years until its inadequate capacity, time-consuming maintenance demands, and abysmal cleaning ability prompted us to take advantage of some good sale prices to replace it.\n\nThis is why we chose this washer:\n-Impressive 4.8 cu ft capacity.  Only comparable one larger was a GE model that was 40% more expensive for another .2 cu ft.\n-Made in USA\n-Time-tested brand with prolific parts and maintenance support\n-It's a top loader! For me, this means no crouching down with my 8-mo pregnant frame to retrieve clothes, no locking bolts to store in case the washer must be moved, no fecund mold colonies populating (and staining) the door seal, and it is ACTUALLY child-proof, unlike my LG.\n-High efficiency, low water usage, energy star rated.\n\n  Some tips to help you decide if this is the washer for you:\n  I read MANY reviews on this (and similar items) on several sites, and I noticed there were many spectacular reviews and many viciously negative reviews, with few in-between.  Most of the highly rated reviews stated it was important to read the manual, while none of the negative reviews I read mentioned they had followed instructions in the manual while encountering whatever aspect of the machine they judged to be substandard. I'm not sure if this was the determinative factor of user satisfaction, but nevertheless I made sure I read the instructions, and all of my loads of clothes have come out clean and fresh. I have not had a problem with wrinkles that some people mention, and I make sure to set the machine for the type of fabrics I'm washing.\n  This washer is incredibly quiet.  I have heard it buzz a bit once when it was rebalancing a load of oddly matched items, but usually I have to open the door to the laundry room to see if it's still running.\n  It is a tall washer (and dryer).  If you have a storage shelf above your existing W/D, consider the height of these items in your planning. I have a shelf than can be folded up to retrieve clothes, but I think I'm going to end up moving it, because (per the instruction manual, again) the washer lid should be left up to allow the wash tub to dry.\n  It's a small feature, but I like the light in the wash tub. It lets me find all the baby socks in the bottom of the basin, casts a nice glow in the laundry room, and shuts off automatically after a few minutes.\n\n  In summary, I have no complaints about this washer to date.  If I encounter any points of interest, I will be sure to update this post at a later time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4588, "id": 506011, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 668, "len_tokens": 766, "text": "I bought this range hood because our old one did not move enough air to keep asthma symptoms from flaring when we were baking or cooking meat on the stove top.  The Kobe hood did move a lot of air - although not enough to prevent kitchen smells diffusing through the house.  Our problem, however, was with an annoying high-pitch noise (intermittent but frequent) that I thought sounded like a bearing in the motor.  I contacted Kobe's service department and, as requested, provided them a recording of the fan running at different speeds to produce the noise it was making.  The Kobe's service rep then advised me that the noise was that the two fans were imbalanced, and he sent me two new ones with instructions to install them.  After I installed the new fans, it sounded OK at first, but soon started making the same high-pitch noise.  The service rep suggested that I check some other things, but these seemed to be beyond my abilities so I asked for a service technician to come out and fix the problem.  Kobe had a local appliance repair firm send out a technician, who said almost immediately that both fan motors had bad bearings.  Kobe sent the repair firm two new motors, and the technician came back and installed them.  However, these new motors were making the same noise that the old ones did, and the technician called the Kobe service department and left them a message to call him.  Kobe did not call him; rather, they contacted me to make some additional recordings, including some video and send it to them.  After several days delay, they did contact the service technician saying that they had tested the new motors before sending them along.  Apparently, they tested them at only the highest speed, which was not where the noise presented a problem.  At the highest speed the fan and rushing air made enough noise to mask the problem sound coming from the motors.  By that time - more than six weeks after the fan had been installed - I was debating with myself on whether I wanted to continue struggling with this Kobe fan or to take a monetary loss (by then the return period for Amazon had been exceeded) and buy a different range hood.  I decided that a range hood that gives me this much trouble when it is brand new could be a long-term struggle with little to no satisfaction.  I sent an email to Amazon asking what my alternatives were for this faulty product I had bought through them, and they replied that although the return period had already been exceeded, I could return the range hood and get most of the purchase cost returned.  Accordingly, I bought a new hood from Amazon, in part because the local dealers either did not carry the model of Broan hood I wanted or would have to special order it.  This experience cost me a couple of months and about $150 of the purchase price (presumably the cost of shipping the return) in addition to about $250 for installation.  So, now I have a new range hood that is virtually identical to the old one that I got rid of when I bought the Kobe, and it moves about 450 cfm at high speed.  I recommend that you think very hard whether or not you want to take the risk on a Kobe hood if you're inclined toward buying one because it could cost you, as it did me, a lot of time and money in the long run.  I emphasize that my dissatisfaction is directed only toward Kobe, particularly their service department for not working more closely with the service technician they hired to resolve my problem rather than sending instructions for additional actions that I could take so they could second guess the technician.  I am happy with Amazon's role in this affair because they were willing to reduce my loss on the faulty product from Kobe.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4589, "id": 506231, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 591, "len_tokens": 758, "text": "Currently, there are seven 1-star reviews. . .and no 5-star reviews.  So I guess my five-star review will be the first.  Im not sure if the other reviews are for a different model or what the situation is.  Mine is for the WM3050CW.  I know for a fact that this is the model that I have.\n\nFirst of all . . . It should be noted. . . I see on the Amazon listing that it shows steam wash.  The WM3050CW does NOT have steam wash.\n\nA little background. . .. I purchased this LG washer to replace an Asko washing machine that I had.  The one thing that I liked more about the Asko is that it uses only cold water, and then it will heat the water to whatever temperature you want.  Of course thats not the case with LG.  It uses the water from your hot water heater.  But the Asko tub was quite small.  Asko is also VERY expensive.  Finally, its nearly impossible to get someone to work on Asko machines, and I live in a large city (Atlanta).\n\nIve been using my LG WM3050CW for about 8-months and I LOVE it. . . and heres why:\n\nThe tub is HUGE!  I joke with my friends that you could almost fit an elephant in it!  I actually do laundry less frequently because the tub is so large, I don't have to.\n\nAgain. . . speaking of the large tub. . . I do bulky items like a down comforter with no problem!  There is even a bulky setting!  No longer do I have to go to a commercial laundry to do bulky items.  FYI. . . There is no jumping around of the machine because the tub is of-kilter.  It knows when to stop. .  .readjust. . . and start spinning again.\n\nThis machine uses a lot less water.  But. . . If you're like me. .  .There is a button to press so that it uses a little more water, just for good measure.\n\nIf you're not familiar with front-load washers. . . .you use a LOT less detergent than with top-load washers.  You just have to make sure that you use a detergent which is for HE or top-load washers.  If you use the wrong detergent, or too much detergent, youll have a problem with sudsing.  But you certainly save $$ on detergent.\n\nThis machine has a lot of different options.  Water temperature. . .  .spin cycle. .. .. amount of water. . . how dirty your laundry is . . . and so on.  Plenty of options.\n\nOne thing that is great about this machine is the fact that there is a magnet where you close the door, but not all the way, so it allows air in so that the tub doesnt have mold or mildew.  This has been an issue in the past with front-load washers.  There is also a tub clean cycle.\n\nGranted, Ive never had to use this feature. . . but. . . .if you have a problem, there is an app you download, then transfer information from your washing machine to the app to troubleshoot the problem before a service technician is called.  Again, Ive never had an issue . . . so I haven't had to use this feature. . .but I think its cool just the same.\n\nIve been using front-load washers for well over 20-years.  WAY before front-load washers were popular.  First with Asko, and now with LG.  Im in love with this washer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4590, "id": 508204, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 613, "len_tokens": 720, "text": "I bought it not at amazon but at local retail store.\nLooks nice, works fine, but I can say nothing about reliability because I installed it just a few days ago.\n\nMy old range-hood was extremely noisy comparing to this one, but if you think this range-hood is so silent that it could barely be heard than you are wrong. It does produce quite a bit of noise  but it sounds more like noise of the rushing air than like electric motor.\n\nOur old range hood had regular 60 watt bulb and we had a very bright light over our kitchen range. This range hood comes with two sort-of LED pot-lights that produce less light and illuminate only front part of the range. These LED lights look sexy but they are very insufficient for us.\n\nAbout eliminating bad smell from your house:\n\nMy old range hood was probably around 100 cfm and it was practically useless in removing bad smell from the kitchen; this range hood is rated as 720 cfm and if you think it completely eliminates any smell spreading from you kitchen to the rest of your house - than you are wrong. This range hood certainly does better job by removing more smelly air to the outside but when my wife bakes in the oven (for eggplant salad) chunks of onions, chunks of eggplants and garlic the smell of this still spreads around the house. Two things are worthy to mention here. First, if your AC or furnace is ON than the blower fan will cause an air circulation in your house causing smelly air from your kitchen to spread all over your house. So, you are better to turn OFF your AC or furnace when you are cooking really smelly stuff. Second, if you have doors in your kitchen than close them when cooking smelly stuff and running the range hood  it will help a lot. If your kitchen doesnt have doors and you hope than $1000 investment into this range hood will completely eliminate any smell in your house originated from the kitchen than you will waste $1000.\n\nAbout installation:\n\nFirst, it has so-called knockouts for screws/bolts (and knockout for wires on electrical box). These are not real knockouts and you cannot knock them out using screwdriver and hummer, don't even try or you will damage the unit. These knockouts are only to indicate where to drill the holes for the screws/bolts; yes to drill in stainless steel (and installation instructions clearly state it). So, you have to have (or buy) drill bits capable of drilling through stainless steel.\n\nSecond, it is much heavier than less expensive range-hoods. Alone you cannot hold it and screw it to your kitchen cabinet - you must have someone else helping you.\n\nThird, it arrives prewired so that wires come out from the top of the range-hood. I used these wires to wire the range hood and I didn't drill hole in electrical box (to connect wires inside it). Rewiring of this unit looks really challenging. Wires coming out from the top originate from the electrical box (inside the unit) and they are attached with clamps to the back wall deep inside of the range hood. I did not try, but I think it would require removing both motors and fans to rewire this unit. Also, instructions assert that first thing after opening a packaging box (and before doing anything with the unit like drilling holes  or you cannot return the unit) the unit has to be powered and tested (both fans and lights) and these prewired wires come very handy (I used them to test the unit).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4591, "id": 509252, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 582, "len_tokens": 778, "text": "This is my first GE dishwasher and it replaced a Maytag I've had for about 12 years. I don't live in this home full time so the Maytag had only 5-6 years on it and I've been fixing it every couple of months recently for one reason or the other, so when replacing it, Maytag was not even in the running. I began researching and some things about this caught my eye.\n\nThe steam pre-wash sounded good and really works good, coupled with GE's claim of 65% higher wash power than previous models and 3 wash arms, this does an excellent job of cleaning on everything I've put into it. It loads up very well but you have to remember that you've been using your old one for years, so it will be awkward at first trying to find the best place for familiar dishes in an unfamiliar rack.\n\nThe stainless steel inside the door is a pleasure to see in comparison to stained plastic and just gives gives you confidence that it's a well built machine. The door itself is very light and doesn't manually latch, just push it shut and pull it open.\n\nThis is a tall tub, so it has more interior room than what it replaced and yet it slid right in when I installed it which took me about  an hour. The top rack is height adjustable and comes with snap in grids to hang wineglasses. With it adjusted up the lower rack will accept tall items, almost 14 inches.\n\nThis has two silverware baskets across the front, top and bottom and you can put utensils into the handle holder slots or lift the holders and fill the basket or a combination of. I use the holders to keep them separated and I've never had my silverware cleaned so well. I've added an image to show you the baskets and door and I see you need to go to the top of this page and look below the picture to click on it and see.\n\nIt has a system to grind up food, there's a stainless steel blade that rotates at 3,600 RPM to pulverize food particles and helps to prevent large particles from clogging the wash arms\n\nThese are the highlights but after installing it I had a surprise. It didn't seem to work, I started it and lights came on but there were no knocks and hums and backfires and my counter wasn't throbbing...so I opened the door...and it had been running! I still walk past it shaking my head and hope the quiet little alarm never quits working because I don't want to have to open the door just to see if it's finished.\n\nSo to sum it up...it looks good, it cleans good, they've eliminated the possibility of rust by using nylon and stainless steel and it's quiet. I'm sure there are better dishwashers available, but for about $600 this works quite well and seems to be a good value, I've been very happy with it for 4 months now. [Purchased at Home Depot, who delivered and disposed of the old machine inexpensively and would have installed too.]\n\nWarranty Terms - Parts 1 year limited____________Steam Cleaning........Yes\nWarranty Terms - Labor 1 year limited____________Decibel Level...........52dBA\nHeight......................34\"________________________Nylon Rack Material...Yes\nWidth.......................23-3/4\"_____________________Adjustable Racks......Yes\nWeight.....................76 pounds__________________Tall Tub Design.........Yes\nDepth......................24\"________________________Delay-Start Option....Yes\nHard Food Disposer...Yes______________________Cycles........................4\nHeated Drying...........Yes_______________________Spray/Wash Levels....3\n\nEstimated Yearly Operating Cost\n$29 with an electric water heater; $24 with a natural gas water heater\nAdditional specifications at geappliances.com", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4592, "id": 511910, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 616, "len_tokens": 769, "text": "This is way better than what I'm used to.\n\nI bought this because my old combo washer/dryer just had too many things wrong with it and getting parts was impossible.  It was the second machine in 20 years and I had fixed it numerous times.  It was running crippled, but running.  The last straw was when the front door had to be propped closed with a 2x4 because the latch broke, I couldn't buy a new latch, and my better half didn't want me to make one.  I decided that the combo units were basically washers with some kind of drying design add ons, so this time I went for separate units.  I was willing to trade off space for efficiency and durability.\n\nThis dryer got here super fast, was undamaged, installed easily, and works great.\n\nI was a little put off by a mechanical timer in a modern unit, and the push button switch looks cheesy too, but it dries big loads in a short period and gets them nice and dry.  It can do some towels in an hour whereas the other machine would take 4.  (4 hours drying for towels may seem long but these are 110v dryers)  Compared to the combo units dryers, this thing is way better.  The clothes tumble much better inside making the drying operation faster and using less power.  It moves more air through the clothes than my other unit did.  It is noisier than I expected, but ok for a laundry room.  It is also larger than it looks in the picture.  The drum is as large as you could fit in the box.  It takes surprisingly big loads.\n\nIt has an air inlet filter and an exhaust lint filter.  The manual instructs you to clean them each time you dry.  Ummm.  No.  The lint filter pulls off the back of the drum and is about 6\" in diameter or so and consists of 3 pieces.  It all snaps in place on the drum.  I can see that long term the plastic on the snap will wear out and the part will have to be replaced.  I'm doing what another reviewer does and using a portable vacuum to clean out the filters.\n\nIt comes with wall mount brackets, and the exhaust port is set up to put the hot air out at a 90 degree angle instead of straight out.  This is in case you use the wall mounts.  They space the unit far enough out from the wall to accommodate.  Workmanship?  I have no basis for comparison.  It seems sturdy.  The feet don't have locknuts and have flanges that make adding them a pain.  Just a couple of things and they would have it right.  Redesign the filter and get it nice feet - adjustable with locknuts and grippy bottoms.\n\nI've only had it for a week, but so far it gets 5 stars.  Not like a 220v unit, but almost.  Now let's see how many years it lasts.\n\nUpdate 1 year later:\nThis dryer has saved me a lot of money.  It dries fairly large loads quickly so it saves power and time.  It's much faster than the other 110 volt dryers I've used in the past and leaves clothes nice and fluffy.  It is not a high heat unit like the big boys but it also won't damage any clothes that are delicate or elastic.  It recently broke a belt - the one driving the air pump.  It has a safety mechanism to prevent it from overheating if this happens.  The company that sells it - Versonel - sent me a new one quickly.  It was an easy install.  It still gets 5 stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4593, "id": 512382, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 612, "len_tokens": 751, "text": "It's ok. Had some real difficulties installing it. I'm assuming the others who wrote reviews had someone else install it.  I had several issues which I'll detail below.\n\n1) Instructions were a joke. The basic order of operations was fine but they suggest weird things like using metal screws and anchors when drilling into wood. You'll need to do some improvising here as well because:\n\n2) No hardware is included. That's right, no screws, no anchors, nuts, washers, nothing at all. Every single wall screw or even the screws for internal parts you will need to provide yourself. The included instructions do list out all the hardware you'll need but that's a problem as well because:\n\n3) The screws they suggest you use in the instructions are incorrect or too big. Not even kidding. They suggest drilling into a stud to attach the hood (obviously) but also suggest doing it with M5 metal screws. Like, what the hell?? (In case you don't know, you would never ever use M metal screws to attach something to wood as it wouldn't stay) And the screws that attach the top of the stainless column to the wall bracket also suggests M5 screws. This seems reasonable but no, M5 screws are WAY too wide. I couldn't even get M4 screws to fit. M4 might actually be the right size but metal screws have the wrong pitch for something so thick so nope, not gonna work. No way. I ended up using some galvanized screws in that area and all went fine.\n\n4) Draws no air. Like, none. The fan has 4 speeds but even on the highest one the motor roars but no suction is felt. So I pull out the filters and feel the 6\" wide intake at the motor and there is barrrrrely any suction. Now disperse that tinnnny bit of suction across the actual face of the unit where everyday air is being pulled and you quickly realize just how useless this hood is. No. Suction.\n\n5) Pro or con, depending on your preference but the LED clock is crazy bright! Pics in these reviews really don't do it justice. No way to dim it that I know of.\n\nI would say if you need an actual hood to draw air and function is a priority, DO NOT buy this one. If you're more like us and not so worried about air movement and the hood is almost more of a looks/space filler, go for it.\n\nUPDATE: The clock does not work. It lights up and all but never changes from 12:00.  Called support and they're sending a new display and motherboard that I'll need to replace.\n\nUPDATE 2: New parts arrived. They told me it would just be a matter of unplugging the old parts and plugging in the new ones. Not quite. After about 2 hours of work I have everything plugged in but now the lights don't turn on and the icons on the display don't light up on the right side. This is infuriating.\n\nUPDATE 3: Using all the parts I now possess I was able to find a correct combination of motherboards, wiring, and lighting pieces that I was able to get it all working.  I also bought something else here on amazon for $7.99 to dim the outrageously (and literally painful to look at) bright blue clock.  Amazon won't let us post links but it's called \"Dim It Light Dimming Sheets\". I cut out a piece of that to cover the clock and it's perfect now.\n\nThe company also commented that the hardware was supposed to be included with the unit so your mileage may vary there.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4594, "id": 513208, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 591, "len_tokens": 725, "text": "I bought this set locally three years ago and should have gone with my gut and returned it the first week.  But my husband thought it would be too much hassle and told me maybe we just have to get used to having an HE machine and the different way it cleans.  Really, really should have sent these right back.  Three years later, I cannot SELL this set, still working \"fine\", on Craigslist for $500.  Nobody wants HE machines, because they are shiny, fancy, pieces of junk.\n\nThe washer barely fills with water.  I use the extra water function, and with that it sort of puts in enough water, sometimes.  Many times I'll find clothes sticking up out of the water, and not moving around enough to actually be submerged.  I have stood there and watched this washer work, thinking, \"Okay, these clothes cannot possibly be getting clean.\"  And they really weren't.\n\nOdors do not come out of clothes unless you put it on a soak, and the heaviest settings with the most water, taking up to 2 hours of wash time.  We also have to use the most expensive Tide and Downy available to have any hope of the clothes smelling okay.  And even then at times they still smell musty or not clean.  Sweat odors also do not come out well.  And why have a huge capacity washer if you can't fill it full with clothes?  Smaller loads need to be washed to have any hope of them coming out somewhat clean smelling.\n\nThe spin is so harsh that it literally twists up the clothing and ties everything in knots.  Sometimes I have to untie legs of pants and tights and shirt sleeves to get them out.  And then, everything is permanently twisted into wrinkles that the dryer can't even get out.\n\nAny little problem with the weight of your items will unbalance the washer, and you have to go in and try to make the washer happy.  It isn't easy.\n\nThe lid locks, so throwing in a last minute washcloth or sock is a pain to wait for it to unlock, then relock, then rebalance, then restart.\n\nIn a nutshell, this washer will clean your clothes halfway, and wrinkle them double.  As a side note, an appliance guy told me today that if you put clothes that have been washed for awhile in an HE machine into an old fashioned machine without soap, the old fashioned load will end up full of suds because of all the soap that the HE machine leaves behind!  Because HE machines don't really \"rinse\", they just sort of squirt off the clothes.\n\nThe dryer is okay, except that we had to get the seal repaired after the first year.  Plus, it doesn't always dry quite right, and of course it can't possibly dry out all the wrinkles put in by the crazy washer it comes with.\n\nOh and the finish on the top does not wear well.  It scratches super easily, especially if you tend to put laundry baskets on top like we do.  After three years the tops of these look pretty bad.  And all the plastic parts in and around the machine end up very yellowed and yucky looking.\n\nAfter owning this set for three years, we have had enough.  Expensive lesson learned...learn from our mistake!  We went today and bought a SQ set....old fashioned, dials, plenty of water, no frills, well made set.  I can NOT wait to wash all of our dingy clothes in a REAL washing machine!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4595, "id": 515091, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 577, "len_tokens": 718, "text": "It's a daunting prospect to order a large item like this, sight unseen, from a seller you've never heard of.  Well, it turned out spectacularly!  Delivery was fast and the shipping company helped me inspect it before I signed for it (which was an absolute requirement of the seller).  It sat in my entryway for about a month before I could get my brother-in-law over to help me install it.  Also, I had aluminum wiring to the oven (not the '60s era aluminum branch wiring) which is more common than you may think... so I had to research the correct way to attach the copper leads to the aluminum (NOT wire nuts - actual Cu to Al junction blocks insulated with \"splicing\" tape and electrical tape - check codes if you encounter this). The wiring conduit was not very long and would have made for a difficult install, so I removed the conduit from the oven I was replacing and put it on this oven - doubling the length (Fridigaire really should add a couple more feet to their conduit).\n\nMy oven cutout appeared to be the perfect size for this oven until I realized a showstopper - the existing electrical box was mounted at the back of the cutout, but took up 1 1/2\" of depth that this oven would need to slide all the way in.  I had to remount the box to the top of the opening (behind the much shallower microwave part) and I was fortunate that there was enough house wiring there to allow this to happen... it was close!\n\nThis is a big, heavy unit (about 250 lbs.) and I believe that during shipping, the microwave part twisted slightly relative to the oven - the top unit was about 1/2\" out of line with the bottom.  Physical wrenching wouldn't work, so I had to remove the microwave and actually drill out the metal attachments to get the units to line up properly.  A bit of extra work, but probably expected for a job like this.\n\nOnce lifted into the cutout, it slid back easily and was secured with just two screws!  And it looks great!\n\nAnd the best part... I love my new oven and microwave!  The unit it replaced was a GE from 1986, so the microwave is FAR more powerful and the digitally-controlled oven has features (like probe cooking) that I now can't live without.  When a recipe says \"heat to an internal temperature of 165 degrees\", I immediately pull out the probe and let 'er go!  Tell the oven to bake until the probe says it's 165, and then the oven goes into a \"keep warm\" mode until you get your perfectly-cooked food out.  Man, I didn't know what I was missing!  Really love this.  And there's all the other things this features, like convection cooking and self cleaning.  And a nice, LOUD alarm on the oven.\n\nThen they go and put the most feeble buzzer imaginable on the microwave... so low that I can't hear it (although a woman friend could - barely).  Don't know why they couldn't have used the same buzzer that was on the oven, but they didn't.  BUT the microwave is so powerful and cooks so evenly, that I'll give Frigidaire a pass on that.  But FIX IT, folks.\n\nVery pleased with my purchase and the product is amazing.  One of the best larger purchases I've made this year!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4596, "id": 516383, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 629, "len_tokens": 712, "text": "Bought the range (gas top,electric oven) with the hope it would be an answer to my cooking dreams. I was unable to see this range before purchasing and had to go off of pictures and measurments from online and mfg.  My background is having worked in the food industry as a chef for a few years in private country clubs. After that job I have been doing remodel jobs off and on for about 20 years. I read past problematic reviews with older models and had hoped they had solved their problems. The range arrived in great condition. My kitchen is being remodled thank god because this range is not really designed to be put on a slab foundation. There is no room behind the range when installed except about a 2 inch channel along the left side for a flexable gas pipe. There is no room for the electrical so you will have to drop your electrical to ground level to clear oven. This may be a problem for some inspectors so you will have to use waterproof boxes and conduit. Gas pipe has to be exactly placed due to no room to place that or again you will have to put it at ground level or plan on not having this range flush with the wall. After I got through all of that I find  a wiring bundle running over sharp stainless with one of the wires already scraped. One of the bundles was in a rubber washer but this bundle wasn't. I called the mfg and discussed the problems, they could care less. Same goes with the installation problems. I guess they figure if you don't have a subfloor tough. Finally get it installed and go to attach wiring. The phenolic wiring block which has to be flipped if you use a direct wire, it falls apart into two pieces when unscrewed. .As it has two screws holding it in I was still able to install it. Complete the gas and electric and fire it up. The center burner igniter continues to spark when at simmer. The convection fan causes so much vibration that the cast iron grates rattle. The noise is incredible. This is noisier than a commercial large oven.  Can you say jet taking off. And one of the reasons I bought this range was the variable speed convection speed. The racks don't look right to me. The top one is very close to the top and there is about 4 inches before the first rack on the bottom. No way you are going to be able to use the upper rack except for biskets or cookies if cooking a turkey. There is no bottom heating element exposed and being a convection oven the lower rack could have been put several inches closer to the bottom. Another call to the mfg who over the phone says it is not right so they give  me some repair people to call. At this point it is a week or so before thanksgiving. The repair person shows up and checks it out and says it must be because it was ordered online. Right, new in box and somehow that caused all the problem. Found another repair person who came out and agreed it was installed ok and the problems will need parts ordered, should take two or three weeks. What a joke. This range has been out for a while but it has now been 6 weeks and the mfg who will not drop ship to the repair person says still no parts because it is a new range model. So I have this great looking range sitting on the floor taking up space waiting for parts. Will try to update if the parts ever arrive.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4597, "id": 516503, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 621, "len_tokens": 741, "text": "Ok, first I have to say that the experience with Living Direct and the website Kegerator.com were I bought the appliance is very good. They are very professional, and always ready to help you out and fix the hardware/software problem you may have, instantly, and without questions.\nAfter I had this kegerator for a bit more than a month, I am ready to write a detailed review, in order to help other people to consider better choices than I did.\n\nthe kegerator in question came with a door all dented, promptly living direct sent me a new door with no question. Thumbs up with them.\n\n2) the door gasket was not sealed well, and caused the back cooling pipes to build ice in less than few days and the unit wasn't working properly anymore (not cooling enough), and I lost a 1/6 keg of precious beer because it didn't taste good anymore. The technical support from Edgestar told me that is normal the buildup of ice, which is not for a unit like this, because really impact significantly to the overall performance of the unit, especially if kept outside in Florida.\n\n3) when I did install the new door finally things got better, but I still can see the new gasket doesn't seal completely, so probably there is still some more overwork to the compressor, so I may have to use the warranty later on.\n\n4) if you pay attention to the stainless steel aluminum frame it is very very thin and on the top surface I can still see a lot of imperfections and dents. This is indicative that the material is very cheap and (not even close to the aluminum frame of a common aluminum refrigerator).\n\n5) if in any case you lose power, during power outages just for few seconds, the units starts up and lose the temperature settings (back to default 43-45 deg.). IF THE POWER IS OFF FOR MORE THAN FEW SECONDS AND COMES BACK, THE UNIT DOES NOT TURN ON BY ITSELF, sorry I did write this in all caps but it is necessary to know. So consider what happens when you come back after a long day of work and find your kegerator off.\n\n6) the unit says that it pushes air anteriorly (which is not true) for a better built-in construction, the air, instead, is getting pushed laterally to the sides (so be careful not to have other appliances to the sides).\n\n7)The unit comes only with 1 year of warranty and considering the price, considering that is not a commercial grade, there were other better choices around, with 5 years of warranty included, better quality of construction (inside-outside thick stainless steel), and better hardware fidelity (that actually turns back on during power outages). For obvious reasons, and being respectful of this opportunity to share my experience on this website, I can't be more specific about brands, but let just say that there are better choices with commercial grades not more expensive than this and with less troubles.\n\n8) the little string that is provided to hold the CO2 tank inside it is too small for the diameter of the CO2 thank, and I am very surprised that they didn't correct this issue, because reading other review it looks like I am not the only incurring on this problem.\nI give to the unit 2/5 stars because it looks good and keeps the beer cold with minimal foam. but the quality of the materials, the fact doesn't turn on when the power is back on after outages and /or can't save the temp. settings, only 1 year of warranty included is really bringing this unit down very much.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4598, "id": 517073, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 611, "len_tokens": 773, "text": "We purchased this dishwasher 3 weeks ago to replace a 5-year old Whirlpool that had begun leaking.  First mistake: this \"KitchenAid\" dishwasher is made by Whirlpool.  I never would've purchased the \"premium\" brand KitchenAid if I'd known it was made by the same people that made the poor unit it was replacing.\n\nThe main problem with this dishwasher: the interior design is just terrible.  Even though it's a standard size, the inside layout is so poor that we can't fit nearly the amount of dishes as any previous dishwasher we've had.  The upper rack is adjustable to two different heights.  If you set it on the upper setting, glasses won't fit in the upper rack because they bang into the silverware tray.  If you set it on the lower setting, normal size plates won't fit in the lower rack.  Which means you're basically hosed.  We've spent 3 weeks trying every combination we can think of to fit in a standard load of plates and glasses, and it's just impossible.\n\nYou can remove the silverware trays on the silverware rack, but you may as well then just buy a much cheaper dishwasher that doesn't have that feature.  The store manager where we purchased it said to set one side of the upper rack high, and the other side low, so it would slide in \"diagonally\", allowing us to fit plates and glasses normally.  But that won't work; the tabs that lock the rack into place won't engage if you try that.\n\nSo you can just forget washing anything other than small cups and small plates in this dishwasher.\n\nSecondly, don't believe their hype about how \"quiet\" this dishwasher is.  When it's washing, it's about as quiet as any regular dishwasher we've ever had (at probably less than half the price).  But when the water is filling, which is frequently during the normal cycle, it's super loud.  Loud enough to be heard in any room in the house.\n\nAs for cleaning ability, it's about average on plates and glasses.  We've tried silverware in both the upper tray, and in the removable holder on the lower rack, and silverware comes out less clean, and more spotty, in both locations compared to any other dishwasher we've ever had.\n\nThe unit has a feature called \"ProDry\", which I guess is supposed to be a premium feature to ensure items come out dry despite the new energy efficiency standards which came into effect several years ago.  But don't believe that one either: nothing that isn't loaded perfectly vertical, like a plate, comes out dry.  We need to manually dry off probably half of the contents of each load, even after it's run overnight.  Never had that problem in any previous dishwasher either.\n\nAnd the cycle time for normal wash is incredibly long.  Almost 3 hours total, and then a fan runs for another few hours (assumedly to dry the items inside, which doesn't work).  That fan is also loud enough to hear in the next room.\n\nDue to all these problems, we tried to return it just three days after it was installed, but the retailer wouldn't take it back.  They said I would have to get approval from KitchenAid for that.  So after over an hour on hold over the phone with KitchenAid, they told me I was out of luck, and they would not approve returning it, because it technically wasn't broken.\n\nThe list price on this dishwasher is $1849.  Obviously making it priced as an extremely high end unit.  But as these problems make clear, this is an extremely poorly designed product.  I wouldn't recommend it an even 1/3 of that price.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4599, "id": 517266, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 594, "len_tokens": 717, "text": "7/4/16 post -\n  Oven 5 stars,  Parts availability 1 star\nThe oven works wonderfully.  After one more call to the warranty company they found a part in the office and overnighted it to the local repairman. He did a wonderful job including scavenging a circuit off the old part to make the new part operable. Maybe there was a reason it was sitting in the managers office.\nTo make a long story short The oven works fine.  The convection is true European convection (ie an element can heat the convection air) and there are about 10 different cooking modes to operate the 4 elements. So far I have cooked pie crust, muffins, ribs and roast etc and all have  worked above my expectation.\nWould I order it again. Definitely.  It is the only oven on the market that has my desired features (side opening door, convection, fits in my kitchen) and in my price range. But get the extended warranty because this European company needs to work on customer service. It is is polite but not prompt.  US manufactures need to get on the ball. Larger is not better and side open doors are often not a luxury - ADA needs them as an option.\n 6/16 post - I was excited to find this oven. We needed an oven that opened to the side (ADA issues), had convection and would fit in the space (all us brand ovens have grown to large for our fairly new kitchen cupboards.)\nThe oven arrived 5 days after placing the order.  We had a local electrician install it and it worked great for 2 hours.  The 2nd time I turned the oven on POP a big blue spark and voila no oven just a large square of metal sitting in my kitchen.\nI called the warranty number 3/30 and filed a claim.  It is now 6-15 and still no working oven.\nProblem # 1 no no response to my warranty request\n  6 weeks after my first warranty contact I followed up because no technician had contacted me (the long delay was partly my fault as I\n  was unexpectedly away from home for 4 weeks, but there was no attempt to contact me during that time.)\nProblem #2 no local technicians.\n  after a followup call a local technician was found who would do the warranty work but the warranty company wanted to send the probable\n  part for the repair. OK\nProblem #3 part has not arrived\n  After two emails stating that the part had been shipped and calls to the local technician determining that the part had not actually been\n  shipped a follow up call to the warranty company determined that the part was not yet available and might take 3 to 4 weeks to get to their\n  facility. This is already 10 weeks since the first warranty contact and 4 weeks from the email stating that the parts were on their way.\nProblem #4\n  Today after another follow up initiated by me I was told that there was no way to know when the part would arrive.\n  Within an hour I got a call back and they have found a part in the managers office.\nIt appears that this oven is sturdy meets all my requirements, the warranty folks have been kind, the local tech has always responded to my inquires quickly and with a helpful manor but the length of time I have been cooking only with a toaster oven has made this experience a nightmare.\n I will let you know when I have a working oven.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4600, "id": 517855, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 609, "len_tokens": 735, "text": "This is a true story. I posted this review on the Bosch Canada website as well (waiting to see if the company will post it).\n\nFirst stove:  I purchased this model of Bosch stove in October 2015 on sale from Lowe's Regina (Saskatchewan, Canada). I paid to have it delivered and installed by Lowe's. According to the installers, sparks flew out of the stove when it was plugged in. I heard the noise but did not see where the sparks came from. The stove control panel was still working so the installers continued with the installation. Later, when I went to use the stove, two burners were not working. I also realized the installers had installed the stove so it was resting on my quartz countertop (which it should not because the stove weighs about 250 lbs). The countertop was damaged in about four places as a result. Lowe's is responsible for the countertop (still unresolved) and Bosch arranged for a stove replacement.\n\nSecond stove: The replacement stove was delivered and installed by Lowe's in November 2015. At time of delivery, the following issues were evident: 1) bubbles in the control panel finish 2) warped glass stove top and warped metal trim (photos attached). I needed a stove, and given the concerns with possibly damaging the counter top further, it was decided to repair the second stove rather than replace it. Numerous phone calls and emails later (weeks would go by with no response from Bosch Customer Service US), arrangements were made for a service technician to complete the repairs. In the meantime, I realized the oven fan was not working properly. The speed of the fan cycled erratically. I went to Lowe's and listened to the floor demo to compare! I found many bubbles in the oven finish as well. When the Bosch service technician visited my house (twice), he confirmed all of the above issues. This process has taken about two months. Now it's the end of January 2016, and it's been determined to order a third replacement stove.\n\nAdditional issues:\n\n1) The Bosch installation manual says, under \"Parts Included, that foam tape should be included \"unless already installed on underside of cooktop sides\". For both stoves, no foam tape was provided by Bosch, nor was it on the underside of the cooktop, to protect my countertop. When I mentioned this to Bosch Customer Service, the supervisor replied that the installers should have not installed it without the foam tape! I purchased and installed tape for the second stove installation which seemed to help slide the stove in more easily.\n\n2) Also, for both stoves, the chemical smell of the oven finish was extremely strong when the oven was on. Eventually, the smell dissipated, but until it did, I did not cook any food in the oven.\n\n3) I find the stove top elements do not simmer at all well.\n4) Lastly, its tricky to move the stove because of its weight and the lip on the sides of the stove top.\n\nFunnily enough, during all this, my Bosch dishwasher was recalled for a fire hazard issue with the plug.\n\nYou may be asking yourself by now, why would I get a third replacement stove by Bosch? I'm hoping the company will get it together and send me a quality stove? The price I paid was a really good deal. It matches my made-in-Germany dishwasher (which did not give me problems). Are there other stoves out there much better in this price range?\n\nNeedless to say I cannot recommend this stove, especially not at full price.\n\nGood luck with your stove shopping.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4601, "id": 517875, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 500, "len_tokens": 730, "text": "Don't...\nbuy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use.  This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models.  I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops.\n\nHere are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's \"Use and Care\" manual:\n\n500-series:\nhttp://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975580612\n(page 14)\n\n800-series:\nhttp://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975587312\n(page 16)\n\nFlexinduction:\nhttp://www.goedekers.com/assets/PDF/Bosch/bosch-nitp666suc-use-and-care-manual.pdf\n(page 15)\n\nI called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call.  I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off.  I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to \"just turn off\" on its own.  On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and \"get back to me with an answer\".\n\nWell, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer.  The support people don't know and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer).  How strange is that?  But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to \"an unknown at Bosch\".  The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals:\n\"Automatic time limitation\nIf the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. \"F8\" and the residual heat indicator \"H/h\" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours).\"\n\nThe email also briefly revealed that \"a customer\" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations.  Whatsoever!  I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for \"safety reasons\" but no other details were offered.  Safety reasons?  Really?  Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state?  Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off  \"for safety reasons\"  Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others.\n\nI hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off?  Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off.\n\nBottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between \"1 and 10 hours\".  Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef for 4-5 hours.\n\nBosch engineers take notice!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4602, "id": 518389, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 666, "len_tokens": 751, "text": "So far we are pretty happy with this fridge but there's a few things to be aware of:\n- The shelves have little in the way of adjustment options, up or down and that's it. None of the shelves slide out or fold up, this is a nice feature in much cheaper brands and models.\n- No butter bin!\n- The very top of the fridge tends to freeze whatever is up there, in our case that would be our eggs. This happens when our fridge is set at 38 degrees even, which happens to be the recommended and preset temp from the manufacturer.\n- The produce drawers are very shallow, this is a trade off for having a water dispenser in the fridge, the reservoir (keeps the water cold) sits behind the drawers. I'd say you lose a good 4\" of drawer depth from the reservoir... but the water dispenser is pretty awesome (more on that later).\n- Has adjustable feet instead of adjustable rollers, that means when you adjust the feet it lifts the rollers off the ground. Pain in the butt if you need to pull the fridge out for some reason, not like you need to do this often but still a minus none the less.\n- Lighting is not the best we had seen in our search for a fridge, All the other brands had lights all around to eliminate shadows and dead spots. This has two lights at the top which are blocked easily by eggs or pizza boxes.\n- The left door is a bit harder to close than the right one since the door spacer is on that side. Which is a pain since the water dispenser is on that same side. If you open both doors at the same time it's not an issue. Wish the spacer was on the right side.\n\nOkay on to the things that I love about this fridge:\n- It holds magnets! Love putting our kids artwork on the fridge and our GE profile fridge didn't allow for that.\n- From the time we plugged in it was cooling groceries in 4 hours. This thing keeps food COLD, notably our lunch meat which has an extra three days of life (8 days total) over our last fridge.\n- Ice! This thing cranks out ice like I've never seen before. 18 hours after I plugged it in we had a full bin of ice. It breezed through our last dinner party where most were drinking mixers. Love the ice maker, which btw comes with a built-in scoop holder and scoop and with the flip of lever it attaches to the door so it slides out upon opening.\n- Water dispenser rocks. We used to buy bottled water since our tap water tastes so gross, not anymore. Water comes out cold and it tastes like deerpark water.\n- It's a beautiful fridge and it fits like a glove in our cabinet cut-out.\n- All the drawers open and close smoothly, including the freezer drawer and inner storage.\n\nIf you add up it up appears that the negatives outweigh the positives but I don't think so. We went into this knowing that every fridge we considered would have it's drawbacks. I only found one negative review in my countless hours of research and that is worth peace of mind to me. It seemed that for every good review I found of another brand there was an equal amount of negative reviews. We are a family of four with a 5 and a 2 year old and it's plenty of space for us at the moment, we do have another fridge in the basement that holds a decent amount of frozen goods though. No regrets here I would buy this fridge again for sure.\n\n As a side note this is the same fridge as the kitchen aid architect II series and another jen airr model. Tried finding the differences between them but I could not.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4603, "id": 518933, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 599, "len_tokens": 720, "text": "Oven racks are dangerous and ignition can take 30s of holding the knob down.\n\n1. Who thinks designing a flip UP lip on an oven rack is a good idea? Hmm? You cannot slide a cookie sheet in (nor out) and if you have something of heft, you will need to put your arms entirely too far into the oven to put the cookie sheet or roasting pan down. It is such a HORRIBLE design flaw that the oven does not deserve to be in any kitchen. Even well trained adults will have trouble with this. What seemed like a strange irritation has become a personal hazard.\n\nThe designer clearly does not cook. Or even know how.\n\n2. The other strange irritation is with the gas ignition. The burners finally start in a reasonable time, but they needed several warm-up days before they started working correctly, which brings me to the oven . . . again. The first few times I used the oven I waited until I heard the telltale sign that gas and fire were alive in the oven; I left to allow the oven to preheat, and I returned to the oven 15 minutes later to discover it lukewarm. It was in attempting to use the broiler that I realized I have to hold in the broil (aka bake) knob for at least 30 seconds in order to get the oven to keep the fire going. Fire will start but it peters out if not depressed for 30s+.\n\nI'd consider gas company issues if the burners were still trouble, but the burners seem fine.\n\nOne star because the oven sheets really are a very serious burn accident waiting to happen. They should be recalled.\n\nUpdate 6/7/2014\nA reasonable question: are the oven racks installed correctly?\nBefore I wrote the review I had turned, flipped and tested the oven racks in every conceivable configuration - should have mentioned that in the original review. I ended up going back to the way they were installed when I moved in. Here's why:\n\nWhen you look at the side of an oven rack you should see a divot. That divot stops the forward motion of the oven rack should you need to slide the oven rack out to remove something particularly heavy/sploshy, etc.\n\nBoth lips up: the divot stops the forward movement of the rack without changing angle - in other words, it holds steady. So while you have to be crazy careful lifting items vertically off the rack, at least it won't send the item careening toward the floor when you pull the rack forward.\n\nBoth lips down: The divot stops the forward movement of the rack and very unpleasantly changes angle. This means your lamb roast will come sliding at you. Catch!\n\nBased on the welding seams and the divot, I put the oven racks back the way they were installed when I moved into the apartment. Were they installed according to directions? I don't know. The contractors did not leave those behind and I had no problem testing different configurations. A reasonable person should be able to figure out the installation of the oven racks.\n\nThe point is - you can do better when it comes to buying ovens. The ignition is still a problem 13 months after installation - it takes at least 22 seconds depressing the bake/broil button for the oven to stay ignited (ignites immediately but will extinguish when you let go of the knob \"prematurely\"). The oven racks are a hot mess, and it just isn't functional/stylish/cool enough to overcome its flaws.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4604, "id": 519101, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 601, "len_tokens": 734, "text": "I purchased this stove new at a deep discount from Lowes in May of 2016. It was discontinued shortly after, but this review may be useful to those purchasing used or those looking to purchase newer similar models.\nIn a word: Don't.\nIt works well enough, but it's nothing spectacular. The high heat burners aren't as hot as I was hoping for. And the flame pattern diameter puts all the heat very close to the edge of any commonly used pot or pan. This leaves a center cooler spot. The effect can be verified with a thermometer. So not the best piece for deep frying, where you need a LOT of heat fast. Unfortunately, you can't really use larger pots, as the burners are too close together.\nThese same larger burners are too hot for most other cooking. And there are two of them, right up front. The single mid size burner at left rear is the most versatile, but still too hot for simmering.\nThe special low heat simmering burner has such a small diameter that it is nearly useless. It heats only a very small section in the center of any pot. Often heating the center hot enough to burn your food while the outside edges are too cool. Useful only if you'll be stirring constantly.\nOven: When baking multiple sheets of cookies, I can see no difference between convection fan on or off. Different areas are hotter or cooler either way. And no difference in time till done. I was really looking forward to the advantages of convection ovens, but can't see any.\nThe dehydration function does work well.\nReliability: POOR Four months after purchase the thing woke me up in the middle of the night with a series of 10 loud beeps. Upon investigation, noted an error code on the touch pad display. \"--SE--.\" All touch pad operations inoperative. After googling the issue, discovered SE means a shorted key. I was able to reset the range by unplugging it for 30 seconds.\nThis solved the problem. A couple months later I noted that the touch membrane was bubbled up and separated in a couple small spots. And then error sequence happened again.\nI had purchased the extended warranty, so wasn't too worried about it. The problem continued off and on for several more months. It has now finally broken. Reset lasts only a few minutes. Stove burners are still operative, but NO oven functions, clock, timer, or any other function controlled by key pad.\nI have extended warranty service scheduled, so I'll see what they say. Internet investigations seem to indicate this is a common issue.\nAt age 65, I have owned several ranges. This is actually the first one I ever bought new. All my previous ranges came with the houses I have bought. Not one of them ever failed in any way. When I buy an \"appliance\" I fully expect it will last 20 years or more. I'm sure glad I didn't pay anywhere near the $1200 this stove originally retailed for. And I'm sure glad I bought the $100 service policy.  I almost didn't buy this range, because I own a very expensive high end Samsung \"smart\" TV that is so glitchy and buggy it is barely watchable at times. My significant other recently threw away a $1000 Samsung galaxy phone because it it worked so poorly.\nI will never buy another Samsung anything.\nCoincidentally, I bought an LG gas range around the same time from Best Buy for my girlfriends house. A discontinued floor model, similarly featured and priced, it has functioned flawlessly.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4605, "id": 519690, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 657, "len_tokens": 779, "text": "So far so good! I must have spent HOURS reading reviews on refrigerators before settling on this one. Seems they all ALL have one issues or another. I think a lot of it just comes down to personal preference, which is hard to know until you own it. We were upgrading from an older GE profile side-by-side SS fridge that suddenly died (while we were on vacation of course). After several trips to Home Depot and Lowes testing out different designs, this fit the bill when it came to size, look, design, and price. It also had a lot more reviews on the HD and Lowe's websites, with most being positive. I decided to purchase it through the seller on Amazon since it was about $500 cheaper than Home Depot or Lowe's Memorial Day appliance sale price. I knew I was taking a risk with delivery, but took a chance thinking \"hey, we've moved fridges before\". Overall the delivery process was smooth. I didn't receive notification from the shipping company right away, so called and from then on they were ON IT and gave me updates almost daily. The shipping info did say it would only be delivered curb side in certain states, but CA was not on there so was hoping they'd bring it all the way in. Turns out it was too wide for our front door, and removing door hinges etc is against their policy, so it was left in the garage. Not going to lie, getting it into the house was a bit of a nightmare and the only reason I may consider spending more next time and having HD or Lowes deliver (assuming they bring it in no matter what obstacles). Had to take the front door off the door hinges, remove a patio light, and even with 2 big guys and a commercial dolly, it leaned against our outside brick wall and dented a small area. The dent is small, but seeing it is a constant reminder for my husband so we will be purchasing a new left door (fyi, no magnets will stick to the area to cover it). Replacement left door is $200 on Sears parts, so even with a new door, the fridge was still cheaper than HD or Lowes.\n\nNot going to list all the pros because they're covered in other reviews. I will say the showcase door though is fabulous for households with kids. I stick their drinks and snacks in there for easy access and they don't have to call me every 5 sec saying they can't find something (heaven forbid it's not right in front of their face and they have to move something over...same goes for the husband). Also, we have friends/family over frequently and this is a good place to put water/beer/soda etc so people aren't rifling through your fridge judging your food purchases :)  I was also worried about fingerprints since our last SS fridge was hard to keep clean and stainless steel cleaners only streaked and made it look worse. Happy to report that smudges and fingerprints clean up beautifully on this one with Weimans SS cleaner. Looks as good as new (aside from the dent...grrr) after that.\n\nSome cons are: 1) the water/ice maker dispenser sits at an angle to where it's easy for water/ice to overshoot the cup 2) condiment space on the left door isn't the best with the ice maker taking up room, but I've still been able to fill it up with smaller condiment bottles  3) no egg storage, but really, is it that big of a deal to keep them in the carton? Sure it looks nicer, but it always seemed liked unnecessary work moving them from the carton to a plastic tray. If it's that important, sure you could buy an egg storage tray on Amazon for a few bucks.\n\nOverall we are totally happy with our new fridge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4606, "id": 522773, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 605, "len_tokens": 715, "text": "This is a great range for the price. Actually better than ones costing double. We've been using it for 2 months. It cleans easily. The grates are heavy! with heat resistant rubber feet so they always set properly (flat) on the stove top and no issues setting them on counter tops with scratching. The only issue, and other have had this, one burner is hard to light. No matter what you do, it sparks fine, gas comes out but it won't light. Researching the fix. We did notice that the chromed aluminum burner ring will get dark spots when hot grease gets on it while in use. A bit of elbow grease and a good chrome polish will fix that in a couple of minutes. The variety of burner outputs is super handy. We decided on this configuration because others told us that the layout with the burner in the middle, it's hard to use the others when in use. We can put a large pot on the big burner and still use the others. And that big burner can boil stuff fast!\nYes the stainless top is thinner metal than others. Not an issue once installed. The total depth of the unit is exactly what we needed to allow for a drawer under the cooktop.\nSo far, so good.\n\nUpdate: July 2018\nThe unit has held up well. We throw the grates (well carefully lift..they are beefy) and put them in the dishwasher to clean. No discoloring or rust thus far. We are having the same burner lighting issues others have experienced. The solution is counter intuitive. Set the burner to it's lowest setting while lighting and it works fine every time. The flame sensors are not as sensitive as we would like. If you don't hold the knob in the start position once lit, for 15 seconds, the flame will go out. Some where down the road, replacement of these with better quality flame sensors might fix this. It's minor in the scope of things.\n\nCleaning has been easy. Lift off the grates and the burner assemblies, pull the knobs and you have an easy, accessable cleaning area. We use Windex and a sponge, wipe down with warm water and a hand towel. Occasionally I will use some stainless spray cleaner and polish. After a year of use, it still looks great. Well, accept for the area we learned not to use the scrubby side of the sponge.\n\nThe unit's biggest 2 issues are: the stainless surface scratches easily and the aluminum burner rings are now black. DO NOT clean hard to get off grease or whatever, off the stainless surface with the scrubby side of your sponge. It will permanently scratch the surface. This tells me that this is not great stainless metal. The burner rings appear to be cast aluminum that is machined. Any grease that gets on them will burn in place and leave the ring spotted black. This is a bad use of materials on their part. I am going to get them power coated and that will fix the issue.\n\nThe burners all work great and the big on boils a big pot of water darn fast. I brew beer and this will take hot tap water to a boil in half the time using any of the other burners...or any other stove we have had. Monster BTU output. 5 burner cooks tops always get crowded when they are less than 36\" wide. But having the big burner on NOT in the middle, makes this cook top way more useable with multipul  post and pans going at once.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4607, "id": 526033, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 555, "len_tokens": 706, "text": "No, I didn't purchase this part; but, I have something useful to contribute regarding a leak at the bottom side of the dishwasher door.  Since this is a Whirlpool parts number replacement as per my Kenmore owner's manual, I gave it five stars so I could make my comment.  We own a Kenmore Ultra Wash model 66515795790 purchased 1998.  It had worked flawlessly all these years except for minor parts replacement on the upper spray arm and dish racks.  Recently we started getting leaking from the bottom door corner.  I researched, read/watched videos, etc to learn the possible issues.  Be aware, many videos I watched did not perfectly match my dishwasher design; so, be careful before you start doing some of the steps prescribed for replacing the door gasket, bottom baffle, etc.  I had no clue how the door gasket was cemented in place; it's not cemented; it easily/carefully pulls out and the new gasket merely pushes into position.  In both the bottom interior corners, near the front, there are \"tub corner baffles.\"  They also just pull out of position.  There is also a \"door vent screen\" which is rectangular on this dishwasher and is located on the top, interior side of of the door; it's made of plastic.  It simply pops off by carefully inserting a butter knife and prying it out from the inside of the door.  There are two interior tabs that hold it in place.  Here's what I did to correct a leak that had become pretty serious.  The tub gasket had calcium-like deposits adhered on the front side of the gasket.  I sprayed the gasket with a Lysol style cleaner and let it soak for a couple of minutes; then I used a super soft brush and cleaned the front of the gasket.  Starting at one end, I carefully pulled out the gasket and discovered \"crud\" along the side/back of the gasket; I cleaned the groove the gasket pushes into and reinserted the gasket.  I discovered the tub corner baffles easily pulled up/out of position; I removed them; cleaned them and the holding slot; and reinserted the baffles.  From researching, I learned on a blog that if the door vent is clogged, unusual pressure will build inside and force water out.  I had no clue how the vent face came out so I inserted a flat blade along the edge of the vent and could see it giving way; with a little force, the vent door popped out and I discovered an unbelievably disgusting amount of soft slime crud inside the vent.  That got cleaned out and I snapped the vent grill back into place.  We've been using the dishwasher for about two weeks now since the maintenance and we have not seen even a drop of leaking water.  So, I must believe water leaking from the bottom side of the door can be attributed to the door/tub gasket, corner baffles, and clogged vent -- or a combination of all three.  You should also check to be sure the spray arms are sound -- they do have quite a bit of \"play\" in them, but the screws should securely hold them against their own gasket.  If cleaning these parts does not fix your leak, or if the gasket is actually deteriorated, then this is one of the parts you'll need.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4608, "id": 526798, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 613, "len_tokens": 772, "text": "I did not buy this part from Amazon, but I am posting detailed instructions to help anyone else who may be a novice at this. The instructions that came with the wheel were correct, but were too brief for us to fully understand them. (Updated 8/1/16 after I had to replace a rear roller)\n\nHow to replace ROLLERS (front roller part # 2166108, or rear roller part #2150304) for  Whirlpool Refrigerator model G2IXEFMWS00\n\nYou need 2 people for this job - primarily when tipping the fridge and propping it up.\n1. Unplug refrigerator or turn off breaker to the outlet it is plugged into\n2. Unload all contents in the refrigerator/freezer and remove door shelves (interior shelves can stay in, although it is best to make the refrigerator as light as possible)\n3. Roll the refrigerator out from the wall until you have enough space to walk and squat behind it. Since you have a broken wheel, try to lift it up at that corner so you don't damage your floor.\n4. Remove the plastic grill at the front floor level. To remove filter cover, twist  turn to left and pull.\n5. Remove the plastic bolt cover for the freezer door bolts at the top of the cabinet\n6. Remove the  three freezer door bolts and lift the door off the post (5/16\")\n7. There are 3 bolts holding the refrigerator door on (5/16\"). Remove the inside most bolt. Loosen the other 2 bolts on the outside edge about \". Once loose the door will twist and lift off.\n8. Lower both level adjustment screws at the bottom front sides by turning left. Remove them completely (3/8\")\n9. Remove the rear bottom cardboard/particle board cover at the bottom of the back side. You can remove all screws (1/4\") except the one next to the electrical cable, and you likely will have enough room to reach behind it. The rear cover should flap freely.\n10. Remove the 4 bolts (1 at each front corner and 1 at each rear corner) that hold the base plate on. (3/8\") Once these are removed, push the base plate toward the back about 1 inch. At that point, it will drop down.\n11. Tip the refrigerator up on the side where you need to replace the roller by propping it up on one 2x4 (1 \"). Make sure the 2x4 is only under the lip of the outside box and not under the base plate.\n12. To replace FRONT ROLLER , push down on the base plate until it extends about 1\" below the bottom of the refrigerator. Reach fingers inside from the front, and push the pin out that holds the wheel assembly, remove the pin, install the new wheel assembly, and replace the pin. Make sure the wheel is pointing down (rotated toward the front) and not pushed back up in the cabinet. To replace a REAR ROLLER, you should be able to push the base plate back far enough to access the pin without pushing the plate down. Play with the base plate to line up the holes for reinserting the pin.\n13. Lower the refrigerator back to the floor.\n14. Push up on the base plate from underneath in the back, while pushing it forward. It needs to come all the way forward so you can see the base plate up against the bolt holes that hold the plate in the front.\n15. Reinstall all 4 corner bolts for the base plate.\n16. Then reverse the directions going backward from step 8, and you are done.\n\nThis document shows the door and roller parts (Cabinet Parts) and the base plate (Unit Parts)\n[...]", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4609, "id": 536518, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 556, "len_tokens": 787, "text": "*edit*  I fixed the poor design of the burners.  Read below to see why the burners were so frustrating to me.\n\nThe fix:  I drilled a 3/16\" hole through the center of the large burner cover.  This gives me a bunson burner type center flame (at a little velocity) in the dead center of the cover that rises about 4\", kind of like a burning oil well.  The ring flames still work, I just now have two sources of heat -- the center flare and the ring.\n\nI tried heating a pan with a hamburger in it and it started to sizzle after only about 20 seconds.  That same sizzle would have taken 3 minutes or longer with the oringinal ring design.\n*end of edit*\n\nThere is something odd about the stovetop part of this range.  When the grills are install, the bottom of a pan sits about 1 1/2\" above the burner cover.  That seemed high to me.  The small burners in the back are 1 5/8\" from the pan bottom, and the two larger burners are 1 3/8\" below pan level.  With that large amount of clearance, a lot of the heat from the flames dissipates in the air before it hits the pan bottom.\n\nSo just for fun I took the grate off, and put my frypan right on top of the flame.  BAM!!!!  started heavily sizzling in like three seconds.  Put the grill back on, set the pan down, nothing.\n\nBottom line is that frying (or water heating) performance depends on how far the pan bottom is from the flame.  If it's like 1 1/2\" as it is with this stove, the performance suffers a lot.  I read some people thought it took too long to heat water, which didn't make sense to me given the high BTU from the center and the right front burners.  Well, know I know.  The grates simply remove the pan too far from the burner\n\nBottom line is about half of those BTUs are getting sucked up by the air between the burner and the pan.  Which means stuff heats up a lot more slowly, AND, the burners are heating up the house as much as they are heating the bottom of your pan.\n\n***edit***  I decided to really learn how much slower heating is up on the grate vs. sitting on the burner cover, so I did this experiment:\n\nTest:  How quickly I can get  of water, about 16 oz. to come to a boil\n\nPan used: Cuisinart 722-24NS Chef's Classic Nonstick Stainless 10-Inch Open Skillet\n\nMethod 1:  Pan resting directly on left front burner cover, burner to high\n\nVisible Steam:  1:12\nGentle boil, edge of pan:  2:00\nRolling Boil, edge of pan:  3:15\nRolling Boil, Center of pan:  4:10\n\nMethod 2:  Pan sitting on elevated Grate (the normal way)\n\nVisible Steam:  never, actually\nGentle boil, edge of pan:  5:15\nRolling Boil, edge of pan:  14:00\nRolling Boil, Center of pan:  never, gave up at 15:00, wasting too much gas\n\nNow what I'm trying to figure out is whether it is possible to raised the burners by about 3/4\"... I have to take a look at how they're mounted.  Just hate, hate, hate waiting a long time to boil water, and hate even more wasting so much gas to heat air and not the pot.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4610, "id": 542512, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 605, "len_tokens": 755, "text": "I did not buy this at Amazon. I mistakenly bought the front roller but I needed to replace the rear one, and was able to retrofit it. Here are installation instructions in case you, like me, find the ones that came with it to be a little too brief.\n\nFor front roller part # 2166108, or rear roller part #2150304, for Whirlpool Refrigerator model G2IXEFMWS00\n\nYou need 2 people for this job - primarily when tipping the fridge and propping it up.\n1. Unplug refrigerator or turn off breaker to the outlet it is plugged into\n2. Unload all contents in the refrigerator/freezer and remove door shelves (interior shelves can stay in, although it is best to make the refrigerator as light as possible)\n3. Roll the refrigerator out from the wall until you have enough space to walk and squat behind it. Since you have a broken wheel, try to lift it up at that corner so you don't damage your floor.\n4. Remove the plastic grill at the front floor level. To remove filter cover, twist  turn to left and pull.\n5. Remove the plastic bolt cover for the freezer door bolts at the top of the cabinet\n6. Remove the  three freezer door bolts and lift the door off the post (5/16\")\n7. There are 3 bolts holding the refrigerator door on (5/16\"). Remove the inside most bolt. Loosen the other 2 bolts on the outside edge about \". Once loose the door will twist and lift off.\n8. Lower both level adjustment screws at the bottom front sides by turning left. Remove them completely (3/8\")\n9. Remove the rear bottom cardboard/particle board cover at the bottom of the back side. You can remove all screws (1/4\") except the one next to the electrical cable, and you likely will have enough room to reach behind it. The rear cover should flap freely.\n10. Remove the 4 bolts (1 at each front corner and 1 at each rear corner) that hold the base plate on. (3/8\") Once these are removed, push the base plate toward the back about 1 inch. At that point, it will drop down.\n11. Tip the refrigerator up on the side where you need to replace the roller by propping it up on one 2x4 (1 \"). Make sure the 2x4 is only under the lip of the outside box and not under the base plate.\n12. To replace FRONT ROLLER , push down on the base plate until it extends about 1\" below the bottom of the refrigerator. Reach fingers inside from the front, and push the pin out that holds the wheel assembly, remove the pin, install the new wheel assembly, and replace the pin. Make sure the wheel is pointing down (rotated toward the front) and not pushed back up in the cabinet. To replace a REAR ROLLER, you should be able to push the base plate back far enough to access the pin without pushing the plate down. Play with the base plate to line up the holes for reinserting the pin.\n13. Lower the refrigerator back to the floor.\n14. Push up on the base plate from underneath in the back, while pushing it forward. It needs to come all the way forward so you can see the base plate up against the bolt holes that hold the plate in the front.\n15. Reinstall all 4 corner bolts for the base plate.\n16. Then reverse the directions going backward from step 8, and you are done.\n\nThis document shows the door and roller parts (Cabinet Parts) and the base plate (Unit Parts)\n[...]", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4611, "id": 543706, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 500, "len_tokens": 730, "text": "Don't...\nbuy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use.  This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models.  I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops.\n\nHere are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's \"Use and Care\" manual:\n\n500-series:\nhttp://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975580612\n(page 14)\n\n800-series:\nhttp://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975587312\n(page 16)\n\nFlexinduction:\nhttp://www.goedekers.com/assets/PDF/Bosch/bosch-nitp666suc-use-and-care-manual.pdf\n(page 15)\n\nI called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call.  I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off.  I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to \"just turn off\" on its own.  On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and \"get back to me with an answer\".\n\nWell, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer.  The support people don't know and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer).  How strange is that?  But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to \"an unknown at Bosch\".  The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals:\n\"Automatic time limitation\nIf the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. \"F8\" and the residual heat indicator \"H/h\" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours).\"\n\nThe email also briefly revealed that \"a customer\" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations.  Whatsoever!  I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for \"safety reasons\" but no other details were offered.  Safety reasons?  Really?  Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state?  Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off  \"for safety reasons\"  Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others.\n\nI hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off?  Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off.\n\nBottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between \"1 and 10 hours\".  Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef for 4-5 hours.\n\nBosch engineers take notice!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4612, "id": 543719, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 500, "len_tokens": 731, "text": "Don't...\nbuy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use.  This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models.  I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops.\n\nHere are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's \"Use and Care\" manual:\n\n500-series:\nhttp://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975580612\n(page 14)\n\n800-series:\nhttp://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975587312\n(page 16)\n\nFlexinduction:\nhttp://www.goedekers.com/assets/PDF/Bosch/bosch-nitp666suc-use-and-care-manual.pdf\n(page 15)\n\nI called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call.  I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off.  I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to \"just turn off\" on its own.  On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and \"get back to me with an answer\".\n\nWell, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer.  The support people don't know, and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer).  How strange is that?  But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to \"an unknown at Bosch\".  The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals:\n\"Automatic time limitation:\nIf the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. \"F8\" and the residual heat indicator \"H/h\" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours).\"\n\nThe email also briefly revealed that \"a customer\" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations.  Whatsoever!  I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for \"safety reasons\" but no other details were offered.  Safety reasons?  Really?  Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state?  Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off  \"for safety reasons\"  Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others.\n\nI hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off?  Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off.\n\nBottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between \"1 and 10 hours\".  Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it for 4-5 hours to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef.\n\nBosch engineers take notice!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4613, "id": 543947, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 500, "len_tokens": 730, "text": "Don't...\nbuy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use.  This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models.  I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops.\n\nHere are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's \"Use and Care\" manual:\n\n500-series:\nhttp://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975580612\n(page 14)\n\n800-series:\nhttp://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975587312\n(page 16)\n\nFlexinduction:\nhttp://www.goedekers.com/assets/PDF/Bosch/bosch-nitp666suc-use-and-care-manual.pdf\n(page 15)\n\nI called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call.  I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off.  I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to \"just turn off\" on its own.  On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and \"get back to me with an answer\".\n\nWell, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer.  The support people don't know and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer).  How strange is that?  But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to \"an unknown at Bosch\".  The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals:\n\"Automatic time limitation\nIf the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. \"F8\" and the residual heat indicator \"H/h\" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours).\"\n\nThe email also briefly revealed that \"a customer\" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations.  Whatsoever!  I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for \"safety reasons\" but no other details were offered.  Safety reasons?  Really?  Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state?  Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off  \"for safety reasons\"  Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others.\n\nI hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off?  Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off.\n\nBottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between \"1 and 10 hours\".  Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef for 4-5 hours.\n\nBosch engineers take notice!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4614, "id": 545197, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 623, "len_tokens": 754, "text": "This is a good little machine for the price. Having said that it is much more labor intensive than using a conventional washer and dryer. I definitely don't look forward to doing laundry, however I have to admit that it is satisfying to have clean clothes without having to pay an arm and a leg at the laundromat! Plus, even though it takes more time and effort than if I had my own washer and dryer, it takes less time than if I had to pack up my clothes and drive to the laundromat. So I just grin and bear it.\n\nInsofar as how it cleans...well I was surprised that it cleans my clothes very well. I work in a factory, and while I didn't think that my clothes were that dirty, the wash water always turns dirty and brown, lol. So it's really getting the dirt out, I believe even more than if I had used an HE washer, that didn't use much water. It does, unfortunately tangle and twist my clothes together, however. When you're taking them out you have to untwist them from each other before you can dry them, but it hasn't seemed to cause any damage.\n\nIt's also difficult to fill. I tried the completely ineffectual hose, but as I'm in an apartment I don't want to modify the faucet or anything, so I just use a bucket and consider that I'm getting a workout while I'm washing clothes, lol.  I personally fill the wash tub to wash them, drain that, and fill it with fresh water to rinse. It works well for me. I think that other people rinse them in the spin dryer part, but without a hose I'm not sure how I'd do that.\n\nThe spin dryer has good and bad points as well. Yes, it does spin rapidly, and does a decent job with getting the water out. I've never used it beyond two minutes, and usually I just use one, because very little water comes out after the first minute, and, because I'm in a third floor apartment and I don't want the vibrations to bother the downstairs neighbors, I balance it on the side of the tub and hold the washer while It's spinning. The spin dryer doesn't hold much either, and you will have to dry your clothes in bunches rather than the whole thing.\n\nThe dryer does have a huge flaw: small items are pulled out through centrifuge and sucked out onto the outside of the spin dryer basket. This wouldn't be so bad, but I had an issue where my dryer was absolutely not draining and I couldn't figure it out...lo and behold I finally saw two washcloths down there, blocking the drain. It was a pain to get them out, and I finally resorted to turning the whole washer/dryer apparatus upside down in the tub. I'm being more careful now, and trying to put small items on the bottom, but it could still happen. It does come with a plastic disc that you put on top of the clothes in the dryer basket, presumably to prevent this from happening, but it still did.\n\nSo it's not caviar, it's more like a plain tuna sandwich that is better than nothing. I would buy it again to avoid the laundromat, if that means anything. (I have to admit though that I only use this for clothes, not sheets and towels as I don't know where I'd dry them, so I do utilize my apartment's laundry or a laundromat some, but not nearly as much.) It does what it says though: washes your clothes very clean, and dries them to a little more than damp. Best wishes for your own washing!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4615, "id": 545240, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 719, "len_tokens": 799, "text": "This purchase was a regrettable mistake that I made. I bought the Samsung clothes dryer because I had such a good experience with their TV. It does dry clothes, but what a pain to use, and a risk to my clothes.\n\nThe sensor dry in my opinion has only been useful when drying towels or large loads. It doesnt work nearly as well as my sensor on my 40 year old kenmore that I got rid of.\n\nI have used this machine for over four months now and am totally dissatisfied with it. Its a hassle to use because the sensor dry feature in my experience is super sensitive to fabric weight and load size. I mean SUPER SENSITIVE, and if you don't get it right you have to fiddle around trying to finish drying, or worse it may just shrink the clothes by frying them. Mine is biased to over drying the clothes big time and Samsung advises that is my fault for not getting the load size figured out correctly. And,I can not envision myself ever needing to use very dry or more dry.\n\nThe thing that makes it worse is that the manual timer is extremely limited. Its called manual, but the only four choices you have are 20, 40, 60, or 80 minutes. So, I tried using damp dry so as not to shrink my long sleeve shirt sleeves. Ive had a lot of experience washing and drying over a thousand loads of laundry and Im pretty good at estimating the amount of time a not dry enough yet load will take to finish drying without shrinking my shirt sleeves, but there is no way to select anything less than 20 minutes with this machine.\n\nWhen I first started using it (before I knew I had to be careful) the dryer shrunk a load of my long sleeve shirts, and fried a load of my underwear. I always wash my shirts separately and my underwear separately.\n\nIn summary, The automatic sensor dry is not something that can be relied on to take the effort out of drying your clothes, and the manual timer is very limited. Its a real hassle to dry anything other than towels or a big load of rugged clothing. My poor experience with Samsung service will be considered when deciding on whether to purchase other Samsung products.\n\nFor those who are interested there are more details below:\n\nI am very dissatisfied with the performance of the automatic sensor dry. I tried to return or exchange it with Best Buy right away but they would not do an exchange, and referred me to the manufacturer who I promptly called. Samsung quickly sent a repair tech out, and the only thing he did was start the empty dryerwatch as it ran for a brief time and shut off. Then he said it was operating normally and there was nothing wrong. That was it. He did not test anything more, and never even brought a tool box or any instrument in. I continued to call Samsung and was eventually, after much time on the phone, placed in contact with a supervisor, who continued to tell me it was operating as designed and they also denied my request for an exchange.\n\nA minor annoyance that was not noticeable until I began to use the machine is that when its leveled properly nothing will stay on top of it while it is running. The top tappers off quite a bit at about 9 inches from the from of the unit and there is no lip at the edge. Anything set on top will fall off the front. The paint durability of the top from a scratch perspective is poor. It is really very soft and the top of the machine scratches so easily. I bought a rubber mat with enough friction on the bottom of it to stay put, as well as to protect the paint from scratching and that issue is solved. Samsung obviously doesnt want me to set anything on top of the machine.\n\nOn the positive side, the filter size is generous and is easy to clean, the machine is an attractive design, the wrinkle prevent is a convenient feature and works well, and the paint color is a pleasing modern white.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4616, "id": 548000, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 570, "len_tokens": 736, "text": "The OEM part was a 3/4 inch snap disc that opens at 130C to protect the Kitchenaid oven while this part, the Clinac CS-7, is a 1/2 inch snap disc unit that opens at 150C. Unfortunately, our oven is rated for 4.8KW  which requires 20A at 240VAC while the Clinac CS-7 is only rated at 7A though it should last a long time if it only activates during a clean cycle. A few months ago our oven failed. It actually turned out to be a bad cooling blower that allowed the temperature to rise too high and trip the thermal cutout. The repair guy replaced the old unit with a CS-7 bearing the correct part number and installed a new cooling fan. The first time my wife ran the cleaning cycle yesterday the CS-7 failed. Since they say it is a replacement for the 4452223, the original OEM part number, I'm giving it a one star since the original OEM part lasted 13+ years and probably over 25 cleaning cycles.\n\nAfter talking to my repair guy I'm looking for a different part to use in my oven. According to him he has a lot of clients with the same problem on KitchenAid, Whirlpool and Dacor ovens. These units fail during the cleaning cycle and have to be replaced before the oven will heat again.\n\nUpdate 3/27/18: I think I have found another part that will perform better than this part in my oven. I found it on Amazon for $5.99 and I bought the last two (hopefully more coming in soon). It is the Emerson 3L01-300 Snap Disc Limit Control. It opens up at 300F (149C) and self resets when the temperature drops to 250F (121C). I don't know if Emerson is the manufacturer or not since the label on it shows it's a Thermodisc 60T11. It's rated for 100,000 cycles at 25A and 240VAC with a resistive load like in an oven. The benefit of the self resetting feature is that it will automatically turn the circuit back on after the space behind my oven cools to 250F so I won't have to pull the oven out, remove the back panel and either manually reset the unit or replace it. Since it was half the price of the other units available I purchased two of them. This is not a surface mount type unit so I will use 3/8in standoffs under the mounting flange to just bring it in contact with the surface being monitored. Since it automatically resets, and thus is subject to wear over time, I'm going to mount two 3L01-300s in series. One of them will likely have a slightly lower turn-off temperature and thus do the switching, if it ever gets hot enough to turn off, so that unit will take the wear and tear. If it ever welds the contacts together then the second unit will still act as a fail safe. I'm pretty comfortable with the 3L01-300s since it is the same design (different mount though) that was in my oven originally. It was also made by Thermodisc and was a model 60F24, a one-shot 130C turnoff that had to be replaced if it ever tripped. I'm not an appliance repair guy so I can't guarantee anything but I thought I would share this info since so many people have problems with the aftermarket units tripping during the cleaning cycle.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4617, "id": 550928, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 616, "len_tokens": 797, "text": "Don't plan a brew day to coincide with delivery and inspect it well. My unit came damaged, but my yeast starter was already going and I had taken the day off work to brew.\n\nBut for the price, this gives unit gives you (almost - see accessories) everything you need in a much smaller space than a typical three pot burner/brew sculpture setup would. The unit is well made, and when paired with the free app, makes brewing a breeze without taking the hands on art out of the picture like a picobrew or other fully automated unit would.\n\nI have made two brews in a week already. One I did in my backyard, and the second in my kitchen on a rainy day. This gives you an idea of the portability of this system as well. Something you just can't do with a huge brew sculpture.\n\nPackaging\nTerrible. I guess it could have been worse, the unit could have arrived non functional. Even though the packaging did not appear damaged, the unit came with several dings and dents. I have attached a photo of the worst. It does not effect usability, it just made me very sad. The counter-flow wort chiller on the other hand was not so lucky. The unit comes packaged inside the GrainFather with a plastic ring to prevent it from damaging the stainless brew kettle (great!). But something punched a hole in the outflow hose of the wort chiller (photo attached). I have made it work by setting the unit upside down until I can repair the hose. In this orientation it sucks air and aerates rather than spraying wort all over. Because I feel I could repair the hose, I did not request a return. It seemed wasteful.\n\nQuality\nThe unit is well made. It seems the stainless is a bit thin as you can see in the attached photo. There were several dings that were already in the GrainFather when it arrived on my doorstep, and I do feel that I have to be careful not to bang it up even more.  Time will tell with the pump.\n\nAssembly\nThis is nitpicking, but the temp control unit has a supporting bracked bolted to the grainfather. It blocks access to the screws used to permanently mount the temp control unit. I had to remove it to do this. Other than that, its a breeze.\n\nPump\nThe pump seems to be perfectly paired to the unit and the shutoff flow valve makes it very easy to control the flow of the wort during mash. Having the pump right on the boil kettle makes everything so much easier. Nuff said. The only issue is that if you are adding your hops directly to the boil, you will find that your flow becomes quickly restricted during cooling. This can cause a much slower chill period than you are expecting. I hate hop socks. I like my hops to flow free.\n\nAccessories\nA hop spider would be a great accessory to include with this unit (see Pump). Heck, include that shiny mash paddle I see in all the videos and you really up the ante with this unit. Taking the lid off during a boil can be a challenge as well. Wear gloves and get one of these&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Lunarland-Lil-Devil-Oven-Pull-Joie-Hot-Bakeware-Rack-Heat-Resistant-Safety-Puller/dp/B01DZIWFQU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Lunarland Lil Devil Oven Pull - Joie Hot Bakeware Rack Heat Resistant Safety Puller</a>. Works pretty good for lifting the lid through the hole in the middle. You are still going to need a second pot to boil or the companion Sparge Water Heater GrainFather also sells.\n\nOverall\nI love this unit. I probably will sell off my other gear!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4618, "id": 555396, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 647, "len_tokens": 786, "text": "After reading many reviews about washing machines before making a decision, I decided to purchase this GE washer. I've always liked GE products, but after owning one of their previous HE models for about four years and being terribly disappointed with it's performance I almost purchased a competitor's product. I'm happy that I didn't.\n\nNote that this is not a paid review.\n\nNow for the review:\n\nCleaning - 4 stars. This top load HE washer gets clothes clean. I would rate my previous GE HE at two stars, so a great improvement. I considered going back to an agitator washer but worried about capacity and the detrimental effect that an agitator has on clothing. The only reason I didn't rate a 5 is that I haven't tried to clean grass stains yet. It's winter time here so I have no grass stains to work with.\n\nCapacity - 5 stars. The 4.6 Cu. Ft tub has plenty of room for larger articles, including a king size quilt that I recently washed. The last load washed consisted of 4 pairs of jeans, a pair of work pants, 6 shirts, including a 2X flannel shirt and a 2X sweatshirt, and a few pairs of socks. There are settings on the washer for washing jeans separately from other colored articles, but that isn't the way we wash laundry in our household.\n\nFeatures - 5 stars. As mentioned above, there are plenty of settings for your laundry, 13 total, including one to sanitize with Oxy. There six water temp settings, four levels of cleaning (light through extra heavy), and four levels of spin cycle from no spin through max. All are controlled with easy touch buttons. If that seems like a lot of choices, no worry. You can set the \"my cycle\" button to remember your settings. I especially like the  slide out detergent and softener dispenser tray located at the top of the tub that mixes the detergent with the load as the washer fills. This also makes cleaning easy, although I've washed more than 30 loads and there is no residue showing yet. If you've experienced clothing stains in the past from fabric softener dispenser build-up, worry no more. For those who remember warm water rinse, that feature has also returned with this model. There is also a \"deep fill\" button, which I use frequently. Press that button and 5-6 more gallons of water are added. I like to see my clothes bathing in water. Also included is a \"deep rinse\" button, recommended for use with fabric softener. This uses a bit more water and increases cycle times over the 34 minutes they boast about, but I feel more at ease. The glass top makes it easy to see what is going on in there.\n\nNoise - 3 stars. This compares to 1 star on my previous washer. I don't worry a lot about noise as my washer isn't setting next to the television. It does make some odd noises during the wash, also not a bother to me.\n\nOne drawback is the dreaded walk that washers sometimes do. The only time I've experienced this issue is when the load became unbalanced on the king size quilt. If this happens, press the pause button and wait about 30 seconds for the lid to unlock to situate the items in the tub.\n\nThe washer \"walk\" and the fact that I haven't tried to clean grass stains yet is my reason for rating at 4 stars instead of 5. I could have spent up to $200 more for another competitor's top load or twice as much for a larger capacity front load but I'm happy that I didn't. We aren't a large family and the 4.6 capacity is plenty enough for us. If you fall into that category, do some shopping for the lowest price and I think you'll also be pleased.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4619, "id": 560618, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 594, "len_tokens": 786, "text": "I am a self-proclaimed \"Messy Marvin\"; I just am.  Clumsy, clutzy, sloppy, messy... so many adjectives to describe the walking disaster area that I am.  However, I LOVE to create in the kitchen--cooking, baking, prepping; it's all fun to me. The trail that I leave behind me is not so much fun.  And, it seems that whenever I try to be most careful, THAT's when something explodes or oozes down the counter, or (inevitably) between the counter and the stove.  Therefore, I had been searching for a \"gap-filler\" for just this purpose.  I have looked at so many different ones, added them to my Amazon cart, then changed my mind for one reason or another.\nWhen I stumbled across this set, I decided to take the plunge.  I was pleasantly surprised to discover how pliable they are--I kept thinking that there's no way any of these crack-covers will fit my uneven counter tops.  Low and behold, a little silicone is all it takes to save the day.  They set nicely in place and because of the tackiness of the silicone, stay in place.  This,  though, also attracts lots of dust and fuzz, too, so you'll need to be sure to wipe them frequently.  I find that my Norwex kitchen cloth removes the lint with ease.  Black seam protectors may not show the dirt as readily, though, as the white ones.\nThe set in the stock photo when I'd ordered them was black, so I had expected to receive them in black.  Mine arrived as White.  At first I was bothered by the discrepancy, since my stove-top is black and counters are dark.  The body of my stove is white, though, so it really is not too clashing.\nOverall, my opinion of these is favorable and lines up with the company's statements:\n  THE SET OF 2 MULTI-PURPOSE SILICONE OVEN SEAM PROTECTOR; while it can be utilized to seal the gap between the stove and counter, it can also be used to cover the space between your counter-top and dishwasher,washer and dryer and other home appliances,  as well as other gaps that you have difficulties cleaning.\n ELEGANT DESIGN; once you install this stove and counter gap cover, you will be surprised by how well it fits in the decor of your kitchen, featuring an elegant design that makes it the absolute best choice. it does't look intrusive in your kitchen.\n HIGH-QUALITY SILICONE; The Practical Ideas Silicone Oven Seam Protector has been designed with top-notch silicone, which is very durable, special flexible material will keep always flat to your stove and countertop won't warp or melt,it can resist high temperatures up to 446 F and 230 C.\n EASY TO CLEAN;  Stop feeding insects and rodents at your own kitchen. Due to being made of  high-quality 100%  food-grade silicone, the Practical Ideas, oven seam protector can be cleaned in just a few minutes with a damp cloth, Its also dishwasher safe. - FDA Approved -\n GREAT ADHESION; unlike cheapish products, this oven seam protector  has the flexibility needed to properly fit to both even and uneven surfaces, ensuring that it always stays flat and securely fixed. DIMENSIONS 20 1/4 x 2 1/4 x .5 Can be cut to fit your size.\n\n*****Complete with a 100% Money back guarantee.*****\nThat part is key--if you don't like these, they stand behind them and will give your money back.  That makes it a pretty secure bet--why not try them?\nI had received this item at a discount in exchange for the opportunity to share my opinion and honest review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4620, "id": 570450, "interval": [700, 800], "len_words": 625, "len_tokens": 782, "text": "Well, I can't speak to its long-term longevity as I have only had it for a few months. But I can speak to how well it works as well as its relative noisiness (or not).\n\n1) This machine has a LOT of customizable settings. Additionally, with the 4 different small basins inside the drawer for different laundry liquids, it can get confusing at first. I came from a very old top-loader with limited settings. You put your powdered detergent and non-chlorine bleach whitener in with the load. Later, you hope you time it right to add fabric softener.\n\nWith this, it's all done automatedly, and has to be done with liquids. There's a small basin each for Pre-Wash, Detergent (where I put liquid non-chlorine bleach), Fabric Softener, and a bin for Chlorine Bleach use (which I don't). Each bin has a minimum and maximum fill line (as the machine uses siphoning). The 617 also has an extra pump and reservoir to mix the liquids prior to them reaching your clothes. This was designed to render a superior cleaning, and reviews attest that this might be the best cleaning machine on the market.\n\nWhat I do know is that, with all of the customization for temperature, spin rate, amount of soil, and much more, that it's very gentle on my clothes. And as a front loading washer, it uses much less water than a top-loader, so it's much more eco-friendly.\n\nRegarding noise, well, it's actually really quiet, certainly compared to my old top-loader washing machine. When it was first installed, I noticed it rocking a lot when it was spinning dry, but I called the store I bought it from and they sent the guys who delivered it to recheck the balance. Sure enough, it was off. They readjusted the feet to balance the machine, and once they did that, the machine is really quiet and doesn't rock (as long as whatever is in the machine is not poorly distributed). Some machines are direct drives. This one is a belt-drive. There's good and bad with each. Belt-drives help absorb some vibration. That's probably why Electrolux offers the 2nd floor guarantee. But belts can wear out. The nice thing is that belts are cheap to replace. Direct Drives? Well, the motor is attached to the basket, so if the motor is somehow off, you'll hear it and feel it. AND, direct drives are VERY expensive to fix. But a direct drive can last longer than a belt drive (Again, think of how a pulley system requires less power on a motor, vs the power needed to directly spin the basket). Kind of a toss-up, in some ways.\n\nFunny that it's very \"futuristic looking\", even reminding me of Dave the computer from the film, 2001.\n\nNow let me add this - I have read some reliability issues about this machine. Our dealer even said that they have had issues getting parts on a timely manner from Electrolux. Okay. We took a gamble on a floor model. The cost was about 60% of retail. We paid for a 5 year extended warranty. We figured that with the extended warranty, it would be a worthwhile gamble and still less expensive than the equivalent level LG or Maytag front loader. Because NO washers made in the 2010s are going to last the way machines from the 1970s did, any washer is likely to be a gamble. I'd still get an extended warranty. If this machine were to only last beyond the 5 years of the warranty, we'd still be ahead due to the great buy we got on it.\n\nBut as a machine designed to clean clothes, it does that job exceptionally well, in my experience.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4621, "id": 4, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 619, "len_tokens": 806, "text": "As I began to read this book, I was again reminded of how deceptively complicated the word \"stranger\" is. It could refer to someone we have never heard of, of course, but it could also refer to someone we have met or heard about. We know their name but nothing else about them. Then there is another type of \"stranger\": someone we think we know well but really don't. We have false assumptions, a mindset, about who they are and aren't, what they can and can't do, and whether or not they would be willing to provide or receive assistance.\n\nAlan Gregerman wrote this book to explain how and why - with all due respect to the importance of one's family members, friends, and associates -- it is imperative to engage, learn from, and collaborate with strangers. \"People who are very different from us are essential to our growth and success as individuals and organizations.\" Just as Henry Chesbrough has devised an open business model, it could be said that Gregerman offers an open people model. How so?\n\n\"Each day we pass by more than one hundred people that could change our lives but we never make the time or effort to connect. The best way to solve any challenge or create any new opportunity is to begin by being curious about the world around us and realize that it is filled with remarkable people, insights, and possibilities.\" Nonetheless, there are those false assumptions and, perhaps, at least some concern about being rejected and feeling embarrassed or even foolish.\n\nHe suggests a new paradigm individuals and organizations \"wise enough\" to incorporate exploration and openness in their DNA. Here's its formula:\n\nBusiness and Personal Success =\nWhat I Already Know +\nMy Knowledge or Understanding Gap +\nA Stranger (or Strangers) Who Can Fill It\n\nHis citation of one of my favorite Charles Kettering quotations is dead-on:\n\n\"Where there is an open mind there will always be a frontier.\"\n\nGregerman devotes a great deal of attention to explaining how to develop the necessary mindset, one that embraces rather than recoils from exploration and openness. There are four core principles that provide its foundation: humility, curiosity, respect, and purpose. For those who are especially reluctant to become explorers of what is -- for them -- not only unfamiliar but perhaps terrifying territory, I presume to suggest one other: the courage to which Jack Dempsey refers when explaining that \"champions get up when they can't.\"\n\nThese are among the passages that caught my eye:\n\no Questions that strangers can help to answer (Page 9)\no The Race to the South Pole (20-28)\no What Science Tells Us (30-39)\no From Mindset to Guiding Principles (51-56)\no Helicopters. Hairstyles and Cars That Won't Collide (64-73)\no Finding the Right Strangers (78-84)\no Recognizing the Genius in Everyone (89-93)\no Rethinking Employee Engagement (96-103)\no Why Collaborate? (110-118)\no The New World of Customers (131-134)\no Understanding and Empowering Strangers (138-143)\no The Promise of Strangers (152-155)\no Changing the Game (158-163\no Getting Past the First Bite (174-176)\no Essential Tools for Implementation (189-201)\n\nWhen concluding his book, Alan Gregerman acknowledges the difficulty while stressing the importance of \"taking the first step\" toward understanding the potential importance of strangers to us and (yes) our potential importance to them. He observes, \"As humans we have the amazing ability to be open and to dream, imagine, explore, learn, connect, share, collaborate, innovate, and grow, to go big instead of going home. So get out there and find the stranger or the [strange] idea that could change your life.\" Who knows? We may be that stranger or have that idea that someone else needs. Nothing ventured....", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4622, "id": 1243, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 497, "len_tokens": 819, "text": "Bought a bunch of these replacement filters (10, I believe) for my Honeywell 2000 series humidifier.\nThis \"enviracaire\" blue wrapping was a new thing for me.&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/HONEYWELL-ENVIRACAIRE-HAC-504-Replacement-Filter-Pad/dp/B00007E7RZ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">HONEYWELL/ENVIRACAIRE HAC-504 Replacement Filter Pad</a>&nbsp;Never seen it before, but figured what the heck, maybe it's new technology & will improve the filter's capability.\n\nWRONG!!\n\nMy experience has been just the opposite.  1) It doesn't last as long, working only 2-4 weeks before it's efficacy diminishes, whereas the 'older' filters with the plastic/wire mesh would easily last 3-4 months, sometimes longer depending on use.  2) Using the old filters, I would often take them out after some heavy use, clean them, and descale them before continuing to use them.  Only after months of use & hard build-up would they lose their efffectiveness & need to be changed.  With these \"enviracaire\" filters the build up isn't heavy at all, it maybe something else (see #5 below), they just lose their effectiveness very quickly.\n\nRead more...\n\n3) I've been using humidifiers for nearly 9 years.  I have a wine cellar & walk-in humidor, and for those of you who partake in those hobbies, you know how important it is to maintain proper storage conditions.  So you might say that, yes, I do have experience in the use of humidifiers and environmental control.  4) I bought my last batch of (these) replacement filters from KAZ.  When I began using the filters & encountering problems I contacted kaz to complain.  Well, the customer service person who contacted me proceeded to tell me how it must be MY HUMIDIFIER that's not working properly as the filters work fine in hers!  RIGHT!!!!!  Does she use hers as extensively as I use mine?!  I've been using the current humidifier(s) for three years with no prior problems to this!!!\n\nMORE . . .\n\n5) Now here's the worse part, IMO.  WHAT'S WITH THE FILMY/MOLDY STUFF THAT BUILDS UP?!  When I began using these \"enviracaire\" filters, I began seeing a filmy, moldy build up in my humidifier's water system.  Even after I thoroughly clean the filter housing & install a new filter, at about the 2-4 week mark (when the filter's efficacy starts to diminidsh), the unit gets this filmy/moldy build-up in the filter housing compartment and in the water (but it doesn't get into the tank).  Whether I use a few drops of a bacteriostatic or descaling in the water tank or not doesn't make a difference.  Never seen that before, never seen it with the older filter types!!  This filmy stuff may be the reason for the decreased function of the filetr, at least that's what I suspect.\n\nSo!  Should you buy this filer?\n\nYou decide.  Personally, I think that the manufacturer needs to know about these problems and take care of them.\nAs for me, I'm trying desperately to find the older style filters that had a wire-like/plastic outer mesh.&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Honeywell-HAC504-Replacement-Humidifier-Filter/dp/B0000WM2IG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Honeywell HAC504 Replacement Humidifier Filter</a>&nbsp;They seemed to work just fine!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4623, "id": 1854, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 654, "len_tokens": 841, "text": "Total success.  I hate those metal louvered things, and big-surprise, they don't keep pests out of the house.  A neighbor's dryer had stopped working entirely a few years back, upon his return from an extended inlaw visit (part of the reason I bought this, as you'll soon know).  Due to his limited retirement income, I helped him pull the dryer out, and we poked around to see just what had the dryer belly-up.  Maybe we two knuckleheads could fix it by accident?  Anyway... Guess what will stop a clothes dryer?  Answer:  pecans - lots and lots of pecans\n\nA mouse (we guess) started putting back pecans for the winter, and by remaining steadily at it for we estimate the entire couple of weeks he was away, managed to get enough pecans into this dryer to jam up the whole works!  I couldn't believe it, but true story.\n\nAnyway, fast-forward to me getting this vent thing and using it.  It fits standard (4-in?) extension dryer pipe (solid kind, not flex/corrugated) that you would run through a wall, and sealed up perfectly just pushed in - you can seal further at your option, which I did.  Then, you pop 6 holes in the side of your house, run in some screws, and voila!  You have something I associate more closely to a \"commercial-duty\" vent solution than the old standard.\n\nEverything that's true about occluding pests is just as good for cold air.  You don't stop it from being cold outside, but you stop cold air from pouring in through your dryer.  In the right weather and prevailing wind, I could keep beer cold in my dryer (when not in use), to say nothing of the energy wasted by chilling that whole end of the house.  This was probably far and away the largest inefficiency with my heating/cooling - you'll hear builders talk about 'the envelope'.  Well, mine had a large gap in it, through which I was throwing money each month.  Guaranteed, the first February alone, this paid for itself.  I've never felt even a puff of moving air come back through this thing.  It's still connected to the outside air, and not particularly insulated or anything, so it isn't magically warm ... but it's the air movement I wanted to stop, and that's what it did.  I'm trying to guess just which way the wind would have to blow and swirl to defeat this design.  My guess is, if that ever happens, you have bigger problems at that particular moment, considering shingles are held down on one end largely by gravity too...just sayin'.\n\nThis is particularly important the closer to the ground or more easily accessible your vent location is.  You cannot install this upside down or sideways though.  The inner cap floats up and allows air to escape when the dryer is pushing air, and when the dryer is off, the cap floats back down and seals perfectly by being 100% in line with gravity (in contrast to a flapper that is based more on 'leaning' closed, rather than 'falling' closed).  I say that to say this:  critters know how to nose and pry their way into things, but don't generally posess thumbs and all the finer motor skills and intellectual prowess to arrive at \"YOU MUST lift both sides of the cap straight up at the same time, or it'll bind in the housing\".  Truth be known, I've witnessed full many a human found wanting in that particular comprehension...  Anyway, forced air does that nicely ... mice, not so much.\n\nBOILERPLATE:  It beats the standard vent cap/flapper (which my neighbor had intact on his older home), and I dig it.  It also doesn't rattle/flap in the wind, so it's the silent option.  I generally go for the cheapest thing first if possible, but this seemed to be, and later proved to be so superior that I don't miss the extra duckets.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4624, "id": 3108, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 683, "len_tokens": 843, "text": "I'd like to thank all of you for your reviews of this machine.  It made the decision to buy it a whole lot easier.\n\nI've had this washer for about 2 1/2 weeks and couldn't be happier.  No leaks of any sort. No problems hooking it up, well, except that the gooseneck on the drain hose is too small to hang over my sink, so I tie it to the faucet.  Eventually I'll replace the hose with a better one but it's not a big deal.\n\nTo roll it around, I bought an adjustable file caddy, like you put under a filing cabinet to move it around. Made it as small as I could (14\"x18\") and while it's not a perfect fit, it makes moving it from the sink to the closet and back a lot easier.  I take it off to wash since the casters on it don't lock. Good thing it's a light machine.\n\nIn about 14 loads I've only had to balance a load once when I washed a single pair of jeans instead of my usual two.\n\nAs far as detergent goes, I switched to liquid detergents a long time ago, but I've found that even the regular detergent, as opposed to the new HE ones, do not create a lot of suds.  I'm use to seeing more suds in a big washer so one time I did put in 3 oz. but all that did was force me to run the rinse cycle again to get the soap off my clothes.  That's how you learn.  But it still did not oversuds and leak.  I normally use between 1.5 and 2 oz. of detergent for a large load and that seems to do the job.\n\nHow dry the clothes come out seems to depend on the type of material.  Sheets come out almost dry.  Towels and jeans have quite a bit of water left in them but an extra spin cycle takes out a lot more.  Everything else seems to fall in between.  But I can do a load at night, hang everything up and they're all dry by morning.  As far as wrinkling and clothes being knotted up, I don't find it any worse than any of the full sized washers I've used.  At least I don't have to untangle my clothes from the agitator.\n\nI finally had a chance to try the Reset control and it worked fine.  I started out with a medium load and decided after it had started that it should have been a large load.  Just turned the knob to Reset and put it at Large.  It stopped pulsating, added more water and then started washing again.\n\nThe manual says it will stop in the wash cycle if you lift the lid.  Mine doesn't but does if it's in the spin cycle, which to me is much more important.\n\nFunny, I thought the Jingle Bells that everyone mentions was going to be very loud and annoying but I don't find it that bad.  I know you can stop it by turning the machine off but I find that it gets rid of quite a bit of water in that last minute so I let it finish.\n\nOne comment about the pricing.  I'm in Canada and while we can get other Haier products, the washers aren't here yet so I had to find a place in the US that would ship to Canada.  That involves extra shipping costs, duty, taxes and then converting it to Canadian funds. I bought it for $169.99 US and my final cost in Cdn dollars was $337.00, which to me was a steal.  Every other machine I looked at locally and online, LG, Kenmore, GE, Danby, etc., would have cost me a minimum of $600, plus tax. I must admit that ordering something as big as a washing machine online was kinda freaky but it arrived here safely, right on schedule, and right to my door.\n\nI wouldn't hesitate to recommend this machine to anyone who lives in an apartment or for any other reason needs a small washer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4625, "id": 3156, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 702, "len_tokens": 871, "text": "This is the washer you should get if you are tight on space.  I am rarely at home, always between here and there, but I still can get my laundry done with this guy on the off-weekend that I've got an hour or two to spare on cleaning.  In my research, this was about the best mini-washer I could find.\n\nDon't bother getting the cheap kind; it is throwing your money away, and it is painstaking to do such small loads.  Also, you would have to wring out your clothes and wrinkle them, instead of having a spin cycle.\n\nI had some trouble with set up - I ended up with two random washers leftover.  So sometimes the part that connects the sink into the hose leaks, and sometimes the bottom of the washer piddles on the floor.  Still, it's never a big deal, as I keep it in the kitchen.  I think I may check the connection of the hose to the machine sometime.\n\nSears guys I have talked with in the past recommend having something around the base of washers, anyway (they would know, they've heard the horror stories) - I'm sure you could find a plastic bin at a dollar store or something.  The drain hose can be annoying to deal with in terms of finding a way to secure it.  The booklet assumes you have a utility sink that you can just hang it on, but I have a kitchen sink.  We've found that we can actually just lay it in our sink, but do get as much slack out of it as you can before you close the base of the machine.\n\nFor leakage, sink adapter, and drainage problems, several reviews here can give you good advice on things you can get at home depot.  I don't have a car, but for those of you who do, consider the idea if you need to.\n\nI have a Brita filter on my kitchen sink, so I can easily switch between it and the washer.  Also, keep in mind that the temperature that your sink is at is the temperature your clothes are washing at.  I have a \"lever\" sink - the kind that doesn't have two separate hot and cold controls to control temperature.  Basically I have it on the cold side when I first put clothes in (to remove stains), and move it to warm for the final rinse (to reduce wrinkles and stretching).\n\nHere's how I do a load:\n\n* Reset to \"low\" water level.  Turn the sink on to cold, start regular wash. When it starts to swish, I add less than  cup detergent. (Never add too much; too little is better than too much.)\n\n* I gently drop clothes in to about halfway up the tub. I reset to \"high\" water level.\n\n* I set my cell-phone for half an hour.  When it rings, the final rinse is about to begin.  I change the sink to warm and add half a measure of Downy.  Both these measures reduce the wrinkling you get when you air-dry clothing.\n\n* Wait a little longer, and jingle bells plays (off-key.  To turn off the jingle bells, just push down the washer button to \"off\".) Take out clothing immediately and hang.  (I purchased a well-rated Polder drying rack on Amazon.  Happy with it.)\n\nI have only had an unbalanced load once.  I could hear the pain from the other room, and then the washer stopped.  Again, it was only once.  I suggest you read the manual.  (I heard someone say they just opened and closed the top, which isn't helpful for an unbalanced load - you actually need to rearrange clothes!)  I never needed to level the washer.  I think people who are having problems are either stuffing their washers with clothes or haven't leveled the machine.  Another possibility is that they're misinterpreting the pause and clicking right before drainage as a problem.\n\nAs far as \"babysitting\" the machine goes, I wouldn't say it was necessary.  You should stay around more often than you would if you had a regular washer, but usually I'm doing chores in my apartment on laundry day so it isn't a big deal.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4626, "id": 12912, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 730, "len_tokens": 853, "text": "I like this fan. I replaced an \"over the range\" microwave with this fan. It fits the space perfectly and since it is a lot more shallow than a microwave I now have more room to cook on my stovetop - especially with the rear burners. I like the bright lights on this new fan too. I went for a mid-range price Broan because my kitchen set up (open concept room) requires a non-ducted fan (unless I wanted to hire a contractor for a major overhaul which I didn't). Logically, there is no way a non-ducted fan will ever give the same level of performance as a ducted to the outside fan, so it didn't seem to me worth it to pay more money for a more elaborate fan. Also, I noticed in reviews that the more expensive Broan fans have an automatic feature where if the fan senses too much heat it will turn itself on and run until the heat drops to a certain level - you can't turn it off manually when it goes into an override mode and reviewers said they hated that feature - I would hate it too. This model of Broan fan does NOT have that automatic on feature so that was a big plus for me. This model also has a completely smooth underside (other than the mesh filters) and I think it will be reasonably easy to clean. It has \"rocker\" style switches for the fan and the lights and I like that type of switch better than a soft touch button, I think they are more durable. Installation was fairly easy, my son-in-law helped me because it is awkward to hold something above your head while trying to fasten it. I purchased a cord (on Amazon, Broan HCK44 power cord kit) to modify the fan from direct wiring into a plug wiring and was therefore able to just plug it into the electrical outlet that had been used for the microwave. This was quite easy to do, the cord came with good instructions, just follow them carefully. I also purchased the charcoal filters that are used for non-ducted use of this fan (Amazon, Broan BPSF30 non-ducted filter set) and those were also easy to install. I also purchased the lightbulbs (Amazon, Sylvania #14700 50 watt PAR20 Halogen, set of two) and installed those in the fan after it was mounted. I'm telling you all of this so that if you want to install this fan non-ducted and not hard wired you will know you have to purchase these things separately (fan, power cord kit, charcoal filters and lightbulbs). It would be annoying to not have everything you need while doing the installation. As far as function I am happy with it. The fan has two speeds which is fine by me, high and low. The low is very quiet the high is louder but not unbearably loud. The lights also have low and high. In my opinion the low lighting would be a little too bright to function as a nightlight and halogen bulbs get hot so I wouldn't use the low setting as an overnight nightlight. The reason I'm not giving this product five stars is that the first one I bought arrived very poorly packaged, basically thrown in a huge box with a few handfuls of packing peanuts. The peanuts had even gotten inside of the fan blade part of the unit and I had to pick them out. I thought it was poorly packaged but unharmed and it wasn't until my son in law and I got the fan fully installed that we noticed a big \"ding\" right on the front top of the fan. It was such a bad dent I had to return the fan to Amazon which meant taking it down, packing it up and running to UPS with a big box. Amazon did pay for the return shipping and sent me a new fan (same model) without an additional charge. The replacement fan was very securely packaged in stiff foam. But it was a hassle, I had to wait for my son in law to have a free evening to help me again, plus the packaging and trip to UPS. If you receive your fan and it is poorly packaged, take it out and examine it very carefully before you install.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4627, "id": 13012, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 624, "len_tokens": 834, "text": "2 speeds.  Low is whisper, but not doing much except air out itself.  High speed noise is actually acceptable.  Unacceptable would be distracting normal sound of a tv or radio about 6' from the range.\nMy hood is about 27\" above the range, little high.  It sucks out the steam well enough.  Bit of frying smell lingers.\nThe filter mesh is rather light.\nI am using appliance bulbs.  Short flood light bulbs may be harder to screw in/out.\nThin metal construction.  Came with 7\" dia and 3x10 duct adapters.  Plastic round fan and the fan blades connected at the outer edge.  All in all, a small step up from cheap hoods.  Still prefer these push button controls than expensive circuit board based switches.\nedit: 10/27  Frying steak, even breakfast eggs, thinking the vent wasn't working well.  Removed the filters, put my hand close to the fan, then even my face.  I can feel a strong wind.  The fan is actually throwing out a lot of air away from the center of the fan.  There is also some holes on the top of the hood that is throwing out air.  The fan center has a decent suction, but overall, it does not work well.  It is actually kicking half the cooking smoke/smell away from the hood.\nUsing foil duct tape, I formed a barrier around the fan housing.  Now I can't feel the thrown out air.  But half of the hood area that's supposed to catch the smoke is disabled.  Using a cigarette smoke, I can see that suction goes to the fan, but I can't see it removing adequate amount of cooking smoke.\nI don't know if this matters, but this time I used 3x10 adapter for existing duct.  In another house, I had the 6\" round duct and the exhaust was better than this.  This is a cheap hood, working at half the capacity.\nCooking soy sauce marinated meat.  Smell is all over the first floor.  I am sick of this hood.  Took it off and put a round duct on.  Tested on the floor.  The \"ring\" around the fan blades does blow air away from the duct.  Sawed off the ring and the blow away is even worse.  These blades are just bad.  I used to have (another house) Whirlpool (homedepot) with a fan and just blades.  It worked much better than this.  Broan allure 2 was good, except its expensive control board.  QS130 is for looks only and some cheap, unthought-out off market fan stuck on it.  Do not buy this if you cook.\n\nfinal say on this hood:  I tried another fan blade.  It is broan replacement blade.  The motor shaft diameter is 5/16.  It isn't working.  I think any kind of fan blade creates a turbulence at the edge that throws some of the air away from the hood.  The flat top also deflects the air away.  I tried cutting the top to 9\" dia and create a funnel (instead of flat top) using foil tape.  None of this worked.  The blow back is just bad.  So  I bought a Whirlpool.  It was on sale at homedepot for 158.00 (black friday sale).  It is actually similar style to this, but better built and better fan blade.  It does not come with round duct adapter.  It has the blow back, but not as much as broan.\n\nWhy talk so much about a cheap hood?  I expected too much, I guess.  How cheap it is, I expected a vent hood to remove air, not actually blow it back into the kitchen.  I talked to the broan tech as well.  He blamed my duct.  I told him that I tested this disconnected from the duct, and he would not acknowledge it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4628, "id": 28213, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 742, "len_tokens": 851, "text": "After reading some of the reviews I figured I would take the time to say a few things....\n\nFirst off... The reason dryer moisture is vented outside the house is because the designers knew too much moisture in the house can cause mold and health issues.  That being said I can only recommend this product as winter use only when the humidity is low to start with.\n\nHere is a few thoughts.\n\n1.  As others has mentioned this is not really a filter per say.  It's simply a small bucket that has water on the bottom of the unit.  You add in the water yourself.  The thoughts are that the lint will hit the water and get suspended and out will come semi clean hot air from the drier.  I would caution that the moisture from the clothes will be dispelled into the room in a good amount.  You can solve this issue by turning on your furnace fan to recirculate the air around the house if you have a vent in your laundry room.  Or... Just get a small clip on fan and push the moist air out of the room.  I use the furnace fan option and have no issues.\n\n2. It will not catch all the lint.  You will have to dust a bit more in that room.\n\nMy purpose for this small unit is to add moisture in the house in the winter as it gets really dry down where I live.  Additionally if you stop to think about it.  All the air you are blowing outside the house is also leaking into the house in the same amount. Go outside and feel how hard the air comes out of the vent.  That same amount of air has to be pulled into the house so you are actually sucking out the heat you paid to make in the colder months and raising your bills.  In winter we have a heat pump that struggles in the winter to heat the house.  I decided to plug the outside hole from Nov to Feb and use that heat from the dryer I paid for to help warm the house instead of waste it outside.\n\nYou have to find the balance with this product.  We noticed some laundry soaps when vented in the house caused us to get head aches.  Obviously you need to be aware of this.  We bought a more natural soap and the issue went away.  You figure it cant be too bad because you are putting the clothes on your body but you really need to be aware of what you are doing.\n\nAll in all after a bit of trial and error we have a nice balance of adding moisture to the house as well as stopping heat loss.  Plus its nice to know the house is getting the benefit of the dryer heating the house in winter a bit.\n\nOne might ask.  Am I that cheap I am worried about dryer vent heat?  Overall no.  What I have done over the ten years I have lived in this house is look around at things I can do better.  As an example.. Install a clothes line in your basement and hang jeans and things you really don't need to dry.  Turn down the hot water heater to the lowest setting that you can tolerate showering. No reason to store extra heat your not using. Radiant barrier in the attic. Deflects heat back into the roof not your attic. Solar powered attic fan. Works like a charm and the sun powers it. House is all LED light bulbs.  Amazing difference in the power bill if you change them all. ( Save your old bulbs you take out and take them with when you move. LED bulbs last 10 years or more supposedly ) Install on off electric eyes on out door lights. Now we don't have to forget to turn off security lights in the daytime.  All these things together have chopped over $30 to $40 off my bill and I always have the lowest electric bill of my neighbors. That's over $400.00 bucks a year I can spend on buying other things on amazon. :)\n\nAnyhow you will have to be the judge on this product.  The price is fine.  It is a bit hard to snap the two parts of the bucket together at first but I think as time goes on it will be easier.\n\nGood luck.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4629, "id": 29828, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 727, "len_tokens": 896, "text": "I am a sixth year physics graduate student.  I wish I had known a countertop dishwasher existed sooner!  I actually do my dishes now!  This would have been a Godsend when I was preparing for my qualifying exam, and I will love having it as I'm writing up my thesis.  Mainly it gets 4 stars because it exists and there seem to be few competitors - I do have some complaints about the design.\n\nSo far I have had no problems using it.  It is a cheap, old-style dishwasher - unlike the newest, coolest full sized dishwashers, it is not good at getting chunks of food off and you need to rinse dishes thoroughly before you run it.  Nothing that is not water-soluble should be left on the dishes when you put the dishes in or else it will end up on the \"clean\" dishes.  This isn't so much a design flaw as a feature of a cheap, simple dishwasher.\n\nHere are the design flaws:\n1.  The hose to connect the dishwasher to the sink is shorter than I would like (4.5 feet) and starts on the right side of the dishwasher in the back.  4.5' would sound like enough, but if you want the dish washer on the right side of the sink, you have 2.5 ' of hose left, roughly, which means it has to be within about 18\" of the right side of the sink.  (You need some slack on the hose because it has to hang below the sink without much tension.)  You can't put it on a counter across from the sink and you can't tuck it in an out of the way place which is not within about 18\" of the sink.  You couldn't put it under most sinks, for instance.  If you can't put it within 18\" to the right of your sink or about 2.5' to the left of the sink, you should seriously consider getting a cart to put it on so you can roll it up to the sink when you're using it.  This is a serious concern if you're in a small, quirky apartment.  (If anyone from Danby is reading this, it would be really nice if one could buy an alternate, longer hose - maybe 8-10' - instead of the default hose to help fit this thing in a weird space.)\n2.  You can't tell what part of the cycle the dishwasher is in.  This means you have no clue how much longer it has to go or if it is in a part of the cycle that can be skipped.  It seems to take a long time and if there's a drying cycle I'd like to turn it off sooner.\n3.  The on switch and the delay switch are not easily distinguishable and don't follow any conventions for what these switches should look like.  The on switch does not look like an on switch, so I often confuse them.\n4.  The name of the cycles on the display doesn't make any logical sense.  They are named P1, P2, P3, and P4.  The only way to tell whether you're on the short cycle or the long cycle or the energy saving cycle is to read the manual to figure out what on Earth P1, P2, P3, and P4 mean.\n5.  The water does not drain out of the bottom of the dishwasher very well at the end of the cycle.\n6.  At the end of the cycle when the water drains, it is very loud.  I live in a small one bedroom apartment and if I turn it on before bed it wakes me up when it is done, even though I have been known to sleep through smoke detectors and freight trains passing nearby.  It's no problem when I'm awake and it's not loud enough to bother the neighbors since it's not a noise that carries and the noisy part is very short, but it's loud if you're within 40 feet.  (A detachable hose on the bottom of water outlet would help dampen the noise.)\n\nSo I would get this dishwasher again and I love it, but I think the engineers have some work to do.  If you're going to get this, you should get out a measuring tape and make sure it fits where you want it and really plan how it fits.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4630, "id": 38882, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 640, "len_tokens": 807, "text": "I've only had this kegerator for a week, but I've used it quite a bit in that time, and I love it. Especially at this price point, I think it is a great value and I highly recommend it. With that being said, I've found a few quirks, and hope my below points help you make an informed decision on whether to buy this unit or not.\n\nPROS:\n- Temperature: I set the thermostat to max, but I did not do the thermostat alteration other reviewers mentioned. Even without that, my beer has been perfectly cold.\n- Size: There is plenty of room in this unit. It fits a 5lb CO2 tank just fine (comes with a 2.5lb, I just upgraded it), and when you're only using 1/6 or 1/4 barrel kegs, there's plenty of room left for frosty mugs, etc.\n- Easy set up: Within an hour, I had mine up and running. I found the instructions to be clear, and did not need to do any extra googling to find relevant info.\n- Looks: Clean, professional look. Mine was packaged well and didn't have a single dent in it. Construction appears to be sufficient (I didn't pay for a commercial kegorator, and thus didn't expect one - the quality seems in accordance with residential use, and consistent with every other mini-fridge I've owned).\n- It dispenses draught beer: It works! I'm getting great quality draught beer at home - at the right temperature and with the right amount of head. This makes me happy.\n\nTHE QUIRKS:\n- The \"lock\" on the regulator adjuster: In order to change the CO2 pressure on the regulator, you must turn a knob - sounds easy enough. Problem is, the knob is locked with a teeeny tiny screw, which you're supposed to unscrew with the allen wrench they provided. That allen wrench was the same width as a tiny paper clip, and I couldn't get it to turn the tiny screw. My wife tried with her small hands and added finesse, but still to no avail. Finally, I gave up and just used a wrench to turn the knob without unlocking. Did I just ruin the threading on the knob? Probably, but it worked, and my beer has the right amount of foam - I don't care.\n- The Tower: When twisting the tower into position, it was very loose - no bueno. I looked through all the parts and couldn't find a washer for it. Just as I was about to improvise, I saw the plug (the thing you'd put in the hole if you didn't want to install the tower), and it had a rubber gasket on it. I put that on the tower, then it fit nice and snug (note: with the rubber gasket on, you have to put some strength into twisting it into place, but it works).\n- CO2 Tank: Mine only came with a 2.5lb tank, which is quite small. So I bought a 5lb tank, which fits perfect in the same place as where the 2.5 one would go. I'll just use the 2.5lb'er as a backup.\n- The #%! Silver Piece on Top of the Tower: So, on top of the tower lies a little silver decorative piece to cover up the hole - looks good. Yet whenever you close the door, the pressure change causes the silver piece to fly into the air like it's a cartoon on top of a geiser. It's fallen behind the fridge a few times and been a pain to get back out - beware of this.\n\nThat's all for now. This is probably the coolest toy I've ever had, so I'll be sure to come back and make updates if I run into any problems along the way. For now at least, it's a 5 Star.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4631, "id": 45424, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 723, "len_tokens": 839, "text": "We live on a sub-tropical island in Japan.  It is hot here, (90+ degrees with 100% humidity), most of the year and we are an outdoor family of five.  My husband and my three boys are outside all day and night except when at school, work, or sleeping and we all consume TONS of water... I go through 15 gallons of purified water a week!\n\nNeedless to say, as typical Americans, we like our ice cold but none of the refrigerators here are equipped with any kind of ice machine.  There is not even close to enough space to store ice trays and an ice box in the freezer (at least not for a family of five!) even if you wanted to... which I DON'T... and I got sick of paying for over priced frozen water!\n\nI ordered this Machine and fell in love with the fact that I FINALLY had ice!!  There were a few drawbacks in the beginning.  As other users stated, it did give the ice a plastic taste.  I ran water through it a few times with no success so moved on to the vinegar method.  It did seem to help, although there was still kind of a funny taste to the ice.  The good news is that after the first, or maybe it was the second, week the ice tasted just fine and you couldn't taste anything except water! It may take a bit longer for the average family for their ice to start tasting normal as we use an inordinate amount of ice,(remember the 15 gallons of water?), but it WILL start tasting normal.\n\nWe have owned this machine for almost 3 months now and feel that it is definitely worth every penny we spent.  We have never had a problem with it not functioning properly, (and I have a 2 and 3 year old who love to push buttons and wreak havoc on everything), and it makes PLENTY of ice, (We go through a LOT of ice, and although there have been times that there isn't much ice left from what the last person took after a full day of refilling sports bottles, it makes it so quickly that in 15 or 20 minutes or so it drops another tray load in the basket!).\n\nThe only down side is also an up side for me.  The ice does tend to be a little softer than  what comes from the freezer, but that is to be expected considering how fast it makes it...  Consequently, the ice does tend to melt a little faster, but I actually like it better because I like to chew on ice and this doesn't break my teeth... plus we mostly drink water so it isn't diluting the liquid in my cup at all so I tend to like the softer ice. My husband who enjoys whiskey and cokes also likes the softer ice because he too is an ice chewer.  When we need firmer, longer lasting ice for a cooler or something, we simply let the ice maker make it and we transfer it into a zip lock bag and put it in the freezer for a while, or the night before. No big deal and we didn't have to pay for over priced frozen water at the store!\n\nIn the long run, after doing the math, this machine will pay for itself by the end of next month an then will actually be saving us money!\n\n***UPDATE***\nWe are going on our 6th month of having this machine and I cannot rave enough about it.  With a family of five we go through tons of ice daily and this little baby has had no problem keeping up.  The ice tastes great and contrary to my previous report that the ice is soft, it actually drops into the tray hard but starts to soften as it slowly melts back into the machine which in turn makes a fresh new batch.  I actually have come to enjoy the ice being softer and tend to wait for it to soften before I use it because I enjoy chewing on it.\n\nI rarely write reviews, let alone an update to one, but I can't begin to tell you how happy I am with this little machine. You won't be sorry with this purchase!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4632, "id": 45444, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 720, "len_tokens": 861, "text": "I have a Class \"A\" 35 foot Motorhome and like most motorhomes under \"One Hundred Thousand Dollars\" the refrigerators are on the small side and in the freezer you need every inch. This ice maker was just what I was looking for, the prices is right and the size is perfect to store in the motorhome. Every few days I pour some bottled water in and make a zip-lock bag of ice and put it in the freezer. It took all the worries out of running out of ice. If we have guests it's great!!! Once it gets to temperature it seems to take off and fills up fast. It is also great for making crushed ice because the cubes have a hole in the center and are easy to smash. Only problem I have is that it is heavy (for me, I have a bad back) and to pick it up to the sink to clean it good is ruff. All & all: Well made, Nice looking and the only noise is the cubes falling which I find kind of neat myself :)\n\nIt was about two months after the above review of the Ice Maker when it broke!! I did read reviews where others had problems with the water pump but I thought it was just an air bubble because mine stopped pumping a few times and all I had to do was tilt it a bit thinking I was releasing the air.\n\nWRONG!! one day that dreaded \"out of water light came on and that's all she wrote. I called and received no satisfaction at all!! Figuring it would be too much trouble to send it back I decides to repair it myself. That is what I did for a living, R&D engineer, I have repaired more sophisticated machinery then a simple Ice Maker. I worked for \"Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center\" in New York City for over 15 years repairing Picker & GE X-Ray machines and Linear Escalators. I was schooled by these companies and was a \"Jack of ALL Trades\". Enough of tooting my horn.\n\nThe ice maker is built very well, like clockwork inside. It has a good compressor and the design is excellent!! It has one flaw, the water pump! I took the pump out and it is a medical grade pump with a ISO certification on it. (ISO 9001:2000) Problem, after a long day of hunting on my computer and my connections I could not find a replacement pump. It is made in China by \"HENG SHAN\" model # FS60202M , DC 12 volts 0.23 amps.\n\nWhat I did was disassemble the pump, it is a tiny thing. Easy to take apart, it is a magnet driven pump. One electro magnet spinning in a sealed housing insulated from the water. It drives a smaller magnet that has the impellor attached that moves the water. Age old design used in many things such as fish tank filter pumps.\n\nI found three problems with the pump: (1) the electro magnet circuit board had a cold solder joint. (2) one of the windings had no continuity, which took me a long time to find the break with a magnifying glass and repair it. (3) both the electro magnet shaft and the impellor shaft were shimmed to tight which I found out after I repaired (1) & (2). That could have been the cause of the winding getting hot and breaking. The time it did run for was intermittent, it did stop on me several times, that was most likely the cold solder joint. Between that and the shafts being shimmed to tight put a strain and high resistance on the windings until one of the winding wires melted... Hence, a dead pump!\n\nAfter all the repairs (about 12 hours work) it runs great now, has been for weeks. You can hear how much stronger the pump is. If you can not repair it yourself there are plenty of small 12 volt magnet drive pumps that you can replace it with, just replacing it is easy, just take your time taking the back to cover halfs off (lots of screws). GOOD LUCK!!\n\nps: If you need advice on repair of the pump email me at willphov@gmail.com and I will try to get back to you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4633, "id": 49041, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 611, "len_tokens": 818, "text": "I am extremely disappointed in this refrigerator/beverage center, HC125FVS.  I purchased it at a local \"big-name\" store.  Firstly, the drinks on the top shelf never got really cold, and the temperatures varied greatly from one shelf to the next.  I have 4 thermometers, and this is what the temperature degree results were at for the 7th (coldest setting) - 6th setting (2nd coldest):\nTop: 45-55\n3rd: 40-45\n2nd: 35-40\nsmall bottom shelf: 30-35\n\nThere was an ongoing variance of 5 degrees per shelf.  Also keep in mind that the average refrigerator should be at 35-40 degrees MAX.\n\nI called Haier and the agent told me that 125 cans is the maximum and they do not recommend filling the center to capacity to allow the air to flow freely. (Then why advertise it as a 125-can center???)  I had it only about 2/3 full of cans anyway, and there is no fan in the unit to circulate the air, so how can the air flow freely?  No wonder there is such a temperature variance. (Go figure.) I decided to hold onto it for a little while longer to see if I did get any satisfaction out of it.  (The only thing that made me really happy was that it freed up a lot of precious space in my main refrigerator.) So, I held onto it for a few more weeks.\n\nThe straw that broke the camel's back is that it is also advertised on the box to have auto-defrost.  After I had it for about 2 months, it developed a thick layer of frost, and it never auto-defrosted.  The manual made no mention of the auto-defrost and how it is supposed to work.  So, I called Haier America and asked why it had not defrosted yet.  I spoke with two different agents and both told me that they did not see auto-defrost as one of the options on this refrigerator. (Go figure, again.)\n\nOh, one more thing.  This center was constantly running.  Although it has been a hot summer, my electric bills have never been above $190 in all the years that I have lived in this house.  I was shocked when my electric bill went from $170 one month to $260 the next month after the first use of this center.  My next electric bill should be coming soon, and I am bracing myself.  Although I cannot say 100% sure that this center contributed greatly to the big jump in my bill, but when I turned it off, my electric meter's wheel slowed down quite a bit.\n\nIt is going back to the store this weekend.  Thank goodness I can return it after 2 months to my local store...\n\nWell, I hope you find this review helpful.\n\nP.S.  I just ordered a Danby Designer 4.4 Cu ft compact refrigerator that it is Energy Star rated.  I have seen great feedback (4.63 stars out of 5)on the Danby from over 40 reviews, and I have my fingers crossed that it works better. It's also 0.4 cu ft bigger than the Haier...\n\nUPDATE:  After I stopped using this beverage center, my electric bill went back down to normal levels on my October 2008 bill.  I got the Danby, and I am so much happier with the Danby.  Its auto-defrost works and it is energy efficient, which is the opposite of this Haier.\n\nUPDATE 7/9/09: It's the following summer, and I still love the Danby.  My electric bills are still at their usual levels of $170-$190.  Therefore, I am convinced the Haier is the reason for the jump in my bill last year.  As I previously mentioned, the Haier was running constantly.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4634, "id": 51438, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 567, "len_tokens": 897, "text": "We've owned this machine a little over a year at this point, and STILL love this dryer.  It works as good now as the day it was purchased.  I'm averaging six loads of drying per week, and this little wonder has had no trouble keeping up, even with big thick bath towels. :)\n\nOur apartment doesn't have the room, nor a 220v plug for a standard clothes dryer, so we were so thrilled to find this compact little unit that could be safely hooked up to an indoor venting system (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Dundas-Jafine-TDIDVKZW-ProFlex-Indoor-Dryer-Vent-Kit-with-4-Inch-by-5-Foot-ProFlex-Duct/dp/B000DZFTC6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Dundas Jafine TDIDVKZW ProFlex Indoor Dryer Vent Kit with 4-Inch by 5-Foot ProFlex Duct</a>) and takes up very little room.  It is wall-mountable (kit is included with the dryer - you just need a couple of wood slats or a piece of plywood), but works just as well on a table.  We have ours on a little $14 Ikea side table (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/IKEA-Lack-Side-Table-Black/dp/B004IN2XIW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">IKEA Lack Side Table - Black</a>) [we've uploaded pictures to Amazon.com], and were pleasantly surprised we didn't see a need to strap or bolt it down, as it doesn't move even when in use.  Very sturdy!  You can also place it on the floor if needed, but with the controls on the bottom front, it would be a bit more awkward to operate.\n\nOwning this machine has been a big stress-reliever.  We bought it as it was stressful trying to do laundry using the pay-per-use machines in our apartment complex. We didn't enjoy paying $5 to wash+dry each load and not being sure our clothes are even getting clean, not having clothes dry fully, trying to use the machines when someone constantly seems to be using them for a home laundry business, worrying about someone dumping a bleach into washers, or putting wax crayons, felt markers, and lipsticks in dryers as a prank, dealing with the residue of someone's greasy clothes or fabric dyes in the machines, etc.  The list of stresses using shared laundry facilities goes on and on.  Having this dryer has certainly eliminated them!\n\nI highly recommend this dryer, as it's good value for the price, and fits into our little apartment with ease.  They make good wedding and baby gifts to those like us who have limited space and/or can't hook up full-size appliances because of electrical outlets. We also bought a Haier portable washer&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Haier-HLP21N-Pulsator-1-Cubic-Foot-Portable-Washer/dp/B002UYSHMM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Haier HLP21N Pulsator 1-Cubic-Foot Portable Washer</a>&nbsp;to go with this dryer, and love it too!\n\nWool Lint Filter cleaning:  I tried cleaning the wool pad circular filter with a soft old toothbrush, but found brushing the wool wore it out too quickly, and I've had to replace the pad more often than would have been normally necessary.  What works best for me is to use lint rollers (I use the dollar store ones that have sticky paper as they work great) to clean off lint remnants after pulling off the large pieces.  I average three sticky sheets per two loads of drying, and find this method is simple, cheap and better than replacing filters every two months at $9 per filter (shipped to Canada).  You can also vacuum the filter, but for me it's much more convenient to use lint rollers.  The filters on this machine are quite effective and very very little lint ever gets vented out, which is great for an indoor venting system.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4635, "id": 51536, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 657, "len_tokens": 880, "text": "I sell appliances for a living, so I know quite a lot about them.  I bought one of the first little Haier washers 6 years ago, and ever since, I wished there was a matching dryer.  Since my washer has held up so well all this time (never a problem and I use it LOTS), I decided to buy this dryer right away once I discovered it.  I've had it about a month.\n\nLet me tell you about dryers: Get the biggest one you have space for, same as for washers. and you'll be happier.  I move often and I tend to rent small places, so this is the only one to consider; It's either this or drying racks!  All the other portables currantly out there are bigger and more cumbersome than this one.  This one truly is portable in that I can pick it up and carry it easily.  But, it will not hold as many clothes as the bigger ones.  It is, however, perfect for the little Haier washers.\n\nIf you want faster drying times, be prepared to have a 220v or gas line installed.  (Your landlord will go for that, sure!)  Otherwise, 120v portable dryers are going to take, on average, 90 minutes per load.  The flip side of this is that you can operate it almost ANYWHERE, and your landlord doesn't even need to know you have it!\n\n120v dryers also do not have to be vented outside.  They do not produce nearly the lint of larger dryers.  You can if you want.\n\nTinier dryers may produce an extra wrinkle or two over largers ones.  They don't have as much room for tumbling, so, be sure not to overload this one.  That will also affect drying time.  No dryer should be filled more than half full of wet clothes, unless you like ironing out wrinkles.\n\nI ordered this from Amazon, thinking that I was getting the one with the window and the dial.  Instead, I got the one with the electronic controls, which is the nicer one.  I'm not sure the window/dial version is available anymore.  This has all electronic controls with many little lights.  Very hi-tek!  It has a sensor dry feature that is usually accurate.  Sometimes, I'll need to add some manual dry time afterwards, especially if I've mixed lightweight with heavier weight fabrics, as that throws the sensor off a little.  Of course, keeping like-weight clothes together would be better.\n\nThere are 3 auto-dry cyles: Normal, Heavy, and Delicate.  Use Heavy for Jeans and Towels.  I'm not sure when I'll ever use Delicate, as 120v dryers only dry on low heat!  That is why they take longer to dry.  I believe that cycle uses an even lower heat.  There is also timed dry available.  Drying status lights (drying, cooling, done, and check lint filter) are helpful.  It has an end-of-cycle signal.  It does not have a drying rack, as some descriptions on the web have stated.\n\nThis, like my little washer, is surprisingly well-built!  It has a metal body (I was expecting plastic).  I think it will last a long time, hassle-free, just like my washer has.\n\nMy only real complaint is the lint filter.  It seems fragile and it is the most bothersome one I've ever had to clean!  There are two filters nested together, one fine and the other course, and both have to be cleaned.  It is located on the back of the drum and doesn't pull off that easily.  I imagine this is necessary, though, because of the dryer's small size.  I wish Haier would have made a stronger, more convenient filter.  THIS IS THE ONLY REASON I AM GIVING THIS DRYER FOUR INSTEAD OF FIVE STARS.\n\nOverall, if space and portability are your chief concerns, Haier's small washers and this dryer are very, very good!  I highly recommend them.  However, if you have more space, and stay put for many years, get something bigger.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4636, "id": 51812, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 649, "len_tokens": 844, "text": "Exact replacement for Kenmore humidifier, model #758.144170 console humidifier.  I have been using them for 1.5 months.  The house was down to 10% humidity due to lack of filters AND outside temperatures between -10 and 20 degrees.  I have electronic thermometers that record the min/max temperatures AND min/max humidity both inside and outside.  Even the outdoor humidity was 30% or less (VERY dry).  I live in central MA; review was written when cold snap hit us for ~2 weeks (12/22/17 through 1/8/18).\nI put in these new filters and put the fan speed on my humidifier on medium and did this for 1 WEEK (3 fan speeds on my console humidifier).  Despite the cold weather and dry conditions, the indoor humidity was brought up from 10% to 45%.  After that, I put the fan speed on low and the humidifier has been operating quietly and cycling (on/off) for the past two weeks.\nI use a combo bacteriostat (mold, bacteria growth) and water treatment (hard water) to improve filter operations (BestAir Golden Solution Humidifier -> found at Lowe's or on eBay).\nCOMMENTS on POSTS: I have a whole house humidifier (1,800 sq. ft.).  The humidity where the humidifier is located measures 48% and at the opposite end of the house (ranch style) measures 45%.  The house is heated with oil-fired forced hot water baseboard heat.  It takes time for the moisture to build up and then \"filter\" its way throughout the house.  I started out at 10% and using a medium fan speed had to run the humidifier constantly for a week to get the humidity levels up.  You're not just adding moisture into the air, it's EVERYTHING in your home (wood floors, furniture, curtains, etc.).\nI do find that I have to fill up one water tank (humidifier has two 2.5 gallon water tanks) on a daily basis.  Some people have posted that this is excessive.  Honestly, these wicks are doing their job because in colder weather, the humidity levels drop both outside AND inside your home more excessively.  This means you need more water to get into the air as opposed to when outside temperatures are in the 40s to 60s (warmer air can hold more moisture than colder air).  I have also found that my humidifier cycles more \"off\" than \"on\" suggesting that these paper wicks are getting the humidity into the air despite dry conditions.\nThe filters have to put into the humidifier CAREFULLY because of a slight design flaw with the holders.  The plastic holders for my wick filters are rounded on the bottom but fit into a straight holder on the top.  Essentially, the filters are gently but noticeably being \"bent\" from a curved surface to a straight surface.  Like the OEM wicks, I had to put them in gently and made sure they were not wet.  DON'T try to flip these wicks to get extra life out of them.  They will generally last a whole season (get more \"strained\" into the fourth month of use).  When these wicks are wet, they will fall apart when you try to take them out of the holder and turn them around.  Remember, the wicks are made out of paper and paper loses its cohesive properties when wet (pick up a 3 ounce fishing weight with two pages of dry newsprint and then try the same thing with the newsprint soaking wet.  You'll be lucky if the pages don't fall apart when you handle them!).\nPaper wicks may seem \"cheap\" but the paper weave really soaks up the water better than some of the plastic honeycomb filters I have tried in the past.  In my area, we have free recycling so a used paper wick goes into the paper recycle bin.  Environmental impact kept to a minimum.\n\nPlease let me know if you find this review helpful.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4637, "id": 53767, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 672, "len_tokens": 839, "text": "In the heirarchy of cooktops, induction is king. Although induction is powered by electricity, it should not be confused with traditional electric cooking.\n\nInduction provides instantaneous results. The speed of heating a pan is amazing (surpasses gas and electric in speed and control), it does not throw heat (other than the hot pan), and the lack of heat generated beneath the surface means the cooktop is much cooler than either electric or gas, because there are no heating elements in the unit. Also, induction costs far less to operate than gas or electric.\n\nThis unit has digital controls (with a lit display that only shows when it is on), and I know, for example, that olive oil will burn in the pan above 5, but 4.5 is perfect for sauteing. And it will remain perfect for sauteing throughout the entire cooking process, it will not get hotter or colder.\n\nFurthermore, you can store anything on the cooktop (we keep a bottle of olive oil on there, as well as a non-magnetic spoon rest. They stay cool to the touch regardless of how many units are on.\n\nNow there are downsides.\n\n1. Cost: cost prohibitive for many, by far the most significant factor. There are no freestanding range/oven combos, which means that you need to spend money on individual range and oven to get a functional kitchen. Furthermore, unless you have a 40A cooktop in place, you will need to upgrade your electric. The total cost for us was around thirty two hundred for both the wall oven and the cooktop, with an additional cost of $150 for the electrician, and about $300 in replacing the pans.\n\n2. Cookware: although most high end pans are made to be induction compatible, the majority of widely available cookware is not. Especially non-stick. I found a couple nice \"eco\" non-stick pans at a homegoods store, but be advised to take a magnet along with you shopping, and only buy pans to which it sticks. That being said, all-clad is typically induction compatible, and there is a wide movement to making pans that way.\n\n3. Probably not a wise investment at this point if looking for a return on a home renovation for sale. While many people discover the benefits of induction for themselves, it hasn't taken off in the US yet, and most people won't know the difference until using it.  I doubt people would recognize the benefits if we went to sell the house. Perhaps a brochure would be in order...\n\nNow for those that hate electric cooking, but don't have gas lines, this is an amazing solution--I think it is far better than the other methods of cooking. Also, if you frequently cook but have a smaller kitchen, this will keep it cooler.\n\nIf you have gas lines, I'd have to say that the benefits of induction (compared to gas) do not outweigh the initial cost. This cost could be recouped by energy savings if you cook A LOT, or by weighing in other considerations, such as small children being burned.\n\nThe 30\" is very useful, and is equivalent to a standard freestanding cooking range. The 36\" model would be appropriate if you are accustomed to having a 6 burner cooktop.\n\nI don't have any basis for comparison to other induction units, but I cannot find any faults with this unit.\n\nUPDATE:\n\nAfter cooking on this for over a year, I have a few additional comments:\n\n1. Some induction compatible pans make noise when heating, not loud, but rather annoying.\n2. The glass has scratched slightly in places. Still looks very sleek though.\n3. Controls are annoying to clean. Despite the \"control lock\" button, when you clean the rest the water activates the buttons, making an error message and a beeping noise.\n4. There should be a better way to seal off the edges next to the countertop. Has anyone tried silicon?\n5. There are now \"all in one\" cooktop/oven slide in units available.\n\nUPDATE:\n\nBarkeepers friend works extremely well to clean the cooktop", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4638, "id": 53829, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 695, "len_tokens": 816, "text": "I use this cooktop on a 30amp circuit with Anolon hard anodized copper bottom cookware. I read a lot of reviews about this cooktop and was worried about the performance of the cooktop relative to a gas cooktop, wondered if my circuit had enough juice to power this cooktop and stressed over buying cookware that would not buzz or rattle. Getting a gas cooktop was unfortunately not an option with the home I just purchased and regular electric cooktops have never impressed me. I did not buy this on Amazon and bought it at a local big box that starts with L, ends in S and has a OWE in the middle. Price was the same as Amazon, at the time, and preferred to buy local in case I had to return due to lack of compatibility with my countertop or the electric needs. I was also able to get a 4 year in-home warranty from the same store for 120 bucks  which was a bargain in my opinion. I've been using this cooktop for 3 months now and so far zero issues with my 30amp circuit. Ive even turned all burners on to a high setting and did not trip the breaker. This cooktop is the real deal and I can't believe I'm saying this but I actually prefer it over gas. The heat control, clean up and lack of hot surfaces on pot handles really make it shine. The heat control for me has been the biggest surprise.  Heat setting for each burner goes up in half steps. 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, etc. As me and my wife get more experience cooking on it we share settings with each other to see what numbers work best. Everything we are making is remarkably consistent now. Pancakes are always golden, pasta is prefect etc. no more guesswork! It's as simple as finding the best number for each burner according to what your making. Ex: we make pancakes on the large burner using number 3. I read one review where somebody mentioned that they had trouble cleaning the touch screen control area due to water canceling out the control lock? Read another where someone mentioned it easily scratches? Several where they talked about \"relearning how to cook everything\" on induction coming from gas or regular electric? No to all in my experience. Cleaning and Scratches: Push and hold the control lock for 5 seconds and nothing on the cooktop will work except the timer button. I use Weiman glass cooktop wipes to get off any food and then little dots of Weiman glass cooktop cleaner with a baby burb cloth. Gets it showroom clean every single time with less than 2 mins of effort. You want to clean it like this for the simple fact that hard particles like salt and a flat bottom pot surface will definitely lead to scratches. I clean it after every use and always check my flat bottom cookware prior to use and I've had no scratch issues. Relearning how to cook? Really? I think the learning curve is similar to getting a new TV or cell phone. Sure awkward the first time or two but by no means a complete relearning. I did end up using silicon around the edges to prevent any possible leakage between the cooktop and countertop. Cooktop kit does include a black adhesive strip in lieu of recommending a silicon bond. If I could do it again I would of probably not used silicon as it does not look as slick and the included strip that sits between the cooktop and counter seemed more than adequate. I did a separate review for the pots and pans but long story short it seems to me that basically all pots and pans will buzz on induction to some degree. The ones i use slightly buzz at high temps but its  minimal and when at normal cooking temps there is no buzz. If your ready to make the upgrade, have money to swap pans and don't mind  a possible electric upgrade I say go for it. I'm very happy with this purchase and have been telling everyone about induction.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4639, "id": 53844, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 655, "len_tokens": 833, "text": "For several years I had read about induction cooktops and thought I'd love to have one - if we ever remodeled, knowing that we wouldn't do that!!!!  Well, my husband surprised me with a kitchen remodel - pretty much going with anything I wanted.  I DO love to cook and always have.  I studied and researched induction cooktops, and am thrilled to have one.  Even my husband loves cooking with it - it is a HUGE learning curve.  I have used both gas and electric in the past.\n\nYes, I did need to get new pans (I'd really never had new pans in our 40 years of marriage, but rather a hodge-podge of things given to us.  It worked.  Well, we went with the Demire Atlantis line (yes, luxury) and at my husband's suggestion got them while the kitchen was being remodeled and I was cooking on a single hot plate.  Let me tell you, those pans are incredible - even on a cheap hot plate!!!  And . .yes, they're great on the induction cooktop.  I realize much of this paragraph is on the pans, but . .in that you must have magnetic pans, I thought I'd just address that issue here, too.)\n\nWhen we were looking to buy the cooktop, my husband really encouraged me to buy the 5 burner cooktop.  I insisted \"no\" - I'd never needed 5 burners in all my years of cooking, even for larage crowds; what I always ran out of was oven space! (and yes, we did get two full-size wallovens.  So . . we got the 4 burner - and now I wish I'd gotten the 5 burner, only because on the induction cooktop you must more accurately match your pan size than on other types of cooking surfaces that I've used.  I've always worked hard to match size of pan to the burner as closely as possible.\n\nAs stated in the first paragraph, for me/us, other than for boiling water (which is incredible!), the cooking learning curve was HUGE.  I'd never bothced an omelette, but . . did my first time on the induction cooktop; it was edible but not a \"looker\" at all!!. But . . keep at it - you'll get it!!!!  I did!  For me, I needed to use numbers higher than expected.\n\nI LOVE that I can put things on the cooktop - such as the food dishes w/all the ingredients for a recipe - and not worry about hot burners, pot holder catching fire, etc. (only heat on the cooktop is from a pan that has been on the stove and transferred heat to the cooktop.  Recently I had a big dinner, and immediately after I used the cooktop, I put a woven cloth rug over the top and used the cooktop for buffet serving.  It worked great and looked fine, too!\n\nI do wish the unit had knobs vs. touch-pad for the controls.  It's SOOOO much easier to turn a knob to exactly where you want than to keep touching and pressing a button to get where you want to go with it.\n\nAlso, both my husband and I wish the \"burners\" were not sooo hard to see (hence the 4 star rating, not 5).  We have to turn the hood light on and undercabinet lighting on, also, so that we can see where the burner is (as you must place your pan on the burner - not partially off, etc.  Certainly it could have been made so that each burner was more easily seen/identified.  I am guessing they are done as they are so that the unit has a sleeker, less \"stove-top\" look.  I'd rather not have to get at just the right angle to find my burner - it's a stove, so . . I don't mind it looking like one!\n\nOverall - it's great and am excited we ventured out and tried something so new!!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4640, "id": 53864, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 626, "len_tokens": 827, "text": "We purchased this in March of 2009. It came with the following:Turntable, Convection grid, Crisper pan & handle, baking tray and steamer vessel.\n\nThere are so many features in here that I don't think I've used everything.\nFirst, the Convection Microwave Oven:\nDe-Frost - I'm not a big menu planner so defrosting before I cook has to work quickly and efficiently for me. Apart from the usual cooking power options (High 100%, 90%, 80% etc) I can choose from Meats, Poultry, Fish, Bread, Juice & Manual. The microwave calculates the defrosting time based on the weight that I input. The manual has guidelines and pound to kilogram conversions.\n\nRe-Heat - The options include Dinner Plate, Sauce, Soup, Pizza, Casserole, Beverage and Manual. The microwave bases the reheating on how many cups of sauce/soup/casserole/beverage is inputed and the number of slices of pizza. For example, I want to heat a cup of coffee. (Ghastly to some, I know, but I've done it) The microwave will ask you how many cups and whether you want it warm or hot. Simple & easy.\n\nManual Cooking - Just input the cooking power and the cooking time and you're all set!\n\nPopcorn - Works like in other microwave ovens. Pop it based on the bag size.\n\nSteam Cooking - The vessel comes in 3 parts: the cover, the food holder and the water container and they all fit together. I've steamed fresh vegetables, frozen vegetables and a lot of dim sum. They've all been delicious. The options are Potatoes, Fresh Vegetables, Frozen Vegetables, Fish fillets, Shrimp & Manual. Again, the microwave calculates the cooking times on how many cups and how many ounces. The steaming vessel is dishwasher safe.\n\nSoften/Melt - The options are Butter, Margarine, Ice Cream, Cream cheese and the softening/melting time is based on how many sticks and ounces you have. We love to bake and we have a fondness for ice cream cakes so this has been so useful.\n\nCrisper Pan Frying - This is the one feature that I've only tried a couple of times. I still like to use the old frying pan, I'll admit. I followed the guide in the manual and made an omelet.\n\nTimer - I use this mostly when I'm making pasta on the stove top. I can have this running while the oven is cooking something else.\n\nThe Microwave converts to a Convection oven/Easy Convect. I just put the grid on the turntable. I've done smaller amounts of cookies, some chicken, baked potatoes and french fries this way.\n\nThe bottom part of this oven is the Electric Convection Oven. In \"traditional\" oven mode I can choose from Bake, Broil & Bread Proof. In convection mode, there's Bake, Broil & Roast. Just to give me something else to think about there's also an EasyConvect option. There's also the Options key that does the fahreinheit & celsius conversion, turns the sound on/off/high/low, dehydrates,oven temperature calibration, Sabbath mode and turn the turntable on/off.\n\nTo clean, I turn on the Self Clean Mode, choose the number of hours I want and wipe down when it's cool. The manual advises against using commercial oven cleaners.\n\nAgain, so many features. The bottom line is I've been very happy with this oven. It replaced an ancient GE that came with our house. A lot of thought went into this purchase since we also had to hire someone to chip away at a brick wall that also housed a fireplace that we wanted to keep. I chose this oven because of the brand, the stainless steel, its size & features and because I wanted the microwave oven off my counter. Notice that I mention the manual quite a bit. It has a lot of information!\n\nHighly recommended.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4641, "id": 53895, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 762, "len_tokens": 891, "text": "I really cannot say enough good things about this particular freezer.  We actually have two of these in our home and will soon be adding another. (More about that later).  Right off the top though I want to tell you that when you consider the shipping charges on this model and the asking price here, you can probably do much better if you buy locally.  If you have a truck or larger SUV you can easily carry this thing home and avoid delivery charges.  Anyway...\n\nWe went the route of manual defrost as we have had automatic defrosting units in the past and to be quite frank, they, the automatic defrosting units will cause a significant rise in your electric bill.  With these small units we have found that complete defrosting is quite avoidable if you simply take a nice and sturdy plastic scraper (like the one you use on your car windshield in the winder) and keep the frost build-up down every few weeks are so then the chore of completely emptying your unit is kept to a minimum.  We have found that once ever 18 months or so is quite adequate.\n\nThese units are extremely quiet and there is no problem with the motor/compressor constantly coming on.  We have both of our freezers on our back porch next to an old refrigerator we keep as a back-up and overflow unit.  The reason we choose to purchase and install two smaller units, rather than one large chest unit, is that we found with the large chest unit we simply had too much food wastage over the years.  Food seems to get lost in these things and I for one absolutely hate digging thought bags and packages and freezer containers to find one small item...all the while risking frost bite.\n\nWe always have a large garden and neither my wife nor I do any canning.  This is a choice we made several years ago. All of our produce from the garden in properly prepared and then frozen.  We also buy in bulk and have found we save a tremendous amount of money in doing so. The presence of a large or smaller home freezer makes it possible to capitalize on discounts on perishable foods.  This we do often. The only drawback of this is  the cost of a deep freezer. You can get one like this for under $300 and the annual energy cost varies, but is usually somewhere around $50 a year. To break even, you're going to need to be saving about $60-70 a year on your food costs. For our family, we can sometimes save that much in a month due to our deep freezer. Between the flash-frozen vegetables bought at a discount, the frozen casseroles prepared ahead of time, the breakfast burritos made at an incredibly cheap rate per burrito, the produce from our garden socked away for later, and countless other little things, the deep freezer saves us money almost every single day.\n\nNow another reason we have two of these freezers (and will soon be getting yet another) is that we keep vegetables, of which we use a lot,  in one and we keep meat in another.  We buy our meat in bulk, either at the local store or quite often we will purchase a half-beet.  And of course there are the fish we catch (I am only able to catch really stupid fish, so we do not have that many fish in our freezer at a given time as overall, as a tribe, fish are quite a bit brighter than I am).\n\nWe have been using these units for well over a year now and have had no problems what so ever.  They do have a light on them that tells you they are running which we constantly check.  We did have a power outage last year that lasted for over 24 hours (this was a real bummer), but dry ice took care of that problem and we saved all of our food.\n\nAll in all these are good freezers and if you manage your shopping correctly, they will save you quite a lot of money.  They are light enough that my wife and I can move them from location to location (when empty) with no difficulty what so ever.  We do not use the locking mechanism on our freezers as there is no way a raccoon can get the lid open and they are the only critter that would be interested in their contents other than our grandsons.\n\nDon Blankenship\nThe Ozarks", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4642, "id": 57356, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 727, "len_tokens": 896, "text": "Long story, but, hoping to give details that might apply to other homeowners and solve several issues.  Skip the next paragraph for review of LintEater only.\n\nOver the years, I had grown very frustrated with the design of the dryer vent in our home - from the dryer, the vent goes down an internal wall, underneath the foundation, back up an outside wall, then, out.  (a total of four 90-degree turns) The regular washer and electric dryer that we had before would create lots of condensation in the vent line, and would require vacuuming out with a shop vac about every 6 months. I would routinely extract about 3 gallons of water each time.  In April 2013, I switched to an HE washer and a gas dryer.  Also, switched from a flex vent hose (from dryer to wall) to a semi-rigid hose that added yet another turn to the venting, but, was still within the recommended limits of the new gas dryer.  The HE washer solved the moisture problem, but, the gas dryer was taking even longer to dry than the electric dryer.  A check of the dryer indicated that the gas would only burn for 7 seconds before shutting off.  I was told by an expert that I had a ventilation problem.  A check of local vendors indicated prices ranging from $120 to $159 for dryer vent cleaning.  I searched and found the Gardus LintEater online and decided that the price point was right for me to try this myself.  Glad that I did.\n\nThe Gardus LintEater worked exactly as expected and did the job.  It took about 2 hours to completely clean the vent.  It was a little tricky to get it to push through the 90-degree turns, but, once it did, it moved forward.  It ended up being a 2-person job - one to hold and power the drill, and one to grab the turning rods with bare hands (no burns!) and push the rods through.  I had the shop vac hooked up on the indoor side of the vent and pushed the cleaning brush through from the outdoor side.  At about the 8 foot mark (4 feet from the indoor side), I encountered a tightly packed mass of lint and the brush had trouble breaking it up.  So, I switched to cleaning from the indoor side.  The vac hose adapter has a small hole at the top that allows you to vac and clean from the same side simultaneously.  That did the trick - when I encountered the mass from the indoor side, the brush was able to break it up along with the help of the vac suction.  In a matter of seconds, the LintEater had cleaned out about a 1-cubic foot mass of lint.  The 12-feet of rods that come with the kit was perfect for cleaning the entire length.  After reconnecting the gas dryer, it was absolutely amazing at the difference in the airflow.  The dryer works super fast now and I cannot be more pleased.  This is one of the best investments a homeowner can make!\n\nNote: I did have to make the adapter in order to attach the rods to my corded drill - just a matter of cutting the head off a bolt.  I have a 3/8\" chuck and the rods require a 1/2\" or larger chuck.  If you have to do this, you will know what I mean - just read the instruction manual.  It was not a problem to do, but, I did happen to have the right size bolt already.  Last note: the rods are fairly durable - several times in the process (going around the 90-degree turns and when hitting the lint mass), the drill would turn the rods faster than what they could physically turn, so, the rods would twist up into what looks like a long pretzel.  I fully expected them to break at that point, but, they did not.  I was very happy to see how the rods could take quite a bit of twisting without breaking.  Now that I will be doing routine cleaning, I don't expect to have this problem.\n\nBottom line - if you even think your dryer vent needs cleaning, buy this system and use it; you will be happy you did.  This advice is coming from someone who hardly ever writes a review.  Happy cleaning.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4643, "id": 58144, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 713, "len_tokens": 867, "text": "I bought this at Target last spring and while it wasn't the most perfect product, I was pretty excited about having it.  When people complain about the taste, that's either them not rinsing out the machine initially (which I did) or just using water that isn't the best quality.  I washed mine well a few times with hot soapy water and used water from my Brita water pitcher that I keep in the fridge.  It suggests wasting the first few batches which I did.  The ice tasted fine.\n\nThe ice is a very soft ice which is great for just eating alone.  My kids loved it.  They would just want a cup of ice. Pretty funny.  But because the ice is very soft, it melts very quickly, especially in room temp drinks.  But if you use a lot of it, you can get by with not being too bothered by that. It will make a batch about every 12 minutes which was nice.\n\nAs a side note, the ice melts while sitting in the unit, it is not cooled in any way. It's just like a cooler sitting in your kitchen.  The warmer your house is, the faster it melts.\n\nThe machine is noisy while making ice (it's wasn't as bad as others state though, but then again I'm used to a noisy house with 3 kids. lol.), which I did not mind, but the machine also makes other noises that are not normal...but only after months of having it.  There was enough water, but it sounded like the pump was on it's way out.  I would unplug it for a few days then plug it back in and usually it was better.  Not always though. My husband would tease, it's on it's way out!  I knew it was close.  Not even a year old.\n\nA few months ago, it just stopped freezing the ice cubes.  The machine goes through the motions of making ice, but doesn't actually freeze anything.  What a bummer. So, a year old and now just a worthless piece of junk for $109.00 (luckily it was on sale at Target).  I originally justified the $ by thinking I would use it at parties and for the ice chests on outings, but no you can't.  It just melts too fast and there isn't enough for a party.  I still ended up buying bags of ice for those occasions. Maybe if you bag up this ice then store it in the freezer???\n\nIt was an alright machine while it lasted.  It did light up often that there was too much ice when there really wasn't or the right side where the metal sensor was had a few pieces barely touching it and then the left side of the basket was pretty empty.  As others reviewers states though, just knock the ice down so it's evened out and then hold onto the metal sensor for about 20 seconds then it re-triggers it to start making ice again.\n\nThe machine is a descent size too. It was difficult to maneuver it around to clean it out. I won't miss dealing with that. I would clean it out every week.  Something else I just remembered.  After about 6 months of running it....all the stickly labels (the warning labels) got moldy (black) on the underside of the lid (cover). I thought how stupid to put something paper in an area with direct moisture contact.  Gross.  I scraped it all off with a razor blade and cleaned it really good.  It would be better to take those off first or they should be covered with contact paper or something. What a dumb idea on Emerson's part.\n\nSo, if you are willing to spend the $ for ice for one year, then go for it, but if you expect a machine of that cost to last longer, then look for another one.  I wish the \"good\" reviews stated how long they had owned it.  Over the year, my machine was probably turned on and making ice about 80% of the time.  I have noticed other machines that look identical to this with different names. I can't help but wonder if they are selling the same crappy machine with new names now. Just do your research.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4644, "id": 59066, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 662, "len_tokens": 812, "text": "We bought this range two years ago, when we sold our house of twenty years and moved. I am a fairly serious cook, and just over 60. We bought this with the idea that this was it: a top of the line tool, versatile and durable, a lasting enhancement to our kitchen. And, unless we win the lottery, the last chance to get a high-end range. I haven't experienced the maintenance issues some of the other reviewers have, and in my experience, their customer support was very accomodating. The range looks fabulous. It looks in the kitchen rather like I imagine a brand new Mercedes would look in the driveway.\n\nI absolutely love the oven. I like the touch screen controls. It has features I won't ever use, and bells and whistles I certainly don't need (ramp up lighting??), but it works to perfection. It is super-insulated, preheats quickly, and holds a steady temperature very well. The temperature probe works fine. The lights (there are two) are positioned on the sides of the oven, so they actually illuminate the food rather than silhouette it in backlight. The ball bearing, full-extension racks are great. And the cobalt blue finish is lovely to look at. The warming oven works, but it's pretty small and I don't use it often enough to judge how well it works.\n\nThe cooktop, on the other hand, is downright awful. It was designed by a minimally competent engineer who clearly has never even boiled water. The grid that supports the cookware has two major flaws: the prongs are too far apart to support a small saucepan, and the three sections aren't coplanar--they all are different heights, and they don't line up properly. When it was delivered, the sections were a quarter inch out of alignment in height. I couldn't slide a pan from the lower section to the higher one without lifting it. I called customer service, they were quite apologetic, and they overnighted me a new set. This set didn't align either, but between the two sets I was able to put together three sections that align to each other fairly closely. However, they have a built-in bump on the outer edge of the grid that prevents a 12\" pan from sitting level. Moreover, because of the alignment issues on the top, it is impossible to level both the oven and the cooktop. Three of the burners ignite quickly, but the super-low to super-high burner doesn't want to ignite. I have to go past the ignition point, then back, at least once to get it to catch. On all of the burners, the flame doesn't adjust evenly as you turn the knob. There are wide sections of the knob that don't produce any visible change in the flame. The 'super burner' goes from high heat to below a simmer in a very small portion of the dial. It's very difficult to get it adjusted to a low cooking heat, and the large diameter of this burner makes it not suitable for simmering with a small pan. And, you must look at the flame to know you've actually adjusted the heat when you turn the knob on any of the burners. It is also impossible to adjust the flame low enough to hold a simmer on two of the burners. All in all, the $600 Frigidaire at our last house had a much better cooktop. The only reason I'm giving this review two stars is that I like the oven so much. The cooktop gets zero stars.\n\nThis experience has been especially disappointing because I agonized over the choice of a range. I looked at virtually every range on the market that cost less than $3,500, and felt like I had made a great choice. Unfortunately, you can't test drive ranges. For the price, I expected to get first-class performance in every respect. I could have been much happier for $1,000 less. Don't make the same mistake.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4645, "id": 59810, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 666, "len_tokens": 839, "text": "The below is a running commentary on this unit, from original 2008 purchase to 2010.\n\nThis is a great looking unit with a lot of nice features.  We may just have gotten a bad one, so take this for what it is worth, but we have been pretty frustrated.  The unit keeps showing Code 1 and refuses to work.  I called Electrolux Customer Service, who I must say were honest and stated that their engineers had misdesigned the computer board and they were having a lot of problems.  Said they had redesigned the board and would get one right to us.  About four days later a repairman changed the board out.  Only problem, it is still showing Code 1--a leak in the tub.  So we have a brand new $1300 dishwasher that a contract repairman must completely take apart to fix a seal in the unit.  Not what I would expect for a high-end product.  Wish we had gone with the Bosch.\n\nWant to amend my review a little, and raise this to four stars.  The above unit was defective.  Lets face it, no company is perfect and everyone produces a lemon every once and a while.  I must say that Electrolux customer service was great to deal with.  After I told them that the panel replacement had not fixed the issue, they immediately stated they would replace the entire unit.  We have the new unit in and it is a very nice dishwasher.  Its quiet, does a good job, and has a lot of room inside.  My only complaint would be that if your dishwasher is to the left of your sink, sometimes you will accidentally hit the touch panel on top of the door.  Not a big issue though. We are happy with the unit, so I take back my words about preferring the Bosch.\n\nWell, I will go down to 1 star.  Now, almost two years later, and all of the above, guess what we got with the new unit--Code 1--a leak in the tub, only this time it was also leaking water on the floor.  I called customer service, but they told me that it was past its warranty, so I would have to fix it on my dime.  After I complained about the trouble we have had with the unit, they agreed to send a parts kit and a repairman, but stated this would be the last time they would cover anything.  If they hadn't agreed parts and labor would have been $350 on a unit less than two years old.  Got the parts kit quickly, and the repairman changed out the parts--including one of the pumps which his tests determined was also failing--it had become really loud.  It is now working, although I have no idea how long it will be before the next problem. At the next problem, I'm not calling Electrolux, I'm just throwing this dishwasher out and buying a Bosch.  I would never buy this dishwasher again, nor frankly would I buy any additional Electrolux appliances.  My family members have $500 dishwashers which have lasted far longer and frankly clean the dishes better than this appliance.  This is not an Electrolux of European quality, its a Frigidaire with Electrolux stamped on the outside.  Electrolux is doing itself some serious damage in the US market with appliances like this.  We also have their gas range, which I have also rated poorly, because of some easily avoidable poor design features.  Avoid this dishwasher!!\n\nDecember 2010  :)  The happy face is because sometimes in life you just have to laugh!!!  So after the last fix it has lasted 8 months.  Tonight Error Code 1.  I'm staying true to my last comment, its going in the garbage and I will buy a Bosch tomorrow.  This is clearly a case of a manufacturer foisting a defective product on the public.  I'm going to review the California Lemon Law and possibly discuss with an attorney.  This is a $1300 appliance!!!  Quite simply, unbelievable!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4646, "id": 62633, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 672, "len_tokens": 839, "text": "In the heirarchy of cooktops, induction is king. Although induction is powered by electricity, it should not be confused with traditional electric cooking.\n\nInduction provides instantaneous results. The speed of heating a pan is amazing (surpasses gas and electric in speed and control), it does not throw heat (other than the hot pan), and the lack of heat generated beneath the surface means the cooktop is much cooler than either electric or gas, because there are no heating elements in the unit. Also, induction costs far less to operate than gas or electric.\n\nThis unit has digital controls (with a lit display that only shows when it is on), and I know, for example, that olive oil will burn in the pan above 5, but 4.5 is perfect for sauteing. And it will remain perfect for sauteing throughout the entire cooking process, it will not get hotter or colder.\n\nFurthermore, you can store anything on the cooktop (we keep a bottle of olive oil on there, as well as a non-magnetic spoon rest. They stay cool to the touch regardless of how many units are on.\n\nNow there are downsides.\n\n1. Cost: cost prohibitive for many, by far the most significant factor. There are no freestanding range/oven combos, which means that you need to spend money on individual range and oven to get a functional kitchen. Furthermore, unless you have a 40A cooktop in place, you will need to upgrade your electric. The total cost for us was around thirty two hundred for both the wall oven and the cooktop, with an additional cost of $150 for the electrician, and about $300 in replacing the pans.\n\n2. Cookware: although most high end pans are made to be induction compatible, the majority of widely available cookware is not. Especially non-stick. I found a couple nice \"eco\" non-stick pans at a homegoods store, but be advised to take a magnet along with you shopping, and only buy pans to which it sticks. That being said, all-clad is typically induction compatible, and there is a wide movement to making pans that way.\n\n3. Probably not a wise investment at this point if looking for a return on a home renovation for sale. While many people discover the benefits of induction for themselves, it hasn't taken off in the US yet, and most people won't know the difference until using it.  I doubt people would recognize the benefits if we went to sell the house. Perhaps a brochure would be in order...\n\nNow for those that hate electric cooking, but don't have gas lines, this is an amazing solution--I think it is far better than the other methods of cooking. Also, if you frequently cook but have a smaller kitchen, this will keep it cooler.\n\nIf you have gas lines, I'd have to say that the benefits of induction (compared to gas) do not outweigh the initial cost. This cost could be recouped by energy savings if you cook A LOT, or by weighing in other considerations, such as small children being burned.\n\nThe 30\" is very useful, and is equivalent to a standard freestanding cooking range. The 36\" model would be appropriate if you are accustomed to having a 6 burner cooktop.\n\nI don't have any basis for comparison to other induction units, but I cannot find any faults with this unit.\n\nUPDATE:\n\nAfter cooking on this for over a year, I have a few additional comments:\n\n1. Some induction compatible pans make noise when heating, not loud, but rather annoying.\n2. The glass has scratched slightly in places. Still looks very sleek though.\n3. Controls are annoying to clean. Despite the \"control lock\" button, when you clean the rest the water activates the buttons, making an error message and a beeping noise.\n4. There should be a better way to seal off the edges next to the countertop. Has anyone tried silicon?\n5. There are now \"all in one\" cooktop/oven slide in units available.\n\nUPDATE:\n\nBarkeepers friend works extremely well to clean the cooktop", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4647, "id": 62695, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 695, "len_tokens": 816, "text": "I use this cooktop on a 30amp circuit with Anolon hard anodized copper bottom cookware. I read a lot of reviews about this cooktop and was worried about the performance of the cooktop relative to a gas cooktop, wondered if my circuit had enough juice to power this cooktop and stressed over buying cookware that would not buzz or rattle. Getting a gas cooktop was unfortunately not an option with the home I just purchased and regular electric cooktops have never impressed me. I did not buy this on Amazon and bought it at a local big box that starts with L, ends in S and has a OWE in the middle. Price was the same as Amazon, at the time, and preferred to buy local in case I had to return due to lack of compatibility with my countertop or the electric needs. I was also able to get a 4 year in-home warranty from the same store for 120 bucks  which was a bargain in my opinion. I've been using this cooktop for 3 months now and so far zero issues with my 30amp circuit. Ive even turned all burners on to a high setting and did not trip the breaker. This cooktop is the real deal and I can't believe I'm saying this but I actually prefer it over gas. The heat control, clean up and lack of hot surfaces on pot handles really make it shine. The heat control for me has been the biggest surprise.  Heat setting for each burner goes up in half steps. 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, etc. As me and my wife get more experience cooking on it we share settings with each other to see what numbers work best. Everything we are making is remarkably consistent now. Pancakes are always golden, pasta is prefect etc. no more guesswork! It's as simple as finding the best number for each burner according to what your making. Ex: we make pancakes on the large burner using number 3. I read one review where somebody mentioned that they had trouble cleaning the touch screen control area due to water canceling out the control lock? Read another where someone mentioned it easily scratches? Several where they talked about \"relearning how to cook everything\" on induction coming from gas or regular electric? No to all in my experience. Cleaning and Scratches: Push and hold the control lock for 5 seconds and nothing on the cooktop will work except the timer button. I use Weiman glass cooktop wipes to get off any food and then little dots of Weiman glass cooktop cleaner with a baby burb cloth. Gets it showroom clean every single time with less than 2 mins of effort. You want to clean it like this for the simple fact that hard particles like salt and a flat bottom pot surface will definitely lead to scratches. I clean it after every use and always check my flat bottom cookware prior to use and I've had no scratch issues. Relearning how to cook? Really? I think the learning curve is similar to getting a new TV or cell phone. Sure awkward the first time or two but by no means a complete relearning. I did end up using silicon around the edges to prevent any possible leakage between the cooktop and countertop. Cooktop kit does include a black adhesive strip in lieu of recommending a silicon bond. If I could do it again I would of probably not used silicon as it does not look as slick and the included strip that sits between the cooktop and counter seemed more than adequate. I did a separate review for the pots and pans but long story short it seems to me that basically all pots and pans will buzz on induction to some degree. The ones i use slightly buzz at high temps but its  minimal and when at normal cooking temps there is no buzz. If your ready to make the upgrade, have money to swap pans and don't mind  a possible electric upgrade I say go for it. I'm very happy with this purchase and have been telling everyone about induction.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4648, "id": 62710, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 655, "len_tokens": 833, "text": "For several years I had read about induction cooktops and thought I'd love to have one - if we ever remodeled, knowing that we wouldn't do that!!!!  Well, my husband surprised me with a kitchen remodel - pretty much going with anything I wanted.  I DO love to cook and always have.  I studied and researched induction cooktops, and am thrilled to have one.  Even my husband loves cooking with it - it is a HUGE learning curve.  I have used both gas and electric in the past.\n\nYes, I did need to get new pans (I'd really never had new pans in our 40 years of marriage, but rather a hodge-podge of things given to us.  It worked.  Well, we went with the Demire Atlantis line (yes, luxury) and at my husband's suggestion got them while the kitchen was being remodeled and I was cooking on a single hot plate.  Let me tell you, those pans are incredible - even on a cheap hot plate!!!  And . .yes, they're great on the induction cooktop.  I realize much of this paragraph is on the pans, but . .in that you must have magnetic pans, I thought I'd just address that issue here, too.)\n\nWhen we were looking to buy the cooktop, my husband really encouraged me to buy the 5 burner cooktop.  I insisted \"no\" - I'd never needed 5 burners in all my years of cooking, even for larage crowds; what I always ran out of was oven space! (and yes, we did get two full-size wallovens.  So . . we got the 4 burner - and now I wish I'd gotten the 5 burner, only because on the induction cooktop you must more accurately match your pan size than on other types of cooking surfaces that I've used.  I've always worked hard to match size of pan to the burner as closely as possible.\n\nAs stated in the first paragraph, for me/us, other than for boiling water (which is incredible!), the cooking learning curve was HUGE.  I'd never bothced an omelette, but . . did my first time on the induction cooktop; it was edible but not a \"looker\" at all!!. But . . keep at it - you'll get it!!!!  I did!  For me, I needed to use numbers higher than expected.\n\nI LOVE that I can put things on the cooktop - such as the food dishes w/all the ingredients for a recipe - and not worry about hot burners, pot holder catching fire, etc. (only heat on the cooktop is from a pan that has been on the stove and transferred heat to the cooktop.  Recently I had a big dinner, and immediately after I used the cooktop, I put a woven cloth rug over the top and used the cooktop for buffet serving.  It worked great and looked fine, too!\n\nI do wish the unit had knobs vs. touch-pad for the controls.  It's SOOOO much easier to turn a knob to exactly where you want than to keep touching and pressing a button to get where you want to go with it.\n\nAlso, both my husband and I wish the \"burners\" were not sooo hard to see (hence the 4 star rating, not 5).  We have to turn the hood light on and undercabinet lighting on, also, so that we can see where the burner is (as you must place your pan on the burner - not partially off, etc.  Certainly it could have been made so that each burner was more easily seen/identified.  I am guessing they are done as they are so that the unit has a sleeker, less \"stove-top\" look.  I'd rather not have to get at just the right angle to find my burner - it's a stove, so . . I don't mind it looking like one!\n\nOverall - it's great and am excited we ventured out and tried something so new!!!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4649, "id": 62730, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 626, "len_tokens": 827, "text": "We purchased this in March of 2009. It came with the following:Turntable, Convection grid, Crisper pan & handle, baking tray and steamer vessel.\n\nThere are so many features in here that I don't think I've used everything.\nFirst, the Convection Microwave Oven:\nDe-Frost - I'm not a big menu planner so defrosting before I cook has to work quickly and efficiently for me. Apart from the usual cooking power options (High 100%, 90%, 80% etc) I can choose from Meats, Poultry, Fish, Bread, Juice & Manual. The microwave calculates the defrosting time based on the weight that I input. The manual has guidelines and pound to kilogram conversions.\n\nRe-Heat - The options include Dinner Plate, Sauce, Soup, Pizza, Casserole, Beverage and Manual. The microwave bases the reheating on how many cups of sauce/soup/casserole/beverage is inputed and the number of slices of pizza. For example, I want to heat a cup of coffee. (Ghastly to some, I know, but I've done it) The microwave will ask you how many cups and whether you want it warm or hot. Simple & easy.\n\nManual Cooking - Just input the cooking power and the cooking time and you're all set!\n\nPopcorn - Works like in other microwave ovens. Pop it based on the bag size.\n\nSteam Cooking - The vessel comes in 3 parts: the cover, the food holder and the water container and they all fit together. I've steamed fresh vegetables, frozen vegetables and a lot of dim sum. They've all been delicious. The options are Potatoes, Fresh Vegetables, Frozen Vegetables, Fish fillets, Shrimp & Manual. Again, the microwave calculates the cooking times on how many cups and how many ounces. The steaming vessel is dishwasher safe.\n\nSoften/Melt - The options are Butter, Margarine, Ice Cream, Cream cheese and the softening/melting time is based on how many sticks and ounces you have. We love to bake and we have a fondness for ice cream cakes so this has been so useful.\n\nCrisper Pan Frying - This is the one feature that I've only tried a couple of times. I still like to use the old frying pan, I'll admit. I followed the guide in the manual and made an omelet.\n\nTimer - I use this mostly when I'm making pasta on the stove top. I can have this running while the oven is cooking something else.\n\nThe Microwave converts to a Convection oven/Easy Convect. I just put the grid on the turntable. I've done smaller amounts of cookies, some chicken, baked potatoes and french fries this way.\n\nThe bottom part of this oven is the Electric Convection Oven. In \"traditional\" oven mode I can choose from Bake, Broil & Bread Proof. In convection mode, there's Bake, Broil & Roast. Just to give me something else to think about there's also an EasyConvect option. There's also the Options key that does the fahreinheit & celsius conversion, turns the sound on/off/high/low, dehydrates,oven temperature calibration, Sabbath mode and turn the turntable on/off.\n\nTo clean, I turn on the Self Clean Mode, choose the number of hours I want and wipe down when it's cool. The manual advises against using commercial oven cleaners.\n\nAgain, so many features. The bottom line is I've been very happy with this oven. It replaced an ancient GE that came with our house. A lot of thought went into this purchase since we also had to hire someone to chip away at a brick wall that also housed a fireplace that we wanted to keep. I chose this oven because of the brand, the stainless steel, its size & features and because I wanted the microwave oven off my counter. Notice that I mention the manual quite a bit. It has a lot of information!\n\nHighly recommended.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4650, "id": 62761, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 762, "len_tokens": 891, "text": "I really cannot say enough good things about this particular freezer.  We actually have two of these in our home and will soon be adding another. (More about that later).  Right off the top though I want to tell you that when you consider the shipping charges on this model and the asking price here, you can probably do much better if you buy locally.  If you have a truck or larger SUV you can easily carry this thing home and avoid delivery charges.  Anyway...\n\nWe went the route of manual defrost as we have had automatic defrosting units in the past and to be quite frank, they, the automatic defrosting units will cause a significant rise in your electric bill.  With these small units we have found that complete defrosting is quite avoidable if you simply take a nice and sturdy plastic scraper (like the one you use on your car windshield in the winder) and keep the frost build-up down every few weeks are so then the chore of completely emptying your unit is kept to a minimum.  We have found that once ever 18 months or so is quite adequate.\n\nThese units are extremely quiet and there is no problem with the motor/compressor constantly coming on.  We have both of our freezers on our back porch next to an old refrigerator we keep as a back-up and overflow unit.  The reason we choose to purchase and install two smaller units, rather than one large chest unit, is that we found with the large chest unit we simply had too much food wastage over the years.  Food seems to get lost in these things and I for one absolutely hate digging thought bags and packages and freezer containers to find one small item...all the while risking frost bite.\n\nWe always have a large garden and neither my wife nor I do any canning.  This is a choice we made several years ago. All of our produce from the garden in properly prepared and then frozen.  We also buy in bulk and have found we save a tremendous amount of money in doing so. The presence of a large or smaller home freezer makes it possible to capitalize on discounts on perishable foods.  This we do often. The only drawback of this is  the cost of a deep freezer. You can get one like this for under $300 and the annual energy cost varies, but is usually somewhere around $50 a year. To break even, you're going to need to be saving about $60-70 a year on your food costs. For our family, we can sometimes save that much in a month due to our deep freezer. Between the flash-frozen vegetables bought at a discount, the frozen casseroles prepared ahead of time, the breakfast burritos made at an incredibly cheap rate per burrito, the produce from our garden socked away for later, and countless other little things, the deep freezer saves us money almost every single day.\n\nNow another reason we have two of these freezers (and will soon be getting yet another) is that we keep vegetables, of which we use a lot,  in one and we keep meat in another.  We buy our meat in bulk, either at the local store or quite often we will purchase a half-beet.  And of course there are the fish we catch (I am only able to catch really stupid fish, so we do not have that many fish in our freezer at a given time as overall, as a tribe, fish are quite a bit brighter than I am).\n\nWe have been using these units for well over a year now and have had no problems what so ever.  They do have a light on them that tells you they are running which we constantly check.  We did have a power outage last year that lasted for over 24 hours (this was a real bummer), but dry ice took care of that problem and we saved all of our food.\n\nAll in all these are good freezers and if you manage your shopping correctly, they will save you quite a lot of money.  They are light enough that my wife and I can move them from location to location (when empty) with no difficulty what so ever.  We do not use the locking mechanism on our freezers as there is no way a raccoon can get the lid open and they are the only critter that would be interested in their contents other than our grandsons.\n\nDon Blankenship\nThe Ozarks", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4651, "id": 66222, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 727, "len_tokens": 896, "text": "Long story, but, hoping to give details that might apply to other homeowners and solve several issues.  Skip the next paragraph for review of LintEater only.\n\nOver the years, I had grown very frustrated with the design of the dryer vent in our home - from the dryer, the vent goes down an internal wall, underneath the foundation, back up an outside wall, then, out.  (a total of four 90-degree turns) The regular washer and electric dryer that we had before would create lots of condensation in the vent line, and would require vacuuming out with a shop vac about every 6 months. I would routinely extract about 3 gallons of water each time.  In April 2013, I switched to an HE washer and a gas dryer.  Also, switched from a flex vent hose (from dryer to wall) to a semi-rigid hose that added yet another turn to the venting, but, was still within the recommended limits of the new gas dryer.  The HE washer solved the moisture problem, but, the gas dryer was taking even longer to dry than the electric dryer.  A check of the dryer indicated that the gas would only burn for 7 seconds before shutting off.  I was told by an expert that I had a ventilation problem.  A check of local vendors indicated prices ranging from $120 to $159 for dryer vent cleaning.  I searched and found the Gardus LintEater online and decided that the price point was right for me to try this myself.  Glad that I did.\n\nThe Gardus LintEater worked exactly as expected and did the job.  It took about 2 hours to completely clean the vent.  It was a little tricky to get it to push through the 90-degree turns, but, once it did, it moved forward.  It ended up being a 2-person job - one to hold and power the drill, and one to grab the turning rods with bare hands (no burns!) and push the rods through.  I had the shop vac hooked up on the indoor side of the vent and pushed the cleaning brush through from the outdoor side.  At about the 8 foot mark (4 feet from the indoor side), I encountered a tightly packed mass of lint and the brush had trouble breaking it up.  So, I switched to cleaning from the indoor side.  The vac hose adapter has a small hole at the top that allows you to vac and clean from the same side simultaneously.  That did the trick - when I encountered the mass from the indoor side, the brush was able to break it up along with the help of the vac suction.  In a matter of seconds, the LintEater had cleaned out about a 1-cubic foot mass of lint.  The 12-feet of rods that come with the kit was perfect for cleaning the entire length.  After reconnecting the gas dryer, it was absolutely amazing at the difference in the airflow.  The dryer works super fast now and I cannot be more pleased.  This is one of the best investments a homeowner can make!\n\nNote: I did have to make the adapter in order to attach the rods to my corded drill - just a matter of cutting the head off a bolt.  I have a 3/8\" chuck and the rods require a 1/2\" or larger chuck.  If you have to do this, you will know what I mean - just read the instruction manual.  It was not a problem to do, but, I did happen to have the right size bolt already.  Last note: the rods are fairly durable - several times in the process (going around the 90-degree turns and when hitting the lint mass), the drill would turn the rods faster than what they could physically turn, so, the rods would twist up into what looks like a long pretzel.  I fully expected them to break at that point, but, they did not.  I was very happy to see how the rods could take quite a bit of twisting without breaking.  Now that I will be doing routine cleaning, I don't expect to have this problem.\n\nBottom line - if you even think your dryer vent needs cleaning, buy this system and use it; you will be happy you did.  This advice is coming from someone who hardly ever writes a review.  Happy cleaning.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4652, "id": 67010, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 713, "len_tokens": 867, "text": "I bought this at Target last spring and while it wasn't the most perfect product, I was pretty excited about having it.  When people complain about the taste, that's either them not rinsing out the machine initially (which I did) or just using water that isn't the best quality.  I washed mine well a few times with hot soapy water and used water from my Brita water pitcher that I keep in the fridge.  It suggests wasting the first few batches which I did.  The ice tasted fine.\n\nThe ice is a very soft ice which is great for just eating alone.  My kids loved it.  They would just want a cup of ice. Pretty funny.  But because the ice is very soft, it melts very quickly, especially in room temp drinks.  But if you use a lot of it, you can get by with not being too bothered by that. It will make a batch about every 12 minutes which was nice.\n\nAs a side note, the ice melts while sitting in the unit, it is not cooled in any way. It's just like a cooler sitting in your kitchen.  The warmer your house is, the faster it melts.\n\nThe machine is noisy while making ice (it's wasn't as bad as others state though, but then again I'm used to a noisy house with 3 kids. lol.), which I did not mind, but the machine also makes other noises that are not normal...but only after months of having it.  There was enough water, but it sounded like the pump was on it's way out.  I would unplug it for a few days then plug it back in and usually it was better.  Not always though. My husband would tease, it's on it's way out!  I knew it was close.  Not even a year old.\n\nA few months ago, it just stopped freezing the ice cubes.  The machine goes through the motions of making ice, but doesn't actually freeze anything.  What a bummer. So, a year old and now just a worthless piece of junk for $109.00 (luckily it was on sale at Target).  I originally justified the $ by thinking I would use it at parties and for the ice chests on outings, but no you can't.  It just melts too fast and there isn't enough for a party.  I still ended up buying bags of ice for those occasions. Maybe if you bag up this ice then store it in the freezer???\n\nIt was an alright machine while it lasted.  It did light up often that there was too much ice when there really wasn't or the right side where the metal sensor was had a few pieces barely touching it and then the left side of the basket was pretty empty.  As others reviewers states though, just knock the ice down so it's evened out and then hold onto the metal sensor for about 20 seconds then it re-triggers it to start making ice again.\n\nThe machine is a descent size too. It was difficult to maneuver it around to clean it out. I won't miss dealing with that. I would clean it out every week.  Something else I just remembered.  After about 6 months of running it....all the stickly labels (the warning labels) got moldy (black) on the underside of the lid (cover). I thought how stupid to put something paper in an area with direct moisture contact.  Gross.  I scraped it all off with a razor blade and cleaned it really good.  It would be better to take those off first or they should be covered with contact paper or something. What a dumb idea on Emerson's part.\n\nSo, if you are willing to spend the $ for ice for one year, then go for it, but if you expect a machine of that cost to last longer, then look for another one.  I wish the \"good\" reviews stated how long they had owned it.  Over the year, my machine was probably turned on and making ice about 80% of the time.  I have noticed other machines that look identical to this with different names. I can't help but wonder if they are selling the same crappy machine with new names now. Just do your research.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4653, "id": 67932, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 662, "len_tokens": 812, "text": "We bought this range two years ago, when we sold our house of twenty years and moved. I am a fairly serious cook, and just over 60. We bought this with the idea that this was it: a top of the line tool, versatile and durable, a lasting enhancement to our kitchen. And, unless we win the lottery, the last chance to get a high-end range. I haven't experienced the maintenance issues some of the other reviewers have, and in my experience, their customer support was very accomodating. The range looks fabulous. It looks in the kitchen rather like I imagine a brand new Mercedes would look in the driveway.\n\nI absolutely love the oven. I like the touch screen controls. It has features I won't ever use, and bells and whistles I certainly don't need (ramp up lighting??), but it works to perfection. It is super-insulated, preheats quickly, and holds a steady temperature very well. The temperature probe works fine. The lights (there are two) are positioned on the sides of the oven, so they actually illuminate the food rather than silhouette it in backlight. The ball bearing, full-extension racks are great. And the cobalt blue finish is lovely to look at. The warming oven works, but it's pretty small and I don't use it often enough to judge how well it works.\n\nThe cooktop, on the other hand, is downright awful. It was designed by a minimally competent engineer who clearly has never even boiled water. The grid that supports the cookware has two major flaws: the prongs are too far apart to support a small saucepan, and the three sections aren't coplanar--they all are different heights, and they don't line up properly. When it was delivered, the sections were a quarter inch out of alignment in height. I couldn't slide a pan from the lower section to the higher one without lifting it. I called customer service, they were quite apologetic, and they overnighted me a new set. This set didn't align either, but between the two sets I was able to put together three sections that align to each other fairly closely. However, they have a built-in bump on the outer edge of the grid that prevents a 12\" pan from sitting level. Moreover, because of the alignment issues on the top, it is impossible to level both the oven and the cooktop. Three of the burners ignite quickly, but the super-low to super-high burner doesn't want to ignite. I have to go past the ignition point, then back, at least once to get it to catch. On all of the burners, the flame doesn't adjust evenly as you turn the knob. There are wide sections of the knob that don't produce any visible change in the flame. The 'super burner' goes from high heat to below a simmer in a very small portion of the dial. It's very difficult to get it adjusted to a low cooking heat, and the large diameter of this burner makes it not suitable for simmering with a small pan. And, you must look at the flame to know you've actually adjusted the heat when you turn the knob on any of the burners. It is also impossible to adjust the flame low enough to hold a simmer on two of the burners. All in all, the $600 Frigidaire at our last house had a much better cooktop. The only reason I'm giving this review two stars is that I like the oven so much. The cooktop gets zero stars.\n\nThis experience has been especially disappointing because I agonized over the choice of a range. I looked at virtually every range on the market that cost less than $3,500, and felt like I had made a great choice. Unfortunately, you can't test drive ranges. For the price, I expected to get first-class performance in every respect. I could have been much happier for $1,000 less. Don't make the same mistake.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4654, "id": 68676, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 666, "len_tokens": 839, "text": "The below is a running commentary on this unit, from original 2008 purchase to 2010.\n\nThis is a great looking unit with a lot of nice features.  We may just have gotten a bad one, so take this for what it is worth, but we have been pretty frustrated.  The unit keeps showing Code 1 and refuses to work.  I called Electrolux Customer Service, who I must say were honest and stated that their engineers had misdesigned the computer board and they were having a lot of problems.  Said they had redesigned the board and would get one right to us.  About four days later a repairman changed the board out.  Only problem, it is still showing Code 1--a leak in the tub.  So we have a brand new $1300 dishwasher that a contract repairman must completely take apart to fix a seal in the unit.  Not what I would expect for a high-end product.  Wish we had gone with the Bosch.\n\nWant to amend my review a little, and raise this to four stars.  The above unit was defective.  Lets face it, no company is perfect and everyone produces a lemon every once and a while.  I must say that Electrolux customer service was great to deal with.  After I told them that the panel replacement had not fixed the issue, they immediately stated they would replace the entire unit.  We have the new unit in and it is a very nice dishwasher.  Its quiet, does a good job, and has a lot of room inside.  My only complaint would be that if your dishwasher is to the left of your sink, sometimes you will accidentally hit the touch panel on top of the door.  Not a big issue though. We are happy with the unit, so I take back my words about preferring the Bosch.\n\nWell, I will go down to 1 star.  Now, almost two years later, and all of the above, guess what we got with the new unit--Code 1--a leak in the tub, only this time it was also leaking water on the floor.  I called customer service, but they told me that it was past its warranty, so I would have to fix it on my dime.  After I complained about the trouble we have had with the unit, they agreed to send a parts kit and a repairman, but stated this would be the last time they would cover anything.  If they hadn't agreed parts and labor would have been $350 on a unit less than two years old.  Got the parts kit quickly, and the repairman changed out the parts--including one of the pumps which his tests determined was also failing--it had become really loud.  It is now working, although I have no idea how long it will be before the next problem. At the next problem, I'm not calling Electrolux, I'm just throwing this dishwasher out and buying a Bosch.  I would never buy this dishwasher again, nor frankly would I buy any additional Electrolux appliances.  My family members have $500 dishwashers which have lasted far longer and frankly clean the dishes better than this appliance.  This is not an Electrolux of European quality, its a Frigidaire with Electrolux stamped on the outside.  Electrolux is doing itself some serious damage in the US market with appliances like this.  We also have their gas range, which I have also rated poorly, because of some easily avoidable poor design features.  Avoid this dishwasher!!\n\nDecember 2010  :)  The happy face is because sometimes in life you just have to laugh!!!  So after the last fix it has lasted 8 months.  Tonight Error Code 1.  I'm staying true to my last comment, its going in the garbage and I will buy a Bosch tomorrow.  This is clearly a case of a manufacturer foisting a defective product on the public.  I'm going to review the California Lemon Law and possibly discuss with an attorney.  This is a $1300 appliance!!!  Quite simply, unbelievable!!!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4655, "id": 70830, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 694, "len_tokens": 847, "text": "This piece of junk was purchased at Home Depot in 2009 for around $575.\n\nThe first major problem is it barfs up an \"HE\" code meaning the heating cycle is not working.  The underlying problem is LG put the relay for the heating coil on the main circuit board.  The relay can't take the 500-1000 watts or whatever the load is and simply melts.  They actually had a recall at one point because it burned down a few houses.  They blamed it on \"poor soldering\".  Not really, it's poor design that will never work in a million years.  You simply can't run that much power through a small relay and expect it not to fail.  The thing never really dried the dishes anyway so it's hard to tell when it's not working.  The \"fix\" is to replace the main circuit board which is around $125, if I do it myself.  Having someone fix it would exceed the cost of getting a new dishwasher.\n\nThe second problem is the soap dispenser just quit working.  The lid will not stay shut.  We just pour in the soap, slam the lid, swear, and let it run.\n\nThe third problem is it is now making a horrific noise, grinding, whining, like metallic angry chipmunks.  I stuff a old towel at the base to reduce the noise.  There is not delay start so this thing can make it's noise at night.  However, since it can't be trusted because sometimes it barfs up an HE code right away and you have to restart it, so instead of taking 2 hours and 4 minutes to do the dishes, you are up to 2 hours and 40 minutes.\n\nThe fourth problem is the metal clips provided to hold the dishwasher in place are way too thin, looks like 14 gauge steel at best.  There is simply too much space between where the clips attach and where you screw them into the counter top.  Raising the dishwasher by adjusting the legs you can only go so far up.  At any rate after a year or so of loading and unloading dishes the clips popped out while both dish racks were pulled out causing the dishwasher to fall out of the cabinet spilling all the dishes and rack on to the floor.  There's no lip or anything where you can just drive a big screw into the counter top to secure it, just those dang clips unless I want to re-engineer something.  Just looking at it, who thought that design made any sense?  It doesn't, it was probably the cheapest solution they could find.\n\nFifth problem the clips holding the rack wheels are brittle and crack.  Luckily I robbed clips from the other side that are used for the worthless \"adjustable\" shelf feature.\n\nOh yeah, the first night we got it, it peed all over the kitchen floor.  Turns out a seal was not install properly at the factory, so rather than calling service, I simply fixed it myself.\n\nThis thing is really nothing more than an assembly of the cheapest Chinese parts they could find.  Even the silverware holder has worn through. Manufactures can make stuff that's \"not quite right\", but most learn from their mistakes like common warranty issues, complaints, and service people feedback.  Good manufacturers take this feedback and improve the product.  LG obviously has not done this since they are selling the exact POS that we bought in 2009.  Consumer Reports feedback rants on this dishwasher and for good reason.  Now I'm stuck, not worth it to fix it, even if I do the work myself, and a new dishwasher is not in the budget.  Is it just me or it unreasonable to expect an appliance to last 10 - 15 years?  I suppose that's what you get when the parts are made in China and assembled in Korea, probably a contract manufacturer at that who just slaps the LG label on it.  I can't prove that but how can it come to be something is so poor that a company like LG is not aware of the problems?\n\nI have fantasies of taking a pick ax to this POS.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4656, "id": 70890, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 694, "len_tokens": 847, "text": "This piece of junk was purchased at Home Depot in 2009 for around $575.\n\nThe first major problem is it barfs up an \"HE\" code meaning the heating cycle is not working.  The underlying problem is LG put the relay for the heating coil on the main circuit board.  The relay can't take the 500-1000 watts or whatever the load is and simply melts.  They actually had a recall at one point because it burned down a few houses.  They blamed it on \"poor soldering\".  Not really, it's poor design that will never work in a million years.  You simply can't run that much power through a small relay and expect it not to fail.  The thing never really dried the dishes anyway so it's hard to tell when it's not working.  The \"fix\" is to replace the main circuit board which is around $125, if I do it myself.  Having someone fix it would exceed the cost of getting a new dishwasher.\n\nThe second problem is the soap dispenser just quit working.  The lid will not stay shut.  We just pour in the soap, slam the lid, swear, and let it run.\n\nThe third problem is it is now making a horrific noise, grinding, whining, like metallic angry chipmunks.  I stuff a old towel at the base to reduce the noise.  There is not delay start so this thing can make it's noise at night.  However, since it can't be trusted because sometimes it barfs up an HE code right away and you have to restart it, so instead of taking 2 hours and 4 minutes to do the dishes, you are up to 2 hours and 40 minutes.\n\nThe fourth problem is the metal clips provided to hold the dishwasher in place are way too thin, looks like 14 gauge steel at best.  There is simply too much space between where the clips attach and where you screw them into the counter top.  Raising the dishwasher by adjusting the legs you can only go so far up.  At any rate after a year or so of loading and unloading dishes the clips popped out while both dish racks were pulled out causing the dishwasher to fall out of the cabinet spilling all the dishes and rack on to the floor.  There's no lip or anything where you can just drive a big screw into the counter top to secure it, just those dang clips unless I want to re-engineer something.  Just looking at it, who thought that design made any sense?  It doesn't, it was probably the cheapest solution they could find.\n\nFifth problem the clips holding the rack wheels are brittle and crack.  Luckily I robbed clips from the other side that are used for the worthless \"adjustable\" shelf feature.\n\nOh yeah, the first night we got it, it peed all over the kitchen floor.  Turns out a seal was not install properly at the factory, so rather than calling service, I simply fixed it myself.\n\nThis thing is really nothing more than an assembly of the cheapest Chinese parts they could find.  Even the silverware holder has worn through. Manufactures can make stuff that's \"not quite right\", but most learn from their mistakes like common warranty issues, complaints, and service people feedback.  Good manufacturers take this feedback and improve the product.  LG obviously has not done this since they are selling the exact POS that we bought in 2009.  Consumer Reports feedback rants on this dishwasher and for good reason.  Now I'm stuck, not worth it to fix it, even if I do the work myself, and a new dishwasher is not in the budget.  Is it just me or it unreasonable to expect an appliance to last 10 - 15 years?  I suppose that's what you get when the parts are made in China and assembled in Korea, probably a contract manufacturer at that who just slaps the LG label on it.  I can't prove that but how can it come to be something is so poor that a company like LG is not aware of the problems?\n\nI have fantasies of taking a pick ax to this POS.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4657, "id": 70930, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 654, "len_tokens": 857, "text": "So glad to have a space to record a review, in that I really wish I had been privy to them before investing in this misnomer range: professional it is not.  I really wanted a non-stainless, non-black, non-white range and was, therefore, limited in my options, esp. in the smaller size.\n\nIn the last few years, I've cooked and baked on everything from a high-end Gaggenau to a Bosch to an old advocado green GE range from the 70s.  Never have I pulled out a simple bar cookie and found a 2-3\" round burn (I'm talking charred!) spot on the bottom of the item, not coincidentally directly above the opening in the range floor (above the gas) on the right side.  Unbelievable hot spot and completly frustrating experience for an avid, and reasonably skilled, baker.  Received no customer service after various attempts.  My pan was blamed. Finally, I baked the bar cookies again, grabbed my two toddlers, strapped the infant into his carrier and trotted into the showroom of the kitchen supply company from which the range was purchased---slapping the jelly roll pan on the counter.  Took many pictures of the ruined baked good with my salesperson for forwarding to Bertazzoni.  This finally got some action on the part of the supply company.\n\nA service technician was sent out who tinkered with the thermostat, and encouraged me to use convection, noting that most people buying the oven don't bake.  The problem was not fixed and it was clear that it would not (or could not) be.  Everyone kept saying \"Gee, we've never heard of this problem before\" and yet no one would admit that I had a lemon.  Why?  Because (I'm assuming) all Bertazzoni ranges perform in this way.  I was (and am) stuck.  Eventually a pizza stone was purchased for me to help distribute the heat. Instead, I had a \"metal guy\" make a removable disk that slips on top of this \"burn hole\" to help spare my food such intense, focused heat.  There is still plenty of air flow.  Nevertheless, I find myself baking and cooking in convection mode as much as possible.  Never having been a big convection gal, I am thankful I was forced to experiment with this.  It has baked certain things (like pies) beautifully.  However, you cannot successfully bake many things on convection (yeast breads and batter items) because of the need for the heat to come from the bottom-up (and not circulate).\n\nAs other reviewers have noted: low temperatures are almost impossible to find and hold.  Forget about meringues. Even a 300 degree cheesecake requires babying.  You simply cannot turn your oven on, enter the bake time, and walk away.\n\nAnother major problem I have had is in starting a recipe at one temperature and, after a period of time, reducing the temperature for the duration of the baking/roasting time.  I remember being none too happy to start my roast at a hot temperature, and then reduce it 50 degrees for the duration only to check on it near to dinnertime and find it \"ice cold.\"  The oven simply turned off when I turned the temperature dial down. It could not discern that I had moved the dial and stopped before reaching off.  Again, I've baked on many non-digital ranges and never had such a simple (and common) action misunderstood by the range. So, for instance pate a choux type recipe would not work.  When I called Bertazzoni about this problem I was told again, \"Gee, we've never heard of this problem before.  I'll talk to my manager and get back to you.\"  I was never called or otherwise contacted.\n\nUp side: I sprang for the vintage styling in cream and it is beautiful.  The cooktop is great (except that you can't really get a low simmer setting, even with the supplied simmer plate).\n\nOther range vendors: produce enameled/colored ranges. Not everyone wants stainless steel.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4658, "id": 84549, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 734, "len_tokens": 868, "text": "We purchased this dishwasher to replace an aging Frigidaire that had just stopped getting our dishes clean. We decided that we wanted to spend a little extra and get a dishwasher that offered more options, and would match our stainless LG refrigerator purchased earlier this year.\n\nFirst of all, to get the obvious out of the way, this dishwasher is beautiful. Unlike most stainless dishwashers, the handle is more flat than round, which gives the unit a more modern and sleek feel. Also, the control are fully integrated and the layout and presentation of the buttons is intuitive and user-friendly. I have no prior experience with integrated washers, but the only con is that you can't easily see how much time is remaining on the wash cycle because it is hidden under the lip of the counter. The only way to check is to open the door and take a peek.\n\nAs for the interior, the tub is all stainless steel which looks fantastic and promises to hopefully stand up to staining and wear and tear better than a traditional plastic or vinyl interior. On the top and bottom racks, there are two sets of tines that are adjustable so if you are loading oddly-shaped dishes, you are more than likely going to be able to fit them in. Additionally, on the bottom rack, there is a row of tines that is completely removable in case you have large casserole dishes or baking pans that you want to load vertically. The silverware basket is removable and has slots to ensure that utensils stay standing vertically and not laying against each other during a wash cycle. On the top rack there is also a modular \"shelf\" attached to the edge that can be used to hold over-sized utensils. The shelf folds out of the way if you don't need to use it.\n\nNow for the important part: wash performance. Included with the unit are samples of Cascade All-in-One Action Packs and a sample bottle of Cascade Rinse-Aid. To tell you now: TAKE THIS AS A SIGN!!! I can't re-iterate how important it is to use rinse aid and decent detergent. This washer performed flawlessly using these products on the first two washes (there are only two detergent packs included). On our third load, we fell back to our old Palmolive Eco+ detergent (low phosphate) and the results were staggering. While the dishwasher was definitely cleaning better than our old one, the baked on gunk was not entirely removed from the dishes and there was a noticeable haze to the dishes that wasn't there with the detergent packets. Through some research, we found that the low phosphate detergents are notoriously low performers. This doesn't mean that you have to throw away money on the Action Packs though. We are now using plain 'ole powdered Cascade and rinse-aid and our dishes are coming out spotless and shiny.\n\nI've read elsewhere that if you don't use rinse-aid with this dishwasher, your dishes will not be dry at the end of the cycle. I haven't encountered this issue, but I also haven't stopped using the rinse-aid. This dishwasher does not have a heating element in the bottom of the tub, but instead uses a hybrid drying system that uses a fan to remove the moisture from the interior air. This system has worked great for us, and the only time I see leftover water is on the top rack in the concave bottoms of certain glasses. It's not much, and I usually just keep a dish towel nearby if I encounter any and give it a quick wipe on the top.\n\nAs for the additional cycles and settings, the steam function does work very well. As mentioned earlier when using the Palmolive Eco+, the only area of the casserole dish that really got cleaned off was the area that was right next to the steam vent. The wash cycle on this washer is a little long (Usually 2 - 2 1/2 hours) but I'm not usually in any kind of hurry to get my dishes clean, so this isn't really an issue.\n\nFinally, if you're looking for a quiet dishwasher, this is what you're looking for. You can hardly tell when it's running, and the sound it does make almost sounds like a very quiet babbling brook.\n\nHope this helps anybody that is interested in this fantastic dishwasher.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4659, "id": 86038, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 734, "len_tokens": 804, "text": "I bought this range hood because I loved the pyramid look for our stainless steel kitchen remodel. Very bold. The hood had good reviews on Consumer Reports, so I felt comfortable with its quality even though I had never heard of Zephyr before finding it while looking online for range hoods. At a little over $400, it was much more expensive than most range hoods, but I'm not sorry we spent the money. Amazon had the best price of any place I found.\n\nI installed the hood myself and I'm not a professional but just a home DIYer, and it was not too difficult to install, but you really need two pairs of hands to get it in, and read the instructions carefully. The instructions are pretty good, but I changed the installations technique to be able to adjust the height of the hood. Without an extra pair of hands, it's nearly impossible to install. The hood looks fantastic in our kitchen. The hardest part of the installation was getting the the protective plastic wrap off all parts of the hood. It is on all parts of the metal with an adhesive backing and it took a razor blade to get it started but once started, it pulled off fairly easily. You must use great care not to scratch the hood with the razor blade but that was the only way I could figure to get it off.\n\nAs I said, it really takes two people to mount the hood. I tried to do it by my self and gave up and called a friend for a second pair of hands. The hood mounts under your cabinet with simple screws, but I used four inch bolts which I ran through the bottom of my cabinets with the nuts in the cabinet and the bolt heads in the hood. You must hold the hood up to the bottom of your cabinets and mark the holds which takes some care to get it right and the back mounting holes are very difficult to reach but not impossible. Using bolts allowed me to adjust the height of the hood in relation to the bottom of my cabinets by simply tightening up the bolts until the hood was where I wanted it. You cannot adjust the height of the hood with the screws provided with the hood and even reaching them to tighten them up after installing would be very difficult. The only problem with using the bolts was that the nuts are in the bottom of my cabinet which limits the use of the cabinets, but they can't be seen, and the cabinets above my range hood were very small anyway, so this wasn't a big concern for me. The other advantage of this technique was allowing for some room to get your hand in between the hood and the bottom of your cabinets to get the bolt heads aligned with the holes in the top of the hood while also aligning the vent stack onto the exhaust fan. This was a little frustrating but having someone there to hold the hood up while all bolts and exhaust were lined up, was the key to getting it all in at the same time. Once I had the hood at the height I wanted, I inserted shems between the top of the hood and the bottom of the cabinet and tightened up the nuts so that the hood was rock solid above my counter top.\n\nWhen I turned on the fan, my heart sank as the fan was making a loud noise as the fan blades were hitting the fan case. I called Zephyr and they were great. They said it probably got out of alignment in shipping, and they explained how to adjust the fan and stayed on the phone with me while I did it and it wasn't difficult. I was able to adjust the fan in a few minutes and it worked perfectly. The lights on the fan are bright and beautiful over my cook top and the fan is very powerful and even though I have it mounted pretty high over my cook top it pulls and smoke up well.\n\nOverall, I'm very happy with this product and with the customer service at Zephyr. Mounting the hood took a little inqenuity but I think most people with just a little experience can do it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4660, "id": 88956, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 666, "len_tokens": 842, "text": "I've had the slightly different, larger tub model Whirlpool Cabrio Wtw6300ww0 for about 2 years now.  It's pretty much identical to the 6200 except for a slightly bigger volume load.  I didn't see a listing on Amazon for the 6300 so I'm posting them here.\n\nLong story short - all the negative reviews here are pretty much spot on.  It's a given these days that large home appliances are not what they used to be - more cheap plastic parts, built for a few years life cycle to insure repeat business.  My first late 70's vintage washer lasted about 15 years with one repair.  My next 3 lasted barely half a decade apiece.  But this one easily wins the award for biggest POS.\n\nSo about the Whirlpool Cabrio Wtw6300ww0.....  Bought mine from Howards in 2009.  About 3 months after purchase, the main board died, fortunately it was still under warranty and didn't cost me anything but I had to use a laundry mat for almost a week waiting for the part to arrive.  I was told by the repairman the entire Cabrio series  from the last 5+ years has this common problem within the first year.  Since, then, I haven't had any mechanical issues but that's almost beside the point considering how flawed the basic design and construction of this series of washer is.\n\nThe biggest, most instantly obvious issue is it doesn't clean clothes very well is at all and despite the large tub, you really can't fill it with clothes to anywhere near the typical capacity for a typical washer's tub this size.  The way I've found through trial and error to get the best results from this washer is to use an empty extra Gallon+ size washing detergent container, add the required amount of liquid soap  and water mixed in the container and pour in the tub (not the dispenser) directly on the clothes about 5 minutes after cycle starts.  ALWAYS use \"HE\" branded soap to avoid clogging and excessive suds error timeout.  Add maybe another gallon or so of water to make sure the clothes are completely and evenly saturated.  I wouldn't recommend filling the tub more then 1/3rd full of clothes - so much for \"big loads of laundry.\"  During a cycle, you may need to check on the load, especially if it's heavy towels or blankets that may shift to one side causing \"UL\" error timeouts.  You basically have to babysit this thing from start to finish.  Yeah, it's about as close to washing by hand as you can get in the 21st Century, isn't it....\n\nAnother major issue is using bleach on whites.  Same steps as adding soap as mentioned above but add the bleach in with the soap/water via the container a few minutes into the cycle *after* the tub has initially hosed down the clothes with water.  Even with that precaution, a small amount of Bleach water residue will linger in the tub after a load so you should always run the short \"Rinse/Drain & Spin\" cycle with either an empty tub or with a few pieces of junk clothing you don't care about after you run a bleach (whites) load.  Even with that, I've had a number of colored loads still get bleach stained.\n\nAs others have complained, the washer is *very* noisy during the final spin cycles and with sheets, large items such as towels and blankets, they will form into a twisted ball due to the very high speed the drum spins during the final cycle as well as the fact there's no center \"agitator post.\"  Clothes that have ties or worse of all, bras often get twisted and mangled due to catching under the domed agitator.  Also, loose change can actually get under the drum inside the motor assembly, so make sure pockets are empty.\n\nIt's really the worst, most labor intensive home appliance I have ever owned and I look forward to replacing it with a non-Whirlpool washer as soon as possible.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4661, "id": 97788, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 707, "len_tokens": 886, "text": "This is an initial review after 24 hours of operation.  After too many trips over the last couple of years to the grocery story to buy ice for our family, I purchased the ES IB120SS ice maker after extensive research. I also bought the 3-year extended warranty policy.  The unit was delivered several days ago, and I set it up yesterday in our basement, connecting the water line to our existing reverse osmosis water filter system.\n\nWithin 40 minutes, the first batch of ice was produced. It continued producing ice steadily.  (After 3 hours, I threw out all the ice, and thoroughly washed out the ice bin, as instructed in the installation steps.)\n\nHowever, this morning, I discovered that the ice maker itself had stopped producing ice sometime during the night.  (The condenser seemed to be working fine, and the interior of the freezer unit was cold.)  The metal arm that detects a full bin was partially up, and the white \"arms\" that rotate and push out the ice cubes had stopped in an odd position.  After some inspection, I discovered that a bit of ice had formed at one spot on the white plastic top rim of the ice mold, effectively jamming the white arm at that location.  I carefully broke the ice away, and the white arms immediately started rotating, and a moment later the ice mold filled with water.\n\nI'm not sure how water could have dripped or splashed onto that location. My guess, however, is that as the white arms rotate, they carry with them a drop or two of water. In that particular location, the drop accumulates on the rim, and quickly freezes. More drops of water accumulate and freeze, until the bit of ice there is large enough to finally stop the white arms from rotating.\n\nI\"ll continue to report on what happens.\n\nUpdate 2017-09-02:\nThe ice maker module continued to accumulate ice on its top plastic rim at one end, jamming the white arms that release the ice.  This occurred about every 4-5 hours.  I called EdgeStar customer support, and they were very helpful.  The support rep first said that they would send out a new ice module and find a locale technician to install it (all covered under warranty).  A few minutes later she called back and said that the module was not in stock and that they would send me a complete replacement unit (yes, the whole appliance).  It arrived a few days ago, which I immediately installed.  So far there have been no problems with ice build-up on the ice maker module.  I also noticed that the compressor seems to run a bit quieter than the original appliance.  (Or maybe I'm just used to the sound now.  We have it in our basement, and it cannot be heard in the next room or upstairs.)  Only downside is that I need to pack up the original unit and ship it back.  But fortunately I kept the original box and packaging, and EdgeStar is paying for the return shipping.\n\nI'm upgrading my rating from 3 to 4 stars, because of the good customer service and prompt shipping of the new unit, and because this unit seems to be working.\n\nUpdate 2018-02-03:\nSince I received the replacement unit from EdgeStar, this unit has continued to operate flawlessly, cranking out a bin of ice (about 6 lbs) every 12 hours\n\nThat being said, defrosting the unit every 4-6 weeks is critical.  (It is not a self-defrosting unit; but I knew that when I bought it.)  Otherwise, ice will build up on the interior from frost and water splashes, and jam the mechanism.\n\nDefrosting the unit, however, is easy.  I simply turn the unit off, open the door, remove the ice bin, and place a large cloth towel in the interior, making sure that the towel is pushed against all sides and corners. (This prevents the ice water from running out of the interior compartment and onto the floor.)  Leave the door open for about six hours, and it's defrosted. Toss the wet towel in the laundry basket, put the ice bin back in, and turn the unit back on.  Twelve hours later, the bin is again full of ice.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4662, "id": 100257, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 654, "len_tokens": 803, "text": "Stains are fading! I've been using it for approximately 1 month now and I've noticed the stains in my dish cloths and cloth napkins are fading away! My clothes seemed to be looking better but I thought it was my imagination, until I noticed & watched those specific stains. I guess it's the smaller loads or something? Whatever! It works better than the standard washer I was using... And it's Eco-friendly! Win-win!\n  If you were wondering about ease of use... Be sure to measure the water, per the instructions, and away you go. I do switch arms to keep the workout balanced... Generally, 2-3 loads each day I do laundry; alternating arms by day, not load. Once you get it going it's 100% aerobic...but EASY! The water gets flowing & it is almost self-propelled; if you feel like you are struggling you have too much water or clothing... Or you didn't get it going fast enough, crank faster. Once you get the speed right, the water seems to do most of the work. Just remember not to smash the clothes in too tight and you should be fine. [When you drain the water, if the clothes fill more than half of the washer... you got too many clothes in there!]\n  As for drying, I use the Nina Spin Dryer - also from The Laundry Alternative. They are a perfect match. By the time I finish another load in the Wonder Washer, letting it drain for a while between \"cycles\", the prior load is almost done hang drying. I let the rinse drain until the first load dries, then I spin dry and hang. It makes the process almost relaxing. A friend stopped by while I was washing & was amazed that things hang dry as fast as his big electric dryer can dry things. He was also amazed at how much fit inside the washer...looks can deceive.\n\nADDENDUM:\n  Now that I have used the washer for a year, let me just say that my clothes like the gentle treatment! Stains don't last, fabrics have smoothed out, and the things I have purchased since buying it still look like new... it's like a front-load washer only MORE gentle!\n  I see that they have updated the lid, which I think is a great idea. The first time my daughter used mine she didn't get it closed all the way cuz my old style lid requires many turns to tighten/seal it... she spilled water everywhere. But just once!\n  I have oiled it once but it is squeaking here & there so I will probably have to oil it again soon... making oiling necessary about twice a year. I haven't had to replace any parts but they are all available from The Laundry Alternative. It was super easy to put together [when it arrived] and replacing parts that break instead of buying an entire washer is another bonus.\n  I have to admit, I do 3 cycles most of the time.  I do the detergent cycle, a white vinegar cycle, and end with a softener cycle. I crank each cycle for the 2 minutes they recommend for washing. I count 120 cranks; as the cranks take about 1 second each. That's 6 minutes of cranking per load. [Super dirty stuff gets extra rinse water thrown in WHILE DRAINING & comes out clean.] I also alternate forward & backward cranking, not just left & right arms, & my arms look GREAT! Just thought I would throw that in.\n  I should add that I am enjoying the exercise factor. It has gotten so easy to crank that I love doing laundry! I also find that the rest of my body benefits from the isometric exercise; holding the rest of my body still while cranking has toned me from head to toe...And my clothes look great on my toned self; more bonuses!!!\n  One year later, still cranking & loving it!!! ^_^", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4663, "id": 100426, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 665, "len_tokens": 839, "text": "14 Jun, 2014 - My wife and I camp at the two week long Pennsic War each year.  It's an SCA event with ~10k people in a single campsite, with limited access to laundry facilities.  Bought this in order to maintain our practice of using cloth diapers for our 1 year old son at war this year.  Tried it out once in the bathtub already and we were quite impressed with it's performance and ease of use.  Will post an updated review after the event with \"real world\" insight.\n\nWARNING to the squeamish - diapers can be a dirty business.\n12 Aug, 2014 - UPDATE!  After Pennsic this year I can give excellent reports on this washer! We made it through the entire length of our stay still using cloth diapers for our son.  We brought plenty of cotton diaper liners, had to wash in the WonderWash twice for diapers alone. (We washed some of our period garb as well, but we brought enough to last our trip, so this review will focus on our diapers) We also used wool diaper covers that my wife made out of sweaters from Goodwill. Brought along two 5 gallon buckets for water and for use as a \"diaper pail\" to soak the dirties in. Poopy diapers were scraped clean before soaking in the diaper pail, pee diapers were simply soaked.\n\nA typical load was: ~20 cotton liners into the Wonderwash, a quarter capful of Ecover brand laundry detergent, and about 3 gallons of water. Cranked for about 2 minutes.  I didn't count turns or time (we were chatting while working.)  Attached the drain, loosened the lid and let it drain while I refilled my bucket. Come back, remove drain, fill with about 3 more gallons of water. Close lid and crank for another 2 minutes. Drain after rinsing.\n\nWe did 3 rinses for each load of diapers.  This was perhaps overkill, but considering they're diapers and next to super sensitive skin which seems to break out in a rash in the blink of an eye, we wanted to get them super clean.  Wringed to remove as much water as possible and then hung on a line behind our tent to dry.\n\nOverall, the diapers came out VERY clean and well washed.  There were a few stains remaining from the diaper rash cream we use, but even the home washer doesn't get that out.  Line drying our diapers was another story however, the weather simply did not cooperate, and just as we were nearing complete dryness of the diapers, the skies opened up and poured rain down upon us.  Oh well!\nWe had enough liners to make it through until we could dry sufficiently; though we did get close to running out one day.\n\nThis washer comes with my highest recommendation for Pennsic.  I would compare it's wash cycle to a \"gentle\" cycle in a normal washer, so there is no fear about washing garb with delicate lace, trim, tassels or things like that.  It does take a bit of technique to get used to how fast to turn the crank.  You want to turn it fast enough to get some \"sloshing\" action going.  If you turn it too slowly all you're doing is flipping the clothes (possibly a super gentle wash.)  If you turn too quickly, the clothes all stay at one end and never slosh down (centrifugal force.)\n\nI think I will peel off the stickers and paint the Wonderwash in browns and black with a faux wood finish, so that it will look less modern and anachronistic in our camp at Pennsic. I already painted our plastic buckets to look like wood.\n\nAdded bonus #1: Our son loved splashing & playing in the clean water bucket while I cranked!\nAdded bonus #2: The empty washer can store all of the critical laundry items, making for easy packing and organization.  We packed a bottle of detergent, clothespins and roll of clothesline all inside with room to spare.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4664, "id": 100454, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 692, "len_tokens": 816, "text": "This thing does get clothes clean. There is a problem in the mechanism of the washer.\n\nCON: I have had some fun trying to figure out how to fill this thing up. if I fill it up on my bathroom counter, my sink is too low, so I have to use a jug and transfer the water to the drum. that takes forever. If I fill it up in my bathtub, I have to bend over and it is hard on my back. Not to mention, the spout on my bath tub does not hang directly over the hole of the drum. I have to pick it up to fill up the drum. When I try to pick it up, the suction cups get stuck to the bottom of the tub, and are very annoying to peel off one by one.\n\nCON: Another issue I've noticed is when I place the pipe on the bottom of the drum to drain the water, water starts to come out at the connection site. Even if I put the pipe on really fast, water still comes out. It's like trying to put something in your mouth while it is filled with water....It's hard to prevent water from coming out of your mouth. I have to place a towel underneath the machine to soak up all of the spilled water.\n\nPRO/CON: Also, spinning the machine can become really annoying. I suppose when you consider the work that is put into hand washing, this is much easier, compared to most forms of handwashing. This is not much of a complaint. It's only to say, you are still going to have to use elbow grease to work the machine.\n\nPRO: This machine can hold a lot of clothes. I washed 4 big heavy duty dry off towels, and about 8 face towels in one load.\n\nPRO: This machine does a really good job in making your clothes smell good compared to a washing machine. If your laundry detergent is scented, your clothes will have that scent. If you use fabric softener on the rinse cycle at the end, even better.\n\nPRO: It will get your whites super white. Better than a washing machine. Washed my daughters' uniform shirts and socks, and khaki pants(which I always use bleach to wash, but they don't get bleach stains) and they were sooooooooooo clean. WOOOW!!!\n\nHOW I USE IT:  I do a cold rinse first. I fill the machine until I see water above the clothes, I then tighten the top and start spin in one direction until I get tired. I try to do 3 minutes or more. Also sometimes I change directions(I think out of boredom). And sometimes I go fast in one direction, then in the other. I will stop doing this, because in my mind, it will damage the handle in the long run. That may not happen, but I'm affraid it will. (That's just how I think). Next, I empty the machine using the pipe if it's on the counter, or I tip it over if in the bath tub. I fill it up with the hottest water my faucet provides and laundry detergent and do the same thing. I fill my water separate so I can mix the detergent (and bleach if needed), then add the clothes if in the bathtub, or add the water last if on the counter. Then, I empty the machine and do a cold rinse, just like the first rinse cycle. I then empty the water, and transfer the clothes to my Laundry Alternative spin dryer (which I notice is not sold on this website). Then I hang them to dry.\n\nThis all takes about 15-30 min on for one load (excluding the drying).\n\nHope I got everything. Please ask any questions you'd like. I took away one star because I wish it were easier to use. Just opening and closing, filling, emptying the machine....ugh, just so annoying. But it does get the job done, with less water and time than your washing machine. So I will give it the 4 stars that it deserves.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4665, "id": 100506, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 677, "len_tokens": 897, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R2FPUQ2LQDNXRQ\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/B1pi2-xEgKS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61%2BdNYRtbuS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">I recently traveled to Uganda (East African country) in October 2013. I had purchased this machine years ago for my own use and loved it. So I took it to a friend of mine who is a missionary in Africa for her to use. We both work as volunteers for a health care organization called Kissito.org. Kissito works with villagers in Africa to bring health and maternity care to villagers. So we demonstrated the washer to them after learning that the girls in African families must do all the family laundry each day before going to school. If they don't finish the laundry, they must miss school. Hoping to show the families something that could help them do their laundry well, and do it quickly, we took the machine into the villages. This video clip is one of a local villager who transports patients to the local health clinic demonstrating the machine to a group, including teasing a boy who is trying to turn the handle. This is the machine in action!\n\nWhat I love about this machine is it is pretty sturdy, since it withstood a year of my daily use, plus it survived 500 African villagers cranking on it all in ONE day!\n\nIf you thought red Georgia clay was hard to get out of clothes, you haven't been to Uganda, east Africa.  These villages have no electricity, no paved roads, lots of kids (average family has 7 children) and lots of dirty clothes. Families there LIVE in dirt huts, farm, play, work and have the dirtiest clothes imaginable, yet the WonderWash got load after load of clay and dirt soiled clothing CLEAN! The villagers were amazed, as was I.\n\nI mean after all, my gym stains and smelly, lightly dirty clothes I expected to get clean, but the grime and dirt that rinsed out of the WonderWash when put to a REAL test was stunning. It was SO effective our organization is trying to find a way to get MORE machines to Africa. Why? Because the girls in each family are tasked with washing the family's clothes every morning before leaving for school. If they don't finish the laundry, they must MISS school to do so. WonderWash could CHANGE the world simply by providing the ability to wash clothes fast enough that these girls can do the laundry and get to school on time.\n\nWHY WONDER WASH ROCKS\nIt's lightweight, yet sturdy. I mean, after all it stood up to the rigors of a hike and trip in the back of an SUV on really rocky, difficult roads to get to an African village! It traveled TO Africa in a plastic tub packed with medical supplies, and survived the airline's handling without a crack or scratch!\n\nIt is easy to assemble.\n\nIt's durable. More than 500 villagers each had a chance to crank on the handle over the period of ONE DAY as we moved into three separate villages and demonstrated the machine with clothes the villagers brought to us. Kids, men and women of all ages and strengths gave it their best and it kept on working!\n\nIt cleans! At one village we received a pair of pants a toddler had soiled himself in, a bloody towel from a health clinic, a pair of men's pants used by a man herding cattle and soiled with manure, and several very delicate, beautiful and colorful women's dresses, plus a large scarf. We washed them ALL in one load and they ALL came out CLEAN! Plus, they smelled GREAT!\n\nI can't say enough GOOD about this machine. I used it in the USA for a year until I got a car and could go to the laundromat where there was also a dryer. The only thing NOT to like about this washing machine is you do have to wring the clothes out and hang them up to dry...not a big deal. It works and for the price there's nothing better! I love it!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4666, "id": 100507, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 697, "len_tokens": 804, "text": "let me start off by saying i live in a largeer than average household. 7-8 people there at all times so the amount of laundry to be done by the end of the week can just about fill up the back of my dodge pick-up. this translates into 25-30 bucks at the laundry mat every week to run the machines and buy cleaning chemicals and dryer sheets. i've had my eye on this machine for a while now. once we finally saved up enough money to buy a used washer and dryer off craigslist i bit the bullet and ordered this as well as the mini spin dryer for only $130 shipped straight to my door and saved a few bucks in the process. this washer has been a dream come true i wish i had these 20 years ago real talk. despite being so many people in the house i manage to keep up with ALL the laundry simply doing 2 or three loads throughout the day. the washer does a reeeally good job of getting the clothes clean. here's my preferred method. i fill up with hot tap water to the middle mark. add a little liquid tide detergent. like maybe a tablespoon and the same amount in baking soda. give it a quick stir with the spoon kept in the baking soda box and insert clothing until all clothes are wet and come up to the water line. i turn the handle slowly about ten times to build up pressure then walk away. sometimes for 30 minutes. sometimes for 12 hours. when i finally return i turn the crank 20 more times, drain then rinse with about 25 turns of the handle then transfer to the spin dryer and start another load in the wash to begin the soaking cycle. also, in the rinse cycle i use cold water and one tablespoon of bounce fragranced fabric softener. clothes come out super clean, soft, and best of all smellin great. the only reason i got away with buying this set instead of a real washer and dryer is because i do all the laundry anyway so it really didn't matter what anybody else thought, i don't regret this purchase one bit and if it breaks i want another just like it immediately ordered pronto!!! i gotta have it. they make electric washers which are cool too but with my style of washing which includes 70% soaking inside of a pressurized capsule, this works out best to my advantage. Jeans, towels, bedsheets...no problemo. comforters will need a front loader but i'll cross that bridge when i get there. I'm not one of those environmental geek types but man i must admit...it feels good to be conserving power. another plus is i plan on purchasing a truck camper eventually which has a very small compressed living space in it. this makes it possible to boondock for days at a time with only one spare outfit on board. to those skeptical about being able to keep up doin laundry this way...don't be. if i can do it so can you. me and the wife work 50 hour plus weeks and deal with kids outside of work.once u see how incredible this machine works and realize u can do the laundry from the day before everyday and always have an almost empty basket you'll somehow incorporate this washing method into your everyday life. i spend total maybe 25 minutes a day washing rinsing or hanging clothes but my basket stays empty which to me makes it all worth it. normally id spend 2 hours at the laundry mat anyway not to mention sorting thru the clothes, hauling them up there hopin it doesnt rain and being away from home. its just an inconvenience all the way around.most people i tell this about is more less worried about what their gf will think and what others will think. My suggestion..f**k what people think and start saving some serious cash. i giggled to myself using this for the first time but after that wasn't nothing funny about it. this is one serious little machine and it does what its supposed to.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4667, "id": 100579, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 697, "len_tokens": 853, "text": "We bought the Wonderwash because we live in an NYC apartment with an expensive laundry room and we just had a baby who makes lots of dirty clothes. We've only used it a few times so far, and it seems to work pretty well. I used it while 9 months pregnant and within a week of giving birth and didn't find it too straining, although it definitely helps to have it on the counter instead of in the bathtub or on the floor to keep from straining your back too much. There are a few cons or areas for improvement that I've noticed, though.\n\n-It would help to have some sort of markings on the inside of the machine to show the lines for a quarter, half, full load, etc., because that affects how much water you use (water fill lines would also be helpful). I know that is kind of a silly thing to say, since you'd assume I can eyeball whether the thing is 3/4 full or not, but I would love to know if my eyeballing is close to what the manufacturers are thinking, especially if that's going to effect how clean my clothes get. I don't weigh my laundry every time I do it, so they could give a little more assistance here.\n-I wish the frame were a little sturdier. It really feels like I'm pushing it pretty hard when I'm spinning a full load for two minutes, because the legs are kind of shaky. I haven't heard of anybody saying it just broke or something, but I think they could stand to add some metal to the frame or something. That would add what, like $2 to manufacturing costs? I don't know. But I would pay for it.\n-I wish there were a more efficient method for rinsing. It takes a while for water to drain out the bottom (when I rinse, I just tip it over afterward to get most of the water out), and I usually have to do it a couple of times to get all the suds out. Not the worst thing in the world, but I wish it were quicker/more effective.\n\nOverall, though, it's so easy to use, saves us lots of money, and works pretty well. I'm planning to use it for cloth diapers once the baby is out of his tiny newborn disposables, so that will DEFINITELY impact my review. If I forget to come back for an update, just remind me, because I was desperate to find suggestions about whether this machine would work with cloth diapers & I only found one or two mentions of it online, so I'd like to help anyone else with the same question.\n\n**EDIT FOR CLOTH DIAPER INFO**\nWe've been using this for about 6 weeks now with our baby and our cloth diapers and so far, it's fantastic. No issues with odor, build up, or staining. Same complaints still apply, but it's already more than paid for itself in money saved buying disposable dipes or doing laundry in our building's machines ($1.50/load). A few tips, though:\n-We've only ever used Charlie's Soap, which is low-suds detergent and studies have shown it to leave little to no residue\n-We keep our routine flexible based on the particular load we have in, generally meaning we leave room to add more rinses and sometimes mix it up with really hot rinses vs. cold rinses (not always the same thing)\n-We use BumGenius Freetimes, which have suedecloth and microfiber, and they get really clean. I can imagine natural fibers would only be easier to get clean.\n-Since it takes so many cycles, we often just flip the machine over to drain it instead of using the drain spout. It saves a lot of time.\n\nOur routine is this (approximately):\n-Warm rinse full of water for 60 rotations\n-Super hot wash with .5 Tbsp Charlie's Soap and whatever amount of water is recommended for load size\n-Same thing\n-3 rinses (one cold & full, two hot with the amount of water used to wash the dipes; the order changes)\n-Extra rinses as needed for non-soapy or clear water", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4668, "id": 100621, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 665, "len_tokens": 833, "text": "I bought this for my family, as we live in a very small apartment with no available laundry. The laundry mat (for me, my husband, and my little girl) was costing anywhere from $70- $100 a month, and that still leaves the massive amounts of dirty towels and sheets and comforters that I never seemed to get around to... The product is really intended for singles, college kids, etc, but as a housewife with normal amounts of laundry (not to mention a baby on the way!) I am very impressed. In 30 minutes, I can wash and rinse about 4-5 loads. Of course, this was after trial and error, and learning to have everything at hand so I didn't have to keep getting up! But generally in that half hour, I may wash 4 shirts of my husband's, 3 of mine, 3 or 4 of my daughters, a pair of pajamas for each of us, several pairs of my husband's BB shorts, 2 or 3 of my daughter's school uniforms, and maybe even a pair of jeans. I don't find that it works my arm out as bad as some reviews mention, and the product itself is holding up very well... I do recommend putting the washer inside your tub, as you will get water everywhere when you fill it and empty it. I also find that the tube for draining does not work as well as simply dumping the water out yourself!\n\nAfter trial and error, I found this is the process to use for me:\n\n1)  Set washer inside tub. I put latex gloves on at this point, because I have sensitive skin.\n2)  You pour in an EXTREMELY small amount of detergent. A tablespoon or less! And I use fabric softener, which I add about the same amount at this time. For whites, this is the time to add your  bleach. (But be careful between loads! You don't want any bleach residue left behind!)\n3)  Dump a bucket of water in, temperature depending on the fabric of course. I generally fill it to the half way point. (NOTE: if you dump the water in AFTER the soap, it is easier to rinse later!)\n4)  Add your clothes, one piece at a time, making sure not to scrunch them up. (For me, this may be 2-3 adult shirts, 3-4 kid shirts, and a pair of pants or shorts.)\n5)  Screw the top on tightly.\n6)  Start spinning! I count to 60, 2 or 3 times depending on what I'm washing.\n7)  Take the top off, and remove the clothes. I set them aside, giving them a quick squeeze to help get the soap out.\n8)  Refill the washer with clean water, no soap this time.\n9)  Put the clothes back in, close the top, and spin again for 2-3 minutes.\n10)  You should be done. Occasionally, I get a pair of sweats or jeans that holds in soap, and I give it another quick rinse under the tub faucet.\n\nMy issue comes in here, where I, of course, don't have a dryer. It takes me maybe 5 or 6 minutes to wash and rinse the clothes, but it takes me another half hour to ring all the water out, and THAT is where it starts to hurt. Right now, I have been ringing them out as best I can, then hanging the clothes over the heating vents or outside on sunny days to dry, but it takes a long time. Soon I plan to buy the spin dryer, and I'm sure that will help alot.\n\nI also want to note that the product has to be assembled, and mine came with virtually no instructions. However, it is pretty common sense, and I got it together in about 10 minutes. The only thing I could not figure out was the metal 'keys' that came with it. Those are for either side, to place in the little holes and keep the unit from falling apart!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4669, "id": 103101, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 539, "len_tokens": 881, "text": "I purchased this beverage center to store my ever-growing beer collection in, and it is perfect for that purpose! I've addressed a few different items below to hopefully help prospective buyers (many of these have been mentioned in other reviews as well) -\n\nTEMPERATURE -\n\nThe beverage center comes with an adjustable temperature knob. I would recommend following the instructions of initially running the unit at max cool temp for 3-4 hours and then turning it back to the 10 o'clock position on the dial. If you leave it there, it should keep the temperature in the mid to upper 40's while not requiring the fan/compressor to run constantly. Ambient temperature may affect this, but I have mine stored in a pretty warm  room. This temperature falls within the desired range for most styles of beer. If all of your beer is fizzy and yellow and you prefer to drink it ice cold, then you need to take a step back and rethink your life choices.\n\nBy the way - this unit does NOT come with any sort of temperature gauge. You should purchase a refrigerator/freezer gauge to accurately monitor it. I went with this model -&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Taylor-Precision-Products-Digital-Refrigerator-Freezer-Thermometer/dp/B00875TVYQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Taylor Precision Products Digital Refrigerator/Freezer Thermometer</a>\n\nNOISE -\n\nI have this beverage center sitting next to my couch in my loft / MAN CAVE. I can watch TV quietly at night and the sound from the compressor is NOT excessively loud or annoying. Also keep in mind, as I mentioned above - if you don't run the unit at max cool temperature then that will reduce the amount of time that the fan/compressor are running.\n\nINTERIOR LIGHT -\n\nMany people have complained about the warm white or YELLOW \"old\" looking interior light. I agree that it looks bad. Some have replaced it with strings of cool white LED lights. I recommend just replacing the bulb with a cool white LED bulb - one with an E12 size base will fit. I went with this model and it looks great -&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Rayhoo-2pcs-E12-Base-LED-Bulb-104-SMD-LEDs-White-Light-5-Watt-AC-110V-Lamps-Equivalent-to-40W-T3-Halogen-Track-Bulb-Replacement-LED-Bulbs-6000-6500K-300-320LM/dp/B015O6UT6E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Rayhoo 2pcs E12 Base LED Bulb 104-SMD LEDs White Light 5 Watt AC 110V Lamps Equivalent to 40W T3 Halogen Track Bulb Replacement LED Bulbs,6000-6500K, 300-320LM</a>\n\nCARPET -\n\nThe door will most likely drag if you put the unit directly on carpet. You should use a piece of tile, wood, or small table to get it up off the ground. Something that is at least 15.5\" by 15.5\" will cover all of the legs. I used an extra piece of kitchen tile that I had and it works perfectly.\n\nSHELVES -\n\nYou will need to adjust the shelves to fit your needs. In my case, I removed 2 of them and kept 2 in there. I use the bottom (not a shelf) to store bombers and extra-tall bottles, the middle shelf to store regular bottles, and the top shelf to store cans and short bottles. I haven not had a problem with bottles tipping or not sitting properly on the wire shelves, but if you do, you can purchase some mats like these, cut them to fit, and place on top of the shelves where needed -&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Flexible-Chopping-Mats-4-Pack/dp/B00METEK0Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Flexible Chopping Mats 4 Pack</a>", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4670, "id": 105136, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 724, "len_tokens": 839, "text": "I live in an apartment and got tired of the washing machines here, being so rough on my clothes and delicates, not to mention the expense and running back and forth to the laundry room. I thought buying this Haier washer might be a solution, because most of my clothing, I prefer to hang dry anyway, rather than put them in the scorching hot dryers in my facility.\nI carefully unpacked it  found that the bottom of the box is separate  so you can lift the box off of the washer without tipping it over and pulling it out.\nAssembly was easy, however there was a problem with the base plate  it came with no screws to attach it to the bottom of the washer. Even had there been the 6 screws that they state are needed, I couldn't have used them as there were no holes on the bottom of the washer to screw them into. So, my washer has no base plate attached. It doesnt impair the operation of it  probably its purpose is to keep dust out of the workings of the machine. This means I will need to periodically check under it and keep it vacuumed.\nIt wouldnt work on the faucet that I have in my bathroom, so I took it into the kitchen to try it there. That was easy enough, but just be sure to follow the instructions about either leaving in or removing the little black rubber washer in the hook-up valve. Well, no matter how much I tried, it leaked and sprayed water all over my cabinets and counters. But no problem! I just draped a kitchen towel over it to catch the spray and I was in business. I stuck the drain hose down into the garbage disposal drain. It stays put when the water drains out, so no need to attach it to the water hose for stability.\nSo, after hooking it up to my kitchen faucet, I ran an empty cycle with detergent to clean the drum, as suggested. All went well. Time for clothes!\nI set the water level to high and ran a normal wash cycle. Logically, you need to not pack the drum tightly with clothes. I placed my items loosely in washer and started it up.  The whole cycle, start to finish, ran 35 minutes. The spin does an amazingly good job and leaves the clothes ready to hang dry anywhere with no concern of dripping. The wash cycle is about 15 minutes but the rinse is short  about 2 minutes. The rest of the time is for spinning, filling, and draining. I would prefer the rinse be a little longer, but with my using liquid detergent, I haven't noticed any soap residue left on the clothes, so maybe it is okay.\nIm very impressed with how clean it got my white things. My white, cotton shirt was sparkling white and it had had some make-up stains on it around the collar. Fantastic! The clothes get pretty twisted, so I have found that I like to untwist them after the wash and rinse cycle before they spin.\nFinally, a couple more things it has a pretty quiet operation  quieter than my dishwasher. I also, saved the Styrofoam insert that came with it in the drum, to keep it stable for when I move it back and forth from a closet to the kitchen. It is on rollers, so moving it isn't a problem.\n\nAfter Ive used it a few months, I will report back and let you know how it is holding up. As of this writing now, I have washed about 10 loads of laundry. I've found that it cannot be left unattended, so that the water can be turned on and then off when not filling. The water pressure may be too great to keep the water on when it isn't filling. (When the water was left on when not filling, the water valve shot off the faucet and stripped one of the threads on the screw part right off. I should get a new valve, but it works okay temporarily.) Also, it got off balance during the spin cycle once, and I was there to catch it immediately. I imagine it would be very hard on the machine if that happened and it wasn't stopped.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4671, "id": 108082, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 712, "len_tokens": 887, "text": "I got this for a Nostalgia Electric single tap kegerator. It replaced a 2.5\" tower after a little bit of work to the top of the kegerator with a drill and some rivet nuts. The quality of the hardware components is all pretty good, and I'll be sure to test it out real well during the Super Bowl. I do have a few complaints with the kit, two of which were fairly easy to fix. The Y fitting on the regulator and the two shut off valves in it were fairly loose. An adjustable wrench fixed it up. The one valve was so loose that I was actually able to tighten it some by hand. The other issue is with the insulation in the tower, or lack there-of. It came with a piece of thin foam that looks more like it was packing foam wrap as it was an 1/8\" thick at best. I removed it and replaced it with a piece of pipe insulation with an OD of ~2 5/8\" that fit perfectly. The last complaint is that the beer lines are only 4-5' long, and the airlines are basically the same length. I didn't try to lengthen them yet, but will likely get some barbed couplings, clamps, and some more tubing later, but I will see how much the beer foams first.\n\n2/12/2014 UPDATE: Used the system for the Super Bowl and had a few issues. The one side was not getting CO2, not sure if it was a regulator problem or something else. Found it a few days later when the line side pressure was 2 psi. Checked the connections and looked for problems, turned the pressure up and problem solved. A week later, my CO2 bottle is empty after maybe a full sixtel (likely less) of beer from the two kegs. Got my 2.5lb bottle filled and checked for leaks only to find everything at the \"Y\" fitting leaking. Both valves in going into the \"Y\" and the \"Y\" going into the regulator. I guess when I tightened them initially, it wasn't tight enough. The one valve I couldn't get to stop leaking, so I removed it and then all the teflon tape, then had to put more on, probably close to 10-15 wraps before it actually stopped making bubbles with soapy water. Checked other areas and didn't find anymore leaks, but time will tell if I actually got them all. Hopefully they're all fixed now as I'd like to not loose all my CO2 before the beer is gone. I'd rather give it 2.5 stars if possible after the latest issue, but I can't give/take a half star.\n\n2/27/2014 UPDATE: Another update, and the rating on this kit has dropped to 1 star. The regulator that came with the unit is bad. On top of all the leaks from it, it just doesn't work. I could not get it to maintain a constant serving pressure. It would either get set at 8-10 psi, then a few hours later be at 30+ psi, or you couldn't get the pressure to go up at all. Sadly, it usually increased steadily, and there is now a mess in my kegerator as it forced beer out of the lines at the faucet when it was over pressurized, and the beer leaked down into and onto everything inside the kegerator. I contacted the seller, and the response was \"we frequently have regulator issues, here are instructions to fix it yourself\". Sadly, it took several tries for them to actually send the instructions. I don't see how you sell a product when you frequently have problems with the most critical piece in the product. Needless to say, after I finally got the instructions and took apart the regulator, there was nothing inside it causing a problem, so I put it back together, and would you imagine that it is still bad? Now I need to try and get a refund. Luckily, the regulator that came with the kegerator is fine, so I just swapped the Y fitting over onto it. If I could buy again, I'd go spend another $20-30 somewhere else and get a different kit from another vendor, as this one is not living up to any standard other than poor.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4672, "id": 113288, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 690, "len_tokens": 832, "text": "I had an old top of the line KitchenAid dishwasher that was 18 years old.  It worked great execept the top dish rack rusted out and I could not find the part to replace it.  My old KitchenAid was made in the good old USA and when I called KitchenAid to find the replacement part they told me 1) the part is no longer being manufactured and 2) hold on to this unit as long as I could because I will not be able to find the build quality like my old unit.  So I held on for another 2 years till the rack fell apart.\n\nWhen the rack finally gave way - I had to replace my old KitchenAid.  After weeks of research I decided to purchase the KitchenAid KUDS30ix based on my fist KitchenAid experience on build quality. I was sold on the KUDS30ix front panel display, the fact it had a built-in food disposal, and a number of other features like my old KitchenAid.  Since I upgraded my old oven and went stainless steel - I also went for that option as well- stainless steel.  Out of the box the unit looked very nice, however I could tell by the weight and components of my new KitchenAid it was not built as well as my old unit.  After installation and the first run of the unit the water would not drain - the only way to get the dishwasher to drain was to hit cancel/drain.  That did the trick for a week and now the unit will not even drain.  Also, 2 blue lights are stuck on - \"Hi-Temp Scrub\" and \"3-Ho ur Delay\".\n\nWhen the unit did clean my dishes it did not clean well.  It left a white residue from the dish-washing liquid.  I used a top name dish-washing detergent brand/pre-rinse and rinse-aid as suggested.  This was the same dishwashing detergent I have been using for years in my old KitchenAid and I never had a problem.. So the white residue I feel is not due to hard-water or dish washing products.\n\nOne of the great reasons to buy from Sears is customer service - I have to rate them at the top of list.  I called Sears about my problem and the next day the Sears repair man came out as scheduled and after about 15 mins he informed me that the unit had so many problems he suggested I should ask for a replacement unit.  However, he could not write that down on the work order because he is told to replace and order new parts and fix if if at all possible - per  Sears standards & procedures.  However because of the soppy water sitting in the bottom of the unit it had stained the stainless steel and most likely would not come out. My old KitchenAid of over 18 years looked better inside then this new unit.  The Sears repairman felt I had a good reason to ask for a replacement (Ya think).  He also did tell me that I had 90 days to return the unit and ask for a full refund if it was not working up to par.\n\nI called back Sears customer service and they asked me to go back to the store where I purchased the unit \"Great Indoors\" (a division of Sears) and speak to a manager which I did to work out a resolution getting a new replacement unit. I was informed by the store manager that I would get a call from the installation/repair/delivery manager the following day.  The next day, I received a call from the manager and at first she wanted to repair the machine I said \"no way\" I wanted a new unit.  In the end she agreed to replace the unit, however I would have to pay for a re-installation because I did not use a Sears installer.  At this point I was so upset I just asked for my money back (under the 90 day return policy) and I asked them to pick up the unit.  She agreed and I'm still waiting for a pick up date.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4673, "id": 125862, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 682, "len_tokens": 822, "text": "I bought both the Infinity Pro Hot Air Spinner 2\" and the John Frieda Salon Shape 1.5 Inch Hot Air Brush ( JF for short). Both are great products. The Infinity by Conair is rated #1 and JF is rated #2. I had a hard time trying to decide which to buy. Then bought both.\nI wanted to share the differences between the two in case it helps someone else choose one or both. I love both products. The biggest difference is that the Infinity spins and the JF does not. The other noticeable difference is that the Infinity spin brush has very soft bristles. My hair is a medium- longish bob. The bristles are soft and won't just \"grab\" my hair unless I use the spinning option. It works great and it gives you the blow out look. The JF may not spin but the bristles are soft and they have some sturdier bristles mixed in which does grab hair very easily. It also will give you the blow out look. If you have shorter hair, the 2' Infinity Pro Spin won't really be small enough with the overall shape or size. I would opt for a smaller barrel. I believe the Infinity does come smaller. The JF 1.5\" grabs shorter hair easily ( it has some harder bristles). It was used on my mom's hair because her hair is shorter. The Infinity worked too spinning, but a smaller barrel size would've worked better on her hair. The JF worked great. As I said, both are great products and I'm glad to have both. Mine is the Infinity and the JF is my mom's. So I have been able to use both and see the differences, pros and cons.\nBoth have 3 settings, high,low and cool. Both style very well. I have never been able to perfect the art of using a brush in one hand and a hair dryer in the other to dry my hair. I use the Conair styling hair dryer that has a brush attachment to \"dry my hair\".\nAnother thing is that both the Infinity and the JF work best when your hair is about 75-80% dry. Then you can fix any frizziness or curl with either product. ( Both my mom and I have curly hair).\nI know this review is being written on the Infinity page, I did the same on the John Frieda review. I love how the Infinity spins nicely, and it spins in either direction which is great! It does not tangle and shapes my hair very easily. I can understand why it's rated #1. I love it and have had no problems. It's a learning curve, but an easy one. I used to have the Instyler, and I had a hard time with that one. Mainly because the tip got too hot. The tips or the ends on the Infinity and JF both warm up and can get quite warm. Thermal gloves work fine if you need something, but you can buy cheap gloves at Walgreens and they work just as well. I haven't found a need for either.\nThe only thing I wish the Infinity had was a few harder bristles mixed in with the very soft bristles. They would help in grabbing hair if not using the spin option. I wouldn't take off any points for that. As I said, both products are great! They both shape and smooth while styling! Both work great at the roots providing extra lift!\nI hope this review helps someone make a decision if needed. Both come in different sizes which is good. Both work very well which is great!\nI love the Infinity product and highly recommend it! Hope this helps someone!! I know I had a hard time deciding, and I'm glad I bought both. I do use my Infinity all the time. I do not use my mom's JF as often but she does use it and she loves it too! . Sorry I used the word \"both\" so many times!  :)\nThanks! I hope this helps someone!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4674, "id": 126730, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 641, "len_tokens": 840, "text": "I have been saving for a personal 5L beer keg dispenser after seeing all my 'cool-friends' with the Heineken Beer-tender, but the reviews on their life-span turned out to be true (they quit if you keep a close to empty in the unit for more than a day or two) and I wanted something that operated differently.\n\nI love this machine for the most part, and am working on making adjustments to the parts that are a miss for me.  I love that it holds 2 x 5 Liter kegs and the accessories that come with the machine will allow you to use virtually ANY 5L keg style out there: Co2 pre-charged kegs like Heineken and Newcastle as well and any un-charged keg.  The fact that this is an actual fridge protects the item from conking out because of a no-load melt-down like the other dispensers I have experience with.\n\nNow the misses on this unit; this is a fridge and it boasts a glass shelf to chill your beer glasses.  This is included and a really cool idea, however the shelf is way to close to the top of the chiller for anything taller than a shot-glass and so is pretty much useless for any practical use.  Maybe someday I'll find some glasses that fit in there but right now I just can't make it work.\n\nNext miss, and this is the biggest one; the pour spout looks very large and so you would think the flow of the brew would be almost as fast as a bar tap. Unfortunately this was very far from reality.  The handle uses a 3/16\" ID vinyl tube identical to the kind used in an aquarium aerator pump.  The pour is excruciatingly slow!  The tap handle works by pinching the tubing within the plastic spout but there is room for a slightly bigger tube.  Today I went to a local hardware store and picked up a 1/4\" ID vinyl tube and installed it,(after sterilizing) this helped quite a bit but is still way too slow for my taste. The speed is slower than the included tap on a Heineken 5L for reference.  I will continue to work on this and it is usable, just a sticking point for me but NOT a reason avoid this machine.\n\nThe LED light is a cool idea, but that is about as much effort as they put into it.  The light can be seen if you look through the window, but doesn't light up the fridge interior unless all the external lights are off in the room.  In fact I forget it's on some times and leave the room because I can't tell that it's doing anything by just glancing at it.  LED's run cool and it's a great idea, just no follow though on this.\n\nThe temperature adjustment is very cool(no pun intended) and even though the fridge settings bottom out at 38 degrees, the fridge is normally sitting at 36 degrees making very tasty beer.\n\nThe door is not reversible as described in the product features, the latch is molded on the door and cannot be opened from the right side.\n\nCo2 control seats well and is easy to setup and adjust.\n\nOverall I am really pleased with this product and do recommend this to others as a more reliable alternative to the Beer-tender, but I recommend it most for those who are home-brewers and aren't afraid to 'tinker' with the tap handle to get a better flow.  I am most excited about the home-brewing aspect of this products versatility, as I myself have just started a batch of Oktoberfest home-brew and just ordered a Keg&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/5-Liter-Party-Keg-with-Tap-for-Homebrew/dp/B001RUW64K/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">5 Liter Party Keg with Tap for Homebrew</a>&nbsp;and am beyond excited to have my brew on tap for my friends instead of passing out bottles.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4675, "id": 127177, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 817, "text": "This review is for the \"Refrigerator Condensor Fan Motor for Sub Zero 4200740\" sold by \"partshouse\".  (That's the way they spelled \"Condenser\".)\n\nOur Sub-Zero is a model 690.  This fan motor works great for it.\n\nIt appears that Sub-Zero uses the same condenser fan motor for many different models, hence the proliferation of parts that come with this replacement motor.  My motor kit included all the pictured items.  It did not include a new fan blade.\n\nInstallation was almost a snap.  It was a very quick process to select the correct connector and insert the wires.  Then the only issue was to remove the old fan motor bracket with the fan motor and fan attached, swap the motor, and reinstall.  It sounds simple enough, but that doesn't mean that it's easy.  (Simple and easy are different.  e.g.  \"Buy low and sell high\" is simple but not easy.)\n\nGetting the rearmost screw removed from the fan mounting bracket was probably the most difficult task, but if you are handy and have a good assortment of tools you should be able to do it.  It should go without saying that you should have the refrigerator turned off while you are working in the mechanical compartment.  I unplugged mine as well.\n\nWhen all was said and done, I am VERY happy with this replacement motor kit.  I really can't say whether the fan is louder with the new motor or not, mostly because I don't think my original one was working all the time.  Do you suppose those reviewers who complain about the noise are upset because their old fan was off and now they have one that is turning?\n\nWe had two symptoms indicating that this fan motor might have been failing, but I didn't recognize that these symptoms indicated the fan.  The first was that the center wall between the refrigerator section and the freezer section on our side-by-side was hot.  Allison Cummins' review from 18 February 2013 mentions that this is an indication that the condenser fan is failing.\n\nThe other symptom was that we were getting \"Vacuum Condenser\" messages way too often, sometimes within days of vacuuming the condenser.  If I had thought about that for a while, I would have realized that if the refrigerant doesn't cool sufficiently as it passes through the condenser, the system assumes that the condenser is dirty and turns on the \"Vacuum condenser\" message.  This same condition can occur if the condenser fan has failed or is intermittent, even with a clean condenser.\n\nSo, if you see a \"Vacuum Condenser\" message more than you should, and/or if the center wall between the refrigerator and freezer is hot, you should be checking for a failed condenser fan.\n\nA hint: While we waited for this motor to arrive our refrigerator was getting quite warm.  I bought a small $12 \"personal fan\" at the local hardware store and set it up to blow onto the condenser.  I also left the front cover off the mechanical compartment.  This kept the refrigerator working and we didn't lose any food except for the ice cream, which had already gotten too soft.  In fact, after I installed the little \"personal fan\" the fridge worked better than it had in months.\n\nOne last tip: I took a precaution to ensure that this fan motor never fails again.  I bought another one as a spare.  I'll store it right inside the mechanical compartment above the refrigerator.  The currently installed motor should work forever as long as the fridge knows there's a replacement ready.\n\nThis is a great replacement part for a very reasonable price.  I'm sure that had I bought one from an authorized Sub-Zero parts distributor it would have cost three or four times what I paid for this one.  Don't even ask what it would cost to have a service technician come out and change it.\n\nHIGHLY RECOMMENDED!\n\n- Loren", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4676, "id": 140196, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 731, "len_tokens": 834, "text": "Found this part leaking on refrigerator, refrigerator model number is ED25LFXHT02, I don't think this model number is listed in the description of the models this part fits but it is the right part. The Sears parts web site uses actual manufacturers part numbers so you can double check parts numbers there, most appliance parts web sites use pseudo numbers. I had no idea Amazon would handle a part like this but found it by accident and I am glad I did. This was by far the best price I found for this part. The part appears to have a better locking piece for the water tubes than the original part (the plastic lip is wider, easier to move with your thumbnail).\n\nReviewed the online videos on tips to replace this part. It came in a Whirlpool bag, genuine Whirlpool part, nothing loose in the bag.\n\nI had spent an hour or two on the floor finding the leak and removing the old part, Amazon free shipping took about 6 days so no water on the door or ice during that time.\n\nI checked with a local appliance repair place, they wanted $ 70 for the part and they would have had to order it also. They said the only option was to replace the whole housing, they also said this was a fairly common problem. I asked if they thought silicon sealant would work and they said probably for a few days, not long term.  I started to let them fix it but I think it would have run over $ 200 once I added a new water filter, trip charge, and labor. The refrigerator is 13 years old so after looking at the reviews on this part and the videos I decided to try it myself and I am glad I did.\n\nRepair time after I got the part was about 20 minutes for this part. The water tubes are not long so I had to slide the housing part way in and work my hand in to connect the tubes, not easy but doable. There were no leaks on this part the on first attempt.\n\nMy refrigerator had a connector in front of this housing that connected two different size water tubes together to feed the water in the door feature, I had to take this loose to replace the housing. When I put it back together the connector leaked. The diagrams I used to get the filter housing part number did not show a part number for the coupler, but they are available on Amazon for about $ 4. The coupler used O-rings just like the filter housing and they were the same age so it is understandable they might fail also, especially after I took it apart and reconnected it.\n\nI wanted to finish this repair so I took the connector apart and used a jewelers screwdriver to remove the O-rings and went to a local (good) hardware store and got new O-rings as close as I could match to the ones in the coupler. My hardware store also had an assortment of similar couplers, just not the reducing coupler I needed, if they had I would have just bought the coupler. I went home and put the coupler back together and put it in place and was thrilled that it did not leak.\n\nThe next day I pulled the grille off the refrigerator and rechecked, there were no leaks, I think this repair was successful.\n\nMy Suggestions:\n\nDo not be afraid to try this repair on your own.\n\nYou might be able to take the old housing apart and find new O-rings to fit it and keep from buying the part. I did not do this but after having success with the coupler it might be worth trying that first. I hope I don't have to replace this part again during the life of this refrigerator but if I do I will try new O-rings first (now that I know how this thing works, it is just water tubes thrust into tight O-rings, the plastic part you push in to release just grips the tubes to hold them firm),\n\nIf you order this part and have a water line coupler you must disconnect to replace it consider ordering a new coupler for a few dollars to save yourself the problem I had.\n\nHappy DIY'ing", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4677, "id": 148538, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 689, "len_tokens": 852, "text": "After several months of studying this \"pureWash\" and after my wife firmly commented that we were not going to even think about buying one,,,,, I bought one.  When I unpacked the box and she could see what it was,,,, you know what hit the fan.  Man did I get the silent treatment.\n\nAfter I checked the water pressure and temperature, 60 psig at 58 degrees F, I mounted the unit on the wall, hooked up all the water lines, turned on the power and did a flush on our LG 4.0 front load washer.  In just a few minutes I could begin smelling the ozone's.  Our laundry room is only 9' x 8' so the smell got strong quickly.  Luckily we have an exhaust fan and a window in our laundry room so I was able to remove the smell quickly.  I have even noticed a fresher smell through the house which is nice.  My granddaughter said \"it smells like the Ocean.\"\n\nAnyway, my wife has this blouse that has a stain on the front. She was planning to take it to the cleaner to see if the stain would come out.  I took this blouse and threw it into the washer with towel, t-shirts, p-jays, and whatever else was in the laundry basket.  I did treat the blouse with a Spot Removal product.  When the wash cycle was finished I removed this blouse and the stain was GONE.  My wife looked for the stain, none there, smelled her blouse and smiled but still not speaking to me.  Then I took a white t-shirt that was washed a few days ago in hot water with bleach and compared it with one that was washed with her blouse and said can you tell which one was wash in bleach and hot water Vs the \"pureWash\".  She picked the \"pureWash\" t-shirt as being the one washed in bleach and hot water.\n\nPros; Cleaner clothes, better smelling clothes.  No detergents, bleach or softener.  Occasional spot removal.  Drying time has been cut in half.  Better for the Septic System.\nCons; Made in China.  My wife is speaking to me again.\n\nSo if you have the correct water pressure, 40 - 75 psig and water temperature less than 70 degrees F., stop thinking about buying one and just buy it.  I hate to think about how much money I wasted this last winter on my gas bill while I was deciding to purchase this unit.\n\nUpdate;  I have noticed that after several washing the smell has gone way down.  I hardly notice the Ozone smell anymore.  Must be due to cleaning out the washer.\n\nAfter using this for more then two months it makes me wonder why the environmentalist and all of the Greenies are not pushing a product like this. Makes me wonder if they do worry about our streams, lakes and drinking water or do they only care about their donations. Shame on them!!!!  Lets be sure to buy their Mercury filled light bulbs.  I am sure that is going to be great for our environment.\n\nA CONCERN; 2/10/14  I called pureWash about why the Ozone smell is gone.  When we do our laundry the cleaning is still great but the Ozone smell has disappeared.  The light in the window is still blue, have strong bubbles but no smell or Red light.  Well the engineer was helpful in telling me what to look for but went on to tell me that they would not cover my unit due to buying it on ebay.  When I bought this unit I filled the warranty card with the Dealers name and the date I bought it.  The next day I received this reply, \"The warranty for your pureWash is now registered. We hope you enjoy the effectiveness, cost savings and countless other benefits of using pureWash Eco-Friendly Laundry System to clean your clothes and linens!\"\nIf I new this unit was not going to be covered I would have sent this unit back within my time frame to return.  So before you buy, give these guys a call to be sure of the warranty.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4678, "id": 151928, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 673, "len_tokens": 871, "text": "Amazon says 5 stars means \"Love it\".  It's very hard to love a washing machine part.  This one isn't lovable, but it is an exact replacement, arrived in a sealed, legitimate Whirlpool carton, fits exactly, and is the same quality as the one that came off.  And, delivery was prompt.\n\nMost folks have to change these because of a tear or chunk that comes off near the bottom.  The is happens because of the abuse that occurs when loading and unloading.  It's tempting to shove clothes in and yank them out.... we're all in a rush these days.... but that's the main cause of a damaged seal.  Be gentle while loading and unloading, and your boot will probably not be nearly as likely to tear.\n\nBe forewarned that if your machine uses a teardrop looking trim ring, it's one of the parts that has to come off, and it's held in place by two curved grey plastic strips on either side of the door.  The trim ring is snapped in place, and it's very likely you'll break a few of the snaps.  Each of these rings is $30, and they're not available on Amazon.  In my case, a couple of them broke, but the teardrop trim seems to be pretty secure so I'm leaving it alone for now.\n\nMy machine is a WFW9750WW01 duet.  Most Duets are similar but there are some small differences.  Start by unplugging the machine.  The repair sequence is (a) remove lower front panel -3 screws, (b) remove top  cabinet panel, 3 screws located on the back of the washer  (c) remove trim ring (this is where the snaps break), (d) depress the blue tab and slide out the detergent dispenser, (e) remove two screws on either side of the detergent dispenser, (f) Unsnap the control panel and carefully fold it up over the top of the machine, no need to disconnect wires but ENSURE MACHINE IS UNPLUGGED--  if a wire shorts to the cabinet that would be a VERY expensive mistake, (g) open the front door and remove two screws that secure the door lock to the panel, (h) use needle nose pliers or a small flathead screwdriver to remove the spring clamp that secures the bellows to the front panel, being careful not to damage it, then detach the old bellows from the front panel, (i)  remove front panel, leaving door attached - 4 screws, (j)  loosen the worm drive screw clamp until you can get it out - don't damage this either, it needs to be re-used, (k) remove the translucent white detergent dispensing tube from the old bellows, again being careful not to break it since it's plastic, (l) look at the old bellow to be sure you are clear on how it fits, then remove the old bellow and discard, (m) clean up everything, especially the surfaces where the new bellows gets clamped into place.  Take some time and clean it well.  Any crud under there can cause a leak.  Now, reverse the steps to get the new one installed. Be sure to check that the new bellows is seating properly under both the screw clamp and the spring-loaded wire clamp.  That wire clamp comes off easy but can be a challenge to get on...extra hands are useful, and you will need to use a set of pliers or a visegrip to let you stretch the spring.  Be patient, be careful not to damage the new bellows with your tools, and don't overstretch the spring - stretch it just enough.  There are a lot of steps, so it will take a while to do this.  As mentioned earlier, the snap on plastic stuff is always problematic because after a few years the plastic gets brittle, so be careful.  If I had to do it again I would have those grey plastic curved snap strips on hand, but as mentioned mine seems be holding ok with a few of the tabs broken.  Good luck!  It's a very nice washing machine...definitely worth keeping in top shape.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4679, "id": 166433, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 563, "len_tokens": 801, "text": "Before I get into the details of my setup, I want to say I am very happy I bought this controller.  It's not hard to install or use and it works really well - but more importantly, I had contacted tech support at Control Products and they quickly helped me.  It was clear that they genuinely cared about resolving my issue.  They were professional, knowledgeable, friendly - just awesome.  It's not often you get that kind of experience when you call customer support and I can't say enough good things about them.  As it turned out, there was nothing wrong with the controller.  I had it plugged into a switched outlet that turned off when the room lights were shut off. Ugh, I know.\n\nI bought this to control the temperature of my fermenting mead and beer.  I placed a small ceramic heater inside an upright freezer and the controller keeps the temperature inside the freezer wherever you set it (within a set window.)  Here's my setup:\n\nModel: TC-9102D-HV\nSP1: Cool @ 71\nSP2: Heat @ 67\nDif 1 & 2: 2\nAll other settings are default\n\nThis creates an effective range of 65 to 73.  This may seem like a large variance, but it works well for me for a few reasons.  The ceramic heater still radiates some heat after it shuts off.  That causes the temperature in the freezer to raise another degree or two which would cause the freezer to turn on if the cool setting was set at a lower temp.  The 2 minute differential setting prevents any short cycle issues.  Finally, the average temperature works out to be 69 (my target temperature) and since the air temp changes much more rapidly than the liquid in the fermenters, the yeast do not really \"see\" the change at all.\n\nFor installation I used a drill and bit\na #2 phillips screwdriver\n4 small sheet metal screws (not sure of size)\nsome wire to make jumpers\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/a-3-8-cable-clamp-connector/dp/B000VYIXIQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">a 3/8\" cable clamp connector</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/and-some-yellow-and-orange-wire-nuts/dp/B000K7M35I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">and some yellow and orange wire nuts</a>\n\nI got my stuff at HD\n\nI mounted the controller on the side of the freezer using some sheet metal screws.  In the back of the controller there is a hole for wires to pass through into the freezer.  I drilled a hole in that spot -into the freezer- large enough for the temperature sensor wire and heater power cable to fit through.\n\nI cut the ends off the freezer and heater power cords and fed them into the controller.  I used an Ohmmeter to make note of where the hot and neutral wires were when I cut them.  Using the cable clamp, I passed the freezer cord through a hole in the bottom of the controller.  This is also where the power cord for the whole setup goes.  I used a spare computer power supply cord and cut the female end off that.  Then I just followed the wiring diagram found on Control Products website, using bits of solid copper wire for jumpers and wire nuts as needed.  Others on here have said to reverse the hot and neutral wires.\n\nWhew!  That's it.  Not too hard or expensive and works great!  I've got 3 batches of mead fermenting in the freezer and I've ordered another controller to do a second set-up.  Home-brewing is fun!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4680, "id": 166730, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 650, "len_tokens": 804, "text": "I recently spent many, many hours over several weeks looking for a new dishwasher to replace our 50+-year-old Kitchenaid. After research online and visits to stores, I would settle on one model only to change my mind after reading more user reviews online. I chose and unchose 3 or 4 dishwashers this way. Of course, even good products have a small percent of negative user reviews online, and this wasn't why I decided against the various dishwashers. At the beginning of my search, I was focused on the question of which features I wanted (`integrated' controls or front facing, hard food disposer, etc.), but eventually I realized that, given today's generally shoddy production standards, the key issue for me was: how well built is the machine, how long will it last, how many repairs will it need? From everything I read, it became clear that many dishwashers on the market that have wonderful features, that are wonderfully quiet and energy efficient, and that perform well on tests by Consumer Reports, are in fact made with cheap parts that do not last (often sourced from around the world for the lowest possible cost). The dishwasher can seem great at first, but after a few years the parts wear out, the dishwasher is not as quiet as it used to be, and it starts to require costly repairs. KitchenAid dishwashers, for example, used to be well made--several decades ago--but no longer. The same seems to be true of Bosch.\n\nI did not want to spend $1000 on a dishwasher only to have it start breaking down in a few years. At this point in my search I took another look at Miele. I had originally dismissed Miele as too expensive, but I discovered that this company had recently released a new low-end model ($999 for stainless steel), the Futura Classic G4205SS, to compete with other dishwashers at this level. The salesman at our store said that Miele tested the G4205 extensively for 3 or 4 years before releasing it to the public to ensure that it would not have any problems. He also said that Miele makes all of its own parts; it does not use parts made by third-party manufacturers. Similarly, for installation, they insist on Miele installers.\n\nThe stainless steel on the G4205 has a glass coating to reduce fingerprints. The controls are on the front rather than `integrated.' This is what I prefer so that I can turn the machine on and see the status of the cycle without having to open the door. All other brands with front controls that I considered (<$1000) had a plastic panel for the controls (sometimes the panel is a silvery color to match the stainless steel below, but it is still plastic). In contrast, the G4205 control panel is stainless steel. Also, this dishwasher doesn't have the ubiquitous Hummer-style handle, which I never liked and which will probably start to look old-fashioned soon, once manufacturers begin the next cycle of making current styles look out of date.\n\nI've used this dishwasher for a couple of months now. It is really quiet, the dishes come out super clean, the controls are very simple and easy to use, it has a beautiful, minimalist look, and it's very energy and water efficient. Best of all, I expect that it will last. The only tiny quibble I have is that it is smaller inside than my old KitchenAid; I've learned to load dishes in a very compact way but still can't fit as much into this machine. Some potential buyers might care (I don't) that after a wash the floor of the dishwasher has a bit of water on it (probably an energy saving feature). However, if you open the door a crack the water evaporates before too long.\n\nIn sum, a near-perfect dishwasher (for me) in a field filled with low-quality competitors.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4681, "id": 174020, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 674, "len_tokens": 857, "text": "I fixed my own freezer!\nWish I had known this info before I did it, as I would have saved about fifty bucks.\n\nIf you have a freezer that *isn't freezing*, it is often because it isn't defrosting. (The frost buildup blocks the airflow past the cooling fins.)\n\n#1  The Defrost Timer ( Frigidaire 297318010 Defrost Timer) is VERY likely to give out eventually. It is just a mechanical timer, so it has a small motor that can go bad or its metal contacts can get fouled by the normal arcing that happens as it switches from refrigerate to defrost mode and back. This is super easy to get to and replace from the back of the refrigerator/freezer. It's about ten to fifteen bucks, so it's a cheap easy fix. (To diagnose, look for the little dial that you can turn. If you turn it, it will click and the freezer should turn off, then turn it just a little more and it should turn back on. If that happens, the contacts are fine. (If it doesn't turn the freezer off and on, then the contacts are fouled - so replace the timer.) If the contacts are fine, next mark a line on the dial and move it to the 12 o'clock position. Wait a few hours and come back and check it. If it is still in the 12 o'clock position, then the motor on the timer is dead, and you need to replace it. If however the timer has turned to, say, 2 o'clock, then the timer is still good and it is very likely that there is a different cause for the freezer to have stopped.\n\n#2  This Thermostat ( Frigidaire 297318010 Defrost Timer ) is located inside the freezer, behind the bottom back panel, near the heat exhanger that looks like a radiator. (On mine, it was at the upper left corner of the heat exchanger.) The thermostat is fairly easy to get to, and you can replace it for about ten bucks. (Especially if it looks bloated or like it came apart at all, just replace it.) To get to it, remove the shelves, and unscrew the panel. Pull the dial for the temperature selector straight off, and unclip the temp selector from the panel. There will likely be a LOT of ice behind it, if you haven't already defrosted the unit.  If you still have to defrost it, unplug the freezer and place a fan inside of it (up on a couple boards to  keep it out of the melting water). Leave the door open and the fan going for a couple hours and the ice will all be gone, easily, except for the water all over the floor... I'd defrost it in the garage, or outside if possible.\n\n#3  The defrost heater / heating element ( Frigidaire 216730700 Defrost Heater for Freezer ) is located under the heat exchanger, and is attached with some thin aluminum strips. It shouldn't really go bad, so I'd try replacing the above two items first. But if they don't fix it... well here's another forty or fifty bucks to throw at fixing the problem. Be careful with the aluminum strips that hold the defrost heater in place, and you can re-use them. (If they break, do NOT use a non-aluminum wire to hold it in place, or you could ruin your freezer!)\n\nOther diagnostics:  (I haven't done these, but they came up in my searches and fixes.)\n  If the fan doesn't run inside, that's a fairly obvious thing to replace, and looks to be pretty easy. Be sure to cycle the defrost timer to check it.\n  If there is just not enough cooling, but there is no frost buildup and the fan works, then the temperature selector might be the problem.\n  If the compressor doesn't run, there is a capacitor that I've seen come up as a replacement part.\n  If nothing works at all - no lights, no fan, no compressor, then you might have had a power surge that blew out the computer board.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4682, "id": 174235, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 753, "len_tokens": 865, "text": "If you are purchasing this part then you feel confident enough in your ability to do the work.  In that case...  do yourself a favor and look at your existing fan motor before ordering.  This is for a couple of reasons:\n\n1. You may get in there and find that ice has just built up around the fan housing over the years and all you need to do is pull the ice out and wipe it down (this was my case).\n2. You will realize once all of your food is out and melting that this is a \"universal motor\" and you'll be sitting there staring at connectors that are nothing like what you need and a set of worthless instructions telling you to cut and splice wires.\n\nNow, I'm actually pretty capable with splicing, soldering, wiring etc. but the instructions are WORTHLESS (see attached pic).  Black and white, tiny pictures, 4 point font and so blurry that you have no idea what wires they are even asking you to cut.  Then if you actually cut the wires?  No way to know what you are splicing into because the colors aren't even the same.  So I am sure based on current reviews that the part works great for those that just need to plug it in but for those with (probably older) models of this fridge, you are going to be standing there scratching your head while your food melts, squinting at worthless instructions.\n\nFor people wondering if they should do this:\n\n It is relatively easy!  All you need is a 1/4\" nut driver and I had to use needle nose pliers to get to one of the connectors.  Take all of the food and shelves out of the freezer (place the food in a bin and pour the ice in your ice maker dispenser over the top, make sure you wipe everything down before placing them back in the freezer to avoid adding unnecessary moisture and ice back into the unit).  I do not recommend using a drill to re-insert the screws, most of the screws you are going to be working with will be going back into plastic so there is a good chance you will strip the hole.\n UNPLUG THE FRIDGE FROM THE POWER!!!\n There are two screws on top of the ice maker, just loosen them until you can push the ice maker up and pull it over the screws.  They are held on by brackets that look like ^ so the screws don't need to be taken all of the way off.  Push the sides of the power connector and disconnect.  Set aside.\n There are two screws on the bottom of the ice dispenser motor, remove them and put them wherever you're going to put the dispenser.  Lift and set on the shelf below it.  There is a connector that is in a hole in the back.  My fingers were WAY too big to get in there so I had to use the needle nose pliers to grab it and pull it out.  Set aside with the screws that go with it.\n Take all of the shelves and bins out of the freezer.  You do NOT need to remove the brackets that hold the bins that are attached to the wall.\n Remove all of the screws around the large metal plate on top in the back (the one with the hole you had to disconnect the dispenser motor), pull out and set aside with the screws that go with it.\n Remove the screws around the bottom plate just below it, lift it straight up and set the plate and screws aside.\n You should from this point be able to grab the motor housing and pull it out to look at it (or de-ice it if that ended up being your problem)\n See if the connectors are the same as what is shown on the site.  If you still want to go with this motor because of the price research how you will need to splice the connectors.  There ARE motors out there that will just pop in and connect.\n Reverse the steps to get everything back together.  I recommend wiping everything down (including the backs of the metal plates and the motor housing) to get all of the excess moisture out of the unit at this point.  Everything is going to be thawed and wet.  Now would be a good time to give your ice tray a good scrubbing and remove the calcium build up.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4683, "id": 180891, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 685, "len_tokens": 837, "text": "I think I need to review this item in a way I haven't yet seen, for those of us not experienced in converting stoves who have a little trepidation at doing so.\nWhat is received in the kit is a baggie with maybe 15 orifices - small caps to be screwed on top of each of the range's burners.  And an instruction booklet, that's complete, but a little hard for a novice to understand.\n\nThere are described 5 main steps in converting the stove:\n1. Convert the main intake from natural gas to propane, by unscrewing a small capped item in the back by removing the bottom oven drawer, flipping it over and screwing it back and replacing the cap.  Even I had little trouble with this one.\n\n2. Screwing down the oven gas intake to convert it to propane (less gas is needed).  This one always stumps me, when plumbers say to \"hand tighten\" or \"do no over tighten\".  I understand the threads may be stripped by too aggressive tightening.  But, this is less likely with a retired grandmother (me) than with a strong plumber.  It took some effort to tighten this down low enough to limit the flame throwing of the oven burner.\n\n3. Same for the gas intake for the separate broiler intake.  Not hard to do, just hard to get tightened enough to get the flame to the required (lower) length.\n\n4. Replacing the orifices - the little pieces supplied with the kit.  It wasn't hard to remove the burner top and two screws holding the burner down, then unscrewing the orifice already in place.  Then matching the size on the removed orifice and replacing it with the recommended size in the booklet.  There were extra sizes, so a handful of extra parts.  They recommend putting the removed orifices in a baggie & attaching it to the stove in case you ever want to convert back to natural gas.  Good idea and easy to do.\n\nOne thing I read everywhere was to BE CAREFUL not to drop the new orifice into the stove top.  You cannot lift up the stove top to get the orifice back out (unless you remove all screws and undo the gas pipes to the burners - too tricky for me).  I had read about using a piece of paper towel inside your socket to hold the orifice and keep it from falling out.  It worked to a point, but, naturally, I did lose the orifice.  DISASTER!  Or so I thought.  I have a hint here that may be useful to others - if you lose the orifice, tilt the stove to the side nearest where you dropped it (to get it to roll to that side).  Then tilt the stove to the back.  Doing this allowed my orifice to roll to the side, then to the back and drop out of the area by the burners and onto the railing below the drawer where it was easy to retrieve.\n\nAfter this, the stove has to be connected to the gas line according to the stove mfg instructions.  Then the stove burners are adjusted (mine by pulling off the knobs and using a thin bladed screw driver), to the lowest they can go without going out when turned to LOW.  And the oven and broiler both adjusted by adjusting the air flow (a piece above where you adjust them to limit the gas for propane in Steps 2 and 3) - to allow more air if the flame is too big (likely to be).  This has to be done after the stove is connected.\n\nThere are a couple of good videos on YouTube for doing this.  The included instructions were there and complete, but a little hard to follow where the actual adjustment was located on the range.\n\nAll in all, the was a great product.  I give it a five star because I, an amateur, was able to do it relatively easily (although with some trepidation).  And, now that it's hooked up, I love my new range.  But that's another review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4684, "id": 181162, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 738, "len_tokens": 863, "text": "I received this much earlier than anticipated and began using it immediately.  I had read reviews and was nervous particularly about the packaging, but this had a Styrofoam insert top and bottom to hold it securely and the carton was closed securely using that hard plastic non adhesive tape that is used on large cartons.\n\nBased on the earlier reviews I had read, I recommend you buy through the Amazon affiliate rather than directly as it is taking longer for (them_ to get it from warehouse to shipper than it did from First and Best to get them washer to my home..  So far it has proved to be very useful.!\n\nI was getting ready to do a Laundromat run when it arrived so I have done two to three small load each day since it arrived.  I would be doing more, but since I am still waiting on the spin drier, my hands get tired wringing out the clothes and I have limited hanging space.\n\nI use it in the bathroom,since I have a hand held shower to use to fill it.  It came with a second hose for filling with a small spring style hose clamp.  Until I get some better set up, I used the hose clamp to secure the flared end of the second hose to the end of the drain hose to make it longer so that it doesn't flip out of the tub when draining.  I do check that it is secure before each use.  I just put the other end of the hose on the fill spout when I am washing clothes,.\n\nThis actually works very well for me as I wear a lot of intense colors and always had to make the choice between combining my dark colors or doing hand wash.  The first few washes were revealing as a lot of dye STILL came out and some of these clothes are over a year old.\n\nI do find that doing a lot of small loads works better for me than cramming the machine full.  Since it is the motion of the water going through the clothes that does the cleaning, I think I get cleaner clothes and the machine works more quietly.  I did discover just how much the water moves when I did a lot of whites and the bras were all tangled in with the underpants.  Now I do them in two loads and I get a lot less tangles (also fasten the bras before washing - it helps!)\n\nSome people complain about no spin cycle but I did read the reviews and knew that.  My grandmothers both used old wringer washers when I was younger and I just follow their example.  Starting with your lightest colors (unless you use bleach), wash your least soiled clothes first, take them out of the soapy water, set them aside to be rinsed.  Next load is slightly more soiled (or heavier) clothing. i usually do two or three small loads using the same soapy water.  Then I drain the water, and start again with rinsing.  Since these are mostly work clothes and I work in an office, they don't get too dirty.\n\nDo be careful when washing towels as the agitation really stirs up the lint and can get under the impeller.  I found that agitating for a few minutes, soaking for an hour or two, then re-agitating for a few minutes generates less lint than a long constant agitation.\n\nBecause I don't overload the washer, I find it easy enough to life the washer, water and all, to the vanity to drain and try to drain into the toilet so that the lint and soap scum don't clog the pipes for the sink and tub.  Then I set it on top of the toilet to fill again, and then place it on the floor to go through the wash cycle.  My bathroom layout is such that the cord isn't long enough to place the washer in the tub to do its thing.  That would be ideal.\n\nAs long as you are not tempted to overload the washer, whether with clothes, soap or even too high a water level, it is pretty quiet.  I have only had it a short time, but if it doesn't hold up, I will update my review.\n\nI decided to also purchase a centrifugal spin dryer to make laundry day go more quickly", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4685, "id": 181528, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 717, "len_tokens": 868, "text": "This is the best range I've ever owned. I've had it for just a bit over a year now; we purchased this after moving into a new home to replace the existing electric cooktop. We principally use cast iron for cooking, which doesn't perform nearly as well on electric ranges as it does over gas. Previously I'd used a 5-burner, in-counter GE Profile range with an enamel finish on both the cooktop and the pot stands with a separate wall-mounted electric oven.\n\nHere are the primary reasons I really like this product:\n\nFirst, the amount of space on the cooktop beats anything else available in a 30\" width. I personally don't use the central burner very much, except very occasionally as a warmer when preparing large meals, but the presence of that central burner means that the other burners are moved outward somewhat, which means that each primary burner has room for larger pots. I can have a large stock pot and a 13\" cast iron skillet side-by-side on the front burners and still have the back burners usable for pans up to about 10\".\n\nThe griddle that comes with the stove is made of teflon-coated aluminum, which I prefer not to use. Instead, for a griddle, I have a large piece of 5/16\" steel plate with a rim and a pair of handles welded to it which I place across both burners on the left hand side, which can be adjusted to put out about the same amount of heat. When well-seasoned, this plate beats basically any griddle you can buy in terms of heat stability and evenness of cooking.\n\nSpeaking of seasoning, the cast-iron pot stands are another one of my favorite features. As I mentioned before, previously I'd had a stove with enamel-coated pot stands, which were forever looking grimy and scratched easily in cleaning. The cast-iron stands, however, season up like any other cast-iron implement and don't show stains at all. As with most cast iron, never wash these with soap; simply use a rough scrubbing pad and hot water to remove any spills or spatters.\n\nSimilarly, the stainless steel cooktop cleans up great. I just wipe it down every few days with a rag, give it a spray or two of stainless steel cleanser, wipe it off and it looks as good as the day it was purchased. I haven't had any trouble with scratches. I'm sure it would be possible to cook spills on to this surface if you really tried, but if you clean up after cooking there's no issue.\n\nContrary to some reports that I read when purchasing the range, all of the front knobs *do* come off for cleaning. They come off by pulling directly out, without twisting; it is, however, a little hard to get a sufficient grip on them because of their shape. After taking them off a couple of times, though, they come off quite easily.\n\nThe double oven feature is also great; the lower oven is good for pizzas or roasting hors d'ouvres (bacon-wrapped meatballs and bacon-wrapped dates are common in our house) and I use the oven for baking bread and making roasts using the probe on a weekly basis. The temperature control is excellent and the probe-based cook option makes doing a perfect pork shoulder roast as simple as turning the oven on and setting the probe to 155F.\n\nFinally, while this won't make a difference to many, it's even relatively straightforward to take this range apart. I was forced to do so after a mouse that had gotten in to the house through the new hole that we'd drilled for plumbing the gas pipe to the stove climbed up into the range and expired after touching an ungrounded transformer behind the instrument panel. To clean up the mess, I had to completely remove the back, sides, and top of the stove, the instrument panel housing, and more. It was a bit of a job, but the whole thing is put together with torx screws and as long as you keep track of your steps and label everything carefully all the pieces will just lift apart, giving you full access to all of the components should you need to access to replace anything (or get in to deal with a mouse corpse.)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4686, "id": 182452, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 626, "len_tokens": 816, "text": "To give you a perspective of where I'm coming from, I previously had a 48\", 8 burner, double oven Viking range. After moving, I only had room for a 30\" range.\n\nPros:\n\n-Looks good,  This is a freestanding range, not a slide in, but it doesn't have a back piece that sticks up.  I hate the way those look.  You also have to reach over hot burners to get to the controls on most ranges that have the back piece. This is the only range with 2 ovens that is like this except for the Electrolux which is dual fuel and requires a 220 line.  The top of the stove (under the burners) is stainless also. On most ranges it is black even if the front is stainless.\n\n-Huge amount of oven space for 30\".  It has more than my 48\" Viking had.\n\n-Lower oven preheats to 350 in 8 minutes, which is pretty fast.\n\n-2 powerful burners.  They are higher BTUs than the Viking burners. The left front power burner can also can go down very low- almost like a candle for anything very delicate.\n\n-Electronics. Most ranges have most of these, but the \"professional\" ranges like Viking do not.  This includes timer, temperature probe cooking, delayed start, etc.\n\n-Lower oven has an electric element on the ceiling to produce more even heat than just the gas burner on the floor.  Not sure how this affects usage costs (electric costs more than gas almost everywhere in US for ovens).  It is not 220, so maybe the draw isn't than much.\n\n-Self cleaning.  Yes, even cheap ranges are self cleaning now, but some professional are not. My Viking wasn't.\n\n-Ball bearing rack. It moves very smoothly.\n\nCons:\n\n-There is only 1 ball bearing rack in the lower oven. The other 2 (1 in upper, 1 in lower) are standard racks. For this price of stove, it would have been nice for them all to be ball bearing.\n\n-The middle oval burner is not very powerful.  It works fine with the included griddle for pancakes, etc., but you can't generate enough heat for many things.  If I put my cast iron grill/griddle over it (after replacing the griddle with the grate included), it doesn't get hot enough to do a good sear.  Griddle is non-stick and will wear out in time.  I use the grate instead of the griddle. It looks better and gives you a place to move hot pots/pans.\n\n-The lower oven is low to the ground. If you use the upper rack, it is fine. If you use the lower, it is awkwardly low. I try and use the upper oven and middle lower oven racks mainly, so not a big issue.  If you are old, have back problems, etc., take into account that the bottom of the lower oven is almost at the floor.\n\n-The upper oven can handle pizzas, casseroles, veggies, etc.  You can't put anything more than probably 6 inches high.  You can't roast a whole chicken.  I think for most people, that is not a problem as you have the lower oven which is pretty big.  Use the upper for sides, keeping food warm, etc. The broiler is in the upper oven also.\n\n-I wouldn't have minded another power burner. The 2 back burners are pretty low output.  I guess 2 powerful burners is pretty good.\n\nOther notes:\n\n-The noise from the fan is nothing. Those that complained have super hearing or a defective stove.  It is more quiet than my Bosch dishwasher.\n\n-If you like to bake bread, use the lower convection oven. Do your final rise of the dough in the upper oven which will be warm, but not hot from the preheating of the lower oven.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4687, "id": 182631, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 691, "len_tokens": 839, "text": "I don't understand all the negative reviews here. When I bought my Cabrio about 5 1/2 years ago, it was one of the highest rated machines by Consumer Reports. I don't always agree with or go by their ratings in some things, and they can overlook problems, but they seem to have a pretty good testing system for washing machines. As mentioned, I've had it about 5 1/2 years, and I have not had a single repair problem, although I only need to do laundry about once a week. I usually use it set on Normal, but I may try Casual now, as one reviewer mentioned it gives it more water. However too little water has not been a problem. I have a white machine with a clear top, so I have watched the mechanism in action as it's washing clothes, and even in the Normal setting it does wet and rotate clothes in the wash. At first I didn't realize it needed HE detergent, but no harm was done and once I switched to HE detergent the clothes seemed even cleaner, about as clean as with an old Kenmore with a traditional agitator used in my previous residence. It seems like the agitation used in cabrio is gentler on the clothes, from observation of the action and perceived wear to my garments. More recently I started adding non-chlorine bleach (hydrogen peroxide). I always run the extra rinse cycle, just to make sure the detergent is rinsed out completely--I did that with my previous machine and would do that no matter what machine I used.\n\nI thought the washer may have been eating some socks, as I was missing about 4 or 5 mates, but I recently found several, including one long-lost one, so it wasn't the machine. I don't know if most modern machines have this, but I like the load balancing mechanism--I assume that's what it is--which gives the load a few spins at first, stops the drum short, and a balancing weight slides into position. If there are too many clothes, at some point in the wash cycle the machine stops, drains the water, shuts itself off and gives its shut-off beeps. The LCD screen reads oL, which means overload, so you need to take out one or more pieces of clothes and start the wash over with more detergent (it shuts off before the bleach is added, so that doesn't need to be replenished). This only happened for the first time in the last year, and only a few times.\n\nI think most of the problems people have with the machine (I can't speak to repair problems, as I've never had any), is that they are not used to the agitation mechanism and wash action, expecting it to fill the tub, and don't understand it. When Consumer Reports did one of their wash tests, which is to leave the clothes in the washer, for a period of days, I think, to see if any mold or odors developed, the Cabrio did fine in that regard, an indication it was thoroughly cleaning the clothes, and I have never experienced any odors in machine.\n\nPS My model, being from 2009, may be a little different than the ones reviewed here, as someone mentioned a Sanitize setting, which mine doesn't have, but I believe it's basically the same model, 4.6 cu. ft., stainless steel drum, clear top, etc.\n\nPPS it's now January 16, 2016, 11 months after I wrote this review, and the problem with the overload shutting the machine down and having to remove a garment, which is not fully spun dry, is happening almost every time now, and I'm not putting any more close in that I did before this started happening about two years ago. Researching the problem it seems this is a known issue, probably related to either corrosion or rust on the driveshaft, or the nut on the bottom which holds the assembly together becoming loose and falling off--this assembly is usually designed with the nut of the top to avoid this problem. It could also be a control panel or sensor problem.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4688, "id": 182698, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 744, "len_tokens": 893, "text": "I purchased this washer in January 2010 and was initially happy with the way it cleaned and I liked the top loader without an agitator so it could handle bulky items.  The first year was great and the high speed spin cycle got the clothes almost dry so that very little time was spent in the matching gas dryer.\nJanuary 2011 was my first service call, a week after the manufacturers warrantee expired.  Fortunately for me the day I purchased it the unit was on sale for $100 less than I was expecting to pay and I was talked into the extended 4 year warrantee for $79.  I don't usually purchase these warrantees but did this time because it was lower than my budgeted total cost.  Best money I have ever spent!  The January 2011 service call was a covered item, a control board part that cost around $250.  Since then we have had several service calls, another replaced control board, other misc. parts I don't know and several weeks ago it started getting the dreaded UL (unbalanced load) code on a regular basis, to the point a load would have to be rinsed at least 3 times before it would cycle thru to the end and finally it wouldn't do the final rinse with a constant UL code.  I ran the washer with nothing in it because the warrantee company said it wasn't a warrantee issue but I didn't know how to load the machine I've had for almost 4 years.  I still got the UL code so another call to the service center to schedule an appointment.  Based on this information they diagnosed the problem, ordered parts and scheduled an appointment a couple of weeks out.  Service tech comes and it's not the problem diagnosed over the phone but a major bearing, the motor and other expensive parts.  Again at least it's not costing me money, but I will be without a washing machine for almost a month before this worthless POS is working again.  It's less than 4 years old and it's been one of the worst appliances I have owned;  the service tech told me that major appliance like this have a 5 year life span these days, not what I would expect from a $1,000 item and I didn't even get close to that without major problems, in fact I made it only to 53 weeks.\nWe had constant problems with an oversudsings error code, using the HE detergent; LD - long drain issues where the unit would shut down and not drain properly and UL codes over the years.  Advice from service techs always seemed to be a problem other than the manufacturer design and quality, one tech said the LD issue and oversudsing was the HE detergent we were using (not a bargain no name brand but a leading company) the next tech said the current brand we switched to was the issue and recommended the original detergent we had been using.  Is someone kidding!  When we had LD - long drain issues - there would be a definite foul odor from the machine that didn't make you feel good about putting normal soiled clothes in a cleaning machine that smelled so foul.\nI will not spend any of my money on servicing this machine and the next issue will be the last one I deal with.  Nor can I recommend anyone purchase it, at any price this washing machine is not worth the aggravation of a poor design, with a good concept, and obviously poor quality.  I'm not sure I'll buy another Whirlpool product.\n\nUpdate - Jan 2014 - When the service tech came out with the replacement parts from Whirlpool the replacement part was broken and the machine couldn't be fixed again.  Another delay and reordering of the part, this time the service company promised me that they would inspect the part prior to having a tech come to my house.  They did and the second part from Whirlpool was broken also.  It's bad enough to have a broken appliance, but to have two defective replacement parts sent was the last straw. I have a new non-Whirlpool washing machine.  The first month has been good and I did purchase an extended warrantee.  Other brand names from the same parent company of Whirlpool include Maytag, KitchenAid, and I understand also they manufactures for the Sears Kenmore line so they were all excluded from being purchased.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4689, "id": 183948, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 716, "len_tokens": 873, "text": "I love my EdgeStar countertop dishwasher! It is about the size of the microwaves of 1980s, so it isn't huge like a built-in, but it isn't tiny/mini either. I would venture to guess there is about the room of the bottom level of a full-size dishwasher.  It is a perfect size for my husband and me, and it would be perfect for any mobile home or apartment.  I've had it about 1 month, and it is THE best appliance we'd ever purchased. I was skeptical at first because I couldn't go into a store and touch it and look for myself before we decided to buy one. We had no problem hooking it up [and you can go online YouTube for a tutorial to watch how simple it actually is].  We have very hard water, and all I use is one Cascade action pac and I just place it into the soap container and shut the lid of the soap container. I use JetDry rinse agent, which you take the lid off, pour into the specified spot, and replace the cover [the directions state that the container should be refilled every month for great results]. I have no spots on any of my dishes and flatware at all.  I always rinse off my dishes before I place them into the unit, because that is how I am. [If I ever wanted to hire a housekeeper, I would clean house before she came, too.] I don't wash my pots and pans in the EdgeStar, I prefer to wash them by hand. I usually wait until evening to wash dishes, because there is just my husband and me. The last rinse is heated in the dishwasher [there is no heating coil like in the large dishwashers], so when the dishwasher drains for the last time, it will beep 8 times, and the LED reading shows the minutes you had chosen for washing--it will not say DONE or FINISHED, so don't wait for it  I just open the door a couple inches, go to bed, and in the morning everything is dry, spotless, and ready to put away. I washed a load, earlier than usual yesterday afternoon, and after the wash was finished, I cracked the door open, and about 1 hour or so later, everything was dry and ready to put away. After I put the dishes away, I always take out the filters at the bottom of the unit and rinse them off, as the directions state to do.  I take a microfiber towel to sop up some of the water that naturally sets under the filters following a wash, and I use that wet towel to wipe down the inside of the dishwasher, my stove, countertops, and sink, as there is some of the JetDry mixed into that last water. Everything I wipe stays spotless and shiny, as well. I love it!! After I put dishes away, I always leave the dishwasher door ajar because there is naturally a bit of water setting under the filters. Something to note: As the JetDry bottle nozzle is too short, and I found I did more spilling around the \"rinse agent\", I went to the DollarStore and picked up one of those plastic red/yellow mustard/catsup containers that you refill and take on picnics.  I just emptied the JetDry into the plastic mustard container and affixed the little tab that is attached to the purchased container,  to keep the opening covered. It works great! The nozzle is long enough that I don't spill as I refresh the rinse agent into the container. I hope that this has been a help to you. It is easy peasy and the dishes are beautiful and spotless and I couldn't be happier.  For 16 yrs my husband has poo-poo'd getting a dishwasher until I mentioned seeing this EdgeStar on Amazon.com.  We live in a mobile home and we just didn't have room for a huge rolling unit and I didn't want to give up cupboard space for a unit. He liked the idea, checked out ALL of the comments on Amazon.com, and agreed to get it. We purchased the SmartGuard Protection insurance, as well.  If anything ever happened to my EdgeStar, I would purchase another one in a heartbeat! You will not be disappointed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4690, "id": 185028, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 671, "len_tokens": 805, "text": "I just got rid of the worst washing machine that I have ever had.....Whirlpool duet steam 4.5 cubic feet side load machine. Initially, it seemed like the perfect washer, but it was TERRIBLE! Clothes were stinky and would not get clean (no water), the cycle times were ridiculously long and the machine broke several times and it cost over $300 each visit.  None of the features worked.  So, I wanted to get a non-HE machine that had no electrical components or error codes that would not break down.  I wanted a machine that actually had an agitator in the middle, used regular laundry detergent, would fill with water and didn't need to be cleaned with afresh every 3 weeks.  I also wanted a washer that had a hand wash and delicate cycle.  So after doing a lot of research, I found the perfect machine.  All of the stinky clothes that were never washed properly are now clean and smell great.  Out of all the other speed queen models, the AWN 542 is the only machine that has a fabric selector that has a regular, perm press, knits, delicate options and a cycle selector which has (regular [with pre-wash option], perm press, delicate, hand wash and soak). The tub is stainless steel and large enough for my needs at 3.5 cubic feet. This model also comes with an extra spin switch that you can turn on or off.  Other reviewers are correct in that the washer does not fill all the way to the top (it fills to just over 3/4 of the way full), this is a restriction created by the government to conserve water.  You can fill the tub to the top by using the refill option, but you must twist and hold it until it fills all the way to the top.  Make sure to note that there is no sensor that will tell you when it is full (and the water will not automatically stop) or more importantly when it is too full, so be careful. During the spin cycle you must do the same thing if you have a large load in there (hold the refill button to fill to top).  There is a way to over-ride this annoying feature - you can search on youtube - I haven't done it yet, but plan to.  The wash times are very short and the machine is very powerful. I am so used to my old piece of junk whirlpool that took 1 hr 30 minutes for a normal cycle, that sometimes I wish there was a longer cycle option available (there is pre wash), but I am sure that is just my own paranoia.  For heavy soiled clothes/loads, after the water fills and I added the detergent, I pull the lid open (this will pause the washer) to allow the load to soak before I start the cycle. Everything is manual on this machine - but very well made and commercial grade which is exactly what I wanted.  There are no buttons and gadgets - it's a pretty simple machine that is not fancy to look at.  If you like a lot of gadgets and buttons, this will likely not be the machine for you.  I love how well it cleans my clothes, the short cycle times and being able to control the amount of water that i want in each load (and the option to add more water if I need it).  It is true that the rinse cycle is always cold - there is no way to change this which is the only downfall of this machine and all speed queen machines from what I understand.  I do notice that if I wash any of perm press items (gym clothes, blouses) with anything cotton it attracts lint very easily and sticks to the fabric.  Aside from that, I absolutely love this machine and think you will too.  I also bought the speed queen dryer ADG4BR (gas) it's 7 cubic feet and is amazing!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4691, "id": 185044, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 668, "len_tokens": 841, "text": "When my GE profile gave up the ghost after 14 years, I had to search for a replacement washer.  As others have noted, the so-called new HE top loaders and the front loaders are, quite simply, five star pieces of junk.  Imagine replacing a control panel after 2 years, dealing with mold along with numerous \"fault codes!\".\n\nThankfully, Speed Queen still produces a machine that does precisely what it should do...clean the darn clothes.\n\nThat being said, what you will find here is a sturdy, well made machine that isn't a whole lot different from SQ models of prior years. No bells, whistles, or convoluted contrivances designed to make one crazy, just simple straightforward controls.\n\nThis machine is a 2 speed unit, has multiple fill levels (more on that later), a stainless tub, bleach dispenser, fab softener dispenser, and extra rinse switch.\n\nThe tub measures 3.3 cu ft in terms of capacity.  It comes with a 1/2 hp motor and a still uses an old fashioned belt to drive the transmission. I won't go into the details on how to use this machine; if you can run grandma's, then you can run this one without having to consult the manual.\n\nHow does it wash? Very well indeed! The agitator runs at a 210 degree cycle, longer strokes vs short and harsh strokes on other machines.  The only drawbacks are 1. The \"warm\" is barely warm (thanks gov't) and 2. the fill on the max load is still a bit shy of full capacity. I understand this is fixable but I have yet to mess with the water level adjustment.\n\nOverall, the machine is very quiet indeed. If you are familiar with an old school top loader, this machine won't throw any surprises at you.  It has a pause/agitate on delicate/handwash cycle and will spray for about 45 seconds on the rinse cycle.  Spin speed on normal is 710 RPM and the clothes do come out less damp than they did with my GE Profile top loader.  The lid does not lock like the anal retentive HE top loaders so if you happen to forget to add something, you can simply raise the lid (wash action stops) add the item, close the lid and go about your business.  In addition, the cycle times are in line with a normal top loader, no 2 hour affair just to wash a simple load of clothes.\n\nNaturally, old school quality has a price and this machine is not cheap. Those who insist on the cheapest of the cheap at your local BIG BOX store should probably look elsewhere. I paid $829.00 plus tax from a local appliance store in my area.  I am satisfied with my purchase. SQ alone actually has a warranty longer than a measly 12 months!  Don't take my word for it, check out Whirlpool, Amana, GE, Frigidare, and Maytag.  Yup, a 12 month warranty, that's all.  But many will insist cheaper is better. Good luck to you on that one.\n\nSQ on the other hand obviously has confidence in their machine as noted by the warranty terms below:\nTopload Washer Models\n* Three (3) years parts and labor limited warranty on the complete washer.\n* Five (5) year limited warranty on cabinet assembly against rust from the inside out. Year 4 through 5 parts only limited warranty.\n* Five (5) year limited warranty on the motor. Year 4 through 5 parts only limited warranty.\n* Ten (10) year limited warranty on the transmission assembly. Year 4 through 10 parts only limited warranty.\n* Lifetime limited warranty on the stainless steel tub and outer tub against rust or corrosion.\n\nI highly recommend this machine for those who are put off by intrusive government regulations that have resulted in masses of cheaply made machines that cause more grief than should be.  On the other hand, for the skinflints out there, keep on keeping on heading to your local BIG BOX and grabbing the cheapest pile of junk you can.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4692, "id": 185046, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 668, "len_tokens": 821, "text": "I have to stand up in the midst of these glowing remarks and speak my peace.  While these washers seem to be wonderful - mechanical (which was one of our requirements when we were looking), stainless tub, top load, real water temp (hot is really hot) - they don't wash dirty clothes worth beans.  The washing cycles are too short, and they don't rinse out well - even with the second rinse.  In addition, for example, my son came home the other day from hiking with his friends and the bottom of his pants were dirty and sandy.  No problem, right?  Throw them in the washer with the second rinse and we should be good.  After all, that is as simple as it had been for the last almost 20 years with my Maytags.  Sorry, major fail.  All it did was migrate the dirt to other clothes in the batch and to other parts of the pants!  Not only that, there was dirt and dirty water in the bottom of the tub. And no, I did not over-load my wash.\n\nOther minor issues:  The top discolors quickly and easily - it's just paint, not porcelain.  The hinge on the lid also squeaks and has to be lubricated.\n\nThese are ok for those who may not need heavy duty washing as we do since we have four kids at home.  But if you really need good cleaning - try something else.  Our friends who bought the Samsung front loaders have been very pleased over the last 2.5 yrs they have owned theirs.  This Speed Queen was a mistake.  My dryer review will list separately, but it has been even worse.\n\nWe have had ours for about two years now and we are thoroughly disappointed.  If we could afford to dump these and get the Samsungs that we should have bought in the first place, we would do it in a heartbeat.  I give it two stars since it does at least function and nominally wash clothes.  But hate it we do.\n\nUpdate as of February 2014.\nThis washer continues to disappoint.  It does not rinse all the soap out, continues to wash poorly and leaves dirt and sand in the bottom of the tub.  When you look carefully, the holes in the tub are not positioned for the dirt, sand, etc. to drain out of them with the water - the holes are more up on the side so the heavier sediments just gather on the bottom of the tub.  Not only that, but that sand and dirt just seems to get re-distributed throughout the load and onto different parts of the dirty clothes.\n\nThe company is not helpful in trying to deal with these things. Come on, it's a washing machine - after all these years can't you get it right?\n\nUPDATE as of 12/19/2014\nWell, I updated my rating for the washer to two stars.  It has been doing its designed job in an OK fashion.  We have adjusted to its challenges, kinda of, but still not happy about the fact that the wash cycle is so short and it won't wash really dirty clothing very well, just transferring dirt around to different parts of the clothing (usually pants my kids have been camping in).  Still noisy and since the top is just painted, it is starting to discolor now as well.\n\nFINAL UPDATE as of 2/7/2015\nWell, the washer left the house last Thursday, never to return.  Goodbye short wash cycles, inability to get clothes clean when they are really dirty, goodbye poor rinsing.  Sorry, but it just didn't balance out the manual controls, straight hot water and a wash tub that actually filled with water.  It just couldn't wash clothes very well.\n\nIn it's place is now a Maytag MHW7100dw front load washer.  After just a few days, we have found that it can wash clothes in very little water just as well - in fact better than the Speed Queen did - RIP.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4693, "id": 185240, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 699, "len_tokens": 872, "text": "There're numerous attributes about the Avanti portable dryer model, D-110-1 and some not so great. First, the unit is very light weight (40 lbs) which makes it very portable. I purchased a dryer venting box for inside venting, but found I didn't need it. This unit doesn't put off much heat or moisture(less than a small pot of boiling water) or lint, since it has duel filters(more on these later). The amount of heat is much less than a full size dryer yet gets the clothes dry in a gentle but fairly decent time frame. It helps to dry, similar materials together, keeping in mind jeans will take a bit longer. Clothes come out wrinkle free, and not burning hot like larger dryers, which means much less damage to your clothes. It's a fairly impressive dryer. Never over-fill the dryer, clothes will not dry in a timely fashion. The dryer does not have a dryer signal to alert you upon completion of the cycle. But it does have Hot, Warm and Air Only cycle plus a cool down setting to keep your clothes from wrinkling if you don't get to it right away. All the bells and whistles my full size had.\n\nUpon initial install the unit gave a horrible screeching sound, I pulled the back off and discovered the belt(very thin one) was not on properly, made adjustment. It appeared to be fixed but soon after unit once again would squeak and squeal, making it impossible to be in the room when it was running. Four months into use, the noise went away on it's own.\n\nThe dryers filter system is somewhat daunting but it does serve a purpose to keep lint out of your house, if you choose indoor venting. There are several layers of filters and one that will need to be replaced after some time is a wool like material that after five months of use. I've had a difficult time finding replacements. I've searched the web, to make sure I had extra parts on hand like extra belts since the one that drives the unit is very thin. I've not found any parts houses that carry Avanti parts and the manual does not provide buyers with a parts list or schematic. Making parts identification difficult. I did find a similar \"filter\" material at the fabric store and made my own, and they seem to work better. I discovered the Avanti filter is the same as the Haier HLP140E portable dryer filter.\n\nAll in all I really love the convenience and appearance of the Avanti dryer. And hope they have better availability for parts and filters in the future. I took off one star for the noise and poor parts availability.\n\nUPDATE: 12/28/11, After locating a parts (blowout) list, for this dryer. I made an attempt to order extra replacement parts, via Avanti. Ordering the parts from the number in the included catalog was straight forward, but after a month of waiting for \"in-stock\" parts I called once again to check the status, and got the run around. I waited another two weeks, and still no parts. When I called the third time, I was told they \"just\" were put into stock that moment, and they would \"expedite\" the shipment. While I was not impressed with the Parts availability from the start, I was really let down by the delay and run-around the parts department gave me. I even lessened the amount of filters and belts I ordered to assure quicker delivery, since the parts department informed me of the total number they had in stock. I think, I'll buy my filters and parts via Haier rather than Avanti, since they are the exact same part, but different makers. Avanti needs better service badly.\n\nThose of you needing Filter replacement, here are the part numbers and description of each filter.\nThere are actually three \"filters\"\n1. Small one at the door latch, called \"air inlet filter\"\nPart # GYJ42.2-4\n2. The tighter mesh screen inside the plastic circle, called \"filter\"\nPart # GYJ42.5-5\n3. Wool like fabric against the tub on back wall. called, \"filter of inner tub\"\nPart # GYJ42.5-6", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4694, "id": 185241, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 699, "len_tokens": 873, "text": "There're numerous attributes about the Avanti portable dryer model, D-110-1 and some not so great. First, the unit is very light weight (40 lbs) which makes it very portable. I purchased a dryer venting box for inside venting, but found I didn't need it. This unit doesn't put off much heat or moisture(less than a small pot of boiling water) or lint, since it has duel filters(more on these later). The amount of heat is much less than a full size dryer yet gets the clothes dry in a gentle but fairly decent time frame. It helps to dry, similar materials together, keeping in mind jeans will take a bit longer. Clothes come out wrinkle free, and not burning hot like larger dryers, which means much less damage to your clothes. It's a fairly impressive dryer. Never over-fill the dryer, clothes will not dry in a timely fashion. The dryer does not have a dryer signal to alert you upon completion of the cycle. But it does have Hot, Warm and Air Only cycle plus a cool down setting to keep your clothes from wrinkling if you don't get to it right away. All the bells and whistles my full size had.\n\nUpon initial install the unit gave a horrible screeching sound, I pulled the back off and discovered the belt(very thin one) was not on properly, made adjustment. It appeared to be fixed but soon after unit once again would squeak and squeal, making it impossible to be in the room when it was running. Four months into use, the noise went away on it's own.\n\nThe dryers filter system is somewhat daunting but it does serve a purpose to keep lint out of your house, if you choose indoor venting. There are several layers of filters and one that will need to be replaced after some time is a wool like material that after five months of use. I've had a difficult time finding replacements. I've searched the web, to make sure I had extra parts on hand like extra belts since the one that drives the unit is very thin. I've not found any parts houses that carry Avanti parts and the manual does not provide buyers with a parts list or schematic. Making parts identification difficult. I did find a similar \"filter\" material at the fabric store and made my own, and they seem to work better. I discovered the Avanti filter is the same as the Haier HLP140E  portable dryer filter.\n\nAll in all I really love the convenience and appearance of the Avanti dryer. And hope they have better availability for parts and filters in the future. I took off one star for the noise and poor parts availability.\n\nUPDATE: 12/28/11, After locating a parts (blowout) list, for this dryer. I made an attempt to order extra replacement parts, via Avanti. Ordering the parts from the number in the included catalog was straight forward, but after a month of waiting for \"in-stock\" parts I called once again to check the status, and got the run around. I waited another two weeks, and still no parts. When I called the third time, I was told they \"just\" were put into stock that moment, and they would \"expedite\" the shipment. While I was not impressed with the Parts availability from the start, I was really let down by the delay and run-around the parts department gave me. I even lessened the amount of filters and belts I ordered to assure quicker delivery, since the parts department informed me of the total number they had in stock. I think, I'll buy my filters and parts via Haier rather than Avanti, since they are the exact same part, but different makers. Avanti needs better service badly.\n\nThose of you needing Filter replacement, here are the part numbers and description of each filter.\nThere are actually three \"filters\"\n1. Small one at the door latch, called \"air inlet filter\"\nPart # GYJ42.2-4\n2. The tighter mesh screen inside the plastic circle, called \"filter\"\nPart # GYJ42.5-5\n3. Wool like fabric against the tub on back wall. called, \"filter of inner tub\"\nPart # GYJ42.5-6", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4695, "id": 185781, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 707, "len_tokens": 889, "text": "I love my Whirlpool Duet Sport WFW8300SW (3.4 capacity) Front Loading washer and I'd recommend it to everyone I know.  After several major brands turned into duds, Whirlpool and Kenmore are the only brands I trust for major appliances.\n\nFeatures I love:\n\nI don't have to guess the amount of water to use for the size of my load. This machine has an auto water level that adjusts to the size of the load. Since there is no agitator, my washer has increased in capacity. I can put more clothes in ...... up to 10 pairs of jeans!  This model will let me add a garment during the 1st 7 minutes of a cycle before the door remains locked. I can choose from 3 spin speeds, 3 water temps, and I can add an extra rinse. The 7 preset cycles seem good enough to me but I'm happy I can make adjustments if needed. I love the quietness of this washer. I actually enjoy the sound of the gentle tumbling in and out of the water. My laundry feels softer and smells better despite that I'm using just 1/3 the recommended amount of fabric softener. An added bonus is that I will get a $100 rebate from my water company for buying this water-saving machine. I wish I could justify buying the matching dryer but my old dryer runs perfectly. Maybe in the future............\n\nSome things to consider if you're torn between top loading and front loading washers:\n\nTop Load Washer Advantages:\n\nThey're cheaper.\n\nWash cycles are shorter.\n\nYou don't have to bend down to get your clothes out of the washer.\n\nYou can add an article of clothing at any time.\n\nTop Load Disadvantages:\n\nThey use a lot of water, more energy to operate, and are hard on your clothes. The agitator is a brutal device that basically \"beats\" your clothes while drowning them. This is very hard on fabrics, particularly dark clothes, delicates and sweaters (I did see one top loader without an agitator but read that these machines do not achieve the greatest wash results).\n\nThey are LOUD and can become unbalanced fairly easily.\n\nNo ENERGY STAR models.\n\nThey house a lot more machinery, which can mean more repairs.\n\nFront Load washer advantages:\n\nMuch less water used - 14 to 20 gallons vs. up to 44 gallons in top load machines. Front loading machine drums are on a horizontal axis. They only use enough water to cover approximately the lower third of the tub while your clothes are tumbled up and around, in and out of the water.\n\nThey use 67% less electricity and gas. They have less mechanical gear so they don't have to work as hard.\n\nGentler on your clothes.  The drum has no agitator so your clothes will not get whipped around and stretched.\n\nCleans better. The clothes are drawn through the water, not the water through the clothes.\n\nThe spin cycle is twice as fast as top loaders, which leads to less time in the dryer. So far I've noticed this results in 10-15 minutes less dryer time which equals more savings in energy. Also, there is now considerably less lint in the lint trap after each load.\n\nLess water = less detergent, less softener, less bleach.\n\nNot having an agitator gives 25-30% more space for larger loads.\n\nDisadvantages:\n\nLonger wash cycles.\n\nExcessive soap suds can create problems for the machine. I am supposed to buy a special soap labeled HE - High efficiency. Apparently many major brands sell this detergent but I haven't purchased it yet. I have tons of regular detergent and simply use 2/3 less.\n\nI have to bend down to put in and remove laundry.  (Whirlpool makes a matching pedestal with a drawer. Pricey, but it's an option.)\n\nI can't soak laundry overnight since the water doesn't cover the clothes. I suppose I could soak in a bucket if needed.\n\nI have to run the \"clean\" cycle with chlorine bleach once a month. It is important to do because mildew can occur due to the air-tight seal on the front door. I should leave the door ajar after each load but this could be dangerous with cats around.\n\nNow it's up to you to decide.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4696, "id": 186160, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 682, "len_tokens": 816, "text": "I got my Eco-Egg because my small apartment has no washer or dryer hookups. I was looking for two things out of this product specifically- 1) compact size, and 2) ease of use. I loathe taking my clothes to the laundromat as it's often prohibitively expensive to do so and it rarely fits into my busy college and work schedule when I DO have the extra cash to clean all of my clothes.\n\nRegarding the first of my criteria, COMPACT SIZE:\n\nMy apartment is very small. The amount of counter space near the sink (where the Eco-Egg is hooked up) as well as the amount of storage space throughout my home are both quite restricted. I needed a machine that would hold a decent load of laundry but would not take up much space. The Eco-Egg definitely hits the mark in this regard.\n\nIt was much larger in person than I had imagined based on the pictures, but once I had it put together and ready to run, I realized that it is actually surprisingly compact. It fits easily on my kitchen counter and when it is not in use, it can be stored elsewhere in my kitchen without being too obtrusive.\n\nAs for the second of my criteria, EASE OF USE:\n\nI found the user's manual to be mostly unhelpful. There were no directions for how to assemble the machine (luckily, it was not difficult to figure out on my own) and the directions regarding use were just a little... off. They were not impossible to figure out (the machine is basically straightforward- hit ON, start a full cycle, leave machine alone, the end!) but they were not super helpful either. However, if we ignore the manual entirely, the machine itself is INSANELY EASY TO USE. I just dumped in a few small clothing items, added a tablespoon of detergent, and started the Egg up. It washed the load very quickly, and then even had a funnel attachment that I could add to keep water from dripping everywhere when I was wringing out the clothes.\n\nThe only thing that WAS NOT insanely easy to use was the water connection line-thing that attaches the egg to the sink. While it wasn't difficult to install, unhooking it for storage was trickier. I spilled water all over my floor before I realized that all the water had not been pumped out of the machine and tubes. Be careful disassembling for this reason!\n\nAs other reviews have noted, there is NO SPIN CYCLE, so clothes are very damp when they come out. Personally, I wring mine out as much as possible, and then hang them up to dry. Lightweight items like underwear and t-shirts dry in a few hours while heavier items like pants take much, much longer to air dry. My pants have been hanging for almost 24 hours now and are still a little damp, so make sure to wring clothes out thoroughly and to allow plenty of dry time (if you are air drying.)\n\nI don't even care that some of my clothes are still damp the next day, though. They are much, MUCH cleaner than when I was hand washing them. They look and smell great! The Eco-Egg really washed them hard core! And it was surprisingly quiet as it did so.\n\nPlus, at just over $100, I'm going to save a lot of money (and time!) that would have been spent at my hot, crowded, horrible neighborhood laundromat.\n\nThe Egg can hold a SMALL pile of laundry. Basically a few shirts and socks OR a pair of jeans and maybe a few pairs of underwear OR a hoodie and a few tank tops, etc. Really, it can launder one big item and a few small ones or a bunch of small ones with no big items. I had hoped my comforter might be able to make it in, but there's really no way.\n\nRegardless, I'm pleased with this purchase and would certainly recommend this product to anyone looking for a small washer that is easy to use and to store.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4697, "id": 190217, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 742, "len_tokens": 890, "text": "I bought this set from Home Depot 2 weeks ago. My mom has the front load option, which I love, so I decided to give this set a try. I scoured reviews for a month before deciding, so it wasn't a quick decision. I tried to leave a less than stellar review at Home Depot, and I got an e-mail saying that my review was denied. I was careful not to mention other product names or retailers, and I pointed out the pros and cons of the set. Now it makes me wonder how many bad reviews this set ACTUALLY HAS, if they won't let you submit a bad one. I tried to submit it twice, denied both times. So, here I am.\nPros- Uses less water, so the dry time is shorter\nHas a lot of wash options\nLooks pretty\nCons- When I wash my husbands work clothes that smell like grease and sweat, they come out after washing smelling like grease and sweat. I read a review at Home Depot that mentioned this, but hoped it was just a picky consumer. Sadly, not so much. I have noticed that many items (our new comforter, dog blankets, etc) have had the same problem. Nothing comes out smelling cleaner or any better than when it went in.\nThe wash tub makes a loud metal on metal clunking sound when it moves. The tube rocks side to side to gauge load size and when it washes. Sometimes it sounds like there is broken metal inside.\nYou can't use those downy freshner pellets (the kind you add to the washer pre-wash). The clothes never get wet enough to rinse it out, and the result is you will have them melted and stuck to everything in the load. This makes no sense to me, as it goes through a wash cycle and a spin cycle and they never wash or rinse off. To me, this says a lot about how well it cleans clothes.\n\nPersonally, I wouldn't recommend this set. I paid almost $2k with the protection plan, and they are BY FAR not worth that much. Also, if you are buying from Home Depot, when they tell you that the protection plan is an extended warranty, IT'S NOT!! It starts the day of purchase, not when the manufacturers warranty ends, even if it takes 3 weeks to deliver them. The first year the set is covered by LG. So basically, Home Depot makes money for that first year of the extra protection plan for doing NOTHING. I would still recommend getting the extra protection plan, however. This set doesn't seem nearly stable enough to make it more than a year, if that long, without having problems. I just think it's shady that they make money for doing nothing the first year. The Home Depot plan covers exactly the same things as the LG manufacturer warranty, by the way.\n\n**Update** 4/24/14. I have been using this set for several months. The point in using the HE set is it is supposed to use less water and detergent. It was recommended I only use 1 TBS of soap per load. LOL! Nope. I have to use a full cup or the clothes come out smelly and dirty. Because it uses so little water, you will end up having to use an extra rinse, sometimes 2, as the clothes will come out spotted with fabric softener. Having to rinse the load 3 times is hardly saving water!! As an added bonus?? The washer says it is uneven 4 out of 5 loads. According to the tub, a level AND the repairman it is level. I have to open the lid and rearrange what is inside sometimes 6 or 7 times trying to even it out before the washer will finish the cycle. It is not uncommon for a single load to take 3 hours to wash when this happens. The dryer has stained and ruined our comforter with what looks like black grease that won't come out. I have called Home Depot NUMEROUS times trying to do something about the wasted $2k for a washer and dryer that are horrible. The most they will do is send out a \"tech\" to see if the set has mechanical problems. DO NOT BUY THIS SET!!! For the money, you could by 2 sets of the old style washer with the agitator and I GUARANTEE you will be happier.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4698, "id": 190218, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 524, "len_tokens": 814, "text": "PURCHASED THIS UNIT IN DECEMBER 2012. THE FIRST TIME I USED THIS WASHER IT WAS CLEAR FROM WATCHING THROUGH THE CLEAR LID THAT THERE WAS NOT ENOUGH WATER IN THE TUB TO ALLOW THE CLOTHES TO TURN OVER. i HAVE WATCHED THE ENTIRE WASH CYCLE OF THIS MACHINE MANY TIMES AND IT IS 95% CONSISTENTLY INSUFFICIENT WATER TO CLEAN PROPERLY. SOMETIMES THE SAME DRIP OF MUSTARD WILL BE THERE AFTER THE CYCLE COMPLETES. iT IS THE SAME WITH ALL OF THE OTHER HEAVILY SOILED ITEMS. i HAVE TRIED TO CLEAN ON OTHER CYCLE SETTINGS WITH SIMILAR RESULTS. TODAY I HAD MY THIRD VISIT FROM AN LG TECH. THE FIRST TIME THE INDEPENDENT TECHNICIAN, AFTER BEING ON THE PHONE WITH THE LG FACTORY TECHNICAL CENTER, COMPLETING ELECTRONIOC OVER-THE-PHONE DIAGNOSTICS, CONCLUDED THERE WAS A PROBLEM AND ORDERED A CIRCUIT BOARD THAT CONTROLED THE LOAD SENSOR WHICH CONTROLS THE AMOUNT OF WATER ENTERING THE TUB. TWO WEEKS LATER THE PART ARRIVED AND WAS INSTALLED. WHEN I STARTED USING THE MACHINE AGAIN, THE PROBLEM SEEMED TO BE BETTER. WITHIN SEVERAL MONTHS IT WAS BACK TO LOW WATER ISSUES. A SECOND CALL TO LG SERIVCE PRODUCED ANOTHER INDEPENDENT TECH WHO CONCLUDED, WITH THE HELP OF THE LG FACTORY, THAT THE SENSOR ON THE MOTOR/PUMP WAS DEFECTIVE. ONCE AGAIN A PART WAS ORDERED AND SOME WEEKS LATER THEY RETURNED TO INSTALL IT. SOME TIME PASSED AND THE MACHINE STOPPED CLEANING THE CLOTHES DUE TO LOW WATER. HOWEVER THIS LAST VISIT WAS DIFFERENT. THIS WAS NOT A LOCAL INDEPENDENT TECH LIKE THE OTHERS. THIS WAS AN 'OFFICIAL' LG TECH FROM OUT OF TOWN. HE DIDN'T CONDUCT ANY DIAGNOSTICS. HE WATCHED ALONG WITH ME THE SAME LOW WATER PROBLEM AS THE INDEPENDET TECHS AND HE SAW THE UNWASHED RESULTS OF MY LAST LOAD. HE HAD SEVERAL EXCUSES AS TO WHY THIS WAS HAPPENING, MOST OF WHICH HE BLAMED ON THE FEDERAL GOVERNMENT'S ENERGY SAVING REGULATIONS. HE CONCLUDED THAT THERE WAS \"NOTHING THAT COULD BE DONE TO REMEDY THE PROBLEM\" AND HE SUGGESTED USING THE \"WATER PLUS\" BUTTON WHICH IN MY CASE ADDS AN INSIGNIFICANT AMOUNT OF ADDITIONAL WATER TO THE TUB. WHEN I TOLD HIM THAT HIS 'SOLUTION' WAS NOT ACCEPTABLE AND THAT I INTENDED TO GET LG TO TAKE THE MACHINE BACK, HE SAID \"LG WON'T TAKE THE MACHINE BACK\".\nI QUICKLY MADE A CALL TO LG FACTORY SERVICE CENTER AND SPOKE TO A SUPERVISOR BY THE NAME OF CALVIN WHO CONFIRMED WHAT THE TECH HAD OFFERED TO ME. ACCORDING TO LG, THERE IS NOTHING WROMNG WITH THE UNIT AND THEY WILL NOT TAKE IT BACK. I WILL BE DOING RESEARCH AS TO WHETHER OR NOT LEMON LAWS APPLY TO WASHING MACHINES.\nMY ADVICE TO ANY POTENTIAL BUYERS OF LG PRODUCTS INCLUDING THIS ONE IS \"BUYER BEWARE\". THIS IS NOT AN HONORABLE COMPANY. DO NOT PURCHASE THIS PRODUCT OR ANY OF THE WATER SAVING TOP LOADING LG WASHERS THAT MAY USE THE SAME DEFECTIVE PARTS. BAD BAD BUSINESS.\nPS:IF ANYTHING AS BENIGN AS A QUARTER FALLS OUT OF A PANTS POCKET, IT MAY MAKE SWISS CHEESE OUT OF A PERFECTLY GOOD (IN MY CASE NEW) PAIR OF BLUE JEANS (TWICE).", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4699, "id": 190952, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 684, "len_tokens": 832, "text": "Fridge arrived well packaged with foam around entire unit inside cardboard box.  Box was skidded and banded so it wouldn't move and had a cardboard cone on top that said no stacking and prevented further stacking during shipment.\n\nFridge is being used in our finished basement where we have cabinets and countertop sunk back into wall.  Fridge sits neatly between 2 cabinets and underneath the countertop.  I have less than the 1/5\" recommended space on both sides available for venting so I put a grille in the back wall to allow the fridge to draw cooling air from the unfinished storage space on the backside of the wall.  It is imperative to allow enough space around the unit for venting purposes or you will burn out the compressor prematurely.\n\nAssembly was easy.  Just had to tighten some screws to get the handle on.  Had to adjust the leveling legs to get it to fit flush within undercounter cabinet space.  This was quick and easy.  I just had to initially loosen with some pliers and then turn by hand.  Rubber boots on legs helped avoid any scratching on my laminate flooring as I slid into place.  This is designed for can storage so it does not lend itself as nicely to beer and water bottles.  The shelving can be changed to different levels so I moved one of the shelves to allow a layer of standing bottles to go in while still having plenty of can storage.\n\nAfter allowing to sit for a day (compressor oil needs to settle), I turned it on.  I set to lowest setting of 38F to see if and how quickly it would reach set point.  Cooled to set point, down from ambient temperature, within 1 hour .  Fluctuates regularly by +/- 1 or 2 degrees.  Stocked with 12 cans and bottles and it quickly came down to setpoint in under 20 minutes.  I imagine that if you packed with room temperature cans it might take an hour or so to come down to temperature.\n\nThe inside light is a fluorescent blue, similar to the controller lights, and is very stylish.  Light is either on all the time or off all the time.  It does not come on when you open the door.  I will likely only turn it on when entertaining since it is kind of cool looking.  The stainless steel door, handle and front return grille along with the glass door are very stylish.\n\nThe settings can quickly and easily be toggled between F and C.\n\nThe major reasons for picking this fridge when doing my research were;\n- Correct size for my under counter installation\n- Fully viewable glass door\n- Large 148 can storage volume\n- Front air intake to accommodate under counter installation\n- SOUND, SOUND, SOUND\n\nThe reviews on this item mostly stated that the noise was low.  Since this was going into an area where we would be listening to music, entertaining, or most importantly watching tv/movies on our projector screen, I did not want an obtrusive noise cycling on and off.  Although not completely quiet, and how could it be since there is a compressor that needs to run, it is very quiet.  I am very happy with how little noise is coming off of this thing.  I might have heard it cycle on once during my 4 or 5 hours of watching football and I have no doubt it cycled more than that while I was down there.  With nothing else on in the room I can hear a low hum.\n\nIt is not the cheapest fridge ($649) in the marketplace but it met all of my criteria and was well worth the investment.  The only remaining question is the durability.  Has only been running for 1 week so we'll see how it holds up over time.\n\nUPDATE 12/15/14: Over 1 year in and still working great.\n\nUPDATE 3/10/17:  Over 3 years in and still working great.  Apparently I got the only good one ever made based on all the other reviews or I'm the only one that installed it correctly.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4700, "id": 191900, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 683, "len_tokens": 831, "text": "I owned the Electrolux EW23BC85KS counter depth french door refrigerator for four years.  I would think the issues apply to both wave and IQ touch models.\n\nShort version of this review:\nDo not buy this appliance.  If interested in another Electrolux refrigerator, I would be very wary if the ice maker is similar to the one in this unit. I had issues with the ice maker for 3 of the 4 years I owned this unit. The ice maker would leak and/or stop producing ice very often. The warranty company serviced it twice. The second time, they decided the unit was NOT REPAIRABLE and sent us a check for $3000 to replace it. I'll be honest here. I was relieved when they said that. My warranty expires in about 10 months and I was dreading have to pay for all of these repairs myself.\n\nThe good:\n- No problems with the compressor. Freezer was always at 0F, fridge at 37F.\n\n-There was what I called the \"beer drawer\" that kept at 33F. I thought that was fantastic. Beers and sodas were that much better.  However, refrigerators at a lower price point put this into a separate door below the french doors (look at the Samsung models) and are almost $1000 less.\n\n- I really liked the ice that the machine produced. They were dome-shaped. The sliver-shaped ice that other machines made would tend to \"bunch up\" at your mouth when drinking a beverage, preventing the liquids from entering your mouth (I know this sound silly). But the dome-shaped ice from this fridge prevented that from happening.\n\n- For it being only a 22.6 cu ft fridge, I found that it fit a lot of stuff. Maybe it was the placement of the shelves that we chose, but I didn't feel that it was \"that small.\" I could fit 5 gallons of milk on the bottom left-hand side of the unit. I think that is really good for that size fridge!\n\n- There was never any build-up of frost in the unit (expect for when the freezer door broke)\n\nNow for the bad:\n- After the 2nd year, the ice maker began having a leak. Water would drip down from the ice maker and out the dispenser. This would happen slowly, but about once/week, I would wake up in the morning to a puddle of water in the door dispenser.\n\n- Around that same time, the ice maker began to have trouble producing ice. It would work great for about a week, and then it would just stop making ice, even though the tray was empty. I would turn off the ice maker entirely, wait about 8 hours and then turn it back on, and then it would create ice again.\n\n- I got service for the ice maker problems last year. The tech fixed it, but it started to leak water into the dispenser after 6 months. This latest visit discovered that the ice maker (which is a separate unit) dislodged over time from the fridge wall - a common problem - which meant the cooler air from the fridge made its way into the ice maker - not good. As for the ice, a gear which churned it out broke - it was cheap plastic, and according to the knowledgeable service tech, very common.\n\nAnd the ugly:\n- \"Something\" happened to the freezer door. It no longer closes. I pulled out all the freezer trays, but I cannot see what the problem is. The service tech mentioned something happened in the back wall of the machine which caused the wall to bubble out, and dislocate the shelf. The door no longer seals. This resulted in a frost buildup inside the unit.\n\n- At the same time, the ice maker started to only produce crushed ice into the dispenser, no matter the setting.\n\n- We paid for the 4-year warranty on this appliance to cover repairs. After the technician came to check on it again last week, it was deemed \"unfixable\" and the warranty company sent me check to replace the unit.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4701, "id": 197684, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 572, "len_tokens": 819, "text": "I'm so ANGRY that GE would use this marketing/sales 'Gimmick' to justify TRIPPING the price of a good water filter just to STOP ALL COMPETITION!!!!  SHAMEFUL!\nI own a new GE Profile Series refrigerator.  (PFE 28K..)  We enjoy the in-door water and ice dispenser with auto sensing and the display showing the Ozs. fill and, AT FIRST, the 'Countdown' timer for water filter replacement.  When the timer showed \"Replace Water Filter\" and \"Days Remaining\", I ASSUMED this was based on some quantifiable, diagnostic new feature built into the water filter..........  IT IS NOT !!!!!!!!\nIs the filter good?  Yes, it is EXACTLY the same as the GE RPWF filter EXCEPT they put an RFID tag on the back!!!\nWhat benefit does the RFID tag provide?\n-Does it help the filter measure percent of filter contamination?  NO, IT DOES NOT!\n-Perhaps it measures the pressure drop as the filter becomes more clogged, alerting the owner to the problem.  NO, IT DOES NOT!\n-Does it show a potential failure of the filter media, alerting the owner?  NO, IT DOES NOT!\n-How about leak detection, preventing water damage to the refrigerator?  IT DOES NOT!\nThen WHY is the RFID tag on the back of each filter....?????\nFOUR reasons:  1-Run a SIMPLE countdown timer (worth about 50 cents),  2-Turns on the \"OVERDUE\" light, REGARDLESS of the level of TRUE contamination of the filter.  3-Uses filter 'Serial number' identification to STOP the CUSTOMER from simply removing the RFID tag from the back of an old filter using the tag for a 'Non-RFID' tagged filter and PREVENTS the CUSTOMER from saving money!  4-MAIN REASON get the customer to PAY M-U-C-H more for each filter than it is worth and buy filters ONLY from GE!!!!  NO competition, a MONOPOLY!\n----Imagine if the car companies did that!  You could ONLY buy tires from your local dealer for your make and model of car!\n\nIs there a way around this SCAM?  YES.\n1-Locate the 'Blank' filter by-pass plastic piece sent with your GE Profile Series refrigerator (found this from another reviewer noting there was an RFDI tag on the back of the by-pass).\n2-Locate the label \"BACK  This side must face inward\" and peel it off.  (see the picture)\n3-Remove the RFID tag under the label.\n4-Open the water filter housing cover inside the refrigerator.\n5-Place the RFID tag over the 'FCC'  label on the back inside the filter housing near the screw, hold in place by re-using the label you peeled off  the 'Blank' filter by-pass.  (see picture)\nNOW you can install ANY water filter compatible with GE RPWF  (NOT 'E'), saving from $20 to $30+ each!!\n--NOTE: 1-This fix will turn OFF the countdown feature but WILL leave ON the Oz. fill and 'Auto-Fill' features.  2-The front panel will now show \"NOT FILTERING\"  when you fill a container with water or ice (even though you installed a new filter).  This additional insult to the CUSTOMER can be simply overridden by: A) Removing the two screws (inside the upper opening of the dispenser in the door) holding the display on the door.  B) Removing the circuit board connectors  C) Removing the Torx screws holding the circuit board to the display.  D) Placing a small rectangular piece of black tape over the \"NOT\" word on the display.  (See Picture) E) Reassemble.\n\nThis 15 minute 'Scam Work Around' will save you from $20 to $30+ each time you replace the filter", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4702, "id": 198827, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 710, "len_tokens": 877, "text": "The machine works great.\nI would have given it 5 stars if not\nfor a few things....\n\nI think for the price, it's a good deal, but there are some\nmajor safety issues that you should note, especially if you have\nkids running around wanting to get near it.\n\nSafety Issue #1-\nThe claw has sharp pointed metal spikes that have no protection from fingers.\nWarn kids to stay away or there will be no shaved ice. It's worked for me.\nYou can't be too careful with this thing.\n\nYou don't want to take ice out of the freezer and immediately use it.\nYour ice will be too cold and brittle, and most likely crack the second you\ntry to use it in the machine.\nThey key is to \"temper\" the ice, meaning when you pull it out of the freezer,\nlet it sit at room temperature for about 10 minutes. This really helps. Don't bring it outside in the heat.\nIt will not temper right, and the shaved ice will be mushy.\nIf you store ice in a cooler, that works too.\nLeave it in the container it's frozen in while tempering.\nTempered ice has a nice clear glass-like appearance around the outer parts of the ice.\nThe middle will still be white/opaque.\n\nSafety Issue #2-\nI don't like that there's no included shield around the ice while it's spinning.\nIt has proved problematic because if your ice cracks and breaks off, it goes flying.\nOuch. It hurts when it lands on your foot. : /\nIf your face is anywhere near it, you are risking the obvious. Keep your face away from\nthe ice when it's spinning.\n\nSafety Issue #3-\nThe Blade that shaves the ice has no shield either.\nI'm not a moron, and know to be careful, but accidents happen,\nand this seems like one that could easily happen at some point if\nyou get distracted.\nAlways start with no blade shaving the ice, and slowly twist the knob to\nstart the shaving.\n\nSafety Issue #4-\nThe bottom portion is made of plastic, which doesn't\nmake a lot of sense. The rest of the machine is heavy metal.\nI move it around my house for parties and driveway fun.\nI'm worried that it will crack or break at some point while I'm carrying it,\nor eventually crack under pressure from weight of the metal.\nIt's not that easy to just lift the part of the machine\nthat's metal. You have an exposed blade to watch out for.\n\nThere are many suggestions I've read in various places. They may or may not work, but thought\nI'd pass along....\n\nThere are some theories on the best way to freeze ice:\n-Some say add a tablespoon of sugar to each container you freeze. -Sticky sugar ice all over the machine? Not for me\n-Some say to slowly freeze your ice at 30 degrees and leave it for 3 days without ever opening the freezer door.-Not practical for recreational user\n\nI didn't use the included foot pedal on my first run.\nIt's kind of an art, and when you're building your mountain of fluff, it really\nmakes it more difficult to have to stop and start, pushing the on/off switch.\nTaking your hand away from either holding the cup or molding the ice with your other hand\ndoesn't help your cause, trust me.\nThere's only 1 speed, and if you haven't mastered it, you'll see how much more difficult it is.\n\nOverall, the machine works. It's not something you want kids around though.\nWith trial and error practice, you can replicate Hawaiian Shaved Ice.\nYes, the fluffy snow-like kind, but you have to practice.\nGetting the blade at just the right spot on the\nice, and tempering, it works, but it might take you\na few tries to get it right, maybe more.\nIt's a fun challenge either way.\n\nWatch some videos of the stores in Hawaii making\nit. That is my ultimate goal. : )\n\nTrue Hawaiian ice is fluffy snow-like with no trace gritty ice.\nIt melts in your mouth, and your syrup does not melt the ice when you pour it on,\nnor does it end up in the bottom like a snow cone.\n\nI hope this helps!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4703, "id": 208217, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 694, "len_tokens": 813, "text": "Not much to review here. It's a brass orifice.  The five stars is because I was able to get it on Amazon and install it myself, saving a bunch of money and time.  Allow me to also give one star to LG for not including what is probably a $1 item for them with my $1,100 dryer (as well as not making it easy to find the LP orifice part number in their documentation), and another one star to Home Depot for not stocking a necessary part for the dryer they sold me, especially in a store that is in close proximity to a large number of propane users.\n\nNow to the installation in my DLGX8001. Before I received the orifice, I poked around on Youtube looking for how hard of a job this would be.  I ran across one video that looked like it would be a snap if you went in from the back by removing the dryer vent tube.  Let me tell you right now that having done this according to the instructions that came with the orifice, going in from the back would be a big mistake.  Getting the orifice off and replacing it would be doable, but the video did not discuss the requirement to screw down a vertical teflon screw. Trust me, you would never be able to loosen that screw from the rear.  I hope that was not a necessary step for his model, because he probably blew up his dryer if he didn't adjust it. There was also another video that made it look very easy, but what it didn't explicitly show was that they had removed the entire inner front panel and the drum, which made it very easy to get to the orifice and adjustment screw.\n\nI decided to follow the instructions that came with the orifice, which were ALMOST correct.  There are two additional screws on the front panel that needed to be removed (it's obvious which ones).  I had no trouble following the directions. Be SURE you keep track of which screws go where, because there are two stainless screws that get exposed to water and they need to be put back in the right place.  Note to cat owners - do NOT place them neatly in order on the floor, then walk away and expect them to be where you left them.  Just sayin'...\n\nThe only trouble I had with this install is that there really is very little open space provided by the opening in the inner front panel for replacing the orifice and closing down the adjustment screw.  You will need a fairly short open end 10mm wrench for the orifice. I recommend tilting the dryer back to get your hand in there easier. Don't forget to use proper sealant on the threads (there was sealant on the old orifice's threads). I don't remember if the replacement orifice came with any sealant (I had some anyway that was approved for use with LPG).\n\nOnce the orifice is replaced, it's time for the really hard part. The large teflon screw is extremely hard to get any torque on with a screwdriver, and it is HARD to break loose if you can't get much torque on it (at least on my unit it was - it could depend on whether you get Hulk Hogan or a little old lady on the assembly line that day). I could not get sufficient torque on my stubby flat blade screwdriver because you essentially have to reach up through the opening to grab the handle and use a reverse grip. If you have a wide-bladed screwdriver with a short blade and long handle, you may be able to loosen it.  I ended up having to find a thin piece of steel about 2\" by 1\" that would fit in the slot, and I got a lot more torque by putting one side of it in the slot and turning.\n\nSo in summary, taking the unit apart and reassembling it is easy-peasy - replacing the orifice and turning the valve will probably occupy the majority of your time spent on this.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4704, "id": 209057, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 695, "len_tokens": 856, "text": "Got these as a christmas gift (opened early since my dad loves my cooking and wanted to make it easier for me since I cook for him).\n\nThe Good: Set it without anything in the pan other than a little oil and it'll get to that temp in 10 seconds or less as far as I can tell (with their pans, of course).  Deep frying is simple to do (not sure what everyone else is complaining about, and I'll explain later what I think their problem is).  Because of all involved, I can easily clean a counter top that's flat than a stove top after frying something.  Can take them anywhere you have power (cook something smelly outside to keep people inside happy and/or piss off that annoying neighbor that doesn't know how to cook anything but her garbage bags, from the smell of things, is a plus).  If you don't have a stove top, this is a must, and perfect for anyone in college.  Easy to clean everything.  Practically rinse it with scalding hot water right after you empty the contents and wipe dry with a clean towel and you're done (if you wash pans after every use, in stead of that, they're going to turn to crap no matter how good they are)\n\nTHE BAD: Nothing is perfect, had eggs stick to them twice on me, but after minor work with a plastic spatula they came off without any casualties, but that can happen on any non-stick since I had one before.  The temperature settings are never going to be that accurate when liquids/volume cooking is involved, as I consider calling it.  Pans can slide easily off of the surface if you lightly bump them (must be the technology, almost felt air hockey-ish when some olid was under the pan I didn't notice, while moving some food around.  The heavier the pan, the flimsier the handle seems to feel on the 16 inch we upgraded to. It doesn't feel like it'll come apart as much as it may bend if you hold it far back on the handle every time, but that's the largest frying pan I've owned, so who knows, could be me.  Last but not least, you will be confused on prep and cook time, because this will throw a major curve ball at you, at first. I was skeptical and burnt some oil a couple times on heat up time lol.\n\nin Closing: People complain about the frying.  I deep fry in the saute pan or another I have like it.  So far, I got a great crispy (yet overcooked, due to my first deep frying attempt ever) chicken, since I bread with egg, flower x2.  Still tasted great.  Second time came out softer when I worked less on the flower and cooking time.  I also tried 350, which gave me a finished softer exterior, great for wings and pizza topping.  That's a 25 degree difference.  PEOPLE, wake up.  There's no way you're going to deep fry in anything in a timely manner unless it's an actual deep fryer.  Even then, they're not consistent (chalk up all those days you order wings and wonder why they aren't like last time...  yeah.  Those are industrial grade fryers too),\nI feel the problem people are having with these, like any other cook set, is they expect it to cook for them.  Being a chef and a cook (as immature as I am in that field) is like being an artist, and no artist wants their canvas to paint for them.  Never leave what you're cooking, even if it's a pizza.  I stand there while deep frying and take out piece by piece.  If you want convenience... order out lol.\n\nThis rocks at steak/searing too, but I recommend using a black iron pan because it gives a different texture and flavor.  Ours works on it, but I heard it's not good to use, so I'm not sure if they have one themselves or not.  I haven't had to deal with customer service, been happy these past three weeks though, cooking too much to lose the weight I need lol", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4705, "id": 211060, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 710, "len_tokens": 877, "text": "this is a perfect washer for a small apartment like I once had, or an \":emergency\" washer for when you are waiting, as I am now to get my washer repaired.  I am waiting for a part on my automatic, and let me tell you, this little washer is the best back up emergency washer I have ever used.  I don't go to laundromats, i used to do my clothes by hand in the bathroom sink and suffer rashes from touching detergent, but I was bought this little washer, and I never had to do that again.  Realize, that it is NOT an automatic, nor is there a pump and it can be a pain in the rear to empty into buckets and fill with buckets, but it sure beats hand washing.  I currently use my panda daily, today i got the part for the waher and it was the wrong one, so i will probably use this every day in the back yard with a garden hose.  This is a very very antique kind of washer that washes things very very differently.  You use the same washwater for the entire laundry, just adding a dose of soap for each new load.  It does use very little water.  you can rinse it whie it spins if you want, or in the washtub, whichever you prefer.  it's no harder to use than a wringer washer, and it cleans very very well too, as you can agitate a load for 4 hours if that's what you choose to do.  Washing powder works much better than liquids in this, i use cheer.  But if you expect a washer that washes rinses and spins all by itself don't buy this washer.  When used correctly, they can be the best washers actually, but it's an eyesore to be flooding the backyard.  I will say this:  If this little washer broke, i'd definitely buy another one.  it's so light i can lift it with two fingers yet it pulverizes the hell out of dirt like the old washers did with washing powder,  It's very powerful, but it is shoddily made.  already i've broken a knob so i have to use a butterknife to make it spin, and I've broken the right side where i could run water where it spins.  They need a revisor to do the manual, whoever did it did not have good command of the english language.  They don't even mention putting in water on the right side, which is a spray and very effective rinse.  Mine broke, but the washer and spinner still works, as i'm using it daily for my laundry.  i start with whites and i agitate them a good hour in a half cup of cheer because i can only use cold water with the hose and i'm in maine and the cold water is very cold here.  DO THE TOWELS LAST or you will have lint all over your clothes.  oh yes, the lint trap broke after three uses.  As much as  i love my emergency washer, it is very shoddily made, so face it, it's not really for washing your clothes every day unless you have no alternative.  I have to give it four stars i think the fact that i can agitate for as long as i want warrants that, but i would not buy this unless the only alternative was the bathroom sink and your hands or a laundromat where they wash dirty diapers.  Shoddily made as it is, I will buy another one when it breaks.  Funny how some things are made so badly but we'd buy them again they deliver so much convienience.  Right now I'd be using the bathroom sink, honest to god if i didn't have this for back up.  I will NOT use bed bug infested laundromats where diapers and whatever else is washed at.  gross, and you don't know what diseases they had either.  For years handwashing did not bother me one bit, i did it every day, washed everything in the sink and hung it up inside, but i'd started to get hives from the soap powder being constantly on my hands, so i will not speak badly of this machine, just don't expect anything fancy at all", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4706, "id": 211176, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 742, "len_tokens": 889, "text": "I live in an apartment complex where washer/dryer hookups are non-existent and you have to use their laundromat facilities; well, they recently raised the prices and it costs $6.75 to do one load of laundry from start to finish.  Thats highway robbery and doing laundry every month was costing me an arm and a leg; I decided getting a portable washer was the way to go and that itd pay for itself in the matter of months.  After doing a ton of research and watching a bunch of Youtube videos, I settled on this unit and Im so glad I did.  Yes, this sort of washing machine requires more work and babysitting than your traditional large washing machines but Im more than willing to put the effort in if it means not having to go to the laundromat and being able to do laundry in the comfort of my own home.  I truly love this machine and if it were to stop working on me Id buy a replacement without batting an eyelash.  Below is my start to finish routine that Ive found works best for me (the instructions that come with the machine aren't great at all); this may seem like a lot but once you get the routine down its not a big deal at all:\n\n1. Hook all hoses up and start filling the machine with water (DO NOT fill past the lint catcher thats in the machine or you're going to have a big puddle on your floor).\n2. Add a SMALL amount of detergent; Im talking like half of a teaspoons worth.  This machine produces a lot of suds and if you add too much detergent you're going to have to do a ton of rinse cycles.  I also add my scent boosting product at this time.\n3. After adding the detergent I turn on the wash cycle just for 15-20 seconds to get the detergent to mix well with the water.\n4. Add clothing.  This machine can hold a decent amount; I can wash 2-3 pairs of leggings and 2-3 shirts/blouses per load (depending on weight); I also wash my towels in this machine without a problem (I do one large towel and one hand towel per load).\n5. Once the water is filled to the level of the lint catcher I put in the separate lint catcher that I bought here from Amazon (link below) because the built in lint catcher in this machine is totally and completely worthless.  The separate lint catcher floats on top of the water and catches a ton of lint (I have 2 cats, so this is a necessity).  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NR295FY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00\n6. Close the lid and set the timer (I usually do 5-12 minutes; all depends on how soiled the items are).\n7. Once the wash cycle is done I turn the dial to drain and start loading the items into the spin dryer (I usually fit half a load at a time into the spin dryer) and spin them out for about a minute while the machine is draining the water; once the spin cycle is done I put the items back into the washer for the rinse cycle.\n8. Start filling the washer with water again and add fabric softener.\n9. Once the water is at the proper level I put the lint catcher back in and turn the washer on for another 5-12 minutes for the rinse cycle.\n10. When the rinse cycle ends, turn the dial to drain and transfer the items to the spin dryer and spin dry for about 2 minutes or until water stops draining from the hose.\n11. Take items out and hang up to dry fully; the spin dryer on this machine does such a great job of removing water that most items dry completely in 2-3 hours.\n12. When Im done doing all laundry I lift the machine up onto my kitchen counter and turn the dial to drain to get all of the water out of the machine (you need gravity for this); the machine is really lightweight, so its not difficult to lift it.\n13. Once all water is drained I use a paper towel to dry the inside of the washing & spin dryer tubs; then I leave the lids to both sections open overnight to make sure the machine gets to air dry properly.\n\nHope this information helps you!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4707, "id": 211555, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 683, "len_tokens": 871, "text": "The facts:\nUnit arrives in a well packaged box, the outer-box does indicate 'washing machine' on exterior. I know that previous reviews state that the box was generic and only displayed the brand name; there must have been a change as mine arrived with the brand name and 'washing machine' written on the outer-box.\n\nUpon opening, the Panda sits sandwiched between two styrofoam pieces to insulate during shipment. Inside are some pamphlets concerning warranty and instruction literature.\n\nQuoted to wash 6-7 lbs, and dry 3-4 lbs.\n\nMy experience:\nYes, the unit smells like plastic upon first using. The smell dissipates quickly after a couple uses, this has no affect on clothing smell.\n\nThe washer is a lot bigger than expected, the agitator is VERY powerful--clothing easy tangles with other items during wash. Using net-bags will just tangle the bags together, and in my experience it ruins the bags to the point where it breaks the threading. In most cases, when the net-bags are used, the zippers open and turn inside out. The washer works very well for small-regular items, things like jeans, shirts and sweaters. Larger items like towels, bedding and small-blankets are a different story.\n\nSince the bigger items have less space to move about, towels and larger cloths tend to bundle up--only cleaning the outside. I usually stop mid cycle and turn the towels inside out to get an even wash.\n\nThe dryer extracts water very well. Although the specs say that it fits only 3-4 lbs worth of clothing, I've found that I can put all of the items from the washer into the dryer. On a normal cycle, this is what I wash: (size small)\n\n-2 button ups\n-1 t-shirt\n-2 pairs of socks\n-2 pairs of underwear\n\nAll of the items get a thorough washing and drying and usually takes around 20 minutes for a 'full cycle'.\n\nNote worthy experiences:\n-The lint trap works, but not as good as I would like. Lots of lint is left behind while being drained. Lint will show up when articles fully dry. I noticed that if I fill the drum 3/4 of water, the lint trap is able to capture more lint (but not all).\n\n-I can wash queen size sheets, but duvets push the limit. Difficult to wash, even more difficult to fit into spin dryer.\n\n-An iron or steamer is necessary, as most clothing will dry with wrinkles throughout.\n\n-If too much soap was used, and suds did not fully drain, place a little fabric softener with water diffuses all of soap.\n\n-Unit is not too loud, but I have it sitting in the foam board is shipped in on top of two towels. (Just so my neighbors don't complain.)\n\n-In order for faster turn around times from each wash, I use a pre-filled bucket. (The hose that came with the unit, takes too much time and bottle necks each cycle.)\n\n-My normal regime follows:\n1. Wash\n2. Drain\n3. Spin\n4. Wash @ 6 mins with fabric softener\n5. Drain\n6. Spin\n\nI've had this unit for 3 months now and works very well with no problems. My only gripe is the lint issue, seems to get my nose itchy with the lint all over the apartment. Nothing too crazy though, I'm happy with this purchase.\n\nRoom for improvement that would earn 5 stars:\n- Ability to change the agitate levels. Currently it only has one speed, and some articles need a more gentle cycle--so it would be nice to have a choice to have different levels of speed\n- The timers aren't 'real'. What I mean by that, is that if I turn the dials to 10 minutes, but then decide it should rather be 5--the cycle will continue for the full 10 minutes.\n- The water hose that hooks up to the faucet could use a better design or a reinforcement band to help it stay on--especially when hot water is used.\n- Sometimes I find screws that fell off of the machine, but don't know where they came from. Everything still seems to work.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4708, "id": 217376, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 693, "len_tokens": 895, "text": "I purchased this Fridge in January, 2014, even after I read the reviews which were not good.  I thought, really how bad can this be....  This really needs to come with a Buyer Beware sticker.\n\nFor some reason I thought the warranty of this unit was for 2 years, it is not only 1.  We went 9 Months with out the water line hitched up.  It worked great and I loved it.  Finally we decided that the reason why we went with an in door ice machine and water dispenser was to use it.  So we finally hitched it up.  That was the worst mistake we could have made.  It started making Ice just fine and was fine for the 1st 3-4 months.  I went to one day to place ice in a glass and pushed the button to have the ice dispensed.  It made noise but then didn't work.  When we tried to pull out the tray that keeps the ice, it wouldn't move.  After forcing it and trying to get it dispense the ice, we were finally able to pull the tray out.  Low and behold to ice maker that was above it fell down into the ice and auger.  Once we pressed to button to get ice, it jammed and that was why we had an issue with pulling out the tray.  I called tech support, who was nice enough to sell me an extended service plan even though I was out of that window ($326 for 3 years) and they dispatched the local repair guy.  He came out and ordered and installed a new ice maker (valued at $400).  Problem solved, right.....\n\nWRONG!\n\nAfter the new ice machine was installed it worked great for another few months.  One day, it started to make noise from the fan inside.  I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it, and called for service.  The same repair person came back out to look at it, and found that it was freezing up inside.  He rescheduled to come back out, with help to tip the fridge and check the drain line for blockage.  He came out, snaked down through the drain line and didn't find anything.  2 weeks later, I had the same noise.  Called back and rescheduled another appointment.  This time it became progressively louder until it just shut down.  We thought yay, no more noise.  Everything was froze up and it wouldn't make ice anymore.  Not a problem we have enough ice right now, at least the noise had stopped.  Well, no noise, no cooling so everything that was froze up melted.  Right out the door and onto my carpeted rug!  Dumped the Ice to prevent more water from running out.  3 Days later, it started making ice again.  So here is the cycle we are in now...  3-4 days of making ice, Starts to get noisy on day 4, noise will progressively get louder day 5,6 & 7.  On day 8 it'll shut down, and defrost on day 9, 10, 11.  Day 12 the ice machine will kick back on and it will repeat the process.\n\nCan you say fed up!\n\nI have contacted tech support numerous times.  The local repair man doesn't know what is wrong with it, and has washed his hands with it.  So tech tried to get someone else to come \"fix\" it.  They were supposed to come this morning.  I got the call and was talking with the guy, to only find out they do not service anything another company has \"fixed\".  They were the only ones left to do the work.\n\nI have made a complaint to Frigidaire.  They have now decided to replace the Fridge.  I have informed them, I do not want another Fridge, just my money back.\n\nI am DONE with this aggravation!\n\nSo, Unless you want a big Headache and a Fridge that makes noise and doesn't make or keep Ice half the time.  Save your Money.  This Fridge is not worth the Price tag for something that doesn't work.\n\nWe are now looking to purchase a New Fridge, and guess what....\n\nIt will not be a Frigidaire!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4709, "id": 218268, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 687, "len_tokens": 801, "text": "I line dry my clothes, so four years ago I purchased a Charming Spinner for $230 and used it for three years. I was impressed with the stainless steel construction, both on the outside and the spinner basket. It seemed very sturdy.  I loved this spinner, because it drastically cut drying times from several hours to about two. That was why I was willing to put up with several flaws in its design. It was tall and narrow, so one load of wash made three loads in the spinner. Even after carefully following loading instructions, if the load wasn't balanced just right, it would not spin up to speed. I'd have to stop and reload everything. When it was balanced, the spinner shook and wobbled across the floor. It was also incredibly loud. It started off loud, it ran loud, and it braked with a horrible screeching sound. I put up with all of that because my clothes dried so much faster.\n\nThe fatal flaw was the locking mechanism. To turn the spinner on you slid a lever which locked the lid and started it spinning. To turn it off, you slowly moved the lever back, engaging the brake. Once the spinning slowed enough that you could slide it to the off position it would unlock. But the lock was plastic and got stuck often. I would pry it open, worried every time that I would break it. After three years I finally did. Why build a spinner out of materials meant to last a long time, but make a critical component out of plastic? I wasn't willing to replace it with that major flaw, so I spent over a year without a spin dryer.\n\nAfter drying clothes in the house for the second winter in a row, I was frustrated with all day winter drying times.  I started looking at spinners again and found Laundry Alternative, which carried two spinners, the Spin Dryer with a design similar to the Charming Spinner, and the Nina Soft. Both sold for about $165 including shipping. I hesitated on the Nina Soft, though. The plastic construction concerned me, and the rpm was only 1800, compared to 3200 rpm of the other spinner. After watching what few videos I could find and asking questions by email which were answered promptly, I bought the Nina Soft Spin Dryer, and I'm very happy I did.\n\nEvery issue has been addressed in this design. First, it is a bit wider, making it easier to load. I follow the instructions for loading and have not once needed to reload it to balance the clothes. It holds more, so the same washer load can be spun in just two loads. The locking mechanism starts the spinner, but it is completely different from the other design. To start it you just close the lid. To stop it, you pull a latch. I can't believe how quiet this thing runs. I sometimes forget it's running because I can't hear it. It may shake just a bit as it spins up to speed (not always) but it does not wobble while running because the of its wider profile and the three large anti-slip feet it sits on. Because of how well it runs the plastic construction is not a problem. I can see this spinner lasting many more years than the other design.\n\nMy final concern about the Nina Soft was the lower rpm. It does not remove as much water as the higher rpm spinners I use the same washer and the same container to catch the water, so I can tell it removes only about half as much. Drying times are longer than they were with the spinner, but still significantly reduced over just line drying. In warmer weather they'll dry even faster.\n\nOverall I am incredibly happy with the Nina Soft Spin Dryer. The improved design at such a good price far outweighs the fact that it removes less water. I would recommend it to anyone. I would also recommend buying it directly from Laundry Alternative. Their customer service is very responsive and shipping was fast.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4710, "id": 222395, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 661, "len_tokens": 890, "text": "I just got this little washer a week ago. I had read reviews (for days) before I finally decided to purchase it, and I'm glad I did.\n\nI strongly suggest you watch this YouTube video on HE Top-Load Washers...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5hD_iuwn9o. It will explain a lot about how these types of washers work. My mother had a Portable Kenmore washer back in the early 90's, and I was half expecting my new machine to be the same. Boy was I surprised. The first thing I noticed was that the tub didn't completely fill. This worried me at first, and I was really skeptical about how clean the cloths would actually get. Secondly, these machines have no agitator, which made me twice as skeptical. To my utter amazement though, the cloths came out clean and very well rung-out after the spin cycle. Lastly, the instruction manual for this machine SUCKS MONKEY PARTS. It's of NO value at all. So thank the heavens for people who write great reviews and make YouTube videos! If you want to watch a few, just keep in mind that this machine is the exact same model as the Magic Chef 1.6 cu ft. washer. The only difference is the brand name.\n\nThe greatest benefit to having this machine, besides not having to go to the laundromat anymore, is how quiet it is. I remember how loud my mother's portable was in the kitchen, and I was afraid my downstairs neighbors would hear it. I recall the spin cycle being especially loud on the older portables. They would literally wobble across the floor. You had to watch the thing to make sure it didn't find its way out the door and down the steps. Again, I was pleasantly surprised. This machine has a slight vibration, but nothing that would alert anyone to the fact that you are doing laundry directly above their heads.\n\nIf you are planning to get this machine, PLEASE read the review by Michael C. He suggests things that are essential to making this washer work properly. First, you will absolutely need a Y Splitter if you are running this from a kitchen sink. In all the YouTube videos I watched, no one ever mentioned the need for one. YOU WILL NEED IT. When I ran my first load, the washer kept pausing and I had no idea why. After watching it for a while, I realized that even though I selected \"cold\" for the wash cycle, and had only installed the \"cold\" hose, the machine kept trying to pull water from the absent \"hot\" hose, causing the frequent pauses. I'm not a patient person, so I immediately went to Home Depot to purchase a \"Y Washing Machine Mixer Hose\". They didn't have one in stock (I think it's an online only product), but they did have a \"Metal Y Connector\" in the Garden section. It works fabulously and was only $10.\n(http://www.homedepot.com/p/Melnor-2-76-in-Metal-Y-Connector-9000/100178887?MERCH=REC-_-SearchPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-100178887-_-N)\n\nAnother suggestion was getting the Teflon tape. You will need this if you don't want your entire kitchen to get sprayed. I found it at Walmart in the bathroom/faucet section for $0.97. I think they call it \"Faucet threading tape\". It's easy to miss, so look in the faucet section near the shower heads. Because I'd never used it before, I watched another video that explained how to put it on. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uc6BOAF2M1E) This video explains how to apply the tape, how much to use, etc.\n\nThe load capacity will take some time to get used to, but I think I have the hang of it now. Coming from an old large capacity washer, I had to adjust to not having as much space. But, because this washer is so awesome, I totally don't mind splitting my load in half and just running two loads instead.\n\nSo now I am happily washing my cloths at home, in my kitchen. If you are thinking about getting this machine, stop thinking and DO IT.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4711, "id": 222410, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 670, "len_tokens": 850, "text": "My partner and I bought this washing machine because we live in a top-floor apartment with one coin-operated washer and dryer for all of the tenants to share.  We found out after move-in that everyone in the building operates on roughly the same schedule and we needed to time the wash cycle literally down to the minute for fear of annoying the neighbors and getting our clean clothes dumped on top of the dirty dryer.  When we consulted our lease and property manager, we were basically told that we could use something like this as long as it didn't cause any kind of leak and we didn't change any of the piping inside the walls (anything under a kitchen or bathroom cabinet was fair game).\n\nWe looked at the different sizes for this brand but opted for the 1.6 CF size because the wet clothes at the end fit perfectly in a portable dryer that we bought to go with it.  The dryer we got advertises that it can accommodate 9 lbs of wet laundry and the link/specs to that item can be found here: <http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001SUDJIQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1>.  I find that this machine washes an entire work outfit (pair of pants, underwear, socks, long-sleeve shirt, undershirt) and 1-2 additional items depending on size/shape.\n\nThe washer comes with two standard water intake hoses and a faucet adapter (which fit our kitchen sink but not the bathroom sink).  As noted in other review, the machine gives an error message and you could risk burning out the motor if there isn't water pressure going to both intake ports (hot and cold).  If you are going to use the faucet adapter, make sure that it fits your sink and spend $10-15 on a Y-Connector so that you can use one hose/faucet with both ports.\n\nThe washer has about the same footprint as a square laundry basket or hamper.  For this reason, we ended up buying new water hoses with a 90-degree bend at one end so that we can back the machine up to the side of the bathroom sink.  There is only about a 1.5\" gap with the new hoses and the top of the washer is just above counter level.  The drainage hose very conveniently hooks onto the left side of the machine if you are facing it and we just place it in the tub when we start a cycle.  Our bathroom sink drains very well (ie - no clogs) but it didn't drain fast enough for the machine and would have overflowed if we didn't switch the drainage to the tub.\n\nIn the end, we didn't want to sacrifice the convenience of a hard-wired washer so we actually cut the pipes under the sink and added compression t-connectors.  We then added another small length of 0.5\" copper pipe and put on a washing machine shutoff valve similar to this one: <http://www.lowes.com/pd_135578-34146-WMVCOMP+1/2_0__>.  The pipes look and connect the same exact way they did before except there is a hookup on each side that can twist closed when we move out without needing to cap and solder anything.  With this setup the only difference between this and a full-size washer is that we have to remember to place the drain hose in the tub or else our bathroom will flood.  I do want to add as a disclaimer that you shouldn't attempt this unless you (1) have permission and (2) are comfortable enough with plumbing to do proper compression fits that won't leak.  If you haven't done it before, either stick with the faucet adapter or get someone with plumbing experience to help you with pipe hookup because a lot can go wrong.\n\nAccording to the energy guide, this will cost $34/year to run assuming you wash 8 loads of laundry per week.  This is definitely cheaper than the coin-op machine I was using before.  I have also noticed that my tub needs less scrubbing to stay clean because the bleach water from the clothes does the work for me.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4712, "id": 235175, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 678, "len_tokens": 835, "text": "My front loading Frigidaire washer developed mold after several years of use, primarily because I didn't leave the door open for a day or two to dry out as recommended - my bad. I have an excellent mold killer developed after Katrina called MoldStat that can penetrate nearly anything (bleach can't kill mold in wood), but even that stuff could not get mold out of the rubber gasket. Last week after finding another buildup of mold due to debris clogging the drain ports in the gasket, I decided to replace it. I used to be an engineer, very mechanically inclined, but this job nearly got the best of me!\n\nBig Mistake: I tried to replace the gasket without taking the top and front panels off after reading here that it could be done - it was a nightmare trying to get the lip of the new gasket over the metal flange inside the washer. After fighting it for an hour, I gave up, exhausted, with bloody hands and bruises.\n\nMy suggestions from experience:\n\n1. After you tilt the washer to get to the bottom screws, leave it up on a couple scraps of 2 x 4's, makes everything easier to get to.\n\n2. Remove the top and front panels! Gives you much better access to the gasket flange. Have a few scraps of lumber ready for when you remove the front panel - there is an electrical connector that will prevent you from setting the front panel on the ground with it tilted - carefully snip the tip of the wire tie holding the wire harness to the back of the front panel -it sticks out through the flange of the panel (do not attempt to snip it where it wraps around the wires!), then set the panel off to the side on the lumber.\n\n3. Do not use dishwasher soap to lube the flange or gasket - made it so slippery I couldn't get a good grip on anything. I rinsed off the soap, dried out the gasket, then sprayed a garage door lube inside the gasket, let it dry overnight - provided lube inside the gasket without being slippery to the hands. Any sort of spray-on dry lubricant should work.\n\n4. Reinstalling the inner spring that holds the gasket to the inner flange was beyond miserable - the two spacers that came with the gasket were too large, couldn't jam them in place to hold the spring at 12:00. Instead, I got some scrap wood ~ 3/8\" thick, and used a C-clamp to hold the first piece of wood and spring in place at 12:00. Worked my way down both sides using additional pieces of wood and clamps until I got the spring to 7:00 and 2:00, at which point the clamps were preventing the spring from stretching any further, so I removed all the blocks/clamps except for the two at 7:00 and 2:00, then got the rest of the spring in place - was a huge struggle though - had to use every ounce of strength I had to stretch that sucker far enough and roll it over the flange. For some reason at this point the spacers actually fit, used them to slowly get the last bit of the spring installed a few inches at a time.\n\n5. While it's apart, take the time to thoroughly clean the inside of the washer where the detergent/bleach dispenser resides, use cleaner of choice and an old toothbrush - found mold in there too - then reassemble/reinstall the panels. Use a wire tie on the right side wire harness you clipped off in step #2 to hold it in place and prevent it from rubbing on the panel.\n\nBTW, this Frigidaire gasket ($81) is identical to another one sold here under the Kenmore brand for $71, which is the one I bought - part number is the same - \"Kenmore Sears Washer Front Load Door Rubber seal gasket 134515300-KE\". Gave it 5 stars because the product is fine, although the instructions leave a lot to be desired.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4713, "id": 239313, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 717, "len_tokens": 864, "text": "I just finished this repair job yesterday on a Maytag Bravos Quiet Series 300 washer. Here's a few tips to anyone attempting this repair:\n\n1) Complete list of tools needed - putty knife (to depress spring clips), adjustable wrench (for lock nut and to use bearing tool), vice grips (to hold shaft when removing lock nut), pliers (to remove spring clamp on drain hose), 3/8\" drive ratchet, 1/4\" allen socket (for bolt holding rotor bell), 7/16\" socket and extension (for bolt holding basket), 3/8 socket (for bolts holding stator), hammer (to knock out shaft and to use a punch when removing old bearings), phillips head screwdriver (remove screws holding the basket hub and to keep rotor bell from moving when bolting it back down) and finally a large paper clip or stiff wire (to clean out weep hole near inner bearing).\n\nOptional but nice to have - LED headlight (always helps to have more light to see), a roll of shop towels (to soak up water and clean up parts), a block of wood (hit it instead of hitting the shaft during installation to prevent damage).\n\n2) Rent the bearing installation tool online for ~$25 plus shipping back. You can futz around with attempting to make your own with a threaded rod and washers but why risk the bearings being set out of place and having to do the whole job over again to save a few bucks? Hitting the bearings with a hammer to install them also seems like a quick way to ruin them.\n\n3) If your washer has this problem, replace the bearings sooner than later. My washer just started making the \"jet engine\" sound a few weeks ago. When I started this repair and looked at the factory installed bearings, I noticed that they were already significantly corroded. I can only imagine how much more difficult it would be to remove the bearings if I put off the repair for later. I also got lucky and did not have to use the jack trick to remove the basket.\n\n4) The spring clips to remove the washer top are much stronger than expected. You'll need a stiff and strong putty knife to get them to budge.\n\n5) Expect to set aside some time to clean up any mold that has accumulated underneath the wash plate cap, on the bottom of the wash plate, and finally the outer tub itself. It was quite disgusting to see all the black mold hidden in the nooks and crannies on the underside of the wash plate. You'll need some q-tips and some vigorous scrubbing in a sink to get rid of it. I use bleach with every load of whites and keep the washer top open when done washing and mold still accumulated in the washer over the years.\n\n6) Set aside at least 24 hours for the Pliobond adhesive to cure before testing out the washer after the repair. Also be sure not to apply excess adhesive. It'll slowly settle near the shaft and that could risk the whole bed of adhesive ripping off in one piece when the shaft spins. It also helps to keep the area you are working in well-ventilated area when using the adhesive. Pliobond gives off quite a strong smell and isn't healthy to breathe in according to its MSDS.\n\n7) Remove and inspect the drain trap in the inner tube while you have the basket off. I didn't find anything in mine but it only takes a few minutes to remove the cover (two 1/4\" bolts that can be removed with a multibit screwdriver without a bit in it) and check.\n\n8) When putting the washer back together, be sure to fasten the bolts and screws attaching the stator and basket hub in a criss-cross pattern like when you change a wheel on a car. This distributes the attachment force evenly. The Youtube videos of this repair show people attaching bolts on one side and that way risks parts being misaligned.\n\nAll in all, this is not a difficult repair, just a very tedious one. I now understand why labor costs on this repair are so high. If you're getting your spouse to do this repair, be sure to show a lot of appreciation when the repair is done. ", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4714, "id": 243094, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 757, "len_tokens": 867, "text": "Our old washing machine broke a couple of months ago; and, even though we could have fixed it, we decided it was time to go with a new front loader instead. The main reason we wanted front loading machines was because of the space savings when stacked. After a week of research, we settled on either this LG model or the comparable Samsung, based on reading pretty much every review we could find - we settled on the LG because of price.\n\nAside from the fact that these are extremely heavy compared to our old top loaders, the installation was fairly straight forward. The water hoses are a couple of feet longer than a typical washer hose (even other front loaders), which was great for us since we ended up stacking them a few feet from the water inputs. They are also very easy to setup and use.\n\nAt first we were a bit nervous about the height of the machines when stacked, but those fears were completely unfounded. I'm 5'9\" and I can access both the washer and dryer with ease. The washer tub is actually tilted upward to make it easier to access when it's sitting on the floor instead of a stand. As a quick reference, if you're worried about the height, the bottom of the dryer opening sits at 54\" when stacked, the center of the dryer control knob sits at 76\", and the top of the dryer is at 79\".\n\nAside from the obvious space savings, here are the things we've really liked about this washer:\n1) It runs very quietly with no noticeable vibration. I was worried about this after reading reviews for other front loaders, but it hasn't been a problem at all - even with both the washer & dryer stacked and running at the same time.\n2) It gets our clothes at least as clean as our old washer ever did; but it uses a lot less water to do it. (It's supposed to be easier on the clothes too, but I have no way to verify that.)\n3) The controls are intuitive and easy to use.\n4) We can fit an amazing amount in each load. Our old washer was a high capacity top loader, but this thing can probably clean almost twice as many clothes in each load. It is especially nice when it comes time to clean bedding that didn't even fit in the old washer.\n5) I love the load sense feature. This is one of the things you should read the manual to figure out how to use; but it is definitely worth the effort. Basically, it tells you how much detergent you need to add in order to get the clothes clean for that particular load - I use it to tell me when the load is full by just adding clothes until it says I need the full amount of deterget:). It really does eliminate a lot of guess-work.\n\nAs usual, there are some things I wish I could change:\n1) You can't use powder detergent with liquid bleach in the same load. You need to have either powder or liquid for both.\n2) The controls don't remember settings, which can be a bit irritating since we use the same settings 95% of the time. Luckily they are easy to set, but you do need to reprogram it every time you turn it on.\n3) The washer door only opens one way (the hinge is on the left), which is great if that's the way you need it to open. In our case, it opened the wrong way so we had to rearrange the room a bit. Fortunately, the long hoses made it possible to rearrange everything without a lot of extra effort or expense.\n\nAnother thing I had read about the front loaders was that the door needs to be left open between loads. I thought this would be a pain, but it really hasn't been a big deal at all. The manual doesn't actually recommend doing that; but says to periodically run a tub clean cycle (I think it says to do it every month) to eliminate any odor. I figure I'll leave the door open as well just to be safe.\n\nOverall we are extremely pleased with these. I guess time will tell if they hold up as well as our old top loader did, but so far I'm pretty confident that they will. I highly recommend these if you're looking for a new washer and dryer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4715, "id": 245472, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 715, "len_tokens": 842, "text": "I really like this ice maker for the one month I have had it.  I give it only 4 stars because I haven't had it long enough to have experienced any problems keeping it clean or to evaluate possible reliability problems.  So far it does what I wanted it to do.  I also agree with all previous comments.  The cubes are smaller than I would prefer and they do have holes in them.  But the unit is compact, reasonably attractive as an appliance and produces acceptable ice.  I haven't owned any previous stand alone ice makers but I find the quality of the ice acceptable as a substitute for the ice my refrigerator unit (no longer working) used to produce.  I would say the quantity of ice produced is adequate for either a couple or even a family of four.  Ideally you would store the ice made in a freezer and only use the IM200SS periodically.  It does make some noise when the compressor is operating so placing it in a bedroom might not be advisable.  But in a kitchen or living room it shouldn't matter.\n\nUPDATE 11/17/2014  I've had this ice maker for a year now and I'm lowering the rating I give it from four stars to only two.  At the moment it is still making acceptable ice but there have been problems.  The first was that a brown scum would accumulate in the area under the ice bucket.  I assumed that some metallic part in the ice maker was rusting but it may be something else though I can't imagine what that would be.  I cleaned that tank.  Oddly the ice itself never seemed to be affected (no odd taste.) Then it began making ice that was too thick to eject into the bucket.  I turned it off and allowed it to reach room temperature and then only partly filled the water reserve tank.  That fixed that problem. Next the controller that limits the amount of water from the reserve each ice making cycle stopped working and all the water in the water reserve tank would flow into the tank under the ice bucket and flood the ice.  Not good.  Again I even more severely limited the amount of water I would put into the water reserve tank and also contrived to raise the ice bucket about an inch using small button magnets attached under the ice bucket to adjust the height.  This last so I could use more water and not have to refill the tank as often.  But about two months ago I discovered that the limiter problem has now cured itself (at least for the time being.)  Now only the brown scum and thick ice problems remain but they are only intermittent.  Still, on balance, I am glad I bought this system because the ice it makes has always been very good.  I appreciate that building an ice making machine this compact is challenging.  But no more than two stars for this one.\n\nUPDATE  7/17/2017\nThe problem of keeping the unit clean became progressively more difficult.  The brown scum continued to appear and must be rust from some part of the system that should be made of stainless steel.  At times the residue in the bottom of the ice reservoir (that is, below the ice bucket) would take on an oily/slimy feel.  I just wish they had put more thought into the materials that were in contact with the water.  I finally sent the unit to the trash bin about a month ago.  In the preceding four months I was needing to clean the unit every two weeks or so.  And, although my taste buds aren't what they used to be, I believe I could detect an odd taste to the ice.  I started to worry whether I was doing damage to myself using the ice.  That together with the difficulty of keeping it clean led me to dispose of the unit.\n\nFinal conclusion - if you are willing to buy a new unit every couple of years this is the unit for you as initially I found the ice to be of high quality.  But I would hope for more from such an appliance, maybe five years between replacement.  So I've lowered the rating to (now) one star.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4716, "id": 250217, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 674, "len_tokens": 857, "text": "I fixed my own freezer!\nWish I had known this info before I did it, as I would have saved about fifty bucks.\n\nIf you have a freezer that *isn't freezing*, it is often because it isn't defrosting. (The frost buildup blocks the airflow past the cooling fins.)\n\n#1  The Defrost Timer ( Frigidaire 297318010 Defrost Timer) is VERY likely to give out eventually. It is just a mechanical timer, so it has a small motor that can go bad or its metal contacts can get fouled by the normal arcing that happens as it switches from refrigerate to defrost mode and back. This is super easy to get to and replace from the back of the refrigerator/freezer. It's about ten to fifteen bucks, so it's a cheap easy fix. (To diagnose, look for the little dial that you can turn. If you turn it, it will click and the freezer should turn off, then turn it just a little more and it should turn back on. If that happens, the contacts are fine. (If it doesn't turn the freezer off and on, then the contacts are fouled - so replace the timer.) If the contacts are fine, next mark a line on the dial and move it to the 12 o'clock position. Wait a few hours and come back and check it. If it is still in the 12 o'clock position, then the motor on the timer is dead, and you need to replace it. If however the timer has turned to, say, 2 o'clock, then the timer is still good and it is very likely that there is a different cause for the freezer to have stopped.\n\n#2  The Thermostat ( Frigidaire 297318010 Defrost Timer ) is located inside the freezer, behind the bottom back panel, near the heat exhanger that looks like a radiator. (On mine, it was at the upper left corner of the heat exchanger.) The thermostat is fairly easy to get to, and you can replace it for about ten bucks. (Especially if it looks bloated or like it came apart at all, just replace it.) To get to it, remove the shelves, and unscrew the panel. Pull the dial for the temperature selector straight off, and unclip the temp selector from the panel. There will likely be a LOT of ice behind it, if you haven't already defrosted the unit.  If you still have to defrost it, unplug the freezer and place a fan inside of it (up on a couple boards to  keep it out of the melting water). Leave the door open and the fan going for a couple hours and the ice will all be gone, easily, except for the water all over the floor... I'd defrost it in the garage, or outside if possible.\n\n#3  The defrost heater / heating element ( Frigidaire 216730700 Defrost Heater for Freezer ) is located under the heat exchanger, and is attached with some thin aluminum strips. It shouldn't really go bad, so I'd try replacing the above two items first. But if they don't fix it... well here's another forty or fifty bucks to throw at fixing the problem. Be careful with the aluminum strips that hold the defrost heater in place, and you can re-use them. (If they break, do NOT use a non-aluminum wire to hold it in place, or you could ruin your freezer!)\n\nOther diagnostics:  (I haven't done these, but they came up in my searches and fixes.)\n  If the fan doesn't run inside, that's a fairly obvious thing to replace, and looks to be pretty easy. Be sure to cycle the defrost timer to check it.\n  If there is just not enough cooling, but there is no frost buildup and the fan works, then the temperature selector might be the problem.\n  If the compressor doesn't run, there is a capacitor that I've seen come up as a replacement part.\n  If nothing works at all - no lights, no fan, no compressor, then you might have had a power surge that blew out the computer board.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4717, "id": 260519, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 704, "len_tokens": 870, "text": "Every once in a while you get a bad item but the one I got was flawed from the factory, flawed from amazon, and likely damaged by the previous owner (yeah, I ordered new).  The box arrived looking okay.  Some holes here or there but that isn't uncommon.  What wasn't normal was that the manufacturers seal had clearly been cut and the box re-taped with clear shipping tape.  Not a good start but hey, I don't need the tape, only what's inside.  When I opened the box the items inside seemed to be thrown in.  Another indication it had been previously \"owned\".  You get the point...maybe Amazon re-shipped a return?  I've had good luck with Amazon, everyone makes a mistake.  I'll ignore that...this review will be manufacturing quality since that was what I was concerned about when I was reading other's reviews.\n\nOnce out of the box, I inspected the item.  Even up close it's a great looking hood (design-wise).  The flow, the material...nice.  The workmanship and finish is where this hood really hits the dumpster.  The spot welds used to hold the thing together are minimal and have very little holding power.  The way they finish the edges removed too much material and created cracks in the edges where the material/welds were finished causing a weld to fail and then whatever filler (could just be weld) they use to fail as well (either too thin or too much stress as a result of the failed weld).  The result is a visible crack in the front left of the hood along a formed edge about an inch and a half long).  It's obvious that someone hand sands the corners.  The sand/scuff marks don't go with the grain of the stainless so it actually looks discolored as if you rubbed it too much in the wrong direction with a fine brillo pad.  Since both front corners are finished the same, you can see a noticeable difference in color form just a few feet away (so painfully obvious as you walk around in the kitchen because you always walk by it).  In more than one spot there are little subtle dents where the material had gone through the brake (how the edges are formed) or a result of handling.  These little dents don't look like customer abuse dents but more handling defects created during the manufacturing process (from experience from a past life ;) like one would expect from a piece of material that was adjusted before welding or clamped in a fixture when it was slightly out of shape.\n\nThe \"filters\" are nothing more than stainless sheets that have louvers cut into them in opposing directions.  Simple and effective i would guess but one of mine actually had a screw inside of it \"floating around\".  From the previous owner maybe...or the manufacturer?  All of the parts on the fllters are made from the same gauge material.  Because of how they fit into the hood itself, they'll likely need tweaking from time to time after washing because the tabs will likely get bent - all 3 of mine needed to be corrected just to put them in the first time.  Not a big deal I guess but I could see a tab breaking off over time.  Are replacements available?  Previous reviewers say it's tough.\n\nOh...even though the ad doesn't say it, it does have a squirrel cage blower assembly which is a good thing.\n\nI get it, half the price of other hoods.  I can understand why some might say \"awesome for the price\" or \"what a deal\" but I'm guessing they got one that was more perfect than the one I got.  What I wonder, after inspecting one in person, is if there are quality issues with things I didn't even inspect like the blower assembly, electrical...I'm suspicious.  Just visually, the discoloring of the corners due to sanding/scuffing during the manufacturers finishing process isn't acceptable and the crack I can't live with.  The product looks nice and they've got the right idea.  I'd recommend spending just a little more money and improve their finishing process even if that means making it $50 more.  The price point would certainly allow it.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4718, "id": 261069, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 678, "len_tokens": 879, "text": "4-of-5 stars because the temperature control isn't as tight as it could be, and the leaking keg coupler.  Would have been 3 stars due to the CO2 leaking problem, but the customer service was great!\n\nI decided to purchase this make and model for several reasons.  Reviews of other kegerators such as Danby and EdgeStar were commonly full of complaints about inability to get the temperature down below 40F, while beer should be stored at ~35F.  Since these residential keg coolers are only modifed food fridges, that makes sense.  However, the Kegco model had reviews where folks shared that they were able to get down to freezing with no problem.  Second, the inner dimensions should be large enough to store any size of keg, while others will not be wide enough to store kegs from Anheuser Busch or Miller.  I'm a craft beer fan so I won't probably ever touch the light beers, but I don't want my options limited.  I elected for the 309SS-2 because 1) this is going to be in my house so I wanted the nice look of the stainless steel door, 2) the ease of setting the temperature on the front, 3) the double tap will allow me to have two different beers on tap using two 1/6th-barrels so I can have keg beer and variety, and last but certainly not least 4)the super-chill mode to get a new keg cold faster.  The superchill was attractive because to me it implied that the compressor and cooling system were strong enough to take a heavy load for 24-hours without failing, which I found important because other brands failed under that condition.\n\nI decided not to get more expensive brands based on simple economics.  Doing research in many areas, common issues with kegerators are foamyness on initial pour because the tower isn't cooled, sticking faucets, and poor temperature control.  Most people were able to solve these issues by making modifications on their own.  Initial foamyness on first pour = tower cooler $30-40, sticking faucets = replace with Perlick 525SS $50-60, poor temp control = external temperature monitor and control $80-100.  So for another $100 bucks I can get a perfect poor every time, and if I even want tighter temperature controls I can add that too.\n\nThe new unit shipped in about 10 days and was in good condition.  The instructions to setup the fridge weren't great, but all you are doing is putting on four casters and then mounting the tower with the included screws.  The fridge had all holes pre-drilled and treaded so all I needed was a screwdriver.  The CO2 system was daunting, but that will be for any kegerator.  I followed the setup instructions and ended up wasting two bottles of CO2 because one of the keg couplers was leaking.  I called up BeverageFactory and one of the technical service reps guided me through identifying the leak.  At this point I was VERY frustrated with losing $50 of CO2.  Within an hour a customer service rep from Beverage Factory called me and asked me to send a picture of the leaking part (bubbling soapy water) and he would send out a new keg coupler, AND they are sending a new cleaning kit to compensate for some of my losses.\n\nThe temperature control isn't that great.  While set at 36F the fridge moves between 30 and 38 using a seperate temperature measurement and a cup of water to calibrate the indeed when the device read 31F and below that the water started to freeze, which it did.  Not perfect temperature control, but I've not had any foamyness from freezing beer in the first 3 weeks of use, so I probably won't mess with it.  I did make my own tower cooler by simply looking up online and following utube videos.  It was easy enough and took parts from radioshack and my ace hardware helpful hardware man.  Within 30 minutes the beer poored perfectly every time because the tower was now cold.  I am going to order the new perlick faucets now.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4719, "id": 263677, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 683, "len_tokens": 823, "text": "Did your Frigidaire Affinity Dryer throw an E66 code? Did your screen say open door or heater? Well, here it is, this baby is 1 of the possible 3 sensors for that code (farthest sensor on the bottom **your left** while facing the machine, just behind the 2nd sensor). I will give you the quick and dirty (but proper solution) solution if you want to read on. For those who don't, the part fits exactly and worked fine. My dryer is up and running.\n\nFor those who want to know how I figured it out:\nto get the code, get your dry out of standby by twisting the knob or pressing the start. Immediately after hold start and cancel at the same time about 3 seconds. Write down the codes and anything else the screen may say. E66 states heater, but the unit still didn't register the door as being closed.\n\nHow to open your dryer:\n- unplug it first!!\n- 2 screws on the back hold the top panel. Opening that will give you access to the main control board (black or white control box on the top right of the drum). 137260140 Frigidaire Appliance Control Board - I found mine for cheap and my original board and some blackening on the relay so better safe than sorry, ordered a new on for about $100. Still 50% cheaper than what a repairman will sell it to you for. Trust me.\n- On the front control panel (button controls), you only need to take off 2 screws, 1 on each side of that metal bracket connected to it. Nothing else, you can lift it away and set it on top of the drum without pulling plugs.\n\nThen you can reach down and see the door trigger. Simply put pressure and push the door switch out front so you can multimeter test the metal tabs. The meter should give some reading if it working at all when switch is pressed and when released, the tester should read zero. If not swap probe contacts and try again. If not then there's on part you need to replace. (mine worked) To take apart the front simply remove the top 2 screws, the 2 behind the door (dont have to remove the door, just open it), and then 2 on the very bottom. Lift slightly up and pull out.\n\nSecond: do the same for the 3 thermal sensors. One is located behind the duct running from the front to back of the machine. It is a blind reach unless you really feel the need to take part more. I just lined up the probes with my index and middle finger tips and felt around for the metal contacts. Got a reading. Then on the left side, there is a smaller duct and you will see the next 2 sensors next to each other. I tested the 2nd closest to me, got a reading. 3rd is a little bit of a game of arm/hand twister but not bad (sorry, larger forearms will not squeeze past, you will have to remove the side panel to even test it or employ child labor - j/k haha ). Of course, I did not get a reading for the 3rd and farthest sensor. This is the part I am reviewing. You do have to remove the side panel unless you have a miracle trick to unscrew it in such a tight and awkward place.\n***Note the markings on the old, don't think there's a right way to position the new on but I still put it word upright as the factory did on the original. Screw it back in and done!\n\nTemporarily put back the front control board and plug back in. Test to see if the dryer will let you past the error code and start spinning the drum. If it does then Viola! permanently close it up.\n\nUPDATE: 10/10/16 with baby #2 out, thank God I fixed this myself!! Been ripping through loads of laundry and it has been working spectacular. I hope everybody has the same luck.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4720, "id": 266105, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 662, "len_tokens": 836, "text": "My wife and I just got this delivered on Sept. 22nd, which I believe is the first day it was available for sale as it's a new model.  She's always wanted a double oven, and we don't have the space for the typical wall model in our condo.  I must say it's quite the impressive sight.  It looks expensive - and it should because it is expensive for a non-luxury brand.  But you get what you pay for - the quality is there and you can see and feel the difference between this and your typical $1,400 range.  It comes with an iron grill/griddle that runs on the center 5th burner (the existing grate must first be removed).  The iron grates are much lighter than many stoves, so they are easy to remove for cleaning.  GE has an excellent reputation for its gas ranges as per Consumer Reports, and I expect this one to be no different.  The cooking performance has been excellent on both the stovetop and the oven so far.  We haven't tried the convection function yet though, so can't comment on that.\n\nIt has a tri-ring burner which is basically three burners in one.  It's kind of hard to explain, but really cool once you see it in person.  You have separate controls for both ovens on the keypad, which is really easy to operate with just a touch.  It can be locked for cleaning or to keep children from playing with it.  The upper oven is the smaller one.  It's good for pizzas, cookies, cakes, and other smaller food dishes.  It's probably the one most people will use most often.  The lower oven is the bigger one you'll use for roasts, turkeys and other bulkier foods.  The upper oven contains the broiler, while the lower oven has convection capability.  A few notes of caution about this model: 1) You give up the storage drawer most ranges have, so be prepared to store all your pans elsewhere; 2) If you have problems bending down or picking up heavy food trays from down low, this model is not for you.  The lower oven is basically on the floor and can be hard to access; 3) This model is slightly deeper than many ovens - be sure to measure before buying to ensure nearby cabinet doors and drawers will still open without hitting it; 4) Lastly, understand that this is a slide-in model, which means the sides aren't finished and you'll have a gap between the back of the range and the wall if your space isn't made for this type of range.\n\nAll said, this was a fantastic purchase, and we're very happy with it so far.  At the time of this writing, according to GE this range is a one of a kind - it is currently the only double oven slide-in gas range made.  There is a stand-alone version in gas/electric (finished sides and backsplash) and an electric slide-in version of this model for those who prefer those types of ranges.  People who desire Wolf, Viking, Dacor, etc. need not apply, as this is not a wanna-be pro range meant to compete with those, as they start at $1-2K more.  But it compares favorably with GE's higher-end Cafe and Monogram lines.  If you're shopping for the top of the line of a mid-tier brand and you can afford one, I highly recommend this model.\n\n*UPDATE* - after living with this range for nearly 18 months now, I can update people on the reliability of this range.  It has been rock solid without a single problem.  However, it scratches unusually easily.  We have a few ugly scratches front and center despite being very careful with it.  So beware of that issue.  Also, the black metal caps on the burners permanently stain if just about anything but water spills on them. So watch for that as well.  Other than those two things, we have not a single complaint.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4721, "id": 268475, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 698, "len_tokens": 829, "text": "I ordered this unit because of it's advertised high capacity air handling properties and the price.  Although having to wait a couple months for delivery after ordering this unit, I believe wait was worth it.  During the wait period Amazon was excellent in communicating with me about my order without prompting from me.  The hood was packaged extremely well with what appeared to me to be expensive soft foam packing on the inside and high density cardboard supports to protect the outside of the box.  I was pleased to see that there was not a stray mark, dent, or any other imperfection anywhere on the unit.  We done Z Line!!!\n\nProduct Summary:  This thing really moves the air.  I very much appreciate the fact that the two large fans do a good job of removing steam and smoke from the front burners of the stove which is a huge improvement over my previous hood. The robust air handling does come at a cost however - I find the unit more noisy than expected.  My kitchen is part of a combined dining and living space.  Consequently, the hood fans create enough noise to mask low volume music and normal voice conversation in the room.  If my kitchen was separated from the rest of the areas, I don't think I would mind the noise.  Installation was not that hard but was complicated by the fact I had to fabricate wooden mounting rails under the cabinet to accommodate mounting screw holes on the hood.  I was very pleased that the supplied rectangular ceiling vent hardware was compatible with my existing vent so this eliminated the need to purchase more vent hardware and reduced installation time. Installation required a second person to assist.  The hood performs very well so I do recommend this product to others.\n\nHere are a few observations about the Z Line stove hood.\nI like the:\n  *  Fit and finish of the hood.  All parts are manufactured to close tolerances so you don't see gaps in the seams.  The stainless steel is beautiful and feels like industrial quality.  It is thick enough to tolerate moderate pressure when cleaning without denting or creasing.\n  *  Two halogen lights. The lights provide bright and even illumination on and around the stove top.\n  *  Controls.  The controls are simple with three fan speed buttons and one button that controls the lighting.\n  *  Dimensions.  The unit fit perfectly in my 30\" wide space and is thinner than my previous hood giving us more height in the cooking area over the stove.\n  *  Appearance.  It just looks great in our kitchen and complements the other appliances.  There is no brand logo on the unit to conflict with brand badges on your other appliances.\n  *  Performance.  As mentioned above the hood sucks gases from the front burners of the electric stove top and does so very well at a height of 25 inches.\n\nI did not like the:\n  *Cryptic Instructions.  I realize this is a tough area for all manufacturers but as a weekend warrior DIY guy I need lots of pictures and instructions. The instruction book left a lot to be desired for me. Others with more skills might find installation goes easier.  The instructions might help the less skilled user more if there were more step by step details included.  Schematics in the instructions need to be updated as mounting screw location measurements in the instructions were not consistent with the mounting hole measurements on the unit that was shipped to me.  While planning your installation I recommend that you do your own measurements to confirm.\n  *  Lack of lighting options. This is admittedly nitpicking but you only get an on/off light button with the unit.  There is no high/low light setting available. That said, the 20W halogen bulbs provide a satisfactory level of light intensity.\n  *  Fan noise.  I wish the unit was quieter but I'll settle for the high capacity air extraction as a compromise.\n\nAll in all, I am very pleased with Amazon's service and the high quality product I received.  I hope this helps future buyers as well as Z Line as they consider future improvements in their products.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4722, "id": 270292, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 649, "len_tokens": 835, "text": "Ice backup better than \"insulated\" buckets, driving time, gasoline waste, overpriced bad ice?\n\nGiving 5 stars only temporarily in order to report in phases a more holistic impression of this solution\nto ice outages, thanks to a Samsung ref. design whose fickle ice maker requires a backup unit like this.\n\nUnit was selected b/c:\nit was in the highest bracket for owner reviews on Amazon & Best Buy\nno store locally had this (or any other) counter ice maker\nPrime shipping\nin stock @ Amazon\navailable next day\n~ same price as a replacement freezer ice maker (well, except for shipping markups + expedited)\n\nYou MUST wait the 4 hours mfr demands if unit shipped or unboxed out of level (depend on this!)\n\nTHEN\n\nFirst ice comes out in 8 minutes flat, selected as \"large\" BUT the ice bucket catcher has a center hole\n\nEXACTLY this size to allow some to dive back into the water pool reservoir .... ?!?!?!\nThis is because the 9 metal rods haven't gotten cold enough = tiny, tiny ice at first.\nPlacing the shovel in the bucket is a temporary solution but it takes up space for ice; remove it later or\n\nwhen running at full tilt.\n\nSecond ice dumps in 8 minutes flat!  Size & quantity is not impressive BUT calculations indicate x1.7\n\nfaster than -14F freezer ice maker when Large ice bullets chosen (Tiny bullets might form faster).\n\nContrary to Specifications @ \"27#/24hrs\" ~1#/hr.\nBeats fetching store ice thus far & rich in ice ... until tested by visitors coming next month  ... so wait\n\n& see.  Third dump ~8 minutes = more exciting than freezer ice every 90 minutes (even if much\n\nlarger dump).\n\nComment made - is there water boiling in the kitchen?  Does it seem that loud?  Dishwasher seems\n\nthat loud, freezer ice dump louder but deeper, muffled sound & no sound when running.\n\nNext morning\n2 hours = 1 quart mug filled with \"large\" ice ~1 pound\nIndicator \"ice full\" is because it needs you to push ice away from dump site, your reward is at least\n\ntwo more loads; will try to see if 1.5# in specs can actually be true with a little ice pushing help ... seems a stretch.  Freezer ice maker on the door hold 7.5# and dispenses the oldest ice at bottom!\n\nThat day, the production rate stayed the same, sometimes filling up with ice but heavier duty ice; it\n\nseems the 9 metal rods don't respond immediately to commands like start or switching from tiny to\n\nlarge cubes/bullets. consistent with startup SOP.\n\nEven 30 ' away some will find the drone (not to mention the ice drops) noises to be competitive, so\n\nplaced with a buffer between, carpet/other materials nearby is a plus for everyday use.\n\nIf a surplus of ice is achieved due to having another ref/freez maker, know that dumping these soft,\n\nmoist bullets into that freezer bucket WILL freeze together, form a block, then this logjam must be ice picked to insure normal ice dispensing.  Saving them in a tray in freezer = ice picking out what you need.\n\nThis ice is the next friendliest soft ice to shaved ice for your teeth - ask your dental tech next visit about that if you chew it.\n\nHave drained it once to insure fresh filtered water and didn't make too much of a mess as a newbie - TIPS:  have more than 4 cups catcher, better is over sink; refilling up to max. level only if it's turned off - otherwise will become too full and up into ice basket above water reservoir.\n\nWaiting for a sale?  HA!  These don't last long & NONE were stocked locally here in Mudville (pop. 200,000).  Yes, I refer this for modest extra ice, ice maker backup and fun toy gift to guys into bartending, kids big on \"soda fountains\".", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4723, "id": 270357, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 653, "len_tokens": 836, "text": "Can't believe how LARGE this is- more than enough for my needs (I'd estimate large enough to hold at least a month's worth of frozen food).  Glad I didn't get the 3 cubic feet one.  It holds MUCH more than the photo (or video) suggests (more below).  Well-packed, in perfect shape.  Indeed, as the instructions assert, if the freezer isn't level the door doesn't stay closed.  I'd never done this before, have poor manual dexterity and it took me quite a while to adjust the feet on each side, using a level horizontally and vertically (checking the side to side tilt and the front-to-back).  It wasn't difficult, but it required time and patience.  The instructions say turn each foot (two at the front corners) to the right to lower, to the left to raise, which confused me a bit but it translates to counter-clockwise to lower, clockwise to raise.  Once I finally got it level (I have a wonky surface in my travel trailer), the door closed tight.  At one point I tried locking the door with the key and THAT did the trick, so if it ever becomes an issue (like when traveling) nice to have a surefire method for ensuring that the door remains closed.\n\nNote- I got it all situated, THEN read the part about initially setting the temperature knob to 5, the highest it will go, so had to pull it out again and set it (see photo of the back- the white round dial on the left).  SO, all ready to go, plugged it in, and put in an ice cube tray of water.  It took less than TWO hours to freeze solid!  (I read reviews of other freezers that said it took overnight for ice to freeze initially).\n\nTo give you an idea of what can fit in the freezer (I experimented), it can hold 39 full-size Banquet TV dinners + 2 smaller packages, like Lean Cuisines, + 4 small frozen juice containers + 8 smallish burritos, like Don Jose's.  I've checked repeatedly, and regarding a large bag of ice, there's none of that slightly melting and then re-freezing again, which results in ice that's congealed cubes and requires an icepick (my house fridge does that).  Ice cubes remain frozen solid and separate, and ice cream is as hard as a rock, the way I like it.\n\n[UPDATE:  The thing about the ice not slightly melting I've found is only true if you keep the ice on the bottom shelf.  If you place it on the top shelf it does slightly melt, requiring an ice pick.  But ice cream kept on the top shelf is always rock hard, as is other frozen food, so it seems the effect is slight and of little consequence, my house fridge/freezer does the same thing.  I've kept chicken, fish, etc. frozen on the top shelf for months at a time, no ill effects whatsoever and cooks up fresh.  Also, for what it's worth, we had a power outage of 10 hours and everything still seemed to be frozen solid.  After five months of use still LOVE the freezer.]\n\nI was unable to upload the video of the freezer from the Whynter site for some reason, you can go there to see it (but it also shows those little containers/cartons of Haagen Dazs-type icecream, which don't provide an accurate impression of how MUCH it holds).  You can also download the owner's manual (note: the freezer is listed under refrigerators, for some reason).  FYI, the owner's manual states that the freezer draws 75 watts, .88 amps.  It comes with a small paper sticker on the front that removes easily after soaking for a few minutes with dishwashing lotion.  So quiet, you can barely tell when it's running.  And it's BEAUTIFUL.  Couldn't be happier with this freezer!  If it malfunctions or dies I'll update my review.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4724, "id": 280301, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 661, "len_tokens": 852, "text": "I just saved the cost of a new dishwasher - hooray!  I installed our Kitchenaid dishwasher in 1971, over 40 years ago.  It still works fine, but the vinyl covered racks had numerous places where they were rusting very badly. Obviously, racks are no longer available for such an old machine, but even if they were, they'd be too costly to justify instead of just biting the bullet and replacing the dishwasher.\n\nIn some spots, the wire was rusted more than halfway through.  Some of the spikes were an inch or more shorter than original because they'd rusted away.  In short, the racks were in HORRIBLE shape.  I found a bottle of ReRACK at a hardware store and since it was only 7 bucks, I figured there was not much to lose.  The only color in the store was white, I later found out Performix also makes gray, but it didn't matter since my dishwasher racks are pale blue.  White looks way better than rust!\n\nThere were so many rusty spots, I decided to sandblast the racks.  If you don't have access to sandblasting, you could start with 50 grit sandpaper, and move to 120 to finish, or you could use a grinding wheel in a rotary tool.  After getting rid of the rust, clean the surfaces carefully twice with lacquer thinner to completely degrease.  This is a better solvent than the rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol they recommend.  Most rubbing alcohol is only 70%, meaning 30% is water, which is a lousy grease cutter.  If you use rubbing alcohol, try to find 90% which is a better solvent for grease.  Use clean paper towels and Q-tips for this job.  Let dry thoroughly.\n\nApply several thin coats of ReRACK, letting it dry between coats, approximately a half-hour or more.  For the worst spots on my racks, I put 5 coats on, so it requires some time and patience.  Tilt the rack using some blocks of scrap wood to allow even application.  You'll find you need to reposition the rack several times to gain good access to all spots needing repair.\n\nOur bottom rack needed about 120 spots repaired, the top rack only about 30.  One bottle did the job but there was very little left over.  The solvent (mostly acetone) evaporates very quickly. If your product thickens up, you can thin it with acetone or with Plastic Wood Solvent, which contains acetone, methyl ethyl ketone and toluene.  Add just a little solvent (less than a cc), replace the cap, and shake thoroughly.  Do this until you have the consistency you want.  If you over dilute, you can just let it sit for a while with the cap off because the solvents are very volatile.  Make sure you replace the cap tightly while you are examining the rack for more areas to repair, and also while you are repositioning the rack to get access to all repair areas.\n\nSome people will object to the odor.  I didn't think it was as terrible as some others.  If it bothers you, do this job outdoors, or in the garage with the door open.  I did it indoors but had a fan on low to blow fresh air past me.\n\nAfter curing in a warm dry place for 24 hours, the racks can be returned to service.  Our dishwasher is working great and no more rust. The repairs were done several months ago and are holding up perfectly.  After a month, I did find a few tiny spots where rust was starting to bleed through.  I simply cleaned those areas with solvent, let dry, and reapplied a couple more coats.  Worked great.  Couldn't be happier with the results.  This stuff is amazing.  Just remember to read and follow the directions carefully.  Lots of people don't and you don't want to waste your time to get poor results.  Do it right and you'll be delighted and save a lot of money if your dishwasher is working fine otherwise.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4725, "id": 284669, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 743, "len_tokens": 882, "text": "Do not buy any appliances that are Samsung or Sears Kenmore because Kenmore slaps their name on defective Samsung appliances.\n\n(Please, stay with me, I know this isn't a Sears Website)\n\n I am writing a review on Amazon concerning the most expensive refrigerator Sears sold four years ago.  It was made by Samsung. And I would like to forewarn other consumers that Samsung is not on the up and up regularly.  If you call Samsung they deny making the refrigerator I purchased.  In the four years we have had this piece of expensive crap it has broken down six times.  Six times translates into many repairman visits per breakdown incident because they do not know how to fix this refrigerator.  It has a plethora of design flaws.  Sears knows that they sell defective products and obviously do not care.  You must buy the extended warranties or you will be laying out huge amounts of cash for the repairmen to come out only to ATTEMPT to solve the puzzle of what is wrong with this piece of crap.  You pay by the hour for repairmen if you do not have the  warranty.  You pay for the parts if you do not have a warranty.  You pay with multiple days of inconvenience and many people have to take days off from work to be home and present when the repairmen come.\n\nIt's winter so I have been putting my food outside.  The refrigerator, this time, has been out of commission for over a month.  I have lost far more food than the $250 check Sears sent to cover the cost of lost food because the weather has been fluctuating.  It's 55 degrees outside right now and promises the same for tomorrow.  A good refrigeration temp is 38 degrees.  The repairmen are here right now for their sixth visit for this one breakdown incident.\n\nAnd. resentfully, I pay $260 each year for the extended warranty.\n\nHow insane to have to put out that kind of money yearly for a new appliance!!!!\n\nThe first year we had this thing the repairman made his first visit when we had the fridge for three months.\n\nTwo years ago the one repairman was so confounded that he went and re-took  the Sears repairman training class for refrigeration.  He did this so he could be instructed on the repair of my refrigerator model.  The Kenmore Pro.  The class instructor has no knowledge of this refrigerator and so could not instruct the repairman as to how to fix it's many problems.\n\nSears sells a product they know their repairmen cannot fix.\n\nSears sells a product that the manufacturer denies making.\n\nSo, essentially, it's a shell game.  Isn't that nice?\n\nI have gone through Thanksgiving and now Christmas without a refrigerator.\n\nThe new parts arrived here a week ago before Christmas and I let Sears know the parts were here and they made no attempt to make a new attempt to fix this piece of crap before Christmas.\n\nHow they do not care about their customers!!!\n\nI always read reviews before making a purchase here on Amazon.  Our toaster died a week ago and in the toaster reviews one person wrote something very wise.  She wrote advice to just buy the cheapest toaster because there are bad reviews for all of the toasters regardless of the pricing.\n\nFor me, that pretty well sums it up about most appliances.\n\nI've spoken with so many friends and associates about this problem and the general consensus is that it is  ubiquitous.\n\nI have a friend who bought a new fridge four years ago.  So many repairs later...they just bought another refrigerator to replace the four year old fridge because they got no where with the manufacturer or the seller.\n\nThe same friend has replaced her furnace twice in seven years.\n\nThere are so many accounts and I'm sure any one of you readers could come up with your own library of accounts known to you.\n\nOur government allows these manufacturers/sellers to get away with ripping off the consumer.  It's time for a consumer revolt.\n\nReally.  Really.\n\nI will never, ever buy so much as shoelace from Sears ever again.\n\nWe sold our other home four years ago and moved to this new home.  We left our old refrigerator at the old home and the people who bought our old home love the refrigerator that came with it...it's almost 30 years old and works like a charm.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4726, "id": 284968, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 730, "len_tokens": 819, "text": "Update\n\n- Been using this for about 6 months now and it was such a great purchase. The delayed start and fresh hold settings make doing laundry so much easier. On laundry day I start a load before I go to work and its ready when I get home. This saves an hour our of the whole process from my old washer since I do not have to worry about wet laundry sitting around all day.\n\n -I also wash cloth diapers with this and it does an amazing job cleaning them.\n\n- My water bill has dropped quite a bit\n\n- I commented below about long wash times but drying times are much faster now so the total wash / dry time remains the same as before. I am also saving money on the dryer since my clothing is not as wet.\n\nAs to the bad reviews about clothing not being as clean. I have not noticed that at all over 6 months.\n\nOriginal Review\n\nThis thing is amazing its a good buy if you want a high efficiency machine.\n\nBackground\nThis unit replaced an standard top load washer that was at most 10 years old. It still worked quite well, we just wanted an upgrade. I still have the old dryer, which works better now when used in conjunction with the high efficiency washer.\n\nGeneral Comments\nThis is an amazing washer and if you are looking for a good high efficiency washer this is the one to get. For some strange reason I enjoy doing laundry more now because this thing is so high tech. It also is big enough that it washes everything I can throw at it. I have washed a king size comforter with this thing no problem, I can also run larger loads then before.\n\nThe Bad Reviews\nI want to comment about the bad reviews, several people talk about how their clothing is not clean enough due to the low water usage. I have not noticed that issue at all. My clothing comes out as clean if not cleaner than my old top load washer.  Additionally, there are several stain settings with increase the water usage if you feel that is an issue.\n\nPros\n- Delayed wash. This is a nice feature as I often put in a load before I leave for work and with the delayed wash feature its ready when I get home\n- Clean hold - If you know you might not be back in time to move a load from the washer it spins the washer every few minutes to keep things fresh. Also since the washer is a completely sealed system their would be less water evaporation anyway.\n- low water usage. This does not just save you money on water but it takes much less time to dry my clothing now as well saving even more money.\n- Low energy usage. The energy sticker states that the washer uses $18 of energy a year, with hot water. That is next to nothing, and even if I ended up using double that it is still low.\n-MADE in AMERICA. I am not a huge made in America person, and often there is not even an option, but I do feel better if I bought a made in America product.\n- Highly reviewed from other sources. If you read a lot of professional reviews this unit is in the top 5 high efficiency washers to choose from.\n- Faster drying time. Since it uses so little water drying times are faster. Also clothing comes out less wrinkled because there is no high speed spin cycle that compresses everything.\n\nCons\n- Wash times are very long. This is not an understatement; even the smallest load is 45 minutes. Large, or very dirty loads can take up to 2 hours. Fortunately, the delayed wash and clean hold features limit this issue. Also drying time is much less so the total time for a complete wash and dry is not as much more, and as I said before I am not using a newer high tech dryer.\n\nOverall this is the unit to get if you want a high efficiency washer. Its priced lower than many of the other models out there, gets very good professional reviews, is made in america, and comes with enough features to make cleaning that much eaiser.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4727, "id": 288878, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 709, "len_tokens": 823, "text": "My experience..  We use the dishwasher once or twice a week at the very most so it has seen light duty.. Pump motor is shot after about two years.. ER03.. I also agree with many of the others.. The dishes are always drenched with water after after a wash..  We have to rack them for a while or dry them by hand.. Dish soap often will not release but we did discover that the preformed all in one tablets seemed to have cured that. It smells at times.. A little bleach in the bottom over night and a rinse cycle now and then seems to take of it for quite while. As I said in my title..  High Price Low Quality and short on warranty.. Save your money and buy something else.\n\nUpdate: 10/20/11..\n\n While replacing the motor I made a few other discoveries others should know about. When you order the motor also get these items.\n\n  4 Motor mount grommets - black\n  3 Motor panel grommets - yellow\n\n  They are made of low quality rubber/plastic and are very easily damaged while replacing the motor. They are also expensive for what they are and if you can find equivalents at your local hardware store for a fraction of the cost you will be better off using them.\n\n  In addition to the motor and grommets also plan on replacing at least hose #50 as well. The quality of the rubber in this hose is such that once it has been compressed by the factory hose clamp it is highly unlikely to properly seal when remounted after replacing the motor. When this connection leaks you will see the infamous ER01 leak error code.  As with the grommets if you can find a hose replacement elsewhere and adapt it you may be much better off in the long run. Think auto parts store etc.\n\n  For those of you who are having difficulty with clearing ER01. I have a simple solution for you. Open the door and remove the plastic strainer in the floor. This has a small finger handle and will just pop right out for you. Then push a towel or sponge into the chamber and absorb the water and lift it out to the sink or some place. You will have to do this maybe 5-6 times or more to absorb all of the water. Once you have cycle the power and the error will clear.  This is a tried and true method and I am sure you can come up with many variations on it but what ever you to be sure to get all of the water.\n\n  After going through this our dishwasher has been running as well as it ever had. As soon as I have a chance to dissect the failed pump motor I will let you know why it failed and if it is something that you can do to repair it yourself.\n\n  Update: 10/07/13\n\n  It has been two years since I wrote the last update on this product and I wanted to complete the entry.\nSince replacing the hose as described previously the dishwasher has run for 2 years without incident. The pump motor damage everyone has been experiencing has been confirmed to be the result of the hose collapsing when the pump turns on. This restricts water flow and among other things allows the pump to run hot reducing its life considerable. Not only does this hose contribute to pump failure but it is also the root cause for the poor rinsing and washing of the dishes others have described. Replacing the hose with a non standard substitute not only saved the new pump but improved the overall performance of the washer.\n\n  I would recommend to anyone experiencing a pump failure to replace the hose with one from the local automotive store and not a factory part. You will be much happier with your dishwasher. Just bring the old hose with you to get the closest match and trim to fit. And just one last side note. The hose I selected was 1/3 the price of the factory replacement hose. Electrolux should be paying me for this diagnosis considering how much these dishwashers cost and the quality they boast. Good luck to all.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4728, "id": 289020, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 699, "len_tokens": 858, "text": "The biggest complaint most people have with these units is the Celsius readout.\n\nBut the circuit board has a location for a jumper (solder blob) to be added to switch them to Fahrenheit readout.\n\nOpening the units is probably the hardest part of the whole procedure.\n\nSlide the battery compartment open and remove the two button cells.\n\nGet a small flat-bladed screwdriver and insert it into each of the four holes on the back of the unit, one at a time, working your way around, and pushing the little latch tabs inward until you can disengage the tab from the hole it locks into in the front part of the case.  Once you get them all loose, you can separate the back from the front.\n\nAs you remove the back, notice the orientation of the circuit board within the front half of the case.  Notice also the \"zebra strip\" that connects the display to the circuit board when the unit is assembled.  These zebra strips have alternating slices of conductive and insulating \"rubber-like\" material made into a sandwich.  You can see the alternating black and translucent slices if you look very closely.\n\nAnyhow, the zebra strip is rubbery and conductive at every other little slice.  The idea is that a row of contacts on a circuit board can be connected to a corresponding row of contacts on an LCD by simply squeezing the zebra strip between the PC board and the display.  So when the unit is assembled, the PC board is pushed down against the zebra strip hard enough to squeeze the zebra strip into good contact with both the display and PCB.\n\nNow, when you pull the PCB completely out of the front piece, and turn it over, you will see the row of contacts along one edge, that are meant to connect to the zebra strip.  So it's easy to get the board back into place the right way by observing those contacts and knowing that they must be in contact with the zebra strip when you put it back together.\n\nOK.  Now, look at the green side of the PCB.  You will find a set of three contacts near one corner of the board.  One is marked \"F\" and one is marked \"2S\".  The third (middle) contact is not marked.  It's presumably the common for the other two.\n\nBy bridging across between the middle contact and the one marked \"F\", the display will read in Fahrenheit.  The idea is for you to just put a blob of solder in place to bridge the two contacts.  That's easily done if you have any experience soldering circuit boards.\n\nThe other contact, marked \"2S\" probably speeds up the rate of update for the display.  That would cause the unit to read quite a bit faster, which might be good in some applications.  However, it would also probably reduce the battery life.  So that would be a trade-off you'd have to decide if you wanted to make.\n\nI haven't had time to fully test the units I got, but they both read out to within 1/10th of a degree C of each other, so that's encouraging.  Then again, they may both just happen to be off the same amount in the same direction!\n\nI will likely test them and maybe even see if there's a way to calibrate them by changing the value of one or two of the resistors on the PC board.\n\nBut in the mean time, I give them four stars for being pretty good for the money.\n\nEdit to add:\n\nThese read the same at temperatures near room temp.  For example, now that I've modified them both to read in Fahrenheit, they're on my desk here, and both reading 74.3 degrees F.\n\nBut I tested them in a properly prepared ice slush, and where they should have read 32.0 degrees F, one of them read 34.7 and the other read 34.3.  So they're both off by several degrees F, and not identical at that temperature.  They may well be off at room temperature, too, but just happen to agree with each other.\n\nFurther testing, and some investigation into whether they can be calibrated is warranted.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4729, "id": 289744, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 708, "len_tokens": 892, "text": "I bought this at Lowes actually lol,  because they had one in stock at my local store and were able to deliver the next day.  Long story short, a rat got into my house,  i was able to trap it in one of the kitchen cupboards.  i created a path out the back door and opened the cupboard, but what does it do,  it runs under my oven.  So to scare it out, i turn on the oven, and what happens next???  You'd think a rat would come running out and scamper out the door.  Nope, i smell burnt rat hair or flesh,  so i turned off the oven and i think the rat died in the hot air vent that leads up from the broiler to the oven.  So gross, so not wanting anything to do with my old oven i bought this one haha.  So far this oven has been great.  I love the large metal knobs, they ignite easily and are at the high setting at first, and you turn the knob left to go down the lowest setting which is a very small flame.  So don't forget to turn off the burner, sometimes i think it's off but it's on it's lowest setting.  But i do like the range of settings for each burner which should give you good control of your cooking heat.  There are 5 burners, a large oval burner in the middle for stock pots, or an included griddle.  This range doesn't come with a wok attachment, but there is a whirlpool one available here at amazon for 32 bucks i think it was, and fits.  I just ordered it, so looking forward to doing some stir fry soon as well.  The electronic oven panel is easy to use,  it's pretty intuitive once you try it.  It has 3 avail self settings so you can program things you cook the most, which is convenient.  It has 4 presets like pizza, bread proofing, slow cook, and dehydrate.  It has a bake/broil button, and a convection bake and broil buttons as well.  I tried the convection oven to bake some bread and it worked well, evenly browned, i cooked at 25 degress lower then normal on the convection setting and it came out well.  It has a timer setting,  clock,  or you just set the bake time, temp,  and you can set a pre time, to bake at a later time, in which it turns on the oven at that time, bakes your food and turns off.  The oven works great in my opinion, and some have stated the edges and sides get hot after an hour of baking.  Not even, all my oven handles,  burner knobs were still safe to touch, but the oven vent is centered right under the control panel display, so if touch the metal under the display, it's burning hot.  The panel itself stayed relatively cool, and i was still able to touch it without being burnt.  I also like the large oven, for when i cook my thanksgiving turkeys, can't wait to try the convection setting on it this year.  Oh and the oven has a burner at the top to do broiling in the oven, the bottom drawer is just  storage.  The  range burners are set deep, like down an inch or more, so if you spill it gets trapped and the black surface was somewhat easy to clean so far.  The panel is a fingerprint magnet, so is the stainless brushed areas, seems to like finger smudges, but overall the oven looks nice,  the sides are black, the top of the range is black, the whole front, doors, and display panel are brushed steel look, so it's attractive.  I think the only thing i didn't like is, the autolocking oven door.  I have to read up and see if i can disable it since i don't have kids in the house.  After baking some bread,  the door was locked until it cooled down to a safe level.  Well, i wanted to take out my bread at that moment, not when the ovens save to open lol.  So not sure if there is a bypass for the lock, but that's the only thing i didn't like.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4730, "id": 291199, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 698, "len_tokens": 848, "text": "update: have had this for a little while now (a month or two?) and am still very happy with it - more than anything, happy with the filter. i take care of dogs and have a cat, and the filter catches A LOT. in fact i just took out all my winter clothes that were stored away and there was a fleece winter headband covered in cat hair and dog hair - i washed it and it came out with all the hair washed off!! the filter caught the hair - i was NOT expecting that and it was a miracle, now i don't have to tape all that hair off. i wish i could fill the machine more than 3/4 but that's ok. it's so much fun to be able to do laundry at home (i hate schlepping all these pounds of laundry to the laundromat) and i find it grounding and comforting. love it.\n\n****\n\njust got this yesterday, hooked it up today and used it for the first time.\n\nat the nyc laundromat, my boyfriend and i used to do one month's worth of laundry at a time and bring huge bags (that's right, we went once a month and used multiple machines at once).  now, using this for the first time, still with a month's worth of dirty laundry each, we're having to do a few loads just because there are two of us and we haven't done laundry for a month, but oh what a miracle it is to do it while i'm reading a magazine and watching tv :D i know we'll be doing laundry biweekly now (or whenever we want, naked if we want to!), and i'll stop buying more clothes just to have something to wear.\n\nthis thing is super quiet. i accidentally set it on heavy, which makes it  go too long with two rinse cycles, now we're doing a \"normal load.\"  the spin cycle works super well and the stuff comes out NOT dripping wet, so i can hang it up in my apartment and NO water is dripping whatsoever.\n\ndirections r a bit confusing, never mentioning when to turn on the faucet!  i watched a youtube video (just go to youtube and type in the model number) to see what one user did.  she had leaking, we had  no leaking. in the video, the woman mentions she had read that  you're supposed to use \"high efficiency detergent\" - well the directions actually say you're supposed to use POWDER HIGH EFFICIENCY  DETERGENT. i had already brought ultra downy liquid high efficiency detergent, but it still worked great. the clothes smell AWESOME. the woman in the video just used norrnal liquid detergent and was still fine. the dierctions say to use less than usual but i want to smell the detergent for once in my life - and tat's what i did. large loads with a normal amount of detergent and they smell great. the dirty water that comes out into the sink is truly dirty so you feel like your clothes are really getting washed.\n\ni never brought a dryer - we don't have space for it and don't need it. once day, if we buy a house, it'll be nice to have toasty warm towels etc but whatever. right now my aprtment looks like a gypsy camp with long strings strung up and clothes hanging off the strings to dry, but it's not bad. all this is still better than hauling 40 pounds of laundry to the laundromat.\n\nlove it. recommend it. i haven't tried to move it yet - the wheels are tiny and as everyone mentions u have to tily it sideways to move it. i don't want to have to tip it as it weighs 90 lbs so i'm going to look for cheap casters to store it somewhere when not in use.  i agonized over using this v the sonya and ended up buying this one bc it's amazon prime so it's covered if any problems.  also, delivery was great. this is going to make doing laundry a lot more convenient. and that soft whooshing laundry sound (VERY soft) is very calming.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4731, "id": 296780, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 727, "len_tokens": 847, "text": "DO NOT BUY A FRONT LOADER!!! We did and hate it; sour clothes and reliability issues. It simply doesn't use enough water to get things clean and you end up using strong scented detergents to mask the sour smell or running the same load twice. They try to convince you that you are doing the world a favor by using less water but I think the laws of physics dictate that YOU NEED WATER to do the job. You're better off going to the toy department and buying a sparkly fairy wand if you want to magically clean your clothes without water or if dry cleaning everything is not an option. Prior to purchase I thoroughly researched our model using Consumer Reports, we follow all the recommended maintenance steps from the manufacturer and also use those mysterious cleaning tablets. Washing clothes has never been so complicated. I've come to the conclusion we are just trying whatever we can to make up for design flaws in the machine.\n\nPros/Cons:\nFront Loader vs. Magic Wand\n- Very shiny (so is the magic wand)\n\n- Expensive to purchase and maintain (A good magic wand can be purchased for less than $10 and is totally maintenance free, ribbons can be added for extra wonder power)\n\n- Using less water makes you feel good about yourself and your contribution to the environment (using a magic wand just simply makes you feel awesome about everything!)\n\n- Single wash cycles can take over two hours (magic wand is instantaneous or you can spend as much time as you want if you're really enjoying your newfound magical awesomeness)\n\n- Clothes will frequently smell sour, especially dark colored clothes for some unknown reason. If you have clothing articles that will be ruined by torching them in the dryer y'all gonna STANK like you've been sleeping on a park bench a couple weeks = not good at all for your (surrounding) environment. (Magic wands won't make your clothes any cleaner or smell any better but sane people are sure to keep a safe distance and won't notice your musty smell from over there. Also, magic wands never discriminate based on color or textile properties as does the front loader and results are consistent and 100% predictable)\n\n- Front loaders are \"energy efficient\". Although I'm sure that's probably not true since you have to run your loads multiple times to get clothes clean. (Magic wand uses zero electricity and zero water. The only energy used is the calories you burn, which can be significant if you develop a good routine. May be worth considering combining with your Zumba class for added health benefits)\n\n- Front loaders are of relatively recent (70 or so years?) technology. (Magic wands have been around for thousands of years and are just as effective today as ever)\n\nWhen we first bought our (very expensive) front loader we would watch through the little window and marvel how amazing this machine was and how it didn't look like it was doing anything and it was oh so quiet. Turns out, that machine really ISN'T DOING JACK. It gently rolls the laundry back and forth a little, puts a spritz of water in the mix and then sits long enough that you figure that it must have done something.\n\nTrue story: I recently went to our local Sears and told the appliance sales guy that I wanted to see their machine that uses the most water possible. At first he gave me that \"I don't know what you're talking about\" look. But after I kept pushing he finally gave it up and admitted that \"those front loaders\" don't work well at all. It was as though I had finally cracked the code and he proceeded to show me their high capacity top loader. Then, looking around nervously in case the water police were nearby (yes, that's really a thing here in California) he quietly showed me how the low water level function could be overridden. Now, we have yet to replace our front loader with a proper washing machine but only for two reasons; 1) we spent a fortune on this shiny machine. 2) I would feel bad selling it to some uninformed sucker on Craigslist.\n\nIf you still feel the need for a front loader washing machine then I've got just the one for you.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4732, "id": 296890, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 744, "len_tokens": 821, "text": "I love my Panda! This is a semi-automatic washing machine that requires your supervision to complete laundry. I have a Bosch Nexxt 500 series that needed several new parts and I had laundry backing up because the parts were on back order. That machine has since been repaired and is working well once more. I have learned a lot about washing in my Panda.\nFirst of all do not place your Panda in a bathtub to do laundry. There are air intake areas that will cause the machine to malfunction if water is drawn into the motor area. Do not raise the drain hose higher than the tub of the machine. With my setup I can drain it directly into my commode and it pumps fine. It needs about a 1/2 teaspoon of liquid HE detergent to clean very well. Do not allow your control timers to get wet as this may cause machine to not work. I keep two hand towels and mop up water on the edges of the tub when I transfer my laundry to the spinner. I only fill the spinner 3/4 full and only set it to 2 1/2 minutes for the most wet items. Place your heaviest item in the spinner first. If it is a bulky item such as jeans or a corduroy shirt I only spin that item. You can tell if you need an additional minute of spin time if you are still having water flow from the drain hose when it stops you need a little extra spin. I use laundry mesh bags for delicate items. I have not had any clothing that was damaged in my machine. I do not fill it above the M for medium near the lint filter. The machine is plastic and the agitator is very strong for the durability of the machine consider that water and wet clothing weigh quite a bit. I recommend you wear gloves to reach into the wash tub side to move articles of clothing to the spinner detergent is very drying to hands. I recommend you wash the clothes you need to wash and then drain and rinse your clothing in the tub and spin again. It takes very little time to dry the clothes in my dryer afterward.\nTo cut down on lint on clothing wash like clothing together and don't drain your washtub until the clothing has been removed from washtub and spun. Purschasing a Chinese mesh lint catcher works somewhat, but I had to put mine back together because it fell apart in the wash. If Panda was to redesign the lint filter I think one like Samsung or LG use on their washers sold in Asia and India it would be a win win situation. Also if there was a tub within a tub it would be a sturdier design. My only complaint about this machine is that it leaks from the top portion of the tub at the rear it feels as though there is no material to seal  that section. It is not a deal breaker. It is a tiny amount and is due to the force of the agitation. I just use my hand towel and mop it up when noted. For my application I need a longer fill hose mine works but you have to be at the machine when it fills. You cannot use super hot water not over 115 degrees. I like to wash my towels and sheets on hot. If I used the machine for towels I would soak my towels in hot water and bleach and then move them to a prefilled warm wash two to three at a time and wash.\nOtherwise, I love this work horse it is 38 lbs and I would not want to pick it up and move it long distances. I love to watch the clothes wash and the water get dirty. The spinner gets clothing to a lightly damp state and is amazing! It beats the laundry mat hands down! I would buy it again. Just know that you as the operator must do part of the work of the wash as it is not fully automatic.\nI dry it out and leave the lids up so it will not mold. As a New out of the box machine I did note that there was an industrial smell from the plastic that is gone now.\nI will give an update at a later time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4733, "id": 297170, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 659, "len_tokens": 885, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R1OZ77967VHW26\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/E108mhTbvaS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71%2BEJ2rdwqS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;Update: I've added a video about how the machine looks/works, but I didn't catch it during a cycle. This shows what the machine looks like, and some of the things I say in my review. It also shows how quiet indeed the Panda dryer is, since I heard it, but not in the video.\n\nUpfront this is about the Manatee 12 lb washer, which is made the exact same way as the Panda. Basically Manatee and Panda are made by the same manufacturer as far as I can see. The Manatee is just a different color schemed washer. I also got my washer for $180 instead of $240, a savings of $60. I got my washer on ebay.\n\nI just got this washer to replace my Koblenz agitator, I liked the koblenz, but I really just wanted a washer+dryer in one unit so I wouldn't waste my time with buying a separate spin dryer. The washer just arrived on the 24th of December in time for Christmas.\n\nPros: Semi quiet, easy to use and figure out, drains clothes easier than any gravity based model, Light as a feather!\n\nCons, Short short cord, hard to get the washing hoses connected and working right for my sink. Lint trap is too small\n\nIn depth: I washed my towels first and the lint trap seems to work fairly well. It's just too small for it I will be buying a lint trap such as http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MUVT4MM\nThe drain worked really well! I tried using a bucket like i've seen, but my bucket couldn't hold the flow, so I just used the bracket on the hose that holds it to the unit to hold it over my sink. Honestly I finagled it a couple of times and I'm worried about how this hose will hold up. The unit iself is super light, and top loading so it's not stressful to add clothes. Maybe I can replace it with an actual hose part from a washing machine. The washer itself is powerful and fast. I do a wash and a rinse cycle and my clothes smelled really great. It fills up really fast and it drains fast too. Because the washer side uses a motor to empty the tub you can clean it really easily. I just filled it up with water and a little vinegar.\n\nI was disappointed with how super short the cord is on this unit. I have to use a power strip for it, which doesn't seem conducive for putting this unit anywhere near a sink. Filling it up with a bucket might work, but all the options just feel a little strenuous. Putting it next to the sink and linking it up to a countertop plug works if you're just washing clothes and putting the unit away which is zero problem for me. The spin dryer is really cool, holding on to the unit while it starts up is recommended since it's a little unstable as it gets going. The spin dry works with a switch, you turn the switch to drain and turn the timer on the spin dry side and let it go. 2-3 minutes gets the clothes damp, but not wet. They can be hung or put in a dryer. The spin dry side is a little small, meaning you may have to split up the clothes in drying, but it's no big deal to leave some clothes in the wash side for a few minutes while it the others dry.\n\nThe little plastic tube that came for my washer to fill the tub doesn't work for my sink, but my sink at my current place is slightly odd. I just used my custom hose for it and it filled up fine. Overall I'm really happy with this washer,I love it, but the plug is just a problem it's a 4.5/5 for me.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4734, "id": 301202, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 698, "len_tokens": 867, "text": "Amazing, beautiful piece of absolutely useful technology.  I cannot praise this machine too highly... for my uses.  Your mileage may vary, so be clear on how and why this machine is so useful, and why many people love it so much and so overwhelmingly.\nFirst off, you probably will not be very happy with it if it is your sole machine and you have a large family or a lot of dirty, greasy clothes (like a mechanic or farmer or such).  I live on a farm, which means I get muddy, greasy, do lots of carpentry, get covered with weird chemicals and such, and I DO NOT use this machine for those types of loads.  I have another old conventional washer that I do that stuff in to save my baby LG from having to deal with such uncouth, loutish elements. :)  At the price of this machine, I don't want to stress it too much!\nSeriously, this machine is best for small families, apartment dwellers (ventless and 110V), empty-nest retirees, etc. But it cleans very well, leaves the clothes beautifully supple and \"finished,\" and does so quietly and at any time I choose to have the load done.  And no changing out loads, washer to dryer!  And it's an extremely cheerful little wonder!  Makes me smile every time it plays its little tunes.\nOk, you probably won't be happy with the machine if you don't match the guidelines above, but there are some setup and operational guidelines that, if not understood, will also cause you problems with the drying portion.  First, understand that this machine doesn't blast incredibly hot, cloth-destroying, costly air through the tumbling clothes in order to dry.  It uses a much more refined process that WILL dry your clothes, and WILL save you a boatload of money, but ONLY if you make sure that you set it up and use it correctly.\n1) I can't stress enough the importance of not overloading the machine during drying.  I weigh every load and NEVER load more than seven pounds of clothes - that's around half a load of dry towels, or somewhat less of things like jeans.  Since I sussed to this and started weighing my loads, I've NEVER had a load that wouldn't dry on the MORE DRY setting (I use that setting for everything EXCEPT small loads.  Word to the wise.)\n2) When I first received the machine, it would not dry a load, no matter how long I let the dryer run.  Puzzling.  I had the drain hose running UP to a drain standpipe like you find for conventional washing machines.  Fortunately I have another drain at floor level (the machine is in a barn my father built, and I have no idea why he had two drains there).  On a lark I moved the drain hose to the floor-level drain and WHAM! my clothes came out dry every time.\nOh, the humidity thing... I think that it does raise the humidity some in the immediate vicinity.  Mine is in an open area, so I can't swear to it, but it stands to reason that, if you have it draining into an open drain, some of the moisture might aerosolize or just mist back up into the room.  Probably best to have it in a place with some airflow - after all, it's not like it makes a racket and needs to be hidden from polite company.\nAnother word to the wise: You hear it over and over and for things like appliances you never do it... well, people, READ THE MANUAL.  You will NOT be sorry, especially when strange symbols like \"O\" or \"I E\" begin appearing on the screen (O means its time to run the tub-cleaning cycle.  I'll let you discover the wonderful world of I E yourself... and no, it doesn't mean fire up Internet Explorer).  If there is ONE key to unconditional love for this machine, it is understanding its foibles and idiosyncrasies.  You husbands out there will understand... :)\nIn summary, just let me say that you'd BETTER NOT come around and try to take away my LG! :)\n\nPeace, hope this helps...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4735, "id": 308328, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 716, "len_tokens": 800, "text": "I purchased this washing machine and dryer locally about one month ago. While my family is small (just my husband and myself as well as my toddler grandson part time), I needed a set that could wash my king size quilt collection adequately and quickly. My prior Whirlpool washing machine was a nightmare - it could never find its balance and took hours to complete the smallest loads. After three years of struggling with it and having repairmen tell me it was not something that could be fixed, we bought this new machine for our Christmas gift to ourselves. We bought the white set as it was less expensive but must admit the gray set is stunning. If it would have gone well with our house, we probably would have spent the extra to get the beautiful look. The machines are essentially the same - the color of the body is gloss white and the color of the electrical panel is silver rather than dark gray.\n\nI got the machines for a little less than the advertised price and had the local company install it. I was concerned that it might make my laundry room a little tight but in the end, it gave us more space across the room. The machines are wider and taller than a standard machine. Also, the opening is lower to the ground. I purposefully did not get the pedestal as I have had problems with them in the past. I was glad I did not as it would have made the height uncomfortably tall for me (I am 5' 6\") as I would be reaching up to put the detergent in. You need to be sure that the opening to your laundry area is at least 31 inches. Our laundry door had to come off as the opening was only 30 inches unless we removed the door. It took only a couple of minutes to remove it and then reinstall it.\n\nI have been able to wash larger loads - including my very largest and heaviest king size quilts with no issue at all. There are so many options that I have not been able to use them all but I can say that my laundry day went from a nightmare of at least one full day a week to less than a day every other week. I'm thrilled to get my time (and sanity) back.\n\nAs with my two prior front load machines, I keep the door of the unit open after wash day until the machine is completely dry. I've never had a mold issue using this routine.\n\nThe dryer has a huge capacity and dries my largest and heaviest quilts in less than 1.5 hours. That sounds like a lot but my previous Whirlpool took 3 to 4 hours to do the same task - plus I had to stop and move the quilt around several times during the dry cycle to make sure all the wet spots were exposed to heat. With this Samsung, I don't have to reconfigure the quilts at all. Just wait until they are dried and then fold them and put them away.\n\nWhile these machines are stackable and the dryer door opening can be changed, be sure you understand how tall this will be if you stack it. The dryer would be on the top and would be around seven feet off of the ground. I would do it in a new house if I needed to in order to have the capacity but I would also have to have a step ladder handy in order to set my dryer preferences.\nI chose not to get the pedestals for these as it would make putting detergent in an uncomfortable exercise. I am 5'6\" so if you are taller, that may not be an issue for you.\n\nI like the steam features and have used them a couple of times to get wrinkles out. It is a nice feature to have but it does pretty much what putting in a damp washcloth did before. Nice to have but wasn't a necessary item in making my choice. I really think that capacity is what these are all about. If you want a lot of space these may be just the thing for you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4736, "id": 317187, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 684, "len_tokens": 816, "text": "I had read many reviews, and had some concerns, but since I wanted a compact refrigerator of this size with no freezer, I decided to order one.  I bought the 4.4 cu ft model in stainless steel finish, all refrigerator, no freezer, no defrost necessary.\n\nThe packaging and delivery were fine.  Some reviews described flimsy packaging or damaged product at delivery or after opening the box.  Mine was delivered with a sturdy outer packing carton of heavy corrugated cardboard, which was not damaged.  We opened it at the top and discovered it had a layer of Styrofoam under the cover flap and all around the interior carton.  We opened the outside carton down the side, so we did not have to lift the unit up out of the box, or tip it sideways to pull the refrigerator out.  Inside we found a manufacturers carton.  It lifts off, and the refrigerator is sitting on a small pallet of Styrofoam and cardboard.  We lifted it off.  We found no damage or dangling coils as was described by some reviews.\n\nThere was a tough plastic film over the stainless finish on the door.  It was difficult to remove, but I suppose it served the purpose of protecting against scratches.  The shelves were heavily taped, I suppose to keep them in place during shipment.\n\nWe moved it into place and let the unit stand empty for about two hours, as recommended in the booklet.\n\nWe found that there was only one leveling foot, and it looked as if the design intending only one, a situation that puzzled me.  We moved it to its final position under the counter in the wet bar, and adjusted the leveling foot to its maximum position, but could not keep it from wobbling.  We inserted a shim under one corner and it is now steady and firm.\n\nAfter letting it rest and acclimate, we started it empty at the coldest setting, again as suggested in the instructions, and let it run for a couple hours.  It seemed to be sufficiently cool.  I then adjusted the coolness dial to a position in the middle and placed objects in it.  A few hours later, the contents seemed appropriately cooled.\n\nThe dial to adjust the temperature is at the front of the unit, at the top. It is a flat found dial, with a slot in it.  I could find no way to adjust the temperature except to use a coin or a small screwdriver turned sideways.  It was not convenient, but I do not intend to adjust it often.\n\nIt is a quiet unit; it makes only a quiet hum when it runs, and I do not notice any particular sounds as it cycles on and off.  I admit it is not where I am trying to sleep, but is not as loud as our central air conditioner or ceiling fan, as a comparison.\n\nI like the design of can storage, where a can may be removed from any slot, to allow a variety of beverages each readily removable.  The shelves adjust easily, and seem convenient for me.  If one wants to store a gallon of milk, it has to be on a main shelf, and not in the door.\n\nI like:\n* size - it fits under the counter in the wet bar, and provides the maximum space possible;\n* contains no freezer which wastes space and is not useful to me.\n* does not have to be defrosted;\n* was packaged well and arrived without damage\n\nI would suggest the manufacturer improve:\n* add another leveling foot or similar mechanism\n* change the design of the temperature adjustment dial, since it is difficult to change.\n\nI did not do any temperature measurements, so cannot comment on its actual temperature.  The items in it are not critical for temperature to me.\n\nIn conclusion, I did not experience many of the problems of other reviewers, and I like the functions and size of this compact refrigerator.  I would buy it again, and recommend it to others, especially if they want a unit without a freezer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4737, "id": 322415, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 691, "len_tokens": 857, "text": "Ambient Weather WM-3\nI have been using the WM-3 for a little over a week now and so far no problems.  I like to read reviews before I buy things, and I check  several sites like Amazon, Ebay, Walmart, Best Buy and places like that.  I also like reviews that are a little more than \"great product, highly recommended\", so I will try to give an honest opinion of whatever I review.\nThe WM-3 I received worked perfectly right out of the box. It is very easy to use and requires no setup before use.  Well almost none.  The users guide that came with it tells you how to calibrate the unit if you feel the need to.  I have a personal weather station, purchased from ambient several years ago, and I have been comparing the readings from the WM-3  with the readings from my station and they are very close.  I check my station readings with the readings from the Weather Nation, the Weather Underground and others so I know that my readings are very accurate.\nIf you look around the web for handheld wind meters you will find dozens of options any where from $20 dollars to well over $300 dollars.  So, what do you get in the high priced units that you don't get in the WM-3.  I really don't know.  This is my first time to use a wind meter.  Maybe more bells and whistles.  Some of the high dollar units have a lot of buttons, and will give you wind chill, heat index, barometer, dew point,  text messages, your horoscope.  OK, maybe not.  Personally I think most people looking at handheld wind meters just want to know what the wind speed is and maybe the temp, and don't want to press half a dozen buttons to see it.  The WM-3 has 3 buttons and they are very easy to understand. A power button to turn it off and on, a set button to show Max, min, and average wind speed, and a units button to select how wind speed is displayed, mph, knots, km/hr, etc.  Temp is displayed in degrees \"F\" or \"C\".  It also has a backlight feature that I like.  It comes on when you power the unit on but goes off after a few seconds.  You can override this and have it stay on until you power the unit off.  The users manual tells you how to do this.  The unit will power off after 10 minutes of non use and this is a good thing to save your battery.  I know, I can hear someone out there saying,  why buy this gadget when I have a weather APP on my smart phone.  I also have a couple of these on my phone.  But keep in mind that this data is for your local area, probably your zip code, and not the very spot where you are standing,  which may be very important if you are a hunter, fishermen, golfer, high rise construction, or other outdoor activity where knowing the wind speed my be very important.  Myself,I just like weather gadgets. The uses manual does not say anything about being water proof or water resistant, however, a little common since is in order.  The battery cover does not have a seal and the unit does not appear to be water proof.  A light rain should not be a problem, but I don't think it will float.  As for max wind speed the manual says not to operate above 67 mph.  I did a little test using my backpack blower. Seriously, I really did this.  I set the blower on a workbench and with it set to fast idle, I held the WM-3 several feet away and moved closer until I reached a reading of 73 MPH.  The users manual says that wind speed above 67 mph will be displayed as\"---\".  Probably just minor variation from one unit to the next.  I realize that this is a little extreme and that no one would want to be out in a 70 mph windstorm, but the WM-3 held together just fine.  It still works.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4738, "id": 323800, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 722, "len_tokens": 861, "text": "I purchased this primarily to use as a beer fridge and have been very happy overall.\nPros:  Maintains a constant and low temp, looks more expensive than it is, versatile under cabinet or standalone options\nCons: Reversing the door isn't as easy as it should be, not super quiet but could be worse\n\nTemperature:\nThe biggest reason I purchased this compressor-style fridge over the quieter thermo-electric ones is for temperature control.  I've owned thermo-electric wine fridges in the past and the temp was good enough for storing wine but they generally had trouble maintaining a temp below 45-50.  For beer I wanted a lower temp, I've got this fridge set on 40 and it has no problem keeping it there while the average room temperature is 75.\n\nCapacity:\nObviously if you use it to store bottles instead of cans you're not going to fit 92 in there, the best configuration I've found is to put 1 shelf in the lowest position and another a couple of notches up.  This gives you 2 shelves of bottle-height storage (approx 24 bottles per shelf) and a small bottom area to store 3-4 large bottles on their side.  One issue I had was that the spacing on the wire shelves was a little far apart and it made the bottles want to tip over unless you carefully placed each one on the shelf.  I fixed this by getting an 11x17 acrylic sheet (intended for a picture frame) and placing that on top of the shelf, it fits perfectly, is virtually invisible and gives you a smooth shelf surface.\n\nNoise:\nThis fridge has a traditional compressor for cooling so it is not nearly as quiet as the thermo-electric wine cooler sitting next to it but far quieter than the kegerator this unit replaced.  I haven't pulled out the decibel-meter for it but it is approximately as loud as my full size kitchen refrigerator.  The compressor doesn't make any extra rattling when it turns on but there is no mistaking when it is running and when it's not.  There's a little extra noise on top of the compressor noise since this uses a fan to circulate the air out of the front of the unit.  All in all it's still quieter than my old kegerator and since I have mine located in the kitchen it doesn't add any noise above and beyond what my normal refrigerator does.\n\nDoor Reversal:\nThis was ridiculously more complicated than it should have been and I can't imagine this was designed to work like it did, so it's very likely there was a defect in my unit.  If you're happy with the handle being on the left then you're in luck and will never have to deal with this, if not, proceed with caution.  The door reversal process is a bit of a pain but for the most part pretty straight forward.  You essentially have to unscrew all of the brackets/hinges and switch them to the other side.  The issue I had was the bracket that attached to the bottom of the door itself.  There are 2 screws on the bottom left that you have to remove and then use to attach the bracket to the bottom of the door.  The \"trick\" is that when you remove both screws, the nut that was holding those screws falls out of place and somewhere into the hollow door frame.  From there you get to spend the next hour playing a game of shifting the door around and listening for the nut until you're lucky enough to have that nut line back up with the holes.  Again, I can't imagine this was working as it was intended so maybe my unit was missing the bit of glue supposed to hold that nut in place but it was an absurdly frustrating experience and is the only reason I didn't give the fridge 5 stars.\n\nOther:\nOne final note, this wasn't explicitly spelled out in the instructions but to attach the door handle, you need to pull off the rubber seal from the inside of the door where the screw holes for the handle are.  I was a little skeptical when I did this because it takes a good pull to get it off but it doesn't damage the seal and it pops back into place fairly easily.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4739, "id": 325210, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 694, "len_tokens": 810, "text": "So I am changing my review from 5 star to 2 after using this more. First it is advertised as having a new easy-close drawer in Spring of 2015 but after one week of use ( I ordered near the end of May) the drawer was pretty useless, it takes about 11 tries to shut it, which brings too cool much air into the food if you are checking on your food and don't want the cool down.\n\nSecond, when I looked at Youtube videos for other air fryers and then compared some personally (which I had to to figure out recipes to make with this one since it does not come with a cookbook and tells you to \"Google recipes on the internet\"), they seemed to work far better without any oil, or with very little oil. I feel this one is not as meant to be used with no oil. And actually it says so. For example, it has one recipe in the instructions which is for french fries, and it tells you to use 1/2 Tablespoon of oil. That's lots of calories not including the potato! . For everything else air fried, although it does not provide recipes, it does have a chart that says all should be cooked with 1/2 tablespoon of oil--even hamburgers already loaded with oil! That said a lot to me that you have to use that much oil in this one whereas you don't in the other air fryers. I suspect slower air circulation and less tightness in the air circulation or more air escaping because where other fryers advertise very little aroma, this one fills your kitchen with it. Not sure it keeps all the hot air in to mimic frying..which would be why you would need so much oil in the air fryer. To me this is like cooking in an oven--you get dry food and need oil to get the crispness.\n\nAnd yes, it also dries my food out, badly, more than baking in the oven even. Unless I use lots of oil\n\nI was initially impressed when doing some vegetarian prepared foods but the more I used it the more I realized I just had food baked at a high temp that looked nothing like the videos I saw of the other air fryers and did not perform as well as the ones I saw in person, and a drawer that took so many tries to close that the temp cooled down on the food.\n\nFor that reason I exchanged it for a different air fryer. I went with the Philips, more expensive, but one reason it might work so much better is that after this one preheats, it shuts off. Or if you pull out the drawer, it shuts off. That's a huge issue when you are trying to mimic high temp frying. So you get it preheated, pull the drawer out, put your fries in (on the Philips you will hear the sound of sizzling when you add the food, you won't on this one.) then slide the drawer in (takes about 8 times) by then all the preheating is out the window and you know how badly that works for fried food. With the Philips, it keeps the hot air going (and circulates it way faster) so it's still hot when you start.\n\nIn the end, this baked things and got some items more crispy, but even potato wedges were dry unless I followed their instructions for lots of oil. If I need to do that, I can just use the oven and have nothing on my counter, so I will try a brand that has some better features.\n\nIncluding a drawer that opens.\n\nNote that it says the way this fries is by circulating the air all around it. Well, if that worked you could just lay something on a shelf in the oven with holes in it. You need a very powerful motor that rapidly circulates the air..which this does not, to mimic the fried crispiness but keep the moisture in. The slow circulation of this just means you crisp the outside some and dry out your food.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4740, "id": 329523, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 690, "len_tokens": 818, "text": "I received a free item to review.\n\nAnd I cant think of a more accurate description: the ice cubes are shaped like hollowed-out rounded cones, not the semi-circular solids many refrigerator built-ins produce nor the classic cube shape you get with plastic trays in the freezer (I can remember when the trays were aluminum, with a pull-up release lever).\n\nIve had these cone-shaped cubes with drinks before and one advantage is theres less displacement in the glass so you get more of what you're drinking. And some people enjoy the mini-frosted-mug effect. The downside is if you enjoy sucking on, sloshing around, and biting down on your ice cubes, the cone shape tends to break down quickly as the rounded walls thin down.\n\nIt takes just over a 6-cup Brita pitcher-full of water to fill the icemaker to the max indicator  its nice that the indicator doubles as a ledge for the cube basket and is easy to see rather than a raised line I have to squint or feel around for. The compartment lid stays open by itself so pouring is comfortable.\n\nIts very easy to operate  the start/standby button displays either a solid snowflake icon (standby) or a blinking one (running). Select from three sizes of cubes that are noticeably different (although all are cone-shaped). Theres a Set button for the clock and auto-on/off timer function you program similarly to digital clocks on stereos and microwaves.\n\nUnfortunately the buttons are press tabs rather than actual buttons, but they protrude enough that the response is adequate.\n\nYoull have to read the instruction page to identify the other warning icons and to troubleshoot: low water, jammed cube, etc. Theyre not intuitive and not terribly easy to see with the lit-LCD screen facing straight out, but I didn't encounter any if the handful of times Ive used the unit so far.\n\nSpeaking of facing, of the three icemaker models Ivation offers in this class, this one closely resembles our Japanese rice cooker in shape and color and makes for a nice pairing on our storage island.\n\nThat said the ice maker is quite big sitting on our countertop  larger than our rice cooker and deeper than our coffeemaker. Its the kind of unit wed expect to haul out when entertaining, while we rely on our refrigerators built-in for everyday crushed ice and small cubes.\n\nIt took about two hours to make medium and small-sized cubes using just about all of the water Id poured in. The unit will detect and go into standby when the basket is full so theres no worry about overflow. I emptied the basket twice, the first time at about the one hour mark.\n\nOne thing to be aware of: changing cube sizes in the middle of a run (after youve emptied the basket and resuming with water still in the unit) doesnt take effect immediately.  With about half the water remaining I still got mostly medium-sized cubes before the small-size finally kicked in.\n\nThe drain plug is positioned in the back lower right side corner and its easy to tilt the ice maker over the edge of a sink and twist the cap off  and pull out the little push seal.  I suppose that makes for a more secure seal with the unit typically on a countertop, but theres no mention in the instructions and it took awhile to figure out why the water wouldnt draining! An extra push seal is included underneath the basket along with the cube shovel.\n\nThe noise of the compressor is slightly less than what I hear with the refrigerator door open. Theres no detectable vibration while the unit operates. The intermittent sounds are water flowing into the evaporator chamber and the cubes themselves clanking into the basket.\n\nBottom Line: The ice maker is well-made and attractive  though too large to keep permanently on our (not so large countertop). The hollow cone-shaped cubes are an acquired taste but if you entertain a lot and need to crank out more ice than the fridge can handle (or you don't have a built-in), its a handy and easy-to-use addition.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4741, "id": 329726, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 756, "len_tokens": 828, "text": "If you are looking to invest in a great ice maker this is an excellent option. This portable ice maker is about the size of my breadmaker and sits easily on the end of my kitchen counter. You have to make sure the air outlet is 8-10 inches away from the nearest wall or object. This is easy to do if you place this on the end of a counter.\n\nWhat I like about this particular ice maker is that you can watch the entire process of ice making through a see-through window. What happens is the ice is made in a little tray. The water is put under the ice basket and is sucked up into the ice tray. The ice forms around metal and is then released into the ice basket with a little mechanical shovel.\n\nTo fill up the ice basket it takes 77 minutes so one hour and seventeen minutes later you have three large glasses of ice. Once you empty the basket it will then continue to create ice for another fifty six minutes. So to make a gallon bag of ice takes 133 minutes and uses up a little less than two quarts of water. This is actually a lot faster than most freezers produce ice.\n\nI personally like the large sized ice but there is an option for smaller ice too. I noticed that the ice this initially makes tends to be smaller than the ice made a little later. So each time the water is colder and produces bigger ice cubes (well they really look like little hollow thimbles).\n\nSetup is easy once you've read the directions. You simply fill with water and push the start button. Then each batch of ice takes about seven minutes to make. You can use tap water, filtered water or bottled water. Whatever you prefer. The taste of the ice will change with each option. I made some ice with tap water and it tasted OK in a drink.\n\nWhat you don't want to do is use this to make ice ahead of time. If you put the slightly wet ice cubes in the freezer they do tend to freeze together. It is best to use this as a source of ice that you are going to use on a consistent basis like at a small party where ice is needed for an extended period of time. Remember you are going to get about three large glasses of ice per hour. You can however remove ice for smaller glasses at any time. The hinged lid opens easily and does not restrict taking ice out even if the ice maker is in operation. I would however recommend caution as this does have moving parts. You want to keep your hands only on the ice scoop and take ice directly out of the basket.\n\nSo my only real caution would be that this ice maker should be kept away from children. It is not a toy! Even if it feels like it is.\n\nOne thing the directions don't state is what to do with the leftover water in the ice tray once the low water indicator comes on. I simply tilted the entire ice maker so the water ran down into the water container. Then I drained out the water leftover by removing the plug while sitting the ice maker over the sink. It was pretty easy. If you were making ice for a party then you would have to refill the water quite a few times over a period of hours. You have to refill the water approximately every 133 minutes. The ice maker will stop once the basket is full. The minute you remove the ice it starts making it again. You could keep extra ice in an ice bucket.\n\nI found this ice maker great fun to use and I loved the shapes of the ice. I made myself some ice tea with the first batch of ice and it was great. I can see myself using this a lot in the summer although this ice maker is not for outside use. You should also keep it out of direct sunlight as that will cause the infared sensor to malfunction. Also this does make a little sound mostly like a fan running. It is fairly quiet. The loudest noise you will hear is when the ice drops and is put into the basket.\n\n~The Rebecca Review\n\nI received one ice maker free for review. This review is my honest opinion.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4742, "id": 329739, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 654, "len_tokens": 806, "text": "My wife bought this on a lightening deal last year, and I just got around to setting it up. The manual is actually written in very good English, not the horrible random characters that frequently accompany Chinese products. It took about thirty minutes to read the manual, unpack, clean, set up, fill with water and start using.\n\nThe product is almost all plastic inside, though it appears to be decent quality plastic. Here's how it works:  The ice maker fillis the top compartment with water. The \"large\" cubes are made by filling the compartment higher, and a lower level produces the \"small\" cubes. There are nine or ten metal rods that protrude down into the water. The rods cool, and the water freezes around the rods. After a few minutes, the tank drains, a rake retracts and the rods heat up, dropping the ice that has frozen around them.\n\nHere's what I don't like:\n--The inside is not cooled, so on a warm day the ice melts (but not as quickly as I'd expect).\n--The ice cubes are partially hollow, shaped like those erasers that fit over the top of a pencil. This creates ice with a surface area nearly double than that of a cylinder.  The ice will cool a liquid faster than a straight cylinder.  If you're drinking water, this is acceptable, but not if you're drinking anything else.\n--The water tank is on the bottom, and the finished ice is in a tray on top. Heat rises, so the air inside circulates backward--warm air rising toward your ice and cooler air down onto the water.  The design should have a tank on the side, in my opinion, though there is one benefit---the melting ice drips through slots in the ice tray into the water storage, so there isn't drainage.\n\nAfter the first few cycles, ice has much thicker walls, presumably because the water it uses is getting. It appears to me that the best thing to do is to run it for a while (maybe an hour?) then empty tthe tray into a container put it tnto the freezer.\n\nI noticed that some reviewers are complaining that mold (mildew?) develops inside. According to the manual, you should empty the tank after 24 hours. I think I'm going to empty it nightly, wipe it down and leave the cover open.\n\nAt first glance, this appears to be worth the money we paid for it. I'll try to remember to update this review after using the icemaker for a while.\n\nUpdate 1::  9/3/17. After I had it on for about two hours, I went to check it and found that the \"Tray Full\" light was on and, indeed, the tray was full.  I removed the ice and poured it into a container.  The cubes on the bottom were half-melted, as I thought they would be.  I left the machine off for fifteen minutes (the manual says to wait three minutes before turning it back on to allow the coolest to settle), then turned it on to make some more. Fortunately, I watched it instead of walking away.  The machine began pumping water into the ice maker, but didn't stop when it was full. Instead, the water started overflowing and dropping back into the reservoir, never turning off. I turned the machine off and checked the date we purchased it (December, 2015) to see if it was still under warranty (nope). I opened the door to let it dry, in the hope that it might start working again.  I looked inside to see if I could clean or clear the water-full sensor, but I couldn't find the sensor.  I'll contact Amazon to see if I have any hope of a refund, but I have little hope. I'm going to take a picture of the ice cubes it made and my wife and I will each have a $50 glass of ice water.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4743, "id": 330511, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 730, "len_tokens": 858, "text": "I've had several weather stations over the years.  For the most part, they're life expectancy seems to be about 3 years on average. Then they start to give screwy readings or just die.  Every once in a while you run into something when shopping that technology just hasn't been able to tackle as far as reliability yet.  This seems to be the case with home weather stations like this.  There are hardly any on Amazon that has a good proportion of solid positive reviews.  So far this one at the time of this wrting is about average...\n\nAs for my own evaluation of it, I have to admit I didn't have any problems setting it up, and actually found it quite easy.  Either the direction booklet that comes with it has been redesigned, or some people just didn't receive one.  For I had this up and running with the settings adjusted in about 15 minutes.  Admittedly I haven't messed with the alarm part of it for I never have any intention of using it as one. Nor have I looked into using the memory feature.  I have never used either on any weather station I have had in the past.  But setting the time, zone for the weather forecast, and the overall set up of the outside sensor was easy and worked just as described.  Though the sensor and home unit paired very quickly, allow plenty of time for the sensor to adjust to the outside temp as to its being an accurate reading.  I set this up outside, ( on a screw I installed myself.  No hardware of any kind is included with this) and it took over an hour for the temperature to lower itself to what it really was outside.  Since then it has given an accurate temp compared to other readings in the area.  Also, no batteries came with this either, and it takes 5 AAs altogether....And although I have seen others mention a humidity readout, I can't find it on mine.  But that is no real importance to me.  Everyone that is truly into weather knows its the dew point that is the true measure of how muggy and uncomfortable is outside, and the humidity statistic doesn't really mean squat. No loss there as far as I am concerned...Lastly, I have to agree with some of the other reviewers here that so far the forecast icon is nothing to depend on for sure.  It's been showing clouds during several days of bright sun, and vice versa.  But once in a while it manages to get it right....\n\nAlthough this weather station has a back light on it, its activated by a button on the back.  That's kind of a pain and it would be much easier if it were in front as part of the base or something, but at least it has one.  My biggest complaint with this station is the fact that you cannot wall mount it.  It is set up with its wide base as a stand alone table top unit with no flat back for mounting on a wall. This is a big miss for me since I have the perfect spot for one on a wall and it can't be used there.  Maybe some people like these things on a desk or table but I prefer the wall and that's out with this thing.  Opinions may vary but I am taking one star off for that.  It's not mentioned in the description that its limited to a table or desk and one has to rely on reviews for the info.  That being said, overall I am so far satisfied with this unit for the price, which is one of the cheaper ones on Amazon. As for its reliability, time will tell. If this unit fails for any reason within what I consider an unreasonable amount of time I will be back to update this review.  But for now it was easy to set up and is working perfectly..  Recommended...\n\nFree sample provided in exchange for an honest review...\n\nUpdate.  The outdoor sensor on this has quit working after less than 3  months.  It no longer is sending the temp, and it is in a protected area and the battery is fine.  I've seen this happen often in cheap units and there is no excuse for it.  No longer recommended by me....", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4744, "id": 340957, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 662, "len_tokens": 823, "text": "Have been looking at this brand for years.  Serially frustrated with my HE washer dryers.  Purchased stacked Maytags front loaders when we moved into our house in 2001.  Constant problems leaking, towels smelled like mildew.  Multiple repairs required.  Renovated in 2010 and purchased Electrolux IQ series.  Washer constantly broke.  Easily 8 repair visits - multiple leaks, broken soap dispenser, ripped gasket and of course smelly towels and mildew all over the gasket.  The washer finally could not be repaired in 2016 so we replaced with Speed Queen washer dryers with electronic controls about two weeks ago.  So far, could not be more thrilled.  Towels don't smell like mildew, my Under Armour (sp?) work out clothes no longer smell like sweat after having been washed.  In general everything comes out smelling fresher than ever did with HE machines.  Machines are quiet enough.  The dryer dries.  The washer drum is plenty big - I am not sure what it can't handle but it looks big.  There was a layer of grease in the washer which I cleaned out with windex - note, the directions do recommend cleaning the washer and dryer drums out before operation.  I would not have known about this issue but for my reading of reviews online.  I don't normally read directions on anything before operation.\n\nI have attached two pictures. One is a before and after of a rust covered rag I used to wipe out all of the standing water and rust  in a galvanized metal tray the Electrolux was sitting in.  I hit the rag with spray and wash before washing in the new Speed Queen.  I took out and hit with more spray and wash and washed again.  You can see how almost perfect this rag looked after doing that with an incredibly difficult to clean stain without using bleach or trying really hard to clean it.  I have also attached a picture of me ecstatically taking in the bouquet of a very fresh smelling Speed Queen washed hang drying work out shirt.  No sweat odor at all.  Purchased from Marsillios in Fairfield CT.  They are now selling hundreds of these machines a year.\n\nAlso, this machine is not particularly rough on clothes.  Seems to be about same as previous HE models.  I have seen rough in some vacation homes we have stayed in; this machine is not rough.\n\nI hate to say this and it sounds paranoid, but I think Consumer Reports, which says these machines clean less well than HE models, is biased on this issue and this is reflected in their review.  They love HE because it saves water.\n\n2 Month Update\n\nSadly, am tempering my initial enthusiasm in that the machine has already broken down.  It stopped draining one day.  Repairman came 5 days later and had to order a part.  Hopefully, that will arrive soon and that will be the end of problems.  Revising my rating downward to 4 stars.  I will revise upward if the machine is consistently reliable after this fix.\n\nFurther Update\n\nPart was installed.  It was a new pump. It turns out that a sock was stuck in the pump.  This did not surprise me because it was one of the issues suggested in a Google search when washing machines fail to drain.  Instruction from the repairman, was do not over fill the washer.  On a related note, there was an instruction in the install manual but not in the user manual to put a quart of water into the tub prior to first use to prevent the pump from overheating and degrading its gaskets.  I did not see this instruction and I don't recall my installers pouring water into the tub.  That apparently did not cause the issue but it could cause one.  So, that's another caveat when operating one of these machines.  I will update this review at some point, hopefully to the upside \"when\" the machine operates without further issues for a length of time.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4745, "id": 340990, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 657, "len_tokens": 852, "text": "I recently purchased this Speed Queen AWNE92SP washer and I'm completely impressed with it after two months of use.  The washer weighs a ton and is built in the USA by a company that has built reliable washing machines for decades.  Forget about buying a throw-away top load HE washer from another manufacturer.  The other brands have all kinds of digital lights, sound effects and stupid features but they aren't made to last more than about 2-4 years.  Read the reviews on Amazon and then read the Speed Queen Reviews.  The other HE washers don't even use enough water to clean and rinse your clothes properly.\n\nPros:\n  - The Speed Queen fills up all the way to the top.\n  - It uses HOT water (same temperature from the tap) and doesn't MIX hot/cold like the other machines (except on ECO cycle!)\n  - Never use the NORMAL/ECO mode as this mode doesn't give you true HOT water, gives you a spray rinse and a SLOW spin cycle.\n  - Commercial & Heavy Duty Machine, you can feel the quality\n  - No Lid Lock (you can throw in a sock or extra towel after the machine has started) see YouTube videos on how to defeat lid lock\n  - Quick wash cycles (The WHITES and HEAVY DUTY CYCLES are finished in 30-40 minutes.)  HE machines take 70-100 minutes for a wash cycle and your clothes are still moldy and dirty.\n  - The Wash Timer is accurate.  Most HE machines I've used have inaccurate wash timers.\n  - You can defeat the lid lock feature and watch the cycle run through with the lid open.  Just put a clothespin on the trigger on the back.\n  - On BULKY cycle, it provides a slow and solid agitation that doesn't ruin your clothes\n  - You can see your clothes rolling in the water instead of grinding around.\n  - Use WHITE or HEAVY DUTY for sheets, towels, kitchen rags, etc...  This provides a fast agitation and fast rinse agitation, fast spin cycle.\n  - No Musty mildew smell inside\n  - This machine actually uses sufficient water to wash your clothes.  Other HE washers just grind your clothes up with barely any water.\n  - All Rinse cycles (EXCEPT NORMAL/ECO) are a FULL TUB COLD RINSE with full agitation.\n  - the timer feature is amazing and allows you to put clothes and detergent in with a start delay.  Clothes don't sit in the washer wet all night.\n  - This machine has 2nd and 3rd rinses for allergy sufferers who are sensitive to detergents.\n  - I have read online of some people adding TSP (TriSodium Phosphate) into the machine to improve cleaning performance.  I haven't tried it yet.  The government also took Phosphates out of our detergent, but TSP can be added in small quantities to keep your whites clean.\n\nCons\n  - With the Lid Lock feature defeated it can be dangerous with the lid open during a spin cycle.  Don't even think of sticking a hand in there or you'll end up with a broken arm for sure.\n  - The machine isn't super quiet.  It makes a soft humming sound when agitating.  Much less annoying than the clicks and grinds that the HE machines make.  Mine is mounted in the garage so it's not a big deal.\n\nYou won't regret your purchase:  If you are fed up with your current HE machine that take forever to wash, breaks down every few months, leaves a mildew scent on your clothes, doesn't take out stains, wears out your clothes by grinding the fabrics against each other with no water, leaves your clothes with detergent residue due to inadequate \"energy saving\" rinse cycles, ties all of your clothes in a knot that is almost impossible to untie.  The list goes on and on for these HE machines.\n\nIn Summary, Speed Queen - Excellent Product that focuses on what the customer needs reliability and clean clothes.  It's old school, but built to last.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4746, "id": 340996, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 689, "len_tokens": 846, "text": "Hi Everyone,\n  My family and I recently purchased a Speed Queen Top Loader AWNE92SP113TW01 and it has drastically changed our lives for the better!\n\nWe previously owned a High Efficiency LG top loader and at that the time we were researching washers...this LG was highly recommended with raving reviews including an editors choice award at Consumer Reports and various positive reviews around the internet. Needless to say, we were hopeful and all considering...it performed satisfactory for a few months. We even got an extended warranty just in case. Unfortunately, we soon headed down a path of endless frustration (including the dreaded UNBALANCED error). I could easily sit here and recount our horror stories with this washer, but I would only be repeating similar stories mentioned by others....so let's get to the good part!\n\nSpeed Queen! Allow me to first and foremost point out the most significant advantage (In my mind) of a Speed Queen washer. It is the MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY. Not an extended warranty from a 3rd party! These 3rd party service providers are in business because they profit more from obtaining extended warranty contracts than paying in services rendered. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with this but there is a HUGE difference between an Extended Warranty from a 3rd party provider and a REAL MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY where the company who actually makes the product is putting their money where their mouth is and truly guaranteeing quality and reliability.\n\nJust the other day, I walked in Home Depot and Loews and I looked closely at every single warranty for every washer on the floor...from the cheapest to the most expensive. Everyone one of those washer had a manufacturers warranty that was no longer than 1 YEAR!!!! Sure, the top end washer had a big sticker on it that said 10 YEAR WARRANTY but then in fine print I discovered that the 10 years was for the motor only which they don't even make! At best, the manufacturers warranties are 1 year parts and labor. So you're telling me, that if I spend $1500 on a washer and use it exactly as direct by the operators manual and maintain it in pristine condition, the manufacturer can only promise that it will work for ONE YEAR???? I find this absurd.\n\nEnter - Speed Queen.  Let me get to the point here.... When I found out that the MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY for a Speed Queen washer was 5 YEARS including ALL PARTS and IN-HOUSE LABOR, 15 years on the motor and transmission, and LIFETIME guarantee on the wash bucket (UNDER COMMERCIAL USE CONDITIONS! that's more than 10,000 wash cycles)........I WAS SOLD.  Not to mention, that it actually works incredibly well! Clothes are clean and cycles are FAST (just under 28 minutes). It is built like a tank, probably weighs more than double your average washer, and will remind you of the appliances of days gone by! You know that old saying, \"They don't make them like they use to!\" In this case THEY DO!!!! Its called a Speed Queen and they are made right here the USA! It's a real American home grown company.  Now, they're not cheap but they're certainly not the most expensive either. I paid $875 for the latest Top Loader (see above model #) - so not bad. PLEASE don't be discouraged by the tub size at 3.3 cubic feet. Our LG was 5.0 and to be honest we don't miss it and we have a big family! We have 4 boys and the in-laws under one roof...so that's 8 of us and the Speed Queen out performs all of our previous washers by LEAPS and BOUNDS in every category!!!\n\nIt may be hard to believe, but I am not an employee of Speed Queen, nor do sell them or get a single penny for what I'm saying here today. I'm just a Dad who was at the end of my rope with my family's disenchantment with the modern day he washers, but those days are thankfully now behind us!\n\nThe SPEED QUEEN love affair.......you just have to own one to understand!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4747, "id": 342255, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 696, "len_tokens": 856, "text": "My title sums it up and here's the logic to support it:\n\nFirst, I'll address the quality issue: The OEM Samsung brand filter, which is made in Mexico, a country with which we have direct involvement in the manufacturing of products that are exported to the U.S versus this brand, which is made in China, a country with which we have zero input into quality control. Let's look deeper: What do we control, regardless of where it's manufactured? We control, through the FDA, labeling. The Samsung brand filter clearly states the filtering capabilities on the package. This filter makes no water quality claims whatsoever. The Chinese are not stupid. If they made a superior product that sells for less money, the details, including the filtering data would be plastered in big print on the packaging. If you think you're getting an equal to or better filter then you're living in Fantasyland.\n\nSecond is the warranty issue: If you read your Samsung's  refrigerator owner's manual thoroughly, you'll learn that using a non Samsung filter voids your refrigerator's warranty. If you bought an extended warranty this could be an important issue.\n\nFinally, so many people write reviews claiming they buy these things thinking they're brilliant because they're saving so much money. Well, I suggest they sit down and do the math. On the day I'm writing this review, this filter is selling at Amazon for $26.99. The Samsung brand \"Samsung Da29-00020b Refrigerator Water Filter, 1-pack\" is selling for $33.27. Now, let's do the math. $33.27 minus $26.99 = $6.28 more for the Samsung brand. Assuming we buy one of these every six months that works out to less than $1.05 more per month for the Samsung brand ($6.28 divided by 6 months = $1.04666667 more per month). Looking closer we divide 30 days into $1.05 and Voila! buying this product will save us less than a whopping 3 1/2 cents per day! I don't think that saving would even be meaningful to a homeless person. So, if this is truly a meaningful savings to anyone, I suggest they find a container or sandwich-sized Zip Lock baggie and put a nickel a day into it for six months. When it's time to buy your new higher quality Samsung brand filter, not only will you have more than enough money to pay for the difference in price but you may even be able to buy a few sticks of chewing gum as well.\n\nPlease stop with the reviews with outrageously extreme views that are not supported by data and accept the fact, that in this instance, you may not be as smart as you think you are.\n\nMy intent is not to be rude but rather to show, that when reviewing products such as these it's not at all difficult to use common sense, logic, and basic math skills to prevent oneself from making claims that simply do not add up to meaning much of anything.\n\nI'm no genius but I do have a college education with a degree in accounting, finance, and my favorite class in college was logic and favorite activity was participating on debate teams. I'm retired now but worked for thirty years as a finance estimator for a Fortune 500 company and made countless presentations on whether or not it made sense to pursue a project from a financial standpoint. Providing supporting data for conclusions was always required. Blanket statements that \"we should do it because it's cheaper,\" just don't fly without common sense support. So, while I may come off as a snob; I'm really only trying to show the value in critical thinking and not making blanket statements based upon emotion as opposed to fact.\n\nAnother example I've seen on these pages is \"The water quality is just as good because it tastes just as good and is just as clear\". This is another fallacy. Water quality cannot be determined by looks or taste; When we're talking about PPM (parts per million) of things, which is precisely what we're alluding to with water quality, have the water tested; something that's relatively inexpensive, before making such claims about water quality.\n\nCiao for now!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4748, "id": 343081, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 709, "len_tokens": 848, "text": "The filter does look a bit different from the original 4396508 that I was using but I was able to install it. My refrigerator is a Kenmore (actually a Whirlpool) side by side 106.53332300 (purchased back in 2003). I was concerned about reviews regarding this filter not working so I wrote to the company and I will include their response to me in my review. I've attached a photo of what the manufacturer info says on my filter package and as you will see from the response from Whirlpool, the filters made by 3M may be an issue for older refrigerators.\n--------------------------\nThank you for contacting Whirlpool Consumer Direct Sales through our website.\nI am happy to assist you with your water filter questions.\nYou are correct. Your replacement water filter is EDR5RXD1. That being said, we have noticed that older model refrigerators in the 8-10 year old range or older have had some issues with one of our newer filter. We do have two manufactures for this filter and with these models we have noticed that one will work and the other will be very difficult to install. It is possible but very difficult. Our engineers are working on a solution to this issue.\nIf you order directly from us, our warehouse will ship what they have in stock and we have no control over which one they ship. If you are purchasing your filter at the store you can differentiate which one you are purchasing. On the bottom left side of the box you will see where it says \"manufactured for Whirlpool\" then it will say by.. and it will either say Kemflo or 3M for the manufacturer. If you look at the old filter you have been using you will either see it is flat at the top or has cut out notches in the top. One of these two filters will match the one that you have been using. I believe it is the one made by Kemflo that is working with the older models.\nWe do have a 30 day return policy and a 90 day warranty so if you do order by phone and get one that doesn't work we would replace it for you. As of right now we just have no way to know which one the warehouse will be shipping. We hope to have a better solution for you soon. I do apologize for the inconvenience.\nThank you for your email. Have a great day.\nIf you have any additional questions or concerns, you may also reach our retail parts department at 1-800-901-2042 and choose the water filters option. Our hours of operation are Monday through Friday 8:00 a.m.to 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time.\nYou are a valued Whirlpool customer and we appreciate your support of the Whirlpool Brand. Thank you for allowing us the opportunity to assist you today. Have a good day!\nSincerely,\nBillie P.\nWhirlpool Consumer Direct Sales\n\n-------------------------------------\nThe reason I gave 4 stars instead of 5 is because I find it very upsetting that there is this manufacturing issue where if you order the filter on any online source even through Whirlpool you can't know if it will fit until you get it!. With the original filter I never had to worry about that because it always worked. I sincerely hope Whirlpool will take this seriously and solve this engineering issue soon.\n\n----------------------------------------\nNew Update, The filter I got from Amazon was the one made in Mexico. Although I was able to install it (it had a rounded top), my refrigerator had small water leaks at the dispenser for the 6 months that it was installed. It was minor or I would have changed the filter sooner but still annoying considering it is supposed to be the correct filter. Now I have the correct filter that I had to spend more money to purchase in town, made by Kemflo that has the notches on top and fits correctly. I downgraded my review to 2 stars because of the problem with having 2 manufacturers that make this same filter different causing fit and use issues.\n\nBasically, you will be taking your chances buying this filter online because you won't know which one you will get..", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4749, "id": 346274, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 679, "len_tokens": 899, "text": "I purchased the \"Wonder Washer\" because my washing machine is out of commission, and I need something for those in-between trips to the laundrymat more bearable. As it turns out, this little washer meets my needs quite nicely, and I will continue to use it even well after the washing machine gets fixed. So, here's the deal:\n\n* The Wonder Washer is not a substitute for a washing machine. No, seriously, it's not.\n* The thing is made of cheap plastic. Handle and store with care.\n* It's essentially a giant blender, without the fancy modes and buttons. The first button, \"Timer\", gives the option of setting the time for up to fifteen minutes. The second button, \"Program,\" allows you to set this puppy to \"Standard\" or \"Gentle.\"\n* Oh, and there is no, \"rinse cycle.\"\n\nHow to use:\n\n* Add dirty garments; don't overcrowd.\n* Add water; don't go over the line.\n* Add dollop of detergent.\n* Once it's plugged, adjust to desired settings.\n* It'll turn on, spin, turn off, then spin the other way. It's okay; it's supposed to do that.\n\nWhen it's finished, manually drain the bucket (that means lug it to the bathtub and pour down the drain), wring your things out, and proceed to stuff them in the dryer or hang to dry.\n\nNow, lets talk about what kinds of things you CAN and CAN'T wash. Things you CAN wash include: bra's, boxers, underwear, undershirts, camisoles, socks and gloves, tights, leggings, tee shirts, summer dresses, skinny jeans, baby garb, pet costumes, tea towels, and doilies. Essentially, if it's small or lightweight, you can wash it in the Wonder Washer. If it's big, thick, or bulky -- forget about it. That means outerwear is out of the question. Most women's wear shouldn't be a problem, since women's clothing is usually lightweight (thin, often no lining for jackets etc.); however a lot of men's clothing tends to be much thicker and bulkier. Super plush hoodies or thick, heavyweight jeans will be too big for the bucket's 7-10 Liter capacity.\n\nPersonally, I've been using this little dude to wash \"delicates\" -- bras and panties, leggings, tights, scarves, and my lightweight dresses, blouses, and skirts. It does the job, leaves my clothes smelling pleasant enough, and hasn't really given me any issue. Is it easy to use? Yes and no. Usage is fairly straight forward, however lugging the bucket back and forth can be bothersome, but that's just me being lazy.\n\nNice product, glad I purchased.\n\nUPDATE I (06/04/2014)\n\nAfter using this item on several more occasions, here are some more follow-up thoughts and advice:\n\n* The base (where all the electrical components and good stuff is located) has the potential to get over-heated after doing several loads. If this happens, remove the bucket and allow the base to cool. I pointed a fan at it, and it cooled and functioned instantly.\n\n* For stains use a spot remover before dropping your clothes in this little guy -- makes a huge difference! (Though you should also use some spot remover with your normal washing machine anyway, for the same reason; just my two cents, anyway).\n\n* Do not overfill with laundry. If the bucket it too tightly packed with your clothes it won't spin properly. I can't tell you how many times I had to stick my hand in a bucket full of soggy slimy clothes to loosen it up.\n\n* Do not overfill with water. Nope, nope, nope. If you do, then water will be spinning out everywhere and it'll be madness.\n\n* On a final note, you do not need to use a lot of detergent. You don't want it super suddy. Personally, I don't do a rinse cycle (I'm lazy), so I don't want my clothes super soapy. Still, adding too much detergent has yet caused any real problems so I wouldn't worry about it too much.\n\nUPDATE II (one year later):\n\nIt's been a year since I've had this little machine and it's still kickin' hard. Great purchase!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4750, "id": 346299, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 715, "len_tokens": 842, "text": "I gave this four stars because it is simple and just what I needed. The only improvement would be to be a small agitator in the shape of a ball that you could throw into any bucket or sink and take anywhere with you.\n\nThis type of washer is good for me because I'm single and do not have large loads and would rather wash my items frequently rather than have big piles of dirty laundry sitting around.  Also, the wash in my apartment building is really tough on clothes and doesn't spin the water out well.  Laundry mats are even more expensive and inconvenient.  So, I had been washing by hand with the rapid washer, but sometimes get lazy.  I think this will help motivate me to launder more frequently.\n\nThere are newer versions of this size of washer out that have automatic rinse cycles and hook-ups, but I hesitated to get one.  1) The more complex, the more things can break.  2) I already have a nice spin dryer.  3) I like to rinse my clothes twice, since my skin is sensitive to soap. 4) I like the idea of using my wash water for a second or third load to save water and soap.\n\nThis washer is simple, small, and effective.  I can rinse a load in a five gallon bucket with the rapid washer while the second load is washing.  So, I figure two loads (one light and one dark) with rinsing and the spin dryer, followed by a quick ironing session and then onto a hanger and I\"m done for a few days.  Easy peasy!  Less than an hour, no quarters needed, no trips outside of the home, and much easier on the clothes.\n\nI also tried one load after going away for a yoga weekend.  I could throw in my yoga pants, shirts, socks, and underwear.  One load, two rinses, spin dry, and hang up to dry and ready to wear tomorrow.  Awesome!!  In this case, I poured the water out and used the same container to rinse my clothes twice.  I found it really easy to lift from the base and pour into the bathtub with the holes in the top of the cover.  My cover stayed on just fine.  There are two tabs that you simply rotate to under the handles and it locks the cover on.  It was also easy for me to pour out and then just put the clothes in the spin dryer.  I think this version of a washer is just as good as some of the more expensive versions that don't have an automatic rinse and it allows me to either rewash or rinse as I want.  I have about average strength for a woman and didn't have any trouble with the weight or pouring at all.\n\nI also like that the base and bucket can be stored separately or that the base can fit right into the bucket.  I can use the bucket as a laundry basket. When it is full, it is time to wash. It is also easily transportable.  Although my rapid washer might be an easier fix for out of the apartment portable washing needs.\n\nLastly, for the pro's even though it is plastic, it seems like it will hold up for a while.  I hope to get a year or more out of it. It would be good to be able to just replace or fix the base if something wears out.\n\nCons:  I can see that the bucket filled with water might be heavy for some without average strength to lift.  This was not a problem for me.  Some might also want the automatic rinse and spin.  I didn't see this as a problem since I could rinse and spin the light colored load while the dark colored load was washing to make the whole process quicker with a better rinse than most small machines will allow.  The separate laundry alternative spin dryer is also better than a regular washer spinner, so it saves electricity and time.  The last con is that I do sometimes like a dryer to shrink clothes that are stretched out a bit and get the wrinkles out, but that really has to do with the drying process rather than the washing.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4751, "id": 346432, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 740, "len_tokens": 861, "text": "Well 800 gram isn't much weight, it's = to 1.25 pds which is basically the weight of the water you put in it, yes socks and underwear may not weigh that much when there dry, but they do when there wet, its a different ball game for it haha. I'm a big dude that wears size 42 everything so my shorts (wet) probably weigh just as much as say... a size 30 jeans would weigh. Basically to make a long story short... it hated my clothes lol. If too much weight in bucket, it like to spin around fast at times when the machine is in cycle, and to no lock of some sort at the bottom of bucket to keep it from doing that, I ended up using one of my belts to keep into place as I was afraid that the bucket would spin off the machine and I would have to deal with water everywhere. My clothes also must be dirtier... if that word exist... anyways because I've heard ppl on here say they reuse there water sometimes....First of all....EGGGHHHH tha hell wrong wit ya'll, I wouldn't even do that with a regular machine if it let me lol. That's the other thing that was a work out for me, never had to squeeze the water out of my clothes which were soaked. doesn't really do the trick that well either as all it does is spin your clothes around one way, stop for about 5 sec, then spin the other direction which I noticed is what makes the bucket spin.. see the water is still spinning in the last direction it was going before the machine goes the other direction which makes your clothes and water stop suddenly and making the bucket lean and tilt at times and making it spin around really fast., that's what my belt was for, but it doesn't exactly save on water as U go through a lot of it rinsing out your clothes afterwards, not to mention this one wasn't quiet. Sounded like the motor was whining up, (working hard) so it wasn't quiet I should say, quieter than a regular one but still, was kinda annoying to hear. I don't think it was worth the money I spent on it as I'm in the process in getting a refund right now, if you have very little small light clothes then your all good, but if you have size 42 thick underware, and size xx large socks that are thick in materials like I do lol.... you minds well forget it. The machine will hate U lol and make you work hard to get your clothes clean, its almost like if your really dirty from working at a construction site or something and U come home to take a bath, well that bath water is going be pretty nasty by the time you fill the tub up just from U sitting in it, well that's how my clothes where, hell U could see the water turning right there before even turning the machine on lol, like well let them soak for a moment, then I'll change the water out. Might find yourself changing the water several times for one small load. O yeah... use like a freakin teaspoon of detergent too, because you'll find yourself spending the next 20 mins sitting over your tub hand rinsing out soap and bucket, of course if ya'll already have those kinda machines in your house that's rings them out 4 U then then hell your cool. But sorry, I didn't like the product so I'm returning it. Also U would think since U have like a gallon and a half of water sitting on top of a motor that's using 120 volts at about 3 amps and god knows how many watts, it would at least have a 3 prong plug at the end so it had something to ground out too, (if the house/apt is equipped with it). I know houses come with circuit breakers now a days but even those have been known to fail, and doesn't say anything in manual about having any of a circuit breaker built in, I mean I don't want to get shocked if water happens to go spilling everywhere lol, anyways I think I've said more enough of pros and cons about it.....well more cons then pros but... anyways that's my opinion on it", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4752, "id": 347808, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 706, "len_tokens": 874, "text": "I have been ordering from Amazon for years and with over hundreds and hundreds of order, I cant remember ever writing a review...until today.  I have had this wonderful washer for almost a month and love, love, love it!  Did I mention I love it?  Well I do!  I have been searching for a portable washer for a couple of months.  I live in Hawaii so shipping is generally not offered on large products such as this.  I also live in a studio condominium.  Units here do not have washer hookups and it is further prohibited to change existing plumbing so our options are few to none.  It has been far too many years of going up and down in the elevator to the laundromat and has become too expensive in my eyes to pay $10 to wash and dry a load.  Most of the time, my clothes are still wet, which takes longer to dry and once dried, well, not freshly clean smelling.  I work from home a lot and have a pet, so the convenience of doing laundry at home became very important to me.  I did have one of those Panda small washers for under $100 and a spin dryer about the same several years ago.  It broke down after a year.  It was time consuming and if time is money, then maybe I lost out somewhere in the equation. I would not order such a product again.  So recently I started my search and was reluctant to go down the path of trying another washer. After a month of comparing models and reading and re-reading reviews, I chose the RCA. (was only $209 at the time I purchased with free PRIME shipping).  It arrived on time and no damage.  It did have pictures of the washer on the outer box and description.  The Fedex delivery guy was quite impressed with it and had a lot of questions for me.  I had it unboxed, hooked up and was doing my first load in 30 minutes.  It actually holds more than I thought it would.  I can also do a full bed sheet set in one load (fitted and flat sheet and 4 pillow cases).  I can usually do 2-3 loads for a weeks worth of laundry.  It has been a long time since I have been so impressed with a product. I would easily give this washer 10 stars if I could.  This unit spins clothes very dry.  I use a non-scented detergent and I have not had clothes come out actually smelling so amazingly fresh since I was a kid and my grandmother was doing my laundry!  Very quiet operation.  If it broke down tomorrow, I would order it again!  HAHAHA  Folks, there are no further words for me to describe my satisfaction with this gem.  Get it, you won't be disappointed.\n\nAdditional:\nAnyone who has one, what is the black plastic large square piece in the box for?\n\nThe instruction manual is not very detailed.  For instance, there is a soap dispenser listed in the manual but I haven't been able to find it.  I just pour my laundry soap on top of the clothes as the water is added.  Absolutely no issues with this process.  I would give the manual a 2-star rating.  But this should not take away for the excellent quality of the washer at all.\n\nAlso, I was initially looking for a unit that I can add water to.  Didnt want to bother with hooking up to sink.  I am so glad I took a chance on this purchase!  The set up is way too easy and once done, you load machine and turn it on, you can walk away.  There is no babysitting with this machine!\n\nUPDATE: 2/21/17  I cant believe I have had this gem for almost a year and a half now.  Still no problems.  I use about 4 times a week.  Incredibly, I think this is the best and favorite thing I have ever bought from Amazon. LOL  I honestly didn't expect it to last a year.  No leaks, or loud banging.  Total confidence and if it broke down today, I would have another one ordered within minutes!  Life saver!!!  :)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4753, "id": 349067, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 674, "len_tokens": 852, "text": "1st Pic is the Whirlpool  - 2nd pic is the PURE\n\nThe Not So Fantastic\n\n-This product is rated for 200 gallons NOT 300 gallons as stated in the Amazon description.\n-Costs .20 cents to filter 1 gallon..some may find this excessive ( I do )  - $40 per filter as advertised 200 gallon rate.  We are paying for convenience as the filter replacement process is 1 2 3... There are much cheaper alternatives if you wanted to partake in some plumbing work and filter the water prior to the frig\n-I have noticed a slight reduction in water pressure.  Nothing major.  The exact statistics follow\n-This product does not have a flow rate of .78 gpm.  My calculated flow rate was .55 gpm.  I filled a 16 oz container in 13.8 seconds.\n-This product actually reduced my frig water pressure.  The prior filter in use was a MORE Pure Filter rated at .5 gpm. This filter dispensed a flow rate of .61 (measured at end of lifespan so I suspect the flow rate was even better months ago) and filled a 16 oz container in 12.5 seconds.\n\nPLEASE NOTE - Filter flow rates will vary greatly when the frig line is connected to a saddle valve.  If you are bothered by your low flow rate from your frig and you have a saddle valve it does not matter which filter you get.. your flow rate will suffer..!!! Get ride of that saddle valve\n\nThe Shame On Me\n-Shame on me for ever taking an Amazon description seriously.  The description below the title specifically states this Whirlpool filter is rated at 300 gallons.  However, upon further review the official Whirlpool description states 200 gallons.  If the Whirlpool description was not displayed on this product page I would have deducted another star for sure.  However, shame on Amazon or who ever is responsible for their shoddy descriptions below the product title.  It does cause everyone, including myself, an big inconvenience when you want to make a quick purchase and are always doubting if the specs and or descriptions are accurate\n\nThe Not Too Shabby\n-The filter claims to filter 23 contaminants and is NSF 42 and 53 certified.  The only reason why I was so suspect of this was Whirlpool claims the filters flow rate is better than its competitors that do not filter as well.  In my opinion this makes NO SENSE as higher quality filters filter out more contaminants therefor will be more restrictive.  Since this filter actually reduced my pressure I wasn't bothered by it.  B/c of this slight reduction I am more confident that this filter does indeed filter out more contaminants that my previous More PURE filter.\n-The water tastes good.  I have not not noticed a taste improvement vs the old filter (More PURE filter) but thats not a bad thing.  This filter apparently filters out more impurities than the PURE but who's to say those impurities even have any sort of taste :)\n\nThe Final Verdict\nMy reason for a 1 star deduction was a combination of high price, incorrect description (200/300) and the filter not holding up to the advertised .78 gpm**  The way my family uses water I suspect I will use 3 filters per year which will cost $10 per month.  B/c of this price I will surely find cheaper alternatives (filter the water prior to the frig) once these filters expire.  But with this said, I am content with this product as it is a very convenient way to filter your water for drinking use.  I do wish the pressure was a little better than it is but with improved filtration usually comes more restriction so I've accepted this trade off.\nIf you value convenience I would recommend this filter.  If you value the dollar and consider yourself handy I would not recommend this product.\n\n** - Please note my frig water dispenser is not connected to a saddle valve.  This 1/4\" line is directly tapped off a 3/4\" with a 1/4 turn shut off valve.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4754, "id": 361844, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 679, "len_tokens": 818, "text": "UPDATE:\nI've used the washer for 7 months now and it's still working great! Because I like fabric softener since I often hang my clothes outside to dry, I've started to add the fabric softener along with the detergent in the wash cycle. This way, I don't have to babysit the machine and catch the rinse cycle. It works!\n\nI'm moving across the country at the end of the week and really hope the washer makes it through unscathed! I'll be adding the small dryer when I'm in my new home.\n\n I received my washer today and have been merrily washing since we set it up. I LOVE it, it seems well-built but, in case something goes wrong over time, I did purchase the extended warranty. My washer was delivered within the shipping window and arrived in perfect condition. I had read the manual online so I knew what to expect and had arranged my bathroom so that it had a permanent resting place within 3 feet of the faucet/sink and within 4 feet of an electrical outlet. I also had removed the bottom piece/aerator from the faucet. When the washer was delivered, we were good to go!\n\nAnd it literally only took a few minutes to set up. The washer comes with a piece to screw into the bottom of the faucet (remember that the aerator needs to be removed). We tightened that with a wrench and hooked up the water inlet hose to the top of the machine and the other end to the faucet adaptor. After that, we attached the draining hose to the bottom of the washer. I decided to remove my sink's drain plug thingy and put the end of the washer's hose securely into the drain, hoping it would be secure when the washer pumped water out. (It is! This works perfectly!) The washer comes with a hose clamp but the shape of it and the hook didn't work with my sink or vanity.\n\nWe plugged in the machine and ran a test wash with 2 old hand towels. The manual suggests running an initial wash without clothes but I figured putting 2 small towels in would help clean the machine and help remove the \"new washer\" smell. We set it on a quick wash and the water level on medium, added detergent, and let it go. The machine performed flawlessly. I then started to wash clothes, sticking with the \"Quick\" wash. That cycle lasts 23 minutes and gets clothes very clean! It uses less water and electricity, too! I did another medium load consisting of 10 pairs of socks, 10 pairs of undies, a good hand towel, and 2 pairs of jammies. I also did a large load and it fit 2 pairs of sweatpants, 4 sweatshirts, and 2 t-shirts. (If this helps, I'm 5 feet, 6 inches tall and wear a Size 6 so smaller people could fit more of their clothes and larger people fewer clothes, I guess.)\n\nI am delighted with how well this little washer cleans my clothes, how much it fits in a load, and how efficient it is! There are 2 lint filters inside the machine and it's amazing how much lint accumulates in them. (Well, maybe it shouldn't be. I do have pets, heh.) The manual recommends cleaning them after each load and I'd agree. It's simple to do. There's only one drawback -- no fabric softener dispenser. It wasn't mentioned in the manual so I just keep an eye on it and add fabric softener to the water during the rinse cycle. The Quick cycle only does one rinse so that's easy enough to figure out without having to watch it constantly.\n\nI bought this washer after my full-sized front loader broke. I'm going to be moving later this year, building a cabin and using solar power so I decided I may as well buy a washer that would work now and also be an energy-efficient, smart appliance for the cabin. This is a winner and I hope it lasts a long time!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4755, "id": 361854, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 715, "len_tokens": 849, "text": "A few years ago I bought a 1 cubic foot Haier from Amazon and was so happy with it that when it stopped working I decided to upgrade to another Haier and get a dryer too. Of course, I bought it at Amazon because their customer service has always been outstanding.  One thing that I would recommend is to make sure who is selling the item to you.  I bought the dryer from Amazon and the customer service response was very different than for the washer which was sold by a third party.\n\nFirst off: the previous washer was delivered right inside my apartment, so I was expecting the same delivery. I do not remember who made the delivery four or five years ago but it was neither UPS nor FedEx because the man was not wearing any uniform.  Anyway, the washer was brought upstairs.  This time the machine was left curbside by FedEX.  This meant I had to hire a mover at $75 hr, one hour minimum to bring the washer upstairs.  And this was after I had taken delivery of the drier two days prior under the same circumstances.  (\n\nIn addition, I had to spend $40 on a dolly because the machine has no wheels.  I take some responsibility for this.  I should have read the reviews more extensively and noticed the mention of NO CASTERS.  I thought I would use furniture sliders, but at 66 years old I don't want to risk throwing my back out, so a dolly it is.  Amazon did give me a $62 credit, but I spent $190 dollars trying to make this washer have the same portability as the smaller one, so I am still out of a chunk of my Social Security check. An expense I had not budgeted for.  I am not saying Amazon is responsible to deliver what they call in my neck of the woods in a \"white glove\" way, but I am putting it out here so that other buyers can make an informed decision.  This is a small machine but it is still heavy.\n\nApart from those isssues that are not per se the washing machine's, this seems to be an even better machine than the smaller one.  Installation of the hoses was a cinch. And there was no leakage whatsoever.  I had several towels at the ready just in case and there wasn't even one drop leaked.\n\nThe drainage water output is bigger than with the 1 cubic foot one.  On that one all the water poured directly into the drain with no accumulation in the sink whatsoever and with this 1.5 cubic foot the water goes up maybe two inches in the sink but as long as there is nothing to prevent free flow I don't think there is the tiniest risk of overflowing.\n\nLast observation is about the noise level.  I have read many reviews saying how quiet it is (also some people complain of screeching but that is another matter) but I find the noise level is like any normal washer.  No more but certainly no less.  I would not comment on it except that too many people here and elsewhere how said how quiet it is and since my washer is in my apartment as contraband I was excited about how quiet it was supposed to be.  Not so.  In fact, it is a tiny bit louder than the smaller Haier. Again, it is not noisy.  Just not as quiet as I was led to believe.\n\nI would highly recommend this washer. just be aware of what needs to be done in order to make the washer truly portable. (I have done only two loads and if there are any problems I will come back and update.)\n\nUPDATE:  I have been using my washer for almost two months now and I am still very happy with it.  Love all the water level and cycle options and most of all I like the larger size. I would give it five stars if it weren't for the no-wheels situation. I bought a Stalwart telescopic dolly, which is working great, but it means that I had to spend $42 in additon to all the other extra expenses mentioned above.  But all's well that ends well, like the man said.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4756, "id": 368784, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 647, "len_tokens": 833, "text": "Well, my homemade kegerator I used to keep my homebrew finally gave up the ghost (bad compressor), and after looking at options it was clear that it was more economically feasible to get a new unit rather than try to repair the old one.  I was torn between this and two kegerators that had the fittings included...both the EdgeStar model and the Nostalgia.  Ultimately I chose this because I already had the tower, lines, and gas canister, plus I didn't want to give up my Perlick 630.\n\nSo in case it isn't clear, this is the refrigerator ONLY.  You will need to add all the rest of it.  Fortunately, EdgeStar makes it fairly easy, though there are some hiccups.  I'll start with those.\n\nI really like that the gas canister is outside the unit - believe me, force carbonating with chilled gas is a pain.  There is a predrilled hole in the back for the gas line, but it's just a tiny bit on the narrow side if your gas line is already attached to a fitting.  So you will either need/want to run a new gas line or, in my case, remove the plastic gasket/lining which will give you another couple of millimeters of clearance and just -barely- let you run a line with a fitting attached.  Again, this is something to keep in mind if you're transferring gear from an old setup to this new unit.\n\nAnother thing to keep in mind...the top is tapped and drilled for installation of a tower.  The four screws were set such that my existing tower didn't line up with them.  I ended up making a collar that fit the predrilled holes, then installed my tower on top of it.  It works, and it satisfied my DIY urge that buying a premade kegerator didn't really satisfy.\n\nAssembly and setup was otherwise intuitive.  I really suggest letting the unit sit upright for 24 hours after you set it up, to be sure the coolant has settled properly.  You will need to put the unit on its side to install the casters, so mind that 24 hour rule.\n\nAs I'm using this for homebrew the major thing I wanted to know was...how many corny kegs will it fit?  It will fit TWO corny kegs comfortably.  With these kegs though, you will NOT be able to use the included shelving in the unit...the corny kegs are too tall. If homebrew isn't your thing, it will fit either one full size keg (not an oversized), a pony keg, a slim quarter, or two sixths.\n\nTemperature control is easy.  At the coldest setting my probe thermometer says it hits 34 degrees after three days of being on.  The warmest setting (setting 1) was hovering around 41 degrees.  The temperature spread between setting 1 and 6 seemed pretty uniform.  I was interested in this because temperature is one of the key variables when it comes to balancing the draft system and making sure the beer line is the correct length.\n\nOther reviews are correct when they say this unit is quiet.  I every so often hear a quiet -thunk- when the compressor engages, but other than that it's really a discreet system.  The casters make it easy to move around if desired.\n\nMy unit came with a selection of hardware (washers, hose clamps, etc) which I thought was odd since there were no fittings to install...but I'm country, so I'll roll with it.\n\nOverall, I don't think I could be happier with the system.  I admit to a minor headache with the tower installation, but I got to use my improvisational skills to make it work, so it was a one time thing.  At the end of the day, this thing makes it ultra easy for me to relax, not worry, and have a homebrew.  It's a good unit and I'm glad to have it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4757, "id": 371939, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 653, "len_tokens": 803, "text": "I researched and waited for three years in my home (built in 1940 so no plumbing or wiring for a built-in dishwasher) before I finally was able to purchase a countertop dishwasher and let me tell you, it was THE best decision I have ever made. I have fibromyalgia so my back and upper body strength is not at all what it used to be, but I was able to get the (rather large) box inside and up six steps on my own without too much trouble. Pulling the dishwasher out wasn't a hassle either. The exceptionally frail, however, will need some help with this. Setup wasn't difficult at all and only took a few minutes. Do be careful not to overtighten any of your lines. The fit will be snug, but you won't need to struggle with it to get it tight enough. If you're struggling, or using any tools to tighten further, you're doing it wrong.\n\nRegular-sized dinner plates fit just fine, and I'm actually using the \"cup rack\" for serving utensils, spatulas, anything with long handles, and coffee mug lids. Deeper bowls need to be loaded upside down, which will cut back on how much you can put in per load, but that's fine with me, honestly. Coffee mugs need to be loaded on the bottom rack as well - they will NOT fit on the cup rack.\n\nOne review mentioned that a hand sprayer started shooting water because of a pressure build-up, but I have a hand sprayer on my sink (and it's nothing expensive or nice, just your run-of-the-mill sprayer setup) and I haven't had a single problem with it. I prepared for the possibility, but there hasn't been any problem. If you're thinking of getting this but aren't sure about having a hand sprayer, I'd recommend trying it first (just put a pot over top of the sprayer during the first operation) to see if there's a problem before you go out and try and replace your faucet to accommodate this.\n\nI used Jet Dry Finish rinse aid and am using Cascade Platinum pods as the detergent. The manual does say these are easily accommodated, but that one should run one of the longer cycles (Normal or Heavy) as sometimes the pods can take a while to dissolve all the way. No trouble at all.\n\nThe manual also says to prewash your dishes to avoid clogging any filters, but that's mostly just for larger food particles, just like you'd do with any other dishwasher. Smaller particles, sauces, oils, beverage residue, etc are fine to leave on there and your dishes will come clean with no problem if you're using a good detergent. Be smart with what you put in there and you won't have an issue.\n\nThis unit does take up quite a bit of counter space, but it will fit on a standard-width counter without hanging over the edge. If you don't have a lot of spare counter space, you may want to find a cart to keep it on (one with casters works best) and roll the cart back and forth when you need to use the unit.\n\nOperation is surprisingly quiet. The only time it's noisy is when the dirty water shoots into the sink, but that's to be expected, amirite?\n\nI am INCREDIBLY happy with this dishwasher, and wish I had been able to afford/accommodate it sooner. Three years of washing dishes by hand was QUITE enough! Large dishes will still obviously be washed by hand, but that's maybe ten minutes at the sink rather than two hours to do a few days' worth of dishes. If you like doing dishes by hand, then, y'know, you do you, but if you're like me and dishes are your arch-nemesis, GET THIS THING. It is SO worth every penny to be able to put in a load and leave it for an hour or so!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4758, "id": 371986, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 626, "len_tokens": 813, "text": "The SPT SD-2224DS countertop dishwasher is a fantastic addition to any singles or small families without a dishwasher.  Simply put, it does a great job at washing dishes... which is what (I hope) you're looking for in a dishwasher.\n\nAs a twenty-something bachelor living solo in an apartment, I sometimes suffer from \"Anti-Dishwashing-itis\".  It's a terrible condition really.  Thankfully, the SPT SD-2224DS has been a cure for me, and I'm no longer showing any symptoms of it.\n\nSo why is it so good?  Well, it does its job well.  It leaves dishes, glassware, silverware, plastic storage containers, and all that other stuff looking great.  While I haven't compared different detergents to see if the effectiveness varies, I've used my trusty Cascade powder detergent and rinse aid combo that I've been using for a while.  Why fix what ain't broken?\n\nThis dishwasher has a great feature set, with different settings which include normal/heavy loads, light loads, and just glasses.  It has a warning indicator for when you should refill the rinse aid, and the LED display is a great addition.  The default normal load takes just under 2 hours, and the lighter loads take about an hour and fifteen minutes.  If you're someone who operates on a tight schedule and likes certain things to be ready at certain times, you're in luck; this dishwasher has a delay start feature.  While that feature isn't important to me, I used it to test it out and it works great.\n\nThe machine is rather quiet; I have it in a position where the kitchen meets the dining area and living room area (open-concept apartment), and it doesn't disturb me at all.  The only time it really makes any noise is when it is ejecting the used water into the sink.  It also looks sharp.  I think the silver looks rather similar to stainless steel and fits right in if that's your decor choice for your kitchen; the black accent at the top is a nice touch, and it allows the contrasting white LED display to show clearly.\n\nThe dish-rack works well for the most part. It rolls out, and it has slots for your different items, as well as a tray for your utensils.  However, it is also rather prescriptive. What I mean by this is that there are a lot of slots, which has its pros and cons.  The pros being that it can hold plenty of items, but the cons are that those items tend to be more specific (e.g. these are your dinner plate slots, these are your bowl slots, etc.), so it can be difficult to figure out some oddball items like crockpots when there are so many slots sticking up.  It works, but it doesn't work as well as it could.  I also had the SPT SD-2201S dishwasher, which is an older model, but I loved it (there was nothing wrong with it, I just moved and sold it).  That model had a different dish-rack with fewer, but more large slots.  Again, pros and cons.\n\nThe only other issue I have with it is the faucet adapter isn't a perfect fit for my faucet, so it still leaks water.  It works fine, and it's likely a user error, and not an issue with the adapter itself.  It's just an annoyance.\n\nI wish I could do half stars, because this is definitely a 4 1/2 star machine.  I think 4 stars is a bit too harsh, but 5 stars is giving it a little bit more credit when I have a slight preference for the DS-2201S.\n\nRegardless, if you're looking for a countertop dishwasher, you won't go wrong with this machine.  SPT makes solid dishwashers, and my sink is now always empty and looking clean.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4759, "id": 377829, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 626, "len_tokens": 852, "text": "WHY I bought THIS PRODUCT over other SIMILAR and CHEAPER products:\n1) Exact replacement for my model GHW9100LW! (slightly different numbers: old-46197020167 new-46170228513)\n2) 4 blades instead of the others with only three blades, which to me means less stress on the motor\n3) Electrical connection cover same as original while others had no cover at all that I could see (not a good idea to me when there could potentially be water leaking out somewhere).\n4) This product has the same power rating as the original while others had a higher power rating; IE others use more power, and potentially higher than the machine is made to handle, possibly making something else break.\n5) My original pump which looks exactly like this pump lasted me 13+ years! Well worth the extra 20 dollars if it means it will last me a long time again.\n6) After receiving product, packaging plainly stated this pump is newer and better than several previous models, which I assume now to be the ones I did not buy, including not buying this:&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Maytag-Whirlpool-Water-Drain-Pump-Motor-Only-P-n-8181684-ONLY-MOTOR/dp/B00RY3MXAG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Maytag Whirlpool Water Drain Pump Motor Only P/n 8181684 ONLY MOTOR</a>\n\nSHIPPING: Excellent quick shipping from Appliance Express Service! Order showed estimated delivery to be 5-15 days from purchase, mine was delivered in 3 days via USPS Priority 2 day Mail! [I could have paid up to $12 more for faster shipping, but it only changed the estimated delivery closer by a few days... not worth the money to me, plus USUALLY Amazon free shipping does not disappoint (I live not too far from a large city with shipping hubs)]\n\nPackaging: Came inside USPS Priority packaging with product box inside. The box had the item wrapped with bubble wrap and fitted snugly inside box along with instructions and web addresses for installation videos etc.\n\nINSTALLATION: For me VERY EASY. (Suggestion only, take all normal and regular precautions, use at your own risk)\n1) Unplug washer\n2) Suck out all the water you can sitting in washer with a wet vac held up tight against the drain pipe, then wet vac tube against bottom of filter cover as you remove cover SLOWLY. (turns out for me most all the water came out while suctioning the drain pipe)\n3) Remove three screws from bottom of lower front cover (7mm socket), slide cover straight down and then out of the way\n4) (On my model replacing pump only) Absolutely no need to remove any hoses or clamps. Simply pop up the electrical connector cover (if you have one) and gently pull electrical connection out and remove wiring from small routing clamp on side of pump.\n5) Working around the shock absorber and wiring harness: remove three screws on pump using a short handled (hopefully magnetic) Phillips screwdriver (my screwdriver was just under 7\"long), you should be able to see the screw on the top left of the pump (closest to the front of the washer), and the one on the bottom. The other screw is on the upper right somewhat behind pump, same position as the upper left, I just got it by feel.\n6) After removing the three screws, gently wiggle and pull pump away from plastic filter housing section; it may resist some like mine did, just gently work it off-no need to go hercules on it. Be sure old gasket comes out/off as well.\n7) New pump came with gasket already in place, otherwise be sure to put gasket on. Then reverse order; screws in snug but not over tight (it's going into plastic after all) clean, replace and tighten filter cover if you haven't already, Now SAFELY check for leaks by opening the door to the washer and pour some water in.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4760, "id": 380444, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 743, "len_tokens": 872, "text": "Installed fairly easily, but we nearly had a no-go with the installation.  We have some of the newer water valves that only rotate 90 from \"off\" to \"on,\" not the old style faucet handles that twist several rotations between fully closed (\"off\") to fully open (\"on\").  The long tab on that valve stem would not clear the large brown sleeve around the connection at the water-supply end of the hose.  I had to twist that on a bit tighter than \"hand tight\" as the directions require, in order to get the gap between the four little tips that are designed to help your grip around the faucet end of that fitting, to line up just right in order to allow the faucet stem to rotate out between the little tips on that sleeve (see the close up view of the end of the hose fitting to see the four tips around the end).  One of those tips was perfectly aligned, when fully tightened, to keep the valve stem from rotating out the full 90 (full \"on\" water pressure).  Presumably that slightly greater than hand tightening did not hurt the connection, but just be aware that it's a potential obstruction due to that fitting being much larger in diameter at the four \"tips\" than a standard hose fitting.\n\nSecond, these hoses are only designed to last five years.  The instructions emphasize replacement in five years.  At $50 for a pair of hoses, that's a bit steep!  But the cost of a burst hose while you're away or at the other end of the house would be much higher than that with all the potential water damage.  I just question the price of the hoses, to be honest.  Having been in a situation where a hose burst under our dish washer, I'm particularly sensitive to this issue (fortunately we were home and avoided much more significant water damage, but not before figuring out where all the water was coming from and getting the shut off valve for the entire house turned off).  We've now got a water sensor as part of our home security system in case it happens while we're away, so we can at least call someone before catastrophic water damage occurs.  This is a nice fix - assuming it works as advertised.\n\nNote that because of the construction of the shutoff valve end of the hoses (the end that connects at the supply lines from your home), this will cause your washer to sit a little further out from the wall than before, depending on the water supply line configuration at your wall.  We've got the room, but it just doesn't look as nice when the washer and dryer aren't lined up in front, or else the dryer has to also sit out further from the wall in order to line up with the washer.\n\nFinally, note the 90 fitting at the washing machine (output) end of the hoses.  That causes the hose to also stick straight out further than \"normal\" hoses would if the fitting was in line with the rest of the hose.  If you've got the room, great.  And if your washer already will have to sit out further from the wall because of the other end of these hoses (the long valve assembly at the supply line end), then again, no problem.\n\nWhile there are some negatives, the concept could save users HUGE repair bills if a washing machine hose burst while away from the house.  And along those lines, check with your security alarm company to see if they can supply you with a water sensor that can be mounted down at floor level behind your washer in case of a burst line (or other leak).  Having \"been there, done that\" before, we now have one, and feel better protected.  (We use Simplisafe, which uses non-wired sensors and permits text messaging of any problems at the house.  We've gotten text messages when power has gone off at home while we were away within seconds of the interruption, and would get a message about a water leak also within seconds if one happened.  This could allow a neighbor, relative, or friend to get into the house to shut off water - or even shut it off at the curb if they couldn't get in.  We have no connection with Simplisafe, other than being customers.  Presumably other alarm security companies have similar devices.)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4761, "id": 388579, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 654, "len_tokens": 864, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-RMQCUUMZLSB9Z\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/C1lMf1p9LCS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/819T0hOQwBS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;If you need ice in a hurry, this machine is for you.\n\n In under 10 minutes, you will have enough ice to fill your glass.\nOperation could not be more simple. After un-boxing, let the machine sit for 30 minutes before turning it on. That's very important, because the refrigerant has to stabilize. And if you've had an ice maker before, you might forget the important step.\n\nAnyway, after a quick wash of the machine, all you do is fill it with water, select the size cube you want, and let the machine work its magic.\nOne thing about this, and any ice machine, is the importance of keeping it super clean. Even restaurant ice machines often have high levels of bacteria. You can avoid that by regularly wiping this machine clean. If you don't use it for a while, make sure that you dry it as well as you can, and leave the lid open in order to air dry even more.\n\nThe cubes are bullet shaped and hollow. If you like to crunch ice, use the setting to make small cubes, or should I say, bullets.\nAnother nice feature about this machine is the long cord. When entertaining, I like to set up a table with beverages. The cord is long enough to go down the table and into the electrical outlet.\nAs the video shows, it doesn't make a lot of noise, and certainly will not interfere with a party where music is played and people are having fun.\nMy freezer is generally too full to store ice cubes, and it never fails. Whenever I make hard boiled eggs, they go from hot water to ice water, and of course I don't have any ice cubes. With this, while the eggs are coming to a boil, the machine makes enough ice to chill the eggs when they are done cooking.\n\nUPDATE: I've been using this ice machine everyday for almost a month. In the early evening, I start up the machine. Within 10 minutes, of course, I have enough ice for my glass, but then I keep the machine going and it fills up in a few hours. Now there is enough ice not only for the whole evening, but I unplug the machine and keep it filled with ice. In the morning, the ice is still there.\nA bit melted, but there is enough insulation in this machine to keep a full load of ice until morning. For me, and perhaps for you, that is huge because I have no room in my freezer.\n\nAs stated in my original review, the following is of the utmost importance. Every few days or so, in between the morning iced coffee and the evening start up, the water is emptied, and I use a very weak (one half teaspoon to a cup of water) vinegar solution and a lint free cloth to wipe the interior clean. Then the lid is left open to air dry. Always empty the water and do this if you don't plan on using it for a few days. You can turn the machine on its side to get every last bit of water out, if you like, but remember that 30 minute rule to let the refrigerant stabilize.  It sounds like a lot of maintaining but it isn't.\nThis machine is wonderful for ice-a-holics like me!\nAnd I admit to being overly cautious.\nDISCLOSURE: Product received at no cost or at a discount, with the option to review.\nViews and opinions are my own. I have no affiliation with any manufacturer or distributor other than choosing to review their item.\nNo financial compensation is EVER accepted for a review, and after six months, most products are donated, destroyed or returned to the vendor. Nonprofits are encouraged to inquire at the email address on my profile.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4762, "id": 394845, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 738, "len_tokens": 888, "text": "My new AWN432 was delivered at about 9:15am this morning.  I am still trying to clean out a residue from the wash tub so I can use it at 2pm.  Alliance says it is a polishing compound residue and told me to clean it with Simple Green.  They admitted they have an issue at the factory with these machines going out like this.  I have run 2 hot cycles after wiping with Simple Green, washing with Simple Green and washing with Simple Green and ammonia. It seemed to be getting a little better and I'm running white rags thru it now.  However, I just wiped clear around the top edge of the stainless steel basket with a white paper towel that came out nearly black.  At one point it threw some black stuff across the floor in my laundry room.\n\nMy old Maytag broke down 4 days ago and I eagerly awaited the arrival of this on Monday, so I could wash my clothes again.  I'm still cleaning my washer at this point.\n________________________\nWhy, oh why, is SQ telling people to run Simple Green and/or a petroleum distillate product thru this washer to clean it.  On my 2nd phone call they offered to send a clean, shiny, replacement tub (for a brand new washer) and then I could arrange to get it replaced under warranty with a local company; or try a petroleum based product.  I can't sit home day after day to deal with appliances.  I am now on the 7th cycle overall, and the 3rd one using just ALL Free&Clear and hot water.  I think it may finally be clean and the ALL seems to have done more than Simple Green.  We'll see.\n____________________________\nI did finally get it cleaned out with the laundry detergent (which I wish SQ had advised me to use)and it is a good washer.  I cannot rate the product and ignore the issue I had, so 4 stars instead of 5.\n\nBut it cleans the clothes well, has lots of choices for cycles and 2 spin speeds that are preset with the different cycles.  There is also a way to easily override that annoying lid switch if you want to see the agitation begin so you know if you have enough water/detergent. Look up under the back edge of this machine near the drain hose while opening/closing the lid.  You will see a moving lever.  Wedge a piece of cardboard in there to keep that lever down and you can open the lid while its running.  I'm going to fit mine with some kind of handle I can reach to just trip it when I want instead of having it set all the time to run with the lid open.\n\nWhen this washer first starts the initial spin it can be loud when the spray rinse hits the side of the metal tub.  After that, it spins pretty quiet and does not vibrate.  I can write on a piece of paper on the top of this washer while its spinning.  My old one shook the house and would sometimes walk across the floor if it got off balance.  After many loads this past week to get caught up on laundry, this one has never had an issue.  It spins out without a hitch even if a few things bunch on one side of the basket.\n\nI saw at least one review, maybe more, on this washer about the delicate cycle being problematic.  That cycle works perfectly on mine.  When started on the normal setting, it agitates, pauses, agitates again, then it starts the slow speed spin, sprays, and continues to spin out, fills for the rinse and spins out again. It surely does not just drain the water without spinning at all as someone stated, not even if you put the 2nd rinse button on.\n\nSome people have complained this does not fill all the way up for a large load.  Mine fills pretty high on its own and you can easily override that by holding the reset on.  It will fill till you let go.  Most of my loads are not large, full loads.  If this is the \"water-saving\" requirement this washer had to meet, I'll take it any day over something that decides how much water my clothes need to wash, locks the lid, and attempts to decipher clothes washing with it's computer rather than my brain.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4763, "id": 394846, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 738, "len_tokens": 860, "text": "My new AWN432 was delivered at about 9:15am this morning. I am still trying to clean out a residue from the wash tub so I can use it at 2pm. Alliance says it is a polishing compound residue and told me to clean it with Simple Green. They admitted they have an issue at the factory with these machines going out like this. I have run 2 hot cycles after wiping with Simple Green, washing with Simple Green and washing with Simple Green and ammonia. It seemed to be getting a little better and I'm running white rags thru it now. However, I just wiped clear around the top edge of the stainless steel basket with a white paper towel that came out nearly black. At one point it threw some black stuff across the floor in my laundry room.\n\nMy old Maytag broke down 4 days ago and I eagerly awaited the arrival of this on Monday, so I could wash my clothes again. I'm still cleaning my washer at this point.\n________________________\nWhy, oh why, is SQ telling people to run Simple Green and/or a petroleum distillate product thru this washer to clean it. On my 2nd phone call they offered to send a clean, shiny, replacement tub (for a brand new washer) and then I could arrange to get it replaced under warranty with a local company; or try a petroleum based product. I can't sit home day after day to deal with appliances. I am now on the 7th cycle overall, and the 3rd one using just ALL Free&Clear and hot water. I think it may finally be clean and the ALL seems to have done more than Simple Green. We'll see.\n____________________________\nI did finally get it cleaned out with the laundry detergent (which I wish SQ had advised me to use)and it is a good washer. I cannot rate the product and ignore the issue I had, so 4 stars instead of 5.\n\nBut it cleans the clothes well, has lots of choices for cycles and 2 spin speeds that are preset with the different cycles. There is also a way to easily override that annoying lid switch if you want to see the agitation begin so you know if you have enough water/detergent. Look up under the back edge of this machine near the drain hose while opening/closing the lid. You will see a moving lever. Wedge a piece of cardboard in there to keep that lever down and you can open the lid while its running. I'm going to fit mine with some kind of handle I can reach to just trip it when I want instead of having it set all the time to run with the lid open.\n\nWhen this washer first starts the initial spin it can be loud when the spray rinse hits the side of the metal tub. After that, it spins pretty quiet and does not vibrate. I can write on a piece of paper on the top of this washer while its spinning. My old one shook the house and would sometimes walk across the floor if it got off balance. After many loads this past week to get caught up on laundry, this one has never had an issue. It spins out without a hitch even if a few things bunch on one side of the basket.\n\nI saw at least one review, maybe more, on this washer about the delicate cycle being problematic. That cycle works perfectly on mine. When started on the normal setting, it agitates, pauses, agitates again, then it starts the slow speed spin, sprays, and continues to spin out, fills for the rinse and spins out again. It surely does not just drain the water without spinning at all as someone stated, not even if you put the 2nd rinse button on.\n\nSome people have complained this does not fill all the way up for a large load. Mine fills pretty high on its own and you can easily override that by holding the reset on. It will fill till you let go. Most of my loads are not large, full loads. If this is the \"water-saving\" requirement this washer had to meet, I'll take it any day over something that decides how much water my clothes need to wash, locks the lid, and attempts to decipher clothes washing with it's computer rather than my brain.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4764, "id": 394850, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 687, "len_tokens": 813, "text": "Our old Whirlpool finally gave out and I ended up buying this one. Didn't know anything about Speed Queen washers and just took our local appliance store's word for gospel. They came and set it up and I was good to go. Please understand that this comparison is to my OLD washer, which I loved. I did not have an HE model.\n\nThis washer has some things I like and some I don't so much. First, I hate, hate that you can't open THE TOP anymore without the agitator stopping (it's not locked, but it turns off if it's opened). Just an example of all the over regulation going on within our govt (but that's another review). I have found a way around it by opening the lid about an inch and sticking a flashlight inside so I can see if there's enough soap or water. Anyway, still hate this, but I think all the new washers have to have this amazing 'life saving' safety feature.\n\nNext, the NOISE, it is way louder than my older machine. The slower speed for the gentle cycle is extremely hard to endure and if I put my head lower and closer to the machine, it is over the top annoying. I just don't do that! I just run it and close the door behind me so it's something I've just dealt with over the past couple years. The higher speed is tolerable.\n\nI love the speed of the SPIN CYCLE! That is way better than my old one. I just wish the gentle cycle had the faster speed too. Sometimes, a delicate load comes out too wet so I then put the clothes through the spin in the regular cycle.\n\nI appreciate the switch for the EXTRA RINSE. It was an option and cost me 50 bucks I think, but totally worth it. I use it quite a bit. It lengthens the load's time a bit, but it's just handy to have when you have an extra dirty load.\n\nMy old machine delivered HOT WATER so that's no different on this one, but it sounds like most new machines 'water down' the hot water. That's dumb.\n\nThis machine just won't go out of BALANCE! I love this about my washer. My old one could, at times, act like a bucking bronco. This one has never so much as moved a tiny bit across the floor. And I've washed some pretty big loads including comforters.\n\nI don't like the AGITATOR. My old one would take the clothes down into the machine very quickly. I have to wait on this one longer and combined with the stupid way you can't lift the top without it stopping, it just makes for more time fidgeting around with doing the wash. I wish it pulled the clothes in better, but I can live with how it works and I suppose it is easier on the clothes this way. Still....\n\nWe did have a REPAIR person come out once. This was pretty early on. I had washed a crocheted blanket and I am theorizing that it ended up being very heavy with water (or it got caught somehow, although there was no evidence of this). The machine stopped working, leaving a tub full of water. I kept trying to get it to turn back on over the course of the day, but it just sat there. A repair person came to check it out and by the time he arrived, the machine started working again! This happened one other time since then, but I know now to just let it sit for a day. The repair person did not say it had an automatic shut off, but I really can't remember what he said right now. That was a couple years ago.\n\nI would recommend this washer to anyone who is not overly concerned about the noise level (and maybe mine, for some reason, is just louder than other reviewers' machines). I don't consider the problem with the rinse cycle as anything to worry about. I think it might be 'user error'.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4765, "id": 394851, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 687, "len_tokens": 850, "text": "Our old Whirlpool finally gave out and I ended up buying this one.  Didn't know anything about Speed Queen washers and just took our local appliance store's word for gospel.  They came and set it up and I was good to go.  Please understand that this comparison is to my OLD washer, which I loved.  I did not have an HE model.\n\nThis washer has some things I like and some I don't so much.  First, I hate, hate that you can't open THE TOP anymore without the agitator stopping (it's not locked, but it turns off if it's opened).  Just an example of all the over regulation going on within our govt (but that's another review).  I have found a way around it by opening the lid about an inch and sticking a flashlight inside so I can see if there's enough soap or water.  Anyway, still hate this, but I think all the new washers have to have this amazing 'life saving' safety feature.\n\nNext, the NOISE, it is way louder than my older machine.  The slower speed for the gentle cycle is extremely hard to endure and if I put my head lower and closer to the machine, it is over the top annoying.  I just don't do that!  I just run it and close the door behind me so it's something I've just dealt with over the past couple years.  The higher speed is tolerable.\n\nI love the speed of the SPIN CYCLE!  That is way better than my old one.  I just wish the gentle cycle had the faster speed too.  Sometimes, a delicate load comes out too wet so I then put the clothes through the spin in the regular cycle.\n\nI appreciate the switch for the EXTRA RINSE.  It was an option and cost me 50 bucks I think, but totally worth it.  I use it quite a bit.  It lengthens the load's time a bit, but it's just handy to have when you have an extra dirty load.\n\nMy old machine delivered HOT WATER so that's no different on this one, but it sounds like most new machines 'water down' the hot water.  That's dumb.\n\nThis machine just won't go out of BALANCE!  I love this about my washer.  My old one could, at times, act like a bucking bronco.  This one has never so much as moved a tiny bit across the floor.  And I've washed some pretty big loads including comforters.\n\nI don't like the AGITATOR.  My old one would take the clothes down into the machine very quickly.  I have to wait on this one longer and combined with the stupid way you can't lift the top without it stopping, it just makes for more time fidgeting around with doing the wash.  I wish it pulled the clothes in better, but I can live with how it works and I suppose it is easier on the clothes this way.  Still....\n\nWe did have a REPAIR person come out once.  This was pretty early on.  I had washed a crocheted blanket and I am theorizing that it ended up being very heavy with water (or it got caught somehow, although there was no evidence of this).  The machine stopped working, leaving a tub full of water.  I kept trying to get it to turn back on over the course of the day, but it just sat there.  A repair person came to check it out and by the time he arrived, the machine started working again!  This happened one other time since then, but I know now to just let it sit for a day.  The repair person did not say it had an automatic shut off, but I really can't remember what he said right now.  That was a couple years ago.\n\nI would recommend this washer to anyone who is not overly concerned about the noise level (and maybe mine, for some reason, is just louder than other reviewers' machines).  I don't consider the problem with the rinse cycle as anything to worry about.  I think it might be 'user error'.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4766, "id": 394862, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 696, "len_tokens": 825, "text": "There are several detailed reviews on here, so I'm not repeating everything already written. Just wanted to note the following.\n\nI had a TL Maytag Neptune HE washer that I loved. It washed everything we had and lasted at least 13 years. Last week it stopped spinning and draining - called Maytag and had service man come repair it (this was the first time I ever had to call someone to repair it). Unfortunately he informed me that it would cost a bit over $1,700 to repair. Even though I loved the machine, I'm not about to pay that much to repair a well used washer.  So we began a long, painful search for a new washer.\n\nI was used to the big tub with no agitator taking up space as well as the 1000 rpm spin that made it easier to dry the clothes. I wanted the same quality or better on a new machine. Stainless steel tub, minimal noise, high speed spin, quality, and good looks. Unfortunately, after reading reviews and complaints, etc online for days (and long nights) - The only machine that kept coming up with the quality I wanted was the Speed Queen. It wasn't pretty, had a smaller tub, had an agitator and the spin speeds were lower. Kept searching hoping I could find a nice looking machine that was quiet, didn't tear up clothes and had a good warranty and all the other things I wanted in a washer; but it no longer exists. Apparently I can't have my cake and eat it too.\n\nSo late last night I finally gave up and decided I would just have to get the speed queen. One of the biggest concerns I had was whether or not it would be able to wash my king size sheets and bedspreads. (I don't have comforters - they are great until they need to be washed and then they get lumpy - can't stand that). Anyhow, I figured that I would either have to go a laundrymat to clean my bedspreads or dry clean them in the dryer. But to get a reliable washer for everything else I had to go with speed queen.\n\nI called the local appliance dealer back this morning(spoke with several over the coure of several days - all said go with speed queen). He had his delivery guys come within the hour and install my new washer and take away my old one (definately can't get that kind of service from the big box stores!).\n\nCleaned out machine after they left and started a load. Haven't adjusted water level yet. The clothes came out dryer than I was expecting; but man was that thing louder than my maytag. Ok, finished that load and decided to see if my king bedspread would fit. Put it in (it fit), set it to slow agitation and fast spin and held reset until water level covered it. It washed fine. Onto 3rd load now, testing a load of whites. I think this third load has started before my maytag would have been finished with the first load.\n\nSomething else I noticed that I wasn't expecting; my clothes actually feel softer. We do have a water softener and I always use dryer sheets, but I don't recall our clothes feeling this soft.\n\nHmm, starting to think this might be better than our maytag was. Oh, and I'm using HE detergent. Had a bunch left and I'm not going to waste it. And I haven't had issues with the agitator. It was easy enough to get used to. As far as sound, as long as I shut the laundry room door, it's not bad. So far, my fears were unfounded, except for the way it looks - but since I don't actually have to look at it (after all I can just shut the door) that's not really a big deal.\n\nI might have actually made a really good decision going with speed queen. Thought I would have serious regrets after having a larger HE machine for so long; but for now, I'm actually happy about it. What a relief.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4767, "id": 396883, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 750, "len_tokens": 890, "text": "I bought a similar thermometer/hygrometer last summer for our equipment room in our basement.  The equipment room contains all of our home theater equipment and gets pretty hot.\n\nThe amplifiers, Blu-Ray player, Processors, Computer, etc, all produce a lot of heat and it has gotten up to 84 degrees in there.  Some equipment has even shut down.\n\nSo we need to keep tabs on the temperature until we can get a room AC unit, which is next on the never ending to-do list.\n\nThe previous thermometer was similar to this model, but it wasn't until about a month ago I realized it would cost more to replace the battery than it would to simply buy another unit.\n\nThe old one takes a very strange little battery that closely resembles a Tootsie Roll and since our local Radio Shack went out of business, I don't even know where to begin looking for a replacement.\n\nWhile I was searching for a new thermometer that took regular batteries, I came across this one available at a discount in exchange for my honest review so I jumped on the opportunity since it appeared to be exactly what we needed.\n\nI cannot say for certain it is accurate, but we have yet a third digital thermometer/hygrometer we purchased for the home theater itself and the temperature matches quite nicely between that unit and this new one.\n\nThe humidity isn't exactly the same, but within 2%.  The only thing is, I don't know which one is off.  The old one or this new one.  I suppose Id need a working third one to be able to tell.\n\nIts close enough for us, though, and we mainly need accurate temperature readings, which this seems to offer.\n\nThis is an extremely easy to read LCD screen.  Our old one would have to be tilted a certain way to be able to read it, but this one can be read from about any angle, which is a nice surprise.\n\nIt isn't heavy, but feels like it is well made and durable.\n\nThe old one was about the same size overall, but the readings were smaller because on the main home screen, it displayed the current temperature/humidity and the 24 hour min-max on the same screen.\n\nIn order to see the min-max on this one, you have to press the min-max button.  This is strictly a personal preference, but I do believe I prefer seeing both on the screen at the same time.  I already have to walk into the room to see the readings, so taking another step closer to be able to see smaller numbers (but more information) isn't a big deal.\n\nAgain, thats a personal preference.  You may very well prefer seeing only the current temperature and humidity, so I won't mark this as a con.\n\nThe battery this model takes is easy to find.  Our local Dollar Tree had an 8 pack for $1.00 so I should have enough batteries to last a lifetime!  For reference, it takes an LR1130 round, flat, battery.  Ive heard this referred to as a watch battery before, too.\n\nIve not had this device long enough to know how long the batter will last.\n\nOur old one lasted about one year.  We have another that has lasted 21 months, but it takes two AAA batteries.  Its still going strong, though.\n\nI will update the review when this battery dies or if there are any other problems or issues.\n\nOut of the three digital thermometers weve had in the last year or so, none of them have stated a warning that this one has.  Im a bit concerned, too, because it has to do with the accuracy.  The manufacturer states, Instrument performance may be affected if operated within a high frequency radio field such as near a mobile phone, or if subjected to an electronic shock.\n\nThis device sits on top of an equipment rack and in a room full of electronic equipment, so that could be what is throwing off the humidity sensor and Im afraid over time it may not display the correct temperature.\n\nAll I can do is monitor it and compare it with our other device every now and then and I will do just that and update this review if I find there to be any performance degradation.\n\nFor now, though, Im happy with this purchase.  Its digital, easy to read, looks nice, and is sold at a great price.  What more can you ask for, really?", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4768, "id": 399676, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 700, "len_tokens": 881, "text": "Husband bought this for me (here at Amazon as well) as a Christmas gift (2015) after 7 years of looking and wishing I will find one like this at an affordable price. At the time of our purchase, there was not a single review about this machine so we were like \"We'll see, maybe it will surprise us!\". And surprise us it did!\n\nWHAT'S GREAT ABOUT BUYING THIS WASHING MACHINE?\n_DELIVERY is great!\n_If you live in a condo or apartment and is getting tired of hauling your laundry to the laundromat..(with kind, not nosy neighbors. Know that this machine makes a noise that some people may find annoying. Being on the ground floor will be a plus for you)\n_It DOES the job if you are looking for *A great alternative and help than hand washing your clothes and hauling laundry to the laundromat is like \"giving birth\" each time or that you are concerned of the \"unknowns\" in these laundromats....\n_The NORMAL cycle is very strong and can really make the clothes clean and smelling fresh! Soft cycle is great for delicate fabrics but works just as great.\n_Drain pump is working just fine for me (contrary to some reviews here).\n_The spin dryer is a plus! *DO not expect the spin dryer to dry your clothes like automatic dryers (with heat) in the laundromats because it will not. If you like air drying your clothes minus the drips, then this is perfect.\n\nWHAT THIS MACHINE CAN HANDLE?\n1) 8-10 shirts or 4 cargo shorts and 4 shirts\n2) 2-3 pairs of jeans (can push for 4 if you are petite)\n3) A set of bed sheets (queen size: fitted and flat sheets in + pillow cases); fitted and flat sheets only if flannel sheet set as these get heavier  when soaked in water\n4) 2-3 towels (large)\n5) 2-3 standard size throw blankets (i use mostly fleece blankets)\n6) 1 queen size quilt cotton comforter or coverlet (fluffy or thick comforters will be too heavy for this machine)\n\n(Suggested) CARE FOR THIS MACHINE:\n_Make sure that the you can hear the the water splashing in the washing tub each load. This means that you have just the right amount of clothes in that cycle. It will make the motor run efficiently and not forced.\n_Never set to the max minutes of each cycle (washing or spin drying). 9-12 for washing should be enough and 4 in the spin dryer is just right.\n_Be gentle when you are turning the knob from the wash cycle to drain - this is crucial to the system connected to the pump (from personal experience using a similar twin tub washer back in Asia)\n_Use liquid detergent soap - easy for the machine and you will use less water as well.\n_Wipe it dry after each use.\n\nWhy I am giving this a 4-star rating only?\n_When it arrived and while opening the box with glee, an \"awful\" smell from the washing tub welcomed me.  :( The washing tub was wet - which may be from testing the machine during manufacturing but it should be wiped dry before shipping it to buyers. I am not sure if the machine we got was returned reason why it was wet inside like someone had used it once at least.\n_This is a great portable washing machine (having an extensive experience using twin tub washers like this growing up in Asia, I can honestly say this is a great lean cute machine!). However, the hose to connect from your faucet to the washing tub is too short and the spout doesn't really fit American design faucets. So I had to be innovative - bucket became my BFF! (5 buckets (5L size of bucket) of water for each full load every cycle: soap in (9 mins), 1st & 2nd rinse (6 mins each), 3rd rinse with fabric softener in (6 mins).\n_Do not attempt more than 80% of hot water in any cycle as the plastic (especially back part) will get so soft it almost looks \"bloated\" to me now. It works fine though with 50/50 temperature of water.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4769, "id": 407691, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 594, "len_tokens": 846, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-RJ19DRHQINAJX\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/E14vMb1v3uS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81zsSXuMC8S.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;UPDATE 3/31/16: Another small issue I ran into was the fact that there is no inner lip to prevent the drop-in filter from falling through completely, *if* you are not careful.  Twice now I have accident dropped the entire unit through the opening right into my freshly filtered water.  The typical use case is to just leave the filter there after filtering, but if you saw my second demo video (search for \"Ki5BjvXYK_c\" on YouTube), The pitcher didn't fit under the water dispenser so I had to hold the filter at an angle while dispensing the water into the pitcher.  When I was placing it back it slipped into the pitcher completely, requiring me to pour out the water and repeating the effort.\nAnyway, just something for the folks at EveryDrop to consider fixing in their next revision.\n\nUPDATE 3/25/16:  I found that the filter has progressively gotten faster and faster, however the water has tasted worse and worse as a result.  This really is nothing more than a charcoal filter, and the flow speed directly impacts the taste.\nHere's a YT video I recorded of the filter working at phenomenal speed, filtering literally as fast as the dispenser at my work can fill it.\nLINK: [...]\nIf the link above doesn't work, you can just do a search for \"Ki5BjvXYK_c\" on YouTube.\n\nOriginal Review:\nI hope you find this demonstration video helpful.\n\nTake aways:\n1. Filter is very fast, indeed much faster than other gravity-fed filtration units, such as the Brita, which I've owned.\n2. Water TDS level nearly unaffected.  Filter is largely focused on improving taste, as the primary proponent is charcoal.\n3. Water taste is marginally improved, but a far cry from the taste of Brita filters.\n4. Reservoir is highly impractical for filtering large quantities of water.  At it's fastest (with the reservoir topped off) takes 40-45 seconds for 2 cups of water.  This is a reasonably short period to for a single serving.  But to fill the entire pitcher, it'll take almost 5 minutes standing there pouring.\n5. Maximum quantity of filtered water in the pitcher is 12 cups.\n6. Even after initial wash (with dish soap), the plastic pitcher and funnel had a chemical smell to it.\n7. After opening the filter in the plastic pouch, handling it left a very slick substance on my hand from the plastic. It's a residue of something but I assume it's safe. Nonetheless I would prefer no residue whatsoever in a water filter unit.\n8. Water can get into the handle, despite no access to clean the inside.  The handle is clear so any dried water drops or buildup cannot be cleaned.\n\nFinal thoughts:\nOverall a terribly designed product, despite the innovative filter.  I'm shocked at how a product this poorly designed can make it to market. It seems they did not put it through any real usability testing.  The whole thing looks cool, but it turns out to be pretty gimmicky at best, and also a let down for most folks that actually buy it.\n\nFrom my experience--if you want fast filtration, get sink-mounted PUR filter unit, which filters under line pressure.  If you want purest water, get an RO unit or Zero Water-- both filter water very slowly though. For the best tasting water, stick with Brita or PUR--both are about the same in taste.\n\nPersonally I use my RO system and add Contrace trace elements to improve taste, for my all my coffee brewing needs.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4770, "id": 429139, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 737, "len_tokens": 853, "text": "This cooler really solves a problem for me.  Before now I had a super insulated cooler that was quite large that I would bring with me to camping. Even though ice would stay frozen longer than most coolers, you still needed to replace the ice every few days.  Ice melts and food gets soggy. Not to mention all the room the ice takes up. I thought of getting a mini fridge, but they are heavy and what about the food while you are traveling?\n\nThis cooler seems to have solved all of these issues. It is light weight, has wheels and can keep things cool while you are traveling. It is about the size of your average large cooler. Only difference is that you don't have to take half the room up with having ice in it to keep everything cold. There is plenty of room in there.  I added some pictures for perspective.  As you can see, I have two gallons of water in there, a pack of tangerines, and a dozen eggs.  There is still plenty of room for more food.\n\nI am not going camping until next month so I did an experiment with it when I first got it. I put several items in the cooler to see how it would do. I did not let it cool down first before putting anything in there. I put an already refrigerated  jug of apple juice, a room temperature beer, and frozen solid bottle of water.  The directions say that it is not meant to cool items down but keep items that are already cold at a cold temperature. I checked the cooler a few minutes later after I turned it on. The walls had already gotten cold.  About two hours later I checked on everything. The apple juice was about the same as it was when I put it in there. With the bottle of frozen ice, some of the ice had melted. The room temperature beer, however was now cold. Not ice cold but certainly drinkable. Had I given it more time I believe it would have gotten colder.\n\nOne thing I love about this cooler is that it has both the option to plug it into a cigarette lighter or a wall outlet. Other brands I have looked into only have the cigarette lighter option and you must buy a separate adaptor if you want to use it in a wall outlet. I plan to use this in my tent. So now I can go on a long trip, I can plug the cooler in while I am driving. When I get to my destination I can transfer the cooler to the tent and plug it into an outlet.\n\nOther features that it has, two handles, one is extendable so you can use it with the wheels.  It also acts as a food warmer instead of a cooler if you wish.  I really don't plan to use it as a warmer so I have not tested this out. It also comes with a divider as you can see in the picture.\n\nOnly negative you can even call it that, I wish the cigarette lighter cord was a bit longer.  I will have to strategically place the cooler in the car so it can reach my lighter on the front dash board. I can always use an extension cord for the wall outlet cord.\n\nI received this cooler at a discount in exchange for my honest and unbiased review.\n\n****Update as of 05/16/2016******  Well I just got back from two different four day weekend trips.  I have to say that I am really impressed by the functionality of this unit.  First of all, I can fit so much food in here. I purposely got more perishable foods than not since I have the cooler. Everything says cold and fresh. I really like the dual cords. I have used it both in my car on the way and when I arrived.  My first location was a bunkhouse cabin.  My second location was in a tent. It worked well with flying colors in both places. Every now and then if the cooler got  really jostled, the fan would make a bit of noise, however it would soon quiet down.  All in all I am so glad I got this. No ice, more food, light, wheels, handles, two different ways to plug it in.  Love it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4771, "id": 431936, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 691, "len_tokens": 865, "text": "**** These Binoculars were given to me for free in exchange for an honest review.  Our goal is to give you more information about this product than you would normally see in the product review. This review is informational only and does not reflect on the longevity of the product. ****\n\n***UPDATE 6/16/16***  I took these to the lake and dunked them just to test the Waterproof aspect.  This is what a proper reviewer should be doing - fully testing every possible outcome of a product and when it says it's waterproof, I had to test it.  Well, they failed to be waterproof.  They are water resistant for sure, but couldn't take a full dunking.  That said, the manufacture immediately changed the description and appears to have taken the item down until they can change the word \"waterproof\" to \"water resistant\".  They will be shipping me another pair once they get them back in stock.  Again, this is why we test products - to find these kind of issues so the average consumer doesn't have to.  If anyone ever complains these kind of reviews, remind them that occasionally things break and the manufacture has to make things right.\n\nBeing that they changed the listing, I will leave these at 5 stars because other than the waterproof aspect, these binoculars are very good.  I've also uploaded some pictures.\n****End update****\n\n****UPDATE 6/29/16****\nMaozua sent me replacement binoculars. They are 100% of what the first pair were. Still says Waterproof, but they assure me they are working to get that changed to \"Water Resistant\".  I'm very happy because even though I received these for free, I *really* liked them and was very disappointed when they were waterlogged after I dunked them! Thanks to Maozua for standing behind their product!\n****End update****\n\nBinoculars were received in excellent condition. No issues with the shipping.\n\nThey are very small but seem to be quite adequate. Some folks may find them a tad too small if you are used to the large variety of binocular. The field of view is decent for a binocular of this size. In fact I was somewhat impressed with how well they did.  They were very easy to use and easy to hold - more so than I expected.  They fold up into a compact unit that you can also fit in your pants pocket (not quite).  They would easily fit in a coat or jacket pocket or a medium-sized pocket on a backpack.\n\nThe quality of the materials used seems to be very good.  There is a rubberized coating over much of the binoculars. The lenses appear to have an anti-glare coating of some sort but don't have the characteristic pink hue that comes with some coatings.  The controls are very solid with no wiggle in the mechanisms.  The way the binoculars fold and unfold is tight so it doesnt move easily once you get them to the right position.\n\nAdjusting the eye piece to synchronize the both eyes was someone problematic.  I had a bit of trouble getting them to be completely in focus.  Im not sure if this was the binoculars or if it is my extreme correction.  There was enough adjustment room to get it set to my eyes without my glasses, but I seemed to have issues getting it perfect.  Once I got it close though, and then opened both eyes, it was fine.  I think the trouble I had may have something to do with my stigmatism.  For the record, I have issues with most binoculars over this issue.  :)\n\nOne thing I have not tested is using the binoculars in wet conditions.  They seem to be sealed fairly well, but until I can actually use them in the rain or otherwise get them wet, I cannot comment on this feature.\n\nOverall, I am very impressed with these binoculars.  I intend to take them on kayak fishing trips.  Since Texas has been having floods I haven't had good opportunity to go fishing with them.  I hope to take them this weekend and will report back if they fail the dunk test. :)\n\nThanks!\n\nMike\n@GeeksFishToo", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4772, "id": 433013, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 689, "len_tokens": 806, "text": "6-week update:\n\nThis unit is now my favorite washer. Why? I have full control over the washing and spinning process. I have used it for almost all of my washing needs.\n\nI wish I had purchased one of these long ago. I scoffed at them and dismissed them for a long time. If you think this thing is a toy and not a 'real' washer, you're greatly mistaken.\n----------------\n\nI wanted a second washer so I ordered this unit. I kinda considered these things a joke so I was a bit weary but the online reviews and YouTube videos kinda pushed me. Well, I was so pleased with everything that I also ordered the smaller unit, with drain and spin from Della, for my garage and Airstream.\n\nThe intake hose, although it's not necessary, was too short in my situation but was easily fixed with hoses and fittings from my junk bin. The output hose was long enough, but just barely. The best part, I can fill with all hot water unlike my large home unit which starts filling with cold water that's in the line.\n\nEvery function of this machine has exceeded my expectations. I like it better than my X-large Cabriolet washer and dryer. I have full control over the entire washing/spinning process.\n- I can use much hotter water now (max water temp is 130 degrees).\n- I can have a soak cycle as long as I want.\n- I can add/remove pieces whenever I want\n- The wash timer can be stopped, decreased, increased at any time.\n- I can stop the wash and skim the top water for debris.\n\nThe spin cycle works better than my Cabriolet. Clothes can be as damp or dry (almost) as you desire. I can get most items so dry that my dryer time is greatly reduced or they can be air dried in just a couple of hours. If I use the clothesline outside (and it's only March now), most items are dry within an hour.\n\nIf you open the lid of the washer while it is washing it does not stop washing. You must return the washer dial to zero to stop the wash cycle. If you open the door to the spinner while spinning, it pauses the spin and it resumes once the door is closed.\n\nThe pump does a great job of removing the water. If the washer is sitting on the floor, you can drain into a sink, tub or toilet. The end of the drain hose does not need to be below the level of the unit but if it isn't, it takes the pump a bit longer to drain the unit and a little water remains in the bottom/hose. So, at the end of the pump drain, you can place the drain hose on a big, thick towel on the floor to completely drain the last bit of water.\n\nNote: Lowering the end of the pump hose as much as possible or even below the level of the bottom of the washer, will most likely increase its life. It will put much less strain on the motor.\n\nThe agitation is quite strong but there is a gentle cycle too. Love, love, love the gentle cycle!\n\nThe max capacity is much greater than I expected. I soaked 19 thick men's t-shirts plus a bath towel in one load but I separated the load by half to do a wash cycle. The machine agitated the load just fine but I felt such a heavy load might put too much strain on the motor. I prefer 'play it safe' and protect the motor.\n\nVery pleased with my Della washer.\n==========\nNegatives:\n\nI had a problem with severe tangling (some items were a huge, knotted ball) at first but using the gentle cycle helped a lot. I did a little web research and discovered some people found plastic balls helpful. Lots of small balls didn't do much. Six baseball sized waffle balls during a regular wash cycle have eliminated almost all tangling.\n\nThe knobs can be very difficult to turn if my hands are damp/wet.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4773, "id": 433070, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 640, "len_tokens": 838, "text": "Big capacity - as of 12/2016 it is the biggest twin tub washer available to the US market. Panda sells two 19lb models but they have been out of stock and their distributor tells me they aren't receiving any for a few more months. So as of now, this Della is the KING of portable washers!\n\nGreat washing action. Uses very little laundry detergent like a super high efficiency machine. The biggest issue is the water inlets being on the back of the machine whereas others have them on top. Having them on top is a better design. When they are in the back, water tends to leak due to gravity and the flimsy hose which is far from water tight. Nothing major but expect a few drops on the floor. Considering this Della is almost $100 less than the 19lb Panda, it's a small hassle.\n\nFilling the wash tub takes forever. If you have a 5 gallon bucket, filling it in the shower and then dumping it into the washer would be much faster. I just do it the intended way and multitask while it's filling.\n\n PRO TIP: Because it takes so long to fill, I generally wash my whites first since they won't bleed and reuse the water for subsequent loads.\n\n PRO TIP: Rinsing is done in the spinner. The manual doesn't cover this but all you do is connect the water hose to the spinner side and let the faucet run for a minute or two while it's spinning. Turn off the water and let it spin another 2-3 minutes to dry. Easy peezy.\n\n PRO TIP: Don't overload! The clothes should be able agitate freely in the wash tub. If it has any trouble moving around, you either got too much clothes or too little water. In general, I don't fill past halfway and the water level should be above the clothes.\n\n PRO TIP: The drain hose is meant to hook over the ledge of a sink but the pump is a bit weak and definitely benefits from having the hose low, especially when it comes to draining out that last bit of water. If you have the ability to drain into a bathtub, that's your best bet.\n\nI find it a bit loud. Having the lids closed cuts the noise some but it's not quiet. I live in an older building with thin walls and floors so maybe the vibrations are amplified. Having some sort of rubber mat underneath would help.\n\nThe plastic lint filter is worthless. My advice is to visit your local dollar store, or Daiso if you have one nearby, and pickup the floating lint filters that you just drop in with your load. Something like this:&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Flower-type-Washing-Machine-Floating-Lint-Mesh-Bag-Hair-Filter-Net-Pouch-Blue/dp/B015FN1ACS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Flower-type Washing Machine Floating Lint Mesh Bag Hair Filter Net Pouch,Blue</a>\n\nOther than that, it works well and is heaven sent if you live in a small space or don't have washer/dryer hookups. Don't expect the spinner to get your clothes completely dry. It's more like 70% dry and you hang dry the rest. Blowing a fan or space heater towards them helps if drying indoors. Running a dehumidifier at the same time, even more so. If drying outside, nothing to do other than let Mother Nature run its course.\n\nUPDATE - 12/2017:\nI've had it a year now and use it at least once a week and it still works like a champ. The one thing is sometimes the water doesn't drain from the spinner and it causes the spin to come to a complete stop. To fix it, I turn off the timer, turn on the drain on the wash side until it starts to drain, then switch back and that always fixes the issue. I've read about \"priming the pump\" and I believe that's what this is referred as.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4774, "id": 445391, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 780, "len_tokens": 896, "text": "Ok, My wife wrote the review and I agree that it's nice to have.  VERY NICE, but the screen isn't working right.  I had debated getting the one without the fancy screen but I tried this one instead.  We've both been busy and away unable to catch up and contact the seller about the problem with the screen, and soon as we know how that is handled, we will update this.  Even if we get no help, and it stays like it is, making ice reliably, I can handle no auto timing.  I really like this and it was too cool to get it literally the day before our ice maker in the refrigerator quit due to a leak.  This one did literally outrun the built in ice maker 3 to 1 the first day when they were both running all day.  So If you're interested in one of these, they are great.  Save your money though and get one without a screen and go with the simple one with size of cube selection.\nWife said:\nThis is great for people that do not have an automatic ice maker or go on trips and have to purchase ice frequently. We go on trips a lot so figured we would get this to help fill our coolers. A couple days after getting it, our automatic ice maker stopped working. So this came in handy. It makes a cupful of ice every 9-10 minutes and fills the interior bucket each hour, needing emptied. Although it is not a big basket inside to hold ice, it does the job. Every 2 hours it needs refilled with water. There is a timer that you can set for what time to start making ice and when to stop as well as an option to make small, medium or large cups of ice.\nSadly, After using it for only 3 days the display on the outside has malfunctioned and is not working properly, however it still makes ice, but I cannot set the timer or the clock on the outside.\n\n*Disclaimer* I received this product at a discount or in some cases for free for my evaluation, use and subsequently my HONEST and UNBIASED review.  I REFUSE to rank something 5 stars just because it arrived on time and in good condition.  That to my understanding is for use with the seller rating system and I shall reflect such ratings where deserved there.\n\nI myself have not found a program that does not require you to review the item you get.  So if someone says they do not have to review the item they got discounted or free, Id question their honesty\n\n  If you have rated something on Amazon yourself, if you hover the mouse over the stars they each reflect a suggested level relating to your like or dislike of said product.  I will reserve 5 stars for something that I genuinely think people of similar interest will love.\n\n  I will not review items the day I receive them and actually use them a few days to get a feeling of how well they are constructed and how well they work before sharing my experience. Though Im glad theres a system in place for people to get discounts to review products, I feel that the feedback on amazon is becoming littered with people simply sharing 5 star reviews disingenuously in exchange for free or cheap goods. It is due to this flood of reviews I feel the need to create this disclaimer since many glowing reviews are simply glowing from the sparkle in someones eyes at getting a good deal. I will not post photos on a review just to get credit for posting a photo review.  If there is a lack of photos or I feel a photo or video is needed to convey a pro or con that was unexpected with the product, then and only then will I add such to my review.  Likewise if the product differed from the listing photo, I'll add a photo if there are none at the time of my review.\n\nIt is in the interest of being open and honest that I feel the need to include this disclaimer with my review.  If someone has stated an item is great just so they could get a freebie, it does no help to fellow amazon shoppers.  I value my time and I am not going to waste time putting bogus reviews up.  Your time is just as valuable, so I would like to thank you for reading this completely so you can be enlightened when you see other reviews that were the result of a product/review exchange.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4775, "id": 445571, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 674, "len_tokens": 873, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R3QVEZYPMBE3DA\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/E1PwZHaLsyS.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71NHI3FitwS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;* In the first 2 minute 50 seconds (no music or voice, just the ice maker), you can hear the ice maker run in case some wants to know how loud it is. It's as loud as those Primo water coolers that you put 5 gallon bottles on *\n\n* If you wonder how I got crystal clear ice? I use pure filtered water that I purchase in the 3 gallons bottles. The water is Reverse Osmosis and has 0 ppm (parts per million), that means has no metal or any impurities in the water. The reason why you get white colored ice is because the water has metals and minerals in it and is not filtered to it's purest. *\n\nI've always wanted to get one of these portable Ice Makers when it first came on the market but that time there were too many that had problems. Now years later, technology has improved in the portable ice makers. There are so many on the market today, many of them are pretty much the same, run the same, has the same internal parts, only difference is the design and styling of the ice maker.\n\nSince this is my first ever portable ice maker, I wasn't sure what to expect from this unit. I also wasn't sure which color I like the best, so I order the Silver and the White one. I really like the LCD display. You can set the size of ice you want this machine to produce. You can also setup a timer for it to start and end, great for when you are about to head out on a trip in the morning, have the timer run at night and wake up in the morning with a few pounds of ice.\n\nWhen you first do the initial setup, you want to set the ice size to the LARGE. The reason is that since this is the first time the unit has been run since it was put together at the factory, the refrigerant has not been through the ice tubes. So selecting small will lead to poor results on the first few ices. I started it with a small and it took 3 loads of ice before it would produce perfect ice. Since I purchase 2 of these ice makers, I setup the 2nd one with the initial setup to produce large ice first and it went perfect on the first load.\n\nWhen you first run it, the pump will only pull in a certain amount of water and it will start to beep, thinking you don't have enough water. So all you have to do is run it again and the 2nd time and it will recognized that you have enough water and began the ice making.\n\nWhen you see the \"Snow Flake Blinking\" that means that it is making ice. When you see the icon next to the snow flake blinking, that means that it needs more water.\n\nHere is the amount of time it took to produce the ice size...\n\nSmall - 6 minutes.\nMedium - 7-8 minutes.\nLarge - 9 minutes.\n\nThere is also a drain that is located in the back of the ice maker. Just unscrew it and remove the plug to drain. This ice maker also comes with an extra drain plug. It's very tiny, so don't loose it. Overall I am impress with this DELLA Ice maker and have no problems with them at all.\n\nI have attached some Image / Video, it might not show up right away. Amazon has since change the way how they process these and when it will show up on the reviews. Please be patience. Thank You.\n\nI was offered this item at a discounted price for evaluation, in exchange for an honest review.\n(I know you hate to read that part, but my reviews are always honest, if the product isn't good, then it won't get the stars it deserve).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4776, "id": 453789, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 678, "len_tokens": 881, "text": "We bought this because we were looking for a:\n\n--dual fuel\n--built-in downdraft\n--with convection oven\n--in black\n\nWe needed a range we could use in our island.  I know we could have sprung for a separate downdraft unit or an overhead vent, and gone with any number of other drop-in or slide-in ranges, but that option costs almost again as much as the range itself.  Downdraft Jenn Airs are famous for giving you the flexibility of doing your cooking in places you wouldn't otherwise be able to cook.  And this it does.\n\nAnd while I'm on the subject of flexibility, this Jenn Air is modular (like many other Jenn Air cooktops and ranges).  The down side is that means you can easily spend a few hundred dollars more on additional modules.  Still, we decided to buy them, and we're glad we did.  The range comes standard with a grill, which we really didn't want, because we have mild weather and we grill outside year-round.  But there it was.  So we bought the griddle element that goes over the grill burners, and we have found that to be a real blessing. We do pancakes and french toast and eggs and bacon and panini sandwiches several times a week--and we really don't miss the other two burners all that much.  But if we did need them, we have them too, having also bought them.\n\nThe other reason for buying this range was because we didn't want stainless; we were re-doing our kitchen with black appliances.  And the \"floating black glass\" goes very well with Kenmore or Whirlpool or Kitchen Aid or any number of other glossy-finished appliances.  And our kitchen has a \"period\" look (pine plank floors, glazed cupboards, etc) and the range isn't fighting for attention.\n\nI know about the plethora of comments criticizing Jenn Airs for being unreliable, for having an underpowered fan, even for having underpowered burners.  I know that the convection oven doesn't have the third element in the rear that would make it a \"true convection\" oven.  As Pat Paulson used to say: Picky, picky, picky!  But seriously, folks, in the real world, the vast majority of appliances work as advertised and we don't do flaming cherries jubilee on the cook top.  But we do cook two meals every day, and the thing works marvelously.\n\nThe gas burners cook like gas burners should.  The high (16,000) BTU front burner gives heat immediately--we rarely have it turned on its highest setting.  The back burner can maintain a low simmer, which is convenient for keeping things warm.\n\nThe fan gets the bacon smell out of the kitchen.\n\nMeanwhile, the oven allows you to bake, broil or roast and has both standard and convection modes.  The oven has a rapid pre-heat function that really is rapid.  And we have found the convection oven to be very useful.  We have baked cookies using convection and they came out uniformly brown--but with no time savings.  (You do have the option to bake multiple pans at once, so that would in fact save you time.)  Then we roasted prime rib using both convection mode and the built-in temperature probe, and it worked just as it should.  (We browned the roast on the cooktop in a dutch oven and then roasted it in the same pan at low (200 deg) temperature, and the prime rib was crusted on the outside and moist inside.  Perfect!)\n\nIf you want your range in an odd place (like an island), if you want black appliances, and if you are willing to spring for some extras to really put the \"mod\" into your modular range (buy the griddle--you'll love it!), this range is a solid contender.  We do plenty of cooking at our house, and it works like a champ.  And while it would be nice to have four burners, a griddle and a grill at our disposal in an instant, in practice, we enjoy the two burners and a griddle every day, knowing that the other modules are just a couple minutes away.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4777, "id": 456107, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 714, "len_tokens": 846, "text": "We bought this dishwasher when we were forced to repair our kitchen when our Whirlpool malfunctioned (drip-drip over two years ruined hardwood floors & cabinets).\nSo being that we are an 8 person household, I wanted a RELIABLE system and figured we might need a commercial system but instead, we caught our breath and bought this system. And boy were we glad we did!!! In an 8 person household, when I get the chance to sit and relax after all the kids are in bed, the last thing I want is racket from a dishwasher reminding me of the work I just did. Noise pollution is annoying. This system does the trick. And unlike some of the other reviewers, we've now had it a year and I feel that we are a good control group since we use this system DAILY--at least one full load a day. By the way, my kids are bad about rinsing the dishes off--IF they put them into the dishwasher, the dishes are pretty full of grime.\n\nBUT, we've had our ups and downs with this unit as we learn what it needs to keep it functioning.\n#1 our water is hard, so we have to put the salt tablets into the unit (never had a system where this was required before)--but when the system needs more of these tablets, it just stops working. It had been a bit finicky (by that I mean you press start and it runs for about 5 minutes then gives you \"done\" signal though it hadn't even gotten started)and I had no idea why??? I've finally had the chance to look into it (six kids, no one seems to care; my husband tried to figure it out and threw his hands into the air thinking of calling someone in but I am more dedicated). So I tonight, after two weeks of having to restart the system after it auto-cancelled, I looked into the salt reservoir and saw that it was pretty low so I refilled the salt tablets and now the system is working and again running smoothly (and quietly--I had to get up and check the light it shines on the floor to see if it's on since I can't hear it running).\n#2 one of our sons cooks lots of fatty foods (bacon is his favorite) and seems he may have put very oily dishes into the unit (Yeah! He put his dishes into the dishwasher!!!) I think this is his way of passive agressive destruction because lots of parts are now clogged (as is our sewer system) up to the point that the unit wouldn't drain properly. Now I am sure this isn't Bosch's fault. I hand cleaned much of the interior with soap and water to break the oil up and had to hand clean the prefilter by soaking it in a tub of suds and scrubbing it up. I really should have made the son take care of it but this is one of those times when passive agressive behavior deserves more passive agrressive behavior. I will stop buying bacon and let the kid know he can't cook it in the house until he pays the plumber to come clean our sewer line. Oh, but my little scrub job worked. The Bosch runs again, and smoothly too.\n\n#3 you do have to clean out the pre-filter (with us, we can't seem to keep up with this part) pretty frequently and it doesn't tell you when. You just have to figure it out by the stinch or by the clunky noise when the system is choking on the rinsewater.\n\nAll in all, I believe that this system will last us just as long as the system was pre-engineered to last. Probably just outside the warranty! But, while it's working, I'll be keeping the salt reservoir filled and keeping the food particles tossed from the pre-filter so it doesn't clog up--oh, and my 18 year old son will be able to get his own place if he wants more bacon.\n\nNow I wouldn't say these things are dealbreakers. Most of these issues arise by the full force we give this system. But I enjoy reading the reviews and thought I'd chime in about my own.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4778, "id": 456277, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 719, "len_tokens": 879, "text": "I recently bought a larger home with a ton of kitchen space.  Having ambitions to renovate the entire kitchen to a cooks paradise, I made my first purchase with this refrigerator and the matching freezer. I have had it for four months now and could not be happier.\n\nI selected this model for it's size and simplicity.  I cringe at the \"features\" offered by other high end appliances... An ice maker that takes up 1/3 the volume of the freezer?  No thanks!  Without boring you with the other obvious differences you'll find with this model (window, etc.) I'll summarize some things I have noticed over the last few months of ownership:\n\nSound.  It's a little more noisy than I expected.  Albeit a subjective observation, the noise sound of it humming along was noticeable the first few nights.  I do not have the wheels installed, and do plan on enclosing it for a built in look.\n\nGlass design a non-commercial setting.  Some of my friends thought the glass design would look too commercial in my home.  Once they saw it installed they were blown away with how good it looks, especially next to the matching freezer.  The light stays on and serves as a nice night light as well.  There is a switch to turn the light off if you choose.\n\nDoor closing.  I read up on as many reviews as I could find prior to purchasing.  Some people noted door closing problems.  I have had none, and in fact noticed it closes itself well when the door is released (without any effort). FWIW, The door seals on the matching FREEZER are very good.  Once you close the door, you can hear the pressure equalizing for 10 seconds. During this period it's VERY hard to open.  So if you grab something, close the door, then decide to open it again, you have to wait a few more seconds.\n\nONE YEAR UPDATE:  It's been a little over a year since buying this and I wanted to update everyone that I am still very happy with my choice on both this and the matching freezer.  People continue to complement how impressive it looks in the kitchen.  I have now made a habit of looking into the glass (rather than opening first) to decide on dinner/snack options- I never realized how functional the glass would be (as silly as that sounds).  I almost wish I had glass on the freezer too.\n\nThe freezer was left open overnight by someone in the house.  Most everything in the front had defrosted with blood and water pooling at the bottom.  Upon discovering the problem I closed the door and un-plugged the freezer.  The compressor was burning hot and I wanted it to cool down.  After setting up a fan in front of the compressor, and waiting an hour,  I plugged it back in and hoped for the best.  I waited half a day before checking it again and everything was back to normal.  I do not know if I did any permanent damage to the freezer, but it has since performed flawlessly- Ice cubes freeze amazingly fast and ice cream is usually too hard to scoop.\n\nTWO YEAR UPDATE:  Both refrigerator and freezer are going strong.  I have had to break ice off the fan in the freezer on two occasions. Without the fan, temps will slowly rise.  Ice had also built up in the back once, requiring some break up.  The refrigerator has been working great.  I still enjoy and use the window.  I really enjoy how the shelf can canted at whatever angle you desire to display your food.  This is helpful for the top few shelves, but impractical for the lower shelves.  I have even aged several sub-primal sides of beef in the fridge.  It seems the open air design with only wire shelves lends itself to aging meat.\n\nTHREE YEAR UPDATE:  The refrigerator has been working flawlessly.  I really enjoy the luxury of extra space when I need it... like being able to put a 5 gallon bucket in the fridge for brining a turkey, or aging an entire subprimal piece of beef.  The freezer required a full defrost about 6 months ago.  I also disassembled part of the interior as ice had formed behind the top and back panels.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4779, "id": 456284, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 681, "len_tokens": 809, "text": "First, this has been a great addition to our kitchen/bar area. The kids love the easy access and my wife and I use it nearly every day as we store coffee creamer and other 'morning beverages'. She loves the separate wine storage areas, which do work great for parties.\n\nThe unit looks excellent installed, and the two pull-out shelves shown in the pictures are stain-grade wood. I haven't stained mine to match our cabinetry yet, but it is on my to-do list! Using the fridge is as easy as setting the temperature dial, deciding what units you want the temperature displayed in (centigrade or fahrenheit) and loading it up.\n\nSo far the unit has kept temperatures right at the design spec at maximum cool. The cold section remains 37 (98% of the time), the white wine drawer (there's only one of these) stays at 48, and the red wine section which is one pull out shelf and one crappy wire shelf at the bottom that comes out but not easily stays a nice 57 degrees. I have not put in my own thermometer to check the accuracy of the displayed temperatures, but by going on feel alone the wines and beverages are at the correct temperatures.\n\nThe bottom shelf design is what keeps me from giving this unit 5 stars. It would have been so nice had Kitchenaid designed the fridge so that the bottom shelf pulled out like the two wood-front shelves shown in the picture. The two wood shelves slide out nicely on rails. The bottom shelf rests on the bottom of the unit, has rubber pieces on the sides, and is a pain in the rear end to pull out when loaded with wine bottles. There are two 'stops' on each side of the bottom that have to be overcome to get the shelf out far enough to read the bottle and/or get the wine out easily. Bad design, and really one of only two things I can find fault with.\n\nThe second issue, which may or may not be by design, is that the temperature will rise on it's own (without using the fridge or adding room temperature beverages to it) to approximately 43 degrees in the cold section. It does this periodically almost as if it's a normal cycle to remove moisture. It doesn't stay at this temperature for very long, but it does do this on a somewhat regular basis. That being said, 98% of the time the cold section is 37 degrees plus 1 or 2 degrees occasionally.\n\nWhen loading the unit with canned drinks, wines or other beverages after a store run, it really doesn't take very long to cool things back down. The temperature will noticeably rise for a short time with the warmer items, but not for long.\n\nAs I stated above, we're going on almost two years, and the fridge has been a wonderful, useful addition. I waffled back and forth about getting a wine refrigerator or beverage center, and I'm very glad we went with the beverage center option.\n\nIf it keeps going another year or more without needing repairs I'll be happy. I have read a lot of negative reviews on wine refrigerators. Reliability does seem to be an issue, even with some Kitchenaid models. However, not even Viking or $3000 brands are without their share of negative reviews. Crossing my fingers that we'll get many more years use out of this great little unit.\n\nI'd recommend this to anyone refinishing a kitchen or simply adding an area for a bar. I would not use this outside even under a covered porch. It's simply not designed to withstand the elements in that way.\n\nGood luck in your search, and if it ends here I don't think you'll be disappointed!\n\nUpdate: December 3, 2012. The Beverage center is still performing well. The temperature of the cold section stays between 37 and 39 most of the time, but still rises to 41 for a short time every few days. Still pleased with the purchase, and I'd still buy it again.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4780, "id": 457092, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 683, "len_tokens": 868, "text": "I've had this range for about a year and a half, and it's been pretty good.  We use LP as the fuel.  I do like the convection; things bake faster with it.  Although if I had it to do over I would probably go with straight gas and save the extra money the dual fuel costs.  Oh, and the griddle is almost not worth the bother.  It's too small and doesn't heat evenly.  I'm better off with a couple of nonstick frying pans for cooking the pancakes.  On the other hand, I love being able to exactly dial in the temperature of the oven, so I can easily cook something at 395 degrees or set it at 210 for the meringues.\n\nHowever, never in my wildest dreams did I imagine that GE would do what they did -- cheap out and put plastic knobs on the front that melt when you broil with the door open.  My husband was broiling with the door shut, which I hate because it gets too hot in the oven, grease spatters everywhere and burns onto the surfaces inside the oven, and there is always the possibility of forgetting the broiler is on and maybe burning down the house.  So I decided to show him how it's done; I did up some tri-tip very nicely in the broiler with the door ajar.  \"Are you sure you're supposed to do it that way?\"  he asked in panic.  \"Of course\", I explained condescendingly, \"that's why the oven door has a stop at partly open, so you can broil.\"\n\nThe next day I noticed the plastic knobs were melted.  They look like stainless steel but they are plastic. I looked in the manual and sure enough, it says \"The oven door MUST be closed during broiling.\"  I looked in a manual for a different GE Profile oven, and those directions were to broil with the door open!  What is the difference? On that model, the knobs are located on the back panel, not above the door.\n\nSo GE redesigns the thing to have the knobs above the door, puts on cheap plastic knobs, and finally changes the operating manual to instruct people to broil with the freaking door closed so the knobs won't melt!  If that don't beat all, as my grandpa would have said.  Wonder if maybe there are some aftermarket metal knobs?  Or perhaps it's time to get a gas grill for the steaks.  Oh no, here we go again, trying to find a straight-up, well built product.  I do miss the days when American manufacturers made things here, and made them right.\n\n*******\n\nAfter giving this some thought, it's a function of the dual fuel design.  Old style gas ranges had the broiler below the oven where broiling heat wouldn't reach the knobs.  Electric ranges have the knobs on the back panel where the broiling heat can't reach them.  Dual fuel has the knobs on the front with the broiler element just below them on top of the oven.\n\nMetal knobs wouldn't work, I guess, because they would get too hot.  So my bad (apologies GE), I will just get a gas grill for meat.  You can get away with broiling toast or something that finishes in a couple minutes.\n\n********\nFebruary 2012\nGE sent me new knobs, which are much better than the flimsy old ones, for free.  I'm changing my review to 5 stars for this reason, also because I really like my range.  Here are a couple of tips:\n\n1) Buying a square nonstick pan will work better for pancakes than the griddle.  It's heavy and heats unevenly.\n2) The convection oven ROCKS.  Instead of cooking in a shorter time, though, it's better to set the temperature from 35-50 degrees F cooler than what the recipe says when baking, and it will bake in the same time as the original.  Less likely to burn things.\n3) Probably better to run the self-clean cycle oftener than once every 2 years. To clean the oven racks, Barkeepers Friend works really well, they scrub up like new.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4781, "id": 457550, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 660, "len_tokens": 804, "text": "Full disclosure - we did NOT buy these from Amazon, but as a frequent Amazon buyer I still want to warn Amazon customers about them.\n\nWe bought these units in 2004 when we were redoing our kitchen.  We thought we were so smart in buying a \"budget SubZero\".  Whirlpool has always been great, and the rest of our kitchen is Kitchen Aid, which is made by Whirlpool.  Since KitchenAid didn't make a version, we bought these.\n\nWe returned the first pair because the doors were so wavy I was afraid of installation issues for our custom wood panels (more on that later).  When the delivery man came with the new ones he came in and saw ours and asked me to come out to the truck and look at the new ones because he thought the new ones were worse than what we had.  He was right.\n\nOnce we had decided to put up with the waviness, we discovered that the units are so thinly built that they wobble whenever you open the doors.  Most refrigerators are stamped like these, with some supplemental steel bracing to hold them steady and provide mounts for the wheels, adjustable legs, compressor, coils, etc.  No unique design here, just really thin steel and not much of it.  The freezer compressor in particular banged a few times whenever we opened or closed the door, and each unit gyrates around about an inch at the top.  I began making welded angle iron bases but stopped.\n\nNext, they're not as tall as \"real\" refrigerators, so you stoop over more than usual to access them.  Of course we had the upper cabinets made to fit above these shorties, so now replacement with something else means we have to order new upper cabinets.  We also ordered custom raised-panel door trim from our cabinet maker, only to find there was no trim mounting kit available, so that needs to be custom made too - I don't happen to have a nice clean brake to bend brushed stainless myself.  There is a trim kit now, nearly as expensive as we paid for each unit originally, and it's only usable if they're side by side, and maybe doesn't even hold custom wood front panels - I didn't investigate.\n\nThe fatal flaw, however, is that the freezer defrost drain freezes up intermittently - maybe within a week or two after thawing it, maybe a few months later - but it freezes up again and again.  When it freezes defrost water runs down into the floor of the freezer and eventually onto the floor.  It takes maybe an hour to remove the baskets (not a good thing on a hot summer day), lower shelves, and back interior panel to gain access and thaw the ice - then put everything back together.  Since the units back to our furnace room, I don't think it's because the units are in too cold of an environment.  Maybe a heat tape around the top of the drain fitting would help, but it's just above the compressor and should be warm enough already.  And this is a common problem that Whirlpool ought ot acknowledge and address.\n\nWe finally gave up and moved them to an area where leakage is less damaging than our 2004 hardwood floors, which have now been refinished twice thanks to the leaky units.  Yesterday I took the freezer outside to really defrost it well with no mess inside the house, and discovered that thanks to a cheap door liner design (holes where each of the flimsy container-holding bars insert), the door is full of ice inside too.  I'm sure it's rusting as well.\n\nThey still work, and would be fine in somebody's unfinished basement where water leaking from a frozen-drain freezer isn't such an issue, but we've replaced them with a single, French-door refrigerator.  No way in the world will we again buy anything but top of the line with a long, full-coverage warrantee.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4782, "id": 457837, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 627, "len_tokens": 808, "text": "First off I'm not positive this is the exact model of range that we have---I can't find any model numbers on our range as I prepare to write this review----so check these facts against what you are about to buy.\n\nWe have never had a gas range before----so didn't know enough to check some things about this one before we bought it.  Of course the salesman told us it was top of the line---best quality product we could buy.  MAYBE NOT.  It does look good and we love the convection oven and the warming oven below the main oven---both electric by the way.  The PROBLEM which we discovered right away was that there is is a SEVERE DANGER---particularly for those like us who have had no experience with gas.  We had a pot of something boiling on a burner and it boiled over and the overflow water extinguished the flame.  We didn't notice that the flame had gone out. The  gas continued to flow filling the kitchen and adjoining rooms .  We came back in to discover the house filled with gas.  I turned off the gas flow from the valve outside.  That was providence watching out for me because I discovered later that had I tried to turn the gas off at the range I might have blown myself , and the house, to bits.  This is because TURNING THE RANGE CONTOL KNOB OFF WILL RESULT IN A SERIES OF IGNITION SPARKS BEFORE IT SHUTS OFF THE FLOW OF GAS.  THINK ABOUT THAT!  I called Customer service----they acknowledge that there is NO SAFETY MECHANISM WHICH WOULD AUTOMATICALLY SHUT DOWN THE FLOW FO GAS IF THE FLAME GOES OUT FOR ANY REASON.  TRY THIS-----TURN YOUR BURNER DOWN LOW AS IT WILL GO----BLOW HARD AND BLOW THE FLAME OUT--NOTICE THAT THE GAS CONTINUES TO FLOW FROM THE BURNER---IF YOU NOW TURN THE BURNER KNOB BACK TOWARD ZERO YOU CAN'T SHUT OFF THE GAS FLOW BEFORE TRIGGERING THE ELECTRONIC SPARKING WHICH ORIGINALLY IGNITED THE FLAME.  THAT SPARK WILL IGNITE THE GAS THAT HAS ACCUMULATED AROUND THE BURNER.  I CAN'T THINK OF A BETTER WAY TO BLOW YOURSELF UP IF THE GAS HAD BEEN FLOWING INTO THE HOUSE FOR ANY SIGNIFICANT PERIOD OF TIME.\n\nWe have written Customer Service about this--several times and to this date they have not given us the courtesy of a written reply.\n\nWe have learned to be very very careful with the gas burners---it is possible to just 'nudge' the burner know when wiping the stove such that the gas begins to flow but the igniter is not activated---again an explosion hazard.  If you buy one of these ranges be sure you ask about these things and be suer you are willing to accept this risk if they haven't addressed this problem\n\nOne other con-----when we clean the oven with the self cleaning feature then the 'overload' breaker kicks out on the back of the machine and we have to pull the thing out, remove the back cover, and reset it manually by pushing the reset button.  Customer service did send us a replacement breaker which was installed by their service man---but it works just like the first one. We still have to go to the trouble of pulling the range out so we can get to the back to remove the pan and to manually reset the thing before the oven will work ----and we have to do this EVERY TIME WE USE THE SELF CLEANING FEATURE.\n\nExcept for the above everything works quite will----and the thing is quite attractive.  --I'm told that other manufacturers have safety shutdown features that this one does not have.  I give it two stars because it looks nice and does have some nice features associated with the convection oven.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4783, "id": 458977, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 728, "len_tokens": 848, "text": "This washer has several reported flaws. One reported by many folks and the only one we came up against since owning the washer (SN FR204563T) is the fact that towels do not  complete their Rinse and Spin cycle properly. GE Service folks will not acknowledge this as a problem (nor are they able to fix it) despite four service calls and many, many others with the same reported problem. Here is what we consider the problem to be and why it is a lemon or a poor design or BOTH!\n\nWe bought this unit in May, 2009 and have been struggling with GE to get it fixed since then. This matter is NOT RESOLVED.\n\nBulky items like towels absorb more water in the wash and weigh more when wet. Because the tub is vertical the clothes always start on the bottom of the tub. The machine fights gravity when these items occupy the tub and the tub starts its cycle unbalanced. As it fills with a minimal amount of fresh water and proceeds to rinse and spin, the speed of the drum is supposed to increase step by step and the items inside are supposed to be forced to the circumference of the drum. The they are pressed to it by the ever increasing speed, centrifugal force of the spinning motor. That is the design of the product and is similar to other front loaders from what we found out.\n\nHowever, if the items do not float around in the rinse water agitation properly and do not move to the circumference of the drum to distribute themselves accordingly (perhaps because of their weight, bulk or other reasons), then the proper speed cannot be achieved because of an unbalanced load condition.\n\nThe machine has a balance sensor that quickly detects a bad distribution of items in the drum. The machine then attempts to rebalance itself at low speed by reversing the spin of the motor/drum to shuffle the clothes to a good position. This rebalance cycle (stop, slowly reverse spin direction) is attempted up to five times. When that fails, the machine goes ahead to try to spin and rinse out the wash water anyway. The why of that failed distribution with a bulky load is apparently a contested issue between us, simple users of the machine, and GE the maker who claims to be cognizant of the issue. Thus far, GE seems incapable and increasingly unwilling to fix the problem. They have documented the crap out of the problem, reporting each time that they find no trouble. The technicians have been able to see the problem here in their visits and acknowledge that the problem \"can occur\".\n\nGE seems to feel that if the load matches (is either sufficiently full or sufficiently light for) their machine due to the bulk of the items and the water-infused weight of them, then they should cycle properly. And in the case of our load of two hand towels, a bath sheet and two standard bath towels, we can add another large bath sheet to the load to make it complete without errors. So, since there is \"nothing wrong with the machine\",  their solution is that in the event of a balance issue, we should add or subtract \"an appropriate amount of towels/clothes to prevent the error\".\n\nWe feel, not too surprisingly that the size of the load, as long as it meets the maximum rating of the machine, is immaterial and the washer should complete its job in its normal cycle regardless- without banging or rebalancing (which wastes water and energy and may damage our floor or walls by it's (the washer's) bouncing around. The washer physically moves at least 6\" in any direction on the tile floor during this condition. We feel that this is unsafe, exceeds the  claimed advantages of water, energy, and savings. It also affects the long term reliability of their product.\n\nConsumer Reports rated this product in January, 2009 as 'best buy'. Since that rating there have been 27 pages of complaints to the Consumer Union web site.\n\nGE has, thus far, refused the alternative we proposed:\n* Redesign the product and exchange this model for such new product, in effect a recall.\n* Fix the product.\n* Return our purchase  price.\n\nWe are continuing to negotiate with them in the hope of a favorable resolution.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4784, "id": 459118, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 645, "len_tokens": 819, "text": "This is a truly outstanding cooktop.  I have cooked with electric, gas, and now magnetic induction, and magnetic induction has been the most enjoyable experience by far.  It's really not even close.  Prior to hooking this cooktop up I timed how long it took my (previous) gas oven to cook 96 ounces of water in an uncovered pot: 11 minutes and 30 seconds.  When I hooked up this cooktop and tried the same amount of water in the same pot, it took 4 minutes and 45 seconds to bring it to a rolling boil. It is amazing how fast this thing cooks.  I can boil water in a small saucepan in under 2 minutes.\n\nAnd not only does it heat things up amazingly fast, but it also allows one to bring the temperature way down to do things like delicately melting chocolate.\n\nAnother huge plus about this cooktop is that the hobs (\"hobs\" is a more official word for \"burner\") are diagonal instead of the typical way they are laid out in strips of two each. This was the main reason I narrowed down to this particular induction cooktop (other than it being made by Miele, a company that makes ultra-superb products).  By placing the hobs diagonally it opens up a lot more space for placing cookware. I've had all four hobs used up by relatively large cookware, without any of the pieces bumping into each other.  This was also the reason I went with the 30-inch model instead of the 36-inch (well, that and the fact I would've had to do some cabinet rearranging to get the 36-inch model into place). Simply put, with the diagonal layout I didn't feel the need for a fifth hob.\n\nIt's a breeze to clean, you can associate a timer with each hob to control when each shuts off (a great feature for, say, pressure cooking), the range of cooking temperatures is very wide, and it's great to know that when I hit \"7\" for a temperature that I get a rolling simmer and when hitting \"6\" I get a lower simmer--every single time.  Also, provided you have a decent set of cookware (and likely even if you don't), say goodbye to hot handles: induction cooktops are so efficient that unless using cookware laden with very cheap handles (and I bet even cheap handles wouldn't make a difference) your handles won't heat up.  We've been cooking with this cooktop for 6 months now and we have yet to experience a warm handle.  I'll note here for people unfamiliar with induction cooking that the cooktop doesn't actually use heat to heat up the pan.  Instead, it uses magnetic induction, which causes the cookware to heat up.  Consequently, you need magnetic cookware in order for this to work--such as magnetic stainless steel or cast iron.\n\nOne thing I should note is that I specifically bought a very expensive set of cookware to use with this cooktop: the Demeyere Atlantis collection.  I mention this only because I have read that cheaper cookware may emit some buzzing or even popping when used with induction cooktops.  The Demeyere cookware does not emit any noises, and I'd expect that because it really was designed for induction--though also perfectly capable of cooking wonderfully with gas or electric.  So, if you're going to buy this kind of cooktop, I suggest going all the way and getting some quality cookware.  I should also note that the Demeyere Atlantis cookware is incredible cookware...it is leagues above the cookware we had prior to getting it.  You should see how it cleans!\n\nThis is a wonderful, well designed product and I give it 5-plus stars.  My wife and I love cooking with it and cooking is noticeably more enjoyable since we've had it. If you can afford to buy a Miele product you very likely won't be disappointed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4785, "id": 462159, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 624, "len_tokens": 805, "text": "NOTE: I actually purchased the Sunpentown IM-101S, but it is the identical machine inside.\n\nPLEASE DO NOT LET OTHER POOR REVIEWS TURN YOU AWAY FROM AN EXELLENT MACHINE!\n\nI purchased my IM-101S Sunpentown Ice Maker through Amazon on August 26, 2011. I wonder why several people have reported machines with marginal reliability and broken parts after only a few months? Hard water? Maybe that's the key, I use soft water. It's easier on the parts. :)\n\nBut seriously, I have had the Sunpentown IM-101S for just over THREE YEARS now. During that time it has not just sat around doing nothing. We have a family of five who use it 24/7. Our ice maker is never unplugged and never turned off. I originally bought it to fill in when the ice maker in our refrigerator broke. Although I knew I'd fix that one eventually, I wanted a spare ice maker since our family hates being without ice. After repairing the ice maker in our refrigerator, we decided to make THAT ice maker the backup for the Sunpentown. There are two reasons for that: ONE, the Sunpentown makes more ice than the refrigerator ice maker. TWO, the refrigerator ice maker can be turned off for long periods of time without getting dusty or smelling funny.\n\nThe ice maker in the refrigerator only gets turned on once-in-a-while when we have company or when it's a really hot summer and we need extra ice. Other than that, the Sunpentown is our ice maker of choice.\n\nFINALLY - Just last week (October 5, 2014), after THREE YEARS of use, there was a failure. Yes folks, the machine broke. But this is a story with a good ending! The failure was easy to diagnose, easy to fix and very inexpensive. What failed? The plastic rotator pin on one end of the water tray that goes into the motor broke off. That meant the water tray would not rotate. The digital screen gave an error message saying that the \"ICE SHOVEL CANNOT ROTATE\". Although an accurate statement, it's not really the problem. The shovel is just the floppy plastic scraper attached to the front of the water tray. The reason the shovel cannot rotate is because THE WATER TRAY CANNOT ROTATE. Therefore, the part to order when you get this error is the WATER TRAY, not the ice shovel. Sunpentown sells the water tray for only $20 plus shipping (and tax if you are in California). I ordered two just to have a spare.  They arrived just three days after I placed the order.\n\nHere is the website for the Ice Maker parts:\nhttp://www.sunpentown.com/paacforicema.html\n\nHere are instructions for replacing the water tray complete with step-by-step pictures:\nhttp://site.sunpentown.com/IM-100.101_watertray.pdf\n\nUsing those instructions, it took just a Phillips screwdriver and 15 minutes to disassemble the machine. While I had it apart, I took the opportunity to clean the dust bunnies out and look over the inner workings of the machine. I am an aerospace manufacturing engineer, so I understand machines. Except for the plastic water tray, this is a pretty robust machine. Like a refrigerator, the cooling system should last for many long years. Keep in mind that even very expensive refrigerators use generic plastic ice makers that tend to need repair or replacement every two or three years. That puts this Sunpentown ice maker right on part with your expensive refrigerator.\n\nI reassembled my Sunpentown IM-101S ice maker in about 20 minutes (I took time to Loctite some of the sheet metal screws because they are pretty loose). My ice maker is now back up and running just fine and once again has become our main ice maker. I turned off the refrigerator ice maker to save for future emergencies.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4786, "id": 463702, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 697, "len_tokens": 832, "text": "In April of 2009 we purchased several Architect Series stainless steel KitchenAid appliances from a local authorized dealer including a diswasher, microwave, stove, warming drawer and a 36\" cooktop and downdraft unit (~$10,000 of product).  When the cooktop unit arrived it was installed by the local dealer's service technicians.  During the installation we discovered that a number of pieces were missing from the cooktop including burner tops that prevented us from using the cooktop.  After 3 to 4 phone calls to Whirlpool and about 2 weeks later we finally received the parts and discovered that Whirlpool (owner of KitchenAid brand) had sent the wrong parts.  After several more phone calls we were finally sent what we thought were the remaining correct parts.  After the technician arrived to install them he found that we were missing more burner parts from the high capacity burner and that using the burner without these parts had scorched the cooktop slightly.  At the same time we discovered that the downdraft system activation button was not working correctly and more new parts for both items were ordered by the technician.  A new cooktop was ordered and then installed about 3-4 weeks later by the local dealer.  After the cooktop was installed we discovered that it was scratched badly and ordered another.  About 2 weeks later the parts for the downdraft arrived and were installed by the technicians.  The next day the downdraft system got stuck in the up and on position and could not be turned off.  Another cooktop arrived several weeks later and was installed.  I called the local dealer frustrated at having paid for a new cooktop in April and still not able to use it fully in late July and was told by the owner that we had to wait to have a Whirlpool authorized 3rd party technician come to our house to evaluate the unit before Whirlpool would do anything to replace or repair the downdraft unit.  Meanwhile, after 4-5 phonecalls and being transferred around in Whirlpool's \"customer service\" bureacracy of divisions we tried to get a replacement unit and were told by Whirlpool that they would send us one but that they were on backorder and it would be mid-August before one could be delivered to our home.  We asked them if they could find one at a distributor or retailer and have that unit sent to us and were told by the \"customer service\" person that they don't do that.  They furthermore said that we could try to do that on our own but that they would only refund exactly the discounted price that we paid from the local retailer and not what we would have to pay to get one delivered from somewhere else in the country to our home.\n\nI run a manufacturing business that sells products in the same price range as these appliances through distribution to retail stores.  We occassionally make mistakes as do all companies.  When a customer has a problem, our customer service ensures that the customer is taken care of immediately either through a local retailer or directly from us.  We see a problem as an opportunity to have customers rave about our service levels to other potential customers and realize that service attitude and responsiveness pays for itself several times over in the positive word of mouth versus the negative that would occur if we didn't do this.  Whirlpool had a huge opportunity to have my wife and I telling a wonderful customer service story that would have positively influenced other potential customers in an affluent community where many of our friends and neighbors are upgrading kitchens.  Instead I will be telling as many people as I can both verbally and online about my experience and the impact to their sales will be 10-100 times what it would have cost them to be nice to us and try to solve our problem.  I hope that someone in the management of Whirlpool someday gets this message and uses it to change the company for the positive. Meanwhile, I suggest that if you can, you should avoid buying any of the brands that are made and serviced by Whirlpool.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4787, "id": 464232, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 670, "len_tokens": 840, "text": "We got this adorable little gas range for our new place this past autumn. Our old one was on its last legs, and even though it was a full size range, we decided to opt for this 20\" model. We don't plan on cooking a 20lb turkey or anything, so this was plenty big for us (though some talented soul probably could pull off a 20 pounder to perfection in this thing.)\n\nNeed More Room In Your Kitchen?\n\nSure, there's only 10 inches difference in the width of this one compared to a standard 30\" range, but sometimes, a small variance makes all the difference in the world. Getting this compact range allowed us to rearrange our kitchen so we could fit a compact LG Washer Dryer Combo, and THAT, my friends, HAS made an E.N.O.R.M.O.U.S impact on our quality of life for sure! All of which would not have been possible without this small and mighty range! To help you visualize it, just imagine a standard range with the 2 columns of burners, on the left and right. Between them, is the empty center column, which we all basically use for spoons and trivets. Well, if you remove that center column and then squish the 2 sides together, you get this little range. But don't let the size fool you, it's still plenty spacious in there. Yes, we do have to put our large cookie sheet in sideways now, but it still fits just fine.\n\nInside Dimensions\n\nThis range is deeper than it is wide, and it's just as deep as a standard range; only the width has been condensed. The approximate inside dimensions of the oven are: 14\"w x 19\"d x 16\"h. It has 2 adjustable racks, so that gives 2 levels of cooking space. Perfect for us.\n\nHeat Accuracy & Performance\n\nThe temp dial for the oven seems pretty accurate to the actual temperature. No, I haven't measured anything scientifically, but going by instinct and compared to the other ranges I've had in my life -- this one beats them all. I learned how to tweak my other ranges up or down to accommodate for variances, but with this little guy, 400 means 400; and so on, down the line of temps. We've had this about 4 months now, and use it daily. So we have plenty of experience with it and are very happy with how it has performed for us.\n\nAuto-Ignition Oven & Burners\n\nIt took a couple of months before I stopped instinctively reaching for a lighter to ignite the burners for my morning oatmeal. This thing has an auto ignition that does NOT require a lit pilot; not for the oven, and not for the burners. Sounds like no biggie? Guess again. Those tiny little burning pilots go a long way in heating up the entire house during a blistering summer, which in turn, makes us ramp up the A/C. So not having any lit pilots that stay on 24/7 is a huge deal. These electric ignitions work like a charm, each and every time. It took 4 months, but I've finally stopped reaching for that darn lighter.\n\nBroiler\n\nYes, this does have a broiler and rack on the bottom. We haven't used it much, but like that it's there.\n\nOven Light\n\nAnother H.U.G.E improvement! Our old range did have a window on the oven door, but no light inside; another 'little thing' that's actually a B.I.G thing. We love being able to look inside at what's cooking without opening the oven door. We use the light all the time. Fantastic!\n\nBottom Line -- We LOVE our small and mighty little gas range. Amana has been around for years, so we trust our little gas range will be too. And it looks really good too. Nothing but love here for that little guy!! Thanks to him, we now get to do laundry at HOME for the first time in 25 years! Thanks little cutie; you've helped make a big difference in our lives!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4788, "id": 465052, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 740, "len_tokens": 861, "text": "I have owned this model for a few years now and cannot be more pleased.\n\nI live with my boyfriend in a small upstairs apartment. One day while taking a regular trip to our gross, ghetto Laundromat I was shocked to see that the owners raised the prices on the washers to $2.00 a load! This might not be much compared to other cities but the laundromat was not upgraded in any way to warrant a raise in price so the next day I went to Sears and purchased this washer. We have not been back to the laundromat since.\n\nI also have to tell you that my boyfriend works in construction and gets his clothes muddy, smelly, generally dirty and he has owns more clothing than me. This washer has never had a problem handling any of it. It has a great variety of settings; Heavy Duty, Normal, Permanent Press and Hand Wash. The two settings we use the most are Heavy Duty and Normal. The Heavy Duty mode runs for an extra cycle more than Normal. You can also change the water settings: High & Medium. (High = filled to the top, Medium = halfway filled.) There are also convenient places for you to put Bleach, Powder Detergent and Fabric softener so it automatically dispenses. Directions say to put regular detergent directly in the basket.\n\nA normal cycle will run about 25-30 minutes and while filling it is pretty loud. Once filled, depending on how much water you have designated it gets much more quiet. If you put the water level on Medium without a lot of clothing in it you will hear sloshing. The washer also shakes pretty hard when it hits the spin cycle and should be considered if you are putting this on tile/hardwood. I recommend putting a rug under it - the area we use it in is all carpet.\n\nI have read other reviews on this machine that people had to look for a special part or extender in order to attach the included faucet cap since you have to unscrew the one already attached to your faucet and screw on the one you receive in order to fit the tube onto your sink. Since we did not have this problem due to low-end fixtures so I have no comment on it but I'm just putting it out there just in case.\n\nOur clothes come out pretty dry and since we don't have the matching dryer we hang all of our clothes and most of them dry wrinkle free. I will say that my professional suit-style clothes will usually need ironed after being washed and then air-dried.\n\nOne complaint I have is that the fabric softener area in the agitator is very difficult to clean. You pop it out of the agitator (we had to pull very very hard) and you can only reach so far in there to get any fabric softener goop out. I don't recommend Downy for the softener since it's slimy and leaves a ton of residue. What you pop off in the agitator also holds the little lint trap which looks like a basket. This is even more difficult to pull apart so we wash the lint trap with it still attached to the fabric softener holder. It's easiest to clean when the lint is completely dry.\n\nI have had no musty smells from the washer in part because we leave the top open always. However, for the few months of usage there was a strong plastic smell from the drum. It didn't bother us and it eventually went away and the smell never stuck to our clothes.\n\nI can't imagine still going back and forth to the laundromat, I will say I miss being able to dry my clothes but all of our clothes are completely air-dried after hanging overnight so it's not that much of an inconvenience. Once we move into a place of our own I plan on keeping this washer for washing other things like rags and stuff you generally would want to keep separate from washing your regular clothes in.\n\nI love this little washer and would recommend this to anyone who would like an apartment size washer or hates their laundromat.\n\nOne thing I forgot to mention is that it comes with casters so you can move it around if necessary. I have no problems pushing it around on my low-pile carpet.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4789, "id": 466223, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 666, "len_tokens": 807, "text": "I love how quiet this dishwasher is!  This is the first dishwasher I have owned with a stainless steel tub and I can really tell the difference!  We replaced our Kenmore Ultrawash model that we purchased in 2007 because it was SO LOUD!  We could barely hear the television in the next room and my husband wouldn't let me run it at night because it was loud when we were sleeping so I had to run it during the day.  My review compares this new Bosch to the old Kenmore.\n\nAlso, we had quite a time with Best Buy.  We purchased the floor model so we saved a chunk of money.  However, they forgot to give us the installation kit so we had no instructions and no parts.  It should have been a 30 minute installation but after 3  hours, 2 trips to the hardware store, and one HUGE marital fight, we figured this out.  At that point it was already installed (and we weren't speaking!).  However, I discovered a week later that the dishwasher was leaking so I called Best Buy and told them my husband was on his way to get the installation kit.  They didn't ask me any information about what we purchased but said they could sell us something.  I told them we needed it for free.  My husband got to the store and needed the model number.  He couldn't get ahold of me, and for some reason they didn't/couldn't look it up in the computer, so he ended up going to Lowe's and spending another $30.  Due to this, I would never buy the floor model again - but if you do, be sure to get the install kit with delivery!!\n\nPros:\n*QUIET - yes, you can hear it, but it sounds like a soft rain.  We can watch television and have a conversation in the same room because it's so quiet.  That was my main criteria!  If it wasn't quiet, I was going to return it.\n*racks slide well - my Kenmore felt really cheap because of the ways the racks slid out but this Bosch is great - the bottom rack doesn't come off of the track\n*stays clean inside - having a stainless steel tub means that it doesn't stain like the old white tub.  I still try to add vinegar for most washes just to make sure\n*cleans fine - cleaning is not superb (at least for the general wash cycle) but it cleans just fine.  I tried the pots & pans setting last time but my husband emptied the dishwasher so I don't know if the dishes came out cleaner.  I still don't put in caked on dishes and definitely not dried cheese\n*makes dishes relatively dry - dishes are not perfectly dry when the cycle is done but they're good enough.  I usually open the door and let them finish air drying overnight\n\nCons:\n*Smaller capacity - this is likely due to the insulation but I will take this any day due to how quiet this machine is\n*Not the best configuration - I'm not really excited about the configuration in the racks.  It seems really close together and it's not easy to put glasses or pans on the bottom rack.\n*Dinging when it's done - this is annoying and loud.  I tried to figure out how to make it stop but I made it worse!  Instead of dinging 5 times - twice - it dinged 5 times for at least 5 times before I shut the dishwasher off.  However, I googled it last week and figured it out so no more dinging.  (The only bad thing now is I don't know when it's done so I just wait a couple of hours before I open it up to let the dishes finish drying.)\n\nOne other note: I read online today that the best way to clean stainless steel is with a little olive oil and a cotton cloth so I'll try that tonight.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4790, "id": 468586, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 680, "len_tokens": 866, "text": "I purchased this Frigidaire Professional 30\" gas range (FPGF3081KF) to replace my parents' aging GE stove which barely survived the Thanksgiving holiday.  We are a family of french cooks, including a professional executive chef with international cooking experience.  For us, a good quality stove is important in any household.  Prior to my purchase, I set my requirements based on the following criteria:\n\nStove Requirements:\n* 30-in width, free standing\n* Middle burner w/cast-iron griddle/grill\n* Gas burners\n* Convection oven\n* Warming or baking drawer\n* Stainless\n* Reliable brand for daily heavy use\n* Budget under $1400\n\nInitially, I was focusing on the GE Profile series.  A close friend owns a GE Profile with the specs listed above and paid around $1900 for his.  He has had it for 4 years and has been extremely pleased with it.  Although I really liked the look and capabilities of the GE Profile series, the model I wanted was out of my price range.  During a visit at my local BestBuy, I came across the Frigidaire Gallery and Professional series, and was impressed with the quality of the ranges.  I began my research and was impressed with many of the reviews.\n\nOver the Black Friday weekend, I found a GE Profile floor model at BestBuy for $1299, and this Frigidaire Professional, brand new, for $1053.  Comparing apples to apples, the GE Profile was not worth the extra $246, so I decided on the Frigidaire.\n\nReview - Positive Notes:\n(We have only had this stove for just over a week, but have used it heavily and have tested all of the features.  So far, this stove has passed every test with flying colors.)\n* The overall impression is that this is a heavy duty and professional quality stove.  Nothing feels cheap.\n* The continuous grates allows better control of the pots and pans on the stove-top, and seem to be of high quality.\n* The burners are very responsive and burn at a much higher intensity than our previous stove.\n* The burner knobs are made of metal (instead of plastic), which gives the stove that added level of professional quality.\n* The stainless steel finish is not a fingerprint magnet.  The black stove top hides dirt when cooking, and is easy to clean.\n* The PowerPlus burner drastically decreases the time it takes us to boil water.  The high intensity of this burner works very well with larger pots.\n* The customizable oven racks, including the slide-out feature of the bottom rack are really useful!  Having that bottom rack slide out about 6 inches towards you as you open the oven door really helps reduce the chance of getting burnt.\n* Warming drawer is an added bonus, and kept a roasted chicken well heated at the highest setting, without drying it out.\n* The center burner with w/cast-iron grill allowed us to cook skewered steak to perfection!\n* The oven and timer controls are easy to follow, once you've glanced at the manual.\n\nReview - Negative Notes:\n* When using the oven at high temperatures, some of the burner knobs tend to get really hot.  Although I did not burn myself figuring this out, it's worth noting for next time.\n* The oven temperature pre-sets buttons (Pizza, Nuggets) were less useful than I anticipated.  The Pizza button is preset at a temperature of 425 degrees, which is not high enough for pizza.  To properly cook a freshly-made pizza on a pizza stone, the oven needs to be set at 500 or higher.\n* As other users have indicated, the largest burner (17,000/500 BTU), does not have much mid-range.  It's either very intense, or very low.  I didn't see this necessarily as a negative, because we were able to adjust our cooking according to the stove's capabilities.\n\nOverall, I am very content with this purchase.  Not only did I stay below my budget, but I ended up with a professional grade stove which more than serves our purpose.  Let's just hope my positive feelings remain the same in a year from now!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4791, "id": 468684, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 645, "len_tokens": 849, "text": "The agitator on our 90's base-model Kenmore broke after about 12+ years of use. I couldn't justify the cost of replacing the parts to get it working again.  We exhausted our research and came across all of the bad reviews on the high-efficiency issues of washers on the market as of 2011.  People were complaining about less water, less clean clothes, less hot water, smell of mildew with front loaders, wash time, etc.  I made mind to find for the most inefficient top-load washer I could find to mirror what we had.  We were leaning on the top-loaders that filled 50% with water, but we were swayed by this Samsung when we saw an open-box unit selling for $620 at a big-box store.  The previous ownerreturned it because of a minor scratch.\n\nWe are delighted they returned it! We got a great performing machine and haven't experienced any of the reported issues most customer reviews scream about online.  Complainers resonate the loudest to you when it comes to a big-ticket item purchase.  We overlooked the naysayers and dived-in.  Not only did the open-box sale price push us into this 2011 top-of-line model. The allergy certification swayed us heavily because our 4yo has major allergies (mites, pets, etc).  The sanitizer option is fantastic!\n\nWhen compared to our base-model 90's washer, this thing is awesome!  It is super quiet during the wash cycle.  The only time we really hear it is during the spin cycle.  When you use the extreme spin-cycle setting it whines-up like a turbo engine, but it sounds cool to me.  I dig it!  When it's done, it makes a silly musical jingle...we no longer get the end-game buzzer sound.  The washer sounds so happy that it finished another load for us.\n\nOur clothes come out clean.  They smell fresh.  They're warm after the wash.  The water-temp naysayers should change their hot-water tank setting.  My wife's nursing uniforms no longer have lent-balls on them after a wash.  The dryer filter is getting less lent too.  We tossed half of the house into this thing the first week.  It got stains out of our white living-room pillows that we just couldn't remove with the other washer.  My son's bedding and other items were all sanitized.  The washes don't take too long.  Generally 40-60 mins under a heavy normal-wash load and 2 hours with the sanitize option.  We can get others things done while its underway - why are people complaining about the time of a washer?  Go watch a game while its on!\n\nWe leave the washer door cracked to air-dry.  Once a week I'll clean the rubber seal to prevent any mildew smell.  A little pro-active cleaning and maintenance goes a long way.\n\nWhen you use the sanitizer be careful of your kid's teddy-bears.  One furry little puppy teddy-bear hitched a ride on a load by mistake.  He came out looking like a bald Chihuahua.  We may need to comb it for a week to get the hair fluffy again!  Put your decorative pillows on delicates not sanitize - you might see some fraying from the seams.  Yes, I went overboard cleansing our linens after we bought it!\n\nIf you buy it from a big-box store, be sure to make observe and review the installers work.  Our installers stripped the plastic hot-water connection with a rushed job.\n\nIf you can find this unit as an open-box then leap on it.  I think you'll be VERY pleased with the deal and quality of cleaning you get you of this machine.  If you purchase one at full retail price you should still be pleased with the results.  Hopefully we won't experience any mechanical or computer issues in the future, but to date we're very pleased with our purchase.  Now if only I could park a car in this thing to clean where the kids sit...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4792, "id": 469314, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 704, "len_tokens": 887, "text": "This is my 2nd GE Profile double wall oven.  The previous one would have lasted longer but the appliance installer installed it incorrectly.  That had NOTHING to do with the manufacturer and is a rant that wouldn't be helpful here. Suffice it to say that if he took the trouble to do the job correctly, it'd still be working.\n\nI use one or both ovens nearly every day and the temperature setting is accurate and heating is relatively even inside the oven. The great advantage of a double-wall-oven is that if you're working on a large number of dishes, and they need different temperatures, you're not having to continually jockey dishes in and out of the oven, changing the temperature, switching to 'broil', etc. Life is much, much easier. Especially if you're doing Thanksgiving for a large group, as I do.\n\nThe top oven is convection-or-conventional, the bottom one is conventional-only. The controls are touch-panel on the top of the unit and are fairly intuitive (e.g. press 'Bake', then the number-panel for the temperature, then 'start'). There's a nice, big, easy-to-read display so I can see the temperature and timer from across the room. There are also lockout controls so you can set a numeric password and disable the controls if you have young children or special-needs family members who shouldn't be operating the ovens.\n\nGE has eliminated the pesky bottom heating element - it was a nuisance to clean round - and placed it underneath the oven floor. So the sides and bottom are unobstructed. That makes cleaning up large drips much easier.  The broiler element is still exposed underneath the oven 'ceiling', but that's pretty much the same case with all brands.\n\nThe ovens will automatically shut off after 12 hours - to avoid disasters from forgetful cooks. But there are instructions for overriding this.\n\nOn my old ovens, the lowest I could set the temperature was 170 degrees. The new ones have a 'Warm' setting that's great for keeping things like pizza-still-inside-the-cardboard-box warm without scorching. Its also got great possibilities as a dryer if you need a dehydrator for fruit, vegetables, etc.\n\nGE has made both ovens the same size, which really helps when you're shuffling racks around. On the older ones, the bottom oven was slightly larger than the top, so the racks were different-size.\n\nThere's a temperature-probe socket in the to oven (I recall you had to buy the temperature probe separately). I've never used it. It seemed prone to failure on the first GE Profile ovens I owned. I'd sooner go with a Taylor remote oven thermometer, which is inexpensive and foolproof. It will beep at you when your roast, etc. hits a specific, pre-set temperature.\n\nIf you install this appliance yourself (as I did with the new one), there are a very precise set of installation instructions, including enclosure dimension,  electrical connections, etc.  The only thing I had to customize was making a temporary wood platform at the same height as the enclosure so I could finish wiring and then slide the oven into the enclosure.  This is a really heavy appliance and having a 2nd set of hands available is a real plus.\n\nThe only criticisms/complaints I have about this appliance are 1.) When you've got the oven AND the kitchen timer going, and the timer starts beeping, if you set 'Clear/Off', it turns off the timer AND the oven. You have to press 'Kitchen Timer' and then '0' on the number panel to reset it to zero and effectively turn it off.  2.) The bottom self-clean door-latch went out after a year and a half and I had to replace the part. 3.) Self-Clean still leaves little bits of gunk around the edges of the doors and the front edge of each oven. The only way I've been able to clean this is with conventional oven cleaner.\n\nParts are ridiculously easy to locate for this oven. All you have to do is enter the model number in a web search engine and you can find an exploded parts diagram and numerous parts suppliers.\n\nOverall, if I had to buy a wall oven appliance again, I'd definitely go with GE Profile double wall oven", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4793, "id": 470093, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 692, "len_tokens": 843, "text": "I recently moved into an apartment with this dryer, and like many other reviewers, I found it was completely worthless.  According to the manual, this thing is actually designed to NOT completely dry clothes, since that supposedly damages them.  However,  I prefer my clothes to be mildew-free, so here's what I did to get this thing to properly dry my clothes:\n\n-Stop trying to clean the sensors with vinegar.  It's a complete waste of time--use the vinegar to clean your coffee maker or espresso machine instead.\n- Next, open the panel below and to the left of the door and remove the plastic drawer-looking thing  after twisting the two tabs on the corners.  You won't be needing this thing anymore, but place it on top of the dryer or someplace nearby so it doesn't get lost/discarded.  Someone else who wants their clothes to smell like mildew may want this at a later date....\n- Next, don't close that panel door if you want to do laundry.  Obviously, you can close it between loads, but you will always run the dryer with this panel open.  If your dryer is in a closet with a door, carefully make sure the closet door closes without slamming into the dryer panel door when it is open.  My unit is in a very small area and the closet door wouldn't close without hitting the panel door, so I cut a piece of string to a very specific length and then knotted it to make a loop so the panel door is open at about a 30 degree angle when looped around the panel latch and either of the metal pieces that make up the locking mechanism in the dryer door.  This may take some trial and error, and you can do it anyway you want, but the panel door absolutely needs to be open when you're doing laundry.  If you have a closet door, I'm just guessing you want that closet door to be closed, but obviously that is up to you.\n\n- Next, take out the lint screen, remove any lint, and wash it with hot water and shake it off to dry.  Even if it looks clean, it may not be, so rinse it with hot water.\n\n- This next step is optional, but I found it severely reduced the \"filter\" light warnings I was getting.  Turn the lint screen over and notice the screen mesh covers the hinged area in the base of it.  Take a razor blade and cut through the screen at the base (i.e., between the plastic along the hinged base).  This may not look like a big deal, but it will dramatically increase the airflow through the lint screen while still allowing the lint screen to function and collect lint.  Again, this part is optional (and it does permanently modify the lint screen), but I found it significantly reduced the number of times that the filter idiot light comes on.\n\n- For regular maintenance, I only wash the lint screen with hot water and shake it out to dry when the filter light comes on.  I think the mesh is so fine that it gets clogged by stuff that's hard to see, so don't trust your eyes.  When the filter light comes on, take out the lint screen, remove any lint, wash it off with hot water, and shake it to dry.  Also, I used to rinse off the metal condenser thing in the drawer behind the open panel, but I don't think that matters, so I don't even do that any more, but if you run into any problems, you may want to rinse that off as well.\n\n- Lastly, I always use the Regular/Cotton--Extra Dry setting, with the \"Low Heat\" push-button option selected.  Unfortunately, it can take an hour or more, but it always dries my clothes that way.  The clock is never right--it starts at 2:37 but then updates continuously and I'd say it takes about an hour or so,  I haven't tried a lot of the other settings, but they may work as well.\n\nHope this helps.  Feel free to add your experience/comments/thoughts/ tips below.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4794, "id": 470180, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 745, "len_tokens": 880, "text": "If you have found your way to this review, it is likely that you have already discovered there are few options available for homes that lack the full 36\" width needed to fit the wide variety of \"big boys\" available. So we landed upon this LG model as the best compromise of features and capacity to replace our 20 year old Kitchen Aid single door with bottom freezer (still working).  In the process, we also discovered that newer models are slightly taller, so do your homework and be prepared to do some woodworking!\n\nThe inside space arrangement is radically different from our old model, and requires some re-thinking of how you store things. At this point, I am wondering if we wouldn't be better off removing one of the shelves in order to accommodate more tall items.  The biggest difference is the lack of door storage when compared to the old one with the longer single door. The ice maker occupies much of the left door, so things that might have been grouped together in the old unit now must be separated.  The freezer space, on the other hand, is much improved over our old Kitchen Aid.  It is both larger and more convenient due to the pull-out drawer.\n\nPerformance-wise, the electronic settings and controls allow much more accurate adjustment than the older model. The alarm for \"door ajar\" is very handy when you have guests using it.  Based on experimentation, this thing freezes items much quicker- I used the freezer last night to chill down some cooked asparagus, which is something I would never have even thought to try on the old fridge. Air circulation in the refrigerator sector is very good, and the full length drawer for meats and cheeses does a good job of keeping things fresh. I do believe we will realize a small savings from being able to store items longer while maintaining freshness. The lighting inside is good, although not quite as \"pretty\" as some of its big brothers.\nThings I don't like?  OK, this is a pretty puny icemaker, so if you need a bunch you had better be emptying into a bin down below to stock up. The other issue I have noticed about it is it seems a bit inconsistent; almost fickle, about making ice, sometimes taking longer than other times to dump more out-haven't figured that one out yet; it may be related to the use of the cold water dispenser.  While on the subject of dispensing, other reviewers nailed it- it just about throws ice at you, but it only takes a few trials before you see how you need to hold the cup to catch it.  Same with the water dispenser- not very well thought out, but you will get used to it.  Another dislike is the way you access the icemaker from inside the door; the latch and the way it closes is not very smooth.  Lastly, as I mentioned earlier, the storage arrangement takes some getting used to; in particular where bulky and tall items are concerned.\n\nTo summarize, so far we are happy with the purchase, although it is a bit of a personal disappointment to actually have to pay more for the smaller unit than a comparable wide model.\n\n********UPDATE 11-2017*********\nWe just finished a month-long ordeal with a \"sealed system\" repair.  I had purchased a 36 month extended warranty under the theory that if it lasted that long it would go the distance; On month 37 I found out I made a bad bet.  The details are not as important as telling you that LG does not have the support network in place in the U.S. to be able to take care of their customers, and that it took multiple attempts, multiple trips, and multiple waits to finally, FINALLY, get it going again.  The \"smart\" features are not smart enough to let you know you have a freezer thawing out, and the fantastic alarm will tell you that the door is open but is in no way tied to threshold temps to warn you that things have gone awry.  When you take into account the cost of the goods you are storing, not to mention the inconveniences associated with \"camping\" while you wait for LG to send parts, only to wait again for service scheduling, it is just not worth it.  It's fairly common knowledge among the folks who service appliances as to which brands to avoid.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4795, "id": 471109, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 695, "len_tokens": 884, "text": "Wow.  What a piece of junk.  First off, when you pay $1800 for a range, it should work like an expensive Swiss watch.  When you put \"Made in the USA\" stickers on it, you're shaming our country's craftsmanship.....or maybe that was a warning.  Can you tell if it was built on a Friday?\n\nGot the stove in September.  By October, the \"safety\" shutoff valve that only operates with current began to buzz.  Its an electromagnetic plunger that will stop any gas feed to the burners if not powered.  If you lose power, you cant use the gas.  There is no override.  Every time it was engaged, it would sound like a set of barber shop clippers and loud.  I called Whirlpool and played them a recording of the sound, and the actual sound and they sent a tech who confirmed what I knew.  It made me nervous to use the oven because this is a gas line component.  The tech ordered the part, and proceeded to blow me off twice over the course of 4 weeks on replacement putting the repair AFTER Thanksgiving.  I was forced to take it into my control.  It took me all of 30 minutes to replace it, but I had to confirm the work would be warrantied since I had to DIY.  I'm not sure how they expect to sell the warranties they push if they're not going to provide service at all.  Tip:  Hire people that actually care about doing a good job.\n\nRecently, the right 16k BTU mid-range burner valve froze closed (I appreciate it didn't get stuck open).  I could tell the heat from the top oven was making something stick, but wouldnt you know that this happens a month out of the pitiful one year warranty they provide.  The valve itself is $80, which surprised me.  I guess I'll be on DIY duty for that too.  This one failed right before Xmas dinner within its first year of use.  If they start to get catchy, be ready to buy new ones.  Its a stamped/cast part that cant be cleaned.  Yay obsolescence and the throw away society!\n\nIt doesnt get heavy use.  Its me and the wife and we probably cook on it 3 times a week.\n\nThe final nail in its coffin was when I washed the stainless knobs (which are too heavy for the valve spring actuation to work properly).  Something in the back of the knob connection is water soluble because now none of the 5 knobs fit on the valve stems at all.  I'm looking to source for lighter knobs so that the spring has a fighting chance.\n\nCliffnotes:  Avoid KitchenAid (or Whirlpool for that matter).  They're made cheaply, they break easily and their service is awful.  What kicks me in the gut is that I bought it through the \"VIP\" program.  The one year warranty is a joke.  They will constantly call, write, and email you about their warranty program, which costs about $100 a year (go figure).  You'll need it if you buy one.  3 failures in the first year of use is unacceptable.\nThey kept asking me if I had used the self-clean feature and wouldn't say why they were asking.  I'm seriously afraid to that feature now.\n\nStainless?  More like Gillette thin razorblade construction with an appetite for fingerprints.  The thing is very hard to keep clean, and it can cut you good if you're not aware of the edges.\n\nAlso, if you don't have a in-wall 4 prong plug set exactly at the back indentation where the book shows, forget it.  There is no bottom cabinet room for any kind of mistake and will never sit flush agaist the wall.  That cost me another $120 in copper wire, an outlet, box, and an entire evening.  This aint like the ones that sit over top of the floor mount box you find in a lot of homes.\n\nWhat happened to the days with something like an oven could last 20 years without incident?  This stove is dangerous IMHO.  I would send it right back to them for a refund if they stood behind their products.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4796, "id": 471979, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 641, "len_tokens": 824, "text": "Do you like to have your clothing randomly stripped of color?  Do you like to waste water wantonly?  Well, then, this is the washer for you!  This particular model of top-loading Whirlpool washer offers the following benefits-- if you following the manufacturer's directions and add the laundry soap at the bottom of the machine (sparingly, natch!), then loosely arrange your full load on top reaching just above the center line of the washing basket, you can experience the sheer wonder of discovering your brand new clothes, sheets, your favorite sweaters and familiar unmentionables come out stripped of color wherever they touched your (natural, normally non-damaging) detergent or low-suds laundry soap!\n\nWould you prefer to keep your clothes undamaged and just wash them?  Do you like to play guessing games?  Well, you can do both of these things with your brand new Whirlpool washer!  Try the following difficult trick:  Add your laundry detergent after you've placed your clothes into the washing basket, but just before the washing cycle starts!  Should you miss adding the soap in the crucial 5.3 seconds after the basket fills partway with water but right before the clothes begin to agitate, prepare to experience cries of joy while watching your brand new soap and water in the basket drain out and refill, causing you to start the process over six, maybe seven times today!\n\nDo you like to run?  How about running sprints?  Enjoy brief periods of exercise throughout the day by trying to wash your clothes without either damaging them or wasting water!  Here's what you have to do to get the full benefit of the Whirlpool sprints-- a) Place your non-damaging soap in the bottom of the washing basket.  b)  Start the wash cycle, but do not add any clothes just yet.  c)  Plan to stand and wait three to twenty minutes as the basket fills with water.  d)  Get called away for a phone call, and forget about the running washer in the garage.  e)  Remember you are washing clothes just as the empty washer begins to agitate. f) Shout profanities into the phone while running as fast as you can down the hallway through the living room into the kitchen where you will fling the garage door open, careen around the corner to the washer and rip open the lid.  g) Toss the clothes into the sudsy water in the basket, and spend the rest of the afternoon burning calories by worrying whether your clothes went through a full wash cycle or not.\n\nI never knew I could be so entertained by one Whirlpool appliance, which we purchased brand new with a full warranty just last year!  Every item of clothing I own now features that distinctive Whirlpool color-stripped look, and the brand new 500-thread-count sheets that I carefully loaded into the machine last week look like they've been through the First and the Second World War in just one wash cycle!  As you can imagine, I am still crying tears of joy!\n\nCall me wild, but I just love to read appliance instructions six, seven, or eight times in both French and English.  By following Whirlpool's instructions, I've finally found the machine that will fulfill my dream of damaging any garment and household item that managed to survive our pre-Whirlpool washing days.  I'd go back to using a laundry mangle or an off-brand washer, but I don't believe I'd get nearly as much exercise as I do with our current Whirlpool model, and I've come to relish the \"antiqued\" look this nearly-new washer offers to even the sturdiest fabrics.  Plus, I've got calves to die for after all those afternoons sprinting back and forth to do the laundry.  I would never have imagined that one washing machine could have so many benefits, but by golly, Whirlpool has gone and done it.  Thanks, Whirlpool!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4797, "id": 481202, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 704, "len_tokens": 853, "text": "I recently moved from a condo that still had the 30-year-old dishwasher from when the place was originally built. It worked great. I ran it before going to bed, and when i woke up, the dishes were clean and dry. The amount of dishes that ever had stuck-on food was less than one percent. So I just bought a house and fast-forward need a new dishwasher. I figured technology has improved over thirty years, so the dishwashers they make now should be even better. I thought the better brands are GE, Kenmore, Maytag, and Whirlpool. I saw a GREAT price on this (WDF750SAYW) Whirlpool model and got it. Boy was I surprised. I've used it about five or six times so far, and I have had to re-wash about 85% of the dishes by hand. I have run the dishwasher in the evening/night, and when I unload it in the morning, the dishes are wet and dirty! I miss the 30-year-old dishwasher that I left in my old apartment!\n\nBuyer Beware: This dishwasher has a filter that lays across the bottom. What I realize is that any bits of food larger than a grain of sand will not pass through this filter and will splash around and get stuck on your dishes! So far, each time I have used the dishwasher, I ended up with dishes that were actually dirtier than when I put them in! The last load I did in this dishwasher, it couldn't even get yogurt off of a spoon!\n\nPROS:\n- very very quiet (although I did find the noise of the old dishwasher quite calming to go to sleep to)\n- energy efficient, supposedly uses less electricity than the average dishwasher\n- price point, this model costs less than a lot of other dishwashers\n\nCONS:\n- unless you have figured out the mystery of how to get this thing to clean your dishes, you have wasted your money\n- stupid silverware holder. It's supposed to hook on to the door, but you can put it in one of the racks instead. In any case, one side of it is solid instead of mesh, so water does not reach the silverware as effectively (this problem is made worse when you attach the rack against the door). Also, there are slots in which to place the handle of each piece of silverware. The slots are too small for most of my silverware.\n\nIn the old dishwasher, I just used Cascade gel alone with no rinse aid, no problem! The manual for this dishwasher says rinse aid is REQUIRED! Also, it says it's highly recommended to use the single-use powder packs instead of gel. So I experimented with cascade gel and cascade powder packs (with cascade rinse aid every time). I have not overloaded the dishwasher. So far the results have continued to be unsatisfactory.\n\nI just read a review on amazon of, I think it was the same model but with stainless steel front, that says try using Cascade Professional. I will try to find some of that and also play more with the settings... if I find a solution to the mystery of how to get this dishwasher to actually wash dishes, I will update!\n\nUPDATE 6/29/14\nI have had success with this dishwasher using the following settings: Sensor + HiTemp Wash - High Heat Dry + Sani Rinse (single-use powder pack plus rinse aid). When I forget to press Sani Rinse, the dishes still seem clean using the above. I wondered why Whirlpool would make leaving the dishes sanitary an option. It should be the default. On that note, evidently without using Sensor, the dishwasher will not think your dishes are dirty enough to wash them properly. I think it's foolish for Whirlpool to design the dishwasher so that the user must remember to select hot water. That should be default, too. Using \"normal\" for a load of normally soiled dishes should have worked, but instead it has resulted in a number of bad reviews of this model.\n\nI'm satisfied with the dishwasher now. However, I'm back on amazon to look for a normal silverware rack that has mesh on all sides for better water flow.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4798, "id": 482316, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 657, "len_tokens": 811, "text": "The \"Whirlpool Gold Series WDF730PAYM\" is designed to fit is standard 24\" built-in under-the-counter dishwasher opening and it fit into our opening rather nicely some adjustments were made.  The stainless steel unit is attractive, and relatively easy to use and operate and the features are nice especially the PowerScour (one of the reasons we chose this unit), which is designed to get stuck-on and or dried food off casserole dishes; and the delayed time start (another reason we chose this unit).\n\nAnother reason we choose this unit was the attractive design.  We liked having the controls on the front of the door and not the top where most manufactures seem to be placing them.  We found this to be inconvenient, especially if you want to make (control) changes without having to open the door to get to the controls.\n\nFor a little more green we could have opted for the stainless steel tub, but then the controls switched to the top of the door.  We wanted the controls on the front, so...The Whirlpool Gold Series WDF730PAYM is Energy-Star compliant.\n\nUse\n\nWe ran the first load of dishes through the Whirlpool Gold Series WDF730PAYM and not unlike our other Whirlpool unit, I was struck by quiet this dishwasher is.  The lone exception is loud bang approximately 5 minutes into the wash cycle. I have yet to figure out what that is!  The unit has 6 wash cycles; in normal use I usually chose Normal; however if I include pots and pans I will choose the Adaptive Mode. Each cycle completes in about 2 hours and I noted that the wash cycle turned off and on several times during the operation.\n\nEach control on the Whirlpool Gold Series WDF730PAYM has a small blue LED to denote its selection and when the dishes are washed and dried another blue LED illuminates next to a \"clean\" button.  The control panel is dark grey with white lettering, which makes the various controls easy to read, and like I stated above, the control panel was another reason we choose this unit.\n\nAs expected loads come out clean and debris free!  There was a little water left on the top of the coffee cups (they are flipped upside down), but that is to be expected.  At least the water was clean and not swimming with small food particles!  Also noteworthy: our glasses actually look clean and spec free as they were meant to be.\n\nThe Whirlpool Gold Series WDF730PAYM has about the same room as our other Whirlpool unit our old unit, but it is slightly more flexible in that some of the rack rows are adjustable and fold completely down in order to accommodate pots, pans, and other large objects.  There is also a stemware holder on either side of the upper rack; nice touch; and clips that could hold more lightweight objects in place for washing.\n\nI like that the silverware rack/holder is on the door and can accommodate large utensils with ease.  No more trying to find a place for them on the upper rack!  And I like that the utensil rack/holder is removable and can be placed anywhere in the lower rack, including the front, which is where we usually place it.\n\nClosing Thoughts\n\nOverall we are very pleased with the \"Whirlpool Gold Series WDF730PAYM.\"  The dishwasher does what a dishwasher is supposed to do: get my dishes clean.  Another cool feature is the delayed wash timer that allows us to load the dishwasher and delay the wash until early in the morning when the electric rates are lower and we are asleep.\n\nOne complaint: the upper rack seems a little flimsy; when pulled out all the way it appears as though it is about to break loose.  Perhaps this is due to the adjustable nature of the rack.  Our other Whirlpool units' upper rack did the same thing, but as of yet the rack has not broken, so...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4799, "id": 483634, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 710, "len_tokens": 899, "text": "Hold that thought for a moment...\n\nMr Stefan was too kind with his 2-star rating, considering his year long experience! It gets one star from me only because I couldn't give it the -5- star rating it deserves. The earlier review only tells half the story. So here's the other half:\n\n1. Inside of the first week, the glass top was chipped in two places. It's been a year so you should see it now! Plus all the scratches, stains and burn marks. I probably should have prefaced my review by stating that I'm a charter member of the \"I-HATE-TO-COOK-CLUB\" and I make an earnest effort to avoid the kitchen as much as possible so I don't ever put my hard-earned lifetime membership at risk. That said, this appliance only receives light use at most.\n\n2. Apparently, I wasn't as dazzled as my husband apparently was by all the fancy buttons, bells and whistles, all neatly hidden behind an inaccessible panel, any of which could fail when you need them the most. Sure enough, a month later, the \"0\" on the number pad stopped working. Not too bad...setting the cook time at 399 degrees when the temp needed to be 400 was but another annoyance to be added to the growing list. But a couple of months later, the 9 stopped working. Then the 8. Try baking a pizza at either 377 or 411 and see what you get!\n\n3. As for the list of other annoyances, here are a few that began on day one. The settings interface is counter intuitive. The oven is confusing to set. I shouldn't have to guess whether I set the time first, then Bake, then hit a start button too. Or first hit bake, then time, then start..it's an oven, for goodness sakes. Turning it on shouldn't be a game of chance. Same with the burners-- hit 3-4 buttons just to turn it on? I shouldn't have to slog through a support website to access the user manual just to figure out how to set the clock. The cooktop is hard to keep clean because of a recessed inside groove, (presumably a \"feature\" to catch boil overs of liquid) lined with some kind of rubbery surface that takes a jack-hammer to clean out. Honestly guys...it's a SMOOTH cooktop for a reason. The oven never reached the setting when the READY sound beeped. To test, I put the food in immediately, then could reset the temp 25 degrees lower and the indicator showed the temp below the reduced setting and didn't beep ready for another 3 minutes. The small rear burner never got hot enough to boil water. Within 6 months, 2 others weren't much better. There's more, but I'm exhausted just listing it all!\n\nBut, I saved the best til last. Chefs, man your fire extinguishers. Kitchen helpers grab your phones in case you have to call 911! We are about to self-clean this puppy. Lock, set and walk away. Easy enough. At the end of the cycle I expected to find a nice, neat little pile of ashes on the oven floor to wipe up with a damp cloth as I had done with all my prior ovens. But what did I find? A crusty layer of black soot splattered on the walls and CEMENTED to the floor. Took me over an hour to remove most of it. A couple hours later, when I set the oven to preheat ( 377 degrees, of course) I left the kitchen to take out the trash and returned to the chorus of ALL my smoke detectors and an oven streaming smoke. When I opened the oven, noxious fumes drove me outside for a gulp of air! The house was filled with smoke. Ok. First time use, but it happened 2 more times! My husband threatened to go out and buy ANOTHER range by himself if I didn't pick one out TODAY.\n\nFrigidaire, a legacy American company with a proud history, should be ashamed of itself. As a corporate  tradition, it is now a public embarrassment to this nation! Do not patronize any company that has no respect for itself or its customers. They do not deserve your hard-earned dollars. Run away as fast as you can!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4800, "id": 483960, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 745, "len_tokens": 891, "text": "I'll first justify my rating here, before giving a detailed account of our ordeal.\n- One star removed for GE being a company that treats its customers badly\n- One star removed for Induction Range not being widely used in the US. (See ramifications below.)\n- Two stars removed for this being a relatively higher end model of GE Induction Range. (Again, see ramifications below.)\n\nThe following is a simplified outline of events. Most phone calls were not fruitful and therefore not mentioned here.\n\nWe bought this range in early Nov. 2013, and it was delivered in late Nov. It broke down in less than a month. In the sense that it was totally dead. When we contacted the seller for returns, we were told that happy for us, the range was covered by GE's warranty. In other words, we couldn't.\n\nWe contacted GE for repairs. The first time slot a repair person was available was in three days. When the repairman came, he read the code on the range, and went to his van to check. Eventually he came back with bad news: not only he didn't have the part needed, it was on back order until January. He said that we'd be offered a replacement unit. But we had to call their 800 number ourselves.\n\nIt took another day for GE to \"research\" the case, in which time they verified that the part needed for repair was indeed not available, and the back order would be filled no earlier than mid-January. They offered us a replacement unit with a different model number. While on the phone, we did a quick research, and found that the replacement model was not available on Amazon, and on GE's website it was listed for $700 less than the model we bought. We asked for compensation of the price difference, and were told by the agent that day (Kaitlin) that she could only arrange for the replacement, and we had to wait until the agent whom dealt with our case first (Angela) to discuss monetary compensation. Considering that without the replacement we were set to go through the Christmas season without a working range, we agreed to have the replacement.\n\nThe replacement came in less than a week (i.e., we were without a range for more than 10 days total) and worked fine since then. We liked the fact that it heats very quickly. We didn't like the fact that we had to replace all our cookware, but are resigned to it.\n\nBecause the price we paid on Amazon Marketplace was less than the list price on GE's website, we also tried to find the unit on the Internet. It was available for about $700 less than what we paid for this unit.\n\nIn January, 2014, when we were in contact with Angela, she told us that GE guideline was that a replacement unit only has to be functionally equivalent; no monetary compensation was given. When we protested, she (yes, Angela herself) reviewed the case and found it totally satisfactory. She even sent us a letter to that effect.\n\nIn February, we complained through NYS AG's office. A different woman, Kelly J------, took the case. After some days of research, she came up with an offer of $200, plus a one-year extended warranty. I did not think the offer fair, and rejected it.\n\nIn March, we complained through BBB Kentucky. Again, Kelly J------ got the case, and replied that she made the offer of $200 plus one year extended warranty, which I rejected.\n\nSo now let me briefly explain my rationale for the rating:\n- GE treated us badly. You could judge that from the fact above. I do not have experience with other brands because of the no-return policy, but I couldn't imagine another company treating their customers worse than this.\n- Induction Range might be more troublesome to repair than other ranges, due to its unpopularity. The repairman came with a van full of parts and tools, and yet the parts needed to repair our range was not on it. Or anywhere in this country, for that matter. My guess is that the van did contain parts for repairing other, more popular, types of ranges.\n- Lastly, if you had to get a GE appliance of any kind, get the cheapest one you could find! Our experience suggests that for economic reasons GE would only provide replacement units of like functionality but of the cheapest price.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4801, "id": 484400, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 696, "len_tokens": 822, "text": "UPDATE: The top drawer has failed. Fisher Paykel is being difficult to deal with. The unit has a 2 year warranty. The top draw failed within the 2 year period. However at first we thought it was just a blocked line. Made sure that it was clear, called FP and tried some other things with them on the phone. Nothing worked. So they said to find a local repair shop that would be willing to work on it.\n\nWe live in a small rural town and no one would work on it. So after a few days calling around, I called back to FP and they said they would find someone and call me back. But that was over a week ago and they never did. Today I call and I'm told I'm out of warranty (by 16 days). But in fact the unit was ordered 2 years and 16 days ago, but due to shipping and the time it takes to get a tech to install it, we are w/in the warranty period. Also the unit started this failing to drain or slow draining over a month ago with is well w/in the 2 year warranty. But FP has essentially said tough and they are not going to honor the warranty.\n\nOriginal review:\n\nOkay I really fell in love with this dishwasher based on it's design. However there are some caveats with it.\n\nFirst we love the two separate drawers and it's very quiet. Having two chambers means we'll never have 2 day old stuff in the dishwasher or dishes on the counter or sink waiting for the dishwasher to be empty. These are the reasons we bought it.\n\nHowever, where it falls down is cleaning. If all you ever clean is plates, stemware and cups like they show in the pictures, it's great. However if you have pitchers, mixing bowls, bakeware, or something like a blender, it's really a challenge to get them into the drawer and still be able to get the other items clean. It only has one spinning arm at the bottom. Nothing else. This means if you put your bowls, pitchers or bakeware in there, it's pretty much all you can clean because there is no way the water can get to the 2nd tier.\n\nI like the adjustable side tiers, however they do not stick out far enough. And I don't really care for the angled floor rack.\n\nI love the utensils basket with the closing lid, but it's small and does not hold very many items. (They do give you two, one for the top drawer and one for the bottom drawer.\n\nI love the screen on the bottom, however it's very difficult to get out and kinda yucky to do it. You have to pull the utensil tray, and then this little floor piece has to come out, and the you have to wiggle around the strainer/filter to get it out. Not at all well designed.\n\nI love the controls on the door, however the childlock is not very effective. Too easy for the child to figure out and a bit of a pain for the parents. I would prefer some sort of code or something instead of just holding the button down.\n\nLove the detergent dispenser. You use about 1/4 as much detergent as you do (per drawer) in a normal dishwasher.\n\nThe bottom rack is really hard to get out. Of course that is a rare situation, but it's a pain if you have to.\n\nAlso we bought the tall model, but there is still a 1.5\" gap at the top. The installer said they'd have to get some wood trim to match our cabinets to cover it. The one we took out was a generic big box $400 special and it fit the space perfectly. I don't understand why this one does not.\n\nLike I said, if all you wash in the washer is plates, cups and stemware, it'll be great. And once you get used to running a drawer with just 3 or 4 items it works well. But it really does take time to get used to the new loading methods.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4802, "id": 488892, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 673, "len_tokens": 858, "text": "We purchased this range because it had all the features we wanted.  High power burner, large oven, 5 burners and more.  What we got was and is a nightmare.  After about a month, the LED display(which controls everything except the burners) goes blank.  We called Customer Service (CS) and they informed us to \"just reset the breaker\".  Which we did, and the display came back.  We were happy until it happened again about 2 weeks later.  We did the reset, but again it happened again not much later on.  We called CS back and they told us that this range had to have it's own circuit breaker and it had to be a time delay.  This is a must.  Yet it does not say that in the installation manual.  It does recommend it but does not require it.  We inquired about a time delay breaker, and were informed by Square D that their breakers are time delay.  So we took the time to wire in an electrical 120v outlet just for this range.  We figured we were now good.  NOPE, a few weeks later the LED went out again.  So much for CS advise.  We called again to CS and were told that there was nothing more they could do.  Yes we had the range for 4 months and under warranty and this CS rep tells us they will do nothing to help us.  WE reset the breaker again and again and again over the next couple of months.  Then again call CS, and again they tell us there is nothing they can do.  We lose count as to how many times we reset this breaker.  Finally in Jan, being totally irate, we call CS again and find a rep that tells us she will call a local authorized service center and they will come out to fix it.  A repair man comes out, tells us we have a bad circuit board and orders a new one.  A week later, the board comes in and installed.  The next day we notice the oven light is not working.  I replace the bulb but that does not help.  Light will not work.  Call local factory rep.  He comes out looks at it and calls KitchenAid.  They tell him that it must be a bad board.  He orders a new one and when it comes he installs it.  Problem does not go away.  So a third board is ordered over night and it is installed.  All is well.  This was last Friday.  Today 6 days later.  The center burner will not light.  Igniter works but it will not light.  Waited for 15 sec. but no gas coming.  2 hours later I try it again, and it works.  4 hours later, it stops working.  Called local authorized repair guy back to come and fix it.  He will be here tomorrow.  Also called KitchenAid CS.  told them with all the issues we had and all the calls we had made to them in the past 7 months, that we want a replacement range.  They said that the problems are fixable so their is nothing they can do.  Also they tell us that they are not aware of what we are talking about when it comes to all the calls we made.  They have no records of our calling them before except once.  We asked about the 7 to 8 calls we made previous to this one.  And they tell us they have no record of that.  The factory authorized repair people told us we have a lemon, but it is up to KitchenAid to replace it.  KitchenAid told us that we had to go back to the store that sold it to us, and that is not KitchenAid's problem.  I told them that the store we bought it from didn't make the product, you did, and it is defective.  We are still arguing with them.. Please save yourself  tons of headaches and stay away from KitchenAid ranges.  And remember, KitchenAid  Maytag, Fridgitaire, Amana are all Whirlpool subdivisions.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4803, "id": 493275, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 673, "len_tokens": 819, "text": "I absolutely LOVE this Panda Washing machine.  3 years later and its still going strong, a little\nworkhorse that never disappoints.  I wanted to maximize and prolong its life, so watched several youtube videos for any pointers.  I read in the manual NOT to run water through the spinner when its spinning, but I saw the inlet hose and was confused, so I called Panda, who told me if water is placed into the spin section, it can seep into the motor and it will no longer run, and that it was a product flaw thats damaged many units.  PLEASE DO NOT RUN WATER THROUGH THE SPINNER, or do so at your own risk.  Here are some tips Ive used if this can help anyone.\n\n1)  Even though it has a strong pump, I decided to drain the water into a 5 lb bucket I keep on the floor next to the washer, then manually dump it into the sink.  When I first tried the washer, I extended the drain hose to the sink, but found it struggled when draining the last of the water.  I don't feel its much of an inconvenience to take the extra step of using the bucket if it puts less pressure on the pump and extends its life.  I added a picture below.  Also, I attached the drain hose to the bucket with a strap so it doesnt go flying off  I learned the hard way when I got water all over the floor because I didn't initially secure it.  I cut 2 holes in the top of the bucket to hold a small strap that holds the hose in place. It was not hard at all to cut through the bucket with an exacto-knife.\n\n2)  The inlet hose did not fit my kitchen faucet, so I am using a large soup pot that actually works better for me.  I immediately start filling the pot while I am setting up my washer, separating my loads, etc, so by the time Im ready to start my wash, the pot is full.  Also, I am able to re-fill the pot for the rinse cycle and have it ready to go while the wash is going, so I wasn't too disappointed that the hose didn't fit my faucet.\n\n3)  I find 9 minutes for a wash is sufficient.  After the wash, I place  the load into the spinner to spin out most of the soap, while I drain the wash bin, then repeat with the 2nd  and the laundry.  I don't drain the rinse water since I feel its still fairly clean and use it for my next load and repeat the process.  I only drain the dirty soapy water after each wash.\n\n4) I agree with everyone else that the lint catcher is useless.  I bought a floating lint catcher for $1.99 at the dollar store.  Its in the photo below if that can help anyone.  I couldn't believe how much lint it catches!\n\n5)  Out of curiosity, I took the plastic backing off the unit to see the inside (when it was unplugged of course).  The drain hose is secured in place with a strong hardened silicone gel that was impressive.  I checked for leaks and there were none.  Not too crazy about the actual hoses themselves  they are thin and flimsy, but theyve lasted 3 years so far with no issues after constant use.\n\nI can quickly wash a load of clothes.  The wash takes 9 minutes, then I spin the clothes to get the soap out for not very long, approx. 1-2 minutes, then return it to the washing bin with fresh rinse water for 3-4 minutes, then finally back to the spinner for 2 minutes max.  I find 2 minutes is enough to leave the clothes 80% dry, unless of course, you have jeans or thick sweaters, although I have never found the need to spin the full 5 minutes.  I absolutely love it and recommend it and hope this review can help others.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4804, "id": 495272, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 664, "len_tokens": 852, "text": "BUYER BEWARE!\n\nI purchased this product. It arrived BROKEN (as well as the Sonya dryer, which ALSO ARRIVED BROKEN).\n\nI have phoned the toll-free number and received the sweet and sincere-sounding outgoing message requesting the caller to leave a message and someone will return the call.  No ... no one EVER returned my calls.\n\n\"Sonya\" and I have exchanged MANY emails through Amazon, and the Company simply apologizes profusely but does not address the problem of the broken products ... except to say \"return them.\"\n\nI kept the shipping in case I would need it, so I was prepared to return both products, BUT each crate requires professional (plastic?) strapping to hold the top of the box to the bottom (more like a platform) of the box.\n\nI have no way to STRAP the shipping cartons together, and I have no way to transport the machines and shipping crates to a professional shipper.  Sadly, the expense to professionally strap the cartons falls to ME and is not covered by \"Sonya.\"  Additionally, I based on my experience I do not trust this seller any farther than I can throw it -- How do I know they will ACTUALLY refund my $750?\n\nAlso, I have found ZERO \"authorized\" repair persons ... in the entire United States. The authorized repair persons are in CANADA, not in the U.S.\n\nBOTTOM LINE: \"Sonya\" has taken $750 of my money, provided me with two broken machines, will not return my phone calls, has no authorized repair persons so I can maintain their warranty (rendering the warranty USELESS if you live in the USA), and I am unable to ship the machines BACK to \"Sonya\" because to do so I would have to HIRE a trucker to transport the machines/cartons to a professional shipper PLUS PAY for each carton to be STRAPPED together (the top strapped to the bottom \"platform\").\n\nRETURN SHIPPING NOTE: The seller CLAIMS that it will pay for the \"postage\" expense to return faulty merchandise, but what they DO NOT TELL YOU is that the BUYER PAYS for transporting and re-packaging (strapping) the faulty merchandise ... which is VERY espensive.\n\nThe Amazon problem-solvers \"can only say that the Company is willing to refund your expense if you will kindly return the merchandise.\"\n\nI contacted my attorney about being RIPPED-OFF by an international company. His response? Legal attempts to recover my financial loss will cost me MUCH MORE than what I paid for the merchandise.\n\nMY ADVICE BASED ON MY EXPERIENCE IS THIS:\n - DO NOT PURCHASE FROM SONYA.\n - THERE ARE NO AUTHORIZED SERVICE REPS IN THE USA SO IF YOU CAN FIND SOMEONE (UNAUTHORIZED IN THE US) TO REPAIR THE PRODUCT, THE WARRANTY IS INVALIDATED.\n - IF YOU GET BROKEN MACHINES, YOU MUST PAY TRANSPORT AND PROFESSIONAL STRAPPING IN ORDER TO SEND THE MACHINES BACK.\n - SONYA's EMAILS DO NOT ADDRESS MY QUESTIONS OR PROBLEMS, THEY GUSH WITH SO-SORRYs AND RECOMMENDATIONS BUT THAT'S IT.\n - The seller is not in the United States and is not a U.S. company, so taking INTERNATIONAL legal action to recover your purchase price and shipping is likely to cost several times what you have already lost, AND your chances of successful INTERNATIONAL recovery of your funds is practically ZERO.\n\nGOOD LUCK TO HAPPY BUYERS:\n\nI have read the positive reviews of these products, and made my purchase based upon them.  Apparently, there are buyers who received merchandise in working order, and good for them ... but ... when the machine breaks, I wish them luck in finding an appliance repair person who is either \"Sonya authorized\" or even not \"authorized\" but willing to attempt repair.\n\nI have contacted several major appliance repair service companies in my area and each refused to attempt repair because the internal workings of the machines (Sonya washer and Sonya dryer) are not standard in the U.S. and for that reason the repair service reps have no experience or knowledge of \"where to even begin.\"", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4805, "id": 495777, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 688, "len_tokens": 848, "text": "I've owned this range for about a year now.  I was nervous about the purchasing decision because of the scant and often negative reviews on this range.  After a year of use I'm still thrilled with it.\n\nIn person, the range is great looking and seems solidly built.  Nothing about it feels flimsy to me.  Of course it's gorgeous.\n\nSize wise, this range is not as deep as other high end options.  For me, that's great because it fits nicely into our smaller kitchen, and doesn't jut out from our countertops like a larger range would.  The oven size has been fine for me, though I don't cook a lot of turkeys or larger items.  I do have one baking sheet that I have to rotate 90 degrees to fit in the oven, as the oven is not deep enough to accommodate it length wise.\n\nI saw lots of complaints about the oven, especially temperature consistency and uneven baking.  I've been quite happy with it.  First, you _need_ to get a good oven thermometer.  I grabbed a good magnetic one and stuck it to the side of the oven wall.  There is no electronic thermostat on this, not even a light that goes out when the oven is at temp, so you will not have any way of knowing when the oven is at temp unless you have a thermometer.  I suspect that a lot of folks' complaints are because they put things in early, when the oven wasn't at temp.  I usually bake anything delicate on the middle/top rack, if you bake on the very bottom rack things can get over done on the bottom, but I think that's par for the course especially with gas.  The convection setting is great.\n\nThe burners are awesome.  The controls are very precise.  It's easy to dial in the right amount of heat.  The large double burner puts out plenty of heat.  I use it often with a round bottom wok and it's perfect for that.  I don't use the double burner as much as I thought I would.  When cranked all the way up the flames are pretty wide, and they come out beyond the sides of all but my largest stock pot.  I find the second largest burner is the best for medium sized pots and pans, if high heat is necessary.  The beautiful brass burner and \"button\" will tarnish over time.  I've not tried using brass cleaner on them yet.  I suspect that would bring back their original shine. It seems to be mostly soot that's accumulated over time.\n\nAs some others have mentioned, when the oven is running a fan kicks on and blows warm air out the front of the stove.  This doesn't bother me, in fact my wife loves standing in front of the oven when it's cool out.  It's never gotten hot to the touch (on the front).  There is a vent in the back of the range though that gets quite hot when the oven is running.  Not a real issue for me, but something to be aware of.\n\nI really appreciate the simplicity of this range.  The thermocouples on the burners are a great feature.  It's only happened a couple of times, but when a burner went out and I didn't notice, I've never smelled gas.  It shuts off the gas flow very quickly.  Plus the whole range top will operate safely without electricity.\n\nOverall, I'm super happy with it.  I'd definitely purchase it again if I had to make the decision over.  I would caution anyone buying it for the looks to consider other options as well.  This range offers a lot of control and precision, but it also takes a bit more attention to detail while you're cooking than other options out there.  Depending on how you like to cook, you may be much happier with something that has digital temp control, self cleaning, timers, etc.  Despite it's good looks, and hefty price tag, this is really a no-frills piece of kitchen equipment and could feel like a step down if you're used to those bells and whistles.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4806, "id": 500793, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 687, "len_tokens": 873, "text": "About 10 months ago, the original icemaker stopped working in my ~15 year old Kenmore refridgerator.  The icemaker was labeled Kenmore p/n WR30X0307.  I typed in p/n WR30X0307 on Amazon and found it available for $84.25 from North American HVAC.  I ordered it and received it a few days later.  The part number on the paperwork was p/n WR30X10093.  I researched it on the internet and found that Kenmore had replaced p/n WR30X0307 with WR30X10093.  I didn't think much of it since the icemaker seemed like it would fit / work, and it did install and (somewhat) function.  At the time, I thought I had received an equivalent Kenmore part.\nThe icemaker never quite worked like the original one:\n- The ice cubes were sometimes ejected before completely frozen, and cracked open / were hollow after landing in the ice tray\n- When the water valve was triggered by the icemaker to fill the ice cube tray, my water valve occasionally made a sputtering sound like it was being cycled on / off several times during the file process\n- Eventually the intermittent water valve triggering stopped, and the water value was triggered for a longer.  The ice cubes were larger (more water = larger ice cubes) which was nice, but sometimes the  ice cube tray was overfilled, causing water to drip into the ice cube tray and freeze.\n- Overfilling the ice cube tray gradually got worse, and was so bad that the bottom of the ice tray was a sheet of ice.  The last straw was the overfilling was so bad, all newly formed ice cubes quickly from to the bottom of the ice tray and water was even running out of the ice tray and dripping down the side of my freezer before it froze.\n\nSo, it was time to replace this sketchy ice cube maker in less than one years time.  I went back to Amazon to find another and was reading some reviews that some replacement icemakers were not original equipment manufacturer (OEM).  It turns out that some companies are producing a form / fit / functional product under the same part number.  I went back and looked at the icemaker purchased from North American HVAC, and there is no Kenmore label on it.  In fact, there is no product label on it at all.  And then I realized even though the icemaker says By Kenmore on Amazon, it was not actually by Kenmore and was some equivalent counterfeit part made by another company.\n\nAt that point, I was done with trying to find this on Amazon from distributors and went to Sears.  I was able to find p/n WR30X10093 on the Sears website.  It was even in stock at a Sears near my home.  I went to pick it up, and while it cost a bit more, $143, I am much more comfortable purchasing an OEM product if it costs 50% more.  Oh, and this one does have the Kenmore label on it.  After installation, there is no sketchy performance either and after a couple days the performance is the same as my original WR30X0307.\n\nMy complaints are the following:\n1) The part received from North American HVAC doesnt have a product label showing the true manufacturer.\n2) North American HVAC should not show this product as By Kenmore on Amazon.  This part looks different than the Kenmore part I received at Sears.  There is no screw to adjust to the ice cube size and there is an on / off switch on the Kenmore part I received.  The product shown by North American HVAC on Amazon is not a genuine Kenmore part.  This is a deceptive business practice.\n3) You should not claim to be selling one p/n (WR30X0307) and ship another (WR30X10093).  This should be clear at the time of purchase and not up to the buyer to figure out on their own.\n4) The counterfeit part sold has poor performance in my case.\n\nIt is disturbing that counterfeit icemakers are being manufactured (and distributed) using the OEM part number.  This is a fraudulent and deceptive practice.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4807, "id": 501283, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 694, "len_tokens": 831, "text": "We purchased this refrigerator in February 2015 (after out 5 year old Samsung died), without being able to find very much information on the product or a comparison with the similar DCS refrigerator made by Fisher & Paykel's sister company.  On the exterior, the DCS handles are thicker, more robust looking and come in a choice of rounded or squared design.  The F& P handles are thinner and square - they are very easy to clean because, unlike Samsung refrigerators, the handles are not curved, creating tight spaces.  The exterior panels of both the F& P and the DCS are a smudge-free stainless that cleans very easily with soap and water - unlike our previous Samsung or our Bosch appliances.\n\nWe love the layout! The F&P refrigerator has two glass shelves which slide out very easily for cleaning.  There are 14 slots for positioning the shelves, making the interior highly customizable.  Unlike most brands on the market, the shelves are one solid piece - so the entire shelf is usable and there is no risk of something falling over and spilling between the shelves. The two fruit and vegetable bins and the two chiller bins, fully remove from the refrigerator for food prep and cleaning, as does the plastic shelf that these bins sit in.  The bins are dishwasher safe.  Strangely, the water filter sits OUTSIDE the refrigerator (the DCS model has an interior water filter), so we were able to set it up in the basement and feed the line up through the floor.  If you don't put the filter in the basement, you will need a spot to hang or sit the filter next to the refrigerator.  The external water filter increases usable space in the refrigerator and makes for easy filter changing.\n\nTalking about water, both the F & P and the DCS models have water available in the exterior of the right refrigerator door.  Unlike all other refrigerator brands, the water is not recessed, making filling any size container or glass very easy.  We routinely fill an electric kettle, Kuerig water tank, pitchers and glasses straight from the door without any issues - unlike our old Samsung which could only take certain sized glasses.\n\nThe F & P and the DCS freezers are similar in layout: a top sliding shelf with three clear, removable bins and an open bottom drawer.  The bins can be completely removed to allow trays to be stored.  The bins are dishwasher-safe.  If the ice bin is removed, the ice-maker will not function until the bin is replaced. The ice-maker is extremely slow compared with our previous refrigerators; it took several days to fill the ice bin.  If additional ice is required, one of the larger bins can be placed under the ice-maker, which is a nice feature.  A small ice scoop is included with the ice bucket and, despite its size and shape, works very well for scoping enough ice for a glass (for larger amounts, the entire bin full of ice can be removed).\n\nThe F&P model has an up-down push button temperature change system on the interior right wall.  Unfortunately, there is no way to set a specific temperature, unlike the digital DCS model (which allows temperature changes using an exterior panel) or our old Samsung. We would have liked to be able to set a specific temperature instead of having to guess and make incremental changes over a period of days.\n\nThe reason this refrigerator gets four stars is simply because the F & P is extremely noisy.  There are frequent loud popping, cracking sounds emanating from the refrigerator as the components expand and contract.  This is the noisiest appliance we have ever owned and, 11 months later, we are still bothered by the noises.  Unfortunately, we have no idea whether the DCS would have been made of superior materials, resulting in less noise - but if it is, the $500 higher pricetag would have been worth it.\n\nOverall, the manufacturer really thought out the design of this refrigerator and we highly recommend it - but take a look at the DCS model if it is available before making a decision.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4808, "id": 507855, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 704, "len_tokens": 873, "text": "I did tons of research on dishwashers before we made a purchase. Prior to this purchase we had had a GE nautilus portable dishwasher for 7 years or so and gave it recently to our oldest son for their apartment.  One thing we hated about that one was that it redeposited food quite regularly if dishes weren't fairly clean beforehand.  For literally 2 months or so, i researched dishwashers, everything from the cheapest ones, to the most expensive ones!  Options, no options, etc etc.  We finally decided to purchase this one because of all of the options; hard food disposal AND a self-cleaning filter, TONS of jets including 4 \"bottle\" jets which are just amazing. No more will you have tall glasses/bottles that aren't clean!  It has jets above the silverware holder that constantly dump water over the silverware.  Stainless tub will/should last a lifetime. No visible heating element, so you can put plastic on the bottom. It does have heated dry though, it's a hidden element with a fan.  Quiet, can we say quiet!?!  I didn't know dishwashers could be this quiet. Honestly if there is any conversation in the kitchen while it's running, or any fan running, then you absolutely cannot hear it!  The bottle jets are honestly the loudest part but they don't spray very long unless you select that option.  It has a leak pan/detector and if it detects a leak underneath it will immediately drain and shut off while setting off an alarm alerting you of a leak. We had that happen because we didn't get the water inlet tight enough at first.  I know this is a built-in dishwasher, but we had a portable dishwasher that had went bad that we'd acquired and so I gutted the case and put this one in it along with a new hose assembly.  So now, we have a top of the line portable dishwasher which is better than any portable dishwasher that the stores sell anywhere!  We have had this thing  a couple months now and use it every day or two.  We have yet to have any food get redeposited.  The filter literally does stop all of the food particles and then everytime it drains then it first backflushes the filter so that any food particles it has captured gets flushed down the drain which is easy to see with the portable hookup.  It then drains the rest of the water.  I do remove the filter every few uses to check and only once or twice did i decide to wash it because it had a few things that didn't flush out completely, but that was me being paranoid, it honestly wasn't that bad.  We use the \"accusense\" cycle which is the automatic cycle where it stops several times to detect the food particles in the water and will automatically adjust the cycle time/ # of rinses according to how dirty the dishes are.  This thing does have pretty much every option including extra rinse, rinse only, heated dry, stainless tub, jets upon jets upon jets. accusense, hard food \"pirannah\" disposal, self cleaning filter, drip pan with leak detector, top drawer is adjustable, adjustable/removable tines on both drawers, QUIET, sanitation cycle, etc etc.  I have never written this detailed of a review about anything online before, but this dishwasher just keeps on impressing us upon every use. I have it running a cycle as I type this!  It doesn't use much water at all either. I'm not kidding you when I tell you that filling one side of our kitchen sink just once uses more water than an entire cycle. Add rinse water to that and then the dishwasher's water usage is even more minute when compared to hand washing.  If loaded correctly, this thing will hold 16 place settings. I have loaded it down so much more than our older GE portable and everything comes out crystal clean, whether it be plastic, stainless, glassware, silverware, ceramic, etc!  I know that it's not cheap, that was our hesitation too, but we are so glad we bit the bullet and bought it!  If you have any questions about this dishwasher, please ask them as I might have an answer for you!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4809, "id": 518218, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 621, "len_tokens": 841, "text": "On March 16, 2016, I called Electrolux to request a warranty repair of my then 10-week old dishwasher.  The phone rep asked numerous questions, including what, exactly, was wrong with my dishwasher.  She then instructed me how to try to \"reset\" the dishwasher (which failed), and then she scheduled what I thought was a repair appointment, five days later on March 21.  The rep asked me whether I preferred a repair time window of 8:00 a.m. to Noon, or Noon to 5:00.  I said I preferred morning as I had an afternoon appointment.  The rep then told me that Whitman Appliance Repair would contact me the day before to tell me my specific appointment time.  The day before, sure enough Whitman called, only to tell me that would see me between 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m.  I said that Electrolux scheduled me for 8:00 a.m. to Noon.  Whitman said they could come between 10:00 and 2:00, or they could reschedule for a later date.  So at the last minute, I had to schedule an entire vacation day off work, and reschedule my afternoon meeting.  On March 21, Whitman arrived as scheduled.  The repair technician walked into my house, looked at my dishwasher, and said, \"what's wrong with it?\"  I said, \"didn't Electrolux tell you?\"  The technician said, \"they don't tell us nothing.\"  I explained the problem.  He then said, \"you need a new blah blah blah\" (a part).  \"We'll have to order it, it will arrive in 3 to 10 business days.  Then we will call you to schedule the repair.\"  He then took a few pictures of my dishwasher, including a picture of the serial number.  He was in my house for all of about 30 seconds.  I said, you mean I wasted a whole day's vacation so you could ask me the exact same question that I already answered for the Electrolux phone rep?\"  He said, we'll, I needed to get the serial number.\"  I said, \"I needed to tell the phone rep the serial number before she would schedule the repair!\"  He said, \"I also needed to take pictures of your dishwasher to document any pre-existing damage, so you can't sue us to fix something that wasn't our fault.\"  Great!  I blew an entire vacation day so that Electrolux and Whitman Appliance Repair could cover their butts.  Finally, on March 29 -- 19 days after I called Electrolux, I got to schedule yet another vacation day and my dishwasher was finally repaired.  The complete lack of even basic communication between Electrolux and Whitman and the long (half-day) appointment windows for repair convince me that Electrolux and Whitman Appliance have absolutely no regard for customer service.  I will think long and hard before I ever buy another Electrolux appliance.  NEW TOPIC:  The dishwasher I replaced was a very low-end model.  The Electrolux was, at $888 retail, what I thought was a mid-to-high range model.  It has a stainless steel interior and a third rack, which I liked.  However, I learned the expensive way that a more expensive dishwasher does NOT clean my dishes any better than a cheap one.  The ONLY real difference between my old dishwasher and the new Electrolux, is that the Electrolux is quieter when running.  However, the noise level of my old dishwasher never bothered me or my family.  Or bedrooms and TV room are separate floors from the kitchen, so we rarely heard the old dishwasher.  And even if we were sitting nearby, we could converse or play music or do whatever without ever being bothered by the dishwasher.  If I ever have to buy another dishwasher, I'll choose a cheap one (and very lucky NOT an Electrolux).", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4810, "id": 520484, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 750, "len_tokens": 873, "text": "Let me preface by saying I only had this fridge for a few days so I hope I don't face electronics issues or otherwise. I'm in love with this fridge. The LED lighting makes every opening a moment of pure bliss. It is so spacious ! My other fridge was of similar dimensions, although a little less deep, and a side by side. What a difference 3 cu ft and a different design make ! I love that I don't have to bend over to see what's in the bottom shelves. Everything I had in my previous fridge fit and there's space left ! We chose this model over the one that has a \"flex zone\" drawer because we felt that flex zone drawer was more of a gimmick and was not bringing much for the price difference. To the contrary, the one with the flex zone had a smaller door-in-door space and no deli/meat drawer at all - meaning the flex zone really would have ended up a meat drawer. And the compartment separation is just a physical mark - not a separation of cold zones. To boot, the bottom inner drawer of this model is also a flex zone... smaller, but big enough for our purposes. We also chose Samsung over LG based on the various reviews on different sites (Amazon, the Home Depot, Lowes etc) because Samsung seemed to have less lemons and electronic issues. Fingers crossed.\n\nDelivery was great, the drivers were in the time scheduled. They had to jump through hoops to get the fridge through the door - even had to remove the doors - they were really helpful. Fridge was undamaged.\n\nThere is a bit of assembly that you have to do yourself (handles, adjusting doors so that they be even) and there's a lot - a lot - of plastic peeling.\n\nLet's try a pros/cons methodical list for this model.\n\nPros :\n- so beautiful !! I have to tell my HUSBAND to stop playing with the fridge :)\n- easy access for the kids with the door in door\n- lots and lots of space. So much I have to debate where to put things.\n- there is a full ice bucket in the freezer ! This is a great feature, as you don't have to rely on just the ice dispenser and upper ice compartment ! You can chose to enable or disable each ice maker separately - so if you need more room in the freezer, no problem !\n- electronic setting of temperatures on front panel, with a choice of F/C\n- temporary fast freeze or fast chill if you need to freeze or chill items faster\n- the door in door feature is fantastic. This is what drew us to this model rather than another.\n\nCons :\n- You have to organize things differently, so be ready for change. For instance, things that used to be on the shelves, like milk cartons, orange juice, beers, yogurt pouches - are now in the door-in-door and the wine bottles and condiments that used to be in the door do not fit there any longer... I've fit the taller bottles on the shelf that is under the one you can lift, but wondering if I should instead get stackable fridge racks. Still debating. I'm planning on purchasing a tray for the condiments so that I can easily access the ones from the back without taking everything out. Not sure if it's a real con - maybe more a change process.\n- The bottom tray of the door in door is really small and there's not much that can fit in there. I think juice boxes maybe ? We don't have juice boxes so for us this space is empty for now - it's a bit too bad.\n- The top tray of the door in door is supposed to be for cans, but you can really only fit 3 cans there ! 4 if you put one on top of the three other ones on one side. Again a bit of a wasted space. I would have preferred the top and bottom shelves to be combined in one for more usable space.\n- for my usage, the crispers are too small. We mostly purchase produce. I will have to purchase an additional container for the produce that do not fit in the crispers. Don't get it wrong - they are good size crispers - but it depends on your habits I guess.\n\nOverall enjoying my new fridge very much !", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4811, "id": 523520, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 654, "len_tokens": 825, "text": "The people who design these pieces of junk should be taken out to a firing squad and forced to sit naked on traffic pylons 8 inches deep while everyone laughs, and then be forced to go back to the design studio and do it right.  I have never seen such embarrassing engineering. It is no wonder people don't want to buy American.  This is one of the worst laundry machines I've ever experienced.\n\nProblem 1.  If you put a comforter in here like you are supposed to be able to wash, and use the heavy duty cycle, sometimes the machine won't spin. It will just tumble the comforter continuously because the machine cannot handle the weight of the items. Gee, then why do they say you can wash, rinse and spin comforters in this thing. Hence, the soapy water is not extracted, and neither is enough of the liquid fabric softener. And the dryer will take forever to dry the item\n\nProblem 2.  When the machine spins, the tub wobbles and always hits the side of the cabin. This is supposed to be normal according to Whirlpool. Really \"Whirlpoop\"? It doesn't matter whether the load is perfectly balanced or not - the tub wobbles and doesn't spin precisely during the wash and rinse cycles and almost always wobbles on the spin cycles. This causes the machine to eventually sound like a jackhammer during the spin cycle. It goes off balance way to easily.\n\nProblem 3.  And what is the need for the pump to be on draining water out of the machine when the water has long since been drained out of the tub?  Is this to make the utility companies happy? Energy savings my laundry tub... please.\n\nProblem 4. It doesn't use enough water. I don't want detergent left on my clothes when the machine is done. Even with the extra rinse option, the rinsing is not adequate. I have noticed this problem with H.E. dishwashers too. We want our items thoroughly rinsed. Some of us have allergies to those chemicals, and some of us just don't want those residues left on our clothes or dishes. I have noticed that it rinses better if the pre-soak option is used, but a person shouldn't have to do this.\n\nProblem 5. It doesn't do a good job of cleaning clothes. It just basically soaks them because the washing action is so gentle. If you work on a farm or oil rig, or do heavy warehouse work, etc., forget it - you don't want a front-loader, at least not an American one perhaps, and definitely not this one.. You'd be better off with a top loading Speed Queen washer. Stain removal? LOL!  Please -- not with this machine. It can't even remove lint half the time.\n\nProblem 6. Too much plastic.  The doors and parts of the hinges shouldn't be made out of plastic. One can only wonder what the inside is made of .\n\nProblem 7. The cycles take too long. Why should it take over an hour to wash clothes or whatever you want to wash? This is ridiculous. The older machines would be done with everything in 35 minutes or so, so would the dishwasher.\n\nThere is nothing I like about this machine. It is under-engineered, expensive,  cheaply made, under powered, bulky, ugly and ridiculous.  I'm only using it because it is part of a rental agreement situation that I fell into.. There is reason why so many of us are not pleased with HE machines. It's because HE usually means subpar performance, durability, etc.\n\nI have not recommended Whirlpool or the machines they make for other labels (Roper, Nutid, Renlig, some Kenmores, Estate)  for 10 years now and this machine just re-affirms why I have taken that stand.  My friend recently bought a laundry pair and he was going to buy Whirlpool. I was the one that dissuaded him from that decision.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4812, "id": 528974, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 676, "len_tokens": 817, "text": "This hinge set solved my oven door problem.  This oven is about 10 years old and has worked well.  Just recently, the door did not want to stay closed all the way and there was a 12mm (~.5\" gap) between the door and the oven.  This was causing the oven light to flicker off/on with any nearby vibration and you could see into the oven with the door closed, so heat was being lost.  After replacing these hinges, the gap was cut to 5mm (~.2\") and the door was pulling into the closed position like it did when new.  I also replaced the door gasket because it was well worn, hard and in need of replacement.  But, I tested the effect first of having just replaced the hinges before installing the new gasket.  The new hinges definitely solved the overall closing problem.\n\nThe springs on the hinge assemblies for this door are quite large and my first thought was \"it couldn't be that these large springs have lost tension\".  I was wrong because the door itself is very heavy and the springs do lose tension over years of use and supporting that door.\n\nA word to the wise.  This is no small/easy fix and you should be prepared for quite an effort to replace these hinges.  The new hinges are not tapped (threaded) to be mounted in place.  The instructions suggest that you use the new self-tapping screws that come with this set, but I have never been a fan of trusting a screw to tap a hole in anything but thin metal.  I used my Tap set and cut the threads into both hinges by hand (there are 4 such places that you will need to tap for threads).\n\nAlso, removing the warming drawer (which is essential) proved to take extra time too.  One of the big problems was getting to and removing the small hex-head set screw on the right-side drawer-rail.  That set screw was positioned behind part of the metal on the rail and I had to dremel-out an area so that I could access/loosen the screw with a tool.  That screw's entire purpose is to prevent being able to use the release lever on the right side rail so that you can remove the warming drawer.  So, guess what screw was not replaced after I was done with this project.  :^)\n\nWith my oven, to access the replacement \"receptacle\" brackets that also come with this set, I had to pull the oven out into the kitchen and remove (2) screws in the back to allow the warming drawer wall assembly to be fully removed.  That is because you can't physically get your hands into the required area to replace the receptacle brackets.  Lots of sharp edges that can cut you, so either be careful or wear some thin work gloves.  Also, when you replace the receptacles, it is very handy to use a wire hook (even a coat hanger wire bent into a hook would work).  This is because you are having to hold that receptacle in place that is held inside the oven wall while also getting the (2) mounting screws started from the outside.  If you hook onto the receptacle from the outside, you can hold it in place with one hand while starting the screws with the other hand.\n\nDon't cut-corners and use parts from your old hinges, brackets or receptacles.  You will find there are worn areas on all, and grooves cut into the metal parts from years of opening and closing the oven door.  Take the time to replace all the parts even though some of them are a pain to deal with.  I also added some extra grease to various places on the new hinge set.  The original parts on the oven were well-greased around the moving parts, but this new replacement set had a lot less grease applied in those areas.\n\nGood luck with your repair and I can 100% say that these parts were \"the ticket\" to solving my oven door problem.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4813, "id": 530790, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 628, "len_tokens": 815, "text": "How amazing is it to buy a refrigerator online, btw?\n\nWe've had it a year, and it's been problem-free.  It's really good refrigerator overall.  Things I don't like are how anal it is about the water filter (it basically prevented me from doing anything until I changed it...so I just put the bypass \"filter\" back on to shut it up and decided I'm never gonna buy filters for it...plus, I already have an inline filter for the water line); also not a big fan of the ice maker...it's small (as one might expect when mouted to a door), but it's also pretty slow to make ice.  Also somewhat expected since the icemaker isn't in the freezer, but still...\n\nLike any refrigerator, there's always something that doesn't fit somewhere, and this is pretty good about making room.  It does have one shelf that can be \"halved\"...half of the glass shelf slides underneath the rear half to allow taller items.\n\nWell lit, bright LEDs.  Not sure I need the lower tray to go between red, blue, and green to indicate food temps that vary by a few degrees, but the kids like seeing the colors change when the press the button.\n\nI was hoping the lower chest freezer door was a little tougher to open, as my toddlers figured out pretty quickly how to throw their weight and get it open.  There are obvious safety concerns about this in general, so just be mindful when considering a bottom freezer in general.  (There are universal kid-safety kits for latching it closed, btw.)\n\n----------------------\n...fast forward to 3/9/17....2-year-ish update:\n\nAll systems still functioning.  The brushed finish has held up remarkably well to my monkey-grip kids, who have literally climbed the lower freezer door to access fridge items.  All LEDs are still nice and bright.\n\nOther things observed:\n\n1. It gets exceptionally cold on the top shelf of the fridge near the \"TwinChill\" ports, despite the temperature setting being set at the recommended 37 or 1-2 higher.  As such, some items in that area have been partially frozen if left there too long.\n\n2.  If the humidity inside rises, it prevents the ice cubes from falling further into the bin so that they can be dispensed.  They basically stick together a little, and the bin is pretty narrow, so it's rather easy for the ice to stay towards the top of the bin, while dispensed ice creates a void underneath.  Nothing is broken in that regard, but it just prevents new ice from being made...and considering it's a small bin as-is, it's always nice to have as much ice available as possible (I use ice often).\n\n3. The Precise Fill mode is a bit picky and will stop filling automatically (as a precaution) if it thinks the container it's filling is too full.  My thought is this: There's already an Auto Fill mode...the behavior I just described seems fitting for that mode.  In Precise Mode, I'm telling it precisely how much water I want, which should imply that I know how much water the container can hold.  For example, I have a 2qt pitcher for making 2qts worth of a beverage...the pitcher, of course, holds just a little more than 2qts.  Sometimes the fridge stops at 1qt, and sometimes at 1.75qt, because it's sensing the water level and stops filling.  If it's not going to put the precise amount I ask for, the button may as well say Almost Precise Fill.  Alas, I can live with holding the button to continue filling.\n\n4. Noise isn't too bad.  Every now and then, there's a \"what was that noise?\" moment, but it's nothing compared to the ghosts that keep opening and closing my closet doors.\n\nAll things considered, still a good fridge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4814, "id": 536087, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 663, "len_tokens": 827, "text": "I was a little nervous ordering the washer/dryer as there weren't a lot of reviews on it (well, none really), but the build quality seems good, and it does a great job.  Though I didn't notice this on the specs, it's a HE unit, excellent for my use on our boat, as it uses very little water per cycle.  The condensing drying function works well, though as with other similar units I have read reviews of, it does make the room it is operating in quite warm and humid.  The standard drying cycle runs one hour and leaves clothes mostly dry, though still slightly damp, however running a second drying cycle (with less resultant humidity) leaves clothes dry.  I think ultimately I may end up running a vent for it, but it's nice that this unit can work either way.  All in all, I've been really pleased with this unit - it has a lot of flexibility, as you can customize virtually very cycle, and set it to wash and then dry, wash only, dry only, or simply rinse and spin.\n\nUpdate:\nI've been using this unit for a few weeks now, and still love it.  I'm not sure what the other reviewer is talking about - the unit by default does a wash cycle and goes immediately into a dry cycle without having to start them separately, or you can choose to do a wash or dry independently, as I noted above.  I had to give up on the condensing dry function - it works, but it just made the room too humid.  I ran a vent, and have been very happy.  It's really nice that this unit can do either - many of the combo units are not so flexible.\nOur clothes, even soiled, come out very clean and smelling great - even sheets and blankets from bedtime accidents with my kids.  Even the laundromat commercial washers would occasionally have trouble getting rid of the smell from bed-wetting accidents, but this one does great, even on the 40 minute \"quick\" cycle.  The dryer function is very slow - by default it sets itself for an hour, but I've found that if I have a full load, I need to increase that to two hours for everything to be bone dry even with the vent.  On a boat, we fight moisture a lot, so my wife and I like clothes to be as dry as possible before we put them away. Anyway, I'll update this if we start to experience problems, but so far this has been a home run purchase, and the seller \"Indoor Appliances\" was really great - got a live person by e-mail or phone right away when I had questions pre-purchase and during shipping (even over weekends), and at present they have a nice return policy if you're not happy - no hidden restocking fees.\n\nUpdate 1/23/2015\nWell, though it has worked really well for us, the unit died today.  Waiting to hear back from support as to whether it will be repaired, replaced, or refunded.  It's a shame - worked really well until this happened - I'd be willing to try another if they offer a replacement, but a two month life-span is, obviously, a bit disappointing.\n\nUpdate 2/7/2015\nAppliance Desk (service end for the \"Indoor Appliances\" vendor) made a diagnosis over the phone based on the washer's on screen error code, and sent out a replacement part Fed-ex second day.  They had no technicians in the area, but offered to pay for any local appliance or handy-man service willing to swap out the part.  Swapping out the motor which drives the main drum was really simple, and it's been up and running for several days now without a hitch.  They extended my warranty another month as compensation.  Got two boxes of 5 lb HE detergent too.\n\nUpdate 4/23/2015\nUnit continues to function as above - no further problems, and it sees almost daily use.  Very pleased.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4815, "id": 536948, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 679, "len_tokens": 875, "text": "OVERALL:\nReally a fantastic machine. Usually when I hear \"efficient\" I think 'ineffective'. Not so with this thing. I've had Bosch, GE and Kitchen-aid dishwashers, this one is the best so far---and for far less. It is Consumer Reports choice for 2016--- and it's recommended by both my friend who owns an appliance repair shop, and my friends at Lowe's. Bought this one on sale (normally 599, got it for 399), plugged it in, and ran it through the absolute ringer. ALL of the dishes in the house were dirty, dried on and icky (I really wanted to see how this thing performed and the unit arrived late). I went from the person who soaked and pre-washed EVERYTHING to a person who scrapes off the food and runs that baby---all in that single, trial run. VERY impressed. I used the \"sensor\" wash cycle and it delivered.. but you may want the 1 hour wash.\n\nNOISE: You'll be checking to see if it's running. I promise. Turn the close captioning off. You won't need it anymore.\n\nCAPACITY: I have a family of five who cooks from scratch...and everyone passes the buck on dishes; Which means I get stuck with them most of the time. What used to take three loads in a day now takes one. Right? Mama Happy Dance... that's me. Adjustable/removable top rack. Deep bottom. Top sprayer points down, sprayer under top rack, sprayer on bottom rack, and the top rack sprayer targets the silverware on the door. Like I said I went from three loads down to one. That's huge.\n\nINSTALLATION:\n-You need a 90 degree reverse threaded elbow for the water line, which is not included.\n-Whirlpool provides the waste line, but not the water line.\n-Whirlpool does not the provide the power cord... snag the one off your old washer or pick up a new one for 15 bucks or so.\n-A little duct tape on the insulation at the back end of the washer keeps it from bunching on a tight install.\n-Leveled at the factory but that's adjustable.\n\nSHIPPING:\nPlease note I've seen some sellers list this as 80 lbs in weight. I'm dubious. Lowe's listed it as 55... and really it's so light I had it in out of the van and in my house before my husband got his tools together.\n\nNEGATIVE REVIEWS: I would be dubious of these on various sites. When I go to shop for something I research it like a banshee. I've seen repeat complaints and those complaints change in BRAND, sometimes user name, but not content. This leads me to believe that some competitors are using the review boards with ill intent. While there may be legitimate complaints, of course, I am merely pointing to the things that raised red flags for me, which I compared to the learned recommendations of those whom I know to deal in appliances. I recommend you do the same.\n\nI've seen prices vary widely. Shop around.\n\nCOMMON COMPLAINTS: Dry times and smell.\nIf people would read the owner's manual, they'd be happier.\n--You must--I repeat MUST--use rinse aid. If it still isn't working, the \"dose\" of rinse aid is adjustable and can be changed with a dial in the reservoir. I had to make this adjustment and boom--dry dishes. Let the thing finish its dry cycle... so many do not. Let it air out and cool down for a few minutes before unloading if doing multiple loads.\n--You must-- I repeat MUST clean the filter. It's incredibly easy and it keeps your dishwasher from smelling. Think of it this way: you would not leave the strainer in your sink full of gunk for even a minute... why would you do it with your dishwasher?\n--Know where the heating element is. Put the plastics on the top---it heats from the bottom. Capice?\n\nHalf a cup to a cup of white vinegar on a quick wash will clear out any smells, should you experience them at all.\n\nQuestions? Bring em' on. Happy to help. I'm one of those careful shoppers, too.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4816, "id": 539238, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 766, "len_tokens": 864, "text": "Just like the previous review on here, after purchasing a new fridge by Whirlpool model number WRF736SDAM13 I came to realize it seemed to be missing a shelf in the door. If you purchased this model refrigerator and feel the same way. THIS ITEM IS FOR YOU.\n\nIf you have this fridge you know that the left and right doors differ from each other. The left door contains the ice maker, ice storage, and dispenser area that opens out at the front for getting ice and water. Because this door has so much going on it offers only two door shelves and they are made much slimmer than a traditional door shelf due to the space allowed from the ice system. The right door, however, is made more traditionally and offers 3 shelves that are deep enough (front to back) to easily hold a gallon jug of milk.\n\nBut.... when you install your door shelves where you want them and step back and look you realize that the right door has a lot of dead space at the bottom as if it's missing something there. Because of how the drawer system at the bottom of the interior fridge section comes out so far there is no room there for any of the full size shelves in the door to fit that low. Not only do they stick out too far (front to back) and won't close properly due to the drawers being there, they also will not lock in place anyway.. as if the manufacturer modeled the shelf hooks this way on purpose.to prevent damage to the too wide shelf if it's forced there.\n\nBut , again, you discover that the slimmer shelves on the left side door fit in this space perfectly! the width is fine for closing properly without banging into the drawers and the shelf hooks lock in place exactly. The only problem now is that your left side door has that dead space your right side did before.\n\nSo you look around to make sure you didn't miss anything.. surely there's another shelf in the fridge box. But no.. you look online figuring you can find that there's a way to contact the store you bought it from to let them know it's missing. Only to find it's not missing at all. They didn't include the shelf on purpose. It was never meant to have this extra shelf included when it leaves the factory, despite the slim shelf fitting perfectly.\n\nSo the search begins for a way to buy one separately. And what a search it is. Believe me I've looked everywhere and this particular Amazon listing (as of July 2016 anyway) is the cheapest total for it anywhere.\n\nYou can find it at it's base price for as low as 17 dollars at special \"appliance parts\" websites. But it never fails that the cheaper the piece is at these places the higher the shipping and handling costs they charge you. I have never found one of these appliance sites selling a shelf for under 20 dollars where the shipping wasn't 15 dollars or more.. so you still end up paying as much at those online stores in the end as you would for this listing's base price regardless.. and of course this item can be shipped free with your Prime account or an order over $49.00 so the base price is all you would pay.\n\nThis listing had me leery of purchasing at first because of the awful picture provided by the seller (no offense to the seller but the image is hard to decipher) I knew what I needed from the shelves I already had in the fridge. And this picture just didn't look like them at all. I found another listing on here that had the correct images and was the exact same part number for the item but that listing was 10 dollars or so more. I decided to trust the original reviewer on here, along with the part numbers matching, and go for it. I purchased this cheaper option and was very glad I did as it was exactly what I needed.\n\nSo to help any future shoppers looking for this I decided to add an image to my review to give you some help in your own decision making. I take no credit for it being a 'good' image but... it gives you a much better idea of what you are purchasing than the original pic for this item.\n\nThanks again to the original reviewer and if you decide to purchase this enjoy your finally COMPLETE fridge.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4817, "id": 540739, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 683, "len_tokens": 825, "text": "I purchased this refrigerator brand new from Best Buy on December 28, 2014.  On April 20, 2018, upon opening the right-side refrigerator door, the top door hinge suddenly failed and the door collapsed.  I managed to catch it with both hands, prop it up, and close it, thus preventing it from falling off completely and crashing to the floor along with food, glass jars and bottles, etc.  Had I not caught the door just in time, it most certainly would've caused great damage to the door, the floor, and possible injury to myself and anyone else in the immediate area.  My greatest concern is that my 3 year-old daughter sometimes opens the fridge door and the accident could've been much worse had the hinge failed when she opened it with possible severe injury and even death!\n\nOn April 21, 2018, I brought this incident to the attention of Best Buy Geek Squad Protection hotline but to no avail.  They said that the Best Buy 3-year warranty for which I had paid $70 extra recently expired on 1/28/18.  They suggested I contact Samsung as the manufacturer of the product.  I then called Samsung and spoke to customer service.  After gathering the necessary info, the rep proceeded to inform me that the 3-year manufacturer warranty on parts was expired and that my only recourse is to pay for a service technician to come out and fix the defective part, or call the Samsung parts department, order the part, and attempt to fix the issue myself, essentially saying \"you're on your own\".  This proposal was unacceptable to me so I then spoke to a customer service supervisor who essentially told me the same thing.\n\nMy very last option was to send an email to the Samsung office of the president, which I did explaining the whole incident.  I received a call on April 23, 2018 from a Samsung representative responding to my email complaint.  The rep asked if there were any injuries or property damage related to the incident to which I responded that there were none.  It was essentially a \"Cover Your A**\" call to ensure that they had no legal liability for damages.  She then said that there was nothing Samsung was going to do to remedy the issue and that the manufacturer's warranty had expired after 1 year from date of sale, which is an even worse answer since apparently they only cover such a defect for only 1 year instead of 3 years as I was previously told by Samsung customer service.\n\nThis is a $1,800 MSRP refrigerator failing to the point where it's practically useless after only 3 years of normal use (planned obsolescence perhaps?).  To be clear, this is not an ordinary parts issue due to normal wear and tear like the seal on the door coming off or anything like that.  This is a CONSUMER PRODUCT SAFETY ISSUE due to a MANUFACTURER'S DEFECT IN THE PART.  Honestly, even if I got this fridge repaired (at my own expense), I don't feel safe using it anymore as the door failing and falling off again (or the other door failing) could very easily cause severe injury and even death to a young child.\n\nI've since reported this incident to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission and I intend to post reviews everywhere else that I can in order to warn people about this product and its potentially fatal defect.  That being said, I realize that mistakes in manufacturing can and do happen and parts can fail.  However, Samsung's response to their mistake and defect is utterly disgraceful and they should be ashamed.  I was a long time loyal customer of Samsung owning cell phones, TVs, an oven range, and a microwave but I will never buy another product from them again!  I suggest you do the same not only for the safety of your family but to send a message to giant corporations with abysmal policies and practices that they need to stand by their products and treat their customers right.  Stand by your products, Samsung, it's that simple!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4818, "id": 543720, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 740, "len_tokens": 890, "text": "Let me preface my review by saying that while I unfortunately own this range, I didn't choose it (it came with the house). I've been using it regularly for 8 months now, and there are just so many cons. Here goes:\n\nIt's small. Yes it's 30 inches wide and therefore not huge, but the design of the stove makes its usable space even smaller than necessary. For instance, the interior oven space is small. The movable racks are oddly spaced (see photo), and so even with the rack on the lowest rung, the usable oven space is not even 2 ft wide x 1 ft high. (And you can't use the lowest rung anyway, because anything you try to cook there, even at a super low temperature for barely 10 minutes, will burn. So forget about putting 2 things in the oven at once. Even if you can get them to physically fit, the one on the bottom will most certainly burn).\n\nThe varying sizes of burners is unnecessary and inconvenient (see photo, please ignore the spills as I just snapped this photo while cooking). There are 2 normal sized burners on the right. On the left, the back burner is minuscule, and I'm not sure why that's considered a good idea in the stove design world. If you want low heat/flame, just set a normal sized burner to low. It's not rocket science. The front left burner is a double ring - the inner ring (much like the back left burner), is too small to use (the only time I ever use it is to cook a single egg in a tiny pan, but again, this is something that can easily be accomplished on a normal sized burner set to low), and the larger outer ring is so massive that even with the flame at its lowest, the flames curl up around the sides of even very large pots. Not exactly great for safety. I only use the massive ring of fire when cooking with a wok, and then it's almost ok.\n\nThe height of the stove is very low, and even though I'm not exactly a giant (I'm 5'7''), I always feel like I'm hunching over when I cook (and yes, I did adjust the legs to optimize the stove height). Furthermore the location of the knobs is unnecessarily low. I need to full out bend over to see which burner I'm turning on. And forget about the handle bar - it's annoyingly low to hang a kitchen towel from.\n\nThe bottom of the range is neither a drawer nor a broiler. It's not even extra oven space. Just seems like a big waste, esp when the unit is so pressed for space to begin with.\n\nThe range has legs, and no matter how many times I check it with a level in every which direction to confirm that it's straight, I still feel like anything I cook on the front burners is about to slide off onto my legs. To be honest, I'm not sure why anyone would want a range on legs, although sure it looks all designy and everything. But the kitchen floor under it will always look dirty, unless you want to sweep it out every couple of days, and hey that's cool if that's your thing.\n\nIt's kid unsafe. As I mentioned above, the stove surface is low to the ground, and not only are the knobs ridiculously low, but they're spaced together so closely that childproof knob covers won't fit. Also, if you have kids, you really don't want this stove anyway because you can't cook or bake very much at one time with it.\n\nThe oven light doesn't come on automatically when you open the door - you need to turn it on manually. That's just annoying.\n\nIt's crazy expensive.\n\nSo here's the pro (and I tried really hard to think of more than just one): I would choose this range over an open bonfire in the woods. So it's got that going for it. Otherwise I wouldn't consider buying it unless maybe you are someone who really doesn't cook very often or ever in large quantities (i.e. no kids, no holiday hosting), you love things that look designy like legs on a range (but you also love to clean difficult to reach floor spaces), you're shorter than 5'7'', and you have extra cash to burn.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4819, "id": 543994, "interval": [800, 900], "len_words": 692, "len_tokens": 862, "text": "This washer fills a very important niche, and does it well. If your home is not outfitted with hookups (or doesn't allow washers), this is great model to consider.  I owned the previous version (GE WSLP1500JWW) for several years which I had to sell due to moving.  That model never gave an issue and work just like the day I bought it.  GE has made some minor changes to the product (new simplified display, different lint catch,  \"basket clean\" function added), but more or less it seems to work just like my previous model.  I will highlight my impressions here:\n\n1. Quality build\nI had a cheap Haier before I got my GE, and I honestly didn't trust it very much. I really think you get what you pay for, and with GE I can set and forget with confidence. Of course, it is more expensive than other models, but considering the premium you would have to pay to get an apartment already fitted with hookups, you may still be saving money in the longrun.\n\n2. Great faucet adapter fitting\nFirst, don't make the mistake I did when setting up. The adapter has threads on both the outside and inside to accommodate basically any faucet aerator connection. I didn't notice the inside threads because there is a double rubber washer covering it. Take the upper rubber washer out to expose the inner threads! I felt very embarrassed at the hardware store when looking for another adapter. It turns out I didn't need one!\n\nThe adapter has a water bypass switch (Awesome!!) Just push the red button and it allows water to flow thru the bottom. You can use this to test water temperature, or to otherwise use the sink while running a load. Great idea! The faucet adapter also houses the drain so that you basically have just one connection to worry about if you're hooking up and detaching frequently (like I am). The ridge connection to the faucet ensures that the drain cannot slip out and end up on the floor (happened with my Haier once.) Also, it allows the release of line pressure so there isn't an explosion of water every time you disconnect.  This is a fantastic hose!\n\n3. Reasonably quiet\nI've heard quieter washers (like the ones in Japan, where all you hear is the swish of water, like a river is washing your clothes), but this one isn't terribly loud. Basically a rhythmic hum during the wash cycle and you can guess what spin sounds like. I did some tests from outside my apartment, it can be faintly heard on the other side of the wall, but I don't think I'd notice it if I wasn't intentionally listening for it. It can definitely be quieter, but was satisfied with the sound level. (My complex doesn't allow washers so I have to be very sensitive to this issue).\n\n4. BIG, but portable\nThe washer is big (nearly full sized at 2.6).  It is rated less than the previous 2.7 version, but I think it handles exactly the same.  Again, I consider this washer to be the upper limit of capacity for an apartment-type portable. My previous Haier was pathetically small. Although it scared me when they delivered it, it is surprisingly light (only about 100lbs). The casters are fairly decent for rolling front and back. Casters could be improved as it can be difficult to make turns.\n\n5. Other\nAgitator-less: I think this is a necessity for all portables space saving purposes. However, it also has the benefit of being MUCH easier on clothes.\nStill doesn't quite seem to fill, similar to their previous version, but I trust expertise at GE as they know alot more about washers than I ever will.\nReasonably energy-efficient\nEasy to setup\n\nOverall, I'm very happy with the washer. It's been enormously convenient, and much more pleasant than using public laundry facilities. I would definitely purchase again!\n\nNOTE: Don't be scared by the price, I found this model much cheaper at Home Depot, which also has free delivery.\n\n5 stars! It's simply the best out there for washer-less apartments!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4820, "id": 9134, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 742, "len_tokens": 910, "text": "I did not purchase this item from Amazon - in fact, I bought a used 3-year-old machine from an individual in my local area for less than $100.  But just thought I'd add a positive review here, comment on the functionality of a 3+ year old machine, and also offer an idea to those interested in installing wheels on their machine.\n\nOverall, I love this machine and can't believe I lived so long in a top floor apartment without purchasing one!  The unit I purchased used has some minor dings and dents in the outer casing which the seller said were there from the time he purchased it new online and removed it from the original packaging.  Also, somewhere in his three years of use, the indicator light for the \"Power Wash\" cycle burned out - so you have to use common sense to figure out when the machine is programmed to use \"Power Wash\" rather than relying on the indicator light alone (this is not hard to do).  But as far as basic function, the durability of all main components and parts, etc. - so far the machine looks to be holding up perfectly and running perfectly.  I have done 10 loads so far in the few days I've owned it - not one problem.  Only one load became unbalanced, and I think its because at the end of my 10 loads I got curious about how much the machine could really hold, and loaded a bit too many things into there :)  But even as I was doing it I knew I was pushing the limit!\n\nJust for an idea of the machine's capacity - I was able to wash in one load:\na full set of queen sized sheets (fitted, flat, 2 pillowcases)\nTwo full size bath towels and two hand towels\nTwo days worth of women's clothing (medium) - two pairs slacks, two tops, 1 pair pajamas, and undergarments/socks\n\nI used an HE, organic/eco-friendly detergent, and did quick washes on everything - all my items came out smelling and looking very clean.\n\nNow, for an idea about how to put some wheels on the machine.  A word of warning - this is not a factory installation, so proceed your own risk!\nI searched for the caster kit online but couldn't find them from a reliable-looking source.  The holes at the bottom of the machine for the rubber feet are 3/8\" diameter.  Only the hole for the leveling leg is threaded - the others are not.\nI went to a local big-box home improvement shop in my city, and though I couldn't find any 3/8\" stem casters, I did find some 5/16\" screw casters for $3 apiece.  I also purchased a pack of machine nuts, lock washers and flat washers for about $2.  I came home, turned my machine on its front, unscrewed the bottom panel, and took out the rubber feet.  I then installed the wheels I purchased with a flat washer on each side, and a lock washer and machine nut in the inner side.  For the leveling leg, I had to experiment a little - I added an extra nut on the outside, and had to turn the machine upright and use my level a few times before I got it to the proper height.  But these wheels are now very firmly in place on the machine.  Though the casters I purchased are not the locking type, I have a small, squre rubber mat (like a yoga mat) cut to 18\"x18\", that I roll the machine onto prior to running it.  I was already using this mat before the wheel install, just to cut down on vibration - but discovered that the friction of the wheels against the rubber renders the machine unable to move even during the spin cycles.  Sweet!  So, total price of my wheel install = about $14.  And if you can salvage a rubber mat, or find one for sale used at a thrift store, etc., even better.  Just an idea I thought I'd share for anyone out there interested in putting their machine on wheels.\n\nIn summary - very happy with this machine, despite some minor cosmetic flaws that seem to be a function of its 3 years of use.  Even happier now that I've got it on wheels, and was able to do so inexpensively and without having to order the parts which are hard to come by online.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4821, "id": 17614, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 766, "len_tokens": 956, "text": "I never had a stove without a range hood, but when I moved in my new house (which is actually a very old house) there were only cabinets above the stove. No hood at all. I really missed the light the most! Venting would have been very difficult as the house is made of stones, and the walls inside are concrete blocks with metal mesh holding plaster. Not a simple drywall type installation at all. So I decided a ventless hood was the best and easiest option for me. I worried that it wouldn't be effective, but it does a surprisingly good job at moving air. A little noisy, but most hoods I have ever owned were slightly noisy. There is a clip-on cover for the front little vents if you indeed have a vented option.\n\nI did not know that hood was not shipped with the extra filter needed for ventless operation. There is a mesh cover for the fan, but it is not a filter. Further, the item amazon featured on the hood product page was NOT the one that went with this. I went to the Braun website and still was confused. I finally found the right one: it is this one:<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Broan-41F-Range-Hood-Filter/dp/B000VL060M/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Broan #41F Range Hood Filter.</a>&nbsp;There may be non-Broan brand filters available, but I wanted to be sure I got the right one, so I went with the name brand the first time. This filter is installed with the blue side next to the blade and then put the included mesh screen over that. There is a clip that holds them in place.\n\nThe hood does require hard wiring. I did not have that either!! (Why are these projects always so complicated?!!!) However, there is an item available (and noted on the Broan website) called BR-HCK44 - Range Hood Power Cord Kit.  It is \"for use when hard wiring is not an option and a plug is needed.\" There is also a wall mounting bracket (BR-35) for installations where there is no upper cabinetry. I didn't need the bracket as I had upper cabinetry. I don't think either are available here on amazon, but just google the model number/name and you will find one. They are relatively inexpensive.\n\nI actually had to run my new plug cord down the wall and use the outlet behind the gas stove. If you have a similar problem, here is my solution, maybe it could work for you, too. I was putting in a glass tile backsplash behind the stove anyway, and wanted wood or ceramic border to \"frame\" the small tiles. I figured I could use the recess of one of the trim pieces to hide the cord as it ran down the wall and then simply plug it into my grounded outlet behind my gas stove. (Most gas stoves need an outlet behind them for clocks, electric ignition, timers, oven light, etc.) I couldn't find any ceramic that worked, but instead routed out some trim molding with a dremel, tucked the cord behind that channel, and used the wood to frame my tile backsplash. The wood should be safe, it is no closer than any adjacent cabinetry would be. You can't tell there is a cord there, and it is pretty protected from bumps since it is behind the molding. (I just used little finish nails in case I need access to it in the future. I put them in the wood first so I wouldn't nick the cord.) I did need a short grounded extension, too...the add-on cord was only 3 feet long, but the ugly stuff is behind the stove. It was a tricky problem, and some of you may already have wiring in place, but just in case you run into something like I did, I thought I would post my work-around! Maybe I will post a picture of it one of these days!\n\nOne more tip...if you have to install this by yourself (like I did) it is HARD holding the thing up with one hand (and your head!) and marking the holes for drill/screws with the other! SAVE your packing box, put it on your stove and put the hood on top. It will hold your hood very close to its final position for you so you can make the marks for the screws! I think I added another little amazon box so it sat high enough. OR use the cardboard from the box to make a template for where the drill holes need to be (it is easier to hold cardboard than a range hood!)", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4822, "id": 23375, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 760, "len_tokens": 934, "text": "I second every single thing that the user named \"Janis\" from December 2009 wrote.  I too bought a TDS meter to test the water quality.  I too was completely shocked to find that two separate GE filters removed basically nothing (or if they did remove something, they also must have added something else to the water as well like carbon from the filter, because the TDS reading was hardly less than or the same as the tap water).\n\nBe warned: these filters are not worth the money and very well might not be doing anything to your water!  They're certainly not worth the money!\n\nIf you're interested in the details, here's the long story.  My wife had been telling me for the past couple years that the water from my GE filters tastes horrible and WAY worse than the Nestle bottled water she likes to get.  I told her I thought it tastes fine and that I could taste a slight difference between the tap and the filtered water, and so the GE filters must be doing something right.  I assumed the Nestle water just tasted different than both the tap and filtered water because of their small amount of minerals they \"add for taste.\"\n\nI don't like being wrong, but I'll admit I don't think I've ever been this wrong about anything in my life (and I hope my wife doesn't read this review--just kidding!).  The water here in Arizona is admittedly miserably hard (around 700PPM average from my tap).  The World Health Organization recommends no higher than 600PPM and the EPA recommends no higher than 500PPM.  The filter that had been in my refrigerator for 6 months (and that I'd been drinking from that entire time) read around 650PPM before I replaced the filter.  The new filter I had purchased to replace the old one was apparently defective and came back about 750PPM (that means it was ADDING something to the already terrible and arguably unsafe 700PPM tap water--and this is AFTER filtering through about 5 gallons of water to make sure it was broken in properly)!!!\n\nThe seller was great and filled out the GE manufacturer warranty info for me and I had a new filter is just a couple days at no additional cost.  But this filter too was far short of my expectations.  After breaking it in again with 5 gallons through it, I have not yet gotten a reading below 650PPM.  Often it is in the upper 600's or even low 700's--which is basically at the normal tap water level or just below it by a statistically insignificant amount!  Now the GE filters do seem to help the taste slightly, and I don't have the ability to verify GE's claims about removing certain specific contaminants.  But even if it does get some things out, the overall level of TDS in the water is still higher than the generally considered safe limit, and so what's the point?\n\nHere's the shocker: I had always heard news stories about how your bottled water might not be as safe and pure as you think.  Well, every single bottle that I have tested from the case of Nestle bottled water my wife drinks has come back between 45-75PPM.  No, that's not 450-750, that's literally not a single bottle over 100PPM!  Under 50PPM is considered ideal drinking water, and under 100PPM is still great.  Over 500PPM is dangerous for long-term consumption and if my untrained understanding is correct, it also apparently makes it harder for your body to even get some of the benefits of drinking water in the short term.\n\nMy recommendation if you're concerned about actual water quality rather than just taste is to avoid these GE filters like the plague.  Buy an HM Digital TDS water meter on Amazon here (I got a cheap one for around $15 and it works great).  Test out various types of bottled waters or other cheaper filters, and then pick something long term that you're comfortable with.\n\nAs much as I hate to use up tons of plastic water bottles, the health of my family comes first and since these GE filters are so expensive to begin with it probably won't cost me that much more to just drink bottled water instead.  We'll probably experiment with buying a large bottle of distilled water with a spigot and putting it in the fridge.  But one thing is for sure, after hundreds spent on previous GE filters over the past few years, that's the last $40 filter I bought.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4823, "id": 29818, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 789, "len_tokens": 995, "text": "I didn't want to rate with any stars, because I have a slightly different model, FR464, but\nI think that refers to the color too. However, I can't leave a review without a star rating.\nWe bought an Igloo 4.9 cu ft fridge in black (FR464) from another website.\nIt is very, very close to this model, so I want to share our Igloo experience.\n\nFirst off, the site had the wrong photos of the insides, so I didn't get the freezer I wanted.\nWhile I suppose this was a site issue, it could have also been sent that way from Igloo.\nI don't know, but I only got a 1/2-width freezer instead of one the full width of the fridge.\n\nPros:\nLooks great in the room.\nPlenty of door storage.\nReasonably quiet.\n\nCons:\nDoes not keep things very cold in a warm environment.\nShelves not very adjustable - you are stuck with a shallow shelf at the bottom.\nIt will hold a 16.9 oz bottle of water on its side, and that's it.\nFreezer is not self-defrosting.\n\nIt is very disappointing that a company such as Igloo, who has been in the business\nof keeping things cold for decades, could not do a better job on their small refrigerators.\nWe have ours cranked all the way to the top setting. It isn't in a hot garage - it is in the\nupstairs bedroom. It still can't handle warm temps!\n\nIt has been very warm here this week. While we run the A/C endlessly, this little fridge\ncan't give us a cold drink. All we get are bottles that have a slight, well how should I say this,\na clammy feel to them. You can tell they were in a colder environment than the room, but\nthe drinks themselves (bottled water, 24 oz pepsi's and juice boxes) are NOT cold.\n\nThis has been a major disappointment. I had already thrown the packing material away as it had been\ndoing a pretty good job and I trusted the brand name. Who knew that it was so dependent on the temperature\nin the room as to whether or not you would get a cold drink??\n\nSeriously disappointing, and it will be my LAST Igloo purchase.\n\nUPDATE 08/04/11:\nWell, we've now had this three months.  So far, we've had lots of drinks that were barely colder\nthan room temperature. The freezer door (which was NOT the interior that was pictured with the listing\nwhen we bought it - they had the interiors mixed up with a Haier) had so much frost build-up that the door\nbroke completely off a couple weeks ago. No, we didn't use the freezer - it didn't do anything but freeze that little\nmini tray of ice cubes. The freezer pops (those tubes that look like they are filled with koolaid) don't even\nfreeze in there. I thought hey, maybe with that little freezer section open, the drinks will get colder. Nope!\n\nWe have it cranked all the way to 7, the highest this will go. The drinks are not cold by any means.\nIt does a nice job of keeping things like cheese or fruit, and not too bad on yogurt. However, I wanted\nto have COLD drinks this summer, and I am not getting them. We have bottled water and Pepsi in the fridge.\nNothing in a plastic bottle gets very cold at all. We also have some cans of ginger ale in the can rack.\nBecause of the aluminum, they are a little bit colder than the bottles, but not a lot.\n\nI was putting some more water in there this afternoon, and the inside was so warm and clammy that I checked to\nsee if it stopped working already. I checked the plugs to be sure it was still plugged in, and it was.\nI turned it off for a few minutes to let it rest, then turned it back on. I did not hear a thing. So, I'll check\nit tomorrow to see if it died completely. I don't think it did - I just think it cools very poorly and inefficiently.\n\nI COMPLETELY regret this purchase. Steer clear of the Igloo models.\nThe other brands are a little more (some places, just $30-$50 more), but you might get something that\nactually cools your drinks down. This model can't seem to do it. Big disappointment. This is the most\nexpensive thing I've bought online in a long time, and the joke was on me.\n\nShame on Igloo for making something so shabby. It looks great on the outside, but can't do the job\nyou hire it to do. I didn't need another thing taking up floor space - I needed a bedroom refrigerator.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4824, "id": 30690, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 830, "len_tokens": 975, "text": "This little gem is a workhorse at making ice.\nI unboxed it and set it upright and cleaned parts an inside with vinegar and water and dried it good with paper towels after removing all tape.\nI set it on a filing cabinet I had in my livingroom in my apartment.making sure the fan on the left side had at least 5 inches to blow out the hot air.\nI made sure the rear of the unit had at least 5 inches clearance from wall to pull in air for the compressor cooling.\nThe manual says to let sit for 1 hour upright before plugging it in. The yellow placard that came with it said 2 hours upright.\nI chose to let it sit upright for a min of 2 hours before I plugged it in.\nThen I filled it with distilled water that I had chilled in my fridge to the fill line and turned it on.\nI timed it to see how long before it made ice on medium cubes and it took 10 min after I turned it on to drop ice.\nThen I changed it to large cubes and timed it and it dropped ice in 11 min.\nI experimented with a timer and recorded different actions of the ice maker.\n\nTime to first cubes from turning on -----  10 to 11 min.\nTime to make large cubes-----10 to 11 min per cycle.\nTime it takes to fill up the the ice tray------ approximately 1:45 min to full tray.\nWeight of a full ice tray---- aproximately 2 lbs.\nTime to add water light comes on from max fill line---- around 3 hours\n\nNow that it has been running constantly since I turned it on it produces large cubes in about 10 to 11 min like clockwork.\nIf you set a timer or check your watch you will know that you need to go empty the ice tray in 1:45 min.\nIf you time it you will know that it is out of water in about 3 hours.\nI fill it up to the full line around 8pm and I know it will run cout of water around 11pm and will be quiet for me to sleep.\n.I also discovered that I could put some of the cubes of ice in the water tank and it helped keep the ice area colder and ice lasted longer in the bin.\nI always used water that I had chilled in my fridge to fill it up.and this seems to help it stay cold longer.\n\nI purchased a white waste basket with a touch lid on it at wallmart that would fit and set perfectly in my small chest freezer.\nEvery 1:45 min I check my ice bin and dump the ice into the basket in my freezer. This works out really well for me\nI also learned that when the add water or empty ice red light comes on just add water or empty the ice bin and close the lid and the light will reset automatically in about 3 min. You don't have to do anything but wait 3 min.\n\nI am very happy with this icemaker and it has been running for 3 days constantly and not slowed down a bit.\n\nUpdate  3/21/2016\nMaking Ice With My Edgestar Ice Maker\n\nFillup Water Tank with 101 oz's of distilled water.\nOr add 6 bottles of 16.9 oz of purified water.\nTurn  on ice maker an set cube size.\nI use the large cube size.\nFirst cubes made in approx 10 min.\nIce will be made every 10 min.\nIce bin will be full in approx 2 hours.\nFull ice bin is approx 2lbs of ice.\nTakes approx 11 trays of ice to fill bin (10 min each)\nEmpty ice light will come on in approx 2 hours.\nEmpty water tank light comes on in approx 7 hours.\nFull tank of water makes approx 6 lbs of ice.\n\nThese times are approx but very close to accurate.\n\nI marked a 1 gal distilled water jug with a black marking pen for a fill line after i added 101 oz of water to the jug\nYou can use 6 bottles of 16.9 oz of water if you prefer to fill the tank that way\n\nI purchased a tall 13 gal plastic waste basket with the push button lid to open for ice storage at wallmart.\nI set the basket in my chest freezer and simply empty the ice bin into the waste basket when it is full. This stores a lot of ice for me and I stir or fluff the cubes to loosen them up. I use my chefs round knife sharpener for this task and it works very well.\n\nWhen water or ice light comes on just empty ice or add water and the ice maker will restart in apx. 4 min. Just wait and don't turn the icemaker off and then back on. It is not necessary.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4825, "id": 35097, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 830, "len_tokens": 971, "text": "I bought this rather than pay a plumber to run a new water line to where I have my refrigerator.  When it arrived, my first impression was that it was a lot bigger than I had imagined looking at the photo.  While some have talked about using this for a party or a barbecue, I would not generally think of it as being \"portable\".  I realize that just about anything can be portable if one is willing to haul it around but this just seems kind of big and heavy to be putting away and then taking it out as needed -- for me, it makes more sense as something for which one reserves a section of counter-top, or a small table as its semi-permanent location.  YMMV.\n\nWhen I bought it, I thought that I might be so disappointed in its performance that I'd wind up paying for the ice maker and the plumber but I decided to roll the dice.  I'm glad I did, because frankly, I'm impressed.  This thing makes ice pretty quickly -- it doesn't make a lot of ice quickly but from filling it with room temperature water until the first batch of ice drops (enough, perhaps, to cool one small glass of liquid) only takes something like 10 minutes, and it gets faster with subsequent batches, undoubtedly because it keeps circulating the water over the cooling \"rods\" so the temperature of all of the water drops to near freezing in time. If I fill the ice-maker with water, in a few hours it will produce enough ice to fill my refrigerator's ice-maker bin (I'm not sure exactly how long because I'm not typically near it when it shuts off and it will shut off when its bin is full.  Its bin is smaller than the one in the refrigerator and so, a full fill of water will require emptying the bin at least two or three times.  If one does not empty it, though the compartment is insulated, it is not refrigerated so, eventually the ice will melt, and when enough of it melts that none is touching the \"bin full\" sensor, the ice-maker will start up again and start making more ice.  So, it could run all day (off and on) but unless you empty the bin you'll never have more than one bin of ice.\n\nI am very happy with the unit but there are a few minor cons worth mentioning (but not enough for me to downgrade my rating).\n\nOne negative is the drain plug.  Others have mentioned the fact that it is just a removable plastic plug which could be easily lost.  Another downside to the drain plug, however, is that it is on the side of the machine.  That's probably better than it being on the back, which I would not be surprised to find is true of many such devices, but I think it would have been much more convenient if it had been put on the front.  This thing is big so you are probably going to wind up sticking it on a counter to get it out of the way and unless you have access to the side with the drain plug, you'll be forced to turn the thing around 90 degrees so the drain plug is in front where you can get to it.  It's not so heavy that it is impossible to rotate but it'd sure be a lot easier if it wasn't necessary.\n\nAs some have mentioned, it is a bit noisy, though I don't find the noise all that objectionable even when I am sitting in the same room with it (which isn't usually true).  The main thing I notice about the noise is that I often wonder just what the heck the machine is programmed to do given the erratic operation sequence at times. The basic flow seems to be:\n1. Begin circulating pump\n2. Start the refrigeration unit to cool the circulating water.\n3. Once the ice is ready, stop both the pump and the compressor, and heat the rods so the ice drops into the collection area.\n4. Then a plastic blade pushes the ice into the bin and the whole process starts over.\nIt's a simple, reasonable work flow but in practice, for reasons I can't fathom, the refrigeration unit and/or the pump will start and stop at different points (most commonly when it first starts up) for no discernible reason which just seems weird. I don't know if my unit is malfunctioning or if it was intended to work that way, but it sure seems odd.\n\nOverall it is a fine ice-maker which, though unlike the refrigerator's ice-maker, requires some involvement in the process, but that is just the trade-off for the convenience of the unit working without a water-line hookup being necessary and saving the expense of a larger refrigeration unit which would allow the ice to be stored in the unit itself until needed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4826, "id": 38861, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 736, "len_tokens": 903, "text": "I knew going into this that the directions were not well written, but for the price - I figured I would give it a shot.  Once the fridge is up and running, it is fantastic - I haven't had any issues with it.  I have a keg in there now and it is hovering between 34 and 36 degrees without having to make any adjustments.\n\nI am new to the kegerator game, so I wasn't sure how filling/exchanging CO2 tanks worked.  The fridge comes with a tiny 2.5 lb capacity (5.2 lb tare weight) aluminum CO2 canister, which is cute, but pretty much worthless.  I looked around in my area to find a place that re-fills CO2 tanks, but they all have to send them out to be refilled, and can't refill them at their shops.  That turnaround time is 1-2 days.  Not convenient.  The beer distributor where I bought my keg has 5 lb capacity steel CO2 canisters on hand that they will do exchanges with.  So rather than try to refill the little canister, I put down a deposit on one of their 5 lb canisters, and when its empty I just have to take it back and pay like $11 for a full one again.  No need to send my tank out to be filled and wait to get it back.  I was able to fit the 5 lb capacity steel CO2 tank and a keg in my kegerator without any issues.  You can't use the little included tank strap (because the tank is larger in diameter than the stock tank), but a bungee strap will suffice to hold it in place.\n\nAs far as the unit itself, it did take a bit to set up, as I found myself cross referencing the written directions, the exploded diagrams and what I had in front of me.  If I can offer any advice on assembly it would be this:\n\n1 - Even though they are not well written, read the directions.  There are parts you must remove for some reason.  Not sure if that is because of packing for shipping, or because they are no longer used due to a redesign, but there are things in there that must come out for this unit to function properly.\n\n2 - When in doubt, refer to the exploded diagrams in the directions.  They offer more info than any of the written directions, IMHO.\n\n3 - Anywhere you have metal touching metal, and you have to twist those parts together, there should be a gasket or o-ring involved in that connection.  Most of my gaskets were pre-installed, however, I did need to install a few myself.  No gasket means air leak, which means you lose CO2 and/or pressure.\n\n4 - If you have a \"wobbly tower\", you did not install it properly.  The unit comes with a \"plug\" that you can use if for some reason you want to remove the tap handle from the system - and make it into a normal fridge.  Now this is completely undocumented, but if you look at that plug in its fancy little bag, it has a large gasket packed with it.  You must remove that gasket from the plug and place that gasket between the top side of the fridge and the underside of the tap handle tower before you twist the tap handle tower into place.  If you do not do this, the fit of the tower is loose and wobbly and you will lose cold air through this gap which is probably why most people have cooling issues.  This part of assembly is not easy, and takes some force to get it twisted on correctly with the gasket in there.  You can apply some soap to the gasket to make it easier to turn the handle tower into place.  You will probably fail the first few times, the fridge will move around on its casters and hit you in the legs, and you will say to yourself that I have no idea what I am talking about - there is no way the tower will twist into place with that gasket in there.  Be persistent and get it on there.  Nobody likes a whiner.\n\nAssembly aside, it works great.  And remember, you only ever assemble it once.  So once that is over with, you have a good product at a cheap price that works like a champ.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4827, "id": 44697, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 649, "len_tokens": 928, "text": "Be careful, NewAir will not stand by their products. Our NewAir broke within the first 4 hours of use.  The manufacturer will NOT cover the item under warranty. Just in case you're actually thinking of buying a NewAir product... think twice...\n\nFrom: NewAir Sales <sales@newair.com>\nDate: Fri, Nov 14, 2014 at 11:03 AM\nSubject: Re: Icemaker return\nTo: Susan Ferguson <xxxxx@gwmail.gwu.edu>\n\nHi Susan,\n\nThe manufacturer warranty is void if the unit is purchased by a private seller who does not have our consent to sell our products. This is the same reason why we ask for a copy of your receipt upon requesting warranty claims because if it not from a valid authorized dealer we will not proceed with warranty work. We also list our authorized dealers on our web site for customer use. We stand behind our products, however when an item is purchased from a private seller the purchaser runs the risk of the item being used, open box, refurbished, and or a scratch and dent. Our one year limited manufacturer's warranty is only valid on new items sold by our authorized online dealers. It is unfortunate to see that you are in this situation, however you will need to contact the seller of the item for a replacement or refund.\n\nHave a great day!\n\nMireya\nCustomer Support\nNewAir | 3419 East Chapman Ave. #190 | Orange, CA 92869\nPh: 855-963-9247 Em: sales@newair.com\nFB: facebook.com/NewAirUSA Twitter: @NewAirUSA\nPinterest: pinterest.com/NewAirUSA Instagram: NewAirUSA\nWeb: [...]\n\"Made by awesome\"\n\nOn Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 7:59 PM, Susan Ferguson <xxxxx@gwmail.gwu.edu> wrote:\nHello Mireya-\n\nI'm sorry but I thought the manufacturer warranty was for the manufacturer, NewAir.  Please explain why the warranty is not valid in this case.  I don't see anywhere in the warranty exclusions that the warranty is not valid if not purchased from an authorized dealer.  In addition, a consumer would never know who \"authorized dealers\" are because if a company is selling your product doesn't that implicitly make them authorized to do so?\n\nI sincerely hope that NewAir will reconsider this position and stand by the integrity of their products.  This ice machine was literally used for four hours before failing and it is, quite frankly egregious that your company is negating a warranty that explicitly states it will repair or replace defective materials or workmanship for up to one year.\n\nPlease let me know how I can talk to a dispute department regarding this matter.  I look forward to your response and I will refrain from giving any reviews of your product until this matter is resolved.\n\nThank you,\nSusan Ferguson\n\nOn Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 3:10 PM, NewAir Sales <sales@newair.com> wrote:\nHi Susan,\n\nUnfortunately, the ice maker was not purchased from an authorized dealer. You will need to contact the seller \"Mehadrin\" through Amazon for any existing issues on your unit.\n\nHave a great day!\n\nMireya\nCustomer Support\nNewAir | 3419 East Chapman Ave. #190 | Orange, CA 92869\nPh: 855-963-9247 Em: sales@newair.com\nFB: facebook.com/NewAirUSA Twitter: @NewAirUSA\nPinterest: pinterest.com/NewAirUSA Instagram: NewAirUSA\nWeb: [...]\n\"Made by awesome\"\n\nOn Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:32 PM, Susan Ferguson <xxxxxxxxx@gwmail.gwu.edu> wrote:\nHello-  I received an AI-100S icemaker in March 2014.  I used it one time and within 4 hours the cooling unit had shut down.  My best estimate is that the pump was still working (the water was getting pumped through) but the cooling mechanism was not.  When I plugged the unit back in to try it a few hours later, the cooling mechanism never turned on.\n\nSince this product is still under warranty, I am hoping to acquire a new unit since this particular one has essentially never been used and is obviously faulty in some capacity.\n\nI have attached the receipt for your reference.  It was purchased as a gift through Amazon Marketplace.  Thanks so much and I look forward to your response.\n\nSusan Ferguson", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4828, "id": 44699, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 649, "len_tokens": 928, "text": "Be careful, NewAir will not stand by their products. Our NewAir broke within the first 4 hours of use.  The manufacturer will NOT cover the item under warranty. Just in case you're actually thinking of buying a NewAir product... think twice...\n\nFrom: NewAir Sales <sales@newair.com>\nDate: Fri, Nov 14, 2014 at 11:03 AM\nSubject: Re: Icemaker return\nTo: Susan Ferguson <xxxxx@gwmail.gwu.edu>\n\nHi Susan,\n\nThe manufacturer warranty is void if the unit is purchased by a private seller who does not have our consent to sell our products. This is the same reason why we ask for a copy of your receipt upon requesting warranty claims because if it not from a valid authorized dealer we will not proceed with warranty work. We also list our authorized dealers on our web site for customer use. We stand behind our products, however when an item is purchased from a private seller the purchaser runs the risk of the item being used, open box, refurbished, and or a scratch and dent. Our one year limited manufacturer's warranty is only valid on new items sold by our authorized online dealers. It is unfortunate to see that you are in this situation, however you will need to contact the seller of the item for a replacement or refund.\n\nHave a great day!\n\nMireya\nCustomer Support\nNewAir | 3419 East Chapman Ave. #190 | Orange, CA 92869\nPh: 855-963-9247 Em: sales@newair.com\nFB: facebook.com/NewAirUSA Twitter: @NewAirUSA\nPinterest: pinterest.com/NewAirUSA Instagram: NewAirUSA\nWeb: [...]\n\"Made by awesome\"\n\nOn Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 7:59 PM, Susan Ferguson <xxxxx@gwmail.gwu.edu> wrote:\nHello Mireya-\n\nI'm sorry but I thought the manufacturer warranty was for the manufacturer, NewAir.  Please explain why the warranty is not valid in this case.  I don't see anywhere in the warranty exclusions that the warranty is not valid if not purchased from an authorized dealer.  In addition, a consumer would never know who \"authorized dealers\" are because if a company is selling your product doesn't that implicitly make them authorized to do so?\n\nI sincerely hope that NewAir will reconsider this position and stand by the integrity of their products.  This ice machine was literally used for four hours before failing and it is, quite frankly egregious that your company is negating a warranty that explicitly states it will repair or replace defective materials or workmanship for up to one year.\n\nPlease let me know how I can talk to a dispute department regarding this matter.  I look forward to your response and I will refrain from giving any reviews of your product until this matter is resolved.\n\nThank you,\nSusan Ferguson\n\nOn Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 3:10 PM, NewAir Sales <sales@newair.com> wrote:\nHi Susan,\n\nUnfortunately, the ice maker was not purchased from an authorized dealer. You will need to contact the seller \"Mehadrin\" through Amazon for any existing issues on your unit.\n\nHave a great day!\n\nMireya\nCustomer Support\nNewAir | 3419 East Chapman Ave. #190 | Orange, CA 92869\nPh: 855-963-9247 Em: sales@newair.com\nFB: facebook.com/NewAirUSA Twitter: @NewAirUSA\nPinterest: pinterest.com/NewAirUSA Instagram: NewAirUSA\nWeb: [...]\n\"Made by awesome\"\n\nOn Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:32 PM, Susan Ferguson <xxxxxxxxx@gwmail.gwu.edu> wrote:\nHello-  I received an AI-100S icemaker in March 2014.  I used it one time and within 4 hours the cooling unit had shut down.  My best estimate is that the pump was still working (the water was getting pumped through) but the cooling mechanism was not.  When I plugged the unit back in to try it a few hours later, the cooling mechanism never turned on.\n\nSince this product is still under warranty, I am hoping to acquire a new unit since this particular one has essentially never been used and is obviously faulty in some capacity.\n\nI have attached the receipt for your reference.  It was purchased as a gift through Amazon Marketplace.  Thanks so much and I look forward to your response.\n\nSusan Ferguson", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4829, "id": 49942, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 722, "len_tokens": 903, "text": "This refrigerator ended up being the highlight of my new kitchen.  I was skeptical purcahsing a refrigerator unseen and off of Amazon.  Here is my experience:  I went to three appliance stores.  They all had large refrigerators on the floor for to look at.  None had the size I wanted on the floor for me to touch and see.  Therefore, I would be ordering sight unseen from any source.  Talk to your local appliance folks about their shipping.  Amazon was fast and with Amazon Prime definietly cheaper.  All three local stores would be ordering my fridge and I thought their wait times were a risk to my and keeping my kitchen reno on schedule (time equals money to a contractor).  As for this fridge, I needed the door swing changed.  I did hire a local handyman and it took him about 35 minutes.  The directions were in detailed/detail.  All the parts for changing the door swing were provided.  That was as smooth as it gets.  I needed specific dimensions, and Summit was the only manufacturer I could find that made these.  I am so happy I got the Summit.  I am a short 5'1\" and I can get to everything on the top shelf.  The inside is small.  I thought I would not like this.  However, I found I only eat what I know is there, and with this fridge you can see everthing!  I love, love, love that.  I purchase some clear baskets for the inside, since they only come with two.  For the two drawers that come with the unit, they slide on their bottoms on the base of the refrigerator.  I purchased some super slick tape off Amazon (uselful throughout the house) and made two runners on the bottom of each drawer.  They slide like a dream.  I like this 100 times better than traditional drawers that slide by a rim at the top, because the kind I grew up with were always a trick to take out and wash and then get back into place on the rails provided.  The Summit solution with my slick tape rails on the bottom are a cinch and avoids frustration.  I must say that the feezer does have some ice formations due to humidity.  And, the freezer is not super cold.  That might be operator error.  I should be playing with the temperature settings.  There are no door shelves in the freezer.  I wasn't expecting that, since most freezers have shelves on the door.  However, this being a bottom freezer, I found that I would have hated shelves on the freezer door.  Instead I bought some clear shoe boxes from the dollar storeto corral my little stuff.  Now I just pull the box onto the counter where I can conveniently rumish through the contents.  That works out better.  The refrigerator has four full shelves.  My old fridge only had three, so I think this is a luxury.  I cannot hear my fridge at all.  I live in a small condo, so that was a concern.  Nope, cannot hear it.  To be fair, my kitchen reno has this fridge with cabinets built around it with room for air flow, and maybe that is why there is no noise.  I know it is on because the stuff id cold and the light comes on.  The other thing that I really like is how easily it slides.  I can easilly slide it (remember I am short) even when it is full of contents.  Seeeet!  I've never had that in a fridge.  And it looks great.  And having a cabinet depth fridge makes the kitchen appear bigger.  My friends and neighbors all swear that I changed the footprint of my kitchen (we know the secret was this fridge).  Lastly, this cabinet depth fridge did not go wide to make up for the space, but rather went tall.  That was genious and I am benefiting!  Who wants to conserve space above the fridge?  In a show of hands, not many.  However, any width eats into my counterspace, and I love counterspace.  Having a taller fridge rather than a wider one is awesome.  Believe me when I say that every shelf on this fridge, all the way to the top and back is accessible without having to stand on my toes.  I hightly recommend this fridge", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4830, "id": 50845, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 840, "len_tokens": 995, "text": "We purchased this Bosch dishwasher SHX98M09UC after much Internet research 2 months ago and have used it every day since.\n\nThe dishwasher is light enough to be maneuvred into place by one person and the installation was rather simple with the very complete instructions provided. The operation manual is also clear and the controls easy to understand.\n\nThe design is stunning: all stainless in the front, with a heavy-duty handle and very nice digital display on the facade, although the actual touch controls are hidden on top of the door. The inside is stainless steel also, great at retaining heat. All accessories are high grades and we appreciate the adjustable top rack and removable silverware holders. As with all stainless appliances, it's hard to keep it looking clean very long as it shows finger prints a lot more than painted appliances.\nThe drain is covered with an easy-to-remove filter basket that we have not had to empty yet in 2 months of use (I understand some cheaper dishwashers have small \"garbage-disposal\" instead of a collecting basket, and those can fail or not always work properly as well as being noisy)\n\nIt's energy efficient as I understand the drying is performed by the heat retained in the walls of the washer. So far, we have not observed any difference in our electric bill.\nI believe it also uses small amounts of water (it's a very small water line going to the washer and a few seconds are always enough to pump enough water for the program. Emptying is also very quick)\n\nThe cleanliness of the dishes is good on the Auto Wash program, which we have been using most.\nWith the recommended drying agent, glasses and fine china come out looking very good with no water spot.\nHeavy soiled pots may need a little rinse before the wash, especially with some caked-on food, such as eggs.\nPlastic ware comes out OK from the top rack and, with the limited heat of this dishwasher, is not warped.\n\nThe main reason why we decided on this washer is the noise rating: the quietest we could find in our price range. And on this point, we were just blown away! The first time we turned it on, we had trouble believing it was running! Our kitchen is open to the living room and now, no need to turn up the volume on the TV when the dishwasher is running (big difference from the old Whirlpool we had before). To me, this only is worth the high price tag!\nEven the water emptying into the sink pipes is very quiet.\n\nBefore buying, I had considered the equivalent Kenmore Elite (same price) but the noise rating was 4 dB more (3 dB= double the noise!) and the racks a tad flimsier at first look. The Kenmore Elite had more gadgets such as a \"turbo wash\" nozzle, knife holder and additional washing programs and options. In general, I prefer simpler systems that are reliable and of high quality so I am very happy with this Bosch choice.\n\nI would warmly recommend this appliance if you need a new dishwasher that doesn't rattle and wake you up!\n_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________\nUPDATE 2010: We have been using the dishwasher for nearly a year now and it's as great as the first day we got it.\nThe drain basket rarely needs emptying, the dishes are clean and never damaged (especially plastics), the washer is very easy to operate and most of all, it's so quiet it still surprises us!\nDon't hesitate: this is an excellent buy!\n__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________\nUPDATE 1/27/2012: I am surprised to see that so many reviewers report issues so I wanted to add a couple comments:\nHere, the dishwasher is going strong and it still looks as good as when we received it.\n\nWe have had one hiccup when we moved to Costco's Kirkland liquid dishwasher detergent: the dishes were no longer as clean as expected and it took us a while to figure out that going back to the tablets Bosch recommends for their machine would bring back the perfect performance. In the meantime, another liquid detergent gave us very poor results too (can't remember the brand?): it seems that this dishwasher should be used with tablets only.\nSince going back to the recommended (is it Finish? It's the ones with the red ball in the center) tablets, we couldn't be happier!\n\nI also noticed comments about dishes not being dry. I wanted to mention that we always use a rinse/dry agent (the washer indicates when it runs out). We have been changing brands depending on availability/sales so it must not be as important as using tablets. The only time the dishes are not completely dry is if you open the washer before the end of the program: it's a bit tricky because it sounds like nothing is happening anymore when it is drying; it is totally quiet but the display gives you a drying time.\n\nI wish all could be as satisfied as we are...", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4831, "id": 52719, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 774, "len_tokens": 975, "text": "After about a week with this product, it certainly does what it is supposed to do: produce about 2 full bins of ice in 24 hours ( about 12 pounds).\nIt was shipped to Hawaii, and delivered without a scratch either on the unit or on the box.  Let it sit upright for 24 hours, so the refrigerant could expel any air bubbles.\n\nOnce you uncrate, check the door seal: you can look at all 4 sides and check that the door is not warped.  You can also check by closing the door on a dollar bill and attempting to \"slide\" the bill up and down: you should have moderate to hard resistance along the entire gasket.  If you do not, the unit may stay on excessively to compensate for the cold that is lost due to the door not properly sealing against the inner surface.\n\nInstallation:\nIf you have done some plumbing, but have little to no experience with compression type fittings, call a plumber \"friend\" or a licensed plumber for assistance with installing the water line. I have had experience installing compression fittings.\nYou will have to remove the back grate ( 4 screws-easy) to expose the 1/4\" male thread, which sits at an angle protected by a splash guard.\n\nLooking at some of the other reviews, I went to Home Depot, and purchased more 1/4\" compression rings ( copper) as well as a copper fitting, only to find that those fittings do not fit the provided 1/4\" tubing...well, they \"fit\", but way too tight, so I ended up using the parts provided: sleeve, female fitting and Delrin( plastic) compression ring.  Be SURE to point the NARROW end towards the end of the tube, and DO put your nut and plastic compression sleeve on the tube BEFORE you insert the metal sleeve inside the tube!  I used a small amount of pipe joint compound around the male threads on the ice maker.  Tighten to 5lbs or less torque ( gently), and no leaks occurred.\n I am using RO water from my Premier h2o RO-PURE RO unit, so I installed a push to connect Tee on the 3/8\" plastic line, then a turn off valve, then uses the 1/4\" tubing provided with the ice maker.  Give yourself a generous length: enough to be able to pull the unit OUT of your install space to service, if necessary.\n\nOperation:\nOnce I verified no water leaks, I fired up the unit, and within 3 hours I had enough ice to cover the bottom of the bin. I followed the suggestion to discard that ice, and started from scratch.  12 hours later ( or a bit less) I had a full bin of ice!  I have found that, contrary to some other observations, this unit does NOT vent from the front!  While the compressor is on, you can put your hand to the back of the unit, and feel the fan exhausting air.  It does INTAKE from the front, so definitely keep that clear!  How often it goes on will depend on how many times you open and close the door, as it does with any freezer, refrigerator, or ice maker, and it will determine if it ices up, and how often you will need to defrost ( it has a drain on the lower righthand side of the unit.  You can turn OFF ice production manually by raising the sensor bar, or you can let the accumulated in the bin do that.  The unit temperature knob was set to halfway, and that's where I kept it.  It seems to keep the ice frozen: no water or defrosting from ice stuck together in the bin.\n\nConclusion:\nThe unit works very well, and imho, it is better to use it with filtered or RO water, as it will cut down maintenance over the long run.  I also sprung for the two year additional warranty: cheap for an appliance!\n If your needs are for more than 12 pounds of ice in 24 hours, better be ready to spend north of $1000, and have a floor drain installed!\n\n For two people in a high humidity (Hawaii) environment (No A/C), this unit produces MORE than enough ice in one bin for a day. I have turned off ice production, and the ice ( over two days) has stayed frozen: no sticking, but the ice produced is NOT clear, if that matters to you.\nMost of the issues owners were having I have noticed occurred in units purchased a few years ago.  The \"kit\" comes with a metal(copper?) sleeve, metal (copper?) compression nut and a Delrin ( plastic) compression fitting, and it worked first time. Very Pleased!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4832, "id": 58094, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 822, "len_tokens": 985, "text": "This ice machine does what it promises, for about a year of daily use if you don't maintain it. It's sturdy, starts making ice in about 15 minutes, and can keep up with constant demand if you keep it topped up and store the ice in a location other than its ice basket (it stops producing ice once a certain level is reached to prevent overflowing, but the provided ice basket holds only enough ice to completely fill about 6 cups if you're lucky).  The 3 ice sizes aren't much different from each other, so which one you'll use will end up just being your personal preference. The small option produces ice a little more quickly, but the provided cubes melt faster and aren't very space-efficient. Larger cubes perform much better but are subject to diminishing returns for their production time.\n\nPeel off and degunk the stickers on the inside of the lid ASAP. The moisture from condensation will have them fray and brown eventually, so nip that grossness in the bud back when it's easiest to peel all the stickers off.\n\nI recommend against operating it in direct sunlight, anywhere with poor airflow, or areas with high temperatures. It will have to work harder, consume more electricity, and produce less-robust ice.\n\nThe life of the machine can be extended but that requires a little vigilance and frequent maintenance. For our corner coffee shop, it ran about 10 hours a day, 7 days a week. This is most likely heavier usage than most home situations. Here's what we found:\n\n1. Never turn it on without enough water in the tank. It won't destroy it, but it does add extra wear to the pump. (And the pump ultimately determines its maximum lifetime, see #9.)\n\n2. Make certain to plug it into an outlet with a working ground pin. Any shorts or built up charges will behave unexpectedly and possibly catastrophically if you don't.\n\n3. Use canned air or other computer cleaners to dust the fan grate on the side, and the airflow grate on the back. How often you should do this unfortunately varies wildly depending on placement and your area's dust buildup. This also helps reduce electricity consumption.\n\n4. If you use the machine as frequently as we did, it's a good idea to drain the water at least once a week and let it dry overnight. Prevents mold. If you use it less frequently, attempt to drain it after every session, so it never just sits with water in it.\n\n5. Use distilled water to fill the machine if you can. Keeps the white interior looking nice longer, and prevents mineral buildup.\n\n6. You have to clean the interior. Washing the ice basin out with kitchen cleaner and water is a regular occurrence, but after some months you'll need to unscrew the casing, take off the back shell, and remove the revealed screws under that white rim to get at the rest of the ice-making surfaces. Water buildup, possible mold, collected dust that was washed into crevices, etc.\n\n7. Last and certainly not least, if you are planning to use this for foodservice, or want to make sure that the ice is sanitary, you'll need ice machine-cleaning solution. Regular disinfectants and cleaners are too corrosive for the chilling surfaces. It's easy to find at restaurant supply stores and other specialty outlets, but that means you'll have to find those places first. Most ice machine manuals recommend you run it through about once a month.\n\n8. If the cooling fan breaks or runs slowly, it's just a computer fan that can be replaced by somebody who's comfortable assembling their own PCs. It's also possible to oil the fan bearings with mineral/baby/fan oil by removing the sticker on the center and getting at the rotor.\n\n9. Unfortunately, even if you do all of the above, the life of the machine is ultimately doomed by the water pump I mentioned in item #1. Eventually its bearings are going to give out. It's not impossible to replace, but finding the right pump model may be difficult. You can't really ask a repairman or the manufacturer to help with this if it's past its warranty; the repair cost would exceed buying a new machine. This is about the most serious problem that any non-defective individual machines could have; something is going to die way before the compressor or other refrigeration components could start developing problems. It's just not built to be repaired.\n\nAlso be careful about spilling beverages on it; you'll have to pop open the inner casing of the door to clean up any liquids that seeped through the cracks, otherwise you'll have to stare at stains through the viewing window forever.\n\n* * * * * * * * * * *\n\nAll this sounds dire, I'm sure, but as long as it's alive it gives excellent, dependable service, especially for the price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4833, "id": 61585, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 774, "len_tokens": 975, "text": "After about a week with this product, it certainly does what it is supposed to do: produce about 2 full bins of ice in 24 hours ( about 12 pounds).\nIt was shipped to Hawaii, and delivered without a scratch either on the unit or on the box.  Let it sit upright for 24 hours, so the refrigerant could expel any air bubbles.\n\nOnce you uncrate, check the door seal: you can look at all 4 sides and check that the door is not warped.  You can also check by closing the door on a dollar bill and attempting to \"slide\" the bill up and down: you should have moderate to hard resistance along the entire gasket.  If you do not, the unit may stay on excessively to compensate for the cold that is lost due to the door not properly sealing against the inner surface.\n\nInstallation:\nIf you have done some plumbing, but have little to no experience with compression type fittings, call a plumber \"friend\" or a licensed plumber for assistance with installing the water line. I have had experience installing compression fittings.\nYou will have to remove the back grate ( 4 screws-easy) to expose the 1/4\" male thread, which sits at an angle protected by a splash guard.\n\nLooking at some of the other reviews, I went to Home Depot, and purchased more 1/4\" compression rings ( copper) as well as a copper fitting, only to find that those fittings do not fit the provided 1/4\" tubing...well, they \"fit\", but way too tight, so I ended up using the parts provided: sleeve, female fitting and Delrin( plastic) compression ring.  Be SURE to point the NARROW end towards the end of the tube, and DO put your nut and plastic compression sleeve on the tube BEFORE you insert the metal sleeve inside the tube!  I used a small amount of pipe joint compound around the male threads on the ice maker.  Tighten to 5lbs or less torque ( gently), and no leaks occurred.\n I am using RO water from my Premier h2o RO-PURE RO unit, so I installed a push to connect Tee on the 3/8\" plastic line, then a turn off valve, then uses the 1/4\" tubing provided with the ice maker.  Give yourself a generous length: enough to be able to pull the unit OUT of your install space to service, if necessary.\n\nOperation:\nOnce I verified no water leaks, I fired up the unit, and within 3 hours I had enough ice to cover the bottom of the bin. I followed the suggestion to discard that ice, and started from scratch.  12 hours later ( or a bit less) I had a full bin of ice!  I have found that, contrary to some other observations, this unit does NOT vent from the front!  While the compressor is on, you can put your hand to the back of the unit, and feel the fan exhausting air.  It does INTAKE from the front, so definitely keep that clear!  How often it goes on will depend on how many times you open and close the door, as it does with any freezer, refrigerator, or ice maker, and it will determine if it ices up, and how often you will need to defrost ( it has a drain on the lower righthand side of the unit.  You can turn OFF ice production manually by raising the sensor bar, or you can let the accumulated in the bin do that.  The unit temperature knob was set to halfway, and that's where I kept it.  It seems to keep the ice frozen: no water or defrosting from ice stuck together in the bin.\n\nConclusion:\nThe unit works very well, and imho, it is better to use it with filtered or RO water, as it will cut down maintenance over the long run.  I also sprung for the two year additional warranty: cheap for an appliance!\n If your needs are for more than 12 pounds of ice in 24 hours, better be ready to spend north of $1000, and have a floor drain installed!\n\n For two people in a high humidity (Hawaii) environment (No A/C), this unit produces MORE than enough ice in one bin for a day. I have turned off ice production, and the ice ( over two days) has stayed frozen: no sticking, but the ice produced is NOT clear, if that matters to you.\nMost of the issues owners were having I have noticed occurred in units purchased a few years ago.  The \"kit\" comes with a metal(copper?) sleeve, metal (copper?) compression nut and a Delrin ( plastic) compression fitting, and it worked first time. Very Pleased!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4834, "id": 66960, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 822, "len_tokens": 985, "text": "This ice machine does what it promises, for about a year of daily use if you don't maintain it. It's sturdy, starts making ice in about 15 minutes, and can keep up with constant demand if you keep it topped up and store the ice in a location other than its ice basket (it stops producing ice once a certain level is reached to prevent overflowing, but the provided ice basket holds only enough ice to completely fill about 6 cups if you're lucky).  The 3 ice sizes aren't much different from each other, so which one you'll use will end up just being your personal preference. The small option produces ice a little more quickly, but the provided cubes melt faster and aren't very space-efficient. Larger cubes perform much better but are subject to diminishing returns for their production time.\n\nPeel off and degunk the stickers on the inside of the lid ASAP. The moisture from condensation will have them fray and brown eventually, so nip that grossness in the bud back when it's easiest to peel all the stickers off.\n\nI recommend against operating it in direct sunlight, anywhere with poor airflow, or areas with high temperatures. It will have to work harder, consume more electricity, and produce less-robust ice.\n\nThe life of the machine can be extended but that requires a little vigilance and frequent maintenance. For our corner coffee shop, it ran about 10 hours a day, 7 days a week. This is most likely heavier usage than most home situations. Here's what we found:\n\n1. Never turn it on without enough water in the tank. It won't destroy it, but it does add extra wear to the pump. (And the pump ultimately determines its maximum lifetime, see #9.)\n\n2. Make certain to plug it into an outlet with a working ground pin. Any shorts or built up charges will behave unexpectedly and possibly catastrophically if you don't.\n\n3. Use canned air or other computer cleaners to dust the fan grate on the side, and the airflow grate on the back. How often you should do this unfortunately varies wildly depending on placement and your area's dust buildup. This also helps reduce electricity consumption.\n\n4. If you use the machine as frequently as we did, it's a good idea to drain the water at least once a week and let it dry overnight. Prevents mold. If you use it less frequently, attempt to drain it after every session, so it never just sits with water in it.\n\n5. Use distilled water to fill the machine if you can. Keeps the white interior looking nice longer, and prevents mineral buildup.\n\n6. You have to clean the interior. Washing the ice basin out with kitchen cleaner and water is a regular occurrence, but after some months you'll need to unscrew the casing, take off the back shell, and remove the revealed screws under that white rim to get at the rest of the ice-making surfaces. Water buildup, possible mold, collected dust that was washed into crevices, etc.\n\n7. Last and certainly not least, if you are planning to use this for foodservice, or want to make sure that the ice is sanitary, you'll need ice machine-cleaning solution. Regular disinfectants and cleaners are too corrosive for the chilling surfaces. It's easy to find at restaurant supply stores and other specialty outlets, but that means you'll have to find those places first. Most ice machine manuals recommend you run it through about once a month.\n\n8. If the cooling fan breaks or runs slowly, it's just a computer fan that can be replaced by somebody who's comfortable assembling their own PCs. It's also possible to oil the fan bearings with mineral/baby/fan oil by removing the sticker on the center and getting at the rotor.\n\n9. Unfortunately, even if you do all of the above, the life of the machine is ultimately doomed by the water pump I mentioned in item #1. Eventually its bearings are going to give out. It's not impossible to replace, but finding the right pump model may be difficult. You can't really ask a repairman or the manufacturer to help with this if it's past its warranty; the repair cost would exceed buying a new machine. This is about the most serious problem that any non-defective individual machines could have; something is going to die way before the compressor or other refrigeration components could start developing problems. It's just not built to be repaired.\n\nAlso be careful about spilling beverages on it; you'll have to pop open the inner casing of the door to clean up any liquids that seeped through the cracks, otherwise you'll have to stare at stains through the viewing window forever.\n\n* * * * * * * * * * *\n\nAll this sounds dire, I'm sure, but as long as it's alive it gives excellent, dependable service, especially for the price.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4835, "id": 70859, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 728, "len_tokens": 981, "text": "I have to say I like my L.G. we have had it for almost a year and no problems from HEAVY USE.I Don't scrape pre-rinse or anything and have no problems,I refuse to wash dishes before I wash dishes that is why it is called a dishwasher. Dishwasher's that are made\ntoday are designed to last maybe 5 years if your lucky. We have a Whirlpool at our farm that runs 5 hours and has over-nite cycle that runs for 8 hours it's the new water and power savers.\nThe Kitchenaid by Hobart I grew up with lasted for over 20 years and was still running when Mom and Dad remodeled. That machines would wash and dry everything in a hour. It used about 11 gallons of water on heavy cycle and had a 1/3H.P. wash motor in it,it would push over 60 gallons a minute through the wash arms compared to 6 gallons per wash arm today. The machine also had a full blown disposer in the machine not a blender blade and I remember they had a demo glass machine and it said Hurricane in a box. The sales man would throw olive pits in the machine and uncooked pop corn and you could hear it chew it up and not even phase the machine. These new machines like this L.G. uses a 110 watt pancake motor and changes from top to bottom and it's pretty powerful if you watch the you tube videos,it's better than alot I have seen. Whirlpool uses a 55 watt drain pump motor for the main wash motor and is made my Askol. I have replaced these and it says on there 20 mins on max and 10 mins off..All dishwasher's for the most part alternate top and bottom arms now days because the motor's are so weak. In 2010 there were tons of dishwasher's going to the landfill because they were not cleaning. The Phosphates in the dishwasher detergent were removed and that is what sequesters calcium ions and so many other thing's that make your dishwasher work\nwell. That white stuff that I still see folks talking about is because of there detergent has been redone and it does not work unless you buy these 15 dollar for each wash all in one this and that and still does not work. I was adding S.T.T.P. to my detergent with mixed results. Then I found this detergent [...] it is called Bubble Bandit because it has 8.7% Phosphate's less fillers and it marketed as a commercial detergent but,you can read between the lines and before some tree hugger goes nut's. S.T.T.P. is a water softener/chealting agent and there is TONS more in human waste and the stuff they are using in place of phosphates there is alot of questions of safety. The manufacturers loved it when they dumped phosphates.\n\n  People thought there machine was broke and got new ones. Millions dishwasher's were tossed in the landfill for nothing and were working just fine. I know of 5 relatives of mine who did they did not believe me. I have a 1984 Kitchenaid that was never used sitting in the garage waiting. With these all nite cycles and dishwasher's running all the time how is that going to do anything?They minds well just put a run the machine in the ground button on it. A dishwasher running and running will not last long..The secret is to use that detergent Bubble Bandit you can order 20 LBS for 60$$..There are some states that have banned the sell if you go to there site they can't ship it to you unless your a restaurant or something like that but, you can go on Ebay and get it from a private seller. The smell is gone and I don't use any rinse agent at all. I have done the three layer Cake test in this dishwasher with a full load of un-rinsed,scraped or anything I also dumped in some hard cat food just to give it a extreme test. I set the machine on Normal with Sani rinse and everything was spotless afterwards.. Try that detergent&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Carton-of-Bubble-Bandit-Dishwasher-Detergent-with-Phosphate-Eliminates-white-film-water-spots-in-hard-water-Five-60-oz-Bags-19-lbs-FREE-SHIPPING-AT-CHECKOUT/dp/B007X5F8RK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Carton of Bubble Bandit Dishwasher Detergent with Phosphate. Eliminates white film & water spots in hard water. Five 60 oz Bags (19 lbs)- FREE SHIPPING AT CHECKOUT!</a>", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4836, "id": 70916, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 795, "len_tokens": 966, "text": "Revised:\nMy opinion has changed after owning this range for +8 years.\nWe had some repairs during the warranty period and that was great.\nAfter about 6 years of owning this range we had to do a major repair. The oven suddenly stopped working. The flame would stay on for about 2 minutes and then go out, or would not turn on at all.\nTo fix it, it required to change the thermostat and thermocouples. To get to the components the range needs to be disassembled by a professional. The whole repair cost about 20% of the original cost of the range.\n\nOK...we went with the repair thinking we'd get another good 5-6 years without a problem. Not such luck. About 2 1/2 years after the repair we are having the same problem. I contacted Bertazzoni to see if they'd cover part of the cost of the parts, since they didn't last long (we'll have to cover the cost of labor anyway). No luck.\n\nAt this point, we will have paid almost half the cost of the stove in repairs in less than 9 years.\n\nUnfortunately, as beautiful as this range is, we'll go with a different brand when we replace it.\n\n___________________________________________\n\nWe looked for about a year, comparing ranges, and finally decided on the Bertazzoni. We couldn't be happier.\n\nWhat we love:\n\nStove top - It has 4 different burners, which allow you to simmer, heat fast, use small or large pans, and really regulate the heat. The double burner (one burner inside the other) comes in handy to evenly heat larger pans -- I can hardly wait to try to make some paella.\n\nOne feature we really like is the \"reverse\" regulation with the knobs. If you want really low flame, you crank the knob to where it stops. In most ranges it works the other way around - the low flame is in the lowest position - with gas ranges it is really hard to find the precise spot between having a low flame, and having no flame. The way the Bertazzoni is designed, your burner is on and you are sure you have it at the lowest setting.\n\nIt is well built, and sturdy. The guy that installed it thought it was a Viking from the weight and way it feels -- but it is about 1/3 of the price of a Viking.\n\nIt has a 2 year warranty. We needed some adjustments and the lighting mechanism of two burners was failing a few weeks after it was delivered. I called Bertazzoni - the parts arrived in a few days, and the technician was here the day after the parts arrived. Excellent customer service.\n\nNo digital controls!!! When looking for ranges, we found most of them have digital controls. I had heard that some of these ranges (especially in the $1000-$3000 range) have very noisy fans. After talking to a few sales people, I found out that since the digital controls are not supposed to be exposed to the heat, these ranges need an additional cooling/fan element to keep the digital controls from getting too hot. At that point I was on a mission to find a good range with manual knobs.\n\nIt has a beautiful design! We didn't buy it for the looks, but it is certainly a bonus.\n\nFEATURES WE LIKE, BUT MAY NOT BE FOR EVERYONE\nThe oven is relatively small, as ovens go. It is wide, but not very tall. You can fit 2 pyrex with no problem, but you probably wouldn't be able to fit a turkey and a pyrex. Since we seldomly need that big of a volume in an oven, we solved the problem by buying a convection-microwave for under $300 for the rare occassions when we need more oven volume.\n\nOn the positive, since it is a smaller oven, it takes less energy to heat up, saving up on gas usage.\n\nWhen the oven is on, the sound of the fan is noticeable. We don't mind it, but it is something you may want to consider.\n\nSOME LIMITATIONS\nThe minimum theoretical temperature of the oven is 275 degrees - so if you often cook or bake dishes that require much lower temperature, this may not be the oven for you. We recently made some dishes that required the oven to be 250 degrees. We found we could achieve this by having the oven at the lowest setting, and setting the trays in the top oven shelf.\n\nSince the controls are not digital (see above), it takes a little getting used to the oven knob to get the precise temperature control. We have a $5 oven thermometer, and that works very well.\n\nFor the price and the quality, we couldn't be happier.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4837, "id": 75852, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 675, "len_tokens": 936, "text": "IN SHORT:  A tremendous improvement over my 5-year old LaCrosse indoor/outdoor temperature/humidity solar-powered station that finally, mercifully, died.\n\nDESCRIPTION\n> Both the sender and the receiver are powered by 2 ordinary AA batteries each, which are easy to replace.\n> No complicated setup.  No on/off switch.  No clock to set.  No mode buttons.  No synchronization procedure.  Just insert the batteries in both units and they start working.\n> Easy to read at a glance. Uncluttered display.  The outdoor temperature and humidity, and the indoor temperature and humidity (on the bottom in smaller lettering) are all displayed all the time..\n> The only buttons are a  Fahrenheit/Centigrade selector switch; a maximum button, and a minimum button.  You can optionally use the minimum/maximum buttons to check the highest and lowest temperature and humidity, inside and out, since you last pushed the button.  Just release the button and the display returns to the current readings.\n> Small arrows tell you whether the temperature/humidity is rising, falling, or remaining constant.\n> The receiver (the display unit) sits at a slight angle (for optimal viewing) in a removable stand.  The receiver unit also has a cutout on the back which allows it to be mounted on a nail-head or screw-head on the wall if you like---albeit you have to supply the nail or screw.  You can carry it from room to room if you want.\n> You can hang the sender unit from a hook or a string from the \"handle\" on top.  The also sender has a cutout on the back which allows it to be mounted on a nail-head or screw-head if you like---albeit you have to supply the nail or screw.  It might take a bit of thought, effort, and your own hardware to mount it on a masonry wall.  It will also stand up, or lie, on a table, etc.\n> The sending unit has a good range.  I placed on a table in my screened patio, about 50' from the reciever.  You could use it to monitor the temperature in another section of a large house, in your attic or basement, or in a neighboring building---such as a detached garage.\n\nCAVEATS\n> The display is LCD, and easy to read, but unlit.  You need some light in order to read it.\n> Since there is no clock, it doesn't tell you when the highs or lows occurred.\n> The suggestion in the instruction manual to hang the sender unit by a string from a tree branch sounds like a very poor idea to me.  If it swings around violently, it could be damaged by impact.  Strings rot.\n> The instruction manual claims that the sender unit is waterproof.  NOT so.  Maybe the electronics are weather resistant, but the battery compartment is not.  The sender is most likely to die by the battery contacts corroding.  I suggest placing the sender unit in a location that is protected from directly sunlight, wind, rain, and high humidity.  I suggest smearing the battery and battery compartment contacts with silicon grease to protect them&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease-3-oz-Tube/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube</a>\n> Finding a good place for the sender unit is by far the most difficult part of the installation procedure.  Since the range is good, don't overlook the possibility of placing it inside an out-building such as a gazebo or tool shed.  But don't protect it too much, because enclosed areas can become humid, which isn't good for electronics.  The location should be \"airy\".\n> You can use any type of AA batteries.  I suggest cheap ordinary alkalines.  In very cold weather situations, you might want to put lithium batteries in the sender unit.  Yeh, you can probably use rechargeables if you really want to, but doing so is rather pointless---even the best rechargeable will simply loose their charge in about 30 days---save your rechargeables for high-drain electronics, such as radios and toys.\n\n> Click on Stoney just below the product title to see my other reviews, or leave a comment to ask a question.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4838, "id": 76777, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 677, "len_tokens": 948, "text": "I moved in to a new home recently and found that the existing disposer was in need of replacement.  Instead of replacing just the disposer, I decided to go ahead and completely replace the entire sink, including the faucet, flanges, and disposer.  I decided to purchase most of these items on Amazon due to the excellent prices and free Prime shipping.  However, I was troubled by the lack of documentation and details regarding the compatibility of the different parts.  I'm writing this review along with a review of the disposer I purchased in an effort to fill in these gaps for future purchasers.\n\nFor the disposer, I went with the&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Waste-King-L-1001-Legend-Series-1-2-HP-Continuous-Feed-Operation-Waste-Disposer/dp/B000LNIK6C/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Waste King L-1001 Legend Series 1/2 HP Continuous Feed Operation Waste Disposer</a>; unfortunately, the flange that comes with the disposer has a highly reflective chrome finish which will not be suitable if you want to coordinate with faucet hardware that isn't also chrome.  Though there are many custom flanges to choose from, the Waste King will not be compatible with most of them since it utilizes the EZ Mount system for attaching the disposer to the sink.  This assembly is not compatible with the majority of the custom finish disposer flanges found on Amazon and in most other stores; most are intended for Insinkerator (ISE) disposers.\n\nThere is an adapter kit available (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Waste-King-3101-ISE-Adapter-Kit/dp/B000HE6ECM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Waste King 3101 ISE Adapter Kit</a>), but I would highly recommend only using this adapter if you are replacing an existing ISE disposer and want to use the hardware already attached to your sink; if you are starting from scratch you would still need to purchace the ISE mounting hardware in addition to the adapter.\n\nI should also note that there are some Waste King branded flanges for sale, but the only ones I found that are compatible with the EZ Mount system have plastic finishes, like white, biscuit, etc.  Waste King flanges that offer a metal finish are only for Waste King disposers that use the very different 3-bolt mounting system, which are a bit more expensive than the EZ Mount variety.\n\nIf you plan to start from scratch with all new components as I did, using an EZ Mount disposer along with a suitable disposer flange like the Waste Maid will simplify your installation and help you avoid headaches and delays caused by ordering incompatible parts.  If you insist on a certain brand of disposer flange you will have to get the flange, ISE mounting hardware, and the adapter.  This should work, but at a much higher cost than the Waste Maid flange alone.\n\nAs far as the flange itself is concerned, I was impressed with the quality of its manufacture; it's quite heavy and solid, unlike some of the ISE flanges I've handled.  The machining of the threads is very smooth and I had no trouble screwing the disposer's mounting hardware onto the flange during installation.  So far the finish seems to be holding up well, but it should be expected that a disposer flange will take some abuse and may not look perfect forever; however, in this case there isn't much of a finish to worry about anyway, so I expect it will look nice for quite some time.\n\nMy only complaint is that the stopper had some minor nicks and dings, primarily on the \"handle\" portion; it looks as if it may have been dropped on a concrete floor.  Also, it does not seem to sit very tightly in the flange; it doesn't leak or anything, but it seems to fit so precisely that degradation in the rubber seal could cause a leak in the future.  These are very minor issues and aren't really noticeable, but they do make it seem like the stopper was used instead of new; that being said, I do not feel that they should reduce this product's rating.\n\nIn conclusion, I would not hesitate to buy this flange again.  If you're installing a new EZ Mount disposer and need a custom flange, this is the way to go.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4839, "id": 84561, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 803, "len_tokens": 996, "text": "My husband and I purchased this LG dishwasher (model # LDF7932ST), in December 2011 for over $900.  I have several elements I feel that are definite \"pros.\"  The Lo-Decibel(tm) feature was great; it was so quiet you didn't even know the machine was on.  The Trusteam(tm) feature I did like, as it uses steam to dry the dishes, as opposed to a heating element on the bottom.  That eliminates accidentally melted plastic dishes that fall through.  Dishes usually came out very clean and dry, as long as rinse-aid was in the dispenser and liquid detergent was used.\n  Next, I have more than several elements that I qualify as definite \"cons\" to this machine and to LG as well.  On the exterior, that beautiful stainless steel that cost us an extra $200, was very easily damaged.  If not quickly dried up, even a drop of water that had dripped down the front, left a permanent light-gray streak; it became a rather large pain to have to keep up with the high-maintenance exterior.  The racks inside, as well as the utensil's holder, were all made of flimsy plastic and broke quite easily.  Within six months my silverware were falling through holes the size of quarters, created by broken plastic pieces, and caused permanent scratches on the bottom of the interior.  Signalight(tm), by the way, is nothing to get excited about; it is merely a little blue light that illuminates for a brief period after the machine completed the cycle.  The biggest downfalls to this machine had to be its continued mechanical failures.  In fact, the mechanical malfunctions proved to be the only true aspect of this dishwasher that I could rely on.\n  After only two months of ownership, the dishwasher would no longer work.  A piece from the inside of the motor area broke off and jammed it up.  At the six month mark the machine would not drain.  On the bright side, the one year manufacturer's warranty covered those two repairs.  On the dark side, repairs took weeks to complete while waiting for parts, and dealing with the customer service department was a nightmare.  Most of the times I called, the representatives had very strong accents; they could not understand what I was saying, and vice-versa.  Other times the representatives wanted me to take the machine apart myself and call them back after doing so.  Every time, however, my call to their help line resulted in LG telling me they needed to send a technician out for an \"official\" diagnosis.  These diagnoses by the way, cost $95 each and every time a technician arrives at your door once you are out of the warranty.  That cost does not even cover any repairs.\nOur luck ran out really ran out when seven months later, while out at a party, the dishwasher's drain line burst and flooded our kitchen.  The warranty expired one month earlier, so we paid the $95 diagnosis fee, plus $105 for a new drain line, to Jorge the LG technician, whom we knew on a first name basis by that point.  LG offered no compensation whatsoever, for damage that my cabinets and walls sustained from the water the drain line had slowly leaked before it ultimately ruptured.  Finally, two short months after the drain line debacle, the demise of our not-so-fabulous dishwasher had finally come.  Once again Jorge paid us a visit, and this time informed us that the capacitor burned out and would cost nearly $350 to repair.  Devastated and furious, we threw in towel and refused to sink even one more penny into the mechanical money pit.  Consequently, we replaced our very expensive LG brand dishwasher with a used Maytag purchased for $50 at a yard sale. Until this very day, the fifty dollar used dishwasher remains problem free.\nI cannot really put into words the disgust and disappointment I feel for my LG brand dishwasher and really for the LG company itself.  I would like to say that it was a fluke and we received a defective machine, but we had also purchased a matching stainless steel, over the counter LG microwave for $450 and a French door LG refrigerator for $2900.  Only one of which still works and both of which suffered multiple, costly mechanical malfunctions.  We put our faith and almost $5000 of our hard earned money into LG kitchen appliances, and all were complete disappointments.\n  What good were all those luxuriously expensive features on my LG dishwasher, when the machine itself could not even function properly and even damaged my home?  I tell everyone I know who is looking to buy appliances, \"Do not buy LG.\"  If you do, buy them at your own risk.  My husband came up with his own slogan for our dishwasher and this company, \"Life sucks with LG.\"", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4840, "id": 98425, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 768, "len_tokens": 954, "text": "UPDATE: As of 8/11, I would rate this unit at 1 Star (Can't change on edit function of review)\nOriginal refrigerator was just replaced with the newly designed icemaker model due to the issues with the original icemaker. Electrolux has been good, but this refrigerator's icemaker has really been a huge problem. I would look for other lines before Electrolux, at least until they can improve thier designs and engineering.\n\nOriginal review with some edits:\nWe have been on a journey to find a great, stylish and functional counter depth refrigerator. We are replacing a perfectly fine Kitchen Aid side by side that we put in a second home. First, we chose a Samsung side by side, but were not satisfied with it's refrigerator temperature. We set it at 34, but it never seemed cold enough. Milk was never \"ice cold\" as we were accustomed to. We started monitoring the temperatures, and it was typically around 38-43 degrees. Samsung was unable to remedy this issue, even after sending out a new replacement. Then we chose a GE Profile model, but it was a similar scenario, with wide temperature swings between the setting of 34, and 44 degrees, so a return of the GE was in order after service was unable to remedy it's large temperature swings.\n\nNow, onto the Electrolux. This was a favorite from the start when we were shopping, but we were scared off by some reviews. We decided to go for it anyway, and are pleased with that decision, so far. However, the first one delivered did not cool at all. A service tech was dispatched immediately, and he found that there was a broken line from the compressor, due to damage in shipping, no fault of the unit, and all the refrigerant had escaped. The dealer brought the GE back until another Electrolux could be ordered and delivered.\n\nUpon recieving the second Electrolux, it is performing nicely. Internal temperature is as stated on the Wave Touch Panel at 34 and -4 degrees for the freezer (which, by the way, you can set to show the refrigerator and freezer temps at all times). The units appearance is of good quality, being stainless steel on all sides, sturdy handles, and a modern appearance with Wave Touch Controls, which are easy to use. The doors are simple to align or adjust if needed.\n\nThe interior of this unit is 22.6 cu/ft, so as counter depth goes, it is decent. With edgeless glass shelves, ball bearing glides on all drawers, a large temperature controlled drawer with digital programmed settings, 2 good sized slide out bins, and exceptionaly well done LED lighting, this unit's interior is impressive.\n\nWe especially like the temperature controlled drawer, which can be adjusted from 28 to 40+ degrees. The drawer is large enough for party platters, and can keep fresh meats at near freezing, or beer can be kept at a very nice 28 degrees, or wines at a favorite selected temperature. The ice maker does take up a fair amount of space, but for ice and water in the door, it is a worth while sacrifice.\n\nThe icemaker has had some negative reviews, but so far ours is fine. The cubes are rounded, with a divit. I'm not sure why this is considered \"Drink Friendly\", but they are nice. One issue is that the cubes seem to come out with some vengence. However, by simply putting your glass or ice bucket close to the dispensing chute...problem solved. We have seen no melted ice puddles in the catch basin. Water dispensing is simple, and functional. We have only had this unit for a few days, so I can't comment on ice production quantity, but it is supposed to be better than most, per Electrolux specifications.\n\nThe freezer has 2 deep slide out bins, and 1 shallow one, with dividers and smooth ball bearing slides. One of our wire dividers does not stay in place, but that is no big issue at all. Space is good, and well utilized. Lighting in the freezer is excellent.\n\nIf I listen closely, I can hear the unit running, but sound is not obtrusive or noticably louder than any of the other units we have had recently. I would say it is quiet.\n\nPros: Operates at accurate temperatures set, huge slide out temperature controlled drawer, Exceptionally well done LED lighting and appearance, Wave Touch Controlls, functional use of space. Looks and feels high quality. We finally have really cold milk again.\n\nCons: High end of price scale, Ice maker takes up some refrigerator space, and some door storage.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4841, "id": 100852, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 773, "len_tokens": 982, "text": "EDITED to add comments after 6 months of use:\n\nPeople continue to curse at the stupid design of the water dispenser, and continue to spill water all over the place.  Reducing the star rating from original 3 stars to 2.  I would NOT recommend this unit, especially for the asking price.  If you can find one on clearance, maybe, but again, there is NOTHING special about this that qualifies it to be priced above $1K imo.\n\nONE year warranty people...that should tell you something right there.\n\n**********\n\nReplaced a GE fridge with this model:\n\nDue to my space limitations, I narrowed it down to the similar Kitchenaid model (kind of wish I had gone for this), and the Whirlpool at the same level.  Bought online sight unseen fwiw.\n\nHonestly, I don't see why the \"PROFESSIONAL\" designation on this.  Nothing about the quality makes me think it's anything other than a very average refrigerator.  Cheap, plastic bins just like every other average unit I have seen.\n\nPROS:\n- Best thing about this is the good looking AND practical stainless steel finish.  It's great really - NO smudging (except on the handles) AND it's magnetic (something rare in SS models).\n\n- \"theater\" lighting...when you open the doors at night, supposedly it doesn't blind you immediately, but rather gradually, as the lights ramp up\n\n- Has a changeable air filter.  I like this...no more arm and hammer boxes taking up space and tipping over.  OTOH, another filter to replace.\n\n- External, digital temp controls for both sides.  I like the idea of this...but in reality, how often are you going to be changing the temperature?  If you have to change it a lot, maybe there is a problem with the thermostat?\n\n- this is a small thing, but I really like that some of the side compartments in the fridge have a non slip surface.  Very nice touch.  Instead of your jars of jelly sliding around and clanking into each other (except when the door closes, see below), things stay nicely in place.\n\nCONS:\n- OMG THE DOOR SLAM.  This one kills me, and for such a small thing, makes such a big negative impression because it's EVERY time you deal with the fridge.  When you close the door, there is NO \"cushion\" for lack of a better or more technical word.  On my very low end GE (and most every fridge out there for that matter), there is a built in governor I guess that slows the speed of the door so it doesn't just slam closed.  I think what happens is that the resistance is just greater as you approach the closed position.  Whatever that feature is, WP for some reason decided to leave it out on this fridge (maybe none of theirs have this, no idea).  It is sooo annoying.  We have gotten used to it more or less, and most of the time we carefully and slowly close the door so it doesn't rattle the whole kitchen.  But anybody else (who of course is also used to the normal, slower fridge door behavior) closing the fridge door is always startled and usually jumps when the door SLAMS shut with a huge rattle.  This is just piss poor design imo, and is a big negative.  I am sure we will eventually get used to it, but shouldn't have to.\n\n- another horrible, non standard design implementation re: water dispener.  Unless you have an extremely wide cup (think wide coffee mug or even soup bowl/mug, you can't just push your glass into the unit expecting water to hit.  Nooooo.  Because of the design, any normal rim sized glass will be overshot by the water squirter, so you have to wrap your hand around the glass and then insert, to make up for the space.  Never seen another fridge with this problem, and like the door slam issue, because it's so unusual, every time someone not living in our house goes for water, they end up getting it all over them and the floor.  That tells you right there it's not just me being picky.  I swear they designed the thing and never actually tested it in a real live situation.  Inexcusable imo.\n\nBecause these two things have relatively easy workarounds, I am not going to go into below average territory.  I doubt there is a perfect fridge out there, but I do wish I had gone for the Kitchenaid.  I wonder if their engineers made similar mistakes.\n\n3 stars, barely, and that is assuming that this unit will last many years w/o probs.\n\nIMO, look at the Kitchenaid before buying this one.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4842, "id": 103827, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 805, "len_tokens": 986, "text": "We did a lot of research 15 months ago and selected this Bosch dishwasher.  Consumer reports rated it high and the key drawbacks we saw were the smaller interior size compared to our previous dishwashers and the lack of a food \"disposal\" system.  Many of the high efficiency washers have a filter basket that has to be removed periodically and cleaned out.  That is the case with this one.\n\nShortly after our first use with the dishwasher we were smelling a lingering egg smell on the glassware.  At first it was lingering and then it became strong and gross - like rotten eggs.  We called Bosch.  They told us to change detergents.  Same problem.  Talked to Bosch - they said we needed to turn our water heater temp up.  Same problem.  Talked to Bosch - we needed to remount the drain hose an extra 6 inches higher than the instructions stated.  Same problem.  Talked to Bosch - we should rinse our dishes better (what?!!). Same problem. Talked to Bosch - our water must be too hard... Huh? We never had that problem before.  Same problem.  Bosch said we cook with too much oil.  $%@$^@$%@$????  Every time we called to get help they told us some other goofy thing to blame something other than their dishwasher.  The one solution we found was to put white vinegar in the washer when it was in the middle of the cycle - that made things liveable.  We would go through a gallon of white vinegar every two weeks.\n\nSomething we saw all the time was a gross, gooey sludge developed on the filter and the water that was left in the bottom of the dishwasher was dirty (high efficiency units leave a little water in the bottom under the cover).  I would clean gooey yellow-orange-brown-sludge-butter-muck off the filter 3 times each week.  Gross.  No wonder the dishes smelled.\n\nAbout 6 months into the ordeal (mind you, we are eating on dishes that smell awful but appear clean) we call Bosch and tell them we have had it and we request that they replace the dishwasher.  We have a one year warranty, right, and clearly there is some type of defect with this dishwasher.  What did Bosch say?  \"Oh, I am sorry to hear of your problem, but we don't have any record of you having any concerns with this dishwasher.\"  What?!!!  All the calls from our home, that they logged our home number with and provided us a log number - yet none of that was in their system.  So what now?  We need to start a process with a service call to get things in order.  Great! In my mind, another delay tactic.\n\nFirst service call:  The repair man finds no problems - mechanically everything works (yep, we know).  It took us 2 months to convince the service person there was a problem.  At 10 months we were getting concerned that we were going to be stuck with this awful dishwasher so we called the reputable dealer where we purchased it.  They told us \"good luck, Bosch will never replace it.\"  They were nice about it, but it was clear that others have had issues with Bosch and the company doesn't take care of their appliances under warranty.\n\nThe good news - we did buy an extended warranty at the time of purchase.  On the day the extended warranty kicked in we started a 3 month process to show the dishwasher was defective/unfixable.  The repairman was helpful and within 3 visits noted that the unit was unrepairable.  We received a check to replace the unit.  We purchased and installed an LG dishwasher and all is well.  Smell is gone, dishes are clean.  The dishwasher has more space and has a soft food disposer (no more filter cleaning).  Turns out it wasn't my water heater or hard water or too much oil or too little rinsing or the detergent....  All that stuff is the same and the LG cleans well and doesn't leave a rotten egg smell on the dishes.\n\nThe reason I bought the LG washer was I read a review where a guy talked about researching appliance companies from the standpoint of how they treat their customers after the sale.  His research showed that LG treats their product owners great.  I researched the LG web site and found a lot of great resources and confirmed several of the points this gentlemen made.  Then I contrasted that to the ridiculous way Bosch treated my family and me.\n\nIn a nutshell - the Bosch dishwasher I purchased was defective and the bigger issue was Bosch as a company treated me and my family horribly as we were trying to fix and resolve the problem.  My experience causes me to stay well clear of Bosch appliances.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4843, "id": 108330, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 808, "len_tokens": 999, "text": "I am regretting that I bought this Bosch B26FT70 French door refrigerator with bottom freezer from a non-amazon.com seller (appliancesconnection.com).  This expensive appliance started making a loud humming noise intermittently, within 1 week after installation.  When I called the warranty service the tech takes a whole 8 days to arrive just to tell me that he cannot hear anything wrong with the fridge and leaves.  Called back for warranty service and was told that a specialist would look at it.  Meanwhile the steel trim on the large shelve came off due to shoddy manufacturing.\nBy now it is almost another week later and the specialist comes in and validates that the evaporator motor is defective.  He is going to order the part and put it in when it arrives.  And he said that the shelf has to be replaced because of the trim problem.\nThis whole experience tells me that Bosch is just resting on its laurels.  Their product is simply shoddy with multiple problems.  Bosch's service is slow and unresponsive.  They should not be expecting a customer of a premium appliance, specially a refrigerator that is so essential for today's household, to wait for weeks for warranty repairs on a brand new appliance.\nI will update this and let you know how long it finally took to get these issues resolved.\nMy advice is to AVOID, AVOID, AVOID this shoddy product.  My old inexpensive GE worked better for years, just threw it out only because we wanted matching appliances.\n\nUpdate on Feb 18, 2013,\n*********************\nThe saga continues, as per my previous review, this refrigerator started failing almost from the get-go.\n\nAfter numerous problems with loud rattles and falling off trim continued, now the fridge stopped cooling and is completely dead. I used to be a fan of Bosch, but I honestly cannot recommend this \"top of the line\" fridge to even my worst enemy.\n\nBosch's service is another story, this fridge spoiled my food thrice due to misdiagnosis and refusal to take care of the issue. The fridge is currently non-operational for over a week. It takes several days for Bosch's service reps to even come and misdiagnose the issue. These so called experts have repeatedly misdiagnosed the problems. At this point I have an expensive boat anchor in my kitchen.\n\nFeel free to buy it if you can afford to live without your primary fridge for weeks at a time. I used to be a fan of Bosch, but I honestly cannot recommend this \"top of the line\" fridge to even my worst enemy.\n\nIt takes several days for Bosch's service reps to even come and diagnose the issue. These so called experts have repeatedly misdiagnosed the problems. At this point I have an expensive boat anchor in my kitchen.\n\nBosch's service is another story, this fridge spoiled my food thrice due to misdiagnosis and refusal to take care of the issue. The fridge is currently non-operational for over a week.\n\nFeel free to buy it if you can afford to live without your primary fridge for weeks at a time.\n\nUpdate on June 8, 2013\n************************\n\nThe nightmare continues.  This expensive mistake stopped working again.  Our first clue to a problem was the big puddle of water in the refrigerator trays and shelves.  The puddles were from the melting ice from the ice maker.  We soon realized that the refrigerator is not cooling and not operational.  Another $150 of spilt food, thanks to Bosch!\n Called Bosch service again and went through the rigmarole of providing a dated receipt for the 3rd time -based on the number of times I had to call Bosch, I think they should know me and my fridge on a first name basis by now!\nThe Bosch agent gave the contact information of local Bosch authorized service companies.  Frankly I am dreading this call to the local service companies based on my previous experience with these guys.  In my opinion the technicians are incompetent and unprofessional since it takes them multiple attempts to identify the real problem all the while I am sitting without a fridge and forced to pay high bills for restaurant food.  Also, in my previous attempt to repair the fridge, the tech neglected to order the necessary part making us sit with this boat anchor for an additional few days.\nDuring my previous repair incident in Feb 2013, I asked Bosch to replace or refund the cost of the fridge since.  Bosch was very unsympathetic to my request.  Today,  I have requested Bosch to replace my dead fridge again and I am waiting to hear from them.  Question for the consumer lawyers amongst you:  I feel cheated by Bosch, what are my options, legal and otherwise?\n\nUpdate on June 15, 2013\n************************\n\nWeek 2 and the fridge still not fixed. Bosch does not even bother!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4844, "id": 108843, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 811, "len_tokens": 968, "text": "I've had this fridge for about two weeks now and it's been really great. I bought it for my office and mostly to prevent me from eating out, so I had a few criteria. First, it had to be fairly small footprint, but large enough to store a good amount of real food, such as leftovers, some fruit & veg, and materials to make snacks with such as PB&J. Second, it had to have a real compressor, one that will cool well below the ambient temperature as the office building gets quite warm in the summer and I really hate when food goes bad. Third, I didn't want the unit to give up a bunch of space to a can delivery system, since I don't drink usually have canned drinks around. So, that's how I ended up at the SPT, it's the only one I found that fits all these criteria. I'd never heard of SPT before buying this fridge and quite honestly, if it had the same features as all the other fridges I'd seen (researched for two weeks), I probably wouldn't have bought it. However, given that it had everything I was looking for, I decided to take a chance and I'm glad I did.\n\nFirst, the aesthetics; it's a vertical rectangular shape, modestly attractive looking, basically it looks like a small black fridge with a stainless door. I was a bit surprised at the size, it's quite a bit taller than I was expecting and the black does makes it look a little monolithic. The unit actually looks bigger than it really is, I was shocked to find that it fits nicely under my desk. The Stainless Steel finish on the door isn't quite as polished as the vastly more expensive full-size GE fridge I've got at home, but I was pleasantly surprised at how good it looked, especially considering the price! This unit is solidly built and is surprisingly lightweight, which was great for moving it around the first day, figuring out where it should go. The door, as shipped, opens on the left, but it looked like a fairly simple job to switch sides (haven't needed to) and SPT included extra plastic inserts for covering up the holes should this be required, a nice touch. Door was protected with plastic film and all three shelves and the ice maker were taped down to prevent them sliding around.\n\nOn to functionality; the fridge works! It got the four iced teas I put in it ice cold within only a few hours of being plugged in and I've got the unit set at 4, the factory preset median setting and it works great. Stuff down low in the fridge was kept nicely cold, the ham I put up near the icemaker had frost in the package, but the meat wasn't frozen. Note to self, meat goes lower in the fridge. The lower door shelf holds four Honest Tea bottles, but the wire holder swings out to hold bigger items. The top door shelf is a little shorter and has a fixed bar, so PB & J go up there. Inside shelves are made of white plastic-coated wire and well spaced. The freezer holds at least a trio of standard sized juice boxes; it's wide, but not very tall, so low items work best. One other extremely cool thing is, the energy consumption rating for this fridge is actually below the lowest range on the chart. This makes it extremely efficient, which isn't a factor for me, but I can see this being a plus for someone being challenged about its power consumption. Given how well it keeps my food cold, it must be very well insulated to achieve such low consumption.\n\nThings of note:\n1) This unit only has one leveling foot, at the front right corner. This is probably not a problem for most people, but my office floor is as flat as a Ruffles potato chip, so levelling the fridge required shims under the front left foot.\n2) Power cord is only about 5Ft long, once again, not a problem in most offices, but I would really have liked a longer one. Extension cord to the rescue.\n3) Unit isn't silent, but it's not loud either. Some people have complained about other fridges being loud, I don't find this one to be unpleasant, it's like low-level white noise in the background. If I get in early, I can hear the fridge, but once the office wakes up, it's inaudible.\n4) Unit came very well packed in an enormous box, strapped and taped closed. I was impressed, but I did have to lie the fridge on its side to get it out of the box.\n5) This hasn't been a problem, but the manual says that should the fridge lose power, it won't come back on automatically.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4845, "id": 111403, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 768, "len_tokens": 942, "text": "We purchased an electric Bosch Vision series washer & dryer set(with pedestals) from Lowe's because it was a very good deal. I don't know if I have enough room here to express all the exasperating things about these machines, but will hit some of the low points for us. They are probably okay if you are a complete Nimrod, and want the standard settings on the machine to do the thinking for you, but I have been doing laundry many years now, and I know what temperature, cycle, etc. that I need to get certain clothes clean without ruining them- but with these units, you don't have options such as temp control (except on 2 cycle selections) or length of cycle. It does however, think that a choice of spin speed is vitally important, because you can change that on every cycle. It has a choice of several cycles which are pre-labeled for certain types of materials (e.g jeans, comforter) and a generic \"Quick Full\" and \"Quick Light\" cycles. I don't really know what temperature these wash in-(and unless you refer to the graph in the manual, you won't), so I only use them for those things that have been washed 1000 times before. Many cycles seem extra long-the Xtra Sanitary cycle is about 3 hours long when you add a stain cycle. And you may think I am kidding on this next thing, but the minutes during the countdown of a wash cycle are sometimes much longer than a minute. One time, a cycle had one minute left for 5 minutes- and this is not the same everytime- Seriously.\nNow, let me be straight, I have found nothing seriously adverse about the way they clean the clothes. That's pretty standard. The drying on the otherhand, takes some creativity on which cycle (usually cycles) to choose to get the stuff dry in the least amount of time.\nThe end cycle signals are the MOST annoying feature. They ring incessently (okay, that's a lie...they do stop after sometime longer than 20 minutes of beeping about every 6 seconds). I haven't let the beep go on much longer than that, because it drives us crazy- but if you are trying to sleep or just can't get to the washer right away- it will drive your whole household insane until someone rushes in and opens the washer door to stop it. How many times do you have to be reminded that the wash cycle is finished? Once or twice would suffice, right? The dryer also has its own annoying cycle beeps- which can be changed if you want to. I am still figuring this out.\nRinsing well seems to be a problem, and I only use 1-2 tablespoons of detergent, as recommended, even if you add the Allergy Rinse. Sometimes I set it for another \"Quick\" cycle just to rinse it. There is not a choice for rinse only. There is, however a Drain & Spin Only- which is useful if you feel you need it.\nThis leads me to vibration mode. On Max Spin our whole house vibrates- sounds like a helicopter is hovering overhead. We have now opted to choose a lower spin speed each time we start another load, if we actually remember to do it.\nTonight, the new irritant was this:\nMost washers/dryers have the option of changing the door opening based on how you have them arranged. We, after wrenching these two monster units into place in our newly remodeled laundry room, erroneously assumed we could switch the washer door opening, as we could on the dryer. Uh-uh. So now we have a washer that opens to the wrong side.\nUmm, what else?  Oh, yes...the drying cycles (on the dryer of course) restart their time ALL OVER AGAIN if you happen to want to open the door to check on how your load is doing, or add another item.  For example, if you have chosen a cycle that takes 60 minutes, and it's been running for 40 minutes- and you are wondering if your shirt is dry enough yet so you open the door to check on that shirt- and no, it's not dry enough so you throw it back in and close the door. The timer then automatically re-sets back to 60 minutes- (no kidding).You get to start all over again, or choose another cycle entirely.\nSo, if I had enough money to give these away, and get another brand (like my old LG's), I would.  If this helps someone else avoid some angst, then it has been worth my time.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4846, "id": 112229, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 790, "len_tokens": 948, "text": "I'm assuming mine is an earlier version of this one.  It looks just like it except I don't have the pretty lights on the front (bummer).  It certainly looks beautiful but it does have pluses & minuses.\n\nPluses:  love the adjustable racks and open spaces for large items; like the \"bins\" on the silverware holder so I can put small items in it & close the lid and not have them end up on the floor of the unit (to credit it - I've never had a single item end up on the floor of the machine); nice heavy duty stainless interior; quiet operation (although it seems louder now than when I purchased it, this may just be because the transition from my old machine was so noticeable, whereas, now I'm used to this one); unlike others, I love the way it dries, nothing warps or melts.\n\nMinuses: I don't know if it is the way my Pfaltzgraf dishes are made but they don't fit in the unit as well as in my old GE, the plates and bowls only stand up well on the rear rack/row of the machine, on the front side they roll out of position and then lean forward; similar problem with the glasses & cups, they only fit well on the first/outside rack, when I put them on the second row I have to hook them on prongs to fit them at all and then they are sort of staggered so it doesn't hold as many as it could; I have also had where the soap did not dispense correctly on a couple of occasions - I opened the door and the soap was globbed all around the dispenser, I do not know what caused this issue, I guessed maybe putting too much soap in, but I really don't know, I cleaned it up (the stainless interior cleans beautifully, btw) and re-ran it, a little aggravating, but I'm guessing it was something I did.  My recommendation is to take your dishes into a showroom and test fit them before you make a purchase (hard to do on Amazon, lol), that's what I'm going to do when I buy another dishwasher.  The salesman may think you're crazy but if it causes you to switch choices you will be glad you did.\n\nUpdate Sep 2012 - I've downgraded from 3 to 2 stars. I had some weird sensor message like E9 and the machine wouldn't work at all. I had to get a tech out, who then had to order a part and come back and install it. I had my old cheapy GE for almost 25 years and it never broke down. It even still worked when we replaced it so I'm extremely disappointed to have this one break down after less than 2 years.\n\nUpdate March 2013 - I'm downgrading this again. I'm sick and tired of having to rewash dishes that this machine doesn't clean. I realize rings dried on mugs from tea are more difficult to clean but my old cheap dishwasher managed, this one doesn't. I went without this machine for months (primarily because I didn't bother to call that's how little I missed it) while I waited for it to be fixed, and truthfully handwashing the dishes wasn't much different than using this dishwasher because I have so much prewash prep to do. I have to make sure there are no rings or debris on anything before I put it in or I have to do it by hand afterwards anyway. I make certain all of my silverware has a space between it and the next piece, and even then, if it had been used to slice a banana or for peanut butter the chances are it will need to be rewashed, and this is after washing for 3 hrs and 2 mins (I rarely ever use the regular wash which is 2 hrs 14 mins because it washes so poorly I figure it needs all the help it can get), so now I wipe my silverware before I put it in as well!\n\nUpdate Sep 2013 - It's been broken down for at least 3 months now and I haven't even bothered to call to get it fixed even though I bought an extended warranty.  I'm probably secretly hoping the warranty runs out so I can buy another dishwasher.  It really is less aggravating to just wash the dishes by hand than deal with the frustration of having to check each piece after washing for over 3 hours.  If they had a zero rating I'd give it to this item, that's how bad it is.  It really is a poorly designed/made machine. DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4847, "id": 112507, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 831, "len_tokens": 971, "text": "First of all my attempt to purchase this was a challenge. One national retailer had an excellent price but although not mentioned on the web site as such it was a WEB only deal and the starting price of $629 was actually $699 in the store.  The additional special savings to reduce it to $535 only worked if you had their credit card although they said it would also work if you applied for one....that was a bait and switch as it came with no price guaranty. While I have purchased from this retailer often in the past this will be my last purchase.  Dealing with the mafia would have been easier.  I got the $629 price walking in the door at Lowes.\n\nWhile I have only washed two loads they were both challenges and I am very happy with the results.  To those who have criticized this washer in other reviews, one suggestion, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!\n\nThis is a new technology washer and it works different. The cycles operate in a manner that you have not heard before and they will seem strange.  For example the tub seems to drain after a cycle but then the pump seems to run afterward.  The tub is suspended differently so when it spins the washer moves around a lot as if it were slightly out of balance so put it on a solid floor and not pushed up tight against something. The tub does not fill with water but that doesn't matter if you follow the instructions and load it right, because the agitator plate seems to roll the clothes up, down and around.  It does tend to knot things up a little, live with it.  Does it cause wrinkles? Yes, especially if you set it to the highest spin cycle to get it the driest. I had no wrinkles that didn't smooth out in the dryer. As far as lint,another complaint of others, I never found my old washer did a very good job of that either but the dryer took care of it just fine always, that's why a dryer has a lint filter.\n\nI have only ran two loads and both were tests. I also have not used IE detergent yet as I still have a little cold water liquid Tide left.  Since the cautions against using regular detergent deal with over sudsing I simply used less and had no problems.  The first load was a medium load and it violated the Maytag suggestions as it mixed clothing types.  The load included Dockers, blue jeans, dress shirts, socks and under garments. Nothing was overly soiled and all came out just fine.  The Dockers, blue jeans and dress shirts were wrinkled and the shirts were twisted but all came out fine in the dryer. I ran the load at \"Normal\" setting and reduced the temperature to \"Cold\".\n\nMy second load was a queen sized, quilt/comforter that was about 2 years old and had not been washed as it would not fit in my old washer and I hadn't taken it to a laundromat.  I ran it as a bulky load and set the temperature to \"cool\", it came out great. While large and bulky I checked the load part way through due to all those reviews that suggested that some items never even got wet.  When I checked the load part way through the cycle it was completely soaked!\n\nI had a couple of concerns after reading all of the comments on the WEB and reading the manual online at the Maytag site but I figured I could move it to a rental if it didn't work for me.  One of my biggest concerns is that I have lots of iron in my water and if I wash in anything other than \"Cold\" water I can get massive rust stains on my clothes.  Someplace in the manual I read that even with \"Cold\" settings the washer my add hot water.  While that may be true I kept checking the hot hose during the cold load and it never warmed, so if you wash \"Cold\" like I do I can offer that in the \"Normal\" setting manually adjusted to \"Cold\" I used no hot water.  When I ran the second load with the quilt I used the \"Bulky\" setting and adjusted the temperature to \"Cool\" and the soil setting to \"Light\".  I was trying to determine if I could use this as an alternative solution to my iron stain problem.  I checked the tub part way through the wash cycle and the water temperature was not warm enough to cause the iron oxidization that I had experienced even in the warm settings on my old washer.\n\nWhile two loads isn't a long history, both of these loads were out of the norm and I was very pleased with the results.  Unless future loads uncover problems not yet apparent I give this washer a definite thumbs up. One last thing....READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4848, "id": 139877, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 733, "len_tokens": 911, "text": "YES!! Our dryer works again! And now it dries better than before. :)\n\nWe moved a few years back, and the dryer here we don't know if it is 5 yrs. or 18 yrs. old. It seemed to take longer and longer to dry the clothes on the 'energy saver' moisture sensing (low-temp) cycle. Then one day, it stopped drying. I woke up in the early a.m. and heard the dryer running and thought my wife had done some early morning laundry? But later that day she said no, that was the load she put in around 9 p.m. the night before. So basically we had a nice 8 hrs. + of dry time, no heat. The lack of heat on that sensing cycle made the timer fail to advance.\n\nThat is why at first I thought it might be the \"high limit thermostat\" so I ordered that. Then I figured it could help to have more parts. I then ordered this igniter, and some valve coils. I remember our furnace had the igniter wear out in the past, it is a sparkly electrical element that glows bright orange and gets HOT!! to ignite the gas. I figured if I had the dryer opened up, I might as well replace the coils too, to save labor later.\n\nWell, the parts came, so I was eager (sort of) to get it fixed. The starting is the hardest part, for sure. I watched a couple videos before about gas dryer repair, unplugged the wall outlet, unscrewed 2 screws by the lint trap, lifted off the top and unscrewed 2 more screws to take off the front. Holy cow, it had a lot of dust in there, so I did a lot of vacuuming. I couldn't find any gas shutoff on the flexible line coming into the dryer, so I moved everything carefully and didn't unhook any gas connections, obviously. I saw an internal shutoff screw on the gas control valve once I was in there, or I could have shut off the main house gas line too.\n\nI couldn't loosen the screw on the side of the igniter since it is close to the left side of the box, even with some channel locks, so I unhooked the belt and took the drum out. Then I vacuumed more. Oh, I also cleaned out the exhaust ducts and the top lint screen housing with brushes I bought in the past.\n\nBy taking the drum out I could reach the gas control stuff in the front lower left side. I unscrewed the bracket for the igniter, and changed it to the new one, exact match. I also changed out the valve coils, they are easy, unplug the wire/clip thing from each one, unscrew the metal bracket holding them in, swap out with new ones, reconnect clips.\n\nIt was a little tricky getting the drum back on, had to make sure the seal was not folded or overlapped wrong, then put the belt on and put it back on the rollers in back and the lower Z-roller/bracket thing in front. I rotated it around to get everything to seat properly, propped it up with a dumbbell. Then reinstalled the front, screws, the electrical wire harness clip to the housing, then the lid, the screws for the lint trap, then slid the whole thing carefully back onto the ductwork and laid on the floor to wiggle it nice and snug to seal well.\n\nThen I plugged it back in, and now it WORKS! Hallelujah. And now the clothes dry better, we can set it for at least 1 line less dry time versus before.  So if your gas Whirlpool dryer is not working/heating I'd recommend buying all 3 parts, but be sure to NOT TOUCH the igniter - your skin oils will make it fail/wear out rapidly.\n\nI am not an expert, I watched a couple videos (thank you repair clinic dot com!! ), reviewed setup info, prayed for wisdom and safety, and I'd guess it took me about 1.5 hrs. to get the whole process done, this included setting up tools, lights, labor, a lot of vacuuming up dust and crud. :) I also took my time to be sure to everything correctly.\n\n OH - and I used my camera to take several pics to be sure I'd 'reinstall' things just like they were before, as a 'backup precaution.'", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4849, "id": 149358, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 805, "len_tokens": 944, "text": "Don't be scared off by the negative reviews because we are THRILLED with this dishwasher!\n\nOur dishwasher of 5 years recently died and we really wanted one that would LAST this time. I did a ton of online research (and interviewed some friends concerning their experiences with dishwashers) and found that the Bosch brand is one of the best as far as longevity. We got this one from the Ascenta series because it was one of the most affordable models.\n\nI'm so glad we got it. My husband was able to install it himself without any problems. We've had it for several months (UPDATE: We've had it for nearly a year) and haven't had ANY issues. It looks nice (and the exterior doesn't seem to pick up tons of fingerprints, etc.). It has plenty of settings without being overwhelming: Heavy wash, auto wash, normal wash and half load. You also have the option to sanitize the dishes with a super hot rinse. There is a button to turn it on and off and lights that tell you if an active wash is going, if the dishes are clean, if they are sanitized and if you need rinse aide. You can also delay the start for 3, 6 or 9 hours. All of the buttons are clearly marked and nothing is the least bit confusing. The door automatically closes if it's a certain distance away from the counter and it has no problem latching. I really like the dish detergent dispenser. Unlike our old dishwashers that had a hinged door (that invariably wouldn't close after awhile or would clog with half used detergent) - this one has a slide down door that works perfectly. We use dishwasher detergent tabs and not a single one has clogged or caused problems. There is also a dispenser you can fill with rinse aide. You open a little door and just pour it in there to the fill line. A dispenser light comes on -on the front panel, when you need to refill it.\n\nWhen the dishwasher is running it's very quiet. Not so quiet that you can't hear it, but you can comfortably converse and sometimes I have to check...is it still on because I don't notice it. You can hear some trickling water sounds like when it first starts and when its actively spraying.\n\nNow for the important part: Does it clean?? YES. It does the BEST job of any dishwasher I've EVER had. The dishes come out sparkling. We have very hard water so our previous dishwashers never got our dishes very clean. The dishes always came out spotted at the very least. Sometimes we would even have to rewash dishes. You'd have to practically wash the dishes before putting them in the dishwasher. Not anymore. Every dish, including the silverware, comes out squeaky clean. We've never had anything plastic melt either (as we have had happen with other dishwashers where the heating element was really close to the bottom rack). You can pack dishes in (as we've done a few times) thinking it might be iffy if some of them come out totally clean due to weird angles or whatever - but no, every time everything has come out perfect! We always use the auto wash and sanitize (with rinse aide). I'm SO happy to have a dishwasher finally work the way it's supposed to, even with our horrible hard water.\n\nThe Bosch also does a great job drying the dishes. Except for the few cups with concave surfaces in the bottom, everything comes out really dry and I don't have to have a dish towel to wipe things off like I used to with our old dishwasher.\n\nAs to what other reviews have said about the dishwasher being awkward to load, my daughter would agree. However, *I* really like the layout and the prongs are spaced perfectly for my type of dishes. There are some adjustments you can make with prongs that will lay flat. The silverware holder also has some \"doors\" that flip up that can hold your silverware apart for good cleaning or be used to hold in little lids or things like that - that would otherwise fly around the dishwasher. This dishwasher has no problem holding all the dishes for a family of 4 for dinner plus some from earlier in the day like breakfast/lunch.\n\nI'm so glad I spent hours of online research and went with this dishwasher. We are extremely happy with it.\n\nUPDATE: After having this dishwasher for nearly a year, it still is performing wonderfully, even with our hard water issues. The interior has NOT scaled up with minerals as our previous dishwashers have and the dishes still come out sparkling and clean every time. This is truly the best dishwasher we've ever had.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4850, "id": 156692, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 861, "len_tokens": 981, "text": "My situation related to the cable breaking on one side only.  What I received was the old style cable with the hockey stick shaped attachment on the cable ends with the red striped cables.  The cables AND connector were pretty much an exact match with the original on my 8 year old KitchenAid dishwasher.\n\nMy repair was very successful.  No squeaking or creaking.\n\nMy repair went as follows:\n\nI was actually able to replace the one cable without having to pull out the dishwasher since only the cable needed replacing. I took the advice of others and did not replace the rollers, left the old ones on since they were not broken.\n\n1 - I first turned off the circuit breaker to the dishwasher at the panel.  I checked that the dishwasher would not operate.\n2 - I then removed the bottom front panels to gain access to the underside of the dishwasher while it was still installed.\n3 - I was able to see fairly well under the dishwasher to where the spring was (it had actually come unhooked from the hole in the frame), as well as to fish out the broken cable and connector.\n4 - In my case the cable connector broke (the plastic tab) and not the cable itself.  Had to replace the whole cable attachment of course though.\n5 - I was able to reach my arm under the dishwasher and hook the spring back onto the hole in the frame.  At the same time I hooked the end of the new cable onto the other end of the spring (the end closest to the front of the dishwasher of course).  So now the new cable end is hooked up to the dishwasher and I need to find a way to pull the cable around the pulleys and hook it up to the dishwasher door hinge.\n\n  **So from this point forward, the new cable end is already hooked onto the end of the spring.**\n\n6 - Then (and I think this is an important part) I used some string to stretch the spring to give me some slack to hook the new cable around the wheels and the connector onto the door hinge!  I didn't grab the cable itself with Vise Grips!\n\n7 - I looked at some other reviews where people said they used vice grips to grab the cable itself to give them enough slack to wind the cable around the wheels.  I don't think this is a good idea at all !!!!  I have to believe you might damage the cable itself from the teeth of the vise grips.  Plus it has to be pretty tricky to hold the cable and thread it at the same time (basically impossible if you don't pull the dishwasher out as well, which was my situation).\n\n8 - So what I did was take some garden twine and double it up so that I had an open loop on the end  ( I didn't put a knot in the end of the loop since I wanted to cut it later to pull the string out) .  I actually used a double thickness of garden twine so that I had two separate open loops of twine (two loops of twine mean the twine is less likely to break when you pull on it).\n9 - I then tied a closed loop in the other end of the garden twine such that I could put a screwdriver through the loop and form a T-shape that you could pull.  You don't have to tie a loop, but I found it held all the string together nicely on the end and made a nice small hole to put the screwdriver in.\n10 - I then reached under the dishwasher and placed the open loops of the twine around the end of the spring just above where I had looped the new cable onto it, and fed the rest of the length of the twine out to where we could get our hands on the closed loop.  We then put a thick screwdriver through the closed loop to form the T-shape and my wife gently pulled on the twine, stretching the spring.\n11 - This gave me enough slack to wind the cable successfully around the wheels and fit the connector over the dishwasher hinge point without any effort at all!  Easy as pie.\n12 - My wife then slowly released the tension on the twine and the spring relaxed and the cable stiffened up.\n13 - I was then able to cut the open ended loops of garden twine and pull them out from under the dishwasher.\n14 - Closed up the bottom panel on the dishwasher and flipped the circuit breaker back on.\n\nTotal time about 45 minutes.  30 minutes trying to figure out how to tension the spring successfully.\n\nIn all honesty, I did get a few scratches on my arms reaching under the dishwasher, but nothing of any consequence.  I would wear long sleeves if I did it again.  Suggest you remove watches and rings as well if you want to try this.\n\nHope this helps.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4851, "id": 166597, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 799, "len_tokens": 943, "text": "This Bosch  DW replaced a brand-new GE  that was basically DOA with failure to close, three service calls with a fourth pending. It was cheaply made and rather than replacing it after the second service call we were pushed to accept a third and fourth call for the same exact issue. Terrible customer relations. I would never buy another GE dishwasher.\nBosch SHE3ARF2UC pros:\n1. Made solidly. You can tell the engineering was well thought out and implemented unlike the GE.\n2. Stainless steel tub with polypropylene bottom and a manual filter. This aspect eliminates noise of the grinding and pump  to achieve the 50 dB it advertises.\n3. Cleans dishes amazingly well. You can set the amount of jet dry solution from off to 5. We have our set 3.\n4. Superb selection of wash cycles. We love the express as it only takes 30 minutes. In a two-person household with minimal dishes throughout the day, the unit is only 1/2-3/4 full by the evening. As one reviewer commented, you do not want to use excess amounts of dishwashing powder. 1 tablespoon suffices for this size load. Never fill the cup unless it is jammed full and the dishes and pots are heavily soiled. We always prerinse and scrape our dishes.\n5. After the Express 30 minutes cycle, we allow the dishes to dry with the door closed for the first half hour then open up and pull out the racks to dry overnight. There is always a little water on the bottom of the cups turned upside down. A quick dab with a dishtowel prior to replacing in the drawer/cabinet is all that is needed. Silverware is sparkling clean and glasses are spot and streak free. It is probably best not to use any of the DW gels in this unit.\nCons:\n1. Capacity may be a little small for a household of 4-6 people. You would likely have to run this unit twice a day. You may want to opt for a bigger cabinet.\n2. While some bemoan the lack of a track for the wheels on the bottom rack, that's simply a matter of getting used to. There is a nice convenient handle that sticks up in the center of the rack and you should use that to pull the rack out and push it back in. It tracks perfectly well that way. It would appear to me that trying to engineer some tracks for the wheels would introduce crevices that reduce the efficiency of the washing and allow for moisture accumulation and therefore odors. I like it the way it is. The present design therefore is not a con in my opinion.\n3. The only beef we have is the design of the racks. It is supposed to be \"the European design\" whatever that is. There are very narrow tines and some that are not so narrow at right angles. The upper rack has an indentation in the front that actually removes some of the capacity. It is designed as a handle to pull and push the rack in and out of the cabinet. The upper rack in the back has female openings into which male openings in the back of the cabinet would fit for introducing the water pressure to spin the spray arm underneath the upper rack. It is really an ingenious design and apparently works quite well if the upper rack is restored to its proper position before closing the door.\nAll in all, a terrific machine. Hinges have some springs on it to allow positional opening as well as rapid closure of the door. The clasp for closing is secure and engineered beautifully compared to that GE dog with it's plastic clasp and the cheap hinges attached to thin metal frames. Take it from us, get a Bosch but don't buy a $1500 model with all the bells and whistles. $600-$800 is plenty of machine for most of us.\nWell we did not buy it through Amazon, we got it through a local bricks and mortar, privately held appliance Center but even then paid over $350 more than we should have as we got no benefits from installation rebates or store credits as we would have from a local big box store. Mom-and-pop appliance stores want to compete and what they have to offer is superior service and personal interest in its customers. When they fail in that respect and in getting your repeat business, they are not worthy of your future business. Such was our scenario for nearly 4 months dealing with the defective GE DW with the local dealer. Finally we got the unit removed and a replacement ordered and installed only after many weeks of dealing with GE customer (non-) service and the local dealers business office.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4852, "id": 174444, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 772, "len_tokens": 957, "text": "This defrost thermostat was relatively easy to install once I was able to access the part.\n\nOur refrigerator was not maintaining the correct temperature, even though our freezer was staying cold.  We have the Electrolux Ikon french door refrigerator, model E23BC78IPS0.\n\nFirst I pulled the refrigerator out of the cabinet and carefully removed the back panel to take a look.  The condenser coils were free of dirt and dust.  The condenser fan was running.  In addition, the compressor was vibrating and warm to the touch.  I assumed the start relay switch was ok since the compressor was on.\n\nSince everything seemed to be working well in the back,  I decided to take a look at the evaporator coils and evaporator fan in the freezer.  The parts are located at the back of the freezer, so I had to take out all of the food.  I used the following hand tools to access the compartments:\n\n- phillips head screwdriver (to remove panels)\n- 1/4 nut driver (to remove panels)\n- 3/8 nut driver (to remove the bottom freezer door which allows better access to the parts)\n\nI found the evaporator coils frozen over (see photo) and the defrost thermostat looked busted (see photo).  In addition, the evaporator fan wasn't running so at first I thought that might be broken as well.  But, the fan turned on after I pushed the button that senses if the door is closed, so that wasn't the problem.\n\nAt this point, I ordered the new defrost thermostat and unplugged the refrigerator and let it defrost overnight.  Once the freezer was defrosted, I cut the two wires about an inch from the defrost thermostat.  I unclipped the defrost thermostat and removed it.  One of the wires had a white molex on its other end which connected to the defrost heater (on the right side of the freezer).  I pushed the molex tab to disconnect it.  The other wire had a pink Gardner Bender fully insulated disconnect.  This male/female pair does disconnect, but with a little effort and care not to pull the wires out.  Once disconnected, I stripped 1/4 from the wire end of each of these wires, keeping the connectors to be reused with the new defrost thermostat.\n\nNote that I didn't check the defrost thermostat for continuity before removing it because it was obviously physically ruptured.  But, if you weren't sure if it was bad, you could check it for continuity first.  You would need to do that before defrosting the freezer or you would need access to a freezer to put it in to test it as it needs to be at 25 F in order for it to activate (47-22 as indicated on the part).  Ice water does not work for testing as it is not cold enough.\n\nWhile I was waiting for the new defrost thermostat to arrive, I also checked the defrost heater (attached to the defrost thermostat at the molex end) and the thermistor (located on the left of the freezer behind a small plastic cover) for continuity.  Both were fine, but I am glad I checked them because I didn't want to go through taking everything apart again if the defrost thermostat wasn't the only problem.\n\nTo install the new defrost thermostat, I needed the following:\n- wire cutter/stripper\n- 2 wing nut wire connectors\n- silicone sealant\n\nThe new defrost thermostat wires need to be spliced to the wire with the molex and the wire with the GB disconnect.  To do this, I put one of the wires from the new defrost thermostat and the wire with the molex into a wing nut wire connector and twisted it to connect.  I put the other wire from the new defrost thermostat and the wire with the GB disconnect into a wing nut wire connector and twisted it to connect.  I put just enough silicone sealant into the wing nuts to cover the wires to protect them against moisture from the freezer.  I had to wait 30 minutes for the silicone sealant to set.\n\nI installed the new part by attaching the GB disconnect side first, then clicking the molex into place on the other side.  Finally, I clipped the default thermostat into place.  Ive added a photo of the new default thermostat installed.\n\nI ended up deciding to do this myself because the first refrigerator repair person that we contacted came over and said that he didn't know what was wrong and couldn't help us and the second repair person that we contacted said he wouldnt be able to come by for 3-4 days.\n\nI hope this helps!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4853, "id": 177640, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 750, "len_tokens": 969, "text": "This machine is surprisingly quiet compared to our previous Whirlpool Gold (Quiet Partner III) tall-tub model (about 10 years old), and the capacity is about the same. We are pleased with it overall, but having lived with it for a few months, we note the following quirks (or maybe they are actually ingeniously designed \"Features\" that should have names?)\n\n- \"Rinse them Yourself\" feature. In other words, shockingly, there is no traditional Rinse and Hold feature. This is surprising given that this machine is almost at the top of Whirlpool's line-up. It's also difficult to \"make your own\" rinse-and-hold, (ie., let the dishwasher fill, rinse and drain, then cancel the whole cycle), because it's too quiet to know for sure what it's doing.\n- \"Mystery Pulse\" motor/pump. It's probably \"okay,\" but the motor runs in several \"pulses\" (about half a second each) before starting the cycle. Probably it's priming the drain pump, or centering the motor shaft, or something...but the fact that it never seems to pulse the same number of times twice, or at the same times, does make you wonder what the heck it's doing. In the case of the beginning rinse cycle, the various pulses are then followed by a bizarre pattern of starts/stops. Hard to believe it can rinse better by constantly interrupting itself...but...the dishes do come out clean.\n- \"Auto Fall\" silverware basket falls automatically, and spills its contents, if you try to pull out the bottom rack by the attached silverware basket. Very tempting to do so because the basket's great big handle is front-and-center when you open the door. You have the option of mounting the basket on the door, much more securely, but then the silverware doesn't get as clean because one side of the mesh basket is blocked.\n- \"Mystery Attach\" silverware basket provides hours of brain-teasing amusement as family members try to reattach it to the front of the bottom rack, by two tiny positioning pegs. The rack and the basket are not perfectly square, so you have to \"flex\" the basket a little while positioning one peg at a time--making this operation a painstaking, two-handed effort every time. And every time is \"often\" due to the \"Auto Fall\" feature described above. Everyone in the family, from know-it-all teenagers to frail grandmothers, have complained about this \"feature.\"\n- \"Find the Slot\" silverware sorting game. The top of the basket has snap-in guides to hold various pieces of silverware--evidently to keep them from \"nesting\" and not getting clean. Given the limited number of slots, and the fact that silverware with slightly large handles only receive a few slots, you will probably tire of this game soon. To end it, you can snap out the guides and toss them aside--just like the stemware holders in the top rack that take up way too much space on a day to day basis.\n\nThis is an Energy Star model, so if you choose any of the \"eco\" friendly settings, be prepared for lesser levels of performance, especially in drying. When researching a new dishwasher, I saw a lot of reviews for all makes complaining about slow wash cycles and lack of dry dishes. Well, that appears to be \"life with Energy Star efficiency.\" You must use the scorch-the-earth, \"high heat dry\" option to get anything near traditional dishwasher results, and even then, Whirlpool's literature tells you that you MUST use a rinse aid to get anything near satisfaction in drying.\n\nAlso, if you're an owner of an older model, be prepared for marathon run times (necessitating the great sound insulation). Like most low-water consumption models, this thing will run for MANY HOURS (6 or more is possible) while using a small amount of water and high-performance detergent to wash your dishes. That's true of any make, but if you haven't bought a dishwasher in a while, be prepared! If you rinse your dishes well and want them done in a hurry, there is a one-hour wash cycle, but again, expect to dry them yourself for the most part.\n\nThe build quality is very good, with the exception of the silverware basket, and the stainless steel tub liner is very nice. My DIY installation was a snap, although I had to convert an old 1/2\" water supply line with compression fittings to the new, apparently standard 3/8\" fitting. An elbow fitting is provided. Your Home Depot or Lowe's will have whatever parts you might need for such conversions from older type supply lines/connectors.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4854, "id": 182608, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 725, "len_tokens": 905, "text": "The \"Ides of March\" (well, one day later) is a perfect time to warn anyone considering the purchase of this washer about the multitude of problems it will introduce into your laundry routine (which you can read about in reviews of other Whirlpool Cabrio models on Amazon and elsewhere). But here is a quick summary, which should be all you need to run screaming from this machine: 1) Clothing wrinkled like aluminum foil that has been balled up and opened (If you prefer to hang the majority of your clothes like I do, you'll want to get your iron ready); 2) Items coming out of the washer with dirt and stains remaining, as well as with lint and even, possibly, small holes (like the one in a fleece blanket I washed on the \"delicate\" cycle, or the one in my daughter's shirt that I made the mistake of washing on \"normal,\" even though that is the appropriate setting for a sturdy cotton fabric; 3) Cycles that take at least an hour on average (so forget squeezing in a load before heading out the door or to bed); 4) The need to carefully load your clothes \"doughnut style\" around a washplate without letting any fall into the center; 5) A moldy smell that can develop if you don't run a special cleaning cycle every month or so--or, as I've heard, even if you do; 6) Operational problems and poor customer service from Whirlpool.\n\nI can't comment on the last two items personally, since I am one of the people the reviewer above refers to, who fortunately replaced my disappointing Cabrio with a Speed Queen, the only fully mechanical, American-made (to last!) washer left on the market. (Speed Queen's main competitor used to be Maytag, until they were bought by none other than a company that begins with W.) My Speed Queen AWN412 is a complete 180 degrees from the Cabrio in every way. It looks and sounds like my grandmother's circa 1960 washer (complete with simple dials and a pull knob) and it functions like it, too, washing clothes thoroughly, without undue wrinkling and in half the time the Cabrio would take. Just beautiful.\n\nLike my fellow reviewer said, don't be fooled by appearances and a fancy platinum panel of electronic buttons that are far more likely to malfunction--or the quiet, high tech noise that belies new but unimproved technology. It doesn't matter what your washer looks like--just that it cleans your clothes well. If you can't stand the traditional sounds of an agitator churning away, just turn up some music or sing Hallelujah that you don't have a high efficiency washer attempting to spin the dirt off your clothes at warp speeds. The bottom line, as I learned the hard way (and paid for, with a steep 20% restocking fee from a local appliance dealer--despite being oversold on the Cabrio), is that you simply need a tub full of water and an agitator to clean clothes properly (and there are multiple settings on the Speed Queen so that you can match that water level to your load size).\n\nThe government regulations that led to this new \"green,\" low-water technology may be well-intentioned, but they are nonetheless misguided. As much as liked my previous Maytag, it died after 7 years--which is probably longer than I would have gotten out of the Cabrio. So to echo what a Speed Queen reviewer wrote on Amazon, the savings on energy and water with high efficiency washers is completely negated by the energy from manufacturing plants polluting our environment as they create appliances that break so quickly and end up in landfills. Not to mention having to rewash clothes that aren't clean, doubling the amount of water/energy use, and having to prematurely replace clothes that are destroyed. Or the increased use of your dryer--and iron--to remove wrinkles. Or the need for toxic cleaning agents to prevent mold (which undercuts the use of natural and organic products). So, it turns out, \"high efficiency\" does not equal \"green\" when it comes to washing machines, and it certainly doesn't equal \"effective.\"\n\nTo those who are in the market for a new washer, do yourself a favor and pass on the flashy HE models. And to those who are stuck with one--Good Luck and God Speed (Queen)!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4855, "id": 187955, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 594, "len_tokens": 911, "text": "The wavy metal washer goes on the dryer spindle first, then the drum roller, then the beige fiber washer, then the snap ring.  You are then done.  The dryer drum does NOT need to be completely removed from the machine in order to access the two rollers (and yes replace them both) you will be replacing.  Simply lift the drum up and forward towards you slightly until you see the rollers, then gently lay it down in the dryer.  When you have replaced both rollers, just gently lift it back up and back onto the felt at the back of the machine.  Check the drum belt to make sure that it is in the running position, which is 2 inches in FRONT OF (towards the front dryer door) of  the mounting groove on the dryer drum, SMOOTH side of belt down.  If the belt has slipped into the groove, pull the belt out of the groove towards you and on to the drum.  The spindle, although it is supplied, should not need to be replaced unless yours is badly grooved.  If it is slightly scratched, gently sand it with some very fine sandpaper or emery cloth&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/EZ-FLO-45205-Waterproof-Emery-Cloth-Blue/dp/B00838J94O/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">EZ-FLO 45205 Waterproof Emery Cloth, Blue</a>&nbsp;, then clean the spindle thoroughly with a rag and rubbing alcohol.  Clean the dryer spindle thoroughly before mounting your new drum roller even if you do not sand.  DO NOT lubricate the spindle at all, it should be clean and free of debris.  To get the old snap ring off of the spindle, use a flat tipped screw driver and pry it off - you will not be using it again.  Also, the snap ring supplied with the assembly bends easily, and then does NOT snap back closed well (it needs to be very tight) - I recommend&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/300-Piece-Snap-Ring-Shop-Assortment-18-Sizes/dp/B000K7GREQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">300-Piece Snap Ring Shop Assortment - 18 Sizes</a>, and I used one of these snap rings instead of the one supplied, as they are much sturdier and the holes are big enough to accommodate the tip of a snap ring plier which you must have, or else the job will be a mess.  Use the one supplied as a guide to select one from the other assortment I mentioned, that way you'll know which size to use (use it as a template).  I purchased this snap ring plier set a year ago&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/TEKTON-3576-Internal-External-Snap-Ring-Pliers-Set-4-Piece/dp/B000NPR2P8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">TEKTON 3576 Internal / External Snap Ring Pliers Set, 4-Piece</a>&nbsp;and I have used it quite a bit in addition to the snap ring set assortment.  My 21 year old Maytag dryer now runs like new and is perfectly quiet.  Before, it was squealing horribly, and lubricating the rollers will do absolutely nothing - it stops the noise for awhile, and then it comes right back.  The wavy metal washer supplied is exactly the same used by Maytag when I bought the dryer, and I would stick with the wavy metal washer as supplied in this kit.  The wavy metal washer lasted 21 years.  Also, keep your older dryers and washers, especially if they are Maytag, and fix them up.  They will last for at least another 20 years, as the tubs were made of steel, and now they are plastic.  Simply write the model number from your machine on a piece of paper, type just the model number into Amazon, and click search.  Most of your parts needed will come up, with their pictures.  This company also had this part assembly to me in only 3 days.  A wonderful experience all around.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4856, "id": 189548, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 588, "len_tokens": 926, "text": "I've owned a Max Burton 6000 induction (1800 watts) for over 2 years; it's a much better option.  I mainly use a portable induction burner for cooking outside; if you are cooking something stinky like deep frying oil or it's summer & you're craving pasta but don't want to warm up the kitchen or you're grilling and want to warm a sauce or side dish.  We also like to use it on the deck in the summer for making pancakes.  We eat breakfast outside frequently & it's really convenient to set it up on the table while cooking batches of pancakes.\n\nSo to test this Nesco (1500 watts), we took it out on the deck to make pancakes.  We use a Lodge cast iron pancake skillet/griddle.  This skillet is 10.5 inches outside measurement/10 inches inside cooking measurement so should be a good test.  To test the evenness in cooking, we poured pancake batter to near the edge of the pan, leaving a little space for turning.  This Nesco did a terrible job at cooking evenly.  Even though the circle (cooking zone) is 10 inches, the pan did not get hot enough to the edge so we had a gummy/white pancake & a very overdone center where the element is under the pan.  We tried again, fiddling with the temperature level & making a small pancake in the center.  That was better but this would be annoying to make 1 small pancake at a time & it needed constant watching/adjusting of the temperature.\n**See photo of pancake above.\n\nThere is very little fine tuning in the temperature selection.  You choose between 5 \"Cooking Modes\"; Melt/Warm, Simmer, Boil, Fry & Sear.  My Max Burton has 10 cooking levels which I discovered is important if you're doing anything other than boiling water.  On level 2 (Simmer) it is too cool and on level 3 (Boil) it is too hot; the food burns.  Having only 5 cooking levels is not enough for items that need specific heat control.  Even though the circle (cooking zone) is 10 inches, the pan did not get hot enough to the edge to cook evenly.  With a strong backlight, I could see and measure the induction element; it is approximately 7 inches in diameter.\n\nWhen no pan is present, it beeps at you, a helpful feature.  However, after initially beeping quickly at me, it behaved oddly and after I held a pan away from it for 30 seconds it never beeped.  Either it wasn't actively heating (on level 2) or it decided not to beep.  I started to question the beeping accuracy /effectiveness.\n\nI also tested it boiling water & in that it does a very good/fast job.  So if you're just using this to warm liquids such as water, soup, oil for deep frying; it will probably suffice.  If you want to cook something evenly, look elsewhere.\n\nInduction cooking requires a magnetic pan.  To test your pans, put a magnet on the bottom.  If the magnet sticks, your pan will work on induction.  If it doesn't stick, it won't get hot & you need to choose another pan.  A cheap refrigerator magnet is included with this cooktop.  Handy if you're going shopping for new pans but most people probably already own a magnet or two so not really a selling point.\n\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Max-Burton-6000-1800-Watt-Portable-Induction-Cooktop-Black/dp/B000MVN1M6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Max Burton 6000 1800-Watt Portable Induction Cooktop, Black</a>&nbsp;A much better choice.\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Lodge-Logic-L9OG3-Pre-Seasoned-10-1-2-Inch-Round-Griddle/dp/B00008GKDN/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Lodge Logic L9OG3 Pre-Seasoned 10-1/2-Inch Round Griddle</a>&nbsp;My cast iron pancake griddle; works great on other cooktops.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4857, "id": 201052, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 588, "len_tokens": 911, "text": "This is a dishwasher part which connects the dish rack to the chassis of the machine.\nFirst, the part snaps onto the rack.\nNext, the connection is made via two plastic wheels(on the part) which ride in an aluminum rail(attached to the inside of the dishwasher box).\nThe fitment is fine and the part works as promised.\n\nFailure!  The entire part is made of plastic.  The wheels are attached to the part with plastic prongs.  The prongs break and the wheels come off the part.  Now your dish rack is sagging and you're scratching your head, \"Why?\".  I literally go through 2 of these parts per year.  In fact, I buy one in advance and keep it for the next eventual failure.  I can change that thing out faster than the Maytag man!\nA man knows no fury like a woman whose dishwasher is broken!  But I digress.\n\nIf you need this part, you probably need these parts also!  I have found that if you replace the part with broken or missing clips, IT WILL FAIL QUICKLY.\npositioner\nW10195840\nhttp://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10195840-Positioner/dp/B00DZUB24A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404307408&sr=8-3&keywords=W10350376\n$15\n\nadjuster\nW10195839\nhttp://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10195839-Adjuster/dp/B00ECV65W0/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_zS\n$16\n\nclip lock adjuster arm\nW10250160\nhttp://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-Part-Number-W10250160-CLIP-LOCK/dp/B008DJNMLO/ref=pd_sim_hi_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=03357F2BD3JNA6CH5237\n$16\n**********\nThe rest of this is my rant and experience with dishwashers.\nI have a Kitchenaid KUDS301XWHO dishwasher.  I have had nothing but trouble with it since I bought it.  Although we wash the dishes before loading them into the machine, they have never and will never, come out clean.  Every year the machine pretty much stops working and needs a repair.  If you buy one, I definitely recommend the extended service contract.  I'd buy another machine tomorrow if I thought it would be better.\n\nSadly, our government and the manufacturer nations have conspired against us.  Not so long ago, you could buy a Kitchenaid machine and it would last at least 20 years.  It was loud.  You could hear it all through the house.  Indeed, you could feel it rumbling under your feet!  You couldn't hear the TV when it was on, LOL.  It ran for an hour, the dishes came out too hot to handle and they actually came out clean.\n\nIn contrast, our new machine is very quiet.  While you can definitely hear it while it's running, it's not much louder than the refrigerator which stands next to it.\nFirst and foremost, the \"dish washer\" doesn't!  When the cycle is done, the dishes come out crusted and dirty.  Any water the machine saves is surely lost by our pre-washing the dishes by hand.\nThe new machine is always broken.  I have already done more repairs on mine in three years than we did on older models in 25 years time.  Ditto, my comments from above.  The cost for the 4 parts above(to replace one side of a broken rack)total about $75.  These parts are not covered by the warranty.  I repaired the food chopper myself and recently, we had the touch pad, pump and motor replaced on our 3 year old machine!\nThe new machine's cycles run forever!  This is especially annoying when I'm entertaining and need to run a wash between courses.  Impossible.  Also, the machine has no rinse/hold cycle.  I like the rinse/hold cycle because it does what it says . . . rinse the plates to wash them later, or tomorrow.  So, I can rinse the plates by hand then load them into the machine or just run a 3 hour wash cycle for a machine that's half full or less.  Ridiculous.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4858, "id": 211209, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 798, "len_tokens": 985, "text": "The BEST $200 (including shipping) I've ever spent!  Wish I'd found and done it sooner.  The day it arrived I washed everything even remotely considered dirty because I was so glad to finally get clean clothes.  Let me tell you, the rinse water was gross for at least 2 rinses.  I know my clothes are clean and I'll be using this for as long as it lasts.  I should make my money back in 5 wash-days, as I don't have a car, so I had to take a cab to the laundromat.  Between the cab there and back, and the rolls of quarters, I probably spent $50 every time I went.  I've never been so excited to do laundry!  Yeah it's a girl thing!\nOk, here's the scoop on all the tips out there; believe me, I read every single one to make sure I wasn't buying a piece of junk that was going to break in one or two uses.\nIf you follow these instructions, you'll be all set: (These are a compilation of all the good reviews and helpful tips out there)\nI fill the washer with water(only half way up the blue filter) and add 1 Tablespoon HE detergent ONLY (and bleach if I have whites), place the clothes in, wash for 9 minutes, drain wash side, spin dry the clothes for 3 minutes, fill the washer again with plain water (and add fabric softner if hang drying), add the spun dried clothes again to the washing tub, wash again for another 9 minutes, drain, spin dry again for 3 minutes, then finally hang dry them.\nA tip on how much detergent, bleach and fabric softner to use: I add one tablespoon (15ml) of detergent, 1/8 cup (30ml) of bleach and 1/8 cup (30ml) of fabric softner. I know this does not sound like much but if you add too much detergent the water will just \"sud up\" and when you drain the washing tub it will be full of suds. If you add too much bleach you clothes will smell all \"bleachy\". For the fabric softner you could add more but I feel it is enough and would be a waste if you use more. Last tip get a lint brush, the lint trap traps little lint and that is if it stays in place.\nAfter you put some clothes in the spin dryer as instructed, attach the hose to the RIGHT HOLE... yes, we are going to use this mystery hole if its the last thing we do!! and turn on the water..add a bit of fabric softener (optional) and close it. Keep the water running... that's right.. running for a couple of minutes.. this will get out all the extra soap. Now , shut the water off and let the spin cycle continue, adding extra time if needed. When you set the unit to drain, water in both basins will drain out.\nI run the wash cycle, and move the fill hose to the dryer side. I then run the 5 minute dryer cycle, and add water a couple of times during the process until the run off isn't soapy or dirty. Then I run another 5 minute dryer cycle.\nOn to spin rinsing. When a load is done washing, distribute it in the spinner, turn the spin timer on with the door open (starts the pump) and run faucet water into the spinner for a minute. Then close the spin door and let it spin until water stops coming out. For some users the job is done. I prefer an agitation rinse, back in the wash tub briefly with fresh water then back in the spinner.\nPut delicates or anything with long arm sleeves or legs into a sturdy/durable wash bag.  I bought the 220 Micron Zipper bag for 5 gallon Mini Washing Machine, available here on Amazon. They get badly tangled otherwise, or worn too easily from the hard agitation.\nYou also want to purchase a Floating Washing Machine Filter Bag to collect all the lint that would otherwise stay on all your nice clean clothes.  The blue plastic filter doesn't do such a hot job.\nThat's it folks.  Easy peasy and you've got clean clothes.  They honestly mean when they say 1 tablespoon HE laundry detergent.  Otherwise you'll have too many suds and be rinsing forever til the water comes clean.\nOh, and the machine is bigger than I expected, which was a nice surprise but did not fit under my bathroom sink like I thought it would.\nI hook up the water hose to my kitchen sink, and hook the drain hose over my tall kitchen trash can for the water to drain into.  Then I just dump the trash can water into the sink after each load.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4859, "id": 211532, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 691, "len_tokens": 968, "text": "Many reviews; the favorable ones are right, the unfavorable may have misunderstood what they were buying.  Manual washer supplies the power, the operator supplies the attention.  Tucks away when not in use, almost anyone can pick it up, machine is small (tape-measure the dimensions to get an idea).  The spinner is not a \"dryer\" as some seem to have expected, it spins water out like any washer only more effectively than most.\n\nI bought the XPB45, half again greater capacity, identical design and operational characteristics.  I hope Amazon makes this model available in the near future, I much prefer buying from Amazon than other online retail platforms.  Since the only difference between the -36 and -45 is a couple t-shirts, the use 'tips and tricks' are the same for both.  Few are familiar with twintub operation.  The included instructions are skeletal.  I learned from Grandma on her Easy in 1953.\n\nFirst, tape the drain hose to the sink with packing tape.  Or clamp it under the toilet seat.  Guess why I said that first, LOL.  The pressure will make it want to escape.  It won't hurt anything but can make a mess, might as well avoid that.\n\nNext, UNDERload the washer so everything moves freely.  Much better results with 2 small loads than one excessive one.  (Actually true of any washer, particularly evident with a small one.)  Use HE/low suds detergent.  Use body-temp water (100F) unless fabric says 'cold'.  The temp limit for these machines is 120F.\n\nSome reviews mention lint.  The washing action is very vigorous.  Let the detergent do the work.  Use short (1-min) agitations with long soaks between.  UNDERloading will also minimize lint, as the fabric is free to move.\n\nContrary to the instructions, it is not necessary to drain the wash tub before spinning.  For light soil you can reuse suds and still spin each load as you go.  The 'spin' switch starts the pump independent of the 'drain' switch.  If the wash water becomes dirty/brown/scummy, drain and refresh.  This is where the operator supplies the attention for best results with varying soil.  'Automatic' washers can't replace human judgement and guidance.  Twintubs can produce superior results with supervision.\n\nOK, I'm starting to sound like holy grail.  Sorry.  I'm a scientist and laundry is science.  On to spin rinsing.  When a load is done washing, distribute it in the spinner, turn the spin timer on with the door open (starts the pump) and run faucet water into the spinner for a minute.  Then close the spin door and let it spin until water stops coming out.  For some users the job is done.  I prefer an agitation rinse, back in the wash tub briefly with fresh water then back in the spinner.\n\nAll these options are yours to use as needed.  The Panda performs them at your direction.  With decades of laundry experience, I am completely satisfied with Panda.\n\nAppendix:\n'New washer smell' is butadiene, same thing a tire store smells like.  Dissipates rapidly with use, just like it does with new tires.\n\n'Puddles'.  I find the rapid reversal of spinning water can splash water out the right front edge of the wash door.  More so with large single-piece loads like sheets.  A kitchen sponge can be placed below that point to catch drips.  Strategically-placed household weatherstrip tape may prevent them.\n\n'Prewash'.  Like with any washer, some soils/stains may require extra treatment.  Pretreat with stain release sprays.  If first wash water is especially dirty, spin items (for dripless handling) then rewash.  You will probably find that heavy-soil items benefit from a prewash.  They can be set aside and all be rewashed in the same fill, as the bulk soil has already been removed.  Prewash/normal should be 100-105F so stains don't set.  Second wash should be 120F, do not exceed.\n\n'Detergent dosing'.  Detergents have no instructions for the small volume of a twintub.  Dosing will be tablespoons instead of cups/fractions.  2 tbsp should be right for normal use.  For heavier soil use up to 4 tbsp.  Powders are preferable to liquids (Consumer Report verifies.)  I recommend 1 tbsp STPP detergent booster (available from Amazon, ~$3/pound) for every fill.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4860, "id": 212319, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 777, "len_tokens": 910, "text": "I cannot attest to the quality of this specific part, aside from the fact it is an LG part and is no doubt the same quality junk that you are looking to replace.\n\nI did want to assure anyone looking to repair their washer who finds the nuts just spinning on the old spider, that they DO NOT NEED A NEW DRUM. LG will tell you otherwise as will most parts suppliers but it simply isn't true. Let me explain.\n\nFirst let me clear up a misunderstanding about what's covered by Lg's lifetime stainless steel drum warranty. According to Lg's reps that I spoke to, only the stainless steel part of the drum is covered, and not the carefully designed and planned obsolescence parts like the spider and lifter assemblies. Surprise!\n\nLG (and I assume other manufacturers) design their washers to fail. It's as simple as that. They warranty the parts that they know have a very low chance to fail like the motor and stainless steel drum but surround them with inferior parts that will just squeek by the 5 year store warranties and then crap out. Mine lasted 5 years 3 months. My extended warranty from sears... 5 years. Surprise!\n\nThese companies are counting on people weighing the repair time/cost against just buying a new machine. They want at the very least for you to be forced to purchase expensive parts from them or even better, to just go purchase another unit.\n\nLook inside the tub, those plastic agitators are called lifter assemblies. These lifters cover another plastic piece. The plastic pieces the lifters cover are what the spider part is anchored to. That's right, the part that holds the drum to the spider which connects to the motor are plastic.\n\nWhat is worse, those pieces are designed to never be replaced and is why LG and other suppliers will tell you, you need a new drum. The reason why the old bolts are spinning when you try to remove the old spider is the bolts were sprayed with lock tight and then screwed into nuts that are housed in plastic. So when you go to unscrew them the nuts break or bend the plastic constraints they are housed in and just spin inside the lifter assembly because the plastic cannot endure the pressure needed to break the years of corrosion and lock tight. Surprise!\n\nActually what surprises me more is that any of the bolts unscrew at all considering the deck is masterfully stacked against them.\n\nSo that brings me to what you need to do. You need to try to keep as much material out of the land fills as possible and don't let the companies win by buying a new drum or unit.\n\nHow? Drill out the bolts that spin. I grabbed a large drill bit a bit (hehe) smaller than the head of the bolt and chewed it down to the washer until the threaded shaft was all that remained. Then I took a punch and punched the shaft down so the lifters fell down inside the tub. Make sure you bend up the stainless tabs on the outside that help keep the lifters in place first. And make sure you keep it centered so the head remnants and lock washer breaks away when the bit reaches the washer level. This will save time and keep you well away from the stainless tub.\n\nOnce the lifters drop down you will have access to the nuts and can repair the plastic frame they sit in. I used JB weld to set the nuts back in and also strengthened the few nuts that didn't spin with JB weld for when I have to replace the spider in five years.\n\nBuy six 8mmx45mm stainless steel bolts with some stainless washers and lock washers. You will need them for when you connect everything back together.\n\nSo all in all, I have invested 70 for the spider, and 80 for the bearings,  seal and outer tub gasket. Roughly 10 for the stainless hardware. 160 IS cheaper than a repair man, cheaper than a drum and way cheaper than a new washer. Win! Right?\n\nNow add the time it took to teardown the washer,  the frustration involved with every step of the too-many-to-count step process and the realization that the front loading washers are filthy just by their nature. Gunk gets trapped in every nook and cranny (behind the lifters, all up in the seal, the tub lip, the outer tub etc. Multiply that by the realization that the same parts will fail the exact same way in the future.\n\nIt doesn't feel like I won. Suprise!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4861, "id": 214373, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 761, "len_tokens": 981, "text": "BUYER BEWARE!\n\nI purchased this product. It arrived BROKEN -- it runs but produces NO HEAT!!  (as well as the Sonya washer, which ALSO ARRIVED BROKEN). Can you believe that the seller requested me to remove the back cover and take a picture of \"the problem\"?  How on earth can you take a picture of the absense of heat?  Yes, I took the pictures and sent them to the seller, but of course nothing came of their trying to trouble-shoot the absense of hot air by looking at a photograph of it. (???)\n\nI have phoned the toll-free number asking for contact information of Sonya-authorized repair persons in my area.  I received the sweet and sincere-sounding outgoing message requesting the caller to leave a message and someone will return the call.  No ... no one EVER returned my multiple calls.\n\n\"Sonya\" and I have exchanged MANY emails through Amazon, and the seller simply apologizes profusely but does not address the problem of the broken products ... except to say \"return them.\"\n\nI kept the shipping in case I would need it, so I was prepared to return both products, BUT each crate requires professional (plastic?) strapping to hold the top of the box to the bottom (more like a platform) of the box.\n\nI have no way to STRAP the shipping cartons together, and I have no way to transport the machines and shipping crates to a professional shipper.  Sadly, the expense to professionally strap the cartons falls to ME and is not covered by \"Sonya.\"  Additionally, I based on my experience I do not trust this seller any farther than I can throw it -- How do I know they will ACTUALLY refund my $750?\n\nAlso, I have found ZERO \"authorized\" repair persons ... in the entire United States. The authorized repair persons ARE IN CANADA AND ASIA, not in the U.S.\n\nBOTTOM LINE: \"Sonya\" has taken $750 of my money, provided me with two broken machines, will not return my phone calls, has no authorized repair persons so I can maintain their warranty (rendering the warranty USELESS if you live in the USA), and I am unable to ship the machines BACK to \"Sonya\" because to do so I would have to HIRE a trucker to transport the machines/cartons to a professional shipper PLUS PAY for each carton to be STRAPPED together (the top strapped to the bottom \"platform\").\n\nRETURN SHIPPING EXPENSE NOTE:\n\nThe seller CLAIMS that it will pay for the \"postage\" expense to return faulty merchandise, but what they DO NOT TELL YOU is that the BUYER PAYS for transporting and re-packaging (strapping) the faulty merchandise ... which is VERY espensive.\n\nThe Amazon problem-solvers \"can only say that the seller is willing to refund your expense if you will kindly return the merchandise.\"\n\nI contacted my attorney about being RIPPED-OFF by an international company. His response? Legal attempts to recover my financial loss will cost me MUCH MORE than what I paid for the merchandise.\n\nMY ADVICE BASED ON MY EXPERIENCE IS THIS:\n\n - DO NOT PURCHASE FROM THIS SELLER.\n - THERE ARE NO SONYA-AUTHORIZED SERVICE REPS IN THE USA SO IF YOU CAN FIND SOMEONE (UNAUTHORIZED IN THE US) TO REPAIR THE PRODUCT, THE WARRANTY IS INVALIDATED.\n - IF YOU GET BROKEN MACHINES, YOU MUST PAY TRANSPORT AND PROFESSIONAL STRAPPING IN ORDER TO SEND THE MACHINES BACK.\n - SONYA's EMAILS DO NOT ADDRESS MY QUESTIONS OR PROBLEMS; THEY DO GUSH WITH SO-SORRYs AND RECOMMENDATIONS BUT THAT'S IT.\n - The seller is not in the United States and is not a U.S. company, so taking INTERNATIONAL legal action to recover your purchase price and shipping is likely to cost several times what you have already lost, AND your chances of successful INTERNATIONAL recovery of your funds is practically ZERO.\n\nGOOD LUCK TO HAPPY BUYERS:\n\nI have read the positive reviews of these products, and made my purchase based upon them.\n\nApparently, there are buyers who have received merchandise in working order, and good for them ... but ... when the machine breaks, I wish them luck in finding an appliance repair person who is either \"Sonya authorized\" or even not \"authorized\" but willing to attempt repair.\n\nI have contacted several major appliance repair service companies in my area and each refused to attempt repair because the internal workings of the machines (Sonya washer and Sonya dryer) are not standard in the U.S. and for that reason the repair service reps have no experience or knowledge of \"where to even begin.\"\n\nSo, I repeat ... BUYER BEWARE!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4862, "id": 215686, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 779, "len_tokens": 918, "text": "We wanted a cabinet depth refrigerator as we don't like our fridge sticking out too far from the cabinets.  We had a GE prior to this one and I swore I would never buy another GE refrigerator again.  It was about 10 years old and was their top of the line cabinet depth back then.  Thank goodness for extended warranty as we had numerous calls on it which unfortunately continued after when we had to pay about another $400 to keep it running.  Ferraris have this sort of maintenance needs, not GE appliances....\n\nI was looking at Samsung and LG options and was sold on going that route when my wife found this model online.  I was not thrilled about it, but agreed to look at it since she liked the looks and features.  A local large box home appliance retailer said they could get it for me and the price was right - with their 5 year extended warranty - so I went ahead with it.\n\nSo far it has been a very nice refrigerator.  I really like the LED lighting.  It really lights up the interior so much better than the old incandescent bulbs of the past.  And it gives it a rich look.  The LCD panel on the front is an attractive feature and does things like tell you how much water you're dispensing in ounces.  Very nice, for example, if you want need 8 ounces of water.  It counts it off for you.  It also has a neat animated background when in use.  Just a nice detail that makes it feel \"rich\" without being gimmicky.\n\nThe hot water dispenser is a very unique feature I have not seen on any other refrigerator. It is good for tea, soups, etc.  It takes several minutes to warm up, as you may expect, but is more convenient that boiling water on the stove.  So far we've only used it a few times, but I can see where this would be a handy feature once you remember you actually have it.\n\nIt runs quiet and efficiently.  The ice maker works very well.  It took about 8 to 12 hours before ANY ice was made so don't be alarmed if you don't see any ice making activity for the first 6 or 8 hours. I was ready to call service on this but it must take time for it to get started. (Yes, I know ice doesn't freeze instantly....  It just seemed to be a long time until ANY was made.)\n\nThe freezer has multiple levels and 2 pull out drawers, so organizing your food should be easy.  Going from a side-by-side to this will take some getting used to, but we don't have a ton of freezer stuff and we have a second refrigerator in the garage where we keep items less often used, so ours is still mostly empty. You will have to judge this based on your own habits.\n\nThe \"fun\" feature is the ability to use the LCD panel as an electronic picture frame.  I am a gadget person so I tried this out.  There is a USB port under a rubber cover where the ice/water dispense.  THIS IS NOT documented in the manual so I had to find it on my own. It immediately recognized the USB drive and uploaded the pictures.  Note, it only does a full overwrite of what is on there, so you can't simply add or delete pictures. Load your pictures on a USB drive, plug it in, and it simply replaces everything on the fridge with what is on your drive. When you use the panel for water or ice, it will then display your pictures for some period of time as a slide show(not sure how long - 10 minutes maybe?)  Unfortunately GE engineers don't allow any customization of this feature. It's just an upload and display item; you can't adjust anything about how they display.  There is NO documentation in the manual that I could find so if you like this feature you will have to sort this out on your own. (See my reply below with a more detailed explanation of this process!)\n\nOverall our first month has gone well.  The store explained that the manufacture of GE refrigerators has moved from Mexico back to the US and they've seen an uplift in quality. (I did look and my old GE was made in Mexico and this one is made at Appliance Park in Kentucky.)  So will see how that plays out long term.  Given the Cafe line is supposed to be their best, I anticipate much better service than the Artica model I had before.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4863, "id": 218203, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 700, "len_tokens": 911, "text": "LOVE the new Nina Soft Spin Dryer &  Wonder Wash combo!\n\nWe live in a fifth wheel and have an on-board washer and dryer. Sometimes it takes the tumble dryer up to 4 HOURS to dry two bath towels even though they'd been through the spin cycle in the washer.  Since we don't always have full hook-ups and some park laundry facilities are up to $3.25 to wash and dry a load, I'm now using Laundry Alternative's Wonder Wash and the Nina Soft Spin Dryer.  The Nina Soft pulled nearly 3 quarts of water out of EACH of two towels, after which the tumble dryer finished drying both in 40 minutes.  Woohoo!\n\nOther remarkable drying times:  Nina Soft followed by the tumble dryer = Queen sheets dry in 20 minutes; 4 pair of jeans shorts, 20 minutes.  Nina Soft + line dry on a hot day = 20-30 minutes total drying time for T-Shirts /Shorts.  Pretty amazing.\n\nThe spin dryer's earned a permanent place in my RV kitchen because I use it almost every day.  I'll still be using it even when I have full hook-ups and can return to using my regular washer.\n\nI dealt directly with Laundry Alternative and they were great to work with... answered many questions by phone and email before and after receiving my products.  My only regret is that I didn't order them a year ago.  I could have saved so much time drying my clothes, and money at  park laundry rooms.\n\nRVrs:  The Laundry Alternative people told me it's BEST THAT NINA SOFT TRAVELS UPRIGHT v. stowed on its side.\n\nBOONDOCKERS, I asked the Laundry Alternative people how much water would the Wonder Wash be putting into the grey tank for washing and rinsing?  Here is their reply:\n\n\"It takes a little over a gallon of water to wash the clothes. Rinsing depends on the method used. If you refill the machine to rinse, you can use up to 3 gallons of water\" [total, wash + rinse water]. \"You can also rinse by hand, and perhaps use less water. The best way to use the least amount of water is to use a spin dryer...it's not commonly known, but a fast spin cycle removes a great deal of detergent suds...most people assume you must use water to rinse, but fast spin speed also does a great job of rinsing.\"\n\nFor what it's worth, I'm making my own low suds powdered detergent from recipes found on youtube, and I'm getting great results with only 1/2 - 1 TEASPOON of powder per load in the Wonder Wash.  Makes rinsing easy and the water extracted via the spin dryer is coming out nearly clear.  If you have to be super conservative with water while boondocking or managing your grey tank level, it is easy to recapture the rinse water from the Wonder Wash and the Nina Soft and re-use it to wash the next load.\n\nThe photo compares the Nina Spin Soft to my counter height and a one-step folding stool.  Hopefully it will give you a good visual comparison for size.  Believe me it's worth the space.  And the price for the Laundry Alternative combo.\n\nBTW, my husband was fussing that these were just \"gadgets\" before I made the purchase.  After watching me keep the laundry clean this last month and my neighbor schlepping off to the laundromat with 3 weeks dirty laundry, I got a welcome, \"Good decision, Babe.\"  Can't beat that.  Unless he did the laundry.  LOL\n\nUPDATE 10/20/15:  STILL LOVE THE WONDER WASH/NINA SOFT SPIN DRYER COMBO\n\nHave only had full hook-ups about 2 weeks out of the last 4 months, but the laundry situation isn't a hassle any more.  The combo works - clean clothes in less time.  Was able to use my regular washer this week, but only used it for 3 big loads.  Found I prefer the Wonder Wash for small loads of like things, plus the quick turn-around time of just a few minutes to wash and rinse a load.  Used the spin dryer after each of the regular washer loads, too, and it was remarkable how much soapy water was extracted.  Thanks, Laundry Alternative, for great products.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4864, "id": 218755, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 768, "len_tokens": 992, "text": "Addendum DEC 2015:  Have lived with the fridge for about a year.  Our experience has been good.  Fridge is quiet and problem free so far.  The addition of a 20 pound CO2 tank has been great. Copious amounts of very fizzy water. Did not have any ice maker leaks that other reviewer had.  One little issue arose when quests came and somehow the fridge was placed into showroom or demo mode, shutting off the compressor.  Absolutely no help from the manual.  Fix was to simultaneously  long press top two left buttons, ie., Freezer and Alarm, which turned the compressor back on. Thanks to all the people on the Internet! Why this isn't stated in the manual is idiotic.\n\nOriginal review:\n\nWe bought the counter depth model.  Just the two of us, so it is plenty big.\n\nSo the important thing is my wife loves  sparkling, fizzy, gassy, water by any name.  The original. little, tiny, soda stream CO2 tanks just wouldn't do, so I had a look at it and have now attached a standard  20 pound CO2 tank with regulator, to the refrigerator, stashing the tank in an adjacent cabinet.  Works well !\n\nSo far great fridge, we haven't had any problems, but see other reviews,  all the rest is about CO2:\n\nIf any one is interested, I used 6mm PU tubing, a CO2 regulator and two connectors, to go from the 20 pound CO2 tank to the fridge. Surprisingly simple.  It seems that the soda stream regulator is built into the metallic gas bottle connector, so I just by-passed it, connecting my 6mm tubing, from my regulator,  right into the push to connect fitting in the fridge,  where the tubing from the soda stream originally connected to the fridge. Only a couple of screws need to be removed to access the carbonator and fittings in the fridge.\n\nThe tricky part was routing the tubing through the top of the door.  There is a plate on top of the door, above the dispenser, which when removed, reveals plenty of space, and I drilled from the edge of the door above the handle [ not the hinge side], into this space, through the plastic, down to above the carbonator, and ran the tubing down. All I hit with the drill was foam, but yes, i was a little nervous.\n\nI then ran the tubing back to the hinge along the top of the door,  and underneath the plastic piece on top of the fridge and back to the cabinets.\nThe tubing is covered completely from sight, though if I was to do it again, I would use black tubing instead of orange. Would make routing easier.\n\nSet my regulator to 80 psi originally, but bumped it up to 100 psi.  Works well with about 14 feet of 6mm tubing.  The PU tubing can easily handle these pressures, but is surprisingly flexible.  All parts were bought on Amazon, except 20# tank which was bought locally, filled with CO2, but everything was  about $200. I see Amazon  sells several sizes of CO2 tanks, though, of course, they are empty.  5 or 10 pound tanks may fit cabinets better. Tank has to be upright to get gas out of the top.\n\nThis review is only for educational purposes, and I would never suggest that anyone actually do it.  There is some confusion about CO2 out there though. CO2 is not under the pressures SCUBA tanks are, at least in beverage tanks, maybe 600-800 psi, and after the regulator, about 80-100 psi is used. Beverage type of CO2 is a liquid with an overlying gas phase, and not as dangerous as a SCUBA tank, which is 3000 psi gas [air].\n\nYou have to get a beverage tank, which dispenses gas from the overlying gas phase, and not a \"siphon\"  tank, which dispenses liquid CO2, from the bottom, which the paintball people use to refill their smaller tanks. Under no circumstances should you ever get a high pressure compressed gas CO2 tank.\n\nThe beverage tanks are sold everywhere. Always use a nylon washer between your tank and regulator. Also use flare washers on all flare fittings on the regulator. I went from a flare fitting directly to a 6mm push to connect fitting at the regulator.  Not as complicated as it sounds.  Some companies are making money off of \"food grade\" CO2.  Not necessary. A clean tank is all you need.\n\nI am now looking into a small, post carbonator, sparkling water storage tank, to fit into the original Soda Stream tank space. Haven't figured it out yet.  This space is other wise wasted.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4865, "id": 235470, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 798, "len_tokens": 960, "text": "I have a Whirlpool Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezer, Model ED2YHGXLQ01. I kept finding the refrigerator door open slightly (~1/4\") and thought it was people in a hurry & not bothering to shut the door completely. We made an effort to make sure the door was closed each time; however, I continued to find the door ajar, which caused the refrigerator temperature to be warmer than desired and led to spoiled milk. I also noticed that the top of the refrigerator door was ~ 1/4\" lower than the freezer door. After doing an online search for this problem, I ascertained that I needed to replace the closing door cams on the refrigerator door. I vaguely recalled sweeping up some pieces of broken black plastic at some point and wondered where they'd come from. Its easier to replace the closing cams than one might think.\n\nRemove everything from the shelves in the refrigerator door. Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the refrigerator door by first removing the 5/16\" hex head screw that holds the white plastic cover over the top door hinge parts on the top of the refrigerator. Next, remove the three screws that secure the silver metal plate under the white plastic cover. Do not remove the center screw. Lift off the metal plate, which has a metal post pointing downward that inserts into a hole at the top right of the refrigerator. The door pivots around this metal post. Lay the refrigerator door on a flat surface like the ice chest that you put the food in from the refrigerator door.\n\nThe upper closing cam (P/N W2182179) is located *underneath* the refrigerator door at the bottom right. The black tubular part sticking out of the upper closing cam inserts into a hole at the bottom of the refrigerator door. There is a 5/16\" hex head screw that goes through the hole in the flat part of the closing cam to attach it to the refrigerator door. Once you get the part, you'll be able to see that there are plastic \"teeth\" on the other side of the cam from the black tubular part. The side of the cam with the teeth face downward; these teeth will sit on the teeth of the lower closing cam. I found that there was no longer any upper closing cam on my refrigerator door--mystery of the broken plastic pieces solved. This also explained why the refrigerator door was lower than the freezer door.\n\nThe black plastic lower closing cam (P/N W10329686) is attached to a metal bracket at the bottom right of the refrigerator, just below the refrigerator door. The metal bracket is screwed onto the refrigerator frame (not the door). I did not need to remove this bracket since it was accessible by removing the refrigerator door. The hole in the lower closing cam with the teeth around it slips over the metal post sticking up from the metal bracket. (Teeth side facing up.) A 5/16\" hex head screw goes through the plain hole in the cam without the \"teeth\" around it; this secures the lower closing cam to the metal bracket, which has two holes in it. The screw for the lower closing cam goes through the hole on the left of the bracket (when facing the refrigerator). I called Whirlpool to confirm which hole the screw goes into, but they couldn't provide the information. I found out what hole to use by studying how to videos on YouTube. While the lower closing cam wasn't broken, I went ahead and replaced it as well so the two closing cams were of the same age.\n\nThe how to videos recommended greasing the cams with silicone lubricant grease, which I didn't have. The rep at my local Home Depot found they didn't have any silicone lubricant grease in stock and said I could use WD-40 Silicone Spray instead. I already had some of this so I sprayed it on the cams. Unfortunately, the silicone spray did not provide enough lubrication to allow the teeth of the two cams to slide smoothly across each other as the refrigerator door opened and closed. The door made a loud clunking noise each time it was opened past 90 degrees. It sounded like something was about to break.\n\nI didn't want to wait for an online order so I got some multi-purpose White Lithium Grease from the local hardware store. It was ~$5 for 8 oz which was the smallest size they had. I removed the refrigerator door again and squirted a big blob of white lithium grease on the teeth of the lower cam. After reattaching the door, I found that it opened and closed smoothly and quietly. Repair finally done!\n\nHow-to videos I found helpful on YouTube were:\nPart Select  [...]\nAppliance Part Pros  [...]", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4866, "id": 244029, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 783, "len_tokens": 990, "text": "I have the Freeline Grom, which I liked so much that I got the OG as well.  First I'll discuss Freeline skates in general, then I'll discuss the difference between Grom and OG.\n\nThe OG is very tough.  The deck and truck is one piece cast aircraft-grade aluminum.  It can bear up to 3,000 lbs.  My minor complaint is that the griptape isn't very grippy.  I replaced mine with Vicious Black griptape which I'm pleased with.\n\nLearning to ride Freelines is not as difficult as it may seem. In terms of difficulty, learning Freelines is definitely harder than a casterboard but I found it easier to learn than Orbitwheels or the Skatecycle. It just takes persistence, and a little thought. The trucks don't move so you need to pivot (more like steer) the skates in and out. You should also coordinate the pivoting with the direction that you push each skate. For example, if you're riding regular, and your toes are pointed in, then your left/front leg should push \"up\" (from a birds-eye view) while your right/rear leg should push \"down\" and vice-versa. It took me 3 days of 2 hours each to learn the Freeline to the point of not needing a wall to launch or propel myself, and be able to turn and stop. To be fair, I had been practicing with Orbitwheels for 8 hours total before that.\n\nI found Freelines to be fun to ride. Downhill, it feels a lot like snowboarding, except your feet move independently. Some skates feel squirrelly going downhill, but the Freelines feel stable and I have confidence in their traction. On flats, they also feel good. However, on flats, you do need to maintain a brisk walking speed, or else they will feel hard to pivot. That requires learning techniques to start moving from a standstill (\"zero start\"). I found FLSTeamBushi's video tutorials most helpful.\n\nFreeline skates do take more strength and endurance to ride than let's say inline skating. On inline skates, I can skate for a long while before needing to stop. On the OG, I can currently skate for only a couple of minutes before needing to pause. At that point, the soles of my feet are sore, and my quads are burning (as though I did one long set of many reps). Hopefully, as my technique improves and my muscles grow stronger, I can skate longer.\n\nAs expected, Freelines feel best on smooth surfaces. You can still ride them on rough asphalt, but it's much harder to propel them.\n\nBTW, I also got a pair of fake Freeline skates (branded Sui Xin). The deck looks tough enough (aluminum, but not the same kind as the OG) and it even has optional straps, and flashing wheels. However, the wheels and bearings are absolutely horrible. It takes far more effort to propel them, to the point where I can only go for a few feet (whereas on the Groms and OG, I can skate for a couple of minutes before stopping). They were so bad that I tried changing the bearings to Bones Reds. It was a huge improvement but one of the wheels still would not turn smoothly, and the other wheels would turn only about as much as the Groms' wheels (on normal wheels, Bones Reds should spin more smoothly than ABEC5). With bearings replaced, I can skate only about 30 seconds on the fake Freelines before running out of momentum and leg strength. It still takes much more effort, and it's not as fun as riding the OG or Groms.\n\nGROM VS. OG VS. CRUISER\nAs mentioned, I started out with the Grom and now have the OG as well. I can confirm that the Grom is much easier to propel than the OG. I wasn't sure why (is it the decks? or the wheels? or something else?). I put the OG wheels on the Groms (yes they do fit). I found that with the OG wheels, the modified Grom is actually better. It rolls more smoothly, and it is also a little easier to stay balanced on it. Based on my experiment, it appears that it is the Grom's deck that makes it easier to ride than the OG. That brings me to the Cruiser: I saw a site that showed the Cruiser wheels being 72mm (the size of the OG wheels). If so, then the Cruiser should be better than the Grom because it has the same deck, but has the OG wheels.  I haven't tried the Pro, but because its deck is wood, I suspect it is also easier to propel than the Grom, albeit less durable.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4867, "id": 262133, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 841, "len_tokens": 991, "text": "I'm really glad I bought this little dryer, though I'm not even close to the target demographic. I have a full size laundry set on the lower level of my house (in a dedicated laundry room no less!), but we got the old machines when we bought the house last year, and they were not quite up to my modern laundry diva standards. I'm a terrible housekeeper, but laundry is the only one of the necessary evils of home care that I don't actually hate. My new house also has a little laundry closet upstairs off the master bedroom with room for a compact, stackable washer-dryer set. I bought a nice compact washer for upstairs, but I had two qualms about getting a matching dryer.\n1) Upstairs would be electric, not gas like the main laundry. Our utility rates are amongst the nation's highest, and I don't want to pay that much for drying clothing just because someone is too lazy to walk downstairs to the \"real\" machines.\n2) Upstairs also has the plastic dryer venting going from the closet, through the attic, and outside in an inconvient-to-access place. Eventually, I will replace the fire-hazard plastic venting material, but I don't have the budget to do it now with so many other projects crying out for attention in the new home. Using the 110-V mini Panda dryer must produce less heat, therefore less fire hazard, so so my thinking goes.\n\nI hang a lot of my laundry to dry for environmental reasons (and to save wear and tear on finer fabrics) and my intent was to exclusively line dry with the upstairs compact washer. When my inherited-with-the-house dryer died two weeks ago just as the school year ended, planned parties were about to happen, and my house filled with guests... I ordered the Panda dryer and hoped it could see me through a very busy time while I waited for new household units to arrive.\n\nI would never compare this little dryer to a full size unit. I don't know that it gets as hot, but it does get hot and dry clothing. I didn't try to cram every item I washed into it, but I did have the option to tumble/fluff the stiff-as-a-board items I'd line-dried previously, and it got the job done every time.\n\nBecause it is small and less convenient, I don't think other family members will use this at all, and that suits me perfectly. It will take up less space in my laundry closet, leaving more room to put up a shelf for my detergents and letting me avoid storing those in my bedroom or bathroom.\n\nI also felt that the luxury of having this little guy meant that I could take my time when picking out my new full-sized machines, and it meant I could afford the extra time lag of ordering them from a less expensive source. With NO laundry options at home, I would've purchased any units available for immediate delivery, because I have two messy boys who spend a lot of time outdoors.\n\nI wish the lint filter was easier to clean, but it isn't actually difficult. My mother (one of those houseguests) tells me it is like the ones in the old Maytag dryers she remembers from decades ago.\n\nI wish the supplied venting was metal instead of plastic, but I'm happy that they included the pieces that they did. It was easy for me to set the Panda dryer up on my own and get the vent directed out a window so I could work on my laundry backlog without waiting for help to hang it on the wall where it properly goes.\n\nMy unit came with a faint spot of rust on the exterior top at a seam. I found no evidence of interior rust (that would affect my clothing) so I just accepted it and got on with the laundry. I considered sending it back, but felt that the price was low enough, and my need intense enough, that I could deal with a non-function-impacting defect on the exterior.\n\nI don't usually use the Panda to fully dry wet clothing, but I have done so with lightweight and mid-weight items. I haven't tried to dry jeans from fully wet to bone dry. My expectations have been met. Air dry doesn't result in warm clothes, so I'd say it works as described. Warm, which I use most often, results in pleasantly warm items pulled out. I think I've only set the dryer to hot once, just to be sure the dial worked on every setting, so I don't have a lot to say about that setting.\n\nI wish the dial felt a little more robust, but any rotary dial strikes me as less likely to need repair than any electronic dryer.\n\nI miss the buzzer at the end of the cycle a little bit, but not very much since I'm almost never setting and forgetting laundry upstairs, but rather tumbling nearly dry items that I intend to fold immediately.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4868, "id": 270775, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 804, "len_tokens": 954, "text": "Love my Panda portable washer with spinner. I bought it for our sailboat and it lives on the seat in the shower. We bought the gravity drain machine and I drain it into a 2 gallon bucket then when it's about 3 inches from the top of the bucket I switch the control from drain to wash or straight up and it stops. Then I pour in down the sink and drain another bucket. It's do easy and fast. I used a black magic marker and put a viable line on each control so I know when it's on wash or drain or spin. I usually wash for 3 min and spin for 3 min. It holds alot of clothes. Then after you want spin 1/2 of the load at a time. I bought a great drying rack from. Home Goods that holds a load or more. Clothes dry quickly. Yesterday z I did 3 loads. 1 white and light, one colors and 1 black. Example would be 3 T shirts 2 or 3 pair shorts and 2 Capri plus 5 pair undies and 2 boxer shorts. Only problem has been lint filter falls out. Finally figured it out. When you put it in,  raise the piece on top up with your finger and it will snap in place.  Other hints. The separate piece on the spinner is supposed to be inside the spin tub. Just put it on top of the clothes and turn it sideways to get it out. Also re the soap I learned from another review of Pandas to use 1 tablespoon. I use 2 tbl of liquid Gain  because the machine is bigger. Hint to save water. You can save and reuse your rinse water for your next load of wash. How to use the Panda.  Instructions are not clear. Fill washer 1/2 full with water.  I go to below the lint filter. I fill with the shower sprayer. Tried the fill hose but it doesn't fit the sink spigot well and slips off or I have to hold it. The washer holds about 4 gallons of water. 2 full buckets if you want to fill with a bucket. Be sure the knob is on wash and the bucket with the drain hose is below. More than once I  have left it on rinse and when I think I am filling the tub, It is draining into the bucket. Add clothes and soap and continue filling to top of lint filter. Turn the knob to the number of minutes you want. When done turn the knob to drain. Be sure the drain hose is positioned over the bucket. Since I am in a shower it doesn't matter if a little water spills but you may want this on a kitchen counter or a stool in the bathroom. After the water has drained out fill the tub with rinse water and add a little softener if you like. I use about a tablespoon. Rinse 3 min and drain. Then take half of the clothes and put them in the spinner.  Be sure the hose in in the bucket. Spin for 2 or 3 minutes until no water is coming out the hose. You're done! Takes me about 10 min total for a load.\n\nYou may be deciding which Panda to buy. I read a lot of reviews. I chose the blue one with gravity drain because it was a little smaller than the one with a motorized drain. Since it was going on the shower bench the smaller size fit better. Otherwise I would have picked the motorized drain. You could sit that one flat in the tub and it would still drain. It only cost a little more.  My Panda weighs 43 lbs, too heavy for me. It has fallen over twice in rough waters but I usually have a hamper in the shower ares so it doesn't fall completely over. My husband is going to try to secure it with a strap in the future. Caution. If yours is elevated stay with it during the spin to be sure it doesn't walk or vibrate off of its perch. Mine is also very quiet. We are coming up the ICW now. The Panda is happy on its perch in our shower on the seat. Perfect for boaters. But I recommend securing or putting it on the floor in heavy seas. It says a ton of $, time and effort over taking laundry ashore in dinghy to lsundramat that often is $3.00 per load to wash. I do take sheets and towels except for hand towels and washcloths as I prefer to fluff them in dryer. Could probably get 1 queen sheet in but haven't tried it yet. So I recommend The Panda 100%. Would love a small portable dryer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4869, "id": 270811, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 723, "len_tokens": 925, "text": "I just washed my first loads in my Panda. I live in an apartment without hookups. The complex does have laundry machines, but laundry was costing us around $126 a month. In two months, this little guy will pay for himself. I did use these suggestions from other reviewers:\n\n--Detergent pods diluted with 6 cups of water (I already had the pods. I put the mix in spray bottle to make it easier).\n--Laundry bags (socks do become a mess of tangles)\n--Wash without detergent the first round (I was AMAZED to see how much detergent residue and general filth was pulled out of \"clean clothes\").\n--Fill above the lint trap (the lint trap works fine as long as you fill up the tank a wee bit past the filter).\n--Set on an upturned laundry basket/plastic tote and fill with a hand-shower and drain in the tub (another person's review suggested this and it works great for me. My bathroom is too small to keep it in there permanently). Though, I might beg a buddy into hooking it up in the kitchen for me.\n\nDoes it smell?\n\nThere's a little off-gassing, but it was nothing worse than how my microwave smelled when I bought it.\n\nHow much does it hold?\n\nAbout half of the size of a load for a regular size (not jumbo or oversized) washer. A drawer full of clothes. An 11 year old's clothes for the day (including jacket). ONE pair of work pants (because they're nasty, not because it wouldn't fit two). A dress and undergarments for a full-figured woman. More than I expected.  I haven't tried our oversized towels yet. I do believe it will do one at a time, but I'm considering donating the oversized towels and picking up some smaller, lighter weight ones. A king size sheet and two pillow cases.\n\nHow long does it take?\n\nAll loads, except the nasty work pants and the socks that needed bleaching, were done in 5 minutes of wash time, 5 minutes of rinse time, and 5 minutes of spin time. Expect each load to take 20 minutes or less to do. It's not \"set it and forget it\", but it is pretty close.\n\nHow much does it weigh?\n\nAbout 25-30 lbs. It's totally \"liftable\". If you can pick up a big bag of dog food, you can pick up this little guy. I got him in an out of the tub easily, and I'm not a younger lady anymore.\n\nHow big is it?\n\nThe size of a large plastic tote. About 2-2 1/2 foot square.\n\nWhat are you going to name it?\n\nI'm thinking of naming mine Wilf. Wilf the Butler.\n\nWhat kind of detergent do you use?\n\nHomemade detergents would work GREAT in this machine. That's what I'll be using after I run out of pods. The machine specifies high-efficiency (or low foam) detergents. I used regular, diluted detergent that I spritzed in with a spray bottle. Pre-diluting the soap made it work just fine.\n\nHow strong is it?\n\nAMAZINGLY STRONG! I was surprised by how forcefully it agitated. It is much more powerful than a typical laundry machine, which is why I guess it takes less time to wash.\n\nHow much water does it use?\n\nI think, and this is just a guess, that I used about five gallons per load (soak, bleach, rinse, spin). Probably less on the loads I didn't pre-bleach or need extra rinsing for. USE LESS SOAP AND YOU'LL USE LESS WATER. Next time around I'll probably wash more than one load in the same water, then rinse separately. Remember, more soap doesn't always mean \"more clean\". Soap residue is a big cause of \"dingy\" clothes.\n\nHow dry do the clothes get?\n\nI think they were quite a bit dryer than clothes are when I pull them out of a regular washer. I pinned them up on my dryer rack, pointed a fan at them, and in 45 minutes they were dry (put into perspective, the apartment community's dryers take 60 minutes and returns damp clothes).\n\nIs it worth it?\n\nIf Wilf lives past two months, he'll have paid for himself. If he makes it a whole year, Wilf will put about a thousand dollars back in my pocket. So yes, definately worth it.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4870, "id": 270941, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 544, "len_tokens": 939, "text": "I CANNOT IMAGINE ANYONE SAYING ANYTHING GOOD ABOUT ANY SAMSUNG APPLIANCE.  OUR HOME WAS FLOODED.  WE HAD TO REPLACE ALL OUR KITCHEN APPLIANCES.  WE WERE OUT OF OUR HOME FOR FIVE MONTHS AND I DIDN'T HAVE THE TIME TO RESEARCH THE NEW APPLIANCE'S WE WOULD BUY.  THIS IS NOT LIKE ME.  I ALWAYS RESEARCH ALL LARGE ITEMS THAT WE PURCHASED.  BIG MISTAKE ON MY PART.  SOMEONE TOLD ME ABOUT SAMSUNG BEING GOOD.  I SHOULD HAVE NEVER TAKEN SOMEONE'S ELSE WORD.\nWE BOUGHT A SAMSUNG STOVE, A SAMSUNG DISHWASHER, A SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR, AND A SAMSUNG MICROWAVE.  WE DID NOT PURCHASE THE EXTENDED WARRENTY.  ANOTHER BIG MISTAKE ON OUR PART.  HOWEVER, THERE WAS A TIME YOU DIDN'T NEED IT.  THE APPLIANCES ACTUALLY WORKED FOR MORE THAN A FEW MONTHS.  OUR FIRST ENCOUNTER WITH HOW BAD SAMSUNG APPLIANCES ARE, WHEN THEY DELIVERED OUR STOVE AND PARTS OF IT WERE BROKEN.  OKAY, THING HAPPEN.  THEY REPLACED IT AND WE REALLY HAD NO PROBLEM WITH THAT.  NOW AFTER FOUR MONTHS OUR DISHWASHER HAS PROBLEMS.  THEY SEND SOMEONE OUT TO FIX IT AND IT IS STILL UNDER WARRENTY.  THEY FIX IT.  YES, IT WAS AN INCONVIENCE, BUT IT WAS FIXED.  THAT WAS ALL I CARED ABOUT AT THAT TIME.  NOW THE KNOBS ON THE STOVE START BREAKING.  STILL UNDER WARRENTY AND I GET NEW KNOBS.  NOTING THAT THEY WERE PLASTIC, I KNEW I WAS GOING TO HAVE A CONTINIOUS PROBLEM WITH THE KNOBS AND WE NO LONGER HAD A WARRANTY.  THE KNOBS ARE ABOUT $25.00 APIECE AND THAT IS QUITE A BIT OF MONEY SINCE THEY ARE ALWAYS BREAKING.  FORGET ABOUT THE SELF-CLEANING OVEN.  IT IS AN ABSOLUTE JOKE.  I HAVE HAD SELF-CLEANING OVENS THAT ACTUALLY DO WORK.  THE SAMSUNG DOES NOT SELF-CLEAN.  NEXT OUR DISHWASHER BREAKS AGAIN AND WE HAVE NO WARRANTY.  IT WAS JUST A LITTLE OVER A YEAR OLD.  WHEN WE BOUGHT SAMSUNG WE HAD KNOW IDEA THAT IT SHOULD HAVE A STATEMENT THAT SAY'S \"ONLY WILL LAST ONE YEAR IF YOU ARE LUCKY.\"  WE CALLED A REPAIR MAN OUT TO FIX OUR DISHWASHER AND HE WAS VERY HONEST WITH US.  HE SAID IT WOULD COST MORE TO FIX THE DISHWASHER AS IT WOULD BE TO BUY A NEW ONE.  HE SAID HE HAD BEEN OUT ON SO MANY CALLS WITH SAMSUNG DISHWASHER'S AND KNOW ONE EVER HAS IT REPAIRED.  THEY BUY A NEW DISHWASHER.  WITHIN A FEW DAYS OF THIS GOOD NEWS OUR MICROWAVE GOES OUT ON US AND CAN'T BE FIXED.  DUE TO CONSTRUCTION OF SAMSUNG DIGITAL BOARD.  IT IS AN OVER THE STOVE MICROWAVE AND THE GLUE SAMSUNG USES LOOSENS FROM THE STEAM.  WHY SAMSUNG DIDNT THINK OF THAT, I DO NOT KNOW.  THIS MEANS YOU HAVE TO GET A COMPLETELY NEW DIGITAL BOARD.  AGAIN, WE HAD TO BUY A NEW MICROWAVE.  A NEW DISHWASHER AND NEW MICROWAVE WITHIN A FEW DAYS OF EACH OTHER.  AT THIS VERY MOMENT, I AM ORDERING NEW KNOBS FOR THE RANGE AND ONE OF THE BURNERS DOES NOT WORK.  THE SHELF TO THE REGRIFERATOR CRISPHER KEEPS FLYING OFF.  ANOTHER VERY INCONVIENT THING, BUT WE LIVE WITH IT.  IN ALL HONESTY, DONT BUY SAMSUNG.  I WOULDNT WANT ANYONE ELSE TO DEAL WITH THE PROBLEMS WE HAVE HAD.  DO YOUR RESEARCH,  IT WILL BE WELL WORTH IT TO YOU.\nECA", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4871, "id": 274089, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 794, "len_tokens": 933, "text": "The replacement motor worked but its day 2 and if it goes past 3 mo with no issues, I'll update this review and make it 5 stars.  Couple of things to notice - it looks like a generic not an OEM like others noticed, doesn't include the screws to connect the motor to the drain/hose or the rubber gasket (to prevent water leaking from the coupling)  - so if you are do it yourselfer, save the previous motor, the screws and the gasket. The motor arrived by USPS 2 day priority mail which was a nice touch - thanks.\n\nHere is the learning I went thru and hope it can help someone in a similar predicament (with a Kenmore Elite HE3t). My issue started with water in the drum at the end of cycle and quickly turned into washer stopping mid cycle with door locked and SUD error on display. I tried resetting and restarting a few times but soon the washer stopped spinning with door locked an load of laundry inside.\n\nFirst challenge - unlock the door, remove the laundry and drain the dirty water. I disconnect washer and put some 2x4 sections under the washer to tilt it backwards for easy access to lower panel (2 star screws (secure drill bits not part of regular drill bit sets).  Once the front lower panel is off, you feel your way behind the door lock  till you can feel a little protrusion (about 0.5\") that is almost exactly behind where the lock is. It is not possible to see or target except for touchy-feely way. Once you pull on it downwards the door unlocks.  It helps to have washer tilted so water can stay back in the drum rather than gushing out (you may want a lot rags/towels and a bucket handy). In HE3t there is a wiring harness that obstructs reaching back to motor and drain easily.  If you remove the screws connecting green ground wires to the frame (star security bits) and move the tabs left or right (not up or down) they'll come off the frame.  The wiring harness will still be connected but will allow for you to easily get to the motor.  If you remove the single screw (star bit) at the base holding the motor-hose to the body, it'll come free. HE3T model has drain plug that can come in handy for draining the water into a shallow pan while connected. I removed the rubber hose and the coin trap and washed it (sometimes there is blockage that can prevent drainage causing the error and you may not need to change the motor - there are youtube videos showing how to do this).  In my case, the hose and the coin trap were quite clean which left motor or the pressure switch as the likely culprits.\n\nI read in the reviews here about the pressure switch and the black hose  it is connected to or the clogged drain pipe as other potential culprits and wanted to see if I should clean/inspect them before ordering the motor. I opened the top panel (3 star bit screws in the back) but did not see the white plastic part some one mentioned. You may want to remove the drain hose and see if it is clogged as well. Since my coin trap and rubber hose under the drum was pretty clean, I concluded that drain hose likely may be the same way (clean).  Instead of removing the hose and inspecting I just took a chance by ordering the motor first.  The new motor was quite easy to install (rubber gasket and 3 screws from the old motor to connect new motor to the drain plus coupling, and retracing the steps to put the wiring harness back).  I then tested the drain/spin cycle to see if there were any leaks and the drain motor was doing its job before putting the bottom panel back and removing the 2x4 to get the washer even.\n\nIf you are contemplating buying a motor, you probably are somewhat of a fixer and done some research.  I tend to call repair men mostly for such issues except for I am increasingly finding having to stay home for 4 hr window and waiting for them to show us a tricky trade-off to tinkering myself.  I want to thank the community of people on Amazon and youtube who take the time to share tips and make the time to explain \"how to\" which have been invaluable time savers (not to mention $$ on a call - last time I paid $200 for someone to replace a creaky hinge on the oven door - for 1 min 12 sec of his valuable time).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4872, "id": 280933, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 789, "len_tokens": 937, "text": "Picked up a couple of these sets because I have a 30' long dryer vent run and the duct cleaning company I paid couldn't take care of obvious mildew that had developed in the vent. Initially, there was a really nasty smell (like something crawled up there and died) - after the duct cleaner came out the first time he didn't find anything but got a lot of lint out and sprayed bleach inside. While the really awful smell was now mostly gone, not long after, the mildew smell became pretty noticeable. I don't think the brush the duct cleaning company had was long enough to reach in to get to the trouble spots. He was running a blower and got a lot of lint out but the smell persisted even after he came out a second time and sprayed bleach into the duct with a compressed air gun.\n\nAt this point I decided to DIY it, and I'm glad I did. I initially didn't have a keyless chuck drill around when I got the Deflecto kits so I tried by hand - I put 12' (one kit) down the vent from the laundry room and sure enough as I was pulling it back up the rods were wet with that rank mildew smell. I think this was a result of lint that had gotten wet and stuck to the walls of the duct like paper mache. I finally obtained a drill from an old coworker and went to work. Setting the clutch on 4 (as was recommended by another reviewer) was perfect at least on a Hitachi cordless drill set. I first went in on low gear and from both the laundry room and from the outside exhaust. Probably made 2-3 passes in total then ran an electric 165mph leaf blower duct-taped around the vent from the laundry room. I could still detect the smell so I went in on high gear and several more passes, again using the leaf blower to blow out excess. More stuff came out but the smell was less noticeable. I went ahead and poured about 1/2c-1c of baking soda into the vent and used the leaf blower to blow it through and then hooked the dryer back up. It's been about a week now and there's barely a trace of that mildew smell. I think the combination of going through with the Deflecto kit again and then letting the leaf blower push air and dry out the duct really helped by leaps and bounds.\n\nA few other things to note:\n- There are three 90 (or close to 90) degree bends in the 30ft duct run, which runs underground. It was a bit tricky getting around the first bend the first time but after that it was pretty easy.\n- I didn't tape the rods together as recommended - I felt this would be too tedious since I was screwing/unscrewing each section as I was pushing it in or pulling it out.\n- Go slow but don't hold back on the high speed gear setting (if you have one) - just make sure to set the clutch low and ALWAYS drill/turn clockwise so as to not undo any rods\n- I was scared I'd have issues like a couple others who took pictures, of their rods getting twisted up really badly. This didn't happen - I can only imagine that happening if you go in too aggressively and too fast without using the clutch and trying to drill in a super long section of rod (rather than going piece by piece)\n- I thought with two kits I would see the brush head pop out of the exhaust but I was still 5-6' short\n- I bought a 30' snake cam (by Bluefire) that I was able to use to check on the condition of the vent before/after/in-between each cleaning. This was SUPER useful - I had to attach a small LED flashlight to make it more useful for visibility. But after the duct cleaner did his thing the first time, there were MAGGOTS crawling around inside the duct!\n\nI would highly recommend this for anyone looking to clean out their dryer vents. I should have just bought these from the get-go instead of hiring someone. Now I know... It's also cheaper buying two of these versus the Linteater kit, which runs $28 or so. The difference is that you don't get all the extras/accessories that the Linteater comes with - those extras *may* be useful especially if your ducts are really clogged up. But instead of the extras/accessories you get the extra length with 2 kits. In my case, all I needed was the brush and rods (and extra length).", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4873, "id": 285842, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 627, "len_tokens": 943, "text": "This is a really great cooktop that is well designed, laid out, and extremely functional -- also very easy to use and install.\n\nBurners:\n\nThe center burner is powerful for quick boiling and the 2 simmer (small) burners are great for long slow cooks like tomato sauce or soups etc.  Unlike our previous cook top, the simmer setting truly is a simmer; it doesn't boil whatever you're cooking on the lowest setting so you can leave sauces and soups on for long periods of time like in a slow cooker.\n\nThe two other \"medium\" burners are great for things that you want to get up to a high temperature quickly: things like grilled cheese, pancakes - or for searing meats or frying eggs (the smaller burners will also do the trick just not as quickly).\n\nCleaning:\n\nThe grates just lift off with very little effort to provide easy access for cleaning the burners and/or the grates.  Also the knobs come off easily for cleaning when you're making a greasy mess.  Other reviewers have mentioned a discoloring of the stainless steel after doing some hot cooking; I have experienced none of that whatsoever -- I think Bosch may have fixed that problem because I've done a lot of cooking over the last few weeks with zero discoloration and no cleaning challenges.\n\nAuto-lighting:\n\nThe cooktop lights very quickly automatically and we've had no \"misfires\".  I did purposely blow out burners a couple of times and it automatically re-lights them.\n\nDeficiency:\n\nOne MINOR complaint (minor because I don't think it will ever affect me):  When you're running ALL 5 burners at full throttle, the regulator doesn't have quite enough capacity to allow enough gas through for them to all truly function at 100%: they all turn a bit orange and wavey since there isn't quite enough gas.  I have tried to imagine any and every cooking situation I will be in, and I can't think of a time where all 5 burners will be going full throttle -- there simply isn't enough room behind a cooktop for more than one person - and you'd need at least 2 to tend to 5 boiling or searing pots simultaneously.  It's got plenty of capacity for a few simmer burners, a full throttle main burner, and medium - medium burners.\n\nLuck (Karma?)\n\nBefore ordering this cooktop, we went to the appliance store to buy the weekend before we had installers scheduled.  The rude manager ridiculed and laughed at us for not coming weeks earlier; then tried to sell us a lower quality Electrolux display model for over $1300.  I thought we were in a pickle and would have to buy it, but couldn't get over his snottiness and rude comments -- so instead of buying it then and there, we went home to decide whether or not we would be better off rescheduling the installers as opposed to doing business with a jerk.  I decided to piddle around online and look at reviews - and we lucked out.  We found this cooktop for under 900 bucks and had it delivered 2 days later; in plenty of time for the installers.  SCORE!\n\nExtras:\n\nWe bought a lodge griddle to go with it, and it sets quite nicely on the grates and works well once you figure out how to get the simmer burner and the medium burner on the same sized flame (since they are different sized burners, it's not as easy as putting both on \"medium\" heat).&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Lodge-LDP3-Double-Play-Reversible-Grill-Griddle-9-5-34-x-16-75-34/dp/B002CMLTXG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Lodge LDP3 Double Play Reversible Grill/Griddle, 9.5\" x 16.75\"</a><a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Lodge-LDP3-Double-Play-Reversible-Grill-Griddle-9-5-34-x-16-75-34/dp/B002CMLTXG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Lodge LDP3 Double Play Reversible Grill/Griddle, 9.5\" x 16.75\"</a>\n\nNo wonder this cooktop continues to show up at the top of nearly every ranked list of gas cooktops.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4874, "id": 288663, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 759, "len_tokens": 919, "text": "I am editing this in February 2017.  I bought this washer in June 2014, and it has been working just fine since then.  We do 6 to 8 loads of laundry a week.\n\nMy original review.\nThe Panda machine arrived today. Fast shipping, I ordered Monday, it arrived today.\n\nIt is impressive looking, nicely styled, easy to move around.  Nothing in the way of assembly for the washing machine itself. The only tricky thing was figuring out the somewhat terse instructions about installing the quick connect on the faucet. I finally went with \"trail and error\" on the rubber washers and ended up trying all 3 before one \"fit\".  I still need to work with the connection a bit because it still leaks just a little bit.  The type in the instruction manual is very tiny, I had to fetch my reading glasses to decipher it.  It is needlessly tiny too, since there is plenty of white space.\n\nIt does come with a strong chemical smell.  If I was writing ad copy I would describe it as \"that luxurious new car smell\" except of course that that smell is outgassing volatile chemicals, lol. And after only a couple hours in my kitchen, the whole place stinks so i turned on the whole house fan. Tomorrow it's going onto the back porch for a few days until the smell goes away.  I ran two \"quick\" ten minute wash and rinse cycles, with no clothes, and I used dish detergent, in the hopes that the smell in the tub would go away and it did substantially go away after two wash and rinse cycles, no clothes. But the exterior and hoses appear to be the continuing source of of the chemical smells.\n\nThe tub seems roomy.\n\nIt was amazingly quiet while going through its quick wash and rinse cycles.  it is fully automated, unlike the smaller and older model that is #1 in this small apartment washer category, you can set it and forget it.  You need to make sure the drain hose is secured in the sink. I neglected that detail but fortunately I was in the kitchen when the drain hose hopped out of the sink onto the floor. Oops. So I put it back and tucked it between the water hose and the faucet and it stayed there securely.\n\nIt did come with some water in it, which I heard sloshing around as I walked it into the kitchen from the front porch.  It wasn't too heavy for me to do that (and I'm 62).\n\nThe promised dolly to move the washer around with is not a Panda product.  It comes in a separate box. and the instructions appear to be in a charming prose consiting of English words in what I bet is Chinese word order, lol. . . I quote. . .\n\n\"(1) In the prescribed length (62 x 62 cm) and bearing weight (128 kg) for use. (2) Before installation on the pipe centerline draw, resize to pull out the red line as the center of symmetry support plate, the last screw. (3) If there are 2 directional wheels, directional wheel mounting direction to be consistent. When using 2 directional wheel in the back, brake wheel and regulating towards the front.\"\n\nEtc.  And all the wheels appear to be \"directional\", I'm guessing, but each of them rotates 360 degrees, none of them are fixed in a particular direction.\n\nFortunately, looking at the pieces inside the box, it appears to be fairly straightforward, four sections to put together using 8 heavy screws and four wheels. And there are 8 holes for the screws and 4 holes for the wheels so the instructions notwithstanding, it seems fairly simple to put together.  The final size is adjustable.\n\nSo I am going to go ahead and give it a four star rating and maybe eventually five.  It seems to be working as described, I who am a mechanical dunce managed to get it out of the box and hooked up and working and look set to figure out the movable dolly that it comes with.\n\nIt is the quietest washer I've ever come across.\n\nNext day. . .\nThe next day, most of the chemical smell was gone so I didn't exile it to the back porch. instead, I did my first load of laundry, 9 shirts, which loosely filled the tub. Product worked like a charm, and it was still quiet with the clothes in the tub.\n\nEdited 7-31-14 to give it a five star rating.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4875, "id": 288843, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 821, "len_tokens": 921, "text": "WE bought the Samsung also from HH Gregg about three weeks ago.  HH Gregg delivered it and it was set up.  As with most refrigerators he made sure it went on (basically the lights came on) then left.  The unit never cooled down.  We went back to the store and looked at their model.  They explained it was in store mode and we learned how to unlock it.  But the store unit did nothing either.\n\nOurs was  unlocked so that was not the problem.  So we called Samsung and they said it was 10 days to get someone out there.\nHH Greggsaid this is not acceptable and they brought another unit.  The second unit worked on the bottom and the ice cube maker but the main refrig never worked.  As a result we called and they scheduled a repair.  Again 10 days but since we had called on the first unit they moved us up to what would have been our first service date.  We waited for that.  On the day they were to come out and we had taken time to be home they called and said that since it was new we should take it back to the store and get a new one.\n\nAgain HH Gregg said sure and set up another delivery.  We waited for our Sunday afternoon delivery and about an hour before it was to arrive we got a call saying that the truck people did not tie it down properly and it fell over and hit a range and the floor and was destroyed.  Not Samsungs fault other than not giving us a working one first time out.\n\nHH Gregg sent us another one and it arrived and again the technician could not get it to work properly.\nwe tried programming it and other things then in the instructions it kinda says that the machine does not always work right and to try to unplug and replug it in,  It takes about a half hour to see changes so we did this a number of times and it went down to 43 degrees.  Did it again went up to 50 degrees did it again and it went to 34 and has been working since.\n\nReal Flakey.  I am afraid if the power goes out that it may not work again.  Have the great almighty Samsung tech coming out hopefully although they have not called back yet to schedule a time and we have a repair person to come out hopefully this Tuesday to check all the wires.  I am guessing the problem is in the wiring harnesses at the connectors as wiggling the wires help to make the unit work at least that is how the light on the water filler and ice cube dispense section got fixed by the technician.\n\nI am going to have them go over all connections.  It appears that when they take off the doors to install it is then a crap shoot on whether it will work again or not.\n\nSamsung when I call always says ok I will put it in the notes.  But when asked will they pass this on to anyone the answer is no.\nI asked for a supervisor but they were not available.  Asked for the phone number to the office of the president and it took over a half hour to get it.\n\nAlso asked for a Local Samsung rep they had no idea if they even had reps.\n\nHH Gregg is to be commended in all they went through on this without any questions and without looking at us as if we were nuts\nAlso helped that their in store unit also does not work and their Samsung rep could not get it to work either. Their unit says 18 degree C for the upper unit which is probably correct.  -21 degree C for the lower left which is wrong since the unit is not cooling and the lower right at 0 degree C which again is wrong since it is not cooling all compartments are at 18 degrees or so C.\n\nEven had an HH Gregg employee come over and try to get it to work.\n\nHH Gregg I give 5 stars Samsung got one only because I had to click at least one.\n\nCool refrigerator with all the features but at this point we do not trust it.\n\nThe previous person is correct it does hold temperature well the question is if we have a power shortage will it go back to the pre set or will it go back to factory where its not set.  Hope the repair person knows\nalso having problems finding the sparkling water co2 canister I am sure I will find it on Amazon or somewhere its not at the store.\n\nSamsung you do not know what customer service is.\n\nMost expensive refrigerator they have and no one knows why so many are defective.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4876, "id": 301171, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 811, "len_tokens": 985, "text": "I'm so excited about this purchase which is a lifesaver for my family's busy lifestyle. I said goodbye to rewashing loads of clothes because we forgot to move the clothes to the dryer. This is a modern version of a washer/dryer and is what busy families need! I read lots of reviews before making this huge purchase and noted helpful hints many have mentioned.\n\nThe most common complaint I saw during my search was that it doesn't dry the clothes....Solutions to this issue included changing the dry setting to \"more dry\" and also letting gravity work for you in regards to the drain pipe.\n\nI bought a pedestal to elevate the washer as well as a drain extension hose which sold as a \"dish washer drain hose\" at any big box hardware store and costs less than $15. It is important to note that the drain hose needs to go from the machine, align the floor a short distance, and then go up to the drainage pipe. Please see manual for a visual. The hose that comes with it is too short in my opinion. But the extension fit like a charm.\n\nMy very first test load washed and dried perfectly. Initially upon opening the door the clothes felt damp. But just as others have stated once you remove them and shake/spread them out the clothes are instantly dry. My mouth fell open. It's truly amazing to have an all in one. I despise washing laundry and I'm actually excited to do it now!\n\nThe machine has some really cool bells and whistles and even plays a song when the load is complete.\n\nI'm in love with my washer :) my husband is jealous!\n\nUPDATE: 6 weeks later...\n\nI still standby my review this machine is amazing! I no longer have \"laundry days\". The hampers stay practically empty nowadays. Laundry is no longer a chore. It just gets done!\n\nExample:\nAfter my 12 hr shift and wearing my last set of scrubs... laundry is the last thing I want to do. But with this machine I can pop the clothes in, program the timer and get ready for bed and wake up to warm clean-dry scrubs.\n\nMy clothes are cleaner than they've ever been! I now only use the \"more dry\" setting when drying bulky items or a heavy load. The \"normal dry\" setting is just fine. If I pull the clothes out immediately after the load ends I have to let the heat escape before touching because the clothes are SO hot.\n\nOne downside is jeans (particularly my 8 year old son's) come out wrinkled. I'm carefree and usually just fold or wear straight out of the dryer. Now I have to occasionally use the iron :( but just occasionally ;)\n\nThe drum of the machine is VERY large! People may be tempted to fill it all the way. But I only fill it half way using the marker on side. Sometimes I test the limits but just slightly.\n\n*TIP #1*-Buy all purpose cleaning wipes and use between loads to make cleaning the rubber door seal easy. ;)\n\n*TIP #2*-Liquid fabric softener appears to decrease wrinkles (had no idea...but I definitely see a difference)\n\n*TIP #3*-If you don't think you'll be home when the load ends press and hold the \"Fresh Care\" button at start up and it will tumble the load every few minutes for hours keeping your clothes wrinkle free until you can unload them.\n\n*TIP #4*- Customize and program your favorite load settings apart from the default settings. My 8 yr old can now wash and dry a load of laundry with the push of 1 button!! (Well...2 if you count the power button Lol)\n\nOverall, I would purchase this machine over and over a thousand times. It's like having a personal assistant. Perfectly fits our family's busy lifestyle!\n\nONE YEAR LATER...1/29/17\n\nI still pat myself on the back for this purchase! We recently bought a house and took this with us and gave away the set that came with the house! It transported well.  NO mechanical issues at all (knock on wood). I have all the hook ups for a regular washer and dryer but I'll NEVER do that again. Way more work than it's worth! Still a VERY happy camper!!\n\nTWO YEARS LATER 7/9/18\n\nNo problems with this machine at all...no matainance required! Super convenient...I may not be as motivated as 2 years ago lol but its still nice to put a load of dirty clothes in and get out a load of dry clothes!  Now if only there was a machine that fold as well Id be sold !  I updated the picture to this review about a year ago but I just want to point out that theres a deep freezer next to my washer/dryer. Definite space saver as well!! Still highly recommended ", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4877, "id": 303838, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 795, "len_tokens": 959, "text": "I have a Whirlpool Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezer, Model ED2YHGXLQ01. I kept finding the refrigerator door open slightly (~1/4\") and thought it was people in a hurry & not bothering to shut the door completely. We made an effort to make sure the door was closed each time; however, I continued to find the door ajar, which caused the refrigerator temperature to be warmer than desired and led to spoiled milk. I also noticed that the top of the refrigerator door was ~1/4\" lower than the freezer door. After doing an online search for this problem, I ascertained that I needed to replace the closing door cams on the refrigerator door. I vaguely recalled sweeping up pieces of broken black plastic at some point and wondered where they'd come from. Its easier to replace the closing cams than one might think.\n\nRemove everything from the shelves in the refrigerator door. Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the refrigerator door by first removing the 5/16\" hex head screw that holds the white plastic cover over the top door hinge parts on the top of the refrigerator. Next, remove the three screws that secure the silver metal plate under the white plastic cover. Do not remove the center screw. Lift off the metal plate, which has a metal post pointing downward that inserts into a hole at the top right of the refrigerator. The door pivots around this metal post. Lay the refrigerator door on a flat surface like the ice chest that you put the food in from the refrigerator door.\n\nThe upper closing cam (P/N W2182179) is located *underneath* the refrigerator door at the bottom right. The black tubular part sticking out of the upper closing cam inserts into a hole at the bottom of the refrigerator door. There is a 5/16\" hex head screw that goes through the hole in the flat part of the closing cam to attach it to the refrigerator door. Once you get the part, you'll be able to see that there are plastic \"teeth\" on the other side of the cam from the black tubular part. The side of the cam with the teeth face downward; these teeth will sit on the teeth of the lower closing cam. I found that there was no longer any upper closing cam on my refrigerator door--mystery of the broken plastic pieces solved. This also explained why the refrigerator door was lower than the freezer door.\n\nThe black plastic lower closing cam (P/N W10329686) is attached to a metal bracket at the bottom right of the refrigerator, just below the refrigerator door. The metal bracket is screwed onto the refrigerator frame (not the door). I did not need to remove this bracket since it was accessible by removing the refrigerator door. The hole in the lower closing cam with the teeth around it slips over the metal post sticking up from the metal bracket. (Teeth side facing up.) A 5/16\" hex head screw goes through the plain hole in the cam without the \"teeth\" around it; this secures the lower closing cam to the metal bracket, which has two holes in it. The screw for the lower closing cam goes through the hole on the left of the bracket (when facing the refrigerator). I called Whirlpool to confirm which hole the screw goes into, but they couldn't provide the information. I found out what hole to use by studying how to videos on YouTube. While the lower closing cam wasn't broken, I went ahead and replaced it as well so the two closing cams were of the same age.\n\nThe how to videos recommended greasing the cams with silicone lubricant grease, which I didn't have. The rep at my local Home Depot found they didn't have any silicone lubricant grease in stock and said I could use WD-40 Silicone Spray instead. I already had some of this so I sprayed it on the cams. Unfortunately, the silicone spray did not provide enough lubrication to allow the teeth of the two cams to slide smoothly across each other as the refrigerator door opened and closed. The door made a loud clunking noise each time it was opened past 90 degrees. It sounded like something was about to break.\n\nI didn't want to wait for an online order so I got some multi-purpose White Lithium Grease from the local hardware store. It was ~$5 for 8 oz which was the smallest size they had. I removed the refrigerator door again and squirted a big blob of white lithium grease on the teeth of the lower cam. After reattaching the door, I found that it opened and closed smoothly and quietly. Repair finally done!\n\nHow-to videos I found helpful on YouTube were:\nPart Select[...]\nAppliance Part Pros [....]", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4878, "id": 303868, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 868, "len_tokens": 951, "text": "I purchased this kit from another amazon listing but I wanted to share this info because it would have saved me some time.\n\nAfter some research this seems to be the only diy option for repairing your w10377151 ice maker. Like many other victims, my ice maker blew a pin clip within the control board where it hooks to the heater element. Although there is an interesting youtube video of someone making this fix with a bullet casing, I figured I would go the more common route of replacement. Like many other reviewers, I was hoping to find a plug and play ice maker assembly that could just be popped in and done. This isn't the case as I believe the manufacturer has changed its design after realizing the fatal flaw. Be aware because of this design change the new assembly will have the dial on the front and a white water cup instead of the blue one. This is supposedly an upgrade and will work as a replacement. Also, the new part number on the item will say w10300024 which denotes the repair kit. This does not mean you received the wrong part.\n\nUnfortunately, this redesign involves replacing the wiring harness. Two separate wiring harnesses are included but you only need one. You can quickly identify which one is needed by comparing the wire colors and connectors to the one that is currently installed on your ice maker. The new one should almost be identical. Also included are two plastic covers. One has a hole cut in it for the power switch and one does not. This is because some models have the power turned on from the front panel of the refrigerator. If, like me, your ice maker has a power switch, you will have to transfer this over from the old cover to this one.\n\nAlso included in this kit is the metal portion of the fill level arm. This arm is a different shape than my original one. My kit did not come with instructions so I was unsure of which one to use. Since it is provided with the kit, I assumed it was the correct one to use. They do not include the plastic flapper piece, so this will have to be transferred over from the old one. After installing the new arm, I realized that it did not allow the arm to be moved up and down like the one on the old ice maker. I put the old arm back on and found that although I was still unable to move the arm down, I was able to click it up into another position. This reminded me of a different style of ice maker where you would lift the lever up to permanently shut it off and click it back down to turn it back on. Since this ice maker has its own power switch, I determined that this may be why this kit includes a new arm that is bent differently and does not allow this movement. This also may be why another reviewer had an issue where he had to reset the ice maker each time it made a full bin of ice. So I put the new arm back on and hoped for the best.\n\nAs for the harness transfer, like others have said, as long as you take pictures you should be able to transfer the harness without much difficulty. I have attached the pictures I took in case anyone misses that step and ends up stuck. I also put some automotive style terminal dielectric grease on most of the connector contacts to try to prevent corrosion. I also opened up the front of the control box and applied some grease to those pins as well to further attempt the original issue from repeating itself. This was a fairly new ice maker so not many of the connections were corroded, but I did notice some on the on off switch located on the front cover.\n\nI slid the ice maker back in, gave it an extra push to get it past the water line, reconnected the connector, turned it on, pressed the door closed button and heard the wonderful sound of the ice maker filling. A little over an hour later the machine dropped its first batch of ice. Success!\n\nIn case you were wondering, after powering the unit up, the fill arm dropped to the expected position and all is well.\n\nAlso, the hardest part for me in the whole evolution was trying to figure out how to disconnect the main connector prior to removing the maker from the fridge. All you need to do is press on the center of the ice maker side of the connector where the tab is and the connector will pop right off. I will not disclose everything I tried before figuring this out.\n\nAnother note, don't get discouraged if after completing the transplant and flipping the power switch to no avail, remember that, at least in my case, the door needs to be closed in order for the magic to happen. You can bypass this by pressing in the button that tells the fridge the door is closed.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4879, "id": 313117, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 843, "len_tokens": 966, "text": "\"LG\" means \"Life's Good\" and trust me when I say that this washer and dryer has just made my life much easier. Life really is good when you have pedestals to raise the washer and dryer to a Laundromat type level. It is so much easier to get wash in and out of the washer and dryer. Before I was really having trouble with my old washer and dryer, mostly because the buttons were not working right and it was difficult to get clothes out of the washer and into the dryer.\n\nNow as far as research goes I read all about this set before I bought it. It had all the fun features I knew I'd love. But it was a surprise when I heard all the cute sounds this washer and dryer make. There are little tunes that are played at the end of the cycles which makes me happy. It is so much better than an annoying beeping sound.\n\nI would have to say that \"user friendly\" is an understatement when talking about how easy this set is to use. With just a few turns of a knob and the pressing of a few buttons you can customize your experience. I have tried about ten options on the washer so far but there are even more to try. You can do regular cycles like cotton or perma press or delicates. There are also cycles for towels and whites. If you have allergies you will love the allergiene cycle which does take about an hour and a half but leaves sheets very, very clean. There is also a sanitary cycle a heavy duty cycle and speed wash cycle. I tried the speed wash cycle and it was only fifteen minutes. This was handy as I just needed to wash a few items. Now I don't have to wait for my favorite clothes. I can wash and dry them very quickly.\n\nThe only cycle I had issues with on the washer was the perma press cycle with cold water. I tried washing my husband's and my clothes together and with cold water the scent of his deodorant got on all my clothes. So next I did a prewash (with Clorox 2) and extra rinse and used warm water. That turned out great and my clothes were fresh and clean. So I don't think I'll be using cold water as much with this machine. The washer also has a rinse and spin cycle but not a simple spin cycle.\n\nThe only thing I had trouble washing so far was a very heavy flannel duvet/comforter cover. It simply would not spin. So I had to wring it out in the bathtub and finally got enough water out of it so I could put it in the dryer. So when they say \"bulky\" items not everything heavy is going to work. But small blankets came out great. Like the kind you use on a baby's bed or cat bed.\n\nThe washer also has a child lock option for if you have small kids. There is also an option to customize a cycle. So if you do a similar kind of laundry all the time this will save you some time as it saves your cycle and remembers it.\n\nThe dryer is also very easy to use. You can turn a knob to select steam, small load, heavy duty, bulky/large, perm press, delicates, towels, speed dry and air dry. There is also a way to download another cycle of your choice. Both the washer and dryer work with cell phones. You can select a cycle and then change the dry level, temperature, time and signal. The dryer comes with a rack so you can dry shoes or delicates that you have to lay flat. There is an easy iron option if you don't want clothes you want to iron to dry completely before ironing. And there is a cool wrinkle care option that will tumble clothes longer until you get the chance to get them out of the dryer.\n\nWhat I really like about both the washer and dryer is the indicator symbol lights. You always know how much time is left and you can see a little symbol that tells you how far along the cycle is. There is also a child lock feature on the dryer. The dryer also has a custom setting for your favorite cycle. For safety there is a little \"flow sense duct blockage sensing system.\"\n\nReally this washer and dryer have it all. Just make sure to really read the manuals before using. There are some safety issues like you want to disconnect the power when cleaning the filter on the washer, etc. The dryer filter is also very easy to clean.\n\nIf housekeeping seems like drudgery to you trust me when I say that once you get this washer and dryer laundry will become fun again. What was the most fun was fluffing up my feather pillows on air dry. That only took a few minutes.\n\n~The Rebecca Review", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4880, "id": 321778, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 193, "len_tokens": 933, "text": "Along lasting reliable water filter. I love the date labels that easily reminds me when to replace it.\n\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/GE-Z-Wave-Smart-Switch-for-Large-Appliances-40-Amp-Direct-Wire-Indoor-Outdoor-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">GE Z-Wave Smart Switch for Large Appliances, 40 Amp, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor, 12726</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/3X-GE-SMART-WATER-FILTER-for-MWF-GWF-MWFP-WF287-HWF-Replacement/dp/B01E85LYNO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">3X GE SMART WATER FILTER for MWF GWF MWFP WF287 HWF Replacement</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Rachio-Smart-Sprinkler-Controller-8-Zone-2nd-Generation-Works-with-Amazon-Alexa/dp/B01D1NMLJU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Rachio Smart Sprinkler Controller, 8 Zone 2nd Generation, Works with Amazon Alexa</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/GE-MWF-SmartWater-Compatible-Refrigerator-Water-Filter-Cartridge-by-OnePurify/dp/B01N43YVFE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">GE MWF SmartWater Compatible Refrigerator Water Filter Cartridge by OnePurify</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Package-Of-4-WaterSentinel-WSG-1-GE-SmartWater-MWF-Compatible-Filter-Cartridge/dp/B00FKFLTE6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">(Package Of 4) WaterSentinel WSG-1 GE SmartWater MWF Compatible Filter Cartridge</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/GE-MWF-SmartWater-Compatible-Water-Filter-For-Refrigerator-Pack-of-9/dp/B01FG62R4E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">GE MWF SmartWater Compatible Water Filter For Refrigerator Pack of 9</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/GE-MWF-GWF-GWFA-MWFA-HWFA-and-HWF-Compatible-Replacement-Refrigerator-Water-Filters-3-with-Genuine-br-KleenWater-Can-Holders-2/dp/B00OPB73P0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">GE MWF, GWF, GWFA, MWFA, HWFA and HWF Compatible Replacement Refrigerator Water Filters (3) with Genuine\nKleenWater Can Holders (2)</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/2-Pack-Best-GE-MWF-Water-Filter-Smartwater-Compatible-Cartridge-for-GE-Refrigerators-Ice-Makers-Compatible-with-General-Electric-MWF-GWF-GWFA-MWFA-Fridge-Filters/dp/B01BUIMY0O/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">2 Pack - Best GE MWF Water Filter Smartwater Compatible Cartridge for GE Refrigerators & Ice Makers - Compatible with General Electric MWF, GWF, GWFA, MWFA Fridge Filters</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/3-GE-MWF-SmartWater-Compatible-Refrigerator-Water-Filters-Designed-by-FilterBuy-to-replace-GE-MWF-GWF-GWFA-GWF01-GWF06-MWFA/dp/B01D3RDQU2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">3 - GE MWF SmartWater Compatible Refrigerator Water Filters. Designed by FilterBuy to replace GE MWF, GWF, GWFA, GWF01, GWF06, MWFA.</a>", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4881, "id": 322098, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 745, "len_tokens": 915, "text": "I wish I could no star or zero star.  Do not buy any LG refrigerators AT ALL.  Go and buy either Whirpool or Kenmore.  I spend $2300 in 2011 and I am still paying on it.  The door hinge in the middle was showing problem on day 1.  I eventually called a few days after a year one and I had go through hoops to get that fixed for free as they kept on telling me about 1 year warranty.  Then February this month, the refrigerator and freezer stopped cooling.  Even if it is worldwide company, they are of course close on Sat-Sun which meant my food started rotting.  I was lucky enough to have a small refrigerator in the garage which came to use.  I called the 1-800 number and it gave me 5 - so called authorized local repair houses.  When they heard that may be condenser or any of the cooling HW was bad - all except one REFUSED to repair the refrigerators.  And by the way this is LP authorized person!!  One guy came out charged $130 for a visit and told me that these refrigerators are extremely hard to repair.  LG uses to foam to cover everything and finding leaks is a major hassle.  This Portland OR guy who is LG authorized dealer tells me that it could 2-3 trips if the parts are not available or if he cannot find the problem and has to keep on testing.  Mind you the condenser and other parts have a 7 year warranty with labor extra.  BUT, even if that is true, no one - and I tried repair shops in OR and WA, would every want to repair LG refrigerators.  So, there is warranty but no repairman wants to come and repair.  The only shop that wanted to come told me that repairs would run $1000-$1200 on top of his first visit charge.  That is half of the cost of the refrigerator.  I called LG 7-8 times.  I was always on hold.  When I could talk to a person, they told me that they could not do anything.  I told them about the episodes with repair shops and requested that they send LG representative and they would not.  I told them I wanted to talk to the supervisor, and they would tell me that I could not to them (they were busy).  When I insisted, they put me (90-120 min hold each time) and the supervisor gave the same - this is our policy and we cannot help.  I told her that my last refrigerator worked (Kenmore) for 22 years and the only reason I bought a new one was for energy efficiency and because the some of shelves were broken and damaged and spares were hard to come by.  In total, I must have spent close 15-18 hours on the phone mostly on hold.  it is quite irritating that when the phone was answered they say LG - LIfe is Good and life has not been good.  LG is Korean company and they do not give two hoots about satisfying the customer.  If spares + labor takes half of refrigerator, there is something wrong with the car.  LG DOES NOT STAND BY ITS CUSTOMERS.  There is no intention of helping.  They have no authorized LG refrigerator repair people and if there are none of the OR and WA people wanted to come.  They told me these refrigerator are piece of garbage.  They told me even they have problems working with LG to get parts which takes for ever and that's the reason for 2-3 visits because first part does not fix it they have come again and again as their computer does not even pin point where the cause is.  It has to be serial process one by one - process of cause elimination.  In Summary, I wasted $2300 on LG 3 door French refrigerator.  If you want to be in the same situation, go ahead and spend your money.  My suggestion is get an American built - Frigidaire, or Kenmore, and Whirlpool and not even entertain the idea of LG.  I am not pissed and I am just sad when a company that says \"life is Good\" treats it customers so poorly.  They will throw some policy in your face while the real policy should be to delight customers.  I will never go again near LG and will strongly suggest any of my friends to do the same.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4882, "id": 322322, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 745, "len_tokens": 915, "text": "I wish I could no star or zero star.  Do not buy any LG refrigerators AT ALL.  Go and buy either Whirpool or Kenmore.  I spend $2300 in 2011 and I am still paying on it.  The door hinge in the middle was showing problem on day 1.  I eventually called a few days after a year one and I had go through hoops to get that fixed for free as they kept on telling me about 1 year warranty.  Then February this month, the refrigerator and freezer stopped cooling.  Even if it is worldwide company, they are of course close on Sat-Sun which meant my food started rotting.  I was lucky enough to have a small refrigerator in the garage which came to use.  I called the 1-800 number and it gave me 5 - so called authorized local repair houses.  When they heard that may be condenser or any of the cooling HW was bad - all except one REFUSED to repair the refrigerators.  And by the way this is LP authorized person!!  One guy came out charged $130 for a visit and told me that these refrigerators are extremely hard to repair.  LG uses to foam to cover everything and finding leaks is a major hassle.  This Portland OR guy who is LG authorized dealer tells me that it could 2-3 trips if the parts are not available or if he cannot find the problem and has to keep on testing.  Mind you the condenser and other parts have a 7 year warranty with labor extra.  BUT, even if that is true, no one - and I tried repair shops in OR and WA, would every want to repair LG refrigerators.  So, there is warranty but no repairman wants to come and repair.  The only shop that wanted to come told me that repairs would run $1000-$1200 on top of his first visit charge.  That is half of the cost of the refrigerator.  I called LG 7-8 times.  I was always on hold.  When I could talk to a person, they told me that they could not do anything.  I told them about the episodes with repair shops and requested that they send LG representative and they would not.  I told them I wanted to talk to the supervisor, and they would tell me that I could not to them (they were busy).  When I insisted, they put me (90-120 min hold each time) and the supervisor gave the same - this is our policy and we cannot help.  I told her that my last refrigerator worked (Kenmore) for 22 years and the only reason I bought a new one was for energy efficiency and because the some of shelves were broken and damaged and spares were hard to come by.  In total, I must have spent close 15-18 hours on the phone mostly on hold.  it is quite irritating that when the phone was answered they say LG - LIfe is Good and life has not been good.  LG is Korean company and they do not give two hoots about satisfying the customer.  If spares + labor takes half of refrigerator, there is something wrong with the car.  LG DOES NOT STAND BY ITS CUSTOMERS.  There is no intention of helping.  They have no authorized LG refrigerator repair people and if there are none of the OR and WA people wanted to come.  They told me these refrigerator are piece of garbage.  They told me even they have problems working with LG to get parts which takes for ever and that's the reason for 2-3 visits because first part does not fix it they have come again and again as their computer does not even pin point where the cause is.  It has to be serial process one by one - process of cause elimination.  In Summary, I wasted $2300 on LG 3 door French refrigerator.  If you want to be in the same situation, go ahead and spend your money.  My suggestion is get an American built - Frigidaire, or Kenmore, and Whirlpool and not even entertain the idea of LG.  I am not pissed and I am just sad when a company that says \"life is Good\" treats it customers so poorly.  They will throw some policy in your face while the real policy should be to delight customers.  I will never go again near LG and will strongly suggest any of my friends to do the same.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4883, "id": 322323, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 762, "len_tokens": 906, "text": "I'm sure the other reviewers received a working product. I did too, for the first few days. However, I had to have a service guy come out within the first week the fridge was delivered because the CustomChill door temperature selector buttons stopped working and the freezer drawer light doesn't work. The issue appears to be with the electronics or wiring. The technician has been out 3 times, and the problem still isn't fixed. To note, it's been a month and a half since the first visit. He has to contact LG directly while here because they haven't released the specs to technicians. After 2 part swaps, the issue remains. He said I should be getting a call from LG soon. I hope it's to replace the fridge.\nWe bought the fridge to replace a 14 year old 26cu ft KitchenAid side-by-side because we wanted something more energy efficient. I was hesitant because the new models (from any manufacturer) have a lot of plastic pieces and metal-on-plastic pieces. This means those parts will wear out quicker and you (the consumer) will have to pay to fix them or buy a new fridge. Since it was on all similar models, we decided to go with LG because of overall reviews. The compressor probably will last since it's mechanical and LG puts a long warranty on it. We were a little disappointed with all the plastic because of the high price.\nThe door-in-door is nice, but you have to really push on it to get it to stay closed instead of just swinging it closed. As annoying as it is, keep the door alarm activated. This has saved us from leaving the door-in-door open because it didn't close. Plan on two hand use for the ice and water dispensers. The water dispenser symbol will inevitably get scratched off soon because it's only painted on instead of etched in. The paint on ours already has some chips on it - again, cost savings for LG. The ice machine is small, and cubes have a tendency to build up in front of the sensor. This causes the machine to stop making ice because it senses the bucket is full, but it is not. This happens 2-3 times a week and always on the side closest to the door hinges. I recommend checking it often and knocking the ice down. The ice machine makes the left door stick out farther, so be sure to have plenty of room to open it fully. Otherwise, you can't reach in to grab items in the back of the fridge. Inside the fridge, there's plenty of room, and the space is configurable. The shelves are sturdy and can handle heavy items without flexing. The fridge compartment is also deep. My wife is 5'3\" and can't reach to the back of the top shelves.\nI can't comment on the CustomChill drawer because we can't change the temperature, and we have no idea what the temperature is because the lights don't work. The sliding dividers are a nice option though to keep meats and other products separated.\nThe freezer has 2 other drawers in there. However, this results in only a 10-inch clearance in the main compartment. I can't stand bottles up because of this. We spend a lot more time digging around for things too because the main compartment is deep and extend underneath the other drawers. Also, there is nothing filtering out the moisture in the air. Everything has ice crystals on the outside.\nThe enormous size of the fridge presented problems when the delivery guys were trying to get it into my house. They had to pull out the drawers and take off the front door handles. Then, they had to open the doors and pivot the fridge through 34\" wide doorway openings. Something to remember if you ever plan on getting it OUT of your house.\nOverall, we still have mix feelings about the fridge since we haven't noticed any decrease in this month's electric bill. The broken CustomChill drawer also colors our opinion of the fridge. Couple that with the liberal use of plastic-on-plastic and plastic-on-metal parts, and it's only a matter of time before new parts are needed (or a new fridge). The cost of the fridge is too much for this fact. However, I do want to reiterate again, that all the other fridges from other manufacturers did the exact same thing. Hopefully, this review provides some insight for those searching for a new fridge. If you want this one, then buy it on sale.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4884, "id": 330020, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 895, "len_tokens": 994, "text": "When I bought my new house, I got a new refrigerator to go with it. That was three years ago. The freezer is on the bottom with two pull out baskets. It had an ice maker kit that I could add but I did not have the lines installed, and figured I would not use it. Plus, the freezer started having issues less than a year of owning it; it would not defrost and leaked weekly. I repaired that but still was using ice cube trays.\n\nWith pull out baskets, if you lay the ice cube tray flat, it might not be flat when you shut the drawer due to clearance or the tray moving when closing. I got used to never really having ice cubes and they were like gold if I needed them. If someone came over and used one and did not fill up the tray, I thought it was the most selfish thing in the world. How can they not see I have just a handful of ice cubes and not fill out the ones that they took? Yes, it was the bad. Plus, the ice cube in the trays are so big, they did not fit in drinks, only glasses. But I became used to it after awhile. Didnt like it, just accepted it.\n\nWhen I was offered the chance to review this ice maker, I felt like I won the lottery! With the end of a really hot spring and summer around the corner, I could have my own endless supply of ice cubes! No way, it seemed to be to be true. I feared it was going to be too heavy, take up too much room, I figured I was out of luck with ice cubes so I was thinking the worse.\n\nThe day it was delivered, I watched it like a hawk arrive. My UPS guy carried it to the door on his front arm only. So the too heavy part was gone. Well, sort of. He is a muscle head. I picked it up and started to open it. I was not that heavy. I already found a place on the counter for my new favorite accessory. I cleaned out the inside with a warm soapy sponge and wiped it out. I then filled it up to the water level line and my daughter and I sat in chairs waiting to see what was going to happen. It does not make that much noise; we were able to talk as it was running, when the first scoop went up to get the first batch of ice cubes, we look like we never saw ice before. As it scooped it in the basket, we both wanted to try one. Not being patient we took them out with the included scooper and placed them in our drinks. We both love the size of them. We used the large ice cube setting. My daughter loved that her straw would go into the underside of the ice cube and was eating them. You would have thought we never saw an ice cube before. When they were done, we placed them in a small white bowl and placed the bowl in the freezer with the scoop. It was sitting flat on the basket. The ice tray was too long and short to lie down but the bowel was tall and had a small footprint, it fit. The next few days we were able to add them to our drinks. I like adding a few to my already bottled cold coffee. Because of the cylinder shape, they go right into the bottle. My daughter does the same with her Vitamin water, adds them into her drink at the top of the bottle.\n\nI have now owned this for several weeks and I run it once I week and it is enough ice for two people. I have noticed the first ice cubes that come out are not as big and cold so I usually scoop them out. I then wait until the others are done, place them in the bowl and put them in the freezer so we can grab them when we need them.\n\nA few things to note: When running the machine, pull it out from the wall and make sure the fan part has great ventilation. I also make sure I don't have a lot running on the same circuit but it has not been an issue. I used to unplug it shortly after use but notice water was still on the bottom. That is to be expected. However, if I leave it plugged in longer, the water recedes and there is not as much.\n\nI don't know how I lived without this thing. It is my favorite gadget in the kitchen now and my daughter always looks forward to making ice cubes now. I have since moved it off the counter and placed it on a kitchen rack I recently added. It looks gorgeous and does not take up much room. If you have owned a bread machine, it is about the same size but more pleasant to look at.\n\nI could not live without this now. It is used weekly and we are so spoiled by having ice cubes we can ice in our bottled drinks and cups.\n\n*I received a sample unit in for reviewing purposes", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4885, "id": 334318, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 718, "len_tokens": 915, "text": "We bought this Panda Tumble Dryer (8.8lbs version) a few weeks ago.\nOrdered it very shortly after we received the Panda Twin Tub 10lb washer/spinner.\n\nAnd we love it.\n\nMy wife and I live in Manhattan, and set up our Panda Washer/Spinner in the closet next to our bathroom.\nAfter cleaning out the closet, we managed to make space for the dryer as well, and it has officially become our personal laundry room.\n\nI was initially concerned that this 8.8lbs capacity dryer would be too small, since we have the 10lb washer... and we all know that if you stuff a dryer over full, it will take forever to dry. But that isn't the case. We use the washer's built-in spinner for both a rinse cycle (~3 mins) and a spin cycle (~3 mins)... which effectively 'wrings out' a vast majority of the water leaving everything damp. The dryer does it's job very well, drying a normal load in about an hour. Sure when it's stuffed full with jeans and heavy clothes it'll takes two hours... but it's our dryer, and just sits there chugging along. As long as we actually follow the instructions and don't over-stuff the washer, we never have to worry about over-stuffing the dryer. (Note: I fill the dryer tub up to the top, but don't squish anything down. As long as it fits comfortably, the load never takes more than an hour and a half.)\n\nSome sample laundry loads that fit:\n-- About 5-7 days of clothes for two people, as long as we don't change through too many pairs of jeans, including work clothes\n-- Two king size sheets plus sundries (some socks, underwear, tshirts, pillow cases, etc)\n-- Two bath towels, four hand towels, and a bathroom rug (it fits, but takes a bit longer, maybe 2 hours tops).\n\nOur setup, it's actually very simple to get started...\n1) A standard outlet (we have an extension chord so both the washer/spinner & dryer can stay plugged in all the time)\n2) We also got the 'Amazon recommended' indoor venting kit... which (as far as I can tell, and others have mentioned) is probably unnecessary, the built-in lint filter is incredible at it's job.\n3) I also ordered the \"Whitmor 6754-3655 Dryer Balls (Set of 4)\". I never had dryer balls before, but since we prefer not to use fabric sheets, I gave them a try. They're actually pretty awesome. There are mixed reviews for them here on Amazon... but paired with the Panda dryer, 4 of these balls in the dryer seems to be the perfect number.\n\nOther Notes:\n1) Ordering the dryer was simple, of course, right here on Amazon. I'm always wary of non-Prime orders, but the delivery date for the shipment was spot on.\n2) Our dryer is in the closet, with the indoor venting kit. As mentioned, the built in lint catcher and the venting kit mean we have zero problems with dust flying around. However, the moisture of the laundry has to go somewhere. If we keep the closet door open, we don't notice the humidity at all. But if we close the closet door (don't recommend this), the entire closet fills with steam -- fogging up mirrors and wreaking havoc on anything else in the closet that was previously dry.\n3) The lint filter is the round circle in the back of the dryer tub. It does generally need to be cleaned after every load, though we've gone two back-to-back loads before without a problem. It's a very good three-part filter, with the second mesh part doing most of the work and making it trivial to clean. I listened to the other commenters, who suggested taking our vacuum hose and sucking out the dust. Works like a charm every time, no issues at all.\n4) I noticed that it definitely dries faster (gets hotter) when set to a higher time. I always set the dryer to the 220 minutes mark, and just turn it off when it's done. I've never had to let it go all the way, so I'm actually not even sure if there's a 'finished' buzzer.\n\nOverall, we are very happy with our purchase, and would highly recommend to friends and family who need something for their apartment.\n\nEnjoy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4886, "id": 340981, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 758, "len_tokens": 983, "text": "I do love MOST things about this washer.  I previously had a Kenmore Elite Calypso Top Loading HE for 12 years.  I wanted to get back to an agitator/fill-with-water type washer because I didn't feel my clothes were getting as clean.  Odd thing about this Speed Queen though, is in the User's Manual, it directs you to use a low-sudsing HE detergent (see picture!)  Of course I read this after I'd gone out just to buy regular detergent and used it in the four loads I've done so far with fine results.  I even ran an extra rinse cycle on this last load just to see if there was any remaining soap, but none of note.  I will try it with the HE detergent that I have on hand to see if it still cleans well.\n\nPros for this washer:\n- Will fill to the top on Extra Large setting.\n- The lid does not lock.  You can open the lid at any time during the entire wash/rinse/spin cycle.\n- Very short wash times.\n- CLEAN laundry! Can actually smell the clean.  Didn't notice the absence of that clean smell until I got it back with this washer.\n- End of wash signal.\n- Delayed start for up to 24 hours (haven't used this yet but looking forward to setting for early morning so laundry doesn't sit wet overnight.)\n- Extended, 5 year warranty on parts and labor comes with the washer.  I've read that some people say you're paying for it in the cost of the washer, as the price used to be $300 less than current selling price.\n- Can set up to 9 different Favorite settings.\n- Different wash cycles have different spin speeds (e.g. delicate spins slower than permanent press).\n\nCons for this washer:\n- The most annoying thing is that this washer will not fill, agitate or spin when lid is open.  I can understand agitate and spin, but fill?  Directions tell you to pour detergent in bottom of washer, then add clothes, THEN close the lid to add the water.  That means some clothes are just sitting right on top of non-diluted detergent.  This is a very annoying feature, and I would love to figure out how to override for at least the fill time.  I even watched a video on YouTube before I bought, which showed a guy doing a load with the lid open.  He doesn't state he's tweaked it in any way.  He is using the AWNE82, and I have the AWNE92, but I can't imagine that Speed Queen changed that feature between their two electronic models.\n***EDITED: I used the instructions and photos I found on the discussion forum of www.automaticwasher.org to bypass this feature - easy to do and works great now!. (http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?39369)  I'm leaving this as a CON, however, because of the need to bypass it.***\n- Size of tub is only 3.3 cubic ft. - however, I still was able to fit one queen sheet set and one twin sheet set and 5 bath towels in one load.\n- When delivered, the tub had a black film on it.  You can't see it with the naked eye, but rub a white towel in the tub and you'll see it. I had read about this and was prepared, but it did take two no-clothes wash cycles, one rubdown with Goo Gone and FOUR rubdowns with Windex and a white towel before it was all cleaned off.\n- The only cycle for NORMAL is combined with the ECO setting, which starts with warm, then switches to cold water, regardless of your settings.  Also, the directions say to not use the fabric softener dispenser on the ECO setting.  This is annoying.  So, instead I will set up a Favorite for my \"normal\".\n\nI've only had this machine for one day, so these are all initial impressions.  I will update if anything of note happens.  Even though it looks like I've listed many cons, these are minor, and overall I'm very pleased with the machine.  One thing I realized, however, is if you don't use HE detergent, it may become hard to find regular detergent in the stores!  Also, at the time of this writing, there were three pictures on Amazon for this unit.  The main picture it is showing is NOT the AWNE92 with 9 cycle settings.  It is showing the AWNE82 with 3 settings.  I've attached a picture of my AWNE92 panel.\n***EDIT: Update 1/2016 - still loving this machine, definitely worth the money!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4887, "id": 342892, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 724, "len_tokens": 928, "text": "First, I do not write many reviews.  I am just a buyer, not affiliated with any companies or organizations.  I feel so many reviews are fake and misleading.\nI have never really thought much about the tap water as the official city water reports make it sound like the water is safe - and I'm sure it ...\nSo, I have an older Kenmore refrigerator - a Coldspot model.  This water filter seems to fit well.  I live in Phoenix, AZ in the city.  I have never really thought much about the tap water as the official city water reports make it sound like the water is safe - and I'm sure it is according to official \"government\" approved levels - whatever those are.  So I purchased this filter wanting to see and taste the difference.  I also bought a water PPM tester  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073713G5F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (it says Amazons choice with very good reviews).\nSo, here is my initial testing results, some really shocked me.\nCostco (Kirkland brand) bottled water PPM = 23\nPhoenix Tap water - PPM = 498\nWater on the refrigerator AFTER flushing well over 4 gallons of water through this new filter - but installed same day as testing.  PPM = 476\n\nI have not tried drinking it yet so cannot attest to the flavor of the water, only the readings from the PPM tester.  All water tested was at room temperature, I tested each water immediately after opening or pouring, and also filled 3 separate bowls with each respective water and let sit for 2 hours to eliminate any temperature differential, same results for each of the waters. I can also confirm the packaging my water filter came in DOES say NSF 42, 51, and 401 (I think I have those numbers correct).\nSo my review so far is waste of money.  I will update this review in about 2 weeks, after the filter has had time to really get set in.  I also emptied my ice bucket so all ice will have been filtered through the filter.  I plan to melt some ice in a bowl and test that water also since that's probably the biggest reason I bought this filter, living in Phoenix we use ice all day everyday.  Hope this review helps.  I do highly suggest the water PPM tester referenced above, it's not expensive and gives a good accurate (as far as I can tell) reading.  If you care enough about water filters, a good tester should help you know what you are paying for.\n\nUpdate:  5/14/2018.  I am dropping my review of this filter to a 1 star.  I have flushed over 30 gallons (using 5 gallon water bottles) through the filter, using my tester on each bottle.  It has slightly improved over the tap water results.  Tap water is still 498ppm.  Now the filtered water is 462ppm.  So I read the data sheets for the filter, and it's level of certification and filtration.  I still had questions, so I spent the last 3 hours on the phone with EveryDrop by Whirlpool.  I was transferred to 5 different people, because they are all just sales people.  I asked to speak to someone with manufacturing, product quality, etc..  There is no one available or that I can leave a message for or anything.  They do not have anyone the consumer can speak to that can ask any questions beyond what is written on the package.  I asked what is a realistic ppm reduction performance of the filter - they do not know.  I asked when was the filter design last tested by NSF for certification - they do not know.  I asked for any material to show it's testing status to be certified NSF, they do not have it.  I think the filter is not certified, or even tested.  They could not show any evidence of any kind their filters are certified.  They also only referred to their own in house documentation to convey it's performance.\nSo after spending almost $50 for this filter, I see very little reduction in ppm (parts per million), and even the company cannot answer any questions aside from typical sales questions.  Ask them anything more detailed, they are lost.  Highly disappointed.  I will stick to the $10 filters, at least with those I have a very low expectation.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4888, "id": 344180, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 761, "len_tokens": 905, "text": "I bought this a year ago to have it on hand when my current PUR filter wore out. The old filter is losing its flow, so I tried to put this one in. It will not snap into place. I pushed very hard on it, and it simply will not snap in. To make sure I was doing it right, I put the old filter back in, and that one snapped right in, no problem. The new white filter looks the same as the old blue filter with some minor differences that were pointed out by other reviewers. It looks like those minor differences are keeping this filter from working properly.\n\nI called the Whirlpool help line, and after 15 minutes on hold I finally connected to a customer support agent, who talked me through the installation procedure. It was the same procedure I was already doing, so I was not doing it incorrectly before. The filter would not snap in. He thought that it might be the wrong filter, but I have triple checked everything. I have the correct filter model for my fridge.\n\nThe service agent thought that there might be something wrong with this filter since I did not buy it from Whirlpool. He told me to order one from them and it will fit. I placed the order, but I have not received it yet, so I cannot report on whether or not a filter from Whirlpool (actually, Every Drop) will fit better than the one sold by Amazon. I will update this if/when I receive the new filter and try it out.\n\nBTW, the new filter cannot be returned to Whirlpool for a refund if I open the packaging. Without opening the packaging, I will not be able to tell if the new filter will snap in to place or not. So there really is no return policy.  I am gambling my own 50 bucks on their hunch that the same filter from Whirlpool will fit while this one will not.\n\nThe bottom line on this is that this filter does not fit in the Maytag MSD2559XEM refrigerator. Caveat.\n\nUPDATE:\nI ordered a filter directly from Whirlpool as recommended by their help line. The cost was $49.99 plus sales tax. I received the filter in about a week.\n\nThe packaging of both the Whirlpool filter and the Amazon filter are identical, and the part numbers on the packaging, EDR3RXD1, are identical. The filters themselves are NOT identical. When placed side by side, you can see that on the Amazon filter, the body of the filter flares out as it goes into the end cap. On the filter from Whirlpool, the body flares out only a tiny bit, and meets the end cap mostly at a 90 degree angle. Other than that, they look identical. But that small difference seems to be key. The old blue PUR filter also does not flare out where the body goes into the end cap.\n\nThe first time I tried to put the Whirlpool filter into the fridge, it did not snap in. However, I gave it one more try and replaced the old one to see exactly how much force is needed to get it to snap in. Even with the old filter, I had to give it one last nudge in order to get it to snap in, so I tried that on the Whirlpool filter, and it worked. So, the Whirlpool filter DOES fit, and the Amazon filter DOES NOT fit. I did not try to remove the new filter to see if it will come out. That would be tempting fate a bit too much.\n\nThe bottom line is that there are at least two versions of this filter out there. One fits and the other does not, even though they carry the same part number. Caveat Emptor when buying third party filters.\n\nI ran water through the filter until it stopped spitting air (about two gallons). The water smells and tastes OK. I cannot detect any of the off odors or tastes that other reviewers have reported. The flow is fine. It will take a while to see how long the filter lasts.\n\nI am leaving this rating at one star because I am reviewing the filter that I bought from Amazon, not the filter that I bought from Whirlpool. They claim to be the same filter, but they are not. Because of the misrepresentation of the Amazon filter, I would remove my one star and give it a zero if I could. Caveat Emptor.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4889, "id": 347448, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 796, "len_tokens": 984, "text": "This ice maker is simple to run, simple to fill, plus easy to access the ice.  It makes a hollow tube cube that is great for drinks. It is a great asset for people with small ice makers in their refrigerators and for entertaining--inside the home or out on the patio*.  It has a relatively small footprint, not too loud or cumbersome.  And it has a nice looking simple design.  It's well-constructed, too.\n *Out of the weather and out of direct sunlight.\n\nWe have a french door refrigerator.  Never mind that it is the largest cubic foot model they make, the ice maker in the door is still inadequate for a thirsty small family during the summer months.  For the past two summers--since we bought that darn frig--we have been running to the local corner store (five miles away is our closest...) for a bag of ice on the days that we are at home and working or playing in the yard.  We vowed:  Never again.  This Ivation Portable Household Ice Maker is going to save us!\n\nI had a few concerns about getting a portable ice maker:  How loud would it be?  How far away from a water source could it be placed before losing the element of \"convenience\"?  Would it have to run constantly?  Would it make enough ice quickly?  To answer briefly, and elaborate below:  It is not too loud.  It can be filled with a pitcher of water.  You turn it on when you need it--you can have a glass of ice in a few minutes; with advance planning, you can have a bin of ice in two hours.  It is not so easy to drain--and the instructions suggest that it be emptied and refilled every day you use it.\n\nWhile it is running, the noise it makes is not offensive:  You can hear the water running/trickling into the ice making compartment; you can hear the motor fan; you can hear the ice shovel-er moving.  After a few cycles, I hardly noticed it.  I positioned it knee-high on a kitchen window seat.  If it was up in my face on a kitchen counter, I might notice the noise more, but even then, the sound is not excessive.  (The sound of the water moving in the machine is kinda' pleasant, actually.  And watching the movement of the shovel is kinda' fun.)\n\nPicture this:  When we have a gathering, we will place it on a stainless steel cart on the porch where there is a convenient wall outlet.  This model has a small enough footprint that it can sit on the cart, along with glasses and napkins and a pitcher or two, for a very convenient drink station, with a cooler of canned and bottled drinks sitting next to it.  This ice maker comes with a perfectly-sized ice scoop.  (It surprised me how well it works.  So many don't.)  Under the safety instructions, it says this ice maker is not for outdoor use.  I don't know why it says that, unless they are suggesting it should not be left out in the elements.  I think putting it out of harms way, away from water, and away from direct sunlight, is adequate--but what do I know.....\n\nThe ice compartment is not refrigerated, and the lid is not insulated, but the sides are. The ice compartment in the machine acts as an ice bucket, as the hinged lid lifts easily and the scoop fits inside.  As the machine keeps cranking out ice, it is not a problem if you've got people grabbing ice almost constantly.  (It says you only need to pause the machine if you are adding water.)  It is interesting to note:  The tube ice takes up more room in a glass than cube ice does, so you actually use less ice over time.\n\nI can fill it with a pitcher of water.  But you cannot completely empty it of water unless you get it to the sink, and it is heavy. Even if I let it make ice until the water in the reservoir empties, the machine still holds water in hidden places (like the trough where ice is made).  The machine needs to be taken to the sink, the plug removed, the machine tilted back and forth several times before all the water runs out.  Then you need to dry it out with a soft, absorbent cloth.  I leave the lid up until the inside is completely dry.  (It condenses under the lid if you don't.)  Then it is ready for the next use--whether the next day or the next week.\n\nI am really happy with this simple-to-use, very efficient and convenient ice maker.  Maybe not so happy with the chore of draining it....\n\n*I received a sample product from Ivation.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4890, "id": 352323, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 796, "len_tokens": 944, "text": "I've had it for a few days now and have put most of my laundry through it and it's still working fine with no leaks.  I started with the unit elevated and draining into my tub after reading reviews about the pump being weak and it drains just fine like this.  It is somewhat inconvenient not having it on the ground as now my dryer has to be an extra foot or so higher too.  I don't have space for side-by-side.  Also, if I'm washing jeans or something heavy, the wash bucket will shake the unit and I'm somewhat worried that if I'm not in there with it, it might rock itself from the shelf it's sitting on.  I tried a load on the ground, and it drained fine the first time with the hose elevated from the outlet.  However, the second time I tried to drain, it would not pump water.  I immediately shut the pump off, raised the unit again so the drain hose had no elevation and it drained just fine.  Also, I've found that if you turn the knob about half-way between the wash and drain settings, it opens the drain without activating the pump.  So if the pump does fail, you should still be able to drain the unit as long as the hose is lower than the outlet.\n\nIt is also not so convenient having to transfer clothes from one side and back several times throughout the wash, especially if you use fabric softener.  It wouldn't be quite as bad if the spin drum was the same size as the wash tub so you can spin the full load.  It's a little cumbersome having to find something to do with the first half of the wash after it's spun dry so you can load the other half of the wash into the spin drum.  And messy.  So minus points for an obvious design flaw.  I also tried using the water inlet on the spin drum to speed things up and rinse while the clothes spin.  Not only does this add stress to the machine as becomes apparent when you hear the drum react to the water, but the way the inlet is designed, the rinse water spins out before it gets to the clothes on the bottom.  Also, the inlet hose under the panel on that side was kinked and I had to remove the panel and fix it.  On the first use, the inlet hose immediately shot off and sprayed water everywhere.  I think I was more worried about the opening in the back and water shorting out the machine more than anything.  Luckily, no damage done.  I think it's obvious to say that at least not every unit is inspected when they're built, so it's a crap shoot and you should know that.\n\nIt's also important to go easy with the soap, or you'll have to run several rinse cycles.  A little goes a long way and will save you wasted time.\n\nAs far as noise is concerned, it's not really any louder than the exhaust fan in my bathroom, but it makes low end rumble that carries.  Might make some angry neighbors if you don't live on the ground floor.  The spin drum is not very loud either as long as you have the load balanced.\n\nWith regards to durability, I feel like it would be great for an RV or any type of scenario where its use is limited to a week or two a year.  It's mostly plastic, and I'm not really sure how well it's going to last.  I live in a one bedroom apartment, so it will be used quite a bit.\n\nOverall, it saves having to walk to the laundry room and sit with my clothes so no one steals them.  And it saves having to go out of my way to get quarters every week.  So there's that.  It doesn't leak yet, and it does get my clothes clean.  I'm also not entirely certain that having it doesn't violate my lease, but I didn't care.  The only time maintenance would go in my bathroom is if I have a service order on it, and I fix all my own stuff cuz I don't like people in my house when I'm not here.  I give it four stars because it does what it says it does.  Obviously at this price, not every inch of the machine is free of defect, but that's what you get for being on a budget, so I don't fault the manufacturer for that.  Good for a pinch maybe, but it would have probably been wiser for me to have waited and gotten a name brand, well-built machine.  So this machine gets from me a score of \"meh\".", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4891, "id": 352464, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 810, "len_tokens": 948, "text": "This machine requires a little more motivation than a fully automatic model but is worth every penny of the price for our family.\n\nWe live in a large city in an area that can be sketchy at night.  In order to use the mini laundry in the building; I have to bring laundry down three flights of stairs, outside the security gate, walk about a fourth of a block to the gangway security gate, swipe in and go down a half flight of stairs to the laundry room.  The machines are $1.75 a wash and $1.50 a dry.  Then I have to carry up everything in reverse order.  When I rush it takes me eleven minutes to get to the laundry room, load the wash, start the machine and get back upstairs.  Other than the inconvenience and high price of using the mini wash, I am unwilling to leave my child alone in our home unsupervised.\n\nWe are a small family and this machine may not be the best choice for a family of six who work outdoors on a farm, but for a small family who goes to school and work indoors it is perfect!\n\nWe owed the fully automatic Haier washer and it stopped working just about the time it paid for itself.  We have also owned the extreme mini washer with a nina spin dryer.  This compact washer is right in between the two.  It is not as automatic as the Haier, but it is able to wash larger loads of laundry and it is much more efficient than the extreme mini wash and nina spin dryer combo.\n\nThe wash tub holds about a half sized load of a normal sized washer.  I typically wash like items together that are color sorted.  It will fit a king sized fitted and flat sheet to wash.  There seems to be space to wash bath towels but the weight of the fabric doesn't allow the fabric to \"swish\" like it should.  I am able to wash all of my clothing and our child's clothing, all the sheets and pillow cases, and all my husbands work shirts, pants, tee shirts, etc. in this washer.  The bath towels, blankets, and my husbands heavy jeans still entail a trip to the mini laundry in the building or to the full sized laundry mat down the street.\n\nThe intake hose will not fit your faucet so you will need a quick trip to the hardware store, it is worth it if you want to use the inlet hose.  However, as others have mentioned, it is faster to fill the wash tub with a bucket.  I also find it faster to rinse with the bucket rather than the inlet hose.\n\nThe most efficient wash/rise/dry cycle that works for us:\n1 - Fill the wash tub with clothing, drizzle a VERY small amount of HE detergent.  (Really use half the amount you would for a full sized load.  It is a very tiny amount.)\n2 - Fill the wash tub with a Home Depot \"orange bucket\" from the bath tap with water at the temperature of your choice.  I really like being able to choose the temperature for both the wash and rinse cycles.  Set the wash timer to wash and let the machine wash.\n3 - When the wash cycle is complete, you can keep the wash water for another load (if it isn't dirty) or drain the wash water.\n4 - Lift half of the sopping clothing over to the spinner, load and spin for approx a minute.\n5 - Once most of the soapy water is spun out, fill the bucket with rinse water and pour over the clothes in the spinner.  Spin out for about a minute.  You can add splash of vinegar as fabric softener or rinse an additional time if you prefer.\n6 - Hang up the barely damp clothing while spinning out & rinsing the other half of the wash load.\n\nI do all of our laundry in much less time than it wold take me to go up and down the stairs to the mini wash.  Additionally, I don't have dirty laundry sitting around in hampers waiting for a full load of whites or darks to wash.  You can do loads as small as one shirt or as large as 4 -5 pieces of clothing since you control the water level.  I save a lot of money on dry cleaning by using the gentle cycle and cold water to wash wool base layers and work blouses.  Silk can also be washed on the gentle cycle without tearing as this uses an impeller rather than a centered agitator in the wash tub.\n\nIt is very lightweight and I am able to carry it to the pantry to be stored when not in use.  Overall, it is very apartment friendly!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4892, "id": 361833, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 711, "len_tokens": 902, "text": "I've owned the Haier HLP24E portable washing machine for three weekends now, and have used it for 2-3 loads per weekend with zero problems.\n\nBefore I was able to use the washer however, I needed to find a 10-ft drain hose. Haier only supplies a 5-ft drain hose. However, there are 15 inches of countertop between the right side of my kitchen sink and the space that I could place the washer, plus the drain port on the washer is on the far side from my sink (on the right side of the washer, at the bottom and near the back). I carefully measured, and determined that I needed a drain hose no less than 10.0 ft.\n\nThe drain port on the Haier HLP24E portable washer is 1.0\" O.D. (1. inch outer diameter), so the drain hose must have a connector that is 1.0\" I.D. (1.0 inch inner diameter). The Frigidaire 154225602 (the \"Electrolux 154225602\" as per the packaging) Drain Hose has a 1.0\" I.D. at both the 90-degree connector and at the straight connector. I connected the 90-degree connector to my washer and routed the hose around the back and then over to my sink.\n\nThe hardest part of finding a drain hose that would work for my new washer and kitchen layout was that every website that I was able to find that sells drain hoses (including Amazon) does not, in the vast majority of cases, list the inner diameter of the hose connections and the overall length of the hose. It took me days of searching until I found that the Frigidaire 154225602 (aka. the \"Electrolux 154225602\") fits the Haier HLP24E portable washer, and is 10 ft long instead of the OEM hose which was 5 ft long.\n\nOne thing that is nice about this hose for portable clothes washers or portable dishwashers is that it is transparent, so you can see the water level inside. That makes disconnecting it from your sink easier to do without spilling any water on the floor, because you can see exactly where the water level is inside the hose while you are relocating the hose after using the washer.\n\nThe washer itself is the nicest washer I have used in 36 years. Literally. There is no agitator inside, so there is actually quite a bit of room inside for laundry. I am 6'1\" and have a larger-than average frame, so my articles of clothing are larger than average as well. But I can just fit 7 days of my \"lights\" in one load, and 7 days of my \"darks\" in a second load. That is similar to the capacity of traditional full-size washers with the agitator.\n\nAll of the controls are digital, allowing the engineers to be able to design very intelligent steps in the wash cycles. I use the \"Heavy Duty\" cycle, because the water in my town is hard (full of minerals) and therefore clothes don't rinse free of detergent very well unless you use warm or hot water to dissolve the soap and then later use a second rinse cycle. One extra-nice feature is that as the washer is filling with water each time, it repeatedly spins the wash basket a little, to get the clothes at the sides equally wet. That wasn't a feature in the previous washers I've used.\n\nThe wash basket also contains two lint traps which work very well. I've used too many washers without lint traps; those washers leave debris on your linens, essentially requiring you to then run them through a dryer to remove the lint. In contrast, the lint traps in the Haier HLP24E do such a good job that I don't need to use a dryer to remove lint, allowing me to hang-dry all of my laundry on two laundry racks that I have in my apartment. Just keep at least one or two windows open 1 inch or a half an inch, and the washer gets the clothes so dry that 24 to 36 hours later, all of my laundry is completely dry. That saves me a lot of money by not having to use the dryer each week, it saves me hours of each weekend, and my clothes last a lot longer too and never shrink.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4893, "id": 365670, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 800, "len_tokens": 933, "text": "Overall, This is a decent cheap way to wash your clothes efficiently.. as long as your living by yourself.\n\nit really doesnt really hold 11 lb of clothes. It holds maybe 5 or 6 lb before the motor starts straining. One change of clothes should weigh anywhere between 1-4 lb. so you should be able to wash almost 3 changes of clothes.. correct? This thing can barely hold and wash 2 changes of clothes before the motor starts straining.\n\nidk what the other reviews are complaing about with the pump... This thing pumps water like a beast. I can drain the whole tub in no more than 2 minutes, the sink drain has trouble keeping up with it. And it can push it up over the edge of the sink with no issues. It actually blew itself off the sink at one point! luckily i managed to catch it quick enough and not get too much water all over the place. when it is almost fully drained, It cannot push the last bit of water up over into the sink due to it sucking air, So you will have to lower the hose into some sort of bucket. I use a gallon jug that I cut the top off of. The remainder is maybe a quart or so. Not very much. The hose is a bit long. Could be a little shorter. it lays in the sink a little bit if I want the upward pipe to be straight instead of on an angle holding more water weight.\n\nthe included clean water tube fit my faucet just fine, And its just a normal plain old boring faucet. was plenty long enough, Again if anything, A little too long.\n\nAgitation in the wash part is very rough if it has the right amount of clothing or less. water whirls around so forcefully it will walk away on you, So you might have to watch it. Ive been washing my clothes at 10 minutes, With normal good ol tide, The non HE stuff, and only use level 1 of 6 on that cap., and it seems to be just the right amount. Ive gotta say, It does seem to clean my clothes very well, But I figure thats due to the rough agitation. Water can sure get dirty! I have not tried the soft setting yet, But I might do that for an upcoming socks and boxers load. the lint catch does seem to be useless. There seems to be some black strips of rubber that are supposed to be wedged in the sides of it to let lint in and not out... but they really don't stay in place. I see the concept of it working, But its parts are garbage So it doesnt work.\n\nspin dryer is eh. Could be better. it gets most of the water out. I spin for 5 minutes. Rinse the first 2 and just spin dry for the remaining 3. It will dry boxers to the point you can put em on right there. Socks are dry to wear in 2 or 3 hrs. Shirts can come out and be dry in roughly 3 or 5 hrs, And pants can take up to 10 hrs if they are thicker material or have alot of pockets.to do a change of clothes a day in advance is no problem at all. It is however, VERY noisy. when I apply water like the clothes were in a rinse cycle it sounds EXACTLY like I am cutting studs out of a wall with a reciprocating saw. and I mean exactly. probably the exact volume too. When I stop applying water, It tones down quite a bit but it is a little noisier than It probably should be. It actually seems to balance quite well. There have been a time or two where I would have to move stuff to get it to spin right but it spins fast and works. I wouldnt recommend putting more than a pair of pants and a few changes of socks in there, Or 2 or 3 shirts in there at a time.\n\nknobs seem to be nice and tight. Egg timers are a little noisy, You can hear them clicking as they are counting down, But its covered up by the wash and spin. plastic body is very cheap. will crack if dropped. amazon said this package weighs 25 or so lb but the ups tracking page said the whole thing including the box was 16.2 lb.. so idk whats right.\n\ninstead of coughing up quarters and having to either use the laundrymat in your apartment building or have to actually drive to a laundrymat, this seems to be a decent investment.\n\nI will update in the future on longevity of this washer.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4894, "id": 371969, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 822, "len_tokens": 972, "text": "I was dubious at best.  I have worked residential construction most of my life and know that there is a big difference between a good dishwasher and a bad one.  I also know that difference is not always based on \"brand\" or \"price\", it is based on how well it was designed.\nThe first thing I noticed when I got the box was that it was really light, usually not a sign of \"quality\" in my book.  I did notice though that it was very well packed.  Double boxed with a lot of foam.  I pulled it out of the box and set it on the counter for my first real look.\n1. Finish looked pretty good, the door was a little off from being straight, but in reality it was less than a 16th of an inch off.  As a finish carpenter we get a little too picky sometimes.\n2. Opening the door I saw there was a good amount of tape and reinforcement to hold everything in place while shipping, nice!\n3. Set-up was probably the easiest for an appliance I have ever done.  There is a nice sink faucet adapter that replaces your sink screen that should easily fit most newer faucets. (This is the only real flaw I see in the whole machine)  The adapter that the hoses hook to replaces the screen on your faucet and just leaves a hole about 1/4\" for the water to come out when not using the dishwasher.  Well you know what happens when you restrict your garden hose down to a small size.  That's right the pressure goes way high.  The first time I turned on the water to wash something by hand the water hit the bottom of the sink and rebounded from the sink bottom and sprayed a good deal of the surrounding area.  I am not sure how this can be fixed short of changing out the adapter every time and replacing the screen. But that would be a pain.  Just use a little caution the first few uses.\n3. The hoses both connect to the sink using a fitting not unlike a typical \"shop air tool quick release fitting.  The hoses have very different threaded ends on the appliance end making it vitually impossible to mix them up.\n4. Plug in the power cord and you are installed.\nThe instructions call for a dish detergent as well as a liquid water drop residue remover.\nFor the first run I thought I might as well give it a good run for it's money.  I packed it with glasses some with dried milk in the bottom, plastic containers used for spaghetti sauce, a Pyrex dish that had been used for lasagna and a handful of silverware.  I had only barely scraped the containers and Pyrex the night before so there was a fair amount of dried food on them.\nI picked the heavy duty setting to be fair and waited.  When I opened the door I will have to say I was no less than astonished!  Everything was spotless. The wine glasses were well, spotless and totally dry.  The milk glasses, the same.  I pulled out the Pyrex last knowing that was the big test. TOTALLY CLEAN!\n\nI have owned some really high end washers in my life and this washer despite its diminutive size produces right up there with them.\n\nREALITY:\n1. It is very small. I would say 5 place settings and a few serving utensils about max it out.\n2. I have had a few things come out with a small amount of dried food on them, but I rarely pre-rinse.\n3. My hot water heater is set pretty high so the water coming in is already very hot.  Does this make  difference, I don't have any idea.\n4. I always run the hot tap water before hooking up the machine  so I know it starts with good hot water.\n5. When not in use the 5' of double hose need a home, and be sure to drain the water out of the hoses into the sink after letting off the pressure with the little button because there will be more and it will end up soaking your countertop.\n\nConclusion:  A great machine!  I would buy it again.  I would recommend it to anyone.\n\nI am actually going to be installing mine permanently into the wall which I can already see is going to be a chore.  From what I can tell none of the fittings on the hoses are standard size and thread, so Mr. Creative is going to have to go to work.  I called the factory and they won't even discuss the possibility of permanent mounting so no help there, but it's not supposed to be permanently mounted so I can see their point.\n\nIf you are short on space and tired of washing dishes by hand, this is the washer for you.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4895, "id": 374497, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 738, "len_tokens": 949, "text": "This thing is the Toyota Camry of washing machines.  The style is certainly not going to impress anyone, but this thing is solid, reliable engineering goodness that will run for decades. If you want to impress people with the looks of your washing machine, buy a Samsung or and LG.  If you want to, I don't know, CLEAN YOUR CLOTHES, then this washer right here is the thing that you want.  Add to cart is this-a-way -->\n\nFirst and foremost, this is *not* a \"high efficiency\" or \"HE\" washer.  \"Oh noes!  But the environments!\" you say.  Here's the deal:  the standards to which High Efficiency washers are held are extremely tough.  Meaning it has to wash your cloths with very little water, and very little warm water to boot.  So the Samsungs and LG's of the world use a bunch of complicated methods to try to clean your clothes using a very limited amount of water and heat.  These methods include:\n\n* Flinging your clothes around in all manner of directions, speeding up, slowing down, stuttering and flitting about, all in an attempt to dislodge that pasta sauce you dropped on your power tie right after telling Charise in accounting how you can never eat pasta without dumping it on yourself.\n\n* Using special detergents that don't get all frothy.  Ever wonder why you have to have that \"HE Compatible\" detergent?  It's because the washer flings around the water so much, any normal soap would end up looking like a poorly poured bud light.\n\n* Sprays water on your soapy clothes to rinse them, instead of submerging them in clean water.\n\n* Uses cold or \"cool\" water to save on energy using fancy temperature sensors to mix the water to just the right temperature of \"3pm salad bar chicken wings\"\n\n* Run for way longer, in an attempt to fatigue the dirt into submission\n\n'Well, all that doesn't sound so bad!' you say.  'What's wrong with that? I want to be environmentally friendly.' Well, I'ma tell you:\n\n* It doesn't clean clothes worth an onion.\n* It takes forever and a day to not accomplish its charge\n* The machines are so complicated in trying to do the above, they break all the danged time.\n\nThe Speed Queen works the same way that washers worked for years before all this \"HE\" nonsense.  Namely:\n\n* Fill up a tub with a bunch of warm or hot water\n* Add some nice frothy soap\n* Agitate the snot out of it\n* Drain it all out\n* Fill it up with clean water\n* Agitate the snot out of it\n* Spin it all out\n* Grab a beer, and reflect on a job well-done in half the time of those new fangled machines\n\nAnd environmentally, here's the thing:  these new HE washers are so prone to breaking down, they are rarely lasting any longer than 3, 4, 5 years, where a good old-fashioned agitate-the-snot washer could easily last 15 or 20.  So we're dumping these giant plastic and metal machines into landfills at a greatly increased rate.  Which is worse, using some more water and heat energy, or regularly dumping an appliance the size of a small aircraft into the ground to be buried for some sad future archeologist to discover, and incorrectly identify as an \"electric salad spinner.\"\n\nThere is one caveat you should know about this washer.  Because everyone is so obsessed with Energy Star ratings, Speed Queen was falling way behind on theirs, and getting terrible ratings in product comparisons.  So they adjusted their \"Normal\" cycle to be \"Eco friendly.\"  Meaning, it doesn't use hot water, and doesn't do a full rinse.  So, if you want all of the benefits of having this machine, do not use that cycle.  Use any other cycle on the machine.\n\nThis thing also has a killer warranty that you will probably never need.  5 years parts AND labor.  If you've ever had one of those name brand washers, and tried to use the warranty, you know how important that \"labor\" part is.\n\nSo, for your next washer, you can buy a plastic, blingy money pit that does a terrible job of cleaning clothes, but might make the random overnight house guest think you really \"have your stuff together\" or, you can buy this machine, which will clean the everything out of your clothes, and do it for years.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4896, "id": 386546, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 771, "len_tokens": 929, "text": "The Whirlpool refrigerator that I own began leaking water on the floor and developing ice in the bottom of the freezer compartment. When I researched the problem on YouTube, I found several videos that identified the source of the problem.\n\nIt seems that Whirlpool designed a \"duck-billed\" grommet attached with a trough to dispell water into the drain pan during defrost cycles. This fitting is easily plugged up by sediment in the water because of its narrowness. This prevents the water from flowing into the trough. Instead it leaks into the freezer compartment and becomes frozen. That ice then melts on defrost cycles and flows directly onto the floor under the freezer compartment.\n\nWhirlpool developed this part which looks like a sink trap to resolve the problem. The \"duck-billed\" shaped grommet is replaced by a small cylindrical tube like spacer that is connected to solid tubing and allows the water to pass freely to the drain pan. This replacement tube does not get plugged up so it should stop water from leaking into the freezer compartment. Then during the defrost cycle, the absence of that ice assures that no water will be present and thus no leaks onto the floor.\n\nIt was VERY EASY to install if you follow the cited video CAREFULLY. I am waiting to see if in fact the problem is resolved in the coming week.\n\nSHAME ON WHIRLPOOL! They knew about the defective part and even created the new part as a replacement. But they NEVER informed their customers or issued a recall and either a free or discounted replacement part. The customer only finds out when the water begins to appear on the floor! The price for this replacement part from Whirlpool directly is double the price offered by Amazon for the same.\n\nIt seems Whirlpool was counting on paid service calls and profit from the new replacement part. To me, this is toal disregard for its customers and smudges Whirlpool's reputation.\n\nThe part is worth the money but Whirlpool needs to hear from us!\n\nUPDATE:\nAfter I installed this part, I STILL had the original problem of water leaking onto the floor!\n\nResearching further, I learned that the ice build up around the evaporator must be removed as well as the possible ice blockage at the port leading to the drain pan.\n\nI reviewed many solution options to resolve this problem - including a removal of all the shelves in the freezer compartment - to remove the ice. I chose a pretty simple method: perform a full, manual defrost without dismantling the freezer compartment.\n\nBefore implementing the fix, I prepped as follows:\n\n  1. I filled  two empty, gallon-sized milk containers with water and froze them overnight. This formed two blocks of ice that last far longer than packaged ice or ice cubes.\n\n  2. The next day, I purchased a five pound bag of dry ice from the local Publix.\n\n  3. I completely emptied the ice maker and then disconnected the refrigerator from its power source.\n\n  4. I then removed all the food, placing frozen items in a large styrofoam container with the dry ice and refrigerated items in two other styrofoam containers with the created block ice.\n\n  5. Next, I removed the ice that accumulated on the bottom of the freezer compartment (which was the source of the leaking).\n\n  6. I allowed the refrigerator to defrost for seven hours and used a hair dryer to melt ice that accumulated on the evaporator and in the drain path, while wiping up any water that made its way to the bottom of the freezer compartment. If the shelving is not removed from the freezer compartment, it's a bit of a tight situation to aim the hair dryer ... but it is possible.\n\n  7. Lastly, I connected the refrigerator back into the power source, set the freezer and refrigerator settings to the RECOMMENDED TEMPERATURES on the digital displays, per the manual, and correctly adjusted the humidifier settings for the fruit and vegetable bins.\n\nThe refrigerator has been operating properly, with NO leaks for about two weeks now! There is zero ice accumulating in the freezer and thus no water leaking onto the floor. The installed replacement drain tube gives a wider and direct flow path to the drain pan for the water created during defrost cycles of the refrigerator.\n\nWHAT IS SIGNIFICANT HERE IS that installation of the drain tube itself will probably NOT resolve the leaking problem, since the ice build up will not go away with normal defrost cycles. It's almost certain that the manual defrosting MUST ACCOMPANY the drain tube replacement for full resolution.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4897, "id": 394762, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 767, "len_tokens": 920, "text": "I just bought this machine after my old reliable 15 1/2-year old Kenmore extra large capacity washer broke due to an unfortunate imbalance situation.  I never had any problems with that machine, ever.  In terms of functionality, this Speed Queen machine is horrible.  I had a continuous water level option in my old Kenmore washer and wasn't restricted to some preset factory water level as this Speed Queen has.  (I am appreciative of the fact that I have some control over the water level at all, though, given what has happened with other brands.)  In my Kenmore machine, I had both a Delicate and a Handwash setting to select unlike this new machine which only has the Handwash setting.  And, I was able to open the lid during the operation of my Kenmore so that I could view the agitation speed and make necessary adjustments to the wash cycle.  This Speed Queen prevents me from seeing what's going on because the machine stops running when the lid is raised.\n\nContrary to the description above, there are only three wash settings to choose from.  The Normal ECO setting is a joke.  It's supposed to use less water and it does because there's no rinse cycle though it's listed on the control panel.  What you get in this rinse is two sprays of water along with continuous spinning.  How is that rinsing the soap off of the clothes?  Ironically, the machine has an option for a 2nd rinse on the Heavy Duty and Handwashing setting for those with sensitive skin.  I'm thinking that anyone who uses the Normal ECO setting will develop a new sensitivity to the soapy residue that will inevitably cling to their clothes after not having it rinsed off with a full immersion rinse.  Stupid design.\n\nAnd the Rinse cycles in the other two wash settings appear to be very brief in duration.  I will have to shut off the machine to allow the clothing to sit in the water longer in the hopes that more soap will be removed than otherwise possible with a short exposure to the rinse water.\n\nThe inability to view the wash in progress to ascertain if the agitation speed is too fast, too slow, or just right is a big negative for me.  I will have to blindly select a wash setting and hope that it does the job without destroying my clothes.  I tried the Heavy Duty setting on my old Kenmore once and it was so powerful that I had to abort the cycle and switch to Normal agitation.  I have no good way of determining if this Heavy Duty setting in the Speed Queen will be too fast or not until after I try it out.\n\nFinally, this new machine is so much smaller in capacity than my old Kenmore was.  I will have to do two loads with the Speed Queen just to approximate one load in my extra large capacity Kenmore.  I'm not saving on electricity or water usage.  I suppose if they made them bigger the weight would become an issue.  They weigh 195 lbs.  with the stainless steel drum.\n\nBottom line is that I will have to monitor the machine during use in order to stop it while in the Normal ECO or Handwash setting and move the dial to another setting to try to achieve the results or performance that I had with my old Kenmore.  There isn't going to be any \"automatic\" set it and wait for the washing machine to finish anymore.  I'm going to be irritated every time I do laundry.\n\nIt's clear that the washing machine industry has been decimated by the water restricting regulations of the Dept. of Energy that will be fully implemented by 2017 and by the fact that too many, if not all, of our appliances are being made in China.  I was looking at the offerings in the space heater sector a few months ago and the extensive list of complaints about shoddy performance and unreliability among all brands is a call to action, in my opinion.  It's great that Speed Queen is made in the U.S.  and that it's a supposedly reliable machine, hopefully.  Now, if other brand manufacturers would heed their customers' complaints and stop importing crap from China and start making their products domestically, things might improve for the consumer.  I can't afford to keep replacing substandard appliances on a regular basis.  Not only that but broken appliances, etc., litter the landfills and that's not good at all.  So, speak up, people if these are issues that concern you too.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4898, "id": 395726, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 821, "len_tokens": 991, "text": "<div id=\"video-block-R17PY3089ESRAU\" class=\"a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block\"></div><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D1aAmijdu7S.mp4\" class=\"video-url\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"\" value=\"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/01lo1N9XHtS.png\" class=\"video-slate-img-url\">&nbsp;&nbsp;Keep your expectations in check - and you may get some value here.\n\n You will see very clearly in the video how much ice this can actually make in about an hour. It is all great and well to talk in terms of lbs of ice but what is the point unless you can relate it to what would go in a drink? I think if your are buying it to entertain more than 4-6 people you may find it lacking - as stated keep your expectation in check it can not perform miracles but it is very handy for small gatherings or just when you need some quick cubes. It makes 9 cubes per batch and they take between 8-10 minutes by my testing.\n\n Even though its rather utility in function it is a great design and looks rather expensive and would probably into most kitchens aesthetically (the older one functioned well but it was a bit of an eye sore) I tried to get some good angles on the video I did to show it off since it really is a nice looking machine.\n\n The design lines are good and the backlit LCD gives it a it of a modern appliance style (and very easy to use etc). A step up from the older model in design, and it makes a fair amount all things considered but its really only useful for a small gathering (Again Im estimating 4-6 people if you give it an hour to produce the first batch)\n\n The cubes were OK and it gave an option for three size although they are not hugely different. It will make the medium cubes in about 8 to 10 minutes but the large are probably best since the time taken is only slightly more  (although depends on the drink you want to make really - frankly they are not that different between sizes). Initially it took about 10 mins for a batch but it reduced to about 8 when the machine was into gear (it makes 9 cubes per batch so just enough for 1-2 drinks). The first batch is a little smaller also so in practical terms you are looking at about 20 mins from startup to get up and running with enough ice for two drinks from a cold start IMHO.\n\n This is quite a heavy unit so portability wouldnt be its strong suite. It weighs in at 24lbs! which means you make a considered discussion as to where you are going if its going with you - it might require a bit of planning it isn't something you can just throw in a bag over the shoulder.\n\n Its job is to make ice though and it that it does its job well. Fill it with water and choose your size setting and then just wait for ice - although its best to use it as it comes otherwise the ice can clump up a little bit when it is full. The ice is wet ice so it will water down whatever it is being put into a little even straight away. If you stockpile some in the freezer it should dry up a little but it will likely clump with the wet surface freezing to each other. It just requires a little planning - Eg. make batches and put it in your freezer to keep perhaps but it isn't something you really need to worry about.\n\n The design means that when you turn it off or stop it the ice will simply melt and return to the reservoir which is very cool, although not the smartest idea to be using still water after a day or so - Probably smart to drain it and start again if your not doing ice the next day.\n\n You only really need this kind of thing for a small party OR if you need some quick ice for a few drinks. The benefit being speed but it can only do so much and doesnt produce buckets of ice that might be required depending on the size of your gathering - and it also depends on the type of drinks your going to be making / drinking. It is just under two large glasses an hours which would make about 6-8 drinks perhaps so if your are an hours ahead of your party you should be able to keep up with your ice needs (or just have some backup in your freezer)\n\n With knowledge of what it can actually DO - not just the marketing hyperbole I still think it is pretty cool. It isn't enough for a large party but with its nice aesthetic I have no problem leaving it out on the counter - and using it when needed for a small gathering.\n\n Product provided for review - its just my opinion.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4899, "id": 445815, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 840, "len_tokens": 960, "text": "I live in an apartment complex where the cost to wash clothes for me and my 2 children was becoming very costly to use the laundry room. I was so happy to find this product since receiving it meant that I didn't have to carry laundry across 4 buildings to use the 1 laundry room in the complex. When the machine was first delivered, I unpacked it and used it the same day.\n\nI immediately didn't like the flimsy little hose that's suppose to attach to the faucet but doesn't. I also didn't like the fact that there was no rubber seal around the lid of the washer, which caused water to seem out from the lid during the wash/rinse cycle so I always had water to clean up off of the floor, though not a lot at all...I usually could clean it up with a couple of paper towels. Lastly, I didn't like the fact that it doesn't have wheels on it to make it just a little bit more portable.\n\nThis machine was delivered on time, so I was happy about that. Overall, I loved the machine when I first used it and I was extremely impressed with how well it performs in terms of cleaning....VERY IMPRESSED!!  However, after using the machine about 3 times in one month, it stopped draining. I'm not sure if the pump stopped working properly or what, but none of the water drained from the machine. I had to transfer the laundry to spin dry without any of the water draining. By the time I was finished with my last load, I was stuck with a machine full of water and the only way I was able to drain it was to use a pot to pull most of the water out of it and then get somebody strong enough to move it with the water that was left and put it in my bathtub so I can level the other flimsy little hose and drain the water that way.\n\nIt still washes pretty good but considering the manual work I already have to put into it, which I really don't mind, I can't see having to struggle to move it with a tub full of water after every load just to get my laundry done. I'm returning mine in the hopes of getting a better, more durable and reliable portable machine from elsewhere. I'm so disappointed because in spite of my initial dislikes, I quickly grew to love the little machine after the first use.\n\n***THIS IS AN UPDATE TO MY LAST REVIEW***\nCustomer service is beyond excellent!  They have gone above and beyond to help me get my issue with this machine resolved. I couldn't be more pleased with all that they've done. After my first review, I was almost immediately contacted by a rep and they sent another machine to replace the one that stopped draining. The second machine I received was damaged in transit and guess what....they sent me another one!!\n\nI'm still super pleased with the performance of this little machine! I'm a mother who has raised 3 kids into adulthood and currently raising 2 elementary school-aged children and for as long as I've owned the standard size washing machines and dryers over those years (this is my first time using a compact washer), I don't recall my clothes ever being as clean as they get with this machine. My whites are brighter then ever and I've noticed stains come out of my clothes much better. I've never been a fan of washing machines without agitators but this one really gave me some faith in the capabilities of such washers.\n\nThere is a lot of manual involvement, but considering the money I would otherwise be spending to use the laundry room in the apartment complex I live it and the money I would be spending, I really don't mind the MINOR labor at all! I still say that the machine should come with more sturdy inlet and drain hoses, as they are extremely flimsy (I've found a way to use both so that I can use the machine as intended without much complication at all), a set of wheels so that I can push or pull it instead of carrying it to my kitchen from where I store it when not in use (I know it's not all about me, but I'm just saying :-) ), and it definitely needs a rubber seal of some sort around the wash lid.\n\nOther than that, I don't think I could ever expect anything better than what I've gotten from the performance of this machine to the customer service I've received to resolve the issue I had with the first one, especially at the price I paid. I have to say that if it doesn't last beyond a year (I hope it does), I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one to get me through the next year simply because I know that any problem I have will be promptly taken care of.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4900, "id": 452683, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 749, "len_tokens": 957, "text": "My experiences, after 1 year of ownership:\n\nWhen you get it home, you need to get the (included) CO2 tank purged and charged. I found a local fire suppresion company that would do it, and they have food grade CO2 there. I believe it was around $20 to do that. There was a little bit of assembly required, and the whole unit went together very easily. The CO2 canister can sit on the back of the fridge, or it can go inside the fridge. I originally had it on the back of the fridge, but that prevents the fridge from sitting flush against a wall, so we ended up putting the CO2 inside the fridge. Once the fridge cools down, set your line pressure regulator to 12 psi. The pressure regular is attached to the side of the CO2 bottle.\n\nLocally (Canada) a 20L keg is $109.95+$20 deposit. I haven't purchased an 58.6L kegs, but I understand they may be a better deal per liter. The keg fridge above will hold 2x 20L kegs or 1x 58.6L keg. If you use the 58L kegs, you won't have any room for pop or anything in the fridge. That said, with the 20L kegs, you'd need to build a small stand in order to put a lot of pop in the fridge. I keep 4-6 beer glasses in there. Once you get the kegs in there, you need to let them cool and sit for 24-48 hours to reduce foam and let them truly cool.\n\nNow you're set up: except that it won't work. This is where my learning came in. The kegerator has a digital display that reads the internal temperature of the fridge. The problem is that the temperature sensor is at the bottom of the kegerator (where cold air sinks to) and is within 6-8\" of the cooling coil. Basically what happens is that when the fridge is set to 37-39 Fahrenheit, the bottom of the fridge is that temperature, but the top of the fridge could be 10-20 degrees warmer. The fridge is only set to get to a set lower temperature limit, so I ended up cutting my temperature probe out and soldering a small resistor in-line and then putting the temperature sensor back. This let me drop the temperature by another couple of degrees - so the fridge is actually colder than it thinks it is. You'll need to use your favorite search engine to find info on the resistor modification.\n\nOnce that was done, I had to combat the problem of the temperature disagreement between the top of the fridge and the bottom. This modification adds a fan to the bottom of the fridge and blows cold air up into the beer tower to cool it down and keep it cool. This is very important because if the beer tap tower is warm, then the beer will foam out. I purchased a pre-made tower cooler. You'll need to use your favorite search engine to find info on beer tower coolers.\n\nThis fixed our foaming problem for a while (except for a manufacturing defect in the 3/8\" interior diameter clear hose -- it wasn't crimped properly to the connector and had debris in the line, that was causing the beer to foam). The next problem that arose is that the beer tap that comes with the Danby fridge works on a slide mechanism. The problem with this is that it gums up after about 10 days and becomes hard to slide. Not only is it hard to slide, but the \"beer stone\" or \"beer store\" that builds on the slide mechanism also taints your beer. I ended up buying a Perlick tap that works flawlessly.\n\nWhen I purchased the faucet, I also purchased 6' of 3/8\"-interior diameter beer line as it turns out that the standard line that came with my Danby fridge was too short. It works out that a 12-psi (as above) your beer will stay fresh for 40-60 days, and that a 6' beer line will provide enough resistance that your beer won't pour too fast causing foam.\n\nNow you're ready to enjoy a nice domestic brew. But, should you decide to get a SteamWhistle, you'll need to pick up an A-style keg coupler. The domestic kegs generally all use a standard \"D-style\" keg couplers. The Dandy comes with a D-style one.\n\nOh, you'll also need to buy a kegerator line cleaning kit.\n\nHope that helps with what I went through.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4901, "id": 453013, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 683, "len_tokens": 946, "text": "I have a personal machine shop, maintain my vehicles and service Standby Generators. KEL 132 has been my constant\ncompanion for over 10 years.  The Generators are subject to the worst outdoor environments 24 hours a day, 365\ndays a year.  Often the paint flakes, allowing the metal to rust.  Although it would look better if the Generators were repainted, that seldom happens.  I apply KEL-132 to prevent further rusting.  It generally lasts for years.  Be sure to wipe off excess to minimize attraction of dirt.  On the other hand, if attractiveness is secondary, leave a thick coating.  The dirt attracted will immensely add to the durability of the coting.  If there is little dirt to accumulate, the coating may last only a year or two.  With dirt, the coating is still good after 5 years or more.  You might want to rub in a little dirt just for fun.\n\nOften bolts develop rust on the exposed threads.  Removing the nuts without lubrication twists off the bolts.\nApplying a little KEL-132 allows the nut to be removed with little or no damage.  Even if the nut is rusted to the bolt, a little KEL-132 releases the nut.  (I normally use Freall for rusted bolts.  Apply a little then heat the bolt until the Freall just begins to smoke.  Apply more Freall and let the bolt cool.  The heat reduces the\nviscosity for better penetration.  The cooling draws in the Freall.  The bolts often come out very easily.  Kel-132 seems to work nearly as well and can be used the same way.)\n\nOften spark-plugs are hard to remove because the threads gall (metals weld together due to dry friction),\nespecially for spark-plugs without plated threads that are installed into Aluminum Cylinder Heads.  After\nloosening the spark-plug a fraction of a turn, apply KEL-132 to the gap at the cylinder head.  Screw the spark-plug back in and allow a few minutes for the KEL-132 to penetrate.  The plug now comes out much easier.  If the thread had previously galled and has metal pieces welded to the thread root, applying KEL-132 will prevent further welding and allow the spark-plug to be removed with minimal damage to the threads in the cylinder head.\n\nAlways use spark-plugs with plated threads in an aluminum cylinder head.  I apply Anti-Seize to any spark-plug threads into any metal.  Keep the Anti-Seize away from the plug tip.\n\nI use KEL-132 for drilling and tapping.  It seems to be as good as anything I have used.  For ease of tapping, HSS (High Speed Steel) taps work much better in high carbon steels than the typical HC (High Carbon) taps.  My [Craftsman / \"A Major Department Store Tool Supplier\"] 5/16 HC tap (4 flutes) took about 25 foot pounds of torque.  A HSS Greenle tap from [Grainger / \"A Major Industrial Distributor\"] (2 flutes) took just a few foot pounds.  2 flute taps take perhaps twice the torque before breaking as the typical 4 flute taps.\n\nWasps like to build their nests in or around generators.  Getting stung is not an option.  If a sting leaves me allergic, that would end my employment.  KEL-1322 is useful for killing wasps, but \"Brakleen\" is as good and evaporates instead of leaving a messy film,  The wasps must be relatively saturated, so wait till they land.  Many household cleaners will kill wasps.  Mr Clean from years ago was very effective.\n\nBe careful when using any of these modern chemicals, they can be damaging to life.  The household cleaner products are less toxic to human life.  I avoid using insecticides because insecticides are neuro toxins and can lead to many neurological problems.\n\nThe Kellogg's discount schedule is un-attractive for small suppliers.  I found KEL-132 at an Automotive Parts Store, but they were a distance to drive and often out of KEL-132.  I have ordered KEL-132 in 12 can lots directly from Kellogg's Professional Products.  Call to verify price, then send in an order with a check.  In Sept 2009 it cost me $5.96 per can for a quantity of 12 cans.  $5.74 from Amazon is a good buy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4902, "id": 456365, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 687, "len_tokens": 918, "text": "<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Amana-Bisque-Bottom-Freezer-Freestanding-Refrigerator-ABB2222FEQ/dp/B000UW0BYS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Amana Bisque Bottom Freezer Freestanding Refrigerator ABB2222FEQ</a>\n\nOur model refrigerator is slightly different: ABB2227DEQ, but looks the same.  We purchased our refrigerator at the Sears scratch and dent warehouse for $750, without an ice maker.  We love the refigerator, as far as space, accessibility of items, and flexibility of shelving.  We like the large wide drawer in the bottom, where we can adjust the temperature even further, to keep our meats very cold.  Pop cans or water bottles could go in this drawer, as well.\n\nProblems: We had problems with vegetables freezing, and we spent a lot of time experimenting with changing the temperature of the refrigerator, the freezer, and the meat drawer, all to no avail.  Finally, we called for service before the warranty expired (we procrastinated almost a year).  The first service person found that the back of the freezer was totally frozen, and he defrosted the whole unit and didn't find a problem.  Problems continued, now the freezer didn't get cold enough, so we made another service call. This service person diagnosed the issue as a bad evaporator.  The evaporator was replaced, as well as a filter dryer, and the service person also added a dryer with dye, so that if it malfunctions again the next service person will be able to see where the leak is.  This service person also said that the refrigerator was turned into the \"scratch and dent\" warehouse because of a mechanical problem, not because of the scratches and dents. Lesson learned! Ask why an appliance was turned into the scratch and dent. Hopefully they will let you see the records.\n\nNow, 2 months later, everything appears to be operating fine, temperature wise, but we are hearing a lot of loud gurgling sounds that go on for just a few seconds, usually when the refrigerator is bumped, such as when the refrigerator door is closed, or the freezer drawer is closed.\n\nUnfortunately, it is now out of the original warranty period.  When we called to describe the problem, we were told that there were 4 noises that we'll hear with this refrigerator.  They said gurgling noises are normal when the refrigerator is in a defrost mode.  They couldn't tell us if it was normal for this to happen primarily when the refrigerator is jarred, such as when the refrigerator or freezer door is closed.\n\nNow we're left with a decision to make.  If the gurgling noise is indicative of a problem, and it is related to the repair work done, it will be covered under the 90 day warranty of the repair.  However, if it is a normal noise, and not indicative of a problem, we will be charged $69 for the service call.\n\nWe didn't purchase the extended warranty ($350 for 5 years) on this refrigerator, even though the repair person had recommended we do so, as he said the warranty repair he had done would have cost over $400 if it had been out of warranty. However $350 is almost half the cost of our refrigerator; if we have that much problem with the refrigerator, I think we would rather just invest in a different model than deal with repairs under an expensive warranty.  But, we really should have started calling in for service soon after we bought the refrigerator, rather than procrastinating, thinking we just needed to figure out the correct settings.\n\nFortunately, we do have an additional year warranty, because we purchased the refrigerator with our mastercard gold card, which doubles a  manufacturer warranty, as long as the original warranty is one year or less.\n\nRight now, I'm searching people's comments on this refrigerator to try to determine if the gurgling sound is normal, or not.  Seems like the manufacturer should be able to do a better job of informing us of whether or not there is a need for a service call.\n\nUpdate January 8 2013: Refrigerator works great, and we are still very happy with it, even with the occasional gurgling. I'm updating the star rating to a 4 as after the initial problems, we've been very happy.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4903, "id": 457320, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 763, "len_tokens": 969, "text": "I agree that when the dryer worked, it was great...but when it breaks it's just better to buy a new one and who can afford that every six months? (just for your information: we probably avg. 4 loads a week, so we didn't over use it either).\n\nStory: The dryer worked for six months and then died. The primary concern is that the dryer died in six months, but here is the full story and an example of how Whirlpool, their service contractors and staff operate (search the web for A & E (Whirlpools service company) to hear more horror stories):\n\nI Completly Agree.  A &E and Sears/Whirlpool are a complete disaster. We're on week four for our service request on a Whirlpool Duet dryer that is only six months old. The short story is A&E came in to fix one thing on our dryer and blew out our Heating Element and that part is six weeks away according to A&E.  So between October 1st and Mid December we will be without a Dryer. (Keep these stories in mind when Whirlpool asks you if you want to extend your Warranty for $100+ a year...their service stinks and it's worth the frustration).\n\nEnd Result is still to come..but we got tired of the run around and ordered the parts from Sears Direct (which is where A & E Sears gets their parts) and It should be here tomorrow not December.  There is a big difference between October 30th and December 15th when you're waiting for a part to fix your Dryer.\n\n---------\nFull Story: Our Dryer broke with an F 25 Thermister error and it took a week to get A & E Service (Sears and Whirlpool)  to our house between 8am and 12pm (arriving at 3:30pm).  They told us we needed X, Y, Z parts..The parts took a week to arrive and they were shipped from a place that was only 20 miles away (but we're not allowed to pick them up and they won't pick them up for us either).  Then another week for them to comeback to fix the machine (week 3).  In week three they finally showed up at 3:00pm (for a 8am-12pm window) and a different technician said \"These are all the wrong parts. The person that ordered these didn't know what he was doing.\"\n\nThis guy said that all that was broken was a safety switch and that he could permanently bypass the switch so we never have the problem again.  I asked if it was safe to bypass this and he said that as long as I keep an eye on the dryer and make sure it doesn't get too hot it would be fine.  I expressed my desire to keep my house from burning down and would prefer he just fix the part.  After he tried to convince (bully) me for a few minutes, he finally gave up and said he could fix it a different way and replaced our Thermal Fuse.  I now know that this was a temporary fix for him to get out the door.\n\nThe Dryer worked for two loads and then died again...A & E came back a week later..Yet again a different guy and he said \"the previous guy didn't ground your machine properly and blew out your Heating Element\".  This heating element is out of stock and won't be available until mid-December.\n\nHERE IS THE FUN PART:  After complaining to A&E (owned by SEARS) for breaking everything..we calmed down and did some research.  I figured out who they order parts from SEARS Parts and SEARS Parts Direct (.com).  I called SEARS and they can ship the part the same day and even overnight it to us, but A&E will only talk to FSP Appliance Parts (also owned by SEARS) and A & E says they don't have a phone number for FSP Parts.  So I found the address for FSP and did some web research..figured out that the number for FSP Parts (AKA Sears Roebuck Parts Dept.) in Glen Burnie, MD and called them...The part can be shipped from Texas and arrive in 7-10 days.  Still a long time, but much better than A & E six weeks + one week to get a techinician to come.\n\nEnd Result is still to come..but we got tired of the run around and ordered the parts from Sears Direct..It should be here tomorrow.  There is a big difference between October 30th and December 15th when you're waiting for a part to fix your Dryer.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4904, "id": 458433, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 777, "len_tokens": 926, "text": "I've always wanted a side by side, and finally saved up enough to purchase this one. I was told it was a good refrigerator, well made and all that. It did work for about 10 months before it started blitzing. Lucky for me it was before the warranty ended, not so lucky for me & 4 to 5 visits from the store repairman I believe my problems still have not been resolved. The weird thing is, my model number is GSH22JSXSA, yet its the same side by side using the model number GSH22JSXSS. No repair person can figure out why my model number ends in SA instead of SS, and yes my side by side is stainless steel so that's not it. One repair guy said he believes it is just a newer model as an explaination for this diversion, however plug the model in and nothing, absolutely nothing comes up as that model number. Ok, on to the problems. My s/s started freezing up every thing inside, and melt occured along the front of the door and along the sides which would of course freeze over. I had frozen drips hanging from the shelves and snow covered foods so thick you had to melt it off by running under warm water to know what was in those packages. The first repairman said the situation inside was our fault and occured due to leaving the door open. However, that was not the case, but he over-rode any thing I had to say to the contrary; was rude and very disrespectful. I work or probably would have noticed something that was happening with the s/s sooner. One day during the weekend I happened to open up the freezer section and actually felt heat. Now that was odd. I noticed moisture along the walls of the freezer section as every thing was melting and no evaporation of this moisture occured. The freezer section was really hot towards the top above the ice bin, melting the icecubes causing the half ice and water to coagulate around the auger. The defroster/heater wasn't turning off in a timely manner and melting everything. Weirder yet, after this thaw or what I called intermittent freezer hot flashes, the freezer would go to the opposite extreme of too cold refreezing all the foods stored there even at a setting of 1. Guess what, the door wasn't left opened and hey GE I discovered it wasn't our fault. On several occasions I smelled a burning scent and when I opened the freezer during an especially strong smell of something burning, the heat was more intense from within and the light bulb inside blew up. Not just burn out, it exploded and shards of tiny pieces of glass were on my food in the freezer and my feet on the floor. I still don't know why this happened, other than what the repair person said that the heater  wasn't working right and stays on too long.  Heat rises and ice melts. He didn't seem concerned that this might be a safety issue, the defroster running too long doesn't explain the burning scent and why the light bulb disintegrated. Not to mention what could have happened if I had young children under foot. Mother board replaced, thermostat & sensor replaced, heater replaced, ice cube maker replaced. Once these things were fixed, well sort of, after months of ice cubes melting to the auger so ice didn't dispense I was advised after the last fix that the cubes should dispense just fine. Well the ice cubes still aren't being dispensed. I noticed after the last fix last Friday, ice cubes are not melting, staying separate, and so far no intense heat aka hot flashes. I can't say the freezer is running optimally, not yet... its still running colder than it should even at a setting of 1 \"but\" I haven't noticed burning smells recently, no snow is covering my foods, there are no frozen drips hanging from the shelves or icecycles along the sides and front. Its only been 3 days so all I can say is we will see. But I have to admit, I'm a bit afraid of this appliance, whether it will possibly heat up again and maybe cause a fire, I worry that the light bulb will explode again, I wonder if it will ever work like it should, & I'm hoping I didn't waste the money I spent to buy it. I had a choice, and picked this GE model out of many other brands. All my appliances are GE and all have been quality. GE, what happened with this s/s, what's going on?", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4905, "id": 458572, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 711, "len_tokens": 951, "text": "So I bought this dishwasher from my local appliance store's \"floor model\" section. I was without a dishwasher, had a house full of dirty dishes, and was about to be snowed in so I took a chance. I hadn't checked the Amazon reviews, maybe I would have decided on something else if I had.\n\nFirst of all, my thoughts on price - this is NOT a $1000 dishwasher. I would never have paid that much for it. It is a perfectly good $500 dishwasher, which is what I paid. I could really see people being disgruntled if they had paid a lot for this unit.\n\nThis is, in spite of its price tag and appearance, a pretty mid-grade dishwasher in terms of features and performance - hence me being happy with the $500 price tag.\n\nI want to address some of the common complaints I've seen on here:\n\nComplaint: The handle hits the floor.\nMy Take: No, it doesn't. Where did you mount this? You would have to shove the front door all the way past fully open. Huh? The door doesn't hard-stop at horizontal, is that what you mean?\n\nComplaint: Racks are unwieldy/fall out/come off the rails/etc.\nMy Take: Top rack has been rock solid. Bottom rack isn't actually ON rails, and the door does go past horizontal so ... but seriously? I haven't ever had a problem.\n\nComplaint: No heating element.\nMy Take: It pretty much says in BIG BOLD LETTERS that it doesn't have a heating element. Really? You bought a Ford and you're complaining it doesn't have a twin turbo in it? Umm... yeah.\n\nComplaint: Funny smell.\nMy Take: The first few washes I ran there was a \"new dishwasher, hot plastic/rubber/metal\" smell. It got better and better with each load until it went away. Occasional stink is handled with DISHWASHER CLEANER. You do know they make that, right? Of course you do.\n\nComplaint: It's slow.\nMy Take: As compared to...?\n\nComplaint: Fills with water.\nMy Take: It's a dish... washer. It fills with water. That's what it does.\n\nBut seriously now, here's my thoughts.\n\nCons:\n\n1. No heated dry. This is also a pro, so it really evens out. But if you were looking for heated dry, this isn't going to make you happy. The dishes evaporatively dry. Everything on the lower rack is good and dry, everything on the upper rack that faces downward is dry. Anything with a concave top on the upper rack will be a little damp. That's pretty much to be expected with a unit like this.\n\n2. A limited number of fancy features. You get delicate/normal/heavy wash, rinse only, top rack wash (that's a pro, though) and child lock. That's ... pretty ... much ... it.\n\n3. The flatware rack is a little ... limiting. Not the worst I've seen, but not even as good as my old Whirlpool.\n\n4. No steam. It has \"sani-rinse\" but it's unclear exactly what that does since there's no heating element. I suspect it just makes the water VERY HOT.\n\nNeither Pro nor Con:\n\n1. It's slow. This is to be expected from an ultra-quiet, ultra-efficient unit. A full wash SAYS it will take 2 hours but quickly senses load and dirt levels. With normal loading in my experience it takes about 85 minutes. Not too bad, but not a speed demon.\n\nPro:\n\n1. Stainless tub. Really nice.\n\n2. Super quiet. I feel the vibration in the floor more than I hear the noise of operation. And neither is pronounced.\n\n3. \"Top rack only\" option. This is the one feature I was delighted to have because I really missed it in my old Fisher/Paykel - the ability to JUST wash glasses after you've had people over for drinks or snacks... or after your teenagers have wandered in and out and made every glass you own dirty.\n\n4. High efficiency. Limited water use.\n\n5. No heating element. Yeah, that means no heated dry. But it also mean no melted tupperware.\n\n6. Load and soil sensing. The unit starts with a guesstimate for time and water needed, and adjusts from there. I'm pretty impressed, actually. A heavily soiled load took 95+ minutes, more lightly soiled loads as little as 70, the average has been around 80-85.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4906, "id": 463736, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 767, "len_tokens": 931, "text": "Ventahood is a old and sturdy brand. What is has going for it is that it's been around forever, and probably will be...That's important for parts and warranty issues - which are only of concern if something happens... and something always happens.  I've had many houses, and many hoods, and frankly, I never gave them much thought since they usually come with the house. However, when it came time to retrofit our newest home with a hood I had to get into taking a hard look at the things. A hood should do something. Most just get installed and turned on to take a lick at removing smoke from the kitchen. And, most don't work very well at all. Any hood that puts the air back in the room with you is just dumb - open a window, open the door... Ventahood makes an expensive ARS model now, that filters the air, but it's kind of pricey - and puts the now hot air back in the kitchen with you. But, they do work on the smoke and smells - at a relatively stiff price for the filters... We went for an exhaust-pipe-to-the-outside hood to get the \"dirty and hot\" air out of the kitchen/out of the house. Now, here's the thing... We actually installed two vent exhaust pipes during our retrofit - one pipe for the range top exhaust and another for the entire room. Hey, we bake, the OVEN puts out smoke too! Anyhow, Ventahood missed their ship date several times and left us with wondering what it would be like to move the room exhaust blower over to the range exhaust pipe. (Both are 8\" pipes.) No big surprise, a fan is a fan and the steam and smoke went away very quickly. I put up a temporary \"shell\" over the range and it worked about as well as the $1,000.00 vent hood did later. Ventahood makes some sense in their basic design - a deeper hood catches rising air, smoke and steam - which tends to go up - and removes what collects in the hood. Flat surfaced hoods would need to, I tend to agree, have to do a bit more to \"attract\" the smoke and keep it moving. More \"attraction\" means more noise due to higher fan and air speeds - and it is the moving air speed that makes the noise, not the fan motors. We piddled with that \"catch basin\" idea a bit and made temporary shells that tended to prove a collector works better than a flat surface. (Can you catch anything with a flat hand?) So, we finally get the Ventahood - in white - and we're very pleased with the brightness of the white over the stainless steel look, etc. - especially on the inside of the hood which reflects more light to the work surface. We try the fans out and are very happy that the low speed is not all that loud, and that the unit \"collects\" smoke and steam very easily and gets the stuff out of the house. Cooking bacon has never been less of a chore... Our house smells better, our clothes smell better, and we'll wind up with our paint and furniture staying \"new\" longer. I'd probably give this unit, and those like it 4.5 stars if I could - nothing is perfect. But, maybe since we'll never have to worry much about parts we can't get, etc., 5 stars (.5 for the brand name) isn't too much to ask. \"Buy the best you can afford\" is usually good advice. On the other hand, keep in mind that ten minutes after you install your new hood you'll start forgetting it's there... A hood, after all, is just a hood. A hood that does what a hood should do, on the other hand, is something to appreciate - even if only when you actually need it and it works. We haven't had this long enough to have to clean it, but I'm over six feet and it doesn't seem like much of a chore. Actually, since it's just the collection pan most the time, and not \"filters\" it seems easier than it could be on other units. Nothing is perfect, but I tend to favor things with fewer moving parts. This thing only has a couple and it seems like a forgiving design in terms of not cleaning it all the time. We'll probably buy another one from Ventahood the next time around - there are lots of \"knock off\" units that are cheaper, but there are cheaper cars too.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4907, "id": 464772, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 814, "len_tokens": 957, "text": "I like this machine a lot and would not hesitate to buy one again. After almost 20 years of flawless service our Kenmore top loader started to act up and we knew it was time to replace it. We did not like the new generation of high efficiency top loaders so that led us to look at the recent crop of front loaders and there are a shocking amount to choose from. Each brand has a ton of 5 star rating reviewed machines and those reviews that were negative were very few. So we narrowed down our selection to front loaders that did the basics which ruled out steam, and water heating. All I wanted was some basic cleaning cycles for normal, perm press, delicate and heavy duty. Most of my washes are done using cold water and I only use hot water for washing whites so my requirements are simple.\n\nThere were not a lot of reviews for the Speed Queen Front Load washing machines, but the internals used in the Speed Queen home washer are also used in their commercial laundry mat washers except that the laundry mat version has a coin collector/credit card reader and a commercial looking outer shell. So this gave me the opportunity to do a few loads with a Speed Queen front load machine before buying. That convinced me to get one and after washing many a load at home I have no regrets.\n\nI am not going to go into the details of what I like about my Speed Queen AFN50F for I suggest that you decide that for yourself by going to the local laundry mat and give one a try. Be aware that you need to look for the particular commercial models that have the same internal design as the home model. These are typically the smallest Speed Queen front load washers in the place. Speed Queen also has some larger more heavy duty all stainless commercial models that are not the same. Bring your worst washing problems and let the Speed Queens have at them. By the end of the first few loads you will know if this machine is for you!\n\nUpdate: 8/4/2014 - Some usage experience: The published capacity is 2.84 cubic and the laundry capacity in weight of dry clothes is 18 lbs.  This should work out to be two loads of laundry assuming a load of laundry is defined as 9 lbs of dry clothes or one bushel basket in size. The volume of a bushel basket is 1.244 cubic feet. In actual practice, however, I find the capacity to be around 12-13 pounds or 1-1/2 loads or about 1.9 cubic feet of laundry which is equivalent in size to the machine it replaced.\n\nUpdate: 8/16/2014 - With only two of us we typically do laundry every two weeks. Our laundry is divided into four batches which are sheets and towels, whites, darks and light color clothing. The size of each batch works out to 9 lbs. or one laundry basket, 8 lbs. or one laundry basket, 15-17 lbs. darks and lights respectively filling two plus laundry baskets each. As you can see the lights and darks are the biggest loads. My early estimates on load size in selecting this washer indicated that my largest loads should have fit but with my first uses I was a little hesitant to completely fill the drum causing me to do multiple loads to wash the lights and darks. However having re-read the manual I filled drum completely per the manual's instructions which meant not stuffing or compressing the clothes when filling. This allowed me to fully load all the dark and light clothing into a single load each upping the load size stated in my 8/14/2014 update above, thus increasing my load capacity experience to the full 2.84 cubic feet. Once wet the fully loaded clothes compacted to allow for a good washing action. In addition the washes took just 45 minutes to complete which is much less time than the other front load washers I had considered also meaning that even with the extra loads it potentially takes less time to do laundry than with the other front load brands. This machine delivers the full rated load and makes short work of the wash. I hope these details help all of you in making your next washer selection.\n\nUpdate: 2/4/15 - It has been five months since I purchased this machine and it is still going strong. No mold or mildew problems, hiccups or complaints. Just load and go! As an FYI, for 2015 Speed Queen has introduced a new design front load washer with larger capacity and more wash cycles and with a 5 year warrantee on the entire machine. So if you are in the market for a new front load Speed Queen I'd suggest the 2015 model.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4908, "id": 467943, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 508, "len_tokens": 932, "text": "I bought this to replace the Fox Run Garbage Disposer Screen (<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Fox-Run-Garbage-Disposer-Screen-Plastic/dp/B00022EWZA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Fox Run Garbage Disposer Screen, Plastic</a>) I'd bought four months earlier, which broke. This white strainer is 3 1/8 inches, best I can measure, which gives it the perfect amount of wiggle room in my Insinkerator garbage disposal.\n\nRight from the start, I like this strainer much better. First off, the plastic is thick all the way around. I have no worries that it will break as the Fox Run one did. Secondly, the center grasping tab sticks out on both sides so that there is no right side up. The Fox Run screen had a holding knob on only one side. That was a problem because the strainer would easily get flipped upside down when a large amount of water was dumped down the drain, and then it was very hard to remove and flip over because there was nothing to grasp to pull the strainer out.\n\nOne disadvantage to this strainer is that the center grasping tab is not flared at all toward the top but is straight like a dowel. That makes it hard to pull out sometimes, especially if any slick substance is poured down the drain. Flaring the tab is the one main way to improve this product, so far as I can see.\n\nThe holes are smaller than the Fox Run strainer but still allow water to drain down well enough even when food particles are trapped above. The hole-size is another advantage over Fox Run. The Fox Run strainer allowed my kids toddler cup plastic straws to fall through the larger square holes in the strainer. Also, the thicker plastic and smaller holes do SOOOO much to block the sound of my garbage disposal -- it's amazing how quiet it sounds with this strainer in.\n\nOverall, it is a much better product than Fox Run, and I'm pretty sure will do the job without breaking. If I were purchasing again, I'd now look for one that also has flared grasping knobs. However, I haven't found any reversible strainers like that on Amazon. There are a few buying options for this same strainer:\n\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/LASCO-02-4021-White-Plastic-Disposal-Sink-Strainer-Fits-Most/dp/B000FSTX8W/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">LASCO 02-4021 White Plastic Disposal Sink Strainer Fits Most</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/LDR-501-5120-Garbage-Disposal-Plastic-Strainer-High-Impact-Fit-All-Design/dp/B000I1AQVY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">LDR 501 5120 Garbage Disposal Plastic Strainer - High Impact, Fit All Design</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Plumb-Shop-Div-Brasscraft-322-115-Plastic-Garbage-Disposal-Strainer/dp/B003CELF46/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Plumb Shop Div Brasscraft 322-115 Plastic Garbage Disposal Strainer</a>\n<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/Garbage-Disposal-and-Sink-Strainer-Guard-White-Plastic-Manufactured-in-USA/dp/B00L6IMLUC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">Garbage Disposal and Sink Strainer Guard - White Plastic - Manufactured in USA</a>\n\nGiven my own concerns about which strainer to buy, and my initial bad choice, I thought I should try to help others do better. I even like the white color better than the black, and it hasn't gotten stained at all despite all the staining liquids that have gone through it. If you want a simple, reversible plastic strainer, I don't know that you can get better than this. Though if you find one with flared handles, comment to let me and others know.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4909, "id": 468115, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 703, "len_tokens": 913, "text": "This washer fills a very important niche, and does it well.  If your home is not outfitted with hookups (or doesn't allow washers), this is great model to consider for the following reasons:\n\n1.  Quality build\nI had a Haier before this, and I honestly didn't trust it very much.  I really think you get what you pay for, and with this one I can set and forget with confidence.  Of course, it is more expensive than other models, but considering the premium you would have to pay to get an apartment already fitted with hookups, you may still be saving money in the longrun.\n\n2.  Great faucet adapter fitting\nFirst, don't make the mistake I did when setting up.  The adapter has threads on both the outside and inside to accommodate basically any faucet aerator connection.  I didn't notice the inside threads because there is a double rubber washer covering it.  Take the upper rubber washer out to expose the inner threads!  I felt very embarrassed at the hardware store when looking for another adapter.  It turns out I didn't need one!\n\nThe adapter has a water bypass switch.  Just push the red button and it allows water to flow thru the bottom.  You can use this to test water temperature, or to otherwise use the sink while running a load.  Great idea!  The faucet adapter also houses the drain so that you basically have just one connection to worry about if you're hooking up and detaching frequently (like I am).  The ridge connection to the faucet ensures that the drain cannot slip out and end up on the floor (happened with my Haier once.)  Also, it allows the release of line pressure so there isn't an explosion of water every time you disconnect.\n\n3.  Reasonably quiet\nI've heard quieter washers (like the ones in Japan, where all you hear is the swish of water, like a river is washing your clothes), but this one isn't terribly loud.  Basically a rhythmic hum during the wash cycle and you can guess what spin sounds like.  I did some tests from outside my apartment, it can be faintly heard on the other side of the wall, but I don't think I'd notice it if I wasn't intentionally listening for it.  It can definitely be quieter, but was satisfied with the sound level.  (My complex doesn't allow washers so I have to be very sensitive to this issue).\n\n4.  BIG, but portable\nThe washer is big (nearly full sized).  I consider this washer to really be the upper limit of capacity for an apartment-type portable.  My previous Haier was pathetically small.  Although it scared me when they delivered it, (OMG this box is big!) it is surprisingly light (only about 100lbs).  The casters are fairly decent for rolling front and back.  I think GE should improve the casters to make it easier to change angles.  After all, being a \"portable\" implies that it should move easier.\n\n5.  Other\nAgitator-less: I think this is a necessity for all portables space saving purposes.  However, it also has the benefit of being much easier on clothes.\nReasonably energy-efficient\nEasy to setup\n\nOverall, I'm very happy with the washer.  It's been enormously convenient, and much more pleasant than using public laundry facilities.  I would definitely purchase again!  As my impression develops with use, I will update this review.  For now I give it 4 stars, but as I've only had for 1 month, I would like to use it longer before giving it a 5th star.  If it continues to serve me as it has without problems, it very well could achieve it.\n\nUPDATE 12/7/2013:\nStill very happy with the washer, and glad I got it!  It's been almost 6months and not one problem.  I still think the casters could be improved more, but it hasn't been too hard to move.  The water level does seem parsimonious, (consistent with other reviewers' experience), but I trust expertise at GE as they know alot more about washers than I ever will.\n\nI will update again if the situation should change but I'm giving this washer it's 5th star.  It's simply the best out there for washer-less apartments!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4910, "id": 468700, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 783, "len_tokens": 927, "text": "Over the years my DMT400RHS became much, much louder and developed two kinds of squeal/while/high-pitched noises/sounds: one during washing cycle, another during drying. Internet is full of complains about both, there are different recommendations on what to do, but here is the fix/solution to both. Noise during drying cycle comes from the drying motor that is in the door, the motor has two cage type fans that circulate cold and hot air loops for the condensation drying. Each fan has with parallel fins attached to a round disk on one side, I had to disassemble the door (easy) and remove the motor from the plastic ducts (not so easy). I could immediately see that hot air look fan fins got melted and shaped into more of an open cone instead of a cylinder and I could see edges ground by the housing they started to catch. To fix it I created a notch about 10mm from the end of each fin on the outward edges by rotating the fan and touching them with a tip of soldering gun. Then I put a thin copper wire into the notch and around the fins to pull them back into the cylindrical shape and re-assembled the motor/ducts/door. Note that motor and ducts have some sealant in the connections, I used some silicone caulk to seal it back. This fix gets rid of the noise completely in my case. Being an engineer I can tell it's a design flaw, saved 5 cents worth of plastic and didn't check for temperature resistance, or it was done on purpose to make people buy a new one in 2 years.\nThe washing cycle noise came in from the pump pulley being too low on the shaft. I unscrewed all the screws and removed all the covers that are layered above the motor pulley (easy) for cleaning and also unscrewed and removed the pulley. I noticed, that there is some circular abrasion under it. Being familiar with design approaches and/or manufacturing defects, immediately realized this is the issue, to fix it put a 1mm thick stainless steel washer between the disposer knife and the pulley. I also added a smaller washer of the same thickness on top of the shaft in order not to create a strain on the plastic pulley (manufactured this washer myself with the use of a drill and a rotary tool, since the shaft has splines) in order not to create a stress on the top of the pulley from the pressure of the screw, but it may be a bit of an overkill, I guess a big flat washer under the screw could take care of it. This took care of the second noise in my case.\nThese two problems were on top of the very first problem that I had with this dishwasher right after warranty period expired. It developed a leak through the corners of the door because of splitting of the plastic halves of the lower spray arm. Samsung even had a warning about it on their website. When this happens it starts spraying water really hard horizontally and it's forced through the seal on the sides. Had to order a replacement arm which has been holding ok since then.\nThe verdict - crappily built piece of appliance, designed to make owners waste their money and suffer for an extended period of time.\nSamsung really frustrated me with the quality of their appliances, out of a set of 4 (fridge, hybrid induction range, OTR microwave and dishwasher) EVERY single one had issues/repairs over 4 years I had it. Induction range inverter module had to be replaced 4 times during the first year and was finally fixed by \"revision B\" of it. Microwave hi power circuit relay fried and stuck in an ON position, causing it to turn on by itself when you close the door. I'm glad we were home when it happened, fixed it with replacing a $10 relay. Fridge stopped cooling at some point and stuff would go bad in no time, until we noticed. They have some kind of magnetic type switches on the top of the doors that are affected by any piece of metal coming into proximity and when that happens it thinks that the door is open, turn inside light on and stops the fan that runs air through the evaporator coil. Why do they have to stop the fan when the door is open, I have no idea. To save me 3 cents of energy a year? To not suck me in? In any case, by the time I found out what was happening, I spent hours on troubleshooting and had the cover/fan partially disassembled.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4911, "id": 468766, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 749, "len_tokens": 932, "text": "The number of cycles, and options per cycle, are just staggering. At first, it's even confusing, since there are so many.\n\nYou select the cycles with the main central dial. From left to right, the cycles are: Favorites specialty, Deep clean sanitize, Heavy duty, Whitest white, Colors, Normal, Casual, Active wear, Fast wash, Delicate, Hand wash, Rinse & spin.\n\nThen in the LCD window, you get the water temperature (7 levels), the spin speed (6 levels), the soil level (6 levels) and several other options that include: Add steam, Eco friendly, Allergen, Extended fresh, Shrink guard, Add more water, Stain pretreat, Fresh rinse, Extra spin, Pre wash, Warm rinse, Delay start.\n\nBut that is not all. When you select the Favorites specialty cycle, there are even more cycles available from the LCD window. There are two options displayed in the LCD window under the Favorites specialty cycle: My Favorites and Specialty cycles. Select the latter, and there you get more cycles by rotating the main dial: those are Jeans, Fast sanitize, Stuffed animals, Pet beds, Clean washer, Steam pretreat, Kids wear, Fast steam and Wool. Impressive, as would say Darth Vador!!\n\nAnd then the fun begins, as you can combine all these options. But not always. For example, if you select the Deep clean sanitize cycle, you will obviously not be able to deselect the steam option.\n\nYou can wash almost anything in this appliance. The wash drum is big enough to easily wash a comforter.\n\nThe washer is very efficient on water consumption compared to a top-load appliance and the spin cycle removes a lot of water, so that the time in the dryer is well reduced. The clothes are very well cleaned, in a very soft manner that certainly helps protect them in the long term.\n\nBut the feature that impress me the most is the quietness of the appliance. The washer is in my bathroom, next to my home office. With my previous top-load washer, I had to close the door of the bathroom to be able to work. With this one, even with the bathroom door opened, I hear nothing. In the first few days, I even got up from my desk a couple of times to go see in the bathroom if the washer was still working. There, I couldn't believe that it was indeed washing!\n\nThe reason I give 4 stars rather than 5 is related to the Electrolux after-sales service. When I installed the washer, I made the mistake of placing the drain hose too deep inside the wall-pipe. That caused the washer to stop working on the very first wash I made with it, because it couldn't empties at the end of the cycle. An error message displayed in the LCD window said that the washer needed a service call, labelling the trouble Code 13, and displayed also a 1-800 number. It was on a saturday, so I called... Of course, nobody answered. The recorded voice message rather said that Electrolux office was closed and there was no option to leave a message... When I phoned back on Monday, the lady could only offer me to give a call to the store where I bought the washer... This is not an emergency phone number and it's totally useless...\n\nAnyway, the appliance is just great and washes very quietly and so far, I am very pleased with it. As for the long term reliability, this is the only question I can't answer yet.\n\nYes, I would recommend it to a friend.\n\nUPDATE 2014-01-12\nI raise the rating from 4 to 5 stars for the following reason: I have a set of white satin bed sheets that had become yellowish with time, no matter how I washed them in my previous top-load washer. I have not count the number of times I washed this set in my new Electrolux washer, because I wasn't expecting such outcome, but after, I would say, 5 washes at the most in my new washer, they are white again.\n\nIt struck me the last time I took them out of the dryer: they were white again! I've never seen anything like that in my whole life, and I am over 50. I did not change the detergent or the fabric softener, I use the same popular brand of liquid detergent and liquid fabric softener. So it means the washer makes the difference. Very glad I purchased this set (washer and dryer), it has so far surpassed my expectations.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4912, "id": 469090, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 807, "len_tokens": 978, "text": "The truth about appliances\n\nDo you want to know why most machines in the market today only last 7 to 10 years at best? Quite some years ago, manufacturers had a revelation. The average home-owner was only keeping his house for about 7 to 10 years and they would replace every appliance when they moved out. Also, the divorce rate means any machine today will outlast a marriage 2 or 3 times; and who buys major appliances most of the time? - married couples. I know this because I worked at an appliance store myself. So the big manufacturers thought: \"Why spend extra money on quality components when we can make more affordable - aka cheap - products with just the right amount of life expectancy? It would create more business, more jobs right?\" Well, it doesn't help us when those jobs are shipped overseas. Unfortunately, if you want a quality product that will last the ages, there is only one choice on the market. And I don't say unfortunately because I don't like Speed Queen; I say unfortunately because the market for quality products is not preponderant.  The mind of the great majority of consumers still thinks that cheap and full of gizmos is good. Just like in their houses and their marriages, they are not partial to making a long term commitment.\nFortunately, for those of us who still believe in long term commitment, and expect it so from our machines, there is Speed Queen.\n\nHere are a few examples of why Speed Queen is a good product for reasons other than the product itself.\n- By buying this product, you are supporting Americans who built this product right here in the USA. This benefits everyone; the more money we keep here, the better off we all are, and the transportation costs are all kept nationally.\n- They are better built, so instead of going thru 10 units in your lifetime you might go thru 3 our 4 at the most. Think of the resources saved.\n- They are more efficient, so more resources are saved there too, not to mention your own savings on electricity, gas and water.\n- You buy from local merchants who invest in your own community, pay taxes and employ local people. No single major retailer out there carries Speed Queen. They know there's no money in servicing these machines because they rarely every break down, and the discounts they get for buying in massive quantities save them even more money but they rarely pass those savings on to you.\n\nBut, let me give you the best example of why you should \"invest\" in a Speed Queen as opposed to \"spend money\" on another brand.\nI worked at a furniture/appliance store for 6 years. We sold Crosleys, Frigidaires, Whirlpools and Maytags; and would consistently get a number of calls on washers / driers that failed within the first year. No official record was kept but I would say 1 in 10 failed, regardless of brand. By the way, the brand of those machines is irrelevant, odds are, some other manufacturer makes it and they just rebrand it.  Last time I checked, Whirlpool manufactured Maytag and Crosley, and Frigidaire  manufactured Kenmore. This is not the case with Speed Queen, they are thru and thru, Speed Queens to the last bolt.\nAnyway back to the story, in 2006 we started selling Speed Queens. We still we got a number of calls regarding first-year failures, but NONE, not even ONE, EVER, involved a Speed Queen. I left the store on 2008 and four years later called them to see about getting a set for myself, because guess what failed at my home after 9 years? - my Kenmore dryer. Its matching washer is still going, but is inefficient and has had many repairs. I asked the owner if to the date they've gotten a call regarding a Speed Queen. The answer is still \"No\".\n\nThere is no denying, those color-coordinated appliances with their fancy electronic buttons and with more features and options than a BMW I-drive system are pretty to look at. But if I want something pretty to look at, I'll put my money on the rest of that BMW and take it for a spin; while I let my washer / drier - that nobody gets too look at but me - spin my clothes clean in a reliable, consistent, trouble-free fashion, year after year.\n\nBy the way, I am investing on a new Speed Queen ADE4BRG Electric Dryer and a Speed Queen AFN50RS front load washer. I could have spent the same amount of money buying twice as many machines from Kenmore, but I don't want to revisit the subject in at least 20 years or so. I'll let you know how it turns out.\n\nRobert T.\nDallas, TX", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4913, "id": 469920, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 699, "len_tokens": 951, "text": "We got this locally in white, but it's the exact same as this black one, so we're posting here too in case this can help someone...\n\nWe got this adorable little gas range for our new place this past autumn. Our old one was on its last legs, and even though it was a full size range, we decided to opt for this 20\" model.  We don't plan on cooking a 20lb turkey or anything, so this was plenty big for us (though some talented soul probably could pull off a 20 pounder to perfection in this thing.)\n\nNeed More Room In Your Kitchen?\n\nSure, there's only 10 inches difference in the width of this one compared to a standard 30\" range, but sometimes, a small variance makes all the difference in the world.  Getting this compact range allowed us to rearrange our kitchen so we could fit a compact&nbsp;<a data-hook=\"product-link-linked\" class=\"a-link-normal\" href=\"/LG-Washer-Dryer-Combo/dp/B0039V7JFG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8\">LG Washer Dryer Combo</a>, and THAT, my friends, HAS made an E.N.O.R.M.O.U.S impact on our quality of life for sure!  All of which would not have been possible without this small and mighty range!  To help you visualize it, just imagine a standard range with the 2 columns of burners, on the left and right.  Between them, is the empty center column, which we all basically use for spoons and trivets.  Well, if you remove that center column and then squish the 2 sides together, you get this little range.  But don't let the size fool you, it's still plenty spacious in there.  Yes, we do have to put our large cookie sheet in sideways now, but it still fits just fine.\n\nInside Dimensions\n\nThis range is deeper than it is wide, and it's just as deep as a standard range; only the width has been condensed. The approximate inside dimensions of the oven are:  14\"w x 19\"d x 16\"h.  It has 2 adjustable racks, so that gives 2 levels of cooking space. Perfect for us.\n\nHeat Accuracy & Performance\n\nThe temp dial for the oven seems pretty accurate to the actual temperature.  No, I haven't measured anything scientifically, but going by instinct and compared to the other ranges I've had in my life -- this one beats them all.  I learned how to tweak my other ranges up or down to accommodate for variances, but with this little guy, 400 means 400; and so on, down the line of temps.  We've had this about 4 months now, and use it daily.  So we have plenty of experience with it and are very happy with how it has performed for us.\n\nAuto-Ignition Oven & Burners\n\nIt took a couple of months before I stopped instinctively reaching for a lighter to ignite the burners for my morning oatmeal. This thing has an auto ignition that does NOT require a lit pilot; not for the oven, and not for the burners.  Sounds like no biggie?  Guess again.  Those tiny little burning pilots go a long way in heating up the entire house during a blistering summer, which in turn, makes us ramp up the A/C.  So not having any lit pilots that stay on 24/7 is a huge deal.  These electric ignitions work like a charm, each and every time.  It took 4 months, but I've finally stopped reaching for that darn lighter.\n\nBroiler\n\nYes, this does have a broiler and rack on the bottom.  We haven't used it much, but like that it's there.\n\nOven Light\n\nAnother H.U.G.E improvement!  Our old range did have a window on the oven door, but no light inside; another 'little thing' that's actually a B.I.G thing.  We love being able to look inside at what's cooking without opening the oven door.  We use the light all the time.  Fantastic!\n\nBottom Line -- We LOVE our small and mighty little gas range.  Amana has been around for years, so we trust our little gas range will be too.  And it looks really good too. Nothing but love here for that little guy!! Thanks to him, we now get to do laundry at HOME for the first time in 25 years!  Thanks little cutie; you've helped make a big difference in our lives!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4914, "id": 475482, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 749, "len_tokens": 983, "text": "I am new to kegorators so this will be helpful to anyone having concerns about the unit performing as intended. First 1/2 1/4 kegs will fit.  The 1/4 kegs can be tall or short.  The short ones may be housed in black rubber. They will fit tightly but must be raised about 6 inches so the door closes. But try to avoid the rubber cased kegs.\n\nCustomer Service:\nI had to call customer service.  yes a few screws were missing.  I had no problem reaching someone and they had them to me in just a few days.  The operator knew the product and knew what to send.  She helped me register it too.\n\nBeer Kegs and hookup\nA 1/4 keg of beer cost about 90.00 so let it be the last thing you buy.  (Or you might end up in Reviewer Lisa's situation. Sorry Lisa.) Set up the fridge first. Even though the directions are not crystal clear you can hook up the hoses without a problem just don't rush.  There are o-rings you may or may not need.  My suggestion is to look at the fittings that screw together.  If there is no o-ring then add one.  Mine had all o-rings in place.  the ones in the bags were probably extras. When hooking up hoses i did not use the plastic hose clamps instead i used steel micro clamps.  I used Teflon on the screw on parts and if it had a nut i used a wrench.\n\nRun the fridge at 1/2 temp for about 2 days.  If it dies with a keg in it you just lost about 40.00.\n\nFill your co2.  Welding shops, Fire extinguisher service, ect. will charge the tank for about 15.00.\n\nHook up your co2 and regulate it to 8 psi. Yes you can hook this up without a keg attached.  The regulator is adjusted with a screw.  After you have tightened everything including the co2 tank turn off flip valve leading to keg, Turn the adjusting screw counter clockwise until it stops. Open co2 tank valve all the way.  The gauge on left is for tank capacity. It will read GOOD (or be in the green area) SLOWLY adjust the screw clockwise until it reads 8psi. It has a nut on it so lock it down to keep the screw setting. Now open the flip valve to the keg. Now test for leaks with soapy water. Wait a few mins and re-adjust tank pressure if needed.\n\nTurn up fridge to full\nGo get Keg. No rubber!\n\nOpen fridge and tap keg.  The handle on the tap will be locked in the up position. Locate and line up pins on keg with nipples on tap. Push down and turn to lock.  Unlock the tap to release beer by pulling out handle and pushing down then back in. place keg in fridge.\n\nWait!  about 20-30 mins.  Yes go take a shower you have worked up a sweat.\n\nServe beer. the first 3-5 glasses will have some foam but after that you should be good to go.\n\nNow if you need additional help the fellas at your beer store may tell you all you keen to know.\n\nMy fridge ran for about 12 hours after adding the keg so i opened the door and lowered it till it shut off.  Beer is very cold.\n\nAVOID\nBeer line touching cold plate. it will freeze, you will panic and blame you momma. I did not do that.  I warmed up the lines with hands and life went on.\nRubberized kegs.  They look cool but will not fit well.\nCutting the Co2 hose.  4-5 feet is minimum.\n\nWHAT does Co2 do?\n2 things.\nIt keeps beer fresh. Ab out 1.5 months.\nIt also regulates how fast it pours.  adjust to low and it may not flow, adjust to high and you will get foam.\nDo not adjust co2 too much after keg is attached.  The regulator does not work like a faucet.  It needs to be closed, drained of pressure before it can be adjusted.  So shut off tank, swing the flip valve horizontal (closed), and close screw valve (counter clockwise) until pressure reads 0. Now swing the flip valve to release pressure (open it)in hose leading to keg. Now swing flip valve closed again, open tank, adjust psi (clockwise) with screw valve, open swing valve, resume drinking beer.\n\nI have found that light beer is good at 8psi and regular beer is best at 6psi\n\nCheers!!", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4915, "id": 477587, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 715, "len_tokens": 904, "text": "This heating element totally works.\n\nBut.\n\nIt is NOT the most likely thing that will go out on your freezer. Learn from my experience!\n\nIf you have a freezer that *isn't freezing*, it is usually because it isn't defrosting. (The frost buildup blocks the airflow past the cooling fins.)\nThere are two *more likely* things to check and replace before replacing the relatively expensive heating element.\n\n#1  The Defrost Timer ( Frigidaire 297318010 Defrost Timer) is VERY likely to give out eventually. It is just a mechanical timer, so it has a small motor that can go bad or its metal contacts can get fouled by the normal arcing that happens as it switches from refrigerate to defrost mode and back. This is super easy to get to and replace from the back of the freezer. It's about ten to fifteen bucks, so it's a cheap easy fix. (To diagnose, look for the little dial that you can turn. If you turn it, it will click and the freezer should turn off, then turn it just a little more and it should turn back on. If that happens, the contacts are fine. (If it doesn't turn the freezer off and on, then the contacts are fouled - so replace the timer.) If the contacts are fine, next mark a line on the dial and move it to the 12 o'clock position. Wait a few hours and come back and check it. If it is still in the 12 o'clock position, then the motor on the timer is dead, and you need to replace it. If however the timer has turned to, say, 2 o'clock, then the timer is still good and it is very likely that there is a different cause for the freezer to have stopped.\n\n(I had to laugh when our 1960's refrigerator in our lab was freezing up and I quickly diagnosed it as the defrost timer...)\n\n#2  The Thermostat ( Frigidaire 297318010 Defrost Timer ) is located inside the freezer, behind the bottom back panel, near the heat exhanger that looks like a radiator. (On mine, it was at the upper left corner of the heat exchanger.) The thermostat is fairly easy to get to, and you can replace it for about ten bucks. (Especially if it looks bloated or like it came apart at all, just replace it.) To get to it, remove the shelves, and unscrew the panel. Pull the dial for the temperature selector straight off, and unclip the temp selector from the panel. There will likely be a LOT of ice behind it, if you haven't already defrosted the unit.  If you still have to defrost it, unplug the freezer and place a fan inside of it (up on a couple boards to  keep it out of the melting water). Leave the door open and the fan going for a couple hours and the ice will all be gone, easily, except for the water all over the floor... I'd defrost it in the garage, or outside if possible.\n\n#3  This defrost heater / heating element ( Frigidaire 216730700 Defrost Heater for Freezer ) is located under the heat exchanger, and is attached with some thin aluminum strips. It shouldn't really go bad, so I'd try replacing the above two items first. But if they don't fix it... well here's another forty or fifty bucks to throw at fixing the problem. Be careful with the aluminum strips that hold the defrost heater in place, and you can re-use them. (If they break, do NOT use a non-aluminum wire to hold it in place, or you could ruin your freezer!)\n\nOther diagnostics:  (I haven't done these, but they came up in my searches and fixes.)\n  If the fan doesn't run inside, that's a fairly obvious thing to replace, and looks to be pretty easy. Be sure to cycle the defrost timer to check it.\n  If there is just not enough cooling, but there is no frost buildup and the fan works, then the temperature selector might be the problem.\n  If the compressor doesn't run, there is a capacitor that I've seen come up as a replacement part.\n  If nothing works at all - no lights, no fan, no compressor, then you might have had a power surge that blew out the computer board.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4916, "id": 484951, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 710, "len_tokens": 907, "text": "The dryer worked for six months and then died.  The primary concern is that the dryer died in six months, but here is the full story and an example of how Whirlpool, their service contractors and staff operate (search the web for A & E (Whirlpools service company) to hear more horror stories):\n\nA &E (owned by Sears/Whirlpool) are a complete disaster. We're on week four for our service request on a new Whirlpool Duet dryer. The short story is A&E came in to fix one thing on our dryer and blew out our Heating Element and that part is six weeks away according to A&E.  So between October 1st and Mid December (2.5 months) we will be without a Dryer. (Keep this story in mind when Whirlpool asks you if you want to extend your Warranty for $100+ a year...their service stinks and it's not worth the frustration).\n\nEnd Result is still to come..but we got tired of the run around and ordered the parts from Sears Direct (which is where A & E Sears gets their parts) and It should be here tomorrow not December.  There is a big difference between October 30th and December 15th when you're waiting for a part to fix your Dryer.\n\n---------\nFull Story: Our Dryer broke with an F 25 Thermister error and it took a week to get A & E Service (Sears and Whirlpool)  to our house between 8am and 12pm (arriving at 3:30pm).  They told us we needed X, Y, Z parts..The parts took a week to arrive and they were shipped from a place that was only 20 miles away (but we're not allowed to pick them up and they won't pick them up for us either).  Then another week for them to comeback to fix the machine (week 3).  In week three they finally showed up at 3:00pm (for a 8am-12pm window) and a different technician said \"These are all the wrong parts. The person that ordered these didn't know what he was doing.\"\n\nThis guy said that all that was broken was a safety switch and that he could permanently bypass the switch so we never have the problem again.  I asked if it was safe to bypass this and he said that as long as I keep an eye on the dryer and make sure it doesn't get too hot it would be fine.  I expressed my desire to keep my house from burning down and would prefer he just fix the part.  After he tried to convince (bully) me for a few minutes, he finally gave up and said he could fix it a different way and replaced our Thermal Fuse.  I now know that this was a temporary fix for him to get out the door.\n\nThe Dryer worked for two loads and then died again...A & E came back a week later..Yet again a different guy and he said \"the previous guy didn't ground your machine properly and blew out your Heating Element\".  This heating element is out of stock and won't be available until mid-December.\n\nHERE IS THE FUN PART:  After complaining to A&E (owned by SEARS) for breaking everything..we calmed down and did some research.  I figured out who they order parts from SEARS Parts and SEARS Parts Direct (.com).  I called SEARS and they can ship the part the same day and even overnight it to us, but A&E will only talk to FSP Appliance Parts (also owned by SEARS) and A & E says they don't have a phone number for FSP Parts.  So I found the address for FSP and did some web research..figured out that the number for FSP Parts (AKA Sears Roebuck Parts Dept.) in Glen Burnie, MD and called them...The part can be shipped from Texas and arrive in 7-10 days.  Still a long time, but much better than A & E six weeks + one week to get a techinician to come.\n\nEnd Result is still to come..but we got tired of the run around and ordered the parts from Sears Direct..It should be here tomorrow.  There is a big difference between October 30th and December 15th when you're waiting for a part to fix your Dryer.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4917, "id": 485408, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 715, "len_tokens": 901, "text": "Run. That's all I can say. Run as fast as you can from LG. Mine was not an Amazon purchase but I feel obliged to help others make an informed decision, and all I can offer is my own personal experience with this product and manufacturer.\n\nPurchased this dryer 11/02/13, with matching washer WM3470HVA.\n\nThe \"steam fresh\" and \"steam sanitary\" cycles stopped working. I got an \"Ie2\" error message. But at least it dried clothes. LG customer service said that either I'd have to A) \"preheat\" the drum for 5 minutes (which pardon me if I'm wrong, but doesn't that defeat the purpose of having an HE machine?) or B) select the \"big\" setting for those two cycles and just can't use the other two garment settings. Then they told me that the current cold weather is causing this issue and I should wait until it's warm outside before calling to complain again. I insisted that I was getting the error message when it was over 70 degrees out. I live in Atlanta. I'm wondering, according to LG, do people in colder climates just have to live with error messages 6 months out of the year if that's the case?\n\nI insisted on a service call. They obliged. BTW, the service tech has been extremely sympathetic and professional. I get the feeling he's genuinely embarrassed by LG products and customer service. His first service call didn't fix it. So he ordered replacement parts and scheduled another visit a few days later. That still didn't fix it. He said my only recourse at this point was to call LG and see what they could work out with me.\n\nI called customer service and remained calm, but the person on the other end (\"Tish\") was smacking gum or food in my ear and proceeded to read a prepared statement about the cold weather causing these issues. I got frustrated and told her that's unacceptable, that a $1000 machine should work top to bottom no matter what, especially 3 months old. And it isn't like I live in Siberia. I live in Atlanta. She got condescending with me (something I've read is not unusual for LG customer service reps). I was still calm, until....she said I was getting upset for nothing. So 2-1/2 hours on the phone with customer service, missed two days of work for service calls, and to her it's \"nothing.\" Not only that, she said there was nothing they could do, and there was nothing they were going to do. She said it was my problem. I have cut out a lot of the terrible exchanges between me and LG. Suffice it to say every call but one was this bad or worse, and nobody wanted to help. By the way, this thing is under warranty until 11/02/14.\n\nToday it just stopped drying altogether. Oh it will turn on. It just won't heat up. Ever. Called customer \"service\" and have a new error message, \"H5.\" I now have a THIRD service call in a couple of days.\n\nI'm out $1000, have had this less than three months, and the headaches have only just begun. I pray the washer keeps working.\n\nBottom line: Don't do like I did. Do your homework. Read up on reliability of dryers by all manufacturers, and please take into account how customers are treated AFTER the sale closes and issues arise. If you don't believe me, you can look up something called customer service score board and LG. Read for yourself the nightmares. Look them up in the better business bureau of Huntsville Alabama. I can assure you I'm not alone.\n\nFor your sake, don't make yourself their next victim.\n\nUPDATE: 5/6/14\n\nIf you google LG TE2 error, you'll find a video of someone who fixed the issue with a $5 part from Lowes/Home Depot. LG never knew about this, or if they did they aren't owning up to the dryer not functioning properly. That small, inexpensive part (dryer vent valve) fixed the problems I've had with this blasted machine. However, despite it working fine now, LG customer service proved to be such a horrific, maddening, traumatizing experience that I'd sooner lock myself in this very dryer and go over Niagara Falls in it than ever speak to them again.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4918, "id": 485922, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 779, "len_tokens": 906, "text": "I was a bit nervous to buy our SMEG range, considering no one I'd talked to had heard of the brand. I'm SO glad we took a chance on SMEG. Our oven is the centerpiece of the kitchen, everyone comments on how awesome it looks.\n\nI was discouraged by other ranges that had 'pizza' and 'chicken nugget' buttons as oven settings. Really?? I just need burners that turn on, can simmer and can go med-high temps. I just want an oven to turn on, and heat to the temp I want. I broil things now and then, and can honestly say that I don't need a high and low broiler - I just move the rack to the right spot and go from there.  I use the convection fan when I'm baking. I bake my own gluten free bread, and the results are perfect - even in my gas range! There aren't any hot or cold spots in the oven - I was worried there would be since I've heard bad things about uneven heating in gas ovens. Bonus: I have been keeping my range very clean - because it looks go good, why not clean it after every time you use it? The lights in the oven are very bright, I love the easy-to-use knobs (though they were hard to figure out for the first month or so of use as the symbols aren't quite familiar). We had quite a bit of air in our brand new gas line after the install, so burners kept going out randomly and I was frustrated and wondering if it was the ranges fault or if it really was our new line. Well, it was just the line - everything works perfectly now and burners never go out.\n\nThe range has been in our kitchen for 5 months and I love it just as much as the day it was delivered. We purchased the range online with an extended warranty (10 years) and we're hoping since the range is very simple in design, that it lasts a long time and proves to be reliable for years and years to come.\n\nThings I love:\n- simplistic design\n- the middle burner\n- the knobs (modern and easy to use!)\n- broiler runs from side to side, not back to front like I've seen on other gas ranges (back to front broiling creates uneven heat - as the sides of the oven don't get heat)\n- the oven light\n- the retro style timer (60 minute timer, turn to the time you want and wait for it to tick down and buzz)\n- racks are easy to move around\n- the manuals are really helpful! I learned a lot about my range by reading the manuals. :)\n\nThings that could be improved upon:\n- The cast iron grates on the range don't hold small pots very well (like my teeny 2 cup pot - which is rarely used, but when I do use it, I have to play a little balancing game to get it to sit on the range without tipping over).\n- The fan is a bit annoying and it runs whenever the oven is on and it's kind of loud (a low hum). Once you turn the oven off, the fan stays on until the oven is cool....to minimize how long it's on, I leave the oven door open a crack to cool off. I wish there was a switch to turn the fan off. Of course, this is just a small complaint. I still love my range, even when the fan is on.\n- Fan failure light... we had the light come on once...I had forgotten to turn the broiler off (it was on for about an hour) and I also had convection on - whoops! The fan failure light turned off as soon as the oven cooled down a bit. It seems odd that there is a light for fan failure. Do fans go out often on gas ranges? If so, maybe the light is helpful.\n- the timer buzz isn't very loud or long. If you set the timer for a longer time, it will buzz a little longer in the end...but it's easy to miss hearing the timer if you are in another room.\n\nEven with these small issues, I still rate this range a full 5 star rating - because I'm simply in love with the design and it's been a great addition in our kitchen!\n\nIf you are considering this range and have further questions, leave a comment and I will try to come back and answer them as best I can.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4919, "id": 488488, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 804, "len_tokens": 931, "text": "WORST....DISHWASHER...EVER, this dishwasher is so bad I seriously want to boycott the purchase of all further GE products.  I don't even know where to start with what is wrong with this thing.  Clearly the designers on this product never did a load of dishes in their life.\nIt feels like it was made by Fisher Price (which honestly is probably it's only positive quality because I expect it to break within a year or two and I can get a new one!)\n\nDon't let the \"hybrid stainless steel\" description fool you - It's a stainless steel door with a completely plastic tub.  We told the salesperson at Home Depot that we absolutely wanted a stainless tub, she directed us to this model we opened the door and didn't bother to bend over and stick our heads inside to see it was not - our bad for relying on salespeople and deceptive model descriptions.\n\nSilverware trays are the worst - first thing I had to do was tie wrap them to the rack because anytime you tried to pull out the rack they come flying off.  The flip down tops are ridiculous - who wants to stick silverware in one by one in little slots.  The openings in the bottom & sides of the silverware rack are so huge that silverware constantly falls fully or partially through the openings.  The bottom tray has a middle section so wide everything falls sideways in it - yet it is so narrow it is a complete pain to dig the fallen items out, so I just avoid it all together & lose half the bottom tray.  I will never buy a front silverware tray model again - I reach in to pull out the top rack (usually without looking while I am rinsing dishes) and constantly poke myself on silverware - live and learn on that one.  Oh yeah and be careful what you put in the bottom silverware tray - it will prevent the soap dispenser from opening - that's always fun and energy efficient.  Although even when the soap compartment does open I still find residue - usually about a quarter of the soap still in the compartment after a wash cycle.\n\nI don't even know how to describe how bad the bottom rack is - other than it simply is not functional...period.  I don't know what kind of dishes the designer(s) used but clearly not regular plates & bowls - nothing fits correctly, bowls especially just fall to the sides, belly up - it's a constant balancing act to get them to stay in there correctly.  Coming off of my previously dishwasher I had for 10 years (a wonderful Frigidaire model - oh why did I change!) I never had an issue like this - how do you ruin the design of a dishwasher rack so horribly?  I finally had to push and bend the wire supports to make them at least somewhat usable.\n\nThe top rack is nearly as bad - the sides are much to wide for glass, everything falls over (again - where the heck are the designers from and what do their dishes look like?), there are huge opening along the sides so any small items fall right out - I'm talking big enough for small prep bowls, sauce dipping cups etc. to all fall through the sides.  And I don't know what it is but a good 75% of the time the top rack will not push in completely and the door won't close - I don't know what causes it because I usually walk away in disgust after about 3 minutes of messing around with it.  My husband spends another 3 minutes opening and closing the rack (I'm guessing to get something to align correctly in the back) before it will finally close.  Makes dishwashing time even more fun than usual!\n\nThe cleaning ability of the dishwasher is mediocre at best but the drying is worthless - everything is still wet after a full drying cycle - what's the point?\n\nThe really sad thing is that my parents actually went out and bought a dishwasher within days of ours and amazingly managed to get the same exact model (I'm thinking Home Depot was making a heavy push to offload these pieces of garbage) and he hates it just as much as I do (but it was his idea to tie wrap the trays on after he had done the same!).  So now we are both stuck with a near useless dishwasher.  At least we'll have some fun placing bets on who's breaks first (or who takes a sledgehammer to theirs first...!)\n\n*Update 8/19/16 - my dad's dishwasher broke first - I think I saw him skipping all the way to the store to buy a new one.....", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4920, "id": 502931, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 796, "len_tokens": 914, "text": "I tried to post review on Whirlpool site but it never was approved. That would explain majority of the positive reviews on their site. We purchased our washer/dryer set at Costco since they have a wonderful return policy. This set is going back because of the washer. The actual washer model is 5810BW which is made specifically for Costco. It is the same as 5800 BW sold here. This washer does not rinse the detergent out of our laundry. After the first use whole family was itching because of the detergent left in the laundry. We have been using the same detergent for many years and in fact we used up most of this bottle with our old washer. I also am aware of differences between HE and regular machines and specifically checked instructions on the amount of detergent to use. It is Kirkland Signature HE detergent so it is designed for this washer. After the first fiasco I started using less detergent - 1/2 to 1/8 of recommended amount. The itching stopped but if our laundry had any stains they would not come out.  With our old washer (also Whirlpool and also from Costco) I just had to pre-treat with a Shout spray and toss it in the washer. All stains would usually come out. With this washer I had to wash one t-shirt 3 times to get a stain out. How is this saving water? I also use additional rinse cycle for all of the loads because I have no desire to itch again. How is this helping with the water use?\nI took a video of the washing cycle since the washer has a glass lid. You can clearly see the white item sitting on top of the load throughout the whole washing cycle. Small items do circulate through detergent but larger items stay in one position and do not move. When I hand wash items I also do not submerge them in to the water and rub. I use a little detergent and rub the item against itself, but this is not what this washer does. The washer just moves its \"washplate\" back and forth and wet items just vibrate on it.\nI use dress shirts from Costco which are treated with water repellent. This washer cannot get this shirt wet on normal cycle. I have to use deep water cycle to even get the shirt wet. First time I did not believe my eyes - had to open the lid and make sure that part of the shirt was dry at the end of the wash cycle! The heavier items like bath towels do not get clean and stink after the first use. This rarely happened with our old washer. And don't get me started on the \"spray rinse\". I am not sure who came up with this concept and what it actually rinses. If you watch videos of Samsung or LG HE top loaders, these washers have a nozzle which sprays water ON your laundry that is stuck to the sides of the drum after a spin cycle. I can see how this can do something like rinse. This washer just pours water at the center of the drum from where it happily drains in to the holes in the bottom. How this can possibly rinse anything is way past my understanding. There is no way to overwrite any of the settings or add a little water.\nThe sensing process is unreliable. If I put few small items, the washer will add a lot of water, 5 inches or more, and the items would be swimming. It I put larger item, like a towel, it will absorb all the water and there would be almost no water in the tub. Ether this technology is bad or Whirlpool's implementation is bad.\nThe only good thing I can say about this washer is that it spins laundry very well. The laundry comes out much drier and therefore dryer does finishes much faster. This is well compensated by washer taking more that twice as long as our old \"inefficient\" washer did. I should have fixed our old washer instead of buying this new one, more so since I already diagnosed what the problem was. We thought to update our 14 year old set with the new one - what a mistake.\n\nAs I understand it is the government that is mandating these water and energy savings. How about starting from the government itself? On my way to work I see on-ramps being watered every morning, being that it is drought in California and all. How about saving water there? Also mandate more water efficient landscapes instead of planting grass everywhere. I wish the government would stay the heck out of my laundry room.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4921, "id": 508205, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 776, "len_tokens": 917, "text": "For nearly $800 in November 2014 I bought a new Kobe Range Hood model CH2230SQB-1, which was dropped shipped to me directly from the Kobe warehouse in Arcadia, CA. It was defective out of the box. During the temporary power up test suggested before installation, the fans seemed to work fine but the LED lights did not work. Looked to see if there was a loose connection but all wiring looked intact. Began moving the hood to put it back in the shipping box, and the lights temporarily flickered and even stayed lit for a few seconds, but the lights quickly stopped working and couldn't get them to come back on. Started a service call with Kobe's ADCO warranty division and they were distant. Had to be proactive and provoke them into moving the service order along and give me status updates. Kobe then refused to send a repair technician from the company that ADCO usually contracts with in my region, and the only other trained servicer in my area would not take the repair call because I did not buy the unit from them. Requested KOBE to reconsider sending the alternate servicer or send a replacement working unit and they refused to do either! They would not honor their stated warranty to repair or replace a defective unit!  Asked the vendor to step in, but he insinuated that I may have compromised the hood during testing the unit, and even said \"what's the big deal; it's just the lights; go ahead an install it.\" Wow! I turned to pressing Kobe to resolve the issue, and they only offered to refund my money if I returned the hood. But I don't want to return the hood, as this model would fit best in my remodeled kitchen. I was able to talk to a manager at Kobe, but he said he could not authorize anything more than a refund. He said there was no one in the entire Arcadia office that could authorize repair or replacement of the defective hood, including the head executive! He said all they could do is send an email to the Kobe headquarters in Japan to ask if there is anything they may be willing to authorize in relation to this warranty issue. So the American headquarters of a global manufacturing and supply company cannot make a decision on a simple customer service issue to repair or replace a malfunctioning unit as per the terms of their warranty. I don't see how a global company does not delegate a simple customer service issue decision to its American management staff. If Kobe's weren't the only 30 inches wide x 22 inches deep x 6 inches high hoods I could find with baffle filters, LED lights, and supposedly quiet fans, I would run from this non-customer centric company as fast as I could. Problem is, this is the model that fits my space. All I want is a functioning CH2230SQB-1. It's not too much to ask. I cannot understand how Kobe has been unwilling to resolve this simple issue. Kobe's behavior toward this matter is quite the opposite of how the company markets itself on its website: \"KOBE Range Hoods has experienced tremendous growth throughout its history due to OUR ATTENTION TO QUALITY AND CUSTOMER SERVICE. We INVITE YOU TO JOIN US and play an important part in the innovation that KOBE creates for the kitchens of the future!\" Do not believe it for one second. Kobe has poor quality control and the worst customer service I've ever experienced. BUYER BEWARE!\n\nUpdate 12/7/14:  Along with this Amazon post on Friday night I also posted to Facebook and Gardenweb. And before these posts I emailed the company telling them I was going to post to social media, and I cc:d a consumer columnist at the LA Times on that message. Lo and behold on Saturday morning I get an email from the vendor saying that Kobe had decided to not require the hood to be returned, canceled the shipping tag, issued me a full refund, voided the warranty on the hood, and said happy holidays. Great. Got my money back after a bunch of grief, and if I can repair the malfunction, which is hopefully likely, I get a free hood, but with the baggage of this experience. It's also weird because I didn't ask for a free hood; I just wanted it fixed. And it's sad that I had to get extreme before Kobe would do the right thing. I guess this should remind us all that if we feel we are getting mistreated as customers, then turning to social media may help.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4922, "id": 518331, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 779, "len_tokens": 966, "text": "On the surface, this refrigerator looks good.  Nice looking exterior, sleek finish, but on the inside, I'm beginning to have my doubts.  These days, it is hard to find an actual refrigerator to view before purchase.  Bought mine at Sears.  They only had higher end models on display, so had to go by what I could look at on-line and compare it to what I saw in the store.  And, despite the few reviews about this fridge, I have to say everything you read is accurate, and the other folks probably feel as burned as I do by an old school company that used to produce quality products.\n\nThe refrigerator looks good, but I began to have doubts as soon as I opened the door.  Yesterday, soon as my new refrigerator arrived, I immediately noticed how cheap the shelving looked.  The glass and the plastic parts were substantially thinner and more flimsy than the fridge it replaced.  I just hope these shelves, the glass and the plastic hold up.\n\nThankfully, I had the presence of mind to remove the shelving from my old refrigerator, and was able to compare it to the new Frigidaire (my old fridge was a basic side-by-side Whirlpool that only lasted 12 years.)  And, the old fridge wasn't a top of the line by any means.  It was about the same price as this new Frigidaire.  I just liked the smooth finish on this new Frigidaire better than the textured finish of the Whirlpool, but now I wonder if I may have made a mistake.\n\nThere was no meat drawer in this model, so I was able to use the assembly from my old refrigerator which luckily fit.  There was no utility container for small items, and NO GLASS in the shelf between the bottom two bins.  HOW CHEAP IS THAT?\n\nI thought the missing shelf glass between the bins was an oversight or mistake, so I called Frigidaire immediately to ask them to send me a replacement, and was told it was no oversight.  They don't put glass between the bins in this model.  (Even my cheap old Whirlpool had glass between the bins . . . go figure.)  They quoted me a price of $31.87 to send me a piece of glass to fit in the empty slot . . .  By the time I pay tax and postage, it would run close to $50 to get the glass.  NOT GOOD.\n\nI can only hope this refrigerator lasts.  At present, it is working fine, and it looks good, but it is cheaply made.  If the workmanship of the shelving, combined with the need to cut corners by stripping out components that are normally included in other similar models is any indicator, then I have to wonder.  And, to address issues that others have had, I'm not hearing any odd noises, and the ice maker and dispenser seem to be working fine -- for now.\n\nAlso be forewarned, NOT all Frigidaire appliances are Energy Star rated.  This particular refrigerator was made in Mexico, and is NOT ENERGY STAR rated., which I was surprised to learn.\n\nCome on Frigidaire, this is 2015.  All appliances should be Energy Star rated.  This program has been around for years.  No excuse for continuing to make products that are not up to standard.  And, if you saved money by having the product made in Mexico, then you could at least have had it manufactured so that it would have been energy efficient.  That alone make this a one-star product.\n\nSorry for the rating, but it looks like this may be a substandard product.  Glad I have a home warranty, because I have my doubts that this refrigerator will last.\n\nOn the positive side, Fridigaire's customer service was polite and responsive, but they could / would do nothing about the glass since the specs indicated that this model comes without glass.\n\nSo, you've been warned.\n\nNice looking fridge, but cheaply made and NOT ENERGY STAR rated and NOT MADE in the USA.\n\nP.S.\n\nTo another reviewer point, the door seals tightly (which is a good thing because it does take some force to get it open when its been closed all night).  The tight seal causes the refrigerator to actually roll toward you when you try to open it.  So I will need to find something to block the wheels.  Never had this problem with any refrigerator or freezer that I've owned, and I've had many over the years.  Glad I don't have small children in the house . . .  If this lasts long enough, I will turn it into a back-up garage fridge and purchase another brand.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4923, "id": 523947, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 726, "len_tokens": 909, "text": "This motor is definitely louder than the original, but our fridge is 20-30 years old, and the original GE motors back then were extremely well built and designed to be nearly silent.  With this motor, there is a low dull rumble sound, but really not that noticeable unless all else is quiet in the house.  (I bench tested the motor before installation, and it was silent, but there was a slight shimmying, and once installed, the fridge seems to amplify that shimmy/vibration into the rumble sound.)  However, it is still an ACCEPTABLE noise level as far as we are concerned.\n  At $92 (from Amazon.com LLC directly, not through a third party vendor), this was NOT the cheapest option, but I wanted a GE motor that would fit perfectly right out of the box with no modifications, and I didn't want a cheap, universal Chinese knock-off that required cutting off the original connectors, splicing wires, or adding crimp-on connectors, etc.  And this motor fit right out of the box-- the spade connectors were exactly where they were supposed to be, the two rectangular side-notches on the shaft matched the tabs on original the fan, it circulates the air across the condenser coils and drip pan as it's supposed to, and the fridge is running great again.\n  I should note, however, that this motor is made in China, and although the box has a GE logo stamped on it, the box also says \"Genuine Renewal Part.\"  (Uhh, \"renewal\" part??  Maybe you mean \"replacement\" part?)  In addition, the \"instruction sheet\" was of photo-copy quality, and was nearly incomprehensible at first, warning not to use one set of screws (that were not included) except for certain models.  So, either GE is farming out their parts manufacturing to to China (but the translation department isn't quite on the ball), or it 's a knock-off after all. For now, I am trusting that it is an actual GE replacement part, but manufactured in China.\n  One issue I had with this motor was that where the spade connectors are located, there is a gap under them that is open to the internal part of the motor, and that will allow dust into the inside of the motor. That's probably not good.  (The original motor was completely sealed in this area, with NO gap that would allow dust to get inside, with the spade connectors isolated on outside.)  Once the wire connectors are attached, the gap is covered somewhat (but not completely), so I added a small piece of duct tape over the area to help keep the dust out.\n  The motor also comes with three self-tapping screws to go into the mounting holes  on the motor (which are NOT pre-tapped in the new motor), but these provided screws have much smaller heads  than the originals and are pretty chinzy.  Because the actual threaded screw diameter was exactly the same as the original self-tapping screws from the original motor, I opted to used the original self-tapping screws from the old motor because they have hex heads and a MUCH wider flange.  Whether you use the original screws or the new ones provided, be sure to pre-tap the holes in the new motor with the screws you plan to use BEFORE you begin the installation of the new motor (even BEFORE you install the fan on the new motor so you don't damage the fan).  Screw the self-tapping screws all the way into the holes, then remove the screws, install the fan on the motor (unless your model requires installing the fan AFTER installing the motor), and THEN install the motor in the fridge. That way, when you are on your hands and knees peering under the fridge with a flashlight, it is MUCH easier to get the screws into the newly pre-tapped holes.  You can even just use your fingers to get them started, which is NOT the case if you haven't pre-tapped them!  (TIP: Install the TOP screw FIRST but not completely tight, and the motor will hang naturally aligned for easier installation of the lower two screws.)\n  Conclusion: The motor has been running fine for a week now, and I will update this post if there are any future problems.  So for now, we are pleased with the purchase, the fridge is running great, and despite the few criticisms, 4 stars.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4924, "id": 527720, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 796, "len_tokens": 907, "text": "I purchased this dryer back in June 2017 and it's July 2018 now and it still works and hasn't given me any trouble at all. It had survived move from SF bay area to LA with minimal dent and still working. Can't say the same about other things got damaged by movers sigh.\n\nCondo we rented in SF had no washer and dryer and I had to drug dirty laundry to local laundromat. After a while I got fed up with those trips since we lived in a bay area cost of doing laundry was way more expensive than anywhere else and parking was a nightmare. Also, I had to leave 2 little kids at home with my husband and get constant calls and messages from him asking when I am coming home since he couldn't handle them. Ugh\nSo after one of those trips I got online and got this mighty little helper. I also bought a washing machine but through another store. I would've gotten it from Amazon if it wasn't on back order and I couldn't wait a month.\n\nWith 2 little kids and husbands gym clothes I do 4 loads of laundry per week. In a bay area one load of wash and dry was roughly costing $4 to $6 /depending if I had to use larger washer for big blankets and jackets and extra drying cycle/ and with 4 loads I spent at least $16 a week. By now my dryer had paid off itself and honestly working overtime. If it stops working I will just get another one since it pays itself in less than a year and it saves my sanity by not having to get out of the door to do laundry.\n\nWhen we had to move to LA my husband wanted to get rid of our washer and dryer but I insisted on taking them just in case and I am glad I did. Now that we live in LA there is a laundry room in our building complex but with only 2 washers and 2 dryers, trying to have laundry done was getting impossible since some people would leave their stuff in there for hours. Going up and down the stairs to check when that \"special\" person/people get their things out was driving me nuts.\n\nI see that many people complain about this dryer and I believe it's because of their own fault. Yes it can have manufacturing defect and can be damaged while shipped and delivery guys can drop it and those can be the cause of mulfunction but I also know that people can be ignorants. I am certain most of those negative reviewers failed to clean lint after each load and accumulated lint would make machine heat up and quit working. I have my dryer on the floor and It was inconvenient to bend over to remove and clean lint compartment at first but I got used to it and since I take care of this machine it hasn't given me any issues yet. If you don't check and clean your filters lint will start accumulating around and behind the filter and simply go into the motor. Remember this is not a regular dryer and not built the same way. Filter gets dirty pretty fast and has to be washed often and I recommend getting generic ones here on Amazon for backup. They cost around $5.50 for 4 round exhaust/lint and 1 small intake filter.\n\nThe door hinge is made of plastic so you have to be careful not to pull it down and certainly not let kids touch it. There is no start button, it starts once you turn the knob to desired time.\n\nAvoid overstuffing it that may also be the cause of motor overheating. I have a Magic Chef 1.6 cu ft Topload Compact Washer which I also don't overload and after 1 wash I separate load in half and do 2 cycles in drying machine even though it has 2.6 cu. ft. capacity I make sure clothes can freely move inside and dry evenly.\n\nFirst time use: I recommend wiping it down inside to remove any manufacturing chemical residue. Check if exhaust/lint and intake filters present and placed correctly. Run a cycle with fragrant drying sheets and one wet towel, this way it will remove unpleasant smell /if any/ and you can check if it heats up properly.\n\nTake care of it and it will serve you for a long time just like a car. And honestly do you really want to do laundry in the same machine that your neighbor washed and dryed his piss mat/rug/sheets or muddy shoes and who knows whatever cudies they had. I certainly won't want that especially if it comes to my children.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4925, "id": 531019, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 772, "len_tokens": 947, "text": "If you read only one review, read this one.  Anyone rating these appliances above a 1 star is either being paid for the review by the LG\nor simply has not used the appliances on a daily basis.  We are \"empty nesters\", just the two of us, and this washer/dryer pair are hopelessly\nunable to keep up with our very light demand.\n\nWe are at the point in our lives where it is much more important to have things that look nice and work well than to save money, so price\nwas not a consideration.  We researched this LG set in consumer reports, where they still receive a high rating even in the face of thousands\nof negative reviews on quality, customer support and functionality, which is absolute rubbish.  We spoke to the sales person at Home Depot who claimed to own the set, and she was very pleased.  She got the sale, so I have to assume she's on commission.  Ok, here's the review:\n\nAs far as looks and user interface, these are a work of art.  If they were being used to decorate my home I'd be a huge fan.  They play very\nlovely music which at the beginning puts you in a very good mood.  Ding, de-ding, ding!  We're ready to wash your clothes! Bing, de-bing, bing, clothes are all clean, time to put them in the dryer!\n\nI would actually be very happy with the set aside from one tiny flaw.  The washer does not actually wash your clothes, and the dryer does not\ndry them.\n\nKidding aside, I am totally serious.  Watch the washer work.  For a medium sized load, it will put about 1 quart of water, very accurately toss\nthem around a bit and then claim success.  The clothes often do not even get fully wet, which could be considered a positive when you consider the dryer review, below.  As far as water conservation, it's great.  You will, however, need to either wash your clothes by hand\nor simply replace them with new clothes if you want clean clothes.  Fortunately hundreds of people have also discovered this issue, and there is an easy fix.\n\nSearch YouTube for LG Front Loader Water Level.  The fix is fairly simple and includes simply adjusting the pressure switch to allow more water into the drum.  LG claims (and Consumer Reports seems to agree) that the machine is energy efficient and water conserving, but you will need to run the machine at least three times to get the clothes wet and eventually clean.  After performing the repair, I am actually now happy with this machine, but seriously how could Consumer Reports have missed this and why don't they publish a follow on admitting they totally missed the boat and customers hate this machine?\n\nOn to the \"dryer\".  I'm not one to use spurious quotes lightly, but this machine is a dryer in name only.  From day one it has never dried a load of clothes.  Yes, it plays music, heats, spins, makes noise, looks good, but at the end of the day (or at least the end of the cycle) you will have a wad of wrinkly damp clothes on the bottom of the drum.  Don't waste your time looking to LG for a solution, they claim it's not a problem.  The fix of leaning the machine forward so the clothes come in contact with the damp sensor or checking for vent obstructions are simply to get you to go away, they have nothing to do with the problem which is that the damp sensor simply does not work properly.  You can try running timed dry, but you will need to run the machine on timed dry at least twice if not three times before you have dry clothes.  How is this energy efficient?  Quite often, our clothes will end up musty, and we'll need to run the washer again and the dryer twice.  That's two washes and three dries for one load!  Very efficient!\n\nBefore I close, Let me say I have found an acceptable solution to get clean clothes.  Simply haul the load down to the basement where we retired our 35 year old Maytag set and wash them there.  If you chose to ignore this review and want this set anyway, give me a call and you can have mine.\n\nSeriously, a couple of thousand dollars and a ton of aggravation later, we've given up and will be replacing them.  Shame on LG, my opinion of this company is so damaged I will never buy another LG product and will discourage anyone I can from doing so.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4926, "id": 539633, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 649, "len_tokens": 928, "text": "Be careful, NewAir will not stand by their products. Our NewAir broke within the first 4 hours of use.  The manufacturer will NOT cover the item under warranty. Just in case you're actually thinking of buying a NewAir product... think twice...\n\nFrom: NewAir Sales <sales@newair.com>\nDate: Fri, Nov 14, 2014 at 11:03 AM\nSubject: Re: Icemaker return\nTo: Susan Ferguson <xxxxx@gwmail.gwu.edu>\n\nHi Susan,\n\nThe manufacturer warranty is void if the unit is purchased by a private seller who does not have our consent to sell our products. This is the same reason why we ask for a copy of your receipt upon requesting warranty claims because if it not from a valid authorized dealer we will not proceed with warranty work. We also list our authorized dealers on our web site for customer use. We stand behind our products, however when an item is purchased from a private seller the purchaser runs the risk of the item being used, open box, refurbished, and or a scratch and dent. Our one year limited manufacturer's warranty is only valid on new items sold by our authorized online dealers. It is unfortunate to see that you are in this situation, however you will need to contact the seller of the item for a replacement or refund.\n\nHave a great day!\n\nMireya\nCustomer Support\nNewAir | 3419 East Chapman Ave. #190 | Orange, CA 92869\nPh: 855-963-9247 Em: sales@newair.com\nFB: facebook.com/NewAirUSA Twitter: @NewAirUSA\nPinterest: pinterest.com/NewAirUSA Instagram: NewAirUSA\nWeb: [...]\n\"Made by awesome\"\n\nOn Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 7:59 PM, Susan Ferguson <xxxxx@gwmail.gwu.edu> wrote:\nHello Mireya-\n\nI'm sorry but I thought the manufacturer warranty was for the manufacturer, NewAir.  Please explain why the warranty is not valid in this case.  I don't see anywhere in the warranty exclusions that the warranty is not valid if not purchased from an authorized dealer.  In addition, a consumer would never know who \"authorized dealers\" are because if a company is selling your product doesn't that implicitly make them authorized to do so?\n\nI sincerely hope that NewAir will reconsider this position and stand by the integrity of their products.  This ice machine was literally used for four hours before failing and it is, quite frankly egregious that your company is negating a warranty that explicitly states it will repair or replace defective materials or workmanship for up to one year.\n\nPlease let me know how I can talk to a dispute department regarding this matter.  I look forward to your response and I will refrain from giving any reviews of your product until this matter is resolved.\n\nThank you,\nSusan Ferguson\n\nOn Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 3:10 PM, NewAir Sales <sales@newair.com> wrote:\nHi Susan,\n\nUnfortunately, the ice maker was not purchased from an authorized dealer. You will need to contact the seller \"Mehadrin\" through Amazon for any existing issues on your unit.\n\nHave a great day!\n\nMireya\nCustomer Support\nNewAir | 3419 East Chapman Ave. #190 | Orange, CA 92869\nPh: 855-963-9247 Em: sales@newair.com\nFB: facebook.com/NewAirUSA Twitter: @NewAirUSA\nPinterest: pinterest.com/NewAirUSA Instagram: NewAirUSA\nWeb: [...]\n\"Made by awesome\"\n\nOn Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:32 PM, Susan Ferguson <xxxxxxxxx@gwmail.gwu.edu> wrote:\nHello-  I received an AI-100S icemaker in March 2014.  I used it one time and within 4 hours the cooling unit had shut down.  My best estimate is that the pump was still working (the water was getting pumped through) but the cooling mechanism was not.  When I plugged the unit back in to try it a few hours later, the cooling mechanism never turned on.\n\nSince this product is still under warranty, I am hoping to acquire a new unit since this particular one has essentially never been used and is obviously faulty in some capacity.\n\nI have attached the receipt for your reference.  It was purchased as a gift through Amazon Marketplace.  Thanks so much and I look forward to your response.\n\nSusan Ferguson", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4927, "id": 542885, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 764, "len_tokens": 900, "text": "OK, so we purchased both the refrigerator and matching freezer last year. Summary: These appliances pretty much suck. We have had each repaired once and now the refrigerator needs another repair. The first repair was on the refrigerator: it stopped cooling after only three months. The repairman replaced the controller and some other part(s) to make the refrigerator operational again. The repair was covered under warranty, but the entire process from filing a claim to having the refrigerator fixed took almost a month! Six months later, the freezer had to be repaired. It started leaving a sheet of ice at the bottom, then it started to leak (thank goodness for ceramic floors!). Summit repaired the freezer at no charge under warranty. The time to repair completion was two weeks and required some follow-up after the first repair company Summit arranged for simply didn't respond. Now? The refrigerator has started to run constantly - it literally never stops. I cringe thinking about how much energy that thing is now wasting. And guess what? The refrigerator is just out of warranty. Summit has graciously (sneer) offered to provide me with the parts at no charge, however, I have to arrange the service, pay for labor and service call, and coordinate the ordering of the parts. When I questioned my being responsible for labor even if the problem was the controller that was replaced late last year, I was told that they provide (ONLY) a 90 DAY WARRANTY on parts. So, they know they are producing junk. Extended warranty to the rescue!\n\nWait -- the problems with these appliances isn't limited to their refrigeration capabilities. The hinge design is unbelievably cheap and basic for the cost of these appliances. The doors basically just swing on a metal pin. The materials are not created to exacting standards, so the refrigerator and freezer doors don't fit quite the same. Opening and closing the refrigerator causes screws on the bottom of the door to rub against the metal arm on which the door rests on a pin -- the door squeaks/groans when opened. We also have had to replace the screw that held the top pin, because the short screw provided barely caught the threads, the screw became stripped, and the door almost fell off.\n\nIf you are looking for a streamlined installation, you may want to opt for another appliance. The black hinges on these protrude above the top of the body, so a sizable gap is created above if you place these under a counter. Additionally, although these say they accept custom panels, because of the design of the door, the panels cant really be 24 wide (and centered as you might expect). If you put a 24 wide panel on, it will be aligned with the right side of the appliance (this is a must because of the hinge design) but will protrude about 0.75 past the other side of the door (creating a weird lip). This configuration will then not properly fit in the 24 wide space the fridge and freezer claim to fit. Fail, fail, and fail again.\n\nThey are not super loud, but they are not quiet either. The refrigerator noise is more annoying even though it is lower, because it is so frequent. The freezer is louder but cycles relatively infrequently. Opening the freezer can be difficult, because it creates a sort-of vacuum seal when closed. One of the freezer shelves was partially rusted on receipt.\n\nI will say that the black interior is impressive and cool looking. The lighting and glass shelves in the refrigerator are good. The shelves in both the refrigerator and freezer have stops and supports that allow you to pull them forward without accidentally pulling them out - a definite plus. Note that the freezer has horizontal bottle holders at the bottom like the refrigerator.\n\nWe purchased extended warranties, because we were unfamiliar with the Summit brand. Also, it seems (from reading reviews) that mini fridges and freezers (especially the higher priced ones?) may be more prone to breaking down. The warranties limit our out-of-pocket expense but, honestly, who wants the hassle of frequently scheduling repairs, following-up, etc.? I wish wed used the money spent on the warranties to purchase better appliances from a different company. We happened to see some ULine mini fridges in a store some months after we purchased the Summit appliances. We were very impressed: quality hinges, smooth door opening, well-thought out door operation and design, etc. Ah well, you live and you learn. Lesson: Don't buy a Summit appliance.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4928, "id": 545211, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 770, "len_tokens": 930, "text": "It is with big frustration that I am reporting an unacceptable experience with American Range and their 30\" Performer in liquid propane. Do not buy one unless you expect to get a perfect unit, because if you don't, be prepared to spend lots of time dealing with underperformance, defective parts, slow customer service, and ultimately denial that American Range is at fault if a repair tech cannot fix your range.\n\nListen to this long list of malfunctions when we fired up the cooktop and oven for the first time - to very shoddy performance:\n\n1. The simmer burner lights the igniter area with a small flame but will not migrate to whole burner unless you jimmy the knob down to simmer and back to high several times back and forth until it finally lights the whole burner.\n2. The medium burner does not light on the primary igniter and instead lights at the secondary igniter placement.\n3. The back left high btu burner had a popping flame in the gap between the burner and the burner base.\n4. The front right high btu burner has lazy yellow flames.\n5. All burners backfire nearly every time they are turned off.\n6. Sometimes gas comes out and the igniter clicks but the burner will not light, creating a safety hazard.\n7. The oven is 15-50 degrees under the thermostat setting, unless you turn on the convection fan, which they don't tell you in their marketing materials.\n8. One of the large drip pans was riddles with paint specks and flecks - don't know how they missed that one when they were packaging it for shipping.\n9. The middle drip pan was painted brown when it is supposed to be black like the other pans and all of the knobs. Again, how did they miss that one.\n\nTwo visits by repair techs did not work. They confirmed the gas pressure out of the wall is within the range specified by the manufacturer. They replaced the regulator and the burner assembly/bad igniter. Neither worked. They found an improperly machined part between the control knob and the burner with the faulty igniter, which explains why the replacement assembly did not fix the igniter issue. This is not a field repair (i.e., range replacement needed). The repair techs left after having exhausted all options to successfully repair the stove and gave their synopsis to American.\n\nThat was a full week ago, and it's when American went silent. Several emails and tweets to them have not been answered. Emails to the distributor and sales company resulted in a call from the distributor. They said American Range maintains that the problem is with my gas supply pressure and not with their range. What!\n\nDo not believe for one second the philosophy written on their website: \"Inspired by our passion for PERFECTION, renowned for our product innovation and QUALITY\"...and...\"We earnestly feel we have PERFECTED the professional home range.\" Since quality and perfection clearly did not get applied to my unit, I expect American to replace a defective range with a new properly-performing range.\n\nSheesh. Noone wants to have an experience like this. I'm posting this review so others can at least be aware of what they would be getting into if they're not delivered a perfect American Range. I did not think a months-long remodel would get soured in the end by a defective range that is Made in America!\n\nUpdate 2/17/14: We're Still Getting Duped!\nAfter committing to replacing our defective range with a new range, and nearly 2 weeks of supposedly building it and tweaking the burners, American Range wrote me today saying: \"We have finished our investigation/problem solving. We have a much better solution than replacing the entire range. The fix is new burner caps and removal of a diverter plate in the burner bases...By just changing the caps, it eliminates the risk of property damage to cabinets, flooring, doorways, etc. from moving an entire range in and out of house.\"\n\nGee. Thanks for suggesting to improve the burners by unnecessarily replacing perfectly fine burner tops and by removing parts the range was designed to work with with, and for continuing to not address the defective controls/igniter on one of the burners and the oven that is unacceptably off temperature unless you use the optional convection fan, all in the name of eliminating risk to property damage.\n\nC'mon American Range. Start acting like a professional company by stopping this bait and switch and timely honoring your part of our contract - to provide us with a fully operational range that we purchased 2.5 months ago!", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4929, "id": 552201, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 816, "len_tokens": 990, "text": "I am willing to admit that i made a huge mistake choosing this range when we remodeled our Kitchen. I remodel kitchens for a living and when I did my own kitchen I choose the Gallery line, This was 2 1/2 years ago and my review is based on using the Gallery gas range, refrigerator, microwave and dishwasher. Microwave and dishwasher have both had to be replaced last year and the refrigerator ice machine doesn't work anymore. Had the range, refrigerator and dishwasher all serviced/repaired under warranty each twice. This review is for this gas range so lets begin the long list of failures and headaches. Wife spilled 1 cup of oil out of a pan she knocked over onto the stove top...no big deal..right...WRONG! The top isnot sealed and any liguid more than a few drops will leak onto the insulation surrounding the oven. Staerted up the oven the next day not knowing this...our applience started smoldering with the most noxious smoke you could imagine. Even after the oven was off it kept smoldering for hours. We just about called the fire dept, but instead I disassembled the top of the range and found the insulation was burning/smoldering. I extinguished the embers and called Frigidaire for warranty on an obviously flawed assembly that forgot to seal the gaps around the burners to keep spills and mess from getting into the insulation and destroying or killing homeowners with toxic fumes. The range was only 4 months old at that time. Nope, the repairman said Frigidaire doesn't cover \"spills\". After confirming this myself with Frigidaire, i was furious. The repairman quoted $500 to replace the insulation. It was a range that cost $700 new! I ended up buying the insulation on parts direct (got the prior models insulation because it was $38 instead of $150 for the current model. Only difference was there was a small cut out missing in the older model. I replaced it in about two hours for $38 instead of the $500. There are so many more annoying and defective issues with this range, The rubber feet under the grates fall out and you will lose them. Some of the ones that didn't fall out have melted. Replacement kits for $50 bucks that include 8 little rubber feet and \"adhesive\"...I guess they failed to imagine gluing in the feet would be a good idea when the made the pathetic range. 8 feet won't do an entire stove top grate..you need to buy extras at $7 apiece plus shipping. How can a ziploc sandwich bag of a hundred rubber feet be the same cost as an entire range??? The convection fan works on \"Quick Bake\" about 60% of the time. You don't hear it and you wouldn't even know it isn't turning unless you look back into the oven right after opening the door once oven is to temp. The vents of the front  of the oven door allow dust and even drips to get between the glass and you would have to disassemble the door to clean the annoying dust/couple of drips that managed to fall into the vent holes over the last couple of years. So if you want a range that basically needs to be thrown away if you spill some oil or liquid on the stove top, want rubber feet to fall off and melt to cause a wobbly surface or have your convection fan not come on everytime and want to see dust and drips between the glass on the oven door each time you check how your cookies are doing,...,Frigidaire has your perfect range if you are into that sort of thing. COMPLETE GARBAGE! I write this after having to replace yesterday the heating element on the diswasher for the second time on the \"replaced\" under warranty dishwasher. I will never under any circumstances buy a Frigidaire brand by the French company \"Electrolux\". They sell inferior and poorly designed appliances. I say this because I have a kitchen of Gallery appliances that i will feel guilty passing on to the next homeowner..I plan on putting a warning in our sales disclosures because I don't want to see someone die because they don't know that they will have to buy a new range or pay $500 to have new insulation put around the oven if they spill anything with grease or oil in it. I STRONGLY tell all my kitchen rempdel clients that they should not even consider the Frigidaire line of appliances when they outfit their new kitchens. I also refuse to install the Frigidaire products..if my customers want the Frigidaire against my recommendation, they have to get someone else to install them and I require the customer to sign a disclosure and release of my responsibility for any damage caused by these appliances including any problems that arise from them having to replace the junk.", "label": 0}
{"sid": 4930, "id": 554410, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 805, "len_tokens": 991, "text": "(Our model number is GDF610PMJ0ES, so may have a few differences. Check it out, first. They appeared to be identical, in the store.)\n\nINTRO\nWe replaced our dishwasher, range, and microwave together, and went with GE (slate finish  LOVE it.). We have reviews for all three. The slate finish is classy and makes our kitchen look like it came out of a magazine. The purchases were made as a package at Lowes in Lafayette, IN, and came in only $100 over what wed planned to spend. Nice. We cant say enough good things about Lowes service. From the staff in the store (who kept us informed at every step) to installation: excellent.\n\nThe only problem we have with all three appliances is  oddly enough  the end-of-cycle alarms (and stove timer) are very quiet. It would be nice if we could set a timer loud enough to be heard in the next room, when necessary. However, we now have kitchen appliances that don't scream at us, so I guess thats a decent tradeoff. (Note: you can set the microwave buzzer from mute to a third level of loud, but the highest still cant be heard very far away.)\n\nOur reviews are for:\nDishwasher: Model  GDF610PMJ0ES (plastic interior; controls on outside of door)\nRange (Gas): Model  JGB700EEJ1ES\nMicrowave: Model  JVM6175EF1ES\n\nPROS\nCleaning is excellent, the unit is quiet, and the controls are where you can see them (and keep an eye on how much time is left on the cycle). However, there is a model with hidden controls if you like opening the door to check them. We figure wed rather have at-a-glance access, and why wear out a latch?\n\nLittle things mean a lot, and this dishwasher has a lot of good, convenient little things. The bottom of the door (inside) is configured like a ramp, not a wall. This allows all the water to drain off after the cycle or if you happen to dump something in there. Nice feature.\nAlthough you can adjust the top shelf, weve found no need. Its positioned so well you can get surprisingly large items on top, should you need to.\nThis unit seems a bit smaller inside than our old one, but the layout is so efficient, we get more in it at one time. GE has eliminated the #1 problem we had with our old dishwasher: the large hump on the underneath side of the TOP basket, which prevented us from placing large items in the middle of the LOWER basket. (I think it was part of the water system.) In this unit, we can line dinner plates up all the way across without an issue. Perfect.\n\nYou can place the cutlery container* on the door or on the lower basket. Theres also a convenient accessory basket for small items*. You can sit it pretty much anywhere, but its designed to hook onto the inside of the top shelf. It takes up a lot less space than the basket we purchased, for our old dishwasher, from a baby department at a store.\n\nA nice touch for the cutlery basket: unlike the one in our old dishwasher, this one has a totally flat base. It sits up straight, outside the unit, without your having to prop it up against something. We remove it after the cycle to air dry, so this is a big plus for us.\nLoading this unit takes a little getting used to, but GE has certainly thought of everything. You may be surprised, as we were, how easy it is to get plates to NOT knock against each other. The way theyve designed the spines throughout = the most efficient dishwasher weve ever owned when it comes to space and what you can get in there.\n\n*These baskets both have covers with slots in them so you can put the stem of flatware or even a toothbrush in them. The covers can also keep small items in the baskets, but they do not have to be closed during the cycle.\n\nCONS\nOdd pulsing of the motor as it drains water. Its something well get used to, but right now its a bit annoying if were watching TV (can you tell our home is the dreaded open concept?) No biggie.\nOne of our wine glass stem holder units won't stay in the up position when were trying to load the top shelf.  We usually keep it down and place smaller items underneath and things like grill tools on top of it. So, down isn't a big issue. Just inconvenient when you're trying to place things beneath it.\n\nWe air dry and take the cutlery basket out immediately after the load finishes. For some reason, the basket doesnt dry very quickly, and it takes a long time for the silverware to be ready.", "label": 1}
{"sid": 4931, "id": 560874, "interval": [900, 1000], "len_words": 771, "len_tokens": 929, "text": "It's quiet, it is big and it handles as much as you want to put in, and it is expensive. If you wash large items, big loads, this machine does it.\nDid a lot of research and read what few reviews were out there - some myth, some true, and decided to purchase this. LG's reputation continues to strengthen, and thats a good thing - 1 star for that; purchased Washer & Dryer for $1900 delivered with all hookup accessories - 1 star; given a two year warranty - 1 star; and it cleans as advertises - 1 star; hope it lasts.\nLike any new toy, I ran a small load and watched it, and immediately understood why some people complained about clothes not coming clean - read the manual folks. There are two myths that need to be dispelled: First, you do not need a lot of water - this uses very little water, barely enough, but it works excellent; Second, you do not need an agitator that beats the crap out of clothes to clean them - watching how this cleans and it became evident that the way it works is very efficient even with large loads. What is important is how you put in a load, read the manual. For large items, make sure you don't spread it out. Because this is such a large drum, one must pay some attention to how the large items go in - clothing is not as particular, as small items move a lot. However, if a single item sits in the very middle of the drum and does not reach across the drum, it will not come clean because it gets the least amount of agitation - once again, read the manual.\nConcerning Noise - it is quiet, very quiet, with the exception of the rinse cycle. A cascading waterfall is used with the water spreading over a larger area as the tub rotates so that the clothing is rinsed evenly (and thats the noise). It does this a couple of times and does a thorough job of rinsing. The spin cycles are quiet, and do an excellent job of removing the water - you can even select really high spin. Note: high spins put in wrinkles that need to be steamed or ironed out.\nLoad size - in one load washed queen sized comforter, a blanket, two throw feather comforters, and a set of sheets. Flawless, and everything clean. Big star...and there was still room for more. A second load had 3 sets of sheets lots of pillow cases, and a queen comforter thown in - not a problem. But do not recommend these kinds of mixed loads - they won't dry...even in the largest dryer LG has (i got that too). Blankets, sheets, will wrap up in a ball, especially in the large dryers, consequentially, the stuff that got swallowed up just doesnt dry well. I ended up having to finish with an air dry for some items or seperating out and cycling again. Absolutely no problems with large loads of clothing, and I might add that my jeans did not come out in knots. If you are going to dry large loads of sheets/blankets, take a peek every ten minutes and see if they need pulling apart (love the glass window).\nIf you install under cabinets, make sure there is clearance when the lid is open, if installed on a pedestal, get a step stool or you will never get to the bottom of the tub.\nFinal words on washer: Worth the purchase for large families, or if washing large comforters, sleeping bags, this is it. Still a little pricey so shop around.\n\nDryer: It dries, and does it well. Dried as large of a load of clothing that the washer could produce. Other than the issues of loading multiple blankets/sheets that ball up, I have no real complaints with the drying or steam functions. The lint trap design could be better. It uses a clam shell catch that has to be opened for cleaning - somewhat of a nuissance, but it does the job. To maximize efficient drying, a straight exaust tube will really make a difference. Worth the Purchase.\n\nBTW, when done washing/drying, be prepared for a plesantly surprising musical concerto.\n\nWill add to this review as I learn More.\n\nUpdate:  experienced loud rattles in the washing machine but ony during the wash cycle.  Could not duplicate with the next load, but happened again on the third load.  Apparently, metal snap-buttons on shirts can make a lot of noise in the big drums.", "label": 1}